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One hundred tested and proven recipes, all authentic and easy to prepare. Not just a cookbook -there are introductory chapters about Myanmar and its history, plus speciality subject articles interspersed, from Tea Houses, Scott Market, Local Etiquette, and 2000-year old Shwe Dagon Pagoda.
Citation preview
X XI
Burma is a magical country, brilliantly captured in the words and
images of The Burma Cookbook. “If British India was the jewel in the
empire’s crown, then Burma was its treasury,” writes Robert Carmack,
and he clearly loves every kilometer of its mountains and rivers, its
glimmering temples and the peaceful, welcoming smiles of its people.
I’ve only been once to Burma (or its modern name Myanmar), a dozen
years ago, just long enough to be captivated by the place. How I wish I
had had Robert’s book in hand. The text weaves in and out of stunning
illustrations, many of them historic photographs that must have taken
years to compile, Robert’s co-author Morrison Polkinghorne is both
photographer and the book designer and he leads the eye irresistibly
from fishing boats moored peacefully in the setting sun to dinner
menus from as recently as 1972 that include long-forgotten favorites
such as lobster Thermidor and minute steak.
The historic Strand Hotel on the waterfront of Yangon sums up
the essence of the lingering colonial past. Everyone visits The Strand,
myself included, and I was transported back to my English girlhood
with the ritual of teatime. For more than 100 years, British afternoon
tea has been served in that high white salon or on the shaded veranda,
the tables set with snow-white cloths. The scones, delicate sandwiches,
little cupcakes and fruit slices are arranged “variously on classic
shiny silver tiers, and shimmering jet black lacquer work tiffin boxes.
“Tiffin” is another colonial fixture, that lingers on, both at The Strand,
and by school children and workers who daily carry stainless- or
enamelware models of this timeless “lunch box.” Burma may be a link
to the past, but the array of British colonial dishes -- the mulligatawny,
Scotch eggs, and blancmange -- is misleading. Burma has one of the
Foreword
by Anne Willan
richest culinary heritages in the world, and Robert and Morrison have
been exploring its intricacies for the last fifteen years. Today’s Burmese
cooking is delicate, with seasoned oil from cooking onion, garlic and
ginger the primary flavor, and rarely seasoned with dried spice (as in
India). Dishes embrace half a dozen other traditions, including ethnic
Burmese with some regional Shan, Mon and Rakhine specialties. Spices
from India are used, but considered rare and Burmese masala is simple
compared to the layered flavors of the Indian versions. The fiery salads
of Thailand become less assertive in Burma; Chinese inspiration is
evident particularly near the border, while a Bangladeshi influence,
rich in seafood, comes across the Bay of Bengal.
The Burma Cookbook is a treasure house of recipes, and much, much
more. When you simmer up a Burmese style biryani or a fisherman’s
stew, you will find its history and learn how it has developed into
today’s edition; and just possibly you might come across an image of
the cook stirring it up over the fire. I was delighted to find a recipe for
one of my own favorites, kedgeree. This is a country that relies on rice,
though noodles creep in too, with a backup of lentils and chickpeas.
Much of the cooking is done on the street, implying dishes-in-one such
as mixed vegetable salads, with kebabs and other nibbles, croquettes
and other deep-fried treats on little plates, chopsticks poised for action
on the side. Lots of inspiration, and temptation!
The Burma Cookbook brings the cooking and the country to life.
Burma is a beautiful country and this splendid book does it honor.
Bravo!
X XI
Founder, La Varenne Cooking School
X XI
Burma is a magical country, brilliantly captured in the words and
images of The Burma Cookbook. “If British India was the jewel in the
empire’s crown, then Burma was its treasury,” writes Robert Carmack,
and he clearly loves every kilometer of its mountains and rivers, its
glimmering temples and the peaceful, welcoming smiles of its people.
I’ve only been once to Burma (or its modern name Myanmar), a dozen
years ago, just long enough to be captivated by the place. How I wish I
had had Robert’s book in hand. The text weaves in and out of stunning
illustrations, many of them historic photographs that must have taken
years to compile, Robert’s co-author Morrison Polkinghorne is both
photographer and the book designer and he leads the eye irresistibly
from fishing boats moored peacefully in the setting sun to dinner
menus from as recently as 1972 that include long-forgotten favorites
such as lobster Thermidor and minute steak.
The historic Strand Hotel on the waterfront of Yangon sums up
the essence of the lingering colonial past. Everyone visits The Strand,
myself included, and I was transported back to my English girlhood
with the ritual of teatime. For more than 100 years, British afternoon
tea has been served in that high white salon or on the shaded veranda,
the tables set with snow-white cloths. The scones, delicate sandwiches,
little cupcakes and fruit slices are arranged “variously on classic
shiny silver tiers, and shimmering jet black lacquer work tiffin boxes.
“Tiffin” is another colonial fixture, that lingers on, both at The Strand,
and by school children and workers who daily carry stainless- or
enamelware models of this timeless “lunch box.” Burma may be a link
to the past, but the array of British colonial dishes -- the mulligatawny,
Scotch eggs, and blancmange -- is misleading. Burma has one of the
Foreword
by Anne Willan
richest culinary heritages in the world, and Robert and Morrison have
been exploring its intricacies for the last fifteen years. Today’s Burmese
cooking is delicate, with seasoned oil from cooking onion, garlic and
ginger the primary flavor, and rarely seasoned with dried spice (as in
India). Dishes embrace half a dozen other traditions, including ethnic
Burmese with some regional Shan, Mon and Rakhine specialties. Spices
from India are used, but considered rare and Burmese masala is simple
compared to the layered flavors of the Indian versions. The fiery salads
of Thailand become less assertive in Burma; Chinese inspiration is
evident particularly near the border, while a Bangladeshi influence,
rich in seafood, comes across the Bay of Bengal.
The Burma Cookbook is a treasure house of recipes, and much, much
more. When you simmer up a Burmese style biryani or a fisherman’s
stew, you will find its history and learn how it has developed into
today’s edition; and just possibly you might come across an image of
the cook stirring it up over the fire. I was delighted to find a recipe for
one of my own favorites, kedgeree. This is a country that relies on rice,
though noodles creep in too, with a backup of lentils and chickpeas.
Much of the cooking is done on the street, implying dishes-in-one such
as mixed vegetable salads, with kebabs and other nibbles, croquettes
and other deep-fried treats on little plates, chopsticks poised for action
on the side. Lots of inspiration, and temptation!
The Burma Cookbook brings the cooking and the country to life.
Burma is a beautiful country and this splendid book does it honor.
Bravo!
X XI
Founder, La Varenne Cooking School
Foreword
by Anne Willan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . x
Acknowledgments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xv
Burmese Days: An Introduction to Myanmar . . . . . . . . 14-23
The Strand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25-33
From Burma to Myanmar . . . . . . . . . . . . 34Geographical Names . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Curry Favor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37-47
A Curry Primer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38Crisp Frying Shallots, Onions & Garlic . . . . . . . . . 41Step-by-Step Myanmar Curry . . . . . . . . . . . 42Recipes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44Thanaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
Flying Fishes Play . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51-91
Fish & Seafood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53Recipes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
All Aflutter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95-111
Chicken & Duck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96Recipes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98
On the Hoof . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115-139
Beef, Lamb, Goat & Pork . . . . . . . . . . . . 117Recipes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
Staff of Life . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143-169
Rice & Wheat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144Rinsing Rice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146Step-by-Step Cooking Rice . . . . . . . . . . 146-149Step-by-Step Fried Rice . . . . . . . . . . . . 150Recipes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151Quenching Rice in Iced Water . . . . . . . . . . 153Table Etiquette . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157
Jolly Old Bean . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173-195
Pulses & Dried Beans . . . . . . . . . . . . 175Preparing Dried Pulses . . . . . . . . . . . . 176Recipes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177Fritters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189
Use Your Noodle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199-219
A Noodle Primer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201Noodles Varieties . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202Specialty Noodles . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203Mohinga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205Recipes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206How to Crisp Fry Noodles . . . . . . . . . . . 213Scott’s Market . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
Salad Days . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223-249
Vegetables & Salad . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225Blanching Vegetables . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227Fermented Tea Leaves / La Phet . . . . . . . . . . 228Recipes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231Barbecue Favorites . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247Myanmar Assar-Asa . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249
Soup Kitchen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253-271
Broths & Soups . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255Recipes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256
Pantry Preserves. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275-293
Chutneys, Condiments & Sauces . . . . . . . . . . 276Recipes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 279Sauces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286
Proof of the Pudding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297-325
Sweetmeats & Desserts . . . . . . . . . . . . 299Recipes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301Coconut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306Halwa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325
Quaffing: Libations, Brews & Beverages . . . . . . . . . . 329-351
A Tea Primer . . . . . . . . . . . . . 331-334Ordering in a Tea House . . . . . . . . . . . . 336Water Jugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 337Recipes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 340Pegu Club . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 344Wine & Myanmar Foods . . . . . . . . . . . . 350
Larder: Provisions, Equipment & Techniques . . . . . . . 329-373
Measurements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 376
Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 380
page
Table of Contents
page
Foreword
by Anne Willan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . x
Acknowledgments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xv
Burmese Days: An Introduction to Myanmar . . . . . . . . 14-23
The Strand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25-33
From Burma to Myanmar . . . . . . . . . . . . 34Geographical Names . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Curry Favor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37-47
A Curry Primer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38Crisp Frying Shallots, Onions & Garlic . . . . . . . . . 41Step-by-Step Myanmar Curry . . . . . . . . . . . 42Recipes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44Thanaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
Flying Fishes Play . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51-91
Fish & Seafood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53Recipes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
All Aflutter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95-111
Chicken & Duck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96Recipes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98
On the Hoof . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115-139
Beef, Lamb, Goat & Pork . . . . . . . . . . . . 117Recipes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
Staff of Life . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143-169
Rice & Wheat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144Rinsing Rice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146Step-by-Step Cooking Rice . . . . . . . . . . 146-149Step-by-Step Fried Rice . . . . . . . . . . . . 150Recipes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151Quenching Rice in Iced Water . . . . . . . . . . 153Table Etiquette . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157
Jolly Old Bean . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173-195
Pulses & Dried Beans . . . . . . . . . . . . 175Preparing Dried Pulses . . . . . . . . . . . . 176Recipes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177Fritters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189
Use Your Noodle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199-219
A Noodle Primer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201Noodles Varieties . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202Specialty Noodles . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203Mohinga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205Recipes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206How to Crisp Fry Noodles . . . . . . . . . . . 213Scott’s Market . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
Salad Days . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223-249
Vegetables & Salad . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225Blanching Vegetables . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227Fermented Tea Leaves / La Phet . . . . . . . . . . 228Recipes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231Barbecue Favorites . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247Myanmar Assar-Asa . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249
Soup Kitchen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253-271
Broths & Soups . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255Recipes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256
Pantry Preserves. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275-293
Chutneys, Condiments & Sauces . . . . . . . . . . 276Recipes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 279Sauces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286
Proof of the Pudding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297-325
Sweetmeats & Desserts . . . . . . . . . . . . 299Recipes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301Coconut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306Halwa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325
Quaffing: Libations, Brews & Beverages . . . . . . . . . . 329-351
A Tea Primer . . . . . . . . . . . . . 331-334Ordering in a Tea House . . . . . . . . . . . . 336Water Jugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 337Recipes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 340Pegu Club . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 344Wine & Myanmar Foods . . . . . . . . . . . . 350
Larder: Provisions, Equipment & Techniques . . . . . . . 329-373
Measurements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 376
Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 380
page
Table of Contents
page
46 47
Crumble the curry leaves, combine with the salt and grind to a powder in a
mortar and pestle or electric grinder. Pass through a coarse sieve to remove any
chaff; reserve.
Toast whole spices separately in a small frying pan over medium-high heat,
stirring constantly, until they are fragrant or begin to pop. When cool, grind
very finely; sift through a medium coarse mesh, discarding any coarse chaff.
Separately, grind cloves, chili and garlic. Combine with the toasted spices,
ground curry leaves/salt mix and turmeric. Sieve once more to thoroughly
integrate and store in a tightly sealed jar until ready to use. Makes about 11/2 to
2 cups/150-200 g.
To cook, fry a tablespoon or two of spice powder in oil for a couple minutes,
until fragrant. Then add meats, vegetables and liquid; simmer until ingredients
are tender. Coconut-based curries are cooked uncovered, lest they curdle.
Curry powder serves two goals: first to flavor food and second to mask
rancidity – the latter essential in days prior to refrigeration. It’s also claimed
spices have anti-bacterial properties which ward off spoilage.
This curry powder is typical of colonial Burma when Indian influence held
sway. Its basic composition is classic Madras and was a favorite to bottle and
cork for long treks. At the campfire, the blended dried spice mix was “fried off”
in oil before meats and vegetables were added, then the dish was finished with
coconut milk or cream.
In this recipe the addition of curry leaves, garlic and salt probably means it
originated as a French colonial version from Pondicherry. After all, the English
long looked to France in matters of taste.
Note: there is a difference between toasting dried spices (masala hmont or
garam masala) and frying spice blends (curry powder). The former is sprinkled
over the dish just prior to serving to enhance flavor. Fried spice blends flavor the
curry during cooking. Moreover, frying spice blends allows flavors to mellow
and also removes “raw” tastes. Alas, the terms are today used interchangeably in
Myanmar, leading to some confusion.
For best results use whole spices and grind them yourself; ensure they are roasted
first to achieve maximum aroma. Pre-ground spices burn easily when toasted. A
large stone mortar and pestle is essential; wooden mortars don’t suit. A small
electric coffee mill works a treat.
Colonial Curry Powderdan pauk masala
1/4 cup (5 g) dried curry leaves, firmly packed
1 tablespoon (15 ml) rock salt
2 tablespoons (30 ml) fenugreek seed
2 tablespoons (30 ml) mustard seed
1/4 cup (25 g) cumin seed
1 cup (100 g) coriander seed
2 teaspoons (10 ml) whole cloves
1 tablespoon (15 ml) Asian chili powder (or more to taste) or 2 dried long red chilies, seeded
1/4 cup (50 g) dried garlic flakes, crushed
or 2 tablespoons (30 ml) garlic powder1/4 cup (25 g)
turmeric powder, preferably alleppey
One of the defining visual features of Myanmar is the ubiquitous use of a thick cosmetic white powder called thanaka. Although sometimes ascribed to sandalwood, thanaka is made from the ground bark of several tree species. Used by both men and especially women, it is both a natural sun protection (akin to zinc cream) and also provides cooling properties.
Thanaka
46 47
Crumble the curry leaves, combine with the salt and grind to a powder in a
mortar and pestle or electric grinder. Pass through a coarse sieve to remove any
chaff; reserve.
Toast whole spices separately in a small frying pan over medium-high heat,
stirring constantly, until they are fragrant or begin to pop. When cool, grind
very finely; sift through a medium coarse mesh, discarding any coarse chaff.
Separately, grind cloves, chili and garlic. Combine with the toasted spices,
ground curry leaves/salt mix and turmeric. Sieve once more to thoroughly
integrate and store in a tightly sealed jar until ready to use. Makes about 11/2 to
2 cups/150-200 g.
To cook, fry a tablespoon or two of spice powder in oil for a couple minutes,
until fragrant. Then add meats, vegetables and liquid; simmer until ingredients
are tender. Coconut-based curries are cooked uncovered, lest they curdle.
Curry powder serves two goals: first to flavor food and second to mask
rancidity – the latter essential in days prior to refrigeration. It’s also claimed
spices have anti-bacterial properties which ward off spoilage.
This curry powder is typical of colonial Burma when Indian influence held
sway. Its basic composition is classic Madras and was a favorite to bottle and
cork for long treks. At the campfire, the blended dried spice mix was “fried off”
in oil before meats and vegetables were added, then the dish was finished with
coconut milk or cream.
In this recipe the addition of curry leaves, garlic and salt probably means it
originated as a French colonial version from Pondicherry. After all, the English
long looked to France in matters of taste.
Note: there is a difference between toasting dried spices (masala hmont or
garam masala) and frying spice blends (curry powder). The former is sprinkled
over the dish just prior to serving to enhance flavor. Fried spice blends flavor the
curry during cooking. Moreover, frying spice blends allows flavors to mellow
and also removes “raw” tastes. Alas, the terms are today used interchangeably in
Myanmar, leading to some confusion.
For best results use whole spices and grind them yourself; ensure they are roasted
first to achieve maximum aroma. Pre-ground spices burn easily when toasted. A
large stone mortar and pestle is essential; wooden mortars don’t suit. A small
electric coffee mill works a treat.
Colonial Curry Powderdan pauk masala
1/4 cup (5 g) dried curry leaves, firmly packed
1 tablespoon (15 ml) rock salt
2 tablespoons (30 ml) fenugreek seed
2 tablespoons (30 ml) mustard seed
1/4 cup (25 g) cumin seed
1 cup (100 g) coriander seed
2 teaspoons (10 ml) whole cloves
1 tablespoon (15 ml) Asian chili powder (or more to taste) or 2 dried long red chilies, seeded
1/4 cup (50 g) dried garlic flakes, crushed
or 2 tablespoons (30 ml) garlic powder1/4 cup (25 g)
turmeric powder, preferably alleppey
One of the defining visual features of Myanmar is the ubiquitous use of a thick cosmetic white powder called thanaka. Although sometimes ascribed to sandalwood, thanaka is made from the ground bark of several tree species. Used by both men and especially women, it is both a natural sun protection (akin to zinc cream) and also provides cooling properties.
Thanaka
216 217
Put the chicken breast in a small saucepan and pour boiling stock or water atop.
Over medium low heat, simmer the chicken till just done – 5-7 minutes. Remove
from water and shred the meat; reserve both the meat and broth separately.
(Alternatively, use left-over cooked chicken such as a supermarket roast, skin
removed.)
Meanwhile, heat oil for shallow pan frying or deep frying, ensuring that the
oil comes no more than 1/3 up the side of the pan, lest it overflow. Combine the
two rice flours, and dredge the pork slices. Fry a few pieces at a time until crispy
– 2-3 minutes. Drain on absorbent paper and set aside.
To make the dressing whisk together the vinegar, garlic, ginger and 1 tablespoon
(15 ml) of the chili oil and flakes. Add the preserved tofu if using, pressing to
mash it into the dressing, followed by soy sauce and salted soybeans. (If the
beans are whole instead of a paste, mash as well.) Mix well.
Plunge noodles into a large pot of boiling water and cook for about 4 minutes
or as per packet. Drain and toss the chickpea flour plus chili powder with
the cooked noodles, followed by pickled mustard, carrots and dressing. Cut the
fresh coriander/cilantro into 2 inch/5 cm sprigs; add. At the last minute, toss in
cooked meats and sprouts with additional fried chili flakes on the side. Taste for
seasoning and garnish with lime wedges. Serve at room temperature in summer,
or in colder climes serve in individual bowls ladled with a little hot stock to
moisten. Serves 6
These Up-Country noodles are typical festival fare, sold at stands around the
showground. Vary the specific sprouts according to market availability, although
the combination of crisp bean sprouts and tender onion shoots makes a terrific
flavor combination. Salted soy beans (paste or sauce) and fermented tofu are
available in Chinese Asian markets, often in bottles. Both are very pungent and
briny. Chinese pickled mustard (actually a cabbage) often comes in plastic tetra
packs, but sometimes direct from vats. Or better yet, prepare Salty Pickle (page
283) and use in place of the pickled mustard here.
Mandalay Festival Noodlesmyee-shae
1 lb (500 g) skinless and boneless chicken breast
About 1-2 cups (250-500 ml) stock or water, boiling
Vegetable oil, for frying1/4 cup (30 g) sticky
(glutinous) rice flour1/2 cup (65 g) plain rice
flour1/2 lb (250 g) pork loin, sliced
into thin strips
2 tablespoon (30 ml) white vinegar
2 garlic cloves, minced1/2 inch (1.2 cm) knob fresh
ginger, grated
1 tablespoon (15 ml) chili flakes in oil (Chili Fry, page 292)
1 tablespoon (15 ml) fermented tofu (optional)
1 tablespoon (15 ml) dark soy sauce
1 tablespoon (15 ml) salted soy beans
7 oz (200 g) packet rice sticks
2 tablespoons (30 ml) chickpea flour, (besan/gram) roasted
1-2 teaspoons (5-10 ml) Asian chili powder or hot paprika
1/2 cup (85 g) coarsely chopped pickled mustard leaves or Salty Pickles (page 283)
1 carrot, peeled and shredded1/2 bunch (50 g) fresh
coriander (cilantro) sprigs
1 cup (75 g) bean sprouts 1/2 punnet onion spouts
1-2 teaspoons (5-10 ml) freshly ground pepper
1-2 teaspoons (5-10 ml) salt, to taste
lime wedges, to garnish
216 217
Put the chicken breast in a small saucepan and pour boiling stock or water atop.
Over medium low heat, simmer the chicken till just done – 5-7 minutes. Remove
from water and shred the meat; reserve both the meat and broth separately.
(Alternatively, use left-over cooked chicken such as a supermarket roast, skin
removed.)
Meanwhile, heat oil for shallow pan frying or deep frying, ensuring that the
oil comes no more than 1/3 up the side of the pan, lest it overflow. Combine the
two rice flours, and dredge the pork slices. Fry a few pieces at a time until crispy
– 2-3 minutes. Drain on absorbent paper and set aside.
To make the dressing whisk together the vinegar, garlic, ginger and 1 tablespoon
(15 ml) of the chili oil and flakes. Add the preserved tofu if using, pressing to
mash it into the dressing, followed by soy sauce and salted soybeans. (If the
beans are whole instead of a paste, mash as well.) Mix well.
Plunge noodles into a large pot of boiling water and cook for about 4 minutes
or as per packet. Drain and toss the chickpea flour plus chili powder with
the cooked noodles, followed by pickled mustard, carrots and dressing. Cut the
fresh coriander/cilantro into 2 inch/5 cm sprigs; add. At the last minute, toss in
cooked meats and sprouts with additional fried chili flakes on the side. Taste for
seasoning and garnish with lime wedges. Serve at room temperature in summer,
or in colder climes serve in individual bowls ladled with a little hot stock to
moisten. Serves 6
These Up-Country noodles are typical festival fare, sold at stands around the
showground. Vary the specific sprouts according to market availability, although
the combination of crisp bean sprouts and tender onion shoots makes a terrific
flavor combination. Salted soy beans (paste or sauce) and fermented tofu are
available in Chinese Asian markets, often in bottles. Both are very pungent and
briny. Chinese pickled mustard (actually a cabbage) often comes in plastic tetra
packs, but sometimes direct from vats. Or better yet, prepare Salty Pickle (page
283) and use in place of the pickled mustard here.
Mandalay Festival Noodlesmyee-shae
1 lb (500 g) skinless and boneless chicken breast
About 1-2 cups (250-500 ml) stock or water, boiling
Vegetable oil, for frying1/4 cup (30 g) sticky
(glutinous) rice flour1/2 cup (65 g) plain rice
flour1/2 lb (250 g) pork loin, sliced
into thin strips
2 tablespoon (30 ml) white vinegar
2 garlic cloves, minced1/2 inch (1.2 cm) knob fresh
ginger, grated
1 tablespoon (15 ml) chili flakes in oil (Chili Fry, page 292)
1 tablespoon (15 ml) fermented tofu (optional)
1 tablespoon (15 ml) dark soy sauce
1 tablespoon (15 ml) salted soy beans
7 oz (200 g) packet rice sticks
2 tablespoons (30 ml) chickpea flour, (besan/gram) roasted
1-2 teaspoons (5-10 ml) Asian chili powder or hot paprika
1/2 cup (85 g) coarsely chopped pickled mustard leaves or Salty Pickles (page 283)
1 carrot, peeled and shredded1/2 bunch (50 g) fresh
coriander (cilantro) sprigs
1 cup (75 g) bean sprouts 1/2 punnet onion spouts
1-2 teaspoons (5-10 ml) freshly ground pepper
1-2 teaspoons (5-10 ml) salt, to taste
lime wedges, to garnish
246 247
Char-grilled foods are popular accompaniments at Myanmar beer “stations.”
Typically unrefrigerated cabinets line the footpath outside a shop, and imbibers
pick and choose among the selection, such as whole fish, sausages or dried meats.
But it’s the simplicity of vegetables that excel.
Grilled Lady’s Fingers (Okra) / yone pa tae thee a-kin
Soak wooden skewers in water to prevent charring. Skewer 4 or 5 okra crosswise
on a stick; repeat with a parallel skewer. Brush lightly with fish sauce and oil
and cook on the barbecue or under an oven broiler/grill about 8 inches/20 cm
from the heat. Turn occasionally, until just softened – about 5 minutes. Sprinkle
with salt and freshly ground pepper.
Charred Corn with Lemon
pyaung phoo in nint than pae yo thee
A typical beer snack, and perfect for the barbecue. Shuck
fresh ears of corn. Brush lightly with oil and cook over coals
or under an oven broiler / grill about 8 inches/20 cm from
the heat. Turn occasionally, until lightly blackened on all
sides. Use a knife to cut the corn from the cob, sprinkle with
salt and a pinch of Asian chili powder. Squeeze with fresh lemon
or lime and serve.
Skewered Mushrooms / mho kin
Clean button mushrooms (page 365) and skewer them on sticks; brush lightly
with oil. Cook on the barbecue, or under an oven broiler/grill about 8 inches/20
cm from heat turning often – 3-4 minutes total. Sprinkle with salt and pepper
and serve with chili sauce.
Grilled Quail Egg / ngone au kin
Fresh quail eggs in the shell, as well as cooked and shelled in a can, are available
at Asian markets. If fresh, merely boil for about 3 minutes in gently simmering
water, cool and peel. Canned eggs are drained and gently rinsed. Skewer 3 or 4
eggs per stick, brush with seasoned oil and merely re-heat. Sprinkle with Asian
chili powder and salt.
Grilled Bean Curd / pae pyar kin
Use hard bean curd, cut into 1 inch/2.5 cm pieces, and thread onto
skewers. Brush lightly with oil and sprinkle with Asian chili
powder and freshly ground pepper. Grill for a minute or so on
each side, or until hot throughout. Sprinkle lightly with salt.
Barbecue Favorites
What! beer manufactured in Rangoon? Yes: and very
good beer too, in so far as colour, flavor, and creaming
qualities are concerned. The ingredients employed in
the manufacture of the beverage are brought together
from various sources: sugar from Penang -- for
malt does not seem to be deemed necessary; hops
from English, – it may be from some of those rich
and beautiful field along with the railway runs, in
the vicinity of Canterbury and of Maidstone. Yeast once
“started.” propagates itself rapidly on the spot; and isinglass
where with to clarify.
-- Charles Alexander Gordon, Our Trip to Burmah, With
Notes on that Country (1875)
246 247
Char-grilled foods are popular accompaniments at Myanmar beer “stations.”
Typically unrefrigerated cabinets line the footpath outside a shop, and imbibers
pick and choose among the selection, such as whole fish, sausages or dried meats.
But it’s the simplicity of vegetables that excel.
Grilled Lady’s Fingers (Okra) / yone pa tae thee a-kin
Soak wooden skewers in water to prevent charring. Skewer 4 or 5 okra crosswise
on a stick; repeat with a parallel skewer. Brush lightly with fish sauce and oil
and cook on the barbecue or under an oven broiler/grill about 8 inches/20 cm
from the heat. Turn occasionally, until just softened – about 5 minutes. Sprinkle
with salt and freshly ground pepper.
Charred Corn with Lemon
pyaung phoo in nint than pae yo thee
A typical beer snack, and perfect for the barbecue. Shuck
fresh ears of corn. Brush lightly with oil and cook over coals
or under an oven broiler / grill about 8 inches/20 cm from
the heat. Turn occasionally, until lightly blackened on all
sides. Use a knife to cut the corn from the cob, sprinkle with
salt and a pinch of Asian chili powder. Squeeze with fresh lemon
or lime and serve.
Skewered Mushrooms / mho kin
Clean button mushrooms (page 365) and skewer them on sticks; brush lightly
with oil. Cook on the barbecue, or under an oven broiler/grill about 8 inches/20
cm from heat turning often – 3-4 minutes total. Sprinkle with salt and pepper
and serve with chili sauce.
Grilled Quail Egg / ngone au kin
Fresh quail eggs in the shell, as well as cooked and shelled in a can, are available
at Asian markets. If fresh, merely boil for about 3 minutes in gently simmering
water, cool and peel. Canned eggs are drained and gently rinsed. Skewer 3 or 4
eggs per stick, brush with seasoned oil and merely re-heat. Sprinkle with Asian
chili powder and salt.
Grilled Bean Curd / pae pyar kin
Use hard bean curd, cut into 1 inch/2.5 cm pieces, and thread onto
skewers. Brush lightly with oil and sprinkle with Asian chili
powder and freshly ground pepper. Grill for a minute or so on
each side, or until hot throughout. Sprinkle lightly with salt.
Barbecue Favorites
What! beer manufactured in Rangoon? Yes: and very
good beer too, in so far as colour, flavor, and creaming
qualities are concerned. The ingredients employed in
the manufacture of the beverage are brought together
from various sources: sugar from Penang -- for
malt does not seem to be deemed necessary; hops
from English, – it may be from some of those rich
and beautiful field along with the railway runs, in
the vicinity of Canterbury and of Maidstone. Yeast once
“started.” propagates itself rapidly on the spot; and isinglass
where with to clarify.
-- Charles Alexander Gordon, Our Trip to Burmah, With
Notes on that Country (1875)
Pantry PreservesChutneys, Condiments & Sauces
“Several of the recipes give ingredients which come from tins; these may be useful in
jungle life.”
-- M. Fraser, The Burma Guides Cookery Book (1932)
Pantry PreservesChutneys, Condiments & Sauces
“Several of the recipes give ingredients which come from tins; these may be useful in
jungle life.”
-- M. Fraser, The Burma Guides Cookery Book (1932)
326 327
326 327
374 375
374 375