The Definitive Guide To House Training Your Dog

7/30/2019 The Definitive Guide To House Training Your Dog

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House Training

Your Dog

The Definitive GuideComplements of

AmarilloDryCarpet.com(806) 553-3077


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Table of Contents

WelcomeTo Dog Own ershi p! ____________________________________________ 6

Basi c Hou se training ___________________________________________________ 7

Chapter 1 - Gett ing Started W ith Yo ur Do g _________________________________ 8Before Bringing Your Dog Home _______________________________________8Start Out Right _____________________________________________________9Think About Your Home & Your Dog ____________________________________9The First Few Hours At Home ________________________________________11The First Night At Home_____________________________________________11Establish A Routine ________________________________________________11

Chapter 2 Hou se train ing Metho ds ______________________________________ 13Seven Pointers To Successful House training ____________________________13

Outdoor Training, The Basic Method ___________________________________14Advantages Of The Outdoor Method ___________________________________16Disadvantages Of The Outdoor Method: ________________________________17

House training On Leash _____________________________________________ 17

Paper Training _____________________________________________________18Tips For Paper Training _____________________________________________20Advantages & Uses Of Paper Training _________________________________20Disadvantages To Paper Training _____________________________________20

Wee Pads Instead Of Paper___________________________________________21Puppy Training Pads _______________________________________________22Adult Dog Training Pads ____________________________________________22Replacement Pads_________________________________________________23

Diaper Training_____________________________________________________23

Puppy & Senior Dog Diapers _________________________________________23Litter Box Training __________________________________________________25

Advantages & Uses Of Litter Box Training: ______________________________26Disadvantages To Litter Box Training: __________________________________27

Litter Box Training For Adult Dogs ____________________________________27

Crate Training______________________________________________________28Choosing A Crate__________________________________________________29Introducing Your Dog To The Crate ____________________________________30Overcoming Crate Resistance ________________________________________31Teaching Your Dog to Stay in the Crate_________________________________ 32Preparing To Leave Your Dog In The Crate______________________________33

Using The Crate For Sleeping At Night _________________________________33Tips For Crate Training: _____________________________________________34Advantages & Uses Of Crate Training: _________________________________35Disadvantages Of Crate Training: _____________________________________35

Clicker Training ____________________________________________________ 36

Indoor House training________________________________________________36

Training To Eliminate On Command ___________________________________38

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Housebreaking Commands___________________________________________38Positive Commands ________________________________________________39Positive Reinforcement _____________________________________________39House training Schedule ByAge_______________________________________40

Chapter 3 - Kno wing Yo urDogs Sig nals _________________________________ 43Understanding YourDogs Body Language______________________________43Using A Bell ______________________________________________________43Teaching Your Dog To Bark__________________________________________44Tips & Hints To House training Your Dog________________________________44

Chapter 4 - Ac cid ents Wh ile Hous e trainin g You r Dog _______________________46

Accident Or On Purpose? ____________________________________________46What To Do About It?_______________________________________________46How To Clean Up__________________________________________________47To Punish Or Not To Punish _________________________________________47

Preventions Of Repeat Accidents _______________________________________ 48

Chapter 5 - Special Situ ation s In Hou se trainin g ____________________________49Owners Work All Day _______________________________________________49Submissive Urination _______________________________________________50Excitement Urination _______________________________________________52Marking _________________________________________________________53Separation Anxiety _________________________________________________55Soiling The Crate __________________________________________________57

Chapter 6 - Class B y Class & B reed By B reed _____________________________59

About Fences _____________________________________________________59

Scent Hounds 60

Sight Hounds ______________________________________________________ 60

Pointers & Setters __________________________________________________61

Terriers ___________________________________________________________ 61

Retrievers _________________________________________________________62Late Maturers _____________________________________________________62

Toy Breeds ________________________________________________________ 62

Specific Breeds Of Interest For House training ___________________________63Affenpinscher _____________________________________________________63Afghan Hound ____________________________________________________63American Bloodhound ______________________________________________63American Blue Gascon Hound________________________________________64

American Foxhound ________________________________________________64Basenji __________________________________________________________ 64Basset Hound_____________________________________________________64Beagle __________________________________________________________64Black & Tan Coonhound ____________________________________________64Bloodhound ______________________________________________________64Border Collie _____________________________________________________65Border Terrier_____________________________________________________65

Borzoi ___________________________________________________________65Bulldog __________________________________________________________65

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Bull Terrier _______________________________________________________65Cairn Terrier ______________________________________________________66Cavalier King Charles Spaniel ________________________________________66Chihuahua _______________________________________________________66Chinese Crested __________________________________________________67Chinese Shar-Pei __________________________________________________67

Dachshund _______________________________________________________67Dalmatian ________________________________________________________67English Foxhound _________________________________________________68English Toy Spaniel ________________________________________________68Finnish Spitz______________________________________________________68French Bulldog ____________________________________________________68German Short-haired Pointer _________________________________________68German Wirehaired Pointer __________________________________________68Glen of Imaal Terrier _______________________________________________69Gordon Setter_____________________________________________________69Greyhound _______________________________________________________69

Harrier __________________________________________________________69Ibizan Hound _____________________________________________________69Irish Setter _______________________________________________________69Irish Terrier_______________________________________________________70Irish Wolfhound ___________________________________________________70Italian Greyhound__________________________________________________70Lhasa Apso ______________________________________________________71Norwegian Elkhound _______________________________________________71Otterhound _______________________________________________________71Petit Basset Griffon Vendeen_________________________________________71Pharoah Hound ___________________________________________________71Plott ____________________________________________________________71Pointer __________________________________________________________71

Redbone Coonhound _______________________________________________71

Rhodesian Ridgeback ______________________________________________71Rottweiler ________________________________________________________72Saluki ___________________________________________________________ 72Scottish Deerhound ________________________________________________72Shih Tzu _________________________________________________________72Siberian Husky ____________________________________________________72Skye Terrier ______________________________________________________ 73Soft-Coated Wheaten Terrier _________________________________________73Spinone Italiano ___________________________________________________73Standard Schnauzer _______________________________________________73Tibetan Mastiff ____________________________________________________ 73Tibetan Spaniel ___________________________________________________74

Weimaraner ______________________________________________________74West Highland White Terrier _________________________________________74Whippet _________________________________________________________ 74Yorkshire Terrier __________________________________________________74

Chapter 7 - Health -Related Pro blem s _____________________________________ 75

Congenital Problems ________________________________________________75Ectopic Ureters____________________________________________________75Juvenile Renal Dysplasia ____________________________________________75

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Urethral Sphincter Mechanism Incompetence ____________________________76Patent Urachus ___________________________________________________76Urethral Diverticulum _______________________________________________76

Diseases and Medical Problems_______________________________________77Bladder Stones____________________________________________________ 77Bloat ____________________________________________________________77Cushings Syndrome _______________________________________________78Diabetes _________________________________________________________78Nerve Injury Or Trauma _____________________________________________79Spaying Incontinence_______________________________________________79Tumor___________________________________________________________79Urethral Obstruction ________________________________________________80Urethral Prolapse __________________________________________________80Urinary Tract Infection ______________________________________________80

Medication Related Problems _________________________________________81

Old-Age Problems __________________________________________________ 82Dribbling Urine ____________________________________________________83

Unable To Urinate _________________________________________________83Kidney Failure ____________________________________________________83

Glossary _________________________________________________________84Learning About Your Dog____________________________________________86Various Helpful Pet Web Sites ________________________________________93

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Welcome To Dog Ownership!

Dear Pet Owner, Puppy Lover & Your Pets Best Friend,

This may be your first dog or your twenty-first dog, but it doesnt matter you still haveto house train him and no two dogs are the same when it comes to house training . Evenif he is the same breed as all the other dogs youve had, he will have his ownpersonality quirks.And that may be the reason you are reading this book.

If this is your first dog (or puppy), you and your dog - have lots to learn, but dont bealarmed. Neither of you can learn it all at once. Take it a step at a time and enjoy eachother throughout the process.

Some breeds are easy to house train as they dont like for their living quarters tobe messy or smelly or they really like to please their owners . Other breeds are moredifficult to house train. Others may take a special type of training. However, withpatience and persistence, nearly every dog can be house trained.

It is important to learn as much about the breed of your dog as you can. Talk to otherowners, veterinarians, breeders, etc. and read books about the breed. If your dog is amixture of breeds, learn about all the breeds you can identify in your dog.

Usually the traits that make a dog easy or hard to train are related to the breed. Bytalking to a variety of people who have worked with that breed, you can learn tips andpointers and tricks to help you with house training, obedience training, car training,orwhatever you desire to train your dog.

It is always easier to ESTABLISH GOOD habits from the beginning than it is to BREAKBAD habits later. If you have a puppy, this book will help you start your puppy with good

habits. However, if you have an adult dog who has established some bad habits, you areto be commended for being brave enough to give him a good home and the love hedeserves and you will find many helpful ideas in this book as you seek to help him be the good dog he should be.

Just a note: You may have gotten a puppy or you may have gotten a dog from a shelter,but whatever dog you have will be referred to as he, him, her, she, your dog, your friend, or your companion in this book.Also, this book assumes the dog will spend the majorityof his time in your home and that is why you are house training him. If he is going tobe an outdoor dog then house training will be much harder to accomplish as it willnot be habitual for him.

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Basic House tra in ing

What Is House training?

House training refers mainly to training your dog to potty (pee and poop) inan appropriate place at an appropriate time. It assumes that house manners willinclude pottying outdoors, on paper, or in a litter box, whichever method you havetaught yourdog. If you read older literature on house training, the term youmay see ishousebreaking which meant to break the dog of pottying in the house.

The information in this e-book applies to a puppy or an older dog. If a puppy stays withher mother until the age of 8 weeks, she will learn a lot about cleanliness and will cometo your home happy and well-adjusted and ready to want to please you.

If you have a new puppy, you can establish good habits from the beginning. If you arere-homing a dog, start out as if he has never been house trained and followthe appropriate schedule. If he was well house trained previously, it wont take him

long to apply what he knows.

However, if he was never house trained or the previous owners got rid of him becausehe continued to have problems, you will need to be very consistent and patient forseveral months. Hang in there; it is worth it!

Start at the beginning since Chapter 1 discusses how to get started with your dog, thesteps to house training, daily schedules for house training dogs of various ages, andthensome tips and hints to house training.

Chapter 2 covers the pros and cons of outdoor house training and variationson house training paper training, wee pads training, diaper training, litter or box

training. It also discusses crate training because it applies to all the methods and isuseful for solving problems that may arise. The use of clicker training is alsoexplained in this chapter along with Indoor house training and training to eliminate oncommands.

Chapter 3 stresses on the body language of your pet, learn how to teach your dog tobark or use a bell before your dog wants to eliminate.

Chapter 4 helps you deal with yourdogs accidents. Since all dogs have accidents, youwill want to know how best to clean them up and prevent future accidents.

Chapter 5 will help you with special situations you may encounter whether it is asituation dependent on you, the owner, like being at work all day (or longer) or it is a

situation created by your dog like submission urination, marking, and other problems.

If you still have some problems or, if later, your dog develops some problems, thenchapters 6-7 will be valuable.

Chapter 6 relates various breeds and problems associated with those breeds. This maybe helpful even if your dog is a mix of breeds.

Chapter 7 explains some health-related issues and how they relate to house training.

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Chapter 1 -Getting Started With Your Dog

Before Bringing Your Dog Home

You are excited because you have found the perfect dog for you and now you arebringing him/her home. Congratulations! And give yourself a pat on the back since youare doing your homework by reading this! (Even if you arealready home with your new friend, it is still early in yourrelationship, so good job.)

It is important that every member of your family (includingyoung children, children at college, and those that are inand out on a fairly regular basis) knows, understands andfollows the rules for your dog.

They also need to know and follow all your establishedroutines with your dog. Consistency is a key to successfulhouse training.

If you already have your dog at home and have had himthere for several weeks, thats okay. Read this sectionanyway as there is things you can still initiate that will be very helpful.

If you havent picked up your new friend yet, there are some things youll want to takewith you:

An Old Bath Towel

You can put this on the car seat for the dog to sit on and use it to clean up anyaccidents.

Collar & Leash

A nylon slip collar large enough to go over the dogs head and a six-foot leash (leather ornylon) or a retractable leash

You need some way to control your dog and keep it close to you when it needs to gopotty or when it is walking to the car.

Nylon slip collars are safe and not overly harsh for all sizes of dogs and puppies. Theyare very easy to use. All you do is drop the collar through the ring at one end of thecollar this becomes the live ring. It is better to get a slip collar that is too large thanone that is snug or too small.

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Travel Basics

If you will be traveling more than two hours to get home, a dog bowl and a bottle of waterwill be helpful. If you will be traveling overnight with your new (or new-to-you) dog, youwill need a second dish and you will need to plan to purchase whatever food your doghas been eating so that you can feed your dog.

You will need to stop every two hours and get your dog out of the car on his leashattached to the slip collar and walk him around in the grass at a rest stop or park oroffice park. He will need to stretch his legs and he may need to potty fairly often. Thisshould prevent, or at least limit, accidents in the car.

It will be best if you teach him to sit on the seat on the old towel rather than in your lap. Ifyou have a bench seat, he can have his towel next to you . That way, if you need to takehim to the veterinarian alone, he will not feel he has to sit in your lap. He will know fromthe beginning that he can sit by himself and feel safe and secure.

If he is lonely or whimpering, you can put your hand on him. That will help him feel morelike he is with his siblings. Remember they would not pat him; they would just lie on ornext to him.

Start Out Right

Before you take the dog to your car, put the slip collar and leash on it and walk it aroundin a grassy area so it has a chance to potty.

You might even start using his name and a cue word to mean now is the time to gopotty such as business,potty,hurryup,etc.

There is no generally accepted word for this, so as long as you use a word that does not mean something else later in your dogs training, any word you use will work. Simply saythe word firmly and let the dog find the right spot by sniffing.

If the dog does not do anything right away, move a few feet and repeat the word. If thedog does not urinate or defecate in a few minutes, assume he does not need to doanything right then.

Think About Your Home & Your Dog

You need to think about some things before you have your new dog at home . These willhave a bearing on how easy it is to house train your dog and how many accidentsyour dog may have in the next few weeks. At the very least, they will affect how muchwork you will have in cleaning up after your dog and how much sleep you will get.

Are there rooms the dog will never be allowed in?

Are there others you will not want the dog in until it is house trained?

How will you keep him out of those rooms?

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What about gates? How about an exercise pen?

It is best to limit the dog to rooms where the floor is easily cleaned (like a kitchen,bathroom or utility room with tile type of flooring) while it is awake for the first few daysuntil you understand how accident-prone it is. Some people ban their dogs from a formalliving room or an office where clients are entertained.

Where will the dog be sleeping?

Options include a bathroom or utility room or some other room with the door closed, in a family members bedroom, in the family/living room, or in the garage.Then there is the question of whether it will be sleeping in a crate, on the floor, in its own bed, or on the bed you or a family member sleeps in.

Remember that if the dog is a puppy, it has only slept with its mother and siblings so it is used to being surrounded by warm bodies and beating hearts.

Therefore, it will be happier and sleep better if that situation is simulated by a soft bedand ticking alarm clock if it isnt sleeping with you or a family member.

Where will the dog be eating and drinking?

He will be happier eating near the area where you either fix food or eat preferably notthe dining room, but perhaps at one end of the kitchen or in a utility room next to thekitchen.

Your life will be easier if his dishes are on a floor that is easy to clean. You might alsoconsider having him eat in a room close to the door he will be using to go outdoors topotty.

By the way, his dishes should be ceramic or stainless steel . Straight-sided dishes will beeasier for him than bowl-shaped.

Where do you want your new dog to potty?

The ideal place is outdoors, but some people like to train a dog to use newspapers or alitter box. You need to identify the EXACT 2-foot by 3-foot area (or 3-foot by 5-foot area if your dog will be a large dog when fully grown) that you want your dog to use as hisPOTTY PLACE. This will be referred to as his pottyplace throughout this book.

If it is a cold and snowy winter when you get your dog, you may need to train him tonewspapers until the weather is better and he can go out. If you live in an apartment orcondominium, simply letting him out will not work, so you will be walking him severaltimes a day. Each of these methods will be fully addressed in the pages that follow.

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The First Few Hours At Home

When you get home with your dog, get him out of the car on a leash and walk himaround the yard. Let him sniff. Let him wet as often as he wants as he is marking histerritory.

However, if he marks flowers or bushes or wanders into areas where you do not wanthim, jerk him back sharply about 6-8 inches and say no in a firm voice.

Do not let the dog step out of the boundaries of the yard. When he gets to theboundaries, jerk him back and say no, boundary.Start using a cue word or phrase to mean gopotty. When he does it, praise him.

After about 15 minutes, take him into the house, saying to him, Lets go into the housein a very happy voice. This will set the stage for his coming into the house any time yousay house to him.

This is the routine you will use with your dog every couple of hours during the day

every day for the first 7-10 days. See Chapter 5 if this will be difficult for you to do.

At least once a day, also walk him around the yard within a couple of feet of theboundaries and every time he starts to cross the boundary, say no,boundary and jerkhim back. This sets the stage for his not leaving the yard. With many breeds this is allthat will be needed, but there are breeds that this will not affect.

During the first month, DO NOT:

Let the dog out of the house by himself.

Take the dog outside of a fence without a slip collar and leash on him.

The First Night At Home

The first night you will need to take your dog out for one last walk just before you go tobed. Establish him in his sleeping spot and set your alarm for no more than five hours . Ifyour dog is a young puppy, four hours would be best.

When the alarm goes off, get up and take your dog for another walk and then put himback to bed. Do not play with him or talk to him about anything but pottying.

Repeat the process in four more hours. It may take a little while to get him settled downand back to sleep, but he will soon learn to go to sleep when put to bed and to go potty ifhe needs to when you walk him.

Establish A Routine

The most important thing for your dog in learning anything you want him to learn isestablishing a routine and being consistent in your expectations of your dog. The next

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pages will show you how to establish that routine and give you specific how-toinstructions on house training.

Whether your dog is a tiny 4-week-old puppy or a rescued dog that has been abused, aroutine will help to put her at ease and know what to expect.

Along with a routine, remember to be calm and patient. Everything is new to your dog.Shouting or screaming or exhibiting anger will only make your problems worse, so take adeep breath andstart over.

When there are accidents, make the assumption that it is more your fault than your dogsfault. If you watch your dog closely, you will be able to tell when she needs to go to herpotty place. She will show a posture of going potty or she will sniff or dig lightly or circleor run to the door and back to you. If you do not respond to those things by getting her toher potty place, then you will have an accident to clean up.

The easy way to look at the routine you need to establish is that any time there is abreak during the day or a change of direction in your dogs day, take the dog to his pottyplace.

The five keys to your success are:

When doggie gets up, take him to the potty place.

Feed doggie on a regular schedule which will eventually be twice a day, about10-12 hours apart. After doggie eats or drinks anything, take him to the pottyplace.

After doggie plays or exercises, take him to the potty place.

Withhold water for two to four hours before doggie goes to bed.

Just prior to going to bed, take him to the potty place.

A more detailed schedule will be shown for various ages of dogs in the following pages.There will also be suggestions for variations.

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Chapter 2House training Methods

All dogs need to be house trained and, basically, all dogs can be house trained. Ifyou get a very young puppy, you may have to wait a few weeks before his bodyallows complete house training. If you get a previously abused or neglected dog, it may

take a while for him to fully understand what is expected of him.

There are three primary methods of house training:

The Outdoor Method often referred to as the basic direct method,

The Paper Method, and the

Litter Box Method.

Each method refers to where the dog potties (not how you train him since that is fairly

uniform).

Some people refer to the crate method; however, the crate is used as a holding orrestraining mechanism, not a place for pottying or for punishment. Therefore, thecrate can be used with any of the three methods.

Some people use another method, the clicker method. Here again, it is a variation to usealong with the three methods. In the clicker method, instead of a word or phrase to tellthe dog to gopotty and a word of praise after he potties, a clicker and a treat are usedto positively reinforce his correct behavior.

The next page is one of the most important pages you will read. Refer to it often duringthe house training process. If necessary, print it and post it where you will see it often.

Seven Pointers To Successful House training

Establish a Potty Place. Decide exactly where you want your dog to potty. It can be acorner of your yard or it can be an area of grass (or cement or blacktop) that you choose at your apartment or condo complex. Always walk your dog to that place. If you willeventually be letting him out to go potty, make sure your yard is safely fenced somebreeds need a 6-foot secure fence.

Choose a cue word, which will mean go to the potty now to both you and yourdog.Various words or short phrases include business,do it,potty,hurryupor someother word or words that are not used in other parts of training. (See the Glossary.)

Always say this when you want your dog to potty. Once the dog is house trained, hewillusually tell you when he needs to potty rather than you telling him when to potty.

Live by a schedule until the dog is house trained. Create a schedule accordingto yourdogs age and your familys schedules. By scheduling feeding and exercise aswell

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as potty breaks, you will help your dog know what to expect and learn to be able to potty only when you can take him out or let him out to do so. Use this routine every single daywithout variation.

Be persistent and patient. Not all dogs learn house training in a week. In fact,

many take several weeks. So keep working with your dog. The effort is wellworthwhile. Beconsistent; dontrelax the expectations or routine.

Be thorough with cleaning up. If you dont quickly and adequately clean up placeswhere your dog has had an accident, he will go back to those spots again. It is best toclean up without your dog watching.

Praise your dog every time he does the right thing in the right place. Quietly butenthusiastically praise your dog each time he potties in the right place at the right time.Positive training (reinforcement) is much more effective with dogs than punishment.

Train your dog to use a signal to let you know he needs to go potty.That signal canbe a bell he can ring (hung from the doorknob) or can be a way he sits in front of you orlooks at you. Some authors recommend clicker training, but that puts you (theowner/trainer) in charge of when the dog potties and does not allow him to tell you whenhe needs to potty.

Outdo or Training, The Basic Method

The ideal house training method is the outdoor method. That means that the dogdoes all of his business outdoors from the beginning. It isalso referred to as the direct method of house training.

Anyone anywhere can use the outdoor method.Theoretically, anywhere the dog poops, the poop shouldbe picked up whether it is a designated area of yourfenced back yard or in the grass (on cement orpavement) of your apartment or condo complex. Whiledogs prefer to potty on grass when they are outdoors,they can be trained to potty on various types ofpavement or on gravel or bare dirt instead.

Once your dog is outdoor method house trained, hewill have virtually no accidents. However, with papertraining and box training, there will always be adanger ofaccidents when the dog is given run of the house and sees paper (or a box) and feels a need to relieve himself.

The outdoor method does not cost anything, but the paper method and litter box method may cause you to pay for paper (if you dont use newspaper) or litter. If you choose the

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outdoor method, be aware you need to pick up the poop. It is simple. You can use apooper-scooper if you like. There are several styles available at pet stores.

There are biodegradable plastic bags that are made for this purpose. Many apartmentand condo complexes provide them for their pet owners. They are available for purchaseat any pet store.

However, if they are not provided to you, you can use any plastic shopping bag (likethose used by grocery stores or super-stores) or a plastic sandwich or quart-sized bag(preferable without the zipper).

Simply put your hand in the bag and pick up the poop. Then take your other hand andpull the open end of the bag down your arm and hand, enclosing the poop. You can thencarry the bag by the open end to a dumpster or trashcan. Your hands will never touchthe poop.

If you have a large dog that excretes large amounts of feces, you may need two bags.You can put these in a pocket or you can get small carriers that attach to the dogsleash.

Even if your dog poops in your own yard, you will probably want to pick it up. It canoverwhelm and damage the grass. It can smell bad. You or your family could step in it. Ifyou have children, they might play in it. Your dog or some other animal might eat it,which would not be good.

If you ever desire to take your dog in the car with you, the outdoor method is far moreconvenient. It is nearly impossible to use the paper method or the litter box method when you are on the road.

If you leave your dog with a dog sitter or at a boarding service, they are most familiarwith the outdoor method and normally much prefer dogs that have been trained in that

way.

Since dogs are often in a crate or pen all the time except during the walk it is oftenfrustrating and more time consuming for the dog caregivers to work with a dog that hasbeen paper or litter box trained.

And a paper trained dog will spend hours with no place to go but to sit on the soakedand/or dirtied papers on the bottom of the crate. That will give him sores and make himdirty and smelly.

It may also be very degrading to the dog as many breeds of dogs are fastidious aboutcleanliness and do not want to eat or drink anywhere near where they have pottied.

When it is time to go potty, put the slip collar and leash on your dog and walkhim around the yard. Start him on the leash even if your yard is fenced. Thatgives you control over where he potties and whether or not he goes intoflowerbeds.

Take him outside to whatever area you have designated his pottyplace.

Use whatever word or phrase you have decided will mean go potty now.

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Let him sniff. Let him wet as often as he wants. However, if he marks flowers orbushes or wanders into areas where you do not want him, jerk him back sharply about 6-8 inches and say no in a firm voice.

Do not let the dog step out of the boundaries of the yard. When he gets to theboundaries, jerk him back and say no,boundary.

When he finishes with his business either urinates (pees) or defecates(poops) praise him in a very upbeat voice. Say something like: Good girl orgood job, Joey. Look directly at the dog (in his eyes if possible) when you sayit. You may rub hishead or under his chin if you want, but do not roughhousewith him.

After he potties (or, if he doesnt potty, wait about 15 minutes) it is time to takehim into the house, saying to him, Lets go into the house in a very happy voice.This will set the stage for his coming into the house any time you say house tohim and will be invaluable.

This is the routine you will use with your dog every couple of hours during the day every day for the first 7-10 days. See Chapter 5 if this will be difficult for you to do.

During the first week, DO NOT:

Let the dog out of the house by himself.

Take the dog outside of a fence without a slip collar and leash on him.

After the first week or two (as long as your dog is over three months old), you can beginto stretch the time between taking your dog out by fifteen minutes every 3-5 days. Bythe end of the first month, your dog should be able to wait 4 hours between potty times.

Advantages Of The Outdoor Method

Your dog is fully house trained.

Your dog will not have accidents in the house unless there is an issue or problem that needs to be solved.

Your dog can be taken anywhere and will behave in terms of house training.

Your dog can be boarded at any vet or kennel or kept by a friend or relative

without worrying about whether the dog will be sick or dirty when you return.

Your dogs stay at a boarding kennel, vet, or friend/relatives home will bewelcome and not dreaded.

Your dog will be able to tell you when he needs to potty.

Your dog will not want to soil his home which is also your home.

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Getting ready to leave your dog will be quick, easy, and painless since he willpotty on command.

Disadvantages Of The Outdoor Method:

Your dog will NOT go potty anywhere but outdoors.

If you move to a condo, apartment, or assisted living facility, you will have to walk your dog or have someone walk him for you.

Your dog may insist, he has to go potty to get your attention when he thinks youare spending too much time on the telephone or with another person or pet.

House training On Leash

The only way to achieve effective house training is by ensuring that you maintainfull control over when and where your dog does its business. One way to do this isthrough

leash bonding.

Housebreaking through leash is best if you intend to trainyour to eliminate outdoors. Before you walk your dog it isimportant that it is calm so give it a sit-stay commandbefore putting on their leash.

During the day while you're going about your normalroutine, you put a leash on your dog and attach the other

end to your belt. Don't make fuss about it. Just be casualand follow your usual routine with your dog attached!

Using the leash bonding is also a good way to get yourdog to bond with you. It learns that being with you is the

best place to be!

Be conscious of times when it is likely that your dog will have to go:

When it wakes up in the morning

10-15 minutes after every meal or drink

After your pup wakes from a nap

After rigorous play or exercise

Few hours after the last backyard or park tour

Just before going to bed at night

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Pretty soon your pup will get used to the routine and its regular schedule will fall intoplace.

Follow your dog's body language. Whenever you see it sniffing the ground or circlinground and round take it outdoors. Use commands like 'do it'. Praise your dog right after ithas done its deed.

If your dog starts to run towards the door right after you put finish putting the leash onsimply do a quick jerk with the leash and immediately release the leash to give it someslack, give a stop command then give a sit-stay command and then praise it when it issitting.After a few minutes take your dog outside for a walk.

Soon, you should be able to give your dog the command and it will respond. This is ahandy thing to train especially when you are out somewhere and want it to do it at aspecific time.

Continue to keep it leashed to you for the first 3-5 days when in the house. That way youhave complete control over where it goes and when it might decide to go indoors.

It is important that the dog doesn't lead you or pull on the leash when you are walking it. During the first few times simply walk your dog around the house or in the backyardwhere it is familiar with the surroundings.

If if pulls forward on the leash give a stay where you are, give a quick jerk with the leash and immediately release the leash to give it some slack and issue the stop command.You may have to repeat this several times before your dog stops. Then give a sit-staycommand and then praise it when it is sitting and praise it for its good action of sitting,wait several seconds then continue with the walk.

After your dog understands that you are doing the leading when you are walking it, youcan bring it out into the real world for a walk and if your pet still tries to pull ahead just

repeat the process above with the jerking of the leash. When it is doing a good job it isimportant that you give your dog praises and encouragement.

Paper Trainin g

Only very small (toy) breed dogs or puppies younger than six months should be paper-trained. Many breeds are not suited for paper training, so if you are thinking of using this method, find out as much as you can about that breed of dog and if it is appropriate.

This method can be used as a temporary method if the weather is bad. Medium or largedogs have too much urine and too much odor to their urine to be able to soak it up by

papers. It would also make the papers too heavy and wet to fold up and put into thetrash.

Select a convenient place in your home as the dogs papering area. The basement,bathroom, or utility room is suitable. Do not select an area with a hardwood floor.

If you are using this method because your puppy is too young to have control orbecause the weather is too nasty to take your dog outside, try to do it near the door you

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will be using to take your dog outside so that the transition is easier for your dog. Lateryou can put the papers outside the door and then eliminate them slowly.

Start by spreading newspapers three to five sheets thick over the entire area (at leasttwo feet by three feet) you want the dog to use. If your dog is older than six months, youmay want a thicker pad of newspapers. If possible, start by news papering the entire

floor of the area.

Place one sheet of soiled paper under the fresh paper in the area of the floor the dogfavors. He will be drawn to that spot by the scent of the urine and will eliminate on it.

Leave the papers on the floor at all times, twenty-four hours a day. Change them aftereach use. Throw away soiled papers in an outdoor trash bin as soon after they aresoiled as possible.

Watch your dog or puppy carefully (like a hawk) at all times. As soon as she starts topotty (pee or poop), pick her up and quickly take her to the papered area.If you have chosen a word or phrase meaning go potty you can use it as you set herdown. Once she has pottied on the papers, praise her.

Clean up any area where she has pottied that is not on the papers. Use the appropriatecleaning products so she does not smell anything that would cause her to potty thereagain.

Use the appropriate schedule for house training, but use the papers as her pottyplaceand take her to them every couple of hours.Always praise her if she potties there.

On the sixth day, or whenever you realize the dog is using the same spot each time,start decreasing the amount of area you cover withpapers. Decrease from the outside edge so that thebare floor shows like a border. You may have to make

the pad of papers thicker to absorb all of the urine.(Also, as your dog gets older and bigger, there will bemore urine each time she pees.)

For the next three to five days, gradually reduce thepapered area of the floor. Continue decreasing the areathat is papered until only the spot the dog has chosen touse is papered. If he misses the paper, increase thepaper to cover the spot he is using.

The ink on the newspapers can come off and soil yourpuppys feet. If that occurs, you may want to purchase

special papers for this purpose at a pet store. These are referred to as trainingpads orelimination pads or piddle pads and are sold by a variety of companies. Some evencome with a special tray-type holder and under-tray. Most have a scent, which attractsdogs to do their business.

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Tips For Paper Training

Do not try to train your dog to potty outdoors and indoors at the same time.

Do not feed or play with your dog near the indoor place where she is supposed to potty.

Be consistent in your expectations and in the words and body language and toneof voice you use with your dog.

Be patient indoor house training takes longer than outdoor.

Advantages & Uses Of Paper Training

If you get a puppy during a very cold or very snowy or icy winter, you may needto paper train in the beginning and then re-train to outdoors when the weather is

better.

If the owner of the dog is elderly, handicapped or has no access to outdoorwalking areas and the dog is a toy breed, paper training can be used so that thedog does not have to be walked.

Disadvantages To Paper Training

It is a mess to fold and dispose of urine-soaked papers.

It is inconvenient to dispose of urine-soaked papers immediately upon use each

time.

Your dog never learns to tell you when he has to potty since he simply potties.

Your house will always have the odor of dog urine.

Your dog will never be fully house trained and may have accidents in otherparts of the house throughout his life.

You will not be happy with the way boarding kennels handle a paper trained dog.Often your dog will sit in his pee and poop for hours, making him filthy, smelly,and even sick. You will have to pay extra for a larger pen when you board your

dog.

For many dog owners, who teach their pet to eliminate indoors, using paper isconsidered as an added hassle. Many complain that their dogs become too naughtduring such times and instead of eliminating on the paper, they starts shredding ordigging on it. It becomes more of a fun game for them rather than a housetraining session.

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The other alternatives to paper training are using wee pads, diapers, or litter boxes . Toysdogs often continue to use these wee pads or litter boxes, all their lives.

However, always follow one particular method. If your puppy is trained to urinate anddefecate indoors, then stick to it. For example, if for one month you training it toeliminate indoors and then suddenly one day you take your puppy outside and ask it to

'go potty' there, then it will only confuse your little pet.

Wee Pads Ins tead Of Paper

Wee pads are modern day alternatives to newspapers and litter boxes mostly for dogswho are trained to eliminate indoors. In case you are planning to train your dog toeliminate indoors, wee pads are a good option.

These pads are manufactured in such a way that you can permanently avoid poop andpee stench and stains. Moreover, these pads are treated with natural attractants to help draw pets to the pads.

Wee pads are also best for house training puppies, stay at home dogs, seniordogs, disabled pet owners, or even for people who cannot avail the facility of takingtheir dog to the backyard.

Many dog owners use newspapers instead of wee pads, but newspapers are easy toshred can leave a stench mark on your floor and are difficult to dispose. For those whohave thick-carpeted floors, can opt for wee pads.

To train your dog to eliminate on wee pads, all you have to do is follow thefollowing steps below:

Buy a wee pad pack according to the size of your dog. Naturally, a big dog willneed a much larger wee pad than a toy dog.

Choose the corner of the house where you want your dog to eliminate every day.Make sure the place is far away from where your pet eats or sleeps.Always usethat particular corner to place the wee pad.

Place the pad on the floor (plastic side down) and place your pup on top of it just after every meal, drink, workouts, and before and after each nap.

After you place your dog on the wee pad you can use the commands like 'do it',

'go', 'go here', 'do it here' or whatever word or phrase you find convenient.

Remove the pad after the dog has done his deed.

In case your puppy tries to shred or dig the pad, just say 'No' in a stern voice.This itself will be enough to startle it and stop it from what it was doing.

Good quality wee pads are tear and scratch resistant. They are easy to disposeand will make your job of carrying soiled pads to the garbage hassle free.

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However, never train your puppy to eliminate on both paper and wee pads. Thisconfuses the dog.

It is always advisable to all dog owners who want to train their dogs on wee pads shouldcontinue to do so for the rest of their dog's life.

For example, you live in an apartment building complex where there is nothing calledbackyard and you train your dog to eliminate indoors on wee pads. Not even onnewspapers.

Then suddenly you move into a house that has a big fenced backyard and you expectyour wee pads-trained dog to go outdoor to eliminate itself, then be prepared to besurprised. Your dog will start looking for an indoor potty place instead of actually goingoutdoors, just because you have repeated trained it to do so before.

Scented wee pads are also available in the market today to do away with the stench, the scents are mostly of natural grass and earth, to help the dog relate to Nature more . Youcan even by deodorizer that acts as room fresheners.

Although hygienic, few dog owners consider wee pads as an added expense. But forpeople who don't have time to take their dog outdoors or don't have such a facility, canconsider it as a better option.

Even when the dog owner is not at home, he or she can be content that his or her petwill only eliminate itself on the wee pad at the corner of the room and not on the carpet,floor, or rugs.

Types of wee pads available:

Puppy Training Pads

Smaller in size, these puppy house training pads are convenient for small puppieswho have developed a control over their bladders and bowels, but are still notfully housebroken.

Place you puppy on the wee pad after each meal, drink, walk and play and softlyencourage your puppy to eliminate there. With time and regular training you will find yourpuppy using the training pads itself without your encouragement.

Adult Dog Training Pads

Specially made for adult dogs, these pads are made for dogs undergoing housetraining or are not fully housebroken. These pads have more absorbent capacity andare ideal for adult dogs left at home with no place to go and eliminate.

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Replacement Pads

These are basically dog diapers made for puppies that are yet to develop a control overtheir bladders and bowels. These replacement pads are also ideal for adult dogs thathave somehow lost control over urinating or defecating, like, senior dogs, abused dogsor even dogs having submissive or excitement urination.

Many replacement pads come with adjustable belts and also are available in differentsizes.

Diaper Trainin g

Nowadays, urban dog owners are finding doggie diapers quite convenient for their pets. Dog diapers not only provide proper sanitation but it is also the best solution for theeveryday trouble of most pet owners in washing out theirdogs waste and pee.

Dogs dont know where is the right area to release their body wastes unless they areproperly trained. Thats why it is better that dog owners give pets the most propertraining.

Many dog owners think that their puppies look cute while wearing a diaper, especially, it the dog is of a toy breed. If you are sensitive to stinking odor of dog's waste, or if youhave little children or senior citizens at home, then training your dog to wear diapers isperhaps your best option.

Dog diapers are available in various sizes and shapes and come in various price ranges to suit your budget. Whether you own a toy breed, a puppy or a giant dog, diaper is afavorable bargain.

Remember that puppies do not have full control until they are about 10 weeks old. Youcan always go for dog diapers like humans do for their babies.

Although, avoid making your dog wear diapers for long periods of time. Your dog maydevelop infection owing to lack of air circulation on its body.

Puppy & Senior Dog Diapers

Also known as poochie pants, dog diaper is a fashionable and disposable absorbentblanket designed for convenient collection and disposal of a pet dog's solid and fluidwaste, without having to see, touch or smell the waste.

Since puppies do not have any control over their bladder till they are 10 weeks old, youcan always use a diaper for your pet.

But do not make your dog wear the diaper at a stretch for a long time. This way you canavoid infection owing to lack of air circulation.

Since dogs defecate 3 or 4 times a day and urinate 10-12 times a day (for puppies, thisis more frequent), diapers need to be changed at least 3 times a day.

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The elastic side of the diaper protects against leakage and with non-sticky, adjustablefasteners you can avoid pull in the hair. Diapers are available in different sizes suitablefor every dog breeds.

Dog Diapers Can Be Best For:

Small puppies who are yet to develop a control over their bladders and bowels

Dogs having excitement or submissive urination

Have somehow lost control over their urination

Dogs having seasonal flow

Senior dogs who with age lose their bladder control

Dogs who will be traveling long distance with their owners

Abused dogs with no bladder control

Avoid Direct Contact With Waste:

Unlike baby diapers, dog diapers are made in such a way that the wastes are deposited in different pouches. This prevents the contact between the waste and anal or genitalregion of the dog. Thus the diaper can be easily disposed off without even touching,smelling or seeing the doggie waste.

Also, ends the unpleasant chore of picking up dog waste by hand with plastic bags or

pooper-scoopers outdoors or indoors.

Avoid Messy Accidents:

By making your dog wear a diaper indoors, you can avoid indoor accidental elimination. This goes especially for dogs with housebreaking problems, senior dogs who have littlecontrol over their bowels and puppies.

Two different types:

With one pouch made only for solid waste

With two pouches one for fluid waste and one for solid waste

Some diapers are fully disposable and others are reusable with disposable pouches.Dog diapers are available in all pet stores and in different price range to suit yourbudget.

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Lit ter Box Training

Only very small (toy) breed dogs or puppies younger than six months should be litter boxtrained. Medium or large dogs have large amounts of urine and feces, both of which are very smelly. The amount of litter needed to soak it all up would be very heavy to put into the trash.And the cost of the amount of litter needed per week would be prohibitive.Use the appropriate schedule for house training, but use the litter box as her pottyplaceand take her to it every couple of hours.Always praise her if she potties there.

Select an appropriate place in your home for the dogs litter box. The basement,bathroom, or utility room is suitable. Do not select an area with a hardwood floor. If youare using this method because your puppy is too young to have control or because theweather is too nasty to take your dog outside, try to do it near the door you will be usingto take your dog outside so that the transition is easier for your dog.

Purchase A Litter Box.

You will want a large litter box. There are special dog litter boxes, but the leastexpensive (and sturdiest) option is the largest size of cat litter box. If it has any type of lidor top, remove it. Put some newspapers (2-3 sheets thick) on the floor where you will putthe litter box.

Do not put the litter box in a room with a hardwood floor. The litter box should be awayfrom his food and water dishes and away from his play area and toys. You will need todecide what litter you will use.

There are several options:

Special Litter Made For Dogs

Second Nature Dog Litter It is pellets made from recycled newspapers and woodpulp, making it absorbent and dust free. It controls odors and claims it does not track orstain.

Shredded Newspaper

It is more difficult to get it to soak up urine after shredding it. You will have to purchaseshredder or purchase shredded paper.

Cat Litter

Clay litters such as Tidy Cat - This or a generic of it is readily available at massmerchandisers (Wal-Mart, Meijer, Target, etc.) and is relatively inexpensive. It is noteffective at controlling odor from dogs, it tracks very badly, and it is very dusty. It is notbiodegradable and must be taken to the trash. It is heavy when dry and very heavy whenwet.

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Pine litters such as ExquisiCat and Feline Pine -- It is pelleted litter made fromcompressed pine (no new trees cut). It claims no odor or dust and completely flushableor reuseable on yard or garden. It degrades to sawdust when urinated upon (thesawdust does track). It controls odor better than most litters. It is highly absorbent andbasically disintegrates when used. It is very lightweight.

This is an excellent alternative for elderly or apartment or high-rise dwellers. Be awarethat some dogs eat this and it probably is not very healthy in the digestive tract.

Elimination Pads

These are trainingpads or that are designed for indoor pottying. You can get a holderand a tray to go under them. They already have a scent, which attracts your dog to doher business on them. This is a variation on paper training and on litter boxtraining. These do not control odor very well and are heavy and smelly when wet.

A good way to start your litter training is to put several sheets of newspaper in thebottom of the box and then put about two cups of litter on top of that. Each time the doguses the litter box, you will need to empty it and start over unless you are using pinepellets which you may need to add. Throw away soiled papers and litter in an outdoortrash bin.

Make sure that when you put fresh newspaper and litter in the box there is still the scent of the dogs urine/feces in the box. This can be accomplished with a small piece ofsoaked paper from the dirty box.

You can begin to add more litter and decrease the newspaper in the bottom as your doguses the litter box more regularly. You will soon figure out how much paper and howmuch litter is needed to completely absorb yourdogs urine. Remember that dogs do notcover their feces; they leave the poop for all to see and smell.

Watch your dog or puppy carefully (like a hawk) at all times. As soon as she starts topotty (pee or poop), pick her up (or lead her) and quickly take her to the litter box. If youhave chosen a word or phrase meaning go potty you can use it as you set her down.Once she has pottied in the box, praise her.

Clean up any area where she has pottied that is not in the box. Use the appropriatecleaning products so she does not smell anything that would cause her to potty thereagain.

Advantages & Uses Of Litter Box Training:

If the owner of the dog is elderly and the dog is a toy breed, litter box training can be used so that the dog does not have to be walked. This protects the ownerfrom dangerous falls. Try the pine pellets.

If the owner will be gone long hours and cannot have someone take the dog outto a potty place, a litter box allows the dog to have a chance to relieve herselfduring all those hours.

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Disadvantages To Litter Box Training:

It is a mess to dispose of urine-soaked litter. It can be heavy and smelly.

It is inconvenient to dispose of urine-soaked litter immediately upon use eachtime.

Your dog never learns to tell you when he has to potty since he simply potties.

Your house will always have the odor of dog urine and poop.

You will not be happy with the way boarding kennels handle a litter box traineddog. Often your dog will sit in his pee and poop for hours, making him filthy,smelly, and even sick. You will have to take his litter box and litter to the boardingkennel and explain how he uses it.

You will also have to pay for a larger kennel (more cost) to accommodate the dog andthe litters box so that he does not have to sit in the litter box all the time.

Litter costs money.

DO NOT USE CLUMPING CAT LITTER IN A DOG L ITTER BOX.

You wi l l have a box fu l l o fcement.

Li t ter Bo x Train ing For Ad ul t Dogs

I do not want to sound daunting, but litter box training is not easy, more so for an adultdog. But it is not impossible if you try. If you have an adult dog who has been trained to

go outside, it will require time, energy, patience and love. Give him enough space andpampering so that he can get adjusted to litter training.

Dogs are real neat creatures. They do not bury their excreta or look for litter-likesurfaces. So some extensive training is required for getting him used to the litter tray,just as any other substitute of going out to poop.

The easy way out is perhaps to crate-train your dog first. If you manage to teach thenegative, the positive would not be far away. A crate is like a small room. Dogs do notlitter the place where they sleep so if you keep them confined in a crate, chances arethey will not poop there.

To counter this, you may keep a litter box on the other side of the crate so that your dog

picks up the cue. He will soon know his pooping place. If your adult dog is uncomfortablein confinement, use a large, open crate.

Sometimes older dogs that you have adopted from other places may not behouse trained at all. Or the case may be such that they are overwhelmed in thenew environment by anxiety or excitement. You have to treat them like puppies.

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If a dog has been a street dog, litter training may take considerable effort . Do be patientand loving. Never forget to praise your dog for pooping in the right place. Rememberpositive reinforcement can work wonders even if the dog is not so young.

Sometimes older dogs face housebreaking problems because of other health concerns. So if none of the ways work for, do take him to the vet.

Crate Trainin g

Crate training is not another method for house training. It can be used along withthe outdoor method or the paper training method or the litter (box) training method.Cratetraining is your best ally in house training (or if you need to re-train).

Crate training is simply putting your dog into a crate at times when you cannot watch himevery second during house training, you leave home, you want him to sleep, youneed him to be or feel safe, you are traveling with him (even to the vet), or you needmore control over his behavior.

Crate training is important for dogs that will be left alone for periods of time orwho will be boarded at a place where they will be crated.

A crate is useful for restricting your new dog from access to various areas of thehouse. This will be help in keeping him from soiling those parts of the housewhile he is being house trained. It will also keep him from chewing thingshe should not chew until he gets past that stage of life.

Crates are useful for transporting a dog. Some people like to crate their dogs inthe car. Unless you purchase a seat for your dog, he will have to be crated totravel by airplane and travel as cargo.

When you have guests or stay in a motel or at a friends home with your dog, acrate is useful in containing the dog and limiting his access to the other peopleand to furniture and other items.

A crate is vital if you plan to show your dog. Even if that showing will be a 4-Hshow, you and your child will not want to spend hours holding and walking yourdog while awaiting the dogs turn to show and awaiting the results of thatshowing.

The crate should be a safe place for your dog. Dogs live in dens in the wild, sothis will become his den. If it is approached properly and early in his life with you,he will learn to go into it without balking and to stay in it until released without

protesting by digging or barking. Many dogs enjoy being in their crates. You donot want your dog to potty in the crate, and if he sees it as his den, he will notpotty in it.

Crate training is never used as punishment or time out. It is always to beviewed as a happy and safe place for your dog.

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Crate training is an aid to house training any age dog no matter whathis background. The crate is a place he wants to be and is considered his den,so hewill not want to potty in his crate.

Choosing A Crate

There are several types of crates wire, plastic, nylon fabric, and combination. Someare collapsible and some simply come apart in two pieces. Which type of crate youchoose will depend on your preference, how you will be using it, and your dogstemperament.

If you want your dog to sleep most of the time he is in the crate, choose one that is allplastic as they tend to be darker and not allow him to see very much except through the door at the end.

If your dog is a real people-lover like a Golden Retriever, choose one that is all metalwith all the sides being wire and place the crate where he can see people coming and

going. If you have a small breed dog you will be taking in a crate often, you may prefer a nylon crate with windowshades that roll up like tent flaps.

If you will be carrying the crate often, choose one that is lighter in weight. Plastic cratesare always lightweight, but take more room to store. Metal and wire crates come invarious weights with heavier ones being sturdier. The lower the number of wire gage, the thicker and stronger the wire, and the heavier the crate.

However, they usually fold fairly flat to store or transport and have a handle to be carried like a suitcase. Make sure that the person who will be transporting the crate can lift and carry it and load it into and unload it from the vehicle that will be transporting it.

What size crate should you buy?

Buy one that will be large enough for your dog to stand up and turn around when he isfully grown. You can get a divider to put into it to make it smaller (especially applicablefor wire crates) while he is smaller if you want to do that.

Where should you buy your crate?

Look around shop at all the pet stores and mass merchandisers in your area. Set theappropriately sized crates on the floor of the store. Assemble them to see how easilythey assemble and disassemble. Collapse them. Carry them. Price them. If you already

have your dog, take your dog to the pet stores and see if there is one type he will go into or not go into easily.

Then go to the web sites listed at the end of this ebook and look at the crates. How dothey compare to the ones you have seen? Just remember that if you purchase oneonline, you will pay postage based on weight.

You can usually find out how much by putting the item in your shoppingcart and goingthrough the purchase process up to the point of putting in your payment information. At

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that point, it may not be cost effective to purchase the crate online unless you cannotfind the same one in your local store.

Introducing Your Dog To The Crate

Be aware that crate training may take a day or it may take several weeks dependingupon your dog. In a few rare cases, dogs simply never crate train and will injure

themselves trying to escape.

Be calm, positive, and patient. Be consistentwith your dog.

Put the crate in a room where you and yourfamily spend time such as a family room. Thefloors of crates are either slick plastic or metal or wire.

Therefore, covering most of the floor with acheap rug with a rubberized or non-slip backing

(or a pad or dog bed) will help yourdogs footing and comfort in the crate.

Make sure it does not have much of a nap or any loops that can catch the dogs toenail.Such a rug can be easily washed in the washing machine and hung to dry (do not use a dryer to fully dry it as the rubber backing will come apart).

If your dog has a blanket he likes, you may want to put it into the crate. You will alsowant to put a favorite toy in the crate. A chew toy he likes is a good way to occupy yourdog in the crate.

Use the word kennel or crate to mean go into the crate. Always say it in an upbeat,happy voice such as Tippy,crate.

Before asking your dog to enter the crate, ALWAYS take him to his potty place,use the cue word youve chosen to mean go potty and give him ample time topotty.

To get your dog into the crate, start by opening the door and securing it to stay open, ortaking it off the crate. Then try putting yourdogs favorite toy in the crate as you say theword youve chosen to mean go into the crate. If he goes into the crate to get his toy,praise him happily even if he comes right out with the toy.

If he refuses to go into the crate, encourage him with happy words like go get it orget

your toy. As he goes into the crate to get the toy, say whateveryouve chosen to meango into the crate.

Reach into the crate and get the toy for him if he still refuses and play with him with thetoy for a few minutes. Then put it just inside the door to the crate and tell him to get it.

If, after 2-3 tries, he refuses to enter the crate, try some favorite treats instead of the toy. Another possibility is purchasing an appropriately sized Kong toy and putting peanut

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butter in it.Allow him to have it outside the crate a few times and, if he likes it, then put itin the crate so he will go in and sit there to work on getting the peanut butter out of it.

If he wont enter the crate with the treats or the Kong, leave the treats or the Kongthere and leave the door open. Go about your daily routine and let your dog stay withyou so he does not think the crate means you are leaving him . You do not want the crate

to cause him separation anxiety.

Often if the treats are in the crate and the door is open, he will get curious and go get atreat (or the Kong) when he thinks you are not looking. If you see him do it, praise him.

After he has gotten treats out of it a couple of times, place treats farther in the crate sothat he has to go at least halfway in the crate to get them.

Whether or not your dog enters the crate, you will want to work with his entering it 3-4times a day for 10-15 minutes. If he goes in, praise him. For the first 3-4 days, do notclose the door; allow him to go in and out at will.

Overcoming Crate Resistance

If, after two weeks of this, your dog still will not enter the crate, there are a couple of things you can try.

Move the crate to another room such as your bedroom or a room you go into but do not allow him into as yet. INVITE him into the crate as a way of inviting himinto the room.

Try feeding your dog his meals near the crate for several days to dispel the idea of it being scary. Then put the meal inside the crate for several days. Once heeats his meal near the front of the crate, start moving it farther back until it is

finally at the back of the crate.

Find a friend who has a crate trained dog or a doggie daycare center. Ask if youcan bring your dog to watch another dog that is crate trained . Because dogs arepack animals, your dog may enter a crate after seeing another dog enter it.

Or, he may enter to smell where the other dog has been. If the crate is large enough toaccommodate both dogs and the two dogs get along with each other, encourage them togo into the crate together.

Your last resort is physically picking him up and putting him in the crate. If youhave to do this, make sure he has enough room to stand up and to turn aroundand to lie down comfortably.

Praise him and make it sound like a game. Pet him and praise him while he is in thecrate. Give him a treat. Leave the door open and let him come out when he is ready.

If you get an adult dog that has never been crate trained, the process will be muchharder and longer, but the end result will be worthwhile.

For small dogs that do not want to be separated from you, getting to go in the car in thecrate may be a good incentive. For large dogs who do not want to be separated from

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you, getting to go into a heretofore forbidden area of the house with you by being in thecrate may be an incentive.

Teaching Your Dog to Stay in the Crate

Once your dog is easily entering the crate on his own, it is time to start conditioning him to stay in the crate. This is when a comfort toy, blanket, and/or chew toy (a hoof, pigsear, rawhide chew or Nylabone product) become important.

Warning: Nylabone products are safe for any age dog or puppy. However, puppiesand young dogs should not be given hoofs (they could damage teeth and gums), pigsears (the grease might make them sick), or rawhide chews (they could pull a tooth out).

One method of teaching your dog to stay in the crate is to feed your dog his meals nearthe crate for several days to dispel the idea of it being scary. Then put the meal insidethe crate for several days.And, finally put it at the back of the crate.

After the dog has eaten in the crate for several days, start closing the door while he eats.Open the door when he finishes. After doing this for a few days, start lengthening thetime the door stays closed after he eats by 5-10 minutes.

If you ever board your dog, he will be fed his meals in a crate or pen, so it is good forhim to eat meals in the crate before going to boarding the first time. That way it will notbe a scary, new experience for him.

Another method of teaching your dog to stay in the crate is to put his toy or treats in thecrate to get him to go into it and start closing the door to the crate for 10-15 minutes.Praise him for staying. If he lies down and seems content, stay in the room, but dont payhim any particular attention.

If he is uneasy or paces or whines, reassure him in a calm and matter-of-fact voice; doNOT let him out. If he becomes frantic or starts digging at the crate, tell him no in adisapproving voice and then reassure him that he is okay and can get out soon.

The first couple of times you may have to talk to him most of the time he is in the closed crate. However, start decreasing the amount of talking you do and simply let him knowyou are near by walking past the crate.

Once he stays in the crate for 15 minutes at a time without fussing or being uneasy, start lengthening the time he is in the crate. You can also start leaving the room for 2-5minutes at a time. And, if that works, start lengthening the amount of time there isnobody in the room with him.

If your dog starts to exhibit fearful or anxious behavior by whining, scratching, digging, orbarking, you will need to go back to the crate and tell him no in your best disapprovingvoice. Do not use a harsh voice and do not do it loudly. Do not yell at him from anotherroom of the house.

Try to make eye contact with him when you say no. Then distract him by showing hima treat or another toy he can have when he comes out of the crate.As soon as he quietsdown, release him from the crate and praise him.

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Give him the treat or toy you showed him.And dont forget to take him to his potty place. Never reward undesired behavior (whining, scratching, digging, or barking) by givingyour dog what he wants or he will only learn that that behavior works for him.

Preparing To Leave Your Dog In The Crate

Once your dog stays in the crate for 30 minutes or more and you can leave the roomduring that time, you can start leaving the house and leaving him in the crate for shortperiods of time. Vary the length of time you are gone. Do not leave every time you puthim in the crate or he will associate the crate with your leaving and become unhappywith being crated.

As usual, each time you crate him, take him to his potty place first and take him to hispotty place when you release him from the crate.

Do not make a big deal out of leaving. Keep matter-of-fact and routine. Simply take himpotty, put him in the crate, finish getting ready to leave, and leave. Once you feel

comfortable with his being in the crate for an hour or more, you can crate him for up to15-20 minutes prior to leaving.

When you return, do not invite him to get excited about your return and his release.Again, be low key and routine. Simply say hello and praise him quietly (but happily) forbeing good and staying in his crate. Release him and take him to his potty place. Afteryou have been home for a few minutes and he has pottied, you can play with him andallow him to be with you.

If you crate a young puppy while you are at work, you will find that he will learn to controlhis bladder and bowels earlier than if he is not crated and for longer periods than apuppy that is not crated.

Using The Crate For Sleeping At Night

Many people like for their dog to sleep in a crate at night. If you want your dog to sleep ina crate, start with it the first night if possible (or as soon as possible so he does not getused to sleeping elsewhere).

The routine is the same as usual. Work with the appropriate schedule for when to putyour dog to bed in the crate.

Be low key and routine; do not get excited or angry or raise your voice to get him into the crate.

Take him to his potty place.

Take him to the crate and say the word youve chosen for entering the crate.Dont forget to be upbeat and positive.

Use a treat to get him to go in if necessary.

Make sure he has a blanket or bed in his crate. An appropriate stuffed toy mayalso give him a sibling-substitute for cuddling.

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Do not cover his crate unless he fusses and whines and covering helps himsettle down and sleep.

He may prefer his crate to be in your bedroom where he can see you, especially if he is young or is a dog you have rescued; however, you can slowly move itfarther from you over a period of time as he becomes more secure in knowing

you are not leaving him. Listen for him to fuss to go potty during the night if he is young or set your

alarm for 4-5 hours to take him out so he does not have an accident in the crate.If he does fuss or whine, simply take him to his potty place and then put him backin the crate do not make over him, give him treats, cuddle him, or otherwise lethim think that fussing or whining is rewarded.

When you get up in the morning, release him from the crate and take him to hispotty place.

CAUTION

Puppies should not spend more than 2 hours at a time in a crate.

Make sure your dog is getting plenty of exercise and time out of the crate.

Do NOT crate him all day while you are at work AND all night. Dogs should never be in a crate more than 8-10 hours of any 24 hours.

Tips For Crate Training:

The crate is a POSITIVE, happy, safe place. Keep it that way. Always take your dog to his potty place before asking him to enter the crate. Always take your dog to his potty place immediately when he comes out of the

crate.

Always praise your dog for entering the crate. When first training your dog to the crate, do not put food (meals) or water in the

crate.

Your dog can be given a treat to go into the crate, but be consistent and alwaysgive the treat. If you quit giving the treat, then you do not need to randomly givethe treat unless he begins to balk at going into the crate.

Never reward whining, digging, scratching or barking with praise or with releasingyour dog from the crate.

No dog should spend more than 10 hours of any 24-hour period in a crate. If youcrate your dog for the night, then do not crate him while you are at work for 8-10hours and vice versa, if you crate him while you are at work, then do not cratehim at night.

He must have time and place to move around. You need to be careful that he does notfeel trapped and that he gets enough exercise and adequate time with you.

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If your dog is really upset with the crate and works really hard at digging out, he canseriously injure himself. If he does this, you will have to start crate training all over,staying with him every time you crate him until he is fully settled and relaxed in thecrate.

There are some dogs that cannot be crate trained. If that is true of your dog and you

truly need to contain him, try shutting him in a room like a bathroom with a gate across the door. He has a high need to be able to see you or hear you at all times.

Dont forget to give him a couple of favorite toys and his blanket or bed. Train him to thisroom in the same way you would to a crate a few minutes at a time with you nearby forseveral days. Gradually lengthen the amount of time.Add a favorite chew toy and leavethat part of the house for a few minutes at a time.

Advantages & Uses Of Crate Training:

Your dog will feel safe in his crate den. You can have a break from constantly watching your dog while house training. You can safely leave your dog at home, at a boarding kennel, at the vet,

etc.

You can safely take your dog with you any place. You can have guests who are afraid of or allergic to your dog (or simply not

used to a dog).

Young puppies crate train easily and can be taught to control their bladderand bowels for longer periods at an earlier age if they are crate trained.

A dog who has been adopted at an older-than-puppy age may have any oneof a variety of problems which can be helped or solved with the use of cratetraining.

Disadvantages Of Crate Training:

Your dog will run to the crate for protection and safety if he thinks he is introuble.

Your dog may want his crate available at all times which may not be the wayyou had envisioned using it.

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Clicker Training

Ifyouve never heard of clicker training, it is a fairly popular method of training dogs and even young puppies using a clicker and small treats. With this method, a puppy asyoung as six weeks can be house trained or obedience trained to sit, heel, and come.Itis also a great method for teaching your dog not to jump on people. It is fun for boththe dog and the trainer since it more like a game than training.

Examples Of Clickers

Start by putting the clicker and a small bag of treats near the door you will go out to go to the dogs potty place (or near the potty place if it is indoors).

Take your dog to his potty place at a time he is likely to need to potty after waking,eating or drinking, or exercising and wait for the dog to go potty. When clicker training,do NOT use a word or phrase to tell him to go potty. Simply give him time in the rightlocation to do it.

As your dog finishes his business, click the clicker and give him a treat. Also giveverbal praise after the click - as with any other method. The clicker marks thecorrect behavior and the praise and treat reinforce the right behavior so he wants to doit again.If you do not use food treats, it will slow the process.

After 25-50 correct clicks, your dog should begin to let you know when he needs to gopotty. Be aware of his body language and posture so that you know when he needs togo potty.

Do not click too soon (while he is in the process) or you may startle or excite him,causing himto put it off to get the treat instead.

If you catch him in the act of pottying in the wrong place, do not click or treat. Quicklystartle him, say no and take him to his potty place. The message is: Potty in the rightplace and get great treats, but potty in the wrong place and get no treats.

Indo or Hous e training

Taking their dogs outdoors to eliminate is not always feasible for many urban pet dogowners. Especially for senior citizens, disabled people, or people who live in high-riseapartment buildings, having a backyard or park to take their dog out is a conveniencethey had to give up to live in the city. Sometimes, people who are not in control of their

schedule may fail to take their dogs for the evening walk.

Whatever may be the reason, in such circumstances teaching your dog to eliminateindoors may be the only option you can give your dog.

Indoor training requires you to teach your dog or puppy to eliminate in a particularlocation inside your home.

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Fortunately, most indoor dogs can be house trained fairly easily, especially if you startat an early stage. Indoor training requires the same dedication and training time asoutdoor house training. However, the only difference is that you will be placing yourpet on litter box, training pads or newspaper instead of taking it outdoors in thebackyard.

Mark The Area

Your first step while teaching your puppy or dog is to select a corner inside your homewhere your dog will eliminate every day. Make sure this corner is away from theplaces where your dog eat or sleeps. Also, keep in mind that the place should be easyto cleanas well.

Keep The Location Fixed

The location should always remain the same.At first, cover a larger area than is actually

needed - about three to four square feet - with training pads.As the training sessions willprogress, you can reduce the area size accordingly.

Make A Proper Routine

After every meal, drink, nap and work out sessions take your puppy to the marked area.Let it relate. With the passing of time, your puppy will be able to understand that going to that corner of the room means your puppy need to poop or pee. If your dog looksagitated or starts circling or sniffing the floor, take it to its 'poop-zon

Documents

The Definitive Guide To House Training Your Dog