The Best of Alaska Cruising

Alaska is one of the top cruise destinations in the world, and when you’re sailingthrough the calm waters of the Inside Passage or across the Gulf of Alaska, it’s easy tosee why: The scenery is simply breathtaking.

Much of the coastline is wilderness, with snowcapped mountain peaks, immenseglaciers that create a thunderous noise as chunks break off into the sea (a processknown as calving), emerald rainforests, fjords, icebergs, soaring eagles, lumberingbears, and majestic whales, all easily visible from the comfort of your ship.

Visit the towns and you’ll find people who retain the spirit of frontier independ-ence that brought them here in the first place. Add Alaska’s colorful history and her-itage, with its European influences, its spirit of discovery, and its rich Native cultures,and you have a destination that is utterly, endlessly fascinating. Even thinking aboutit, we get chills of the good kind.

The fact that the number of cruise passengers who come here each year has beensteadily increasing—2008 momentously may be the year the number of cruise passen-gers tops one million for the first time—has had its impact, of course. In the summer,some towns turn into tourist malls populated by seasonal vendors, including jewelrystores geared towards the cruise crowd (15 such stores in Skagway alone at our lastcount) and shelves filled with imported souvenirs. However, the port towns you’llvisit—from Juneau, the most remote state capital in the country, to Sitka, with itsproud reminders of Native and Russian cultures—retain much of their rustic charmand historical allure. Sure, you may have to jostle for a seat in Juneau’s popular RedDog Saloon (a must-do beer stop) or ask other visitors to step out of the way as youtry to snap a picture of Skagway’s historic gold-rush buildings or Ketchikan’s pictur-esque Creek Street, but these are minor hassles for cruise-ship passengers. If you wantto get away from the crowds by taking an organized shore excursion or touring onyour own, or booking a small-ship cruise that goes to more remote parts, there’sopportunity for that, too. In addition, by signing up for the cruise lines’ pre- or post-cruise land-tour packages (known as “cruisetours”), you can also visit less-populatedinland destinations such as Denali National Park, Fairbanks, the Kenai Peninsula, theYukon Territory, or the Canadian Rockies.

Even before you cruise, we can predict you’ll want to visit again. Jerry first visitedin 1973 and claims he’s never been the same—the place put such a spell on him thatover the years, he’s been back upward of 50 times. Fran’s first visit to the state wasn’tquite that long ago, but she also noticed that her view of the world was foreverchanged, and she quickly put the state at the top of her list of cruise destinations.Alaska is like that. It grabs you by the scruff of the neck and won’t let you go.

Whether you’re looking for pampering and resort amenities or a “you and the sea”adventure experience, you’ll find it offered by cruise ships in Alaska. Here are some ofour favorites, along with our picks of the best ports, shore excursions, and sights.

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T H E B E S T O F A L A S K A’ S S H I P S 9

1 The Best of Alaska’s Ships• The Best Ships for Luxury: Luxury

in Alaska is defined in 2008 by themidsized ships operated by RegentSeven Seas and Silversea Cruises, thelatter returning to Alaska after a 1-yearabsence. If you want a more casualkind of luxury—a really nice shipwith a no-tie-required policy—theSeven Seas Mariner offers just that onan all-suite vessel (most cabins haveprivate balconies) with excellent cui-sine. Silversea, on the other hand,with its Silver Shadow, represents aslick,Italian-influenced luxury experi-ence with all the perks—big suitecabins, fine food, fine linens, and finecompanions. Both lines include finewine and booze and gratuities in theircruise fares. If you’re more the small-ship type, for the ultimate Alaskaexperience in an intimate setting,check out the yachts of AmericanSafari Cruises, where soft adventurecomes with luxury accoutrements.

• The Best of the Mainstream Ships:Every line’s most recent ships arebeautiful, but Celebrity’s Infinity is astunner as is its sister ship, Millen-nium. These modern vessels, withtheir extensive art collections, cushypublic rooms, and expanded spaareas, give Celebrity a formidablepresence in Alaska. And the late-model Sapphire Princess and Dia-mond Princess (which both debutedin 2004) have raised the art of build-ing big ships to new heights. Both ofthese vessels will again be in InsidePassage service this year—departingfrom Vancouver.

• The Best of the Small Ships: CruiseWest is the biggest small-ship playernow that Clipper and Glacier BayCruiseline have vanished from thescene. Our fave of the fleet is theSpirit of ’98, which has the cool hookof looking and feeling like a Victorian

steamship—although it was actuallybuilt in 1984. And for real nostalgia,Majestic Cruise Line’s Empress of theNorth, a real stern-wheeler, is hard tobeat (the ship was out of service for atime in 2007 after it hit some rocksoff Juneau, but was expected to beoperational in 2008). Sailing on theEmpress, watching the paddle wheelthrow spray, is to take a step back intime to the golden age of steamboattravel.

• The Best Ships for Families: All themajor lines have well-establishedkids’ programs. Holland America andNorwegian Cruise Line win points inAlaska for their special shore excur-sions for kids and teens, and Carnivalgets a nod for offering shore excur-sions for teens.

• The Best Ships for Pampering: It’s atossup—Celebrity’s Infinity and Mil-lennium offer wonderful AquaSpascomplete with thalassotherapy poolsand a wealth of soothing and beauti-fying treatments, and the solariumson Royal Caribbean’s Rhapsody of theSeas, Serenade of the Seas, and Radi-ance of the Seas offer relaxing indoorpool retreats. Luxury line RegentSeven Seas, of course, pampers allaround. Ditto for the very posh Sil-versea Cruises.

• The Best Shipboard Cuisine: RegentSeven Seas is tops in this category,especially in the creative department,although Silversea, with its emphasison preparation, has plenty to appealto foodies as well—you want yourfilet rare, you’ll get it rare. Of themainstream lines, Celebrity hasimpressed in the past, though theyrecently dropped their affiliation withrenowned French chef Michel Roux.Dinner in the reservations-only spe-cialty restaurants on both the Infinityand the Millennium ($30 service

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C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F A L A S K A C R U I S I N G10

C A N A D A

To Vancouver& Seattle

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Juneau

Yakutat

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DeadhorsePrudhoe Bay

Barrow

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AtkaAtka

AdakAdak

BethelBethel

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Prince Rupert

Whitehorse

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Kodiak

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Dillingham

KingSalmon

Unalakleet

Galena

McGrath

Fort GlenFort Glen

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ValdezAnchorageWhittier

Seward

NomeNome

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ANIAKCHAK NAT’LMONUMENT AND PRESERVE

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RUSSIA

Adak Island

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Island

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LynnCanal

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CHICHAGOF ISLAND

SitkaSitkaSitka

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T H E B E S T O F A L A S K A’ S S H I P S 11

Southeast Alaska, See Inset

C A N A D AC A N A D A

To VancouverTo Vancouver& Seattle& Seattle

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Island

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YakutatYakutat

KenaiKenai

DeadhorseDeadhorsePrudhoe BayPrudhoe Bay

BarrowBarrow

ColdBay

DutchHarbor

Atka

Adak

Bethel

UnalaskaUnimak

FairbanksFairbanks

Prince RupertPrince Rupert

WhitehorseWhitehorse

Dawson CityDawson City

CordovaCordova

KodiakKodiak

PalmerPalmerWasillaWasilla

GlennallenGlennallen

McCarthyMcCarthy

TokTok

DeltaDeltaJunctionJunction

North PoleNorth Pole

ChenaChenaHot SpringsHot Springs CircleCircle

Fort YukonFort Yukon

EagleEagle

ManleyManleyHot SpringsHot Springs

NenanaNenana

TalkeetnaTalkeetna

WillowWillow

BettlesBettles

HomerHomerHalibut Cove

SeldoviaSeldovia

SoldotnaSoldotna

KotzebueKotzebue

DillinghamDillingham

KingKingSalmonSalmon

UnalakleetUnalakleet

GalenaGalena

McGrathMcGrath

Fort Glen

AnaktuvukAnaktuvukPassPass

ValdezValdezAnchorageAnchorageWhittierWhittier

SewardSeward

Nome

GLACIER BAY NAT’LGLACIER BAY NAT’LPARK AND PRESERVEPARK AND PRESERVE

ANIAKCHAK NAT’LANIAKCHAK NAT’LMONUMENT AND PRESERVEMONUMENT AND PRESERVE

YUKON DELTANAT’L

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WRANGELL–ST. ELIASWRANGELL–ST. ELIASNAT’L PARK NAT’L PARK

AND PRESERVEAND PRESERVE

KENAI FJORDSKENAI FJORDSNAT’L PARKNAT’L PARK

DENALIDENALINAT’L PARKNAT’L PARK

LAKE CLARKLAKE CLARKNAT’L PARKNAT’L PARK

AND PRESERVEAND PRESERVE

KATMAI NAT’LKATMAI NAT’LPARK AND PRESERVEPARK AND PRESERVE

CAPE KRUSENSTERNCAPE KRUSENSTERNNAT’L MON.NAT’L MON.

NOATAK NAT’LNOATAK NAT’LPRESERVEPRESERVE

BERING LAND BRIDGEBERING LAND BRIDGENAT’L PRESERVENAT’L PRESERVE

YUKON-CHARLEY RIVERSYUKON-CHARLEY RIVERSNAT’L PRESERVENAT’L PRESERVE

YUKON FLATSYUKON FLATSNAT’L WILDLIFENAT’L WILDLIFE

REFUGEREFUGE

YUKON DELTANAT’L WILDLIFE

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GATES OF THEGATES OF THEARCTIC NAT’L PARKARCTIC NAT’L PARK

AND PRESERVEAND PRESERVE

ARCTIC NAT’LARCTIC NAT’LWILDLIFE WILDLIFE REFUGEREFUGE

KOBUK VALLEYKOBUK VALLEYNAT’L PARKNAT’L PARK

C A N A D A

To Vancouver& Seattle

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Yakutat

Kenai

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Fairbanks

Prince Rupert

Whitehorse

Dawson City

Cordova

Kodiak

PalmerWasilla

Glennallen

McCarthy

Tok

DeltaJunction

North Pole

ChenaHot Springs Circle

Fort Yukon

Eagle

ManleyHot Springs

Nenana

Talkeetna

Willow

Bettles

Homer

Seldovia

Soldotna

Kotzebue

Dillingham

KingSalmon

Unalakleet

Galena

McGrath

AnaktuvukPass

ValdezAnchorageWhittier

Seward

GLACIER BAY NAT’LPARK AND PRESERVE

ANIAKCHAK NAT’LMONUMENT AND PRESERVE

WRANGELL–ST. ELIASNAT’L PARK

AND PRESERVE

KENAI FJORDSNAT’L PARK

DENALINAT’L PARK

LAKE CLARKNAT’L PARK

AND PRESERVE

KATMAI NAT’LPARK AND PRESERVE

CAPE KRUSENSTERNNAT’L MON.

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BERING LAND BRIDGENAT’L PRESERVE

YUKON-CHARLEY RIVERSNAT’L PRESERVE

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charge per person) is a very special,pampered dining experience. Butsomewhat surprisingly, the NouveauSupper Club on the Carnival Spirit(service charge $30 per person) alsopresents an impressive dining experi-ence that will especially appeal to fansof elegant steakhouses—the beef isproperly aged and expertly grilled.Carnival has also upgraded both itsmain dining room and buffet offer-ings.

• The Best Ships for Onboard Activ-ities: The ships operated by Carnivaland Royal Caribbean have rostersteeming with onboard activities thatrange from the sublime (such as lec-tures) to the ridiculous (such as con-tests designed to get passengers to door say outrageous things). Princess’sScholarShip@Sea program is a realwinner, with exciting packagedclasses in such diverse subjects asphotography, personal computers,cooking, and pottery—they evenrecently added scrapbooking to themix.

• The Best Ships for Entertainment:Look to the big ships here. Carnivaland Royal Caribbean are tops when itcomes to an overall package of shows,nightclub acts, lounge performances,and audience-participation entertain-ment. Princess also offers particularlywell-done—if somewhat less lavishlystaged—shows.

• The Best Ships for Whale-Watch-ing: If the whales come close enough,you can see them from all the ships inAlaska. But smaller ships—such asthose operated by Cruise West, Lind-blad, and American Safari—mightactually change course to follow awhale. Get your cameras ready!

• The Best Ships for Cruisetours:With their own fleets of deluxemotorcoaches and railcars, Princess,Holland America, and more recentlyRoyal Caribbean Cruises (whichowns Royal Caribbean and Celebrity)are the market leaders in getting youinto the Interior of Alaska, eitherbefore or after your cruise. Princessand Holland America also ownlodges and hotels, and some of theother lines actually buy their landproduct components from theselines. One of Holland America’sstrengths is its 3- and 4-night cruisescombined with an Alaska/Yukon landpackage. The company offers exclu-sive entry into the Yukon’s KluaneNational Park, and they’ve addedanother Yukon gem—TombstoneTerritorial Park, near Dawson City, aregion of staggering wilderness beauty,Native architecture, stunning vistas,and wildlife. Princess is arguablystronger in 7-night Gulf of Alaskacruises in conjunction with Denali/Fairbanks or Kenai Peninsula cruise-tour arrangements.

C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F A L A S K A C R U I S I N G12

2 The Best PortsJuneau and Skagway are our favorites.Juneau is one of the most visually pleas-ing small cities anywhere and certainly theprettiest capital city in America. It’sfronted by the Gastineau Channel andbacked by Mount Juneau and MountRoberts, offers the very accessibleMendenhall Glacier, and is otherwise sur-rounded by wilderness—and it’s a reallyfun city to visit, too.

As for Skagway, no town in Alaska ismore historically significant, and the oldbuildings are so perfect you might thinkyou stepped into a Disney version of whata gold-rush town should look like. If, thatis, you can get over the decidedly turn-of-the-millennium Starbucks at the Mercan-tile Center and the 15 or so upscalejewelry shops that have followed cruisepassengers from the Caribbean (like some

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of the locals we know, we were thrilledlast year to discover that Little Switzer-land, one such shop, had actually pulledup stakes and moved on after a not-very-successful run in Skagway). There arepeople who will tell you that Skagway ishokey, touristy—and it is. But if you canget yourself into the right frame of mind,if you can recall the history of the place,the gold-rush frenzy that literally put thetown on the map, it’s easier to capture thetrue spirit of Skagway. The residents havemade every effort to retain as much aspossible of the architecture and historic

significance of their community, and theydon’t mind sharing it with visitors duringthe cruise season. For a more low-keyAlaska experience, take the ferry fromSkagway to Haines, which reminds us ofthe folksy, frontier Alaska depicted on theTV show Northern Exposure, and is a greatplace to spot eagles and other wildlife.Some ships also stop at Haines as a portof call, usually for a few hours after Skag-way, and this is one town we’re pleased toreport has not been changed by theadvent of cruise-ship visitors.

T H E B E S T S H O R E E X C U R S I O N S 13

3 The Best Shore ExcursionsFlightseeing and helicopter trips inAlaska are unforgettable ways to checkout the scenery if you can afford them.But airborne tours tend to be prettypricey—some of them approaching $600a head. A helicopter trip to a dog-sledcamp at the top of a glacier (usually thepriciest of the offerings) affords bothincredibly pretty views and a chance totry your hand at the truly Alaskan sportof dog sledding. (Yes, even in summer:The sleds may be fitted with wheels.) It’sa great way to earn bragging rights withthe folks back home. For a less extrava-gant excursion, nothing beats a ride on aclear day on the White Pass & YukonRoute Railway out of Skagway to theCanadian border—the route was expandedin 2007 to take passengers to Fraser, at theborder, and on to Carcross (also known asCaribou Cross) in the Yukon Territory,some 30 more miles into Canada. Thetrain route is the same one followed bythe gold stampeders of 1898. Whileyou’re riding the rails, try to imagine whatit was like for those gold seekers crossingthe same path on foot!

And we also like to get active withkayak and mountain-biking excursionsoffered by most lines at most ports. Inaddition to affording a chance to work offthose shipboard calories, these excursionstypically provide optimum opportunitiesfor spotting eagles, bears, seals, and otherwildlife. Ziplining is just plain fun forthose who want to try soaring on a wireabove the treetops—the adrenaline rushcan be addictive.

Another, less hectic shore excursionthat goes down well with many passen-gers is a float ride down one of the moreplacid stretches of Alaska’s myriad rivers,such as the Kenai, the Mendenhall, or theChilkat. These outings don’t involve a lotof paddling—which can be hard work—but instead use the natural flow of theriver to propel the four- to six-person rub-ber raft downstream. And they involvelittle or no white water. Generally, thegroup will stop for a picnic lunch enroute and return to the staging area bymotorcoach or automobile.

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