Subby’s Guides Presents

The How To Mini-Tutorial For: Build a Thanatar Siege-Automata!

Forward: First and foremost this is a guide to converting miniatures, I have used pictures from various sources in this guide (referenced where possible), and these are for example purposes only. I am in no way affiliated with Games Workshop, Forgeworld or Citadel Miniatures. If you have any suggestions for other guides or new techniques then feel free to email me at da_sub(at)subsunderground.com. This guide is presented free and as-is; it assumes you already have some knowledge of assembling miniatures. If you need tips on undercoating, using spray pack, basic painting and assembly then have a look around online (or for another guide on this site). If you want to host this file on your site then drop me an email. The two primary sources of pictures other than my own are as follows: Forgeworld - http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/New_Stuff/THANATAR_SIEGE-AUTOMATA.html Eye of Terror Blog - http://eyeoferror.blogspot.com.au/2014/07/legio-fureans-thanatar-siege-automata.html First things First: First you need equipment; -Thanatar Siege-Automata Kit from Forgeworld (http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/New_Stuff/THANATAR_SIEGE-AUTOMATA.html) -X-acto or Stanley knife (for carefully cutting things) -Jewellers/razer saw (for really cutting things) -Super glue – for gluing metal and resin to most other things -5 Minute Epoxy – if you think you need a stronger bond than super glue -A bits box – for extra parts to detail the base.

-Small detail files – for removing waste and shaping things -Green stuff/sculpting epoxy – for gap filling -Paper clips/brass rod – for pinning -Hardened Steel Clippers -1mm, 2mm and 2.5mm drill bits and a pin vice. -Felt-tipped marker. Prep: Take all the bits out of the packets. Check to make sure everything is there, specifically look for any little tiny cables that may have broken off in shipping. Tuck them somewhere safe to glue back on later or replace then with a strand of fine wire. Wash all the parts, I recommend using Simple Green or dishwashing liquid to get the mold release agent off. Then clean any vents and mold lines off before proceeding to assembling this kit. You will notice that in places I replaced the miss-cast cables with white metal ones. These are from Dragon Forge Design on the Modelling Supplies section of the store (Sample Pack Bundle). http://www.dragonforge.com/

Parts List: 1: Plasma Compression Chambers 2: Hellix Mortar Core 3: Main Torso 4: Arm Sockets 5: Shin Front Plates 6: Shin Shock Absorber Mounts 7: Shin Shock Absorbers 8: Hellix Mortar Blast Shield 9: Lower Torso 10: Ammo Feeds 11: Upper Arms 12: Shin Centres 13: Thighs 14: Heavy Bolter Arm 15: Standard Arm 16: Hellix Mortar Mount 17: Right Feet 18: Left Feet 19: Manipulators 20: Hip Joint 21: Rear Shin Hydraulics 22: Hip Supports

A larger Version of this Image can be found on the Forgeworld website.

One – Hellix Mortar Sub-Assembly: Take parts 1,2 and 8. Test fit and then glue the blast shield on the core, it should neatly slot into place. Then glue the Compression Chambers onto the rear of the Core. They are slotted to fit onto the tabs on the six spots on the Core. It should come out as pictured below. As a tip you can leave this separate and attach it onto the model is painted so you can get to all the detail.

Two – Legs and Hips: The most important tips for assembling the legs are the following: First – The Shin Shock Absorber Mounts (6), should be attached to the Thighs before you assemble the rest of the legs. They come in two pairs for the Thighs with are neatly labelled left and right.

Second – If you want to modify the pose so that the model is standing on something, striding or generally in a different pose than your two basic options; you will need to change the piston length of the Shin Shock Absorbers (7). To do this, neatly trim out the piston and pin a different length of 2.5mm plastic rod in place. Take note that the pistons are in pairs.

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Third – It is easier to paint the model with the arms, Rear Shin Hydraulics (21), Shin Front Plates (5), and the Shin Shock Absorbers (7) unattached. That said attach the pairs of Shin Shock absorbers to the left and right Thigh. Then take the Hip Joint (20) and the Hip Supports (22). Test fit them as they only fit one way around. Then Glue the parts together.

Take the base and work out roughly where you want the feet to sit. Use a little Blutac to test fit the legs together and once you are happy pin and glue them. You will need to juggle multiple parts here as you will need to make sure your feet sit flat on the base or are in the right place for your pose.

It is essential that you get is right because the feet will not marry up correctly at the socket if they are splayed too far apart or at a weird angle. Anyhow the basic process should look as follows:

After you put the legs together you can (I recommend leaving them off till after painting to make things easier), put the Rear Shin Hydraulics (21) and Shin Front Plates (5) on, they are labelled left and right so it is pretty straight forward.

Three – Torso: The Torso consists of three parts, Main Torso (3), Lower Torso (9), and Hellix Mortar Mount (16). They all go together neatly with no difficulty.

Here I am wedging the Hellix Mortar Mount in place with a file.

Four - Arms: The most important factors about the arms are the following: a) The Upper Arms (11) only go on one way. b) The Manipulators are labelled for left and right arms. The photos below demonstrate this.

Mauler Bolter Arm

Normal Arm

Normal Arm assembled

Ammo Feed: The two halves of the ammo feed go together pretty easily. To get them to match up with your arm pose you may have to heat up the ammo feed with a hair dryer or hot water and gently bend it to re-shape the resin.

Finish It: Paint the Model and attach the last couple of bits you left off for painting. Then enjoy fielding this brilliant Forgeworld Model!

Hope you enjoyed it. Check back for more soon from www.subsunderground.com