The French Way - HAE International (HAEi)1,000 m) on a route leading to the nearby ranges of Os Ancares and O Courel, rich in elements related to ethnography, nature and landscape,

The French WayThe Pilgrims’ Ways to Santiago in Galicia

PORTADAS en INGLES.qxp:30X21 26/08/09 12:50 Página 3

TextsManuel Rodríguez

EditingAna B. FreireRosa García

Documentation:pilgrims’ hostels and servicesPilar CuíñaRosa FernándezAna B. FreireRosa GarcíaCoroni Rubio

PhotographyArquivo da S.A. de Xestión do Plan XacobeoTono Arias

Technical adviceDpto. de Arquitectura da S.A. de Xestión do Plan Xacobeo

RevisionDori AbuínCarla Fernández-RefoxoCarmo IglesiasAlfonso Salgueiro

TranslationInterlingua Traduccións S.L.Claire Teed Olson

Revision and updatingCarraig Linguistic Services

Design and Lay-outPermuy Asociados

PrintingLITONOR

D.L.: C 2648-2009

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3 The French Way

The French Way is the most traditional of all the pilgrims’ waysto Santiago and the best known internationally. The route,which crosses the north of the Iberian Peninsula, wasestablished in the late 11th century thanks to the efforts ofmonarchs like Sancho III the Greater and Sancho Ramírezde Navarra y Aragón, as well as Alphonse VI and hissuccessors, who took care of its construction andpromotion. The principal routes of the Way in France and Spain were described in detail around the year1135 in the Codex Calixtinus, an essential referencework providing details of the pilgrimage tradition.

Book V of this codex is a bona-fide medievalguide describing the pilgrimage toSantiago. It enumerates the differentstretches of the French Way from thelands of Gaul and offers detailedinformation on the sanctuaries to befound along the way, including commentson the hospitality, the people, the food,natural springs, local customs, etc. The entire work is written clearly and succinctly, a practical answer to a specific demand: the pilgrimage to Santiago.

This guide, attributed to the French cleric, AymericPicaud, reveals the political and religious interest thatlay behind promoting the sanctuary of Santiagode Compostela and making it easily

accessible, yet it also bears testimony to thedemand for this type of information. At the

time of the writing of this book, the FrenchWay and the pilgrimages reached their heyday

and maximum stream of visitors –not countingthe present time– Santiago became the goal of

all pilgrims from the entire Christian world. This surge of pilgrims was so intense that it

prompted a Moslem Ambassador to comment

The French Way

Codex Calixtinus (XII c.)


that “the throng of worshippers who travel to Santiago andback is so great that there is almost no room left on the roadleading to the west”.

Over the centuries and with the political and religious avatarsin Europe, the physical route of the French Way lost much of itsformer influence. Indeed, it was not until the end of the 19thcentury that there was a resurgence of interest in the questionof Saint James and the pilgrimage way, which continued intothe second half of the 20th century, with the progressiverestoration and recovery of the ancient way internationallyrecognised as one of the historical symbols of European unity.

Itineraries

The French Way acquired a specific itinerary in France throughthe four main routes described in the Codex Calixtinus. Three of these routes (París-Tours, Vézelay-Limoges and Le Puy-Conques) enter Spain after crossing the Pyreneesthrough Roncesvalles, in Navarra, while the fourth route (Arlés-Toulouse) crosses the border over the Somport pass and continues on to Jaca, in the region of Aragón. The Roncesvalles route, which goes through the city of Pamplona,joins the Aragonese route in Puente la Reina (Navarra).

Santiago Cathedral prior to the constructionof the current Baroque facade (XVII c.)

Bridge over the River Garonne. Toulouse


From Puente la Reina onwards, the French Way follows a singleroute as far as the city of Santiago, passing through cities andtowns of note in the north of Spain such as Estella, Logroño, SantoDomingo de la Calzada, Burgos, Castrojeriz, Frómista, Carrión de losCondes, Sahagún, León, Astorga, Ponferrada and Villafranca del Bierzo.

The Bierzo region, which, throughout history has enjoyed strong tieswith Galicia, is the gateway to Galicia for this French Way, a territory,described by Aymeric Picaud as being “abundant in woods and thecountryside is pleasant with its rivers, meadows and rich apple orchards,its excellent fruit and pristine fountains; cities, towns and farmlands arefew and far between. It is lacking in wheat bread and wine, but aboundsin rye bread and cider, cattle and horses, milk and honey, in fish from thesea both large and small; it is rich in gold and silver and in cloth and thepelts of wild animals. It has other riches, most notably Saracentreasures”. Twenty-first century pilgrims will be able to see for themselveswhat remains and what has changed in this narration, caught halfwaybetween reality and legend.

The pages that follow highlight the peculiarities of this route as it travelsthrough the lands of Galicia.

The Aragón Way in Irache

Quintana Square. Santiago de Compostela

5 The French Way


The French Way crosses over into Galicia from El Bierzo, after leavingFerrerías, and begins its arduous climb surrounded by a spectacularlandscape of mountains, passing through the villages of La Faba andLaguna de Castilla, until it reaches the mountain pass of O Cebreiro (1,300 m), located in the province of Lugo. One kilometre outside this townstands a small monument announcing that the route is entering Galicia.There are 152 kilometres left before reaching Santiago de Compostela.

On the elevation of O Cebreiro stands the village of the same name. It has a tradition dating back to protohistoric times and has adapted to theharsh climatic conditions of the mountains. The centre of this mythical andsymbolic village includes the sanctuary of Santa María a Real do Cebreiroand the building that formerly housed the old pilgrim hospital, foundedby the French saint Giraldo de Aurillac (9th century).

The Pre-Romanesque church is the oldest on the French Way and was oneof the first monuments on the Way to be restored in the early 1960s.Santa María do Cebreiro houses liturgical objects and the sacred remainsof a famous eucharistic miracle (14th century) in which the species becameflesh and blood in the presence of a local parishioner. The symbolism ofthis miracle, which is related to the legend of the Holy Grail, became partof the coat of arms of Galicia.

O Cebreiro – Triacastela

The Miracle of O Cebreiro Chalice

Shrine of Santa María a Real do Cebreiro


O Cebreiro is also a major ethnographic site. Its principal landmark is thegroup of pallozas, small dwellings of Pre-Roman origin, circular in shape,which are characteristic of the northwest part of the Iberian Peninsula.For years they have been used as community and cultural centres andone of them houses the ethnographic museum. O Cebreiro also has oneof the most popular hostels for pilgrims along the way.

From O Cebreiro, continuing along through the mountains (altitude over1,000 m) on a route leading to the nearby ranges of Os Ancares andO Courel, rich in elements related to ethnography, nature and landscape,the traveller reaches Hospital da Condesa. This route covers 6 kilometresthat end in a village whose name is reminiscent of the centre ofassistance founded at the end of the 9th century by Doña Egido. A littlefarther on lies the village of Padornelo, which formerly belonged to themedieval fief of the Church of Santiago, where the charitable Order ofSaint John of Jerusalem was set up to care for and defend the pilgrims.

From the mountain pass at O Poio (1,337 m), the highest point on theFrench Way in Galicia, the route begins its gentle descent towardsFonfría, and from here, flanked by beautiful and lush panoramic views, it arrives at the town of Triacastela, leaving behind villages such as O Biduedo, Fillobal, Pasantes and Ramil.

View of O Cebreiro

Mount San Roque

7 The French Way


Triacastela – Sarria

Triacastela (665 m), which marks the end of one of the final stretcheson the French Way, as determined by Aymeric Picaud in the 12thcentury, still retains its urban layout based on this route. Its nameappears to allude to “three hillforts” (castros). The Middle Ages lefttheir mark with the Romanesque apse (12th century) of the Churchof Santiago. The nave, façade and bell tower of this building datefrom the 18th century. Triacastela had a hospital and even a jail forpilgrims, remains of which have been preserved to our times.

During the period when the Cathedral of Santiago was beingconstructed, some of the pilgrims would pick up small pieces of limestone from a quarry in Triacastela, which is still functioningand can be seen from the road, and carry them all the way to thelimekilns of Castañeda (Arzúa), to be used in the construction of the basilica of Santiago de Compostela.

On leaving Triacastela the Way forks. It is possible to continuedirectly on to Sarria, passing through a succession of old villageswith a long-standing pilgrimage tradition –A Balsa, San Xil,Montán, Pintín, Calvor and San Mamede do Camiño– and a rurallandscape of lush beauty with unusual examples of local flora.

Church of Santiago de Triacastela

Samos Monastery


Other pilgrims, however, prefer to head south, seeking out the hospitalityof the monks of the Benedictine Monastery of Samos, who still run the oldinn. The stretch leading to the town of Samos (530 m) offers not only theopportunity to admire the ancient monastery, but also the spectacularlandscapes bathed by the Sarria river and of villages such as San Cristovo, Renche and San Martiño. The most typical populararchitecture of the area can be found here.

The Monastery of Samos is considered to be one of the oldest in thewestern world, with its origins dating back as far as the 6th century.The first monastic community followed the ascetic doctrine of the Copticmonks of the desert, reinforced by the Rule of San Fructuoso. In the late 8thcentury the education of King Alphonse II the Chaste was entrusted toSamos, and the monarch would later assist in promoting the discovery of the tomb of Saint James, which occurred during his reign. After adoptingthe Benedictine Rule, in the year 960, the monastery started to take inpilgrims. Around the year 1000, the monks built the unusual Chapel of El Salvador, also known as the “Cypress Chapel”, after the enormouscypress tree that stands next to the chapel and which is over 1000 years old.

9 The French Way

Triacastela Hostel


In the Modern Age, the economic and cultural efforts of the monastery of Samos were the driving force behind a major architectural renovation. During this process, the Romanesque Church was replaced by a grandiose 18th century church. All that remains of the medievalconstruction is the interior porch.

The smaller cloister of the monastery, started in the late16th century, is popularly known as the “Nereidas cloister”because of the interesting Baroque fountain located inthe centre. In 1685 construction began on the greatcloister, one of the largest in Spain, and the work was notcompleted until 1746. In the centre of this cloister standsthe statue of Father Feijoo, the illustrious Benedictinemonk who resided at this monastery for a number of yearsat the end of the 17th century. Of the large collection ofaltarpieces in the monastic church, it is the mainaltarpiece, crafted by the Galician sculptor, José Ferreiro,between 1781 and 1785 that is the most noteworthy.

Regardless of whether the traveller continues on the routeof Samos or that of San Xil, both routes converge at Sarria(453 m), the most densely populated town on the FrenchWay in Galicia, with over seven thousand inhabitants. Itwas in Sarria where King Alphonse IX, founder of this townand Triacastela, died in 1230 while making a pilgrimage toSantiago de Compostela.

10

Tower of the medieval castle. Sarria

Áspera Bridge. Sarria


In this town, from its unusual rúa Maior, one can see high up in thedistance the only tower that remains of the medieval fortress belonging to the town. Around this tower, a popular fair is held three times a month a showcase for the traditional products of the area.

From its medieval past, Sarria conserves the Church of San Salvador,Romanesque in style with a Gothic façade dating from the 14th centuryand the Convent of A Magdalena (at the present time belonging to the Mercedarian Fathers), founded at the beginning of the 13th century as a pilgrim hospital by the Italian monks of the Orderof the Blessed Martyrs of Jesus, who were also pilgrims. Thepresent-day building, which houses a small, but lovely cloisterand an interesting church, is a mixture of different styles ofconstruction ranging from the 15th to the 18th centuries.

In addition to the hospital of A Magdalena in Sarria, therewere others in operation in the area, namely that of SantoAntón (16th century), of the foundation of Don Dinís deCastro, who attended to the pilgrims returning fromSantiago, and that of San Lázaro. However, there are alsorecords of others in Aguiada (Calvor), O Carballal (Vilar deSarria), Santa María (Ortoá) and Goián.

11 The French Way

Cloister of the Convent of la Magdalena. Sarria


The pilgrim leaves Sarria by crossing the old bridge of A Áspera, on theway to the church of Santiago de Barbadelo, standing some 4 kilometresaway, and after crossing one of the most magnificent ‘carballeiras’ –oakforest– on the Way. This Romanesque church, which belonged to a smallmonastery, is noteworthy because of its structure and its unusual capitals.

Travelling through a continuous mass of trees, meadows, and farmland,coming across stretches that hint at the remains of old roads, the Wayenters the municipality of Paradela. Near the village of Ferreiros standsthe 12th century Romanesque Church of Santa María with a sculptedporch composed of a triple archivolt and a lobe-shaped tympanum. There is also a small, but interesting pilgrims’ hostel that looks out overanother beautiful ‘carballeira’.

As Cortes is another parish church belonging to Paradela that stands on the Way. On its land stood the monastery of Santa María de Ribalogio. The original church, known today as Santa María de Loio, was theheadquarters of the Order of Saint James of the Sword, founded in 1170 in Extremadura under the name of “freyles de Cáceres”.

Sarria – Portomarín

Church of Santiago de Barbadelo


13 The French Way

The martial community of Cácereswas joined by the regular canons of Loio,which would account for the dual status ofclergymen and knights enjoyed by the members of the Order of Saint James.

In the midst of a sweeping landscape, the route begins its descenttowards the banks of the Miño river, where for the first and only time onthe French Way in Galicia the traveller can catch a glimpse of vineyards.To gain access to the town of Portomarín (380 m) it is necessary tocross the bridge built in the early 1960s over the Belesarreservoir, in the Miño river. Water levels permitting, in the distance it is possible to see the arches –still intact– of the old bridge over the Miño river.Also visible are the ruins of the old town ofPortomarín, which disappeared under the waters of the reservoir, even though it was one of the mostbeautiful spots in Galicia as well as being rich in heritage.

Winter pass in Peruscallo

Capital of the Church of Santiago de Barbadelo


Old Portomarín comprised the medieval hamlets of San Pedroand San Nicolás and boasted one of the most famous Roman-Medieval bridges on the route. The new Portomarín, datingback to the mid 1960s, comes into view as the pilgrimapproaches the end of the present-day viaduct.

Only part of the old manor house and the Romanesquechurches of San Pedro and San Nicolás (today San Xoán) were moved to the new location of the town. The latter churchwas built in the late 12th century by a workshop formed bydisciples of Master Mateo, creator of the Portico of Glory in theCathedral of Santiago. The main porch bears testimony to theinfluence of the famous Portico, exhibiting a similar design ofapocalyptic inspiration. The tympanum displays the Christ figureseated in a mandorla, framed by archivolts that contain thetwenty-four Elders of the Apocalypse, playing zithers and otherinstruments, and comprising the court of the Supreme Judge.

View of Portomarín


15 The French Way

The church of San Nicolás of Portomarínbelonged to the Order of the Knights ofSaint John of Jerusalem, later known asthe Order of Malta.

The Knights of Saint John protected thisstretch of the Way, as well as the bridge,and the two hospitals pertaining to thehamlet of San Pedro. They also lookedafter the hospital of San Nicolás, founded by Doña Urraca. This building,which is no longer standing, was built in1126 by Master Pedro Deustamben,known as Pedro the Pilgrim. The floor planof the hospital was based on the model ofa basilica, with three naves and an apse atthe head where the chapel was located.

In the hamlet of San Pedro there wasanother pilgrim hospital and a lepers’ wardattended by the Knights of Saint Lázarowho offered one of the most importantcharitable and humanitarian services inPortomarín in medieval times. Although thevineyards disappeared with the constructionof the Belesar reservoir, Portomarín stillproduces one of the most acclaimed eau-de-vieliqueurs in Galicia, commemorated by a popularfestival held each year.

Church of San Xoán de Portomarín


Passing through the village of Gonzar, the Way continues on toCastromaior, which takes its name from the Pre-Roman hillfort –castro–that towers over the local countryside. During the Middle Ages, the hillfort was gradually abandoned and the population settled in the areas closer to the farmlands and fields and a Romanesquechurch was erected to attend to the needs of the local worshippers.

Here the villages are spaced farther apart; Vendas de Narón, has achapel consecrated to Mary Magdalene and Os Lameiros, in themunicipality of Monterroso, is the site of the chapel of San Marcos and an interesting cruceiro –wayside cross–. A little farther on, in thetown of Ligonde, important examples of traditional architectural stylescan still be seen. There used to be a pilgrim hospital which is known to have offered lodging to Emperor Charles I and his son, Philip II, the most famous of all the 16th century pilgrims

Just a short distance away, the Way enters the municipality of Palas deRei passing near the church of Vilar de Donas, an old priory of the

Portomarín – Palas de Rei

Monument to pilgrims. Palas de Rei

Mural paintings in the Church of Vilar de Donas


Order of Saint James. The Ligonde-Palas de Rei stretch wasunder the protection of the knights of this order for manycenturies from 1184 onwards. However, the old monastery ofVilar was not located on the actual Way in order to offer anappropriate environment for retreat and prayer, as required byits inhabitants. Yet they always provided effective vigilance andprotection of the route and its surroundings.

The church of Vilar de Donas is one of the most outstandingexamples of Galician Romanesque architecture along theWay. The floor plan of the church is laid out in a Latin crosswith three vaulted apses and a transept with groinedvaulting. Inside the church there are several interestingtombs belonging to Knights of the Order of Saint James inaddition to the extraordinary Gothic frescos that cover mostof the walls of the central apse. The lower area depicts theCristo Varón de Dolores, the monarchs John II and Mary ofAragón and their son Henry; the central area portrays theAnnunciation flanking the window that illuminates the altar.The upper part, which is the vault of the apse, is a symbolicpainting with allusions to the Last Judgement. Thesepaintings were commissioned for the Holy Year of 1434,during the reign of John II, the protector of the pilgrims, and for whom he established a safe-conduct pass.

The next town on the Way is Palas de Rei (572 m), whose namecomes from a supposed royal palace built in the surroundingarea. The modern Church of San Tirso still preserves in tact theRomanesque porch. The pilgrims’ hostel, located in the centreof town, has made this little town more lively.

17 The French Way

Church of San Salvador de Vilar de Donas


The French Way leaves Palas and heads towards Campo dos Romeiros, a traditional meeting place for pilgrims, where stray pilgrims were reunitedwith the groups that had cropped up spontaneously over the course of the pilgrimage. This is the region of A Ulloa, a land with a strong dairyproduction and known for its delicious cheeses among other acclaimedtraditional products, a land that was immortalised by Emilia Pardo Bazán in her novel Los pazos de Ulloa (1886).

Not far from this stretch, taking a small detour, the traveller arrives at thefortress of Pambre. A country road leads to the fortress, built by Gonzalo deUlloa in the late 14th century. This was one of the few Galician castles thatescaped the fury of destruction caused by the ‘irmandiños’, in their struggleagainst the nobility in the 15th century.

Back on the route, the Way now enters the province of A Coruña, headingtowards the village of Leboreiro, with a distinct medieval feel. The churchstill has a number of Romanesque elements from the original construction,such as the magnificent tympanum of the porch, bearing the image of theVirgin Mary and a number of 16th century murals. Between Leboreiro andMelide, one of the most beautiful stretches along the Way, the travellercrosses over the village of Furelos and its narrow river-bed by a splendidmedieval bridge.

Palas de Rei – Melide

Pambre Castle


In Melide (450 m), considered to be the geographical heart of Galicia, the French Way becomes an urban route. The Way runs through this town with a strong pilgrimage tradition and identity. The route is integrated into the townwhich has a strong Jacobean historical identity. It is a medieval centre which wasresettled under the reign of Alphonse IX in the 13th century, around the timewhen the Romanesque porch of the Church of San Pedro was built, which todayforms part of the Chapel of San Roque. Next to the church stands one of theoldest ‘cruceiros’ –wayside crosses– in Galicia, a Gothic structure dating from the 14th century, which bears testimony to the lasting influence of the style ofMaster Mateo to be found along the French Way.

The historical part of Melide boasts other artistic treasures: the church of Sancti Spiritus, founded by the Franciscans in 1375, with tombs of members of the nobility dating from the 15th century, and the Romanesque church ofSanta María de Melide, consisting of a single nave with a semicircular apse, and on the exterior it is lavishly adorned with corbels and two porches. The interior still preserves the Romanesque altar table and the 16th centuryfrescos depicting the mystery of the Trinity as the Throne of Grace.

Charitable service was another very important part of medieval life in Melide. Itshospital, built in 1375, was known to have twenty-four beds, each occupied by twopersons, a common practice during the Middle Ages. Melide also had a lepers’hospital, attended by the monk-knights of the Order of Saint Lazarus. It is possibleto trace the past as well as the traditional customs of Melide and its region byvisiting the Terra de Melide Museum (ethnography, archaeology, research centre, etc.).

19 The French Way

Walkway over Catasol Stream


The next stops along the Way after Melide are Boente, with its church of Santiago, and Castañeda, two small villages with a long-standingpilgrimage tradition, the latter being especially important as the site of thelimekilns used in the construction of the Cathedral of Santiago. The smallpieces of stone that the medieval pilgrims would take from the lime quarriesof Triacastela and carry here were something more than a mere symbol of their participation in the enterprise of the construction of the cathedral.

Farther on, the pilgrim crosses the Iso river over a small medieval bridgewhich leads to another important centre of assistance: the hospital ofRibadiso, the last historical establishment at the service of the pilgrimsto remain open on the French Way. The building, adjacent to the river,was renovated and turned into a pilgrim refuge in 1993, forming an areaof extraordinary beauty.

Melide – Arzúa

The Way in Arzúa

20


21 The French Way

In the city of Arzúa (388 m) the French Way merges with the North Way.In this locality, famous in the region for its superb production of cheese,the pilgrim can observe symbols of the Way to Santiago, such as the rúado Camiño, the church of Santiago and, among others, the Gothicchapel of A Magdalena, which belonged to another hospital that has since disappeared.

In Arzúa the native Galician vegetation, which is omnipresent, becomesless prominent. This, however, does not keep the traveller from enjoyingthe many and varied establishments of rural tourism offered in the areaaround the Portodemouros reservoir, (a wide range of accommodation,the Honey Museum, hiking routes, facilities for water sports, etc.).

Ribadiso pilgrim’s hostel


This section of the Way takes the traveller inland passingthrough meadows, oak and eucalyptus trees that surround the small villages, some of which bear names that echo theirhistorical connections with the pilgrims’ way: Calzada, Calle,Ferreiros, A Salceda, A Brea, Santa Irene –with an interestingchurch and fountain– and A Rúa, located at the gates of Arca, thecapital of the municipality of O Pino, the last one before Santiago.

Once in the municipality of Santiago, after passing the city’sairport, the pilgrim reaches the town of A Lavacolla. Here thepilgrims of yesteryear, in keeping with the traditional hygieniccustom, would wash themselves from head to toe in a littlebrook that runs through the area. This practice of washing thebody thoroughly was also common at a number of hospitalsalong the Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago starting with the facilitiesat Roncesvalles and Navarra.

Arzúa – Santiago de Compostela

Chapel of Santa Irene

Pilgrims in Arca


After leaving A Lavacolla, the Way now approaches the Montedo Gozo (380 m), a small hillock from which the pilgrim wasable to see, for the first time, in the distance, the towers of theCathedral of Santiago, hence the name of this spot –the Mountof Joy–. During the Holy Year of Santiago de Compostela in1993, this hillock was converted into a residential area forpilgrims and visitors to serve as a meeting place and a leisurecentre. It situates the pilgrim at the start of the urban stretchthat will lead him to the gates of the Cathedral of Santiago.

During the more leisurely section of this leg, the jubilantpilgrims would proclaim the first of the group to reach the summit of the Monte do Gozo, as the “king of the pilgrimage”.

23 The French Way

Chapel of San Roque. A Lavacolla

Monument to Pilgrims in Monte do Gozo


The French Way enters the urban zone of Santiago (258 m)through the district of San Lázaro, which has been converted intoa service area housing the Conference and Exhibition Centre, theStadium, a number of administrative buildings belonging to theautonomous government of Galicia and the Pabellón de Galicia–Pavilion of Galicia–, with a permanent exhibition on Galicia andthe Pilgrims’ Ways to Santiago. The two most important historicbuildings in this area, although recent, are the old lepers’ hospital(19th century) and the Chapel of San Lázaro (mid 20th century).

After passing through the residential area of Fontiñas, where oneof the largest shopping centres of the city is located, the pilgrimreaches Os Concheiros, the name of the district and the street,with its stalls tended by vendors selling scallop shells to the newlyarrived pilgrims. Owing to this tradition the pilgrims were popularlyknown in the city as ‘concheiros’ from the word concha –shell–.

The historic zone of the city becomes visible from the smallsquare of San Pedro, with its cruceiro –wayside cross– brimmingwith legends. Travelling down San Pedro Street, from the junctionwith the Porta do Camiño –a meaningful name– the pilgrim cansee to his right two of the city´s most emblematic buildings: theold convent of San Domingos de Bonaval –where the ‘Museo doPobo Galego’: –Museum of the Galician People is located–,which houses the only Gothic church in the city –‘The Pantheon of Illustrious Galicians‘–, and the Centro Galego de Arte

In Santiago

San Domingos de Bonaval

Quintana Square


Contemporánea (CGAC) –Galician Museum of Modern Art–, designed bythe Portuguese architect, Álvaro Siza, and which today has become one ofthe most outstanding exhibition areas for contemporary art in Spain.

After passing the Porta do Camiño, the route begins its final stretchthrough narrow pedestrian streets and squares. The first street is CasasReais, lined with a number of important buildings, and where the guildof money changers was once located. On the left is the small, butcharming neo-classical parish church of A Nosa Señora do Camiño, and continuing on a few metres more, the pilgrim finds the impressivechapel of As Ánimas, both dating from the late 18th century and bothhaving interesting collections open to the public.

The last stop before entering the basilica is the Cervantes square, the first large space for meetings and commerce of historic interest inthe city, and where the City Hall stood until the end of the 18th century.The parish church of San Bieito do Campo –18th century–, also neo-classical is one of the oldest buildings in this square.

From this point, the traditional route of the French Way follows thestreet of A Acibechería, with the imposing façade of the monastery of San Martiño Pinario (17th-18th centuries) on the right, from whichaccess is gained to one of the most magnificent cloisters of Galicia and to the Cathedral through the old door of Paradise, Romanesque in style. This door, known today as A Acibechería, was replaced duringthe second half of the 18th century while work was being done in thetransition from the Baroque to the Neo-classical style.

During the Holy years of Santiago de Compostela pilgrims usually chooseto enter the basilica by way of the Holy Door, located in A Quintanasquare. This door is only opened during a Holy Year.

Obradoiro Square

The Cathedral Holy Door


Raxoi Palace

The Thurible

After visiting the Cathedral, the place wherepilgrims first arrive and meet, they can enjoy a tour of the city of Santiago in all its historicsplendour, taking in the diversity and dynamicappearance it offers today.

The modern-day city of Santiago de Compostelaevolved from a small settlement of monks whowere the custodians of the tomb of the Apostleat the time of its discovery, around the year 820.The city underwent spectacular developmentduring the Middle Ages, thanks to the popularityof pilgrimages in Europe, which made it, along with Jerusalem and Rome, one of thethree great centres of the Christian world.

Between the 15th and the 19th centuries, the cityalternated between prosperity and decadence,in keeping with the fluctuating pulse of thehistory of Galicia, Spain and Europe. Pilgrimagesbecame less and less important, but Santiagoconsolidated its position as a centre of culture,learning and spirituality thanks to the foundingof the University and the city’s Renaissance andBaroque heritage, mirrored in most of its majorhistorical monuments and buildings.

In the Cathedral The Cathedral of Santiago, whose constructionbegan in the year 1075, is one of the greatEuropean monuments from both an artistic andsymbolic standpoint. From its Romanesqueorigins, it evolved through a number of styles,although the Baroque elements are perhapsthe most outstanding, culminating in thefaçade of O Obradoiro (1738-1750). A tour of the naves and its Museumreveals an interesting and varied heritage both in content and significance.

During his visit to the cathedral andsurroundings, the pilgrim usually carries out aritual that takes him to the chapel of the mainaltar, in keeping with the tradition, to‘embrace’ the Apostle Saint James

–a sculpture of Romanesque origin– and next, to visit the crypt where his remains are buried. A visit to the Portico of Glory is also part ofthe ritual, as is attending the pilgrims’ mass at 12 noon, where the swinging of thebotafumeiro, hanging high up in the nave ofthe transept surprises and delights the visitor.

After his visit to the Cathedral, if the pilgrimhas all the required credentials justifying hispilgrimage, on foot, on horseback or bybicycle, he may go to the Pilgrims’ Office to ask for the compostela, the documentaccrediting his pilgrimage, which is granted bythe Cathedral Chapter. From this moment on,the city of Santiago de Compostela belongs tothe pilgrim to enjoy and to treasure.

The historic city


The City of Culture

Galician Centre of Contemporary Art

27 The French Way

Santiago has enjoyed steady growth sincethe mid 20th century. In addition to thegradual rebirth of the pilgrimages, which keep its traditional spiritualsignificance alive, the Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago has become a growing tourist and cultural attraction.

In recent years, Santiago, theadministrative capital of the autonomousregion of Galicia, has seen the constructionof a number of important cultural andtourist infrastructures and it has succeededin projecting an international image as aEuropean oriented historic and culturalcentre. Proof of this are the thousands of visitors that flock to the city every daythroughout the year.

Declared a World Heritage Site byUNESCO, Santiago is anxious to maintainits thousand year old tradition of harmony,spirituality and progress through thehistoric tradition of its Pilgrims’ Way.

The modern-day city


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1 Cathedral-Holy Door- Xelmírez Palace

2 Raxoi Palace

3 Reis Católicos Hotel

4 College of San Xerome

5 Church of San Fructuoso

6 Fonseca College

7 Cabildo House

8 Conga House

9 Parra House

10 Convent of San Paio de Antealtares

11 Monastery of San Martiño Pinario

12 Church of San Martiño Pinario

13 The Dean’s House. Pilgrims’ Office

14 Vaamonde Palace

15 Bendaña Palace

16 Church of Santa María Salomé

17 Convent of San Francisco

18 Convent of Carme

19 Convent of Santa Clara

20 Church and former hospital of San Roque

21 Gothic House. Pilgrimage Museum

22 San Domingos de Bonaval. Museum of the Galician People

23 Galician Centre of Modern Art

24 Faculty of History and Geography

25 University Church

26 Church of San Fiz de Solovio

27 Convent and Church of the Mercedarian Mothers

28 School of As Orfas

29 Church of San Miguel dos Agros

30 Church of Santa María do Camiño

31 Church of San Bieito do Campo

32 Convent of Santo Agostiño

33 San Clemente College

34 General Chapel of Ánimas

35 Chapel of Santiago

36 Church of El Pilar

37 The Collegiate Church of Santa María a Real de Sar

French Way


29 The French Way

Map of Santiago’s historic centre


Pilgrim’s hostelsStarting 01 January 2008, in order to gain access to theshelters, pilgrims must buy a shelter voucher (3 €) ineach one, which is only authorised for use in theestablishments that were procured and on the datethat appears on the front of the voucher. It will not bevalid on any other date or in any other shelter. You may only stay one night in each shelter except the Monte do Gozo and San Lázaro, both in Santiago de Compostela. The number of pilgrims that will be accommodated each day will be limited tothe available beds in each establishment. The order of priority is always the same: Pilgrims whotravel by foot, on horseback, by bicycle and those withan escort vehicle.

Once the voucher is acquired, it is very important tokeep it until you leave the shelter. If not, the shelter can ask the pilgrim to vacate the premises. You must

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From left to right, the hostels at O Cebreiro, Triacastela, Sarria and Arzúa


leave the shelter before 8 a.m. so that it can becleaned. It will be open for accommodation from 1 p.m. until 10 p.m.

If any pilgrim with reduced mobility arrives, one canrequest the collaboration of those persons, who arealready accommodated after the shelter is filled tocapacity, in order to assist in his accommodation inthe establishment.

However, pilgrims and other travellers have a rangeof alternative accommodation options. There are anumber of religious and municipal centres alsoserving the pilgrim, especially during busierperiods. In recent times a wide-range of modernhotels and rural tourism establishments hascropped up along the different routes which haveadded to the diversity of the services and attractionsto be found along the Way.


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1. O Cebreiro2. Hospital da

Condesa3. Triacastela4. Calvor5. Sarria6. Barbadelo7. Ferreiros8. Portomarín9. Gonzar10. Vendas de Narón

11. Ligonde (2)

12. Palas de Rei

13. O Mato

14. Melide

15. Ribadiso

16. Arzúa

17. Santa Irene

18. O Pino

19. Monte do Gozo

20. San Lázaro

O CebreiroNewly constructed building*O Cebreiro, s/n. Pedrafita do Cebreiro106 beds20 parking spaces for bicyclesDistance from next hostel: 6 km (Hospital da Condesa, Pedrafita do Cebreiro)

Hospital da CondesaRehabilitated Unitarian SchoolHospital da Condesa. Hospital,s/n. Pedrafita do Cebreiro. 18 bedsDistance from next hostel: 16 km(Triacastela)

TriacastelaSet of traditional buildings plustwo newly constructed pavilions* Rúa do Peregrino, s/n. Triacastela84 bedsParking spaces for bicyclesDistance from next hostel: 13 km(Calvor, Sarria)

CalvorRehabilitated Unitarian SchoolCalvor, s/n. Sarria22 beds5 parking spaces for bicyclesDistance from next hostel: 5.5 km(Sarria)

SarriaRehabilitated town house*Rúa Maior, 79. Sarria41 bedsDistance from next hostel: 4.5 km (Barbadelo, Sarria)

BarbadeloRehabilitated Unitarian SchoolBarbadelo, s/n. Sarria18 beds5 parking spaces for bicyclesDistance from next hostel: 8 km (Ferreiros, Paradela)

FerreirosRehabilitated Unitarian SchoolFerreiros, s/n. Paradela22 bedsParking spaces for bicyclesDistance from next hostel: 10 km(Portomarín)

PortomarínNewly constructed building*Pza. dos Condes de Fenosa, s/n.Portomarín110 bedsDistance from next hostel: 5 km (Gonzar, Portomarín)

GonzarRehabilitated Unitarian SchoolGonzar, s/n. Portomarín30 beds

4 parking spaces for bicyclesDistance from next hostel: 5 km (Vendas de Narón, Portomarín)

Vendas de NarónRehabilitated Unitarian SchoolHospital da Cruz. Ventas deNarón. Portomarín32 beds4 parking spaces for bicyclesDistance from next hostel: 3 km (Ligonde, Monterroso)

Ligonde (2)Ligonde, Monterroso2 restored buildings20 beds each5 parking spaces for bicyclesDistance from next hostel: 9 km(Palas de Rei)

Palas de ReiRehabilitated town house*Avda. de Compostela, 19. Palas de Rei64 bedsParking spaces for bicyclesDistance from next hostel: 6 km (Mato, Palas de Rei)

Pilgrims’ PavilionLugar de Chacotes, s/n. Palas de Rei112 bedsParking spaces for bicyclesDistance from next hostel: 6 km (Mato, Palas de Rei)


33 The French Way

O MatoRehabilitated village schoolCasanova, s/n. Palas de Rei20 bedsParking spaces for bicyclesDistance from next hostel: 7 km (Melide)

MelideNewly constructed building*R/ San Antón, s/n. Melide130 bedsParking spaces for bicyclesDistance from next hostel: 12 km(Ribadiso, Arzúa)

RibadisoRehabilitated former pilgrims’hospital set in grounds withtraditional granary, medieval bridgeand ford across the River Iso* Ribadiso de Abaixo. Arzúa70 bedsParking spaces for bicyclesDistance from next hostel: 2 km (Arzúa)

ArzúaRehabilitated traditional town house*Cima do Lugar, 6. Arzúa48 beds10 parking spaces for bicyclesDistance from next hostel: 17 km(Santa Irene, O Pino)

Santa IreneRehabilitated country houseSanta Irene. Arca. O Pino36* beds5 parking spaces for bicyclesDistance from next hostel: 4 km (Arca, O Pino)

O PinoNewly constructed building*Pedrouzo. Arca. O Pino126 bedsDistance from next hostel: 15 km(Monte do Gozo, Santiago de Compostela)

Monte do GozoNewly constructed complex*Monte do Gozo. Santiago de Compostela400 beds (800, Holy Year)100 parking spaces for bicycles

San Lázaro (pilgrim’s hostel)Purpose built construction*Calle San Lázaro, s/n Santiago de Compostela80 bedsParking for bicycles

* Accommodation with disabled and special needs facilities.

Pilgrims’ hostels Information on the Way


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ServicesTown CouncilsPedrafita do CebreiroPza. de España, 2Tel.: + 34 982-367103 Fax: + 34 [email protected]

TriacastelaPza. da Deputación, 1Tel.: + 34 982-548147Fax: + 34 [email protected]

SamosPza. España, 1Tel.: + 34 982-546002Fax: + 34 982-546122

SarriaRúa Maior, 14Tel.: + 34 982-535000Fax: + 34 982-530916concellodesarria@concellodesarria.netwww.concellodesarria.net

ParadelaRúa Cabaleiros de Santiago, nº 15Tel.: + 34 982-541101Fax: + 34 [email protected]

PortomarínPza. Conde Fenosa, 1Tel.: + 34 982-545070Fax: + 34 [email protected]

MonterrosoPza. de Galicia, s/nTel.: + 34 982-377001Fax: + 34 [email protected]/monterroso/index1.htm

Palas de ReiAvda. Compostela, 28Tel.: + 34 982-380001Fax: + 34 [email protected]

MelidePza. do Convento, 5Tel.: + 34 981-505003Fax: + 34 [email protected]

ArzúaRúa Santiago, 2Tel.: + 34 981-500000Fax: + 34 [email protected]

O PinoPedrouzo, s/n. ArcaTel.: + 34 981-511002Fax: + 34 [email protected]

Santiago de CompostelaPza. do Obradoiro, s/n Pazo de RaxoiTel.: + 34 981-542300 Fax: + 34 [email protected]


Medical emergencies061

Emergencies(general, free of charge and internacional)112

Xacobeo InformationO Cebreiro Tf.: + 34 982-367025

Information Office in SantiagoTf.: + 34 + 34 902-332010Rúa do Vilar, 30-32, ground [email protected]

Web Sitewww.xacobeo.es

Rural Tourism CentralReservations OfficeTf.: + 34 + 34 [email protected]

Tourist Information OfficesLugoPza. Maior, 27-29Tf.: + 34 982-231361

A CoruñaDársena da Mariña, s/nTf.: + 34 981-221822

Santiago de CompostelaRúa do Vilar, 30-32, ground floorTf.: + 34 981-584081

TurgaliciaTf.: + 34 902-200432Fax: + 34 981-542510www.turgalicia.es

Emergency Services

35 The French Way



37 The French Way

The discovery of the Tomb of the Apostle Saint James the Greater at the beginning of the 9th century soon brought about a stream of travellers making the pilgrimage to the site, which is today the Galician city of Santiago de Compostela. This vast influx of pilgrims from all over Europe led to the creation of a network of itineraries, known collectively as the Camino de Santiago or the Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago.

The heyday of the pilgrimages took placebetween the 11th, 12th and 13th centuries with the granting of specific spiritualindulgences. This trend, however,has endured to a greater or lesser extentover the course of the centuries. Since the mid 20th century the Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago has been experiencing an international rebirth, which combines its spiritual and socio-cultural tradition with its tourist appeal, and once again it has become a melting pot for all types of peoples and cultures.

Traditionally the Pilgrims’ Ways are at theirbusiest during the Holy Years, held at intervalsof 6, 5, 6, and 11 years, but any time is ideal

for following the Way towards its ultimate goal:the city of Santiago de Compostela.

The Pilgrims’ Ways to Santiago



Throughout its twelve hundred year history, the Pilgrims’ Way to Santiagohas given rise to an extraordinary spiritual, cultural and social vitality.Thanks to the existence of the Way, the first network of assistance inEurope came into being and monasteries, cathedrals and new urbancentres were founded.

A new culture was born from the convergence of peoples of diversebackgrounds, based on the free exchange of ideas, artistic and socialtrends, in addition to a socio-economic driving force which boosted the development of a number of areas in Europe, especially during theMiddle Ages. The mark left by the Way and by the pilgrims on the city of Santiago de Compostela can be clearly seen from an endless number of public and private testimonies, in the different art forms, and also, for example, in the publication of over one thousand books worldwide,which in recent decades have extolled the virtues of this Way, a work of art and the heritage of all Europeans.

The main routes of the Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago were declared the First European Cultural Itinerary (1987) by the Council of Europe and aWorld Heritage Site by UNESCO in the stretches travelling across Spain

and France (1993 and 1998, respectively). In 2004 it also receivedthe Prince of Asturias Award for Harmony

from the Prince of AsturiasFoundation.

The Pilgrims’ Way in Europe


According to ancient legend, the Iberian Peninsulaformed part of the lands where the Apostle Saint Jamespreached Christianity. After he was beheaded in 44 AD,tradition says that his disciples took the body of the saint by boat to Galicia, one of the Spanish lands he preached in.

The difficult times during the early years of Christianityand the fact that most of the northern part of thepeninsula was sparsely populated would have meant that the exact location of the burial site would have falleninto oblivion. However, around the year 820 remains werefound which were attributed by the ecclesiastic and civilauthorities to be those of Saint James the Greater. This event, which took place in remote Galicianwoodland, would give rise to the founding of the present day city of Santiago de Compostela.

Santiago became the attractive goal of a pilgrimage thatwould, over the centuries, lead pilgrims from all walks oflife and via the most diverse itineraries, to the tomb ofthe only apostle of Jesus, along with Saint Peter in Rome,who is buried on European soil.

Galicia, the land of Saint James

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The diverse origins of these pilgrims gave rise to a total of sixEuropean ways leading to Galicia.

The busiest and most important itinerary from a socio-economic,artistic and cultural view, is the route known as the French Way,which enters Spain across the Pyrenees and Galicia via themythical hills of O Cebreiro.

However, there are five other itineraries that have also earned aplace for themselves in the history of the pilgrimages to Santiago.

The Galician Ways

French Way

Southeast Way–Vía da Prata

Portuguese Way

Route of the Sea of Arousa and the Ulla River

Fisterra-Muxía Way

English Way

Northern Way

Original Way

41 The French Way


They are the Original and North Ways,of great importance in the early pilgrimagedays, with two major routes that enterGalicia via Asturias, from the BasqueCountry and Cantabria; the English Way,followed particularly by pilgrims, who from northern Europe and the BritishIsles arrived at ports such as A Coruña and Ferrol; the Portuguese Way, whichwas used by pilgrims travelling fromPortugal up through Galicia’s south-western region; and the Southeast Way,used by pilgrims who, on their way to Santiago from the south and centre of the Peninsula, followed the popular Vía de la Plata, between Mérida andAstorga, continuing on into the territory of Ourense to Santiago de Compostela.

O Cebreiro. The French Way

Oseira. The South East Way –The Silver Way

“Compostela” and credential A Coruña. The English Way


There are two other routes whosesymbolism is believed to be closelylinked to the Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago:the Fisterra-Muxía Way, used by anumber of medieval pilgrims, who afterworshipping at the tomb of the apostle,were enticed to undertake the journeyto Cape Finisterre, the westernmostpoint on earth known at the time; and the route known as the Route ofthe Sea of Arousa and the River Ulla,recalling the itinerary, which accordingto tradition, was taken by the boatbearing the mortal remains of theApostle to Galicia (1st century).

43 The French Way

Cape Fisterra. The Fisterra-Muxía Way


Documents

The French Way - HAE International (HAEi)1,000 m) on a route leading to the nearby ranges of Os Ancares and O Courel, rich in elements related to ethnography, nature and landscape,