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The Future of Sustainabilityin the Fashion Industry
A study commissioned by C&A Foundation
Authors: Cornelia Daheim, Kacper Nosarzewski, Norbert Kołos,
Jessica Prendergast, Christian SchoonWith contributions by: Clara Joester-Morisse, Jerome C. Glenn, Theodore Gordon
Visualization by: Michelle Winkelsdorf
1
Contents
ExecutiveSummary 2
IntroductionandtheProjectContextandAims 8
KeyInsightswithAViewAcrosstheDelphiConcepts 10CurrentTrendsAreNotSufficienttoAchieveNet-PositiveImpacts 10AllConceptsWithinReach 11
“TheTop7”ConceptsFosteringSustainabilityintheFashionIndustry 13ChangingtheNarrativevia“IncreasedGlobalAwareness” 17
FibresandProcessing 19
HighlyDetailedSustainabilityReporting 20
Worker-drivenInitiatives 22
HighConcentration/Cooperation 24
ExtendedProducerResponsibility 26
WagesintheFashionIndustry 27
ResultsfortheRemaining7Concepts 28ClothingasaService 29
AutomationRevolution 30
CircularEconomy 31
ConsumerLevelSustainabilityIndex 32
Resale/Second-handModels 33
MajorityofClothingisLocallyProduced 34
TaxRegulationsforIncreasingSustainability 35
PathwaysTowardsSystemicChange 36
TheNeedtoAddressTwoTimescales 38
Outlook 39
Annex 40OverviewoftheProjectMethodology 40
FurtherDetailsonDelphiDesign 43
IntroductiontoDelphiMethodology 43
ApproachandReasoningtoDesigningtheDelphiOnline-Survey 44
ApproachandDesignoftheWorkshops 46
DetailsonExpertSelectionandInvolvement:OverallConceptofExpertSelection 47
ContributingExperts 49
References 52
FullDataofDelphiResults 55
2
ExecutiveSummary
TheWhyandtheHowoftheStudyAtatimewhensustainabilityisreceivingincreasingattention–bothfromthepublicaswellaswithin
thebusinessandpolicysphere,thereisstillmuchunclarityonthefutureperspectivesofsustainability
(notonly)inthefashionsector.C&AFoundationcommissionedthisstudytoreflectonthesefuture
perspectivesinthefashionindustryinaDelphi-basedapproach1withaselectsetofexperts.2Withthe
aimtomaketheresultsavailableandusableforthesectorasawholeandtherebycontributetothe
debateonthefutureofsustainability.
Focusingontheperspectiveofthefutureofsustainabilityinthefashionindustry,thestudyasks:
● Howmuchchangedoestheindustryhavetoundergotoachievesustainability,inthesenseof
net-positiveimpacts3fortherestorationoftheenvironmentaswellasforworkingconditions
andpoverty?Orinotherwords:Howfarawayarewefromachievingnet-positivesustainability?
● Whatareopportunitiesforstrategiesaimedatachievingnet-positivesustainability?Which
barrierswouldneedtobeovercome?
● Whatareemergingtrajectoriesorpathwaystowardsachievingnet-positivesustainabilityacrossthefashionindustry?
Methodology-wise,theanswersprovidedwerebroughttogetherwithandonthebasisofinsightsfromagroupofinternationalfashionand/orsustainabilityexpertsfromavarietyofbackgrounds,viaanonline-based“Real-TimeDelphi”survey,andanexpertworkshop(pleaseseetheinfographicandannexformoredetailsonmethodology).Ofcourse,therearecaveatsthatcomewiththisstudy.Aswithanypieceofworkthatlooksintothe
future,wehavetostressthatitisnotmeanttopaintanexactpictureofwhatistocome.However,itsharesawell-informedviewof,ontheonehand,whattoprobablyexpectifwecontinueonthepathweareoncurrently.Onetheotherhand,italsolinesoutwhatisfeasibleassumingthatavarietyofmeasuresaretakenbyactorsfromacrossthefield,andlinesoutthepathwaysandactionstotaketoachievearadicallysustainablefutureforthesector.
1 Pleaseseetheannexfordetailsonmethodologyanddefinitionsoftechnicaltermsused. 2 Theauthorswouldliketothankandexpresstheirdeepgratitudetotheexpertswhocontributedtothestudy,whetherintheformofinterviews,contributionstotheonlineDelphisurveyortotheworkshop. 3 Wefollowthedefinitionofnet-positiveimpactsreferencedbyHollender2015(i.e."Businesseshaveimpactsontheenvironmentandsociety.Somearenegative,somepositive.Foracompanytobenet-positive,thelatterneedtooutweightheformer.”).Inaddition,pleaserefertoForumfortheFuture(2018)andNetPositiveProject(2019)forthecurrentdiscoursearoundthisconcept.
3
Twenty-fiveglobaltopexpertswithhighdiversity,selectedbycriteriaoftopicexpertiseacrosstherelevantfields,geographicalspread,experts´ affiliation
Asia Europe NorthAmerica Central&SouthAmerica
Academic Activist/Campaigner Non-profit/SocialSectorIndustryJournalist
Industry
DelphiOnline-SurveyDelphiDesign
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
8 9
Gen.Hypotheses1 Gen.Hypotheses2
Impactonworkingconditionsandpoverty
Impactontherestorationofthenaturalenvironment
Earliesttimefortheconcepttoreachmainstream(ETM)
DeskResearchAcademicpapers&sustainablefashionreports
“RipVanWinkle”ExercisewithC&ALeadershipTeam
Expertinterviews5interviewswithglobalexperts
10 11 12 13 14
ExpertWorkshop
BuildingonDelphiResultsAssessmentandfurtherinsights,esp.onbarriersandlevers
PathwaysPathwaysidentified,alongwithpromoters,antagonists,&actions
LinesofActionActionfieldshighlighted
TheMethodologicalApproachandMainPhasesoftheDelphiStudy
14conceptsand2generalhypothesesassessed
Questionscoveredforthe14concepts:
4
KeyResults
“I still feel the issue is overconsumption, and we cannot just buy our way out of this.” (Expertquote)
CurrentEffortsarenotEnoughtoAchieveNet-PositiveSustainability
Assumingthatcurrenttrendscontinue,themajorityoftheDelphiexpertsdonotregardanet-positiveimpactofthefashionindustryasachievable:75%regardthisasinfeasiblefortherestorationofthenaturalenvironment,and62%regardthisasinfeasibleforworkingconditionsandpoverty.However,thisdoesnotmeanthatanet-positiveimpactoneitherisunachievableassuch.Instead,strongerand
moreradicaleffortsthanvisibleincurrenttrendswillbeneededtoacceleratechangeandthusmakea
net-positiveimpactpossible.TheactionsattributedtotheconceptsrankedintheDelphiexemplifywhat
sucheffortscanbe.Andwhilemostoftheseconceptsdobuildonalreadyexisting“signalsofchange”
foreachoftheconcepts(e.g.approachesthatarealreadyinmotion,butonasmaller-scale),amuch
morewidespreaddiffusionandimpactisassumed-sotospeaka“radicalimplementation”.
Furthermore,takentogetherthemeasuressuggestedfortherespectivetopconceptswouldimplya
radicallychangedfashionsystem–evenifthatmightnotbethecaseifoneconsideredtheconcepts
individually.
WithStrongAdditionalEfforts,ConceptsFosteringSustainability4CanReachMainstreamwithin16Years
Foralloftheconceptsevaluatedinthestudy,theexpertsalsoestimatedthesocalled“ETM”or“earliest
timetomainstream”.Thisreferstowheneachoftheseconceptscouldbecomeamainstream
phenomenon-undertheassumptionsthatstrongeffortsaretakenbyrespectiveactors.
Theoverallpictureoftheseassessmentsofwhenconceptscouldreachmainstreamisstriking:Theearliesttimetomainstreamforallindividualconceptsisexpectedtobe“withinreach”.Infact,allconceptsareassessedasbeingachievableby2035,i.e.within16yearsatmost.Thelargemajorityof
theconceptsareabletobecomemainstreamoverthemediumterm(in5to15years),andtwothirds
couldevenreachmainstreamwithinthenextdecade-again,onlyiftherespectiveeffortsaretaken.For
onlyoneconcept(“themajorityofclothingislocallyproduced”),ETMisassessedasbeingachievable
overthelong-term,i.e.within16yearsattheearliest.
4 Theconceptsevaluatedinthestudyarecalled“hypotheses”inthecorrectforesightterminology–wecallthem“concepts
fosteringsustainability”hereforbettereaseofreading.Thetermmeansconcepts,possiblesolutionsordevelopmentsthat
couldinfluenceandpossiblystronglyfostersustainability.Pleaseseetheannexfordetailsonhowtheconceptswereidentified.
5
Top7ofConceptsFosteringSustainabilityintheFashionIndustry
AswithanyDelphi,thedataandoutcomesarenotalwaysstraightforward“keymessages”buthaveto
beanalysedandinterpreted.Ontheleveloftheconceptsassessed,wehighlight“thetop7”concepts,
sotospeakthe“tophalfofthefield”-thosethatshouldreceivespecialattention.
Aclear“top5”conceptsstandout,resultingfromlookingatconceptsthatareratedasachievablequite
quickly,aswellashavingahighimpacteitherontherestorationofthenaturalenvironmentoron
workingconditionsandpoverty5.Inotherwords:Theseconceptscanbebroughttomainstreamwithin
thenextdecade,andthusshouldbeexploredfurther.Theseconceptsare6:
● IncreasedGlobalAwareness:Informationcampaignsfacilitatedthroughconcentratedindustry
effortscreateglobalawarenessfortheneedforaparadigmshifttowardssustainablefashion.
● FibresandProcessingInnovation:Newtypesoffibresandprocessingtechnologiesgomainstreamallowinglow-energyand/orlow-waterprocessing,recyclingandmaintainingof
clothing.
● HighlyDetailedSustainabilityReporting:Sustainabilityreportingismandatoryinalllendingand
investmentagreementswithmajorfinancialinstitutions,basedonacredible,transparentand
certifiedsystem,thusincreasingaccountabilityandenablinglearningfromthesereports.
● Worker-DrivenInitiatives:Themajorityoffashioncompanieshaveembeddedworker-led
processesofsecuringtheprotectionofhumanrights.Theyarebuiltonanindustry-specific
humanrightscodeofconduct,designedbyworkersandtargetedatlongstandingabusesthat
workersintheindustryexperiencefirst-hand.
● HighConcentration(i.e.increasedcooperation):Keyplayersinthefashionindustryworktogetherthrougheitherassetownershiporformalalliances.Keyplayersareeasytoidentifyand
togethertheyareabletoenforcesustainablesolutionsacrossthewholeindustry.
However,forabalancedprioritizationthatdoesnotoverlycentreonearliesttimetomainstream,we
alsohighlighttheleadingtwoconceptsthathadthehighestimpactontherestorationofthenatural
environment,andonworkingconditionsandpoverty,eventhoughtheyfeaturealongertimeto
mainstream.Inotherwords:Abalancedstrategicreflectionwillalsoneedtoconsider(atleast)these
twoconceptswiththehighestimpact,eveniftheywilltakelongertoimplementanddiffuse.Thesetwo
conceptsare:
● ExtendedProducerResponsibility:Mostnationsworldwideenforceextendedproducer
responsibility(forpost-consumerorunsoldgoods)requiringfashioncompaniestoreducetheir
amountofwaste.
5Highimpactdefinedasbeingrankedinthetop5forhighestimpactvalues.
6Pleaseseetherespectivechaptersforfulldefinitionsoftheconcepts.
6
● (Living)WagesintheFashionIndustry:Fairanddecentlivingwagesinthefashionindustryisaworldwidestandardandismonitoredbylocalgovernmentsandglobalinstitutions.
Theresulting“top7”arelinedoutinmoredetailinthestudyitself,followedbyabrieferoutlineforthe
remainingconcepts.
StrategiesNeedtoAddressTwoTimescales
Whiletheexpertsdemandaradicalre-envisioningofafundamentallychangedfuturefashionsystem
andindustry,governedbytheprinciplesofnet-positiveimpacts,theyalsoclearlyseethenecessityto
dealwiththeproblemscausedbythecurrentsystemduringthetransitionperiod.Asaconsequence,
strategiestowardscreatingnet-positivesustainabilityinthefashionindustrywillneedtosimultaneously
paytributeto:
● Addressingcurrentproblemsoftheexistingsystem(suchastheprinciplesofthe“racetothe
bottom”,the“fastfashiontrap”andtheconsequencesofahighlyfragmentedvaluechain,with e.g.persistingproblematicandunjustworkingconditionsformanyinthefashionindustry);
● Whileworkingtowardscreatingafundamentallychangednewsystem-withatitscorea
fundamentallychanged“sustainableconsumptionculture”,andnewbusinessmodelswithre-
use,recyclingandcircularityattheircentre.
PathwaysTowardsSystemicChange:TheTriadofNewNarratives/GlobalAwareness,andanEducationandRegulationPush
WhilelookingattheindividualconceptsfromtheDelphihighlightswhatactionscanandshouldbe
takentoadvancesustainabilityinthefashionindustry(regardingspecificallytheseareasof
change),thequestionsofwhichoverallpathwaystochangearepromising,andwhichfieldsofaction
standoutascuttingacrossthedifferentconcepts,alsoarise.Reflectionsaroundthisparticularly
stressedtheneedforradical,disruptivelong-termchange,whichcouldonlybeenabledwithaholisticandsystemicapproach.Concerningfieldsofactionthatstoodoutascuttingacrosstheconcepts,threefieldscanbeidentified:Firstofall,thereisafocuson“changingthenarrative”,asitwasoftenreferredtointheworkshopdiscussions,or“IncreasedGlobalAwareness”,aspertheoriginalnameoftheconcept.Accordingtotheexperts,thisapproachis
notonlyfeasibletoimplementratherquickly,butalsohastheadvantageofacurrent“windowofopportunity”,withafocusinthepublicdiscourseonthenecessityaswellasfeasibilityofsustainabilityeffortsasvisiblee.g.intheFridaysforFuturemovement.Focusingon“increasedglobalawareness”isregardedasaprerequisite,majorleverandcatalystformakingotheractionsfeasible,andenablingthemtobediffusedgloballyandmorerapidlythanotherwise
possible.
7
Secondly,respectivelychangedpoliticalframeworksareseenasamajorbuildingblocktoaccelerateandenablerapidchangetowardssustainability,withactionsfocusingonchangedincentivese.g.viataxesandlaws,procurementconditionsetc.Andfinally,aneducationfocusisregardedasa“bridge”betweenwhatismainlyabottom-upapproachofincreasedglobalawarenessandthetop-downapproachofchangedpoliticalpriorities.Notonlydoelementsof
aneducationdriveplayaroleformanyoftheconceptsdiscussedinthestudy(withrespective
actionssuchasmainstreamingHolisticCircularDesignFrameworkstoEducationfor
EmpoweringWorkers);theyarealsoseenasamid-termleverforpushingknowledgeaswellasskillsonsustainabilityandtransformationintonotonlythecurrentandnextgenerationofcitizensandconsumers,butalsodesignersanddecision-makers.However,itisimportanttounderstandthatthisfocuswasnotmeantto,asoneparticipantput
it,“startatprimaryschoolandthenwaitfor15yearsuntilthatgenerationhasinfluence”,but
insteadstarteffortsatthelevelofon-the-jobtrainingandtertiaryeducation,buildingonand
scalinguprespectiveexistinginitiatives.
Outlook
Thestudyclearlycontainswhatcanbecalledawake-upmessage.I.e.theconclusionthatifwerelyorrestoncurrenttrendscontinuing,wewillnotbeabletoachievenet-positivesustainability.Itisthusalsoanappealtotheindustrythatmuchmorethanwhatiscurrentlybeingdone,orisintheworks,hastoberealizedtoachievethisgoal.Atthesametime,theresultsofthisstudycontainmany“messagesofencouragement”.Achievingalloftheconceptsfeaturedinthestudyisseenaswithinreach(feasibleinatimelineof16yearsatthemost),ifthenecessarymeasuresaretaken.Onanother
level,weseetheexceptionallevelanddepthofengagementoftheexpertsinvolvedinthestudyas
anotherpointertowardspositivefutureperspectives.Theircommitmentinthisprocess,bringing
togethervoicesfromwidelydifferentdomains,backgroundsandregionsoftheworld,demonstrated
thatdialogueandcooperationacrosstheindustryisdesiredaswellasneeded,fruitfulandachievable.
Thequestionofwhatkindoffutureweaspireto,andwhatwecandocreateit,canbeacatalystin
creatingmoreofthesekindsofmuch-neededopportunitiesforcross-cuttingdialogueandcooperative
strategicthinking.
8
IntroductionandtheProjectContextandAims
Sustainabilityhasmadeittothefrontpagesofthedailynewspapers,intoprimeslotsofmajortelevision
newsshowsandisoneofthetopicsofdebateinanykindofdiscourseaboutthefuture,beitinindustry
orpolicycircles,oramongstthegeneralpublic.Inthefashioncommunitythereflectionaroundthese
issueshasrecentlyintensified,andisvisible,forexample,inreportssuchas“TheTransitiontoGood
Fashion”or“FashionFutures2030”or“CircularProductionandConsumptioninFashionandBeyond”
andvariousotherinitiativesandstudies.
Still,whilethediscourseisinfullswingandincreasingattentionisbeingpaidtotheissuesaround
sustainability,unclarityremainsonthefutureperspectivesofsustainabilityinthefashionsector.Thus,
C&AFoundationcommissionedthisstudytoreflectonthesefutureperspectivesinaDelphi-based
approachwithaselectsetofexperts,withtheaimtouseresultswithintheirownstrategic
programming-butalsotomakethemavailableandusableforthesectorasawhole.
Focusedontheperspectiveofthefutureofsustainabilityinthefashionindustry,thestudyasks:
● Howmuchchangedoestheindustryhavetoundergotoachievesustainability,inthesenseofnet-positiveimpactsfortherestorationoftheenvironmentaswellasforworkingconditions
andpoverty?Orinotherwords:Howfarawayarewefromachievingnet-positivesustainability?
● Whatareopportunitiesforstrategiesaimedatachievingnet-positivesustainability?Which
barrierswouldneedtobeovercome?
● Whatareemergingtrajectoriesorpathwaystowardsachievingnet-positivesustainabilityacrossthefashionindustry?
Methodology-wise,theanswersprovidedwerebroughttogetherwithandonthebasisofinsightsfromagroupofinternationalexperts.ThekeyapproachwasthatofaDelphi-study(intheformofanonline
survey),oneofthekeyforesightmethodologiesthataimsatdevelopingsharedviewsaboutpossible
futuredevelopments.Inthesurvey,twocross-cuttingquestionswereposedaroundtheprogress
towardssustainability,whiletherestofthesurveyfocusedon14specificfuturehypotheses(called
conceptsinthefollowingpages,touseamoreaccessibleterm).Thisapproachwassupplementedbyexpertinterviewsaswellasaworkshop,whichbuiltonandrefinedthesurveyresults.Theworkshopespeciallyfocusedontheperspectivesofopportunities(andonitsflipside,barrierstoovercome)for
achievingsustainabilityinthefashionindustry,aswellasemergingpathways.
Thus,thisstudyrestsontheinsightsfromthetwenty-fiveexpertswhocontributed.Somemightregard
thisasa“small”group,anditcertainlyisnot“representative”inthetraditionalsense.However,inspite
ofthegroupsize,orevenbecauseofit,weregardtheviewsexpressedashighlyvalid,andtheresults
9
emergingfromthestudyassolid-foranumberofreasons.Firstofall,recentexperienceswithsmaller
groupsofDelphicontributorshaveshowntoactuallyproducehigherqualityresultsthanoftenproduced
bylargergroupsofcontributors(duetoe.g.averystrictselectionprocessaswellasthelimitedsize
enablingadeeperconversationprocesswithinthegroup,whichisatthecoreoftheDelphi
methodology).Therefore,thegroupsizewasasitis,intentionally.Secondly,theselectionprocesswithin
thisprojectwasextremelythorough,basedoncriteria-ledresearch,andbringingtogetheradiverse
groupwithhighexpertise,fromamixofcountriesacrossmajorworldregions,andavarietyof
backgrounds(suchasacademia,non-profit,industry,etc.).Andfinally,thelevelofengagementfromthe
expertswasexceptionallyhigh,bothtime-wiseandconcerningthequalityanddepthofcontent
provided,butevenmorenoticeablysowithrespecttotheexpertsopennessinthedialogueprocess.
Theircommitmenttothinkingandreflectingtogether,andasagrouparrivingatnewinsights-wasa
highlyimportantcontributingfactortothestrengthofthestudy.
Atthesametime,therearecaveatsthatcomewiththisstudy.Aswithanypieceofworkthatlooksinto
thefuture,wehavetostressthatitisnotmeanttopaintanexactpictureofwhatistocome.However,
itsharesawell-informedviewof,ontheonehand,whattoprobablyexpectifwecontinueonthepath
weareoncurrently.Onetheotherhand,italsolinesoutwhatisfeasibleassumingthatavarietyof
measuresaretakenbyactorsfromacrossthefield,andlinesoutthepathwaysandactionstotaketoget
toaradicallysustainablefutureforthesector.Wethushopetheseresultswillbereceivedwitha
“foresightmindset”-amindsetcharacterizedbytheopennesstoquestionone’sownassumptions,and
afocusontheactionsneededtocreateadesirablefuture.
10
KeyInsightswithAViewAcrosstheDelphiConcepts
CurrentTrendsAreNotSufficienttoAchieveNet-PositiveImpacts:StrongAdditionalEffortsNeeded
Howtomeasureprogresstowardssustainabilitycanbeamatterofdebate.Nevertheless,mostwill
agreethatthelastdecadeshaveseenmajorprogressintermsofwhatcanbecalledaparadigmshift
towardssustainability.Butiswhatwearedoingtoday“enough”?Willitgetustonet-positive
sustainability,intermsoftheimpactontherestorationoftheenvironment,aswellasonworking
conditionsandpoverty?
Image:Possibilityofthefashionindustryhavinganetpositiveimpactassumingthecontinuationof
currenttrends
11
Theexpertssay:Itwillnot.TheoutcomeoftheDelphionline-survey7thusconveysaclearmessage:
Assumingthatcurrenttrendscontinue,themajorityofDelphiexpertsdonotregardanet-positive
impactofthefashionindustryasachievable:75%regardthisasinfeasiblefortherestorationofthe
naturalenvironment,and62%regardthisasinfeasibleforworkingconditionsandpoverty.However,
thisdoesnotmeanthatanet-positiveimpactoneitherisunachievableassuch.Instead,strongerand
moreradicaleffortsthanvisibleincurrenttrendswillbeneededtoacceleratechangeandthusmakea
net-positiveimpactpossible.TheactionsattributedtoalloftheconceptsrankedintheDelphiexemplify
whatsucheffortscanbe.
AllConceptsWithinReach:GivenAdditionalEfforts,AllConceptsCouldReachMainstreamin5to16YearsForalloftheconceptsevaluatedinthestudy,theexpertsalsoestimatedthesocalled“earliesttimeto
mainstream”or“ETM”.Thisreferstowheneachoftheseconceptscouldbecomeamainstream
phenomenon-undertheassumptionsthatstrongeffortsaretakenbyrespectiveactors.8
Theoverallpictureoftheassessmentsofwhenconceptscouldreachmainstreamisstriking:Theearliest
timetomainstreamforallindividualconceptsisexpectedtobe“withinreach”.Infact,allconceptsare
assessedasbeingachievableby2035,i.e.within16yearsatmost.Thelargemajorityoftheconcepts
arefeasibleoverthemedium-term(in5to15years),andtwothirdscouldevenreachmainstream
withinthenextdecade-again,onlyiftherespectiveeffortsaretaken.9Foronlyoneconcept-the
majorityofclothingislocallyproduced-,ETMisassessedasbeingachievableoverthelong-term,i.e.
within16yearsattheearliest.Ontheotherendofthespectrum,oneconceptstoodoutasbeingableto
becomemainstreamwithinashorttime-frame(amere5years)-theconceptofincreasedglobal
awareness.
Respectively,theETMtimelinesindicatethatwhiletheexpertsseecurrenttrendsasinsufficientfor
achievingnet-positivesustainability,theyalsoregardthechangeneeded(asexpressedinthedifferent
concepts)aspossible–giventhatrespectiveadditionalefforts,goingbeyondwhatiscurrentlybeing
done,areinfactrealised.Thequestionisthus:Howcanthisbeachieved?Wewilllinethisoutinmore
detailinthefollowingpages.
7Inadditiontoassessingthedifferentconcepts,theDelphionlinesurveyalsoaskedparticipantstoreflectongeneralprogresstowardssustainabilityinthefashionindustry,specificallythetimelinesforachievinganetpositiveimpact.Expertswereasked
whether,giventheassumptionthatcurrenttrendscontinue,theywouldexpectanet-positiveimpactofthefashionindustryto
beachievableintermsofrestorationofthenaturalenvironmentaswellasintermsofworkingconditionsandpoverty.8 Fordetailsoneachterm,conceptdefinitionandquestioninthestudy,pleaseseetheannex. 9 However,asthestandarddeviationforassessmentsoftheETMwasrelativelyhigh,outcomesshouldbetreatedasan
indicationonlyratherthanasapreciseprediction:Theyrepresentonlytheaverageexpectationoftheexperts,whohave
somewhatdivergingviewsconcerningtheETMperconcept.
12
Image: Timeline of concepts regarding Earliest Time to Mainstream (ETM), with ranks preceding the concepts 10
10 Valuesarerounded,fordetailsofallvaluespleaseseereportannex.Valuesprecedingtheconceptsareranks,fromthe
EarliestTimetoMainstreamtothelatest.“=“indicatesthatmorethanoneconcepttakesthisrank(withthefollowingrank
thenbeing“skipped”intherankcount).
13
“TheTop7”ConceptsFosteringSustainabilityintheFashionIndustry
Inthefollowingresultssummary,tointerprettheexperts’insights,wenotonlyshowtheaggregated
responsestoindividualquestionsfromtheDelphionline-survey,butwealsogofurtherindrawingfrom
theparticipantsdiscoursearoundtheissuesasgiveninover250commentsinthediscussionthreadsof
theDelphionlinesurvey,andtherichreflectionintheworkshop.AswithanyDelphi,thedataand
outcomesarenotalwaysstraightforward“keymessages”butneedtobeanalysedandinterpreted.
SomemessagescutacrosstheindividualconceptsratedintheonlineDelphisurvey,andarelinedout
separately.Butontheleveloftheconceptsassessed,wehighlight“thetop7”concepts,sotospeakthe
“tophalfofthefield”-thosethatshouldreceivespecialattention.11
Fromthefirstanalysis,aclear“top5”conceptsstoodoutimmediately,resultingfromlookingat
conceptsthatareratedasachievablequitequickly,aswellashavingahighimpacteitheronthe
restorationofthenaturalenvironmentoronworkingconditionsandpoverty(highimpactbeingdefined
asbeingrankedinthetop5forhighestimpactvalues).Inotherwords:Theseconceptscanbebrought
tomainstreamwithinthenextdecade-andthusshouldbeexploredfurther.Theseconceptsare:
● IncreasedGlobalAwareness
● FibresandProcessingInnovation
● HighlyDetailedSustainabilityReporting
● Worker-DrivenInitiatives
● HighConcentration/Cooperation12
However,forabalancedprioritizationthatdoesnotoverlycentreonearliesttimetomainstream,we
alsoaddedthetwoconceptsthathadthehighestimpactontherestorationofthenaturalenvironment
andonworkingconditionsandpoverty,eventhoughtheyfeaturealongertimetomainstream.These
“top7”willbelinedoutinmoredetailinthefollowingsections,followedbyabrieferoutlineforthe
remainingconcepts.Inotherwords:Abalancedstrategywillalsoneedtoconsider(atleast)thosetwo
conceptswiththehighestimpact,eveniftheywilltakelongertoimplementanddiffuse.Thesetwo
conceptsare:
● ExtendedProducerResponsibility
● WagesintheFashionIndustry
11Therearealsootherreasonablewaystoprioritize.Forexample,anorganizationfocusingonlyonlong-termsystemicchange
(withlessofafocusoncurrentproblems)coulddisregardETM,orgiveitlessweight;anorganizationfocusingespeciallyon
workingconditionswouldprioritizeconceptswithhighimpactinthatfield.Toenableaviewatallconceptsforsuchpurposes,
andotherpossiblewaysofprioritization,allassessmentsaresharedintheannex.12Inpreviousreports,thisconceptwasreferredtosolelyas‘HighConcentration’.However,duetoreasonsofclarity,this
conceptnowhasthetitle‘HighConcentration/Cooperation’.
14
Image:Top7conceptsalongtheratingsintheDelphi,top7highlightedinblue
15
Image:ConceptsETMandimpactonrestorationofthenaturalenvironment
Image:ConceptsETMandimpactonworkingconditionsandpoverty
16
Overviewof“TheTop7”Concepts IncreasedGlobalAwareness
FibresandProcessingInnovation
HighlyDetailedSustainabilityReporting
Worker-DrivenInitiatives
HighConcentration/Cooperation
ExtendedProducerResponsibility
WagesintheFashionIndustry
17
ChangingtheNarrativevia“IncreasedGlobalAwareness”
InitialDefinition:Globalsustainabilityawarenessraisingstrategyislaunched.13
Global“marketing”strategyfocusedonraisingawarenessandincreasing
educationaroundsustainabilityissuesislaunched.Itisaconcentratedeffortby
amajorsegmentofthefashionindustry-withkeyplayersallspeakinginone
voice.Thestrategycoversmanydifferentchannels,anditsmessagesare
adaptedandtargetedtobemeaningfulandrelevantineveryregionofthe
world.
“Extinction Rebellion, Schools for Climate Strikes, Fashion Revolution are examples of this starting to happen. Academic institutions can also teach the long-term thriving of graduates alongside their short-term employment.”14 (Expertquote)
Raisingglobalawarenesscouldbecomemainstreaminaslittleas5yearsaccordingtotheexperts,andwithonlyaslightvarianceintheiropinions(leaststandarddeviationofallconceptsat2.5years).While
theconceptofraisingglobalawarenessachievedhighscoresbothinregardstorestorationofthenaturalenvironment(2.4,ranked8th)andworkingconditionsandpoverty(2.3,ranked2nd=).
Linesofaction:
As lines of actions (i.e. respective strategic options for the industry as awhole), the experts stressedespecially:
● Globalcoalition:Thecreationofatrulyglobalcoalitionacrosstheindustryandthewholevalue-chain,totrulyacceleratedisruptivetransformationtoasustainablefashionsystem,with
coordinatedmessaging(potentiallyreachingoutbeyondthesectorandincludinge.g.“lawyers
13 Inthisdefinition,andinthoseinthefollowingrespectivesections,wefirstshowthestatementperthesesexactlyaswas
assessedintheDelphi,aswellastheadditionaldescriptionoftheconcept,againexactlyasitwasdescribedintheDelphi.
Sometimes,thediscussionoftheconceptsintheDelphionline-surveyaswellasintheexpertworkshopledtoaslight
reframingoftheconcept,whichisreflectedhereviaadditionalinformationinthelinesofaction. 14 Hereandintheotherchaptersonindividualconcepts,weshareaselectedquotefromtheexpertsfromthecommentsand
discussionsectionoftheDelphi.Insomecases,thesequoteshavebeenmodifiedveryslightlytocorrecttypographicalerrors
andtoimproveunderstanding.Incontrast,inthedetailedresultsintheAnnexthecommentshavebeenpresentedwithoutany
modification.
18
againstworkers’andenvironmentalexploitation”).Thiswouldgowidelybeyondexisting
initiativesandbringtogetherallactorswithinthefashionsystem,fromsmall-scaleNGOsor
worker’sinitiativestolargebrands,andsystematicallyreachoutbeyondthesector.The
incentiveforthisinitiativeisseeninacurrentsenseofurgencyespeciallyaroundenvironmental
/climatechangerelatedtopics,buildinge.g.ontheFridaysforFuturemovementandpresent
mediaattention,withe.g.manycitizensbeingincreasingly“implored”bytheyounger
generationintermsofaccountabilityandaction,andbusinessesbeingunderincreasing
pressuretodemonstratesustainablepractices.Thecoalition’sfocuswouldbeonenablingradicalchange(noton“marketing”inthesenseofgreenwashing),e.g.bymakingtransparent
whatkindofchangeispossibleandwhereitisfeasible,whattheimplicationsforconsumer
behaviourare,etc.
● Cooperationwithinfluencersandsocialmedia,aswellasoverallmediaandthearts/culture,
utilizingstorytellingprinciples.Forafar-reachingapproachthatnotonlyintensifiesexisting
approaches,itwouldalsoneedtobridgetop-downandbottom-upapproachesandinitiatives,
suchasconnectingsmallerscaleworkers’andconsumers’orcommunitysideinitiativeswith
globalmedia,largebrands’orglobalNGOinitiatives.
● Changednarrative:Thecriticalroleofarespectivelychangednarrativearoundsustainabilityasaleverformoreradicalfollow-upchangesinthearenaofpolicyandbusinesspractices–ifthis
weretobeimplementedonatrulyglobalandfar-reachingscale,goingwidelybeyondexisting
initiatives,itwouldenableanaccelerationofchangeandalsopavethewayforradicallychangedpoliticalframeworksviathetransformationofcitizens’andconsumers’attitudesandawareness.Itrefersalsotoapositiveframingofachangedconsumptionculture(withafocus
onhigherqualityconsumption,lessonquantityinthefastfashionparadigm).
19
FibresandProcessing:StrongPositiveImpactsonthe
Environment
InitialDefinition:Newtypesoffibresandprocessingtechnologiesopenupnewpossibilities.
Anewgenerationoffibresandprocessingtechnologiesgomainstreamallowing
low-energyand/orlow-waterrecyclingofclothingandanet-positiveimpact(on
theenvironment)duringprocessingandmaintaining.
“A greater use of technology in general to solve some of our social and environmental challenges would help push the science along.” (Expertquote)
Fibresandprocessinginnovationwasassessedashavingastronglypositiveimpactontheenvironment(2.9,ranked2nd); butlesseffectivewithregardtotheimpactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(0.9,
ranked10th). Itisexpectedthattheconceptcouldbecomemainstreaminlessthanadecade(8.3years,withacomparablylowstandarddeviationof3.77).
Linesofaction:
Aslinesofactions(i.e.respectivestrategicoptionsfortheindustryasawhole),theexpertsstressed
especially:
● Existingsustainablepractices:Supportfortransferandscalingofexistingsustainablepracticesand(materials)solutions,especiallyforthosewhicharealreadycost-effective.
● RaisinginvestmentsinrespectiveR&D(publicandprivatesector);alsoutilizingthepotentialofnewfundingmodels,e.g.crowdfunding,foradvancesinthesefieldsincludingapushfornew
businessmodels.Raisedinvestmentswouldbeseenasalevertoenablesolutionsimplying
higherup-frontcosts,andrespectivepoliticalincentivese.g.changedframeworkstowards
lifecyclecostapproachesandextendedproducerresponsibilitywouldhelp.
● Educationandnetworking:Progresshereneedstobesupportedbyarespectiveeducationandnetworkingpush;e.g.viaa“qualitativecircularholisticdesignframework”(createdbyagroup
ofexpertsonLCA,systemdesignandfashion&textileindustry,includingroadmapsforawide
rangeofproducttypesoverthenext25years,utilizingopensourceprinciples).
20
HighlyDetailedSustainabilityReporting:Mid-termFeasibility,
HightoMediumImpacts
InitialDefinition:Highlydetailedsustainabilityreportingismandatoryinalllendingandinvestmentagreementswithmajorfinancialinstitutions.
Themajorityoffinancinginstitutions(banks,investmentfunds,etc.)require
companieswithinthefashionindustrytomaintainacrediblesystemfor
documentingdatainareassuchaspurchasingpractices,wages,otherworking
conditions,chemicalusageandtheenvironmentalimpactoftheirproducts,etc.
Thisisnecessaryiftheywishtoobtainfinancing.Companieswithinthefashion
industrymaydothisviaacertifiedstandardsystem.
“Define verifiable, credible and comparable standards for social and environmental impact - particularly those aligned with the 2030 SDGs. Start measuring and reporting publicly to stakeholders.” (Expertquote)
Theimpactofhighlydetailedsustainabilityreportingwasassessedparticularlyfavourablyinregardtoworkingconditionsandpoverty(1.9,ranked5th=),whileslightlylessfavourably,butstillpositive,inregardtotheenvironment(1.8,ranked10th).Expertsbelievetheconceptcouldbecomemainstreambefore2030(8.6years,withacomparablylowstandarddeviationof3.39).
Linesofaction:
Aslinesofactions(i.e.respectivestrategicoptionsfortheindustryasawhole),theexpertsstressed
especially:
● Globalstandards:Establishmentofcomparable,globalstandards(includingrespective
regulationandotherpolicy-ledincentives,e.g.viaprocurementrules),thatarelargely
enforceable,whichimpliesstrongergovernmentalregulationandoversight,possiblyfollowing
themodelofmandatoryfinancialreporting.Inordertodrivetransparencyandaccountability,
whilealsoutilizingthepotentialofdata-driveninsights.Whilealsoaimingtoenablereal
learningacrosstheindustryfromsustainabilityreports,whichinthisunderstandingarenotseen
asacommunicationormarketingapproachbutasalearning,accountabilityandtransparency
lever,embeddedintostrategicdecision-makingprocesses,as“reportingwithaclearpurpose,
andwithstrongconsequences”.
21
● Educationparadigmshiftswitharespectivediffusionofskillsandtoolstoeaseimplementation,
(“10yearplantoraisea(sustainability-focusedand-skilled)generation”),includingexchanges
between“consumerandproducercountries”.
● Theleverofinvestmentandthefinanceindustry,ifthefinanceindustryweretoutilizesustainabilityreporting(muchmorethantheydotoday),thusincreasingincentivesforthe
fashionindustrytoreporttransparently.
22
Worker-drivenInitiatives:Mid-TermFeasibility,HighImpactfor
WorkingConditions
InitialDefinition:ThemajorityoffashioncompanieshaveembeddedWorker-DrivenInitiatives.
Worker-DrivenInitiativesareworker-ledprocessesofsecuringtheprotectionof
humanrights.Theyarebuiltonanindustry-specifichumanrightscodeof
conduct,designedbyworkersandtargetedatlongstandingabusesthatworkers
intheindustryexperiencefirst-hand.
“There is a need to create change on various levels simultaneously – from legislation regarding collective bargaining and a range of social and environmental protections, through to recognizing the vital contribution that small, location specific groups of people can achieve in a community.” (Expertquote)
Whileitispossibleworkerdriveninitiativescouldbecomemainstreaminunder10years(8.8years,withacomparablyhighstandarddeviationof5.32),theimpactofworker-driveninitiativeswasassessed
asparticularlylow-impactwithregardtotherestorationofthenaturalenvironment(0.4,ranked14th).However,theconceptratedhigherforimpactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(2.1,ranked4th).
Linesofaction:
Aslinesofactions(i.e.respectivestrategicoptionsfortheindustryasawhole),theexpertsstressed
especially:
● Training,educationandnetworking:Empowermentofindividualsviatraining/educationand
networking–globallyandonamuchwiderscalethantoday,withtheaimofbeingaccessibleto
nearlyeveryworker.
● Localinitiatives:Supportforlocalinitiativesfromglobalnetworksandpartners,e.g.viathe
globalcoalition(see“increasedglobalawareness”),increasedvisibilityandreachviasocial
media–againgloballyandonamuchwiderscalethantoday,withtheaimofbeingaccessibleto
nearlyeveryworker;facilitationof“tripartiteconventions”(workers/unionsplusstateand
employers).
23
● Retraining:Thefundamentalroleofretrainingprogramsforgarmentworkersinthefaceof
rapidcurrentchange,especiallyinproductiontechnologies.Thereisahighriskthatthisrapid
changenegativelyaffectsthosewiththelowesteducationlevel,implyinganeedtoimplement
retrainingprogramswhereneeded,andimprovetheiraccessibility.Retrainingisalsonecessary
todealwiththepotentialeffectsofautomation,enablingtransferintonewrolesandtasks
whererapidautomationtakesplace,whichwasregardedasapotentiallyproblematicfuture
developmentifnotaccompaniedbywidelyavailableretraining.
24
HighConcentration/Cooperation:Mid-TermFeasibility,
StrongImpactsforEnvironmentandWorkingConditions
InitialDefinition:Keyplayersinthefashionindustryworktogethertoenforceindustry-widesustainablesolutions.
Thefashionindustryishighlyconsolidated/concentratedthrougheitherasset
ownershiporformalalliances.Keyplayersareeasytoidentifyandtogetherthey
areabletoenforcesustainablesolutionsacrossthewholeindustry.
“Have a mastermind-like cohort that aids the industry and is comprised of specialists in all the areas of “sustainability” The global players have to go through that one body to deliver messages on what they are actually doing. Imagine Clean Clothes Campaign meets the NRDC yet they work together as one.” (Expertquote)
Worldwideindustrycollaboration,asexpressedinthisconcept,wouldhaveagreatimpactontheenvironment(2.6,ranked5th=)andalargeimpactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(2.3,ranked2nd=),accordingtotheexperts.Furthermore,thiscouldbeachievedwithinadecade(8.9years,withahighstandarddeviationof5.21).
Linesofaction:
Aslinesofactions(i.e.respectivestrategicoptionsfortheindustryasawhole),theexpertsstressed
especially:
● Opendata:Theleveroftransparentandopendatatoincreasedataavailabilityalongthewholevaluechain.
● Collaborationspecificallybetweenthemajorplayersontheconsumptionandproductionside,
e.g.viacommunitiesofpractice,theglobalcoalitionenvisaged(see“increasedglobal
awareness”),agreementsonstandards,etc.Thiswouldbepushedbye.g.higherandmandatory
globalstandardsforsustainabilityreporting.Further,incentivesarealsoseen,asinthecaseof
“globalawareness”inacurrentsenseofurgencyespeciallyaroundenvironmental/climate
changerelatedtopics,andbusinessesbeingunderincreasingpressuretodemonstrate
sustainablepractices.
25
● Interdisciplinary,“on-demand-teams”:Collaborationasakeytodealwiththecurrentshortcomingswithinahighlyfragmentedvaluechain:Supportfornetworks,creating“sharing
systemsforsuccessfulactionstowardssustainability”andglobal,interdisciplinary“on-demand-
supportteams”forimplementingsustainabilitymeasures.
26
ExtendedProducerResponsibility(EPR):Highestimpactonthe
environment
InitialDefinition:Worldwideintroductionofextendedproducerresponsibilityinthefashionindustry.Mostnationsenforceextendedproducerresponsibility(forpost-consumeror
unsoldgoods)requiringfashioncompaniestoreducetheiramountofwaste.
“Now we do have technologies (such AI and Blockchain) to trace the value chain, implement smart contracts and require accountability and responsibility for all the chain.” (Expertquote)
ExpertsbelievethatEPRcouldbecomemainstreamwithinadecade(9.7 years withamediumstandard
deviationof5.13years).WhilerankingtheimpactthatEPRwouldhaveontherestorationofthenatural
environmentasthehighestofallconcepts(3.1).AlthoughplacingEPRinthemiddleofthefieldfor
impactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(1.3,ranked9th).
Linesofaction:
Aslinesofactions(i.e.respectivestrategicoptionsfortheindustryasawhole),theexpertsstressed
especially:
● Garnerwidespreadpublicsupportforthistypeoflegislation,asconsumersincreasinglystand
behindeffortstorecycleanddisposeresponsibly.
● Realgainsareatsystemlevel,bygovernmentandcorporations,withlegislationtargetingproductionandpackagingstandardsbeforeproductsevenentertheconsumer-sidesystem.
● Harnessalreadyexistingtechnologies(suchasAIandBlockchain)totraceproductsalongthevaluechain,implementsmartcontractsandrequireaccountabilityandresponsibilityforall
(playersin)thechain.
27
WagesintheFashionIndustry:Highestimpactonworking
conditionsandpoverty
InitialDefinition:Fairanddecentlivingwageinthefashionindustryisaworldwidestandard.
Everyfashionindustryworkerearnsafairlivingwage,whichissetaccordingto
theregion’scostofliving.Companies’complianceingrantingthisfairliving
wagetoallemployeesismonitoredbylocalgovernmentsandglobal
institutions.
“At a time when the race to the bottom in search of cheaper wages shows little sign of abatement, the idea that all governments will set a realistic minimum wage, let alone a fair living wage, seems inconceivable.” (Expertquote)
Theimpactoffairwagesinthefashionindustrywasassessedveryhighforworkingconditionsandpoverty(3.5,ranked1st),butcomparablylowwithregardtotherestorationofthenaturalenvironment
(0.9,ranked12th).However,theexpertsbelievethisinitiativewouldtakeawhiletogetofftheground,
withitnotlikelytobecomemainstreambefore2030(ETMof12.4yearswithahighstandarddeviation
of5.78years).
Linesofaction:
Aslinesofactions(i.e.respectivestrategicoptionsfortheindustryasawhole),theexpertsstressed
especially:
● Self-regulation:Stimulate,pushorincentivizethatcompaniesdisclosetheirvaluechainand
certifyFairLabour(byusinglivingwageasminimumstandard),whilealsoengagingwith
consumersaboutsuchastandard.Thiswouldbepushedstronglybyimplementedmandatory
highlytransparent,standardizedsustainabilityreporting.
● Cooperationbetweenfashionbrandsandtheirfullsupplychaintochangeonepartner,insteadofswitchingproductiontoaregionwhereproductionischeaper.Cooperationwithother
sectors,i.e.joiningforcesincreatinginitiativesaimedatimprovingworkingconditionsand
wagesincomparablesectorswouldalsoincreaseleverage.
● Lawenforcementandoversightfromlocalgovernmentsisneededtoensurethatfairand
decentlivingwagesareguaranteed.
28
ResultsfortheRemaining7Concepts
ClothingasaService
AutomationRevolution
CircularEconomy
ConsumerLevelSustainabilityIndex
Resale/Second-handModels
MajorityofClothingisLocallyProduced
TaxRegulationsforIncreasingSustainability
29
ClothingasaService
InitialDefinition:'Clothingasaservice'becomesthemainbusinessmodelinthefashionindustry.“Fastfashion”and“take-make-waste”arenolongerthepreeminentbusiness
modelsinthefashionindustry.Leasingclothing,monthlysubscriptions,
exchangingusedclothesforshopdiscountsandmanyotherservice-based
modelsformthecoreofthefashionindustry.
“Clothing as a service could incentivize design of higher quality clothing which could withstand many wears, reducing demand and therefore industry's natural resource dependency.” (Expertquote)
Expertsassessedthattherealizationofthisconceptwouldhaveastrongimpactontherestorationofthenaturalenvironment(2.8),butaratherlowimpactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(0.7).Itisthe3rd=highestrankedconceptinregardtoenvironmentalimpact,whereasitisoneoftheleastimpactfulconceptsonworkingconditionsandpoverty(11th).Estimatedtimetomainstreamisinthemedium-termrangeat12.4yearswithahighlydispersedstandarddeviationof6.51years.
Regardingfuturetrends,thereisconsensusthattechnologicalinnovationsandtheproblemoflimited
resourceswillboosttherentingbusiness.Also,itisalmostunequivocallyassumedthatthemainbarriers
toachievementarethenegativeeffectsofclothingontheenvironment(whicharenotexpectedto
change)suchasdrycleaning,packaging,shippingandlogistics.Onlyinafewcommentswasit
mentionedthattointroducethisinnovation,aparadigmshiftinconsumer'swillingnessofowning
second-handclothingisrequired.Themajorityofrespondentsalsoagreethatclothingasaservicewill
resultinbetterqualityclothesandpotentiallybetterjobswhichwouldalsorequireupskillingworkers.
30
AutomationRevolution InitialDefinition:Advancedautomationtechnologiesreplacehumansinmostproductionareasofthefashionindustry.Advancedautomationtechnologiesdramaticallyreducelabourcontentofgarment
production,processing,manufacturingandlogisticswhileatthesametime
significantlyreducingTimetoMarket.
“The impact of automation depends on the aims of automation - if they are to protect workers and better value nature - then engage in automation possibilities accordingly. If the aim is to increase margins, reduce social responsibility, increase production and throughput, then the results will be detrimental to workers and to nature.” (Expertquote)
Theimpactofanautomationrevolutionontherestorationofthenaturalenvironmentwasassessedratherlow(0.8)andjudgednegativelyforworkingconditionsandpoverty(-0.9).Itisthe2ndlowestgradedconceptregardingtheenvironmentandwasgradedlastinregardtoworkingconditionsandpoverty.Automationrevolutionistheleastfavourablyrankedofalltheconceptspresented.Estimatedtimetomainstreamisinthemedium-termrangeat9.9yearswithacomparablylowstandarddeviationof4.25years.
Manyrespondentsstatedthatthebiggestbarrierswerelinkedtopotentiallayoffsandasaconsequence
-declininglevelsofemployment-duetoautomation.However,participantsmostlyagreedthat
universalbasicincomewouldbeafacilitatingsolutionaswellasnecessaryupskillingandretraining
workshops.Notably,respondentsmostlydisagreedwiththecommentthatfullautomationmightlead
toequalizationinincomesandapositiveimpactontheenvironment.However,itisalsotobenoted
thatinthedebateintheexpert’sworkshopspecifically,therewasahighlevelofdisagreementonhow
quicklyautomationcouldandwouldprobablybediffusedinthishighlyfragmentedindustry,andthat
someexpertsawalongertimelineforthesedevelopmentsasmorerealistic.
31
CircularEconomy
InitialDefinition:ThefashionindustryoperatesaccordingtoCircularEconomyprinciples.
CircularEconomy-asystemofinteractionandexchangethattreatstheearthas
“onehousehold”.Thissystemviewsworkingconditions,povertyandrestoration
ofthenaturalenvironmentasopportunitiestocreatevalue,includingmakinga
net-positiveimpact:soeachpurchase,product,place,processandpolicy
enhancesthequalityoflife,tostrengthentheintegrityofcomplexsystemssuch
aslandscapes,culturesandcommunities.
“Unless there are tariffs, taxes, and extended producer responsibility legislation put into place to support the circularity, it's not going to happen.” (Expertquote)
Participantsevaluatedtheimpactofintroducingacirculareconomicmodelhighlyfortheenvironment(2.8)andpositivelyforworkers(1.6).Theconceptranked3rd=regardingtheenvironmentand8thregardingworkingconditionsandpoverty.Estimatedtimetomainstreamisinthelong-termrangeat12.2yearswithamediumstandarddeviationof5.09years.Importanttonoteisthatrespondentsfocusedmoreonbarrierstochange,ratherthanonsolutions.A
majorityofcommentersmentionedprofitmotives,alackofsmartpublicpolicies,globalizationandthe
unwillingnessforaculturechangewithinthefashionindustryasthemainhurdles.Further,participants
notedthatlittleconsiderationisgiventotheopportunitiesbycompaniesandgovernmentsthatwould
becreatedwiththeintroductionofacirculareconomyregardingsocialinjusticeandsocialinequality.
32
ConsumerLevelSustainabilityIndex
InitialDefinition:Aconsumerlevelsustainabilityindexiswidelyusedbyshoppers.Asmartphone(orotherfuturemobiledevice)applicationorsimplepointofsale
toolinformsandeducatesconsumersaboutpurchasingdecisions.Similarto
(andascommonas)foodlabelling,butinsteadofnutritionalfactsitprovides
crediblesustainabilityfacts,suchastheamountofwaterusedduring
productionorchemicalusage.Theotherpossibilitywouldbetocreatean
aggregatedsustainabilityindex.
“I do think that the consumer’s choice is a very important key to change the industry’s choices.” (Expertquote)
Theimpactofaconsumerlevelsustainabilityindexwasassessedinthemediumrangeforbothenvironmentalimpact(2.1)andimpactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(1.9).Thisconceptwasrankedin9thplaceregardingenvironmentalimpactandin5thplaceregardingimpactonworkers.Estimatedtimetomainstreamisinthemedium-termrangeat9.5yearswithamediumstandarddeviationof5.51years.
Amajorityofparticipantssharedthenotionthattechnologicaltoolssuchasphoneapplicationscouldbe
effectiveinstrumentsinfosteringthedevelopmentofaconsumerlevelsustainabilityindex.Examples
mentionedinthecommentsrefertoenvironmentalfootprintanalysisandenvironmentalprofitandloss
accountcalculators.Thesemeasureswouldalsobedirectlyaimedattraditionalproductionmodelsand
unsustainablesupplychains.Especiallyimportantinthatregardisthattheconsumerisputinthedriving
seatasanactiveparticipator.Concerninghurdlestochange,theexpertsnotedthatsimplifiedrating
systems,basedonaveragecalculations,willnotbeabletodisplaydetailedinformationandmight
attractcontroversy.Theconceptwasseenashavinganexceptionallyhighextentofconnectionsto,and
synergywith,otherconcepts,e.g.itwouldunderpinandsupport“globalawareness”aswellas“highly
detailedsustainabilityreporting”.
33
Resale/Second-handModels
InitialDefinition:Themajorityofclothingcompaniesintroducearesale/second-handbusinessmodeltotheirprofile.Resaleorsecond-handisnowacommonbusinessmodelinthefashionindustry.
Nearlyhalfofallstockinretailstorescomesfromthesecond-handmarket.
Clothingdesignhaschangedtofittheneedsofthisnewbusinessmodel-
clothesarenoweasiertorepairandalter.
“Thinking differently about what this means in different cultures, locations, age groups, professions - rather than a one size fits all, the idea of vintage, sharing clothes, re-use - this is a huge creative opportunity - to find distinction that is relevant and appropriate at a particular scale/place or a range of scales. This is about a diverse set of models.” (Expertquote)
Theideaofresale/second-handmodelsachievedahighestimatedimpactregardingtheenvironment(2.6),andalowestimatedimpact(0.6)regardingworkingconditionsandpoverty.Theconceptrankedin5th=positionwithrespecttoimpactontheenvironment,whereasitrankedinoneofthelastpositions(12th=)regardingtheimpactonworkingconditionsandpoverty.Estimatedtimetomainstreamisinthemid-termrangeat9.1yearswithacomparablylowstandarddeviationof4.82years.Whiletheconceptingeneralwasdescribedasapositivephenomenonandstepintherightdirectionto
fightoverproductionandquantityofunsoldstock,mostcommentshighlightedobstacleswithrespectto
realizationandeffectiveimplementation.Respondentsoftenreportedtheriskofsellingsecond-hand
clothestopoorSub-SaharanorLatinAmericancountries,whichmightinconsequencecausenotonly
socialbutalsoenvironmentalproblemsduetolargewastestockanddumpedprices.Moreover,the
abilitytoreuseclothesrequireshigh-qualityproductsinthefirstinstanceanddemonstratestheneed
forindustrywideimprovedqualitystandards.Accordingtoparticipants,oneenablerofwidely,thus
radicallyintroducingresalebusinessmodelscouldbecompaniesandbrandsimplementingtake-back
programs,ideallyaccompaniedbytaxreliefsandothertaxincentives.Additionally,respondents
highlightedtheneedforinnovativesolutionsaimedatdecreasingthequantityofunsoldstockby
transformingitintosaleableclothing.Besides,itwasstrikingtoseethatmostcommentsmade
referencestoalreadyestablishedresalebusinessesandillustratedthefactthatthesepracticesalready
existwithintoday’sindustry.
34
MajorityofClothingisLocallyProduced
InitialDefinition:Themajorityofclothingislocallyproduced.Thefashionindustry’svaluechainismadeupofthousandsoflocalchains.This
modelgeneratesbenefitsfromboththephenomenonofnear-shoringof
productionandtheinnovativetechnologiesenablingtheself-productionof
clothesbycustomers(automaticsewingmachines,3Dprinting,spray-on
clothes,etc.).Thefashionvaluechainisnolongeralargeglobalchaininwhich
eachlinkislocatedindifferentpartsoftheworld.
“Reshoring or near shoring manufacturing would require huge investment in training, alongside higher wages, higher energy bills, etc. Even with greater automation, there would still need to be millions of garment workers working locally to supply the major hubs of consumption.” (Expertquote)
Thelocalproductionofclothingwasassessedashavingarelativelylowimpactontherestorationofthenaturalenvironment(1.5)andanevenlowerimpactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(0.6).Theassignedranksmirrorthisobservation:Theconceptisrankedin11thpositionand12th=positionrespectively.Estimatedtimetomainstreamiswithinthelongestrangeat16.2yearswithacomparablylowstandarddeviationof4.84years.Asignificantmajorityofparticipantshighlightedthedifficultfeasibilityandquestionableimpactofthis
hypothesis.Acommonpointraisedwasthatproducinglocaldoesnotseemtohaveacompellingimpact
onconsumersaverageenvironmentalfootprintasthetransportationofclothinghasarelativelylow
carbonimpactcomparedtoprocessingprocedures.Anothernoteworthycommentstatedthatacritical
barrierforlocalproductionisthatnotallrawmaterialsareavailableinspecificgeographicareas.
Respondentsagreedthatthebusinessworldneedstoundertakeaculturalshifttofosterthecreationof
localindustriesandverticallyintegratedsupplychains.Itwasmentionedthatgovernmentswouldneed
tosetsectorspecificincentivesforapprenticeshipsandskillsdevelopment.Althoughspecific
technologiesenablingsmartandlocalproductionwerementionedintheshortdescriptionofthe
hypothesissuchas3Dprinting,theseinnovativetechniqueswerenotdiscussedfurtherinthecomment
section,norwastheirpotentialinenablingsmartnearshoring.
35
TaxRegulationsforIncreasingSustainability
InitialDefinition:Introductionoftaxregulationstargetedatincreasingsustainabilityinthefashionindustry.
Mostnationshaveimplementedtaxationrequiringcompaniestointroduce
naturalcapitalaccountingaswellastargetedtaxincentivesfocusedon
improvingpracticesandboostingR&D.
“Taxation is important to stimulate agents to internalize their externalities and hence create an impact economy that considers not only the financial bottom line, but also social and environmental net impact.” (Expertquote)
Accordingtotherespondents,thepotentialintroductionoftaxregulationswasassessedashavingahighlypositive impactontherestorationof thenaturalenvironment (2.6)andamediumimpactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(1.9).Itisrankedin5th=positionforboththeimpactonrestorationofthenaturalenvironmentandonworkersconditionsandpoverty.Estimatedtimetomainstreamisinthemid-termrangeat9.9yearswithahighstandarddeviationof6.09years.
There seems to be overall consensus amongst participants that widely introducing effective tax
regulationswouldbeaground-breakingsteptowardsamoresustainableindustry.However,itbecomes
clearthatmostrespondentsarescepticalaboutthepossibilitiesofrealizingsuchataxsystemglobally.
Common concerns are the lack of willingness and agreement between individual countries and slow
action.Respondentshighlightthatlegislationthroughinternationalorganisationsincludingclearobjective
regulations,rulesanddefinitionswouldbeanecessity.Aworkingtaxsystemwouldobligethebusiness
playerstointernalizeexternalitieswithoutburdeningtheextracostsontotheshouldersoftheworkers.
Aworkingtaxsystemwouldalsoneedpreventativemechanismsfortaxavoidance,fraudandcorruption.
Aninterestingproposalwasalsogivenbyonerespondentregardingtaxreliefsforcompaniessharingtheir
newtechnologiesortoolssupportingdecreasedvolumesofwaste.
36
PathwaysTowardsSystemicChange:TheTriadofNewNarratives/GlobalAwareness,andan
EducationandRegulationPush
“I still feel the issue is overconsumption, and we cannot just buy our way out of this.” (Expertquote) WhilelookingattheindividualconceptsfromtheDelphihighlightswhatactionscanandshouldbe
takentoadvancesustainabilityinthefashionindustry(regardingspecificallytheseareasofchange),the
questionsofwhichoverallpathwaystochangearepromising,andwhichfieldsofactionstandoutas
cuttingacrossthedifferentconcepts,alsoarise.ThediscussionsectionsintheDelphionline-survey,as
wellasthereflectionsintheexpertinterviewsandworkshops,especiallycastlightonthis.
Thesereflectionsparticularlystressedtheneedforradical,disruptivelong-termchange,whichcouldonlybeenabledwithaholisticandsystemicapproach.15Strongagreementwasfoundconcerningthe
currentsystemasitiscannotbe“tweaked”orincrementallyadaptedtowardssustainability(orthatthischangewillbe“tooslow”)-instead,anypathwayaimingatachievingnet-positivesustainabilityimpliestheneedto“createafundamentallynewsystem”,thustheneedfordisruptivechange.Suchasystemwouldbedrivenbytheparadigmofnet-positiveimpactswithrespectivepoliticalframeworks,
andisassociatedwithafundamentallychangedconsumptionculture(e.g.alsowiththeaimofreducing
per-capitaconsumption,especiallyinhigh-incomecountries),aswellasnewbusinessmodels(e.g.with
conceptssuchasclothingasaservice).
However,thesediscussionswerealsodrivenbyanunderlyingscepticismtowardsanydiscoursethatsetstechnologyatthecentreofhopesorpromisesofsolutions.Whiletechnologicalprogressisindeed
expectedtocontributetoe.g.reducingindustrywaste,improvingdataqualityandaccessibilityetc.,the
expertsstressthatwecannotrestonthepromiseofpotentialimprovementsbroughtaboutby
technologies.Furthermore,scepticismwashighregardingwhether“businesscouldfixitself”-andthedominantviewwasthatitprobablycannotdosoalone,butneedsadaptedpoliticalframeworksandregulationasadriverofchange-evenifsustainabilityawarenessinthefashionindustryhasincreasedstronglyoverrecentyears.
15 Itisnoteworthythattheexpertsdivergedstronglyconcerningtheunderlying,implicitaswellasexplicitassumptionson
leversand“startingpoints”forchange,onecouldsayalsoconcerningunderlyingimplicit“theoriesofchange”:Ispolicy/state
orpublicsectorsystemsinterventiontheleverfor(andleaderof)change,orisittobefoundincitizen’svaluechange,or
technologyandbusiness?Incontrast,whateverthedifferenceinviewpointshere,agreementalongtheimportanceand
promiseofactivitiesaroundincreasingglobalawarenesswasstrong,aswellasagreementonholistic,systemicapproaches
beingmostpromising.
37
Concerningfieldsofactionthatstoodoutascuttingacrosstheconcepts,threefieldscanbeidentified:Firstofall,thisisthefocuson“changingthenarrative”,asitwasoftenreferredtointheworkshopdiscussions,or“IncreasedGlobalAwareness”,astheoriginalnameoftheconceptsays.Accordingtothe
experts,thisapproachisnotonlyfeasibletoimplementquitequickly,butalsohastheadvantageofa
current“windowofopportunity”,withafocusinthepublicdiscourseonthenecessityaswellasfeasibilityofsustainabilityefforts,asvisiblee.g.intheFridaysforFuturemovement.Focusingon“increasedglobalawareness”isregardedasaprerequisite,majorleverandcatalystformakingotheractionsfeasible,andenablingthemtobediffusedgloballyandmorerapidlythanotherwisepossible.
Secondly,respectivelychangedpoliticalframeworksareseenasamajorbuildingblocktoaccelerateandenablerapidchangetowardssustainability,withactionsfocusingonchangedincentivese.g.viataxesandlaws,procurementconditionsetc.Andfinally,aneducationfocusisregardedasa“bridge”betweenwhatismainlyabottom-upapproachofincreasedglobalawarenessandthetop-downapproachofchangedpoliticalpriorities.Notonlydoelementsofan´educationpush´playarolefor
manyoftheconceptsdiscussedinthestudy(withrespectiveactionssuchasmainstreamingHolistic
CircularDesignFrameworkstoEducationforEmpoweringWorkers);theyarealsoseenasamid-termleverforpushingknowledgeaswellasskillsonsustainabilityandtransformationintonotonlythecurrentandnextgenerationofcitizensandconsumers,butalsodesignersanddecision-makers.However,itisimportanttounderstandthatthisfocuswasnotmeantto,asoneparticipantputit,“start
atprimaryschoolandthenwaitfor15yearsuntilthatgenerationhasinfluence”,butinsteadbuildon
existingeffortsatthelevelofon-the-jobtrainingandtertiaryeducation,diffusingthemgloballyand
makingeffortsmuch-morefar-reaching,againinthesenseofa“radicalimplementationanddiffusion”
acrossthesector.
38
TheNeedtoAddressTwoTimescales:CurrentPressuresversusTheVisionofCreating
aNewSystem
“Right now, we have to deal with the damage done within the system we have at the moment - meaning supporting workers with bad working conditions or doing something about the impacts on the environment that are being caused now.” (Expertquote)
Whiletheexpertsdemandaradicalre-envisioningofafundamentallychangedfuturefashionsystem
andindustry,governedbytheprinciplesofnet-positiveimpacts,theyalsoclearlyseethenecessityto
dealwiththeproblemscausedbythecurrentsystemduringthetransitionperiod.Asaconsequence,
strategiestowardscreatingnet-positivesustainabilityinthefashionindustrywillneedtosimultaneously
paytributeto:
● Addressingcurrentproblemsoftheexistingsystem(suchastheprinciplesofthe“racetothe
bottom”,the“fastfashiontrap”andtheconsequencesofahighlyfragmentedvaluechain,with
e.g.persistingproblematicandunjustworkingconditionsformanyinthefashionindustry);
● Whileworkingtowardscreatingafundamentallychangednewsystem-withatitscorea
fundamentallychanged“sustainableconsumptionculture”,andnewbusinessmodelswithre-
use,recyclingandcircularityattheircentre.
39
Outlook
Theprojectresultslineoutwhattheexpertsinvolvedthinkaboutthefutureofsustainabilityinthefashion
industry.Wehopetheresultswillbeusableformany,andthatavarietyofactorsfromthefieldwilldive
deepintotheresults,andmakeuseofthemasastartingpointfore.g.theirowndialoguesaboutfuture
perspectives,beitinternallyforstrategy-making,orinopenformatswithotherstakeholders.
Thestudyclearlycontainswhatcanbecalledawake-upmessage.I.e.theconclusionthatifwerelyorrest
oncurrenttrendscontinuing,wewillnotbeabletoachievenet-positivesustainability.Itisthusalsoan
appealtotheindustrythatmuchmorethanwhatiscurrentlybeingdone,orisintheworks,hastobe
realized to achieve this goal. At the same time, the results of this study containmany “messages of
encouragement”.Achievingalloftheconceptsfeaturedinthestudyisseenaswithinreach(feasibleina
timelineof16yearsatthemost),ifthenecessarymeasuresaretaken.Aradicallysustainablefutureof
thefashionindustrydrivenbytheparadigmofnet-positivity isthusnotonlyimaginable,butfeasible-
givenstrongadditionalefforts,andimplyingincreasedinternationalandcross-sectoralcooperation.The
expertsrecommendtargetingthreemainleversinthepathwaypainted:Increasingglobalawareness(or
“changingthenarrative”,drivenbyaglobalalliancecuttingacrossthesector),aneducationpushand
respectivestrongpolicy-sideframeworks,implyingradicalsystemicchangeonavarietyoflevels.
Onanotherlevel,weseetheexceptionallevelanddepthofengagementoftheexpertsinvolvedinthe
studyasanotherpointertowardspositivefutureperspectives.Theircommitmentinthisprocess,bringing
togethervoicesfromwidelydifferentdomains,backgroundsandregionsoftheworld,demonstratedthat
dialogueandcooperationacrosstheindustryisdesiredaswellasneeded,fruitfulandachievable.The
questionofwhatkindoffutureweaspireto,andwhatwecandocreateit,canbeacatalystincreating
moreofthesekindsofmuch-neededopportunitiesforcross-cuttingdialogueandcooperativestrategic
thinking.
40
Annex
OverviewoftheProjectMethodology
ThepreparationandexecutionoftheDelphionlinesurveyproceededovertwodistinctphases.The
initialphaseconsistedofformulatingtheDelphihypothesesandcomprised:
● WorkshopwithC&AFoundationexpertsinZug
● RipvanWinklesurveywithasampleexpertgroupfromtheC&AFoundation
● Desk-research
● Draftingofinitialhypotheses
● SeveraliterationsoffeedbackandrefiningofthehypotheseswiththeC&AFoundation
LeadershipTeam
● Draftingthefinallistofhypothesesandresponseformats
Theprocesswherebytheseswereidentifiedandselectedfollowedthealgorithmbelow:
1. Extractingpropositionsforthesesfrom3sources:
1. RipvanWinkleexercise
2. Interviewswithexperts
3. Deskresearchwithspecialconsiderationofacademicpapersonsustainablefashionand
sustainablefashionreports:
1. Driftreport
2. Pulseofthefashionindustryreport
3. Sustainablefashion:Newapproaches(AaltoUniversityreport)
2. Preselectingthesesbyusing3filterstoensurerelativelyequaldistributionamong:
1. Fashionindustry’svaluechainlinks
2. FivefieldsofC&AFoundation’scurrentactivity
3. SixpathwaysoftransitionfromDriftreport
3. Finalselectionbasedonkeypointsfromtheinterviewswithexperts
Thefinallistofhypothesescounted16items,includingtwohorizontalhypothesestreatingsustainability
inthefashionindustryfromahigh-levelperspectiveand14specifichypotheses,pertainingtoasetof
potentialsolutionsor“concepts”enablingsustainabilityinthefashionindustryoverthelong-term.The
participantsassessedthesehigh-levelhypothesesusingthefollowingmetrics:
Impactonworkingconditions,povertyandimpactontherestorationofthenaturalenvironmentwas
measuredonascalefrom-4to4where-4meansverystrongnegativeimpactand4meansverystrong
positiveimpact.WebasedthismetriconthedistinctionusedinC&AFoundation’sTOC.
41
Earliesttimetomainstreamwasmeasuredinyearsandshowshowmuchtimeisrequiredforagiven
thesistobecomereality,inthemostdesirablescenario.Ifrespondentsassessedthatitwasnotpossible
toachievesuchastateinthecircumstancesgivenabovethentheywouldwrite“1000years”astheir
answer.
Commentingonacertainthesisrequiredaparticipanttoselectoneofthefollowingprefixes:
● Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe…
● Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...
ThethesesinSection1aremeantfortheassessmentofthepresentefforts.
Themainphaseofthestudyconsistedofset-up,runningandreportingontheresultsofDelphisurvey.
Forthisstudy,aReal-time-Delphi(RTD)surveywasrealizedon4CFHalnyXplatform.
TheonlineDelphiwasrealizedwithacarefullyselectedsetof21topglobalexperts.Theexpertswere
invitedtoparticipateintheonlineDelphiaswellastheexternalexpertsworkshop.Thecriteriafor
selectionincludedananalysisoftopicexpertise,geographicalspreadandtheexperts’affiliation,
confirmedbytheC&AFoundation.
Theparticipantswereeachpaidagratuityof700EUR,toensureasenseofcommitment(and“real”
timecontributed)aswellasthepossibilitytoincludehigh-levelexperts,whoarefrequentlynolonger
contributingto“open”(unpaid)Delphisurveys.Morethansatisfactorylevelsofinvolvementwerenoted
for21experts(seeAnnex“ExpertswhocontributedtotheDelphi”).
TheDelphisurveywasrealizedinafocusedtimeof26days.Promptresponsetotechnicalrequestswas
individuallyprovidedtotheparticipantsoveremail.Inonecaseaparticipantwasgivenanalternative
wayofsubmittinginputtothestudyduetotechnicalproblemsonexpert’sside.
FollowingthecompletionoftheonlineDelphisurvey,theinsightsgainedwerereflecteduponand
furtherrefinedinaworkshopwithexternalexperts.Anadditionalstrategyworkshopwasthenheld
withtheC&AfoundationLeadershipTeam,servingasabridgefromtheDelphiresultsintouseofthese
insightsinstrategicprogramming.
42
Image:Projectoverviewandapproach
43
FurtherDetailsonDelphiDesign
IntroductiontoDelphiMethodology
TheDelphiMethodwasdevelopedinthe1950sand1960sintheUnitedStatesbytheRANDprojectasanaidfordecision-makingandanalyticalmilitaryinstitutionsinassessingthecontemporarysituation.It
isnowakeytoolinstrategicforesightandmodernstrategicmanagement.Itallowsexpertgroupsto
findaconsensusonagivensetofissueswithinashorttime.Theresultsofthestudyarerelatively
unaffectedbypsychological,rhetoricalorsociologicalfactors,whichusuallyhaveanegativeeffecton
groupdiscussions.Takingthisintoconsideration,itisnotsurprisingthattheDelphimethodhasbeen
usedinclassifiedUSAirForceprojectstoreachaconsensusamongseniorofficers,academics,civil
expertsanddecisionmakers.Sincethen,ithasprovenitsworthinthousandsofcivilianprojects,in
areassuchaseducation,technologydevelopment,spatialplanning,conservationofnaturalresourcesor
regionaldevelopmentplanning.
Areal-timeDelphistudyisanenhancedversionofthemethod,originallydevelopedforDARPAin2004
inordertoincreasethespeedandefficiencyofmulti-expertdecision-making.Itisasignificanttime-
saver,asitreplacestraditionalsurveyscollectedinrounds,withongoing,continuousprocessingofthe
participants’responsesontheserver.Thus,the“discussion”intheonlinetooliscontinuous,allowing
foramorein-depthanalysisofthetopic,andresultinginaclearerconsensusamongexpertsonmore
preciseanswerstoresearchquestionsknownastheDelphiTheses.Participantscanaccessthestudyas
oftenastheywish,eachtimereceivinginformationastothecurrentstatusofthediscussionandrating
values.Theymayaddnewargumentsandchangepreviouslystatedopinions.Real-timeDelphistudies
havebeenwelltestedoverthepastdecadeinprestigiousprojectsonhundredsoftopicsaroundthe
world.4CFHalnyXisanadvancedDelphiplatform(smartDelphi,or4thgenDelphi)developedat4CF.The
platformmakesuseofthelatestadvancesinwebapplicationsandenablesfastconsensusbuildingand
theidentificationandevaluationofpointsofdisputeincomplexissuesinreal-time.Unlikecommonly
usedqualitativeknowledgemanagementandsocialresearchtools(suchasfocusgroups,workshops,
forums,orsurveys),4CFHalnyXsimultaneouslygivesresearchteamstheadvantageofusingcollective
intelligenceandasoliddiscussionstructure,whichensuresthatnoessentialinformationisomitted,
whileminimisingcognitiveoverload.
44
ApproachandReasoningtoDesigningtheDelphiOnline-Survey
TheDelphi-method-basedsurveyofexpertsassessedasetofhypotheses(or“concepts”)ontheir
impactuponthesustainabilityofthefashionindustry.The16individualconceptsweredeveloped
throughaninitial“RipvanWinkle”16exercise,interviewswithexperts,anddeskresearchwithspecial
considerationofacademicpapersonsustainablefashionandsustainablefashionreports.Individual
conceptswereevaluatedontwoaxesagainstimpactonworkingconditionsandpoverty,andonthe
restorationofthenaturalenvironment.Inaddition,theearliesttimetomainstreamwasalsoratedto
appraisehowmuchtimeisrequiredforagivenconcepttobecomereality,inthemostdesirable
scenario.Furthermore,commentingonacertainconceptrequiredaparticipanttocommentupon
eitherabarriertoachievingtheconcept,orasolutionfacilitationachievement.
RipvanWinkle:TheDelphionlinesurveydesignstartedwitha“RipvanWinkle”(RvW)typeexercise-a
methoddevelopedbyRANDwithinthe“AssumptionsBasedPlanning”methodologicalframework.The
exerciseismeanttoidentifybothload-bearingandvulnerableassumptionsregardingthefutureofa
giventopic.TheparticipantsoftheRvWexercisewereaskedtoindividuallylist10yes/noquestions
essentialtodefining"sustainabilityinthefashionindustryin2035”17.Theexacttaskwasformulatedas
follows:
“Youfellasleepanditseemsthatyousleptforquitesometime.Uponwakingyourealizethat
theyearis2035.In2035,forsomereason,youarerequestedtodescribethepresentstatusof
sustainabilityinthefashionindustry–youdonotknow,however,whathashappenedinthe
industryandbeyondduringthetimeyouwereasleep.
Youcanask10questionstogetabettergrasponthecurrentrealityofthefashionindustryand
contextin2035beforeyoustateyouranswer.Eachquestionhastobea‘yesorno’questionand
theycannotbecontingentoneachother.”
Selectedexpertsfrom4CFandFutureImpactstookpartintheexerciseaswell.Asaresult,wereceived
manyassumptions/uncertaintiesthatwerebothload-bearingandvulnerable.Wethenclusteredthem
tobecomeour'proto-hypotheses'.Wealsomatchedthemwithvaluechainlinkstocheckifcoverage
wassatisfactory(seetheannexforaninsightintothematchingprocess).
Delphiconcepts:AsaresultoftheRvWexerciseandourinternaldeskresearch,theproblemareas
whichshouldbeaddressedbecamereasonablywelldefined.Atthesametime,manyofthemwere“too
vague”tobeassessedduringaDelphionline-survey,westillneededtotranslatethemintospecificideas
forsolutions.AstheresultsoftheDelphionline-surveyneededtoprovideusableinsights,thegoalwas
16 A“RipvanWinkleexercise”isanexerciseoriginallydevelopedbyRAND,aimedatidentifyingassumptionsaboutconcepts
relatedtothefuture;fordetailsseethisproject’sinternalinceptionreportandJamesDewar(2002):Assumption-Based
Planning:AToolforReducingAvoidableSurprises. 17FashionforGooddefinesacurrentviewofsustainabilityinthefashionindustryinthe“5pointsofGoodFashion”document.
45
toformulatetheDelphithesesinawaywhichwouldmitigatetheriskofthediscussionbecomingtoo
generalandbroad.Takingtheaboveintoaccount,aswellasthefactthatwewouldbeusingthe4CF
Matrixforpresentingtheresults,wereformulatedtheDelphithesesasspecific“solutions”tothe
challengeofmakingthefashionindustrymoresustainable.
Wealsotriedtolookatthepossiblesolutionstotheindustry’ssustainabilityproblemsthroughthelens
ofValueChains-forexampletohavetwoDelphithesesforeachlinkinthevaluechain.Thiswould,
however,makesolutionstoospecific,especiallytakingintoaccountthate.g.solutionsforguaranteeing
justworkingconditionswouldmostlikelybeapplicableacrossprocessing,manufacturingandretail.
Wethereforeassessedeachoftheconceptsusingthefollowingmetrics:
·“Howfararewefromachievingit?”orinotherwordsearliesttimetomainstream(ETM)(0-50years)
·Impactonfairconditionsandwagesforworkersinthefashionindustry(-4to4)·Impactontheenvironment(-4to4)(ormoreprecisely-impactonrestoringnatural
environmentsinareasimpactedbytheindustry)Thefirstassessmentisacomplexone-whileassessingtheearliesttimeneededforasolutiontoreach
mainstreamthestudyparticipantsneededtotakeintoaccountnotonlytechnologicalobstacles,but
alsosocial,politicalandeconomicones.
Thesecondandthirdassessmentswerefocusedmoreonproblemareas(andthustheyareformulated
verysimilarlytotheimpactsinC&AFoundation’sTheoryofChange).Theaverageofthesetwobecame
ourAverageRelativeAdvantage(oneoftheaxesof4CFMatrix–althoughwecallitImpactinsteadof
Advantage,becausethatiswhatwearelookingforhere).Prefixesforcommentsunderathesiswere
relatedtobarriersstoppingacertainchangefrombecomingareality,andleversorpreconditionsfor
thischangebecomingareality.
46
ApproachandDesignoftheWorkshopsAnexternalexpertsworkshopwasheldonthe19thJulyinCologne,German.Workshopparticipants
includedeightexpertswhohadpreviouslytakenpartintheonlineDelphi,andfouradditionalexperts
whowereabletoprovidefreshperspectives.Duringtheworkshopparticipantsworkedonrefiningthe
resultsfromtheonlinesurvey,andaddingadditionalinsights.
TheassessmentsandcommentsgatheredthroughtheDelphiprovidedaninitialpictureofafuture
sustainablefashionindustry,thatwasusedasabasisfortheworkshopdiscussions.Theintroductionof
agame-TheStrangerFuturesGame-wasusedasatooltoencouragecreativityandthinkingoutsideof
thebox.Enablerswereselectedtohelprealizeasustainablefashionindustry-stemmingfroman
analysisoftheDelphiresultsrealizedbeforetheworkshop.Expertsthendeveloped‘upgraders’which
wouldsupporttheenablersand‘challenges’whichwouldhinderthem.
Inafurtherstep,expertsbroughttheupgradersintoachronologicalstructuretocreateconsistent
pathwaysforasustainablefashionindustry.Todevelopmoredetailedpathways,theupgraderswere
secondedbypromoters,antagonistsandactionsthatcouldassisttheirrealization.
Inafinalstep,expertsidentifiedclustersofactionsinthepathways.Theseso-calledactionfieldswere
thusasummaryofconcreteactionswithadescriptionofwhatplayersneedtodevelop,todoorto
consider.Theadditionalinsightscollectedoverthedaywerethenfedbackandincorporatedintothe
overallprojectresults.
Followingtheexternalexperts’workshop,aninternalworkshopwasheldwiththeC&AFoundation
LeadershipteamwhichespeciallyfocusedonoptionsforactionfortheFoundationandimplicationsof
theoverallprojectinsightsfortheFoundation’sstrategy.Bothstepswereabletodeepenandrefine
insightstowardsactionableresultsforC&AFoundation’sstrategicprogramming,aswellastheindustry
asawhole.
47
DetailsonExpertSelectionandInvolvement:OverallConceptofExpertSelection
TherealizationoftheDelphirequiredacarefullyselectedgroupofexpertstogenerateinsightsonfuture
trendsinsustainabilityforthefashionindustry.
Theselectionoftheseexpertswasmadeviaasystematic,criteria-ledprocess,drawingfromtheC&A
Foundation’snetworkofexpertsaswellasthoseofFutureImpacts,4CFandTheMillenniumProject,
drivenbyadditionalresearch.Expertswereidentifiedacrossamatrixoftopicexpertisethatincluded
experts’affiliation,characteristics(e.g.academia,policyandgovernance,campaigner/activistetc.,
genderandage,geographicalregion…).Thisensuredthattheselectionofexpertscoveredallaspectsof
relevance,aswellascross-cuttingissuesandperspectives.
OnlineDelphi:Twenty-onetop-expertswereselectedtopartakeintheonlineDelphi.Theadvantageofthisratherlimitedsamplesizewasthatitwassmallenoughtoenableameaningfulexchange,whichis
keyfortheresultsofaqualityRTD,whilelargeenoughtocoverthetopicsthatneededtobetakeninto
consideration.These21globalexpertswereselectedfromaninitiallong-listofuptoonehundred
expertswasidentifiedcollaborativelybetweenFutureImpacts,4CFandtheC&AFoundation,based
upontheirnetworksandcomplementedbyadditionalresearch.Fromthisinitiallong-list,arankingof
thetopapprox.20participantswasmadeensuringtoobtainabalanceofthecharacteristicsmentioned
above,aswellasaligningexpertisewiththeDelphiquestionsandaimingtoobtaina‘radicalinformed
(andpartiallyoutside)view’fromestablishedandwell-knownexpertswithauthorityintheindustry.
Prioritywasgiventoasecondgroupofapprox.20experts,toserveasalternativesincaseof
unavailability.
ExpertInterviews:Inadditiontothe21externalexpertschosentotakepartintheonlineDelphi,asubgroupoffiveexperts(twoexternal,andthreeinternalfromC&AFoundation)werealsoaskedto
takepartinsemi-structuredtelephoneinterviewsaimedatinformingthedesignoftheDelphiduringits
developmentstage.Thus,throughtheinterviewstheoveralldesignoftheDelphiisinformedviaa
cooperativeco-developmentandreflectionprocess,allowingustointegratetheexperts’knowledge
intotheformulationanddesignofthequestionnaire.Furthermore,thedesignworkshop,realizedwith
theC&AFoundationleadershipteam,waspartofthisprocessandservedtofurtherdevelopthedraft
questionnaireaswellasthelistofexpertstoinvite.
ExternalExpertsWorkshop:TheexpertsselectedtojointheonlineDelphiwerealsoinvitedtotakepartintheexternalexperts’workshop.Whileasmallnumberofexperts(four)whodidnotpartakeinthe
onlineDelphiwerealsoinvitedtojointheworkshop,inordertoincludefreshassessmentsandinsights
intotheprocess.
48
Image:WhocontributedtotheDelphi?Byregion(onlinesurveyandworkshop)
Image:WhocontributedtotheDelphi?Professionalbackgrounds(onlinesurveyandworkshop)
49
ContributingExpertsExpertsWhoContributedtotheOnline-SurveyaswellasWorkshop
ProfessionalBackground Region Gender
Academic NorthAmerica F
Academic Europe F
Academic Asia M
Academic NorthAmerica F
Academic Europe F
Academic Europe F
Academic Europe F
Academic Europe M
Activist/Campaigner Europe F
Activist/Campaigner South&CentralAmerica M
Activist/Campaigner Asia F
Activist/Campaigner Asia F
Industry NorthAmerica M
Industry South&CentralAmerica M
Industry Europe M
Industry Asia M
Industry Europe F
IndustryJournalist South&CentralAmerica M
IndustryJournalist NorthAmerica F
IndustryJournalist/Industry NorthAmerica F
Non-Profit/SocialSector Asia F
Non-profit/SocialSector Europe F
Non-profit/SocialSector Europe F
Non-profit/SocialSector South&CentralAmerica M
Non-profit/SocialSector Asia F
50
AbouttheProjectTeam
TheprojectwasrealizedbyateamfromFutureImpacts,incooperationwith4CFandTheMillenniumProject.Thethreepartnershavecooperatedalreadyformanyyearsacrossvariousprojects,and
togetherbringdeepexpertiseinrealizingDelphistudiesandbreakingthemdownintoactionable
results.
FutureImpactsisafuturesresearchcompany,focusingoncreatingimpactontoday’sactionsfromenvisagingthefuture.Havingrealizedprojectsforavarietyofcustomersinternationally(fromtheprivatesector,e.g.Alstom,
Evonik,HermesandtheSouthKoreanTelecom,andforthepublicsectorsuchasEuropeanCommission
andParliamentandGermanandUKministries,andforfoundationsandsocialsectoractors,suchas
BertelsmannFoundationandAktionMensch),wefocusoncreatingmoresustainableandinclusive
futures.WebringinexpertisefromhavingrealizedDelphistudiese.g.onfuturetechnologiesorthefutureofwork,andfromfuturesstudiesrelevanttothisproject,suchasonthefutureofagriculture,transportandlogistics,waste,gender,workandinclusion.FutureImpactsalsoleadstheGermanNode
oftheMillenniumProject.Seehttp://www.future-impacts.de
4CFisastrategicforesightconsultancy.Ourcoreexpertiseliesinlongtermanalysisandstrategy-helpingbusinesses,NGOsandgovernments
aroundtheworldtoreachtheirgoalsinarapidlychangingenvironment.Weincreaseorganizations'and
teams'capacitytoidentify,prepareforandutilizeopportunitiesandthreats.AstheCentral-European
NodeofTheMillenniumProject,4CFrepresentsworld'sleadingfuturesresearchthink-tank,selected
amongthebestforesightorganizationsbytheUSOfficeofEnergy.4CFhasalsobeenlistedasaleading
foresightandstrategicplanninginstitutionbyForesightEducationandResearchNetwork(FERN).4CF
strivestostayonthecuttingedgeofmodernforesight,workingwithi.e.militarystrategists,inorderto
giveourclientstheadvantageofbeingalwaysonestepahead.Inthisproject,4CFbringsintheirownDelphitoolHalnyXforrealizingDelphiquestionnaires,andrealizesthewholeprojecthandinhandwithFutureImpactsandtheC&AFoundation.Seehttp://www.4cf.pl
51
TheMillenniumProjectisaglobalparticipatorythinktank.
Establishedin1996undertheauspicesoftheAmericanCouncilfortheUnitedNationsUniversitythat
becameindependentin2009andhasgrownto63Nodesaroundtheworld(anMPNodeisagroupof
institutionsandindividualsthatconnectlocalandglobalperspectives).Itregularlypublishesthe“State
oftheFutureReport”,andhasrealizedover50futuresresearchprojects,mostofthemonthebasisof
Delphis.Withinthecontextofthisproject,theseniorexpertsJeromeC.GlennandTedGordon(whois
oneofthe“inventors”oftheDelphimethod)providedtheiradviceonhowtobestdesigntheDelphi
questionnaire,aswellasontheanalysisofresults.Seehttp://www.millennium-project.org
52
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https://laborrights.org/sites/default/files/publications/Future_of_Fashion_ILRF.pdf
Kane&Stotzt(2015).GlobalGarmentIndustryFactsheet.Availableat:
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february-2015.pdf
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https://www.researchgate.net/publication/311955732_From_a_Systematic_Literature_Review_to_a_Cl
assification_Framework_Sustainability_Integration_in_Fashion_Operations
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ance_for_Sustainable_Development
McKinsey&Company(2018).IsApparelManufacturingComingHome?Nearshoring,Automatizationand
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https://www.mckinsey.com/~/media/mckinsey/industries/retail/our%20insights/is%20apparel%20man
ufacturing%20coming%20home/is-apparel-manufacturing-coming-home_vf.ashx
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NetPositiveProject(2019).Availableat:https://www.netpositiveproject.org/
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Technology.pdf
55
FullDataofDelphiResults
Impactontherestorationofthenaturalenvironment
Assumingthatalltrendsinthefashionindustry,includingsustainabilitytrends,willremainunchanged(i.e.trends
continuealongthetrackthattheyarecurrentlyon)isitachievableforthefashionindustrytohaveanet-positiveimpactontherestorationofthenaturalenvironment?
According to the respondents, lack of change in trends within the fashion industry, will not lead to net positive impact nor on the restoration of thenatural environment, nor on working conditions and poverty. However, for those who judged the net positive impact possible if sustainability trends areconstant, what is worth mentioning is that it would take almost twice as long for environmental restoration (21.5 years) as for working conditions (12.7years). What is crucial, is that respondents are also more congruent according to the ETM regarding potential net positive on the restoration ofenvironment than working conditions and poverty, for which standard deviation value is relatively high (8.81). It might be due to the fact that fast fashionindustry degrading natural environment at a fast pace is a concrete, visible fact, with large stocks of unsold clothes generating waste. With thisassumption, it might be therefore easier to potentially evaluate the ETM for net-positive impact on the restoration of natural environment. Nevertheless,strong majority agrees that there is a high need for change within the fashion industry and that current sustainable trends are not efficient to achievesustainable fashion in the future. Three quarters of the respondents decided that the current state of fashion industry does not allow net positive impacton the restoration of natural environment and more than half that the same impact is not possible for working conditions. It could mean that innovationssuch as fostering low-energy and low-water, efficient production and processing mechanisms as well as introduction of resale, worker-driven initiatives orhigh concentration strategies, proposed by the study, are highly welcomed.
Especiallyworthnoting
Impactonworkingconditionsandpoverty
Assumingthatalltrendsinthefashionindustry,includingsustainabilitytrends,willremainunchanged(i.e.trends
continuealongthetrackthattheyarecurrentlyon)isitachievableforthefashionindustrytohaveanet-positiveimpactonworkingconditionsandpoverty?
IfYES,howmanyyearsareneededtoachievethispositiveoutcome?
21.5(average;basedupon10assessments
withst.dev.=3.37)
IfYES,howmanyyearsareneededtoachievethispositiveoutcome?
12.7(average;basedupon13assessments
withst.dev.=8.81)
75%
25%
62%
38%
56
A.1.AUTOMATIONREVOLUTION- Assessments
Advancedautomationtechnologiesdramaticallyreducelabourcontentofgarmentproduction,processing,
manufacturingandlogisticswhileatthesametimesignificantlyreducingTimeToMarket.
PLEASEASSESSTHEFOLLOWINGCONCEPT:
"Advancedautomationtechnologiesreplacehumansinmostproductionareasofthefashionindustry"
-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly
negative)(highlypositive)
0.8
Impactonrestorationofthenaturalenvironment(average;basedupon19assessmentswithst.dev.=0.9)
-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly
negative)(highlypositive)
-0.9
Impactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(average;basedupon19assessmentswithst.dev.=0.91)
0 5 10 15 20 25
9.9
ETM-earliestpossibletimeforthisconcepttoreachmainstreaminyears
(average;basedupon19assessmentswithst.dev.=4.25)
Basing on the answers, majority of participants agreed that automation revolution would have only slightly positive impact onthe restoration of the natural environment and slightly negative on working conditions and poverty. There is no strongdispersion between the responses as the standard deviation for both measures is around 0,9).
Nevertheless, there is less congruence amongst responders when it comes to the ETM. The ETM in average is relatively shortand equals circa 10 years from now. However it is observable that answers are less unequivocal and differ more from eachother.
Especiallyworthnoting
57
B.1.CIRCULARECONOMY- AssessmentsCircularEconomy- asystemofinteractionandexchangethattreatstheearthas“onehousehold”.Thissystem
viewsworkingconditions,povertyandrestorationofthenaturalenvironmentasopportunitiestocreatevalue,
includingmakinganet- positiveimpact:soeachpurchase,product,place,processandpolicyenhancesthequality
oflife,tostrengthentheintegrityofcomplexsystemssuchaslandscapes,culturesandcommunities.
PLEASEASSESSTHEFOLLOWINGCONCEPT:
"ThefashionindustryoperatesaccordingtoCircularEconomyprinciples"
-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly
negative)(highlypositive)
2.8
Impactonrestorationofthenaturalenvironment(average;basedupon18assessmentswithst.dev.=0.88)
-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly
negative)(highlypositive)
1.6
Impactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(average;basedupon18assessmentswithst.dev.=1.20)
0 5 10 15 20 25
12.2
ETM-earliestpossibletimeforthisconcepttoreachmainstreaminyears
(average;basedupon18assessmentswithst.dev.=5.09)
According to the results, respondents are quite in accordance regarding the assumption of incorporation of Circular Economyprinciples to the fashion industry would have relatively highly positive impact on the restoration of the natural environment.There is also a premise that it would result positively on working conditions and poverty, but answers are slightly morespread. When it comes to the ETM, the average remains relatively close (12.2) years, but there is less accordance betweenrespondents regarding this measure.
Especiallyworthnoting
58
C.1.CLOTHINGASASERVICE- Assessments“Fastfashion”and“take-make-waste”arenolongerthepreeminentbusinessmodelsinthefashionindustry.
Leasingclothing,monthlysubscriptions,exchangingusedclothesforshopdiscountsandmanyotherservice-based
modelsformthecoreofthefashionindustry.
PLEASEASSESSTHEFOLLOWINGCONCEPT:
"'Clothingasaservice'becomesthemainbusinessmodelinthefashionindustry"
-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly
negative)(highlypositive)
2.8
Impactonrestorationofthenaturalenvironment(average;basedupon19assessmentswithst.dev.=0.69)
-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly
negative)(highlypositive)
0.7
Impactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(average;basedupon19assessmentswithst.dev.=1)
0 5 10 15 20 25
12.4
ETM-earliestpossibletimeforthisconcepttoreachmainstreaminyears
(average;basedupon19assessmentswithst.dev.=6.51)
Basing on the results, there is a fairly well congruity that clothing as a service would have strongly positive impact on therestoration of natural environment. On the other hand, respondents did not assume it would impact significantly workingconditions and poverty however, relatively positive outcomes are presumed. Eventually, accordance amongst participantsregarding the ETM remains highly dispersed with the standard deviation being equivalent to 6.51.
Especiallyworthnoting
59
D.1.CONSUMERLEVELSUSTAINABILITYINDEX- AssessmentsAsmartphone(orotherfuturemobiledevice)applicationorsimplepointofsaletoolinformsandeducates
consumersaboutpurchasingdecisions.Similarto(andascommonas)foodlabelling,butinsteadofnutritionalfacts
itprovidescrediblesustainabilityfacts,suchastheamountofwaterusedduringproductionorchemicalusage.The
otherpossibilitywouldbetocreateanaggregatedsustainabilityindex.
PLEASEASSESSTHEFOLLOWINGCONCEPT:
"Aconsumerlevelsustainabilityindexiswidelyusedbyshoppers"
-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly
negative)(highlypositive)
2.1
Impactonrestorationofthenaturalenvironment(average;basedupon19assessmentswithst.dev.=1.24)
-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly
negative)(highlypositive)
1.9
Impactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(average;basedupon20assessmentswithst.dev.=1.39)
0 5 10 15 20 25
9.5
ETM-earliestpossibletimeforthisconcepttoreachmainstreaminyears
(average;basedupon20assessmentswithst.dev.=5.51)
Respondents valued highly positively the impact on the restoration of natural environment of the index. However, thereseems to be more dispersion in answers than in previous questions. A similar trend is visible in the impact on workingconditions and poverty. When it comes to the earliest possible time to reach mainstream, the difference amongst participantsremain high (with standard deviation = 5.51) and the ETM - comparatively short.
Especiallyworthnoting
60
E.1.EXTENDEDPRODUCERRESPONSIBILITY- AssessmentsMostnationsenforceextendedproducerresponsibility(forpost-consumerorunsoldgoods)requiringfashion
companiestoreducetheiramountofwaste.
PLEASEASSESSTHEFOLLOWINGCONCEPT:
"Worldwideintroductionofextendedproducerresponsibilityinthefashionindustry"
-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly
negative)(highlypositive)
3.1
Impactonrestorationofthenaturalenvironment(average;basedupon19assessmentswithst.dev.=0.52)
-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly
negative)(highlypositive)
1.3
Impactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(average;basedupon19assessmentswithst.dev.=1.2)
0 5 10 15 20 25
9.7
ETM-earliestpossibletimeforthisconcepttoreachmainstreaminyears
(average;basedupon19assessmentswithst.dev.=5.13)
Introduction of extended producer responsibility in the fashion industry was evaluated with a high congruence as havingstrongly positive impact on the restoration of natural environment. There is less accordance regarding the impact on workingconditions and poverty as well as less but still relatively strong positive impact on that measure. Dispersion betweenrespondents remain the same as in the case of previous questions and ETM still varies around relatively short term of 10years.
Especiallyworthnoting
61
F.1.FIBERSANDPROCESSINGINNOVATION- AssessmentsAnewgenerationoffibresandprocessingtechnologiesgomainstreamallowinglow-energyand/orlow-water
recyclingofclothingandanet-positiveimpact(ontheenvironment)duringprocessingandmaintaining.
PLEASEASSESSTHEFOLLOWINGCONCEPT:
"Newtypesoffibresandprocessingtechnologiesopenupnewpossibilities"
-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly
negative)(highlypositive)
2.9
Impactonrestorationofthenaturalenvironment(average;basedupon18assessmentswithst.dev.=0.73)
-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly
negative)(highlypositive)
0.9
Impactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(average;basedupon17assessmentswithst.dev.=1.17)
0 5 10 15 20 25
8.3
ETM-earliestpossibletimeforthisconcepttoreachmainstreaminyears
(average;basedupon18assessmentswithst.dev.=3.77)
According to the dataset, respondents assessed also highly positively and with a comparatively strong accordance the conceptof new possibilities being opened up by new types of fibers and processing. The impact on working conditions and povertywas also assessed positively nevertheless, with less congruence. Regarding ETM, there is less dispersion amongst respondentsthan in other questions, but the standard deviation remains relatively high.
Especiallyworthnoting
62
G.1.GLOBALAWARENESS- AssessmentsGlobalmarketingstrategyfocusedonraisingawarenessandincreasingeducationaroundsustainabilityissuesis
launched.Itisaconcentratedeffortbyamajorsegmentofthefashionindustry- withkeyplayersallspeakinginone
voice.Thestrategycoversmanydifferentchannels,anditsmessagesareadaptedandtargetedtobemeaningful
andrelevantineveryregionoftheworld.
PLEASEASSESSTHEFOLLOWINGCONCEPT:
"Globalsustainabilityawarenessraisingstrategyislaunched"
-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly
negative)(highlypositive)
2.4
Impactonrestorationofthenaturalenvironment(average;basedupon18assessmentswithst.dev.=1.24)
-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly
negative)(highlypositive)
2.3
Impactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(average;basedupon18assessmentswithst.dev.=0.89)
0 5 10 15 20 25
5
ETM-earliestpossibletimeforthisconcepttoreachmainstreaminyears
(average;basedupon18assessmentswithst.dev.=2.5)
Respondents assessed highly positively, both in terms of impact on the restoration of the natural environment as well as onworking conditions and poverty, the possibility of global awareness strategy. However, it seems to be more accordanceamongst participants when in comes to impact on working conditions than natural environment. Eventually, the concept wasevaluated to reach the mainstream rather quickly - in 5 years - with a relative congruence among respondents. This is the firstconcept reaching such an accordance regarding the ETM in the study.
Especiallyworthnoting
63
H.1.HIGHCONCENTRATION- AssessmentsThefashionindustryishighlyconsolidated/concentratedthrougheitherassetownershiporformalalliances.Key
playersareeasytoidentifyandtogethertheyareabletoenforcesustainablesolutionsacrossthewholeindustry.
PLEASEASSESSTHEFOLLOWINGCONCEPT:
"Keyplayersinthefashionindustryworktogethertoenforceindustry-widesustainablesolutions"
-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly
negative)(highlypositive)
2.6
Impactonrestorationofthenaturalenvironment(average;basedupon18assessmentswithst.dev.=1.15)
-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly
negative)(highlypositive)
2.3
Impactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(average;basedupon18assessmentswithst.dev.=1.13)
0 5 10 15 20 25
8.9
ETM-earliestpossibletimeforthisconcepttoreachmainstreaminyears
(average;basedupon18assessmentswithst.dev.=5.21)
Concentration of the fashion industry around formal alliances of key players was evaluated rather positively as well as itsimpact on working conditions and poverty. However, in comparison with other concepts, results are more spread out and lessclose to the average than previous ones. ETM still remains rather a measure with the least congruity amongst respondentsand the time is still being equivalent to around 9 years.
Especiallyworthnoting
64
I.1.HIGHLYDETAILEDSUSTAINABILITYREPORTING- AssessmentsThemajorityoffinancinginstitutions(banks,investmentfunds,etc.)requirecompanieswithinthefashionindustry
tomaintainacrediblesystemfordocumentingdatainareassuchaspurchasingpractices,wages,otherworking
conditions,chemicalusageandtheenvironmentalimpactoftheirproducts,etc.Thisisnecessaryiftheywishto
obtainfinancing.Companieswithinthefashionindustrymaydothisviameansofacertifiedstandardsystem.
PLEASEASSESSTHEFOLLOWINGCONCEPT:
"Highlydetailedsustainabilityreportingismandatoryinalllendingandinvestmentagreementswithmajorfinancial
institutions"
-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly
negative)(highlypositive)
1.8
Impactonrestorationofthenaturalenvironment(average;basedupon19assessmentswithst.dev.=1.4)
-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly
negative)(highlypositive)
1.9
Impactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(average;basedupon20assessmentswithst.dev.=1.5)
0 5 10 15 20 25
8.6
ETM-earliestpossibletimeforthisconcepttoreachmainstreaminyears
(average;basedupon20assessmentswithst.dev.=3.39)
Introduction of a highly detailed sustainability reporting was assessed in average rather positively by the respondents bothregarding the impact on the restoration of natural environment as well as working conditions and poverty. However, it isvisible that there is less consistency amongst participants and that answers are relatively more spread out. The ETM remainsequal to around 8.6 years with relative congruity but still quite dispersed.
Especiallyworthnoting
65
J.1.INTRODUCINGRESALE/SECOND-HANDMODELS- AssessmentsResaleorsecond-handisnowacommonbusinessmodelinthefashionindustry.Nearlyhalfofallstockinretail
storescomesfromthesecond-handmarket.Clothingdesignhaschangedtofittheneedsofthisnewbusiness
model- clothesarenoweasiertorepairandalter.
PLEASEASSESSTHEFOLLOWINGCONCEPT:
"Themajorityofclothingcompaniesintroducearesale/second-handbusinessmodeltotheirprofile"
-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly
negative)(highlypositive)
2.6
Impactonrestorationofthenaturalenvironment(average;basedupon18assessmentswithst.dev.=0.78)
-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly
negative)(highlypositive)
0.6
Impactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(average;basedupon18assessmentswithst.dev.=0.98)
0 5 10 15 20 25
9.1
ETM-earliestpossibletimeforthisconcepttoreachmainstreaminyears
(average;basedupon18assessmentswithst.dev.=4.82)
According to the results, a potential introduction of the resale/second-hand models to the fashion industry was assessedstrongly positively in terms of impact on the restoration of natural environment. On the other hand, respondents evaluatedless but still positively its impact on working conditions and poverty. As in other cases, the ETM remains equivalent to circa 9years with strong dispersion between answers, relatively to the average.
Especiallyworthnoting
66
K.1.MAJORITYOFCLOTHINGISLOCALLYPRODUCED- AssessmentsThefashionindustry’svaluechainismadeupofthousandsoflocalchains.Thismodelgeneratesbenefitsfromboth
thephenomenonofnear-shoringofproductionandtheinnovativetechnologiesenablingtheself-productionof
clothesbycustomers(automaticsewingmachines,3Dprinting,spray-onclothes,etc.).Thefashionvaluechainisno
longeralargeglobalchaininwhicheachlinkislocatedindifferentpartsoftheworld.
PLEASEASSESSTHEFOLLOWINGCONCEPT:
"Themajorityofclothingislocallyproduced"
-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly
negative)(highlypositive)
1.5
Impactonrestorationofthenaturalenvironment(average;basedupon19assessmentswithst.dev.=0.96)
-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly
negative)(highlypositive)
0.6
Impactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(average;basedupon19assessmentswithst.dev.=1.61)
0 5 10 15 20 25
16.2
ETM-earliestpossibletimeforthisconcepttoreachmainstreaminyears
(average;basedupon19assessmentswithst.dev.=4.84)
Basing on the results, local production of clothes was evaluated rather positively by respondents by its impact on therestoration of natural environment with relative congruity amongst them. Locality of production seems to be judged lesssignificant for working conditions and poverty but also the dispersion between answers is higher than in the previousmeasure. What is interesting, is that the concept was evaluated to reach the mainstream only in 16 years, but this measurestill remains the least unequivocal.
Especiallyworthnoting
67
L.1.TAXREGULATIONSFORINCREASINGSUSTAINABILITY- AssessmentsMostnationshaveimplementedtaxationrequiringcompaniestointroducenaturalcapitalaccountingaswellas
targetedtaxincentivesfocusedonimprovingpracticesandboostingR&D.
PLEASEASSESSTHEFOLLOWINGCONCEPT:
"Introductionoftaxregulationstargetedatincreasingsustainabilityinthefashionindustry"
-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly
negative)(highlypositive)
2.6
Impactonrestorationofthenaturalenvironment(average;basedupon18assessmentswithst.dev.=0.78)
-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly
negative)(highlypositive)
1.9
Impactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(average;basedupon18assessmentswithst.dev.=1.08)
0 5 10 15 20 25
9.9
ETM-earliestpossibletimeforthisconcepttoreachmainstreaminyears
(average;basedupon18assessmentswithst.dev.=6.09)
According to respondents, introduction of tax regulations for increasing sustainability is assessed concordantly to have a highlypositive impact on the restoration of natural environment. Respondents are less congruent, but still judge in accordancerelatively positive impact on working conditions and poverty of this innovation as well. Without change, the ETM remains theleast congruent measure being in average equal to around 10 years.
Especiallyworthnoting
68
M.1.WAGESINTHEFASHIONINDUSTRY- AssessmentsEveryfashionindustryworkerearnsafairlivingwage,whichissetaccordingtotheregion’scostofliving.
Companiescomplianceingrantingthisfairlivingwagetoallemployeesismonitoredbylocalgovernmentsand
globalinstitutions.
PLEASEASSESSTHEFOLLOWINGCONCEPT:
"Fairanddecentlivingwageinthefashionindustryisaworldwidestandard"
-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly
negative)(highlypositive)
0.9
Impactonrestorationofthenaturalenvironment(average;basedupon18assessmentswithst.dev.=0.87)
-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly
negative)(highlypositive)
3.5
Impactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(average;basedupon19assessmentswithst.dev.=0.96)
0 5 10 15 20 25
12.4
ETM-earliestpossibletimeforthisconcepttoreachmainstreaminyears
(average;basedupon19assessmentswithst.dev.=5.78)
Concept of fair and decent living wage in the fashion industry was assessed by respondents to have, on one hand, a smallpositive impact on the restoration of the natural environment but on the other hand a very significant impact on workingconditions and poverty. Assessments were made with a similar conformity. Nevertheless, as pointed out a few timespreviously, participants do not seem to agree regarding the ETM, for this concept to be around 12 years, in which dispersionremains still relatively high.
Especiallyworthnoting
69
N.1.WORKER-DRIVENINITIATIVES- AssessmentsWorker-DrivenInitiativesareworker-ledprocessesofsecuringtheprotectionofhumanrights.Theyarebuiltonan
industry-specifichumanrightscodeofconduct,designedbyworkersandtargetedatlongstandingabusesthat
workersintheindustryexperiencefirst-hand.
PLEASEASSESSTHEFOLLOWINGCONCEPT:
"ThemajorityoffashioncompanieshaveembeddedWorker-DrivenInitiatives"
-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly
negative)(highlypositive)
0.4
Impactonrestorationofthenaturalenvironment(average;basedupon18assessmentswithst.dev.=0.85)
-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly
negative)(highlypositive)
2.1
Impactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(average;basedupon19assessmentswithst.dev.=1.22)
0 5 10 15 20 25
8.8
ETM-earliestpossibletimeforthisconcepttoreachmainstreaminyears
(average;basedupon19assessmentswithst.dev.=5.32)
Worker-driven initiatives were seen by respondents as having more potential impact on working conditions and poverty thanon the restoration of natural environment. However, for the latter, participants are less accordant and their answers morespread out. When it comes to the ETM, the average time seems rather repetitive, as equivalent to around 9 years the samefor dispersion - which still remains relatively high amongst respondents.
Especiallyworthnoting
70
A.2.AUTOMATIONREVOLUTION- Comments
Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...
! "
Futureofworkisatopicifeelverypassionateabout.Ofcourseweallwanthumanstodohighvalueworkandmachinesrepetitive,lowskilledwork.Butthisrequiresretraining,re-skillingmillions,particularlywomenorhiddenworkers.Perhapsifweintroducedauniversalbasicincomethatmeetsbasicneeds,buthowrealisticisit?
10 0
universalbasicincomeandprovidingdisplacedworkerswithalternatives.Higherincomegivenautomationshouldtranslatetoincreasedwagesandbenefitstoremainingworkers.
11 0
Thesocialandeconomiccostofmassunemployment.
10 0
Focusingonhumandevelopmentandproductiveassetstosmallholdersproducersmaymitigatethenegativeimpactofautomation.
9 0
thiscouldresultinalargenumberofjoblossessowhatwouldhappentothesepeople?additionallyincreasingspeedtomarketisonlygoingtofeedthefastfashionmachinewhichwouldactuallyhaveadetrimentalimpactontheenvironment,andwouldnothelpchangeconsumerbehaviour.
9 0
Theadoptionofsuchautomationshouldcomealongwithactionstotrai,recycleandincludeworkersinotheractivitiesinthissupplychain.Otherwise,theactionissociallyirresponsible.Companiesshouldtakethecostofthis,otherwiseitwillbecomeacaseinwhichtechnologicaldevelopmenthasmeantanincreaseinthecostofsocialassistance
9 -1
Whilethejobscreatedbyautomationarehigherquality,theywillleadtothelayoffofgarmentworkers,especiallywomenwholackaccesstoeducation.Butthereductioninoverageswouldbehuge.
9 0
It'sinterestingtoseesomanycommentsabouthowdifficultitwouldbetoretrainpeoplewhooncenevermadeclothingandweretrained.IlikeShimmyTech'sformulatosolveproblemsbyautomatingmanualprocesseswithintheproductdevelopmentcycle&toupskillfactoryworkersusingvideogametechnology,touchscreen&speechtotext
5 0
thecreationofalternativesandstandardizationofuniversalbasicincomeforworkersmightnotcopewiththefastdevelopmentintechnologyforautomation.
7 -1
embracingtheIndustry4.0modelforthefashionindustry.Maketoorderratherthanmakeandhopeitsells...
6 -3
[continuedonnextpage]71
A.2.AUTOMATIONREVOLUTION- Comments(continued)
Respondents assumed quite often that the biggest barriers are linked to potential layoffs and in consequence - lack ofemployment - due to automation. Whatsoever, participants mostly agreed that universal basic income would be a facilitatingsolution as well as necessary skilling and re-training workshops. What is important, respondents mostly do not agree with thecomment that full automation might lead to equalization in incomes and positive impact on environment.
Especiallyworthnoting
Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...
! "
Answered0hereontiming..asweneedmoreunderstandofthewhatheretobeabletoanswerimpactandtiming.Sorry-- Iknowthatisatheme.
7 -4
Technologiesendcurrentjobs,butcreatenon-existingothers.Wejustneedtobecarefulwithhumandevelopmenttonotincreaseinequality.
3 0
Idon'tthinkthatitisapriorityinoursocietymoment.Wehavealotofthingstodo.inordertoequalizeincomesandrespectnature,lessworkersandmoremachinesisnotmthemainlythingstodo
5 -4
Theimpactofautomationdependsontheaimsofautomation- iftheyaretoprotectworkersandbettervaluenature- thenengageinautomationpossibilitiesaccordingly.Iftheaimistoincreasemargins,reducesocialresponsibility,increaseproductionandthroughput,thentheresultswillbedetrimentaltoworkersandtonature.
1 0
Idon'tthinkthelifecyclecomplexitiesofclothingmanufacturingeasilylendthemselvestomake- to-orderormake-on-demandmodelsofmanufacturingexceptforhighend/highvalueitems
4 -6
72
B.2.CIRCULARECONOMY- Comments
Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...
! "
thehugeprofitmotiveremains. 10 0
Designpublicpoliciestoincentivizeandcreateaninstitutionalenvironmentfavorableforcircularvaluechain.
9 -1
Thatsomanypeoplebelievethatthecirculareconomyisgoingtosavetheplanetwhileutilizingmoreofit'snaturalresourcestomakemorestuffisinsane.It'sgreattothinkaboutdesigningforcircularitybutit'sevenbettertoconsidermakingless.
9 0
Now,weareinparadise...shurethtaisagreatidea,butthetopicis:how?Alotofstakeholdersshouldbeablletochangehermindinthewayofthecolectiveandnotonlyprivatevantages.Arewepreparedforthat?
8 -2
Unlesstherearetariffs,taxes,andextendedproducerresponsibilitylegislationputintoplacetosupportthecircularity,it'snotgoingtohappen.
9 0
Thisisagooddescriptionforcircularity- alas,itisnottheunderstandingsharedbymanybusinessestalkingaboutit.ifnatureandhumanequityreallyareatthecentreoftheintentionofthosethinkingaboutthis- thenwecanbehopeful- ifthemantraofdoublegrowthhalveimpactisbelieved,thenweareonahidingtodevastation
1 0
Again..thisismuchhardertosayforthesocialside..thatisnotcapturedasdirectly..THetimelinehereasinallisimlythe"concept"notthatthefullideaisrealized.Thisisacriticallydifferentpoint.Onthefullideaimplemented..abitmoreanalysiswouldbeneeded.
8 0
Globalcommitmentofkeyplayersoftheindustry.Eg:post-consumptionspackagesagreementfirmedattheWorldEconomicForumengagedCoca-Cola,Unilever,Danone,P&Gandotherstotransitionto100%compostable,100%reusableand100%recyclablepackagesby2030.
4 -4
[continuedonnextpage]73
B.2.CIRCULARECONOMY- Comments(continued)
It is important to underline that respondents focused more on barriers than on solutions in this section. Profit motives areseen by the majority of commentators as the main barrier for this concept. Moreover, behavioural and cultural aspects offashion industries as well as lack of well-tailored public policies and globalization are considered as main barriers for thisconcept to achieve mainstream. As one of the top comments underlined, companies and governments do not seem ready tofight against inequality of opportunities and social injustice in the field of fashion industry.
Especiallyworthnoting
Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...
! "
Circularityismuchmoreimpactfulwhenitisimplementedlocally,butthecurrentfashionindustryisextremelyglobalized.Thisresourcedistributionwillbeextremelydifficulttoundo.
8 0
theneedfordeepandmassiveculturalchangeonthepartofconsumersthatcouldputpressureonthebehaviourofbigcompanies.
8 0
Thefashionindustrygetsabreakfromlookingattheelephantintheroomwhichisitsenoughtojustkeepmakingmorestuffandrecyclingit.Notsustainablewhenyouaremakingmoreandpullingmoreresourcesevenifkeepingitintheloop.
6 0
globalcooperationwouldberequiredtoachievethis,withenhancedchainofcustodysystemsandthedevelopmentofmaterialsthataresuitableforacircularsystem.Atthemomentwedonothaveadequatetechnologytoseparateandrecycleallfibres.Plusweneedtoconsidertheenvironmentalimpactsoftransportationandprocessing.
5 0
Thiscouldbehugeforenvironment.Notclearonthesocial.Butthetimeittakesforimplementationvsconcpetadoptionscouldbemuchlongerthat10years,dependingontheotherfactorsatplay.Thisdeservesastrategicforesightactivity.
7 -2
74
C.2.CLOTHINGASASERVICE- Comments
Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...
! "
Thiscouldincentivisedesignofhigherqualityclothingwhichcouldwithstandmanywears,reducingdemandandthereforeindustry'snaturalresourcedependency.Howevermoreresearchisneededtakingintoaccountpotentialenvironmentaltradeoffsplussocialimpact,andwhetherthemarketwouldacceptitacrossallclothingcategories.
8 0
I'mexcitedaboutthepotentialofrentingforoccasionsortoexperiment,Ialsoloveowningmylovedclothesthathavehistory&memories,andkeepingthemforalifetime.I'mnot100%clearonthenetenvironmentalimpactofshippingback&forth,drycleaning,packagingetc.Alsointheshorttermthiscouldaffectgarmentworkersegre-skill/re-deploy
9 -1
Thiswouldbeagoodsolutionfortheenvironmentalimpactoftextileproduction- forexamplemorelandcouldbeusedtogrownfoodratherthantextiles,andlessoilcouldbeusedforsynthetics.Butweneedtounderstandtheenvironmentalimpactsofdrycleaning,shippingandotherlogistics.itwouldneeddevelopmentofcleaningtechnologiestostart/
8 0
Ontheonehand,thisbusinessmodelcouldreducethenumberofjobsintheindustry,particularlyinthemainfastfashionsupplyingcountries,butequallyitwouldmeanthatclothingcreatedforrentalwouldneedtobebettermade,whichwouldrequireupskillingworkersandpotentiallycreatingbetterjobs.
9 -1
couldthisendupaffectingemploymentopportunitiesinthepoorestcountrieswherewecurrentlysourcefrom?itcouldinvolveupskillingsomeworkers,butsuchalargeeconomicshiftwouldneedtotakeintoconsiderationalternativeemploymentasthiscouldsignificantlyreducejobopportunities.
7 -1
thehardrealityforourworldinthenext50yearsisthattherewillbetensofmillionsofnewconsumerscomingupofdevelopingeconomieslikeChina&India.Withlimitedresourcesweallhavetoconsumelessforenoughtogoaround.Rentingisagreatsolution.Technologyistheenabler.Companieswillmakemore$sellingservicesthangoods.
8 -1
Thisculturalshiftinconsumers’mindsetisnotdefinitelyalowhangfruit.
6 -3
morebusinessmodelexperimentsinleasingclothes,subscriptionservices,wardrobeinthecloud...
8 -3
challengingconsumer'svaluesofowningandwantforuniqueness,bolsteredbyadvertising.
5 -4
Technologytoeasilyorganize,sort,andprocessthefulfillmentofrentalsandsecondhandclothingwillberequiredtomakethiscosteffective.ThinkRFIDthreadsthatcanbescannedthathelpsAIquicklysortfashion.
7 -2
[continuedonnextpage]75
C.2.CLOTHINGASASERVICE- Comments(continued)
Environmental costs and trade offs of dry cleaning, packaging, shipping and logistics related to clothing service are assumedquite unequivocally as the most significant barriers for this concept. Comments pointing out that introduction of thisinnovation requires changes in consumer's willingness of owning new clothes and huge cultural shift are not valued asimportant by respondents. Respondents in majority also agree that clothing as a service will result in better quality clothesand potentially - better jobs which would require upskilled workers. Moreover, there is a strong congruity that increasingnumber of consumers in the future and progressively limited resources will boost the renting service in the fashion industry,alongside with technology.
Especiallyworthnoting
Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...
! "
Theconceptisapplicableforthewealthygenerationthatwasbornafter1995.Theyalreadylivewithmeaningsproducedcollectively.ButIseeapossibilityoflimitedchangeaboutoldergenerationsandpoorcountries- whowantownershipofclothingandnotpossessionforculturalreasons.
5 -4
HopingI'munderstandingthisoneright.Ifit'saservice,saycustomizationonanexistingpieceofclothing,Iseelotsofopportunitiesforbrandstotapintoeverythingfromtechtoregionalhistorytomakelessclothing&improvewhatcurrentlyexists.Peoplearestillemployed,maybeevenpaidmoreandtheenvironmentlovesgettingtotakeabreather.
6 -3
Thereisnoevidencethat“payasservice”modelisfullyapplicablefornon-durablegoodsasclothes.Italsorequiresahugeculturalshift.Quitedifficulttobelieveitreachesthemainstream.
4 -4
amixedmodelapproachwouldenabledifferentcultures,needs,locationcapabilitiestobebetterengaged.Weshouldnotassumethatincreasingvalue,slowingdownconsumptionnecessitatesreducedemployment.Ifthestartingpointistoofferfulfilling,fairjobs,valuenature'sresroucesandensureviablebusinessmodels- wecanmodeloptions
1 0
theawarenessraisingwithinthefashionindustryandalsotheconsumers.Ifthishappens,thedemandwillbepredictable,therefore,workerscanexpectlong-termandmorestableemployment.
0 -8
76
D.2.CONSUMERLEVELSUSTAINABILITYINDEX- Comments
Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...
! "
Pointofsalesustainabilitytoolsareonlyasgoodastheinformationthatgoesintothem,sohighlydetailedsustainabilityreportingusingacommonglobalframeworkisnecessaryforthetooltobemeaningful.Informationneedstobecomparablebetweenbrandstoinformshoppingchoices,andpresumablythiswouldexcludesmallbrandswithinsufficientdata
13 0
Informationalgovernanceisgrowingwithimpact.Ahighprofilecampaigntoelevatethiswouldbecrtical.
11 -1
Notincludingworkingconditionindex,suchasobservinglivingwage,andnon-exploitativeworkingconditions.
11 0
Similartomypreviouspoint,andagreeingwithothers,Ithinktechnologyinthehandsofconsumershasaroletoplay,andiseethathastheabilitytoreconnectconsumerswithmakers-i.eproductscomefromsomewhere/one&wehavelostthatconnection.Butthemoreimpactfulaspectofthiswouldbethedatacollectedbyindustrytoeffectsystemicchange
9 0
fashionpurchasinginvolvesemotionalaswellasrationalchoices,whilstuseful,thistoolisinsufficientinisolationinrelationtoimprovingworkingconditionsandenvironmentaldegradation.culturechange,designandbusinessmodels,legislationandinvestmentcriteriaallneedtosimultaneouslytakeplace
10 0Giveconsumerspointofsaleinformationtohelpeveryonemakeinformedpurchasingdecisions.
9 -2
[continuedonnextpage]
77
D.2.CONSUMERLEVELSUSTAINABILITYINDEX- Comments(continued)
Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...
! "
Thecomplexityandscopeoftheimpactsofthefashionsupplychainonpeopleandthenaturalenvironmentmeansthatisverydifficulttosummarisesuchimpactsinasingle,consumerfacingindexorscore.Itwouldbeahugetaskforbrandstocollectallthenecessarydataoneveryitemmadeandoversimplificationcouldleadtofalsechoicesbyconsumers.
10 -1
Ilikeverymuchthisidea,Idothinkthatconsumerschoiceisaveryimportantkeytochangetheindustrieschoices.Imean,ideaslikethatispartofsolution,and,Ithink,aimportantpart.
8 -1
Dittotopreviosucomments..theseallneedtobeseentogether- consumerawareenss,narrative,buildingdemandforregulation.
9 -1
Defineclearmetricstodesignenvironmental-Profit&Loss(e-P&L).Eg:Natura&CousingPWC’smethodologymeasuredconsumers’.externalitiesincludingwaste,logisticsandwaterusage.Bydoingthis,awholeofnewinstrumentsandnarrativemaybebuilttoengagetheconsumerasakeystakeholder.
7 -2
Thisisputtingwaytoomuchontheshouldersofconsumerswhoarenotexpertsanddonothavethetimeormotivationtotrytounderstandsuchcomplexassessments.Butasimplifiedratingsystemwouldbecontroversialandhardtoreachaconsensuson.
9 -2
ThereisacaseinBrazilofanappcalled"ModaLivre"("FreeFashion"),whichanalyzesthesupplychain,transparencyandCSRpoliciesofmorethan100companiesandbrandsaboutthefightagainstmodernslavery.Theresultsshowthatmorethan150,000consumershaveusedtheapptopressurecompaniestoadoptnewpolicies.But,ittakestimetoresults.
6 -1
Thearesystemssimilartothis(butsmallscale)suchastheHiggIndexorKering'sopensourceEP&Ltool.Theproblemisthatthesecalculationsarebasedonaveragesoroneexample,wheninrealityeverycottonetc.potentiallyhasdifferentimpactsdependingonwheregrown/howprocessedetc.
7 -1
factsandfiguresaboutsocialandenvironmentalaspectsoffashionneedtobeseeninarelativesense- egNikeMakingappofferscomparisonbetweenoptions,fordesignertomakedecisionsbasedonwhatisofbiggestconcern.Wholelifecycleanalysisonfashionincludeswearerpractices,whichneedtobefactoredintothesetools.
2 0
Whilea"sustainableconsumption"indexisgreatintheory,therealchallengeisthattheconsequencesofscarestoriesornegativeattentionaffectsbusiness'bottomlinestoamuchgreaterextent.Therefore,translatingwideadoptionofanindexbyshoppersintosubstantiveresultswillbedifficult.
7 -2
Whilstaccesstoverifiableandverifiedinformationaboutproductscanbeveryhelpfulinaidingdecisionmakingprocesses,fashionpurchasingdecisionsareseldomsolelyrationalsocialacceptabilityofproducts/materials/fashionhabitsisessentialalongsideinformation.
2 0
[continuedonnextpage]78
D.2.CONSUMERLEVELSUSTAINABILITYINDEX- Comments(continued)
Technological tools such as phone applications associated with production and supply chain information are the mostrepeated solutions’ proposals by respondents. It is also worth mentioning the idea regarding establishing environmental profitand loss account in order to engage also the consumer as a stakeholder and introduce mechanisms of environmental footprintanalysis. The most called barrier is related to the collection of the data and, as a result, simplified rating system, based onaveraged calculations. Such a system will not display detailed information and might be controversial, according torespondents of the study.
Especiallyworthnoting
Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...
! "
Becausechemicalusageinmanufacturingcountriesdoesn'taffectconsumersdirectly,consumerswon'tbeincentivizedtodotheirresearch.Andiftheydid,theymightnotunderstanditanyway,unlessitwasdistilleddownintoanincrediblyreductiveandsimple(andcontroversial)grade.
7 -3Thiscouldresultfrommobilizinganalysisthatisdonetogetherwiththeindustry.
4 -6
Engajetheconsumerstoanalysetheinformationprovidedandmakeachoicebasedonthat.Thinkingaboutthefoodlabelling,whichgiveimportantinformationtotheconsumer(suchasthecontentofsodium,fat,sugar...):howmanyofthemdoreallyleavetheprodutontheshelfbasedonthenutritionfacts?
6 -3
Italldependsontheambitionofthetools- iftheaimistovaluenatureandlabour- thenthecontentneedstoreflectthis- ifitsaboutencouragingpeopletoswitchfromonekindofconsumptiontoanother- ieifconsumptionisatthecentreofthis-thenthetoolisverylimitedatbest- deceptiveandgreenwashingatworst
3 0
Thesetoolsoftentakeareductionistapproach,reducingproblem,ratherthanofferingnewpossibilities- ifthesetoolsareexpandedtotalkaboutstoriesoflowerconsumptionthejoyofkeeping,sharing,mendingetcaswellastalkingaboutpurchase,thentheycouldhavefargreaterpossibilityforpositivechange.
1 -2
79
E.2.EXTENDEDPRODUCERRESPONSIBILITY- Comments
Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...
! "
Ifthelegislationonlyappliestothelargest
companies.Legislationneedsacomparativelylow
turnoverthreshold.
11 -1
Therewouldbewidespreadpublicsupportfor
thistypeoflegislation.Itshouldincludenotjust
theproduct,butanyassociatedpackaging-
particularlyrelevanttounsoldshoes,jewellery
etcwhichcanbeheavilypackagedinbagsand
boxes.
11 0
Thelackoftoolstopressurecompaniestoengage
inthischangewithoutbeingforcedonthepartof
theStates.
10 0
Thiswouldbereallyvaluable,asconsumers
makeeffortstorecycleanddisposeresponsibly
buttherealgainsareatsystemlevel,by
governmentandcorporations.Iwouldgo
upstreamandproposethatlegislationshould
targetproductionandpackagingstandards
beforetheyevenenterthesystem.
10 0
TheUnitedStateshasafreemarketfetish,and
powerfullobbyinggroupsthatcleverlymanageto
alwaysputtheresponsibilityfordisposingproperly
of,frankly,unrecyclablematerialsatthefeetof
consumers.
10 0Needtodemonstratethenetpositiveforkey
actors.Ithinkthiscouldbedone.10 -2
theindustriesinterest.Andthecommitmentofthe
industrieinassumethecosts.Butisimprescindible
ainiciativelikethat.
8 -1
Theengagementofdevelopedcountriesto
pressuretheircompaniestofinancethe
adaptationofproductioninpoorcountries.
8 -2
[continuedonnextpage]80
E.2.EXTENDEDPRODUCERRESPONSIBILITY- Comments(continued)
In this section respondents seem to be quite consistent with their proposals. They often point out that main barriers areassociated to lack of incentives from the side of companies but also, if EPR introduced, lack of tools for oversight, control andenforcement of EPR if not respected. What is significant is that comments mentioning difficulties or impossibilities regardingimplementation of EPR are negatively evaluated. Most solutions are designed around engagement and support from the partof both society and developed countries to introduce such a measure. Participants also underlined a need for EPR coveringnot only big companies but also local ones as well as packaging standards.
Especiallyworthnoting
Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...
! "
Lackofwillingnessofbigproducerstoshoulderthe
costsofEPR.6 0
Nowwedohavetechnologies(suchAIand
BlockChain)totracethevaluechain,implement
smartcontractsandrequireaccountabilityand
responsibilityforallthechain.
1 0
EffectiveEPRwillmostlikelyrequireimpeccablecross-bordercommunicationandincentives.Suchpolicieswillbeverydifficulttocoordinate.
6 -3
thecomplexityoffashion.Forinstance:thereare
unsoldgoodsalsobecauseoftheweather.If
duringtheWintertheweatherdoesn'tgetascold
asexpecteditwillbealotofcoatsunsold.Of
coursethereisalotofsolutionsforthat,suchas
"refresh"theunsoldgoodstoselltheminthenext
year,butitstilltooexpansiveforthe
brands/industry.
4 -4
aniceideathatishardtoenforce 6 -5
81
F.2.FIBERSANDPROCESSINGINNOVATION- Comments
Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...
! "
Hardtosaytimingorimpactonthisone..asit
depndsonwhatnewfibresandprocessesare.
Smartmaterialshavelotsofpotential..buthardto
assesswithoutabitofmoreresearch.
11 0
Iftherewasmoreinvestmentfromgovernments
andfashionbrandsandretailers.Therearesome
pioneeringbrands(Levis,H&M,Adidasetc)
leadingtheway,butoverallrelativelyfew
brandsareworkingonorinvestingininnovative
solutionsandnewtechnologies.
10 0
Likemypreviousanswer,thisisgreatforthe
environmentandinvestmentshouldbemadeinto
researchingnewsmartmaterialsandmakethem
mainstream,butwemustalsoconsider
implicationsforglobalgarmentworkers,farmers,
growersetc.Istillfeeltherealissueisover-
consumptionandwecannotjustbuyourwayout
ofthis.
8 0R&Donsustainablematerialsthatwoulduse
theleastamountofenergy.7 -2
Notlookingathowthesenewfibersand“lab
grown”materialsinteractwiththecarboncycle,
thefeedstocksgrowntofuelsyntheticbiology,and
whoisimpactedbytheselandscapepressuresisa
hugeoversight.ThereAREgreattechnologiesbut
stilllotsofchemicals.Pickyourpoison.
8 0
greateruseoftechnologyingeneraltosolve
someofoursocialandenvironmentalchallenges
wouldhelppushthesciencealong.
6 -3
Whatistherawmaterialimpactinvolvedinthe
productionoftheserecyclablefibers?Theimpact
couldbesmallatthetimeofrecycling,buthighat
initialproduction.Inadditiontheusingofmaterials
producedinthelaboratoryusuallyexcludeworkers
whoworkintheproductionofnaturalfibers.It's
necessarytothinkhowtoincludethematthis
chain
8 0
aspartofanewfashionsystem- ieoneofthe
workablepossibilities,whenbalancedwith
others.thematerialmixneedstobediversified
forsure.differentstyles,peoples'needs,
locationsetcrequiredifferentmaterials- atthe
moment,wearetooreliantoncottonandon
polyester- itsaboutbroadeningwhatweuse
0 0
evenifsuchtechnologiesbecomecost-competitive
andmainstreamed,theywillstillrequireenergy
andwater,orotherenvironmentalinputs.It's
difficulttounderstandhowtheirusagewillleadto
net-positiveimpact,asopposedto"lessbad"
(whichiscertainlypossible).
8 -1
Developingnewtechnologiestoscale,reduce
asymmetricinformationandgainefficiencymay
help.
2 -3
[continuedonnextpage]82
F.2.FIBERSANDPROCESSINGINNOVATION- Comments(continued)
In this section, predominant number of comments regards barriers and not solutions. Participants often point out that newfibers and processing have implications for their natural substitutes - as they are excluding global garment workers, farmingeconomies. Such technologies require also lots of environmental inputs and large number of chemicals. What is also worthmentioning, is a comment underlining that new fibers technology do not reduce the problem of overproduction and waste.The most valued solutions regard need for more investment from governments, fashion brands and retailers to work on newtechnologies as well as investment in R&D to create materials. Such an approach would be more energy efficient.
Especiallyworthnoting
Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...
! "
theissueisthatthisdoesnothelptheperception
ofclothingbeingdisposable- companieslikeH&M
areresearchingrecyclingtechnologies,butsothat
theycanstillcontinuetosellatridiculousvolumes,
lettingcustomersbelieveitiszeroimpactasthe
clotheswillberecycledwhentheyarefinished
withthem.
7 0
wealsoneedtoconsidertheimplicationsfor
naturalfibres,farmingeconomies,potentiallossof
jobs.howeverifthepopulationkeepsgrowingand
consumptionkeepsgoingupwhoknowwhat
affectthissystemwouldhave
7 0
Thesetechnologiesaregreatfortheenvironment,
butwhathappenstothemillionsoffarmerswho
relyoncotton,hemp,linen,leather,silk,etc.for
theirlivelihoodwhenallofourfabricsbecome
semi-syntheticorsynthetic?
7 -1
theworldinequality.Idon'tseenewtypesoffibres
andprocessingtechnologiesimpactingpositevely
onpoverty,becausethefibresproducerswould
stayondevelopedordevelopingcountries,
improvingthetechnologyandtheirknowledge,
whiletheundevelopedcountrieswouldstay
"serving"theotherones(withcheapworkforce,
i.e.).
6 -1
Idon'tthinkthatisamatteroftechnology.Sure,
technologycanhelp,butwehavealotofpriority
decisions,likewearediscussinghere,before
believethattechnologywillsaveus!
6 -3
83
G.2.GLOBALAWARENESS- Comments
Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...
! "
Aglobalmarketingstrategyisrelativelyeasyto
agreeupon,itmakesbusinesssenseaseven
brandswhohaven'tcaredsofarnowmustcare,
becausetheirconsumersdo.Theproblemis
greenwashingVsrealchange.Thereisalackof
agreementonvocabulary,numbers,dataetcand
thismurkinessallowssometopushmessagesout
withoutcreatingrealchange.
9 0
producingalsoacoherentvoicethat
sustainabilityincludesworkers'wages,health
andsafety;thatconsumerinterests'are
necessarilylinkedtothoseoftheproducers'
includingthoseinthesupplychain.Theglobal
awarenessstrategyshouldtherefore,address
systemicproblemsleadingtoconsumer'scritical
masstakingactiontopressuretocompanies.
8 0
Theinterestsofindustry.Ihavemydoubtsifthey
couldandwantdothat.But,itisanecessary
action,ifwereallywannatoachievegoodimpacts
insustainabilityquestionsANDworkerslife
conditionsandincomes.
9 -1
Thisstrategyneedstobefoundedon
transparency,sothatitisownedbyconsumers
andthepublic,ratherthanthecompanies
themselves.Radicaltransparencyandadoption
ofdata-drivensolutionswillhelptoprevent
greenwashing.
8 0
Theproblem:amarketingcampaignshowingthe
realcausesofthelabourexploitationandthe
environmentdamageswillhavelittlesuccess
becauseitwillpointtoresponsibilities,anda
campaignthatonlytouchestheproblem
superficiallyhasagreatchanceofsuccess.
8 -1
Globalawarenessmustbeabusinessimperative.
Weneedtousethepowerofbusinesssectoras
aforceforgoodandembeditintheglobal
agendaofeconomicsystem.
7 -1
Maynotbepossibleforalotofsmallbrandsand
startups2 -10
Thereisincreasingmovementtowardsthis,but
thereisstillalackofeducationforbrands
themselvestobeabletocommunicate
accuratelywithconsumers,orconsistently.The
UnionofConcernedResearchersaimstoaddress
thisbydevelopingstandardterminologyand
updatingopensourceresourceslikeWikipedia
(notacademicbutthe1stplacepeoplelook)
6 0
Narrowdowntheideaof"sustainability"to
somethingincommonlike(ex)ahugeindustry
wideacknowledgementofwaterscarcityand
pollutionandworktoremedytheproblemsasa
globalcohort.Betransparentaboutwhat
challengesareandstepsbeingtakentoremedy.
Useprogressasmessagetoshowcomplexity.
5 -1
[continuedonnextpage]84
G.2.GLOBALAWARENESS- Comments(continued)
It is worth mentioning that respondents more often focused on seeking for solutions than obstacles for this concept.Participants often note that an enabler for the global awareness strategy are tools ensuring transparency and oversight of agood implementation. Engagement from various sectors; starting from business, through marketing, branding and ending atgovernments and citizens is also needed to ensure sustainability. The last comment, although only with one thumb up, coversthis idea. It is worth noting, that lack of large number of evaluation of this specific comment might be due to the latesubmission of the comment, e.g. just before closing the study, which does not impact the accuracy of the idea. Main obstaclesconsist in lack of incentives and interest in the industry sector as well as risk of greenwashing.
Especiallyworthnoting
Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...
! "
changingtheorientationoftheindustrytowean
awayfromcurrentmodelofdemandinghigh
qualityproductsattheleastpossiblecosts,
whichinducesaracetothebottomintermsof
wagesofbenefits.
5 -4
ExtinctionRebellion,SchoolsforClimateStrikes,
FashionRevolutionareegsofthisstartingto
happen.Academicinstitutionscanalsoteach
longtermthrivingofgraduatesalongsidetheir
shorttermemployment
1 0
thateveryone- businesses,citizens,educators,
politiciansetcREALLYwanttocommitto
environmentalandsocialsustainability- notthat
theywanttofindwaystoreducerisksofcurrent
practice.Itwouldbeachievableiftheaimplaces
natureatitsheart- witheconomyasa
constituentpart,notviceversa
1 0
Thisisinfactalreadyunderwaywithco-
operationbetweene.g.EllenMacarthur
Foundation,GlobalFashionAgenda,etc.
4 -5
85
H.2.HIGHCONCENTRATION- Comments
Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...
! "
Aindustryactionisfundamental,butwillmainly
reachtheformalandregularmarket.Inaddition,
therearelargecompaniesthathaveavoidedacting
inacollectiveactiontoimprovingtheirsupply
chainstoavoidrevealingwhotheirsuppliers.
9 0
Collaborationiskey- ifcorporationscanlook
pastshareholders'valueonly.Assumingintentis
there,thedifficultyisthefragmentationof
supplychains.Transparentandopendatacould
help.Atthemomentmanylargeindustryplayers
onlyhavedataabouttoplinesuppliers.Thisisa
massiveissueforanyconcertedeffort.
9 -1
thatindustry-wideactionwillonlyworkiftheleast
commondenominatorcompaniesdonotlowerthe
standardsforeveryone.
9 0
Developacommunityofpracticestoprototype
collaborativesolutionsthatmayinfluence
systemchange.
7 -3
Again,theinterestsofindustries,butitwillbe
great,itsoundslikeamusic,thebigindustries
doingeffortstosolvetheproblemsthatthey
created.
9 -1
Iseethecollaborationofbigplayerson
consumptionandproductionsideiscritical.this
couplewithothersinthefullecocsystemofthe
goodsandservicesaroundthisindustryis
critical.
6 -2
Todate,theindustryhasbeensingularly
uncollaborative,soachievingthislevelof
collaborationmaybeharderthananticipatedasit
willinvolveachangeateverylevelofabrandfor
themtoworktogethertoenforcesustainable
solutions.
8 -1
Haveamastermindlikecohortthataidsthe
industryandiscomprisedofspecialistsinallthe
areasof"sustainability."Theglobalplayershave
togothroughthatonebodytomessageout
whattheyareactuallydoing.ImagineClean
ClothesCampaignmeetstheNRDCyetthey
worktogetherasone.Soundscrazybut...
4 -1
Thereiscurrentlyalackofcollaborationandeven
consensusonterminologyandnecessaryactionsto
improvesocialandenvironmentalconditionsinthe
fashionsystem.TheParisAgreementisalready
provingtobedifficulttofollow/enforce,soitis
difficulttoimaginehowwecouldreachaglobal
consensus
7 0
ifthemembershipincludesrepresentationofall
involvedinthesystem,equityinvoiceand
supportforthosewhoseinvolvementmay
involveriskforthemandwhotheyrepresent.
1 0
[continuedonnextpage]86
H.2.HIGHCONCENTRATION Comments(continued)
According to the comments, potential lowering of standards by companies might be a barrier to achieve effective "collectiveaction" within fashion industry as well as fragmentation of supply chains. Moreover, a few participants also underline the factthat industries seem to be intrinsically uncollaborative. Such a situation would be an obstacle towards reaching a consensus inthe future, especially between big companies who are big stakeholders and small companies, responsible for small shares. Asa solution, a few respondents proposed that gathering and stocking of data as well as transparency would be a remedium forfragmented supply chain. Eventually, creation of group of experts for sustainability might foster collaboration betweencompanies.
Especiallyworthnoting
Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...
! "
Althoughthereisconsolidationinbrand/retailand
existingvehiclesforpre-competitiveco-operation
thesupplychainsarehighlyfragmented.Thebig
playerswillfindithardtospreadbestpracticeto
the80%ofactorswhomakeuo20%ofthe
industry
7 -1
ego 4 -5
87
I.2.HIGHLYDETAILEDSUSTAINABILITYREPORTING Comments
Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...
! "
Thisisasuperimportantavenueforchange.But
gettingthedatatodothiseffectively,andpressure
toenablethis..itwouldtakebroadersocial
pressureswithtiesthistotheotheritemsonthis
list.
13 0
transparencyandaccountabilityfromfarmto
storebybrands.Easytounderstandand
acceptabledisclosuresaroundsocialand
environmentalimpactaccessibleatthepointof
sale
11 0
ASwithmanyoftheitemsinhissurveythey
cannotbeseeninosialation.Thecooridnation
aroundkeylayers,coupledwithcosumer
awarenesscanhelptofacilitatereagulationand
taxes.Iseetheseeachtimelineascritically
dependentontheothers.
12 0
Buildingananlaysisthatshowstheimpacton
society/environmentandontheindustry
bottomline.Thiswouldhavetobedoneina
highprofilemannertogalvenizesupportand
attention.
10 0
Theactionofthebanksandthefinancialsystemis
veryimportant.However,onlydemandingreports
withoutthefinancialinstitutionsthemselvesbeing
forcedtoinvestigatetheirpartners'chainsis
innocuous.Althoughrelevant,USandUKlawsare
limitedtoself-declaration.Australia'snewlaw
promisestobedifferent,butit'sveryrecentyet
10 0
Ensurethatinvestorslookatthelong-term
performanceofcompaniesinsteadofshort-
termtargets(shouldnotbeatthecostofthe
longtermapproach).Incentivizebestpractices
andempoweremployees...Keepsustainability
frontofmindforleadership,advocate
for/supporttransparencyregulation(e.g.
California’sSupplyChainsAct)...
10 0
Yes,certificationcouldbeatoolforthat,butsowe
needmuchmoretransparency.Theexcuseof
confidentialityisusedtogivelessinformationto
consumersandwereallydon´tknowifthe
compromiseofthecertificationservices/industryis
withthesocitetyorwiththeirclients.
10 0
Weareheavilyreliantoncertificationsandfor
metheyshowaverynarrowviewofthe
picture.Technology,withtherightpolitical
backing,canplayasignificantroleinmaking
complexsupplychainsmoretransparent,and
companiesmoreaccountable.Currentlyitfeels
liketheseprojectsarealittlegimmickyaslarge
companiesdon'twantthedataexposed
9 0
whatwouldtherequirementsbe?therearemany
initiativesaroundwhichrequireminimum
standards,andsotheiroverallimpactisdebatable.
Theidealwouldbetohaveagloballyagreed
systemthatdifferentindustriesandbusinesses
couldadheretoinaconsistentway- currentlywe
havesomanyreportingframeworksetc.thatthere
isinconsistency
9 0
Designincentivestructureinthefinancial
marketsforlenderstoembedbestsocialand
environmentalpractices.Eg:BNPParibas
lended2BEURtoDanoneincentivizingthemto
performsociallyandenvironmentallybetter.
9 -1
Ifthedevelopmentofthecertifiedstandard
systemdidnotincludeworkers'unionssincewage
standardsespeciallyincountrieswherethesupply
chainresidesareoftenbelowlivingstandards.
SlaveryconditionsalsoexistinAsiancountries,
relativelyunknowntopublicbutallowedby
governments.ThiswasrevealedbytheRanaPlaza
tragedyinBangladesh.
8 -1
Fullytransparentverificationmechanisms,with
realconsequencesforthosecompaniesthatdo
notfullycomplywithreportingrequirements.
8 0
[continuedonnextpage]88
I.2.HIGHLYDETAILEDSUSTAINABILITYREPORTINGComments(continued)
For this concept, respondents were more keen to comment about solutions than barriers, however both proposals have beendone. On one hand, lack of transparency due to confidentiality policy, current lack of concrete requirements for the report aswell as potential involvement of financial institutions in investigation of partners' supply chains seem to be the main barriersfor highly detailed reporting system. On the other hand, ensuring transparency and accountability on every stage ofproduction within the fashion industry as well as analysis on the impact on environment and society are two best valuedsolutions for this concept. Moreover, incentive policy and verification mechanisms, according to respondents, would ensureeffective functioning of the detailed reporting. Eventually, this idea has been pointed out as a barrier and solution - need forclearer and concrete language what is permitted and prohibited would help fostering sustainable fashion sector.
Especiallyworthnoting
Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...
! "
havenoaccesstonewfinancingsthateventually
wouldimprovethetechnologiesintextile
productionandconsequentlyimpactpositivelythe
restorationofthenaturalenvironment.That'swhy
Ithinkthatthisscenariocanimpactworking
conditionsmorethanimpacttherestorationofthe
environment.
3 -5
Ifthepoliticalwillisthere,thiscouldbebrought
intolawrapidly.Itwouldneedtogobeyondthe
FrenchandSwissexamplesandthechallenge
wouldbeextendingtosmallerbrands.Recording
purchasingpractices,wages,etcisrelatively
straightforwardandalreadypartofmany
companyreportsbutreportingonsupplychain
impactisfarmorechallenging.
10 -2
Defineverifiable,credibleandcomparable
standardsforsocialandenvironmentalimpact-
particularlythosealignedwiththe2030SDGs.
Startmeasuringandreportingpubliclyto
stakeholders.
8 -2
possible,withtherightpoliticalwill.Mostlikely
inEuropefirst,andonlyintheU.S.ifwehavea
seachangeinourpoliticalsystemin2020.
8 -3
Thereneedstobeestablishedaclearerlanguage
andunderstandingamonginvestorsaboutwhat
companiescandotogetmoreinvestment.
Investors/shareholdershavesomuchpower
overcreatingamoresustainableapparelsector
andtodevelopawholenewrelationshipwith
largebrands.
4 0
AccordingtoJPMorgan,ESG(environment,
socialandgovernance)investmentsrepresent
USD24trillion(from280trillionofassetsunder
management).Togrowthisflowisimportantto
haveverifiable,credibleandcomparable
metrics.Thisisakeyinputtomeasureand
reporttostakeholders,includinginvestors.
2 0
Developawholenewvaluechainbasedonfixing
andadjustingclothing.3 -4
Especiallyworthnoting
89
J.2.INTRODUCINGRESALE/SECOND-HANDMODELS- Comments
Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...
! "
Notsureonthesocialimpactside..thiscouldgo
eitherway.Ontheenvironmentsidehardtonot
seethisasanoverallhugepoistive..butthe
culturalchangetomakethishappenissingificant..
andiswhatwouldtakeawhiile.
11 -1 betterandmoreconvenienttakebackprograms 12 0
Iseemuchmorevalueinsecondhandthan
recyclingasitcurrentlyis.Wemustencourageit.
Thereareglobalissueslikedumpingtopoorer
countrieswithalltheconsequencesthishas,and
there'sarealconcernaboutretrainingand
repurposingmillionsofgarmentsworkersglobally.
Can'tbesolvedononesidewithoutconsidering
system-levelsolutions
10 0
Thisisnotjustaboutsecond-hand,weneedto
dealwiththehugequantityofunsoldstockin
theindustry.Innovativesolutionswillbeneeded
toturnunsaleablepre-consumerproductsinto
saleableones- bothatfactoryandretaillevel-
coupledwithincreasedconsumerawarenessof
whathappenstounsoldstock
12 0
Thepovertyquestionisatrickyoneasitcouldbe
arguedthatcheapsecondhandclothingbeing
dumpedonsubsaharanAfricaorLatinAmericaisa
benefittomanyfamilieslivinginpovertywhocan't
affordnewclothingbut,longterm,preserving
nationalmanufacturingandbanningsecondhand
clothingimportscouldprovidemoreandbetter
jobslocally
9 -1
We'veseenahugechangeonconsumer
sentimentaroundsecondhandinthepastfive
years,andthere'snoreasonthatwillstop.
Onlinestoresmakefindingwhatyouwantinthe
secondhandversioneasy.Itwillbeahugeboon
totheenvironment-- waymorethanlocal
manufacturing.
10 0
Thiscouldhaveapositiveimpactonthe
environment,howeverwithgrowingpopulations
andagrowingmiddleclassaroundtheworld,will
productionofvirginproductsstillcontinueto
increase?Wewouldneedtoconsiderthelogistics-
itemswouldneedtobeefficientlyprocessedand
repairedforresale,andunsellableitemswould
needtoberecycled
8 0
FromTreehugger:"Secondhandclothingretailer
thredUPhasjustreleaseditsannualfashion
resalereport,andthemarketisbooming.
thredUPreportsthat,overthepastthreeyears,
resalehasgrown21timesfasterthanapparel
retail.Thesecondhandmarket,currentlyworth
$24billion,isexpectedtoreach$51billionin
fiveyears."
9 -1
Wecurrentlyhaveamassiveproblemwith
overproduction,unsoldstock,andlowquality
garmentsthatarenotfitforthesecondhand
market.Weneedtostartbyaddressingthese
issuesofoverproductionandquality,whichwould
thenenableahigherqualitysecondhandmarket.
8 0
Taxescouldincentivethatidea.Wecanhavetop
modelsusingrecycleandusedclothes,inbig
campaigns,combinewithreallyatractiveprices.
8 -1
iftheresale/second-handportionpalesin
comparisontotheotherportionofcompanies'
business,sotheystillchurnout'virgin'goods
becausethedemandpersists.
8 -1
[continuedonnextpage]90
J.2.INTRODUCINGRESALE/SECOND-HANDMODELS Comments(continued)
Respondents often reported an obstacle or even a risk of dumping second hand clothes to poor Sub-Saharian African or LatinAmerican countries, which might in consequence cause not only social but also environmental problem.s (due to large stock ofwaste) Moreover, resale/second-hand clothing require high-quality products to be reusable, for this reason fashion industrywould need improved quality standards, as advised by the last comment in barriers section (to be noted, low score overalldoes not value the adequacy of the comment, it is necessary to take into account also the time of posting). When it comes tosolutions, numerous concrete proposals were given by respondents. For example, the idea of take back programs was themost welcomed amongst all the comments. A few also underlined a need for innovative solutions aimed at decreasing thequantity of unsold stock and turn it into saleable clothes. Whatsoever, an idea of incentives in form of tax reliefs would helpfoster the trend of promoting used clothes by big companies.
Especiallyworthnoting
Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...
! "
Iftherubbishofdevelopedcountriesisnot
exportedtopoorcountries,theideaisnotbad.
Theproblemisthattheexperienceshowsthat
poorcoustrieswillbuygarbagewhatwouldcreate
environmentalproblemsandstealmanufacturing
jobsinthenameofbadqualityclothing.
8 -1
thinkingdifferentlyaboutwhatthismeansin
differentcultures,locations,agegroups,
professions- ratherthanaonesizefitsall,the
ideaofvintage,sharingclothes,re-use- thisisa
hugecreativeopportunity- tofinddistinction
thatisrelevantandappropriateatparticular
scale/placeorarangeofscales.itsabouta
diversesetofmodels
1 0
thehugeculturalbarrierthatrefusessecond-hand
stock,thereforerequiringproductionofdurable
andqualityclothingthatwillendureresale.
8 -1
theneedforworkers'alternativessincetherewill
belessdemandformanufacturingjobs.8 -1
Wewouldneedtoreviewseriouslyquality
standardsaswewouldbeimproveproducts
durability.
3 0
91
K.2.MAJORITYOFCLOTHINGISLOCALLYPRODUCED- Comments
Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...
! "
Thismaybebig..butnotsure..someanalysisshow
thattransfortinlongsuplychainsinsomeindustry
issmallrelativetootherfactors.Worthmore
analysis.
11 -1 ...amassivechangeinculturalbehavior. 10 0
Thisoneisnotalwayssimple.Incarbonfootprint
analysis,itisoftensurprisinghowlittlethe
footprintoftransportoffoodcontributesrelative
tootherfactors.Iwouldsaythatthismaybeworth
ananalysis.alongwithotherfactors.Couldbethat
thisisbig..butmaynotbeasbigasotherleversin
theend.
11 -1
buildingverticallyintegratedlocalindustry,
especiallysincesomeareusedtomaterialsthat
arenotavailableintheirowncountries.The
impacttoworkingconditionscanbeensuredif
unionsareallowedandareexistinginallpartsof
thechain.
9 0
Willeveryone,includingthepoorest,haveaccess
tothistechnology?9 0
Notsurewehaveallthedataandscenario
planningtoassessthisyet.Echocommentson
impactofglobaltransportsVsotherfashion
processes.Therearepositivestoaglobalsupply
chainthatallowsdifferentcountriesto
contributetheirskillsandresources.The
problemistheabusebyrichcountries.
Personalisedlocallymadeclothingisgreatbut
nich
8 -1
Thesewingismainlybasedwherethefinancialand
economicconditionsarefavorableforthe
industries/brands.Ithinkitwouldtakealongtime
tobreakthislogic,butifthishappenandthe
majorityofclothingwouldbelocallyproduced,
imaginetheimpactoncarbonfootprint!Itwould
beahugeimpactontherestorationofthenatural
environment.
8 -1
Reinvestinginexistinginfrastructurecould
enableregionssuchastheUKtorevive
traditionalmanufacturingindustries.
Governmentswouldneedtoinvestin
incentivisationforapprenticeshipsandskills
developmentwhichhavebeendecliningas
youngergenerationsnolongerwishtoworkin
theseindustries.
8 -1
Reshoringornearshoringmanufacturingwould
requirehugeinvestmentintraining,alongside
higherwages,higherenergybills,etc.Evenwith
greaterautomation,therewouldstillneedtobe
millionsofgarmentworkersworkinglocallytothe
majorhubsofconsumption.
8 -2
Encouragingnaturalclothes,withlocalfibersor
reusing,customizingorrecyclingclothesand
fibers,and,sure,showtconsumersallvantages
ofthesepractices
7 -2
Noteveryrawmaterialisavailableinacommunity.
Unlessacommunitydecidestowearonlyonetype
ofclothing,derivedfromjustonerawmaterial,itis
hardtoimaginethattheproblemofsupplychains
willbesolved.
7 -1
reviewingwhatwemeanbylocal- toinclude
localmarketsaroundtheworld- locallyrelevant
styles- localis,bydefinition,differentthingsin
differentplaces.tothinkoflocallyasnetworked
hetterarchiesratherthanhierarchies,co-
operativesetcaswellasthematerialand
productionelementsoflocal.
1 0
[continuedonnextpage]92
K.2.MAJORITYOFCLOTHINGISLOCALLYPRODUCED Comments(continued)
For clothes to be locally produced, one should firstly break the logic of producing only at financial and economic conditions.Moreover, locality does not seem to solve the problem of environmental footprint. What also seems important is that themain barrier of the local production is that not every raw material is available in a specific geographic area. A solution to that,as pointed out by one of the last comments, would be to use sustainable materials sourced both globally and locally andbuilding vertically integrated local industry. Whatsoever, a few underlined that change in cultural behaviour is needed for thisconcept to be achieved as well as a concrete definition what does local exactly means.
Especiallyworthnoting
Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...
! "
Themajorityofrawmaterialscomefromcountries
whicharenotthemainclothingconsumers.If
'locallyproduced'isreferringtothewholesupply
chain,Ican'tseesignificantgrowingand
processingofcotton,forexample,happeningin
Europeanytimesoon.Andsuspectafully
automatedindustryisfurtherawaythanwethink.
7 -2
Thisismoreaboutdevelopingcommunitiesthan
netpositiveenvironmentalimpact.Agoodway
goodbeorganizesmallergroupstoproducein
largerscaleanduniformedstandards.
2 -6
Thatwhenwethinkoflocallyproducedclothing
wearethinkingofclothingjustmadefromlocal
materials.Ifwearetalkingaboutcreatingwork
locallyandusing"sustainable"materialssourced
globallyaswellaslocallythenthismakesmore
sensenow.FibershedcreatedaUSnetworkof
"Producers"thatwecanlearnfrom.
5 0
Transportationhasarelativelylowcarbonimpact
comparedtodyeingandprocessing,sotheimpact
oflocalproductionispotentiallysmall
7 -4
Ijustdon'tseeconsumersembracingplastic
printedclothingandspray-onclothinganytime
soon.MaybeI'mwrong,butthesetechnologiesare
stillquiteawkwardandunattractive.
5 -3
Achievescaleoflocalproducersandalignitwith
performancestandardsoflargerretailers.1 -6
93
L.2.TAXREGULATIONSFORINCREASINGSUSTAINABILITY- Comments
Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...
! "
Theconceptisgood,especiallyifresourcesare
revertedtoworkersandsmallproducers.The
discussionhereinvolvesregulation.Fewcountries
arewillingtodothisindividually,whichwould
requirearticulationviainternationalbodies.That
is,aslowaction.
10 0
Environmentaltaxesandreliefsare
commonplaceinmanycountriesandtargeted
taxesi.epolluterpays,ortaxbreaksfor
renewables,canhelpinspecificareassuchas
climatechange.Corporationtaxneedstobe
increasedacrosstheboardtocoverexternal
costs,togetherwithaclampdownontax
avoidanceandcorruption,andanti-avoidance
policies.
12 0
lackofagreementbetweentheglobal
communitiesaboutwhatthislookslikeandhowto
executethis.
9 -1
Idon'tknowhowtoanswerquestionslikethat...
andothers...arewetalkingaboutarealworld?If
weare,soitisagreatandfuncionalidea.But,
whatleveoftaxes?1or90%?And...inwhich
countries?Richorpoors?Withaweakor
strongerstate?well...intheory,Itisagoodidea.
9 0
Taxregulationwouldbegoodanditcouldbe
designedtoincentivizethosewhomake
differently.Thebarriersaremetricstomakeit
objectively.
8 0
Ifallgovernmentsactontheircommitmentto
theParisAgreement,thenprosperitywillbe
measuredbeyondtheblinkeredviewofGDP.
thustaxregulationswillbeseenasameansto
createprosperityinsocial,environmental,
culturalandeconomicdimensionswithin
countriesaswellasonaglobalscale
9 -1
TheUKgovtrecentlyrejectedrecommendationsto
useatexincentivesystemtocleanupfashion,so
thisisachallenge.Ialsoagreewiththecomment
thatthepeoplelowerdownthesupplychaincould
actuallybearthebruntofthis- ortheconsumer
withraisedprices.Willbusinessesactuallyever
takeahittotheirprofitsforthegreatergood?
8 0
Ifwecanprovideincentivesforcompaniesto
makemoremoney,wecanusesomecritical
thinkingandintroducecreativetaxregulations
targetedatincreasingsustainabilityandgiving
breakstocompaniesmakingmeasurable
change..Ex:sharingnewtechnologiesand
creatingtoolkitsthathelpotherbrandscurb
waste.
5 0
Taxregulationsalongthesupplychaincouldmean
lessmoneyforgarmentworkers,farmersand
otherareasofproductioninthesupplychain.It's
alwaysthebottomofthesupplychainthattakes
thebruntofthesecertificationsandregulations
mostitseems(intermsofwheretaxmoneyneeds
tocomefromtopay).
7 -3
Let'sstartwithacarbonfeeanddividend
scheme,andthenmoveontoother
environmentalareassuchaschemicalusage,
extendedproducerresponsibility,etc.
7 -4
[continuedonnextpage]94
L.2.TAXREGULATIONSFORINCREASINGSUSTAINABILITYComments(continued)
Most of the respondents agreed that lack of agreement between the countries but also lack of power and leverage ofindividual countries might slow down the action. For this reason, legislation through international organisations would beneeded and this venture would take time. Also necessity for objective requirements, rules and definition might pose adifficulty for legislation. This is why, as the first comment pointed out, there is a need that such a potential tax shall also coverexternal costs but also a need for effective preventive mechanisms for tax avoidance and corruption. An interesting proposalwas also given by one of the respondent regarding tax reliefs for companies sharing their new technologies or tools fosteringdecrease in waste.
Especiallyworthnoting
Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...
! "
thelackofpoliticalwillintheUK,USandtosome
extentevenwithinEuropeaswell.InChinaand
India,thereisagreaterawarenessofthelink
betweenenvironmentalandeconomicprosperity,
butbiggersocialchallenges.inAfricancountries,
therearearangeofshorttermchallengesthat
makebothshortandlongtermplanningmore
difficulttorealise
6 -3
Taxationisimportanttostimulateagentsto
internalizetheirexternalitiesandhencecreate
animpacteconomythatconsidersnotonlythe
financialbottomline,butalsosocialand
environmentalnetimpact.Thisagainrequires
standards,metricsthatareverifiable,
comparableandcredible.Taxationisnotenough
assumingStateinefficiencytoenforce
2 0
TaxesarehardinUS..andofcoursechallengingfor
trade.6 -5
asystemicapproachofcustomerawareness
raising,businesscollaborationandtaxation
couldbeveryeffective- theanalogywiththe
tobaccoindustryisaclearexampleofthis- egin
UK
2 -1
95
M.2.WAGESINTHEFASHIONINDUSTRY- Comments
Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...
! "
Thefashionindustry'swholemotivationfor
offshorecontractmanufacturingistochasecheap
prices.Therearestilllotsofdevelopingeconomies
willingtoworkforalowerwage.
10 0
Asolutionmightbeforlargefashionbrandsto
buddyupwiththeirsupplychainandinvestin
makingchangeonepartneratatimeinsteadof
flipfloppingtocountrieslookingforthe
cheapestfit.Aslongasthechaseforcheap
continues,it'salljustmarketingandgreenwash.
Therewon'tbeanystandard.
8 0
Fairerwageswoulddrivemoreresponsible
productionwithaknock-oneffectontheuseof
resources.
Withfairandlivingwagestherealproblemis
secondaryandtertiarysuppliers,subcontracting
etc.Youmighthaveafactorythatiscompliantbut
whenpressurecomesinfrombrandstodeliver
fast&cheaptheywillengagehomeworkers,
subcontractorsetc
8 0
Areportintowagesintheglobalfashion
industrywaslaunchedbywomen’srights
organisationTheCircle.FashionFocus:the
fundamentalrighttoalivingwageexaminesthe
highlyremunerativeFastFashionsectorthrough
alegallens.Itconcludesthatalivingwageisa
fundamentalhumanright,whichallStatesare
obligedtoguarantee.
7 0
Theproblemisthatthefashionindustryhas
profitedfromoverexploitationofoutsourcedwork
inpoorcountriesandregions.Thatis,itwouldbea
radicaltransformationoftheindustryitself.From
this,theshortestwaytoachievethiswouldbevia
industrydecisionofthetransnationalcompanies
7 0
Theassessmentsarethere.Whatwelackis
enforcementbylocalgovernments.Wewould
havetoputanAccord-likesysteminplacein
everyproductioncountry.
6 -3
whenthefashionindustrykeepsdemanding
highestqualityproductsatthelowestpossible
costs,thiswillalwaysbeattheexpenseof
workers.Also,theregionalcostoflivingisnotthe
standardforallcountrieswithin.Governmentsalso
donotefficientlyenforceandmonitoritsown
laborstandardsbecauseofthepremiumin
attractinginvestments.
7 0
Whilstthisaspirationisambitious-itisvitalthat
weworktowardssuchaimsas,whenachieved,
theycreatedeepchange.Weneedtochampion
ambitiousaims,whilstremainingpragmatic.Ido
thinkthatthereisapositiveknockoneffecton
nature,aswhentheunvaluingmodelisbroken,
companiesmaystarttobettervalueallelements
ofagarment
1 0
Thisrequiresallgovernmentsingarmentmaking
countries,soalmostallcountriesaroundthe
world,tosignuptoafairlivingwage.Atatime
whentheracetothebottominsearchofcheaper
wagesshowslittlesignofabatement,theideathat
allgovernmentswillsetarealisticminimumwage,
letaloneafairlivingwage,seemsinconceivable.
6 -1
Itcouldbeagoodideainordertoincreasegains
ofworkers.Idon'tseeanyimpactin
environmentinthisiniciative.Maybeanegative
impact,ifindustriesdiscountintheenvironment
thecostofthisiniciative.
4 -4
[continuedonnextpage]
96
M.2.WAGESINTHEFASHIONINDUSTRYComments(continued)
The most valued comment in the barriers section regards the difficulty to break the willingness of citizens in developingcountries to work for lower wages. Moreover, lack of transparency and accountability within the governments to monitortheir labor standards is another obstacle for fairer wages to become reality. One of the best solution, according torespondents, regards cooperation between fashion brands and their supply chain to change one partner instead of switchingtowards cheap countries. In addition, law enforcement and oversight from the local governments is needed to ensure that fairand decent living wage is ensured.
Especiallyworthnoting
Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...
! "
companiesproducinginlargescaleforgreater
profitsandadvertisingtoproduce"want",instead
ofproducingaccordingto"needs"ofpeople.The
entirechainwillbeforprofitatthemercyof
workers.
5 0
Selfregulation.Stimulatethatgreatbuyers
disclosuretheirvaluechainandcertifyFairLabor
(byusinglivingwageasminimumstandard).
Startengagingconsumersaboutsuchstandard.
0 0
Whilsttherecouldbeanagreementforglobal
livingwages,livingcostsdifferacrosscountries,so
brandscouldstillendupinaraceforthebottom
goingtothecheapestcountriesandputtingtoo
muchpressureontheirworkforce.
4 -2
I'mnotsurehowthestatementofa"Fairand
decentlivingwageinthefashionindustryisa
worldwidestandard"appliesto"Impacton
restorationofthenaturalenvironment?"
4 -5
97
N.2.WORKER-DRIVENINITIATIVES- Comments
Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...
! "
Thisdependsonorganizedworkersconnectedto
globalnetworksofworkers'unions.Many
countriesdonothavefreedomofassociationand
workersarethreatened.Iagreethisdependsofa
lotofsocialandeconomicaldynamicschangings.
9 0
Designacorporategovernancethatconsiders
stakeholdersinshortandlongtermdecision
makingaswellasthegovernancestructure
includesmembersofcommunityandworkers.
Eg:ImpactCommittee.
8 0
whencodesofconductarevoluntarymechanisms
onthepartofcompanies.Amoreeffective
mechanismiscollectivebargainingagreementwith
workers'unions.
9 0
enablingallworkerstherighttojointrade
unionsisastartingpoint.itispositivetohave
internallyledworkerinitiatives,butforsystemic
changeitisimportantthatunionsareinvolved.
8 0
thismayrequiregovernmentbuyintobetruly
effective,whichisnotcurrentlyapossibilityin
manyregions,particularlycountrieswherefast
fashionispredominantlyproduced.Socialmedia
andtechnologycouldhelpgalvaniseworkers,and
blockchainhasbeentrialledforanonymous
employeefeedbacktoreducefraudulent
responsesbybusiness
7 0
Thisisanintegralpartofimprovingworking
conditionsandpoverty,thoughitlikelywould
haveanegligibleeffectontheenvironment
unlesstheworkershappentolivedownstream
fromthefactory.
8 -1
Alotofsystemicchangehascomefromwithin:
workers’rights,women'srightsetc.Movements
mustbelistened&respondedtoatinternational
levelastheglobaleconomymeansthatthey
cannotbesolvedlocally.Socialmediacanhelp
collectivebargainingandexposingwrongdoing.
Butthisisnotpossibleinallcountriessocannot
assumeequalfooting
6 -3
thelackofawarenessonthepartofmanythat
humanrightscodesdependoncompanybuy-in
andnotbindingascollectivebargaining
agreementsare.
7 -1
Iput)..intimehere.butwhatIwantedtoputis
NAorDonotknow.Itisnotcleartomehow
strongorlargetheunionistobeaforceonthis
one.
6 -3
Asoutlinedinmanycomments- thereisaneed
tocreatechangeonvariouslevels
simultaneously- fromlegislationregarding
collectivebargainingandarangeofsocialand
environmentalprotections,throughto
recognisingthevitalcontributionthatsmall,
locationspecificgroupsofpeoplecanachievein
acommunity.Worker-basedactionisavitalpart
2 0
[continuedonnextpage]
98
N.2.WORKER-DRIVENINITIATIVESComments(continued)
Majority of participants agree that main barriers regard system and legislation. Respondents point out lack of freedom ofassociation and not abiding workers rights, especially in regions where most of the fast fashion is produced. Governmentshave to be involved for the worker driven initiatives to be effective. One of the main solution was to create corporategovernance on both short and long term decision making. Other solutions proposed consist in enabling workers to join tradeunions, which would in consequence foster systemic change. A few participants also outlined an idea to use social media as atool for boosting workers' collective bargaining and leverage.
Especiallyworthnoting
Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...
! "
Thewaveofconservativepopulistgovernment
mayimplementseveralderegulationswhilewe
needtostrengtheninstitutionsandchangethe
rulesofthegametoraisethebarofcompanies
accountabilityandtransparency.
1 0
99
RESULTSMATRIX1:ImpactonrestorationofthenaturalenvironmentvsETM (earliesttimetomainstream)
Concept
Earliestpossibletimeforthis
concepttoreachmainstream
Impactonrestorationof
thenaturalenvironment
A Automationrevolution 9.9 0.8
B CircularEconomy 12.2 2.8
C Clothingasaservice 12.4 2.8
D Consumerlevelsustainabilityindex 9.5 2.1
E Extendedproducerresponsibility 9.7 3.1
F Fibresandprocessinginnovations 8.3 2.9
G Globalawareness 5.0 2.4
H Highconcentration 8.9 2.6
I Highlydetailedsustainabilityreporting 8.6 1.8
J Introducingresale/second-handmodels 9.1 2.6
K Majorityofclothingislocallyproduced 16.2 1.5
L Taxregulationsforincreasingsustainability 9.9 2.6
M Wagesinthefashionindustry 12.4 0.9
N Worker-DrivenInitiatives 8.8 0.4
A cluster of the three following concepts: Worker-driven initiatives, automation revolution and wages in the fashion industry seem to have the leastimpact on the restoration of the natural environment according to the respondents. It might be due to the fact that these innovations are mostly relatedto workforce and labour standards which result in more directly in socioeconomic outputs and indirectly - therefore with less significance - onenvironment. Concepts related to sustainable production and recycling of clothing, aimed at creating net positive impact were valuated to be the mostsignificant for the restoration of the environment such as fibers and processing innovations, extended producers responsibility, circular economy andclothing as a service. Fibers and processing innovations are considered as the most important for the restoration of the environment. It could be due tothe fact that this is the sole concept in the study based on new technologies aimed at efficient production, processing and low-energy and low-waterrecycling of clothing. Eventually, two outliers - G and K - are observable. It seems that global awareness strategy is judged as having a significant impactand relatively short time to be achieved. What is worth noting, in the comment section global awareness was given more solutions than barriers to beachieved. Potential explanation is that mental transformation and environmental education of the society might be ‘easier’ than transformation of thewhole industrial sector, i.e. to produce locally, as it requires not only changes in legislation but also behavioural culture of big companies.
1
2
Especiallyworthnoting
3
100
Concept
Earliestpossibletimeforthis
concepttoreachmainstream
Impactonworkingconditionsand
poverty
A Automationrevolution 9.9 -0.9
B CircularEconomy 12.2 1.6
C Clothingasaservice 12.4 0.7
D Consumerlevelsustainabilityindex 9.5 1.9
E Extendedproducerresponsibility 9.7 1.3
F Fibresandprocessinginnovations 8.3 0.9
G Globalawareness 5.0 2.3
H Highconcentration 8.9 2.3
I Highlydetailedsustainabilityreporting 8.6 1.9
J Introducingresale/second-handmodels 9.1 0.6
K Majorityofclothingislocallyproduced 16.2 0.6
L Taxregulationsforincreasingsustainability 9.9 1.9
M Wagesinthefashionindustry 12.4 3.5
N Worker-DrivenInitiatives 8.8 2.1
1 2
RESULTSMATRIX2:ImpactonworkingconditionsandpovertyvsETM (earliesttimetomainstream)
Especiallyworthnoting
Overall, almost all the concepts have been judged as having positive impact on working conditions and poverty except automation revolution. As seen inthe comments section, respondents fear that automation would result in potential layoffs and in consequence - lack of employment (e.g.due to roboticsubstitutes for human work). On the other hand, wages in the fashion industry were judged as being the most significant for working conditions andpoverty. Fair and decent living wage is valued as a fundamental human and worker’s right and a necessity for sustainable fashion industry by respondents.However, time to achieve this concept is relatively long, as it requires systemic changes in - for majority - developing countries, where fast fashion isbased and usually workers’ rights not abided. Moreover, two clusters are observable, having relatively same impact on the measure and being achievableaccordingly in c. 9 and 12 years. Those are e.g. sustainability reporting, high concentration and sustainability index. Second cluster, including concepts Band C is relatively important - having an average impact on the measure and being achievable in only 12 years. Circular economy and clothing as a servicewere judged more significant for the previous measure than for working conditions. What is interesting is that, as in the case of the restoration of thenatural environment, global awareness - although not having the biggest impact, is seen as the fastest achievable concept. Therefore, participants judgethe potential of raising awareness as an important and rapid tool for cognitive improvements within the society, which might indirectly foster otherconcepts aiming at improving sustainability within the fashion sector.
101
Concept
Earliestpossibletimeforthis
concepttoreachmainstreamAverageimpact
A Automationrevolution 9.9 -0.1
B CircularEconomy 12.2 2.2
C Clothingasaservice 12.4 1.8
D Consumerlevelsustainabilityindex 9.5 2.0
E Extendedproducerresponsibility 9.7 2.2
F Fibresandprocessinginnovations 8.3 1.9
G Globalawareness 5.0 2.3
H Highconcentration 8.9 2.4
I Highlydetailedsustainabilityreporting 8.6 1.8
J Introducingresale/second-handmodels 9.1 1.6
K Majorityofclothingislocallyproduced 16.2 1.1
L Taxregulationsforincreasingsustainability 9.9 2.3
M Wagesinthefashionindustry 12.4 2.2
N Worker-DrivenInitiatives 8.8 1.2
1 2
RESULTSMATRIX3:AverageImpact(onworkingconditionsandpoverty&restorationofthenaturalenvironment)vsETM(earliesttimetomainstream)
In the average impact matrix, the two clusters that emerged are very similar to the ones in the working conditions and poverty. There arealso three outliers - majority of clothing locally produced, automation revolution and global awareness. As in the case of the previousmeasure, automation revolution is judged as having a negative impact, in opposition to the rest of the concepts. It was lowly evaluated inits impact on the environment and highly negatively on working conditions and poverty. Two other outliers - global awareness seen asbeing the fastest achievable idea, and local production of clothing the slowest one are also similar to the two previous graphs.Whatsoever, regarding the ETM, in average, is being equivalent to circa 9 years for the most concentrated cluster in the middle of thechart. Nevertheless, it is worth noting that - as in the case of the first data analysis - in the ETM, standard deviation was relatively high,therefore there is a strong dispersion amongst respondents regarding the achievable time. For this reason, ETM shall be actually treated inperspective. Eventually, clothing as a service, sustainability index and fair wages are organised around the second visible cluster, which isjudged to be achievable in average in around 12 years and having comparatively positive impact.
Especiallyworthnoting
102
RESULTSBREAKDOWNPERPROFESSIONALBACKGROUNDOFTHEEXPERTS
Impactonrestorationofthenaturalenvironmentquestion_name profession AVERAGEof
valueMEDIANofvalue
STDEVofvalue
COUNTAofvalue
Automationrevolution Academic 0.0 0.0 0.82 4
Activist/Campaigner 0.8 1.0 1.26 4
Foundation/Non-Profit 1.0 1.0 1
IndustryJournalist 1.0 1.0 0.00 2
PolicyandGovernance 1.0 1.0 0.00 2
SustainableFashionStart-up 1.3 1.5 0.82 6
CircularEconomy Academic 2.8 3.0 1.50 4
Activist/Campaigner 2.8 3.0 0.50 4
Foundation/Non-Profit 3.0 3.0 1
IndustryJournalist 2.5 2.5 0.71 2
PolicyandGovernance 3.0 3.0 1
SustainableFashionStart-up 2.8 2.5 0.98 6
Clothingasaservice Academic 2.5 2.5 0.58 4
Activist/Campaigner 3.0 3.0 0.82 4
Foundation/Non-Profit 4.0 4.0 1
IndustryJournalist 2.5 2.5 0.71 2
PolicyandGovernance 3.0 3.0 0.00 2
SustainableFashionStart-up 2.8 3.0 0.75 6
Consumerlevelsustainabilityindex Academic 2.0 2.0 0.82 4
Activist/Campaigner 2.3 2.0 0.50 4
Foundation/Non-Profit 2.0 2.0 1
IndustryJournalist 0.5 0.5 2.12 2
PolicyandGovernance 3.0 3.0 1.41 2
SustainableFashionStart-up 2.3 2.0 1.51 6
Extendedproducerresponsibility Academic 3.0 3.0 0.00 4
Activist/Campaigner 3.0 3.0 0.00 4
Foundation/Non-Profit 4.0 4.0 1
IndustryJournalist 3.0 3.0 0.00 2
PolicyandGovernance 3.0 3.0 0.00 2
SustainableFashionStart-up 3.0 3.0 0.89 6
Fibresandprocessinginnovations Academic 3.0 3.0 0.82 4
Activist/Campaigner 2.5 3.0 1.00 4
Foundation/Non-Profit 3.0 3.0 1
IndustryJournalist 2.5 2.5 0.71 2
PolicyandGovernance 3.0 3.0 1
SustainableFashionStart-up 3.3 3.0 0.52 6
Globalawareness Academic 2.5 2.5 1.29 4
Activist/Campaigner 2.5 2.5 0.58 4
Foundation/Non-Profit 3.0 3.0 1
IndustryJournalist 0.5 0.5 2.12 2
PolicyandGovernance 1.0 1.0 1
SustainableFashionStart-up 3.0 3.0 0.89 6103
RESULTSBREAKDOWNPERPROFESSIONALBACKGROUNDOFTHEEXPERTS
Impactonrestorationofthenaturalenvironment(cont.)
question_name profession AVERAGEofvalue
MEDIANofvalue
STDEVofvalue
COUNTAofvalue
Highconcentration Academic 3.0 3.0 1.15 4
Activist/Campaigner 2.8 3.0 0.50 4
Foundation/Non-Profit 3.0 3.0 1
IndustryJournalist 0.5 0.5 2.12 2
PolicyandGovernance 2.0 2.0 1
SustainableFashionStart-up 2.8 3.0 0.75 6
Highlydetailedsustainabilityreporting Academic 1.8 1.5 0.96 4
Activist/Campaigner 1.8 2.0 0.50 4
Foundation/Non-Profit 3.0 3.0 1
IndustryJournalist 1.5 1.5 0.71 2
PolicyandGovernance -1.0 -1.0 1.41 2
SustainableFashionStart-up 2.7 2.5 1.21 6
Introducingresale/second-handmodels Academic 3.0 3.0 0.00 4
Activist/Campaigner 2.5 2.5 0.58 4
Foundation/Non-Profit 3.0 3.0 1
IndustryJournalist 2.5 2.5 0.71 2
PolicyandGovernance 2.0 2.0 1
SustainableFashionStart-up 2.3 3.0 1.21 6
Majorityofclothingislocallyproduced Academic 1.5 1.5 0.58 4
Activist/Campaigner 1.5 1.5 0.58 4
Foundation/Non-Profit 1.0 1.0 1
IndustryJournalist 0.5 0.5 0.71 2
PolicyandGovernance 3.5 3.5 0.71 2
SustainableFashionStart-up 1.2 1.0 0.75 6
Taxregulationsforincreasingsustainability
Academic 2.5 2.5 0.58 4
Activist/Campaigner 1.8 2.0 0.50 4
Foundation/Non-Profit 3.0 3.0 1
IndustryJournalist 2.5 2.5 0.71 2
PolicyandGovernance 3.0 3.0 1
SustainableFashionStart-up 3.2 3.0 0.75 6
Wagesinthefashionindustry Academic 0.8 1.0 0.50 4
Activist/Campaigner 0.8 1.0 0.50 4
Foundation/Non-Profit 1.0 1.0 1
IndustryJournalist 1.0 1.0 0.00 2
PolicyandGovernance 1.0 1.0 0.00 2
SustainableFashionStart-up 1.2 1.0 1.64 5
Worker-DrivenInitiatives Academic 0.8 1.0 0.50 4
Activist/Campaigner 0.2 1.0 1.30 5
Foundation/Non-Profit 1.0 1.0 1
IndustryJournalist 0.5 0.5 0.71 2
PolicyandGovernance 1.0 1.0 1
SustainableFashionStart-up 0.0 0.0 0.71 5104
RESULTSBREAKDOWNPERPROFESSIONALBACKGROUNDOFTHEEXPERTS
Impactonworkingconditionsandpoverty
question_name professionAVERAGEofvalue
MEDIANofvalue
STDEVofvalue
COUNTAofvalue
Automationrevolution Academic -0.5 -0.50 0.58 4
Activist/Campaigner -1.0 -1.00 1.63 4
Foundation/Non-Profit -1.0 -1.00 1
IndustryJournalist -0.5 -0.50 0.71 2
PolicyandGovernance -1.0 -1.00 0.00 2
SustainableFashionStart-up -1.3 -1.50 0.82 6
CircularEconomy Academic 1.3 1.00 1.50 4
Activist/Campaigner 1.5 1.00 1.00 4
Foundation/Non-Profit 3.0 3.00 1
IndustryJournalist 1.5 1.50 0.71 2
PolicyandGovernance 1.0 1.00 1
SustainableFashionStart-up 1.8 1.50 1.47 6
Clothingasaservice Academic 0.5 0.50 0.58 4
Activist/Campaigner 1.0 0.50 1.41 4
Foundation/Non-Profit -1.0 -1.00 1
IndustryJournalist 1.0 1.00 0.00 2
PolicyandGovernance 0.5 0.50 0.71 2
SustainableFashionStart-up 0.8 1.00 1.17 6
Consumerlevelsustainabilityindex Academic 1.5 1.00 1.00 4
Activist/Campaigner 1.2 1.00 1.48 5
Foundation/Non-Profit 2.0 2.00 1
IndustryJournalist 1.0 1.00 1.41 2
PolicyandGovernance 3.0 3.00 1.41 2
SustainableFashionStart-up 2.5 2.50 1.52 6
Extendedproducerresponsibility Academic 1.3 1.50 0.96 4
Activist/Campaigner 0.5 0.50 0.58 4
Foundation/Non-Profit 1.0 1.00 1
IndustryJournalist 1.5 1.50 0.71 2
PolicyandGovernance 0.5 0.50 0.71 2
SustainableFashionStart-up 2.2 2.00 1.60 6
Fibresandprocessinginnovations Academic 0.8 0.50 0.96 4
Activist/Campaigner 0.5 0.50 0.58 4
Foundation/Non-Profit 1.0 1.00 1
IndustryJournalist 1.0 1.00 0.00 2
PolicyandGovernance -1.0 -1.00 1
SustainableFashionStart-up 1.6 2.00 1.67 5
Globalawareness Academic 2.5 3.00 1.00 4
Activist/Campaigner 1.8 2.00 0.50 4
Foundation/Non-Profit 2.0 2.00 1
IndustryJournalist 1.5 1.50 0.71 2
PolicyandGovernance 2.0 2.00 1
SustainableFashionStart-up 2.8 2.50 0.98 6105
RESULTSBREAKDOWNPERPROFESSIONALBACKGROUNDOFTHEEXPERTS
Impactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(cont.)
question_name professionAVERAGEofvalue
MEDIANofvalue
STDEVofvalue
COUNTAofvalue
Highconcentration Academic 2.8 2.50 0.96 4
Activist/Campaigner 2.0 2.00 0.82 4
Foundation/Non-Profit 3.0 3.00 1
IndustryJournalist 0.5 0.50 2.12 2
PolicyandGovernance 2.0 2.00 1
SustainableFashionStart-up 2.7 2.50 0.82 6
Highlydetailedsustainabilityreporting Academic 1.8 2.00 0.50 4
Activist/Campaigner 1.0 1.00 1.22 5
Foundation/Non-Profit 3.0 3.00 1
IndustryJournalist 2.0 2.00 1.41 2
PolicyandGovernance 0.0 0.00 2.83 2
SustainableFashionStart-up 3.0 3.00 1.10 6
Introducingresale/second-handmodels Academic 0.3 0.50 0.96 4
Activist/Campaigner 0.5 1.00 1.00 4
Foundation/Non-Profit 1.0 1.00 1
IndustryJournalist 0.5 0.50 0.71 2
PolicyandGovernance 1.0 1.00 1
SustainableFashionStart-up 0.8 1.00 1.33 6
Majorityofclothingislocallyproduced Academic 0.8 0.50 0.96 4
Activist/Campaigner 1.3 1.00 0.50 4
Foundation/Non-Profit -1.0 -1.00 1
IndustryJournalist -0.5 -0.50 0.71 2
PolicyandGovernance 0.5 0.50 2.12 2
SustainableFashionStart-up 0.8 1.50 2.48 6
Taxregulationsforincreasingsustainability
Academic 1.5 1.50 0.58 4
Activist/Campaigner 1.3 1.50 0.96 4
Foundation/Non-Profit 1.0 1.00 1
IndustryJournalist 2.0 2.00 1.41 2
PolicyandGovernance 2.0 2.00 1
SustainableFashionStart-up 2.7 2.50 1.21 6
Wagesinthefashionindustry Academic 3.5 3.50 0.58 4
Activist/Campaigner 3.5 3.50 0.58 4
Foundation/Non-Profit 4.0 4.00 1
IndustryJournalist 3.5 3.50 0.71 2
PolicyandGovernance 4.0 4.00 0.00 2
SustainableFashionStart-up 3.3 4.00 1.63 6
Worker-DrivenInitiatives Academic 2.3 2.50 0.96 4
Activist/Campaigner 2.0 3.00 1.41 5
Foundation/Non-Profit 4.0 4.00 1
IndustryJournalist 1.5 1.50 0.71 2
PolicyandGovernance 2.0 2.00 1
SustainableFashionStart-up 1.8 2.00 1.47 6106
RESULTSBREAKDOWNPERPROFESSIONALBACKGROUNDOFTHEEXPERTS
ETM- earliestpossibletimeforthisconcepttoreachmainstreaminyears
question_name professionAVERAGEofvalue
MEDIANofvalue
STDEVofvalue
COUNTAofvalue
Automationrevolution Academic 8.3 10.00 3.50 4
Activist/Campaigner 12.3 10.50 5.44 4
Foundation/Non-Profit 12.0 12.00 1
IndustryJournalist 10.0 10.0 0.00 2
PolicyandGovernance 11.5 11.5 4.95 2
SustainableFashionStart-up 8.7 10.0 4.97 6
CircularEconomy Academic 13.5 12.0 4.73 4
Activist/Campaigner 14.0 12.5 8.21 4
Foundation/Non-Profit 18.0 18.0 1
IndustryJournalist 12.5 12.5 3.54 2
PolicyandGovernance 15.0 15.0 1
SustainableFashionStart-up 8.7 10.0 2.16 6
Clothingasaservice Academic 9.3 10.0 5.38 4
Activist/Campaigner 13.3 12.5 5.38 4
Foundation/Non-Profit 20.0 20.0 1
IndustryJournalist 16.5 16.5 12.02 2
PolicyandGovernance 16.5 16.5 12.02 2
SustainableFashionStart-up 9.8 8.5 4.31 6
Consumerlevelsustainabilityindex Academic 8.3 5.5 8.02 4
Activist/Campaigner 13.0 10.0 6.71 5
Foundation/Non-Profit 10.0 10.0 1
IndustryJournalist 6.5 6.5 4.95 2
PolicyandGovernance 9.0 9.0 1.41 2
SustainableFashionStart-up 8.3 7.5 4.08 6
Extendedproducerresponsibility Academic 9.0 8.5 4.69 4
Activist/Campaigner 12.5 9.5 8.50 4
Foundation/Non-Profit 7.0 7.0 1
IndustryJournalist 10.0 10.0 0.00 2
PolicyandGovernance 13.5 13.5 2.12 2
SustainableFashionStart-up 7.3 9.5 4.08 6
Fibresandprocessinginnovations Academic 8.0 9.0 4.32 4
Activist/Campaigner 8.3 8.0 1.26 4
Foundation/Non-Profit 8.0 8.0 1
IndustryJournalist 8.5 8.5 2.12 2
PolicyandGovernance 7.0 7.0 1
SustainableFashionStart-up 8.7 8.5 5.89 6
Globalawareness Academic 4.3 4.0 1.50 4
Activist/Campaigner 7.3 6.0 3.30 4
Foundation/Non-Profit 5.0 5.0 1
IndustryJournalist 6.5 6.5 0.71 2
PolicyandGovernance 6.0 6.0 1
SustainableFashionStart-up 3.3 4.0 2.07 6107
RESULTSBREAKDOWNPERPROFESSIONALBACKGROUNDOFTHEEXPERTS
ETM- earliestpossibletimeforthisconcepttoreachmainstreaminyears
question_name professionAVERAGEofvalue
MEDIANofvalue
STDEVofvalue
COUNTAofvalue
Highconcentration Academic 7.0 6.5 2.16 4
Activist/Campaigner 13.8 14.0 7.23 4
Foundation/Non-Profit 11.0 11.0 1
IndustryJournalist 12.5 12.5 3.54 2
PolicyandGovernance 5.0 5.0 1
SustainableFashionStart-up 6.0 6.0 3.85 6
Highlydetailedsustainabilityreporting Academic 7.3 7.0 2.06 4
Activist/Campaigner 11.6 10.0 5.50 5
Foundation/Non-Profit 8.0 8.0 1
IndustryJournalist 7.5 7.5 0.71 2
PolicyandGovernance 6.5 6.5 2.12 2
SustainableFashionStart-up 8.0 7.5 1.67 6
Introducingresale/second-handmodels Academic 9.3 10.0 5.62 4
Activist/Campaigner 13.8 12.5 4.79 4
Foundation/Non-Profit 11.0 11.0 1
IndustryJournalist 6.5 6.5 2.12 2
PolicyandGovernance 5.0 5.0 1
SustainableFashionStart-up 7.0 8.5 4.00 6
Majorityofclothingislocallyproduced Academic 13.3 15.0 3.50 4
Activist/Campaigner 17.5 17.5 6.45 4
Foundation/Non-Profit 20.0 20.0 1
IndustryJournalist 17.5 17.5 3.54 2
PolicyandGovernance 12.5 12.5 3.54 2
SustainableFashionStart-up 17.5 17.5 5.24 6
Taxregulationsforincreasingsustainability
Academic 8.5 7.0 4.51 4
Activist/Campaigner 12.8 10.0 8.54 4
Foundation/Non-Profit 4.0 4.0 1
IndustryJournalist 9.0 9.0 1.41 2
PolicyandGovernance 10.0 10.0 1
SustainableFashionStart-up 10.3 7.5 7.37 6
Wagesinthefashionindustry Academic 10.3 11.5 3.77 4
Activist/Campaigner 16.3 15.0 6.29 4
Foundation/Non-Profit 25.0 25.0 1
IndustryJournalist 11.5 11.5 2.12 2
PolicyandGovernance 13.5 13.5 2.12 2
SustainableFashionStart-up 9.0 10.0 4.90 6
Worker-DrivenInitiatives Academic 6.3 7.5 4.50 4
Activist/Campaigner 13.2 10.0 7.19 5
Foundation/Non-Profit 10.0 10.0 1
IndustryJournalist 10.0 10.0 0.00 2
PolicyandGovernance 10.0 10.0 1
SustainableFashionStart-up 6.2 6.0 3.76 6108