Someoftherecipesinthisbookincluderaworpoachedeggs.Whenconsumedraw,thereisalwaystheriskthatbacteria,whichiskilledbypropercooking,maybepresent.Forthisreason,alwaysbuycertifiedsalmonella-freeeggsfromareliablegrocer,storingthemintherefrigeratoruntiltheyareserved.Becauseofthehealthrisksassociatedwiththeconsumptionofbacteriathatcanbepresentinraweggs,theyshouldnotbeconsumedbyinfants,smallchildren,pregnantwomen,theelderly,oranypersonswhomaybeimmunocompromised.Theauthorandpublisherexpresslydisclaimresponsibilityforanyadverseeffectsthatmayresultfromtheuseorapplicationoftherecipesandinformationcontainedinthisbook.

Copyright©2012byJamesFreemanPhotographscopyright©2012byClayMcLachlan

Allrightsreserved.PublishedintheUnitedStatesbyTenSpeedPress,animprintoftheCrownPublishingGroup,adivisionofRandomHouse,Inc.,NewYork.www.crownpublishing.comwww.tenspeed.com

TenSpeedPressandtheTenSpeedPresscolophonareregisteredtrademarksofRandomHouse,Inc.

LibraryofCongressCataloging-in-PublicationDataisonfilewiththepublisher

eISBN:978-1-60774-119-0

v3.1

CONTENTS

Introduction

GrowCoffeeGrowingProcessing

GettingtoKnowCoffeefromThreeFavoriteRegionsFarmerProfile:LorieObra,Hawaii

FarmerProfile:AidaBatlle,ElSalvador

RoastRoastingDay

HowtoRoastCoffeeatHomeCuppingandDescribingCoffeeFlavors

CuppingatHome

DrinkBrewedCoffeeTechniques

Pour-OverCoffeeFrench-PressCoffeeNelDripCoffeeSiphonCoffeeTurkishCoffee

EspressoMakingEspresso

EatWithYourMorningCoffee

PerfectforDunkingIntheAfternoonFromOurFriends

Acknowledgments

Index

INTRODUCTION

IhavehadopinionsaboutcoffeeeversinceIcanremember.TheseedswereplantedwhenIwasfourorfiveandmyparentsletmeopentheirgreencanofMJBCoffeewithacanopener.Ifeltsoadult—dangeroustoolsandcansofcoffee!Ilovedthemomentwhenthecanopenerpiercedthroughthemetalandtherewasthathissastheairrushedoutofthevacuum-sealedchamber.Allofthearomacameoutinawhoosh,anditsmelledincredible.Ibeggedmyparentsforataste,buttheyrefused.Myparents’coffeesetupwasseriouslyconsidered,emphaticallydefended,

andbrutallymisguided.WelivedinFieldbrook,aNorthernCaliforniatowninruralHumboldtCounty,wheremydadworkedfortheStateBoardofEqualizationandmymomwasahomemaker.TheyhadaCorningwareplug-inpercolatorwithalightbluecornflowerdesign—aclassic.Myparentsputinthecoffeethenightbeforeandsetthelamptimerthatmydadboughtatthehardwarestoresoallofuswouldwakeuptothatgurglingsound.AsIgotolder,Irealizedthatitwasthesoundofcoffeedying.Theydrankitwithextra-richmilk.Ibeggedandbeggedthemtoletmetrythecoffee,andaftermyprolonged

campaign,theyfinallyletmetakeasip.Ofcourse,Iwasrepulsed.Icouldn’tbelievehowterribleittastedcomparedtohowgooditsmelled.Itturnsoutthatthewhooshofcoffeearomacomingfromthecanwasthebestmomentthatthecoffeehad.Themaximallycheap,underdeveloped,pregroundcoffeeneverhadachanceoftastinggood.Thisexperiencestayedwithmemuchlongerthanitwouldhavehadthecoffeebeendelicious—thetensionbetweensmellingsomethinggreatandhavingittastehorriblegnawedawayatmeovertheyears.Icouldn’tshakethefeelingthattherewassupposedtobemoretotheexperienceofdrinkingcoffee.Ittookafewyearstohealfromthatexperience,andinsomewaysthe

Ittookafewyearstohealfromthatexperience,andinsomewaysthebafflementneverwentaway.ButthingsgotbetterwhenmyoldestsistermarriedandmovedtoSantaCruz,whereIwouldgoandvisit.HerhusbandwasborninItaly,so,asarebelliontomyparents’ways,theydrankMedagliad’Oro,whichtheypreparedinaMr.Coffeemachine.Mymother,ofcourse,didnotapprove.Theywoulddrinkpotsandpotsofcoffee,andtheywerecoolandyoung

enoughtobedifferentfrommyparents.Insteadoftalkingaboutroadconditions,salestax,andgrammaticalerrors,theytalkedaboutSolzhenitsyn,J.D.Salinger,andJerryBrown.Theydrankcoffeewithhalf-and-halfandsugar,whichmadethecoffeeitselfbesidethepoint.Attheirhouse,coffeewassocial.IwasabouttwelvewhenIstarteddrinkingit,anditwasfuntoparticipateinthisculturalexchange.Ifeltgrownupdrinkingcoffeeandtalkingabouttheissuesoftheday.Butdrinkingcoffeewithmysisterdidnotmakemecool.Aucontraire.AsI

gotolder,Ibecameincreasinglydedicatedtoplayingtheclarinet.TogiveyouanideaofhownerdyIwas,intheninthgradeIgaveupplayingDungeons&DragonssoIcouldspendmoretimepracticingmyclarinet.Onedayinhighschoolagroupofkidspushedmeupagainstsomelockersandcalledme“FluteBoy.”Ialmostsaid,“Well,actually…,”likeIwasgoingtocorrectthemforaccusingmeofplayingthewronginstrument.Whenitcametimetogotocollege,IenrolledintheUniversityofCalifornia

atSantaCruzsoIcouldstudyclarinetwithrenownedmusicianRosarioMazzeo,wholivedinCarmel,aboutanhouraway.Iwasworkingveryhard,aboutfourorfivehoursadaywithRosarioinCarmel,plustakingafullloadofcoursestowardaphilosophydegree,whichrequiredlotsofreadingandwriting.Istarteddrinkingalotofcoffee—alotofbadcoffee.WhenIwasworkingonapaperforacollegecourse,Iaveragedaboutonecup

ofcoffeepercompletedpageofthepaper.Itwaslessforpleasureandmoreapharmacologicalnecessity,anditonlyescalatedasIstartedworkingasamusician.Ifyouhavetoplayinaneighto’clockoperaandit’safour-hourshow,youneedcoffee.SantaCruzactuallyhadafewcaféswithdripcoffeebarsatthetime,andI

usedaplasticconeathome.Ididn’thaveverymuchmoney,buteveryonceinawhileIwenttothisstorethatthatsoldChemexandFrenchpresspotsandcoffeebeansfromdifferentorigins.Theirofferingsseemedexoticandunobtainable.WhenIhadalittlemoneyleftoverfromagig,Iwouldtryafewthings.ThatwasthefirsttimeIhadthechancetobuycoffeefromspecificplaces.Hmm,coffeefromKenya?Interesting.Aftercollege,IwenttoNewYorktostudywithKalmenOpperman,another

famousclarinetteacher,andthenworkedasaprofessionalclarinetistforeight

years,includingwhileIwasingraduateschoolattheSanFranciscoConservatoryofMusic.IbecamepartofwhatiscalledtheFreewayPhilharmonic,agroupofaround150peoplewholiveinandaroundSanFranciscoandplayforregionalsymphoniesnearby,insmallercitiesthroughoutNorthernCalifornia,suchasMonterey,Napa,andModesto.Sinceeachsymphonyonlyhadafive-orsix-weekseason,wetriedtopatchtogetheralivingbyplayinginseveraldifferentorchestras.Intandemwithmymusiccareer,myinterestincoffeecontinuedtogrow.I

gotintoroastingcoffeeathome,usingaperforatedbakingsheetintheoven.OnceinawhileIwouldgetonaplanetoperformoutsideofCalifornia.Backthen,ifyouweregoingtoPhoenixandwantedtodrinkgoodcoffee,youhadtofendforyourself.(Thismaystillbetrue.)IwouldpackbeansandaZassenhaushandgrinder,andsometimesI’deventakethemontheplanewithmylittleFrenchpressandasktheflightattendantforhotwater.Ifeellikeeverythingthathasworkedoutformeincoffeedidn’tworkoutfor

measamusician.Asclarinetplayer,IwassayingyestojobsIdidn’twantandnotwinningauditionstojobsIdidwant.Iwasgettingenoughworktolive,butitwasn’tmyfavoritework.Iwasdriving30,000milesayearinaseriesofbeat-upusedcars.Themomentwhenitcrystallizedformewasinearly1999.Duetothe

vicissitudesofmyfreelancingschedule,IendedupplayingHolst’sThePlanetsthreetimeswiththreedifferentorchestrasinasix-monthperiod.Maybeyouknowthatpiece.TherearerecycledversionsofitineverythingJohnWilliamsswipedfortheStarWarsmoviesandeverythingbombasticandshallowyou’veeverbeenannoyedbyineveryactionmovieofthelasttwentyyears,plusthehorriblePhrygianraisedfourththatwaseverywhereinearlytwentieth-centuryEnglishclassicalmusic(I’mtalkingtoyou,GordonJacob,andyou,EdwardElgar).ThePlanets,alongwithCarlOrff’sCarminaBurana,hadbeengratingonmemoreandmorewitheachpassingyearofbeingamusician.PlayingThePlanetswiththreeorchestraswithinayear,thistimeasclarinettwointheModestoSymphony,mademerealizethatifIplayeditonemoretime,Iwouldgoonarampageandhurtpeoplewithmyclarinets.IneededaplanB,andcoffeewasallIcouldimagine.However,therewasabriefinterlude.Atthetailendofthedot-comboom,

somefriendsaskedmetocomeworkforMongoMusic,awebsitesimilartoPandora’spersonalizedInternetradioservice.Thebasicconceptwas“Telluswhatsongsandartistsyoulike,andwe’llstreamyoumusicyou’llenjoy.”Imaginethisbigwallwithimpressivedialsandflashinglights,butbehinditsquirrelsontreadmillsfranticallytryingtokeepthelightson.Wewerethesquirrels—squirrelswithheadphoneson.Adifferentsongwaspipedinevery

squirrels—squirrelswithheadphoneson.Adifferentsongwaspipedineverythirtyseconds,andthenwedidaveryfast,cursory,musicalanalysis.I’dneverhadanine-to-five,Monday-to-Fridaykindofjobbefore.Asa

musician,Ihadpracticedalldayandperformedmostweekendnights.NowIhadasalary,gotpaideverytwoweeks,anddidn’thavetodrivetoModesto.ItwaswhatIneeded.Butitlastedallofsevenmonths,thenguyswearingtanpantsandpoloshirtsstartedshowingup.TurnsouttheywerefromMicrosoft.TheyshippedusuptoSeattle,whereMongobecameMSNmusic.Prettysoon,theyfiguredouthowtoautomatewhatthesquirrelsweredoing,andIwaslaidoffrightafterSeptember11,2001.LosingthatjobwashowIgotstartedinthecoffeebusiness.Atthatpoint,I

didn’twanttosellcoffeedrinks—thatcamelater.Iwantedtoroastandsellcoffeebeans.Iwasroastingcoffeeathome,experimentingwithdifferentbeansandroastinglevels,andIrealizedIneededacommercialspacededicatedtoroasting.Isawa“ForRent”signonTelegraphAvenueinOakland’sTemescaldistrict

andcalledthenumberonthesign.Itturnedoutthelandladyhadafairlylargespacethatwastooexpensiveforme.ButshewasintriguedwithwhatIwasproposing,andshesaidshehadalittlepottingshedthatwasavailable,rightoffthepatiooftherestaurantDoñaTomás.Itwas186squarefeet,andsheproposed$600amonthrent.Ididn’tknowrentswerenegotiable,soIagreed.Istartedbuildingitout,eventhoughIdidn’thavemuchmoney.Iwentto

IdahoandboughtalittleredDiedrichroaster.Irememberopeningthecrate,seeingtheroaster,andbeingastonishedthatthiswouldsoonbemycareer.Iputitatoneendoftheshedandinstalledathree-tubsink,oneofthemanysinksrequiredbythehealthdepartment.

Allofthoseearlyexperiencesweresovivid.Asthecoffeeroasted,Idumpedoutsmallamountsofitatone-minuteintervals,oreventwenty-secondintervals,andbrewedthem.Itwasanamazingprocessofself-educationanddiscovery.Basically,IwasfiguringoutwhatIthoughtwasdelicious.IhadthisimageofhowIwantedthingstotaste,andIwastryingtomakethathappen.IgotupearlybecauseIhadtostoproastingwhentherestaurantopenedfor

dinneratfive.Itwouldgetreallyhotintheshed,soIkeptthedooropen,andIusuallyblastedoperafrommylittlestereo.Assoonastheroasterwasinstalledinthespace,Ibegantodeveloproastingprofilesandblendsformyfirstfarmers’marketinmid-August2002.Later,whenbusinessstartedpickingup,IroastedalldayonSundaysandMondays,sincetherestaurantwasclosedthosedays.

alldayonSundaysandMondays,sincetherestaurantwasclosedthosedays.Theroastercouldonlyroast7pounds(3kg)atatime,andonce,beforeImovedtomyroastingfacilityinEmeryville,Ididfifty-threebatchesinarow,at17minutesabatch;it’sacompanyrecordthatstillstands.Atthattime,IorderedallofmybeansfromRoyalCoffee,agreencoffee

importerandsupplierBlueBottlestillusesforsomeofourcoffees.IwoulddrivedowntothewarehouseinEmeryvilleandloadtwoorthreebagsofcoffeeintomyPeugeotstationwagon.Itstillseemedsomysterious.Iwouldthink,“ThatcamefromYemen?Astonishing!”“ThatcamefromEthiopia?Amazing!”AsIopenedabag,I’dwonderwhatthecoffeewasgoingtobelike.ThemoreIthinkaboutitnow,themoreIrealizeitwasalittlecrazytojustshowupandactlikeacoffeeroasterbecauseIsayIam—togetsetupinthatlittleshed,scheduleinspections,andgetthemcheckedoff.ItfeelslikeIestablishedalegitimate,viablebusinessentitymostlythroughluckandstubbornness.NowthatIwaspayingrent,Ihadtostartsellingcoffee.Plus,myson,

Dashiell,hadjustbeenborntomeandmyfirstwife.MygoalwastohaveastandattheSaturdaySanFranciscoFerryPlazaFarmersMarketbutyouhavetoworkyourwayup,andthefirstmarketIcouldgetintowastheOldOaklandFarmers’Market,onFridays.Todosomeoutreach,IwenttotheFerryPlazamarketandgavebagsofmy

coffeetomyfavoritevendors:chocolatierMichaelRecchiuti,Berkeley’sAcmeBread,andMietteCakes.ThiswasbackwhentheSaturdaymarketwassmallerandstillaprecursortotoday’sFerryPlazaFarmersMarket,andbackwhenthenow-famousMichaelRecchiutiandMiettedidn’tyethavepermanentstores.OnedaywhenIwasattheOaklandmarket,itwassoslowthatImostlyjust

sattherereadingAdamGopnik’sParistotheMoon.ThenIgotacallfromoneofCaitlin’spartnersatMiette.Shesaidshehadanespressocartandwantedtousemycoffee.Yes!Ithought.Iwouldbesellinganextra4pounds(1.8kg)ofcoffeeaweek.

Awesome!WhenIstartedmakingthecoffeedrinksforMiette,Iimpresseduponthem,

perhapstooemphatically,thatcoffeewasverydifficulttomakeproperly.Soeventuallytheysoldmethecart.(Ifoundoutlaterthattheyhadchosenmycoffeeprimarilybecausetheythoughtthebagwascute.)WhileMiettewasoperatingthecart,Iwouldswingbytheirkitchentoprovidetrainingontechnique,andImetCaitlinduringmyfirsttrip.Atthetime,wewerebothinvolvedwithotherpeople,andourromancewouldn’tbeginforalmostayear,butIrememberthinkingwhatastrangecreatureCaitlinwas.Shewasfastandpragmaticandcuteandtough.Shewouldwearvintagedressestosellcakesatthefarmers’marketsandwouldconstantlytextherpartnersusinganearly

thefarmers’marketsandwouldconstantlytextherpartnersusinganearlysmartphonelikedevicecalledaSidekick.Inicknamedher“thebakerfromtheretro-future.”AlloftheMiettebakers,especiallyCaitlin,weresourcesofsuchfascinationforme—Ihadneverimaginedtheexistenceofwomensoearthy,ambitious,dedicated,andyoung,allatonce.Eventually,bothmyandCaitlin’ssingle-mindedfocusonourbusinessestooktheinevitabletollonourrelationships,sowewouldgettogethereverysooften,asconfirmedbachelors,tocomparenotesonourlivesandournewlysingleexistences.AfterafewweeksofhelpingCaitlinandhercrewmakecoffeeattheBerkeley

Farmers’Market,Iboughttheirespressocartandstartedrunningthecartatthemarkettwiceaweek.Slowly,peoplestartedtakingnoticeofmycoffee.Atthetime,itwasstillrare

tohaveshort,well-extractedshotsofespressoandmilkthatwasn’tsuperhotorbubbly.PlusIwastryingdifferentextractiontechniquesandusingdifferentbeans,blends,androastprofilesfortheespressso.IalsohadawobblywoodendripbarthatIwouldmakeallthebrewedcoffeeon:verylaboriously,onecupatatime.Peoplethoughtthatwascrazy.Theywerenotaccustomedtowaiting.Thesedaysit’smorecommonforpeopletopayattentiontothedetailswhilemakingcoffee—andtherearemorepeoplemakingcoffeethatdoesn’tflowoutofanairpot—butatthattimeitwasunusual.Somepeoplewereinterested,andsomethoughtitwasridiculous.That’sprobablystillthecase.Attheendof2003,renovationoftheFerryBuildingwascompleteandthe

markethadmovedtotheadjoiningplaza.Shortlythereafter,Iheardtherewasfinallyanopeningforacoffeecartatthemarket.Ihadtocomeinandgiveablindtasting.Ididn’tknowthatanotherroasterhadbeeninvitedtogiveatastingatthesametime.Hehadaverypolishedpresentation,withimmaculatetotesstackedonahandcart.Ahandcart!Whydidn’tIthinkofthat?Theytookourcoffeestoatastingpanelinanotherroom.AweeklaterIfoundoutthatIgotin.Myspotwasofftotheside,inwhatwasthenadeadzoneneararotisserie

chickentruck.Ihadoneemployeewhocametohelpanhourbeforethemarketstarted;otherwiseitwasjustme,myPeugeotwagon,andthecart.IrememberacoupleofdrizzlySaturdaysinDecemberwhenthingswere

reallyquiet.Then,oneSaturdayinJanuarytheweathergotnicer.ItwasrightbeforethewinterFancyFoodShow,whichisalwaysheldinSanFrancisco,sotherewerealotofchefsandfoodpeopleintown.Ilookedup,andsuddenlytherewerefifteenpeopleinline.It’sbasicallybeenlikethateversince.

Peoplewouldwaitalongtimefortheircoffee.Theymusthavefounditunusual,watchingacoupleofpeopletotakeforevertomakeonedrink.Itmusthavelookedarduousandfascinating.Ultimately,theylikedtheproduct.Butitwasallsopuzzlingtome.Perhapsthatwasbecauseoftheoverallcontextofmylife.Iwasexhaustedallthetime.WhenIwasn’tsellingcoffee,Iwasroastingit.Atthesametime,Iwasgettingdivorcedandtakingcareofmyboy.Itwasallsointense,andalsokindofwrenching.Everythingwassonew.Atthefarmers’market,Iwasplungedintoacommunityofpeopleunlike

anythingI’dexperienced.Ihadfriendsintheclassicalmusicworld,butthatworldtendedtobechillyandformal.Thefoodcommunitywasverywarm,andeveryonewassocuriousaboutwhatIwasdoing.Iwantedtoexplaintomyfriendsintheclassicalmusicworldaboutthesestrange,demonstrativepeoplewhospendsomuchtimeoutsideandwillhugyouforalmostnoreason.Plus,it’ssuchasensualworld,inpartbecauseyou’refeedingpeople.Thatshiftinmylifewasbreathtaking.Iwasdoinghardphysicallabor,andIwassurroundedbypeoplewhoweresoexcitedaboutwhattheyweredoingandwhatIwasdoing.

peoplewhoweresoexcitedaboutwhattheyweredoingandwhatIwasdoing.Ilikehowtangibleeverythingisincoffee.Withtheclarinetyoupractice,

practice,practiceandrehearse,rehearse,rehearse.Whenyouperform,you’retrainingessentiallyinvisiblemusclestomanufactureavibratingcolumnofair.Coffeeistangible.Iamactuallyabletochangethebrainchemistryofmycustomers.Makinganespressoisaperformancethatlastsninetysecondsandthenyou’redone.Yougoontothenextperformance.Youmaygetapplauseoryoumaygetboos,andthenyoumoveon.AfterafewfailingandunsuaveattemptstointerestCaitlininmorethanjust

“hangingout,”ImanagedtoconvinceherthatIneededadatetoaccompanymetoobservethecoffeeserviceatanewwholesaleaccount.TheaccountwastherestaurantAziza,nowaMichelin-starredSanFranciscolegend,butatthetimeitwasarelativelyunknownspotinSanFrancisco’sOuterRichmondDistrict.Thechef/owner,MouradLahlou,wastryingtobreakoutoftheArabianNightsschooltypicalofMoroccanrestaurantsbyemphasizingscrupuloussourcingandmoderncookingtechniques.ThatwasSeptemberof2004,andalthoughtherewasacertainamountofskepticismoverwhatacute,youngbakerwasdoingwithsuchanuptight,oldguy,CaitlinandIhavebeentogethereversince.AfterthingsstartedtakingoffattheFerryPlazaFarmersMarket,Iwantedto

openacafé,butIdidn’thaveenoughmoneytodothat.However,IhadafriendwhoownedabuildinginHayesValley,nearSanFrancisco’sCivicCenter,andhesaidIcouldsetupakioskinthegarageofhisbuilding.IgotapermitandopenedtheBlueBottlekioskinJanuary2005.ThatwasthefirstBlueBottlelocationopeneveryday.Ididn’tknowifitwasgoingtowork.Thekioskwasonadead-endalleythat

smelledlikepee.Iusedcreditcardsandalittlesavingstostartthebusiness.Ishouldhavehadmoremoney,andIshouldhavehadmoreexperience.Ishouldhaveworkedatacaféatleastoncebeforestartingthebusiness!Afterafewmonths,theBlueBottlekioskstartedtogetalotofattention,and

notjustfortheimprobabilityofthelocationbutbecauseweweredoingthingsinwaysthatwereunusualforaSanFranciscocaféatthetime.Nosizes,noflavors,asix-drinkmenu,thefirstPID-controlledLaMarzoccoespressomachineinCalifornia,allshotspulledthickandshort,alldrinkssteamedtoorder,latteartoneverymilkdrink,strictmonitoringofcoffeefreshness,andnoairpots!Allofthedripcoffeewasgroundandbrewedtoorderusingadripbarofourowndesign.Nowit’snotsohardtofindshopslikethisinmanypartsofthecountry(absentthepee-smellingalleyway),butatthetimeitwasunusual.Somehowitworked.Threeyearstothedayafterweopenedthekiosk,we

openedourfirstcaféatSanFrancisco’sMintPlaza.Withinayear,weopened

cafésattheFerryBuildingandtheSanFranciscoMuseumofModernArt,aswellasnewroastingfacilitiesandcafésinOaklandandBrooklyn—tworoastingfacilitiesandfourcoffeeshopsinsideayear.Afterthat,weopenedcafésintheRockefellerCenter,Chelsea,andTribeca,andakioskontheHighLine—allinManhattan.IfI’dhadanybackgroundinthecoffeebusinessorbusinessingeneral,I

neverwouldhavestartedthecompany.Iprobablywouldhavesaid,“It’stoohard.It’snotpractical.There’snowayyoucanmakeaprofitworkingsoslowly.”ButIthinkthefactthatIdidn’thavepreconceivednotionsaboutitmeantIwasfreertotakealeapanddosomethingmorepersonallymeaningful.Ignoranceisbliss.It’slikehowpeoplewhoaren’tnativeEnglishspeakers

havewaysofspeakingthatarecharming,evenifnottechnicallycorrect.Forexample,whenyousellcoffee,you’resupposedtohavesizes—small,medium,andlarge,orperhapstall,grande,venti,andsoon,right?Ihadnosizes,andIrefusedtomakecoffeeinlargebatchesandputitanairpot.Coffeegetsstalewithinminutesofbrewingit.Plus,ifpeopleareconfrontedwithaspigot,theydon’tgettohavetheexperienceofseeinghowthecoffeeisconstructed.Instead,Idecidedthat,atBlueBottle,wewouldgrindyourcoffee,putitina

filter,andslowlypourwateroverit.Wewillconstructyourcoffee.—J.F.

GROW

Forthoseofusraisedwiththeideathatcoffeeisadarkpowderthatcomesinacan,it’seasytoforgetthatcoffeeactuallycomesfromafruitthatgrowsontreesandissubjecttoseasonalityandharvestcycles.Thoughgreencoffee—thetermforunroastedcoffeebeans,whichcomeinvariousshadesofjadegreen—canbeheldmuchlongerthanroastedbeans,coffeeshouldpreferablybeconsumedwithinayearofharvest,thoughthatcanvarydependinguponhowit’spacked,shipped,andstored.Oncewerunoutofacoffeefromaparticularharvest,thatvarietyisgoneuntilthenextharvest.TherearecafésinJapanthatfeaturecoffeesagedtwentyyearsormore,andItalianroasterssometimesagecertainbeansfortheirespresso,butthesearetherareexceptions.Fortunately,coffeeisharvestedalmostyear-roundintheworld’svarious

coffee-producingregions,whichextendfromwell-knownareasinLatinAmericaandAfricatolesser-knownregionsinTaiwanandIndia.HawaiiistheonlyU.S.statewiththerightclimateforcommercialcoffeeproduction,soformostofus,coffeegrowingisafairlydistantandmysteriousthing.Thischapterwillcoverthebasicsofhowandwherecoffeeisgrown,lookingathowfarmersandmillerstransformthejuicyredberriesfromthecoffeetreeintogreencoffeebeans.ThenI’llofferamorein-depthlookatafewofmyfavoritecoffee-growingregions,aswellastwogrowersBlueBottleworkscloselywith:LorieObrainHawaiiandAidaBatlleinElSalvador.I’llalsodiscussissuessuchasorganiccertificationandhowwegetaccesstosomeoftheworld’sbestcoffee,suchastheonlineauctioncalledCupofExcellence.

CoffeeGrowing

Thetwomaintypesofcoffeethatareharvestedforconsumptionarearabica,fromthespeciesCoffeaarabica,androbusta,fromthespeciesCoffeacanephora(formerlyknownasCoffearobusta).Arabica,whichisofmuchhigherqualitythanrobusta,accountsforaround70percentofthecoffeegrownworldwide,andthoseofusinspecialtycoffeeworkalmostexclusivelywithit.AtBlueBottle,theonlyexceptionareafewrobustas—principallycertifiedorganicrobustasfromIndiaandMadagascar—thatweusetoadddepthandanoilybodytooneespressoblend.SoI’llfocusonarabicahere.CoffeaarabicaisnativetoEthiopiaandwasthefirstcoffeetobegrown

commercially.Withinthisspecies,therearethousandsofvarieties—calledvarietalsinthecoffeetrade.TypicaandBourbonaretwoofthemostwidelygrownvarietals.

PLANTINGANDFARMING

Coffeebeansaretheseedsinsidethefruitofthecoffeetree,whichisactuallymoreofashrub.Whileitcangrowquitetall,itisusuallytrimmeddowntoaround6to10feet(1.8to3m).Thetreehasoblongleaves,anditsfruit,calledthecherry,isaboutthesizeofacranberryandhasanouterskinthatisdarkredwhenripe.Underneaththeskinisthepulp,ormucilage,astickysubstancesurroundingthecoffeebeanthatissohighinsugarthatittastessweetifyoubiteintoit(andit’scaffeinated!).Eachcoffeecherryusuallycontainstwocoffeebeans,eachwithaflatside;peaberriesareanaturallyoccurringmutationincoffeecherriesthatcontainonlyoneroundcoffeebeanineachcherry.Inanycase,thebeansarewrappedinparchment,athinpaperylayerthatmustberemovedduringprocessing,andunderthatisthesilverskin,aneventhinnerlayerthatcomesoff,forthemostpart,duringroasting.Theidealgrowingconditionsforarabicacoffeeareaconstantmoderate

temperature,alatitudebetweenapproximately10degreesnorthandsouthoftheequator,andanaltitudeapproximately3,000feetto6,000feet(915mto1,830m),thoughcoffeeisgrownsuccessfullyatloweraltitudes.Thehigherthecoffeeisgrown,themoreslowlyitdevelopsandthedenserthebeansbecome,whichcancreatemoreinterestingflavors.Muchlikewinegrapesgrownunder“stressful”conditionsingreatgrowingregions,thechallengeofaltitudeforcescoffeeplantstofocustheirenergyondevelopingseeds,ratherthanmoreextensivevegetativegrowth,whichwouldbetheplant’sinclinationunderlessstressfulcircumstances.

Dependingonclimateandelevation,coffeemightbegrownundershadetrees,whichcanprotectboththecoffeeplantsandthenativebirdspecies,explaining

whichcanprotectboththecoffeeplantsandthenativebirdspecies,explainingtheoriginofthetermshade-grown.However,coffeeisalsotraditionallygrownwithoutshadeinBrazilandinplaceswithalotofnaturalrainfall,suchasHawaii.Treesstartproducingfruitataroundthreetofouryearsofage.Atthispoint,

they’regivenfertilizerandprunedregularlyforeasierharvestandhigheryields.Irrigationisuncommonincoffeefarming,whichiswhyrainfall,storms,anddroughtcanhaveahugeinfluenceontheworldwidecoffeemarket.

HARVEST

Coffeeisdifferentfromotherfruittreesinthattheplantcontinuestoproduceflowersandnewlyripecherriesthroughoutthefruitingseason,evenonthesamebranch,whichresultsinrepeatedcrops—andrequiresalotofhandlaborforharvest.Insomeregionsthefruitingseasonlastsonlyafewmonths,whileinothers,suchasBrazil—oneofthefewplaceswheremechanicalharvestingiscommon—itlastsforaboutsixmonths.Harvesttiminganddurationalsovarydependingonaltitude.Becausethefruitingseasoncanlastsolong,sometreesorbrancheswillbe

fullofredcherries,whileotherswillhaveamixtureofblossoms,greenorpink(underripe)cherries,darkred(ripe)cherries,andbrown(overripe)cherries.Harvestingonlyripecoffeecherrieswellisaskillanddirectlyrelatestohighercoffeeprices.Soifroasterschoosetobuyexcellent,well-harvestedcoffee,thefarmershaveanincentivetoofferapremiumtothebestpickers.Therefore,carefulharvestingcandirectlyleadtoincreasedstandardsoflivingforbothfarmersandtheirpickers.Yieldsaveragearound2to3pounds(0.9to1.4kg)ofgreencoffeepertree

peryear.Each100pounds(45kg)ofcoffeecherriesresultsinabout20pounds(9.1kg)ofgreencoffee.

Processing

Mostsmallfarmerssendtheircoffeecherriestoamill,wheretheyenterthenextstageoftheirjourney:processing.Inthisimportantstep,thegreencoffeebeansareremovedfromthefruitanddriedtopreparethemfortransport.Inmostcases,theharvestfromsmallfarmsisprocessedwiththecherriesofothernearbyfarms,whereaslargergrowersoftendotheirownprocessing.However,theincreaseddemandforsingle-originmicrolotcoffeesmeansthatsomesmallfarmsdotheirownprocessingorstrictlysupervisetheprocessingoftheirbeans,keepingthemseparatefromthoseofotherfarms(formoreonthis,seetheprofilesofLorieObraandAidaBatlle).Thetwomainprocessingstylesusedinthecoffeeindustryarewashed,also

calledwet,andnatural,alsocalleddry.Washedbeansarewashedorsoakedinwatertoremovetheouterpulpbeforedrying,whereasnaturalprocessingmeansthebeansremaininthecherryfordrying.Withinthosetwobasiccategories,therearemanyvariations.Thestyleofprocessingthat’schosenvariesaccordingtolocaltraditionand

hasalottodowithaccesstowater.Forexample,naturalprocessingistraditionalintheHararregionofEthiopia,wherewaterisscarce.Ontheflipside,naturalprocessingdoesn’tworkwellinrainyclimatesbecauseitrequiresalongdryingperiod.Farmerswhopayalotofattentiontoprocessingalsovarytheirmethodsdependingonwhatworksbestwithspecificvarietiesandwhattheircustomerswant.

WASHEDCOFFEE

Washing,orwetprocessing,resultsincoffeeswithhigheracidityandmoreconsistency,andtheseareamongthereasonswhythisisthemostcommonprocessingmethod.Thebasicprocessgoeslikethis:thecherriesaresentthroughapulpingmachine,whichremovestheouterskin,leavingthestickymucilage,orpulp,stillclingingtothebeans.Thebeansarethensoakedinwater,andoftengentlyagitatedduringthisstage.Theyarethenallowedtofermentforaperiodoftimethatrangesfromhourstoadayortwo,duringwhichtimethepulpfallsoff.(Notethatallfermentationanddryingtimesvarygreatlydependingonthetypeofequipmentusedandtheweather,sotheseareallapproximations.)Afterfermentation,thebeansarerinsedandwashedandthenallowedtodry,

eitherinthesunonpatiosorraisedbeds,orinamechanicaldryer,usuallyforaperiodoffourtoeightdays,dependingonsunlightandclimate.Kenya-styleprocessingissimilartowetprocessing,withalonger

fermentationperiod—oftenwithanadditionalrinsingandsoakingperiodthatresultsincoffeeswithhighacidityandelegance.Thecherriesarepulpedandthenfermentedforeighttosixteenhours.Next,thebeansarewashed,thensoakedincleanwater,usuallyforsixtotwelvehours,butsometimesaslongasforty-eighthours.

NATURALCOFFEE

Naturalprocessing,ordryprocessing,istheoriginalwayofprocessingcoffee.Inthismethod,coffeecherriesaredriedwholeonraisedbeds,mats,orpatios.SomefarmsinBrazilletthecoffeecherriesdryonthetreeandthenharvestthemwhentheyresemblesmallprunes.Becausethebeansremaininsidethefruitasitdries,thisresultsinaverynoticeabledifferenceinaromaandflavor.Forexample,thisishowEthiopiannaturalcoffeesdevelopthefruityflavorsandblueberryscentstheyareknownfor.Naturalprocessingalsoresultsincoffeewithmorebodyandlessacidity.Thismethoddoesnotcomewithoutrisks.Ifthebeansrestinthewetfruitfor

toolong,thefruitwillfermentandgetmoldyorimpartasour,yeastytastetothecoffee,sofrequentrakingisnecessaryduringthedryingperiod,whichusuallylastsaroundthreeweeks.Thebeansaretheneitherstoredintheirskinsforaperiodofmonthsorhulledrightawayinamachineorbyhandtoremovethedriedouterskinandtheinnerparchment.Naturalcoffeeisasomewhatcontroversialtopicintoday’scoffeeworld.

Somecoffeeprofessionalsclaimthatnaturalprocessingiswrongbecauseitallowsreabsorptionofsomeofthecoffeefruitintothecoffeeseed,creatingacharacteristicfruitbombflavorprofilethatcaneitherhidesubtlefaultsorobscuresubtlevirtues.Personally,I’vehadbothstunninglyrefineddry-processedcoffeesandlurid,bombastic,overpoweringdry-processedcoffees,andIwouldbeloathtoliveinaworldwherecoffeescoldslimitedouraccesstothem.

PULPEDNATURALCOFFEE

PopularinBrazil,pulpednaturalprocessingisacrossbetweenwetanddryprocessing.Itisalsoknownashoneyprocessing,thewordhoneyreferringtothesweetpulp.Asinwetprocessing,thecherriesarepulped,removingtheouterskinbutleavingthemucilageattachedtothebeans.Buttheninsteadofsoaking,thebeansarespreadonlargetablestodryforanywherefromfivedaystotwoweeks,withthemucilagestillsurroundingthem.Theresultingcoffeesaremoreconsistentinqualitythandry-processedcoffeesandtendtohavesimilarcharacteristics,suchasalotofbodyandlowacidity.However,theydon’tdevelopvividfruitnotesofdry-processedcoffees.

WETHULLING

WethullingisaversionofpulpednaturalprocessingusedwidelyusedinSumatra,whereitiscalledgilingbasah.Itresultsincoffeeswithheavybodyandlowacidity.Theprocessstartslikepulpednaturalprocessing,exceptthecoffeeisonlydriedforaboutadaywiththemucilageattached.Next,thebeansarewashed,partiallydriedagain,andthenhulledtoremovetheparchmentbeforethebeansfinishdrying.

FINALSTEPS

Afterthefirstphaseofprocessing,usingoneoftheabovemethods,whichissomewhatconfusinglycalledwetmillingasawhole,thecoffeebeansareusuallystoredforonetothreemonthstohelpbalanceouttheirmoisturelevels.Thentheyenteraphasecalleddrymilling,whentheparchmentisremovedandtheyaresortedbysize.Thisservestwofunctions:first,roasterslikecoffeesofevensizeanddensitybecausethismakesroastingeasier.Second,largerbeansoftenfetchapremiumbecausethecoffeeisthoughttohavebeenharvestedfromripercherriesandmightcupbetter.Aftersorting,storagetimecanvary,butthecoffeebeansshouldideallyarrivetocustomerswithinoneyearofharvest,preferablysooner.

INDEFENSEOFBLENDS

Ablendisacombinationofcoffeesfromdifferentcountriesorregions,whereasasingle-origincoffeeisfromonecountry,oneregion,onefarm,orevenonepartofafarm.Thenotionofwhichismoredesirable—ablendorasingle-origincoffee—hasseesawedthroughoutthehistoryofcoffee.Rightnowthesingle-originshaveit.Butfocusingonlyonrarifiedsingle-origincoffeesislikebeingatarestaurantwithonlyGrandCruBurgundiesonthewinelist.Agoodrestaurant’swinelistincludesheartyhousereds,approachablewhites,anddifferenttypesofwinesatdifferentpricepoints.Sometimespeoplewantsomethingsimple,consistent,anddelicious.That’swhatagoodcoffeeblendcando.Themainreasonweblendistoachievea

consistentlydeliciousflavor.ThefirstblendwasprobablyMocha-Java,inwhichawiney,brightcoffeefromYemen(whichatthetimeshippedfromtheRedSeaportofAl-Makha,orMocha)wasaddedtotheheavy,thickcoffeesbeingshippedoutofDutchcoffeeholdingsinJava.Ascommercialcoffeeroasterscameonthescene,theirdesiretocreateproprietaryblendsthatwouldtastethesamethroughouttheyearledtomorefocusonblendsthanontheoriginsofthegreencoffeeitself.Thisallowedcoffeecompaniesto“cheat”andincreasetheirmarginsbysneakingincheaper,lesser-qualitycoffeesandhopingtocoverthemupwithcarefulblending.Aslargecompaniesproducingcommodity-gradecannedcoffeeusedcheaper

commodity-gradecannedcoffeeusedcheaperandcheaperrawmaterials,thedegradationinqualitysoonbecameevident.WhenPeet’scameonthesceneinthelate1960s,commercialblendshadsunktosuchanadirofqualitythatPeet’sblends,madefromcarefullyselectedhigh-qualitycoffeechosentohaveenoughaciditytowithstandverydarkroasting,wererevelatory.Coffeeblendingforespressohasbeena

fixtureintheItalianmarketsincetheintroductionoftheespressomachine.Whetheroutofeconomicconstraintsorthedesireforasimple,delicious,mutedflavorprofile,Italiancoffeecompanieshavebeenputtingtimeandenergyintothecarefuldevelopmentandmaintenanceoftheirespressoblendsfordecades.Espressocoffeeshavebeenblendsfromtheirinception,andforgoodreason.AsmentionedinthesectiononBrazil,espressoreallytookoffinItalyafterWorldWarIIduetothescarcityofhigh-qualitygreencoffee.Coffeeroasterscombinedlower-qualitybeans,includingrobustasfromAfrica,withslightlybetter-qualitycoffeesfromBrazil.Bothcoffeeshadlacklusteracidity,reasonablythickbody,andalotofpotentiallyoffflavors,andifmadelikeamodernpourover,mightyieldaprettyfrighteningcup.However,espressoextractiontendstoincreasetheperceptionofacidityandbodyandmutefunkyqualities.SooneofthereasonsespressoextractionevolvedisthatItaliansfiguredouthowtousemodestingredientstomakesomethingdelicious,thesamewaytheyreinventedbasiccornmealintopolentaand,whentheyhadnochocolate,createdgiandujausingsugar,cocoapowder,andhazelnuts.AtBlueBottle,weofferseveralespresso

AtBlueBottle,weofferseveralespressoblendsandbrewedcoffeeblendsthathighlightdiverseflavors,andallareextremelypopular.Weputforethoughtandenergyintomaintainingaconsistentflavorwithexcellentcoffee,evenastheavailabilityofspecificbeanschangesseasonally.Althoughwearethrilledwiththedazzlingarrayofvibrantsingle-origincoffeeswesource,werealizethatmanyofourcustomercometousfordelicious,comfortingconsistency,andourblendsachievepreciselythat.Thequestioneveryoneworkingincoffeeis

askingtodayishowwewantourcoffeetotaste.Wehaveunparalleledoptionsintermsofgreencoffeeandanunprecedentedcustomerbase.Dowewantsomethingtotasteasconsistentaspossiblefromweektoweekandyeartoyear,orsomethingthat’sconstantlydifferent?Sometimespeoplecomeintoourshops,godhelpthem,beforethey’vehadcoffee.Sometimesthey’reseekingreassurance.Theydon’twantbellpeppernotesonemorningandevocationsofwatermelonJollyRancherthenext.Theywantsomethingthat’sgoingtobedeliciousandsuittheirpreferenceswhenevertheybuyit.Thentherearethepeoplewhowantnovelty,excitement,andsurprises;theyaretheoneswhotendtobedrawntosingle-origins.Whatcangetlostinthediscussionisthat

maintainingablendyearafteryearisexpensiveandrequiresalotofforethoughtandskill.Youhavetomakebuyingdecisionssixorsevenmonthsinadvance—andthenyouhavetowritechecksbasedonwhatyouthinkyou’regoingtouseinablend.Youhavetoberesourcefulinmanagingthe

havetoberesourcefulinmanagingthealchemyasdifferentcoffeesinteractindifferentways.Withsingle-origincoffees,thesituationismuchmorestraightforward:whenyourunout,youbuysomethingelse.Thefocusonsingle-originsisvaluableand

timely.Thesedayswehavealotmoreaccesstoqualitylotsofsingle-origincoffeesthatshouldbeshowcasedontheirown.Therearesomecoffeesthataresodistinct,sobrilliant,andsoinspiringthattheyabsolutelyneedtodisplaytheirqualitiesunmediatedbytheinfluenceofothercoffees.Single-origincoffeesalsoallowtheeffortsofthefarmertobebetternotedandrewarded.Allofthatsaid,thereisdefinitelyaplaceforblending:tomakecoffeedrinkershappybygivingthemaspecific,repeatableexperiencetailoredforaparticularandenduringcontext.

GettingtoKnowCoffeefromThreeFavoriteRegions

Itrytoavoidgeneralizingaboutcoffee.Butthenagain,let’sgeneralize.Beansfromparticularplacesaresoughtafterbecauseofcertaincharacteristicstheyareknownfor.Soratherthanexhaustivelycoveringallofthecoffee-producingregionsaroundtheglobe,let’sfocusonthreeofmyfavoritecoffee-growingcountries.

ETHIOPIA

Ethiopiaisthebirthplaceofcoffee.Infact,theEnglishtermcoffeebeanprobablycomesfromtheEthiopianwordbun,forcoffee,andKaffa,aregionwherethearabicabeanisanativeplant.Ethiopia,whichrankssixthinproductionamongcoffee-growingnations,isthesourceofsomeofthemostmemorablecoffeesI’vehad.SomeofEthiopia’sbest-knowncoffeesarenamedfortheregiontheycomefrom,suchasYirgacheffeinSidamo,whichgetsitsdistinctivefloralnotesfromthecoffeevarietals,terroir,andtraditionalwetprocessing,andHarrar,whichisdryprocessedandtendstohavedistinctive,brightfruitflavors.BecauseEthiopiaiswherecoffeeoriginated,ithasmoreindigenouscoffee

varietalsthananyothernation.WhereastherestoftheworldgrowsahandfulofvarietalsoriginallysmuggledoutofEthiopiaandnearbycountries,Ethiopiahasoveronethousand.Imagineiftherewereonethousandvarietiesoftomatoesatthefarmers’market!Becauseofthehugevariety,there’salwaysafascinatingnewEthiopiancoffeetotry,somethingincredibleyou’venevertastedbefore.Ethiopiahasarapidlygrowinglocalmarketforitscoffee;abouthalfofthe

coffeegrowninEthiopiaisconsumedinEthiopia.Aninternalmarketbuildstheeconomicsofthecoffeeindustryinthatcountry.AsmorepeopleinEthiopiadrinkEthiopiancoffee,thenation’scoffeefarmerswillbenefit,notjustbecauseofincreaseddemand,butalsobecausetheyreceivemoredirectfeedbackaboutquality.Meanwhile,manymorevarietiesofcoffeearenowbeingexportedfrom

Ethiopia’svariouscoffee-growingregions.Somearegreat,andsomenotsogreat,soit’smuchmoredifficulttogeneralizeabouttasteprofilesfromspecificregionsthanitusedtobe.Thebigorganicco-opsproducesomanydifferentlots,andtheonlywaytogetcoffeethatmeetsBlueBottle’sstandardsistoconstantlydocuppings,orevaluativetastings,ofthecurrentofferings.(Fordetailsoncupping,seeCuppingatHome.)BlueBottlebuysalotofcoffeefromtheYirgachefferegion,bothdryandwetprocessed.Iadorethesewet-processedcoffeeswhenthey’reattheirbest;theyaredelicateandfloral,withanunderlyingbodyandsweetnesssimilartoMoscatod’Asti,anItaliansparklingwhitewine.WithsomanydazzlingcoffeescomingoutofEthiopia,andincreasing

investmentinidentifyinggreatvarietals,IbelieveweareonlystartingtoseehowwonderfulthepossibilitiesofEthiopiancoffeeare.Andontopofallofthis,Ethiopia’sorganiccertificationoptionsandcoffeeprocessinginfrastructureare

Ethiopia’sorganiccertificationoptionsandcoffeeprocessinginfrastructureareamongthebestinthecoffee-growingworld.

ETHIOPIAN CUP CHARACTERISTICS There’s a lot of dry processing inEthiopian,whichyieldstheclassicblueberryprofile,bothinnoseandinthecup,thatEthiopiancoffeesareknownfor.Eventhewet-processedcoffeescanhaveamazing, delicate flavors, such as jasmine and stone fruit,with baking spices.However,theflavorofthesewet-processedcoffeesismoresubtle,andit’seasiertoroastoutsomeofthemoredelicatequalities.VARIETALS:BecauseofthehugenumberofcoffeevarietalsinEthiopia,the

countryhasanumericalsysteminwhichthetypeofbeanisreferredtobyanumber,ratherthananameofthevarietal,asisthecaseinothercountries.However,theremaybeseveralvarietalspresentinanygivenbagofEthiopiancoffee,evenonelabeledsingle-origin.

TALKINGABOUTACIDITY

Thewordacidityisawedgethatcanseparatecoffeeprofessionalsfromtheircustomers.Ascoffeeprofessionals,weneedtousethiswordalot,butwetrytouseitinternally.Whencustomershearorusethatword,it’stypicallyasapejorative.Theyhearacidityandthink,“Mytummyhurts!”Theythinkaboutsharp,unpleasantflavorsthatactuallyaren’tdirectlyrelatedtothepHlevelofthecoffee;rather,they’rerelatedtocompoundsthatdevelopasaresultofpoorbrewing,holdingcoffeeforalongtime,orcarelessroastingofpoor-qualitygreencoffee.AtBlueBottle,whenwespeakto

customersaboutacidity,wetrytousewordslikebright,snappy,orlively.Technically,whencoffeeprofessionalsusethewordacidity,wearen’ttalkingaboutthepHlevel,butthepresenceofparticularacidsthatarethesameasthoseinlemons,berries,vinegars,andother“lively”foods.Allofthatsaid,coffeeprofessionalsgenerallyreverethesecompoundsmorethanmostofourcustomersdo,sowehavetobecarefulthatwedon’tletaciditybecometheprimarydriverinourdecisiontobuyacoffee.

BRAZIL

Astheworld’slargestcoffeeproducer,Brazilisresponsibleforalotofthestuffthatcomesincans;it’salsohadahugeroleintheevolutionofespresso,traditionallyahumbleblendofBrazilianbeans.ButinourbuyingtripstoBrazil,weareseeinganewgenerationoffarmers,oftensecond-orthird-generationfarmers,whoarestudyingcoffeeroastingandserviceinEuropeandtheUnitedStates,cuppingintensively,andproducinghigh-qualitycoffeesthatwillbewidelysoughtoutasvibrantanddistinctivesingle-origincoffees,notjustbeansthatserveasapleasantbaseinanespressoblend.CoffeewasfirstplantedinBrazilintheeighteenthcentury,andcommercial

cultivationbeganinthe1800saroundSãoPaulo.Earlyplantationsreliedonslavelaborandthenimmigrant(almost-slave)laborafterslaverywasofficiallyoutlawed.TherapidgrowthofBraziliancoffeefarminginthenineteenthcentury,whichcausedmassivedeforestation,alsoledtoBrazil’sneardominationofthemarket.Thecountryproduced80percentoftheworld’scoffeeforatimeintheearly1900s,anumberthathassincefallentoaround30percent.CoffeeplayedahugeroleintheindustrializationofBrazil.SomuchofthestyleandcharacterofBraziliancoffeeisaboutitsprocessing

—thepulpednaturalmethodthat’snativetoBrazil.Becauseofthelargescaleofproduction,reliableweather,andlackofshadecanopy,intheearlydaysmostBraziliancoffeewasdryprocessed,andthereisstillalotofdryprocessinginBrazil.ButpulpednaturalprocessinghasbeenanimportantpartofBrazil’srelationshipwithespresso,whichcameintofashioninItalyinthepostwaryears,whenallthecountryhadaccesstowaslow-gradedry-processedBraziliancoffeeandrubbery-tastingrobustafromNorthAfrica.Thepulpednaturalprocessturnedouttobeapreferableformofprocessingbecauseittendstocreateaheavierbodyandtomuteacidity,addingasweetnessandrefinementtypicallynotpresentindry-processedBraziliancoffees.Inthe1980s,spurredonbylargecompanieslikeIlly,evenmorecoffeefarmsbegantousepulpednaturalprocessingtogetamoreconsistentproductgearedtowardespressoextraction.WhentheCupofExcellence(COE)auctionlaunchedinBrazilin1999,it

helpedspurasubcultureofattentiontothehighest-qualitycoffee.Overthelastdecade,COEhasrewardedfarmersfordiligentlycuppingandseparatingthebestcoffeesintomicrolotstogetthebestprices.Ameticulousdomesticcafécultureisstillinitsinfancythere,andthevastmajorityofthebetter-qualitybeansarestillexported.However,sinceBrazil’seconomyisrapidlygrowing,moreofthe

bestBraziliancoffeeisconsumedinternally.Interestingly,itisillegaltoimportnon-BraziliancoffeeintoBrazil,sotherangeofcoffeestheincreasinglyaffluentinternalmarketcanenjoyislimitedbylaw.Itremainstobeseenhowthatwillaffectthegrowthofhigh-endcafésinBrazil.CertifiedorganicfarmingisstillveryrareforBraziliancoffee.Because

almostalloftheBraziliancoffeeBlueBottlebuysisorganic,wetendtodealwithatinysubsetoffarmsthatwe’vegrowntoappreciateovertheyears.

BRAZILIAN CUP CHARACTERISTICS The majority of Brazilian coffee isgrownat1,800to4,000feet(550to1,220m).Asaresult,Braziliancoffeetendstohaveasofter,moremutedflavor than thosegrownathigherelevations,andthis quality is heightened by natural and pulped natural processing. It has alovely, round,gentlequality and is rarely strident. It has sweetness—molassesand sugary tones—without many fruity notes. Good Brazilian coffee iscomforting,likable,andseldompolarizing.VARIETALS:Inadditiontoclassicvarietals,suchasBourbonandTypica,

BrazilianhybridsincludeIcatu,whichtendstohavelowacidityandchocolateflavors;MundoNovo,whichissweetandhashighyields;andCatuaí,whichhasabrighterflavor.

THELEGACYOFSUMATRA

OwingtotheinfluenceofPeet’sCoffee,alotofcoffeedrinkers,especiallyinNorthernCalifornia,adorewoody,peatycoffeesfromIndonesiaandparticularlyfromSumatra.EarlyoninestablishingBlueBottle,Idecidedtonotofferasingle-originSumatrancoffeebecauseIrealizedthatnoonewouldbuyanythingelse!Somuchofthecupcharactercomesoutoftheprocessingthatitishardtofindlotsthathaveenoughcharactertoofferassingle-origincoffees.Instead,atBlueBottlewelovethedeep

cello-sectionnotesofcleanSumatrancoffeesandrelyonthemtoprovidethedepththatwelikeinourespressoandbrewedcoffeeblends.However,forthelastfewyears,we’vebeenroastingsingle-origincoffeesfromaprojectintheTorajaregionofSumatra’snearbyneighborSulawesi.Thesecoffeesarefullywashedandhavesomuchbrightnessandsomuchdepththattheyoverpoweradelicatelycalibratedblend.Plus,theyreallyneedtostandontheirowntobeappreciated.

ELSALVADOR

InElSalvador,coffeegrowinghasaviolenthistorythatbeganinthelatenineteenthcentury,whenforeignerstookoverlandsfromnativepeoples.DuringtheSalvadoranCivilWar,from1980to1992,theguerrillamovementwasdriveninpartbytheplightofexploitedfarmworkers.Alotwaslostduringthewar,butsomepeopletheorizethatoneresultoftheturmoilwaspreservationofmoreoftheoldcoffeevarietalsthatmightotherwisehavevanished.Becausethewarwentonfortwelveyears,farmsdidn’thaveachancetomodernize,sotheycontinuedtogrowmanyoftheoldvarietals.OneofthequalitiesthatkeepsmecomingbacktogreatcoffeefromEl

Salvadorissubstantialbodythatdoesn’tovershadowthecomplexflavors.IlovethejuxtapositionofdensityandvitalityinthebestSalvadorancoffees.Asinmostcoffee-growingregions,themajorityofthecoffeefarmsinEl

Salvadorareatlowerelevationsandproducecommodity-gradecoffee.However,ElSalvadordoeshavereasonablygoodinfrastructureathighelevations,decentaccesstothedeepwaterPacificportofAcajutla,greatmicroclimates,andfarmersdedicatedtopreservingthedeliciousbutlower-yieldBourbonandPacasvarietals.Thesefactorscometogethertocreatesomeofmyfavoritecoffees.

EL SALVADORAN CUP CHARACTERISTICS What I love about greatcoffeesfromElSalvador is theway theircomplexityandsweetness ismeshedwithaheavy,silkybody.BlueBottleisluckytobeabletoobtainasmallamountofabeautifulcoffee

fromElMajahual,intheLosNaranjosregioninElSalvador,managedbyAidaBatlle.Ittendstohavehasnotesofbrownsugarandsometimesplum,butter,andtoffee—acomplexcupthat’stangyandhasalongmolassesfinish.Whenwe’reatthefarmattherighttime,wecanoftengetElMajahualbeansinasmanyasfourdifferentprocessingtypes:washed,dried,pulpednatural,andthevariationofthewet-hullingprocessAidacalls“Sumalvador.”VARIETALS:KeyvarietalsgrowninElSalvadorareBourbon,Typica,and

Pacas.PacasisaBourbonmutationthathasabrightflavorwithfloralcharacteristicsandaheavybody.

FarmerProfile:LorieObra,Hawaii

Sincesomuchoftheworld’scoffeeisgrowninfarawaycountries,atBlueBottlewe’vebeenexcitedtohavethechancetoworkwithacoffeegrowerinourownbackyard,sotospeak.LorieObraofRusty’sHawaiian,a12-acre(4.9-hectare)farmontheBigIsland’ssouthernedge,hasexperimentedextensivelywithprocessingtoproducesometrulyastonishingresults.IvisitedRusty’sinthepastandrecentlydecidedtogobacktolearnmoreaboutthefarm’sgrowingandprocessingmethods.Rusty’sislocatedontheslopesoftheMaunaLoavolcanointheBigIsland’s

Ka`uDistrict,about60miles(97km)fromtheKonacoffeeregion.Atabout2,000feet(610m),thefarmisatarelativelyhighelevationbyHawaiianstandards.LorieispartofagroupofKa`ucoffeegrowerswhoarebuildingtheregion’s

reputation.Sheandherlatehusband,Rusty,foundedthefarmin1999afterrelocatingfromNewJersey,wheretheyhadworkedasamedicaltechnologistandachemist.TheywantedtobenearRusty’sparents,whousedtoworkforasugarplantationthatdominatedtheareauntilitclosedin1996.LoriesaidtheyoriginallythoughttheymightopenaDunkin’Donutsfranchiseorabedandbreakfast—untiltheyvisitedafriend’snewcoffeefarm,partofaninitiativetoconvertabandonedsugarfieldstocoffeegrowing.Asshereports,“Wesawthefarmandthetreesloadedwithred-ripecherries.Withoutevensayinganythingtoeachother,weknewdeepinourmindsandinourheartsthatthiswaswhatweweregoingtodo.”ThecouplesecuredtheirleaseonalotonthesouthernslopeofMaunaLoa,

surroundedbymountainsandwildsugarcaneandwithawideviewsouthtowardthePacific.UsingseedlingsdonatedfromfamilyfriendsinKonaandKa`u,andmostlyvolunteerlabor,theyplantedseventhousandtreesover9acres(3.6hectares).SincetheclosestmillwasinKona,theydecidedtodotheprocessingthemselves,whichmeantbuyingspecialtyequipment,includingapulper,ahuller,andevenasmallroaster.Becausebothhadabackgroundinscienceandhadworkedinlaboratories,theywereawareofallofthevariablesthatmightaffectqualityandwantedtocontroleverything.Soon,Rustywasapproachedbyothernewcoffeefarmerstoheadupthe

growingKa`uCoffeeGrowersCooperative.GrowerWilliamTabiosconfidedtoRustythathedidn’tthinkhecouldmakeitasafarmer.Rustyassuredhimthatgoodtimeswereahead.Sureenough,in2007theSpecialtyCoffeeAssociation

ofAmericarankedTabios’sbeanssixth-bestintheworld,andheandotherKa`ugrowers,includingLorie,havecontinuedtoreceivethattypeofrecognition.Unfortunately,Rustydidn’tlivetoseetheprogressofthecooperativeorhis

ownfarm.Diagnosedwithcancer,heurgedLorietogetridofthefarmbecausehethoughtitwouldbetoohardforhertocarryonbyherself.Whenhediedin2006,shewasn’tabletofindsomeonetotakeoverthefarm’slease,andshemanagedtokeeptheoperationgoing.

In2008,theowneroftheirlandbroughtinseveralcoffeeexpertstomeetwiththeKa`ugrowers,includingroastmasterR.MiguelMeza,ofParadiseCoffeeRoastersinRamsey,Minnesota.MiguelbecameLorie’smentor,andshestartedsendinggreencoffeesamplestohimbackinMinnesota,representingdifferentprocessingtimes,downtothenumberofhoursoffermentation.Soonthereafter,MiguelmovedtoHawaiitoworkforHulaDaddyKona

CoffeeinKonaandbeganvisitingLorieontheweekends,helpingheridentifyhertreesandconductmoreexperimentsandteachingherhowtocup.Demandforhercoffeeincreased,andLoriewasstilldoingeverything,frompickingtoshipping.Fortunately,herdaughter,JoanObra,andson-in-law,RalphGaston,bothjournalists,decidedtomoveoutfromCaliforniatohelpherwiththefarm.MiguelalsorelocatedtoKa`u,andsoonPeteLicata,aU.S.baristachampion,soonjoinedthem.InadditiontorunningRusty’s,theyalsoarepartnersinIslaCoffee,acompanythatdevelopscustomlotsofcoffeebyworkingwithfarmersinHawaii,Taiwan,andelsewhere.Rusty’shaswonnumeroushonorsthathavehelpedLoriesellalotmore

coffee,andshethinksthattheywouldmakeRustyhappy.“HisvisionwastobringKa`ucoffeeupalongsideothergreatcoffeesoftheworld,”saidLorie,whohasabracelettattoowithRusty’snamesetinsidealeiofcoffeeleavesandcherries.“IwanttobeapartofthisKa`ucoffeerevolutionandbringKa`ucoffeeupthere.Ihavestrivedveryhardtoattainthat.”Hawaiiancoffeeisrelativelyexpensive,primarilybecauselaborcostsarehigh

Hawaiiancoffeeisrelativelyexpensive,primarilybecauselaborcostsarehighcomparedtoelsewhereintheworld.Butwhenyouseethehigh-qualityproductionatRusty’s,thecostseemsreasonable.Lorietellsherpickerstoselectonlythecherrieswithfullcolor,similartoselectingthebeststrawberriesatthefarmers’market.Shedoesn’twantthosethataregreen,halfripe,orbrowns(whichmeansoverripe).OnepersonworkingtoLorie’sstandardscanpickabout12pounds(5.5kg)of

ripecherriesperhour,enoughtoproduceabout2pounds(0.9kg)offinishedroastedcoffee.Ontopofthat,addtheseveralhoursofprocessingthatgoesintoeachbatch.“Hawaiiancoffeeisnotoverpriced,”saysMiguel.“It’sjusttherestofthe

world’scoffeeisundervalued.”EachyearRusty’sproducesabout1pound(0.45kg)ofgreencoffeefrom

eachofitsroughlysixthousandtrees(theyhavethinnedtheorchardsincetheinitialplanting).Mostofthefarmisdevotedtofourvarietals:GuatemalaTypica,YellowCaturra,RedCaturra,andRedBourbon.HarvestintheirpartofKa`u,calledCloudRest,usuallylastsfromNovembertoMay,butLoriecanpurchasefreshcoffeecherriesfromotherKa`ugrowersmostoftherestoftheyear,dependingontheirelevation.Loriepersonallyprocessesallofthecherries—fromherownfarmorotherfarms—usinghermethodsandhighstandards.Afterthecherriesarepicked,theygotoLorie’shouseinPahala,asmalltown

abouttenminutesdownthemountainfromthefarm,forprocessing.Processingalwaysbeginsonthesamedayasharvest,whichmeansLorie—andoftenMiguel,Pete,Joan,andRalph—tendtoworklateforeighttotenmonthsoftheyear.Lorievariesherprocessingmethodsdependingonthevarietal,weather,and

customerdemand.Thefirststepshetakesforanyprocessingmethodisto“float”thecherries,whichmeanstoimmersetheminwater,acommonpracticeintheindustry.Anycherriesthatfloattothetopareremovedbecausetheycontainlow-densitybeansthatdidn’tdevelopwellandwilllackflavorandsweetness.Then,unlikemanyofhercompetitors,Lorieandtherestofthecrewmeticulouslysortthroughtheremainingcherriestodiscardanythatareoverripeorunderripe,orthatsimplyaren’ttheperfectshadeoffullredoryellow.Aftersorting,Loriebeginsprocessing.

PROCESSING

Likemostpeopleinthecoffeetrade,Lorieuseswetprocessingmostoften.Tobegin,shepoursthecherriesintoherpulperandusesagardenhosetospraywaterthroughthemachine.Themachineremovestheskinfromthecherries,spittingoutcoffeebeanscoveredinstickypulp.Shetransferstheslippery,slimybeansintobucketsfilledwithcoldwaterandleavesthemtofermentovernight.Aftermuchtrialanderror,shehasfoundthatabouteighttotenhoursoffermentationistherightamountoftimeforhercoffee;italsogivesheralittletimetosleep.Inthemorning,thebeanssitinathickbrownishsoup.Usingapoolpump,

Loriesucksouttheliquidandrinsesthebeanswithfreshwater.Atthisstage,thepulphasseparatedandthebeans,whichhaveagritty,sandpaperyfeel,arespreadonwaist-highwiredryingrackssetuparoundLorie’syard,eachwithacorrugatedvinylcoverthatcanbedeployedwhenitrains.Thebeansdryinthesunforfivetoeightdays.Fordry,ornatural,processing,Loriespreadsthecherriesonthedryingracks

immediatelyaftersortingandletsthemdryuntiltheyreachamoisturelevelof10to11percent;typicallythreeweeks.Theamountoftimedependsontheweather.Topreventmoldandunwantedfermentation,Lorierakesthecherriesfrequentlyduringdrying.Duringthethirdthroughfifthday,whentheskinshaveturnedleatheryandarenolongerfragile,sherakesthecherriesasoftenasonceperhour.Forpulpednaturalprocessing,afterthecherrieshavebeenpulped,theyare

spreadontherackstodry.Duringthefirstdaytheymustberakedeverytwentyminutesforevendryingandtopreventmoldfromdeveloping.Joanoftensetsupherlaptopinthebackyardsoshecanworkbetweenrakings.Afterthat,theyneedtoberakedonlytwiceperday,andthefulldryingperiodisaboutfivetotendays,dependingontheweather.

FINALSTEPS

Afterwet,dry,orpulpednaturalprocessing,thebeansareplacedinspecialbagsinashed.Wet-processedandpulpednaturalbeansarestoredforthreemonths,anddry-processedbeansarestoredforfourtofivemonths.AsLoriesays,“Mycoffeesneedtheirbeautysleep.”Miguelexplainsthatthisextrasteppreventsthecoffeefromhavingagrassy,astringentflavor.Inallcases,thegoalistohavethebeansroastedwithinninemonthsof

picking.Whenthebeansarereadytoship,theygothroughthehullingmachine,whichremovestheparchment,andthentheyaresortedtoremovesmallanddefectivebeans.Aftersorting,thegreencoffeeisinspectedandcertifiedbytheHawaiiDepartmentofAgricultureandshippedorflowntocustomers.OnebigadvantageforcustomersintheUnitedStatesisthatRusty’sshipmentsdon’thavetogothroughcustoms,unlikecoffeefromotherpartsoftheworld,andthisgreatlyspeedsdelivery.

THECUPOFEXCELLENCE

Whenyoulookatthebigshiftthathashappenedinthecoffeeworldoverthepastdecade,theCupofExcellence(COE)hasbeenaninfluentialpartofit.Nowtheworld’smostprestigiousinternationalcoffeeauction,itwascreatedin1999whenagroupofroasterswantedtoimproveaccesstogreatcoffeefrompreviouslyunknowngrowers.TheCOEhasbeeninstrumentalinbuilding

worldwideawarenessofthedistinctivenessofsingle-origincoffees.Thehighpricesevenforthelower-placinglots(whichareoftenstillbeautifulandrarefiedcoffees)allowcoffeefarmerstoseethatthereisamarketforqualitycoffee.Asopposedtocharity-basedprograms,theCOEisaquality-basedprogramwheretherewardsaregreaterinaccordancewiththecaliberofthecoffee.Thevastmajorityofcoffeegrowersaround

theworldbringtheircoffeetoacentralmillforprocessing,whereitgetsmixedwithothercoffeesfromthesameregion.WithCOE,whichaimstofindthebestcoffeesfromspecificmembercountriesinannualcompetitions,anyfarmercanenterhisorhercoffeebeans,nomatterhowsmalltheoperation.SincethefirstcompetitioninBrazil,it’sincreasedtoelevencountries,mostlyinCentralandSouthAmerica.Afterfarmerssendintheirsamplesfor

considerationinaCOEcompetition,thecoffeesarecuppedfiveorsixtimes,firstbyanationaljurycomposedofresidentsofthecountry,thenbyaninternationaljuryofmostlycoffeeroasters.Thewinnersare

mostlycoffeeroasters.Thewinnersareranked,withthefirstthroughthirdgettingthemostattention,andthenallofthecoffeesareplacedinanonlineauction.Interestedbiddersreceivesamplesofgreencoffeebeforetheauction.BlueBottleboughtitsfirstCOElotin

2006,theyearwebeganbidding.WenowusuallybidinfourtosixCOEauctionsayearandhopetogetatleastonelotinmostofthem.Lotsizesvaryfromyeartoyearandcountrytocountry,butoftenthelotsarequitesmall—around2,000pounds(900kg).Whenwecupthesampleswe’reconsideringforbidding,welistthecoffeesbyfarmnameandnotnumericalranking,sowedon’tknowhowtheyplacedinthecompetition.Moreoftenthannot,thereareoneortwocoffeesthatweabsolutelyadore,andit’suptoourgreencoffeebuyertojuggletheoftencompetingdemandsofcashflowanddesirewhentheInternetauctionbegins.Coffeebuyersfromallovertheworldsitdownsimultaneouslyattheircomputersandbidontheirfavoritelots.Asinglelotofcoffeehasbeenpricedatover$100,000.(Interestingly,ifthatlotwouldhavebeensoldonthecommoditymarketthatyear,itwouldhavesoldfor$7,500.)Soinmanycases,roastersbidtogetherratherthantakethewholelot.Wehavethedisadvantageofbeingoneofthesmallercoffeecompaniesbiddingonentirelots,andpayingindollarsinsteadofyenworksagainstusaswell.Sometimeswegetourheartsbrokenwhenwe’reoutbidonaparticularfavorite,butweusuallyluckintoafewgreatlotseveryyear.Iexpectthataswegrow,we’llbeabletobuy,roast,andservemoreofourfavoriteCOEcoffees.COEmeansgreatcoffee,andtheCOElogo

COEmeansgreatcoffee,andtheCOElogoissomethingourcustomersnowlookfor.Also,COEauctionsareagreatwaytogetemployeesexcitedandinvolved.Oncethesamplesareroasted,wehaveopencuppings,withside-by-sidetastingofthevarioussamples,forallouremployees.Thenwefeatureasmallersubsetofourfavoritelotsatpubliccuppings.Usuallythecoffeeswillhaveacommonthreadthatletspeoplestarttogetahandleon“Brazil-ness”or“Rwanda-ness,”eventhoughthere’salotofdiversityamongthesubmissionsfromanygivencountry.

FarmerProfile:AidaBatlle,ElSalvador

Whenyoucantraceyourfamily’scoffeegrowinglineagebackfourgenerations,itmightseempredeterminedthatyouwillbecomeacoffeefarmer.ButwhenAidaBatllewassix,sheandherfamilyfledElSalvadortoescapeitscivilwar,andshegrewupintheUnitedStates.Inthesummerof2002,Aida,whohadsettledinNashville,wenttoEl

Salvadortovisitherparents,whohadpreviouslymovedbacktooverseethefamily’scoffeefarms.Coffeepriceswereattheirlowestpointinmanyyears,andherfatherseemedoverwhelmed.SuddenlysheknewshewasgoinguprootherlifeintheUnitedStatesandbecomeafarmer.“MyparentslookedatmelikeIwascrazy,”shesays.Aidawantedtolearnasmuchasshecouldaboutthecoffeetrade,soshe

startedattendinglecturesandsoughthelpfromtheSalvadoranCoffeeCouncil.SheheardabouttheCupofExcellenceanddecidedtoentercoffeefromtwooftheirthreemainfarmsinthefirstElSalvadorCOE,whichtookplacein2003.Shewasshockedwhenoneoftheirentrieswonfirstplace.BeforetheirCOEwin,herfamilyhadnevercuppeditsowncoffeesoreven

tastedthem.AidabecamethefirstwomantowinfirstplaceinaCOEandhercoffee’sprice—$14.06apoundforgreencoffee—alsosetarecord.Aidahadquicklybecomeoneoftheworld’smostcelebratedcoffeegrowers.Aidanowisinchargeofthefamily’sfourfarms(threeofthemnamedfor

placesinAfrica):Tanzania,locatedat4,180to4,530feet(1,275to1,380m);Mauritania,at4,590to5,250feet(1,400to1,600meters);LosAlpes,at5,085to6,150feet(1,550to1,875m);andKilimanjaro,at5,185to5,645feet(1,580to1,720meters).Aidaisalsoaconsultantandoverseespicking,sorting,andoverallqualityofthelotsshechoosesattwootherfarms,ElMajahualinLosNaranjos,at4,920feet(1,500m),andPlandeBateainCerroVerde,at4,590to4,920feet(1,400to1,500m).Whenshetookoverthefarms,Aidainstitutedorganicpracticesrightaway

andgotorganiccertificationin2005.Farmingorganicallyresultsinasignificantlyloweryieldthanconventionalfarmingandsodoesusingoldervarietals,whicharealsomoresusceptibletodisease.YetAidahasstayedloyaltotraditionalvarietals,suchasBourbon,whichhergreat-great-grandfatherfirstintroducedtoElSalvador.TheMauritaniafarmgrowsallBourbon,KilimanjarohasmostlyKenyaandBourbon,LosAlpeshasTypicaandBourbon,and

hasmostlyKenyaandBourbon,LosAlpeshasTypicaandBourbon,andTanzania,aneweradditiontothefamilyfarms,hasalmostallBourbon.“InElSalvadorinthisdayandage,it’shardtostickwiththeoldervarietals

withthecostofproductionbeingashighasitis,andifyou’renotinthemarkettohavedirecttradewitharoaster,youdependonanexporterormilltosellyourcherriesto,”saysAida,whostartedAidaBatlleSelectionstohelpconnectotherqualitylocalgrowerstoroasters.PeopleintheindustrywhohavevisitedKilimanjarohavesaiditsKenya

(spelledKenialocally)coffeetreesmightbetheprizedAfricanvarietalknownasanSL-28,basedonitscupprofileandthewaytheplantlooks,thoughAidahasneverhadthetreestested.KilimanjarowasoneoftheonlyfarmsintheareawithKenyatrees,andsomeofthetreeswereuprootedandstolenduringAida’sfirstCOE.Aidahasafarmmanagerforeachofthefarms,andeachfarmemploysatleast

tenpeopleyear-round,plusseasonalpickers.Afterthecoffeeisharvested,themillsendsatrucktopickupthecherries.Aidaorastaffmemberisconstantlyonsitetomonitortheprocessing.Sheisalwayslookingtoexperiment,mostlybasedonsuggestionsfromcustomers.Oneofherinnovativepracticesisofferingcustomerssomethinglikeamenu,

withthesamecoffeesprocessedseveraldifferentways.Eachexperimentisverysmall,usingabout25pounds(11.3kg)ofcherries,whichamountstoabout5pounds(2.3kg)ofbeans,andcustomershavetopreorder.Aidadoesn’tallowhercoffeestobeblendedwiththosefromotherfarms,andtheonlyblendsheoffersiscalledAida’sGrandReserve,amixofpeaberrycoffeesfromthreeofthefamily’sfarms.AfterSolberg&HansenofOslo,Norway,purchasedAida’sfirst-placeCOE

lotbackin2003,shewenttovisitthecafésoshecouldseehercoffeesinthecup.Shehadneverseenlatteartandwasintrigued.“Icandoeverythingperfectly,theexportercandoeverythingright,andsocantheimporterandthentheroaster.Butreallyeverythinghangsonthebarista,”saysAida,wholaterreceivedbaristacertificationfromtheBaristaGuildofAmericatodeepenherknowledgeofwhathappenstohercoffeeafteritleavesthefarm.Itisthiskindofattentiontodetailthatcontinuestoearnherreverencefromtheinternationalcoffeecommunity.FarmerssuchasAidaandLoriesetanimpressivestandard.Theircareand

dedicationisabundantlyevidentinthecoffee.Andwhencoffeecomesintoourroasteryinsuchgoodcondition,werealizethattheonlypeoplewhocanruinthefarmer’sexcellentworkisus.Sowetrytostayinspiredbytheirexampleandpouralloftheresourcefulnessandcarethatwecansummonintomakingsomethingdelicious.Inthenextchapter,I’llexplainwhatwedototurntheir

somethingdelicious.Inthenextchapter,I’llexplainwhatwedototurntheiragriculturalproduct—greencoffeebeans—intoamemorableandcompellingbeverage.

WHATITTAKESTOBEORGANIC

Almost85percentofthecoffeeweroastatBlueBottleiscertifiedorganic,andourroasteriesarecertifiedorganictoo.Organiccertificationisexpensive,cumbersome,andbureaucratic,bothforfarmersandatourroasteries.Sowhydowethinkit’sworthwhile?It’snotjustaboutpesticides.Atthefarmlevel,thedownsidestoorganic

certificationarehighcost,limitationsplacedonwatertreatment,andfirst-worldbureaucraticexpectationsplacedonthird-worldenvironments.Butthepositiveimpactofasuccessfulorganicprogramisundeniable:authenticdocumentationofthecoffee’scleanlinessandsustainabilityateverystepinitsjourneyfromseedlingtocup.Forcoffeetobecertifiedorganic,alloftheelementsoftheentirechain,fromfarmtowashingstationtoshippertoholdingwarehousetoroastery,isregularlyinspected,andthescrutinyextendsfarbeyondjustmeasurablepesticideresidues.Practicesexaminedanddocumentedincludeenvironmentallycorrectwatertreatmentatthefarm,notusingchemical-basedcleaningsupplies,andnotusinggeneticallymodified(GMO)seeds,tonamejustafew.Evenwhensmallfarmerscan’taffordthe

steepfeesfororganiccertification,theycanadoptorganicpractices.Thisiswherehavingadirectrelationshipwithgrowersisinvaluable.EventhoughBlueBottle’spriorityistousecertifiedorganiccoffeeinourblendsandasmanyofoursingle-origin

ourblendsandasmanyofoursingle-origincoffeesaspossible,themostimportantcriteriaispurchasingsingle-origincoffeesfromfarmersweadmireandwhosepracticeswerespect.Thatsaid,wedomentionthatwewillhappilypaymoreforthecoffeeifthefarmerprogressestowardorganiccertification.Ifaroasterbuyscertifiedorganiccoffee

buthasn’tgottentheroasterycertified,thenheorshecan’tcallitorganic.Isthatfair?Well,yes.Ifaroasterusestoxiccleansers,doesn’tcleanequipmentproperlybetweenbatches,orisn’tkeepingadequaterecordstoassurethatcertifiedorganiccoffeeisconsistentlypresent,measurableresiduescanbeintroducedintopreviouslycleancoffee.I’malwaysleerywhenIhearbaristasinothershopsdescribeacoffeeas“betterthanorganic”or“asgoodasorganic”becauseitimpliesthatthere’ssomekindofslidingscalewithinorganiccertification.Thereisn’t.Coffeeiseithercertifiedorganicorit’snot.Allofusalongthechainworkveryhardtokeepourrecordsperfectandourenvironmentcleaninexchangefortheprivilegeofshowingasealthatdemonstratesanunbrokenchainofinspectionandqualityallthewaybacktothecoffeeseedling.

ROAST

Aftercoffeeispainstakinglycultivated,harvested,processed,rested,shipped,clearedthroughcustoms,deliveredtothecontractwarehouse,andfinallyarrivesatoneofBlueBottle’sroasteries,wegetachancetoopenabagandroastit.Ifit’sacoffeewehavecupped—theindustrytermforanevaluativetasting—andselectedatitsorigin,weareespeciallyexcitedtoseehowithastraveled.FirstweroastsamplesofthecoffeeusingavarietyofroastlevelsandroastingprofilesusingourtinyProbatsampleroasters,whichhaveacapacityof0.5pound(227g).Wecupallofthevariationsoverseveraldays,andoncewehaveaconsensusaboutwhichroastprofilewearemostexcitedabout,giventheintendedcontextforthecoffee,wepassthebeansontotheroastingteam.It’stheirjobtobringouteverythingwediscoveredinthesamplesandthenaddgravitasanddignity,likeagreatactorbringinganinterestingroletolife.Theproductionroastilluminatesthecoffeeinunexpectedways,soweneverknowexactlyhowthecombinationofskilledhumanlaborandoldgear—intheformofourvintageroasters—isgoingtomanifest,buttheresultsarealwaysdistinctiveandpersonal.Roastingisallaboutchoosingyourrecipetodeterminetheflavorprofileof

thebeans.Nottoromanticizeit,thoughthattemptationisalwaysthere,thebeansaretakenonajourney.Aswetakethesesteps,weimaginequalitiesthatwe’reattemptingtobringoutorsuppressintheroasting.Roastingbeginswiththetoolswechoose.Istartedoutroastingcoffeeathome

onaperforatedbakingsheetintheoven.Itcreatedalotofsmoke,soIhadtowaituntilmyex-wife(whowasasingingteacherandthereforehadcertainneedsregardingherhouseholdairsupply)wasoutofthehouse.IlovedthetasteofthecoffeeIgotfromroastingathome.Atthetime(thelate1990s),

ofthecoffeeIgotfromroastingathome.Atthetime(thelate1990s),commercialcoffeeroastersdidn’tindicatetheroastdateonthebag,andIbecameobsessedwithhowthecoffeeIroastedathomewouldchangeasthedaysprogressed.Thatcoffeewaspalpablydifferentonthethirddayafterroastingcomparedtothefourth—imagine!ThiswasbeforetheInternetwasubiquitousandmethodicallytookthejoyoutofpersonaldiscoverieslikethese,soIfeltlikeanexplorer.ThepleasureIgotfromcoffeeIroastedmyselfwasuncanny.WhenIwasfirstthinkingaboutstartingacoffeeroastingbusiness,Iimagined

settingitupinmyOaklandbackyard—buildinganadobeoventhatwouldhouseaperforatedmetaldrum,heatedbyaseparatefirebox.IthoughtIhaditallfiguredout:whereIwouldstorethewood,whattouseforthedrum(theenamel-coatedsteeldrumofaKitchenAidclothesdryer),howtheovenwouldwork,andhowtheroastedbeanswouldcool.Iboughtbooksonconstructinganadobeoven.Ifoundasourceforceramicfluepiping,Isketchedplans,andImadeshoppinglists.Iwantedtherotationofthedrumtobepoweredbyaseriesofgearsandchainsthatcouldbeattachedeithertoabicycleoratreadmill,thelattersomyGermanshepherd,Ivy,couldpowertheroaster.Thiswasaseriousplan—asseriousasanythingIhadeverthoughtabout.Iwascaptivatedbyit.IwouldgoforarunaroundLakeMerrittwithIvy,andIcouldfeelit:standingoutsideinmybackyard,buildingafire,takingturnswithIvyonthetreadmill,showingupatWholeFoodsMarketorafarmers’marketsinmyPeugeotwagonfilledwithcoffee,andsaying,“Voilà!Hereisthecoffeethatyou’vebeenwaitingyourwholelifetobuy.”ItwasfrustratingwhenIfoundoutthatpeoplethoughtthiswasaridiculous

plan.IcalledawomanIknewwhoworkedfortheplanningdepartmentinOakland,andsheunderscoredthatitwasaridiculousandillegalplan.MyconversationwithafellowattheAlamedaCountyPublicHealthDepartmentwassimilar,excepthewasn’tasniceaboutit.Undaunted,IboundedintotheofficesofRoyalCoffeeinEmeryville.Royalis

oneofthemostrespectedcoffeebrokersintheUnitedStates.IwasabsolutelypositiveIwouldbehailedasaninnovator.Adog-powered,wood-fired,backyardcoffeeroastery—genius!Oddlyenough,Iwasn’tusheredASAPintotheofficeofthebosstoexpoundonmybrilliantidea.Therewas,however,averynice,understandingmanwhoapparentlyhadalotofexperiencedealingwithcrazypeople.AfterItoldhimmyplan,hefixedmewithakindlygazeandsaid,“Maybeyoushouldlookintosomeofthecommercialmanufacturersofcoffeeroasters.ThereisafineonelocatedinSandpoint,Idaho.”Ifelttheairgooutofmydog-poweredroasteridea.Afewdayslater,Ibookedaflightto

Spokane,rentedacar,drovetoSandpoint,and,bytheweekendoftheWestminsterdogshow,waslearninghowtoroastontheDiedrichIR-7fromnoneotherthanStephenDiedrichhimself.WhenImeetpeoplenowandtheytellmeabouttheirinsaneorterribleplans

forstartingafoodbusiness,Irecognizethatlook.Itwasmylook.IknowthatsoonenoughsomeonefromtheAlamedaCountyPublicHealthDepartmentorothersuchentitywillcomeintotheirlivesandbursttheirbubble,soItrytobeunderstanding.Inodmyheadandsmileandletthemtellmeabouttheirridiculousplans.

AtBlueBottle,wenowroastinolderdrumroastersmadebytheGermancompanyProbatinthe1950s.Ilikeoldgear—oldespressomachines,oldbassclarinets,oldopa-scopes,oldstereos—butImaylikeoldcoffeeroastersbest.Thereissomethinghumblingaboutusinganindustrialmachinethathasbeenoperatingalmostcontinuouslysincethe1950s.Itremindsmethatgoodworkershavebeenroastinggoodcoffeeonsimple,durablemachinesforalongtime.Wedon’tgetupanyearlier,wedon’tworkanyharder,andwearen’tanysmarter,funnier,orhappierthanallofthepeoplewhohavebeenusingthismachineoverthelastsixtyyears.Liketheroastersbeforeus,wearetryingtomakeadeliciousproductonthisbig,simplemachine.Whenusingadrumroaster,inwhichcoffeebeansspininametaldrumas

theyareroasted,therearetwobasicwaysofheatingthebeans:conductionorconvection.Conductionisthetransferofheatbetweenmatter:whenbeanstouchthewarmroastingdrumorwhenwarmbeanstouchotherbeans,raisingtheir

thewarmroastingdrumorwhenwarmbeanstouchotherbeans,raisingtheirtemperature.Inconvection,heatedairmovesthroughthemass,heatingthebeans.Bothtypesarepresentatalltimes;however,dependingonthestageoftheroastandthetypeofcoffee,theroasterchooseswhichtypeofheattoemphasize.Peopleoftenthinkaboutroastingintermsofhowthecolorofthebeans

changes.Yes,thecoffeechangescolorwhenit’sroasted—fromgreentoyellowtovariousdegreesofbrown—buthowthatcolorisarrivedatdeterminestheflavorofthecoffee.Ifyoucookawholechickenat700°F(371°C)andpullitoutoftheovenafter7½minutes,it’sgoingtobedarkontheoutsideandrawontheinside.Thesamethingcanhappenwithcoffee.Duringroasting,theheatdriesoutthebeansandconvertsstarchesintosugars.

AlthoughthisprocessisusuallyreferredtoaseithertheMaillardreactionorcaramelization,interchangeably,thetwoarereallyquitedifferent.TheMaillardreactionisthetypeofreactionthatcausesmeattobrownorcolorsthecrustonbread.Itinvolvesareactionbetweensugarmoleculesandaminoacidsandproducesmoresavoryumamiflavorsthansweetness.CaramelizationoccursathighertemperaturesthantheMaillardreactionandinvolvesonlysugarmolecules.Paradoxically,increasedcaramelizationresultsindecreasingsweetnessbutincreasingcomplexity.Intermsofcoffeeroasting,we’rehopingtohitthatspotwherethecoffeewill

stillbesweetbutwithapleasantlysavoryandbittercomplexitystartingtodevelop.Undershootingthatpointbyalittlewillresultincoffeethat’sblandbutsweet.Undershootingitevenmoreallowsastringent,sour,grassynotestoremain,aqualitycoffeeprofessionalsrefertoasunderdeveloped.Overshootingthespotweareaimingatemphasizesthetoastinessofthecoffeeflavors,muchthesamewaythatslightlytoomuchtimeinthetoastermakesthecharacterofdifferenttypesofbreadhardtodistinguishfromeachother.Evenmoretimeintheroasterwillemphasizethecarbonflavorsofcoffee,likethewaythecharofburnedsteakoverpowersthetasteofthemeatinside.Theimportantthingtorememberisthattheroasterchoosesthisoptimum

pointofflavordevelopment.Itisn’tanobjectivedecision,despitetheschoolofthoughtthatthereareintrinsicqualitieslockedincoffeethatroastersmerelyilluminate—thatweareblessedwithaprivilegedinsightintosometruthofcoffeethatotherscan’thopetounderstand—likeDavidsomehowlockedinthatpieceofmarble,andMichelangelochippingawaytofindhim.ButIdon’tthinkthat’strue.Roastingis,bydefinition,manipulation.Whilethequalityoftherawmaterialshelpsdeterminethequalityofthefinishedproduct,roastingisaboutmakingchoices:whichqualitiesinacoffeedoyouwanttohighlight,andwhich

doyouwanttosuppress?WhenIcupourcoffee,Ithinkaboutpleasureandcontext:Isthiscoffeedeliciousandinteresting?Arewebringingoutanappropriateflavorforthecontextintendedforit?Havewefailedtoelicitsomethingpotentiallyappealing?Inthischapter,I’llexplainthestepsinvolvedincommercialcoffeeroastingas

weapproachitatBlueBottle.I’llalsohelpyoudevelopahands-onappreciationfortheprocessbyexplaininghowyoucanroastcoffeeathome,usingamethodthatisalmostprimitiveinitssimplicity.ThenI’llhelpyoubecomeevenmoreintimatewithyourcoffeebydoingwhatroastersdoeveryday:cupping.AtBlueBottle,wemakecoffeeattheroasteryinalmosteverysenseofthe

word“make,”butthecoffeeisalsomakingus.Thatactofontologicaltransformationinitiatedbydrinkingcoffee,especiallydrinkingcoffeethatwehaveroasted,iscentraltowhatwedoandhowwethink.We,andthousandsofourcustomers,expectourcoffeetobedelicious.Butcoffeeisalsotransformative—itmakesussmarter,healthier,funnier,morecharming.Ifit’sadrug,thenitisthebestdrug.Goodcoffeemakesuscuriousaboutpleasure.Itmakesuswhowewishtobe.

RoastingDay

Theroastingdaystartsearly.Coffeeisanantemeridiembusinessandusuallystartsinthedark.AtBlueBottle’sroasteries,theroastersarrivebeforeanyoneelse—beforethejanitors,thedeliverydrivers,thebaristas,ortheaccountants.It’shardtogetupat4a.m.It’ssomethingthatnevergetseasy.Forme,nomatterwhenIgottobed,Ialwaysfeltasenseofdreadwhenthealarmwentoffat4a.m.ClassicKierkegaard,straightoutofTheConceptofAnxiety:animalsareslavestotheirinstinctsandhencefeelnoresponsibility,buthumansarefreeandthereforeconstantlyawareoftheirfailuretoliveuptotheirresponsibilitiestoGod—ortoCoffee.Whenthealarmgoesoffat4a.m.andyourbodyiscryingoutinthedarkformoresleep,thatfeelingofanxietyandresponsibilitycanimmobilizeyouoranimateyou.Everyworkingmorning,roasterschoosetoanimatetheirterriblefeelingsofanxiety,dread,andresponsibilityandfacethedauntingtaskofroastingcoffee.Thatfirstdecisiontogetupinthemorningisamirrorofallthehardandlonelydecisionsthatmustbemadefortherestoftheroastingday.Foura.m.There’sareasonBergmancalleditthehourofthewolf.Butwe

needtogetcoffeeroasted,andthisishowwedoit.

STARTINGTHEDAY

At5a.m.,youarriveattheroastery.Maybeanotherroasterisalreadythere,maybenot.It’squiet—asquietastheplacewillbeforthenexttwelvehours.Andcold.Thefirstthingtodoisturnontheroaster.TheswitchesarealittlenewerthantheProbatitself,whichwasbuiltinthe1950s,inaretro-industrialstyle,almostlikesomethinginaWesAndersonmovie.Theswitchesarecoldtothetouchanddifficulttoturn.Everymorningthatseemssurprising.Thefirstswitchturnsonthemotorthatdrivestheroastingdrum,andthesecondoneturnsonthegas.Whenyouthrowthefirstswitch,there’sajudderingasthespeedofthedrum

catchesuptowiththespeedofthemotor.That’sthefirstmomentofuncertaintyinadayfilledwithmomentsofuncertainty.Afterafewseconds,thejudderingcalmsdowntoaquiet,rhythmichum,likeanoldclothesdryer.It’scomforting,andfeelslikesippinghotchocolateonacold,blusterydaywhilewaitingforyourjeanstodry.Whenyouthrowthesecondswitch,there’saninsistentandsuspenseful

clickingfortwentytofortysecondsandyouwonderifthisisthemorningthepilotwon’tlighttheburners.Butthentheburnerslight,justliketheydidyesterday,andjustliketheywilltomorrow.There’sareassuringwhooshthatbringsthefirstsmallsatisfactionoftheday—theroasterison.

WARMINGUPTHEROASTER

Next,theroasterneedstoheatup.AtBlueBottle,ourroastersaresimplemachines.Imagineadrummuchliketheoneinsideaclothesdryer,poweredbyanelectricalmotorandrotatingoveranopenflamefueledbynaturalgas.Hotairmovesthroughthedrumandisventedouttheback(seeillustration).Thedrumismadeofcastironandisheavy.Ithassomuchthermalmassthatitusuallytakesthirtytofortyminutestoreachtheroastingtemperature,dependingonhowcoldthedayis.Butifyou’restandingnexttoit,youcanfeelalittleheatradiatingoutwardwithinafewminutes.Tome,italwaysfeelssoothingbuttentative,maybelikeprehistoricwolvesfeltinchingcloserandclosertothecaveman’sfires.Onceyou’resatisfiedthattheroasteristurningandheatingup,it’stimeto

makeacupofcoffee.Nowyou’refacedwithanotherkeydecision:Chooseacoffeefromyesterday’sroastthatyou’reconcernedabout?Orchooseacoffeethatwillbereassuring?Thebestscenarioistochooseacoffeethatyou’reworriedaboutandhaveitbeglorious.Theworstistoseekreassurancefromacoffeethatyouthoughtyounailedyesterdayandhaveitraisemorequestionsthanitsettles.Istheflavorflat?Notsweetenough?Onceagain,wesufferatthehandsofourownchoices.Regardless,coffeemustbemade.Whileyouwaitforthemachinestowarmupanddrinkyourcupofcoffee,

youreviewtheroastingsheet.Theofficetookordersforcoffeeyesterdayandenteredtheminthecomputer.Thecoffeewillberoastedtodayanddeliveredtomorrowmorning.Youlookatthatsheetandthinkaboutwhichcoffeeyou’regoingtoroastinwhichroasterandwhen;youwanttostartbyroastingthecomponentsforblends,sothebaggerscanworkonthemwhentheycomeinat8or9a.m.Maybeyou’lldoabatchofSumatraforabrewed-coffeeblend,oraBraziliancoffeeforanespressoblend—somethingyouknowreallywell.Youdrinkyourcoffee.Youstartdoingthemathandstartweighingoutbatchesinbuckets.Youcheckthesamplesfromthedaybefore:lookatthem,smellthem,andfinallypopafewbeansinyourmouthandcrunchthemlikecocktailpeanuts.Thecuppingwillcomelater,whenmorepeoplearriveforwork.Fornow,thistasteofcrunchycoffeebeansisthesecondindicationofhowwellthingswentyesterday.Arethebeanstasty?Fragrant?Promising?Youlookatnotesfromthedaybefore,andifsomeoneelsewasroasting,youlearnsomethingaboutthatperson’sstateofmind.Wasthemachinemakingafunnysound?Weretheyhavingdifficulties?Weretheynailingit?

LOADINGTHEMACHINE

Nowthemachineisuptotemperatureandreadytoroast.Thisistheexcitingpart.Youpickupthebucketwiththefirstbatchofbeansandsendituptheloader.Muchlikeaminiaturegrainelevator,theloadermechanicallymovesthegreenbeansuptothehopperandthendepositsthebeansintothedrum.Youpressabuttonandslideasliderthatseparatesthehopperfromthedrum,thenthesoundofthemachinegoesfromfairlyquiettolouderandmorerhythmic.Accordingtobabybooks,thewombisnoisyplace.There’saloudrhythmic

churning,aswooshingkindofwhitenoise.Yetwhatincreasesthebaby’sstresslevels(again,accordingtothebabybooks)isn’tthenoiseorthechurning,butarrhythmicmomentsofquiet.TheProbatturnsataboutsixty-tworotationsperminute.That’sahumanrhythm—alotofheartsbeatatthatspeed,myownincluded.Oncegreencoffeegoesintheroaster,there’sarepeated,rhythmicwhooshingthat’srelaxing.Roastersinternalizethispeacefulnoiseandrhythm,andanxietyincreaseswhenitdisappears.Youliveindreadofthesemomentsofquiet—momentsthattellyousomethingbadmightbehappeningorisjustabouttohappen.Butintheearlymorninghours,beforeanyonestartsthestereo,beforethebaggingmachinesgetturnedon,beforetheforkliftisrunning,theespressomachinessteammilk,orthejanitorpowerwashesthesidewalk,that’swhatyouhear—thewomb.Thebeansroastthroughacombinationofconductiveheat(contactingthe

drumandeachother)andconvectiveheat(theflowofwarmairthroughthedrum).Intheprocess,thebeansgraduallylosewatercontentandbegintoundergochemicalreactions,theirprecisenaturedeterminedbytheamountofheat,air,andmoisture.Youknowwhereyouwantthiscoffeetogo,soyousetthetimerandthentakenotes,recordingbatchsize,varietal,andothercrucialdetails.Earlierintheday,thedroptemperature—theinternaltemperatureofthe

roasterwhenyoudropthecoffeeintothedrum—willbealittlehigherthanlaterinthedaybecauseofthelowerairtemperatureinthewarehouseinthemorningandthehugethermalmassoftheroasteritself.Ifthedroptempistoohigh,you’llscorchthebeanswhentheyareinaveryvulnerableposition—atcoolroomtemperatureandholdingtheirmaximumwatercontent.Scorchingrobsthecoffeeofsomeofitsvitalityandthinsthetexture,soadroptempthat’stoohighisabummer.Butifthedroptempistoolow,that’sbadtoo.Itcanslowtheroasttothepointofflatteningtheflavor.Ineffect,thecoffeebakesandsteamsinahumidenvironment,ratherthanroasting.

humidenvironment,ratherthanroasting.Foreveryvarietal,youwanttofindthedroptempthatenhancesthequalities

thatmakethatparticularcoffeespecial.Forexample,altitudecancorrelatewithdensity,anddenser,high-elevationcoffees,sayfromEthiopia,oftentastebetterwhenroastedwithahigherdroptemperature.Ontheotherhand,alower-elevationcoffeefromBrazilcan’ttakeasmuchheat,soyouwoulddroptheBrazilatalowertemperaturethantheEthiopian.AtBlueBottle,whenroastingcoffeewearealwaysthinkingabouthowthe

coffeewillbeused.Weroastespressodifferently(notnecessarilydarker)thancoffeeweplanonbrewingbypourover,forexample.Coffeeusedinablendisoftenroasteddifferentlythanthesamecoffeeifweintendtouseitbyitself.Howwedeterminethosedifferencesistheresultofcuppingthecoffees,experimentsinourlab,andfeedbackfrombaristas.Sometimes,weactuallywantalittlelessvitalityfromacoffee.Forexample,wetendtouseGuatemalancoffeesfromco-opsinourespressoblends.Thesecoffeesareverydense,high-altitudecoffeesandhavealotofinherentvitality.Becausetheespressoextractionprocesscanemphasizebrightnesstouncomfortablelevels(thinkofwarmgrapefruitjuiceinyourcappuccino),weroastthosebeansatalowerdroptempandforalongertimethanifwewereroastingthemtobeconsumedasanunblendedpourover.Notethatthelongerroastingtimedoesn’tmeanwe’reroastingthebeansdarker.Theresultsofthetwodifferentroastingprofilescouldlookexactlythesame,butonemightbeperfectinanespresso,whereastheotherwouldbemuchtoosharp.

BOTTOMINGOUT

Oncethebeansareloaded,you’rewaitingfortheroastertemperaturetobottomout,indicatingcompletionofthefirststageoftheroast.Thegreencoffeeisatabouttheambienttemperatureofthewarehouse,usuallyaround60°F(16°C)inourunheatedOaklandspace.Sothethermalmassofthecoffeebringsthemuchgreaterthermalmassoftheroasterdownfromabout380°F(193°C)toitslowestpoint—usually180°Fto190°F(82°Cto88°C),dependingontheweatherandbatchsize.Theamountoftimeittakestogettothelowestpointtellsyouhowmuchenergyyou’llneedtoputbackintothecoffeetogetitthoughtheroast.Ifyoureachthelowestpointat2½minutes,that’sagentlercurvethan1½minutes,whichmeansthatyouareindangerofbakinginsteadofroasting.Youwritedownthetimewhenthetemperaturebottomedout.(Thekeytobeingagoodroasterissystematicallydoingthreethings:takinggoodnotes,cuppingyourcoffee,andcleaningyourmachine.)Oncethebeantemperaturehitsthebottomofthecurve,it’sgoingtoclimb,

andyourjobistokeepitfromclimbingtoofast.Ifyouputtoomuchheatintoit,thatwillsuckairthroughthedrum,dryingthecoffeetooquickly.Youwantthetemperaturetorisesmoothlyandgraduallytogettowhat’scalledfirstcrack.

ARRIVINGATFIRSTCRACK

Firstcrackisthecoffeeroaster’stermforachemicalreactionthatoccursascoffeebeginstoreachthe“drinkable”stage.Muchlikethechemicalreactionthatpopscorn,theaudiblepopping,increaseinbeansize,anddecreaseinbeandensitythatoccursincoffeeatthatstageoftheroastistheresultofthemoisturetrappedinthecoffeeboilingoffandforcingitswayoutsidethecoffeebean,rupturingthecellwalls.Forthefirstfewminutesoftheroast,itlookslikenothingischanging.Butthe

beansarewarmingup,andsoonthemoisturewillstarttoboilaway.After3or4minutes,thesmall,hard,greencoffeebeansstarttotakeonsomecolorandsmelllikepopcornorwarm,damphay.It’sagentle,grassy,youthfularoma.Thiscanbeagreatstageoftheroast—ifyou’reofftoagoodstart.It’slikehavingasmartfour-year-oldwhoisoutofdiapersbutstillalmostallpotential.Itfeelsboundlessandpositive.Becausethecoffeeissteamingandlosingwater,it’simportanttomakesure

thatairismovingthroughthedrum,otherwisethehumiditylevelinthedrumcangettoohigh.About5minutesintotheroast,thecoffeestartstoturnyellow-gold.Withsomecoffees,thisiswhenyoufirstsmellattributesthatyouwanttobeabletotasteinthefinishedproduct.Atthispoint,youmightpullthetryer,whichallowsyoutogetasampleofthebeansinsidetheroaster,andsmellthem—justoutofsheerpleasure,becauseitsmellslikesomethinggreatisabouttohappen.You’restillapplyingalotofheat,butyou’restartingtothinkahead.You’re

goingtohavetowalkatightropeinafewminutes.Thetemperatureisstillclimbing,andthecoffeeisbecominganincreasingly

darkerbrown.It’sstartingtosmelllesslikehayandtoastandmorelikecoffee.Thebeansarestillkindofuglyandwrinklybutsoonwillpuffup.Firstcrackisanendothermicreaction,whichmeansthatitdependsonthecoffeeabsorbingheat,soyouhavetomakesureyou’restilladdingheattothesystem.Onthemachinesatourroasteries,withmostofourcoffeesfirstcrackhappensataround9to11minutesin.Ifyou’vebeencareful,thebeginningoffirstcrackcomesonsubtly:agentlepoportwo,thennothingforafewseconds,thenafewmorepops—moreoften,louder,andmoreinsistent.Rightaroundfirstcrackiswhenthecreativityoftheroasterstartstomatter.

Youstartpullingthetryermoreoften,andyouthinkabouttheprofileyou’reaimingforandthelasttimeyoucuppedthiscoffee.AtBlueBottle,thegoalformostofourcoffeesisvitality:astrong,integratedpersonalitythatdisplaysa

mostofourcoffeesisvitality:astrong,integratedpersonalitythatdisplaysaperspectiveonthecoffeethatthrillsus.Theshortperiodoftimebefore,during,andafterfirstcrack—approximately120secondstotal—iswhenwearemostconsumedwithchangesinroastingvariables.Wewantthetemperatureofthecoffeetocontinuetorise,butwewanttomanagetherateverycarefully.Ifthetemperaturerisestooquickly,momentumwillcarrythecoffeepastwherewewantittobe.Butifthereisn’tenoughheat,thetemperaturewillstaythesamefortoolongor,worse,fall,eitherofwhichcanresultinacoffeewithaflat,boringflavor.Atthebeginningoftheroast,wemayallowthetemperaturetoclimbby5°F(2.7°C)in20seconds,buttowardtheendwemayteasetheheatsothatweadd5°F(2.7°C)overthecourseof90seconds,whilestillensuringthattheheatrisessteadily,withoutstallingorlevelingout.Ifweknowwehavedecentmomentumgoingintofirstcrack,strikingabalancebetweenstallingandclimbinghelpsusmanagethetensionbetweendevelopingdepthandmaintainingsweetness.

SECONDCRACK

Secondcrackisthecoffeeroaster’stermfortheexothermicchemicalreactionthatoccursafterfirstcrack.Asopposedtofirstcrack,secondcrackproducesitsownheat,whichcanquicklysweeparoastpastthepointofbeingtoodark.Anycoffeelabeled“French”or“Italian”roastiscoffeethathasmostlikelybeenroastedwellintosecondcrack.Dependingonthetypeandqualityofthegreenbeansandtheskilloftheroaster,thecoffeetastesmoreoftoast,andperhapscarbon,thanofitsorigin.Havingsaidthat,agenerically“toasty”flavorprofileistheobjectofalegitimatedesireforacertaintasteandeventhoughwechoosenottoroastthatdarkly,weareneverscornfulofcustomersvoicingawishfora“French”roast.

DUMPINGTHEBATCH

Afterapatientandcontemplativestart,youneedtofinishtheroastverysuccinctly.Themomentumoftheheatinthebeansmeansyoucan’tjustsetatargetfinaltemperature.Youmustaccountforthethermalmassanditsmomentumindecidingwhentodumpthebatch.Youhavetobringmaximumconcentrationtothetaskduringthelast20secondsoftheroast,remainingalerttoallofthesensoryinformationthatwillinformyourdecision.You’relookingforsignsthatthebeansareplumpedup,andbeautifularomasthatremindyouofthelastgreatbatchyoucupped.Atthesametime,youtrynottoletpressureorindecisioncauseyoutooverthinkandfreeze.Youwanttodropthebatchwhenyourmindandbodyteamuptosay,“Now!”Ifyouletyourmindsay,“Butontheotherhand…,”you’vechoked,andthecoffeeprobablywon’tbewhatyouwerehopingfor.Youdumpthecoffee,thenclickonthefanandagitatorarmtospeedthe

coolingofthecoffee.Youopenthedoorandthere’sapuffofsmoke.Youfeeltheheatonyourface.Howthecoffeelooksandsmellstellsyoualotaboutwhethertheroastturnedouthowyou’dhoped.Thesmellisthefirstcue:Didyounailit?Ifitsmellsliketoastwaftingdownthehallwaywhileyou’restilllyingsnugandwarminbed,mingledwiththedregsoftheglassofstrawberryQuikyouleftonthebedsidetablethenightbefore,theanswerisamostemphaticyes.Ifyougetastrongerscentoftoastmingledwiththepungentsmellofinflatablepooltoysonahotday,orthebrinyhitofopeningacanoflow-endolivesatasmokypartyyouprobablydon’twanttobeatinthefirstplace,thenyouknowyoudidn’tdoyourbestforthatcoffee.Evenafteritisdumpedfromthedrum,thecoffeecontinuestoroastinthecoolingtrayuntilitcoolsdown,foraboutthenext4minutes,butthatfirstsmelldoesn’tlie.Astheagitatorarmspinsthebeansaroundtocoolthem,thetemperaturenear

theroasterrises.Youcanfeeltheheatonyourfaceasyouwalkaroundtheroaster.Thefansoundsdifferentbecausethebearingsareunderlesspressureanditchangesthesoundintheroom.Aswe’vediscussed,thesonicenvironmentisanimportantpartoftheroaster’ssensoryworld.Whenthebearingssingadifferentsong—asongthatisabouttherebeingnocoffeeinthedrum—weroastersrelax,knowingthatonsomelevel,wearefreetoconcentratelessseverely.

TAKINGNOTES

Oncethecoffeeiscool,youputitinabin.Thenyouweighitandcompareitsweightbeforeandafterroasting.Becauseroastingcooksoutsomeofthewaterinthecoffee,eachbatchlosesabout13to18percentofitsweight.Todeterminethewaterlossforeachbatch,yousubtracttheroastedweightfromtheunroastedweightanddividethatnumberbytheunroastedweight.That’syourpercentage,andyouwriteitdown.Isit14percentor14.5percent?Andifitwas14.8percentyesterday,whyisitdifferenttoday?Youkeeptrackofallthesenumbers—thedroptemp,thetimetofirstcrack,andpercentageofwaterloss—sothat,ifthisbatchturnsoutgreat,otherroasterscanduplicateyourresults.Thebeansforthenextfewbatcheshavebeenweighedout,soyougraba

bucketandpouritinthehopper.Youturnuptheheatandwaitforthedrumtoreachthetargetdroptempbeforeloadinginthebeans.Meanwhile,youemptythecurrentbatchintoatub,weighit,dropinalabel,andsenditonitsway.Next,itwillgothroughadestoner,whereanylittlebitsofforeignmatter(thatis,stones,coins,bulletcasings,bitsofcement)areremovedbyvacuumingcalibratedtopickupmatterwiththedensityofcoffee,notthedensityofmetalorrock.Thenthebaggerswillputitbags,packthebagsinhandsomegraytotes,andloadtheminthedeliveryvans.Tomorrow,thatcoffeewillbecupped—bytheroastersandbythetraining

staff,bymanagersandleadbaristas,byrandomvisitorsinthecuppingroom,andperhapsbythegeneralpublicifthatcoffeegetsintoapubliccupping.Everyonewillmethodicallytakenotesoncuppingforms.Andwhenyouarrivethenextmorningandmakethatfirstcupofcoffee,perhapsyou’llcupthatcoffeeandrevisityournotestoseehowyoudidandwhetheryouwanttodoanythingdifferently.

FINISHING

Ifyou’reworkingtheroasterforalongtime,it’seasytoforgetthatthecoffeeyou’recreatingwillgosomewhere.Youaren’tengagedinaroteexerciseor,likeSisyphus,foreverrollingthesameboulderuphill.Thebagsofcoffeeyoucreatearegoingtotakeatripinthenextfewdays.They’llbedeliveredtotheshops.Peoplewillbuysometotakehomeorgiveasgifts(buthopefullynottoputinthebackofthefreezerto“save”foraspecialoccasion;seeRoastedCoffee'sShortLifeSpan,below).Peoplewillwakeupinthedarkandpadtotheirkitchenneedingstrength,andthereassurancethatsomethingdelightfulisabouttohappen—andhopingthatthissmallchoreofmakingcoffeemightsetthetoneforadayfilledwithdifficult,wonderfulthings.Asacoffeeroaster,yourlifeisdividedinroughly17-minutesegments—

enoughtimetoloadthegreencoffee,roastit,dumpit,coolit,andsenditonitsway.Thatmeansyouhaveabouttwenty-fivechancesinanaverageday,125chancesinaweek,and6,500chancesayeartomakesomethingbeautiful.

ROASTEDCOFFEE’SSHORTLIFESPANAtBlueBottle,everysingledaycustomersaskhowtheyshouldstoretheircoffee.Andeverydaywetellthemtobuyasmallamount,putthebaginacoolcupboard,andcomebackandbuymorewhentheyrunout.Unlessyougotoalotoftrouble,freezingisn’taneffectivewayofmakingcoffeeflavorslast.Thefreezerisgoodattakingmoistureoutofanenvironmenttoprohibitbacterialgrowth.Butwewantthedelicatebalanceofmoistureinthecoffeebeanstoremain!Also,watercondensingonicyroastedcoffeewhenitispulledfromthefreezergetsreabsorbedintothebeans,makingthemdullertasting.Coffeehasalifespan:afterbeingroasted,itgetsmoreinterestingforuptoninedaysafterroasting—fuller,morecomplex,andgenerallymoreenjoyable.Afterthattime,there’saninevitabledecline.Coffeeoxidizes.Theflavorsbecomelessvibrant,andeventuallythecoffeetastesdull.It’sstale.There’sreallynothingyoucandoaboutit.Darkerroastsaremoreperishable.Thosetendtohaveapalpabledecline

withinsevendaysafterbeingroasted.Lighterroaststakelongertogettotheirpeakandtobecomestale,especiallylightroastsofdense,well-harvested,well-processed,high-elevationcoffee.Weliketosellcoffeetoourcustomersnolaterthanforty-eighthoursafterroasting.Thatwayourcustomershavetheamazingopportunitytoparticipateinthelifespanoftheircoffee,experiencingitascendingtoitspeakanddiscoveringwhenitstartstodecline.

ascendingtoitspeakanddiscoveringwhenitstartstodecline.Groundcoffeeisevenmorefragile.Espressodullsninetysecondsafterbeing

ground.Coursergrindslastalittlelonger:twentyminutestoanhour.That’swhyBlueBottledoesn’tsellpregroundcoffee.Everynowandthencustomersgetmadbecausewewon’tgrindtheircoffeeforthem.Itkillsustobethebadguy,butweknowinourheartsthatthecoffeewon’tbeverygoodaftertwentyshortminutes.Howcouldwewillinglysellaproducttosomeoneknowingthatitwillbedisappointingbeforetheycanevengetithome?

HowtoRoastCoffeeatHome

Puttingcoffeeonaperforatedbakingsheetintheovenisoneofthemostbasicwaystoroastitathome.Youcanbuycomplicatedroastingtoolsandmachines,butthisisagoodwaytotryhomeroastingwithoutmakingamajorinvestment.Theresultisfairlyrustic;youwouldn’twanttousethismethodwiththemostrarefiedPanamaGeisha.However,thissimplemethodisanempoweringprocess,anditcouldsaveyoualotofmoney.Sweetmarias.comsellsgreenbeansandroastingequipment,andtheyhaveawideselection.Theyalsoofferanonlinelibraryofresourcesthattheyaptlycalla“virtualcoffeeuniversity”andcopiousdetailsonhomeroasting.(Andthey’relocatedinOakland,whichmeanstheyrule.)Besuretotakenotesalongthewaysoyoucanreproduceyourmethod

laterifyoulikehowthecoffeeturnsout.Keepinmindthatit’snormalforthebeanstobeunevenlyroastedwhenyouusethismethod.Thetrade-offisthatyoucangetanincreasedcomplexitywithalotofdifferentroastlevels.Whenyou’refirststarting,ithelpstohaveareferencecolorinmind.

WhenIstartedroastingcoffeeathome,Ikeptahandfulofroastedcoffeebeansinawhiteceramicbowlandcomparedthecolorofthecoffeeonthebakingsheettothatinthebowl.Rightaway,Ilearnedthatthecoffeecontinuestodarkenabitafterremovingitfromtheoven,sowhenthecoffeewasn’tquiteasdarkasmysample,Ipulledthebakingsheetoutoftheoven.Afterawhileroastingthesamevarietal,you’llgetasenseofwhatcolortranslatestowhatflavor.Onethingtokeepinmind:thereferencecoffeewillchangeasthedaysprogress,soyoucan’tuseanygivensampleforverylong.Ingeneral,inmyfirstroastingofaparticulartypeofcoffee,Iaimfora

mediumbrownthatresemblesalightmahogany.(Asidefromcolor,anotherwaytoassesswhencoffeeisroastedtoamediumlevelisifoilisvisible,likelittlepinpricks,onthesurfaceofthebeansfivetosixdaysafterroasting,butofcourseyoucan’tusethatindicatorwhileroasting.)Whenpicturingtheidealmediumbrown,IthinkofthelittlewoodenrockingchairthatI’vehadmywholelifeandpasseddowntomyson.It’sacolorIcanseewithmyeyesclosed.MaybeyourmediumbrownisthesoftCorinthianleatherseatsofthe1976ChryslerCordobainwhichyouroldersistertookyou,petrified,totheprincipal’sofficeafteralightheartedseventh-gradeprankwentterriblyawry.Ithinkweallhaveamediumbrownthatwecanseewithoureyesclosed.What’syours?

seewithoureyesclosed.What’syours?

WHATYOU’LLNEED•Gramscale• Perforated baking sheet that is the size of a cookie sheet and will fit in your oven.Becauseit’simportantforthecoffeetobenomorethanonebeandeep,ifyouroven(andhence,bakingsheet)isparticularlysmall,youshouldadjustthesizeofyourbatch.•150g(5.3ounces/about1cup)greencoffeebeans•2mediumorlargemetalsieves•Stopwatchortimerthatshowsseconds

Placearackinthecenteroftheoven.Preheattheovento500°F(260°C)for30minutesormore,usinganoventhermometertoensurethetemperatureisaccurate.JustlikeBlueBottle’sProbatcoffeeroastersandLaMarzoccoespressomachines,yourovenhassignificantthermalmass,andthelongeryouallowittopreheat,themorestablethetemperaturewillremainwhenyouopenthedoorduringroasting.Ifyouhaveagramscalethatweighstotenthsofagram,nowisthetime

touseit(sothatlateryoucanmostaccuratelydeterminethepercentageofweightthecoffeelosesduringtheroastingprocess).Weighout150grams(5.3oz)ofcoffeebeans,andspreadtheminasinglelayeroverthecenterofthebakingsheet,extendingovernomorethanone-halftotwo-thirdsofthebakingsheet.(Ifspreadallthewaytotheedgesofthepan,thebeanstendtosingearoundtheedges.)Havethesievesathand,turnonanyventfans,openanywindows,andconsiderturningoffthesmokealarminthekitchen.(Butifyoudo,remembertoturnitbackonafterroasting.)Putthepanintheoven,closetheovendoor,andstartthestopwatch.Ifyouhaveareasonableviewthroughtheglassofyourovendoor,you

canobservethecoffee’sprogress.Ifyouhaveanoldovenwithnoglassorpoorvisibilitythroughyourglassdoor,resistthetemptationtoopenthedoortoooften,asthiswillallowtoomuchheattoescape.Openthedoornomorethanevery90to120secondsatfirst,increasingthefrequencyonlyastheroastprogresses.Don’topenthedoorformorethan4to5secondsatatime,usingagoodflashlightifneedbetoquicklyobservethecoffee.Here’satimelineofhowtheroastingshouldproceed.

2TO3½MINUTES:Thebeanswilltakeonabrighter,moreintensegreencolor.

3½TO4MINUTES:Thecoffeewillstarttoturnyellow.Writedownwhenthishappens.Opentheovenandagitatethebakingsheettobring

intheouterbeanstothecenter.

5½MINUTES:Thecoffeewillstarttotakeonalightbrowncolor,butthebeanswillstillbesmallandwrinkly.Agitateagainiftheouterbeansaregettingdarkmorequickly.

7OR8MINUTES:Youwillstarthearingthefirstcrack,whichsoundssimilartopopcornpopping.Writedownwhenthishappens.

20TO30SECONDSPASTFIRSTCRACK:Agitatethepan.

45SECONDSPASTFIRSTCRACK(ATAROUND9MINUTES):Fastpoppingmeansthatthecoffeeischangingdramatically.Atthatpoint,it’sjustamatteroftaste.Youwilllearntoassociatetheaccelerandoofthepopswithatasteprofilethatyoueitherenjoyordon’t,and,hence,canadjustinfuturebatches.Towardtheendofthefirstcrack,thepoppingwilldecelerateandtherewillbeamomentofsilencepriortosecondcrack.Themoremomentumtheroasthas,theshorterthemomentwillbebeforesecondcrack.

Takethecoffeeoutbeforeyouthinkit’sdone,justlikeasteak.Itwillcontinuetocookbyvirtueofitsownthermalmass.Preferablyonabackporchorotheroutdoorarea,carefullypourthe

coffeeintooneofthesieves.Holdingbothsievesatarm’slengthandafootortwoapart(seebottomleftphoto,below),pourthecoffeefromonesieveintotheothersieve.Thechaff,whichistheremnantsofthesilverskinbeneaththeparchment,willblowoutasyoupour.Continuepouringtheroastedcoffeebackandforthuntilitfeelsonlywarmtothetouch,ideallynomorethan4minutes.Hopefullyyouhaven’tspilledmuchoranycoffeeduringthecoolingprocess.Assumingyouhaven’t,weighthebeans,subtractthatnumberfromtheinitialweight,anddividethedifferencebythebeginningweighttogetthepercentageofweightlost.Writethatdown,soyoucanstarttrackingthepercentageofweightlost,asthiscorrelatesverystronglywiththedegreeofroasting.Dependingontheroastlevelyouchooseandthetypeofbeansyouuse,

theflavorofyourcoffeewillevolveoverthenext5to10days.Butthere’snoneedtowaitifyou’dliketodrinkitsooner.

CuppingandDescribingCoffeeFlavors

Coffeeroastersspendalotoftimecupping,whichistheindustrytermforevaluativecoffeetasting.Cuppingallowsustoassessandselectcoffeesfromsampleswereceivefrombrokersorgrowers.It’salsohowwedeterminewhatroastingleveltouseforeachvarietyofcoffee.Plus,itallowsustodoqualitycontrolonthecoffeesweroastoverandoveragain.Arepetitiveexercisethatinvolvessniffing,sipping,andslurping,cuppingisa

ritualthatframesourday.Severalofusgettogethertocupatleastonceinthemorningandonceortwicelaterintheday.Afteryou’vebeencuppingforawhile,youdevelopasensitivitytothetiniestdifferencesbetweensamplesofcoffee,evenbetweenbatchesofthesamecoffeeroastedthesamewayondifferentdaysorbydifferentpeople.Therehavebeentimesinthehistoryofcoffeewhencuppingwasmoreabout

findingoutifacoffeehadfaultsbeforebuyingashipmentofit.Didthebagssitinthesunforaweekwhilethefreighterwasdelayed?Isthereanoffflavororaromathatmeansthecoffeewaspoorlyharvestedorprocessed?Butthesedaysmanyroasterscupnotjusttoseewhatfaultscantheycansense,butwhatpositiveattributesarepresent.Theincreasesinavailabilityofgoodinformationfromfarms,easeoftravelingtocountriesoforigin,andaccesstocustomerswillingtopayapremiumforextraordinarycoffeeareresponsibleforthisexcitingshift.Simultaneously,cafésandothervenueshavebeguntoofferpubliccuppings,

andcuppingnoteshavebecomequiteelaborate.It’sbecomeageekysubculture.WhatIlikeaboutcuppingisthatit’ssocial.Inthecoffeeroastingbusiness,you’realwayscuppingwithpeople,bouncingideasoffeachother,andoftencomingtoaconsensus.Whencupping,coffeeprofessionalsusetastedescriptorslikevegetal,

pineapplejuice,orcedar.ButthewaythatItalkabouttheflavorsincoffeetothepublicisinfluencedbymybeliefinthefutilityoflanguagewhenitcomestoadequatelycommunicatingsensoryexperiences.Thisisadirectresultofmyexperienceasamusician.Musiciansaretrainedthroughacombinationoflanguageanddemonstration.Astheyearsprogress,languagestartstostandforasensoryexperience.Butthisprocess(theobjectificationofthesubjective)takesalongtimetodevelop.Ifamusiciannexttomeweretosay,“Thatwastoometallic,”Iwouldknowexactlywhatwasmeant.Butanoutsiderwhohappened

tooverhearthatcommentprobablywouldn’tunderstandthespecificsensoryexperiencewewerereferringto;inthatcontext,thewordmetallicwouldn’tmakesense.Howcouldit?ThelanguagewasattachedtothatsensoryexperienceonlyaftercountlessincidentsinwhichplayingnoteXwithtoneYyieldedmetallic.It’sthesamewiththelanguageofcupping.Icupwithourgreencoffeebuyer

almosteveryday.Ifwebothusethewordcedartodescribesomethingwetasteinacoffee,wehaveasenseofwhatismeantbecausewehavebuiltasharedsensoryvocabularyoveryearsofworkingtogether.ThecuppingformthatweuseforBlueBottlecuppingshasalistofdozensofdescriptorsthatwe’vegrowntounderstandanduseasourcommonsensorylanguage—avocabularythat’sevolvedalongsidecontinuedcupping.Hereareafewexamples:

•TREES:cedar,redwood,holly,pine,fir•CHOCOLATES:dark,white,milk,waxy•FLOWERS:jasmine,rose,lilac,honeysuckle•NUTS:peanuts,almonds,hazelnuts,walnuts•FRUITS:bananas,blueberries,strawberries,honeydewmelon•SPICES:blackpepper,ginger,coriander,vanilla•DEEPLYEVOCATIVEBUTOUTOFTHEBLUE:inflatablepooltoys,Vespaexhaust,Bazookagum,Goodwillstoreleatherjacket

Assumingthatthegeneralpubliccanimmediatelygraspasensoryvocabularythattakestimeandtrainingtodevelopisamistake.IfIusethewordcedarinthelanguageIputonourbagstoselltothepublic,oneoftwothingsisgoingtohappen:eitherpeoplewon’ttastecedarandwillthenthinktheymustbestupid,ortheywon’ttasteitandwillthenthinkImustbestupid.Eitherway,peoplearen’thappyandsomeoneisstupid.SoinsteadofusingcoffeedescriptorslikeChristmasmarzipanordried

PhilippinemangoforBlueBottle’sdescriptionsonlabels,online,andelsewhere,Itellstoriesaboutourcoffeesandtrytocapturewhatkindofstatethecoffeeputsmein—inotherwords,whatitfeelsliketodrinkthecoffee.Idon’tthinkofthisasmarketingortrying,inacalculatedway,tomanufactureadesire.Ithinkofitassharingmyjoyforacoffeeinapersonallymeaningfulway.Givinguponlanguagetoaccuratelycommunicatethetasteofcoffeeis

liberating.Havingdoneso,Icanapproachtheproblemobliquely,asfortheAmaroGayoWashed:

Asabrewedcoffee,theAmaroGayoWashedisaremarkablesonataofbakingspicesandaromaticwoods.Imagineagrandpiano.NowimagineplayingadescendingFmajorarpeggiooverseveraloctaves.Nowimaginethat,insteadofsounds,thepianoproducesalternatingaromasofcinnamon,nutmeg,cedar,andmaple.Nowimaginebuyingabag,goinghome,andmakingacarefulpouroveroftheAmaroGayo.Optional:imaginingslippers,theTimesStylesection,grapefruitmacarons,andnappingIrishsetters.

Alternatively,Icanapproachtheproblemelliptically,loadingupsomanyadjectivesthatcustomersareamused,ordazzled,orinfuriatedattheProustianexcessoflanguage:

Asapourover,theAmaroGayoNaturalexudesanaivesumptuousness.Thearomasofvanilla,weakfruitpunch,andstrawberrylipglosscombinetoplacesomeofusbackatthejuniorprom.Asanespresso,itiscompact,creamy,puzzling,andsomewhatstern,likewatching,atclosequarters,yourunpredictablegrandfathereatingprofiterolesinhisancient,tobacco-smellingcardigan.Itlikescoolertemps,fasterextractions,ounceandaquartershots,cleanliving,andPendereckionthestereo.

Evenifsomepeopledofeelabitinfuriatedorperhapsbemused,atleastnoonefeelsstupid.AspartoftheevaluativelanguageofcoffeeatBlueBottle,wedoascribeobjective-seemingnumbers,basedontheSpecialtyCoffeeAssociationofAmerica’scuppingforms,tocertainattributesofthecoffeewecup.Theirlanguageandsystemevolvedasamethodofattemptingtoimpartiallyevaluatecropsofcoffeesothatforwardcontractsforlargelotsofcoffeecouldhaveawayofensuringaspecific,presumablydesired,qualityforthebuyer.Whiletherearealotofcoffeeprofessionalsthat,once“calibrated”(theindustrytermfor,essentially,beingonthesamepagewitheachother),cangenerallyagreeonrankingacoffeean86comparedtoa90oran82,wearehesitanttotakethissystemoutsidethecuppingroom.Thereasonisthatanobjective-seemingnumericalcuppingscoreisexactlythat:asnapshotofhowacoffeecups,ratherthanhowitmaytasteinaspecificcontext.

WHYYOUNEEDAGRAMSCALE

Throughoutthisbook,wehaveprovidedthevolumemeasuresmostU.S.cooksarefamiliarwith,althoughitisn’tinkeepingwithourownmethodsorourrecommendations.Butyou,Caitlin,andIaregoingtomakeadeal:wewillputvolumemeasurementsinourrecipesifyoupromisetoignorethemandbuyagramscale.Grammeasurementsaremoreaccurate,andwethinkusingthemwillimproveyourexperienceasacoffeedrinkerandbaker—andthereforeimproveyourlife.Solet’sfaceit:youneedtogotheextra

mileandbuyagramscaleifyoudon’talreadyhaveone.Why?Volumeisalessaccuratewayofmeasuringthingsthanmassis.That’snotanopinion;it’sphysics.Considerflour:1cupofsiftedflourweighssignificantlylessthan1cupofunsiftedflour.Anotherclearexampleisbrownsugar:afirmlypackedcupofbrownsugarweighssignificantlymorethanalooselypackedcup.Andclearly,whenroastingandpreparingcoffeeathome,it’sworthwhiletomakeamodestinvestmentinagramscalesoyoucaneasilytrackpercentageofweightlost,andmakeanexcellentpourover.Lookatitthisway:Ifyou’regoingtogotothetroubletobakecakesorroastcoffeeathome,whynotdosoaccurately?Ifyou’regoingtobuygoodcoffeeandattempttomakeitwell,whybeapproximate?EscaliandOxohavesomegoodgram

scales,butwe’repartialtotheAmericanWeighAMW-2,000-gramscale.Itweighstotenthsofagram,hasterrificbatterylife,is

tenthsofagram,hasterrificbatterylife,isrugged,isn’tbad-looking,andhasasettingthatdisablestheauto-offfeaturethatcanfrustratetheslow,deliberatepour-overartistthatsomanyofusstrivetobe.

CuppingatHome

Youcancupathome—butdon’tcupbyyourselfandwriteaboutitontheInternet.Coffeeissocial,andcuppingcoffeeathomeshouldbesomethingyousharewithhumans,preferablyhumansyoulike.Puttingonahomeisaterrificwaytogettoknowwhatkindsofcoffeeyoulikeandlearntoidentifyflavorsandcharacteristics.Thegreatpartaboutcuppingcoffeeisthatitallowsyoutodiscoverthatitisn’tdifficulttodifferentiateamongcoffees.IseeitatBlueBottle’spubliccuppingsallthetime:peopleareastonishedandbeamingwhentheyfindthattheycaneasilydistinguishaBraziliancoffeefromaSumatran.It’sempoweringtorealizethatyouknowmorethanyouthoughtyoudid.Thatsaid,it’sbesttosetyourselfupforsuccessatfirst.Startoutwithnomorethanfourcoffees,allsingle-originsfromdifferentregions.Avoidblends,andalsoavoidextremelydarkroastcoffees,sincehigherroastlevelstendtomaketheorigincharacteristicshardertodiscern.Later,youcangeekoutwithaside-by-sidecuppingofwashedYirgacheffes.Makesuretousewaterthattastesgoodenoughtodrinkonitsown.

WHATYOU’LLNEED•18grams(0.65oz)eachofthreeorfourtypesofcoffeebeans,plus9to20grams(0.3to0.7oz)ofeachforpriming.Inordertocontrolformeasurementorotherprocesserrors,youaregoingtocuptwosamplesofeachcoffee.•Gramscale•Coffeegrinder• 6 to 8 identical porcelain cups that hold 180 to 240milliliters (6 to 8 fl oz) and arepreferablywideratthetop,suchascappuccinocupsorsmallsoupbowls•Good-qualitywater•Soupspoonforeachtaster•Emptydishforthewetgrounds

PRIMETHEGRINDER.Thisstepclearsoutanyremaininggroundsfromanothercoffee.Takeasmallhandful(9g,or0.3ozifyouarereally

dedicatedtoimperialunits)ofthefirstcoffeeyou’recuppingandrunitthroughthegrinder,thenthrowthataway.

GRINDTHECOFFEES.Weighout9grams(0.3oz)ofthefirstcoffeeandgrinditatamedium-coarsesetting,somewherebetweenapour-overgrindandaFrench-pressgrind.Repeatwithoutprimingforthesecondsampleofthatvarietalandplaceanother9gramsinasecondcup.Repeatforeachtypeofcoffee,primingthegrinderbeforegrindingeachvariety.Labelthecups.

SMELL.Takeawhiffofeachdrysamplewithyourmouthopen—thishelpsbringmorearomastothepalate.

ADDWATER.Heatabout50fluidounces(1.47l)waterto205°F(96°C),usingakettleorothervesselthatisusedonlyforheatingwater.Slowlypourthehotwaterovereachsample.Pourtosamelevelineachcup.ThecuppingratioweuseatBlueBottleis17partswaterto1partcoffee,soyou’llneedabout150gramsofwaterforeachsamplecuptofollowourratioprecisely.Conveniently,1gramofwateris1milliliterofwaterbyvolume,sothatcomesto150milliliters(5floz)ofwaterpercup.Letsit3to5minutes.Meanwhile,placethesoupspoonsinatallglassandfillwiththeremaininghotwater.

SMELLAGAIN.Afterpouringthewater,smelleachsampleagainwithyournose1inch(2.5cm)abovethecup.(Ialmostalwaysgetcoffeeonmynose.)Trytonotethedifferencesandsimilarities.Havethearomasofthedrycoffeechangedinanyway?It’seasiertocompareandcontrastthantocomeupwithbrilliantobservationslike“Ismellolives.”

BREAKTHECRUST.Afterthecoffeehasbrewedfor3to5minutes,breakthroughthelayerofcoffeegroundsthathasformedontop,whichistrappingmostofthearomas.Usethespoontobreakthroughthecrustandawayfromyou,releasingasmuchtrappedgasaspossible.Asyoubreak,inhaledeeply,againwithyournosetothebowl.Rinseyourspoonintheglassofhotwaterbetweencoffeessoyoudon’tcross-contaminatethesamples.

REMOVETHECRUST.Usingoneortwospoons,scoopoffthetopcrustandputinadish.Trytoremoveallofthecoffeegroundsfromthesurfaceso

theydon’tendupinyourmouth.Forverylightroasts,mostofthegroundcoffeewillsinktothebottom,sotherewon’tbemuchtoscoop.Again,besuretorinsethespoonsbetweencoffees.

TASTE.Takeaspoonfulofcoffeeandslurpsharply.Thisaspiratescoffeeoveryourpalate,helpingbringinalloftheflavorsandaromas.(Inthetraditionalmachismoofthecuppingroom,whoeverslurpstheloudestisthebaddest,soworkonyourloudslurp.)Payattention,compare,andcontrast,butdon’tshareyourthoughtswithothersuntilthey’redonetasting.Ifyousay,“Interesting…roastedbananas,”everyonewillsay,“Exactly!Bananas!”

REPEAT.Gothroughseveralroundsoftastingasthecoffeecools.You’regoingtonoticenewthingseachtime.Thisprocessalsohelpsyourealizethatpipinghotcoffeemaynotalwaysbethemostinterestingorflavorful.

DRINK

Ibelievecoffeeshouldbepreparedonecupatatimeandconsumedrightaway,nomatterwhattechniqueyouchose.Themostlow-techwaytomakecoffee,andoneofmyfavoritemethods,isthepourover.Itfeelselemental,sortoflikecookingoveranopenflame:justcoffee,water,acone,andafilter.Yougrindthecoffee,weighit,putitinthecone,andpourwateroverit—slowlysothecoffeehasenoughtimetoabsorbthewaterandthewatercanextractthecorrectsolublesfromthecoffee.AtBlueBottle,weputalotofenergyintopour-overcoffeeinourcafés,andI

dothesameinthisbookbecauseit’soneofthemostbasic,approachable,andeffectivewaystomakeabeautifulcupofcoffee.Butwhetheryouaremakingapouroveroranespresso,theelementalprocessisextraction—whichsimplymeanshotwaterdissolvingthecompoundsthatareinroastedcoffee.Firstthegrinderbreaksthecoffeebeansdownintomuchsmallerpieceswithvaryingsurfaceareas.Thenthesesurfaceareasareexposedtohotwater.Thehotwaterdissolvesparticlesfromthecoffeegrounds’exposedsurfacearea,creatingbrewedcoffee.Ifthegroundcoffeeisunderextracted,you’llmissoutonalotofflavor,andifit’soverextracted,watermayleachunpleasantpropertiesoutofthecoffeethatmaskitsdeliciousness.Howthecoffeeisground,thewatertemperature,andtheamountoftimethegroundcoffeeisexposedtowaterareallcrucialfactorsinextraction.Inthischapter,I’llshowyouhowtoworktowardmasteringthosevariablesforafewrecommendedmethodsofpreparingcoffee.I’llexplainhowtomakebeautifulpour-overcoffee,step-by-step.I’llalso

explainhowtochooseagrinder,useaneldrip,andasiphon,andevenanibrikforTurkishcoffee,ifyoudecidetoexplorethosemethods.ThenI’lldelveintothemurkywatersoftryingtowriteaboutmakingespresso.Youmaynotleavethediscussionconvincedthatyoushouldbuyahomeespressomachine.Butifyouchoosetogothatroute,I’lltellyouhowbesttodoit.Makingcoffeeisasimpleart,yetitalsohassomanyaspects:practice,

precision,andthesheerpleasureofmakingsomethingyouknowyou’regoingtoenjoy.It’sanexpandinguniverseofwonderfulness;youneverrunoutofthingstogetbetterat.

togetbetterat.

BrewedCoffeeTechniques

Wouldyoucookagoodsteakinthemicrowave?Whywouldyouletamachinemakeyourcoffee?Lettingamachinebrewyourcoffeeislikeputtingpopcorninamicrowaveandpressing“popcorn.”Ittakesthepowerawayfromyou.Ifyoubuygoodcoffeeandwanttoprepareitwell,youhavetochooseamethodthatletsyouexpressyourdedication,skill,andenthusiasm.Plug-inbrewersarenotthatmethod.Mostplug-incoffeebrewersdon’theatthewatersufficientlyforoptimum

brewing,andtheytendtoleachoff-flavorsfromthecheapplastictubingtypicallyused.Eventhebestofthesemachinesgiveyounocontroloverflowrateanddispersionpatterns,resultinginsomeareasofthegroundsbeingoverextractedandothersbeingunderextracted.Ingeneral,thegroundsdon’tgetfullysaturated,andthebrewbasketisusuallytoosmalltoaccommodateenoughfreshcoffee,whichtendstoexpandmuchmorewhenwetthanoldercoffee.Plus,theybrewtooquicklytoextractthemostdeliciousflavorsfromthecoffee.Thenthecoffeesitsandcooksonahotplateorgetsstaleinathermalcarafe,destroyinganyflavorthemachinemanagedtoobtain.Itmakesmesadtothinkabouthowmanymillionsofpeoplestarttheirday

thisway,especiallybecausethecraftofmakingreallygoodbrewedcoffeewithsimpletoolsisimmenselysatisfying.Althoughtheequipmentissimple,you’llstillneedtoinvestinafewtools.Youneedgooddata,soyouneedtoolsthatmeasure:agramscale(seeWhyYouNeedaGramScale)andanaccuratethermometerorthermocouple.Availableatsomehardwarestores,athermocoupleisanelectronictemperaturesensorthat’susedinscienceandindustryfortestingthetemperatureofovensandairconditioning.Youneedtohavecontroloveryourwatersupply,andapouringkettlewithafinespout(alsocalledaswan-neckedkettle)istheperfecttoolforthejob.Youneedtocontroltheparticlesizeofyourgroundcoffeeandthereforemusthaveagoodgrinder(discussedindetailhere).Youalsoneedaceramicdripperandgood-qualityfiltersforbasicpour-overcoffee.Shouldyouchoosetoexploreotherbrewingmethods(Frenchpress,neldrip,siphon,orTurkish),you’llalsoneedthedevicesspecifictothosemethods.And,ofcourse,youneedasupplyofclean,fresh,good-tastingwater.Dependingonwhereyoulive,youmaybeabletofindmostofthesetools

locally.Ifnot,thankstothewondersoftheInternet,youcanpurchaseeventhemostarcanecoffeetoolsonline(andsomeofthetoolswerecommendmost

mostarcanecoffeetoolsonline(andsomeofthetoolswerecommendmosthighlyareavailableatBlueBottle’sonlineshop).Ifyou’dlikesomeguidanceonbrands,herearesomewerecommend:

•GRAMSCALE:AmericanWeigh,Escali,Oxo•THERMOCOUPLETHERMOMETERS:Extech,Honeywell,Taylor,Cole-Parmer•SWAN-NECKKETTLES:Hario,Takahiro,Kono,Kalitta•DRIPPERS:Bonmac,Melitta,Kono,Hario•FILTERS:Bonmac,Hario,Kono,Filtropa•FRENCHPRESSES:Bodom,Freiling,Espro•NELDRIPSETUPS:Hario,Kono•SIPHONCOFFEEDEVICES:Hario(alsobrandedBonmac),Yama

POUROVER

SometimesIteachclasseswhereIdemonstrateBlueBottle’spour-overmethod,allowingpeopletoseehowsimpleitisandhowthecoffeetastessomuchbetterthanwhatcomesoutofaplug-inmachine.Whenyouusethismethodregularly,everydayyougetslightlybetteratthepour,andeventuallyyougettothepointwhereyoucansmellthesubtledifferencesfromonecuptothenext.Overtheyears,BlueBottle’spour-overmethodhaschanged.Abitlater,I’ll

giveyouarecipebasedonexperimentsIdidstartingin2007,afterwatchingthemethodofJayEgami,acoffeeexpertwithUCCUeshimaCoffeeCo.,headquarteredinKobe,Japan(seemoreonJay).WhenIfirstsawJaypouringsoslowly,usingexactamountsofcoffeeweighedtothegramandwaterheatedtoanexacttemperature,Iadmittothinkingitwouldbetoohard,evenridiculous,tousethosemethodsinBlueBottle’skiosk.Ofcourse,myskepticismdidn’tstopmefromdrinkinghiscoffee,andwhenIdid,Ibecameaninstantconvert.Ithinkyouwilltoo.Althoughthepour-overrecipecoversthebasics,likemanyrecipesitraises

morequestionsthanitanswers.Thisactuallyshouldn’tcomeasasurprise,giventhateventhesimplestmethodofmakingcoffeecanyieldseeminglyinfinitevariationsintastedependingonhowvariousfactorsaremanipulated.Thatmightsoundalittleoverwhelming,butaswithsomanythingsinlife,theimportantthingisjusttodiveinanddoit.Makecoffeesimply,tasteit,enjoyit,andseehowyou’dliketoimproveit.Youcantakenotesifyou’refeelinggeeky,oryoucanjustremember.Yourintuitionwilleventuallyleadyoutodiscoverwhatyoufindmostdelicious.Allofthatsaid,let’stakealookatsomeofthequestionsthepour-overrecipemayraise.

HOWMUCHCOFFEE?Iliketoexpresstheamountofcoffeeusedasaratio.For example, 350milliliters (about 12 fl oz) ofwater to 35 grams (1.2 oz) ofcoffee would be a brewing ratio of 10 to 1. The correct ratio, like manyquestionsinthecoffeeworld,isthesubjectofconsiderabledebate.Althoughit’shotlycontested, it isultimatelydecidedonpurelysubjectivegrounds.The realquestion is,what brewing ratiowill you enjoymost?The truth is, consideringbrewing ratio in isolationdoesn’tmake sensebecause the relationships amongbrewingratio,watertemperature,extractionspeed,andparticlesizecombinetoinfluencetheflavorsinthecup.ButIcanofferacoupleofguidelinesonbrewratio.

GRINDERSFOREVERYTHINGBUTESPRESSO

Purchasingonlywholebeancoffeeandgrindingitathomeisoneofthesurestwaystoimproveyourcoffeeexperience.Soifyoudon’talreadyhaveagrinder,Ihighlyrecommendthatyoubuyone.Now.AtBlueBottle,weonlysellwholebeans,

eventhoughwetakesomeheatforthedecision.Thereareseveralreasonsforthis,butthemostcompellingistheincrediblefragilityofgroundcoffee.AsmentionedintheRoastchapter,there’sacleardeclineinthetasteandperformanceofespressojustninetysecondsaftergrinding.Morecoarselygroundcoffeeisn’tasfragile,butthereisasubstantialdifferenceafteranhouroreventwentyminutes.Solet’sassumeyouaregoingtogrindyour

coffeeathome,and(fornow)thatyouarebrewingcoffee,notmakingespresso.(Seemoreinformationonespressogrinders.)Whenbrewingcoffee,youhavesomeleewayinthetypeofgrinderyouuse,especiallyifyouareusingadripperandpaperfilters.Grindersinthestyleofaspicemill,withwhirlyblades,arethecheapest.Theprimaryvirtueofthesegrindersisthat,foraverymodestinvestment,youcanbreakfreefrombuyingpregroundcoffee.However,youwillneverbeabletogetaconsistentgrind.Never.Theparticleswillrangeinsizefrompowdertochunks,andyourcoffeewillnotbegroundthesamefromonedaytothenext.Youcangetaslightlymoreevengrindbyemploying

the“pulseandshake”method:pulsingfor2to3secondswhileshakingthegrinder,thenpausingbrieflysothecoffeedoesn’theatuptoomuch,thenpulsingagain,andsoon,untilyouachieveroughlythedesiredgrind.However,ifyou’rebrewingcoffeeina

Frenchpress,neldrip,orsiphon,ormakingTurkishcoffee,awhirlybladegrinderwillbeasourceoffrustration.Becausethesegrindersdon’tproduceaconsistentparticlesize,thesmallerparticleswilloverextractandthelargerparticleswillunderextract.Thisinconsistentextractionmakesforanunreliableandoftenunpleasantresult.Therefore,forthesestylesofcoffee,youneedanadjustablegrinderthatwillreliablyproduceparticlesofapproximatelyequalsize—aburrgrinder.Thisstyleofgrindercrushesthebeansbetweentwometaldisks(calledburrs)withsharpridgesthatspinatspeedsof500to1,500rpm,withthedistancebetweentheburrsbeingadjustabletoaveryfinedegree.Allburrgrindersarenotcreatedequal.

Therearebothelectricandhand-crankedmodels,andthehand-crankedgrindersoftenhaveveryhigh-qualityceramicburrsinsteadofmetal.Thishasupsidesanddownsides.Ceramicburrsstaysharpmuchlongerthanmetalburrsandareeasiertoclean,buttheyaremorefragile.Hand-crankedmodelsaregreatfortravelingbutoftenrequiremorethan250turnstogrindenoughcoffeeforoneserving.ManufacturerssuchasPorlex,Hario,andZassenhaushavegoodhand-crankedburrgrindersforlessthan$100,soyoucanalsosavemoneybyagreeingtobethemotor.Good-qualityelectricburrgrinders

typicallycostfrom$100to$300.Selectagrinderwithlargergrindingburrs,heavier

grinderwithlargergrindingburrs,heavieroverallweight,andalowerrpmmotor.Thehighertherpmofthemotor,thegreaterthetendencytoheatthecoffee,whichcausesinconsistenciesingrindsizeandalsorunstheriskoflosingsomeflavor.Alsolookforlargernumbersofgrindsettingsor,forthemostflexibility,asteplessgrinder,whichallowsyoutoadjustthegrindsizewithoutbeinglockedintospecificsettings.

Darker-roastedcoffeesgenerallybenefitfromnarrower,ortighter,brewingratios(meaningsmalleramountsofwaterperagivenamountofcoffee).Theyalsobenefitfromlargerparticlesize,morerecentroasting,andlower-temperaturewater.FortwoofthemostpopularblendsBlueBottleserves,whichareonthedarkerside,welikea10-to-1brewingratioonthesecondthroughfifthdayafterroasting,with188°F(87°C)water.Incontrast,withdense,veryhigh-altitude,meticulouslyharvestedandprocessedsingle-origincoffeesroastedverylightly,we’vefoundthatawiderbrewingratio,hotterwater,andalongerresttimedrawsoutthemostenjoyableflavors.Howhavewediscoveredthis?Trialanderror,andalotofmeticulousnotetakinginourlab.InJapan,a10-to-1brewingratioisprettystandard,butI’veseenratiosanywherefrom4to1to15to1,withthecombinationofbrewingratio,pouringtechnique,brewing

to1,withthecombinationofbrewingratio,pouringtechnique,brewingtemperature,andcontacttimecomingtogethertocreatethesought-aftertasteandtexture.

WHICHDRIPPER ISBEST?There are a fewoptions in drippers: the single-hole dripper, the three-hole dripper, and the big-hole dripper. We like theceramic single-hole drippersmade by Bonmac. This lets the coffee spend theoptimalamountoftimeincontactwiththewater.InallofmytravelsinJapan,thecafésthatI’vebeenthemostconsistentlyinspiredbyhaveusedthistypeofdripper.Itissimple,inexpensive,old-fashioned,andhasbeentestedbydecadesofuse.Thedripperswitha largehole(oftenmadebyHarioandreferredtobythe model name V60) are experiencing an uptick in popularity in the UnitedStates, primarily (in my opinion) because they produce a cup of coffeemorequickly. The downside is that it’s very difficult, though not impossible, tocontrol thepour so thewater spendsenough time incontactwith thecoffee. Ihaven’t been to a single café in Japan that uses V60s. Kono drippers aresuperficially similar to the Hario V60s in that they have a large hole at thebottom,buttheyhaveadifferentinteriorgeometrythattendstomakeextractingexcellentcoffeeeasierandmorerepeatable.

HOW FAST SHOULD THE EXTRACTION BE? I generally like a totalbrewing time of 3 to 3½minutes, which works out to about 1.5 seconds permilliliter.While it’s fairlyobvious thatyoucanvary theextraction rateby thespeedatwhichyoupour,grind size is also a factor.A finergrindwill extractmore slowly, regardless of the rate atwhichyoupour.Extractionwill also beslower ifyou’reusingagrinder thatproducesa lotof fines,powderyparticlesthatcanclogtheporesofthefilter.

SHOULDYOUPOURCLOCKWISEORCOUNTERCLOCKWISE?Inregardto the direction inwhichwater should be poured, at theUeshimaCoffee Co.AcademyinJapan,theadamantanswerisclockwise.Alwaysclockwise.Inyourownkitchen, this rule is flexible.For homecoffee-making classes, I don’t gettoohunguponclockwiseorcounterclockwise.Butwhenthesubjectcomesup,some guy—and it’s always a guy—wryly chuckles about pouringcounterclockwiseinAustralia.Don’tbethatguy.

WHAT TEMPERATURE OFWATER SHOULD BE USED? Generally, thelightertheroast,thehotterwateryouwanttopour,uptoamaxofabout205°F(96°C).Awiderwater-to-coffeeratioandafinergrindmayalsoindicatethatahigher temperature will yield more delicious results. But some of the most

memorable coffees I’ve ever tasted in Japan have been darker-roast coffeesmadeusingsmallbrewingratios,largeparticlesize,andextremelylowbrewingtemperatures—175°F(79°C).Generally,waterthatisbetween190°Fand205°F(88°Cand96°C)yields thebest results,but experimenting is a funpartof theprocess. As a rule, the longer the extraction period, the lower the watertemperatureshouldbe.Otherwiseyouriskheatdamagingthecoffee.

CONDIMENTS:THELOVETHATDARENOTSPEAKITSNAME?

Alotofyoumaybeinthehabitofaddingcreamorsugar,orboth,toyourcoffee.Iamgoingtoaskyoutodoasimplebutradicalthing:Tasteyourcoffeebeforeyouaddanythingtoit.Justtasteit.Everytime.Noticewhatflavorsarethere,thennoticehowtheflavorschangeafteryouaddyourcondiments.Thenyouhavemypermissiontoaddanythingyouwant.Ifyouusuallydrinkacaffelatte,everyso

oftenaskforalattewithanespressoontheside.Tastetheespressofirst,thentryyourlatte.Howdoesthemilkmediateyourexperience?Whatdoesitadd?Whatdoesittakeaway?Themoreyoufamiliarizeyourselfwithwhatawell-crafteddrinkmadefromwell-roastedcoffeetasteslike,themoreyoumightbeinterestedindrinkinganentirecupofblackcoffee.Isitsomehowmorallysuperiortodrinkcoffeeblack?I’mnotgoingtotouchthatone.Butblackcoffeehasalotgoingforit:it’ssimpler,it’spurer,andit’slesscaloric.It’sallcoffee.

Pour-OverCoffee

Pour-OverCoffee

MAKES1SERVING,ABOUT10FLUIDOUNCES(300ML)

Thetwoindispensabletoolsformakingbetterpour-overcoffeeareagramscaleandaswan-neckedkettle.Usingaswan-neckedkettlewillhelptheaccuracyofyourpourand,hence,improvetheconsistencyofyourextraction.Somepeoplemightrebelatpaying$50forakettle,buthowmanypeoplehavepaidforapizzastonetheyneveruseoranicecreammakerthatlivesinthebackofakitchencabinet?Ifyoubuyagramscaleandkettle,you’llusethemeveryday,andyou’lldrinkbettercoffeealmostimmediately.Everymorningyourfirstthoughtswillcoalescearoundmakingsomethingwonderful.Yourfriendswillbegyoutomakethemcoffeeandshareyourmastery.It’smoneywellspent.Acoffeemugusuallyholdsaround10fluidounces.We’regoingtocall

that300milliliters.Conveniently,1milliliterofwater(ameasurementofvolume)equals1gram(ameasurementofweight).So,armedwiththissecretknowledge,youcanproceedknowingthatpouringonatared(zeroed)gramscaletellsyounotonlytheweightofthewater,butthevolumeofwateryou’vepoured.Ifyouemployatimeraswell,you’llhaverelevantinformationaboutflowrateandextractiontime.Andifyouaddathermometer,youcanalsocollectdataabouttemperatureofextraction.Datapoints,beforebreakfast!

WHATYOU’LLNEED•About20fluidounces(2½cups/590ml)good-qualitywater•Swan-neckedkettle•Gramscale•20to35grams(0.7to1.2oz)coffeebeans•Coffeegrinder•Thermocoupleorotherthermometer•Ceramiccoffeedripper•Coffeecup•Paperfilter(kenaforbamboo-basedpaperisbest)

Youwillneed10fluidounces(300ml)ofgood-qualitywaterforyourcoffee,soputdoublethatamountinakettleorothervesselusedonlyforheatingwater.Whydouble?Becauseyou’llusesomeofthewatertopreheatthedripperandcup.Putthekettleoverhighheat.Whilethewaterisheating,weighoutthecoffee;theamountdependson

thebrewingratioyou’lluse,from20gramsfora15-to-1ratioto30gramsfora10-to-1ratio.Grindthecoffeefinelyenoughthatitformsaclumpwhenpressedbetweenyourthumbandforefinger;itshouldfeelsoftbutstillabitgritty.Grindsizeandevennessisoneofthefewimmeasurablefactors—atleastathome.Attheroastery,wemeasureparticlesizeanddistributionofthepowderyparticlescalledfineswhenevaluatinggrinders,butathomeintuitionrules.Changeitupandtrydifferentsettingstofindoneyoulike.Whenthewatercomestoaboil,pouritintotheswan-neckedkettle,thenletitsituntilthetemperatureisbetween185°Fand205°F(85°Cand96°C).(Yourchoiceofwatertemperatureshouldbebasedonthetypeofcoffeeandroastlevelthatyou’reserving.)Warmtheceramicdripperandcupwithsomeoftheremaininghotwater.Putthefilterinthedripperandpourinthegroundcoffee.Thecoffee

shouldnaturallytaketheshapeofagentlemound.Placeyournow-emptybutwarmcuponyourgramscale,setthecoffee-filledceramicdripperontop,andtarethescale.Gentlyandslowlydrizzleasmallamountofhotwaterinthecenterofthe

moundofcoffee,awayfromthesidesofthefilterandmakingacircleaboutthesizeofaquarter.Thegoalistopourinjustenoughwaterthatthecoffeewillabsorballofitwithoutanyliquiddrippingintoyourcup.Coffeegenerallyholdsdoubleitsweightinwater.Thisiseasytocheckifyourcup,dripper,andcoffeeassemblageissetuponyourgramscale.Forexample,ifyouhave35grams(1.2oz)ofgroundcoffeeinthefilterandhavetaredthescale,addwateruntilthescalereads70grams(2.5oz).Voilà!Pouringin

scale,addwateruntilthescalereads70grams(2.5oz).Voilà!Pouringinwaterinsuchawaythatnonecomesoutisaskill.Thebetteryouareatsoakingthecoffeemassevenly,thenthemorewateritwillabsorb.Canyoupourtwicetheweightofthegroundcoffeeamountwithoutanydripping?1.75times?2.25times?Youcantakesatisfactionfromdoingthiswell,butitisn’tjustageeky

finepoint;ithasanimpactonthecoffeeyoubrew.Itfacilitatesblooming,theprocessinwhichhotwatercausesthecoffeetoexpandoutwardinafascinatingway.Allowittobloomfor30to45seconds,orupto60secondsforcoffeeroastedover1weekpreviously.Aslightlylongerbloomingtimecanaddalotofdepthandvitalitytooldercoffee.Pourinmorewater,onceagainpouringslowlyinasmallcircularpattern

inthemiddleofthefilter.Alight-browncapshouldrise;atBlueBottlewecallit“themushroom.”Thepaceofyourpourshouldbeapproximatelyequivalenttothespeedatwhichcoffeeisflowingoutofthefilterintoyourcup;inotherwords,thelevelofthemixtureofcoffeeandwaterinthefiltershouldneitherriseorfall.Furthermore,thelevelofthemushroomshouldbemaintainedatjustabouttwo-thirdsupthesidesofthecone.Aimforsomewherebetween1and2milliliters(¼to½teaspoon)ofwaterpersecond.Thereare15millilitersin1tablespoon,sothat’sabout1tablespoonper7to15seconds.Remember,extractionrateisdeterminedbymanyvariablesbeyondhow

fastyoupour:amountofcoffee,grindsize,percentageoffines,andwatertemperature.Sothepourcontributestothespeedoftheextractionbutdoesn’tdefineit.Don’tbefrustratedifyoucan’tpourslowlyandsteadilyrightaway.It’saskill.Justkeeppracticing.Onceyou’vepouredthedesiredamountofwater,removethedripper.

Thecoffeewilltastebetterifyoudon’tletallthewaterflowthroughthefilterintothecup.Attheendofthebrewingcycle,youarestartingtoextractsomeundesirablecompoundsfromthecoffee;keepingthoseawayfromthecoffeeyouaredrinkingwillproduceamoredeliciousproduct.Drinkyourcoffee,andmarvelatyourdedicationandskill.Repeatas

needed.

FRENCHPRESSCOFFEE

BecauseaFrenchpressyieldscoffeethatisn’tfilteredthroughpaper,ithasthehearty“that’srichcoffee”qualitythatFrenchpressenthusiastssoadmire.Forthatreason,theFrenchpresstendstoproducecoffeewellsuitedtotheadditionofcondiments.Addingcreamactuallysmoothesoutthesedimentaryfeel.Condimentsaside,ifyouvaluethickbodyaboveallelseincoffee,theFrenchpressisgoingtoremainyourbrewingmethodofchoice.OnecautionwiththeFrenchpressisthatthelackofapaperfiltermakesthis

methodparticularlyvulnerabletooverextraction.Therearemanymoreparticlesinsolution,andcompoundsinthoseparticlescontinuetobeextractedoverthelifeofthecup.Therefore,youshouldpourFrenchpresscoffeeoutofthepotimmediatelyafterplunginganddrinkitassoonaspossible.It’sneveragoodideatoholdanycoffeeonahotplateorinacarafe,butholdingFrenchpresscoffeeforanylengthoftimehasparticularlyhorribleresults.ThiscontinualextractionkeepsFrench-presscoffeefromcoolingasdelightfullyassiphonorpour-overcoffeeingeneral.Overall,thefewerparticlesinsuspension,thebetterthecoffeewilltasteasitcools.However,removingsomeofthegroundsbeforeplunging,anoptionIoutlineonthefollowingpage,canhelpalleviate,butnoteliminate,thatproblem.

FrenchPressCoffee

Foreach355milliliters(12floz)ofwater,use20to35grams(0.7to1.2oz)ofgroundcoffee,usingmorecoffeeifbrewingadarker-roastcoffeeoraddingcondiments.Fordenser,lighter-roastedcoffeeorservingwithoutcondiments,Irecommendtheslotted-spoonmethodforremovinggroundspriortoplunging,withabrewingratioofabout12to1,whichtranslatestoabout28grams(1oz)ofcoffeeper355ml(12floz)ofwater.

WHATYOU’LLNEED•Good-qualitywater•Gramscale•Coffeebeans•Coffeegrinder,preferablyaburrgrinder•Thermocoupleorotherthermometer•Frenchpress•Chopstickorwoodenspoon•Timer•Medium-sizeslottedspoon(optional)

Howevermuchfinishedcoffeeyouwishtobrew,putdoublethatamountofgood-qualitywaterinakettleorothervesselusedonlyforheatingwater.(You’llusesomeofthewatertopreheattheemptyFrenchpressandcup.)Whilethewaterisheating,weighoutthecoffee;theamountdependson

thebrewingratioyou’lluse,foreach355-milliliter(12floz)serving,usefrom20gramsfora15-to-1ratioto35gramsfora10-to-1ratio.Grindthecoffee—nottoofinely.Thegrindshouldbegritty,resemblingbeachsandthat’spleasanttowalkon,butnottoopowdery.Whenthewaterishotbutnotquiteboiling,atabout198°F(92°C),

removeitfromtheheat.PoursomeofthehotwaterintotheemptyFrenchpresstowarmitup.Afterafewseconds,pourthewaterfromtheFrenchpressintoyourcuptowarmitaswell.Putthegroundcoffeeinthepresspotandpourtheamountofwater

desiredinathinstreamoverthegrounds.Gentlystirthecoffeewiththechopstick.Placethestemonthepotwiththefilterabout½inch(1.3cm)abovethegrounds.Letthecoffeesteepfor3minutes.Removethestem,andforafull-bodiedfinalresult,brieflyandgentlystir

withachopstick.Forafiner-bodiedcoffee,don’tstir;instead,useamedium-sizeslottedspoontoremovethecoffeegroundsfromthetopofthepot.

pot.Replacethestemandgentlypushthegroundsdowntothebottomofthe

pot.Iftheplungerthunkstothebottomwithalmostnoresistance,yourgrindistoocoarse.Ifyouhavetostraintogettheplungertothebottomofthepot,yourgrindistoofine.Usingtoofineagrindcanbedangerous.Ifthestemtorquesasyou’rewrestlingwithit,near-boilingwaterandcoffeegroundscouldsprayalloveryou.Ideally,theplungerwilllowersmoothlyandgraduallywith15to20pounds(6.8to9.1kg)ofpressure.Ifyou’renotsurewhatthatfeelslike,pressdownonyourbathroomscalewiththeflatofyourhanduntilthescalereads20pounds(9.1kg).Itshouldtake15to20secondstopushtheplungertothebottom.Whenyouhavepushedtheplungerdownasfardownasitwillgo,serve

immediately.

COFFEEINJAPAN,CHATEIHATOU,ANDNELDRIPJapan’scoffeecultureisoneofthemostrefinedintheworld,andithashadahugeinfluenceonwhatwedoatBlueBottle.Japanhasalongtraditionofmanualbrewing,especiallysiphonandpour-over

coffee.Thecountry’shistorywithcoffeestartedinthemid-1800s,duringthelateEdoperiod.ContactwithallWesternersexcepttheDutchwasforbidden,andamongtheJapanese,onlymerchants(andprostitutes)couldmeetwiththeDutch,andonlyinthecityofNagasaki.TheDutchintroducedtheJapanesetocoffeefromtheirholdingsinJava,andtheloveofartisanshipthattookrootinJapanduringtheextendedpeaceoftheEdoperiodmadeitswaytothenewculturesurroundingcoffee.DuringtherapidindustrializationthatoccurredintheMeijiperiod(1868to

1912),coffeeassumedgreaterprominenceinJapanesesociety.ToprotectJapan’ssovereignty,whichwasthreatenedbyunfavorabletreatiesforceduponitbytheWest,JapanesesocietyenteredanintenseperiodofindustrializationandmilitarizationandbeganembracingWesternvaluesasawaytobemorecompetitive.WearingEuropeanattireandadoptingotherWesternpractices,likedrinkingcoffeeandbuildingbattleships,becamesocietalimperatives.Japan’scaféculturefirstblossomedinthe1920s,butwascutshortduring

WorldWarIIduetoaneight-yearcoffeeembargo.Itgotgoingagaininthelate1940sandearly1950s.Eventoday,Japanhassomeofthemostmeticulousandelegantcafésintheworld.IhaveneverbeentosomanycafésasdedicatedtocompletemasteryoveralltherelevantdetailsofcoffeepreparationandservicethaninTokyo,Kyoto,andKobe.ThereareterriblecafésinJapan,likeanywhereelse,butthegreatcafésdemonstratetheirgreatnessinsuchmodest,perfect

else,butthegreatcafésdemonstratetheirgreatnessinsuchmodest,perfectways.ThebestcafésinJapan,unlikethebestcafésintheUnitedStates,areold,

fusty,andunfashionable.Theyhavenoespressomachinesand,forthatmatter,verylittleequipmentbeyondafewinductionburnerstoheatwaterinbigkettles.Theclienteleisprimarilypeopleintheirfiftiesandsixties.Themenwearjackets,oriftheywearcardigans,theywearthemunironically.Classicalmusicisonthestereo,andthevolumeishushed.Thefurniture,liketheclientele,isusuallydark,gloomy,quiet,anddignified.ManyofthebestcafésarehardforaWesternertofind,locateddownsidestreetsandonupperfloors,andtheycanalsobedifficultforWesternerstonavigate,withsignsandmenusinJapaneseonly.Oneofmyfavoritecafésinalltheworld,ChateiHatou,islikethis.It’snear

ShibuyaStationinTokyo,notapromisinglocationforsuchunexpectedexcellenceandbeauty.Theareaaroundthetrainstationispackedwithfashionableyoungpeople,electronicsstores,pachinkoparlors,ramenshops,andwhatisrumoredtobetheworld’shighest-grossingStarbucks.Butjustafewblocksaway,thedindiesdownalittle.Ifyoucanfindit,andifit’sopen(thesetypesofcafésgenerallykeephoursthatweintheWestthinkarealittlestrange,betweenaround11a.m.and11p.m.),it’spossibletoenteratinycornerofcalmperfection.I’vebeentherelessthanadozentimes,butitoccupiesanimmenselysignificantplaceinmyapproachtomakinganddrinkingcoffee.I’msureIthinkaboutChateiHatoueverysingleworkingday.EverytimeIgotoChateiHatou,I’mfilledwithanexhaustingcombinationof

elationanddespondency:elationbecauseIamparticipatinginextraordinary,matchless,unnecessaryexcellence,anddespondencybecause,althoughIaspiretoproduceanexperienceofsuchrarifiedperfection,Imayneverbesmartenoughorhardworkingenoughtofigureouthowtodoitmyself.Thefirststepistoenter.Theexperienceofenteringisambiguous.Sit,orwaittobetoldtosit?Ithink

theemployeestendtoassumethatWesternerswillrealizetheyarelostorbedisappointedtofindthattheyaren’tintherightplace.SotheytendtogiveWesternersafewmomentstofigureitout.WhentheyseemsatisfiedthatCaitlinandIhaveindeeddecidedthatwearenot,infact,lost,andthat,furthermore,thisisthecaféperhapsaboveallothersintheentireworldwherewewouldwanttodrinkcoffee,theyusuallymotionforustosit.Therearetables,andthereisalongbarthatseatstwelve.Webegwithoureyestobeseatedatthebar.Onthewallbehindthebararedozensanddozensofdelicatemismatched

chinacupsandsaucers.It’sabewilderingarray:RoyalDoulton,Wedgwood,Japanesebrands,inawidevarietyofcolorsandpatterns,somecommemorating

Japanesebrands,inawidevarietyofcolorsandpatterns,somecommemoratingtheweddingofPrincessDi,ortheBeatles’lastconcertinTokyo,insizesrangingfrom60to240milliliters(¼to1cup).WearehandedamenuinJapanese,sothebestwecandoiscalloutthename

ofavarietalorcoffee-growingregion:Mandheling?Ethiopia?Tanzania?Thenweattempttocommunicateastyle:Paperdrip?Demitasse?AtChateiHatou,demitasse-stylecoffeemeansneldrip,andthatmeanscoffeefilteredthroughaflannelsacksuspendedfromawirehoop.Thismethodproducesacoffeeofextraordinarydensityandthemostlapidarysweetnessduetoatightbrewingratio,extremelylowbrewingtemperature,andavery,veryponderousextractionregimen.(Readmoreaboutneldrip.)Theremightbepricesonthemenu,butit’sbetternottothinkaboutthem.A

coffeeherecouldrunupwardof$15.Tokyoisanexpensivetown,andit’spossibletobuyabadcappuccinoataDoutorCaféfortheequivalentof$4orcannedcoffeefromavendingmachinefor$1.Inthatlight,life-changingperfectionfor$15isabargain.Andwemusthavecake!Tokyoispackedwithpatisseriesandcafésthatservecakeandcoffeetoenthusiasticcrowdseverydayaround2p.m.ChateiHatouisknownforitschiffoncake,sowepointandhope.Onceourorderiscommunicated,thebaristatakesalong,hardlookatus,then

turnshisbackandstudieshiswallofchinacups.Hisbodylanguageseemstobesaying,“Whichone?Outofthesehundredcups,whichcupsarepreciselycorrectforthesecustomers,atthistime,andthecoffeestobeserved?”Itcantakeamoment.Atlast,hesettlesonthecorrectcups;weallseemtobreatheasighofrelief.Apparentlysatisfiedbyhischoiceofchina,thebaristagetstowork.The

grinderandcoffeeareonthebackbar,andthecoffeepouringtoolsareonthefrontbar.Thebaristaspendsamomentgroominghisnelfilterwithabamboorod:plumpingitoutandgivingitexactlythecorrectshapeforreceivingthecoffee.HetakesascoopofcoffeeandgrindsitwithanancientFujiRoyalgrinder.Inthesegrinders,themotorisseparatedfromthegrindingburrsbyanaugersothecoffeewon’tbeheatedbythefrictionofthemotorwhileitgrinds.Thecoffeeisverycoarselygroundandemptiedintothenel,whichisplaced

onanoddlyprovisional-lookingwirestand.Somuchcoffee!Thebrewingratiomustbe4to1.Thebaristadecantswaterfromalargekettlesimmeringonaninductionburner.transferringitintoasmallerpouringkettle.Eventhoughtherearenomeasuringinstrumentsinsight,itseemsevidentthatthebaristahasspentmanyanhourwithagramscaleandthermometer,internalizingthecorrectmeasurementsbeforeeverservingacustomerprofessionally.Thebaristastartspouringwater.Thepouringkettleisthetoolthatletshim

expresshistechniqueanddesiresonthecoffee.Hedrizzlesthewaterslowlyand

expresshistechniqueanddesiresonthecoffee.Hedrizzlesthewaterslowlyandmethodically,circumscribingaquarter-sizecircleontopofthecoffeemass.Thepourissoslowthat,insteadofasteadystreamofwater,weseewhatlookslikethetiniestpearlnecklaceslippingfromthekettleintothefilter,comprisedofconnecteddroplets,plumpandspherical.Thespeedofthepourissorigorouslycontrolledthatthewaterneverceasestocomeoutorsplashesintothenel;itjustcontinuestoemergeasthisperfectstrandofconnecteddroplets,makingaslighttearingsoundasitcontactsthegroundcoffee.Thisgoesonforaminuteortwobeforewenoticesomethingodd:There’snocupunderthenel!Coffeewillstartleakingoutontothecounteratanysecond!Butofcoursethebaristaknowspreciselyhowlonghecanpourbeforethecoffeelosesitsabilitytoabsorbthewaterenteringthefilter.Secondsbeforethecoffeestartstodripfromthebottomofthenel,thebaristaslidesthecupunderthefilter,suavely,asthoughthisirresistibleyetmodestdisplayofshowmanshipisallthequietsatisfactionheneedsinhisworkingday.Hepours,uninterrupted,forseveralmoreminutes,untilenoughcoffee

emergestofillademitasse—about3fluidounces(90ml).Heplacesthecupinfrontofme,handlealwaysturnedtomyright,andtomyleftheplacesadoll’s-sizepitcherofheavycream,twotiny,individuallywrappedcontainersofglucosesyrup,andthedaintiestteaspoon,allarrangedonasmallsaucer.But,ofcourse,usingcondimentswouldnevercrossmymind.Thecake,whichwasslicedseveralminutesagoandplacedinarefrigeratortofirmup,isplacedtomyright.EverytimeIgotoChateiHatou,Iworry,“IsthisthetimewhenthecoffeeisnotasgloriousasIremember?HastimeandmynaturalinclinationtomythologizeJapanese-stylecoffeemadeitimpossibleforthisactualdrinktoequalthemyexpectationsofit?”AndeverytimeItakethefirstsip,Irelax.Theanswer,ofcourse,isno.Afterafewsips,Ilookaround.Ononesideofthebar,thejuniorbaristahas

pouredroastedcoffeebeansinasinglelayeronasheetpan.Hescrutinizeseverybean,givingthecoffeeaveryskepticallookandpullingoutbeanshedisapprovesof.Eachpanlookslikeitholdsabout1½pounds(680g)ofcoffee.ChateiHatoudoesn’troastitsowncoffee;itusesbeansfromseveralsuppliers.Dependinguponthecoffee,thatjuniorbaristamightdiscardaboutfiftybeansfromthepan—orhemightdiscardhalf.ThiscountsassideworkatHatou.Ontheothersideofthebar,ayoungwomanisfrostingachiffoncakewith

whatlookslikechocolateganache—frostingitperfectly.Mylovelywifeisincomparablytalentedwithanoffsetspatula,butevensheisspellboundthefirsttimeweseethechiffoncakebeingfrosted.Thecakeismadeintubepan,soithasasmallholegoingthroughthecenter.Thereisamomentofexpectationastheprocessoffrostingcomestocompletion:Isshegoingtofrosttheinterior?Theyoungwomanputsdowntheoffsetspatula,picksupasmallerone,and—

Theyoungwomanputsdowntheoffsetspatula,picksupasmallerone,and—yes!—froststheinsideofthesmallhole.ThisiswhathavingacoffeeatChateiHatouislike:everybeanisscrutinized,everycakeisimmaculatelyfrosted,andeverycoffeeisunderstoodasanexperiencethatcanbeasperfectasitneedstobe.

NelDripCoffee

Drippingcoffeethroughaflannelfilter(shortenedto“nel”)hasalonghistoryinJapandatingbacktothe1920s.AlthoughnowconsideredfustyandperhapssomewhatunfashionableinJapan,neldripishappilyexperiencingaresurgentpopularityintheUnitedStates.TherearedozensofstylesofpreparingneldripinJapanandtheUnited

States;atBlueBottleourfavoritemethodhasbeenadaptedfromnotestakenandconversationsheldduringmymanyvisitstoChateiHatouinTokyo,oneofthemostmeticulous,inspiring,andrefinedcafesinalltheworld.ThefirsttimeItriedcoffeepreparedthiswaywasatCafél’Ambreinthe

GinzaneighborhoodofTokyo.ThecoffeewassodiligentlypreparedthatIwasperplexedattheratioofshowmanshippermillilitersofcoffee.ButonceItriedit,IwasbaffledandthenfuriousthatIneverhadcoffeethisstunningandcomplex—withsuchabewilderingviscosity—inmywholelife.Whyhadthisbeenkeptfromme?!?Thehallmarksofthisstyleofneldriparecharacterizedbylowbrewing

temperatures(approximately175°For79°C),slowextraction,oldercoffee(post-roast),coursegrind,andverytightbrewingratios.Formethemagicofneldripisthetexture.Abeautifullymadeneldripisradiantandplump—substantiallikeespressowithoutthesameintensity,andthickerthanaFrenchpresswithoutthegraininess.Itissyrupyyetnotheavy.Theaftertaste,whileshorterindurationthananespresso,ismoreintense.ManyU.S.coffeeexpertsconsidertheextraction“incorrect”becausethebrewingtemperatureistoolow,thebrewingratioistoosmall,andthegrindismuchtoocoarse.However,thisselectiveunderextractioncanproduceanamazingrangeofflavorsnotpresentinmoretraditionallyacceptedmethodsofbrewingcoffee.Thecorrectpourcancoaxoutflavorsofacoffee—copperpennies,cacaonibs,cannedslicedmandarinsinheavysyrup,tomatoconfit—thatareunobtainablethroughanyothermeansofextraction,sothatevenmodestcoffeesproperlypreparedwithaneldripcanseemliketheraresttreasures.Wehavenoticedthatlighter,brightercoffeesarebestenjoyedonthenelquiteafewdayspost-roast.WeloveIndonesianandBraziliancoffeesroastedatamediumordeeperroastlevelfrom3to4daysout,allthewayupto3to4weeksafterroast;lightlyroastedCentralAmericanandAfricancoffeeswillbenefitfrom10daysormoreofrestafterroasting.Usingthismethod,we’vemadememorablecupswithsix-week-oldcoffees

Usingthismethod,we’vemadememorablecupswithsix-week-oldcoffees—unthinkablewithanyotherextractionmethodwe’vetried.WelovethesaturatedsweetnessandMadeira-likemouthfeelofthenel.

TheApolloniannelissolid,denselystructured,anddeeplyrationalcomparedwithourotherfavorite—theDionysiansiphon:kaleidoscopic,wild,andethereal.(Seemoreonsiphoncoffee.)Thetechniqueofneldripisoneofthemostineffable,solotsofpracticeandafewdisappointingcupsawaitabeginningnelcoffeepractitioner.

WHATYOU’LLNEED•Neldripfilter•Soft-bristlebrush•Coffeebeans,ideally1to3weeksafterroasting•Gramscale•Coffeegrinder•Thinbamboopaddle,offsetspatula,orbutterknife•About200ml(6.8floz)good-qualitywater•Thermocouple•Swan-neckedkettle•Timer•Carafe

Whennew,removetheflannelfilterfromthewireframe,andsubmergeitinboilingwaterfor5to10minutes.Carefullyremoveitfromthehotwaterandbrushlightlywithacleansoft-bristlebrushthatyouwillonlyuseforthispurpose.Ifyouhaveanalready-usednel,removeitfromitsstoragecontainer.Bringthewatertoaboilandgrind40to50grams(1.4to1.8oz)of

coffee.Thegrindshouldbequitecoarse—coarserthanaFrenchpressgrind—andthecoffeeshouldfeelgrittyandsharp.Individualparticlesofcoffeeshouldbeeasilydiscernableevenifyouarenotwearingyourreadingglasses.

Takethestill-dampnel,pinchthebottombetweentwofingers,andgentlyrotateit360to540degreestowringmorewaterout.Placethenelandframebetweenacleandishtowelandspankbothsidestocoaxevenmorewateroutofthenel.Attheendofthis,youshouldhaveaslightlydamp,slightlywarmnel.Theseamsshouldbeontheoutside.Addthecoffeetothenelinaloosemound.Don’tcompressit.

Takeathinbamboopaddleoroffsetspatulaorbutterknifeand“groom”thecoffeebygentlyslidingthepaddlebetweenthemassofcoffeeandthenel.Pushthepaddletothebottomofthenelandmakeagentlesawing

motioncompletelyaroundthecircumferenceofthenel.Thenuseyourpaddletomakeanindentationonthetopofthemassofcoffeethatisapproximatelythecircumferenceofanickelandthedepthofathumbtack.Settheneloveracarafethatdoesnotcontactthesidesofthenel.Place

nelandcarafeonagramscaleandtare.Placeatimernexttoyournel.Pourthehotwaterintoaswan-neckedkettle.Letthewatercoolto

approximately175°F(79°C).Yes,thisisaverylowtemperature.Startthetimerandbegindrizzlingwateraroundthecircumferenceofthe

nickel-sizedindentationyoumadeinthemassofcoffee.Clockwise,ofcourse.Don’tworryaboutsaturatingallofthecoffee.Timeandtheprincipleofcapillaritywilltakecareofthat.Pouroverapproximately45ml

principleofcapillaritywilltakecareofthat.Pouroverapproximately45ml(1.5floz)ofwaterover45to60seconds.Pausefor45seconds.Thecoffeeshouldlookactiveandbechurningupward.Afteryourpause,pour80ml(2.7floz)ofwaterinthesamepatternbut

slightlyfaster,over60to80seconds.Acapshouldformoverthecoffeethatistheapproximatesize,shape,andcolorofabuttonmushroomcap.Keepthemushroominthecenterofthenel!Pausefor20seconds.Next,add60ml(2floz)ofwateratanevenfasterpace—about30

seconds.Theendresultis185ml(6.2floz)ofwaterpouredover3minutes,20

seconds.About100ml(3.4floz)willbeinthecarafe,therestwillbecapturedbythecoffeegrounds.Removethenelfromthecarafebeforealltheliquidhasdrippedout.Thereisachancethatthecoffeewillbenotquitehotenoughtodrink

withallnecessaryappreciation.OurfriendsatCaféHatoureheatthecoffeebeforeservingbypouringitintoasmallcoppersugarmelterandbrieflysettingitonaninductionburnersettolow.AtBlueBottle,wecan’tbringourselvestoreheatcoffeesowecompensatebyheatingourcupswithveryhotwaterbeforethecoffeegoesin.Serve.Aftereachuseoftheneldrip,rinsethenelinhotwaterandbrushboth

sidesagain.Thenplaceinajar,pourincoldwatertosubmerge,andstoreuncoveredintherefrigerator.Thedampnelcanalsobeheldinasealedzip-topbagwiththesameresults.

TROUBLESHOOTINGIfyouarehavingproblemsmakingdeliciouscoffeeswiththispreparationmethod,theseareoftentheculprits:

•Toohighbrewingtemperature•Toofineagrind•Toolongabrewcycle•Coffeethatistooclosetoitsroastdate•Inadequatelycared-fornel(i.e.,dirty,dry,moldy)

JAPAN’SCOFFEETOOLS

There’satemptationtoseenewdevelopmentsincoffeeintheUnitedStatesasbeingoriginal,butusingmanualtechniquestoexpresstheintricaciesofflavorfromsingle-origincoffeesissomethingtheJapanesehavebeengreatatforthelastsixtyyears.ThoseofusintheStateswhoaretryingtoputourownstamponthesetechniqueshaveonepersontothank:acannedcoffeesalesmanfromtheUCCUeshimaCoffeeCo.namedJayEgami.ImetJayinthewinterof2003.Iwas

makingcoffeeattheBlueBottlecartatSanFrancisco’sFerryPlazaFarmersMarket.Jaywaitedinlinelikeeveryoneelse,andthenafterImadehimacappuccino,hehandedmehiscardshowinghiscredentialsasaSanFrancisco–basedU.S.representativeofUCC.Heaskedifhecouldseemyroaster,whichatthetimewasstillinthepottingshedinOakland.Jayisasalesman,soinasensehewasjustdoinghisjobbymeetingme,butIgottheideathatheappreciatedwhatIwastryingtoachieve,andwesoonbecamefriends.GettingtoknowJayovertheyearshas

beenliketakingacorrespondencecourseinJapanese-stylecoffee.Ihadbeendoingpour-overcoffeefromBlueBottle’sbeginningsin2002,butI’vealwaysbeeninterestedincontinuallyimprovingandrefiningmyprocesses.Tothatend,overtheyearsIaskedJayquestions,andhecamebackwith

Jayquestions,andhecamebackwithnumbersfromtheUCCCoffeeAcademyforbrewingratiosandextractiontimes.Irealizedthat,givenhistravelscheduleandenthusiasmforcoffeeandcafés,hehadbeentomorecafésthananyoneIknew.Jay’sworldlyattitudetowardcafésandhisopinionswereagreattouchstoneforme,keepingmefromgettingtooparochial.AfteropeningBlueBottle’sfirstpermanent

locationinJanuaryof2005,myprioritywasespresso,bothfromtheroastingsideandfromthebaristaside.Wemadepouroverslikewehadbeenmakingatthefarmers’markets—hugedose,afasterpour,agitation,andalotofwater.Itwastastyandpopular,butunsubtle,andasusual,Iwasinterestedhowwemightimproveourpourover.JayfirsthandedmeaBonmaccatalogin

2006.Bonmac,asubsidiaryofUCC,distributesequipmenttocafésallaroundJapan—andwhatequipmentitis!Adozenkindsofdrippers,swan-neckedkettles,siphons,siphonbars,kenaf-paperfilters,bamboo-paperfilters,neldripkits,andmysteriousdrippersforicedcoffeethatresemblegrandfatherclocks,nottomentionthesiphonsandsiphonlightsthatInoticedinTokyoduringmyfirsttriptoJapanwhenIwasnineteenyearsold.BackthenJaywasoneoftheonlypeopleintheStateswhocouldimportthatbeautifulgear,andin2007westartedswitchingtomoreJapaneseequipmentandtechniques,culminatingwiththesiphonbarwhenweopenedtheMintPlazacaféin2008.Jaystartedgettingcallsfromalloverthe

country.AnytimeIheardaboutacaféwithapour-overbaropeningorashopwithHariogearforsale,IknewthatJayhadhelpedthemout.Nowthereareseveralimportersof

out.NowthereareseveralimportersofJapanesecoffeegear,butnonemoreinfluentialandknowledgeablethanJayEgami.

SiphonCoffee

THEROADTOSIPHONCOFFEEANDTHEMINTPLAZACAFÉSiphoncoffeewasinventedinthe1840smoreorlesssimultaneouslybyaFrenchhousewifeandaScottishmarineengineer.Overthedecades,variousrefinementshavebeenmadetotheprocessofpreparingsiphoncoffee,butthebasicprinciple,basedonthephysicsofexpandingwatervapor,hasnotchanged:whenheatedsufficiently,waterboils.Siphoncoffeeisthemosttheatricalofallbrewingmethods.Whenbrewing

siphoncoffeewithabeamheater,Japanesestyle,it’stheclosestwebaristasgettobeingintheRockettes.BlueBottleopenedthefirstJapanese-stylesiphonbarintheUnitedStatesinourMintPlazalocationinSanFranciscoin2008.There

weserveamenuofthreesingle-origincoffees,changingseasonally,preparedbydedicatedsiphonbaristas.Idubbedthesiphonsbar’sopeningcrew“siphonistas”asajokeduringourinitialtraining,butthenamestuck(whichistosay:Ididn’tlearnathingfromtheGibraltarepisode),andquiteafewplacesaroundtheworldnowusetheterm.AsI’vementioned,weopenedourfirstpermanentlocation,thekioskon

LindenStreet,inJanuaryof2005.Nestledinagarageonadead-endalleywayinSanFrancisco’sedgybutrapidlygentrifyingHayesValley,itstartedoutseeminglikeagoof,aperformanceartinstallation,acuriositythatwouldbarelymake$200aday.Butweweredeadseriousaboutmakingcoffee,andpeopleintheneighborhoodstartedfindingus—thenpeoplefromotherneighborhoods,thencoffee-starvedout-of-towners,andprettysoonthelineswereaslongasthelinesatBlueBottle’scartatthefarmers’markets.Inmid-2006,whenIstartedscoutingaroundforacaféthat,unliketheLinden

Streetkiosk,actuallyofferedcustomersprotectionfromtherain,IcameacrosstheProvidentLoanBuildingindowntownSanFrancisco.It’sdirectlybehindthegloriousandemptypre–1906earthquakeOldMintbuilding.Constructedin1912,theProvidentLoanBuildinghasbeenincontinualuseasa“collateralloan”institution.Don’tsaypawnshop.Ourshopislocatedinthebackofthisbuilding,onyetanotherpee-smellingalley.Butthebuilding!With17-foot(5.2-m)ceilings,intactoriginaldetails,anddiffuselightfromthenorth-facingwindows,theproportionsareharmoniousandexpansive.Itseleganceandverticalitycombinetomakeitfeellikeaplacewheresiphoncoffeeshouldbemade.SoinspiteofthefactthatitwaslocatedablockawayfromSanFrancisco’s

dicieststreet,hadessentiallyzerofoottraffic,andalmostnovisibilityfromthenearestmajorstreets,Iblithelysignedaleasebasedonmynaivefaiththatgreatarchitecture,siphoncoffee,andtoastcouldovercomeobstaclesthatfarmoreastutebusinesspeoplewouldrunfrom.OnceIsecuredalocationthatwouldharmonizebeautifullywiththepreparationandserviceofsiphoncoffee,IneededJayEgami’sassistance.Ididn’twanttotakehimtothesite,sinceitwassosketchy,butIshowedhimpicturesofthebuildingandtoldhimaboutmyplanforafull-servicecafécompletewithasiphonbar,single-originespressoonavintageespressomachine,andsimple,house-madebreakfastsandlunches.Tomysurprise,heagreedwithmeandsaidhewouldorderthesiphonbarat

once.Weneededmaximumtimetopractice.Ididn’twanttotellmanypeopleabouttheplanbecauseIwasn’tsurehowitwasgoingtoworkout.Theonlywaytofindoutwastowriteabigcheckandwait.Atlast,themomentarrived.Jaypulledupwithsomebigboxesinhistruck,

andwesetuptheequipmentonacounterattheroastery.ThemachineitselflookedasthoughithadbeenpluckedfromtheNautilus:fivebrassburnersthatlookedlikeportholesandflashedanintensered-amberlightstrongenoughtoboil300milliliters(10floz)ofwaterin90seconds,aFujitouchpadwithadozenbuttonslabeledonlyinJapanese,countdowntimers,andthemeticulouscraftsmanshipthatI’vecometoexpectfromallofthegearIgetfromJay.IwasgoingtobetheCaptainNemoofMintPlaza,butinsteadofplayingtheorgan,Iwouldmakecoffeeonmysiphonbar!Wekeptthesiphonbrewerattheroaster,andtuckeditunderaclothduring

roastingdayssoitwouldn’tgetdusty.OnSundayafternoon(whenweweren’troastingcoffeeandnoonewasaround),IwentinsoIcouldhavealittlepeaceandquietwiththenewsiphonequipment.Iimaginedtheserenityofpreparingexquisitecoffeesoneaftertheother—tastingone,sighingdeeplywithpleasure,andmovingontothenextincrediblecoffee.Istartedonmyfirstcoffee.Ifumbledalittlewiththepaddleusedtostirthecoffeeintheglasssiphonbowlandthebrewcyclewasalittleslow.Butthelights!Thepageantry!AfterIfinishedbrewingthecoffee,Itookadeepsniffofthisincredible

washedEthiopiancoffeeIhadbeensavingexpresslyforthepurposeofenjoyingmyvirginsiphonattempt.Iinhaledthearomaof…dinercoffee.Puzzled,Itookasip.Ittastedlike…dinercoffee.Itriedbrewingitagain.Dinercoffee.Ichoseadifferentwonderfulcoffee,thisonefromBrazil.Theresult?Dinercoffee.Itriedadry-processedEthiopian.Dinercoffee.Ihadalottolearnaboutmakingsiphoncoffee.Thecoffeecangetveryhotif

you’renotcareful,andIwasburningeachandeverypotbeyondrecognition.TheJapanesemethodofpreparingsiphoncoffeecanbemaddeninglyelusive.

SiphonistasinJapanstayattheirjobsforyearsandservelengthyapprenticeshipswheretheylearntodelicatelymanipulatethewaterinthesiphonwiththebamboopaddlesoitdoesn’tburnthecoffee.TherearecompetitionsinJapanwheresiphonistasfromalloverthecountryvietobethebestatmakingsiphoncoffee.Wehadacompetitionwinnerbrewsiphoncoffeeatourshoponce,anditwasahumblingandinspiringexperience.Ifinallylearnedtomakeagoodpotbypracticingstirringwateronlyinthe

upperbowl.Iendedupspendinghoursdoingthatbeforethecaféopened.IrealizedthatthebaristasworkingattheMintPlazacaféneededtobeabletomakeagoodsiphoncoffeewithoutseveralyearsoftrainingandanapprenticeship.Soeventuallywegravitatedtoamethodthat’salittlelesspoeticbutmorerepeatable.Intherecipethatfollows,Iofferyou,thebuddingsiphonista,thatmethod,aswellasamoretraditionalJapanesemethod.

SiphonCoffee

FORHARIOTCA2:MAKES1SERVING,ABOUT8FLUIDOUNCES(240ML);

FORHARIOTCA3:MAKESABOUT1.5SERVINGS,ABOUT12FLUIDOUNCES(360ML)

Therearemanydifferentmakesofsiphons;therecipebelowisbasedonusingtheHarioTCA2orTCA3.Whilethegeneralprinciplescanbeadaptedtoothermakesofsiphons,ourexperienceisgreaterwiththeHario,andyourresultswithnon-Hariosiphonsmayvary.Forthatmatter,resultsonHariosiphonsarenotguaranteedtobeconsistentgiventhesubtlenatureofsiphoncoffeepreparation.Somesiphons,includingtheHario,comewithaburnerthatuses

denaturedalcoholforfuel,which,inmyopinion,isinadequatetothetaskofmakingexcellentcoffee.SeekoutaBunsen-stylebutane-fueledburnerforbestresults,suchasYamabrand.Butaneisavailableatmosthardwarestores.

WHATYOU’LLNEED•Siphonfilter•Siphonupperbowl•Siphonholder•Gramscale•20to31grams(0.7to1.1oz)coffeebeans•Coffeegrinder•Siphonlowerbowlwithstand•8fluidounces(1cup/240ml)good-qualityhotwater•Butaneburner•Thermocoupleorotherthermometer•Bamboostirringpaddle

TOUSETHEAMERICANMETHOD,soakthefilterinwarmwaterfor5minutes.Dropthefilterintothecenteroftheupperbowl,thenpullthechaintosecurethefilterandsettheupperbowlintotheholder.Weighoutthecoffee;theamountdependsonthebrewingratioyou’ll

use.Grindthecoffeetoamediumcoarseness,alittlefinerthanyouwouldforFrenchpress.Pourthehotwaterintothelowerbowlinitsstand.Ignitetheburner.Placethelowerbowlovertheflameandwaitforallthe

watertorisetotheupperbowl.Measurethewatertemperatureintheupperbowlandadjusttheflameuntilitstabilizesat188°F(87°C).Addthegroundcoffeetotheupperbowl.Gentlyincorporatetheground

coffeeintothetoplayerofhotwaterbyrubbingthepaddlealongthetopofthecoffeemassfornolongerthan30seconds.Themotionisliketryingtospreadcoldbutteronapieceofparticularlydelicatetoast.Within30seconds,allthecoffeeshouldbemoistenedbythehotwater.Letthecoffeebrewfor20to40seconds.Stirthecoffeewiththepaddlefornomorethan12rotations.Thegoalis

tocreatethefastestanddeepestwhirlpoolwiththeminimumofrotations.Physicallyseparatethesiphonpotfromtheheatsourceandrememberto

turnoffyourburner.Thecoffeeshoulddescendintothelowerbowlin30to45seconds.Ifittakeslonger,thecoffeeisgroundtoofinely.Toremovetheupperbowl,gentlyrockitbackandforthasyoutwistand

pullitoutofthelowerbowl.Rinsethefilter(don’tusesoap)anddryitwithadishtowel.Youcanstoretheclean,dampsiphonfilterinaresealableplasticbaginyourrefrigerator.Ifyoumakesiphoncoffeesporadically,keepthefilterinacoveredbowlfilledwithwaterandaquarter-teaspoonofespressocleaningdetergent.Ifyouarestoringyourfilterthisway,youwillneedtomakeonepotandthrowitawaybeforemakingapottodrink.Handwashtheupperandlowerbowls.There’snoneedtotakethelowerbowloffthestandduringcleaning.

TOUSETHEJAPANESEMETHOD,soakthefilterinwarmwaterfor5minutes.Dropthefilterintothecenteroftheupperbowl,thenpullthechaintosecurethefilterandsetthetopintotheholder.Weighoutthecoffee;theamountdependsonthebrewingratioyou’ll

use.Grindthecoffeetoamediumcoarseness,alittlefinerthanyouwouldforFrenchpress.Transferthegroundcoffeeintothesiphontop.Pourthehotwaterintothelowerbowlinitsstand.Ignitetheburner.Placethelowerbowlovertheflameandwaitforthe

watertoboil.Testtheheatofthewaterbyinsertingtheupperbowlsothe

watertoboil.Testtheheatofthewaterbyinsertingtheupperbowlsothechaintouchesthewater.Youwanttoseeareaction(bubbles),butifthereactionistoowild,removethelowerbowlfromtheheatandswirlitinacounterclockwisedirectiontoreleasebubbles.Withthelowerbowlovertheheat,inserttheupperbowlintothepot

firmlybutgently,asyouwillsoonneedtoremovethetop.Once1inch(2.5cm)ofwaterhasrisenintotheupperbowl,usethe

stirringpaddletoimmersethecoffeeintothewater.Scrapetheedgeandplungethegroundsintothewater.Resistthetemptationtostir.Keepthesiphonontheheat,undisturbed,for30seconds,thenstart

stirringinacounterclockwisedirection,withtheburnerstillon.Stirfornomorethan12rotations.Thegoalistocreatethefastestanddeepestwhirlpoolwiththeminimumofrotations.(Thisskillisbestacquiredbypracticingstirringwithoutthecoffeegrounds.)Thinkofthecoffeegroundsasaschooloffishthatwanttostaytogether.Don’tcutintothemassofcoffeewiththepaddle.Physicallyseparatethesiphonpotfromtheheatsourceandrememberto

turnoffyourburner.Thecoffeeshoulddescendintothelowerbowlin30to90seconds.Ifittakeslonger,yourgrindistoofine.Toremovetheupperbowl,gentlyrockitbackandforthasyoutwistand

pullitoutofthelowerbowl.Rinsethefilter(don’tusesoap)andstoreitfollowingtheinstructions.Handwashtheupperandlowerbowls.There’snoneedtotakethelowerbowloffthestandduringcleaning.

TURKISHCOFFEE

Turkishcoffeeisamethodofbrewingthat’spopularacrossNorthAfrica,Arabia,andtheMiddleEast.It’snotcalledTurkishcoffeeineverycountryit’smadein,sodon’taskforitinArmeniaorGreece.However,forthepurposesofthisbook,I’llcallitTurkishcoffee,andI’llrefertothepotasanibrik,whichiswhattheycallitinArabic-speakingcountries,althoughitismorecommonlycalledacezveinTurkey.Sadlyoutoffavorincoffeegeekcircles,Turkishcoffee,whenwellmade,canbeadelightfulchangefromanafternoonespresso,especiallyifyoucan’tgettoyourfavoritecaféanddon’twanttotrustanunfamiliarcaféforsomethingasimportantasanespresso.Turkishcoffeeiseasytomakeathomeorwhentraveling,andatwork,ifyouhaveaccesstoastove.Itstartswiththeibrik,along-handled,thin-neckedcopperorbrasspot.The

thinneckisimportantbecauseitpressurizestheexpandingwatervapor,creatingafoamwithoutactuallyboilingthecoffee.Traditionally,Turkishcoffeeisheavilysweetenedandspicedwithcardamom,butdependingonthecoffeeyouchoose,awell-madepotcanshowalotofvarietalcharacteristics,andneithersugarnorcardamomisnecessarytoenjoyit.Turkishcoffeeisaconcentratedandpotentdrink,sotherecommendedservingshouldbeapproximately3fluidounces(92ml).Likeespresso,Turkishcoffeeisn’tatypeofcoffee,itisapreparationmethod.

Youcanuseanytypeofcoffeeaslongasit’sfreshlyroasted,isn’troastedtoodarkly,andisgroundveryfinely,toapowder,justpriortobrewing.AtBlueBottle,welikedense,dry-processedcoffeesforthisstyle.WhenthisstyleofcoffeewasfirstpreparedinArabia,thebeanswereprobablywild,dry-processedcoffeesfromthemountainsofwhatisnowYemen.Originally,theibrikswereplacedonatrayfilledwithsandandsetoverhotcoals.Thesandsupposedlyhelpsprovideveryevenheat,butamodernelectricorgasstovewillworkjustfine.

TurkishCoffee

INDIVIDUALSERVINGSSHOULDBEABOUT3FLUIDOUNCES(92ML)

Differentibrikshavedifferentcapacities.Youneedtofillyourswithwatertojustbelowwheretheneckisnarrowest.Thenmeasurethatamountofwaterandbasetheamountofcoffeeyouuseonan8-to-1ratio.Oneimportantnote:youneedagoodburrgrindertoachievethepowderyconsistencynecessaryforTurkishcoffee.

WHATYOU’LLNEED•Good-qualitycoldwater•Ibrik•Gramscale•Coffeebeans•Burrgrinder

Pourthecorrectamountofcoldwaterintotheibrik(uptojustbelowwheretheneckisnarrowest).Weighoutthecoffee,thengrinditveryfinely;thetextureshouldbesimilartocornstarch.Addthedrycoffeeontopofthewater.Don’tstir.Placetheibrikonthesmallestburneronthestoveovermediumheat.The

coffeeshouldfoamupafter2to3minutes,dependinguponthesizeoftheibrik.Asitapproachesthispoint,you’llseesomechurningandseethingasthewatervaporpressurizesunderthecapofgroundcoffee.Thenitwillstarttofoamandlooklikeit’sboiling.Immediatelypulltheibrikofftheheat.Letthebubblessubside,thenplacetheibrikbackontheheatandrepeat.

Thecoffeewillfoamupmuchmorequicklythesecondtime.Whenitdoes,removetheibrikfromtheheat.Repeatathirdtime.Atthispoint,therewillhopefullybeafairly

persistentlayeroffoamontopofthecoffee.Carefullypourthefoamequallyintothenumberofcupsyou’reserving(dividingthefoamequallyisimportantforensuringthatallyourguestshavefoam,asthatisatraditionalindicatorofgoodhospitality).Slidetherestofthecoffeedownthesideofeachcup,beingcarefulnottodissipatethefoam.Serveimmediately.Thesiltypowderedcoffeewillsettletothebottomofeachcup,sobe

Thesiltypowderedcoffeewillsettletothebottomofeachcup,sobecarefulnottodrinkthelastfewsips.

Espresso

LikeTurkishcoffee,espressoisnotatypeofroastoratypeofcoffeebean.Espressoisamethod.It’sawayofextractingabout30to40milliliters(6to8teaspoons)ofaromaticcoffeeessence,madewithabrewingratioofabout1.5to1underabout9barsofpressure.Youcangrindcoffeefromanyoriginandatanyroastlevelanduseittomakeanespresso.However,makingconsistentlydelicious,well-craftedespressoisanart,andnotaneasyonetomaster.Sobeforeyougooutandbuyanespressomachine,youshouldaskyourselfonesimplequestion:areyousureyouwanttomakeespressoathome?

THEINSANDOUTSOFHOMEESPRESSOMACHINESSuzeOrmaniswrong.Youwillnotsavemoneyifyoubuyahomeespressomachine.Youwillspendmoney.Makingespressoathomealsowon’tsavetime,comparedtogoingouttoyourfavoritecrowdedcafé.Unlessyoulivefarfromadecentcafé,youprobablywon’tmakebetterdrinksathome.Variousstudiesinthesocialscienceshaveshownthathumanshaveevolveda

capacityforself-deception.Fromanevolutionaryperspective,theadaptivebenefitsofself-deceptionapparentlyallowedourspeciestosurvivewhenknowingourtruemotivationsordesiresmightharmusorourabilitytoprocreate.Optimism,confidence,exuberance—thesearethedelightfulby-productsofourevolvedabilitytodeceiveourselves.Sowebuythingslikeespressomachines.Optimistically.Perhapsyouhavethoughtslikethese:

“I’llsave$832ayearifIstopgoingtoStarbucks!”“Icanlearntomakedrinksbetterthanthat!”“Iwouldn’thavemissedmytrainifthelinewasn’tsolong!”

Let’sbereal:makingespressoathomeisexpensive,difficult,andtime-consuming.Strugglingtobebetteratsomethingmakesusbetterpeople.Parenting,graduatingfromcollege,runningamarathon,buildingahousewithyourownhands—thesearealldifficultactivities,activitiesthatnooneshouldtalkusoutofjustbecausethey’redifficult.Andperhapsmakingareallygreatespresso,althoughamodestendeavor,belongsonthelistofthingsthatweprobablywillneverdoperfectlybutwillbenefitfromintheattempttodoso.In

probablywillneverdoperfectlybutwillbenefitfromintheattempttodoso.Inotherwords,perhapsit’sworthyofourtime,resources,andattention.Oneofthereasonsespressomachinesholdsuchallureforacertain

aspirationallygeekytypeofpersonalityisthattheyarerelativelysimpledevicesthatgivetheimpressionofbeingmuchmorecomplicated.Yourmicrowaveismuchmorecomplex.Yourwristwatchismuchmoreintricate.Butanespressomachineissexyandmysterious—anditmakescoffee.

UNDERSTANDINGTHEPROCESSANDTHEEQUIPMENTIfyou’renewtomakingespresso,alotofthefollowingdiscussionofespressomachinesandtheirpartsmaynotbeclear.Inthatcase,here’sanoutlineofthebasicstepstohelpyouunderstandwhatwearediscussinginsuchaviddetail:

•Warmupthemachine.•Grindthecoffeeintotheportafilterwhilerotatingtheportafilterslowly.•Distributeandtampthecoffee.•Locktheportafilterinplaceinthegrouphead.•Placethecupundertheportafilter.•Pulltheshotbyactivatingthepump.

Anespressomachinehasfourbasicparts:theboiler,thepump,thegrouphead,andtheportafilterassembly.THEBOILER.Theheatingelement,whichheatswaterandkeepsitata

consistenttemperature,residesinsidetheboiler.Asthewatertemperatureincreases,thepressureinsidetheboilerincreasesproportionally(yourememberGay-Lussac’slaw,ofcourse)toapproximately5bars.Thehappyresultisthatwateratlessthanboilingtemperaturescanproducevaporizedwater(akasteam)tofoamthemilkforyourcappuccino.THEPUMP.Thepumptakesthepressurizedhotwaterfromtheboilerand

increasesthepressuretoapproximately9bars.Thiscanbeaccomplishedmechanically,viaeitherarotaryorvibratorypump,orwithalever.THEGROUPHEAD.Thegroupheadreceiveshotwaterpushedbythepump

fromtheboileranddistributesthewaterasevenlyaspossiblethroughasystemoffineholestotheportafilter.THEPORTAFILTERANDFILTERBASKET.Theportafilteristhe

assemblythatholdsthegroundcoffeeonmostespressomachines.Abottomlessportafilterisonewithoutthespoutsormetalbaseonthebottomofthebasket.AtBlueBottle,weusethebottomlessversion(asshown)fortrainingbecauseit

allowsvisualfeedbackonhowwellthecoffeewasdistributed,basedonhowtheespressolookswhenitflowsoutofthemachine.Wealsolikethebottomlessversionwhenmakingespressoforservice;becausetheespressodoesn’tcomeincontactwithsomuchmetal(thespouts),theresultingespressoispalpablythicker.Theheatingelement,boiler,andpumparehiddeninsideabeautifulstainless

steelbox,andwhatisvisiblearethesteamwand,theportafilter,thegrouphead,andafewniceswitches.

THEANATOMYOFANESPRESSOMACHINE

Thefinelytunedpartsofanespressomachinefittogethersobeautifullythatthevariouscomponentscanbehardtoidentifywhenlookingatacomposedmachine.Inthisexplodedview,youcanseetheportafilter—weuseabottomlessstyle,whichisa“chopped”versionthatenablesbaristastoseetheaccuracyofthedoseanddistribution—whichholdstheperforatedmetalportafilterbasketwiththegroundsagainstthegrouphead.Espressomachinestypicallycomewithasinglebasket,whichisusuallysizedtohold7grams(0.25oz)ofgroundcoffee,andadoublebasket,whichcanholdupto22grams(0.78oz);weneverusesinglebasketsatBlueBottle.Thegroupheadistheterminusofthevalveinwhichhot,pressurizedwateremergesfromtheboilerandcontactsthegroundespresso.

THEANATOMYOFANESPRESSOGRINDER

BEING REALISTIC ABOUT COSTS Think about how much you want tospend to make espresso drinks at home. Now double it—and be prepared todoubleitagain.Why?ThebestespressomachinesaremadeinEurope,andtheyareexpensive (thispage includesadiscussionofprices,butkeep inmind thatthere are many other associated costs). Decide if you want to purchasesomething inexpensive that will be difficult and frustrating to operate andproduce inferior results. And be aware that you can also purchase somethingexpensive thatwill be difficult and frustrating to operate and produce inferiorresults.Sobecareful.Keepreading.

BUYAGRINDERFIRSTAnybaristawilltellyouthatthesinglemostimportantpieceofgearintheespresso-makingchainisthegrinder.Sobuyyourgrinderfirst.Earlier,Idiscussedhowgrindingexposesmoreofthecoffee’ssurfaceareato

hotwater,whichactsasasolventanddissolvesparticlesandcompoundsfromtheexposedarea.Theshorterthetimethecoffeeisexposedtohotwater,themoreimportantitisthatitbegroundtothecorrectsizeforoptimalextraction.If

moreimportantitisthatitbegroundtothecorrectsizeforoptimalextraction.Ifitisn’tgroundcorrectly,thehotwaterwillunderextractsomepartsofthecoffeeandoverextractothers.Sinceespressoisthemethodofbrewingthatuseshotwateratthehighestpressureandhastheshortestextractiontime,grinding—andhenceanappropriategrinder—figuresmuchmoreprominentlythaninothermethodsofmakingcoffee.Peopleusuallythinkthatproducinganevengrind,withallcoffeeparticlesthe

samesize,isthemostimportantvirtueofanespressogrinder.Butthat’snotthecase.Mostofthebetterespressogrindershaveburrsthatarecarefullydesignedandconstructedtocreateamixofsmallpowderyparticles(fines)andlargerparticles.Thefinesactsomewhatlikemortar,fillingthespacesbetweenthe“bricks”ofthelargerparticlestoofferthecorrectresistancetothehot,pressurizedwater.Mosthomegrindershaveflatburrs,butsomehaveconicalburrs.

Conicalburrsaregenerallymoreexpensivetoreplacebutprizedforhowtheyproduceagrindthatgivesespressoa“fluffy”mouthfeelandpurerexpressionofthelayersofthecoffee’sflavors.Grinderswithconicalburrstendtobemoreexpensiveandslowerthanthosewithflatburrs.Eithertypeiscapableofgrindingwellforespresso.Generally,youwantyourgrindertobeheavy(whichimpliesalargermotorandmoremetalpartsthanplastic),haveburrsthatare50millimeters(about2in)orgreaterindiameterifflator36millimeters(about1⅜in)orgreaterifconical,andhavetheabilityadjustthegrindsizeinveryfineincrements.Asmentionedpreviously,steplessgrindersofferthegreatestflexibilityingrindsize.Doyouhavelimitedcounterspace?Toobad!Goodgrindersarebig,and

espressomachinesareevenbigger,soyou’regoingtohavetochopyouronionssomewhereelse.It’sunlikelythatyoucangetadecentespressogrinderforlessthan$200or

$300,andmanyhomemodelscost$700ormore.QualitybrandsincludeMazzer,Compak,Rancilio,andBaratza.Thegreatthingaboutgettingagood

Mazzer,Compak,Rancilio,andBaratza.Thegreatthingaboutgettingagoodgrinderisthatit’sajoyfullyinstantaneouswaytoimprovethequalityofyourespresso.Plus,goodgrindersshouldworkwellforyearsandneedonlyminimalmaintenance.Justkeepyourgrindercleanandchangetheburrsaftergrinding300to400pounds(135to180kg)ofcoffee.That’sit.Don’timaginethatyoucanuseyourespressogrindertogrindcoffeeforother

brewingmethods.Yourespressogrindershouldbeusedformakingespresso—period.It’strickytodialinagrinderjustsoforextractingespresso.IfyouareconstantlymakingthehugegrinderadjustmentsrequiredtogofromespressotoFrenchpress,forexample,youwillprobablywasteupwardofadozenshotsasyougetyourgrinderbackintheballparkforespresso.Oneoptionistogetarelativelyinexpensivehand-crankgrinderforothercoffee-makingneeds.

ASPECIALPLACEINHELL:PODCOFFEE

AsI’vepointedoutelsewhere,tasteissubjective.Thatdifferentpeoplewillhavedifferentpreferencesincoffeeisnotonlypossiblebutlikely,andreasonablepeoplecandisagreeaboutmanythings,coffeeincluded.ButI’mgoingtoissueonecategoricalopinion:podcoffeeisbadandwrong—badbecauseit’simpossibletousepodbrewerstoproduceadeliciousbeverage,andwrongbecauseitteasespeopleintobuyingintoanindustriallyproducedproductmasqueradingashandcrafted—andthatinvolvesalmost70percentwaste.Let’sfirstlookatroastingforthepod.

Goodroasterstellyouwhattypeofcoffeeisinthebag.Ifit’sablend,theytellyouwhattheconstituentcoffeesare,andifit’sasingle-origin,they’llgetalotmorespecificthanmerelythecountryoforigin.Goodroasterstellyouwherethecoffeewasroastedandputtheroastdate,nota“bestby”date,onthebag.Withpodcoffee,youdon’tgetanyofthosedetails.Nominalinformationaboutcountryoforiginisavailableonsomepods,butthat’srare.Youdon’tknowwhenthecoffeewasroasted,whereitwasroasted,orevenwhenitwasground.PodcoffeebrandslikeK-Cupand

Nespressohaveappropriatedthelanguageandsymbolismofexclusivitywithoutanycorrespondingcraftordeliciousness.EachK-Cuppodcontainsabout8grams(0.28oz)ofcoffee,andNespressocapsuleshaveabout5.5grams(0.2oz).Using8grams(0.28oz)

5.5grams(0.2oz).Using8grams(0.28oz)ofcoffeefora355-milliliter(12floz)servingtranslatestoabrewingratioof44to1!Addanextractiontimeoflessthan60secondsandabrewingtemperatureandpouringpatternthatisentirelyoutofyourcontrol,andthedecisive,emphaticresulttopodbrewingisthis:deliciousnessisimpossible.SomepeoplearguethatK-Cupsareless

wastefulthanbrewingapotofcoffeebecauseyouonlymakewhatyou’lldrink.Butforevery1pound(455g)ofcoffeepurchased,approximately83aluminumNespressocapsulesor57plasticK-Cupcapsulesarewasted.Eachemptycapsuleweighsapproximatelytwo-thirdstheweightofthecoffee,creatingabout10ounces(285g)ofwasteforevery1pound(455g)ofcoffeebrewed.Contrastthatwithbuyingcoffeefromaresponsibleroaster,whopacksitinrecyclableorcompostablepackaging,andwhooftenpayssignificantpremiumsabovethecommodity-levelpricesthatthepodmanufacturersusuallypay.Theseductionofpodcoffee,then,centers

aroundconvenience,lackofmess,andthemanufacturingofdesirebycreatingbeautifulboutiquesinwhichtoenjoytheterriblepodcoffee,orbeautifuladvertisementstomakeuswishwewereinthebeautifulboutiquesenjoyingtheterriblepodcoffee.Themanufacturersofpodcoffeearetellingus,ineffect,somethingweknownottobetrue:thatyoucanhavesomethinggreatwithoutworkingforit,thatcraftcancomeatapushofabutton,andthatashinypieceofplasticonthecountertopisanadequatereplacementfortheexperienceofgatheringwithfriendsoverhandcraftedcoffeeatagoodcafé.

TYPESOFESPRESSOMACHINES

Assumingthatyou’veselectedagoodespressogrinder,you’reprobablywonderingifyoucannowbuyanespressomachine.Theanswerisno.Thereareafewdifferenttypesofespressomachines,andyouneedtolearn

aboutthemfirst:

•Super-automatic•Automatic•Semiautomatic•Manual•Professional

SUPER-AUTOMATICSuper-automaticmachinestakeallofthecraftoutoftheproject of making espresso. They grind, tamp, dose, and extract coffee.Sometimes they can even steam and pour milk automatically. It soundsseductive, doesn’t it? Imagine, your own robot barista, sans tip jar,willing todispensemacchiatoaftermacchiatoatthetouchofabutton,inyourownhome.Super-automatic machines manufactured for home use tend to be made withcheapcomponentsandthereforebreakdownmoreoften.Buttheydoallowyou

tomakereallybaddrinkseffortlessly.

AUTOMATICORSINGLE-SERVEMACHINESIdealtwiththeissueofpodcoffee,hopefullyonceandforall.

SEMIAUTOMATIC MACHINES Semiautomatic machines are where goodespressobecomespossible.Consumersemiautomaticmachineshaveportafiltersthatmustbedosedwithgroundcoffeeand inserted into thegrouphead.Theyhave steam wands that require using the correct amount of milk in a steampitcherandthecorrecttechnique.Asubcategoryofsemiautomaticmachineisthe“prosumer”machine.An

ungainlyportmanteauword,prosumerinthiscontextmeansthatthesemachineshavemanyofthevirtuesoftheprofessionalespressomachine:largercopperorbrassboilers,a58-millimeterportafilter,arotarypump,andanarticulatedsteamwand,witha360-degreerangeofmotionratherthanawandthatcanonlygobackandforth.Inthesemachines,heavycomponents,mostlyofmetalconstruction,havebeenweddedtotheneedsoftheconsumer,suchasstandard(110-volt)electricityandnoneedforaplumbed-inwaterconnection.Theseareoftenthemostexpensiveespressomachines,buttheyarealsotheonesthatperformbestwhenusedwell,andtheylastthelongest.

MANUALMACHINESAlso known as levermachines, thesemachines use aleverforapplyingpressure,ratherthanapump.Theylookcool,ohyestheydo.Many a newcomer to espresso looks longingly at the lever-handledLaPavoniandseesitinhiskitchenastheindeliblemarkerofIanFleming–stylebachelor-pad cache. However, they can be impractical and very tricky to use. Unlikesuper-automatic machines, which are designed so that good drinks areimpossible,itisn’timpossibletomakeagooddrinkonamanualmachine—it’sjustvery,verydifficult.Sinceyouare,ineffect,actingasthemachine’spump,factorssuchasgrindsize,dosing,anddistributionareevenmorecritical.Mostmanualmachines built for the consumer don’t have a three-way valve,whichreleasesbuilt-uppressure,soifyourmachinedoesn’thaveone,youneedtowaittoremovetheportafilteruntilthemachinehasdepressurized,oryouriskbeingsprayedbyhot,wetcoffeegrounds.WedouselevermachinesatsomeBlueBottlelocationsforsingle-origin

espressi,butcommerciallevermachineshaveaspringthatproducesthebrewingpressureontheupstrokeofthelever,ratherthanthebaristaproducingthebrewingpressureonthedownstroke,asinmanyhomemodelsoflevermachines.Thiscreatesalittlemoreexcitement,owingtothefactthatiftheportafilterisn’tseatedcorrectly,thelevercanspringupwardwithhundredsof

portafilterisn’tseatedcorrectly,thelevercanspringupwardwithhundredsofpoundsofforce,possiblybreakingjawsorcausingconcussionsiftheunfortunateandpoorlytrainedbaristahappenstohavehisorherheadwhereitshouldn’tbe.

PROFESSIONAL MACHINES The professional machines we use at BlueBottle—usuallymadebyLaMarzocco—aremonsters:huge,heavycreaturesofbrass and stainless steel built for artfully making espressi with speed andconsistency.Theydraw40to50ampsofpowerat220volts,andtheelectricitybilljusttokeepthemrunningcanbeseveralhundreddollarsamonth.Theyareusuallythree-groupmachines(threeportafilterscapableofpullingthreeespressiat a time) and have a dedicated steam boiler, and either one brew boiler or aseparate,tunablebrewboilerforeachgroup.

CHOOSINGANESPRESSOMACHINE

Itsoundssimplistic,butthesinglebestpredictoroftheadequacyofanespressomachineisweight.Heavymachinesusuallyperformbetterthanlightermachines.Weightimpliesmetalratherthanplasticparts,copperorbrassboilersratherthansteel,largergroupheadsratherthansmaller,commercial-graderatherthanconsumer-grade.Sowhenchoosingamachine,youcanspendcountlesshoursontheInternet,

oryoucankeepasimpleguidelineinmind:ifyouspendaroundtwograndonasemiautomaticmachinethatweighsmorethan40pounds(18.1kg),youprobablymadeasgoodadecisionasyouwouldhaveafterlurkingaroundboringchatroomsformonths.Ifyouwanttoconsidertheimportantspecsinmoredetail,herearesomekey

featurestolookfor:acommercial-size58millimeterportafilter,arotarypump,anarticulatedsteamwand,athree-wayvalve,acopperorbrassboilerwithavolumegreaterthan12fluidounces(355ml),andaboilerpressuregauge,whichletsyouknowwhatyourbrewingtemperatureisandletsyouseethechangeifyoumakeadjustments,sincetemperatureisproportionaltopressure.Thesameleverorbuttonshouldturnthepumponandoff;youdon’tneedanautomaticdoser.Theonlyautomaticfeatureshouldbeasensorthatcutsthepowertotheheatingelementiftheboilerorreservoirrunsdry.Iftwograndseemslikealotofmoney,thinkofallthestatussymbolsthatsit

lonelyandunuseddayafterday:theSteinwaypianos,theVikingranges,theKitchenAidmixers,theVitamixblenders.Anespressomachineandgrinderthatareputtousefrequentlyareobjectsthattransformtimeandmoneyintopleasureanddeliciousness—andthat,ifyouhavethemoney,arenothingtobeashamedof.Ofcourseyoudon’thavetospend$2,000onanespressomachinetoget

somethingserviceable.Thereareacoupleofreasonablypriced(around$700)modelsbyRancilioandGaggiathatareheavyandsimple,withlargerboilersandcommercialportafilters.Oneofthose,pairedwithagoodgrinder,willworkjustfine.

YOUNEEDAFEWMORETHINGSSonowyouhaveagrinderandanespressomachine.You’reprobablywonderingifyoucanstartmakingespresso.Notyet.Thereareafewtoolsthatyousimplymusthave.Somepeoplecutcorners

here,butthat’slikebuyingyourselfanicecarandthentryingtosavemoneyby

here,butthat’slikebuyingyourselfanicecarandthentryingtosavemoneybygettingonlythreetires.Youaresoclose.Finishthejob.Inadditiontocleaningsupplies(discussedinthenextsection),herearetheaccessoriesyouneed:

•Agramscale.Thiswillalsocomeinhandyforbakingandcooking.•Abottomlessportafilterthatistheappropriatesizeforyourespressomachine.•Adoubleportafilterbasketinyourportafilter.•Astopwatch(oruseyourphone’stimer).•Astainlesssteelsteamingpitcherthatisnomorethandoublethesizeofthedrinkyou’remaking.Forexample,ifyoutypicallymake6-ounce(180ml)cappuccinos,geta12-ounce(355ml)pitcher.Thesidesshouldbestraight,andthereshouldbeapronouncedtaperonthespout.•Aheavy,metal-basedtamperthatfitsexactlyinsideyourportafilterbasket.Itcanbeflatorslightlytapered,buteitherway,itshouldfitsnuglyinsidethebasketwithoutbinding.•Therightcups.Espressocupsshouldbenomorethan3fluidounces(90ml)incapacityandshouldhavethickwallstoholdheat.Cappuccinocupsshouldbe6to7fluidounces(180to210ml).Lattecupsshouldbenomorethan12fluidounces(355ml).

Don’tforgettheotherthingsyou’llhavetospendafairbitofmoneyon:coffeeandmilk.Whenyou’refirstlearningtomakeespressoandsteammilk,you’llprobablyhavetotossmostofwhatyoumake.Eachmorning,youmaydumpashotortwowhiledialinginyourgrind.Thisaddsup,butit’sanecessarypartoftheprocess.

LAMARZOCCOANDESPRESSOINITALY

Wealwaysliketogettoknowthepeoplewhomaketheproductsweuse,fromcoffeegrowersandbrokerstodairycompaniestoequipmentmanufacturers.Whilewehaven’tactuallygonetothefactoryinTaiwantoseewhereourcompostablepapercupsandlidsaremade,weknowthepeoplewhodesignthemandproducethem.ThesameistrueofthepeopleatLaMarzocco,theespressomachinemanufacturer17miles(30km)outsideofFlorence,Italy.We’vepurchasedseveraldozenLa

Marzoccomachinesforourownshopsaswellasonthebehalfofwholesaleaccountsovertheyears,sonottoolongagoCaitlinandIdecidedtovisitthefactory.LaMarzoccoproducesabout3,500espressomachinesayear,soitisakintovisitingtheFerrarifactory;assoonasyouwalkin,youcanfeelthatsomethingsleek,expensive,functional,beautiful,andextraordinaryismadethere.WhenwemadeittotheR&Dlab,PieroBambi,theseventy-eight-year-oldsonofthefounder,wasscrubbingthesink.Heandafewothershadbeenworkingonsomemachinesandeveryonewasbusycleaning.PieromadeusanespressoonaStradaMP,whichturnedouttobeoneofthebettercoffeeswehadinItaly.ThisimageofPierobentoverthesink

definitelyfitsinwiththecompany’sgestalt.Piero’sfather,Giuseppe,startedoutasanapprenticeinhisgrandfather’stinsmithshop.Alwaysseeinghimselfasacraftsmanat

Alwaysseeinghimselfasacraftsmanatheart,Giuseppeandhisbrother,Bruno,wentontocreateacompanythathasalwaysbeenontheleadingedgeofdesignandtechnology.TheyfoundedLaMarzoccoin1927,namingitforthelionsymbolicofFlorence,wherethecompanywasfirstlocated.Aligningitselfwiththecity’sartisantraditions,thecompanymade(andstillmakes)itsmachinesbyhand.Thefirstespressomachineswere

introducedearlier,attheturnofthenineteenthcentury,butdrinkingcoffeeatabardidn’ttakeoffinItalyuntilafewdecadeslater.Theearliestmachineswereverticalboilerswithtapsthatwereusedforheatingmilkandmakingespresso.Someranonelectricity,someongas,andsomeevenoncoal,withacoaldrawerbeneaththeboiler.Thebarista’sresponsibilityextendedtomanagingthetemperatureoftheboilerbyaddingcoalsatjudiciousmoments.Thoseearlymachinesmusthavebeenincrediblyhardtocontrol.In1939,theBambispatentedthefirst

horizontalboiler,theMarus,enablingbaristastomakeseveraldrinksatatimeandforeverchangingthedesignofespressomachines.ThecompanysaysthatallexamplesoftheMaruswerelostduringthewar,whenmanyespressomachinesweremelteddownfortheirsteeloriron,butitstillhasacopyoftheoriginalpatent.Thepostwarperiodwasreallyespresso’s

heyday,andLaMarzoccocontinueditsdesigninnovations,creatingsleekwondersthatfitintothemidcenturyaesthetic.In1970,thecompanycameoutwiththeGSseries,whichwasgroundbreakingforhavingadualboiler,oneforsteamingmilkandtheother—exclusivelyforcoffee—thatcouldbe

exclusivelyforcoffee—thatcouldbemaintainedatamoreconstanttemperature.Morerecently,LaMarzoccodevelopedone

ofthefirstPID-controlledbrewboilerstomakeespressobrewingmoreaccurate.PIDstandsforproportional-integral-derivative,whichisaverymathywayofdescribingatemperaturecontrolroutinethatmakesthebrewingboileronthesemachinesaccuratetowithin0.1°F(0.06°C).Espressoboilersgenerallyarecontrolledwithamechanicalthermostatthatcanhavea“deadband,”inwhichtheydon’trespondtotemperaturechangesofupto4°F(2.2°C).BlueBottlewasthesecondroasterintheUnitedStates,afterEspressoVivaceinSeattle,tomodifyourLaMarzoccowithaPID.ThoughLaMarzocco,whichmovedinto

itsbiggerandbetterheadquartersoutsideofFlorencein2009,isstilladvancingthetechnologyofespressomaking,themajorityofitsmachines,strangely,areexportedtotheUnitedStates,Japan,andotherpartsofEurope.Inthehigh-endcoffeeworld,andevenwithinthewallsoftheLaMarzoccofactory,youoftenhearcomplaintsaboutthequalityofcoffeeinItaly.ThedeclineinthequalityofItaliancoffee

qualityisgenerallyattributedtotwofactors:Becausethecostofacupofespressoisregulatedbythegovernmentataround1euro,there’snotalotofincentivetoseekouthigh-qualitygreencoffeeortodosemorethan7grams(0.25oz)forasingleshot.Also,atthemajorityofcoffeebars,theespressomachinesareprovidedandservicedbythelargecoffeeroasters,andasaresult,theoverallcoffeeculturehasbecomeentrenchedandcommodified.Becausesomanycustomersorderasingleespressoratherthan

customersorderasingleespressoratherthanamoreexpensivedrink,runningaprofitablecaféhingesonmakinglargenumbersofespressiduringthedayandsellingalotofcocktailsatnight.Onourtrip,CaitlinandIsoughtoutcafésinFlorence,Bologna,andVenicethatservesingle-origincoffeeorthatusequalitymachinesandfoundahandful.Buttherearefarfewerthanyou’dexpect.WhatcriticsofthecurrentstateofItalian

coffeeoftenignoreiswhatthecountryhasachieved,whichisnear-universaladequacy.AtalmostanycaféinItaly,youcanrestassuredthatthecoffeewillbeatworstnotbad,andatbestprettydarngood.Thisisn’tfaintpraise;thisisactuallyagloriousachievement—onethat’shardtoimagineoccurringanywhereelseontheplanet.WhenwewereleavingItaly,IorderedanespressointheFlorenceairportandthenanotherattheFrankfurtairport.BothusedIllycoffee,andbothweremadeonidenticalCimbalimachines.TheoneinFlorencewasafine,pleasantdrink,distinguishedbyanabsenceofnegativequalities,whiletheoneinFrankfurtwasterrible.Aforty-five-minuteflight,andaworldapart.It’sthrillingtoseehowprofessionallyand

smoothlythecafésareruninItaly—seeingoldladiesputtingtheirshoppingbagsdownandhavingespressiforhere.Thecustomersknowwhattoorderandknowhowtobehave.It’sadeeptradition.Wecan’tduplicateitintheUnitedStates,butwecanlearnfromit,evenifmostItaliancafésaren’taspiringtohitthetranscendenthighssomeU.S.establishmentsareshootingfor.LaMarzocco’sresponsivenesstowhatthe

worldwidehigh-endcoffeemarketswantisremarkable.Theywanttofigureoutwhere

remarkable.Theywanttofigureoutwheretechnologycantakecoffee,evenifthere’salackofinterestinItaly.PartofthatcanbeexplainedbytheirpartialAmericanownershipanddeeptiestothehigh-endcoffeecommunityintheUnitedStates,butmuchofitrestsonthetraditionofcreativityandartisanshipthatisstillembodiedbyPieroBambi.

LaMarzoccomachinesbeingassembledbyhandatthefactoryheadquartersnear

Florence

CLEANINGYOURESPRESSOMACHINE

Oldcoffeesmellsandtastesbad.Therefore,youmustgetridofoldcoffeethathasaccumulatedinyourmachine.Allofit.You’llneedespressomachinedetergentandanespressomachinebrush.Ifyourespressomachinehasathree-wayvalve,aftereverytwenty-fivetothirty-fivedrinksmade,youneedtobackflushthemachine.Thisforcesespressodetergentupthroughthegroupheadandtubingandintootherplacesabrushcan’tgetto.Eachmanufacturerprovidesinstructionsonhowtobackflush.Theimportantthingistodoit.Afterbackflushing,takeyourbrushandsomeespressodetergentmixedwith

hotwaterandmethodicallyscrubthegrouphead,concentratingontheareaswherecoffeecanaccumulate.Iftheshowerscreencanbeeasilyremoved,takeitoffandsoakitinasolutionofhotwateranddetergentaccordingtotheinstructionsonthedetergentbottle.Thenscrubwithyourbrush.Poptheportafilterbasketoutofyourportafilter.Soakbothinasolutionofespressomachinedetergentandhotwater,andafterafewminutesofsoaking,scrubwell.Wipeeverythingoff.Espressodetergentdoesn’ttastegood,soaftercleaningeverything,youneedtomakeanespresso,dumpit,andthenrinseeverythingwithhotwaterandnodetergent.Nowyou’rereadytomaketwenty-fivemoredrinks.

UNDERSTANDINGTHERMALSTABILITYEspressomachinesarebuilttobelefton.Thermalstabilityisparamountinextractinggoodespressoconsistently,andthethermalmassofanespressomachineactsasaheatsinkthathelpstoregulatethebrewingtemperature.However,keepingthemachinepreheatedishardtodoathome.Youprobablywanttomakeespressofirstthinginthemorning,andyouprobablytendtobeconcernedaboutusingelectricityunnecessarilyandthereforedon’twanttoleaveyourmachineonallnight.Giventhatyouprobablydon’twanttogetuptwohoursearlyjusttopreheatyourmachine,theeasiestwaytoensurethermalstabilityistouseasimpleappliancetimer,whichyoucanpurchaseatahardwarestore.Setittoturnonyourespressomachineanhourortwobeforeyouwakeup.Manufacturersusuallyincludearecommendedwarm-uptimeofabout20

minutes.Somemachinesevenhaveanindicatorlightthatsignalswhentheboilerisatadequatetemperatureandpressure.Butusuallythelightturnsonmuchsoonerthanoptimalthermalstabilitywouldsuggest.Thedifferenceinperformanceisstrikingbetweenaninadequatelywarmed-upmachineandone

performanceisstrikingbetweenaninadequatelywarmed-upmachineandonethatiscompletelywarmedup.

MakingEspresso

Describinghowtomakeespressoinabookisanendeavorthat’sbothfoolishandoptimistic.Thisisaguideonlyinthesensethatyoumaybealittleclosertofeelingconfidentaboutmakingespressoafteryou’vereadit.Readthis,thengooutandbuy5pounds(2.3kg)ofcoffee,thenturnoffyourphone,andmakeonehundredespressi.Thiswilltakefourtofivehours.Dothesamenextweek,andtheweekafterthat.Smelleachespressoyoumake,andtrysipsofmaybeoneoutoften.Espressoisaphysicalact:amanifestationofwill,effort,anddesireexerteduponamachineandanagriculturalproduct.Everyespressoyoumakewillbeslightlydifferent.Familiarityisanessentialpartoftheprocess.Youandyourespressomachine

willevolvetogether—thevariouspartswillfeelstrangeinyourhandswhenyou’refirstlearningtomakeespresso.Thephysicaluncertaintyoflockingaportafilterintothegroupheadorsteamingsomemilkwillvanishafterafewhundredtimes,butprobablynosoonerthanthat.Familiarityandconfidenceare,ultimately,asimplematterofrepetition.Thinkaboutwhatyouwillknowwithyourbodyandyourpalateafteryou’vemadeathousanddrinks—andaftertenthousanddrinks.

GETTINGREADYWarmupyour espressomachine for at least anhour, andpreferablytwo(seeUnderstandingThermalStability).Theportafilterandbasketshouldstayinthemachineasitwarmsup.Getridofanygroundcoffeethatisinyourgrinder.Youwantallthecoffee

thatendsupinyourportafiltertobefreshlyground.Thefollowinginstructionsfordosingtheportafilterinvolvelengthy

descriptions.However,theprocessshouldbeasbriefandefficientaspossible.Foroptimalextraction,theportafilterneedstostaywarm,sominimizetheamountoftimeit’soutofthegrouphead.Becausebottomlessportafiltershaveevenlessmassthanstockportafilters,beevenmoreassiduousabouttheamountoftimetheyspendoutofthegrouphead.

DOSE THE PORTAFILTER Remove the portafilter from the machine andbrieflywipetheportafilterbasketwithadrycloth.Whileyou’relearningtodoseespresso,tareyourportafilteronyourgram

scalesoyoucanbesurethatyou’redosingthesameamountofcoffeeeverytime.Ifyouhaveacommercial-sizeportafilter,dosebetween16and20grams

(0.6and0.7oz)intothedoublebasket.(Don’tusethesinglebasket—ever.Throwitawayorletyourtwo-year-oldplaywithit.)Keepyourdoseconstant.Chooseanumber,say18.5grams(0.65oz),andstickwithituntilyou’remakingsatisfactoryextractions.It’sbesttochangeonlyonevariableatatime.Grindthecoffeeintothetaredportafilterwhileslowlyrotatingtheportafilter,

holdingitunderthegrinderwiththehandlestartingatthreeo’clockandmovingitslowlytonineo’clock,sothecoffeedispersessomewhatevenlyintotheportafilterbasket.

Checktheweighttoconfirmyouhavethecorrectdose.Thecoffeeshouldformamoundthatextendsabovetherimoftheportafilter.Sharplytaptheportafilteronthecountertopthreetimestoreducethesizeof

themound.Thisiscalledsettling.

DISTRIBUTE THE GROUNDS AND TAMP The next step is generallyconsidered the trickiest and most subtle step in the extraction process.Unfortunately,it’salsothemostdifficulttodescribe.Youwantdistributethose18.5gramsofcoffeeequallywithintheportafilterbasket.Thelevelanddensityofthecoffeeneedtobeasevenaspossible;otherwisethehot,pressurizedwaterwill crash through the less-dense regions more quickly and overextract thecoffee.Theresultwillnotbedelicious.Ifyou’reright-handed,takeyourrighthandandformabackwardLwithyour

thumbandindexfinger.Placeyourrighthandovertheportafiltersothemeatyfleshbetweenyourthumbandindexfingerisupagainsttheremainingmoundofespresso.Rotatetheportafilterwithyourlefthand(fromfiveo’clocktonine

espresso.Rotatetheportafilterwithyourlefthand(fromfiveo’clocktonineo’clock)withyourrighthandupagainstthemound.Dothisthreetimes.Themoundshoulddiminishinsizeeachtimeyourotate.Ifallgoeswell,thesurfaceofthecoffeewillberoughlylevel.

Takethetamperandplaceitgentlyonthesurfaceofthegroundcoffee,makingsureit’slevel.Placetheportafilteronaflatsurface,suchaskitchencounter,andpressdownfirmlywiththetamper,keepingyourarmandwriststraightandyourelbowpointingtowardtheceiling.Applyabout30to40pounds(13.5to18kg)ofpressure.Youcancheckwhetheryou’reapplyingenoughpressurebyputtingtheportafilteronabathroomscaleandtamping,butI’vealwaysthoughtthere’ssomethingunsavoryaboutseeingabathroomscaleonakitchencounter.It’syourcall.Tofinishtamping,easeupandrotatethetamper180degrees,ineffect,

polishingthesurfaceofthecoffee.Youhavenowcreatedadense,level,tidypuckofcoffeeinyourportafilter.Ifyouweretoturntheportafilterupsidedown,thepuckwouldstayintheportafilterbecauseyou’vecompressedandsealeditinthebasket.Pull2fluidounces(60ml)ofwaterthroughtheboilertostabilizethebrewing

temperature.Locktheportafilterbackintotheespressomachine.Tareyourespressocuponthegramscale,thenputthecupundertheportafilter.

EXTRACTIONThis is themoment you’ve beenwaiting for.Nowyou get toextracttheespresso.Startatimer,actuatethepump,andthenkneeldownsoyoucanseethehot,

pressurizedwatercoalesceintothefirstdropsofespresso.Ifyouhavedosed,distributed,andtampedcorrectly,youwillseealloftheregionsatthebottomoftheportafilterbasketstarttooozethesamecolorofbrownatthesametime(seephoto).Iftheprocesswentawrysomewhere,you’llseeregionsofmuchlighterbrownandregionsofverydarkbrown.Theespressowillpourfromthelighterregionsfirstbecausethoseareregionsoflesserdensity.You’reaimingforaflowrateofapproximately0.75mlpersecond(or1

teaspoonevery7seconds).Ifeverythinggoesaccordingtoplan,theespressowillgatheratthebottomofthebasketforseveralseconds,thenfallfromthebasketdropbydropuntilathinstreamforms.Hopefullythisstreamisabeautifulreddishbrown.After20to30seconds,thestreamwilllightenincolor.Thisisyourcuetoshutoffthepump,stopthetimer,andremovethecup.Weighthetaredcuponthegramscaletomeasuretheamountofespressoyouextracted.Theweightshouldbeabout35grams(1.25oz),correspondingto35milliliters(0.8floz)ofespresso.Iftheespressolooksbeautiful,withacapofreddishbrowncrema,andsmells

likereallygoodcoffee,takeasip.

TROUBLESHOOTINGIftheespressocameouttoofast—35milliliters(1.2floz) in10 to15seconds—yourgrind is toocoarse.Adjustyourgrinderand tryagain.Iftheespressocameouttooslowly—35milliliters(1.2floz)in40to50

seconds,ornotatall—yourgrindistoofine.Adjustyourgrinderintheoppositedirectionandtryagain.That’sreallyallthereistoit.Extractingespressoisn’tmysterious,it’sjust

verydifficult.Ifyouusefreshhigh-qualitycoffee,grinditatthetime,measurethedose,distributethecoffeeintheportafilterbasketaccurately,timeyourextraction,andmeasureyouroutput,theonlyvariablesarethecoarsenessorfinenessofthegrindandthebrewingtemperatureofyourmachine.Sincedifferentmachineshavedifferentprotocolsforadjustingthebrewingtemperature,theonlyvariablethatfallswithinthescopeofthisguideisthegrinderadjustment.Sotoimproveyourresults,keepeverythingelsethesameandadjustthecoarsenessorfineness.However,onceyoufindthatperfectspotforthegrinder,there’snoguarantee

thatitwillstayperfectasotherfactorschange.Forexample,asthecoffeeages,you’llneedtoloosenupthegrindalittle.Iftheweatherchanges,you’llhavetochangethegrind.Astheweathergetsmorehumid—forexample,ifyouhavea

changethegrind.Astheweathergetsmorehumid—forexample,ifyouhaveacrowdinthekitchenataparty—youneedtoloosenthegrind.Theimportantpartistopayattention—andtopractice,practice,practice.

ANOTEABOUTCREMA

Thecolor,density,texture,andaromaofcremagivesusaninsighttowhattheespressomightpossiblytastelike.Thisdiagnosticcomponentofcremaisoftenthemostremarkedaboutcharacteristicoftheespresso.Ifthecremaonanespressoisathick,luxuriantblanketofdarkmahoganyfoam(inwhichtheconstituentbubblesaresotinytheyarehardtoseewiththeunaidedhumaneye)mottledwithdarkerbrown“tigerstripes,”weanticipatesomethingdeliciousandwell-made;it’sakintothewaycharmarksonagrilledsteaksignalsomethingwonderfulcomingourway.Thecremaontopofanespressoismadeofemulsifiedoils,sugars,andproteinsthatformanetworkoftinyspheres.Eachofthoseholdsapreciousbitofsensoryinformation—muchmoreinformationpercubicmilliliterthanthecoffeealone.However,cremahasthreeveryimportantfunctions,andservingasadiagnosticisonlyone.Cremaalsoactsasa“cap”inmuchthesamewaythat,whenwecup,thecapofgroundcoffeesitsontopoftheliquidcoffeeandtrapsimportantgases.Becausecremaitselfholdssomuchgas,ittrapsmoresensoryinformationwithinitthanespressominusthecrema—anespressothathasthecremascoopedoffthesurfacehaslesstosaythantheespressowiththecremalefton.

ESPRESSOATBLUEBOTTLEAtBlueBottle,wehavetwosetsofgoalsforourespresso,oneforblendsandoneforsingle-origins.Wedon’tthinkofthesegoalsasbeingobjectivelycorrect,butwedothinkofthemashavingcertainvirtuesthatcanbeobjectivelydescribed.Ourgoalsarepersonalandhaveevolvedovertheyearswe’vebeenmakingespresso.TheyhavemoreincommonwiththestyleofoneofthepioneersofmodernAmericanespresso,DavidSchomerofEspressoVivaceinSeattle,thantraditionalItalian-styleespresso.Schomer,whofoundedhisbusinessin1988withasidewalkcoffeecartinSeattle,becamewell-knownforhissweet,well-calibratedristrettoshots,andforintroducingthecountrytolatteart.Ristretto,orrestrictedespresso,isashotthatusesaheavierbrewingratiothan

theclassicItalianbrewingratioof7gramsofgroundcoffeetoproduce30mlofespresso.Anywherefroma1:1to1:1.5brewingratioisusuallyconsideredaristrettoextraction.Overtheyears,Schomerbecameincreasinglyobsessedwithmeasuringandcontrollingthevariablesinvolvedwithmakingespresso,andintheprocesschangedthewayAmericansthinkaboutcoffee.AllofusintheU.S.coffeetradewhomeasurevariables,takegoodnotes,andstrivetomakebeautifuldrinksowehimasubstantialdebtofgratitude.WeusuallyofferfourespressoblendsatBlueBottle.Eachwasdevelopedfor

aspecificlocationandmachine,butallhaveseveralcommonthreads,inbothpreparationandoutcome.Generally,whatwearelookingforwithourblendsisanespressothatisthick,sweet,caramelly,andcomplex,withasubtlebrightnessthatnevercrossesthelinetostridentbutalsoisn’toverlydelicate.Wewantourblendstobelikable.Avuncular.Sturdy.Buttery.Weusuallyhaveonecentral

blendstobelikable.Avuncular.Sturdy.Buttery.Weusuallyhaveonecentralideaforeachblendandstrivetomaintainitfromdaytodayandyeartoyear,fine-tuningblending,roasting,andpreparationtoachievethatidea.Forexample,theideafortheHayesValleyEspressoischocolate-dipped

orangepeel.Duringroasting,thebeansfortheHayesValleyEspressoarenevertakentosecondcrack,buttwoofthecomponentsareusuallytakenprettyclosetothatpoint.Becauseitissodarklyroasted,weliketoserveitthreetosixdaysafterroasting.Ifweroasteditlighter,wewouldneedtoletitrestuptoaweeklonger.Weuseadoublebasketandabottomlessportafiltertoemphasizethethicknessoftheespresso.Weserveitbetween198°Fand200.5°F(92°Cand93.6°C)asmeasuredbythePIDontheLaMarzoccoespressomachinesatourshops.Weusuallydose18.5to21grams(0.65to0.75oz)ofcoffee,basedontheparticularmachine,theseason,theintuitionofthebarista,theweather,andtheroastdate.Wepulllengthyextractionsofabout34secondsforashort30milliliters(slightlyover1floz)ofespresso,adoubleristretto.Theresult,oftentimes,isarealizationofourideaofthisespressoblend.Ultimately,it’sacollaborationamongourgreenbuyer,ourroasters,ourtrainingdepartment,ourshopmanagers,ourbaristas,and,finally,ourcustomers.

Forsingle-originespressi,wearelessinclinedtoexertourwillonthecoffeeandmoreinclinedtoletthecoffeeexpressitselfmorenaturally.Modernpump-drivenespressomachinesproduceadmirablyevenamountsofpressureforthedurationoftheextractionoftheespresso.Ifyouweretoplotthepressureonagraph,youwouldseeaquickspikeupto9barsofpressure,aflatlineoverthe30orsosecondsoftheextraction,andaquickfalloffasthepumpwasturnedoff.Alevermachineproducesafarmore“inaccurate”pressureprofile.But,oddlyenough,thelazyascentto9bars,andtheequallyunhurrieddescent,candolovelythingstothetasteofasingle-origincoffee,whichiswhyweusuallyliketomakesingle-originespressionlevermachines.We’vefoundthatthebell-shapedpressurecurve(asopposedtothemorelinearpressurecurveofthe

shapedpressurecurve(asopposedtothemorelinearpressurecurveofthemodernpump-drivenmachine)extractsasweeter,morerounded,espresso.Plus,vintageleverespressomachinesareaboutthecoolestthingever,andit’swonderfultohavetheseamazingobjects,datingfromasfarbackasthe1950s,restoredandworkingperfectlyinourshops.Generally,ourapproachforextractingsingle-originespressiistodoseslightlylower,extractslightlyfaster,anddrawmorewaterthroughthegrouphead—upto40milliliters(1.4floz)—tobringoutthequalitieswelikedbestonthecuppingtable.Whenyou’vemadeafewhundreddrinksandyourbasictechniquehasbeen

solidifiedbyhoursofpractice,thenyoutoowillbeabletodrawoutcertainvirtuesfromparticularcoffees.Varyingthedose,thetemperature,thelengthofextraction,andthevolumeofextractionwillallowyoutocreateaflavortailoredtoyourowndesires.Eachcoffee,whetherablendorasingle-origin,willhavedifferentattributes.Byworkingonyourtechnique,youcanlearntobringoutamanifestationofthecoffeethatisdeliciousandinterestingtoyou.

STEAMINGMILK

Aswithlearningtomakeespresso,learningtosteammilkisgoingtotakesomepractice.Gooutandbuyabout3gallonsofgood-quality,fresh,localwholemilk,homogenizedandpasteurizedbutnotultra-pasteurized.Whenyoubringithome,refrigerateitimmediatelyuntilwellchilled,ascoldmilksteamsmoreeasilythanwarmmilk.It’stimetoturnyourphoneoffagainandengageinanextendedpracticesession.Whenyoudo,makesureyou’veeatenonlylightly,becauseyou’regoingtohavetotastealotofmilk.Agoodsteamingpitchershouldhavestraightsides,bemadeofstainlesssteel,

andhaveahandleandatight,pronouncedspout.Itshouldholdnomorethandoubletheamountofmilkyou’resteaming.Forexample,ifyou’remakinga12-ounce(355ml)caffelatte,youshouldusea20-ounce(590ml)pitcher.Ifyou’remaking6-ounce(180ml)cappuccinos,usea12-ounce(355ml)pitcher.Pourmilkintoyoursteamingpitchertoapointabout½inch(1.3cm)below

thebaseoftheindentationofthespout.Inordertodevelopaconsistenttechnique,aimtofillthepitchertothisleveleverytime.Openandclosethesteamvalvetoletoutaspurtofhotwater.Thisiscalled

purging.Youshouldpurgethesteamwandbeforeandaftersteaming,eachandeverytime.Aftersteaming,wipethesteamwandwithadampclothsothatnomilkgetsbakedon,eachandeverytime.Acrustysteamwandisthesinglemostdepressingthingaboutgoingintoamediocrecafé.Acrustysteamwandsays,“Icouldcare.Itwouldbeeasyformetocare,butI’mchoosingnotto.”Acrustysteamwandmakesmewonderwhatelsethatcafédoesn’tcareabout.Sowipeyoursteamwand.Whensteamingmilk,youneedtothinkofonethingandonethingonly:

spinningthemilk.Holdthesteamingpitcherbythehandlewithonehandsoyoucantouchthesidewithafingertotestthetemperature.Burythetipofyoursteamwandabout¼inch(6mm)deepinthecoldmilk.Openthesteamvalveallthewaywithyourotherhand.Keepthetipburiedandthebottomofthepitcherparalleltothecounter.Letthesteampushthemilksothatavortexforms.Themilkisspinning!Tinybubbles—ideallysosmallthattheyaren’tvisible—arebeinginjectedintothespinningmilk.Thebubblesarewhatmakecorrectlysteamedmilksomuchmorepleasanttodrinkandperceptiblysweeterthanmilkthat’ssimplywarmed.Touchthepitcherwithafinger.Whenitisalittlehotterthaniscomfortabletotouch,about144°F(62°C),turnoffthesteamvalve—andthenpurge!Thenwipethesteamwand.That’sit.Youwantthemilktospinaroundasfastaspossibleinsidethe

That’sit.Youwantthemilktospinaroundasfastaspossibleinsidethesteamingpitcher.Thegoalistocreatedense,sweet,shiny,elegantmilk.Itshouldbeasshinyaschocolatepuddingandpourlikewhitepaint.Itshouldbesweet,nothot,andinthespring,aftertherainsletup,youshouldbeabletotastewhenthecowsgettogooutsideandeatgrass.Ittakespractice.Ifyougetbubblesthataretoobig,thesteamwandisn’tdeep

enoughinthemilk.Ifthereisnovortexorthefinalproductisn’tshiny—inotherwords,ifyoujustendupwithapitcherofhotmilk—yoursteamwandistoodeep.Sosteamonehundredpitchersofmilk.Smelleachone.Ifitsmellslikeovercookedcustard,it’stoohot.Rinsethepitcherwithcoldwaterbeforesteamingagain.Whenyougetapitcherthatlooksshiny,pouralittleintoademitasseandtakeasip.Itshouldbepleasantlysweet,witharichtexture.Aftersteamingafewgallonsofmilk,youmightbereadytocombinesteamedmilkwithespresso,butnotbefore.

THEBASICPOURThepouriswherealotofhomebaristasgetofftrack.Theysee thehearts, tulips, and rosettasmadebybaristas in their favoritecafés, andthey get frustrated that they can’t pour like that. They want to impress theirbuddiesandleteverypourbecomeareferendumontheirskillsasabarista.Inthis way, latte art becomes an impediment to enjoyment of an otherwisedeliciousandwell-madedrink.Youdidnotpaytwoorthreegrandtobemadeangry; you bought your espresso gear to make you happy. So be patient.Concentrate onmaking expertly extracted espresso and steaming silky, sweet,deliciousmilk.Workonthespinandtastethemilkoften.Leaveembellishmentstotheprofessionalsandworkondeliciousness.Ifthemilkisalittlefoamyorhasaharshtexture,giveyoursteamingpitchera

fewsharptapsonthecounter.Iusedtoendmyshiftsatthefarmers’marketswithdozensoffineflecksofmilkonmyeyeglassesfrompoundingmypitcheronthecart.Afteryouhavebrokenanylargerbubblesbytapping,swirlthemilkinthepitcherasthoughyouwereswirlingafineBordeauxpriortodrinkingit.Thispolishesthesurfaceofthemilkmorefinely.Whenyou’rereadytopour,placethespoutofyoursteamingpitcherasclose

tothesurfaceoftheespressoaspossible.Holdthecupwiththeespressoinyourlefthandifyou’reright-handedandinyourrighthandifyou’releft-handedandholdthepitcherinyourmoredexteroushand.Imaginingthecupasaclock,startpouringatthreeo’clockifyou’reright-handed,andnineo’clockifyou’releft-handed.Pourquickly,otherwisethelighter-densityfoamonthesurfaceofthepitcherwillpourfirst,ruiningyourchancesofaperfectlyamalgamatedliquid.Workyourwayquicklythroughthecentertonineo’clockifyou’reright-

handed,andthreeo’clockifyou’releft-handed.Themilkshouldbepouredquicklyenoughsothatitbreaksthroughthe

surfaceofthecremaandfloatsbeneathit,raisingthecrematothetopofthecup.Whenyou’vemovedfromthestartingpositiontothecenteroftheclockface,imagineyou’reslappingarivalinthecheekswithbutterysoftkidgloves,allwristmotionandnoarms.Ifyou’vemeasuredtheamountofmilkcorrectlyandsteameditcorrectly,you’llbegettingtotheendofyourmilksupplyasyouapproachingtheoppositesideofthecup.It’spossibleyouwillseeashapeemergeinthecrema.Ifyoudo,great.Ifyoudon’t,it’snotsomethingtoworryabout.Again,focusondeliciousness;theprettypourwilleventuallyfollow.

ESPRESSO-BASEDDRINKSSowhatisamacchiato,acappuccino,oracaffelatte?AtBlueBottle,weinstructourbaristasthatthedifferencesaremostlyamatterofproportion:Amacchiatoisservedina2.7-ounce(80ml)demitasseandtheratiois1partmilk(priortosteaming)to1partespresso.Acappuccinoisservedina6-ounce(180ml)cupandis4partsmilkto1partespresso.Andacaffelatteisservedina12-ounce(355ml)cupandis8partsmilkto1partespresso.Theimportantthingtorealizeisthatthereareasmanyconceptionsofwhatconstitutesa“proper”macchiato,cappuccino,orcaffelatteastherearedefinitionsofa“proper”martini.AtBlueBottle,what’simportanttousthatweallagreeonaninternalstandardforsteaming,extracting,andpouringthesedrinks,andthatourcustomersrecognizeandappreciatethisconsistencyfrombaristatobaristaandfromshoptoshop.Weusefull-fatmilk;thesearenottitanicproportions,and,faceit,fatisdelicious.Ifyouinsistonbeingputoffbythefatcontent,chooseamorecompactmacchiatoorcappuccino,andenjoyadeliciousdrink.

THEGIBRALTARAtBlueBottle,we serve a drink in a 4.5-ounce (135ml)rocksglasswithanoctagonalbeveledbasemadebytheLibbeyGlasscompany.

The proportion is usually 1.25 fluid ounces (37 ml) of espresso to 2.5 fluidounces(75ml)ofsteamedmilk,whichfitsnicelybetweenthemacchiatoandthecappuccino.Themilkissteamedthinlyandelegantlyandisn’tveryhot—it’sadrinkbuiltforimmediatequaffing.Evencustomerswhoareinarushdon’tmindsticking around at the bar to have a quick exchange of pleasantries with thebaristaandpolishitoff inless thansixtyseconds.It’s inacuteglass, too,andpeoplelookgreatholdingit.Thatneverhurts.

WehadtheseglassesaroundwhenweweregettingreadytoopenthekioskonLindenStreet.Anemployeehadboughtthem,mistakenlythinkingthattheywouldbebigenoughforcupping.Theyweren’t,soweputthemaside,intheircardboardboxprintedwiththenameGibraltarinbigcapitalletters.Wepulledthemofftheshelfagainwhentheespressomachineatthekioskwasreadyfortesting.Weneededtoseewhatthecremalookedlike,andthetransparencyandsmallsizeoftheglassesmadethemperfectforevaluatingshots—somethingthatwascrucial,asourespressomachinewasabitofaFrankenstein.ItwasthefirstPID-controlledLaMarzoccoinCalifornia,andthatplusourunfamiliaritywithpump-drivenmachines—asopposedtolever-operatedmachines—atthattimemadetheR&Dprocesslengthyandoftenpainful.LindenStreetwasprettyseedywhenweopenedthekiosk,buttherewere

somecorsetmakersworkingatastorecalledDarkGardennextdoor.Itdidn’ttakelongbeforetheystartedwanderingoutofthestoretoseewhatwasgoingonatthekiosk.IfwewerehavingagooddayattheLaMarzocco,wewouldofferthemanespresso.ButmanyoftheGardeners,aswecametocallthem,were

themanespresso.ButmanyoftheGardeners,aswecametocallthem,weredainty,soevenanespressothatwasuptoourstandardsresultedincutelywrinklednosesandtheexclamation,“That’stoostrong!”Westartedpouringalittlesteamedmilkontopoftheespressoforthem,likeababylatte.Eventually,afterweopenedarandompasserbyaskedwhatthatdrinkwascalled,andaquick-wittedbarista(whohassincegoneontoadistinguishedcareerincoffee)saidwithasmirk,“Oh,that’sourGibraltar.”Andjustlikethat,peoplestartedorderingit.Thekiosk’svinylmenuhad

alreadybeenprinted,sowehadinadvertentlycreatedanoff-menuitemwithcachet.It’sreallyacortado—abeveragepopularatSpanishespressobars,wheretherelativelysmallamountofmilk,suavelysteamed(andservedinacuteglass),takesthestingoutofthepunishinglydark-roastedSpanishespresso.Butwedidn’tknowthatatthetime.Muchtomypuzzlement,othercoffeebarssoonbegantoofferthedrinkon

theirmenus,andnowyoucanorderGibraltarsacrosstheUnitedStates,inEurope,andeveninJapan.Idon’tthinkthebeverageweinventedfortheGardenerswasabsolutelynecessaryintheuptickinpopularityofa4.5-ounce(135ml)espressodrink.Idoliketothink,however,thatwerecognizedandacceleratedtheunarticulateddesireforashort,concentratedespressodrinkthatisconsumedwhereit’smade.

MOCHASANDHOTCHOCOLATE

Whilethevastmajorityofourespressodrinksarethebigfour(espresso,macchiato,cappuccino,andcaffelatte),wealsotakeprideinservingahigh-qualityhotchocolate.Evenatthefarmers’markets,wemakeaganachewithdrinkingchocolatefromTCHO,aSanFranciscobean-to-barchocolatier,andaddsteamedmilktomakehotchocolate.It’sdelicious,andgreatforkidsandpeoplewhodon’tdrinkcoffee.Sincewehavechocolateganacheandespressoavailableatalltimes,itwouldbebadmannerstorefusecustomersamocha,whichisbasicallyashotofespressoinhotchocolate.Besides,thetraditionofcombiningcoffee,chocolate,andmilkorcreamdatesbacktoeighteenth-centuryTurin’sCaffèalBicerin.Soeventhoughit’snotapurist’sdrink,wefeelthatawell-craftedmochacanbemadeandservedwithintegrityandpride.Inaddition,we’venoticedthatthemochaoftenservesasa“gatewaydrug,”offeringthosewhoaren’taccustomedtostrongercoffeeandmoreausteredrinksanentréeintoourotherofferings.

GanacheForHotChocolateandMochas

MAKESENOUGHFOR2TO3DRINKS

Thisisthewater-basedganachethatweuseasthefoundationforourhotchocolatesandmochas.Afterextensivetestsbyourtrainingdepartment,wefoundthatusingwater(ratherthanmilkorcream)tomeltthechocolateyieldedthemostrichanddeliciousdrinks.We’reluckytohaveneighborsonbothcoastswhomakechocolateforus;inSanFrancisco,weuseadrinkingchocolatemadebyTCHO,andinNewYork,weuseasingleorigindarkchocolatemadebytheMastBrothers.Thetypeofchocolateyouusewillaffectthestrengthoftheganache,soyoumayneedtoadjusttheamounttotaste.

3ounces(85g)coarselychoppeddarkchocolate¼cup(2floz/60ml)boilingwater

Putthechocolateinasmallbowlor2-cupglassmeasuringcup.Pourtheboilingwateroverthechocolateandstiruntilsmoothandthechocolateismelted.Ifyouhaveanimmersionblender,useittofullyemulsifythemixture.Theganachecanbestoredinanairtightcontainerintherefrigeratorforupto

1week.Reheatgentlyinamicrowavebeforeusing.

Mocha

MAKES1DRINK

Sure,themochaisoftenagatewaytoothercoffeedrinks(seediscussiononmochasandhotchocolate)—itjusttakessomecustomerslongertomovealongthanothers.OneofourveryfirstregularsattheHayesValleykioskbecamesoaddictedtomochasthat,attheapexofhishabit,heconsumedfivemochasinoneday,earningthenicknameFiveMochaDavid.Eventually,Davidmovedontodrinkingstraightblackcoffee,buthehasn’tbeenabletoshakehischocolateymoniker.Sincetheganacheisextra-thickandisusedwarm,wehavetorespectfullydenyrequestsforicedmochas;we’vefoundthechocolatewillseizeupintounsightlyglobsinacoldandicyenvironment.Note:omittheespressoand,voilà,you’vegotahotchocolate.

3tablespoonsGanacheforHotChocolateandMochas8fluidounces(1cup/240ml)steamedmilkorsteamedsoymilk1doubleristrettoshotofespresso

Puttheganacheina10-ounceceramiccup.Pulltheespressodirectlyovertheganache,thenpourthesteamedmilkoverthetopfrom12to20inchesabovethecup.Theforceofgravitywillbealltheagitationthatisrequiredtomixtheganachewiththemilk.Nostirringwillberequired.Serveimmediately.

EAT

WhenJamesandImetin2002,hehadjuststartedBlueBottle,andatthattimeMiette,thecakeshopIco-ownedwithMegRayandLizDunn,wasonlyaboutayearold.JamesandIwerebothgettingourstartinbusinessasoutdoorvendorsatBayAreafarmers’markets,heattheOldOaklandmarketonFridays,sellingcoffeebeans,andmeattheDowntownBerkeleymarketonSaturdays,sellingcakes.AtMiette,wehadacoffeecart,completewithacutepinkawning,thatIprecariouslyhauledtotheBerkeleyfarmers’marketeveryweektosetupnexttomytableofcakes.WewereJames’ssecondwholesaleaccount,andthoughhemaybepainedbythisadmission,wechosehiscoffeebasedentirelyonthefactthathisbagswereadorable.AndIhavetoconfessthatIwasacompletedisasteratmakingcoffeedrinks.Fortunately,acutedress,abashfulsmile,andaperky“Wouldyoulikeacookiewiththat?”couldusuallyremedythesituation.Andluckily,sinceBlueBottlewassonew,veryfewpeopleknewhowdeliciousthecoffeecouldbe.Totrytoimprovethesituation,IaskedJamestocomehelpmakecoffee

drinksonSaturdaysinBerkeley,whichsoonturnedintobegginghimtobuythecartfromus.Luckilyhefinallydid,andhewasabletokeepthespotnexttomeattheDowntownBerkeleymarket,becomingmyin-housetastingpanel(seethestoryofmyChocolateParisianMacarons),andthenewdarlingofthemarket.Weweregreatfriendsand,longbeforewebecameacouplein2004,weunderstoodandadmiredeachother’sworkethic,determination,aestheticsensibilities,andcommitmenttomakingthebestpossibleproduct.

OnOctober29,2008,JamesandIweremarried.IwasstillinmyweddingdressafteraquietceremonyatSanFranciscoCityHallandaquickcoffeewithfriendsatourHayesValleykiosk,whenwetookacabtothelawyer’sofficetosignthepaperworkfinalizingthesaleofmyinterestinMiette.And,justlikethat,Istartedanewlife.Iwasluckytohaveathree-monthsabbatical,afterwhichIhadplannedtostartasmallpastrydepartmentforBlueBottleandthenmoveontoopenapieshoponmyown.Ispentthefinalmonthofthissabbaticalgatheringfamilyrecipesfromfriends,playingwithflavorsthatwouldpairwellwithcoffee,anddevelopingthefirstsetofpastriesforourtworetaillocations,thekioskinHayesValleyandtheMintPlazacafé.Whatstartedasashort-termprojecttohelpmybelovedturnedintoajobI

neverwantedtoleavewhenweopenedourcaféintherooftopsculpturegardenattheSanFranciscoMuseumofModernArt.Yearsearlier,whenIwasanartstudent,WayneThiebaud’scakepaintingscapturedmyimaginationandledmedownthepathtobecomingapastrychef.Atournewcafé,Icouldturnmyartbackgroundintoaever-rotatinglineofdessertsinspiredbytheartondisplayinthemuseum,including,ofcourse,cakesinspiredbythepaintingsofWayneThiebaud.BlueBottlehasgrownbyleapsandboundssinceIstartedworkingforthecompanyin2009,andInowoverseethreepastrydepartments,oneatourOaklandroastery,whichproducescookiesandcakesforfourofourretailshops,atinykitchenattheSFMOMA,andanevensmallerkitcheninourBrooklynroastery.Wehavedifferentmenusforeachandadelightfulcrewofbakerswhomakebeautifulthings,buttheonecommonthreadisthateverypastrywemakeisdesignedtopairdeliciouslywithacupofcoffee.

You’llfindrecipesforalotofthosepastries,frombreakfasttreatstoaversionofthemacaronsthatoncegaveJamesgoosebumps,inthefollowingpages.YouwillalsoseeaselectionofthesavorybreakfastandlunchdishesweserveattheMintPlazacafé,aswellasafewrecipesfromfriendswhohavecomeupwithinventivewaystocookwithourcoffee.Justasinmakingcoffee,thereareaninfinitenumberofsmallvariablesin

cookingthatcanaffectyourresults,fromtechniquestoequipmenttoingredients,andhowthey’remeasured.Beforeyougetstarted,hereareafewpointerstokeepinmind.—C.F.

Equipment

Allofourrecipesarewrittenwiththeassumptionthatyouhaveastandmixer.Mosthavebeentestedwithahandmixerand,insomecases,withjustawoodenspoonandabowl,andinallcasestheycameoutquitewell.Ifyouaren’tusingastandmixer,letyourintuitionandexperiencewithyourequipmentguideyou.Ovensareallsodifferentthatitwouldbeimpossibleformetogiveperfectly

accuratebakingtimesthatwouldworkineveryhomekitchen.Thankstomygroupofhomerecipetesters,theserecipesweremadeinavarietyofovens:myoldWedgewoodstoveathome,newovenswithspot-ontemperatures,convectionovens,andeventoasterovens.Asexpected,bakingtimevariedforeach,sousingthevisualcuestoassesswhenbakedgoodsaredoneisthemostfail-safewaytogo.OneofthemostexcitingdevelopmentsformeasahomebakerwaswhenI

realizedthatIdidn’thavetofollowinstructionsaboutwhattypeofpantoputmycakeinorwhatsizetomakemycookies.WhatI’vespecifiedintheserecipesiseitherhowwemakethematBlueBottleorhowIthinktheywouldbeeasiestforyoutomakeathome.Soyouhaveanunderstandingofhowtosuccessfullyexecuteeachrecipe,IsuggestyoufirstmakeitasIspecify.Butlet’ssay,forexample,youhavesomefriendscomingoverforSundaybrunchinthegarden,andyoudon’twanttobebotheredwithcuttingandservingacake;goaheadandmaketheFruitBuckleassmallcupcake-sizeindividualcakes.Ofcourse,you’llhavetoadjustthebakingtimetoaccountforthesmallercakes,buthavingpreviouslymadethecakeinalargepan,youcaneasilyusevisualandothercuestocheckfordonenessinthesmallercakes.Aslongasyou’rewatchingandpayingattentiontothecues,youcanvarythesizeofcookiesorbakingpansandhandlethepeculiaritiesofyourovenwithgrace.Oneofthegreatestkitchengadgetsyoucanhaveisathermocouple(shown

below).Athermocoupleisanelectronictemperaturesensorthatcanbepurchasedatthehardwarestore,andistypicallyusedinscienceandindustryfortestingthetemperatureofovensandairconditioning.They’refairlyinexpensive,absolutelyaccurate,andveryeasytouseandclean.Iusemineforverifyingmyoventemperatureandfortakingtemperaturereadingsonsugarsyrupsandothertemperature-sensitiverecipes,suchasHomemadeYogurt.It’saninvaluableandextremelyaccuratetoolthatisworthinvestinginforbothbakingandcoffeepreparation.

WeightMeasurements

WhileIlovemythermocouplefortemperaturemeasurementstoatenthofadegree,Ilovemypartialgramscaleevenmorebecauseitmeasurestoahundredthofagram.AllthreeBlueBottlepastrykitchensareequippedwiththreetypesofdigitalscales:onethatweighsupto5,000fullgrams(5kg,or11lb),onethatweighsupto2,000grams(2kg,or4.4lb)tothehundredthofagram,andonemeasuresonlyupto140grams(4.9oz)butisthemostaccurateforsmallmeasurements,suchasforspices.AsRoseLevyBeranbaum,thelegendaryauthorofTheCakeBible,saidinreferencetowhether1gramreallymakesadifferenceintheendresult,“Ifonestartsbecominglax,theconceptof‘willitreallymakeadifference’soonwouldbetransferredtootherthingswhereitmightindeedmakeadifference.Beingexactinmeasuringisagoodapproachtolife.”Allofthatsaid,Ihaven’tincludedtheweightsforsmallamountsinthisbook.

Forhome-sizerecipes,thesesmallquantitiescanbemeasuredmoreaccuratelyinteaspoonsandtablespoonsthanonmostscales.ButIhaveincludedweightsforeverythingelse,andusingweightmeasurementswillhelpensurethatyoutoachievethebestresultswhenbaking.Rose’sconversionchartinTheCakeBiblehasbecomeastandardforweight-to-volumeconversions,andhervaluesarewhatIhaveusedhere.

ANoteaboutMeasuringFlourbyVolume

Ofalloftheingredientsintheserecipes,flouristhetrickiesttomeasureaccuratelybyvolume,yetitisalsooftenthemostcrucialforsuccessinapastry.Forall-purposeflour,Iusetheconversionof140grams(4.9oz)percup—slightlymorethanRose’s135grams(4.8oz).Thisisbasedonusingthedipandsweepmethodofmeasuringacupofflour.Youscoopa1-cupmeasuredirectlyintotheflourandthensweepwithaknifetolevel.Thisfillsthecupwithupto20moregramsofflourthanifyouspoontheflourintothecup.Ifthefearofusingwildlyinaccurateamountsofflourisn’tenoughforyouto

gooutandbuyadigitalgramscale,thenconsiderthereducednumberofdishesyouwillneedtowash.Whenyouweighingredients,allyouneedisabowlortwoandascale;youwon’tneedtodirtyseveraldrymeasuringcupsplusyourliquidmeasuringcup,andneveragainwillyouquestionwhetheryouneedtochopnutsbeforemeasuringorleavethemwhole.AsGertrudeSteinmighthavesaid,agramisagramisagram.

Ingredients

Unlessspecificallystatedintherecipe,allingredientsshouldbeatroomtemperature,especiallybutterandeggs.Toquicklygetbuttertoroomtemperature,cutitintosmallpiecesandletitsitinawarmspotinthekitchenforabout10minutes.Toquicklygeteggstoroomtemperature,placethewholeeggs(intheirshells)inasmallbowl,coverwithlukewarmwater,between90°Fand100°F(32°Cand38°C),andletstandforabout10minutes.Forrecipeswhereyoufirstcreambutterandsugarandthenaddeggs,usingingredientsatroomtemperaturewillbewhatensuresaperfectlyemulsifieddoughorbatter.Usestandardlargeeggs,weighingapproximately50grams(1.8oz)perwhole

egg(outofitsshell).Whenchoosingchocolate,optforsomethingdarkthatyouwouldlovetoeatonitsown,withacacaolevelofatleast60percent.Regardingsalt,Ilikemysweetsonthesaltierside,oftenwithlargergrainstogiveoccasionalunexpectedhitsofsalt.Koshersaltisthedefaultintheserecipes,andIspecifyMaldonbrandseasaltwhenlargergrainsarepreferable.(Seemoreonthedifferencesinbetweentypesofsaltandhowtosubstituteifyoudon’thavethetypecalledforinyourcupboard.)Beyondtheseconsiderations,therestisentirelyuptoyou.Ichoosetobake

withorganicdairy,eggs,andflours,andItrytosupportlocalpurveyorswheneverpossible,bothathomeandinourproductionkitchens.Althoughtheseproductsareabitmoreexpensive,Ithinktheyyieldasuperiorresult.Iencourageexperimentingwithspicesandoccasionallyotheringredients,andIoftenoffersuggestionsinthisregard.Pleaseseeideasforsimplesubstitutionsthatwillpersonalizetheserecipestosuityourtastes.Goforth:bake,cook,anddrinkcoffee!Itismyhighesthopethatyouenjoy

theprocessalmostasmuchasthefinalproducts.

WithYourMorningCoffee

BrownSugarandWinterSpiceGranolaHomemadeYogurtLiègeWafflesZachteWaffles

StrawberryBucklewithLemon-PistachioStreuselStoutCoffeeCakewithPecan-CarawayStreusel

PoachedEggsonToastCatalanEggswithBraisedGreensandTomatoSauce

BlueBottleBenedict

BrownSugarandWinterSpiceGranola

BrownSugarandWinterSpiceGranola

MAKES12TO15SERVINGS/HANDS-ONTIME:25MINUTESFROMSTARTTOFINISH:2HOURS,30MINUTES

ItwouldbequiteastretchtocallBlueBottle’sgranolahealthfood.Saltyandsweetandbrokenintobigslabs,itissweetenedwithbrownsugarsyrupanddelicatelyspicedwithcinnamonandnutmeg.Thisrecipeincludesasomewhatgenerousmeasureofcoarseseasalttomakeitutterlycrave-worthy.It’sgreatservedwithmilk,fantasticwithyogurt(especiallyHomemadeYogurt),andstupendouswithfruit.Thelong,slowbakingatalowtemperaturegentlycookstheoatsandnutsandresultsinatexturethat’sbothtenderandcrunchy.Withtheheavenlysmelloftoastingnuts,cinnamon,andnutmeg,you’llfindithardtoleavethegranolaalonewhileit’sintheoven.Butbepatientandbakeit,withoutstirring,untilcrunchyanddry;thisisthekeytocreatingbigchunkssuitableforsnacking.Thisrecipemakesafairlylargebatchsize.Itcaneasilybehalved,but

betweenthetwo-plushoursofbaketimeandthelongstoragelife,Ithinkit’sjustaswelltomakeabigbatch.

1½cups(11.5oz/325g)packedlightbrownsugar⅓cup(80ml/80g)water4cups(14oz/400g)rolledoats1½cups(6oz/170g)walnuts,coarselychopped1½cups(6oz/170g)pecans,coarselychopped1teaspoonfreshlygroundcinnamon1teaspoonfreshlygroundnutmeg¾teaspoonMaldonseasalt⅓cup(80ml/71g)canolaoil2½teaspoonsvanillaextract

Preheattheovento250°F(120°C).Inasmallheavysaucepan,combinethebrownsugarandwater.Cookover

medium-highheat,stirringconstantly,untilthesugariscompletelydissolvedandthemixturecomestoaboil.Letcooltoroomtemperature.Inalargebowl,combinetheoats,walnuts,pecans,cinnamon,nutmeg,and

saltandmixwell.Addtheoilandvanillaextracttothebrownsugarsyrupandstiruntil

thoroughlycombined,thenpourovertheoatmixture.Mixwellwithyourhands,

thoroughlycombined,thenpourovertheoatmixture.Mixwellwithyourhands,untilthoroughlycombinedanduniformintexture;itwillbemessy,butyourhandsarethebesttoolforthejob.Transfertoarimmed13by18-inch(33by46-cm)bakingsheetandpatdown

inanevenlayer;itwillbethickbutshouldn’tbehigherthantherimofthepan.Bakefor75minutes.Removefromovenandusealargemetalspatulatoflip

thegranola,keepingitinaslargeofchunksaspossible.Returnthegranolatotheovenandbakeforabout60minutes,untilcompletelydryandnolongeratallsoftifyoutakeabite.Letcoolbeforeserving.Storedinatightlysealedcontaineratroomtemperature,thegranolawillkeep

for2weeks.

HomemadeYogurt

HomemadeYogurt

MAKESABOUT8SERVINGS/HANDS-ONTIME:30MINUTESFROMSTARTTOFINISH:10HOURS,30MINUTES

JamesandIlovetarthomemadeyogurt,andwemaketwoquartsofiteachweekforourbreakfastsathome.Atypicalmorningatourhouselookslikethis:theNewYorkTimesspreadoutoverthetable,JamesinhisBlueBottlepajamas,acappuccinoforhim,apotofteaforme,andabigbowlofyogurtforeachofus,usuallytoppedwithhomemadegranola,orwithfreshfruitfromthefarmers’marketandchoppedalmonds.Makingyogurtisaneasyweeklyritual,butbesuretostarttheprocesswhenyourovenoranotherwarmspotwillbeavailableforsixhours.Althoughtheprocessrequiresverylittleequipment,accuratetemperaturesare

crucialtoasuccessfuloutcome,soyoudoneedakitchenthermometer.Themicroorganismsthatturnliquidmilkintocreamyyogurtwilldieattemperaturesabove120°F(49°C).Soonceyouaddyourstarteryogurt,makesurethetemperatureofthemixtureneverrisesanyhigherthanthis.Becausetherearenoemulsifiersorgellingagentsinhomemadeyogurt,it

generallyisn’tasuniformintextureasstore-bought.However,itispure,simple,tangy,andmoresatisfyingthananycommercialyogurtI’veevertried.

4cups(945ml/968g)wholemilk2tablespoonsplainyogurtwithlivecultures

Inaheavymediumsaucepan,heatthemilkovermediumheattojustbelowboiling,between180°Fand190°F(82°Cand88°C).Removefromtheheatandletcoolto110°F(43°C).Placetheyogurtinasmallbowl,thenadd¼cupofthe110°F(43°C)milk

andwhiskuntilsmoothandthoroughlycombined.Addthismixtureintotheremainingwarmmilk,andwhiskthoroughly.Pourtheyogurtintoaliddedheatproofcontainer,suchasa1-quart(945ml)

Masonjarormultiplesmallerjars,orthecontainersofayogurtmaker.Ifusingayogurtmaker,followthemanufacturer’sinstructions.Otherwise,

puttheyogurtinawarmplace,suchastheovenwithonlythepilotlightlitoratopanelectricheatingpadsettomediumandcoveredwithatowel.Theidealtemperatureisbetween100°F(38°C)and105°F(41°C).Ifnotusingayogurt

temperatureisbetween100°F(38°C)and105°F(41°C).Ifnotusingayogurtmaker,checkthetemperatureofthemixtureoccasionallyandmakesureitdoesn’texceed120°F(49°C).Letsitforabout6hours—lessforaflavorthatisn’tastart,andlongerforaflavorthat’smoretart.Refrigerateforatleast4hours,untilcool,orideallyovernightbeforeserving.

Storedinasealedcontainerintherefrigerator,theyogurtwillkeepfor1week.

LiègeWaffles

LiègeWaffles

MAKESABOUT6WAFFLES/HANDS-ONTIME:30MINUTESFROMSTARTTOFINISH:2HOURS

TheseBelgian-stylewafflesaremadetoorderandservedpipinghotatourFerryBuildingcafé.BecausetheFerryBuildingisstillanactivetransitcenter,aswellasaquickstopoverforFinancialDistrictlunches,shoppersareoftenintoomuchofahurrytositandenjoyawafflebreakfast.TheLiègewaffle,withitscaramelizedcrustthatmakessyrupunnecessary,istheperfectportablebreakfastorsweetsnack.StuartBrioza,ourgoodfriendandsavorymenuadviser,createdthisrecipewhenhefoundourdusty,unusedwaffleiron,whichhadbeenimportedfromBelgiumandrewiredbyourespressotechArnoHolschuh,sittinginstorage.ThatformerlyabandonedappliancehasbecomeanobjectofobsessionformanyFerryBuildingcustomers.

SUBSTITUTIONS:1teaspoonvanillaextractcanbesubstitutedforthevanillabean.All-purposeflourcanbesubstitutedforthepastryflour.

1¼teaspoonsactivedryyeast,or1½teaspoonsfreshyeast¼cup(60ml/60g)lukewarmwater,between90°Fand100°F(32°Cand38°C)½cup(4oz/113g)unsaltedbutter¾cup(3.7oz/105g)pastryflour⅔cup(3.2oz/91g)all-purposeflour1tablespoongranulatedsugar,plusmoreforsprinkling½teaspoonMaldonseasalt5eggs(8.75oz/250g),atroomtemperature1vanillabean3tablespoonspearlsugar(seeNote)

Inasmallbowl,combinetheyeastandwaterandletsitfor5minutes.Meltthebutterandletcooltoabout115°F(46°C).Siftthefloursand

granulatedsugarintoaseparatelargebowl.Stirinthesalt.Cracktheeggsintoamediumbowl.Splitthevanillabeaninhalf,scrapethe

pulpintotheeggs,andwhiskvigorouslyuntilwellblended.Addtheeggmixturetotheflourmixture,alongwiththeyeastandmeltedbutter.Whiskuntilsmooth.Coverthebatterwithplasticwrapandletrestuntildoubledinsize,1hour,or

refrigerateovernight.Gentlymixthepearlsugarintothedoughandletrestfor15minutes.Preheat

Gentlymixthepearlsugarintothedoughandletrestfor15minutes.PreheataBelgian-stylewafflemakertomedium-highheat.Scoop½cupto¾cup(120mlto150ml)ofthebatterintothewafflemaker

andsprinkleabitofgranulatedsugarontop.(Amountsofbattercanvarybetweenwafflemakers;erronthesmallersideuntilyouknowhowmuchmakestheperfectwaffle.)Cookuntiltheindicatorlightgoesofforuntilbrownedandcrisp.Serveimmediately.

NOTE:Pearlsugariscompressedbeetsugarthatlooksabitlikerocksalt.Ithasa veryhighmeltingpoint,whichmakes it staywholewhile baking, addinganextracrispnesstothewaffles.

ZachteWaffles

MAKES6TO7WAFFLES/HANDS-ONTIME:30MINUTESFROMSTARTTOFINISH:30MINUTES

WeservethesebigbutterywafflesattheMintPlazacafé.UnliketheLiègeWaffles,whicharedesignedtobeeatenon-the-go,thesesoftandtenderwafflesaremeanttobeslatheredwithbutterandmaplesyrupandenjoyedatthebreakfasttable,coffeeinhand,onaslowweekendmorning.TheideatoservewafflescamefromatriptoTanakaBar,anincredibletwenty-four-hoursiphoncoffeecaféinKyoto,whereaphoto-illustratedwafflemenuispresentedalongsidethecoffeemenu.ThereisnodrunkpersonmoredignifiedthanayoungJapanesemaninTanakaBarat6a.m.,cladinaperfectlytailoredbluesuitandtie,eatingawaffleanddrinkingasiphoncoffee,tryingtosoberupintimeforthetraintowork.

SUBSTITUTIONS:½teaspoonvanillaextractcanbesubstitutedforthevanillabean.

2½cups(12.3oz/350g)all-purposeflour½cup(3.5oz/100g)sugar2teaspoonsbakingpowder½teaspoonkoshersalt2eggs(3.5oz/100g),atroomtemperature2cups(475ml/484g)half-and-half½vanillabean7tablespoons(3.5oz/100g)unsaltedbutter,melted,plussoftenedbutterforservingMaplesyrup,forserving

Inalargebowl,combinetheflour,sugar,bakingpowder,andsaltandmixwell.Inamediumbowl,combinetheeggsandhalf-and-halfandwhiskvigorously

untilwellblended.Splitthevanillabean,scrapethepulpintotheeggmixture,andwhiskuntilthevanillaseedsareevenlydistributed.Addtotheflourmixtureandstirjustuntilevenlycombined.Gentlystirinthemeltedbutter.Preheatawaffleirontomedium-highheat.Cookeachwaffleuntilthe

indicatorlightgoesofforuntilbrownedandcrisp.Serveimmediatelywithsoftenedbutterandmaplesyrup.Wafflesarethemostdelicious,andhavethecrispiestexterior,wheneatenhotfromtheiron.Ifeatingwithagroup,thewafflescanbeheldina200°F(93°C)ovenuntilallofthewafflesarefinished,

wafflescanbeheldina200°F(93°C)ovenuntilallofthewafflesarefinished,buttheexteriorwon’tbeasperfectlycrisp.Anyleftoverscanbecooledcompletely,storedinazipperedfreezerbag,and

frozenforupto1month.Reheattheminthetoasterforaneasyweekdaybreakfast.

StrawberryBucklewithLemon-PistachioStreusel

StrawberryBucklewithLemon-PistachioStreusel

MAKESONE9-INCH(23CM)CAKE;SERVES6TO8/HANDS-ONTIME:45MINUTES

FROMSTARTTOFINISH:1HOUR,45MINUTES

JamesisveryproudtohaveapastrydepartmentatBlueBottleCoffee.Helovesthatmakingourownfoodgivesuscontroloverthecustomer’sentireexperience.HehasmadeabigdealaboutnothavingwhathecallsaPBM(perfunctorybranmuffin)onhisshelves.Well,itturnsoutthatmanypeoplereallyliketohaveamuffinforbreakfast,andcustomerswhocameinexpectingtofindoneinthepastrycaseweredisappointedthatwedidn’thaveanythingresemblingamuffin.Knowingfullwellthat“muffin”isaeuphemismfor“cakeforbreakfast,”Idecidednottohideit—Idevelopedabuttery,fruit-basedcakethatweserveinanelegantpapercup.AbuckleisatraditionalAmericancake,essentiallyacoffeecakewithfruit,

usuallyblueberries.Legendhasitthatyou’resupposedtopilesomuchstreuselontopofthecakethatitbucklesduringbaking,creatingaravineoffruitandstreuselgoodnessthroughthecenterofthecake.I’veneveractuallyseenabucklebuckle,butwhenmakingthisrecipeathome,Iliketobakeitasonelargecake,whichincreasesthesurfacearea(and,therefore,chancesofbuckling)andreassuresJamesthatitisacoffeecake,notamuffin.

SUBSTITUTIONS:Thebuckleallowsustoshowcaseseasonalfruitinourpastrycases;forexample,atraditionalblueberrybucklewithvanilla-almondstreuselinthespring;araspberryandpeachbucklewithlemon-pistachiostreuselinthesummer;pumpkinbucklewithspicedwalnutstreuselintheautumn;oraroastedmandarinbucklewithpecanstreuselinthewinter.Substituteanequalamountofanyfruitforthestrawberries.Substituteanynutforthepistachios,andaddanytypeofcitruszesttothestreusel.Forapumpkinbuckle,substitute¾cuppureedroastedpumpkinorotherwintersquash(seeNote)forthefruit,andadd¼teaspooneachofgroundnutmegandcinnamontotheflourmixturewhenmakingthecake.

STREUSEL6tablespoons(3oz/85g)coldunsaltedbutter

1cup(4.9oz/140g)all-purposeflour½cup(3.5oz/100g)sugar¾teaspoonkoshersaltFinelygratedzestof1lemon½cup(2.7oz/76g)unsaltedshelledpistachios,coarselychopped

CAKE1cup(4.9oz/140g)all-purposeflour1teaspoonbakingpowder11tablespoons(5.5oz/156g)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature¾cup(5.3oz/150g)sugar¾teaspoonkoshersalt2eggs(3.5oz/100g),atroomtemperature1teaspoonvanillaextract1cup(4.7oz/133g)strawberries,cutintobite-sizedpieces

TOMAKETHESTREUSEL,cutthebutterintosmallchunksandletsitatroomtemperaturefor5minutes.Inthebowlofastandmixerfittedwiththepaddleattachment,combinethe

flour,sugar,salt,andzest.Addthebutterandmixonlowspeeduntilthemixtureresemblescoarsebeachsand,about2minutes.Addthepistachiosandmixjustuntilthestreuselbeginstoclumptogetherandlooklikegravel,beingcarefulnottoletitcometogethertoformadough.Ifnotusingthestreuselrightaway,storeitinanairtightcontainerintherefrigeratorforupto3daysorinthefreezerforupto1month.

TOMAKETHECAKE,preheattheovento350°F(175°C).Butterandflourthebottomandsidesofa9-inch(23cm)springformpan.Sifttheflourandbakingpowderintoasmallbowl.Inthebowlofastandmixerfittedwiththepaddleattachment,beatthebutter

onlowspeeduntilsmooth,1to2minutes.Addthesugarandsaltandmixonlowspeeduntilwellcombined.Scrapedownthesidesofthebowl,thenmixonmediumspeeduntillightandfluffy,4to5minutes.Inasmallbowl,combinetheeggsandthevanillaextractandwhisk

vigorouslyuntilwellblended.Withthemixeronmediumspeed,addtheeggmixtureveryslowly,ina

steadystream,andmixuntilwell-incorporatedandverysmooth,about30seconds.Scrapedownthesidesofthebowl,thenmixonmediumspeedfor30moreseconds.Scrapedownthesidesofthebowl,thenaddtheflourmixture.Mixonlow

speedjustuntiluniformintexture.Usearubberspatulatogentlyfoldinthefruituntilevenlyincorporated.

TOASSEMBLEANDBAKE,pourthebatterintothepreparedpan,smoothitwithanoffsetorrubberspatula,andsprinklethestreuselevenlyoverthetop.Bakefor55to60minutes,untilthestreuselisdryandgoldenandthebuckleisfirmandspringsbackwhengentlypressedinthecenter,rotatingthepanmidwaythroughthebakingtime.Letthecakecoolinthepanonawirerackfor30minutes,thenremovefrom

thepan.Servewarmoratroomtemperature.Storedinacoveredcontaineratroomtemperature,itwillkeepforupto3days.

NOTE:Tomake pumpkin puree, preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C).Halve anediblevarietyofpumpkinoranacorn,kabocha,curry,orbutternutsquashandscoopouttheseeds.Putthehalvesfacedownonanoiledbakingsheetandbakefor about 45 minutes, until the squash collapses and is easily pierced with aknife.Letcooluntilitcanbehandledsafely,thenscrapeoutthepulp.Mashorprocess in a food processor until smooth. For a quicker, if less distinguishedpuree,it’sfinetouseunsweetenedcannedpumpkinpuree.

StoutCoffeeCakewithPecan-CarawayStreusel

StoutCoffeeCakewithPecan-CarawayStreusel

MAKESONE9-INCH(23CM)COFFEECAKE;SERVES6TO8/HANDS-ONTIME:45MINUTES

FROMSTARTTOFINISH:3HOURS,45MINUTES

Forour2009BlueBottlecompanyholidayparty,myfriendNicoleKrasinski,pastrychef–owneroftheincredibleSanFranciscorestaurantStateBirdProvisions,madeusawonderfulcakewithstoutbeerandoats.Itcouldhavebeenthefactthattherewasbeerinthecake,andourstaffcanbealmostasnerdyaboutbeerastheyareaboutcoffee,buttheroomwasmoreatwitteraboutthatdessertthananythingIhadevermadeforthem.Witharoomfullofcoffeeexpertsgivingtheirthumbs-up,Irealizedthatitmightbeanidealpairingwithcoffee.IaskedNicoleifshewouldsharetherecipeandallowmetomodifyitasacoffeecaketoserveatourshops,andshegraciouslyagreed.I’mpartialtoputtingstreuselonjustaboutanything,butIwasstumpedabout

whatadditionalflavorIcouldaddinthestreuseltocomplementthisalreadycomplexcake.IwenttomydrawerofspiceinspirationandfoundabagofbeautifulcarawayseedsthatIhadbeenhopingtouseinadessert.Thiswasit!Thepecansaddatoastyrichnessthatkeepsthecarawayfromevokingtheflavorofapastramisandwich,andthebrownsugarissweetandcomforting.Whenthiscakeisonthemenu,weuselocalstouts—eitherMagnoliaBreweryStoutofCircumstanceinSanFrancisco,orBrooklynBrewery’sBlackChocolateStoutinNewYork.Irecommendadark,richstoutorporterandencourageyoutousealocalbeerifyoucan.Keepinmindthatthestout,oats,andcurrantsneed2hoursofsoakingtime

beforemakingthecake,soyou’llneedtoplanahead.

STREUSEL7tablespoons(3.5oz/100g)coldunsaltedbutter1cup(4.9oz/140g)all-purposeflour¼cup(1.8oz/50g)granulatedsugar¼cup(1.9oz/54g)packedlightbrownsugar2teaspoonscarawayseeds¾teaspoonkoshersalt1¼cups(5oz/142g)pecans,chopped

CAKE

1cup(240ml/240g)stoutbeer1cup(3.5oz/100g)rolledoats¼cup(2oz/57g)currants1½cups(7.4oz/210g)all-purposeflour1teaspoonbakingsoda½cup(4oz/113g)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature1cup(7.1oz/200g)granulatedsugar1cup(7.7oz/217g)packedlightbrownsugar1¼teaspoonskoshersalt2eggs(3.5oz/100g),atroomtemperature

TOMAKETHESTREUSEL,cutthebutterintosmallchunksandletsitatroomtemperatureforabout5minutes.Inthebowlofastandmixerfittedwiththepaddleattachment,combinethe

flour,granulatedsugar,brownsugar,carawayseeds,andsalt.Addthebutterandmixonlowspeeduntilmixtureresemblescoarsebeachsand,about2minutes.Addthepecansandmixjustuntilthestreuselbeginstoclumptogetherandlooklikegravel,beingcarefulnottoletitcometogethertoformadough.Ifnotusingthestreuselrightaway,storeinanairtightcontainerintherefrigeratorforupto3daysorinthefreezerforupto1month.

TOMAKETHECAKE,2hoursbeforeyoubeginmixingthecake,combinethestout,oats,andcurrantsinabowlorliddedcontainerandmixwell.Coverandsetasideatroomtemperaturefor2hours.Drainthemixture,reservingtheliquid.(Youcanalsodothisstepupto1dayahead;soakfor2hours,thendrainandstorethestoutandthesoakedingredientsinseparatecoveredcontainersintherefrigerator.)Preheattheovento350°F(175°C).Butterandflourthebottomandsidesofa

9-inch(23cm)springformpan.Sifttheflourandbakingsodaintoasmallbowl.Inthebowlofastandmixerfittedwiththepaddleattachment,beatthebutter

onlowspeeduntilsmooth,1to2minutes.Addthegranulatedsugar,brownsugar,andsalt,andmixonlowspeeduntilwellcombined.Scrapedownthesidesofthebowl,thenmixonmediumspeeduntillightandfluffy,4to5minutes.Inasmallbowl,whisktheeggsuntilthewhitesandyolksarecompletely

combined.Withthemixeronmediumspeed,addtheeggmixtureveryslowly,ina

steadystream,andmixuntilwell-incorporatedandverysmooth,about30seconds.Scrapedownthesidesofthebowl,thenmixonmediumspeedfor30moreseconds.Scrapedownthesidesofthebowl,then,withthemixeronlowspeed,

Scrapedownthesidesofthebowl,then,withthemixeronlowspeed,alternateaddingtheflourinthreeadditionsandthereservedstoutintwo,beginningandendingwiththeflour.Mixjustuntilcombined.Witharubberspatula,gentlyfoldintheoatsandcurrantsuntilevenlycombined.

TOASSEMBLEANDBAKE,pourthebatterintothepreparedpan,smoothwithanoffsetorrubberspatula,andsprinklethestreuselevenlyoverthetop.Bakefor55to60minutes,untilthestreuselisdryandgoldenandthecakeisfirmandspringsbackwhengentlypressedinthecenter,rotatingthepanmidwaythroughthebakingtime.Letthecakecoolinthepanonawirerackfor30minutes,thenremovefrom

thepan.Servewarmoratroomtemperature.Storedinacoveredcontaineratroomtemperature,thecoffeecakewillkeepforupto3days.

PoachedEggsonToast

PoachedEggsonToast

MAKES2TO4SERVINGS/HANDS-ONTIME:15MINUTESFROMSTARTTOFINISH:15MINUTES

ForBlueBottle’sfirstsixyearsinbusiness,comingtooneofourretaillocationsmeantstandingoutdoorswhiledrinkingyourcoffee,whetheratthefarmers’marketorattheHayesValleykiosk.Whenplanninghisfirstcafé,locatedonadiceystreetbehindSanFrancisco’shistoricMintbuilding,JamesenvisionedacivilizedplacewithJapanesecoffee-makingequipmentandasimplefoodprogrambuiltaroundpoachedeggsontoast.Andthisturnedouttobeawildlysuccessfulidea.Thecafé’stinykitchen,withitstwoinductionburnersandsingleconvectionoven,producesmorepoachedeggsthanwecouldhaveimagined.Inourfirstthreeyearsthere,weestimatethatourcooks,brothersAngélandEnriqueArgüello,madeasmanyassixtythousandpoachedeggsinthisrudimentarykitchen,eachoneperfectlycooked.Intheirmethod,theeggsarepoachedinjust-boiledwaterthat’sbeenremovedfromtheheat,soyoudon’thavetokeepaneyeonthesimmeringwater.Becarefulnottocrowdthewaterwithtoomanyeggs,orthetemperaturewilldropandtheywillbeunderdone.

POACHEDEGGS4eggs2tablespoonswhitevinegarorwinevinegarKoshersalt

Butter,atroomtemperature2to4thickslicesofbread,toasted(seeNote)Freshlygroundblackpepper

Crackeacheggintoitsownsmallbowlorramekin.Put4inches(10cm)ofwaterinalarge,widesaucepanwithatight-fittinglid.

Addthevinegarandapinchofsalt.Bringtoarollingboil,thenturnofftheheat.Immediately,carefullysliptheeggsintothewater,makingsurethere’sabout2inches(5cm)ofspacebetweenthem.(Ifthereisn’tenoughroom,cooktheeggsinbatches,bringingthewaterbacktoaboilbeforeaddingneweggs.)Coverandletsituntilthewhitesarecookedandtheyolksarerunny,3to3½minutes.Gentlylifttheeggsoutofthepanwithawideslottedspoonanddrainwell.Butterthetoastandtopeachslicewith1or2eggs.Seasonwithsaltand

pepperandserveimmediately.

pepperandserveimmediately.

NOTE:At theMint Plaza café, we use Sweet Loaf bread from the Bay Area’sAcme Bread Company. It’s a simple white bread that, when cut thickly andtoasted lightly, has a tender crispness and soft interior. I recommend using afreshloaforbaguettefromyourlocalbakery,butthisrecipeisflexibleandyoucanuseanytypeofbreadyoulike.

CatalanEggswithBraisedGreensandTomatoSauce

MAKES4SERVINGS/HANDS-ONTIME:50MINUTESFROMSTARTTOFINISH:50MINUTES

Inadditiontopoachedeggsontoast,theMintPlazacaféoffersthisseasonalbreakfastdish,alsofeaturingpoachedeggs.Thisisawintertimefavoriteofourson,Dashiell,andwecouldn’tbemoreproud.Thesightofaneight-year-oldgobblingdowndarkleafygreensissurelyeveryparent’sdream.

TOMATOSAUCE3tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil1clovegarlic,minced1(14oz/400g)cantomatopuree,orabout1½cups(355ml)pureedfreshtomatoesKoshersaltFreshlygroundblackpepper

GREENS¼cup(60ml/54g)extra-virginoliveoil2teaspoonsunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature1½pounds(680g)chard,chicory,kale,escarole,oracombination,cutintoribbonsabout1inch(2.5cm)thickKoshersaltFreshlygroundblackpepper

4poachedeggsGratedhardcheese,suchasParmesan,PecorinoRomano,orIdiazábal,forgarnish

TOMAKETHETOMATOSAUCE,heattheoliveoilinamediumnonreactiveskilletovermedium-lowheat.Addthegarlicandsautéuntilaromatic,about30seconds,thenaddthetomatopureeandcook,stirringoccasionally,untilthetomatoestasteandsmellsweetandlessacidic,about20minutesforcannedtomatoesor10minutesforfresh.Seasontotastewithsaltandpepper.

TOMAKETHEGREENS,heattheoilandbutterinalargesaucepanovermedium-highheat.Carefullyaddthegreens,watchingoutforpoppingoil.Ifusingamixtureofgreens,startwiththesturdiergreens,suchaskale,andaddmoretendergreens,suchaschard,aminuteortwolater(escaroletakesevenlesstime).Stirtowiltthegreensevenlyandmakemorespaceformoregreens.Cookuntilthegreensareemeraldgreenandwiltedbutstillcrunchy,5to7minutes.

Seasontotastewithsaltandpepper.

TOASSEMBLE,dividethegreensevenlyamong4plates,makinganestoneachplate.Putapoachedeggontop,seasonlightlywithsaltandpepper,thenspoonthetomatosauceoverthetopofeach.Sprinklethecheeseoverthetopandserveimmediately.

BlueBottleBenedict

MAKES4SERVINGS/HANDS-ONTIME:45MINUTESFROMSTARTTOFINISH:45MINUTES

InthetraditionofmodifyingtheBenedicttofityourlocale(suchaseggsFlorentine,countryBenedict,orevenhuevosBenedict),we’vemadeourownversionofthisclassictoserveattheMintPlazacafé.InplaceoftheEnglishmuffin,weusethickslicesofAcmeBread’sSweetLoaf,andinsteadofhollandaise,thisrecipeutilizesabéchamelsauce.AlthoughIlovethetangyrichnessofahollandaise,arichgravylikebéchamelpairsperfectlywiththemaple-curedhamweusefromPratherRanchMeatCompany.FallingsomewherebetweentheclassiceggsBenedictandacountryBenedict,thisbreakfastisperfectlySanFrancisco.Thesaucecanbemadeafewhoursahead;keepitatroomtemperatureuntilreadytouse,thengentlyreheatit.

BÉCHAMEL5tablespoons(2.5oz/70g)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature1cup(7oz/198g)dicedshallots1tablespoonwhitewine1cup(240ml/242g)wholemilk1cup(240ml/242g)half-and-half1bayleafKoshersaltFreshlygroundpepper1½tablespoonsall-purposeflour

4large,thickslicescountry-stylebread,about1½inches(4cm)thick,toasted4slicescuredham½cup(2oz/57g)gratedGruyèrecheese,forgarnish8poachedeggs

TOMAKETHEBÉCHAMEL,melt3tablespoonsofthebutterinaheavymediumsaucepanovermedium-lowheat.Addtheshallotsandsautéuntilfragrantandtranslucent,3to5minutes.Addthewinetodeglazethepan,thencookthealcoholofffor1to2minutes.Addthemilk,half-and-half,andbayleafandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Cook,stirringfrequently,untilbarelysimmering;don’tletthemilkscaldorboil.Decreasetheheattolowandcook,stirringoccasionally,forabout10minutestoinfusethemilkwiththeflavoroftheshallots.Strainthroughafine-meshsieve,discardingtheshallotsandbayleaf,

andsetaside.Inthesamepan,heattheremaining2tablespoonsofbutterovermedium-low

heatuntilallofthewaterinthebutteriscookedoff,about5minutes.Whiskinflourtoformasmoothpasteandcook,whiskingoften,untilbrowned,3to4minutes.Becarefulnottoburnthemixture.Slowlyaddthemilkmixturewhilewhiskingconstantly;ifyouaddthemilktooquicklyordon’twhiskconstantly,thesaucewon’tthicken.(Ifitdoesn’tthicken,brieflybringtoasimmer,whisking,thenremovefromtheheat.)Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.

TOASSEMBLE,putthetoastonservingplates,andtopeachwithasliceofthehamand2eggs.Pourthebéchameloverthetop,distributingitevenly,thensprinkle2tablespoonsoftheGruyèreovereachserving.Serveimmediately.

PerfectforDunking

Saffron-VanillaSnickerdoodlesGinger-MolassesCookiesDouble-ChocolateCookiesSesame-AbsintheCigars

BiscottiPizzettaMadeleines

ChocolateParisianMacaronsOliveOilandRosemaryShortbread

Fennel-ParmesanShortbread

BiscottiPizzetta

Saffron-VanillaSnickerdoodles

MAKES9LARGECOOKIES/HANDS-ONTIME:30MINUTESFROMSTARTTOFINISH:4HOURS

Thesedefinitelyaren’ttraditionalsnickerdoodles,arelativelyplaincookiemadewithcreamoftartarthatyouwouldexpecttoseerolledincinnamonandsugar.Instead,theyhaveanunusualbutterscotchflavorfromthecombinationofsaffron,brownsugar,andvanillaandaresoftandchewy,withagoldenexterior.IadmitthatIco-optedthenamesnickerdoodleinordertoincreasesales.IoriginallycalledthemVanilla-SaffronCookies,andunderthatnamewecouldhardlygivethethingsaway.Isuspectedthattheideaofsaffroninasweettreatwasturningpeopleaway,soIdecidedtochooseacomfortingandfamiliarnametooffsetthefearofsaffron,andlurepeopleintogivingtheseatry.Sureenough,itworked.TheonlydownsideisthatnowIhavethejoboftryingtoexplainmyselfwheneverasnickerdoodlelovercatchesmylittlewhitelie!

SUBSTITUTIONS:Ratherthanuseavanillabean,youcandoublethevanillaextract.

About30threadsofsaffron(toyield⅛teaspoongroundsaffron;seeNote)½vanillabean2tablespoonsmilk2cups(9.9oz/280g)all-purposeflour1teaspoonbakingsoda½cup(4oz/113g)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature½cup(3.5oz/100g)granulatedsugar½cup(3.8oz/109g)packedlightbrownsugar1teaspoonkoshersalt1egg(1.8oz/50g),atroomtemperature½teaspoonvanillaextract

Crushthesaffronthreadswithamortarandpestleuntilpowderyorgrindtheminacleanspicegrinder;alternatively,youcanfinelymincethesaffron.Thefinerthepowder,themoreintensethesaffroncolorandflavorinthecookies.Splitthevanillabeaninhalfandscrapethepulpintoasmallsaucepan.Add

thevanillapod,milk,andsaffronandcookoververylowheat,justuntilbubblesbegintoformattheedges,between180°Fand190°F(82°Cand88°C).Alternatively,combinethevanillapulp,pod,milk,andsaffroninasmall

Alternatively,combinethevanillapulp,pod,milk,andsaffroninasmallmicrowavablebowl,andmicrowavejustuntilthemilkishot,20to30seconds.Coverandletsteepforabout10minutes;themilkshouldhaveasunnyyellowcolor.Sifttheflourandbakingsodaintoamediumbowl.Inthebowlofastandmixerfittedwiththepaddleattachment,beatthebutter

onlowspeeduntilsmooth,1to2minutes.Addthegranulatedsugar,brownsugar,andsaltandmixonlowspeeduntilwellcombined.Scrapedownthesidesofthebowl,thenmixonmediumspeeduntillightandfluffy,4to5minutes.Removethevanillapodfromthemilk,squeezingoffanyliquidorpulp

clingingtoitbackintothemilk.Inamediumbowl,combinethemilkmixture,egg,andvanillaextractandwhiskvigorouslyuntilwellblended.Withthemixeronmediumspeed,addtheeggmixtureveryslowly,ina

steadystream,andmixuntilwell-incorporatedandverysmooth,about30seconds.Scrapedownthesidesofthebowl,thenmixonmediumspeedfor30moreseconds.Scrapedownthesidesofthebowl,thenaddtheflourmixture.Mixonlow

speedjustuntiluniformintexture.Usingarubberspatula,scrapethedoughoutintoanairtightcontaineroronto

apieceofplasticwrap.Coverthecontainer,or,ifusingplasticwrap,shapethedoughintoaroughdisk,wraptightly,andrefrigerateforatleast3hoursandupto5days.Preheattheovento350°F(175°C).Lineabakingsheetwithparchmentpaper

orasiliconemat.Roll¼-cup(60ml)portionsofthedoughintoballs,andplacethemonthe

bakingsheet,spacingthematleast2inches(5cm)apart.(Tomakedifferentsizesofcookies,seethesidebaronCookieSizes.)Bakeforabout16minutes,untilgoldenbutnottoodark,rotatingthepan

midwaythroughthebakingtime.Ideally,thebakedcookieswillbetallandslightlyundercookedinthecenter,andwillbuckleshortlyaftercomingoutoftheoven.(I’vefoundthatelectricovensproducethebestbuckle.)Ifthecookiesdon’tbuckle,don’tworry;they’llstillbedelicious.Letthecookiescoolonthepanfor10minutesbeforeremoving.Thesecookiesarebestwheneatenwarm,shortlyaftertheycomeoutofthe

oven.However,theycanbestoredinanairtightcontaineratroomtemperatureforupto2days.Alternatively,thedoughcanstoredinanairtightcontainerintherefrigeratorforupto5days,soconsiderbakingonlyasmanycookiesasneededandsavingtherestofthedoughtobakeanotherday.

NOTE:Saffronismostcommonlyusedinsavorycuisine.Toavoidhavingvisions

ofpaellahauntingyouasyoueatthesecookies,besuretomeasurethesaffroncarefully—there’s a fine line between just perfect and too much. When theamountofsaffroniscorrect,thebiscottishouldbesubtlyyellowincolorwithaslightcleanhoneytastethatdoesn’tnecessarilycomeacrossassaffron.

Ginger-MolassesCookies

MAKES9LARGECOOKIES/HANDS-ONTIME:30MINUTESFROMSTARTTOFINISH:4HOURS

Mydad,mymentorinhowtobestenjoyallthingssweet,haslongbeenknownforhavingcookiessquirreledawayinhisbedroomforemergencywitching-hourcravings.Ofallofthecookiesinhiscollection,NabiscoGingerSnapsweretheonesIconsideredthemostgrown-up,and,ofcourse,theonesIwantedtolikemostasafive-year-old.Irememberthemasincrediblyspicyandgreatfordunkinginmilkand,accurateornot,thatthirty-year-oldtastememoryislodgedinmybrain.AsmuchasIlovegingersnaps,Iwantedtocreateachewygingercookiefor

ourshops.Toachievetheidealchewy-without-being-cakeytexture,Iloadedupthesecookieswithmolassesandleftouttheeggs.BoredoftraditionalChristmasspices,Idecidedtouseblackcardamom,asmokedrelativeofthemorecommongreencardamom,foranearthyflavorevocativeofacampfire.Toroundoutandsoftenthehintofcamphorfromtheblackcardamom,I’veaddedcocoapowderforrichness,butjustasmallquantitysoitdoesn’tcreatetheimpressionofchocolate.Thesecookiesareparticularlyspicy,withtwotypesofgingerandgooddoseofblackpepper.Complexandsophisticatedwithadefinitekick,theymakemefeeljustlikemysneakyfive-year-oldself,breakingintomydad’ssecretstashofgingercookies.

SUBSTITUTIONS:Thisisdefinitelyaspicycookie,buttheflavorscanbeadjustedandtoneddownifyou’dlikesomethingwithabitlessheat.Decreasetheamountoffreshgingerandblackpepperbyhalfforalessspicybutstilldeliciouscookie.Ihighlyrecommendyoutrackdownblackcardamom,butifyoudon’thaveitonhandandwanttomakethesecookiesanyway,substitute½teaspoongroundclovesand¼teaspoongroundgreencardamom.Ifyou’reabigfanofginger,youcangoforanevenbiggergingerpunchbyadding¼cupofchoppedcandiedgingerwiththeflour.Notethatoneingredientthatshouldn’tbealteredisthemolasses—onlyuselightmolasses,alsoknownasBarbadosmolasses.Ithasthemildestflavorofanytypeofmolasses.Ifyousubstituteanothertype,itwilloverwhelmtheotherflavorsinthiscookie.

2cups(9.9oz/280g)all-purposeflour1tablespoonnatural(notDutch-processed)cocoapowder1tablespoongrounddriedginger¾teaspoonbakingsoda¾teaspoongroundblackcardamom½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper½cup(4oz/113g)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature3tablespoons(1.6oz/45g)gratedfreshginger½cup(3.8oz/109g)packedlightbrownsugar¼cup(1.8oz/50g)granulatedsugar,plusextraforrollingthecookies½teaspoonkoshersalt½cup(5.7oz/161g)unsulfuredlightmolasses

Sifttheflour,cocoapowder,powderedginger,bakingsoda,cardamom,andpepperintoabowl.Inthebowlofastandmixerfittedwiththepaddleattachment,beatthebutter

andgratedgingeronlowspeeduntilsmooth,1to2minutes.Addthebrownsugar,granulatedsugar,andsaltandmixonlowspeeduntilwellcombined.Scrapedownthesidesofthebowl,thenmixonmediumspeeduntillightandfluffy,4to5minutes.Addthemolassesandmixuntilwellcombined.Scrapedownthesidesofthe

bowl,thenaddtheflourmixture.Mixonlowspeedjustuntiluniformintexture.Usingarubberspatula,scrapethedoughoutintoanairtightcontaineroronto

apieceofplasticwrap.Coverthecontainer,or,ifusingplasticwrap,shapethedoughintoaroughdisk,wraptightly,andrefrigerateforatleast3hoursandupto5days.Preheattheovento350°F(175°C).Lineabakingsheetwithparchmentpaper

orasiliconemat.Fillasmallplatewithgranulatedsugar.Roll¼-cup(60ml)portionsofthedoughintoballs,thenrolltheballsinthe

sugar.Placethemonthebakingsheet,spacingthematleast2inches(5cm)apart.(Tomakedifferentsizes,seebelow.)Bakefor11to13minutes,untilcracklyontopbutstillbesomewhatsoftto

thetouch,rotatingthepanmidwaythroughthebakingtime.Letthemcoolonthepanfor10minutes,thenremove.Thesurfacewillget

firmerastheycool.Thesecookiesarebestwheneatenthedaytheyarebaked.However,theycan

bestoredinanairtightcontaineratroomtemperaturefor2days.Alternatively,thedoughcanbestoredinanairtightcontainerintherefrigeratorfor5days,soconsiderbakingonlyasmanycookiesasneededandsavingtherestofthedoughtobakeanotherday.

COOKIESIZES

WemakeourcookiesonthelargesideatBlueBottle.OurscoopedcookiesareslightlybiggerthanI’vespecifiedintheserecipes,about60grams(2.1oz)apiece.Ididthatfortworeasons.First,whenIwasaone-personpastrydepartment,Icouldn’tbearscoopingmorecookiesthanIneededto.But,second,andmoresignificantly,withlargercookiesyoucanreallyplaywithbakingtimetoachievetwodistincttexturesinasinglecookie:crispontheoutsideandsoftandgooeyontheinside.Smallercookiestendtobewell-doneandcrispthroughout.Youcanchoosetomakesmallercookies;justbecarefulaboutbakingtime.It’susuallybesttotestbakeoneortwocookiestodialinthetimingbeforeyoubaketheentirebatch.

SPICESANDALCOHOL

Allpastrychefshaveabagoftrickstheygotowhendevelopinganewrecipe.Somelooktoarchitectureandmakesky-highpastries,otherstakeinspirationfromthefarmers’markettomakefreshandseasonaltreats,andstillothersraidthesavorycupboardstoteeterontheedgeofwhatcanbecalleddessert.BecausemyonlygoalatBlueBottleistomaketreatswithflavorsthatpairwellwithcoffee,mybagoftrickshasbecomemyspicerackandalcoholcabinet—or,tobemorespecific,LeSanctuaireforspicesandSt.GeorgeSpiritsforalcohol.LeSanctuaire,locatedinSanFrancisco,is

achef’shaven,offeringspicesofthefinestgradeandspecializingintherareorunusual.LeSanctuairespicesandothergoods,previouslyavailableonlyinbulktoindustryprofessionals,arenowsoldtothepublicinretail-sizetinsviatheirwebsite.St.GeorgeSpiritsisadistilleryinAlameda,justacrossthemarinafromBlueBottle’sOaklandroastery.Itwasfoundedasaneau-de-viedistilleryandisbestknownforHangarOnevodkabutalsomakesincrediblewhiskeys,brandies,andgins,allproducedinsmallbatcheswiththefinestingredients.I’vebeenluckytobeallowedintobothoftheseestablishmentstosniff,taste,talktheearsoffthestaffandproprietors,andbringhomesamplesofenticingingredients.Thegreatthingaboutbothspicesand

alcoholisthatyoudon’thavetomakemajoradjustmentstoarecipetoentirelychangethedirectionoftheflavor.Boredwithtraditional

directionoftheflavor.Boredwithtraditionalgingerbreadspices?Goaheadanduseblackcardamom.Tiredofusingvanillaextract?Grabthatbottleofmoonshine.Therecipesinthisbookarenowyours,and

Iencourageyoutochangethemasyouplease.Irecommendtryingthemaswrittenfirst,becausetheyaretheresultofmuchexperimentationandhaveprovenpopularamongcustomers.Then,onceyou’veexperiencedtheoriginalversion,adjustatwillaccordingtoyourtaste.Icantrytocomeupwithanobjectivelydeliciouspastry,butchancesare,you’llwishsomethingaboutitwasabitdifferent.It’spossiblethathalfavanillabeaninacookierecipedoesn’thavethefullvanillaflavoryou’relookingfor,ormaybeyoureallywishIhadputcinnamoninthefruitbuckle.Aslongasyou’reworkingwiththesamebasicproportions,changingupspicesandextractsisaneasywaytopersonalizearecipetoyourtaste.SomeofthespicesIuseareabit

uncommon,andyouwon’tfindthematyoursupermarket,andperhapsnotevenatyournaturalfoodstore.InsomecasesI’vesuggestedasubstitution,butIencourageyoutolookonlineorexploreyourlocalethnicfoodshopstofindthese,andothers,thatyoucanaddtoyourownbagoftricks.

Double-ChocolateCookies

MAKES9LARGECOOKIES/HANDS-ONTIME:30MINUTESFROMSTARTTOFINISH:4HOURS

Okay,I’lladmitthatI’mnotahugefanofchocolate.Infact,whenIwasdevelopingthefirstroundofpastriesforBlueBottle,itdidn’toccurtomeuntiljustbeforewedebutedthetreatsthatIhadcompletelyoverlookedincludingchocolateinanything.ItwasasafreshmanatUCSantaCruzatagrimycampuscafethatIdiscoveredtheonechocolatebakedgoodIwasexcitedabout:stalebrownies—sweet,buttery,and,mostimportantly,chewy.Anunlikelyofasourceofinspiration,thosestalebrowniesgavemetheideaforourmostpopularcookieatBlueBottle.Themostimportantthingwhenmakingthiscookieistouseahigh-quality

chocolate.AtBayAreaBlueBottlecafés,weuselargechipsmadeforusbyMichaelRecchiuti,aSanFranciscochocolatierwhocreateslegendarilybeautifulchocolatesandcandies;inBrooklyn,weuseextraordinarychocolatemadebytheMastBrothers.Iencourageyoutofindareallydeliciousdarkchocolatebarandchopitintochunks;theslightlybitterchocolatewilloffsettheamountofsugarittakestogetthesecookiestothatperfectstalebrownietextureIwasafter.Ahealthydoseoflarge-grainedseasaltisreallywhatputsthiscookieoverthetop.Theoccasionalcrunchofasaltcrystalwithinthedeep,darkchocolateisstunning—andwhatkeepsmecravingthiscookie.Indeed,thesecookiesmademerealizethatImightlikechocolatealittlemorethanI’vebeenadmittingto.

1cup(4.9oz/140g)all-purposeflour⅓cup(1.1oz/31g)natural(notDutch-processed)cocoapowder½teaspoonbakingsoda5tablespoons(2.5oz/70g)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature1cup(7.1oz/200g)sugar1teaspoonMaldonseasalt1egg(1.8oz/50g),atroomtemperature1tablespoonvanillaextract3.5ounces(100g)darkchocolate,62%to70%cacao,coarselychopped

Sifttheflour,cocoapowder,andbakingsodaintoamediumbowl.Inthebowlofastandmixerfittedwiththepaddleattachment,beatthebutter

onlowspeeduntilsmooth,1to2minutes.Addthesugarandsaltandmixon

onlowspeeduntilsmooth,1to2minutes.Addthesugarandsaltandmixonlowspeeduntilwellcombined.Scrapedownthesidesofthebowl,thenmixonmediumspeeduntilthemixturegetslighterincolorandthetexturebecomesfluffier,5to6minutes.Becauseofthehighratioofsugartobutter,thismixturewon’tbeasfluffyassimilarmixturesforothercookierecipesinthisbook.Inamediumbowl,combinetheeggandvanillaextractandwhiskvigorously

untilwellblended.Withthemixeronmediumspeed,addtheeggmixtureveryslowly,ina

steadystream,andmixuntilwell-incorporatedandverysmooth,about30seconds.Scrapedownthesidesofthebowl,thenmixonmediumspeedfor30moreseconds.Scrapedownthesidesofthebowl,thenaddtheflourmixture.Mixonlow

speedjustuntiluniformintexture.Scrapedownthesidesofthebowl,thenaddthechocolate.Mixonlowspeeduntilthecolorisauniformbrownandnostreaksofwhiteremain.Usingarubberspatula,scrapethedoughoutintoanairtightcontaineroronto

apieceofplasticwrap.Coverthecontainer,or,ifusingplasticwrap,shapethedoughintoaroughdisk,wraptightly,andrefrigerateforatleast3hoursandupto5days.Preheattheovento350°F(175°C).Lineabakingsheetwithparchmentpaper

orasiliconemat.Roll¼-cup(60ml)portionsofthedoughintoballsandplacethemonthe

bakingsheet,spacingthematleast2inches(5cm)apart.(Tomakedifferentsizesofcookies,seethesidebaronCookieSizes.)Bakefor11to12minutes,untilthecookiesareslightlyfirmtothetouchand

thesurfaceisnolongerglossy,rotatingthepanmidwaythroughthebakingtime.Letthecookiescoolonthepanfor10minutesbeforeremoving.Thesecookiesarebestwheneatenwarm,shortlyaftertheycomeoutofthe

oven.However,theycanbestoredinanairtightcontaineratroomtemperatureforupto3days.Alternatively,thedoughcanbestoredinanairtightcontainerintherefrigeratorforupto5days,soconsiderbakingonlyasmanycookiesasneededandsavingtherestofthedoughtobakeanotherday.

SALT

Ilovefindingthatsweetspotinadessertwherethere’sjustenoughsalttotaste,butnotsomuchthatit’soverwhelming.Iespeciallylovegettingaquickhitofsalt,asurpriseyouwouldn’tnormallyexpectinasweettreat.Ofcourse,therearemanycaseswhereyoujustneedthesalttoplayasupportingrole,enhancingtheflavorbutstayingsilentandunassumingonthesidelines.WeusetwotypesofsaltintheBlueBottle

kitchens:koshersalt,whichhaslargergrainsthantablesaltandamellowandnottoosaltyflavor,andMaldonbrandseasalt,beautifulcrystallineflakesharvestedinEssex,Englandsince1882.Koshersaltis,indeed,kosher,butthesameistrueofallsalt;thenamecomesfromitsuseinthemeatkosheringprocess.Thelargegrainsizeiscrucialbecause,ratherthandissolvingintothemeat,itstaysonthesurfacetodoitsjobandthencanbewashedofftoeliminatesaltiness.Theselargeandhard-to-dissolvegrainsareexactlywhyIlovekoshersalt.Iliketobeabletoplaywiththeamountofsaltinessperbite,notnecessarilybombbakedgoodswithanoverallsaltyflavor.Whereaskoshersaltdoesthisonasmallerscale,Maldondoesitonalargerscale,yetthelargecrystalshaveasurprisinglymildsaltflavorbecauseoftheirthinanddelicateshape.Intheserecipes,mydistinctionisbasedon

grainsize—Maldonisalargeandflakycrystal,koshersalthasamediumgrainsize.Becausetherearemanysaltstochoosefromandsometimesyoumaynothaveexactlythe

andsometimesyoumaynothaveexactlytheformarecipecallsfor,here’saquickandeasyconversion:1teaspoonofalarge-flakeseasalt=½teaspoonkosher,ormedium-grain,salt=¼teaspoonfine-grainedrefinedtablesalt.

Sesame-AbsintheCigars

Sesame-AbsintheCigars

MAKES24COOKIES/HANDS-ONTIME:40MINUTESFROMSTARTTOFINISH:1HOUR

Thesecookies,whicharemoreofabiscotti-styletreatthatareidealfordunkingincoffee,areeasytooverlookwhenfacedwiththesweetandchocolatyoptionsinBlueBottle’spastrycases.Don’tlettheirsubtletyfoolyou;theyareoneofthemostpopularitemsamongourstaff,andmyveryfavoritecookietomake.Thisversionisbasedonabelovedfamilyrecipegiventomebymyfriend

GinaRoccanova.Shewasskeptical(atbest)whenIsaidthatIwantedtomodifyherSiciliangrandmother’soriginalrecipe.Wheretheoriginalrecipecalledforaniseextract,IhadvisionsofusingabsinthebySt.GeorgeSpirits.Absinthe,adistillateofmanyherbs,butprimarilywormwood,anise,andfennel,wasmadelegalintheUnitedStatesin2007aftera92-yearban.Demonizedasadangerouspsychoactivedrug,absintheaddictionissaidtohavebeenthecauseforsomeofhistory’smostscandalousepisodes,fromOscarWilde’stryststoVanGogh’smissingear.PossiblynotaSiciliangrandmother’sfirstchoiceforhercookies.Iwasdelightedwiththeresults.Theabsintheimpartedanamazinglycomplex

subtlesweetnesswithbothearthyandherbaltones,andswappingoutextravirginoliveoilforgrandma’svegetableoilcontributedaslightgrassinessthatpairedwellwiththetoastedsesameseeds.Thequestionwas,wouldGinaagree?Absolutely!Shemighthaveevenwhisperedtomethatsheprefersthisversion—butgrandmamustneverknow.

SUBSTITUTIONS:YoucansubstituteChartreuse,Sambuca,oranyanise-flavoredliqueurfortheabsinthe.Toomittheliqueuraltogether,usewaterforbrushing;add1teaspoonaniseseeds,crushedinamortar,totheflourmixture;andadd1tablespoonofwholeaniseseedstothesesameseedsforrolling.

1¾cups(8.6oz/245g)all-purposeflour,plusmoreforkneading½cup(3.5oz/100g)sugar1¼teaspoonskoshersalt¾teaspoonbakingpowder⅓cup(80ml/71g)extra-virginoliveoil2eggs(3.5oz/100g),atroomtemperature1tablespoonplus¼cupabsinthe1cup(5oz/142g)sesameseeds

Preheattheovento350°F(175°C).Lineabakingsheetwithparchmentpaper.Sifttheflour,sugar,salt,andbakingpowderintoamediumbowl.Drizzletheoliveoiloverthetopoftheflourmixture,thenpinchandrubthe

mixturebetweenyourhandsuntilithasthetextureoffluffycornmeal;thisshouldtakeabout5minutes.

Makeawellinthecenterofthemixture.Cracktheeggsintothewell.Addthe1tablespoonofabsintheand,withafork,immediatelybeginwhiskingtheeggsvigorouslytoincorporatetheabsinthebeforeitcurdlestheeggs.Beginmixingtheflourmixtureintotheeggs,workingitingraduallyuntilfullyincorporated.

Generouslyflouraworksurface,thenturnthedoughoutontheflouredarea.Kneaduntilthecolorlightenssignificantly,theoilisfullyincorporated,andthedoughissmooth,about3minutes,addingflouronlyasneededtopreventsticking.Ifthedoughlooksgreasyorpockmarked,keepkneading.

Putthe¼cupofabsintheinasmallbowl.Putthesesameseedsinaseparatesmall,shallowbowl.Dividethedoughinto4equalpieces.Stillworkingonaflouredsurface,roll

eachpieceintoalongsnakelikerope,about18inches(46cm)long.Cutinto6equalpieces,eachabout3inches(8cm)long.Dipeachpieceintheabsinthe,thengentlyrollinthesesameseedsuntilevenlycovered.

Placethecookiesonthepreparedbakingsheet,spacingthematleast½inch(1.3cm)apart.Bakeforabout12minutes,untilthesesameseedsareaverylightgolden

brownbutthecookiesarestillpale,rotatingthepanmidwaythroughthebakingtime.Letthecookiescoolonthepanfor10minutesbeforeremoving.Serveeitherwarmoratroomtemperature.Cooledcompletelyandstoredinan

airtightcontaineratroomtemperature,thecookieswillkeepforupto2days.

BiscottiPizzetta

BiscottiPizzetta

MAKESABOUT3DOZENBISCOTTI/HANDS-ONTIME:45MINUTESFROMSTARTTOFINISH:2HOURS,30MINUTES

Pizzetta211isacharminglittletwenty-four-seatpizzarestaurantinSanFrancisco’sOuterRichmonddistrict.Withoutadoubt,itisoursonDashiell’sveryfavoriteplacetoeat—theircracker-thinpizzasandlittleramekinsofolivesaresomeofhisveryfirsttastememories.ItwasalsooneoftheearliestBlueBottlewholesaleaccounts,andfromthestart,Jameshashadaloveaffairwiththerestaurant’ssaffronbiscotti.Eatenafterpizza,accompaniedbyalittleglassofvinsanto,it’saperfectlycivilizedwaytoendameal.AfterwespentyearstryingtoconvincePizzettatomakebiscottiforBlue

Bottle,theyfinallyrelentedand,foratime,madeasmallbatchfortheHayesValleykioskeveryweek.Sadlyforus,thoughhappilyforthem,thedemandforbiscottiintheirownrestaurantbecamesogreatthattheywerenolongerabletokeepmakingaweeklybatchforus.ProprietorJackMurphygraciouslyinvitedmeintohiskitchensohecouldteachmetheartofthesedelicatelyflavoredandtenderbiscotti.Itwasafunnyscene:thelaid-backpizzaiolos,justbackfromsurfinginthePacific,saying,“Oh,apinchofthis,adashofthat,andyou’lljustknowwhenit’sdone,”andmefuriouslyscribblingnotesandmeasuringeverythingwithmytenthofagramscale.Mypreciselycalculatedrecipeisprettyclosetotheirintuitiveandfreestylebiscotti,anddelightfully,thistreatisnowavailableatallofourlocations.

About30threadssaffron(toyield⅛teaspoongroundsaffron;seeNote)1egg(1.8oz/50g),atroomtemperature½cup(3.5oz/100g)sugar¼cup(1.4oz/40g)almonds1cup(4.9oz/140g)all-purposeflour½teaspoonkoshersalt¼teaspoonbakingsoda1eggwhite(1.1oz/31g)

Preheattheovento350°F(175°C).Lineabakingsheetwithparchmentpaper.Crushthesaffronthreadswithamortarandpestleuntilpowderyorgrind

theminacleanspicegrinder;alternatively,youcanfinelymincethesaffron.Thefinerthepowder,themoreintensethesaffroncolorandflavorinthebiscotti.

biscotti.Inasmallbowl,combinetheegg,saffron,andsugarandwhiskuntilsmooth.

Letsitfor10minutes.Chopthealmondsbyhandorpulseinafoodprocessoruntilabouthalfare

finelygroundandhalfareroughlychopped.Sifttheflour,salt,andbakingsodaintothebowlofastandmixer.Usingthe

breadhook,mixonlowspeeduntilwellincorporated.Addtheeggmixtureandmixonlowspeeduntiltheflourismoistened.Increasetomediumspeedandmixuntilwellcombined,about5minutes,frequentlyscrapingdownthesidesofthebowl.Graduallyaddthealmondsandmixuntilincorporated.Generouslyflouraworksurface,thenturndoughoutontotheflouredarea.

Kneaduntilthedoughnolongerstickstoyourpalms,addingflouronlyasneededtopreventexcessivesticking,about2minutes.Dividethedoughinto2equalpieces.Stillworkingonaflouredsurface,roll

eachpieceintoasnakelikeropeabout15inches(38cm)long.Transfertothepreparedpan,pressingdownlightlytoflattenslightly.Inasmallbowl,whisktheeggwhiteuntilfrothy.Lightlybrushtheeggwhite

overthedough,evenlycoveringthetopandallsides.Bakefor18to20minutes,untilfirmtothetouchandtheeggwashhas

brownedslightly.Removefromtheovenandletcoolfor10to15minutes.Lowertheovento

225°F(107°C)andleavedoorajarbrieflyifnecessarytobringthetemperaturedown.Transferonebiscottilogtoacuttingboard.Usingasharpserratedknife,

carefullyslicediagonallyintopiecesabout¼inch(6mm)thickandabout4inches(10cm)long.Placetheslices,cutsideup,onabakingsheet;theycanbepackedintight,withtheedgestouching.Repeatwiththesecondlog.

Bakeforabout1hourand15minutes,untilcompletelydriedoutbutwithoutanydarkeningofcolor.

anydarkeningofcolor.Letcoolcompletelyonthepanbeforeserving.Serveatroomtemperature.Storedinanairtightcontaineratroomtemperature,thebiscottiwillkeepfor

upto2weeks.

Madeleines

Madeleines

MAKES16TO18LARGEMADELEINES/HANDS-ONTIME:45MINUTES

FROMSTARTTOFINISH:5HOURS

EveryyearJamesasksmetomakemadeleinesonJuly10,forthebirthdayofMarcelProust,oneofthemostinfluentialfiguresinhislife—andeveryyearIforgetandlethimdown.LetthisbemyatonementtothememoryofProust!Alovelettertomyhusband!Andyetanothermadeleinerecipeforevertiedtothose486wordsinInSearchofLostTime:Volume1—Swann’sWay.Thetwokeystogettingamadeleine’ssignatureshape,withtheflarededges

andpronouncedbumpontop,areaverycoldpanandwell-restedbatter.Madeleinescanbetrickytogetright,soIadvisebakingoneortwoatatimeuntilyougetahandleonhowyourovenandmadeleinepanbestworktogether.Thesecanalsobebakedinminimadeleinepans.Useabout½teaspoonofbatterpermadeleineandbakeforabout8minutes.Again,testoneortwoinyouroventogaugethebatterquantityandtimebeforecommittingthewholebatchtotheoven.

SUBSTITUTIONS:Youcansubstituteanycitruszestforthelime.Ichooselimetorecreate,asfaithfullyaspossible,thetastememorymadefamousinSwann’sWay,whenthenarratorreceivesamadeleinedippedinhisaunt’slime-blossomtea.

6tablespoons(3oz/85g)unsaltedbutterFinelygratedzestof1lime¾cup(3.7oz/105g)all-purposeflour1teaspoonbakingpowder¼teaspoonkoshersalt2eggs(3.5oz/100g)½cup(3.5oz/100g)sugar2tablespoonshoney

Meltthebutter,thenpouritintoamediumbowl.Stirinthelimezestandletcool.Sifttheflour,bakingpowder,andsaltintoamediumbowl.Inthetopofadoubleboileroramediummetalbowlsetoverasaucepanof

simmeringwater,combinetheeggs,sugar,andhoney.(Makesurethebottomof

simmeringwater,combinetheeggs,sugar,andhoney.(Makesurethebottomofthebowldoesn’ttouchthewaterinthesaucepan.)Whiskvigorouslyuntilwellblended,thencook,stirringconstantly,untilthesugarhasdissolvedandthemixtureisslightlywarm,about130°F(54°C).Transfertothebowlofastandmixerfittedwiththewhiskattachment.Whiptheeggmixtureonhighspeeduntiltripledinvolume,about10minutes.Removethebowlfromthestandmixerandsiftinone-thirdoftheflour

mixture.Usearubberspatulatogentlyfoldintheflour.Repeattwicemoretoincorporatealloftheflour.Add¼cupofthemixturetothecooledbutterandwhiskuntilthoroughly

combinedandtherearenolongerstreaksofbutter.Gentlyfoldthebuttermixtureintotheegg-flourmixtureuntilthebatterhasahomogenouscolorandtexture.Pressplasticwrapontothesurfaceofthebatterandrefrigerateforatleast4

hoursandupto3days;theidealisabout12hours.Butterandflour2madeleinepans(orenoughtomake16to18madeleines),

thenrefrigerate.Preheattheovento400°F(205°C).Portionthebatter,usingabout1tablespoonforeachmadeleinemold,forming

eachportionintoaballandplacingitinthecenterofthemold.Refrigeratewhiletheovenheats.

Bakeforabout9minutesinanonstickmadeleinepanor12minutesinanaluminumpan,untilthemadeleinesaregoldenbrownandresistslightlywhenlightlypressedinthecenterofthebump,rotatingthepanmidwaythroughthebakingtime.Letthemadeleinescoolinthepanfor5minutes,thenturnthemoutontoa

plate.Madeleinesarebestwheneatenwarm,shortlyaftertheycomeoutofthe

oven.However,theycanbewrappedtightlyandstoredatroomtemperaturefor

oven.However,theycanbewrappedtightlyandstoredatroomtemperatureforupto1day.Alternatively,thebattercanbestoredinanairtightcontainerintherefrigerator(withplasticwrappressedagainstthesurface)forupto3days,soconsiderbakingonlyasmanyasneededandsavingtherestofthebattertobakeanotherday.

ChocolateParisianMacarons

ChocolateParisianMacarons

MAKESABOUT28MACARONS/HANDS-ONTIME:1HOURFROMSTARTTOFINISH:2HOURS,20MINUTES

AroundthetimeJamesandIbecameneighborsattheSaturdayDowntownBerkeleyFarmers’Market,mesellingcakes,himsellingcoffee,IwasheadlongintomyobsessionwithdevelopingaParisianmacaron,inspiredbymyfirsttriptoParis.Iwasdeterminedtocreateabeautifulmacaronwithorganicingredients,freefromthefoodcoloringthatmakesthemsofamouslycolorful,andwithatexturemoresuggestiveofthealmondsfromwhichtheyaremade.Insteadofusingprocessedalmondflour,IusedwholealmondsfromJohnLagier,alocalalmondandgrapefarmerwhohadamarketstallnexttous.EveryweekI’dtryanotherbatchofmacarons,someutterfailures,someshowingaglimmerofprogress,andI’dbringmyresultstothefarmers’marketforJamestotry.Thiswentonformonthsuntil,giddywiththerevelationofathirty-minuteresttimefortheperfectshape,IfinallyhadwhatIthoughtwasasuccessfulbatchtobringtohim.Irememberhisreactionasclearascanbe:heclosedhiseyes,letoutalittlesigh,and,renderedunabletospeak,rolleduphissleevetoshowmegoosebumpsonhisarm.Ihaditright.TheParisianmacaronisoneofthemostdifficultconfectionstoconquer.It

tookmetwoyearstodevelopandmastermyfirstrecipe,aprocessthatleftmeunabletoenjoyeatingmacaronsforthenextfiveyears.Tothisday,witheachbiteofaperfectmacaron,IhaveaProustianmemoryofeachandeveryfailedbatch.I’vemadethisamorefail-saferecipethanmyoriginal,usinganItalianmeringueratherthansimplywhippedeggwhites;thisallowsalittlemoreleewaywhenfoldingandincreasesthechanceofsuccess—which,hopefully,willresultinyourbelovedbeingovercomewithgoosebumpsaswell.

SUBSTITUTIONS:Almondflourcanbesubstitutedforanequalweightofwholealmonds,butyouwillstillneedtoprocesstheflourwiththepowderedsugarandcocoapowderfor3to4minutesinthefoodprocessor,soyouwon’tbesavingmuchtime.Plus,almondflourisexpensive,soyouwon’tsavemuchmoneyeither.Regardingfillings,chocolateganacheisclassic,butyoucanuseanyfillingyoulike.Strawberrybuttercream,cherryjam,andsaltedcaramelareallincrediblefillings,andeachwilladdadifferent—andilluminating—tasteand

textureelement.

GANACHE4ounces(113g)darkchocolate,62%to70%cacao,finelychopped½cup(120ml/116g)heavycream

MACARONS1⅓cups(5.4oz/153g)powderedsugar1cup(5.6oz/160g)almonds½cup(1.4oz/40g)natural(notDutch-processed)cocoapowder3eggwhites(3.2oz/91g),atroomtemperature¾cup(5.3oz/150g)granulatedsugar¼cup(60ml/60g)water

TOMAKETHEGANACHE,putthechocolateinamediumheatproofbowl.Inasmallsaucepanovermedium-lowheatorinamicrowave,heatthecreamjustuntilbubblesbegintoformattheedges,between180°Fand190°F(82°Cand88°C).Pourthehotcreamoverthechocolateand,usingrubberspatula,mixuntilthechocolateismostlymelted.Blenduntilsmoothusinganimmersionblenderorfoodprocessor,ortransfer

toadoubleboilerorametalbowlsetoverasaucepanofsimmeringwaterandwhiskuntilsmooth.Theganacheshouldbeshiny.Setasideatroomtemperatureuntiltheganachehascooledtothespreadabletextureofslightlywarmbutter,about2hours.

TOMAKETHEMACARONS,putthepowderedsugar,almonds,andcocoainafoodprocessorandprocessuntilpowdery,about5minutes,stoppingoccasionallytoscrapethesidesandbottomwitharubberspatula.Themixturewillstarttolookpowderyfairlyquickly,butgiveitthefull5minutessothealmondswillbebrokendowntoacombinationoffinedustandsmallparticles.Pourthemixtureintoalargebowlandbreakupanylargechunkswithyour

fingers.Thesugarandeggwhitesneedtobepreparedatroughlythesametime,sothe

nexttwostepswillrequiresomecoordination.Put2eggwhites(2.2oz/62g)inthebowlofastandmixerfittedwiththewhiskattachment(boththebowlandthewhiskshouldbeveryclean)andwhiskonmediumspeedfor1to2minutes.Increasethemixerspeedtohighandcontinuewhiskinguntilfirmpeaksform,3to4minutes.Iffirmpeaksformbeforethesugarisready,decreasethemixerspeedtolowandcontinuewhisking.Meanwhile,combinethesugarandwaterinaverysmallsaucepan;amilk

steamingpitcherworkswellforthistaskbecauseitssmalldiametergivesthemixturesufficientdepthtogetagoodtemperaturereading,andbecauseitmakesiteasytopourthesugarsyrupintotheeggwhites.Cookovermedium-lowheat,

iteasytopourthesugarsyrupintotheeggwhites.Cookovermedium-lowheat,swirlingoccasionally,untilthesugarmelts,thencookwithoutstirringuntilthesyrupreaches238°F(114°C),about5minutes.Ifusingasmallsaucepanratherthanasteamingpitcher,transferthesyruptoa

glassmeasuringcup.Withthemixeronmedium-highspeed,slowlyaddthesugarsyruptotheeggsinathinsteadystream.Aimtopourthesyrupintothesmallgapbetweenthemixerbowlandthewhisk;thesplatterofhotsugarsyrupontotherotatingwhiskwillresultinstringyparticlesinyourmacaronbatter.Increasethemixerspeedtohighandwhipuntilstiff,shinypeaksformandthe

mixtureholdsitsshapeattheendofthewhisk,4to5minutes.Pourtheremainingeggwhite(1.1oz/31g)overthealmondmixture,then

topwiththewhippedeggwhitemixture.Witharubberspatula,foldthewhippedmixtureintothealmondmixtureuntilnodryspotsremain.Continuefoldingcarefullybutthoroughlyforabout35folds,untilthemixtureisverydarkandshinyandnodrylumpsremain.Thisisthemostcriticalstepbecauseit’salltooeasytoundermixorovermixthebatter.I’vefoundthattakingthetimetocountthenumberoffolds,andwatchingcarefullyfortheachangeincolorandtextureisthebestwaytoachieveperfectmacaronresults.FitapastrybagwithanAteco804tiporasimilarplain½-inch(1.3cm)tip.

Fillthepastrybagabouthalfwaywiththebatter.(Ifthere’stoomuchbatterinthebag,youmightstrugglemorewiththebagthanwiththepiping.)Line2heavybakingsheetswithparchmentpaper.Positionthepipingtipabout¼inch(6mm)abovethebakingsheetand,

holdingitstill,pipebatteruntilitformsacircle1inch(2.5cm)indiameterandabout¼inch(6mm)thick.Releasepressureonthebagandmakeaquick,slightcircularmotion,almostwipingthepastrytiponthetopofthemacaron,toremovethetipwithoutcreatingabigpeak.Continuepipingcircles,spacingthem½to1inch(1.3to2.5cm)apartuntilthetrayisfilled.(Whenfirststartingtomakemacarons,youmaywantguidancetocreatethecorrectsizeandshape.Trydippinga1-inch,or2.5cm,roundcookiecutterinpowderedsugarorcornstarch,thentapitontheparchmentpapertomakeaperfectlittlecircle.)Withafoldedtowelonthecountertoptosoftentheblow,veryfirmlyrapthe

bakingsheetonthecounterthreetimestoreleaseanyairbubblesfromthebatter.Rotatethepan180degreesandrepeat.Continueuntilallofthebatterhasbeenused.Setthebakingsheetsasideandletrestfor30minutes.Meanwhile,preheatthe

ovento350°F(175°C).Bake1trayatatime,startingwiththepanthathasrestedthelongest,inthe

centeroftheovenfor10minutes,rotatingthepanmidwaythroughthebakingtime.

time.Letcoolcompletelyonthepan,about30minutes,beforeremoving.

TOASSEMBLETHEMACARONS,pairmacaronsofmatchingsizes.Usingapastrybag,pipeabout1teaspoonofcooledchocolateganacheontothebottom(flatside)ofonecookiefromeachmatchedpair;alternatively,youcanuseasmalloffsetspatulatospreadtheganache.Setthesecondcookieofeachpairatoptheganache,bottom(flatside)down.

Gentlypresstogethertoevenlydistributetheganache,takingcarenottocrushthetopsofthecookies.Itworkswelltotakeonehalfineachhand,grasptheedgeswithyourfingersandshimmythemtogether—amotionnotunliketryingtoseparatethetwohalvesofanOreocookie.macaronsarebestwheneatenthedaytheyaremade.However,theycanbe

wrappedtightlyinplasticwrapandstoredinanairtightcontainerintherefrigeratorforupto3days.Serveatroomtemperature.

MACARONTROUBLESHOOTING

Anidealmacaronhasashinyroundtopcenteredatopathin,ruffledbase(calledthefoot).Ifyourfirstattemptsdon’tachievethisidealshapeandconfiguration,herearesometroubleshootingtips.

•Wettop:theshapedbatterdidn’tgetalongenoughrest.•Domenotcenteredonfoot:thepipedbatterrestedtoolong.•Abigairgapbetweenthesurfaceofthedomeandtheinterior:thebatterhadtoomucheggwhite;considerweighingthemnexttime.•Asplitdomeduetoexplosionofbatter:thebatterwasoverworked.•Afatdomewithapointytip:thebatterwasn’tworkedenoughorwasn’trappedonthecountertophardenough.•Stickingtotheparchmentpaper:themacaronsweren’tbakedlongenoughorwereremovedbeforecompletelycool.

OliveOilandRosemaryShortbread

OliveOilandRosemaryShortbread

MAKES35SHORTBREADCOOKIES/HANDS-ONTIME:20MINUTESFROMSTARTTOFINISH:4HOURS

Mybestfriend’smother,DeborahDunsworthQuinn,madepilesofherlegendaryshortbreadcookieseveryChristmasseasonwhileweweregrowingup.Theirhousewaslikeafactory,withstacksofwell-seasonedclayshortbreadmoldsbeingfilledandrefilledwithdoughbyherthreedaughters,Vanessa,Robin,andZoe,andpackagesgoingouttoeagerfriendsandneighborsaroundoursmallhometownofOjai,California.JustbeforeChristmas2007,Deborahunexpectedlyandtragicallypassedaway.Itwasaheart-wrenchingtime,andintheweekafterherpassing,herdaughtersconsoledthemselvesbygrabbingthewell-wornrecipe,dustingofftheshortbreadmolds,andmakingpilesandpilesoftheirmother’sshortbread,thistimeforthehundredsofguestsattendingtheirmom’smemorialservice.OurMintPlazacaféopenedshortlyafterherpassing,andinmemoryof

Deborah,Imodifiedherrecipeintowhathasbecomeoneofourmostpopularcookies.Thebaserecipeisverysimilartotheoriginal—buttery,salty,andwiththeperfectshortbreadtexture—butvariedbytheadditionofchoppedfreshrosemaryandagenerousbrushofoliveoilstraightoutoftheoven.ThequantitieswemakeatBlueBottlenecessitatethatwecannotuseshortbreadmolds,butIhaveaspecialclaymoldIusewhenmakingthesecookiesathome—which,hopefullyoneday,willbeaswellwornasDeborah’sare.ThisrecipedetailshowwemaketheshortbreadatBlueBottle,withoutamold.Ifyouhaveamold,seetheNotebelowfordetailsonbakingtheshortbreadDeborah’sway.

SUBSTITUTIONS:Thisisanincrediblyflexiblerecipethatisperfectformodifications.Add⅓cuptoastedpinenutsforaslightlymoresavoryandevenmorerichshortbread,asphotographed.OrforadelightfulTurkishcoffeeshortbread,substitute1tablespooncoarselygroundcoffeefortherosemaryandadd¼teaspoonofgroundgreencardamom.Thesearejustacoupleofideas,andIencourageyoutoexperimentandcomeupwithyourownvariations.

1cup(8oz/227g)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature1cup(4.1oz/115g)powderedsugar,sifted

1teaspoonfinelymincedfreshrosemary,or½teaspoondried1¼teaspoonskoshersalt2cups(9.9oz/280g)all-purposeflour,siftedExtra-virginoliveoil,forbrushing

Inthebowlofastandmixerfittedwiththepaddleattachment,beatthebutteronlowspeeduntilsmooth,1to2minutes.Addthesugar,rosemary,andsaltandmixonlowspeeduntilwellcombined.Scrapedownthesidesofthebowl,thenmixonmediumspeeduntillighterincolorandthetextureresemblesmayonnaise,4to5minutes.Scrapedownthesidesofthebowl,thenaddtheflour.Mixonlowspeedjust

untiluniformintexture.Scrapedownthesidesofthebowlandmixonlowspeedfor1minute.Gatherthedoughintoaball,transfertoapieceofplasticwrap,coverwitha

secondpieceofplasticwrap,andflattentoformarectanglemeasuring7by10inches(18by25cm)andabout½inch(1.3cm)thick.Wraptightlyandrefrigerateforatleast3hoursandupto5days.Preheattheovento350°F(175°C).Lineabakingsheetwithparchmentpaper.Cutthedoughintosmallrectanglesmeasuring1by2inches(2.5by5cm),

andplacethecookiesonthelinedbakingsheet,spacingthematleast1inch(2.5cm)apart.Bakeforabout18minutes,untilgoldenaroundtheedges,rotatingthepanmidwaythroughthebakingtime.Brushthetopswitholiveoilassoonasthecookiescomeoutoftheoven.Let

coolonthepanforatleast10minutesbeforeremoving,thenletcoolcompletelybeforeservingforoptimaltexture.Cooledcompletelyandstoredinanairtightcontainer,thecookieswillkeep

forupto3days.

NOTE:Touseashortbreadmoldinsteadofformingthedoughintoarectangle,pressthejust-mixeddoughintoan8-inch(20-cm)claymoldandflattenit intoan even layer. Bake at 350°F (175°C) for about 12 minutes, until the edgesbegintobrown.Letcoolfor10minutesbeforeinvertingtheshortbreadontoasheet pan, then immediately brush the topswith olive oil. Let cool completelybeforeservingforoptimaltexture.

Fennel-ParmesanShortbread

MAKES35SHORTBREADCOOKIES/HANDS-ONTIME:30MINUTESFROMSTARTTOFINISH:4HOURS

Thisshortbreadwasintendedtobeashort-termproducttouseupextraingredientsinourkitchen.Afewyearsback,Ithoughtitwouldbenicetomakeayeastedbreadproductourshops.Iwillreadilyadmitthatyeastscaresme,andI’vebeenlessthansuccessfulasabreadbaker,sowhenmygoodfriendNicoleKrasinskiofferedtodeveloparecipeandtrainourstafftomakebrioche,Ijumpedatthechance.Nicoleisbothanaccomplishedbreadbakerandverytalentedpastrychef,andshereallyshinesatmakinginventivesweetswithasurprisingsavoryelement.Thebriocheshedevelopedforuswasabsolutelylovely:aflaky,lightlysweetenedandbutterybreadwithahintofpepperandlargeflecksofParmesancheesestuddedthroughout.Beforebaking,wesprinkledthetopswithamixtureofcrushedfennelandlarge-grainedseasalt.Itwasdelicious,andIateoneeveryday.Sadly,thebriochenevercaughtonwithourcustomers,andeventuallyour

accountantssatmedowntotalkaboutthebrioche’slimpingprofitability.WithahugewheelofleftoverParmesancheese,apoundoffennelseeds,andstaffunhappywiththebreadbaker’s3a.m.starttime,Ineededtocomeupwitharecipethatwoulduseuptheingredientswehadonhandanddidn’trequirehoursofearlymorninglabor.IdecidedtomodifyourOliveOilandRosemaryShortbreadrecipewithNicole’sgreatflavorprofile.Theresultwaseasytomakeandsurprisinglydelicious,andhasbecomeapermanentandpopularhomagetothebriochethatIlovedsomuch.

SUBSTITUTIONS:Anysaltyhardcheese,suchasanagedManchego,GranaPadano,orMimolette,wouldbeasuitablereplacementfortheParmesan.

1cup(8oz/227g)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature½cup(2oz/57g)powderedsugar1¼teaspoonskoshersalt1teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper2cups(9.9oz/280g)all-purposeflour,sifted1cup(3.5oz/100g)finelygratedParmesancheese1tablespoonfennelseeds1tablespoonMaldonseasalt

Extra-virginoliveoil,forbrushing

Inthebowlofastandmixerfittedwiththepaddleattachment,beatthebutteronlowspeeduntilsmooth,1to2minutes.Addthesugar,koshersalt,andpepperandmixonlowspeeduntilwellcombined.Scrapedownthesidesofthebowl,thenmixonmediumspeeduntillighterincolorandthetextureresemblesmayonnaise,4to5minutes.Scrapedownthesidesofthebowl,thenaddtheflour.Mixonlowspeedjust

untiluniformintexture.Scrapedownthesidesofthebowl,addtheParmesancheese,andmixonlowspeedfor1minute.Gatherthedoughintoaball,transfertoapieceofplasticwrap,andcoverwith

anotherpieceofplasticwrap.Flattentoformarectanglemeasuring7by10inches(18by25cm)andabout½inch(1.3cm)thick.Wraptightlyandrefrigerateforatleast3hoursandupto5days.Preheattheovento350°F(175°C).Lineabakingsheetwithparchmentpaper.Coarselycrushthefennelseedswithamortarandpestleorgrindthemina

cleanspicegrinder.Transfertoasmallbowl,addtheseasalt,andmixwell.Cutthedoughintosmallrectanglesmeasuring1by2inches(2.5by5cm),

andplacethecookiesonthelinedbakingsheet,spacingthematleast1inch(2.5cm)apart.Brushthetopsliberallywitholiveoilandsprinklethefennelmixtureevenlyoverthetops.Bakeforabout18minutes,untilthecookiesaregoldenbrownandtheflecks

ofcheesearemediumbrown,rotatingthepanmidwaythroughthebakingtime.Letcoolonthepanforatleast10minutesbeforeremoving,thenletcool

completelybeforeservingforoptimaltexture.Cooledcompletelyandstoredinanairtightcontainer,thecookieswillkeep

forupto3days.

NOTE:UnlikeOliveOilandRosemaryShortbread,thisshortbreaddoesn’tworkinaclayshortbreadmold.

IntheAfternoon

BrooklynBootlegS’moresSaltedChocolateandVanillaBeanIceCreamSandwiches

AffogatowithSmokyAlmondIceCreamChocolatePudding

EllsworthKellyFudgePopsBrandyCakewithArborioRiceandAlmonds

PixieTangerineChiffonCakewithVanillaSwissMeringue

BrooklynBootlegS’mores

BrooklynBootlegS’mores

MAKES20SMALLS’MORES/HANDS-ONTIME:2HOURSFROMSTARTTOFINISH:5TO6HOURS

JamesandIhaveknownSarahCox,alovelyandtalentedbaker,sincetheearlydaysatBlueBottleinSanFrancisco.Nicknamed“Five-CappuccinoSarah,”shewasastalwartpatronattheFerryPlazaFarmersMarket,buyingcappuccinosforherselfandhercoworkers,whowereatthemarketshoppingfortheirrestaurant,Rubicon.Fast-forwardsixyearsto2010,withBlueBottleplanningaroasteryandcaféinBrooklynandmyhuntforabakerIcouldtrusttoruntheshowontheothersideofthecountry.Sarah,mytopchoicefortheposition,wastotallyupforitandpackedherboyfriendandherbelovedparakeet,MissK,intoaU-HaultrailerwithquiteafewpoundsofBlueBottlecoffeetokeepthemgoingontheirroadtrip.UponlandinginBrooklyn,herfirstorderofbusinesswastofindlocal

productstouse,eitheradaptingBlueBottle’sexistingrecipesorcreatingnewrecipestofeaturethem.MastBrothersChocolate,KingsCountyDistilleryMoonshine,TremblayApiaryFallflowerHoney,andDaisybrandorganicwholewheatpastryfloursaidonethingtome:s’mores!OnlyavailableatBlueBottle’sBrooklynlocation,theses’moreshavebecomethemascotofourEastCoastpastrydepartment.

SUBSTITUTIONS:Anyalcoholwillworkinthemarshmallows.IhavemadewonderfulmarshmallowswithLilletBlanc,champagne,andbourbon.

MARSHMALLOWS5gelatinsheets,or2½teaspoonspowderedgelatin¼cup(60ml/60g)coldwater,ifusingpowderedgelatin¼cup(1.1oz/31g)cornstarch¼cup(1oz/28g)powderedsugar3tablespoonsmoonshine¾cup(5.3oz/150g)granulatedsugar6tablespoons(2.9oz/85g)agavenectar2tablespoonswaterPinchofkoshersalt

GRAHAMCRACKERS1cup(4.9oz/140g)all-purposeflour

½cup(2.5oz/70g)wholewheatflour½teaspoonbakingsoda½teaspoonfreshlygroundcinnamon11tablespoons(5.5oz/156g)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature3tablespoonshoney¼cup(1.8oz/50g)granulatedsugar¼cup(1.9oz/54g)packedlightbrownsugar½teaspoonMaldonseasalt1recipeGanache

TOMAKETHEMARSHMALLOWS,ifusinggelatinsheets,submergetheminamediumbowlfilledwithicewateruntilsoft,5to10minutes.Ifusingpowderedgelatin,sprinkleitevenlyover¼cupcoldwater;letsitfor5to10minutes,thengentlywarminamicrowaveorinasmallsaucepanoververylowheatuntilallofthegranulesaredissolved.Siftthecornstarchandpowderedsugarintoasmallbowl.Linea9by13-inch(23by33cm)bakingpanwithtwolayersofparchment

paperorwaxedpaper,arrangedperpendicularlysothatallsidesofthepanarecovered.(Togetthepapertostayput,youcanbutterthepanfirst.)Dustgenerouslywithsomeofthepowderedsugarmixture,evenlycoatingtheentirebottomofthepan.Setasidetheremainingpowderedsugarmixtureforcoatingthefinishedmarshmallows.Ifusingsheetgelatin,squeezeoutallexcesswaterandputthegelatininthe

bowlofastandmixerfittedwiththewhiskattachment.Ifusingpowderedgelatin,pourthedissolvedmixtureintothebowl.Add2tablespoonsofthemoonshine.Inasmallheavysaucepan,combinethegranulatedsugar,agavenectar,2

tablespoonswater,salt,andtheremaining1tablespoonofmoonshine.Stiruntilwellcombined,thencookwithoutstirringovermedium-highheatuntilacandythermometerreads238°Fto240°F(114°Cto116°C).Pourthemixtureoverthegelatinandwhip,firstonlowspeedandgradually

increasingthespeedtohigh,untilsmoothandglossyandfirmpeaksform,8to10minutes.Themixturewon’tbegintoresembleamarshmallowuntilaroundthe5-minutemark.Usingarubberspatula,scrapethemixtureintothepreparedpanandsmooth

thetopwithanoffsetspatula.Letsitatroomtemperatureforatleast3to4hours,untilset.Siftagenerousamountofthereservedpowderedsugarmixtureoverthetop

ofthemarshmallows.Usingaclean,hotknifeorclean,hotscissors,cutinto2-inch(5cm)squaresandgenerouslydusttheedgeswithmoreofthepowderedsugarmixturetopreventsticking.Themarshmallowscanbestoredinanairtightcontaineratroomtemperature

Themarshmallowscanbestoredinanairtightcontaineratroomtemperatureforupto1week.

NOTE:Toeasilycleanapotormeasuringcupthatisstickywiththeremnantsofhot sugar syrup, fill it with warm water and let it sit until the sugar hasdissolved,about30minutes.

TOMAKETHEGRAHAMCRACKERS,sifttheall-purposeflour,wholewheatflour,bakingsoda,andcinnamonintoamediumbowl.Inthebowlofastandmixerfittedwiththepaddleattachment,beatthebutter

andhoneyonlowspeeduntilsmooth,1to2minutes.Addthegranulatedsugar,brownsugar,andsaltandmixonlowspeeduntilwellcombined.Scrapedownthesidesofthebowl,thenmixonmediumspeeduntillightandfluffy,4to5minutes.Scrapedownthesidesofthebowl,thenaddtheflourmixture.Mixonlow

speedjustuntiluniformintexture.Turnthedoughoutontoapieceofparchmentpaper.Pressintoaneven,flat

rectangleandputanotherpieceofparchmentpaperontop.Rollouttoabout⅛inch(3mm)thick.Withthedoughstillsandwichedbetweenthesheetsofparchmentpaper,transfertoabakingsheetandrefrigerateuntilfirm,about1hourandupto1week.Thisisastickydough,sodon’ttrytoremovetheparchmentpaperuntilitischilled;thenitcanbepulledoffcleanlyandeasily.Removethetoppieceofparchmentpaperandscorethedoughinto2-inch(5

cm)squares.Preheattheovento350°F(175°C).Linetwobakingsheetswithparchment

paper.Pokeeachsquarewithafork,creatingventholes.Useasmallmetalspatulato

transferthecookiestothelinedbakingsheets,spacingthem1inch(2.5cm)apart.Bakefor12to15minutes,untilgolden.Letcoolonthepanfor10minutesbeforeremoving.Letcoolcompletely

beforeusingtomakes’mores.Thegrahamcrackerscanbestoredinanairtightcontaineratroomtemperatureforupto2days.

TOASSEMBLEEACHS’MORE,smearabout1teaspoonofganacheonthebottom(flatside)oftwograhamcrackers.Placeamarshmallowatoptheganacheononegrahamcracker,topwiththesecondgrahamcracker,ganachesidedown,andgentlysquish.S’moresarebesteatenrightaway.However,theycanbestoredinanairtight

containerforupto2days.Notethatthegrahamcrackerswillgetincreasinglysoftthelongerthey’restored.Alternatively,allofthecomponentscanbestored

softthelongerthey’restored.Alternatively,allofthecomponentscanbestoredfor1week;themarshmallowsatroomtemperature,andtheganacheandunbakedgrahamcrackersintherefrigerator,soconsiderbakingonlyasmanygrahamcrackersasneededandsavingtheresttobakefors’moresanotherday.

SaltedChocolateandVanillaBeanIceCreamSandwiches

SaltedChocolateandVanillaBeanIceCreamSandwiches

MAKES10TO12ICECREAMSANDWICHES/HANDS-ONTIME:1HOUR,30MINUTES

FROMSTARTTOFINISH:9HOURS

AttheBlueBottlecaféintherooftopsculpturegardenattheSanFranciscoMuseumofModernArt,oneofmyfirstart-inspireddesserts,andstillanall-timefavorite,wasbasedontheKatharinaFritschsculptureKindmitPudeln(BabywithPoodles),aseriesof224blackpoodlespackedintofourconcentriccircleswithawhitesculptureofababyinthecenter.Anicecreamsandwichofsalted,chocolatepoodle-shapedcookieswithvanilla-fleckedpoodle-shapedicecreamtuckedinsidewastheperfectsummertimetreatforourfirstseasonatthemuseum,andanadorablehomagetothesculpture.Weonlyservethethemedpastrieswhiletherelatedartisdisplayedinthegalleries,so,sadly,whenthecuratorspackedupthepoodlestomakewayfornewart,wehadtopackupthisicecreamsandwich.Ofcourse,weusedapoodle-shapedcookiecutterwhenmakingthistreatat

themuseum,butIliketouseascallopedcirclewhenmakingtheseathome.Feelfreetogowithasquaretoreducecookieandicecream“waste”(notthatnoonewilleatthescraps!),orusewhatevershapemakesyoufeelmosthappy.

SUBSTITUTIONS:½teaspoonvanillaextractcanbesubstitutedforthevanillabean.

ICECREAM2cups(475ml/464g)heavycream1cup(240ml/242g)half-and-half⅔cup(4.7oz/133g)sugar½vanillabean6eggyolks(3.9oz/114g),atroomtemperature

CHOCOLATESABLÉS1½cups(7.4oz/210g)all-purposeflour¼cup(0.8oz/23g)natural(notDutch-processed)cocoapowder½teaspoonbakingsoda11tablespoons(5.5oz/156g)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature

¾cup(5.3oz/150g)sugar½teaspoonMaldonseasalt1teaspoonvanillaextract

TOMAKETHEICECREAM,combinethecream,half-and-half,andsugarinaheavymediumsaucepan.Splitthevanillabeaninhalf,scrapethepulpintothesaucepan,thenthrowinthepod.Cookovermedium-lowheat,stirringoften,untilbubblesbegintoformattheedges,between180°Fand190°F(82°Cand88°C).Removefromtheheat,cover,andletsitfor10minutes.Puttheeggyolksinamediumbowl.Add¼cupofthewarmcreammixture

andwhiskuntilwellblended.Repeatfivemoretimes,until1½cupsofthecreammixturehavebeenaddedandtheeggyolkmixtureisaswarmastheremainingcreammixture.Slowlypourtheeggyolkmixtureintothesaucepaninasteadystreamwhile

whiskingcontinuously.Cookoverlowheat,whiskingconstantly,untilthemixturethickensandcoatsthebackofaspoon,about10minutes.Strainthroughafine-meshsieveintoabowlandreturnthevanillapodtothemixture.Pressplasticwrapontothesurfaceandrefrigerateforatleast3hoursandupto12hours.Removethevanillapodandfreezeinanicecreammakeraccordingtothe

manufacturer’sinstructions.Linea9by13-inch(23by33cm)bakingpanwithplasticwrap.Pourthesoft

icecreamintothepan,spreaditinanevenlayer,andsmooththesurfacewithanoffsetspatula.Coverwithplasticwrapandfreezeforatleast4hours.Theicecreamcanbestoredinthefreezerforupto2weeks.

TOMAKETHESABLÉS,sifttheflour,cocoapowder,andbakingsodaintoamediumbowl.Inthebowlofastandmixerfittedwiththepaddleattachment,beatthebutter

onlowspeeduntilsmooth,1to2minutes.Addthesugarandsaltandmixonlowspeeduntilwellcombined.Addthevanillaextractandmixjustuntilincorporated.Scrapedownthesidesofthebowl,thenmixonmediumspeeduntillightandfluffy,4to5minutes.Scrapedownthesidesofthebowl,thenaddtheflourmixture.Mixonlow

speedjustuntiluniformintexture.Turnthedoughoutontoapieceofparchmentpaper.Pressintoaneven,flat

rectangleandputanotherpieceofparchmentpaperontop.Rollouttoabout¼inch(6mm)thick.Removethetoppieceofparchmentpaperandcutthedoughintosquareswithaknifeorusecookiecutterstocutshapes.Don’ttrytoremovethecookiesuntilthedoughhasbeenchilled.Slidetheparchmentpaperanddoughontoacookiesheet,coverwithplasticwrap,andrefrigerateuntilfirm,at

doughontoacookiesheet,coverwithplasticwrap,andrefrigerateuntilfirm,atleast30minutes.Preheattheovento325°F(165°C).Lineabakingsheetwithparchmentpaper.Useasmallmetalspatulatotransferthecoldcookiestothelinedbaking

sheet,spacingthemabout1inch(2.5cm)apart.Bakefor12to14minutes,untilcrisp,rotatingthepanmidwaythroughthe

bakingtime.Letcoolonthepanfor10minutesbeforeremoving.Letcoolcompletely

beforeusing.Thecookiescanbestoredinanairtightcontaineratroomtemperatureforupto1day.

TOASSEMBLETHEICECREAMSANDWICHES,lineupthecookies,allfacingup.Ifyouusedacookiecutterforthecookies,fillasmallbowlwithhotwaterandsoakthecookiecuttertowarmitforcuttingtheicecream.Removetheicecreamfromthefreezerandcutitintosquaresthesamesizeas

thecookiesorcutintoshapesusingthehotcookiecutter.Workingquickly,placeaportionoficecreamonacookieandtopwith

anothercookie.Storetheicecreamsandwichesonatrayinthefreezerasyougo.Iftheicecreamstartstomelt,putitinthefreezeruntilit’sfirmenoughtoworkwith.Theassembledicecreamsandwichescanbestoredinanairtightcontainerin

thefreezerforupto1week.

AffogatowithSmokyAlmondIceCream

AffogatowithSmokyAlmondIceCream

MAKES1QUART(945ML)ICECREAM,ENOUGHFOR5AFFOGATOSHANDS-ONTIME:30MINUTES/FROMSTARTTOFINISH:6HOURS,30

MINUTES

Ithinkcarobhasabadrap.MadefromthepodoftheMediterraneantreeCeratoniasiliqua,itissoldinpowderedformorinchips,mostofteninthebulkbinsatnaturalfoodstores.Althoughtypicallythoughtofasasubstituteforchocolate,itmostdefinitelyisnotchocolate,andmostpeoplewhotryitassucharehorrifiedattheflavor.However,I’mconvincedthatifyouletgoofthinkingofitasareplacementforsomethingyoulove(butsomehowdon’twanttoeat),andfocusonitasitsownthing,carobistotallylovable.Nutty,sweetandmalty,withaslightcoffeelikebitterness,it’safascinatingflavortoplaywithwhenappliedinsmallamounts.Unfortunately,allofthisbigtalkhasnevereasedJames’sdislikeofcarobor

madehimhappyaboutthecarobpeanutclustersIbringhomefromthenaturalfoodstore.Sosufficeittosayhewasskeptical,atbest,atmyplantomakeacarobdessertforBlueBottle.Determinedtoprovethathecouldlikeit,Icameupwiththeideaofpairingcarobwithasmokyalcoholandtoastedalmondsinanicecream,andthenpouringespressooverthetopforaclassicaffogato.Smoke,coffee,alcohol—ifhedidn’tloveit,attheveryleastitwouldappealtohismachoside.I’mnotsureifeatinganaffogatoisreallythatmacho,butasitturnsout,hereallylovesthisdessert.

SUBSTITUTIONS:Ifyoudon’thaveanespressomachine,pour¼cupstrongcoffeeovereachservingoficecream.Tequilacanreplacethemezcal;forasmokyflavor,useanañejoorreposadotequila.

SMOKYALMONDICECREAM2cups(475ml/464g)heavycream1cup(240ml/242g)half-and-half⅔cup(4.7oz/133g)sugar3tablespoonscarobpowder2tablespoonsmezcal6eggyolks(3.9oz/114g),atroomtemperature½cup(2.8oz/80g)almonds

5shots(125to175ml)espresso

TOMAKETHEICECREAM,combinethecream,half-and-half,sugar,carob,andmezcalinaheavymediumsaucepan.Cookovermedium-lowheat,stirringoften,untilbubblesbegintoformattheedges,between180°Fand190°F(82°Cand88°C).Puttheeggyolksinamediumbowl.Add¼cupofthewarmcreammixture

andwhiskuntilwellblended.Repeatfivemoretimes,until1½cupsofthecreammixturehavebeenaddedandtheeggyolkmixtureisaswarmastheremainingcreammixture.Slowlypourtheeggyolkmixtureintothesaucepaninasteadystreamwhile

whiskingconstantly.Cookoverlowheat,whiskingconstantly,untilthemixturethickensandcoatsthebackofaspoon,about10minutes.Strainthroughafine-meshsieveintoabowl.Pressplasticwrapontothesurfaceandrefrigerateforatleast3hoursandupto12hours.Inaheavymediumskillet,cookthealmondsovermediumheat,shaking

often,untilfragrantandslightlybrown,about5minutes.Letcoolcompletely,thencoarselychop.Freezethecreammixtureinanicecreammakeraccordingtothe

manufacturer’sinstructions,addingthealmondsalmostattheendofthechurningtime.Transfertoacontainer,cover,andfreezeuntilfirm,atleast3hours.Theicecreamcanbestoredinthefreezerforupto2weeks.

TOASSEMBLETHEAFFOGATOS,dividetheicecreamevenlyamongfivecupsorbowlsandpourashotofespressoovereach.Serveimmediately.

ChocolatePudding

ChocolatePudding

MAKES6TO8SERVINGS/HANDS-ONTIME:1HOURFROMSTARTTOFINISH:5HOURS,15MINUTES

PriortoopeningoftheMintPlazacafé,JamesandIdevotedalotofdiscussiontocivilizeddessertsthatcouldbeenjoyedalongsidethebeautifullypreparedsiphoncoffee.Icameupwiththeideaofapuddingbar:manydifferenttypesofbeautifulsilkenpuddingsservedinbeakersandtoppedwithfreshlywhippedcream.Iimaginedatexturesimilartopannacotta,onlymorejoyful,voluptuous,andpeaked,likethepuddingyouseeincommercials.Thoughthepuddingbarwastoremainadream(atleastfornow),alusciouschocolatepuddingdidseembothappealingandpractical,soIsetaboutdevelopingarecipe.UnabletoachievethetextureIwaslookingforusingtraditionalmethods

involvingcornstarch,Iaskedmyfriend(andalgaeenthusiast)chefDanielPattersonhisthoughtsonpudding.Veryopaquely,hesaid,“Dissolveagarintoyourliquid.Refrigerate.Andthenwhipupinablender.”I’velongbeenfamiliarwithagarasagellingagentmadefromalgaethatcanbeusedasavegetarianreplacementforgelatin;Daniel,however,hasbeenusingitinnovativelyinothercookingapplicationsforyears.Aftersomeexperimentation,Iappliedhisgellingtechniquetoaluxuriouslyrichanddeliciouschocolatecrèmeanglaise.Thispudding,whichwasbrieflybutgloriouslyservedindelicateHariobeakersalongsidesiphoncoffeeatMintPlaza,wasthewonderfulresult.

6ounces(170g)darkchocolate,62%to70%cacao1teaspoonvanillaextract1cup(240ml/240g)water¼cup(0.5oz/14g)agarflakes(seeNote)2cups(475ml/464g)heavycream1cup(240ml/242g)half-and-half¾cup(5.3oz/150g)sugar6eggyolks(3.9oz/114g),atroomtemperatureWhippedcream,forserving

Finelychopthechocolateorprocessitinafoodprocessor.Transfertoalargebowlandaddthevanillaextract.Inasmallsaucepan,combinethewaterandagar.Cookoverlowheat,stirring

constantly,untiltheagariscompletelydissolvedandathick,cleargelforms,withnovisibleagarpieces,about8minutes.

withnovisibleagarpieces,about8minutes.Inaheavymediumsaucepan,combinethecream,half-and-half,andsugar.

Cookoverlowheat,stirringoften,untilbubblesbegintoformattheedges,between180°Fand190°F(82°Cand88°C).Whiskintheagarmixtureandremovefromtheheat.Puttheeggyolksinamediumbowl.Add¼cupofthewarmcreammixture

andwhiskuntilwellblended.Repeatfivemoretimes,until1½cupsofthecreammixturehavebeenaddedandtheeggyolkmixtureisaswarmastheremainingcreammixture.Slowlypourtheeggyolkmixtureintothesaucepaninasteadystreamwhile

whiskingconstantly.Cookoverlowheat,whiskingconstantly,untilthemixturethickensandcoatsthebackofaspoon,about10minutes.Pourthemixtureintothebowlwiththechocolateandstiruntilthechocolate

iscompletelymelted.Strainthroughafine-meshsieveintoabowlorothercontainer.Pressplasticwrapontothesurfaceandrefrigerateforatleast4hoursandupto3days;thepuddingwillbecomeveryfirm.Transferthepuddingtoafoodprocessororblenderandprocessuntilsmooth,

shiny,andlightenedincolor,4to5minutes.Spoonintocupsandserveimmediately,toppedwithwhippedcream.Whippedpuddingisbesteatenrightaway.However,itcanbestoredinan

airtightcontainerintherefrigeratorforupto1day.Alternatively,theunwhippedpuddingcanbestoredinanairtightcontainerintherefrigeratorforupto3days,soconsiderwhippingonlywhatyouplantoserveandsavingtherestforanotherday.

NOTE: Agar flakes are available at Japanese markets or natural food stores,locatedneartheseaweed.Thekeytoworkingwithagarflakesistobesuretheyarecompletelydissolvedbeforeaddingthemtoothermixtures.Inthisrecipe,thefinal pudding is strained, so particles of agar aren’t an issue. But to getmaximum gelling and the smoothest possible texture, it’s crucial to cook theagarandwateruntilathick,cleargelforms.

EllsworthKellyFudgePops

MAKES10FUDGEPOPS/HANDS-ONTIME:15MINUTESFROMSTARTTOFINISH:2TO3HOURS

AttheBlueBottlecaféintherooftopsculpturegardenattheSanFranciscoMuseumofModernArt,allofthepastrieswemakeareinspiredbyworksofartondisplayatthemuseum.TakingacuefromtheEllsworthKellysculptureStele1,agiantweatheredoblongsteelobeliskthatoncedominatedthesculpturegarden,Idevelopedafudgepopthat,whenfrozen,hasasurfacetextureandcolorsimilartothegiantoriginal.WeusesiliconePopsiclemoldsshapedtolooklikethesculpture,butyoucanuseanyshapeofmoldforthisrecipe.Thesefudgepopshaveafairlylowmeltingpoint,soyouwon’twantto

dawdlewhileeatingone.Infact,beforeStele1returnedtoitspermanenthomewithitsowners,itwasadelightfulanddailysighttoseeadultsandkidsposinginfrontofthesculpture,meltingfudgepopinhand,tryingtomanagethedrippingwhiletheircompanionsattemptedtofittheentiresceneintotheframeofapicture.

SUBSTITUTIONS:Thisrecipeisalsodelicious—ofcourse!—withahintofcoffee.Forthispurpose,Ithinkit’sbesttoinfusewholecoffeebeansinthemilkintherecipeovernight.Thisgivesthefudgepopsabeautifulcoffeeflavorwithoutmarringtheirunctuoustexturewithcoffeegrounds.Thenightbeforemakingthisrecipe,combine½cup(120ml)ofwholecoffeebeanswiththemilk.Coverandrefrigerateovernight.Omitthemilkwhenwarmingthecreammixtureandblendthecreammixtureasdirected.Strainthecoffee-infusedmilkandstiritintothechocolate.Thenpourintomoldsandfreezeasdirected.

8ounces(227g)darkchocolate,62%to70%cacao1teaspoonvanillaextract1¼cups(300ml/290g)heavycream1cup(240ml/242g)wholemilk¼cup(1.8oz/50g)sugar4teaspoonsnatural(notDutch-processed)cocoapowder½teaspoonkoshersalt

Finelychopthechocolateorprocessitinafoodprocessor.Transfertoalargebowlandaddthevanillaextract.

bowlandaddthevanillaextract.Inaheavymediumsaucepan,combinethecream,milk,sugar,cocoa,andsalt.

Cookovermedium-lowheat,whiskingoftentobreakupthecocoapowder,untilbubblesstarttoformaroundtheedges,between180°Fand190°F(82°Cand88°C).Pourthecreammixtureoverthechocolateandstiruntilthechocolateis

completelymelted.Strainthroughafine-meshsieveintoaliquidmeasuringcup.Pourintoice-popmoldsandfreezeuntilfirm.Ifyoudon’thaveice-pop

molds,useicecubetrays;freezefor1hour,theninserttoothpicksorshortskewersandcontinuefreezinguntilfirm.Whenreadytoserve,dipthemoldsintohotwatertoloosenthefudgepops.Thefudgepopscanbestoredinthefreezerforupto2weeks.

BrandyCakewithArborioRiceandAlmonds

MAKES1LARGELOAF;SERVES8TO10/HANDS-ONTIME:2HOURS,45MINUTES

FROMSTARTTOFINISH:2TO3DAYS

ThiscakeisbasedonatraditionalBologneseEastertreatthat,likemanyItaliancelebrationcakes,hasalcoholpouredoverthetoprightwhenthecakecomesoutoftheoven.Thiscakeisrich,dark,labor-intensive,andatitsbestthreetofourdaysafteryoubegintheprocessofmakingit.Thoughconceptuallysimilartothemuch-malignedChristmasfruitcake,theresultisanenticingcakethatyou’llfinddelightfulandworthyofcelebration.Thedarkcrustconcealsagolden,lemon-scented,andalmond-studdedinterior.Itsmoisttexture,similartoricepudding,andbrandykickmakethisareallydeliciousalternativetothenightcap.Atraditionalistwoulduserumtosoakthecake,butIthoughtitwouldbefun

toexperiment.Itookthecakeandtwofaithfultasters(JamesandourfriendsommelierPaulEinbund)toSt.GeorgeSpiritstoexploretheirbarrel-agedbrandiesandfindthebestfit.Ontheproductionfloorofthedistillery,wemarveledatthehundredsofagingbarrelsfilledwithvariouswhiskeysandbrandies,andsniffedandtastedmanysamplesthatDaveSmith,oneofthedistillers,siphonedstraightfromthebarrelsforus.Handsdown,ofalltheliquorswesniffedandthefewIbroughthometotest,theagedSauvignonBlancbrandywastheperfectpairing.Unfortunately,St.Georgedoesn’tbottlethatbrandyforretailsale,sowhenyoumakethisathome,Iencourageyoutoexploreandtrydifferentspirits.Afterall,that’sreallywhatmakesthiscakesospecial.(FormoreonSt.GeorgeSpirits,andspiritsingeneral,seethesidebaronSpicesandAlcohol.)

4cups(945ml/968g)wholemilk1½cups(10.6oz/300g)sugar⅓cup(2.3oz/65g)Arboriorice1teaspoonkoshersaltFinelygratedzestof½lemon½cup(2.8oz/80g)almonds4eggs(7oz/200g),atroomtemperature1eggyolk(0.6oz/19g),atroomtemperature3tablespoons80-proofbrandy,plusmoreasdesired(seeNote)

Inalargeheavysaucepan,combinethemilk,1¼cups(8.8oz/250g)ofthesugar,andtherice,salt,andzest.Cookovermediumheat,stirringoften,just

sugar,andtherice,salt,andzest.Cookovermediumheat,stirringoften,justuntilboiling,beingcarefulnottoletthefrothingmilkoverflow.Decreasetheheattolowandcookattheslowestsimmerforabout2hours,

stirringoftenandadjustingtheheatasnecessary,untilthemixtureresemblesverythickricepudding:goldenbrownandwithverylittlemoistureremaining.Whenyoudrawaspoonacrossthebottomofthesaucepan,aclearlineshouldremain,withoutthemixtureflowingbackin.Transfertoabowlandletcooltoroomtemperature.(Atthispoint,youcan

coverandstoreintherefrigeratorforupto3days.)Inaheavymediumskillet,toastthealmondsovermediumheat,shaking

often,untilfragrantandslightlybrown,about5minutes.Letcoolcompletely,thencoarselychop.Preheattheovento350°F(175°C).Linea5by9-inch(13by23-cm)8-cup

loafpan,preferablyglassorceramic,withastripofparchmentpaperthesamewidthasthepanandlongenoughthatitsticksoutonbothends.Inthebowlofastandmixerfittedwiththewhiskattachment,whiptheeggs

andeggyolkonmediumspeedfor10seconds.Withthemixerrunning,slowlyaddtheremaining¼cup(1.8oz/50g)sugar.Increasethemixerspeedtohighandwhipuntilsoftpeaksform,8to10

minutes.Decreasethemixerspeedtomediumandaddthericemixtureinfour

additions.Scrapedownthesidesofthebowlafterthefinaladdition.Removethebowlfromthemixerandusearubberspatulatogentlyfoldinthealmondsuntilevenlyincorporated.Scrapethebatterintothepreparedpan.Bakefor40minutes,thenrotateand

bakeforanadditional20minutes,untilthetopisdarkgoldenbrownandthecakespringsbackwhengentlypressedinthecenter.Assoonasthecakecomesoutoftheoven,pokeitwithaskewerabout15

times,makingdeepholestoallowthebrandytosaturatethecake.Pourthebrandyoverthecakeandletthecakecoolinthepanfor30minutes.Runaknifealongthelongedgesofthepan(thosenotcoveredwith

parchmentpaper),thenturnthecakeoutonaflatsurfaceanddiscardtheparchmentpaper.Turnthecaketopsideupandletcoolcompletely.Wraptightlywithplasticwrapandletrestatroomtemperatureforatleast1daybeforeserving.Ifyoucanwait,thecakeisevenbetteronthesecondorthirdday.

NOTE:Thealcohol flavor in thiscakeshouldbe fairlypronounced; thebrandyweuse is80proofalcohol,sodon’tbebashfulaboutusingmoreifyou’renotgettingthebrandyflavoryouwant.

PixieTangerineChiffonCakewithVanillaSwissMeringue

MAKESONE9-INCH(23CM)CAKE;SERVES6TO8/HANDS-ONTIME:1HOUR

FROMSTARTTOFINISH:4HOURS,30MINUTES

WhenJamesandItookourfirsttriptoTokyowithourgoodfriendJayEgamiin2008,thesmallcaféthatwas(andstillis)themostthrillingforbothofuswasChateiHatou,nearShibuyaStation.Thecoffee,asJamesdescribes,isextraordinary,andthepageantrywithwhichitisexecutedandpresentedisunequaled.Butthenthereisthechiffoncake.Thecakeitselfisdelicious—abananachiffoncakewithacinnamonand

chocolateglaze.Butmoreinspiringthantheobjectistheprocess.Madebythebaristasduringshortbreaksbetweencoffeeorders,thecakesarefrostedwithaneaseandperfectionthatspeakstoagreatdealofpracticeintheprocess.Chocolateganacheisheatedinasmallcopperpotandappliedwithquick,confidentstrokesoftheoffsetspatula,firstonthesidesofthecake,thenoverthetop,andfinally,andmostimportantly,onthesurfaceofthecenterhole.Myinterpretationofthiscaketakesinspirationfrommyhometown,Ojai,

California.OjaiisatinycitrusgrowingtowninSouthernCalifornia,andit’stheonlyplaceintheworldwherePixietangerinesaregrown.Adelightfullyacidicandsweetseedlesstangerine,itisperfectinafeather-lightchiffoncake.WhileIlovetheganacheontheChateiHatoucake,oneofmyall-timefavoritethingstodoistofrostabig,tallcakewithaperfectlywhiteandfluffySwissmeringue.Themagicofanenormouscakefrostedwithdreamlikebillowsofmeringueandsetatopacakepedestalisprettymuchmydreamcometrue.Afewimportantpointers:Thecakecanbemadeuptoonedayinadvance.

Afterremovingitfromthepan,carefullydoublewrapitinplasticwrapandstoreintherefrigerator.However,themeringuemustbemadeimmediatelybeforefrostingandservingthecake.

SUBSTITUTIONS:Pixietangerinesarenotwidelyavailable.Substituteequalamountsofzestandjuicefromanyothertypeofsmall,sweettangerine,clementine,orsatsuma.Othervarietiesofcitruswillalsoworkwonderfully;for

those,use¼cupjuiceand¼cupwater.Iespeciallylovelime,Eurekalemon,oryuzuinthiscake.

CAKE1¾cups(8.6oz/245g)all-purposeflour¼cup(1.1oz/31g)cornstarch1tablespoonbakingpowder1½cups(10.6oz/300g)sugar2tablespoonsfinelygratedtangerinezest(fromabout5smalltangerines)1teaspoonkoshersalt¼cup(60ml/54g)extra-virginoliveoil7eggyolks(4.6oz/133g),atroomtemperature½cup(120ml/120g)freshlysqueezedtangerinejuice¾cup(180ml/184g)plainyogurt7eggwhites(7.4oz/210g),atroomtemperature½teaspooncreamoftartar

MERINGUE1cup(7.1oz/200g)sugar4eggwhites(4.2oz/120g),atroomtemperature1teaspoonvanillaextract

TOMAKETHECAKE,preheattheovento325°F(165°C).Havereadyacleananddry,ungreased9-inch(23-cm)tubepanwitharemovablebottom.Sifttheflour,cornstarch,andbakingpowderontoalargepieceofparchment

papernolessthanfivetimes.Transfertoalargebowl.Inamediumbowl,combinethesugar,zest,andsalt.Usingyourhands,

massageingredientstogether,workingthecitrusoilsintothesugar.Thesugarwilltakeonaslightorangecolorandveryfragrantsmell,maximizingthecitrusflavorinthecake.Addtotheflourmixtureandwhiskuntilwellcombined.Makeawellinthecenteroftheflourmixture.Addtheoliveoil,eggyolks,

andtangerinejuice,andmixtheliquidstogethertobreakuptheyolks.Mixtheyolksintotheflourmixturewitharubberspatulauntilwellcombinedandfreeoflumps.Addtheyogurtandmixuntilthoroughlyincorporated.Inthebowlofastandmixerfittedwiththewhiskattachment,whiptheegg

whitesandcreamoftartaronmediumspeeduntilsoftpeaksform,about6minutes.Transfertheeggwhitestotheflourmixtureandusearubberspatulatofoldin

themin.Workquicklyandgently,andstopassoonasyoucannolongerseestreaksofeggwhite.Transferthebattertothetubepanandsmoothwithanoffsetorrubberspatula.

Bakefor55to60minutes,untilthecakeisgoldenandfirmandspringsbackwhengentlypressedinthecenter,rotatingthepanmidwaythroughthebakingtime.

time.Coolupsidedown,atopafunnel,smalljar,orbottleforatleast2hours.Runa

smalloffsetspatulaorthinknifearoundboththeouterandinneredge,thenremovethesidesofthepan.Runthespatulabetweenthecakeandthebottomofthepan,theninvertontoaservingplate,topsidedown,andremovethebottomofthepan.

TOMAKETHEMERINGUE,justbeforeservingcombinealltheingredientsinthetopofadoubleboileroramediummetalbowlsetoverasaucepanofboilingwater.(Makesurethebottomofthebowldoesn’ttouchthewaterinthesaucepan).Whiskvigorouslyuntilwellblended,thencook,stirringconstantly,untilthesugarhasdissolvedandthemixtureisslightlywarm,about130°F(54°C).Transfertothebowlofastandmixerfittedwiththewhiskattachment.Whiponmediumspeeduntilsoftpeaksform,about6minutes.

TOASSEMBLETHECAKE,putabout½cupofthemeringueinasmallbowl.Usinganoffsetspatulaandworkingquickly(becausethefrostingbecomeshardertoworkwiththecooleritgets),applyathincoatingofthereservedfrostingtoallsurfacesofthecake;thisisthecrumbcoat,whichwillhelppreventcrumbsfromappearinginthefinalfrosting.Oncethecrumbcoatisapplied,spreadmostoftheremainingfrostingoverthesidesandtopofthecake,andfinishbyapplyingasmallamountoffrostingtotheinnersurface,insidethehole.Serveimmediately.

FromourFriends

RoseLevyBeranbaum’sCoffeePannaCottaDanielPatterson’sCoffee-RoastedCarrotswithChicoryGranolaChrisCosentino’sBraisedBoarShoulderwithGiganteBeansand

BabyVegetablesStuartBrioza’sTunaMeltSandwicheswithPiquilloPeppersStuartBrioza’sEggSaladSandwicheswithArugula-Almond

PestoandPickledFennelNopa’sBlueBottleMartini

RoseLevyBeranbaum’sCoffeePannaCotta

MAKES6TO9SERVINGS/HANDS-ONTIME:20MINUTESFROMSTARTTOFINISH:2HOURS,20MINUTES

IfirstmetRoseLevyBeranbaumwhenshewroteanarticleaboutMietteforFoodArtsmagazine.Iwasabsolutelyterrifiedtomeetthewomanwhohad,basically,taughtmehowtobakecakesviaherbookTheCakeBible,butIcouldn’thavebeenmorewronginassumingthatshewouldbeintimidatingandjudgmental.RoseisoneofthemostkindandgenerouspeopleI’veevermet.Yetunderneathallofhersweetnessisaveryspiritedheart.ShewillenthusiasticallywalkamilethroughBrooklynwithyoutofindahole-in-the-walldonutshopandfeastonfifteendonuts“inthenameofresearch”andisfulloffunstoriesfromherincrediblelifeasafixtureinthefoodworld.We’vekeptupalovelyfriendshipandtrytoseeeachotherwheneverweareonthesamecoast.RoseisahugefanofBlueBottlecoffeeandwasthefirstpersonIaskedto

contributearecipetothisbook,knowingthatmagicwouldhappenwhenshesethermindtoshowcasingthecoffee—andmagicitis!Becausethisrecipeismadewithsuchsimpleingredients,Roseadvisesusing“thebestqualitycream,thefreshestpossiblecoffee,andthefinestvanillaextract”foroptimumresults.

SUBSTITUTIONS:YoucanuseanothercoffeeinplaceoftheBlueBottleThreeAfricans.

2¼cups(530ml/522g)heavycream7tablespoons(3oz/85g)sugar(preferablyturbinadoorrawsugar)¼cup(0.7oz/20g)BlueBottleThreeAfricanscoffee,finelyground1½teaspoonspowderedgelatin1½teaspoonsvanillaextractWhippedcream,forservingChocolate-coveredcoffeebeans,forgarnish(optional)

Havereadyninecleananddry2-ounce(60ml)demitassecupsorsixsmalldecorativedessertorcustardcups.Inasmallsaucepan,stirtogetherthecream,sugar,andcoffee.Sprinklethe

gelatinontopandletsitforatleast3minutes.Stirinthegelatin,thencookovermediumheat,stirringconstantly,justuntil

bubblesformaroundtheedges,between180°Fand190°F(82°Cand88°C).

bubblesformaroundtheedges,between180°Fand190°F(82°Cand88°C).Strainthroughafine-meshsieveorastrainerlinedwithcheeseclothintoa

mediumbowl.Stirinthevanillaextract.Pourthemixtureintopreparedcustardcups.Covertightlyandchilluntilset,atleast2hours.Topwithfreshlywhipped

creamandgarnisheachservingwithachocolate-coveredcoffeebean,ifdesired.Thepannacottacanbestoredintherefrigerator,withthecupscoveredin

plasticwrap,forupto3days.

DanielPatterson’sCoffee-RoastedCarrotswithChicoryGranola

DanielPatterson’sCoffee-RoastedCarrotswithChicoryGranola

MAKES4SERVINGS/HANDS-ONTIME:30MINUTESFROMSTARTTOFINISH:1HOUR,30MINUTES

IhavebeenfriendswithDanielPatterson,chef-ownerofCoirestaurantinSanFranciscoandPlumandHavenrestaurantsinOakland,formanyyears.WhenIfirstmentionedthatIwasdatingJames,herespondedincredulously,saying,“You’redatingthatguy?Theuptight,‘Oh,thewater’snotexactlytherighttemperature’guy?”ThehilariousironyinthisisthatifanyonecanrivalJamesinuptightness,it’sDaniel.James’sresponse,macchiatoinhand,was“Uptight?Heiscallingmeuptight?”Itwaslikeadueloverwhoseturtleneckwasmoreblack.Asyouwouldexpect,itwasthebeginningofagreatfriendship.JamesandIarehugefansofallofDaniel’srestaurants,butCoiisespecially

magical,andI’vehadsomeofthemosttransformativediningexperiencesofmylifethere.AtypicalmealatCoiisten-pluscourses,eachverysmallandfocusedononeortwoofthemostfinelycuratedingredients.WhereDanielshinesiswithseasonalvegetables,teasingouttheiressencewithinnovativetechniquesandcleverpairings.Amidallofthemind-blowingflavors,weareinvariablyinaweoverthecarrotcourse.Yes,thecarrotcourse,whichearnedhimthenicknametheCarrotGeniusfromJames.DanielmakesthefollowingrecipeatCoibyroastingsweetcarrotswiththe

skinonuntilquitetender,thenslicingandservingwithcrèmefraîche,cilantroflowers,seasalt,afewdropsofextra-virginoliveoil,asprinklingofchicorygranola,andadustingofgroundcoffee.Thedishisneithersweetnorsavory,orisbothatonce,andatCoiitisservedasanin-betweensavoryanddessertcourse.DanielprefersourDecafNoircoffeeinthisdish,findingittoberobustwithoutbeingacidic.Thegranolamakesabout4cups,muchmorethanneededforthisdish,buttheleftoversaredeliciousforbreakfastandwillkeepforuptoaweekifstoredinanairtightcontaineratroomtemperature.

SUBSTITUTIONS:YoucanuseanotherdecaffeinatedcoffeeinplaceoftheBlueBottleDecafNoir.

CARROTS

¾pound(341g)sweetyoungcarrotswithtops,washedandtrimmedExtravirginoliveoilCrunchyseasalt1to1½cups(3to4.5oz/85to130g)BlueBottleDecafNoircoffee,wholebean

GRANOLA2cups(7oz/200g)rolledoats⅓cup(3oz/72g)packedlightbrownsugar¼cup(2oz/57g)unsaltedbutter2tablespoonshoney2teaspoonsfinelygroundchicoryroot(seeNote)½teaspoonkoshersalt

½cup(4oz/116g)crèmefraîcheExtra-virginoliveoil,forgarnishCrunchyseasalt,forgarnishCilantroflowersorsmallcilantroleaves,forgarnishGroundcoffee,forgarnish

TOMAKETHECARROTS,preheattheovento325°F(165°C).Tossthecarrotswithabitofoliveoilandseasonlightlywithsalt;theirflavor

shouldremainsweet.PourjustenoughcoffeebeansintoaheavyDutchovenorovenproofroasting

pottocompletelycoverthebottom.Addthecarrots,cover,androastuntilverytender,1to1¼hours.Letcoolinthepan;thecarrotswillhardenastheycool.

MEANWHILE,TOMAKETHEGRANOLA,puttheoatsinamediumbowl.Putthebrownsugar,butter,andhoneyinasmallsaucepanovermediumheat.Cook,stirringconstantly,untilmeltedandsimmering,thenimmediatelypourovertheoats.Addthechicoryandsaltandstiruntilthoroughlycombined.Spreadthemixtureinanevenlayeronarimmedbakingsheetandbake,

stirringoccasionally,forabout25minutes,untilgoldenbrown.Letcoolcompletely;thegranolawillgetcrunchyasitcools.Storedinatightlysealedcontaineratroomtemperature,thegranolawillkeepfor1week.

TOSERVE,removethecarrotsfromthepan,discardingthecoffeebeans.Slicethecarrotsonanextremediagonaltomakelongslices.Spread2tablespoonsofthecrèmefraîcheoneachservingplateandtopwithone-fourthofthecarrotslices.Garnisheachservingwithafewdropsofoliveoil,asprinklingofcrunchyseasalt,andafewcilantroflowers.Topwithsmallpiecesofthegranolaandadustingofgroundcoffee.Serveimmediately.

NOTE:Groundchicoryrootisavailableinnaturalfoodstores.

ChrisCosentino’sBraisedBoarShoulderwithGiganteBeansandBabyVegetables

ChrisCosentino’sBraisedBoarShoulderwithGiganteBeansandBabyVegetables

Makes6servings/Hands-ontime:1½hoursFromstarttofinish:3days

ChrisCosentinomaybethemostphotographedpersonattheSaturdayFerryPlazaFarmersMarket.AlthoughafixtureontheFoodNetwork,andpossiblythemostrecognizablefaceofchefdominSanFrancisco,heisstillverymuchrunningthekitchenathisSanFranciscorestaurantIncantoandhissalumeriaBoccalone.Anavidmarketshopper,heisoneofthefirstchefstoarriveatFerryPlazamarketonSaturdaymornings,loadinguphiscartbeforeanyoneelsecancomescoophim;likeanorganicvegetableversionofthegameshowSupermarketSweep.Hisyoungson,Easton,isusuallycatchingarideonhiscart,surroundedbypilesoffruitandvegetables.Eastonistwoyearsyoungerthanourson,Dashiell,butthetwoareascloseascanbe.Throughthekids,JamesandIhavebecomegreatfriendswithChrisandhiswife,Tatiana,andtheyaretwoofourfavoritepeopletospendourSundayafternoonswith.Wecouldn’timagineaskinganyoneelsetocontributeameatrecipeforthiscookbook,andwe’redelightedwiththisstunner.Thisrecipecallsformarinatingthemeatovernight,andChrisalsoprefersto

letthemeatrestovernightaftercooking,explainingthatitgivesthemeatachancetosuckupalltheflavorandmoisturefromthecoffee-andchocolate-infusedbraisingliquid.Addingapotatowhencookingthebeansisastrokeofgenius;itkeepsthebeanskinsfromsplittingduringcooking.

SUBSTITUTIONS:YoucansubstituteporkshoulderforthewildboaranduseanothercoffeeinplaceoftheBlueBottleGiantSteps.Babyvegetablesandfreshshellingbeansareoftenavailableatfarmers’markets.Ifyoucan’tfindfreshgigantebeans,use1pound(455g)driedlargewhitebeans,soakedovernight,butnotethattheywilltakeuptothreetimeslongertocookthanfreshbeans.Ifyoucan’tfindbabyfennelandturnips,uselargerones,quarteredandblancheduntiltender.

BOAR⅓cup(1.5oz/43g)BlueBottleGiantStepscoffee,wholebean

1tablespoonjuniperberries3pounds(1.4kg)bonelesswildboarshoulderKoshersaltFreshlygroundblackpepper1yellowonion,diced1carrot,diced1fennelbulb,chopped1fennelstalk,sliced¼inch(6mm)thick5clovesgarlic,crushed2cups(475ml/475g)redwine2tablespoonslardAbout5cups(1.2liters/1.2kg)porkorchickenstock2ounces(57g)darkchocolate,72%cacao,coarselychopped2freshbayleaves

BEANS4cupsshelledfreshgigantebeans(fromabout4lb/1.8kgbeansinthepod)1russetpotato,peeledandleftwhole1onion,peeledandleftwhole1garlichead,split1bayleaf1sprigthymeExtra-virginoliveoilKoshersaltFreshlygroundblackpepper

BABYVEGETABLES12mixedcolorbabycarrots,peeledKoshersalt12babyturnips12babyfennelbulbs

TOMAKETHEBOAR,puthalfofthecoffeeandallofthejuniperberriesinaspicegrinderandgrindtoacoarsepowder.Spreadthemixtureovertheentiresurfaceoftheboarandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Massagethespicesintothemeat.Transfertoapotorbowljustlargeenoughtofitthemeatandtheonion,carrot,andfennel.Addtheonion,carrot,fennelbulb,fennelstalk,garlic,andwine.Coverandrefrigerateforatleast6hoursandupto15hours.Preheattheovento300°F(150°C).Removethemeatfromthemarinadeandpatdry.Drainthevegetables,

reservingboththeliquidandthevegetables.HeatthelardinaheavyovenproofDutchovenorroastingpotovermedium-highheat,thenaddthemeatandsearuntilnicelycoloredallover,about10minutes.Removethemeatfromthepan,addthereservedvegetables,andcookover

mediumheat,stirringoccasionally,untilcaramelized,about10minutes.Grindtheremainingcoffee.Deglazethepanwiththereservedliquid.Addthe

coffeeandbringtoasimmer,thendecreasetheheatlowandsimmer,stirring

coffeeandbringtoasimmer,thendecreasetheheatlowandsimmer,stirringoccasionally,untilthepanisalmostdry,about4minutes.Add4cupsofthestock.Bringtoasimmerovermedium-highheat,thendecreasetheheattolowandsimmerforafewminutes.Addthechocolateandstiruntilmelted.Removefromtheheatandletcoolforafewminutes.Workinginbatchesifneedbe,processinafoodprocessoruntilsmooth.Strainthroughafine-meshsieve.Putthemeatbackintheroastingpotandpourthestrainedliquidoverit,

addingmorestockasneededtocoverbythree-quarters.Addthebayleaves.Bringtoasimmerovermedium-highheat,thentransfertotheovenandbakeuncovereduntilfork-tender,about2½hours,bastingoccasionally.Don’tovercook,orthemeatwillbedry.Letcool,thencoverandrefrigerateovernight.

TOPREPARETHEBEANS,putthebeans,potato,onion,garlic,bayleaf,andthymeinapotandaddwatertocoverbyabout3inches(8cm).Bringtoagentlesimmerovermediumheat,takingcarenottoboilthebeans,whichwillmakethemburstandbreakapart.Decreasetheheattomedium-lowandsimmeruntiltender,30to60minutes,dependingonthebeans.Discardthepotato,onion,garlic,bayleaf,andthyme.(Thebeanscanbecookeduptothispoint1dayahead;coolcompletelythentransferalongwiththeircookingliquidtoanairtightcontainerandstoreintherefrigerator.)Drainthebeans,reservingtheliquid.Stirinabitofoliveoilandseasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Keepwarm.

TOPREPARETHEBABYVEGETABLES,putthecarrotsinapotofcoldwaterwithapinchofsalt.Bringtoasimmerovermedium-highheat,thendecreasetheheattolow,cover,andsimmeruntiltender,about3minutes.Removewithaslottedspoonandrepeatwiththeturnips.Keepbothvegetableswarm.Fillalargepotwithwaterandbringtoaboilovermedium-highheat.Addthe

babyfennelandblanchuntilfork-tender,about2minutes.Drainandkeepwarm.

TOASSEMBLE,warmthemeat,initsbraisingliquid,overmediumheatandcookjustuntilwarmedthrough.Dividethebabyvegetablesandbeans,withsomeoftheircookingliquid,amongsixshallowbowlsandtopeachservingwithachunkofthebraisedboarandsomeoftheboarbraisingliquid.Serveimmediately.

StuartBrioza’sTunaMeltSandwicheswithPiquilloPeppers

MAKES4SANDWICHES/HANDS-ONTIME:35MINUTESFROMSTARTTOFINISH:45MINUTES

OurfriendStuartBriozawasaconsultantattheMintPlazacafébetweenworkingasexecutivechefatRubicon(awonderfulbutnow-shutteredSanFranciscorestaurant)andopeningtheincrediblerestaurantStateBirdProvisionswithhiswife,NicoleKrasinski.Stuarthasanamazingwayofmakingfoodthatisdeeplyflavorfulwithoutbeingfussyoroverlycomplicated.Inthissandwich,thedepthcomesfromacombinationofbrinyolives,richhomemadeaïoli,andpiquantpepperspairedwithhigh-qualityoil-packedtuna.Therecipemakesmoreaïolithanisneeded,butitwillkeepforuptothreedaysintherefrigeratorandwillbedeliciousonothersandwichesorasadip.

SUBSTITUTIONS:AtBlueBottle,weuseOrtiztuna,piquillopeppers,andCastelvetranoolives,butifyoucan’tfindthoseingredients,youcansubstituteothertypesofoil-packedtuna,roastedredbellpeppers,orothermildgreenolives(preferablyItalian).

AÏOLI2eggyolks(1.3oz/38g),atroomtemperature1tablespoonfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice1clovegarlic,minced2tablespoonspaprika1teaspoonfinelygratedlemonzest¾cup(180ml/161g)extra-virginoliveoilKoshersaltFreshlygroundblackpepper

TUNASALAD4cannedpiquillopeppers9ounces(255g)oil-packedtuna(preferablyMediterranean),drained2tablespoonscapers,drainedandchopped2tablespoonsfinelychoppedgreenolives(preferablyCastelvetrano)KoshersaltFreshlygroundblackpepper

4rusticsandwichrolls,or1baguettecutinto4equalpieces,slicedopen

1cup(3.5oz/100g)shreddedprovolonecheese,or4slices

Preheattheovento425°F(220°C).

TOMAKETHEAÏOLI,combinetheeggyolks,lemonjuice,garlic,paprika,andlemonzestinalargebowlandwhiskuntilthetextureisribbony.Youcanalsoputtheingredientsinasmallercontainerandprocesswithanimmersionblender.Startingwithjustadropatatimeandincreasingtoafewdropsatatime,slowlytheaddoliveoilwhilewhiskingorrunningthemixertocreateasmooth,well-blendedmixture.Whenthemixtureisstable,beginaddingtheoilinasteadystream,stillwhiskingormixingconstantly.Theaïolishouldhavetheconsistencyofmayonnaise.Ifgetstoothick,addhotwaterasneeded,1teaspoonatatime.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.

TOMAKETHETUNASALAD,coarselychop2ofthepeppersandputtheminamediumbowl.Addthetuna,capers,olivesandmixwell.Stirintheaïoliabitatatime,usingjustenoughtoholdthesaladtogetherwithoutmakingittoowet.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.

TOASSEMBLETHESANDWICHES,cuttheremaining2peppersinhalflengthwiseandplaceonehalfonthebottomhalfofeachroll.Topwithone-fourthofthetunasaladandcheese.Placetheopen-facedsandwichesonapanwiththetophalvesoftherollsplacedtothesideofthebottomhalvesandbakeuntilthecheesemeltsandbrownsaroundtheedges,5to7minutes.Topthesandwicheswiththetoastedtophalvesoftherollsandserveimmediately.

StuartBrioza’sEggSaladSandwicheswithArugula-AlmondPestoandPickledFennel

StuartBrioza’sEggSaladSandwicheswithArugula-AlmondPestoandPickledFennel

MAKES4SANDWICHES/HANDS-ONTIME:30MINUTESFROMSTARTTOFINISH:1HOUR,45MINUTES

AtmostofBlueBottle’sBayAreashops,weserveverysimplesandwichessimilartothoseavailableatFrenchtrainstations.AttheMintPlazacafé,wehavetheluxuryofasmallkitchen,pluscookswhoknowtheirwayaroundanegg,soweareabletoofferslightlymoreelaboratesandwiches.ThisisanotherbeautifulrecipedevelopedforusbyStuartBrioza.Hard-boiledeggsarecombinedwithasavoryarugula-almondpesto,layeredwithpickledfennel,andtoppedwitharichFioreSardocheese(asheep’smilkorpecorinocheesefromtheislandofSardinia),comingtogethertomakeadeliciouslunchthatisbothfamiliarandsurprising.Thisrecipemakesmorepickledfennelandpestothanisneededforthesandwiches.Thefennelisagreatadditiontoothersaladsorsandwiches,andthepestoiswonderfulwithpastaorspreadoncrostini.Storedinanairtightcontainerintherefrigerator,thefennelwillkeepforuptotwodaysandthepestowillkeepforuptofourdays.

PICKLEDFENNEL1fennelbulb,coredandthinlyslicedJuiceof1lemon1tablespoonextra-virginoliveoilKoshersaltFreshlygroundblackpepper

PESTO½cup(2.8oz/80g),almonds1cup(2.8oz/80g)packedarugula1cup(2oz/57g)lightlypackedItalianparsleyleaves¼cup(1oz/28g)gratedFioreSardoorotherpecorinocheese¼cup(60ml/60g)water2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoilLeavesfrom1sprigrosemary1smallclovegarlic½teaspoonkoshersaltFreshlygroundpepper

EGGSALAD

4eggsExtra-virginoliveoil,asneededKoshersaltFreshlygroundpepper

4rusticsandwichrolls,or1baguettecutinto4equalpieces,slicedopenFioreSardocheeseorotherpecorinocheese,slicedorgrated

TOMAKETHEPICKLEDFENNEL,placethefennelinabowl.Drizzlethelemonjuiceandoliveoiloverthetopandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Tosstocombineandletsitforatleast1hourandupto2days.

TOMAKETHEARUGULA-ALMONDPESTO,toastthealmondsinaheavymediumskilletovermediumheat,shakingoften,untilfragrantandslightlybrown,about5minutes.Letcoolcompletely.Transferthenutstoafoodprocessor.Addthearugula,parsley,cheese,water,

oil,rosemary,garlic,andsaltandprocessuntilsmoothandcreamy.Seasonwithpeppertotaste.

TOMAKETHEEGGSALADANDASSEMBLETHESANDWICHES,bringamediumsaucepanofwatertoaboilandprepareanicebath.Carefullyplacetheeggsintheboilingwater,decreasetheheattomedium-low,andsimmerfor8to9minutes.Removefromthepotwithawideslottedspoonandplungeintotheicebath.Peelandchoptheeggsandtransfertoamediumbowl.Stirin¼cup(60ml)

ofthepesto,drizzlinginabitofoliveoilifneededtoholdthesaladtogether(butnotethatthiseggsaladisdrierthanmost).Tasteandaddmorepestoifyoulike,andseasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.Filleachoftherollswithone-fourthoftheeggsalad.Putsomeofthepickled

fennelatoptheeggsalad,thenaddslicedorgratedFioreSardocheese.Garnishwithadrizzleofextra-virginoliveoilandseasonwithsaltandpepper.

Nopa’sBlueBottleMartini

Nopa’sBlueBottleMartini

MAKES1COCKTAIL

SometimesBlueBottle’swholesalepartnershavethedesiretobroadentheirmenubyaddingflavorsorotheringredientstoespressotomakeadrinkinwhichtheflavoroftheespressoisn’trecognizable.Thiswediscourage.Buteverysooften,wearepersuadedbyourconfidenceinapartnerandbecomeexcitedabouttheiridea.OneofthoseisNopa,oneofourfavoriteSanFranciscorestaurants,andawholesalepartnerwhocontinuallydemonstratesthatservinggoodcoffeeandespressoinarestaurantsettingisnotonlypossiblebutcanbedonereliably.WhenNopaco-ownerJeffHanakaskedusaboutservingaBlueBottlemartinithathisbarmanagerhadcomeupwith,Jameswasexcitedtotryit.It’sadeliciousdrink,andonethathassomuchappealthathisbartendersregularlymakedozenseverynight.SantaTeresaArakuisarum-basedcoffeeliqueurfromVenezuela.Ifyoucan’tfindit,youcansubstituteanotherrum-ortequila-basedcoffeeliqueur.TheubiquitousKahluaisbestavoidedforthiscocktailgiventhechemicalsweetnessitbringstoalmostanydrinkittouches.Youcansubstituteanotherespressoifyoulike.

1.5fluidounces(45ml)vodka1fluidounce(30ml)SantaTeresaAraku1shotofBlueBottleHayesValleyespresso

Pourtheliquorsandespressointoamixingglasswithice.Shakewell,thenstrainintoalargecocktailglass.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

WewouldliketothanktheteamatTenSpeedPress,especiallyoureditor,MelissaMoore,andAaronWehner,BetsyStromberg,andKatyBrown.ManythankstoourfriendsRoseLevyBeranbaum,StuartBrioza,Chris

Cosentino,JeffHanak,NicoleKrasinski,andDanielPattersonforsharingtheirrecipes.WeareespeciallygratefultothefamilybehindRusty’sHawaiianontheBig

Island—LorieObra,JoanObra,R.MiguelMeza,andRalphGaston—forgenerouslyallowingustovisittheirfarmandfortheirhelpontheGrowchapter.ThankyoualsotoMaryDiamondandPieroBambiatLaMarzoccoinItalyandAidaBatlleinElSalvador.

FROM JAMES This book is dedicated to my family: my perfect, beautiful,talented, pragmatic, and serene (with dimples of steel) wife, CaitlinWilliamsFreeman,andmymasteroffartybeatboxing,readeraloudofSpyvs.Spy,passerof cool lima beans, Dashiell Ellis Freeman. Caitlin—love is not perfunctory.Love is every second. I would also like to ask their permission to split thisdedicationseveralwayswiththefollowing:ClayandTara—thankyouforbeinganinspiringanddedicatedteam.Abook!

Whoknew?!TheentirecrewatBlueBottle—everytimeIhavesomethingdeliciousatone

ofourshops,everytimeIhearathankyouoraplease,everytimeIseeagleamingsteamwand,everytimeIhearadiplomaticexplanationofatrickydrinkworthyofDavidLloydGeorge,myheartswellswithprideatwhatwehaveallcreated.Thoseofyouwhohavestayedsolongandworkedsohard—KatieBooser,ArnoHolschuh,MarioPerez,ShawSturton,VanessaGates,MichelleOtt,AngélArgüello,EmilianoArgüello,JohnO’donovan,JoEllenDepakakibo,AlexKlimek,CarmenMaldonado,ErenOrtuño—aretherethanksenough?AllthepeopleImadedrinksforatthesouthsideoftheFerryBuildingon

Saturdays:Irememberyourkindnessandenthusiasm.Ithoughtaboutthekindofcoffeebookyouwouldliketoread,andthenItriedtowriteit.Mr.JayEgami:thankyouforbeinganexemplarofrectitude.Aventurecapitalist?Yes!Aventurecapitalist:thankyouJohnEastburnfor

beingsmart,modest,andhelpful.

beingsmart,modest,andhelpful.KevinMahan,MichaelAnthony,andtherestofthecrewatGramercyTavern,

youhavegivenustheNorthStarofhospitality.Everyoneworkingsohardincoffeearoundtheworld:somanyhands

growing,picking,processing,shipping,serving.Myhopeisthatthedemandforgoodcoffeemakesmanylivesbetter.AidaandLorie—thankyouforlettingusbuy,roast,andserveyourextraordinarycoffee.Thankstothreemenbornin1919:KalmenOpperman,JamesMonroe

Freeman,andJeromeDavidSalinger.AlsothankstoMarcelProust,RobertNagel,GlennGould,HaroldWright,andMarcelBreuer.Also,counterfactualconditionals,dependentclauses,thesubjunctivecase,coololdstereos,beatupFrenchcars,SanMarcoLevas,andBenjaminMooreDoveWing960.

FROMCAITLINWhatanadventurewe’vehad,Mr.WilliamJamesFreeman!Thankyouforbeingmyverybestfriend,mybiggestfan,thepersonIlookuptothemost,andthesecretfunniestpersonI’veevermet.You’retheoneIwanttowork beside every day, and to fall asleep next to every night. Thank you forbringingDashiell intomy life, and formaking a familywithme. I absolutelyadoreyouandamsoproudoftheworkyouhavedone.ClayMcLachlanandTaraDuggan,I’msoamazedatwhatwedid!Clay,

thankyouforbeingthegenesisofthisbook,andforbeingtheeyesthroughwhichsomanywillseeBlueBottle.Yournamedeservestobeonthecoverofthisbook,andI’msorrywecouldn’tmakethathappen.Tara,thankyouforkeepingusontrack,formakingtherecipesflawless,andformakingmesoundmuchsmarterthanIam.Youarebothgreatfriendsandstupendouscollaborators.Tomydad,JayWilliams.Youhavealwaysbeenmyexampleofhardwork

anddetermination,andtoearnyourprideiswhyIworklikeIdo.ThankyouforraisingJennaandmetobestrongandambitiouswomen,abletocreateourownfuturesandbehappyinworkandinlife.Iloveyou.And,JennaHerre,youareincredible.Iamsofortunatetohaveyouasabigsister.Toallofmypastryteams,past,presentandfuture—thankyou!Specialthanks

goouttoLeahRosenberg,SarahCox,andAlyssaMeijerDreesforallofyourworkinmanagingthethreeBlueBottlepastrydepartmentsduringthewritingofthisbook.YoumakethesebeautifulrecipeseverydayandyourexcellentpastryskillshavetaughtmehowtomakethemevenbettereverytimeIdo.Iturnedtosocialmediatofindrecipetestersforthisbook,andtheprocessof

gettingtoknoweachandeveryoneofthe69wonderfulpeoplewhovolunteeredwasmoreinspiringthanalmostanythingelseI’vedone.Somejustdidoneor

tworecipes,andsomedevotedtheirfullefforts,makingmorecookies,cakes,andtreatsthanIwouldknowhowtogetridof.Theyallreturnedwiththemostilluminatingquestions,cleverthoughtsonwhatthehomebakerneeds,demandsforfurtherclarificationand,intheend,photosoftheirresults.Intheprocess,Iwashumbledbytheirgenerosity,wowedbytheirskills,embarrassedatmyoversights,andsoproudoftheiraccomplishments.So,thankyou,mybelovedtesters:LoisMead,SharonGrof,JenniferIvanovich,JoanneSy,JenniferSukhija,ZacTigue,EmilyWhitehurst,MikeValdez,JoyCaves,MariaSaguisag-Sid,MicheleGarcia,AlexWhitehurst,SayuriParks,AmyCleary,KathyEms,PeterMosqueda,StevenThorne,TamiStrang,ImeldaPunsalan,BettySun,RoseFera,VevinaMcAllister,FredandEllisKuu,HannahRabkin,SetonMangine,KristinePoole,AnnaleaReegan,HidiSuen,AliciaPenzel,LuisaBarron,LisaScheff,CindyChoi,MoyaMagilligan,MeredithEisgrau,StephanieLamar,ElizabethMilks,MarileeNguyen,ErikKlepper,JohnandLeeJoh,EiAsada,EddyPak,AmyRobinson,KimberleeTsai,EricaRolston,LauriePauker,RheaSt.Julien,MaeveKennedy,AmandaSmith,JennePatrick,AngelaLashbrook,KathleenEmma,JulieWagne,TammieVisintainer,ShannonWerner,JackieBDeMille,SandyChan,TrevorFischer,SuzanneZuppello,NatashaSanchez,MaryannCampisi,ChristinaPadis,StephanieTietbohl,Kirk&Ei-LunYokomizo,ValerianHrala,BenLynch,AnnaGui,andDoreneKanoh.

FROMTARAInaddition toeveryoneabove, Iwould like to thankJamesandCaitlinforbringingmeonthis incredibleprojectandfor invitingmeinto theirhome for fun, rewarding,andalwaysdeliciousworksessions.Clay, thankyouforbeingacatalystandagreatpartneron thisandmanyfuturebooks.Thanksalso to my agent, Danielle Svetcov; MiriamMorgan andMichael Bauer, myeditorsat theSanFranciscoChronicle; JennaMeyer forher invaluablehelp inthekitchen;andMarlaSimon.AtBlueBottle,I’dliketodouble-thankVienDobuiandJosephZohnfor

lettingmesitinonespressotraining,aswellasMichelleOtt,KatieBooser,ArnoHolschuh,ShawSturton,AlyssaMeijerDrees,VanessaGates,AngélArgüello,EnriqueArgüello,andSallyRather.I’mgratefultomyparents,JaneandMichaelDuggan,whogavemethe

chancetodrinkalotofNeapolitanespressiatanimpressionableage,andtoDahliaandElsieforbeingexcitedaboutacoffeebookdespitebeingunderage10—andfortryingoutallthosecookies.Finally,thankyouEricGustafsonforyourunendingsupportandlove,andforwarmingupthecoffeecups.

INDEX

A

Absinthe-SesameCigarsAcidityAffogatowithSmokyAlmondIceCreamAïoliAlcoholAlmonds

AffogatowithSmokyAlmondIceCreamBiscottiPizzettaBlueberryBucklewithVanilla-AlmondStreusel(variation)BrandyCakewithArborioRiceandAlmondsChocolateParisianMacaronsEggSaladSandwicheswithArugula-AlmondPestoandPickledFennel

Argüello,AngélandEnriqueArugula-Almond Pesto, Stuart Brioza’s Egg Salad Sandwiches with Pickled

FennelandAziza

B

BambifamilyBatlle,Aida,1.1,1.2Beans,Gigante,ChrisCosentino’sBraisedBoarShoulderwithBabyVegetables

andBéchamelBeer

StoutCoffeeCakewithPecan-CarawayStreuselBeranbaum,RoseLevy,4.1,4.2BiscottiPizzettaBlendsBlueberryBucklewithVanilla-AlmondStreusel(variation)BlueBottle

CupofExcellenceauctionandespressoat,3.1,3.2growthof,itr.1,4.1historyof,itr.1,3.1roastingat

BlueBottleBenedictBoar Shoulder, Chris Cosentino’s Braised, with Gigante Beans and Baby

VegetablesBoccaloneBonmacBrandyCakewithArborioRiceandAlmondsBraziliancoffeeBread

BlueBottleBenedictEggSaladSandwicheswithArugula-AlmondPestoandPickledFennelPoachedEggsonToastTunaMeltSandwicheswithPiquilloPeppers

BreakfastBlueBottleBenedictBrownSugarandWinterSpiceGranolaCatalanEggswithBraisedGreensandTomatoSauceHomemadeYogurtLiègeWaffles

PoachedEggsonToastStoutCoffeeCakewithPecan-CarawayStreuselStrawberryBucklewithLemon-PistachioStreuselZachteWaffles

Brewingequipmentfor,3.1,3.2Frenchpressmachinesforneldrippodpourover,3.1,3.2,3.3siphonTurkishSeealsoEspresso

Brioza,Stuart,4.1,4.2,4.3BrooklynBootlegS’moresBrownSugarandWinterSpiceGranolaBuckles

BlueberryBucklewithVanilla-AlmondStreusel(variation)PumpkinBucklewithSpicedWalnutStreusel(variation)RaspberryandPeachBucklewithLemon-PistachioStreusel(variation)RoastedMandarinBucklewithPecanStreusel(variation)StrawberryBucklewithLemon-PistachioStreusel

Butter

C

CaffelatteCakes

BrandyCakewithArborioRiceandAlmondsMadeleinesPixieTangerineChiffonCakewithVanillaSwissMeringueStoutCoffeeCakewithPecan-CarawayStreuselSeealsoBuckles

CappuccinoCarobpowder

AffogatowithSmokyAlmondIceCreamCarrots,DanielPatterson’sCoffee-Roasted,withChicoryGranolaCatalanEggswithBraisedGreensandTomatoSauceChateiHatou,3.1,4.1Cheese

BlueBottleBenedictFennel-ParmesanShortbreadTunaMeltSandwicheswithPiquilloPeppers

ChocolateBrooklynBootlegS’moresChocolateGanacheChocolateParisianMacaronsChocolatePuddingChocolateSabléschoosingDouble-ChocolateCookiesEllsworthKellyFudgePopsGanacheMochaSaltedChocolateandVanillaBeanIceCreamSandwiches

Chris Cosentino’s Braised Boar Shoulder with Gigante Beans and BabyVegetables

Coffee(general)acidityandblackvs.addingcreamorsugarblendsvs.single-origin

fromBrazildrymillingfromElSalvadorfromEthiopiaevaluatinggreengrindinggroundgrowingharvestingfromHawaii,1.1,1.2inJapan,3.1,3.2,3.3natural(dry),1.1,1.2,1.3organic,1.1,1.2podprocessing,1.1,1.2,1.3pulpednatural,1.1,1.2storingfromSumatratypesofwashed(wet),1.1,1.2,1.3wethullingSeealsoBrewing;Cupping;Espresso;Roasting

Coffee(recipes)AffogatowithSmokyAlmondIceCreamChris Cosentino’s Braised Boar Shoulder with Gigante Beans and BabyVegetablesDanielPatterson’sCoffee-RoastedCarrotswithChicoryGranolaFrenchPressMochaNelDripCoffeeNopa’sBlueBottleMartiniPour-OverCoffeeRoseLevyBeranbaum’sCoffeePannaCottaSiphonCoffeeTurkishCoffeeTurkishCoffeeShortbread

CoffeeCake,Stout,withPecan-CarawayStreuselCoi

CookiesBiscottiPizzettaChocolateParisianMacaronsDouble-ChocolateCookiesFennel-ParmesanShortbreadGinger-MolassesCookiesOliveOilandRosemaryShortbreadSaffron-VanillaSnickerdoodlesSesame-AbsintheCigarssizesofTurkishCoffeeShortbread

Cosentino,ChrisCox,SarahCremaCupofExcellence(COE),1.1,1.2,1.3Cupping

benefitsofdefinitionofathomelanguageof

D

DanielPatterson’sCoffee-RoastedCarrotswithChicoryGranolaDesserts

AffogatowithSmokyAlmondIceCreamBrandyCakewithArborioRiceandAlmondsBrooklynBootlegS’moresChocolatePuddingEllsworthKellyFudgePopsPixieTangerineChiffonCakewithVanillaSwissMeringueRoseLevyBeranbaum’sCoffeePannaCottaSaltedChocolateandVanillaBeanIceCreamSandwichesSeealsoCookies

DoñaTomásDouble-ChocolateCookiesDunn,Liz

E

Egami,Jay,3.1,3.2,4.1Eggs

BlueBottleBenedictCatalanEggswithBraisedGreensandTomatoSaucePoachedEggsonToastatroomtemperaturesizeofStuart Brioza’s Egg Salad Sandwiches with Arugula-Almond Pesto andPickledFennel

Einbund,PaulEllsworthKellyFudgePopsElSalvador,coffeefrom,1.1,1.2Equipment

forbakingforbrewing,3.1,3.2,3.3grinders,3.1,3.2,3.3scales,2.1,4.1SeealsoEspressomachines

EspressoaccessoriesforAffogatowithSmokyAlmondIceCream-baseddrinksblends,1.1,3.1atBlueBottle,3.1,3.2cremaondefinitionofgrindersfor,3.1,3.2inItalymaking,3.1,3.2MochaNopa’sBlueBottleMartiniristrettosteamingmilkSeealsoEspressomachines

Espressomachines

allureofchoosingcleaningcomponentsof,3.1,3.2costof,3.1,3.2,3.3thermalstabilityandtypesof

Ethiopiancoffee

F

FennelEggSaladSandwicheswithArugula-AlmondPestoandPickledFennelFennel-ParmesanShortbread

Flour,measuringFrenchpresscoffeeFritsch,Katharina

G

GanacheBrooklynBootlegS’moresChocolateGanacheChocolateParisianMacaronsMocha

Gaston,Ralph,1.1,1.2GibraltarGinger-MolassesCookiesGranola

BrownSugarandWinterSpiceGranolaDanielPatterson’sCoffee-RoastedCarrotswithChicoryGranola

Greens,Braised,CatalanEggswithTomatoSauceandGrinders,3.1,3.2,3.3

H

HamBlueBottleBenedict

Hanak,JeffHawaiiancoffee,1.1,1.2Holschuh,ArnoHomemadeYogurt

I

IbriksIcecream

AffogatowithSmokyAlmondIceCreamSaltedChocolateandVanillaBeanIceCreamSandwiches

IncantoIslaCoffeeItaly,espressoin,3.1,3.2

J

Japan,coffeein,3.1,3.2,3.3

K

Kelly,EllsworthKrasinski,Nicole,4.1,4.2,4.3

L

Lagier,JohnLahlou,MouradLaMarzoccoLeSanctuaireLicata,Pete,1.1,1.2LiègeWaffles

M

Macarons,ChocolateParisianMacchiatoMadeleinesMaillardreactionMandarinBuckle,Roasted,withPecanStreusel(variation)Martini,Nopa’sBlueBottleMazzeo,RosarioMeasurements

offlourbyweight,2.1,4.1

Meza,R.Miguel,1.1,1.2Miette,itr.1,4.1,4.2Milk,steamingMixersMochaMurphy,Jack

N

NeldripcoffeeNopa’sBlueBottleMartini

O

OatsBrownSugarandWinterSpiceGranolaDanielPatterson’sCoffee-RoastedCarrotswithChicoryGranolaStoutCoffeeCakewithPecan-CarawayStreusel

Obra,Joan,1.1,1.2Obra,Lorie,1.1,1.2Obra,RustyOliveOilandRosemaryShortbreadOpperman,KalmenOrganiccoffee,1.1,1.2

P

PannaCotta,RoseLevyBeranbaum’sCoffeePans,changingsizeofPatterson,Daniel,4.1,4.2PeachandRaspberryBucklewithLemon-PistachioStreusel(variation)Pecans

BrownSugarandWinterSpiceGranolaRoastedMandarinBucklewithPecanStreusel(variation)StoutCoffeeCakewithPecan-CarawayStreusel

Peet’sCoffee,1.1,1.2Peppers,Piquillo,StuartBrioza’sTunaMeltSandwicheswithPesto,Arugula-AlmondPistachios

RaspberryandPeachBucklewithLemon-PistachioStreusel(variation)StrawberryBucklewithLemon-PistachioStreusel

PixieTangerineChiffonCakewithVanillaSwissMeringuePizzetta211(restaurant)PoachedEggsonToastPodcoffeePops,EllsworthKellyFudgePour-overcoffee,3.1,3.2,3.3Proust,MarcelPudding,ChocolatePumpkin

PumpkinBucklewithSpicedWalnutStreusel(variation)puree

Q

Quinn,DeborahDunsworth

R

RaspberryandPeachBucklewithLemon-PistachioStreusel(variation)Ray,MegRecchiuti,Michael,itr.1,4.1Rice,Arborio,BrandyCakewithAlmondsandRoastedMandarinBucklewithPecanStreusel(variation)Roasting

atBlueBottleequipmentfor,2.1,2.2firstcrack“French”or“Italian”athomesecondcrackweightlossfrom

Roccanova,GinaRoseLevyBeranbaum’sCoffeePannaCottaRoyalCoffee,itr.1,2.1RubiconRusty’sHawaiian,1.1,1.2

S

SaffronBiscottiPizzettaSaffron-VanillaSnickerdoodles

St.GeorgeSpirits,4.1,4.2Salt,4.1,4.2SaltedChocolateandVanillaBeanIceCreamSandwichesSandwiches

SaltedChocolateandVanillaBeanIceCreamSandwichesStuart Brioza’s Egg Salad Sandwiches with Arugula-Almond Pesto andPickledFennelStuartBrioza’sTunaMeltSandwicheswithPiquilloPeppers

SanFranciscoMuseumofModernArt,itr.1,4.1,4.2,4.3Sauces

Arugula-AlmondPestoBéchamelTomatoSauce

Scales,2.1,4.1Schomer,DavidSesame-AbsintheCigarsShortbread

Fennel-ParmesanShortbreadOliveOilandRosemaryShortbreadTurkishCoffeeShortbread

SiphoncoffeeSmokyAlmondIceCreamS’mores,BrooklynBootlegSnickerdoodles,Saffron-VanillaSolberg&HansenSpecialtyCoffeeAssociationofAmericaSpicesStateBirdProvisions,4.1,4.2StoutCoffeeCakewithPecan-CarawayStreuselStrawberryBucklewithLemon-PistachioStreuselSumatrancoffee

T

Tabios,WilliamTanakaBarTangerineChiffonCake,Pixie,withVanillaSwissMeringueThermocouplesThiebaud,WayneTomatoSauce,CatalanEggswithBraisedGreensandTunaMeltSandwicheswithPiquilloPeppers,StuartBrioza’sTurkishcoffee

TurkishCoffeeShortbread

U

UCC(UeshimaCoffeeCo.)

V

VodkaNopa’sBlueBottleMartini

W

WafflesLiègeWafflesZachteWaffles

WalnutsBrownSugarandWinterSpiceGranolaPumpkinBucklewithSpicedWalnutStreusel(variation)

Weightmeasurements

Y

Yogurt,Homemade

Z

ZachteWaffles