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DOCK PRIMERTH
E
A COTTAGER’S GUIDE TO WATERFRONT-FRIENDLY DOCKS
3
THE DOCK PR I MERB y M a x B u r n s
COTTAGE LIFE
54 St. Patrick Street, Toronto, ON M5T 1V1
416-599-2000 fax: 416-599-0800
E-mail: [email protected]
FISHERIES AND OCEANS CANADA
Fish Habitat Management Program
– Ontario, Referrals Coordinator,
867 Lakeshore Rd., Burlington ON L7R 4A6
905-336-4595 fax: 905-336-6285
E-mail: [email protected]
CONTENTS
PAG E 4
GETTING STARTED •A shoreline named desire
PAG E 7
THE SHAPE OF THINGS TO COME•The limits to thin
•Between a dock and a hard place•Dock materialism
PAG E 1 2
DOCK TYPES •Removable docks •Permanent docks •Specialty docks
PAG E 2 0THE APPROVAL PROCESS
•Who does what? •Tips for easing the process
PAG E 2 2FURTHER READING
Produced by Cottage Life in association with
Fisheries and Oceans Canada
proposed project all neatly drawn out,cuts down on the red tape (see “TheApproval Process,” p. 20). Yet the bestreason to map your shoreline is that itgreatly eases the task of choosing the loca-tion, type, and size of dock best suited toyour needs and budget, whether you’rebuilding it yourself or hiring a professional.
Begin the mapping process by locatinglot lines and measuring any structures,such as the cottage or pumphouse. Markyour findings on the map. Same goes forthe shape of the shoreline, the directionof prevailing winds and currents, thebest views of the lake and shoreline, thetopography and vegetation on the landrising from the water and the land underthe water, noting its makeup (rock, sand,mud) at 12', 24', and 36' intervals. Alsomark the location of submerged naviga-tional hazards such asrocks and sandbars. Note
frequently used areas such as horseshoepits or swimming areas, along with water-intake lines, power lines, and telephonelines – basically everything.
If you are aware of shoreline nestingsites for waterfowl (remember the duck-lings that swam by in the spring?), fishspawning areas or wetlands, mark theseon the map too. But don’t include anyas-yet-to-be-constructed docks – yet.Do, however, take pictures. In the sum-mer, definitely, but also in winter andduring spring break-up if possible. Whileyour cottage may be only a summertimeretreat, the shoreline is there all year,and spring ice can tear apart anythingthat you might decide to add – evenreinforced concrete bunkers. If you arenew to the area, ask the neighboursabout the ice; longtime residents delightin frightening newcomers.
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G e t t i n g S t a r t e d
In the beginning...there was a shore-line. Perhaps it already had a dock,one that no longer suited anybody’srequirements. Perhaps the dock was
falling apart, or maybe the shoreline wasdevoid of a dock, an empty beach withno place to moor a boat. For whateverreason, the decision was made, and thatshoreline is getting a new dock.
Building a residential dock is not adifficult process. In fact, constructing adock can be as easy as falling off a log,often with the same results. Fortunately,building a safe and stable dock is only alittle more difficult than building a badone, with the majority of not-as-good-as-they-could-be docks existing simplybecause the builder was unaware howlittle separates good from bad. Thisprimer points both the confirmed do-it-yourselfer and the equally confirmedpurchase-it-yourselfer in the directionof good docks and good dock-buildingpractices. It also explains how to avoidsome potentially damaging and costlyerrors. For the full scoop on docks –including plans and full constructiontechniques – you will need to buy TheDock Manual (Storey Books), the onlyresource that can explain all facets ofresidential dock construction. (See“Further Reading,” p. 22.) Coin-cidentally, The Dock Manualwas also written by the author
of this primer, which explains how I gotaway with borrowing some researchfrom it.
The most important thing to knowabout dock construction is that no dockis a stand-alone structure. A dock has towork in harmony with that sometimesuneasy marriage of land and waterknown as your shoreline, and with thevarious uses you and your family envi-sion for that shoreline. No two sitesare alike. And no two families are alike. Celebrate this uniqueness by makingnote of your shoreline’s prominent fea-tures and hidden secrets. Then make adetailed map of it all. Graph paper isthe preferred media for cartographicnovices, as a scale can easily be assignedto the squares, such as one 1 ⁄4" squareequals 4' or whatever is needed to fityour cottage shoreline onto paper.
A detailed map of your shoreline isyour most valuable tool in building adock. For one thing, while I’m sure youare a very nice person, you probably don’twant to build your neighbours a dock,which can happen when your carefullyconstructed masterpiece ends up on thewrong side of a property line (it happens).
Also, no matter where your water-front is located, chances are you will
need to get approval from at least onegovernment agency, probably several.Having a map of your site, with the
4
T H E D O C K P R I M E R
GETTING STARTED
Before you pick up a hammer, pickup a pencil and make a detailed
site plan of your waterfront.
The most common dock shape isthe rectangle. It is, after all, thesimplest and most economicalshape to build. But often there
are better choices, both from the shore-line’s perspective and that of our cottagewish list. The neat thing is that most vari-ations are based on the rectangle, oftenwith one or more rectangular sectionsjoined together to make a more stable,useful, and attractive dock.
In most cases, dock sta-bility increases with size. It’ssimply a matter of percent-ages – the bigger the dock,the smaller the impact yourvisit, or nature’s tantrumsfor that matter, will have onit. But it’s also true that asdock size increases, so toodoes the risk of harmingnature. All docks possessthe potential to disruptcurrents enough to erodesubmerged lands andshorelines (including thosebelonging to your neigh-bours), increase the shadingof submerged lands, anddisturb submerged lands viaa dock’s seemingly benignfootprint, all of which candestroy aquatic flora anddestroy fish habitat and
spawning areas. Then there’s the connec-tion of dock to shoreline and dock tocottage, both of which are no sloucheswhen it comes to disrupting that delicateecological balance. The bigger the dock,the greater the potential for mayhem.“Bigger” also costs more to construct andmaintain. So big docks are bad, right?Maybe. The problem is, build a dock toosmall and not only is stability compro-
mised, it might also fail toserve your needs. That’s whythat map of your shoreline isso important – it makes iteasier for both you and thevarious approval authoritiesto choose the dock best suit-ed to both your shorelineand your needs.
The needs part of theequation is your wish list.The list tells you what activ-ities are envisioned for thedock, and these often dic-tate minimum size require-ments. For instance, whileconsidered small craft, bothsailboards and canoes canbecome serious dock hogswhen out of water, demand-ing plenty of deck-acreageto swing around and launch.And things only get worseshould Aunt Mabel demand
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T H E D O C K P R I M E R
A SHORELINE NAMED DESIRE
At this stage, what you have is the“before” plan, the shoreline as it existsprior to any dock additions. Now, lookinto the future – not at structures, but atuses. Remember that the dock only facil-itates your needs. Make a wish list ofshoreline desires. Perhaps you need aplace to moor the boat. (How big is it?)Or perhaps a place to swim, fish, launcha canoe, and sunbathe. Or maybe just aspot to sit and watch the world drift by.Or any combination of the above andmore. Your needs and what you have inthe way of waterfront property shoulddictate the shape, size, and type of dock,not what the local lumberyard happensto have in stock. Obviously, finances alsoplay a role, but as we will see, docks areusually modular devices, allowing you toadd and rearrange dock sections overtime. So rather than compromise yourdreams with some substandard fright thekids love to useas a floating
roller coaster and older members of thefamily refuse to board, complete yourdream in stages as your finances permit.
Any successful shoreline structure alsopays homage to its surroundings. Thebody of water fronting your propertyexists because of a delicate balance innature that has evolved over many mil-lenniums. That narrow band of earthknown as the shoreline – an interdepen-dent conglomerate that includes thewater and both exposed and submergedlands – is the most ecologically sensitivepiece of the planet most of us are likelyto encounter. It’s also the reason wehave chosen to inhabit this small pieceof planet earth. Unfortunately, anythingwe do at or near the shoreline willinevitably disrupt the balance, some-times destroying not only the shoreline,but also water quality and many of thecountless plants and animals that dependon that shore area for existence. Thegoal in successful dock building is not toeliminate our impact – an impossiblegoal – but to minimize that impact. The
preservation of a shoreline’scharm and abundant life, andthe realization of our water-front dreams, need not be
mutually exclusive goals. Witha bit of planning and use of good
dock-building practices, it can bea single, shared goal.
6
G e t t i n g S t a r t e d
THE SHAPE OF THINGS TO COME
L-shape
U-shape
T-shape
DOCK SHAPES
BETWEEN A DOCK AND A HARD PLACE
The main problem docks experi-ence is one shared with everythingelse in the universe: entropy. Or theidea that nothing lasts forever. Wood,metal, plastic, concrete – all the basicingredients of dock building – and evennature’s own bedrock, are all under con-tinual assault from two very destructiveforces – stress and decay. The deleteri-ous effects of stress (the result, say, ofvisiting boaters bashing into the dock, ornature hurling up huge waves, or springice pounding at your shoreline) can bereduced by distributing the loads. Fora dock to survive to its maximum lifeexpectancy, all loads must be shared byas much of the structure as possible.That’s construction rule number one.
Decay is often a keen partner to stresswhen it comes to destruction. Woodrots, plastic degrades, concrete spalls andcracks, metal corrodes, rock erodes – it’sall part of nature’s regenerative process.
Generally, decay thrives in an envi-ronment of warmth, a little moisture,and a little oxygen, all readily availableat your local shoreline. Too much ornot enough of any of these ingredientsand decay moderates its attack. Thesecret to longevity, therefore, is to takeadvantage of this weakness, using gooddesign and appropriate materials to dis-courage the onset and growth of decay.That’s construction rule number two.
DOCK MATERIALISM
WOOD Wood is the most common ele-ment in residential dock construction. It’srelatively easy to work with, reasonablypriced, and has some “give,” allowing itto bend slightly under duress. It’s also atits strongest under short-term loads(such as when your neighbour Phil clob-
bers the dock with his new ski boat), adecided advantage to waterfront struc-tures. And things made of wood are usu-ally easy to rebuild should nature provethe better of humanity once again.
On the other hand, wood is at itsworst down at the waterfront – wetand fat one moment, dry and skinnythe next. Therefore, joining pieces ofwood in dock building requires differ-ent techniques than the acceptedpractices of house carpentry.
The preferred deck woods for dockbuilding are western red cedar, redwood,cypress, and eastern white cedar (in thatorder), all of which offer reasonablelongevity and beauty. For most docks,that’s also the preferred structural list,but for dock cribs and permanent piles,stronger woods, such as Douglas fir,hemlock, and tamarack (in that order)are a better choice. Unfortunately, thisgroup is not as resistant to rot as thefirst. For permanent piles, western larch,pine, and even spruce can be used if firis not available.
The downside of opting for the pre-ferred species, such as western red cedar,
9
unobstructed sitting room for her and herfavourite deck chair while all this is tak-ing place. That said, if your shorelineincludes a usable beach (check yourmap if you forgot), some things – suchas swimming zones and sailboard stor-age, may be best assigned to the beach,reducing demands on dock size. However(dock planning has no shortage of “how-evers”), if big boats are in the picture,there’s little point in opting for a smalldock. Should nature make waves, andthe dock isn’t up to snuff, it’s goodbye toboth dock and boat. If the shoreline hasno usable beach – where water and landmeet at a steep cliff, for example – thedock then takes on the role of a beach.
THE LIMITS TO THIN
With the exception of finger docks (we’llget to them later), 3' is the practical min-imum width for any dock. You need thatmuch room for two people to pass with-out risking one, or both, being bumpedinto the drink. Also, as you will see inour discussion of the various dock types,most docks have minimumsize requirements andstability suffers if youtry to go smaller.
If your needs aremodest (perhaps inrare harmony withyour budget), thebasic rectangle maybe your best option.However, byadding a secondrectangular sec-tion perpendic-ular to the firstdock (at thedeep end), theresulting T-shape or L-shape adds
to dock stability – like training wheels ona bicycle – and the shapes created helpto define designated activity areas. Forexample, one end of a T-shape could beset aside for sunbathing, while splashingand diving are moved to the other end.The shapes can also “capture” protectedareas of water for the mooring boats orto create a children’s wading area.
Breaking away from the basic rectan-gle allows us to direct foot and boattraffic, and activity patterns, reducingdock congestion. Therefore, less deck-acreage is required to accomplish thesame goals. This means less cost, lessimpact on the environment, and usuallymakes for a more attractive shoreline.And, as a bonus, those additional rec-tangles can be added or subtracted overtime as needs – and finances – change.
What shouldn’t be considered forbudgetary reasons are finger docks.Finger docks are long and skinny rec-tangles that run out from a much largermain dock or breakwall. They aredesigned to provide the maximumnumber of slips (stalls to moor a boat)
in a given area, not to save onconstruction costs.
Because of thereduced width(sometimes downto a foot), fingerdocks wigglearound just likefingers and pro-vide wobbly
access to boats,but not much else.
If your activity listdemands greater ver-
satility, or you don’trelish that impending
doom feeling of a tippydock, stay away from
finger docks.
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T H E D O C K P R I M E R
While realwood shouldbe used foryour dock’sframing, plas-tic lumber canbe an excellentchoice for decking. When installedproperly, it can offer a long working life.
T h e S h a p e o f T h i n g s t o
CEDAR
PLASTIC
PRESSURE-TREATED
PLASTIC Plastic has become acommon building material fordocks. Compared to mostwoods, metals, or concrete,the types of plastic used indock construction are rela-tively low in strength andlack hardness, which rulesthem out for structuralduties. Plastic is, however,the primary material fordock floats and when sup-ported by an appropriatestructure – typically madefrom wood, metal, or con-crete – plastic materials canbe used for decking. Plastic isalso waterproof and decay-resistant, a decided advantagewhen it comes to dockconstruction.
The cost of plasticdecking usually fits some-where between cedar andpressure-treated wood,although some variations aremore expensive than even thepreferred species of wood deck-ing. Typically, plastic deck-ing comes in traditional“planks” of solid polyethyl-ene (PE), extrusions madefrom polyvinylchloride(PVC), and compositesof recycled PE and woodbyproducts. Unfortunately,all plastic decking has apropensity to sag, which means thatdecking cannot extend across the spansof traditional dock designs (check withthe decking’s manufacturer).
Plastic decking is more fragile thanwood and more prone to splitting duringinstallation (so follow the instructions),but when installed properly, it can cer-tainly offer long life.
HARDWARE
I cannot stress enough theimportance of good hardware
in building docks. Dock hard-ware is that bewildering array
of metal brackets (usually steel)used to brace corners and joints,connect dock and ramp sections,hold the legs of pipe docks in
place, and basically addstrength to any dock con-
nection under load. Techni-cally, it doesn’t fasten stuff together; it leaves that task
to the nails, screws, nuts, and bolts.Instead, once secured in place with
nuts and bolts and the like, dockhardware shares and transfersloads, diminishing stress at cru-
cial junctures. Joints that arenailed or screwed together without
the benefit of dock hardwarewill inevitably pull apart.
It doesn’t make senseto waste your time andmoney on second-ratehardware – whetherit ’s your own creation(sorry), a piece of metalconscripted for a duty itwasn’t designed for (suchas barn-door hinges usedto join sections of dock),or even most hardwaresold from mass-merchan-dising outlets. Whether
you’re buying individual pieces oracquiring the hardware as part of a com-pleted dock or in a kit, buy your hard-ware from an established dock builder.It’s an expense you’ll never regret.
As for fasteners, screws and bolts holda dock together much better than nails.The extra cost is minimal, but the increasein strength is not.
11
is cost. It may last longer than otherspecies, but it’s also becomingincreasingly expensive. Granted,that could be said for alltypes of wood. Certainly,the better decking species,being naturally resistantto rot, will outlast speciessuch as spruce, but whatif the bank account won’taccept that logic anddemands a cheaper solution?That’s when we compromise.One way to do this – alreadymentioned – is to reduce the deckacreage. Or we can try to extendthe life of lesser grades of wood.
Unfortunately, the standard route towood preservation – paint and stain – isnot the answer for docks. Any coatingyou put on a dock will fade, blister, andpeel. Not only will this look terrible, butdamaged coatings also trap water, creat-ing an ideal spot for a wood-destroyingfungi family to take up housekeeping. Soyou can either scrape and re-coat thedock every few years or use preferredwood species and do as many dockbuilders advise – let the wood go natu-rally grey, an option that suits myminimal-work ethic just fine.
PRESSURE TREATING But we’renot out of the protected woods yet.There’s still pressure-treated spruceor pine, that Kermit-greenalternative seen oncountless decks, jun-gle gyms, and subur-ban retaining walls.Pressure-treated pine orspruce is about 20–30%less expensive than thepreferred decking species,such as cedar, but becausethe grades of lumber set
aside for treatment areusually low, pressure-treat-ed wood is typically moresusceptible to warping andcracking when exposed toweather than the untreateddecking species, and evensome of the structural
species, such as fir. Mostof the problem wood
is labelled S-GRN(the chemicalsapplied when thewood is wet withsap, and therefore
not as absorbent);pressure-treated wood
labelled S-DRY is typically ofmuch better quality and longer lasting,but also more expensive.
Because it can leach chemicals intothe environment, pressure-treated woodis banned for waterfront use in someareas and, in all cases, constructionshould take place well back from theshoreline, with the finished dock beingleft to thoroughly dry and “age”
before being launched intothe water. Working with
pressure-treated wood ismore difficult, the saw-
dust considered toxic,and each cut endmust be sealed withan approved preser-
vative, all of whichexposes the builder (not to
mention the flora and fauna living inthe water) to some nasty chemicals.
A reasonable compromise is touse pressure-treated wood forthe structure of the dock, keep-
ing the preferred species for thedecking, thereby lessening theodds of exposing skin to poten-
tially harmful chemicals.
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T h e S h a p e o f T h i n g s t o C o m eT H E D O C K P R I M E R
High-quality hardware,like galvanized cornerbrackets, heavy-dutyhinges, and corrosionresistant nuts, bolts, andscrews is crucial if youwant a long-lasting dock.
wide, low, and heavy. The consensusamong dock builders is that 6' x 20' is theminimum size for a stable floater, this sin-gle section weighing in at about 1,000 lbs,minimum. And bigger is even better.
As usual, the drawbacks to bigger areincreased initial cost, increased labour toinstall (and remove) and, of course,greater impact on the shoreline’s ecosys-tem. A pipe dock – which can be madesmaller and still remain stable – may be apreferable choice in shallow water.
In areas where ice conditions prohibita four-season solution, the floating dock
offers the advantage that it can beremoved from the water in the fall andreplaced in the spring (albeit with nosmall effort in some cases). That said,many floaters are left in all year wherewave action and ice conditions permit.
In addition to size and shape, float typeand float location also contribute to stabili-ty. A discussion of float types is beyond thescope of this booklet (see “Further Read-ing,” p. 22) but as a general rule, installingfloats towards the perimeter of the dock,rather than set back towards the dock’scentre line, greatly enhances stability.
13
Although nature considers all docks to be removable,floating docks and pipe docksare the only ones cottagers
usually consider removing, either forrepairs or to protect the dock from theravages of winter ice and spring breakup.Given Canada’s climate, that meansremovable docks are extremely popular.
REMOVABLE DOCKS
Floating docks The people’s choiceaward goes to floating docks. Floatingdocks are relatively easy and economicalto build, adaptable to most shorelinesand, because they are held up by thewater, the distance between the top ofthe dock’s deck and the surface of thewater – known as freeboard – remainsdarn near constant, varying only withdock load and high seas (both variancesbeing minimal on a well-designed andwell-built floater). And because afloating dock is not dependent onsubmerged lands to hold it up,there is no maximum waterdepth that prevents its use.
From an environmentalperspective, floatingdocks cause minimaldirect disruption to sub-merged lands; typicallyfrom the small areas dis-
turbed by anchors, spuds, or pilings (themost popular ways to moor a floatingdock in place). In fact, if secured to theshore only, there may be no contact withsubmerged lands at all. However, floatingdocks can block sunlight to aquatic plants– destroying fish habitat – and they mayalso cause the erosion of shorelines.
So, floating docks won’t work every-where. For instance, a floater must havesufficient draft to keep its floats resting onwater, rather than bumping into sub-merged lands (which can harm both thedock and aquatic habitat). A depth of 3'(measured at the low-water mark) is thenormal accepted minimum, however, lessmay be possible if the water level nevervaries and the area is not subjected toharsh wave action.
Floating docks often lack stability.Not that it isn’t possible tomake a stable floater – hun-dreds of good designs exist,
some so stable a usercould mistake the dockunderfoot for a water-front boardwalk. Unfor-tunately, the stable ofstability disasters is evengreater. But it ain’t thedock’s fault, folks, it’s
bad construction practices.When it comes to stability, a floatingdock works best when it’s made long,
12
T H E D O C K P R I M E R
DOCK TYPES
For maximum stability, a floatingdock should beheavily built andsolidly anchored.
D o c k Ty p e s
Pipe docks If you can imagine a 4' widewooden ramp, sitting about a foot abovethe water, supported by long skinny legsrunning from the ramp down to sub-merged land, you’ve just mentally built apipe dock. Building one in reality is onlya little more difficult, and not a lot moreexpensive (pipe docks are typically theleast costly dock option). And becausemost of the dock sits out of water, withcontact with land and shading of aquaticplants held to a minimum, a simple pipedock is typically the least disruptive tothe environment of all the dock types.
Unlike the floating dock, the pipe dock’sfreeboard varies as the water rises andfalls. Should the lake or river at yourshoreline do a gentle retreat through theseason, the pipe dock’s deck can usuallybe lowered on its legs to accommodatemoderate fluctuations in water levels,and even more extreme fluctuations cansometimes be handled by relocating thedock further out on the shoreline. (Thedock’s light weight is a real advantagehere.) Some pipe dock legscan also be fitted withwheels to make moving thedock an even easier task. Beaware that the slightestamount of ice movementcan fold up a pipe dock likean accordion, so plan onmoving the dock at leasttwice a year. Or buying anew one each spring.
Because a pipe dock’sdeck and framing remainelevated above the water,there’s very little surfacearea exposed at the water-line for nature to take awhack at. This makes thepipe dock a good candidatefor situations where plentyof surface activity is experi-
enced, such as on busy river channelswhere the wakes from passing boats maybe a problem. However, with waves pass-ing under the dock unobstructed, anyboat moored to the opposite side will beexposed to the full brunt of wave action.This makes a pipe dock a poor choice forcreating protected areas.
Severe wave action can put some ofthe lighter aluminum pipe docks at risk.However, lighter construction alsomeans less labour to install and removethe dock, and less initial cost to pur-chase. And in the right situation – a pro-tected bay for instance – a lightweightpipe dock is certainly up to the task ofmooring smaller boats. For larger vesselsand harsher wave action, boat lifts ormarine railways are a better choice. (Formore information about these options,see The Dock Manual.)
Because a pipe dock is propped up onlegs, it can be built smaller than a float-ing dock yet still remain stable. Thebasic rule for pipe docks is that the
15
D o c k Ty p e sT H E D O C K P R I M E R
Where ice and currents permit, rock-filled cribs canmake a solid dock foundation.
14
Because they have littlecontact with submerged
lands, pipe docks are easyon the aquatic environment.
above the high-water mark,using the strength of the cribas an anchor or attachmentpoint for other structuressuch as floating docks, can-tilever docks or pipe docks.
From an environmentalperspective, cribs aren’t themost destructive kind of dock(see “Concrete pier,” below).But because a crib coversa large area of submergedground, essentially smother-ing anything beneath it, crib-based docks often claim aclose second on the list ofbad-guy installations.
Concrete piers The con-crete pier is basically a big,monolithic block of cementand aggregate, bound togeth-er in apparent perpetuity, often with anintegral boat ramp. Most often, they arefound in commercial or municipal set-tings. As with crib-based docks, practicalwater depths are limited to about 8', andthe piers can be merged into shorelinesto provide a shoreline interface for othertypes of docks.
However, concrete piers are expensiveto construct, and no dock does a betterjob of disrupting the environment. Ero-sion of submerged lands at the base ofthe pier can often be a problem too.And unlike the slatted sides of the crib,the concrete pier provides no substitutehome for refugee aquatic life. In most
cases, there are better solutionsfor residential docks.
Permanent pile docksThe permanent pile dock is aheavyweight, long-term versionof the pipe dock – still a rampon long legs, but definitely notportable. Instead of resting onthe surface of submerged lands(as the legs of pipe docks do),long poles of wood or tubes ofsteel or plastic – all referred toas piles – are sunk into planetearth, either by force or bybeing set in pre-drilled holes.
17
D o c k Ty p e s
width of the dock should be at least 3'and never less than the depth of thewater. Because stability suffers as legsget longer, about 6'-7' is considered themaximum water depth for pipe dockinstallations. Choose one of the otherdock types – such as a floating dock –for deeper water.
PERMANENT DOCKS
Residential permanent docks (as opposedto commercial wharves) can be divviedup into three categories: crib docks, con-crete piers, and permanent pile docks.The term “permanent dock” is more areflection of objective than reality,because permanence is not a conceptrecognized by nature. Shifting ice cantopple cribs, lift piles right out of sub-merged land, and push concrete piers uponto shore. However, blessed with soundconstruction techniques and the appro-priate conditions, a permanent dock canbe made nature resistant, perhaps servingfaithfully for several generations.
Because freeboard will vary with fluctu-ations in water level, permanent docks areoften used in conjunction with floatingdocks, the floaters attached to the morepermanent structure in a manner thatpermits the floater to move up and downin concert with changing water levels.
Crib docks A “crib” is a container. Itcould hold farm produce, or a child thathopefully will soon go to sleep or, in thecontext of waterfront construction, a fewtons of rock and stone. Cribs should notbe confused with gabions. Gabions areinexpensive wire or plastic mesh basketsdesigned to hold stones, rock, or concrete,the baskets wired together to serve asunattractive retaining walls. At first glance,they may seem like a good idea for dockbuilding, but time has proven gabions tobe better at tearing skin than retainingrock under siege by strong currents,waves, and ice, all of which will distortthe basket’s shape, causing the gabion tosag and flatten (along with your bankaccount when you replace them).
A proper crib is made from new,square-cut timber, not wire or driftwoodor round logs tacked together with smallnails and hope. (Occasionally, steel orconcrete castings are used in lieu ofwood.) The timbers are assembled inopposing pairs, one pair laid out on topof the next, creating a slatted, box-likeaffair boasting an integral floor. Threadedrods run the full height in each cor-ner to secure the timbers in place.The box is then filled with rock, pro-viding the bulk necessary to face offagainst nature. (Of course nobody – noteven Gretzky – wins every faceoff.)
Maximum water depth for a crib isabout 8'. For optimum stability (requiredto fend off attacks from nature morethan humanity), a crib’s total heightshould at least equal its total width.Obviously, this can make for a very largecontainer, which in turn needs a ton ormore of rock to fill. And all of this rockmust be taken from onshore sources, notfrom close-at-hand submerged lands(which would disrupt fish habitat). Forthis reason, and from an environmentalstandpoint, cribs work best when placed
16
T H E D O C K P R I M E R
Concrete piers are expensive andenvironmentally destructive.
Sunk deep in the ground,piles made of wood, steel,or plastic make a greatbase for a stable dock.
Cantilever docksdon’t disturb the water orsubmerged lands.
cantilever and suspension docks are notthe answer for locations that experienceextreme water level fluctuations.
Both dock types have practical lim-its to the length of overhang: About8' for cantilever docks (which normallyequates to a minimum of 16' of onshoredecking), and about 50' for the suspen-sion dock. Greater distances are notconsidered cost effective.
A short cantilevered overhang ofabout 1'–2' can work very well alongbulkheads, cribs, and the like. And whena large, shore-based deck is desirable(such as over a boulder-strewn shore-line), the cantilever dock again becomesa reasonable option.
Cantilever and suspension docks causethe least disruption to the water or sub-merged lands – it’s difficult to disruptwhat you don’t touch. However, as withfloating docks, the resulting shading ofthe aquatic environment could be delete-rious to aquatic life. Also, both dock
types will disturb the shoreline, particu-larly the cantilever dock, which in turnhas the potential to disrupt both aquaticand land-based life.
Lift docks These come in three flavours– lift pipe docks, lift floating docks, andlift suspension docks – each based on itsnon-lifting parent. The freeboard of eachis the same as for non-lifting versions.
In concept, the lift dock appears tofunction much like the classic draw-bridge. Yet while the drawbridge washistorically raised to protect the castlefrom unwanted weekend guests, the liftdock gets raised for its own protection,hoisting it up out of reach of winter ice.(Although I suppose a lift dock couldstill be used in the traditional sense ifunwanted guests arrive by boat.)
Size restrictions and environmentalimpact for the three versions of liftdocks are the same as for their non-lift-ing counterparts.
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Either way, because of the heavy-dutyequipment required, a pile dock is notthe stuff of home workshop projects.
Piles should always be braced toprevent sway, and although there areno theoretical limits to depth, if theexposed portion of the pile extends 25'or more above supportive soil, con-struction costs will skyrocket.
The permanent pile dock shares manyof the environmental advantages of thepipe dock – minimal contact with sub-merged lands, free flow of water under-neath, and the ability to build a relativelynarrow dock that is still quite stable.
Specialty docks Specialty docks includecantilever docks, suspension docks,and lift docks. These docks can bedramatic to behold, and expensive topurchase. Some design and constructionsimilarities exist between specialty docksand the docks discussed above, but spe-cialty docks are more complex, typicallymaking their construction and installa-tion beyond the skills of even many pro-fessional dock builders. So these are notdocks that lend themselves well to theaverage tinkerer.
Cantilever and suspension docks Thecantilever dock works in the same man-ner as an overhanging apartment build-ing balcony: the dock’s frame stretchesfrom shore over the fulcrum point andthen out over the water. The maximumlength of the dock, and what proportionof that length is land-based, is deter-mined by how well the land-based end– the end that supports the load – istagged to the shore. Customarily, a can-tilevered dock requires 2' of onshoredock for every 1' hanging beyond thefulcrum, although I have seen cantileverdocks incorporated into wood bulkheads(walls built parallel to, and usually at, theshoreline) using a leverage ratio as littleas 1' on shore for every 1' of overhang,and even less when the land-based endis embedded into a concrete bulkheador solid bedrock.
The suspension dock, on the otherhand, has more in common with a mas-sive suspension bridge than an apart-ment balcony. Picture half a GoldenGate Bridge. But instead of connectingtwo bits of land together, it connectsone bit of land to water and your boat.What you get is the Golden Gate Dock.
Unlike the cantilever dock,a suspension dock’s deck doesnot rely on large chunks ofshoreline for support. Instead,a rectangular tower holds upa pair of cables anchored wellback on shore to keep thedeck suspended over the water(just like the entrance to theaforementioned bridge). Bothcantilever and suspensiondocks sit completely out ofthe water, so neither dockdemands a minimum depthof water for installation. Andbecause freeboard will varywith water level fluctuations,
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T H E D O C K P R I M E R
With its decking removed, a lift pipe dock can simply bewinched up in the air to escapedamage from winter ice.
A tower and thick cables keep asuspension dock up in the air.
D o c k Ty p e s
The approval process beginswith you. Makes sense; it is,after all, your dock. With themap of your shoreline and
your wish list of shoreline desires spreadout on the kitchen table, use whatyou’ve learned about dock shapes andtypes from Sections 2 and 3 to look for
solutions. How will a dock workhere? Perhaps it would be better
at the opposite end of theshoreline? Based on the ter-
rain – both submergedand above-water –
what type of dock isbest for both you
and the envi-ronment?
What shape of dock will best accommo-date your wish list of activities? Makecopies of your original site map and letmembers of the family explore differentsolutions. When a consensus has beenarrived at (through democratic processor dictatorial rule), the next step is to getapproval from whatever governmentagencies might take an interest in yourproposed dock.
Fisheries and Oceans Canada (DFO)has the responsibility to protect fishhabitat anywhere in Canada. And sinceshoreline alterations can affect the lifeand times of a fish, your dock fallsunder the jurisdiction of the DFO. Nat-urally, this being Canada, the provinceshave also got into the act (the FisheriesAct, to be specific), as have regional
Conservation Authorities. Perhapsit doesn’t need saying, but when it
comes to getting approval for anykind of shoreline work it’s alwaysbest to start at the bottom and workup. So in Ontario, your first stop for
approval should be the local Con-servation Authority, then the
Ministry of Natural Resources(MNR), and finally the DFO.
You may not have to talk to eachof these agencies separately. For
instance, some Conservation Authori-ties may handle the entire process onbehalf of the others, or the MNR may
do it all, but the only surefire way to find out is to ask (seethe contact infor-mation onp. 23). It’s also impor-tant to remember thatsome municipalitiesnow require buildingpermits for dock con-struction, so you’ll needto check there too.
The size, shape, andlocation of your dock – orperhaps even whether youcan have one at all – will allcome under review by thepowers that be, so don’t besurprised if you’re asked tomake some changes. But mak-ing adjustments at this stage –when your dock is still in erasablepencil on paper – is much easierand more economical than alteringthe finished work. And, of course, fineshave yet to be imposed for noncon-forming plans (at least at the time ofthis writing).
TIPS FOR EASING THE PROCESS
Begin the mapping and designingprocess in the summer when you canaccurately assess current and proposedwaterfront activities. Present your planto government agencies in the winteror late fall when those in charge ofapprovals have the time to look at yourproposal and suggest alternatives shouldthere be a problem. Waiting until springto talk to the government gang couldresult in long delays before your plan iseven considered, and don’t expect muchpersonal attention. By getting all thepaperwork taken care of when the lake isfrozen, you could be building your dockin the spring and sipping lemonade on its
deck by summer. Having a shorelinemap, photos, and a well thought outplan eases a bureaucrat’s job (and they’reall overworked, remember), which in turnwill definitely improve the odds of gettinga timely “okay” to proceed.
And no lemonade tastes sweeter thanthat sipped from a deck chair on yourown dock, while your mind drifts withthe breeze. Now, let’s see…maybe an L-section attached to the end would justbe enough to get the chair out into thesun. That’s the other thing about docks– when construction stops, invariablythe wish list begins anew.
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T H E D O C K P R I M E R
THE APPROVAL PROCESS
T h e A p p r o v a l P r o c e s s
MOST WELL-STOCKED BOOKSTORES WILL
either carry, or can order, any of thepublications listed below.
•Cottage Life magazine, 54 St. Patrick St.,Toronto, ON M5T 1V1
Published six times a year, Cottage Lifeis an excellent source of information foranyone owning, or even renting, residen-tial waterfront property.
Phone: 416-599-2000Fax: 416-599-0500E-mail: [email protected]
•Cottage Water Systems, Max Burns, Cottage Life Books, Toronto, ON ISBN 0-9696922-0-X
Not about docks, but if preservingyour bit of God’s country is importantto you, this is the best book availablefor people living or vacationing onproperty not serviced by municipalsewers and water (the situation formany waterfront residences). The bookdiscusses where to find water, whatcould be in it, how to get the waterinto the cottage or house, pumps, watertreatment, sewage treatment, outhouses,alternative toilets, and even how tocope with your plumbingwhen the world aroundyou is white and frozen.(Contact info same as forCottage Life magazine.)
•Docks & Projects, Cottage Life Books,Toronto, ON ISBN 0-9696922-1-8
A compendium of fun and usefulthings to make at the cottage, fromdeck chairs and loon nesting platformsto games, snow huts, and much more.It features docks, too, with completeplans for two floaters. The portion ondock building was written by me andsubsequently expanded and updated inThe Dock Manual. (Contact info thesame as for Cottage Life magazine.)
•The Dock Manual, Max Burns, StoreyBooks, Pownal, VT ISBN 1-58017-098-6
The only book dedicated to residentialdocks. All topics are covered in detail,from site planning to every dock typeand the many variations available.Includes extensive how-to sections withlists of required tools and materials. Alsofeatures sections on mooring a dock,shore access (ramps), winterizing, boatlifts, and marine railways. There are alsoten sets of plans and a list of suppliersand dock builders – everything you needto know in order to build the best dock
for you and your shoreline.Storey BooksPhone: 800-793-9396Fax: 802-823-5819E-mail: [email protected] site: www.storey.com
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T H E D O C K P R I M E R
FURTHER READING
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COTTAGE LIFE
54 St. Patrick Street, Toronto, ON M5T 1V1
416-599-2000 fax: 416-599-0800
E-mail: [email protected]
FISHERIES AND OCEANS CANADA
Fish Habitat Management Program – Ontario,
Referrals Coordinator,
867 Lakeshore Rd., Burlington ON L7R 4A6
905-336-4595 fax: 905-336-6285
E-mail: [email protected]
ONTARIO MINISTRY OF NATURAL RESOURCES
Lands and Water Section,
300 Water St., Box 700,
Peterborough, ON K9J 8M5
705-755-1694 fax: 705-755-1267
E-mail: [email protected]
Web site: www.mnr.gov.on.ca
CONSERVATION ONTARIO
120 Bayview Parkway,
Box 11, Newmarket, ON L3Y 4W3
905-895-0716 fax: 905-895-0751
E-mail: [email protected]
Web-site: www.trca.on.ca
(This Web-site for the Toronto region lists contact info
for Ontario’s 38 Conservation Authorities. Click the
link for “Things you should know about us.”)
CONTACTS
FEDERATION OF ONTARIO COTTAGERS’ ASSOCIATIONS
