The Best of Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán

by David Baird & Lynne Bairstow

The Yucatán Peninsula welcomes more visitors than any other part of Mexico. Itstremendous variety attracts every kind of traveler with an unequaled mix of sophisti-cated resorts, rustic inns, ancient Maya culture, exquisite beaches, and exhilaratingadventures. Between the two of us, we’ve logged thousands of miles crisscrossing thepeninsula, and these are our personal favorites—the best places to go, the best restau-rants, the best hotels, and must-see, one-of-a-kind experiences.

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1 The Best Beach Vacations• Cancún: Essentially one long ribbon

of white sand bordering aquamarinewater, Cancún has one of Mexico’smost beautifully situated beaches. Ifyou want tropical drinks brought toyou while you lounge in the sand,this is the vacation for you. ThoughCancún has a reputation as abustling, modern megaresort, it’s alsoa great place for exploring Caribbeanreefs, peaceful lagoons, and the sur-rounding jungle. The most tranquilwaters and beaches on Cancún Islandare those at the northern tip, facingthe Bahía de Mujeres. See chapter 4.

• Isla Mujeres: If laid-back is whatyou’re after, this idyllic island offerspeaceful, small-town beach life at itsbest. Most accommodations aresmaller, inexpensive inns, with a fewunique, luxurious places tossed in.Bike—or take a golf cart—aroundthe island to explore rocky coves andsandy beaches, or focus your tanningefforts on the wide beachfront ofPlaya Norte. Here you’ll find calmwaters and palapa restaurants, where

you can have fresh-caught fish forlunch. You’re close to great diving andsnorkeling just offshore, as well as IslaContoy National Park, which fea-tures great bird life and its own dra-matic, uninhabited beach. If all thattranquillity starts to get to you, you’reonly a ferry ride away from the actionin Cancún. See chapter 5.

• Cozumel: It may not have lots of big,sandy beaches, but Cozumel hassomething the mainland doesn’t: thecalm, flat waters of the shelteredwestern shore. It’s so easy, it’s likeswimming in an aquarium. Cozumelalso has lots to see under the water.See chapter 5.

• Playa del Carmen: This is one of ourabsolute favorite Mexican beach vaca-tions. Stylish and hip, Playa del Car-men has a beautiful beach and aneclectic assortment of small hotels,inns, and cabañas. The social scenefocuses on the beach by day and thepedestrian-only Quinta Avenida (FifthAvenue) by night, with its fun assort-ment of restaurants, clubs, sidewalk

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cafes, and shops. You’re also close tothe coast’s major attractions, includ-ing nature parks, ruins, and, cenotes(sinkholes or natural wells). CozumelIsland is just a quick ferry trip away.Enjoy it while it’s still a manageablesize. See chapter 6.

• Tulum: Fronting some of the bestbeaches on the entire coast, Tulum’ssmall palapa hotels offer guests a little

slice of paradise far from crowds andmegaresorts. The bustling town liesinland; at the coast, things are quietand will remain so because all thesehotels are small and must generatetheir own electricity. If you can pullyourself away from the beach, nearbyare ruins to explore and a vast naturepreserve. See chapter 6.

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2 The Best Cultural Experiences• Exploring the Inland Yucatán Penin-

sula: Travelers who venture only to theYucatán’s resorts and cities miss therock-walled inland villages, wherewomen wear colorful embroidereddresses and life seems to proceed asthough the modern world (with theexception of highways) didn’t exist.The adventure of seeing newly uncov-ered ruins, deep in jungle settings, isnot to be missed. See chapters 6 and 7.

• Street & Park Entertainment(Mérida): Few cities have so vibrant astreet scene as Mérida. Throughoutthe week you can catch music anddance performances in plazas aboutthe city, and on Sunday, Mérida reallygets going—streets are closed off, foodstalls spring up everywhere, and youcan enjoy a book fair, a flea market,comedy acts, band concerts, anddance groups. At night, the main plazais the place to be: People dance tomambos and rumbas in the street infront of the town hall. See chapter 7.

• San Cristóbal de las Casas: The cityof San Cristóbal is a living museum,with 16th-century colonial architec-ture and pre-Hispanic native influ-ences. The highland Maya live insurrounding villages and arrive dailyin town wearing colorful handmadeclothing. The villages are a windowinto another world, giving visitors aglimpse of traditional Indian dress,religious customs, churches, and cer-emonies. See chapter 8.

• Regional Cuisine: A trip to theYucatán allows for a culinary tour ofsome of Mexico’s finest foods. Don’tmiss specialties such as pollo orcochinita pibil (chicken or pork insavory achiote sauce), great seafooddishes, the many styles of tamal foundthroughout Chiapas and the Yucatán,and Caribbean-influenced foods suchas fried bananas, black beans, and yucaroot. For a glossary of popular regionaldishes, see appendix B.

3 The Best Archaeological Sites• Calakmul: Of the many elegantly

built Maya cities of the Río Bec area inthe lower Yucatán, Calakmul is thebroadest in scope and design. It’s also one of the hardest to get to—about 48km (30 miles) from theGuatemalan border and completelysurrounded by jungle (actually, the

Calakmul Biological Reserve). Calak-mul is a walled city with the tallestpyramid in the Yucatán—a city whoseprimary inhabitants are the trees thatpopulate the plazas. Go now, while itremains infrequently visited. See “TheRío Bec Ruin Route” in chapter 6.

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• Tulum: Some dismiss Tulum as lessimportant than other ruins in theYucatán Peninsula, but this seasideMaya fortress is still inspiring. Thestark contrast of its crumbling stonewalls against the clear turquoiseocean just beyond is an extraordinarysight. See “Tulum, Punta Allen &Sian Ka’an” in chapter 6.

• Uxmal: No matter how many times Isee Uxmal, the splendor of its stonecarvings remains awe-inspiring. Astone rattlesnake undulates across thefacade of the Nunnery complex, and103 masks of Chaac—the rain god—project from the Governor’s Palace. See“The Ruins of Uxmal” in chapter 7.

• Chichén Itzá: Stand beside the giantserpent head at the foot of the ElCastillo pyramid and marvel at thearchitects and astronomers who posi-tioned the building so precisely thatshadow and sunlight form a serpent’s

body slithering from peak to theearth at each equinox (Mar 21 andSept 21). See “The Ruins of ChichénItzá” in chapter 7.

• Ek Balam: In recent years, this is thesite where some of Mexico’s mostastounding archaeological discoverieshave been made. Ek Balam’s mainpyramid is taller than Chichén Itzá’s,and it holds a sacred doorway bor-dered with elaborate stucco figures ofpriests and kings and rich iconogra-phy. See “Ek Balam: Dark Jaguar” inchapter 7.

• Palenque: The ancient builders ofthese now-ruined structures carvedhistories in stone that scholars haveonly recently deciphered. Imagine themagnificent ceremony in A.D. 683when King Pacal was buried belowground in a secret pyramidal tomb—unspoiled until its discovery in 1952.See “Palenque” in chapter 8.

T H E B E S T A C T I V E V A C AT I O N S 7

4 The Best Active Vacations• Scuba Diving in Cozumel & along

the Yucatán’s Caribbean Coast: Thecoral reefs off the island, Mexico’spremier diving destination, are amongthe top five dive spots in the world.The Yucatán’s coastal reef, part of thesecond-largest reef system in the world,affords excellent diving all along thecoast. Especially beautiful is the Chin-chorro Reef, lying 32km (20 miles)offshore from Majahual or Xcalak.Diving from Isla Mujeres is also quitespectacular. See chapters 5 and 6.

• Fly-Fishing off the Punta Allen &Majahual Peninsulas: Seriousanglers will enjoy the challenge of fly-fishing the saltwater flats and lagoonson the protected sides of these penin-sulas. See “Tulum, Punta Allen &Sian Ka’an” and “Majahual, Xcalak &the Chinchorro Reef” in chapter 6.

• Cenote Diving on the Yucatán Main-land: Dive into the clear depths of theYucatán’s cenotes for an interesting twiston underwater exploration. The Mayaconsidered the cenotes sacred—andtheir vivid colors so indeed seem other-worldly. Most are between Playa delCarmen and Tulum, and dive shops inthese areas regularly run trips for expe-rienced divers. For recommended diveshops, see “Cozumel” in chapter 5, and“Playa del Carmen” and “South ofPlaya del Carmen” in chapter 6.

• An Excursion to Bonampak & Yax-chilán: Bonampak and Yaxchilán—two remote, jungle-surrounded Mayasites along the Usumacinta River—arenow accessible by car and motorboat.The experience could well be the high-light of any trip. See “Road Trips fromSan Cristóbal” in chapter 8.

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• Birding: The Yucatán Peninsula,Tabasco, and Chiapas are an ornitho-logical paradise, with hundreds ofspecies awaiting the birder’s gaze andlist. One very special place is Isla

Contoy, with more than 70 species ofbirds as well as a host of marine andanimal life. See p. 112, chapter 6, andchapter 8.

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5 The Best Places to Get Away from It All• Isla Mujeres: If there’s one island in

Mexico that guarantees a respite fromstress, it’s Isla Mujeres. You’ll find anample selection of hotels and restau-rants, and they’re as laid-back as theirpatrons. Here life moves along in puremañana mode. Visitors stretch out anddoze beneath shady palms or languidlystroll about. For many, the best partabout this getaway is that it’s comfort-ably close to Cancún’s internationalairport, as well as to shopping and din-ing, should you choose to reconnect.See “Isla Mujeres” in chapter 5.

• The Yucatán’s Riviera Maya: Awayfrom the busy resort of Cancún, astring of quiet getaways, includingCapitán Lafitte, Paamul, Punta Bete,and a portion of Xpu-ha, offer tran-quillity on beautiful beaches at lowprices. See “North of Playa del Car-men” and “South of Playa del Carmen” in chapter 6.

• Tulum: Near the Tulum ruins, abouttwo-dozen beachside palapa innsoffer some of the most peaceful get-aways in the country. This stretch justmight offer the best sandy beaches onthe entire coast. Life here among thebirds and coconut palms is decidedlyunhurried. See “Tulum, Punta Allen& Sian Ka’an” in chapter 6.

• Rancho Encantado Cottage Resort(Lago Bacalar; & 800/505-MAYAin the U.S., or 983/831-0037; www.

encantado.com): The attractive casitasare the place to unwind at this resort,where hammocks stretch betweentrees. The hotel is on the shores ofplacid Lago (Lake) Bacalar, south ofCancún near Chetumal, and there’snothing around for miles. But if youwant adventure, you can head out tothe lake in a kayak, follow a birdingtrail, or take an excursion to Belize andthe intriguing Maya ruins on thenearby Río Bec ruin route. See p. 176.

• Hotel Eco Paraíso Xixim (Celestún;& 988/916-2100; www.eco-paraiso.htm): In these crowded times, space isa luxury that’s getting harder to comeby. Space is precisely what makes thisplace so great: Fifteen bungalows and5km (3 miles) of beach bordering acoconut plantation. Throw in a goodrestaurant, a pool, and a couple ofhammocks, and you have that rarecombination of comfort and isolation.See p. 204.

• Hacienda San José Cholul: Thoughonly an hour outside the bustling cityof Mérida, this hacienda feels likeanother world. The quiet, unhurriedmanner of both guests and staff andthe beautiful tropical surroundingsmake it the perfect place to recoupsome of the silence and slow time lostto the modern world. See “HaciendaHotels” on p. 197.

6 The Best Museums• Museo de la Cultura Maya (Chetu-

mal): This modern museum, one ofthe best in the country, explores

Maya archaeology, architecture, his-tory, and mythology. It has interac-tive exhibits and a glass floor that

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allows visitors to walk above replicasof Maya sites. See p. 177.

• Museo Regional de Antropología(Mérida): Housed in the PalacioCantón, one of the most beautiful19th-century mansions in the city,this museum showcases area archaeol-ogy and anthropological studies inhandsome exhibits. See p. 191.

• Museo Regional de AntropologíaCarlos Pellicer Cámara (Villaher-mosa): This anthropology museumaddresses Mexican history in the formof objects found at archaeological

sites, with particular emphasis on thepre-Hispanic peoples of the GulfCoast region. See p. 241.

• Parque-Museo La Venta (Villaher-mosa): The Olmec, considered Mex-ico’s mother culture, are the subjectof this park/museum, which featuresthe magnificent stone remains thatwere removed from the La Venta sitenot far away. Stroll through a junglesetting where tropical birds alight,and examine the giant carved stoneheads of the mysterious Olmec. Seep. 242.

T H E B E S T S H O P P I N G 9

7 The Best ShoppingSome tips on bargaining: Although hag-gling over prices in markets is expectedand part of the fun, don’t try to browbeatthe vendor or bad-mouth the goods. Ven-dors won’t bargain with people they con-sider disrespectful unless they are desperateto make a sale. Be insistent but friendly.

• Resort Wear in Cancún: Resortclothing—especially if you can find asale—can be a bargain here. And theselection may be wider than what’savailable at home. Almost every mallon the island contains trendy bou-tiques that specialize in locallydesigned and imported clothing. See“Shopping” in chapter 4.

• Duty Free in Cancún: If you’re look-ing for European perfume, finewatches, or other imported goods,you’ll find the prices in Cancún’sduty-free shops (at the major mallson the island and in downtown Can-cún) hard to beat. See “Shopping” inchapter 4.

• Precious Gemstones in Isla Mujeres:Isla Mujeres, also a duty-free zone,offers an impressive selection of bothprecious stones and superb craftsmenwho can make jewelry designs toorder. See “Isla Mujeres” in chapter 5.

• Quinta Avenida, Playa del Carmen:This pedestrian-only street offers

leisurely shopping at its best. No cars,no hassle, simply stroll down thestreet and let your eye pick outobjects of interest. Expect a good bitof merchandise popular with coun-terculture types, such as batik cloth-ing and fabric, Guatemalan textiles,and inventive jewelry and artwork.But you’ll also find quality Mexicanhandicrafts, premium tequilas, andCuban cigars. See “Playa del Car-men” in chapter 6.

• Mérida: This is the marketplace forthe Yucatán—the best place to buyhammocks, guayaberas, Panama hats,and Yucatecan huipiles. See “Explor-ing Mérida” in chapter 7.

• San Cristóbal de las Casas: Deep inthe heart of the Maya highlands, SanCristóbal has shops, open plazas, andmarkets that feature the distinctivewaist-loomed wool and cotton textilesof the region, as well as leather shoes,handsome pottery, and Guatemalantextiles. Highland Maya Indians selldirect to tourists from their armloadsof textiles, dolls, and attractive minia-ture likenesses of SubcomandanteMarcos—complete with ski masks.See “San Cristóbal de las Casas” inchapter 8.

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8 The Hottest NightlifeAlthough, as expected, Cancún is thecenter of much of the Yucatán’s nightlife,that resort city isn’t the only place to havea good time after dark. Along theCaribbean coast, beachside dance floorswith live bands and extended “happyhours” in seaside bars dominate thenightlife. Here are some favorite hotspots, from live music in hotel lobby barsto hip techno dance clubs.

• Coco Bongo, Carlos ’n’ Charlie’s, LaBoom & Dady’O: These Cancún barsall offer good drinks, hot music, andgreat dance floors. Mango Tango is atop spot for live Cuban and Caribbeanrhythms in Cancún. See p. 97.

• Forum by the Sea: Here’s one placethat has it all: The newest of the seasideentertainment centers in Cancún hasa dazzling array of dance clubs, sportsbars, fast food, and fine dining, withshops open late as well. You’ll findplenty of familiar names here, includ-ing the Hard Rock Cafe and Rainfor-est Cafe. It’s also the home of Cancún’shottest club, Coco Bongo, which canpack in up to 3,000 revelers—anddoes so regularly. See p. 97.

• The City: Currently Cancún’s newestand hottest offering, The City (www.thecitycancun.com) is a day-and-night

club, offering a Beach Club with awave machine for simulated surfing, awater slide and beach cabañas, a Ter-race bar serving food and drinks, andthe sizzling Club, at which the world’stop DJs have spun through the nightuntil the sun once again rises over theturquoise waters. This is truly a Citythat never sleeps. See p. 97.

• The Lobby Lounge: Located in Can-cún’s luxurious Ritz-Carlton Hotel,this is the most elegant evening spoton the island. Romantic live music, aselection of fine cigars, and more than120 premium tequilas (plus tastings)allow you to savor the spirit of Mex-ico. See p. 98.

• San Cristóbal de las Casas: Thiscity, small though it may be, has alive-music scene that can’t be beat forfun and atmosphere. The bars andclubs are all within walking distance,and they’re a real bargain. See “SanCristóbal de las Casas” in chapter 8.

• Quinta Avenida, Playa del Carmen:Stroll along lively, pedestrian-onlyFifth Avenue to find the bar that’sright for you. With live music venues,tequila bars, sports bars, and cafes,you’re sure to find something to fityour mood. See p. 142.

9 The Most Luxurious Hotels• Aqua (Cancún; & 800/343-7821 in

the U.S.): This brand-new resort,part of the Fiesta Americana chain,was designed with a water theme inmind. The spa is a 1,500 sq.-m (over15,000-sq.-ft.) facility that blendsEastern, pre-Hispanic, and Westerntreatment philosophies. Tai Chi,yoga, and Pilates classes are offered,and you can indulge in a full array ofmassages and treatments. After you’verejuvenated, you can partake of the

exceptional cuisine offered at theresorts’ three restaurants under thedirection of celebrity chefs, or chill inthe Lounge to cool tunes and tempt-ing drinks. See p. 75.

• Le Méridien Cancún Resort & Spa (Cancún; & 800/543-4300 inthe U.S., or 998/881-2200; www.meridiencancun.com.mx): This is themost intimate of the luxury hotels inCancún, with an understated sense ofhighly personalized service. Most

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notable is its 4,546-sq.-m (15,000-sq.-ft.) Spa del Mar. See p. 78.

• Ritz-Carlton Hotel (Cancún; & 800/241-3333 in the U.S., or 998/881-0808; www.ritzcarlton.com): Thickcarpets, sparkling glass and brass, andrich mahogany surround guests at thishotel, which clearly sets the standardfor luxury in Cancún. The service isimpeccable, leaving guests with anoverall sense of pampered relaxation.In 2004, The Ritz’s spa received animpressive makeover. See p. 79.

• Presidente InterContinental Cozu-mel (Cozumel; & 800/327-0200 inthe U.S., or 987/872-9500; www.cozumel.intercontinental.com): Sur-rounded by shady palms, this hotelalso has the best beach on the island,right in front of Paraíso Reef. Favoriterooms are the deluxe beachside unitswith spacious patios and direct accessto the beach—you can even orderromantic in-room dining on thepatios, complete with a trio to serenadeyou. See p. 132.

• Ikal del Mar (north of Playa del Car-men; & 888/230-7330 in the U.S.):Small, secluded, and private, Ikal delMar offers extraordinary personalservice and spa treatments. Roomsare spread out through the jungle,

and there’s a beautiful seaside pooland restaurant. See p. 156.

• Maroma (north of Playa del Carmen;& 866/454-9351 in the U.S.): Youcannot ask for a better setting for aresort than this beautiful stretch ofCaribbean coast with palm trees andmanicured gardens. You’ll start torelax before you even take the first sipof your welcome cocktail. Service isvery attentive, and the rooms arelarge and luxurious. See p. 156.

• Paraíso de la Bonita (north of Playadel Carmen; & 800/327-0200 in theU.S.): Operated by InterContinentalHotels, this resort has a super-equipped spa based on the elaboratesystem of thalassotherapy. The guestrooms are elaborate, and the hotelprovides all kinds of services. It hasthree pools and an immaculately keptbeach. See p. 156.

• Hacienda Xcanatún (outskirts ofMérida; & 888/883-3633 in theU.S.): Large, boldly designed suitesbuilt with extravagance in mind,extensive grounds, private spa, excel-lent restaurant, and ample staff—thishotel does the difficult trick of beingsmall in size but large in offerings. See“Hacienda Hotels” on p. 196.

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10 The Best Budget Inns• Cancún INN Suites El Patio (Can-

cún City; & 998/884-3500; www.cancun-suites.com): This European-style inn welcomes many guests forrepeat or long-term stays. Each roomis tastefully decorated, and all sur-round a plant-filled courtyard. Specialpackages combine Spanish lessons andaccommodations. It’s an oasis of cul-tured hospitality in one of Mexico’smost commercial beach resorts. See p. 83.

• Rey del Caribe Hotel (Cancun; & 998/884-2028): A unique oasis in

downtown Cancún, this hotel hasconsidered every detail in its quest for an organic and environmentallyfriendly lifestyle. Set in a tropical garden, the combination of sunnyrooms, warm service, yoga and medi-tation classes, and healthful dining is a welcome respite to party-heartyCancún. See p. 83.

• Treetops (Playa del Carmen; & 984/873-0351; www.treetopshotel.com):An economical, quiet hotel steps fromboth the beach and Avenida 5, Tree-tops could easily get by on location

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alone. But the owners have gone outof their way to create a distinctivelodging with plenty of amenities. Thehotel has its very own cenote and pieceof shady jungle, making it a lovelyplace to relax after a trying day ofstrolling the beach and wandering thevillage streets. See p. 147.

• Casa San Juan (Mérida; & 999/986-2937; www.casasanjuan.com):This B&B, in a colonial house inMérida’s historic district, is the per-fect combination of comfort and

character at a great price. The guestrooms in the original building evokean earlier time, while the modernrooms in back are quite large andborder a lovely patio. See p. 199.

• Hotel Dolores Alba (Mérida; & 999/928-5650; www.doloresalba.com):The new rooms offer all the comfortsat a rate that other hotels in this cate-gory can’t match. Add to this the newpool and large sunning area, and I callit a bargain. See p. 199.

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11 The Best Unique Inns• Casa de los Sueños Resort & Spa

Zenter (Isla Mujeres; & 998/877-0651): This luxury B&B is steeped invibrant colors. Its small but well-appointed spa and “Zenter,” which isalso accessible to nonguests, offersyoga classes, massages, and holisticspa treatments, which take placeeither outdoors or in a tranquilindoor space. See p. 113.

• Hotel Villa Rolandi Gourmet &Beach Club (Isla Mujeres; & 998/877-0700; www.rolandi.com): Inaddition to being steps away from anexquisite private cove, a tranquilinfinity pool, and Isla’s finest dining,this intimate inn also pampers guestswith every conceivable in-roomamenity. Each unit even has a privateJacuzzi on the balcony and a showerthat converts into a steam room. Seep. 114.

• Hotel Jungla Caribe (Playa del Car-men; & 984/873-0650; www.jungla-caribe.com): In a town filled withexceptional inns, this one’s a standout.The eclectic decor combines neoclas-sical details with a decidedly tropicaltouch. The rooms and suites surrounda stylish courtyard, restaurant, andpool. You couldn’t be better located—1 block from the beach, with an

entrance on happening Avenida 5. Seep. 147.

• Deseo Hotel + Lounge (Playa delCarmen; & 984/879-3620): Perhapsit should be Hotel = Lounge. Thatmight be an overstatement, but thelounge is at the center of everything,making Deseo the perfect fit for out-going types who are into an alterna-tive lodging experience. Enjoy acocktail at the bar or on one of thelarge daybeds and chill to the modernlounge music. See p. 145.

• Cuzan Guest House (Punta AllenPeninsula; & 983/834-0358; www.flyfishmx.com): Getting to the iso-lated lobster-fishing village of PuntaAllen is half the adventure. Then youcan retreat to one of the thatched-roof cottages, swing in a hammock,dine on lobster and stone crabs, andabsolutely forget there’s an outsideworld. There are no phones, televi-sions, or newspapers, and “town” is56km (35 miles) away. Nature tripsand fly-fishing are readily arranged.See p. 168.

• Casa Mexilio Guest House (Mérida;& 800/538-6802 in the U.S., or999/928-2505; www.mexicoholiday.com): An imaginative arrangement ofrooms around a courtyard features a

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pool surrounded by a riot of tropicalvegetation. The rooms are dividedamong different levels for privacy andare connected by stairs and catwalks.Breakfast here provides an extraincentive for getting out of bed. Seep. 198.

• Casa Na-Bolom (San Cristóbal de las Casas; & 967/678-1418): Thisunique house-museum is terrific for

anthropology buffs. Built as a semi-nary in 1891, it was transformed intothe headquarters of two anthropolo-gists. The 12 guest rooms, named forsurrounding villages, are decoratedwith local objects and textiles; allrooms have fireplaces and privatebathrooms, and the room rateincludes breakfast. See p. 259.

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12 The Best RestaurantsBest doesn’t necessarily mean most luxu-rious. Although some of the restaurantslisted here are fancy affairs, others aresimple places to get fine, authenticYucatecan cuisine.

• Aioli (Cancún; & 998/881-2200):Simply exquisite French and Mediter-ranean gourmet specialties served in awarm and cozy country French set-ting, at the hotel Le Méridien. Forquality and exceptional service, it’sCancún’s best value in fine dining. Seep. 85.

• Labná (Ciudad Cancún; & 998/892-3056): Steep yourself in Yucate-can cuisine and music at this down-town eatery, which showcases Mayanculture and cuisine. The Labná Spe-cial is a sample of the most traditionalof this region’s cuisine. See p. 89.

• La Dolce Vita (Cancún; & 998/885-0150): A longtime favorite, La DolceVita remains untouched by newerarrivals. It continues to draw dinerswith such blissful dishes as green tagli-olini with lobster medallions, vealwith morels, and fresh salmon withcream sauce, all served (at night) tothe sound of live jazz music. See p. 86.

• 100% Natural, for Licuados: Licua-dos, drinks made from fresh fruitmixed with water or milk, are muchmore popular than soft drinks. Thisrestaurant chain offers the widest

selection, including innovative mix-tures like the Cozumel (spinach,pineapple, and orange) and theCaligula (orange, pineapple, beet,celery, parsley, carrot, and limejuices)—a healthy indulgence. Can-cún has several branches.

• Zazil Ha (Isla Mujeres; & 998/877-0279): It doesn’t get morerelaxed and casual than Zazil Ha, withits sandy floor beneath thatched pala-pas and palms. This is the place forisland atmosphere and well-preparedfood. Along with its signature seafoodand Caribbean cuisine, this restau-rant continues to prove that vegetar-ian cuisine can be both artfully andtastefully prepared. It also offers spe-cial menus for those participatingin yoga retreats on the island. Seep. 118.

• Cabaña del Pescador (LobsterHouse; Cozumel; no phone): If youwant an ideally seasoned, succulentlobster dinner, Cabaña del Pescador(Lobster House) is the place. If youwant anything else, you’re out ofluck—lobster dinner, expertly pre-pared, is all it serves. When you’veachieved perfection, why bother withanything else? See p. 133.

• Prima (Cozumel; & 987/872-4242):The Italian food here is fresh, fresh,fresh—from the hydroponically grownvegetables to the pasta and garlic bread.

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And it’s all prepared after you walk in, most of it by owner AlbertDomínguez, who concocts unforget-table shrimp fettuccine with pesto,crab ravioli with cream sauce, and crisphouse salad in a chilled bowl. See p. 134.

• Media Luna (Playa del Carmen; & 984/873-0526): The invitingatmosphere of this sidewalk cafe onAvenida 5 is enough to lure you in.The expertly executed and innovativemenu, together with great prices,makes it one of the top choices on theCaribbean coast. See p. 149.

• La Pigua (Campeche; & 981/811-3365): Campeche’s regional specialty

is seafood, and nowhere else will youfind seafood like this. Mexican caviar,coconut-battered shrimp, and chilesstuffed with shark are just a few of theunique specialties. Thinking about LaPigua’s pompano in a fine green herbsauce makes me want to start checkingflight schedules. See p. 224.

• Yaxché (Playa del Carmen; & 984/873-2502): No restaurant in theYucatán explores the region’s culinarytraditions and use of local ingredientsmore than this one. Its menu presentsseveral pleasant surprises and is a wel-come relief from the standard offer-ings of most Yucatecan restaurants.See p. 149.

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