Vot. I.

THE

H I M A L A Y A N J O U R N A L

RECORDS OF THE HIMALAYAN CLUB

EDITED BY

KENNETH MASON

CONTENTS. Page. I. THE FOUND IN^ OF THE HIMALAYAN CLUB, BySir

Geoffrey Corbett - . . . . . . . . 11. THE SHYOK PAM IN 1928. By F. Ludlow . ) . .

111, INDUS FLOODS AND SHYOK GLACIERS. By Major Kenneth Maaon . . . . . . . . . . .

IV. SOME ASPECTS OF BIRD-LIFE IN KASHMIR. By Hugh Whistler . . . . . . . . . .

V. BOTANICAL EXPLORATION IN THE MISHMI HILLS. By F. Kingdon Ward . . . . . . . .

VI. THE ATTRACTION OF THE HIMALAYA. By Dr. J. de Graaff Hunter . . . . ... . . . .

VII. THE URTA SARYK VALLEY. By Lieut.-Colonel Reginald Schomberg . . . . . . . . . .

VIII. THE WAY TO THE BASPA. By Major D. C. P. M. Shewen . 1X. TWO EASY PASSES IN KANAWAR. By R. Maclagan Corrie.. X. A JOURNEY THROUGH SPIT1 AND RUPSHU. By Mrc. K.C.

Lethbridge . . . . . . . . . . XI. TRAILL'S PASS, 1925. By Hugh Ruttledge . . . .

XII. THE WORD HIMALAYA. By Sir Geoffrey Corbett . . . XIII. HIMALAYAN EXPEDITIONS . . . . . . XIV. IN MEMORIAM . . . . . . . . XV. HIMALAYAN NOTES . , . . . . . .

XVI, REVIEWS . . . . . . . . . . XVII. CORRESPONDENCE . . . . .. . .

XVIII. CLUB PROCEEDINGS . . . . , . . . XIX. CLUB NOTICES . . . . . . . . XX. LIBRARY NOTICES J. . . . . .

THACKER, SPINK & CO., P. 0. Box 54, CALCUTTA LONDOPI : W. T ~ K E R & CO., 2, Creed Lane, Ludgate Hill, E. C. 4.

-- -. --

Price, F i v e Rupees or E ight Shillings.

T H E

H I M A L A Y A N J O U R N A L

- VOLUME 11, 1930

EDITED BY

KENNETH MASON

CALCUTTA & SlMLA

THACKER, SPINK & CO.

CONTENTS. Page

EX~LORATION AND CLIMBINQ IN THE SIKKIM HIMALAYA. Lt.-Colonel H. W. Tobin . . . . . . . . .. 1

THE GERMAN ATTAOK ON KANQOHENJUNGA, 1929. Paul Bauer . . 13 T ~ E GEM-STONES OF THE HIMALAYA. Dr. A. M. Heron -. . . 21 BIRD NOTES OF A JOURNEY TO GYANTSE. L. R. F~WCUS . . . . 29 THE SHYOK FLOOD, 1929. J. P. Gunn, H. J. Todd, Major Kenneth Mason 36

THE I ~ A O A N VALLEY. Lieut. J. B. P. Angwin . . . . . . 4 8 SONAMARO AS A CLIMBING CENTRE. Dr. E. F. Neve . . . . 61 ISTOR-0-NAL AND SOME CHITRALI SUPERSTITIONS. Lient. D. M. Burn . . 68

IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF THE GERARDS. W. E. Buchanan . . . . 73 ROUND THE I~ANAWAR KAILAS. H. M. Glover . . . . . . 81 THE MAZENO PASS. Captain J. Barron . . . . . . 87 NINE DAYS' SPORT ON THE PAMLRS. Captain A. A. Russell . . 90 THE MUZ-ART PASS IN THE CENTRAL TIEN-SHAN. Lt.-Colonel Reginald

Schomberg . . . . . . . . . . 99 EXPEDITIONS.-A Visit t o Western Tibet, 1929. Samlakar and the Bodpo

La, 1929. Lt.-Colonel Schomberg's Journeys in the Tien Shan and Altai, 1927-29. The Italian Expedition t o the Karakoram, 1929. The Netherlands Karakoram Expedition, 1929-30. The Chong- Icumdan Dam, 1929. A Shooting Expedition in Lahul, 1929. Simla to Leh, 1929. A Little-known Route in Sikkim. Tho Roosevelt's Expedition to Szechuan, 1929. Kingdon Ward's Journey from Burma to Annam. The Russo-German Alai-Pamir Expedition, 1928. The Tragedy on Icangchenjunga, 1929 . . . . . . 101

IN ~ E ~ o R ~ ~ ~ . - C o l o n e l Sir Thomas Hungerford Holdich, H. H. Sir Chandra Shamsher Jang Bahadur Rana . . . . . . 122

NOTES.-Calcutta and Darjeeling Notes. The Royal Geographical Society Awards. The Spelling of " Kinchinjunga." The height of Kangchen- jnnga. The Name " Makalu." To Gilgit by Air. Peak Kaufmann. The Eight Longest Glaciers in Asia. The Shingshal Glaciers. The Way to the Baspa. The Survey of the Baspa Valley. The Bombay Natural History Society. Ski in the Himalaya . . . . 129

REVIEWS.-Innermost Asia (Sir Aurel Stein). On Alexander's Track t o the Indus (Sir Aurel Stein). Travels in Tartary Thibet and China (Huc and Gabet). The People of Tibet (Sir C. A. Bell). The Land of the Lama (David MacDonald). We Tibetans (Rinchen Lhamo). Buried Treasures of Chinese Turkestan (Albert von Le Coq). China to Chelsea (Captain Duncan R.IcCallum). Four Months' Camping in the Himalayas (Dr. W. G. N. Van der Sleen). Trailing the Giant Panda (Tlleodore Roosevelt and Kermit Roosevelt). Big Game Shooting in the Indian Empire (C. H. Stockley). Stcrndale's Mam- malia of India (Frank Finn). Dainra' (" Ganpat ") . . . . 143

CORRESPONDENCE.-" The Wrong Shape ". Gilgit and Hunza River Floods. Secular Movements of Himalayan Glaciers. Pre-Ghal in TT'aziristtln. The German attack on Kangchenjunga . . .. 172

CLUB P R o c ~ ~ ~ 1 ~ c s . - A n n u a l General Mceting. Calcutta Local Dinners 182 CIJJB No~1~Es.-Appointments. Photographic Exhibition. Applications

to visit Gyantse. Eastern Section Notes. The Mountain Club of South Africa. " Tlie Alpine Journal." " The Himalayan Journal," 1931. Presentntion of Books to the Library . . . . . . 191

LIBRARY NOTIOES.-Books added to the Library . . .. 197

7 ' h ~ i l l~~atrnt ima in this .lo~crnul haar hrett reproduced at the Surv~!! oJ India Ofice*, Calcutta

THE

H I M A L A Y A N I J O U R N A L

RECORDS OF THE HIMALAYAN CLUB I

I EDITED BY I KENNETH MASON I

CONTENTS. I. THE PASSING OF MURIMERY. By Brig.-General the Hon.

C. C. Bruce ...

Ill. A SKETCH OF THE GEOLOGY OF INDIA. By Sir Edwin Paacoe ...

V. NOTES ON THE WESTERNMOST PLATEAUX OF

V11. SKI-1NG IN KASHMIR. By M. D. N. Wya\l ... V111. A FRONTIER TOUR. By Lieu1.-Colonel J. R. C. Cannon . . 63

I X . THE INTERNATIONAL HIMALAYAN EXPEDITION, 1930.

XI. THE DHARMSALA DHAULADHAR IN 1930. By Lieut. P. R. Oliver .

X11. EXPEDITIONS ... XIII. IN MEMORIAM. Che~tan. Caplain F. Aahcrolt. C . E.R, Cooper,

Lieul. I. M. Cadell XIV. NOTES XV. REVIEWS

XVL CORRESPONDENCE XVII. PROCEEDINGS AND NOTICES

XVIII. LIBRARY NOTICES

THACKER, SPINK 81 CO., P. 0. Box 54, CALCUTTA LONDON : W. THACKER & CO., 2, Creed L n e , 12udgmte HJI, E. C. 4.

VOL. IV APRIL, 1932 THE

H I M A L A Y A N J O U R N A L

RECORDS OF THE HIMALAYAN CLUB EDlTED BY

KENNETH MASON

CONTENTS Page. 1. ON ANCIENT TRACKS PAST THE PAM~RS. By Sir Aurel

Stein . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

11. THE FIRST ASCENT OF KAMET. By Captain E. SI. J. Birnie 27 111. AN EXPLORATION OF THE ARWA VALLEY, BRITISH

GARHWAL. By Captain E. St. J. Birnie . . . . 35 1V. MY EXPEDlTION IN THE EASTERN KARAKORAM, 1930.

By Profemor Giotto Dainelli . . . . . . 46 V. SKI-INC IN THE HIGH EASTERN HIMALAYA. By Ulrich

Wieland . . . . . . . . . . 55 VI. BY SHONTHAR CALI TO RAMA, ASTOR. By Captain

J. Barron . . . . . . . . . . 59 V11. THE SHYOK ICE-BARRIER IN 1931. By Captain C. E. C.

Creaory . . . . . . . . . . 67 V111. A FRONTIER TOUR. By Lieut.-Colonel J. R. C. Cannon . . 75

IX. HIGH ALTITUDE AND OXYGEN. By N. E. Odell - - 9 1 X. SUB-HIMALAYAN DIETETICS. By Dr. C. Strickland . . 96

XI. THE TSARAP VALLEY, EASTERN LAHUL. By Lieu1.- Colonel C. H, Stockley . . . . . . .. 101

XlI. PEAKS AND PASSES OF THE T'IEN SHAN. By Lkut.- Colonel R. C. F. Schomberg . . . . . . .. 112

XIII. THE FIGHT FOR KANCCHENJUNCA. 1931. By Paul Bauer . . . . . . . . . . .. 116

XIV. LHONAK, 1930. By G. B. Gourlay . . . . .. 123 XV. A JOURNEY IN UPPER KUMAUN AND CARHWAL. BY

Lieutenant Hugh Rote . . . . . . .. 135 XVI. EXPEDITIONS .. . . . . . . .. 141 XVII. IN MEMORIAM. General Sir Alexander Stanhope Cobbe, V.C.

Lieut.-Colonel Henry Treire Monhead. Dr. Emil Trinkler . . 155 XVIII. NOTES , . . . . . . . .. 165 XIX. REVIEWS . , . . . . . . . 185 XX- CORRESPONDENCE. The Word @' Kangchenjunga " .. 19R

XXI- PROCEEDINGS AND NOTICES . . . . .. 215 XXII. LIBRARY NOTICES . . . . . . . . 225

CALCUTTA THACKER'S PRESS & DIRECTORlES, LTD.

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v g ~ , '~HRQUGH KWLU-SARAJ. BJ R. -OM

%&. A PROPHET OF OW. BJ u ~ r m 0: c w . X; AN ANATTEMPT ON MOMIOMO. B' o. A. a. me .

KENlqgTHMAmr4 . XII- EXPEDITIONS .

XIII, IN MEMORIAM. mwx mmi~, ~ A W , urcuy m. ~ . n * ~ A n a ~ ~ J U r p O ,

XW. NOTES ,

xv. REEVIWYS

CORR&%mNDENcB. A P ' h h ?-ow!* Sui- llbPrliar . I@

XvIZ. -ma m Nmm ,

CUNTEAf TS

. -Enas HI. m m WERST"S WEATHER IN x933. BJ L L WMZR . n w+ m . z % Q w By L. %* WAGER 9

v. &.MOUNT EVERESI' PLIGHT$. 4 L. v. rnmwa~ az*nxea 54

XI.t A SPRING TRIP FROM S R I N A W TO SIMLA. Bj A. P. F. H M a a M .

XIVm ME&IOBIAM : H,M. KIN0 Al.BERT OF THE BELOW ; W a M * TftB OF THE mvexr ; ~s#rur FAIRBANKS- M O ~ A C N ~ R ; H B ~ HDTZ . 146

mam ~ORRESPONDENCE . - mIr. ~OCBBDINQS m m ~ m s . jC U-Y N-g .

-' Volume VIII THE

H I M A L A Y A N I J O U R N A L

RECORDS OF THE HIMALAYAN CLUB Edibd by KENNETH MASON

, ', .

RECORDS OF THE HIMALAYAN- bbB JWed by KENNETH MASON

- , '

CONTENTS

Q.VB-

, vr. THE AKXNT OP 'SINIO~CHU AND s i w NORTH; PWC & n a . l ~ ~ l l b i Y I l W .

VII. SURVEY WORR IN THB NA&A D& REOXON. '4 mm - . m 1 .

~V.EmEmmOm . xv. lN ~~ ,

Volume X T% E

1938

H I M A L A Y A N J O U R N A L l

RECORDS OF THE HIMALAYAN CLUB t

Edited by KENNETH MASON

C O N T E N T S PAaB

I. THE SOURCES OF THE SUBANSIRI AND THE SIYOM. By I

P. LUDMW

11. THE SHAKSGAM EXPEDITION, I 937. By MYWL W ~ r n e R . 21

I I ~ . RESUMR OF GEOLOGICAL RESULTS, SHAKSGAM EXPEDI- TION, 1937. J. B. AUDBN . @

IV. A WlNTER VISIT TO THE ZEMU GLACIER. By JOHN HUNT

A K D C. R, COOKE , - 49 V. THE ASCENT OF NANDA KOT, 1936. Bg Y . norr~ . 71

VI. ACROSS THE GANGOTRI-ALAKNANDA WATERSHED. By J. A. K. MARTYN . 79

VII. U R A K O U M NOMENCLATURE. By KENNETH MASON . 86 VIII. THE ASCENT OF CHOMOLHARI. By F. smlrcen CHAPMAN . 126

IX. N m G A PARBAT, 1937. By PAUL BAUER . 145 X. THE U S H M I R ALPS, 1937. By JMW WALLER . . 159 XI. SOME SCRAMBLES ON THE DHAULA D M . By J. o. M. ROBERT^ 164 XI]. THE FUTURE OF CLIMBING IN TIBET. By F. SPENCER CHAPMAN I 71

XII1. SURVEYS AND VARIOUS EXPEDITIONS . * 177 XIV. IN MEMORIAM : o. L. cornam, KARL WEN, HANS HARTMAW, THE

NANOA PARBAT PORTERS, 1937 . I% XV. NOTES . I93

XVI. REVIEWS . I99 XVII. CLUB PROCEEDINGS . 210

XVIlI. CLUB NOTICES . 225

r

O X F O R D AT T H E C L A R E N D O N P R E S S

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. X X . O L ~ ~ P R O C B E D & ~ .: a, 4.,.34 .-y

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C L A R E N D O N P R E S S -

- .

H I M A L A Y v a A N J O U ' R N A L '

.- "nRECORDS OF THE HIMALAYAN CLUB

Edited & C. W. F. NOYCE

Uited by H. W. TOBIN

CONTENTS

ON NANDA KOT, rgm. By EE.

MU~TAGH ATA. Bg H. w. nurur ,

HIMALAYAM REMINISCENCES. By a. o*aosw .

H I M A L A Y A N '

i RECORDS OF THE HIMALAYAN CLUB Edited by H. W. TOBIN

PAOE I. EDITORIAL 7 If. M A U R P N A . By MAURlCE HERZOG . * 9

111. SWISS H I W Y A EXPEDITION, 1949 : NORTH-EAST NEPAL, B y m d n r r r e ~ ~ . 25

IV. SCOTTISH KUMAON EXPEDITION, 1950. By w, H. MURRAY . 38 V. NORWEGIAN EXPEDITION TO TIRICH MIR, 1950. By EI. R, A.

STREATI-IER 59 VI. THE KHANGKYONG PLATEAU AND KANGCHENJAU.

By T. H, BRAHAM . 74 VII. HOOKER'S EARLY TRAVELS IN NEPAL AND SIKKIM. B> P. F,

PEIRO~SON . . 86 VIII. EXPEDITIONS: THE EAST MUSTAGH PASS, and THE TSOMOICARI TO

DEMCHOK, by R. C. F. SCK-IOMBERO ; SXKKIM TREK, by GEORGE WALLER ; SWLA TO MURAL KANDI, WlTH SOME BIRD NOTES, by L. R. PHILLIPS AND J. H. BISHOP; BIRDS SEEN IN LAHUL, by H. G. ALEXANDER; THE KOLAHOI GROUP, AN RrsToRXCAL SKETCH, by F W C I S LEESON; ANOTHER ROUTE ON KOZAHOI, @ PETER WORMALD; NOTE ON A RECENT TRIP IN NORTH SIKBtM, By L. KRENEK . g6

IX, ROLL OF DARJEELING PORTERS, By L. KRENEK . 121

X. NOTES: NANGA PARBAT, DEaMBER ISSO; MEMORIES OF A HMALAYAM PEAK , I34

XI. REVIEWS: THIS MY VOYAGE (TOM LONOSTAFP) ; BEROB DER WELT (PUB- LTSHED BY THE SC?WBlZBRISCWE STPKJMO P i j ~ ALPINE WIISC~~~~NOEW); 8 C H O W MDUNTAWBW (W~LFIUI) PSOYCE); CLIMBER'S TESTA?&NT ( ~ T W I~ICHARDS) ; THB B V O S R M N (HUGH WCIC). I37

N m s NEWS: rn AUSTRUN ALPME CLUB m AUSTRIA. THE a m ALPXNE CLUB. THE S E U A PHOTOORAPHIC LIBRARY AT BIELW . 143

MEMORIAM: WlttrAw WALTBR MURRAY ITEA'ITS, C.S.I., C.I.E.; ~ R ~ E V B L Y N ~ ~ O ~ O N , C . I . E . ; W . H . C R A ~ ; J . W . T H O R N ~ Y I*

=It CLUB FRQCFiEDINGs . 148

O X F O R D H E -* C L A R E N D O N P R E S S

THE

H I M A L A Y A N

CONTENTS . 1, EDITORIAL

11. TOWARDS EVEREST, 1950. Bj CIWRLW ~ ~ r r o l l l . . Q

IIf. RECONNAISSANCE OF MOUNT EVEREST, I g51. By w. H. u-y 4 19

'V 'NEW ZEALAND EXPEDITION TO GARHWAL. B$ H. a ~mmono, w. o4 LOW, and r. m. rxrrraR -. . 42

V, THE FRENCH ON NANDA DEVI. Club Alpin Fraqair . . 6 o

VI. TO THE GOSAINKUND, Bj ~ L L S ELLA mmua~ . VII, 8HIWAKTE, QUNGUR, AND C W R A G I L , . By mu adnu& -INS 73

VIlb GAMIN, IMO. By wwmm q n t - 8 0

1% PANCH CHULI AND THE DARMAGANGA. By luawmnr IrraLWN. - $7 Xm EXRAKQRAM EXPEDITION, rwj. BY mws OYR . . IOF

TRISUL, 1% I. By ROY GREBWOOD . rra KUSH, 1998. 33% a. a. FINCH . . I ~ S

lZBO TIBBA. BJ n. EI. ev~nr, s. a, md tke kte CAW. t. c. .WD . rrB

m- W S IN KULU. Bjr H. *. -on . . I P ~

xv. muNT MREST. It8 ~ r m e and Hdght. BJ B. L, ~ u L A ~ < . . 131

b m b -XTIOPYS: The ~ a a e r . . ~ e * . 149

Wi@=ctAPur~Irad,byHu Ri&--T&kuiv;M-;.io 'R C F. b s p A titls.inam S& ~ . m , by #, M. bib; ~ h c ~ e l t - ~ L c l t , * b ~

~illi&; lmtematimd Hlmrlayan Gathcrlf~g; Tbe Shtrplr 0fE-t a 4 4

, JU U K e N A-L

I CONTENTS

THE

HIMALAYAN I I J O U R N A L

RECORDS OF THE HIMALAYAN CLUB E d M by T. H. BRAHAM

Assdsred & G. C, BAND

CONTENTS

J O U R N A L RECORDS OF THE HIMALAYAN CLUB I I

W & d T, EL B M A M Asn'fd BJI J. A, JACKSON

F -

WIL Tm ASCBMT o~ C&wom~, By Prof. Taka Kuwahra

1 XI. D l o ~ u m I ~ . ~ R . G 1 ~ ~ .. . 102 . 108

UPUPM-m. By D. IGemp .. 127 X N . ~ - ~ ~ N , By F. SOM . . • 122 XV. Bsims~ CAUCAW h m m m , 1958. BY Ralph J ones .. 126

Xvi. Ncms AND Emmmma: Tbs Asent of Gasherbrum IV, By F. MmM. A Nate on the Austrian mth, 19%. By F. Moravcc. A Tmk in LahUt. By Q.J- .. . . . . . . . rn ,, 134

m. IN hlmumw: F. Khgdon-Wd M$im N. D. ' fwd. W. B, WmdI . . 4 . . 041

,'m. klylg@B 1 1 . I . 1s

H I M A L A Y A N

C O N T E N T S

1.

11.

111.

1v.

v.

VI.

VII.

VJII.

IY.

X .

X!

XXII.

XXIII.

INDIANS ON MOUNT EVEREST, 1960. By Brig. Gyan Singh . .

AMA DABLAM, 1959. By J. H. Emlyn Jones . . . .

ANNAPURNA 11, 1960. By Lt.-Col. J. 0. M. Roberts . .

DHAULAGIRI, 1959. By Fritz Moravec . . . . . . DHAULAGIRI, 1960. By Kurt Diemberger . . . . THE ASCENT OF MASHERBRUM. By Thomas F. Hornbein, M.D.

YUGOSLAV EXPEDITION TO TRISUL GROUP, 1960. By A. Kunaver

SIKKIM, 1960. Bv H. V. R. Iengar . . . . . . ACROSS THE INNER LINE. By Anne Davies . . . .

SURVEY OF KASHMIR AND JAMMU, 1855 TO 1865. By Col. R. H. Phillimore, C.I.E., D.S.O. . . . . . .

WANDERING IN THE HIMALAYAS. By Fukata Kyfiya . . A SMALL EXPEDITION TO GANESH HIMAL. By P. J. Wallace . . NORTH-EAST OF POKHARA. By Gordon Jones . . . . DISTEGHIL SAR, 1960. By Gunther Starker . . . .

THE ASCENT OF TRIVOR. By Wilfrid Noyce . . . . HIMALAYAN SCIENTIFIC AND MOUNTAINEERING EXPEDITION,

1960-61. PART I. By Norman Hardie . . . . A HIGH WALK IN THE CENTRAL HIMALAYA. By A. D. Moddie . . ASCFNT OF NOSHAQ. By Dr. Yajiro Sakato . . . . OBITUARY : Ing. Piero Ghiglione . . . . . . REVIEWS: (1) Pilgrimage for Plants (Frank Kingdon-Ward). ( 2 )

Common Medicinal Plants of Darjeeling and Sikkim Himalaya (Dr. K . Biswas). (3) Flora of Afghanistan. (4) Lure of Everest (Brig. Gyan Singh). (5) No Purdah in Padam (Antonia Deacock). (6) The Last Blue Mountain (Ralph Barker). (7) Because It Is There (George Lowe). (8) The White Spider ( H . Harrer) . . . . . . . .

CLUB PROCEEDINGS AND NOTFS ON EXPEDITIONS . . . .

L I S T O F P L A T E S

Phurbt Chyachu from B.C. . . . . . . fac'ngp . 20 'Rig White Peak' in Jugal-Hima1 . . . . . . .. 20 ~angtang-Himal from Ganja-La . . . . . . .. 20 Dorje Lhakpa below Dorje Lhakpa glacier . . . . .. 21 Langtang Lisung. the highest peak in Langtang-Himal . . , . 2 1 A general view of the mountain showing route and camps . . ,, 28 Vlew of mountain Base Camp . . . . . . , , 28 Vlew from the upper ridge . . . . . . .. 29 Party of Sherpas just below the dome . . . . ., 29 Dhaulag~ri: north-east ridge. left skyline . . . . . , 36 The 12. 000 ft . high north face of Dhaulagiri . . . . .. 36 Ernst Forrer in descent from summit . . . . .. 48 May 17th. 1960. on summit of Dhaulagiri . . . . .. 48 Dha1il.l. r~ri (26. 975 ft.). the 'White Mountain' . . . . ,, 48 Vievg i ~ r r wide snow-saddle of north-east col . . . . ) . 48 Enor 1:s view from Camp 6 (c . 25. 600 ft.) towards Tibet . . .. 49 The 1 h-east face of Masherbrum . . . . . . .. 68 Can . 19. 500 ft . . . . . . . . . .. 68 W1l1 qoeld at the bergschrund . . . . . . .. 68 W11l 6oeld on the summit ridge . . . . . . .. 69 Our ialti high altitude porters . . . . . . . . 69 Car ns seen from above . . . . . . , , 69 Tr~r seen from ridge above Camp I11 . . . . .. 72 Bay- . np . . . . . . . . . . .. 72 Carl and Nanda Devi . . . . . . .. 73 Up! ali Ganga valley . . . . . . .. 73 Port; amgyal assists Antonia Deacock across a stream . . , , 92 Eve ' s Porter Namgyal and Antonia Deacock . . . , 92 Won. 1 Overland Himalayan expedition. 1958 . . .. 93 Diste~' 1 Sar. 25. 868 ft.. seen from Base Camp . . .. 132 M ~ ~ J ~ J . I % Chish (6. 608 m.) above the Khiang glacier . . .. 133 Kuriva~lg Chish (7. 850 m.) . . . . . . .. 133 The 1~~8-mile ridge of Trivor . . . . . . . 138 Disteghll Sar from the north-west col of Trivor . . .. 139 P~ero C hlglione . . . . . . . . .. 158

M A P S A N D D I A G R A M S Sketch map I . . . . . . . . P . 39 Sketch map 2 . . . . . . . .

9 . 43 Sketch map of Trisul group . . . . . . facing p . 72 Route from Kathmandu to Kathmandu . . . . p . 104 Sketch map showing the position of the peaks and camps . . .. 137

THE

H I M A L A Y A N J O U R N A L

PRLC'B 14 ~ U P R B S

LIST OF PLATES '

Nuptse. Central ridge and South face . . I .. Tashi on the steep ice below 111 . . . . . . Tashi descending from the summit . . . . . . The upper basin of ihe. glacier with Mindpin Pedk . . The snout of the glacier . . . . . . . . Naval expedition to Nanda Kot . . . . . . Twin peaks of Nanda Devi from advance Base Camp . Ama Dablam rears above the site of Silver Hut . . . . The two peaks of Makalu from the s ~ r n m i t of Pethangtse . . View of Kondus dlacier . . . . . . . .

... View from the vicinity of high camp 3 above the Sia La The summit mass and West ridge of Mount Gheot . . Vjew of K6 from the east . . . . . . Looking across south-east branch of the Bara Shigri from

Peak 19. 400 f t . . . . . . . . . Shigri Parbat. 21.800 ft.. from north-west . . . . Camp 1 on the Grachma Glacier with K12 in the background Unnamed peaks over 21. 000 feet in the Upper Gyong Valley Porters descending the ice-slope below the pass . . . . The Hushe Valley . . . . . . . . The Aling Glacier . . . . . . . . Sceptre and Mitre from Camp la . . . . . . Mitre and Cathedral Peaks seen up NE . Aling Glacier from

Camplb . . . . . . . . . . Twin Peaks at head of West Aling . . . . . . View north up the main gorge of the Jagdula Khola . . Matathumba: the last few feet . . . . . . Camp on Matathumba Glacier . . . . . . Matathumba . . . . . . . . . . Arrival of the expedition at Kaigaon . . . . Neelakantha. 21. 640 feet . . . . . . Chowkhamba Base Camp. 12.000/13. 000 feet . . . . Malana Glacier from south-east . . . . . . South branch of Malana Glacier. Peak 18. 413 and Manikaren

spires . . . . . . . . . . lndrasan from 16.00 0.foot col. looking north-west . . Advance camp being organized . . . . . . The view from the advance camp . . . . . . Northern face of Mana Peak . . . . . . Climbing the ice-slopes of the North Col . . . . Ascending snow-slopes above the North Col. after leaving

camp 4 . . . . . . . . . . Chinese mountaineers on the upper slopes of Everest at (?)

83300 m . (27. 23 1 feet) . . . . . . . .

facing p . 9 9

> 9

9 9

.. 9 8

$ 1

3 9

9 P

- 1

..

.. 3 9

.. 9 7

.. 9 9

9 9 .. ..

T H E

H I M A L A Y A N J O U R N A L

RECORDS OF T H E HIMALAYAN CLUB

EDITED BY

DR. K. BISWAS, M.A., D.Sc. (EDIN.), F.R.S.E., F.N.I., F.A.S., F.B.S.

' T o encourage and assist Himalayan travel and exploration, and lo extend knowledge of the Himalaya and adjoin- ing mounta in ranges through science,

art, literature, and sport.'

VOLUME X X I V 19Gz-Gj

O X F O R D UNIVERSITY PRESS 1964

C O N T E N T S Page

1

THE ASCENT 01: JANNU : I. BEYOND CAMP VI. By Pierre Leroux . . . .

11. THE MOVE UPWARDS. By Lionel Terray . . 111. THE SIJMMIT. By Paul Keller . . . .

ASCENT OF NUPCHU. By Sasuke Nakao . . . .

EVEREST, 1962. By Suman Dubey . . . . . . TRANSPORT AND SHERPAS ON MOUNT EVEREST, 1963. By J. 0. M .

Roberts . . . . . . . . . . PUMORI-THE DAUGHTER MOUNTAIN (23,442 FEET) : GERMAN-

SWISS HIMALAYAN EXPEDITION, 1962. By Gerhard Lenser . . VI.

THE NETHERLANDS HIMALAYAN EXPEDITION TO CENTRAL WEST- NEPAL, 1962. By P. van Lookeren Campagne . . . .

DHAULA HIMAL. By James Roberts . . . . . . THE JAGDULA EXPEDITION, 1962. By Denise Evans . .

MANA-NILGIRI EXPEDITION, 1962. By Capt. S. N . Dubey . .

XI. A CAMPING TRIP TO THE HIMALAYA, 1960. By Dr. W. Hamberger

ITALIAN EXPEDITION TO THE PUNJAB HIMALAYAS, 1961. By Paolo Consiglio . . . . . . . . . .

XIII. THE ASCENTS OF INDRASAN AND DEO TIBBA. By Prof. Dr. K . Onodera . . . . . . . . . .

XIV.

xv. XVI.

XVII.

KHINYANG CHHISH, 1962. By Dr. P. J. Horniblow . . SWAT AND INDUS KOHISTAN. By Trevor Braham . . . . BRITISH-SOVIET PAMIRS EXPEDITION, 1962. By Sir John Hunt . . EXPEDITIONS AND NOTES : (I) Sherwood College (Naini Tal)

Mountaineering Activities. (2) Huinchuli, 1962. (3) The Accident on Leo Pargial. (4) Kulu Notes, 1962-63. ( 5 ) An Attempt on Nilgiri Parbat, 21,240 Feet . . . .

XVIII.

XIX.

OBITUARY : Major E. J. E. Mills and B. Bentley Beetham . BOOK REVIEWS : (1) Annapurna I1 (R. H. Grant). (2) The Last

of the Annapurnas (M. S. Kohli). ,(3) Karakoram (Fosco Maraini) . . . . . . . . . .

XX.

XXI.

XXII.

L I S T O F P L A T E S

The artte rising to the top of the ' Butoir ' and on the left the ' Dentelle ' . . . . . . . .

A telephoto close-up of the arCte . . . . . . Wall of seracs on the arEte rising to Camp 1V . . . . On the side of the artte at the top of the ' Butoir ' . . Nupchu (7,028 metres) in centre, the Nupchu valley in below

and the side of Sharphu in left . . . . . . Jannu (7,710 metres) and its western satellites, from the north An aluminium bridge and a small log bridge used in the

ice-fall . . . . . . . . . . A 24 feet and an 8 feet ladder on the blocks separating two

crevasses . . . . . . . . . . In the Lhotse couloir approaching the Yellow Band . . On the South Col, 26,260 feet, before departing for Camp VI View from ' The Pass of the Disappointed ' . . . . The 1.5 km. north-east ridge of the Pumori looking back . . May 17, 1962. On top of the Pumori (7,145 m.) . . Heavily loaded on the south-east wall of the Pumori . . Route through fluted section of N. face, Nilgiri, from Camp 11 Traverse on N. face between Camps I1 and I11 . . . . Nilgirl, N. summit, seen from W. Tilicho col . . . . Putha Hiunchuli (23,750 feet) from above Camp 11 . . Fore summit of Ghustung North with glacier route . . Dhaula IV (25,064 feet) from west with main glacier and ice-

falls . . . . . . . . . . Kanjiroba from the Kagmara Lekh . . . . . . Looking from Kagmara 111 to Kagmara I . . . . C.B. 12 taken from south side of C.B. 13, 20,550 feet . . C.B. 12, ca 20,300 feet, and the SW. ridge . . . . Southern side of peak 20,830 feet (6,349 metres) . . Ali Ratni Tibba seen from Base Camp on the grassy alp

(3,800 metres) . . . . . . . . The final peak of Indrasan from Camp 111 . . . . Camp 11, Khinyang Chhish . . . . . . Khinyang Chhish . . . . . . . . Hispar Glacier and south-east ridge of Khinyang Chhish . . Falak Ser: the first view from the gorge . . . . Porters on the way to camp below Falak Ser . . . . View from top of Consolation Peak showing Siri Dara plateau True right-hand edge of Siri Dara ice-fall . . . . Siri Dara plateau and ' Breithorn ' from above Ice-fall Camp Peak Patriot (6,100 metres) from Camp 111 . . . . J. Brown on Peak Patriot . . . . . . Peak ' Co-operation ' (5,640 metres) froni Vavilova Glacier

Descending the upper Vavilova ice-fall . . . facing p . 127 The head of the Solang nulla. Kulu Himalaya . . . . . . 136 JELN 10 1944 . . . . . . . . 1. 137 B51Zkun from Majna Chakratirtha. October. 1951 . . 156 Peak 20. 830 feet (Kulu Makalu) and Rubal Kang (rock

point of D.H.E.) from north-west . . . . .. 162

M A P S A N D D I A G R A M S

Route taken by the Netherlands Expedition . . . . p . 45 Dhaula Himal . Diagrammatic sketch map . . . . sacin! p . 51 Survey of India map showing Dibi nala and surrounding area . 86 Indrasan and Deo Tibba . . . . . . p . 91 Khinyang Chhish and general area . . . . . . .. 98 View of south ridge of Khinyang Chhish . . . . .. 100 Map of Swat and Indus Kohistan . . . . . . .. 108 Sketch map of the Garmo Glacier . . . . . . .. 125