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MONISHABHARADWAJisaqualifiedchefandanaward-winningauthor.ShewasGuildofFoodWriters’CookeryWriteroftheYearin2003,StylishIndianinMinuteswontheGuildofFoodWriters’CookeryBookoftheYearandTheIndianPantrywonaprestigioussilvermedalatGermany’sDeutschlandAkademieausgezeichnet.SherunsasuccessfulIndiancookeryschoolinLondoncalledCookingWithMonisha(www.cookingwithmonisha.com)andteachesatsomeoftheUK’stopcookeryschools.MonishahasbeenGuestChefatBenares,aMichelinstarrestaurantinLondonandattheIntercontinentalHotel,ParkLane.SheisofteninvitedtojudgefoodeventssuchastheGreatTasteAwardsandhaslecturedatSOAS,UniversityofLondon,about‘TheHistoryandCultureofIndiathroughitsFood’.
CONTENTS
Introduction
1RICE
2FLOURS
3MEAT
4POULTRY
5FISH&SEAFOOD
6EGGS
7DAIRY
8LENTILS&BEANS
9VEGETABLES
10SNACKS,SIDES&STREETFOOD
11GRILLEDFOODS
12SALADS&RAITAS
13CHUTNEYS,PICKLES&RELISHES
14DESSERTS
15DRINKS
Index
Resources
HOWTOUSETHISEBOOK
Selectoneofthechaptersfromthemaincontentslistandyouwillbetakentoalistofalltherecipescoveredinthatchapter.Alternatively,jumptotheindextobrowserecipesbyingredient.Lookoutforlinkedtext(whichisinblue)throughouttheebookthatyoucanselecttohelpyounavigatebetweenrelatedrecipes.Youcandoubletapimagestoincreasetheirsize.Toreturntotheoriginalview,justtapthecrossinthetopleft-handcornerofthescreen.
GaramMasalaSambharPowderGodaMasalaKolhapuriMasalaPanchPhoron
FOODISCENTRALTOANINDIANPERSON’SLIFE.ITISSPOKENABOUTALLTHETIME,ISAGREATICEBREAKERANDISCOOKEDANDEATENTHROUGHOUTTHEDAY.THE
HIGHESTDEMONSTRATIONOFLOVEININDIAISTOFEEDSOMEONE.
INTRODUCTIONIndianfoodneedsnointroduction.Itsrich,deliciousflavoursandenticingaromaofherbsandspiceshavetemptedthemostconservativepalatesandrestaurantsstartedbypeoplefromtheAsiansub-continenthavetakenIndianfoodacrosstheseasandmadeitavailabletoawideaudience.Attentiontodetail,excellentchefs,cleverpackagingandmarketinghaveensuredthatpeopleknowmoreaboutitnowthaneverbefore.
IgrewupinMumbaiwhenitwasstillcalledBombay,amongstgreatloversoffood,thenwentontotrainasachefattheInstituteofHotelManagement,CateringTechnologyandAppliedNutrition,commonlyknownasIHM,Mumbai.Everyevening,I’dbeinthefamilykitchentryingoutrecipesbyblendingspicesandpractisingtechniquessuchasgratingacoconuttomakemilk.Thosewereanintenselyfood-relatedthreeyearsandIlovedthechancetobecreativeandlearnaboutthediversityofacuisinethathadsucharichhistoryandsomuchvariety.MumbaiwasandstillisIndia’scommercialcapitalandthereforeattractspeoplefromalloverthecountry.ItwaswonderfultotasteawidevarietyofregionalIndiancuisinessuchasSindhi,Gujarati,southIndianandKashmiri,throughfriends,neighboursandspecialityrestaurants.IalsotriedarangeofregionaldishesonfamilyholidaystoalmosteverystateofIndia.IremembereatingKerala‘fishmolee’asaneight-year-oldandRajasthani‘dalbati’,arichdoughbreadservedwithgheeandlentils,atten.IstillvisitIndiaafewtimesayearandgoonfoodtrips–drivingoffthetouristtracktovisitmarkettownsandvillagesthatholdthesecretstogood,wholesome,regionalfare.
AsanewlytrainedchefIcametoEnglandinthe1980stostudyjournalism.IhadcompletedadegreeinIndianHistoryinIndiaandwantedtofindawaytocombinemyintereststhroughwritingaboutIndianfood.IarrivedfromthewarmsunshineofBombaytoafoggyFebruarydayinLondon.IknewthatI’dhavetocookaspicedIndianmealtowarmupandsetoffinsearchoftherightingredients.Inthosedays,groceryshopsstillhadveryseasonalvegetablesandallIcouldseewereparsnips,swedesandBrusselssprouts.NotwhatIwasusedtoatall!Thankfully,Icouldbuyacauliflowerandmademyfirstcurrywitha
fewspicesthatIhadbroughtfromIndia.IlearntthatinordertobuyavarietyofIndianingredients,I’dhavetogotoan‘ethnic’areaandsomademywaytoSouthall.Imaginemydelightuponseeingcorianderleaves,coconutandturmeric–allingredientsthatnow,almost30yearslater,areseeninmanysupermarketsallovertheUK.
TherewasaninterestinIndianfoodintheUKatthetime,buttherecipesIfoundinbooksandmagazinesseemedcomplex,withlonglistsofingredientsandmanystepstoachievean‘authentic’Indianmeal.Mycookingwassimpler,quickerandfuss-free.IstartedmycookeryschoolinLondon–CookingWithMonisha–whereItaughtmembersofthepublic,chefsandstudentsofhospitalitymanagementaneasy,manageablestyleofIndiancooking.CookingWithMonishaisavibrantschoolnowandIalsoteachtheIndiancoursesatseveraltopcookeryschoolsaroundtheUK.
TheIndianfoodthatisavailableintheUKisonlyasmallpartofaveryvastanddiversecuisine.Thishastodowithmigration:peoplefromnorthernIndia,mainlyPunjab,GujaratandBangladesh(whichwasapartofIndiauntil1947)broughttheirfoodtotheWestandadaptedittosuitlocaltastes.Disheswereclassifiedbyheat–‘hotvindaloo’and‘mildkorma’–andwerenamedaftercitiesthatwereimportantstrongholdsoftheBritishRaj–‘BombayAloo’and‘ChickenMadras’.NeitherofthesedishescanbefoundinIndia!Today,asmorepeopletraveltoIndiafromtheWest,thereisanappreciationofwhatliesbeyondthesamosaandthejalfrezi.
Inthisbook,Ihaverecreatedacookerymasterclassatmyschool.I’dlikeyoutoconsiderthisapersonalone-to-onelessonwithmestandinginyourkitchen,guidingyouwithtipsandhintsaswecreatetheperfectIndianmeal.Thestep-by-stepphotographswillgiveyouanideaoftechniqueandtextureaswellasthedifferentstagesofthedishes.Pleasebearinmindthatyoucanpersonalisetherecipesbyaddingmoreorlesschilli,seasoningoroil.
AnincreasingnumberofpeoplearenowcookingIndianfoodathome.Althoughjarredcurrysaucesareavailableinsupermarkets,homecookshaverealisedthattheyareoftentoogreasy,overlyspicedandfullofsalt;nowhereclosetotherealthing.CookeryschoolsallovertheworldnowofferIndiancoursesandtheinterestinlearningnotjusthowtousespices,butalsoregionalIndiancooking,isincreasing.PeoplewhocometomycookeryschoolnowtalkaboutKeralancurriesoraBengalipineapplechutneythattheyhaveeatenon
aboutKeralancurriesoraBengalipineapplechutneythattheyhaveeatenonvisitstoIndia.ManytouristshavebeentoRajasthanandhada‘thali’,wherelotsofdishesareservedalltogetherinsmallbowls,ortoDelhiwherethey’vediscoveredthejoysofrichlyspiced,MughalcurriessuchasButterChicken.
FoodiscentraltoanIndianperson’slife.Itisspokenaboutallthetime,isagreaticebreakerandiscookedandeatenthroughouttheday.ThehighestdemonstrationofloveinIndiaistofeedsomeoneandoneofthefirstquestionsoldermembersofanIndianfamilyasktheyoungeroneswhoareawayfromhomeis‘haveyoueaten?’Recipesaretraditionallypasseddownfrommothertodaughter.However,moreandmoreIndianmenarenowseeninthekitchen,especiallyoutsideofIndia.AspeopletravelandTVshowsbringIndiatolivingroomstheworldover,Indiancookeryisreceivingattentionfromnewerandevermorecuriousaudiences.
EVERYTHINGABOUTINDIACANBEBETTERUNDERSTOODIFWEACCEPTTHATTHEREARENO
GENERALISATIONSABOUTTHECOUNTRY.EVERYFEWMILES,THELANGUAGE,FOOD,DRESSANDWAYSOFLIFECHANGEANDITISALANDOFBOTHSIMILARITIESAND
GREATCONTRASTSHELDTOGETHERBYAGEOGRAPHICALBOUNDARY.
LOCALFOODSAREATTHEHEARTOFREGIONALCOOKING.ININDIA’STOWNSANDVILLAGES,FRESHFOODISBOUGHTDAILYFROMFARMERS’MARKETSANDEVERYTHING
THATISCOOKEDISCONSUMEDONTHESAMEDAY.
DIVERSITYININDIANCOOKINGIhaveaddressedregionalvariationsbylooselydividingthecountryintonorth,north-east,south,westandeast,althoughnosuchdivisioncancovertheentiretyofIndiancooking,asthatmaytakealifetimeoftravel,researchandexperimentation!
Thisdiversitycanbebetterunderstoodbyexploringfouraspects.
Climate→InthehotterregionsofIndiasuchasinthesouth,whichisclosetotheEquator,orinRajasthan,partofwhichisdesert,foodsneedtobecooling.Withintherepertoireofspices,chilliesareconsideredcoolingasthecapsaicininthemmakesyousweat.Thiscoolsthebodydown,andthereforefoodsfromtheseregionsareveryhotandspicy,unlikeinthenorth,whichcanbecoldandthereforeusesalotofgarammasala,awarmingspiceblend.
Geography→Localfoodsareattheheartofregionalcooking.PeoplelivingalongIndia’s4,000-milecoastlineeatseafoodcombinedwithfoodssuchascoconut,whichcommonlygrowthere.AGoanfishcurrymostoftenhaspomfret,aseafish,gentlysimmeredinatangy,spicycoconutcurry.InthefieryheatoftheRajasthandesert,waterisscarceandfoodsarethereforeoftencookedinmilk.
Religion→Almost35percentofIndiansarevegetarian,mainlyforreligiousreasons.HindusdonotgenerallyeatbeefandtheMuslimpopulationdoesnoteatpork.InanIndianhome,non-vegetarianmealsareservedonlyacoupleoftimesaweekandtheseusuallyincludechicken,fishormutton,whichinIndiaisgoatmeatandnotlamb.WhenIndiandishesareadaptedfortheWesternworld,lambreplacesgoat.Thecostofthesenon-vegetarianfoodsandthetropicalheatmeanthatfamilymealsareusuallylighterandleantowardsvegetariandishes.VegetarianisminIndiahasitsrootsintworeligions–JainismandBuddhism–althoughmanyBuddhistsinIndiadoeatmeat.Theirreligionallowsthemtoeatwhateverisofferedtothemaslongastheyhavenotwitnessedtheslaughteroftheanimal.TheJainsfollownon-violencefurtherbynotevenconsumingroot
vegetablessuchasonionsandgarlicthatmayleadtothedestructionoflifeduringharvesting.
Foreigninfluences→ThesehavehadalargeparttoplayinshapingthemoderncuisineofIndia.TheGreeks,Chinese,Mughals,Portuguese,Dutch,FrenchandtheBritishbroughttheirowncuisines,ingredientsandcookingtechniquestoIndiaandtookdeliciouslyspicyrecipesalongsidespiceswhentheyreturnedhome.TodayblackpepperisusedtoflavournotjustIndianfoodbutmanycuisinesallovertheworld.ManyingredientsthatIndiancookingisbasedon–chillies,tomatoesandpotatoes–wereintroducedtoIndiabythePortugueseonlyabout500yearsago.AccordingtoT.R.Gopalakrishnan’sbookVegetableCrops,theBritishintroducedcauliflowersandcabbagestoIndiain1822.BritishvarietiesweregrowninMay/JunewhenIndiaenjoyssummerandthusthesecauliflowersadaptedtothehotandhumidconditionsoftheirnewenvironment.
THEREGIONSIhavealwaysfounditquitehardtodivideIndiaupintoregions.Thereisapoliticaldivisionthat’sfollowedbythegovernmentbutItendtolookatthecountryfromaculinaryperspective.I,therefore,almostdrawacrossthroughthecentreandaddresseachquarterasaregion,withtheadditionofthenorth-eastwhichisuniqueinitself.
TheNorth
PUNJABAlargenumberofIndianswholiveoutsideofIndiaarePunjabiinorigin.Inmanyfamilies,ancestorsseveralgenerationsagoleftIndiainsearchofbettereconomicprospectsandanewwayoflife.TheycarriedwiththemthecultureofIndiasomuchsothattodayinmanypartsoftheworldwhenonetalksofIndiancooking,itisPunjabifoodthatisbeingreferredto.Richonion-andtomato-flavouredcurries,orthedelicioustandoorifoodsthatarecookedslowlyinaclayovencalledthetandoor,originateinPunjab.ThePunjabis,boththeHindusandtheSikhs,lovetocelebratewithfood,drinkanddancingandtheirfeastsarelegendary.ItissometimessaidthatbecausemuchofPunjabisagricultural,thecookinghereisratherunsophisticated.Infact,mostIndianslovePunjabicookingandrestaurantsinthisstyledogreatbusinessineveryIndiantownandcity.Mostnon-Punjabisthinkofthisheartycuisineasbeinganoccasionaltreatandlookforwardtoameallacedwithgheeandaccompaniedbyfriedtreatssuchassamosasandpakoras.IngredientsthatyouwouldcommonlyfindinaPunjabikitchenaremeatandchicken,beanssuchaschickpeasandredkidneybeans,blacklentils,vegetablessuchascauliflower,potatoes,peasandturnipsandwholewheatflourtomakemanykindsofbreads.
UTTARPRADESHTwoofIndia’smostsacredHinducitieslieinthisstate.VaranasiandAllahabadarethrongedwithpilgrimseachyearanditisnotsurprisingthatUttarPradeshhasarichandvariedvegetariancuisine.All
religiousfoodinIndiamustincludeonlythoseingredientswhichareconsideredacceptableor‘sattvik’.Theseincludegrains,spices,naturallyripenedfruitandvegetablesandmilk.Anawarenessofwhatisandwhatisnotacceptableisinculcatedineachgenerationthroughupbringing.However,UttarPradeshdoeshaveanon-vegetarianrepertoireoffoodaswell.Corianderandcuminarefavouredspices,whilelegumesandpulsesformthebaseofmanycurries.
Oneofthemostfamousstylesofcookingthatoriginatesfromthisstateisthe‘Awadhi’stylefromLucknow(orAwadh,asitwasearlierknown).UntilnearlythemiddleofthetwentiethcenturyitwasaprincelystatewithNawabsasrulers.Theirfeastswererenownedandeventodaythe‘DumPukht’technique,whichliterallymeans‘tochokeoffthesteam’isconsideredanimportantskillinanyAwadhichef’srepertoire.Thisisatechnique,usedtomakebiryanisandrichcurriessuchasakorma,whereapotissealedwithdoughmadefromchapattiflour(atta)andwater.Atight-fittinglidensuresthatnosteamcanescapeandthatalltheflavourisretainedinthefood.Often,thisdishwouldbeplacedoncoalsandslow-cookedforafewhours.Livecoalswouldalsobeplacedonthelidsothatheatwasprovidedfromaboveaswellasfrombelow.Onestorysaysthat200yearsagoNawabAsaf-ud-Daulahbegantheconstructionofahugeedifice,theBaraImambara(whichisthemostimportantattractioninLucknowtodayandissaidtohavethebiggestvaultedhallintheworld).Hewoulddestroyapartoftheday’sbuildingworkatnightsothathisworkerswouldbeincontinuousemployment.Foodfortheworkersconsistedofrice,meatandvegetablesandasthiswasrequireddayandnight,itwasputinapotandsealedwithdoughtobeslowcookedallthetime.Oneday,theNawabtastedthismeal,foundittrulydeliciousandhaditadoptedintotheroyalkitchens.Awadh’smostfamousruler,theartisticWajidAliShah(1847–56)issaidtohaverefinedthetechniquefurtherbyaskinghiscookstoinventnewandexcitingdishestotempttheroyalpalate.Allsortsoffinedishes,suchassucculentbiryanisandlambcurriescalled‘nihari’,aremadeinthedumpukhtstyleandspecialityrestaurantsinmanyfive-starhotelsaroundthecountryspecialiseinthiscuisine.In1999,somedistrictswereseparatedintoanewstate,Uttarakhand.
KASHMIRDuetoitsproximitytotheHimalayas,KashmirwasthenaturalpassagetoIndiaformanyinvaders.ItscuisineisthereforeamixofIndian,PersianandAfghanstyles.TherearetwodistinctcommunitieswholiveinKashmir–theMuslimsandtheHinduBrahminswhoareknownas‘KashmiriPundits’.ThePunditsareoneofthefewmeat-eatingBrahmincommunitiesinIndiaalthoughbeefisstrictlytaboo.TheircookingisbasedoningredientssuchasyogurtandasafoetidawhereastheMuslimsusegarlicandKashmirishallotscalled‘praan’.ThecuisineofKashmiralsomakesthemostofthelocalproducesuchaswalnuts,driedapricotsandpistachios.Spicessuchasdriedgingerpowder,fennelpowderandKashmirisaffronareused.Yogurtformsthebaseformanycurries.ThetruecookingofKashmircanbeseenintheWazawanstyle,whichisfragrantwithspicesincludingcardamom,clovesandcinnamon.Eventoday,themasterchefsofKashmirarethedescendantsofthetraditionalchefsfromSamarkand,theWazas.TheoriginalWazascametoIndiawiththerulerTimurwhenheenteredIndiainthefifteenthcentury.TheroyalWazawan,comprisingof36courses,isafeastthatfewcangetthroughandisthereforeservedonlyatspecialoccasionslikeweddings.Themealbeginswiththeritualofwashingthehands,thenthedishes(‘tramis’)filledwithfoodbegintoarrive.Theentréesareeatenwithasticky,densevarietyofricewhichisprized.MuchoftheWazawanismeat-basedasthisisasignofaffluence,butvegetariandisheswithlotusrootorpotatoesarealsoserved.ThemealiswasheddownwithKahwateawhichisflavouredwithsaffron,cinnamonandalmonds.
DELHINewDelhiisthecapitalofIndiaandhasacosmopolitanpopulationofpoliticians,diplomatsandbusinessofficials.ThecuisinereflectsthediversityofitspeopleandavarietyofstylesfromtherichPunjabitothevegetarianBaniaandthenon-vegetarianKayasthacoexist.Specialityfoodquartersarelinedwithstallssellingtandoorifoods,crispsamosasandsyrupysweetsbut,aseveningturnstodusk,thecity’srichandfamousdressupintheirbestsilkstoattendcountlesscocktailanddinnerparties.Alcoholisservedfreelyatthesepartiesandthefoodisamixofstylesfromaroundtheworld,eachtemptingthegourmetwithnewerandfanciercreations.
Delhiisfamousforits‘Mughlai’cooking,alegacyoftheMughalrulerswho
reignedoveralargepartofIndiafromDelhi,theircapital,beforetheBritishtookover.TheofficiallanguageoftheMuslimrulersofthisdynastywasPersianaswerethenamesofdishessuchasbiryani,kebabsandkoftas,whicharestillinuse.Dishespreparedintheimperialkitchens–meatsinbutterysauces,amedleyofseasonalvegetablesflavouredwithexoticingredientssuchaswhitecumin,driedplumsandpomegranateseeds,andfruitandrose-flavouredsweets–haveinfluencedarichandfestivecuisinethatisstillmuchlovedtoday.
TheWest
RAJASTHANRajasthan,whichliesintheTharDesertofIndia,isalsocalledthe‘LandofPrinces’becauseofthemanyprincelykingdomsthatexistedherebeforeIndiabecameindependentfromBritishrulein1947.Inalltheroyal
kitchensofRajasthan,thepreparationoffoodwasraisedtothelevelsofanartform.The‘Khansamas’orroyalcookswereartistswhoguardedtheirrecipeswithavengeanceandpassedthemdownonlytoaworthysuccessor.
EverydayRajasthanicookingwasdesignedforthewar-likelifestyleofmedievalRajasthanwhenwarlordsspentmanydaysawayfromhome,inbattle.Alsobeinganariddesert,theavailabilityofingredientsoftheregionwaslimited.Foodthatcouldremainunspoiltforseveraldaysandcouldbeeatenwithoutheatingwaspreferred,moreoutofnecessitythanchoice.Thescarcityofwater,freshvegetablesanddelicatespiceshashaditseffectonthecookingofthisstate.MostfoodsinthishotregionarestillcookedingheeasitisconsideredcoolinginAyurveda.
InthedesertbeltofJaisalmer,BarmerandBikaner,chefsuselesswaterandmoremilk,buttermilkandghee.AspecialfeatureofRajasthanicookingistheuseofamchoor(mangopowder)thatmakesupforthescarcityoftomatoesinthedesert,andasafoetida,thatflavourscurriesthatdonothaveonionsandgarlic.
Generally,mostbrightredRajasthanicurrieslookspicierthantheyactuallyare–MathaniachilliesfromnearJodhpurweretraditionallyusedforcolourandauniqueflavourthatwasearthyratherthansimplyhot.TheproductionofthesechillieshasdecreasedinthepastfewyearsandcooksnowsubstitutethesewiththemorereadilyavailableKashmiridriedredchillies.
GUJARATGujaratisthemango-shapedstatetothewestofIndia.Itsnorthernregionisfamousforitsdelicate,vegetariancuisineandmostespeciallyforthe‘thali’–ametalplatewithseveralsmallbowlsfilledwithanarrayoftemptingdishes.Thethalihasrice,breads,friedaccompanimentscalled‘farsans’,vegetables,lentilsandsweetsallservedatonce.
EvenwithinGujarat,thecuisineisvariedwithinthedifferentareas.Someareasaredrierthanothers,withlessrainfall.KathiawariandKachchifoodbothuseredchillipowdertocreateheat.Inthesouthernpartofthestate,greenchilliesareused,mostoftenwithfreshginger.InSurat,sugarisaddedtomostdishes,evenlentilsandvegetables,andmuchofthecuisinehasasweet,tangyflavour.
GujaratwasalsohometotheBohriMuslimcommunitywhomigratedtoMumbaiinlargenumbers.TheircookingisamixofthelocalGujaratiwith
Mumbaiinlargenumbers.TheircookingisamixofthelocalGujaratiwithIslamicovertonessuchastheinclusionofmeatanddatesandsomeofthedelicaciessuchas‘lambapau’,asmoky,wood-bakedbreadthatcannowbeeatenonlyinexclusiveeateries.
MAHARASHTRAMaharashtraliestothewestofIndiaandhasalongcoastlinealongtheArabianSea.Manycommunitieslivehere–differentsectsofMaharashtriansandthesettlerswhocamefromotherstates.
NativeMaharashtriancookinghasmanystyles–thePuneBrahminstylewithitssweet,simpleflavouringsanduseofpeanuts,thefierycurriesoftheDeccanPlateauandthecoconutandtamarindflavouringsofthecoastalareas.Thestategrowsalargevarietyofcropssuchaspeanuts,coconut,riceandmangoes.Themostsought-aftermangoinIndia,the‘Alphonso’,isgrownhereinRatnagiri.
ThebiggestcityinthestateisMumbai,whereIwasborn.Thisisacosmopolitancitydottedwithrestaurantsservingupeverytypeofregionalcuisine.HalfofmyfamilyisMaharashtrianandIgrewupeatingcurrieswithcoconutandpepper.TheParsiswhocamefromPersiaandsettledinGujaratlatermovedtoMumbai.TheircookingisamixofIranianandHinduandoutofrespecttothelocalcommunity,theydonoteatbeef.Theircookingisexemplifiedbythesweetandsourdhansak,athickcurrymadewithlentilsandvegetablesflavouredwithspicesandvinegar,stewsanddessertcustards.
TheSindhicommunitymigratedfromPakistanandmanyofthemsetuphomesinMumbai.Theyareknownfortheirloveoffoodandtheircookingisfreshandflavourful.Leafyvegetablesflavouredwithcumin,friedbreadsandspicedlentilswithgarlicarespecialities.
MADHYAPRADESHThisstateliesatthecentreofIndiaandthereforethecookingisinfluencedbyallthesurroundingstates,mostimportantly,byGujaratandMaharashtra.MP,asitisknown,hasagreatcultureofhospitalityandIhaveneverbeentoanyotherplaceintheworldwherethepeopleeatandofferotherssomuchfood.Thereseemtobesixmealsaday–breakfast,elevenses,lunch,tea,dinnerandsupperwithmany‘munchings’inbetween!
MuchofMPhasHinducooking.Indoreisfamousforitspickleshopsthatsellpreservedfruitandvegetables.InIndore,thelocalhighstreetturnsintoafood
lanecalledthe‘sarafa’aftertheshopscloseandeverynightpeoplestrollalongthisroadtoeatfreshsamosasandhotsweetjalebisandtodrinkwarmnut-flavouredmilk.Bhopal,thecapital,isanexception.RuledformanyyearsbyaMuslimruler,thecuisineisamixofIslamicandHindustyles.Kebabsandbiryanissitnexttosimplestir-friesandfreshbreads.
TheSouth
TAMILNADUTamilNaduissituatedontheeasterncoastofIndiabytheBayofBengal.ThisstatehassomeoftheoldestandmostfamousofallHindutemples,suchastheNatarajatempleinChidambaramandtheBrihadeeshwaratempleatTanjore.Tamilcultureisresplendentwithclassicalliteratureanddance,fascinatingbronzesculptureandaweinspiringarchitecture.Chennaiisthecapitalandishometosomeofthefinestartistsandartisansinthecountry.Amealhereismainlymadeupofriceservedinthreedifferentcourses.Firstwithsambhar,athicklentildishthatisflavouredwithfreshvegetables,thenwithrasam,athinnerversionofthesambharandonethatisslurpedupalongwiththerice(agreatexperience!)andfinallywithyogurtandricetocooloneinthestrongsouthernheat.Otherricepreparationsincludecoconutrice,tamarindrice,lemonriceandcountlessotherflavouringsthatprovidevarietyandtaste.Blackpepper,redchillies,cumin,turmeric,coriander,fenugreekandmustardseedsareusedincookingvegetablessuchasplantains,yams,gourdsandgreens.
ANDHRAPRADESHSituatedinthecentralsouth,AndhraPradeshisacombinationofHinduandMuslimcookery.BeforethepartitionofIndiaandPakistanin1947,thecityofHyderabadwasruledbytheNizam,amanreputedtobethewealthiestpersonintheworldatthetime.Hiskitchensproducedsomeoftherichestandtastiestfareandmanyofhisfavouritedisheshavebecometrademarkrecipesoftheregionsuchastherichdessert‘Khubanikameetha’,wherestewedIndianapricotsareservedwithnuts,creamandspices.Hyderabadicookeryischaracterisedbyslow-cookingmethods.
AnAndhramealisalsoservedincourses.InHyderabad,itistheMughlaisetofcourses,repletewithkebabsandbiryanis.Inotherpartsofthestate,thefoodismainlyvegetarianandagain,riceformsastaplepartofthediet.AndhraPradeshismostfamousforitspicklesandmanychutneysthataremadefromjustaboutanything–frommangoes,auberginesandtomatoestogingerand‘gongura’,anaromatic,localreddish-greenleafyvegetable.ThefoodofAndhraPradeshisknownforitschilliheat!InFebruary2014,theAndhraPradeshReorganisationActdividedthisstateintwo–AndhraPradeshandTelangana.
KARNATAKAKarnatakahasgivenIndiaaclassicrestaurantstyle.Udipi,asmalltempletown,isfamousforitsBrahmincooks.Thetownhasabeautiful,ancientKrishnatempleandtheBrahminswillfirstofferallcookedfoodtothegodsbeforeservingittodevotees.Pancakescalled‘dosas’,ricecakescalled‘idlis’andlusciouschutneysaremadeinUdipiandtinycafésthatservesuchfood(calledUdipirestaurants)arepopular.Theyservevegetarianfood.Coconuts,tamarind,beansandkokum,asourpurplefruitareusedinthecooking.Intheseparts,coconut(called‘Shriphal’)isconsideredthefruitofthegods.Everypartofthecoconuttreeisuseful–thefruitiseaten,thewaterwithinisdrunk,theleavesareusedforroofingandthehuskontheoutsideofthefruitismadeintoscouringtools.InHinduism,thecoconutisacomplete,specialfruit–onethatcanbeusedinitsentirety,inmanydifferentwaysandisthereforeusedinritualworship.ThehardoutershellandthesoftinteriorsymboliseaHinduwayoflifewhereonemustbeimpervioustothedifficultiesofdailylifewhilestillmaintaininganinnercalmandbalance.
Manyofmyancestors,whoareSaraswatBrahmins,comefromKarnatakaandasachildIwouldspendmysummersinthelittlevillageofGokarnjustoffthecoast.Iremembereatingfreshcurriesflavouredwithcorianderandcumin,roomfulsofmangoesandmanyunusualdishesmadewithjackfruitandbreadfruit.Wewouldwaitforthebreadfruittofalloffthetreesandthenmyauntwouldpeelandsliceit,rubitwithchilliandsaltanddeep-frytheslices.Purejaggeryorasliceofstarfruitwasoftenhandedoutafterdinnerandsomeofmybestchildhoodmemoriesareofstoningtamarindtreestogetatthesour-sweetfruit!
MeccaMasjidmosque(Charminar),Hyderabad,AndhraPradesh.
KERALATheservingofamealisanartforminthisstate.Traditionally,abananaleafisusedasaplateandallcoursesareservedatonce.Rice,lentils,vegetables,chutneys,crispaccompanimentsandsweets,flavouredwithcoconut,formafragrantfeast.Curryleavesandmustardseedsareusedtotempermanydishes.Preparationssuchasthorans(vegetablestir-fries),sambhar(lentilswithtamarind)anddishescookedwithplantains,yamsandcabbagesarepopular.CabbagesaregrownalloverIndiaduetotheirneutraltaste,whichcanbecombinedwithavarietyofspices.
Keralahasmanycommunitiesandthereforehasagreatmixofcuisines.SyrianChristians,MalabarMuslims,JewsfromCochinandHindusallliveandworkpeacefullyandshareaculturethatisvibrantandyetgentle.ThisisthestatewhereAyurvedahasbeenpreservedforcenturies,awayfromforeignconquestsandinterference,andisstillpractisedthroughfoodandlifestyle.
GOAGoanfoodisablendofthevariousinfluencesthathavebeenapartoftheregion’shistory.ThemaincommunitiesthatliveherearetheChristiansandtheHindus.Forboththemainfoodisfish,whichisnaturalbecauseGoaisonthecoast.FishingboatsgooutintotheArabianSeaintheearlyhoursandareback,ladenwithseafood,bydawn.
GoawasaPortuguesecolonyformanyyearsandthefoodofthatlandhasmainlyinfluencedtheChristianfoodofGoa.ThePortugueseintroducedpork
mainlyinfluencedtheChristianfoodofGoa.ThePortugueseintroducedporkandbeeftotheCatholicconvertsoftheregion,whocametolovedishessuchassorpotel,aspicyporkcurry,whereastheHindus,afish-eatingcommunity,didnotadoptthisnewcuisineduetoreligiousrestrictions.
HinducookeryismainlyfromtheSaraswatcommunitywhouselocalproduce,suchascoconuts,cashewnutsandmangoes.Spicessuchasasafoetida,mustardseedsand‘tirphal’orSzechuanpepper,areusedtoflavourmanyvegetablessuchasbittergourds,pumpkinsandplantain.
Chinesefishingnets,believedtohavebeenintroducedtoIndiabyPortuguesesettlersfromMacauinthesixteenthcentury,onthebayofFortCochin.ThesenetshavebeeninuseinFortCochinforcenturies,althoughthesedaysaremoreusedastouristattractions.
REFERREDTOASKettuvallams,HOUSEBOATSWEREINTRODUCEDTOINDIABYTHECHINESE.FIRSTBUILTINSOUTHWESTERNINDIA,THEYWEREUSEDTOTRANSPORTMERCHANDISE,SUCHASRICEANDSPICES,ALONGSIDEPASSENGERS,AROUNDTHE
BACKWATERSANDLAGOONSOFKERALA.
TheEast
Asinotherpartsofthecountry,availabilityoflocalingredientshasdeterminedtheflavoursofthisregion.Themanyriversandthefertilesoilallowsrice,mangoesandcoconutstogrowinplenty.Freshgingerandmustardseeds,bothwholeandcrushedtoapaste,areusedtoflavourcurries.
RiceiseatenwithallcurriesandtheBengalisgrowonecropayear,leavingtimetopursuewhattheyloveonlysecondtoeating–appreciationofthefinearts–music,paintingandliterature.DuetoitsproximitytotheMughal-influencednorth,theBengaliMuslimcuisineadoptsthebestofthekebabsandbiryanis,whicharetheprideofMughlaicooking.
WestBengalhasagreatvegetarianrepertoire,althoughfishdishessuchas‘MacherJhol’,athinsoupyfishcurryand‘ShorsheBataMacch’,fishiscookedinmustardpaste,aremostfamous.Theuseofspiceshereisuniqueandaspecialfive-spiceblendcalled‘panchphoron’isusedextensively.Thisisamixtureofcumin,fennel,fenugreek,kalonji(alsocalledonionseeds)andblackmustardseeds.Thisisfriedinalittleoilandaddedtomostdishes.
ThemostcharacteristicfeatureofBengalifoodistherepertoireofsweets.Thereisaspeciality‘mishti’orsweetshoponeverystreetcornerinKolkattaandtheyareevenprizedinotherIndiancities.Syrupyrasmalai,wheresoftdumplingsofclottedmilkaresteepedinsweet,spicedmilk;sandesh,afudge-likesweetmadeofthickenedmilk,andasweetyogurtcalled‘mishtidhoi’thatissweetenedwithdatepalmjaggery,allcomeoriginatefromtheeast.
TheNorth-East
ThisregionismadeupoftheSevenSisterStates:ArunachalPradesh,Assam,Manipur,Meghalaya,Mizoram,NagalandandTripuraaswellastheHimalayanstateofSikkim.
Thenorth-eastishometoavastnumberoftribeswhohavetheirownuniquecuisine.TheAditribeofArunachalPradeshcultivatericeandreartheirownpigsandchickens.TheAngamiofNagalandandManipurloveporkwithbamboo
shootsandtheBhutiaofSikkimeatdishessuchas‘phagshapa’–stripsofporkfatcookedwithradishandchilli.Thefoodhereismostlynon-vegetarian,withinfluencesfromnearbyChinaandMyanmar.BeingclosetotheBayofBengal,fishispopularinAssamandiscookedinmustardoilandeatenwithrice.
Thenorth-eastisfamousforarguablythehottestchilliintheworld(seepictured).Aptlycalled‘BhutJolokia’(GhostChilli)inAssam,‘NagaJolokia’inNagalandand‘Umorok’inManipur,itishighlyregardedforitsmedicinalpropertiessuchasitsuseinpain-relieftreatment.
ThefoodofNagalandisquitedifferentfromthatoftherestofIndiaduetotheChineseinfluence–ingredientssuchaspork,beef,bambooshootsandsoyabeanfeatureinmanydishes.Manipuritribesaredividedintothosethatliveinthehillsandthoseoftheplains.Theyexchangetheirproduce,sharingmeatandgrains,andeachtribehasaslightlydifferentcuisinedependingonwhattheygroworrear.
InMizoram,thecookingcanberatherblandbutincludeslentils,chicken,wildgame,pork,bambooshoots,localgrapewineandadrinkcalled‘zu’or‘zutea’whichislocallybrewedricebeer.ArunachalPradeshalsohasablandcuisineeatenwiththelocalricebeercalled‘apang’,whereasinMeghalayariceandporkareofteneatenwithaspicedmixcalled‘tungrymbai’whichhas,amongstotheringredients,fermentedsoyabeans,blacksesameseedsandgarlic.
AYURVEDAISNOTAONESIZEFITSALLSYSTEM.ITSADVICEONNUTRITIONTAKESINTOACCOUNTAPERSON’SINDIVIDUALCONSTITUTIONASWELLASTHEIRLIFESTYLE.
AYURVEDAThebasisofallIndiancookeryistheancientscienceofAyurveda,thesystemofholistichealingwhichistheoldestknownformofmedicine.Itwastranscribedabout5,000yearsagobyHimalayansageswhounderstoodthevalueandhealtheffectsofthevariousherbsthatgrewaroundthem.
Ayurvedabelievesthatwecanachieveoptimumhealthbynourishingthe‘dhatus’orthesevenmajorkindsoftissues,bothliquidandsolid,includingtheblood,plasma,muscles,fat,bone,bonemarrowandreproductivefluids,andbycleansingthebodyof‘ama’orthetoxicwastethataccumulatesinthebodyduetopoordigestion.
TheIndiankitchenisthereforeanapothecarywhichtendstotheeverydayhealthandwellbeingofafamily.Dailyfoodmustbefresh,usehealingspicesandherbssuchasturmericandcorianderandincludeahostoffoodgroups.AtraditionalIndianmealisbalancedsothatthereisalwaysacarbohydrate,aprotein-richcurry,fruitandvegetablesanddairyintheformofyogurt,cheeseormilk.
Ayurvedicwisdomispasseddownthegenerationsandchildrenareoftentoldtoeatcertainseasonalfoodsorfoodcombinationsthatworkwelltogether.MygrandmotherwouldalwaysmakesureIhadacoolingglassofmilkorsomeyogurtifI’deatenamango,considered‘heating’inAyurvedaasitoverstimulatesthedigestion,especiallyinthetropicalsummerheat.Mychildren,althoughbroughtupintheWest,knowthebenefitofginger,honeyandturmericteawhennursingacold.Indianrecipesensurehealingingredientsarecookedinthebestwaytoretainalloftheirgoodness.Thusvegetablesarelightlycookedtoimprovetheirdigestibility(overrawvegetables)andbasmatiriceissometimesdry-roastedforafewminutesbeforebeingboiledtomakeitlighterandeasiertodigest.
Ayurvedaaddressesindividualnutritionalneedsandsuggestseatingfoodsthatsuityourownconstitutionor‘dosha’.Each‘dosha’iscreatedbytheproportionandbalanceofthefiveelements–earth,fire,water,airandether–inyourbodyandthereforeeveryonewillrespondtofoodsinauniqueway.ThethreedoshasareVata(governedbyairandether),Pitta(governedbyfireand
water)andKapha(governedbywaterandearth).ThecoreofagoodIndiandietisonewhereyouareawareofhowyourbodyreactstovariousfoodsatdifferenttimes,andyoueataccordingly.Oftentwodoshascanbepresentinapersonatthesametimeortheycanchangeaccordingtotheseasons.Attimesallthedoshascombineinanindividualmakingtheconstitutionabalancedor‘tridoshic’one.It’snotalwayseasytofollowanAyurvedicdietbutcookingsimplemealswithfresh,seasonal,variedingredientsthatgiveyouasenseofwellbeingisquiteachievable.
SOMEHEALINGSPICESCinnamon–Lowersbloodsugar,antioxidantGarlic–Lowerscholesterol,anti-clottingGinger–AlleviatesmotionsicknessandindigestionTurmeric–Anti-inflammatoryandantioxidantpropertiesChilli–AidsdigestionAsafoetida–HelpsdigestionandpreventionofflatulenceCumin–AidsdigestionFennel–EasescolicCoriander–Aidsdigestion;highinfibreandvitaminC
THESIXTASTESAyurvedarecognisessixtastes:sweet,sour,salty,pungent,bitterandastringent.Allfoodsandherbsareclassifiedbytaste.Thetasteofafoodgivesusthekeytoitsactionsuponthedigestion,thebodyandultimatelyouremotionsandoursentiments.InSanskrit,thewordfortasteandemotionisthesame–‘rasa’.
SWEET→Grains,lentils,fruit,vegetables,dairy.Sweettasteisalsocalledneutraltaste.Thisistodistinguishitfromtheideaofsimplesugarordesserts.Itincludesproteins,carbsandfats,aswellasmostfruitsandvegetables.About90percentoffoodisofthesweet/neutraltaste.
SOUR→Cheese,sourfruit,citrusfruit,yogurt,fermentedfoods,wine.Sourtasteincludesallfoodsthatareaged,ripened,fermentedornaturallyacidic.Theyareconsideredtobepartiallypre-digestedfoodsordigestiveaids.Thustheyhelpstimulateappetite.Toomuchsourcanleadtobloodtoxicity,heartburn,acidityoritching.
SALTY→Seaplants,salt.Saltytastesstimulatetheflowofsalivaandthecreationofhydrochloricacidinthestomach,thusaidingdigestion.Toomuchsaltdisturbstheblood,leadstoinflammationorfluidretentionandoverwhelmsalltheothersenses.
PUNGENT→Cloves,chillies,garlic,onion.Pungenttasteincludesallfoodsandspicesthatarespicy,hotandsharp.Thewarmingqualitystimulatesthedigestivefireknownas‘agni’.Itreducesfluidsandhasacleansingaction.Toomuchpungentfoodcanleadtoexcessiveheat,burning,dehydration,restlessnessandirritability.
BITTER→Aubergine,spinach,leafyvegetables,turmeric.BittertasteisconsideredbalancingandhealingandisanessentialpartofIndiancookery.
ASTRINGENT→Broccoli,pomegranate,quinoa,cranberry.Thisisthedrytasteleftinthemouthafterasipofblackteaordrywhitewine.
BalanceIndiancookeryaimstocombinefoodsandherbsofallsixtastesintoabalancedwhole.Awell-roundedmealusesallsixtastesinproportion.
HomeCookingvsRestaurantFood
EatingoutwasnotthenormformostIndiansuntilafewyearsago.Withanextendedfamilylivingunderoneroof,itwascheaperandmorepracticaltoeatathomethantogoouttoarestaurant.Today,nuclearfamilieswithlesstimefinditeasytoeatoutbutmostpeopleareawarethattheywillneverbeabletoget‘gharkakhana’oratasteofhome,whentheyeatinarestaurant.
Thebiggestdifferencebetweenhomeandrestaurantfoodisthatallhomecookingisbasedontheprinciplesofgoodhealth,withattentionbeingpaidnotjusttoingredientsandtheirsourcingbutalsototheirpreparation(seeAyurveda).YouhardlyeverseethewonderfulrangeofvegetablesusedinanIndianhomeonarestaurantmenu.Eaterieswilloftenover-spice,over-saltandover-greasetheirdishestomakethemtastegoodbutthisisnothealthyinthelongrun.Homefoodisgenerallyfresherandlighterintaste.
AnIndianhome-cookedmealissuitablefortheentirefamily,includingchildrenandolderrelatives.Thereforemostofit,exceptinsomeregionsthatrelyheavilyontheuseofchillies,ismoderatelyspiced.Onthetableyouwillfindasmallselectionofpicklesandchutneys–somehot,otherssweet–thatareusedtopersonalisethemealandmakeithotterorsweeter.Plain,coolingyogurtalsofeaturesinmostregionalmeals.ItisacompletemyththatallIndianfoodissearinghot.
Indianfoodisnotgenerallydividedintocourses.Everythingisservedatthesametimesothatthemealisanexcitingkaleidoscopeofcolour,texture,temperatureandtaste.Poppadums,sotypicallyproducedatthestartofamealinmostrestaurantsaroundtheworld,provideaninterestingcontrastoftextureandtasteinanIndianhome-cookedmeal.Mostrestaurantswillagreethattheybecomea‘firstcourse’tokeeptheguestbusywhilethemealisbeingprepared!
WhenyoueatinanIndianhome,youwillbetoldthatthereis,forexample,chickencurryordalfordinner.Noonesays‘wearehavingchickentikkamasalafordinner’.Generalnamesareenoughtogivethefamilyanideaofwhattoexpectatthetablebecauserecipesthathavebeenusedforyearswillbefamiliar.Restaurants,ontheotherhand,havenamesfordishesthatarequitespectacularintheirrichness(‘ShahiMalaiPaneer’–RoyalCreamyPaneerCheese)andatso
intheirrichness(‘ShahiMalaiPaneer’–RoyalCreamyPaneerCheese)andatsomanyrestaurantsandtakeawaysintheWest,theclassificationofcurriesisbasedonthelevelofheat.A‘Korma’issupposedlymild,a‘Madras’ismoderateanda‘Vindaloo’isfieryhot.Thisdistinctionneithertakesintoaccountregionalinfluencesnorcoreingredients.ThisisafusionBritishRajcuisinewhereingredientsandcookingstylescombineinahaphazardmannertocreateastylethathas,thankfully,notpermeatedintoIndianhomesorindeedintorestaurantsinIndia.
MEALSINANINDIANHOMEThekitcheninanIndianhomeisabusyone.Variousmealsoringredientssuchasspiceblendsarepreparedthroughouttheday.Intheinterestofhygieneintheblazingtropicalheat,Indianspreferpipinghotfoodovercoldanddon’tlikeeatingleftovers,sofreshfoodiscookedonadailybasis.
Breakfast→Thekitchenopenswiththemakingoftea,popularincentralornorthernIndia,orcoffee,usuallyinsouthIndia.Inlargercities,peoplemayrushofftoworkafterabreakfastoftoastandeggsbutinmostplaces,themaincook,whoisoftentheladyofthehouse,willmakeafresh,hotregionalbreakfast.Inthesouth,thiscouldbelentilandricepancakescalled‘dosa’,inMaharashtraitcouldbesavouryflakedricecalled‘Poha’andinPunjabitcouldbeaparatha.
Lunch→ManypeopleinIndia,includingschool-goingchildrenandofficeworkers,carryapackedlunchwiththem.Thisisoftenroti,avegetableormeatcurry,avegetablesidedishandyogurt,allofwhichhavebeenfreshlycookedthatmorningandcanlastinthetropicalheatofIndia.InMumbai,auniquelunchboxdeliverysystemdevelopedin1890hasgrowntobecomeagodsendforthosewhoprefertheirdaytimemealsentfromhome,fortasteandhygienereasons.Thousandsoflunchboxesarecollectedfromhomeseachmorninganddeliveredtoworkplacesbymiddayusingacodingsystemunderstoodonlybythedeliverymen.Growingup,Ihadahot,freshmealbroughttomyschooleverydaybyourhomecook.Ididn’treallythinkmuchofitthenbutwhatwouldn’tIgivetohavethatluxuryinLondontoday!
Dinner→Thisiswhenthefamilyeatstogetherandthemealconsistsofriceor
someformofIndianbreadsuchasrotiorparatha,curriesandsidedishes,alwaysaccompaniedbyyogurt.Dessertsarenoteateneveryday,insteadapieceoffruitsuchasaseasonalmangoorthemorereadilyavailableandcheaperbananawillbeserved.DinnerinanIndianhomeisservedlaterthanintheWest.Asdaysarelongerformostmonthsoftheyear,familiestendtoeatatabout8pm,aftermembershavereturnedfromworkandschool.
SAMPLEMENUS
SouthIndianbreakfast
Dosa(fermentedlentilandricepancakes)Sambhar(spicedlentilswithvegetables)
CoconutChutneyCoffee
Gujaratilunch
RiceDalwithtamarindandcoriander
KobiVatanaNuShak(spicedcabbageandpeasstir-fry)Khandvi(softgramflourrolls)
Yogurt
Punjabidinner
RotiChickenCurry
Rajma(redkidneybeancurry)AlooGobi(potatoeswithcauliflower)
CucumberRaita(yogurtwithcucumber)
COOKINGFORCHILDRENPeopleoftenaskmeabouthowtointroduceIndianfoods(cooking)tochildren.It’sworthbearinginmindthatchildreninIndiaarebroughtupeatingIndian
It’sworthbearinginmindthatchildreninIndiaarebroughtupeatingIndianfood,andspicesareintroducedquiteearly.Alightteamadewithfennelseedsisfedtobabiesasyoungasafewmonthsold.Soft-cookedriceisapopularweaningfoodandyogurtismixedintothisfromwhenthebabyis8–9monthsold.Childrenalwaysindicatewhentheyarereadytomoveontothenextstageofdietorskill.Ifedmydaughter,amongstotherblandfoods,agentlemixofriceandyogurtuntilonedaywhenshewasjustoverayearold,Itriedalittlemildlyspicedchickencurry.Sheloveditandhaseatenspicedfoodeversince.
IneveryIndianhome,childrenareofferedmilddishesfromwhateverhasbeencookedforthefamily.Asitis,homecookinginmostpartsofIndiaisnotveryhot.Therearenospecial‘children’smeals’.Forexample,ifthefamilyiseatingrice,aspicyfishcurry,amilddalandamildcauliflowersidedish,thechildwillbefedeverythingexceptthefishcurryandmayevenbeintroducedtoabitoffishwithoutthespicysauce.
Inmyexperience,itisagoodideatointroduceyoungchildrenearlytoavarietyoffoodsaspartofanaturalwayoffamilyeating.Childrenasyoungastwoenjoyrotisandastheygetolderwillbehappytohelpcookthem.Dosasorriceandlentilpancakes,idlis(steamedricecakes),breads,rice,mildcurriesandvegetablesareallsuitableforchildren.Cumin,corianderandturmericaremildspicesandcanbeaddedtochildren’smealsforflavourratherthanforheat.
VEGETARIANISMAlmost85percentofIndiansareHinduandmanyarevegetarianallorsomeofthetimeduetoreligiousreasons.Religiousabstinencefromnon-vegetarianfoodssuchasmeat,poultry,fishandeveneggsiscommonalloverthecountry.However,notallHindusarevegetarian,ascasteandcommunityalsoaffectsthischoice.Mostnon-vegetarianswilleatmeatorfishafewtimesaweekorjustonceaweek,firstlybecauseitisexpensiveandsecondlybecausethechoiceofvegetables,lentils,beansanddairyproductsissovastthatthereisaseeminglyendlessvariety.Vegetarianfoodisalsoconsideredhealthierthanmeatbecauseitiseasiertodigest.Fewpeopletodaybelievethatavegetariandietislackinginprotein;infact,theyogurtandbeansthatareanessentialpartofthisdietareanextremelygoodsourceofprotein.
Indiaiswell-knownforitstraditionofvegetarianism,whichhasahistorygoingbackalmosttwomillennia.DuringtheVedicperiod,almost5,000yearsago,animalswerehuntedforfoodandmeatwaseatenregularlybythewarriorcommunityofKshatriyas.Theanti-meat-eatingsentimentbegantobefeltattheendoftheVedicperiod.ThisperiodcoincidedwiththeriseofBuddhismandJainism,whosefounderstheBuddhaandLordMahavirarespectively,taughttheirfollowersthedoctrinesofnon-violence.Asmoreandmorepeoplebegantoconverttothesenewerbeliefs,Hindupriests,fearingthatagreatnumberoftheirpeoplewouldconvert,alsobeganpreachingagainstthekillingofanimals.Theyadoptedthepracticeof‘ahimsa’ornon-violenceandfollowedavegetariandiet,regardingit,aswellasadvertisingit,assuperiortotheolderBrahminicalideasofanimalsacrifice.Today,almostathirdofIndiaisvegetarianandmostofthesepeopleareHinduandJain.MostBuddhistsinIndiaeatmeatinthebeliefthatthisisallowedaslongastheyhavenotparticipatedinthekillingoftheanimal.
TheavailabilityofingredientsaswellasIndiansmigratingandtakingtheirfoodwiththemaroundtheworldhasmeantthatIndianvegetarianfoodismorepopularnowthaneverbefore.
Quantities,IngredientsandStandardisation
ItisoftenamusingtochefsnotofIndianoriginthatattheheartofthiscuisinethereisnoconceptofstandardisation!AskanIndiancookforarecipeandyouwillheartheword‘andaaz’–whichroughlymeansintuitiveapproximation.MostIndiancooksrelyontheirsenseofsight,smellandhearingtodecidewhattoputinthepanorwhenthedishisperfectlycooked.Havingsaidthat,quantitiesandproportionarevitalwhenlearningtocookanditcantakeyearstoperfectthisintuitive‘andaaz’!
Thenamesofrecipesarealsovagueenoughthatacookcaninterprettheminwhicheverwayheorshelikes–keepingtrue,ofcourse,totheingredientsandtechniquesoftheregion.‘SaagAloo’literallymeansaleafyvegetableandpotatoes.WeknowthatitisanorthIndiandishbecausethenameisinHindiandthereforethestyleofcooking(startingwiththefryingofonions)andingredientsused(acombinationofonions,ginger,tomatoesandchillies)willbeinthenorthernstyle.Thesamecombinationofvegetablesmaybecalled‘PalakBatatanuShak’inGujarat,inwesternIndia,andhavemustardseeds,greenchillies,gingerandevenabitofsugar.Thisshowsthedifferentpossibilitiesofinterpretingthesamedish.
DuetothefactthatnotonlyregionaldiversitybutalsopersonalvariationsinfluencethecookinginanIndianhome,thereisnosingle‘correct’recipeforaparticulardish.MyfriendsfromtheSindhicommunitymakeatantalisingcurryusinggramflourasthebaseforaselectionofvegetables.IhavebeengivenatleastsixdifferentrecipesforthesamedishandhavecometorealisethatmyownversionisbasedonarrivingatthetastethatIpreferofalltheonesIhaveeaten.Thismeans,again,thatmanyIndiancookswillusearecipecreatedinordertoachieveaparticularresult,knowingfullwellthatseveralinterpretations,allprobablycorrect,willexist.
Itisalsoimportanttobearinmindthatingredientshavechangedoverthelastfewdecades.InsomeWesterncountrieswherethecoldweatherdoesnotpermittheadequateripeningofvegetablesthroughouttheyear,traditionallyusedIndianingredientshavetobeadapted.IusetomatopuréeinmanyofmyrecipesasitisreadilyavailableintheWestandcanprovideaninstantdepthofflavour.I
findthatitprovidestheintensityofcolourandflavourthatI’mtryingtoachieve,especiallyintheUKwheretomatoestendtobetoowatery.
Timeconstraints,thelackoftherightequipmentandtheavailabilityofpreparedingredientsalsoinfluencehowwecook.Forexample,inmanyhomesinsouthernIndia,freshcoconutsarecrackedopenandshreddedonacoconutscrapereverysingledaytouseincurriesorasagarnish.IntheWest,ifacurrycallsforcoconutthiswouldbetediouswithoutascraper(alongsharpbladewithaserrateddiscattachedtooneend)andlackofpractice.Ihavethereforesubstitutedfreshcoconutwithreadilyavailabledesiccatedcoconutwhereverpossible,usedinthedryformorreconstitutedbysoakingitinwarmwaterfor20minutesorso.
Inthisbook,Ihavewrittenrecipesforfourpeople.Ifyouneedtodoubletherecipe,itisworthnotingthatyouDONOTdoublethespicesasthiswouldmakethedishtoostronglyflavoured.Itendtouseoneandahalftimesthespices.Iftherecipeistobequadrupled,thendoublethespices,bearinginmindthatyoucanalwaysaddabitofspiceattheendofcookingifthedishistoobland(chillipowderorgarammasala)orpale(turmericorchillipowder)andbringeverythinguptotheboiltocookthespices.
CulinaryTermsandTechniques
GoodingredientsandspicesareattheheartofIndiancookingbuttherighttechniquesarerequiredtomakethemcomealiveinaflashoftasteandtexture.ConsideringthatIndiahashundredsoflanguages,thislistofculinarytermscouldbeendless!IhaveusedHinditermsforthemostpart,asitisthemostwidelyspokenIndianlanguageinIndia.
DUMDumliterallymeanssteam.Itisatechniquewhereapotissealedwithdoughmadefromchapattiflour(atta)andwater.Atight-fittinglidensuresthatnosteamcanescapeandalltheflavourisretainedinthedish.Often,thisdishwouldbeplacedoncoalsandslow-cookedforafewhours.Hotcoalswouldalsobeplacedonthelidsothatheatwasprovidedfromaboveaswellasfrombelow.
Theingredientswouldbepartiallycookedthensealedsothattheybecametenderandthefatrosetothetop.Thiswasconsideredappetisingbycooksofbygoneyearsbutmoderntastesaremovingtowardslighter,lessoilyfood.
Inmodernkitchens,thistechniquecanbeachievedintheoven,whichprovidesevenheat,wherebyadishissealedwithdoughorwithseverallayersoffoil.RecipesforDumBiryanisandsomecurriesarecookedthisway.
BAGHAR/TADKA/CHOWNKThereareseveralIndianwordsforthisessentialprocedureoftemperingfoods.Spicesoringredientssuchasonions,garlic,gingerorchilliesarecookedinhotoiltoextractanddeveloptheirflavour.Temperingcanbedoneatthebeginningofcooking,whereforexample,spicesandonionsarecookedbeforeaddingcookedlentilstomakeTarkaDal,orattheendwhen,forexample,cuminseedsmaybefriedinoilandpouredoveracurry.Theoilcontainsthearomaticoilsextractedfromthespicesandbecomes‘flavoured’itself.
BHUNAThisisaprocessofsautéingorstir-frying,usuallyinsomefat,overahighheatthatisreducedtomediumwhentheingredienthasstartedtosoftenorbrown.Itisdoneatseveralstagesofthecookingprocessandsometimesalittleliquid–water,yogurtortomato,forinstance–isaddedtopreventingredientssuchasspicesfromsticking.Tostart,theonions,ginger,garlic,etc.,arestir-frieduntiltheyarewelldone.Next,themainingredientsuchasmeatorvegetablesisstir-frieduntilitissealedorpartiallycooked.Meatforacurryisnotbrownedinbatchesasthiscancreatealayerthatpreventsthespiceflavoursfullypermeatingit.Sealingitbybhunaensuresthatthejuicesgetlockedinbutthespicesthoroughlyflavourthemeat.
Afterthestir-fryingstage,liquidisaddedtofinishoffthecookingandcreateasauce.IntheWest,manyIndiantakeawayssella‘bhuna’whichhascometomeanameatdishwithlittlesaucethatismedium-hottospicy,althoughitscookingdoesbeginwiththis‘bhuna’method.
TipsforTadka
1Althoughmanycooksclaimthattheoilhastobesmokinghotforatadkatowork,Iencouragepeopletosimplywarmtheoiloverahighheatbeforeaddingspiceseeds.Thisgivesyoucontrolasyouwatchthempoporsizzle,changecolouranddevelopanaroma.Italsoreducesthelikelihoodofthemburningbutiftheydo,youwillhavetodiscardthemandstartagain.2Makesurethatyouhaveallyouringredientsprepared.Oilcancomeuptotemperaturequitequickly,dependingonthesource,sokeepspices,choppedonions,garlicandgingernexttothehob.3Ingredientsareaddedinsuccession,dependingonthetimetheytaketocook.Spiceseedsgoinfirst,thenonionsandlastlytomatoes.4Pourthetemperingalongwiththeoilorgheeoverfinisheddishesforextraflavourorwherethemaindishisnotcooked(sometimessaladsarefinishedwithawarmtemperingofspiceseeds).
DHUNGARThisisastovetopsmokingmethodthatispopularinnorthIndianAwadhicookery.
YOUWILLNEED:asmallmetalbowlasmallpieceofcoal
1teaspoongheeoroil
1Placeasmallmetalbowlinthecentreofthepanwhichholdsyourcookedfood,forexampleacurry,dalorkebabs.
2Lightthecoalandwhentheinitialthicksmokehasdiedawayandthecoalhasturnedgrey,placeitinthebowl.
3Pourthegheeoverthecoal.Coverthepanwithatight-fittinglidandsealfor2–3minutes.Thelongeryouleaveit,thesmokieryourfoodwillbe,butI’dsuggestamaximumof10minutes.
4Liftthelid,removethebowlofcoalandservethecurry,dalorkebabsimmediately.
TALNAThisisadeep-orshallow-fryingtechnique,usuallydoneinakarahi,aheavy,wok-shapedmetallicpan.
Tofryevenly,heattheoiluntilapieceofwhatistobefried(perhapsasliceofonionoradropofbatter)canbeaddedtotheoilanditcooksquickly.Adropofbatterwillrisetothetopinafewseconds.Heatregulationiscriticalduringfrying,asfoodsneedtocookevenly,especiallyinthemiddle,withoutburningonthesurface.Forthis,startoffatahighheatthen,whenthefoodhassealedandstartedtocolour,reducetheheattomediumuntiltherightcolourhasbeenachieved.
CONDENSATIONWhencookingdrydishes,especiallyvegetables,acleverbutsimplecondensationtechniqueisusedinIndianhomekitchens.Thiseliminatestheneedforaddingcookingliquidtothepanwhichcandiluteflavourandchangetheconsistencyofthedish.
changetheconsistencyofthedish.Placeaconvexlidonthepanandfillthelidwithafewtablespoonsof
coldwater.Asthevegetablesheatup,thesaltintherecipedrawsouttheirjuiceswhichriseupassteam.Thissteamhitstheinsideofthelid,condensesandfallsbackintothepanprovidingabitofmoisture.
BOTIANDTIKKABothofthesetermsareusedforcutsofmeatorpoultry.Botigenerallyreferstodicedlegmeat,whichisthedarkerincolourinbirds,andtikkaisdicedbreast.Youwillfindthattikkaisusuallyassociatedwithchickenandbotiwithlambormutton.Sometimesrestaurantswillusethesetermsloosely,variouslycallingdiced,spiced,grilledmeat,poultryorpaneercheese,boti,tikkaorkebab.
MASALAThisisageneraltermtomeanspice,aspiceblendoraspicedcurrypaste.Whenacurrypasteismadefromfreshingredients,suchascorianderleavesoronionsblendedwithwater,vinegar,coconutmilketc.,itiscalledawetmasala.
Anexampleofadrymasalaistheeverpopularspiceblendgarammasala.The‘currypowder’soldintheWestisnotusedbyIndiancooks–itwasaBritishRajcreationtolooselyreplicateIndianflavours.EachregionofIndia,indeedeverycommunity,hasitsownspiceblendandassuchtherearehundredsof‘currypowders’,eachdistinctandunique,withspecificnamessuchasthesouthern‘sambharpowder’madefromspicessuchaschilliandfenugreekor‘godamasala’madefromcinnamon,poppyseedsandcoconutinMaharashtra.Recipesarepasseddownthegenerations,witheachcookmakingslightchangesaccordingtotheirowntaste.
MUGHLAICOOKERYThisisastyleofcookingdevelopedintheimperialkitchensofIndia’sMuslimrulersoftheMughaldynasty.TheyruledfromDelhiandhaveinfluencedthecookeryofnorthIndia.Recipesarerichwithnuts,cream,driedfruitandspices.Meatandpoultryarethestarshere,aswellasmilkysweetsflavouredwithsaffronandnuts.
CURRYThewordcurrycomesfromtheTamilword‘kari’whichmeanssauceorvegetabledish.ToanIndian,curryisadishthathasgravybuttothosenottoofamiliarwiththecuisine,anysavourydishthatiscookedwithspicesorcurrypowder,whetherithasasauceornot,iscurry.Ihaveheardpeoplerefertosamosasascurry!
CONSISTENCY→Agoodcurryshouldhavetherightconsistency.Isittoothickortoowatery?Somecurriesaremeanttobethickerthanothersbuttheymustalwaysbemoistenoughtoactasasauceforthecarbohydratedishessuchasriceorbread.Somefoods,suchaslentils,thickenuponkeeping.Loosenthemupwithasplashofwaterbeforeserving.Ifyourcurryistoothin,youcanthickenitwithapasteoffriedonionsorgroundnuts,suchascashewsoralmonds,orwithtomatopurée.
COLOUR→Turmeric,chillies,tamarindandfreshcorianderaresomeoftheingredientsthataddcolourtoacurry.Theseaddflavourandaromaaswell.Generallycurriescanbewhite(asinaKashmiriyogurt-basedyakhni),red(asinamakhani),yellow(asinmanykormas)andgreen(asinasouthIndiannilgiri).
OILS→Theoilusedalsovariesfromregiontoregion,givingeachcurryauniquefragrance.Manypartsofthesouthusepeanutoilorcoconutoil.InBengal,itismustardoil.Overmostofthecountrymiddle-classhouseholdsusevegetableorsunfloweroil.Gheeisalsousedbutisincreasinglyreservedforfestivedishesanddesserts.Gheeisconsiderednutritiousifeateninmoderationbutitisbestmadeathomefrommilkthatcomesfromgrass-fedcows.
Mostrecipescanbecookedinsunflower,vegetable,cornorrapeseedoil,allofwhichcanbeheateduptothehightemperaturerequiredbymostIndiancooking.
Curriesaremadeinsteps,almostlikebuildingblocks.Theblockscanbemoved
Curriesaremadeinsteps,almostlikebuildingblocks.Theblockscanbemovedaroundandrearrangedincountlesswaystogivepersonalisedrecipes.
HOWTOMAKEABASICCURRY
ManyIndiancurriesbeginwithonions.Somerecipesneedslicedonesandothersrequirethemtobefinelydiced.Indianonionsarewhite,pinkorpurpleandrangefromsmalltothesizeofatennisball.TherearealsothesmallpearlonionsthatareusedinsouthIndian‘sambhar’orlentils.MostnorthIndiancurriesbeginwiththefryingofonions.TheonionsusedinmostIndianrecipescanbesubstitutedwithSpanishonionsintheWest.Thesearemildandjuicyandaddbulkaswellasmoisture.
ONIONSThefirststepistocutallyouringredientsevenly–thiswillensureevencooking.Peelingorchoppingonionsisnevereasy.Inmycookeryclasses,thisisthetaskthatdrawsthemostmoansfromparticipantsbecauseIndiancookeryseemstoneedsomanyonions!Ihavefoundthatthebestwaytolessenthecryingistoputonionsinthefridgeforalittlewhilebeforechoppingthem.Thisseemstostabilisethesulphuroils.Also,notdisturbingtheroottoomuchhelps–whileslicingonions,cutofftherootandwhiledicing,cutaroundit,discardingsomeoftheflesharoundit.Whenslicingonions,workalongthegrainorthefinelinesthatyouseeontheonion.Thishelpstheslicestocookevenly.
Thesecretofmanycurriesistocooktheonionswellatthebeginning.Somecurriesneedtheonionstobeblendedintoapaste–Ihavefoundthatcookingtheonionsfirsthelpstobringouttheirflavourbetterthanblendingthemandthencookingthepaste.Ifyouwantcolourinyourcurry,theonionswillhavetobeshallow-fried.Startthemoverahighheat,sprinklinginapinchofsalttohastenthecooking.Whentheybegintobrown,reduce
inapinchofsalttohastenthecooking.Whentheybegintobrown,reducetheheattomediumandcontinuecookingfor7–8minutesuntiltheyareverysoftandyoucaninsertaknifeintoapieceofonioneasily.Inrecipeswhereyoudonotwantcolour,theslicedonionscanbeboiledinjustenoughwatertocoverthem.
Whentheonionsarenottobepuréed,cookthemuntilsoftbutnotaslongasabovebecausetheywillcontinuecookingwiththerestoftheingredients.
Itisbesttostoreonionsinacool,dry,ventilatedplace,asanymoisturewillcausethemtorot.
GARLICThegarliconeseesintheWestisanorientalvarietycalledelephantgarlic,whichislargerandmilderthanthesmallvarietysoldinIndia.ThisiswhycurriesintheWestaresometimesnotasintenseastheonesinIndia.However,thisisnotabadthing–foodsinthetropicsneedtobemuchhigherinflavourtocounteracttheheat.Thisisalsoaddressedbyaddingmoresalttofoodinhotcountries.Garlichasanunmistakableandpungentaroma.Ithasaflavourthatismuchstrongerthanthatofonion.Thescenthasanundertoneofsulphur,whichiseitherlovedorhated,assomepeoplefinditslingeringsmelldistasteful.Thetastecanbequitesharpandbitingandcanincreasetheheatofadish,sodotakethisintoaccountwhenaddingtheotherspices.
InIndiagarlicisusedincurries,marinades,chutneys,vegetabledishes,barbecuedmeats,picklesandcountlessotherpreparations.Eachgarliccloveisfirstpeeled,andthenthefleshcanbechopped,gratedormadeintopaste.Garliccanbeeatenraworcooked;whenfryingmakesurethattheoilisnottoohotorthegarlicwillburnandtasteacrid.Afewgarliccloves,roughlybruised,friedinalittlehotoilandpouredintoacurrycangiveitareallift.
GINGERGingerisoneofthemosthealingingredientsintheIndiankitchen.ItiswidelyavailableintheWestbutdependingonwherethegingerhasbeengrown,thetastewilldifferfromtheonegrowninIndia,whichisquiteintense.Chinesegingerismorewateryandthereforeweakerinflavour.Gingerteaissaidtosoothecoldsandcoughs,isanti-inflammatoryand
Gingerteaissaidtosoothecoldsandcoughs,isanti-inflammatoryandstopsmotionsickness.Themosthealingpartofgingerliesjustbeneathitsskin.Choosepale,smooth,shinygingerthatcanbescrapedeasily.Ratherthanpeelingginger,whichwillalmostcertainlytakeawaythathealinglayer,scrapethetopskinoffwithasmallknifeorateaspoon.
GINGER-GARLICPASTE
Thenextstepmaywellbeaddingthegingerandgarlic.Youcanaddchoppedgingerandgarlicifthemixtureisgoingtobeblitzed,orusepasteifyoualreadyhavesomeinthefridge.Garlicandgingercomplementeachotherandareoftenusedtogether.
1partginger,scrapedandchopped2partsgarlic,chopped(byvolume)
1Combinethegingerandgarlic.Ifmakingasmallamount,youcangratebothorcrushtheminamortarandpestle.Youdon’tneedtodiscardthegreen‘soul’fromthecentreofthegarlic;itisedibleandanybitternessithaswilladdtothebalanceofflavoursintheentiredish.2Ifmakingalargeramount,blitzthepeeledandchoppedgingerandgarlicinablenderalongwithalittlewatertoturnthebladesandmakeasmoothpurée.3Youcanstorethispasteinthefridgeorfreezer.Putitintoacleanjar,topitupwithoil(anycookingoil)andputitinthefridge.Youcanusethisforupto3weeks.Youwillfindthattheoillayermaydecreasewitheachscoopofpasteused–justtopupasnecessary.4Tofreezethepaste,eitherputitintoice-cubetrays,coveritwithclingfilmandstorefor3monthsorputitintoafreezerbag,laythisonametaltrayandfreezeitflat.Itbecomesquitebrittleandyoucanbreakoffasmuchasyouneedforeachrecipe.Whileginger-garliccubesneedthawing,thebitsbrokenofffromaflatsheetcanbeaddeddirectlytothepan.
TOMATOESOften,anorthIndiancurrywillhavetomatoes.InseasonyoucanusefreshonesbutinmanyrecipeswhereIrequiredepthandcolour,Iusetomatopuréeorcannedtomatoes.Indiantomatoesarebrighterredandmoreintenseintastesoinmanyofmyrecipes,Ihaveusedtomatopuréetorecreatethisdepthofcolourandflavour.
BLENDINGThemixturecanthenbeblitzedinablendertomakeacurrypaste.Youwillneedtoaddwatertohelpturntheblades–beginbyaddingjustenoughto
needtoaddwatertohelpturntheblades–beginbyaddingjustenoughtocoverthemixture.Pourinmorewater,alittleatatime,untilyougetasmoothpurée.
SALTMyrecipesdon’tgivetheamountofsaltneededasindividualtastesvary.Youwillneedtosaltyourfoodasitisessentialtocreateabalanceofthesixtastes.Ifyoufindthatsomethingismissinginthefinaldish,anditdoesnottastequitefinished,itisprobablysaltandnotmorespices.Usegood-qualityseasaltandyou’llfindthatitisnoteasytoexceedrecommendeddailyallowancesifyoucookyourfoodfromscratch.Itisthesaltinprocessedfoodsthatistherealhiddendanger.
Planningameal
GiventhattherepertoireofIndiancookingissovastandthatregionaldifferencesmakechoosingverydifficult,keepingthemealsimpleisvital.InmanyIndianhomesaneverydaymealhas3–4dishesincludingriceand/orchapattis,ameatorvegetablecurryandlentilsthatareservedwithyogurt,saladandpickle.InIndianhomesoutsideofIndia,mealstendtobesimplerasfamiliesaresmallerandthereisnohouseholdhelp.
Aneasywaytoplanamealistothinkofthefoodgroups,taste,colour,textureandtemperature.
FOODGROUPS
Beginbychoosingariceand/orabread.Indianswillcommonlyhaveplainboiledriceasitactsasaneutralbackdropfortheflavourinalltheotherdishes.Addaproteinsuchasachicken,fishormeatcurryorchooseavegetarianlentil,bean,pulseordairyone.
Asaladorvegetablesidedishwilladdfibre.
Taste→Abalancedmealshouldhaveallthesixtastes.AnIndianhomemealisnotalwaysspicyhot–thisdependsontheregion–butisgenerallysuitableforthechildrenandeldersofthehouse.Arangeofpicklesandrelishesisservedwiththemealsothatdinerscanpersonalisetheirmeal.
Colour→Anattractiveplateshouldbecolourfulandhealthy.Bringincolourwithfreshvegetablesandspices.Itiseasytoaddagoldenhuetoricebyaddingapinchofturmericortoaddafreshgreensaladtoacurryandricemeal.
Texture→Bringincontrastssuchasgrainy,smooth,chewyorcrisp.AnIndianmealdoesnothavecoursesandeachcomponentaddsadifferenttexturetocreateinterestwitheachmouthful.Poppadumsareservedaspartofthemainmealtoaddacrispelement.
Temperature→MostIndianmealsareservedhot.However,yogurtinsomeformisalsoservedineverypartofthecountry.Thisaddsatemperaturevariation,coolsthepalateandaidsdigestion.Inthesouth,amealendswithsomeyogurtandricewhereasinthenorth,yogurtflavouredwithspicesaddsacoolcontrast.Indianspreferhomemadeyogurtandsetapotofitdailyusingtheliveculturesfromthepreviouspot.
WHATTODRINKWITHAMEALAlmosteveryIndianhomewillservewaterwithameal.Alcoholisnotwidelyconsumedandifitis,itwillbedrunkbeforethemealratherthanwithit.Indiahasawidevarietyofbeveragesmadeofyogurt,milk,herbs,spices,fruitandvegetablesbutthesearedrunkthroughthedaytoquenchthirstandtostaveoffthetropicalheatratherthanwithameal.
Sometimesamealmayendwithadigestivedrinksuchasbuttermilk.Teaor
coffeetofinishismoreofarestaurantconceptthansomethingyouwoulddseeinanIndianhome.
SomerestaurantsinIndia,andoutside,serveavarietyofbeersandwines,bothIndianandinternational.
MENUSFORENTERTAININGFestiveandpartymenuswilloftendemonstratehowmuchtimethecookhasspentinthekitchenbypresentingaspreadofupto20differentdishes.Specialingredientssuchasnuts,saffron,meat,poultry,fishorcreamwillalsofeaturebutthesheervarietythatiscookedmakesthemealspecial.Thefoodatweddingsissecondonlyinimportancetothebridalcoupleandeachfamilyvieswiththeothertoofferanincreasingnumberofexoticdishes.
FestivalsareassociatedwithcertainfoodsandeachHindugodhastheirownfavourite,whichiscookedontheirspecialday.TheHindugodGaneshlovescoconutandjaggerysweetscalled‘modak’andthesearemadeeachyearonlyduringtheGaneshfestival.
Religious‘fasts’areequallyimportant,althoughthisdoesnotalwaysmeanacompleteabstinencefromfood.Aspecial‘fasting’cuisinehasdevelopedwithdishesthatcanincludeingredientssuchaspotatoes,sago,nuts,fruitanddairy,allconsidered‘sattvik’orcalmingtothebodyandmind.
Equipment
Ifyouhavebeencookingforsometime,youwillprobablyhavealltheequipmentneededtomakeanIndianmeal.MostIndiancooksswearbycookingongasandalloverIndia,foodiscookedthiswayoronwoodorcoalfires,sokitchenequipmentisdesignedtosuittheseformsofcooking.
KnivesAsharpchef’sknifethatcanmincegarlic,finelysliceonionsorchopfreshcoriandertofineshredsisinvaluable.Makesuretokeepitsharpened.Asharpknifeismuchsaferthanabluntoneasyou’llusefarlesspressuretochopingredientsandthereforethereislessriskoftheknifeslippingandinjuringyou.
ChoppingboardsIusepolyethyleneplasticasitcangointothedishwasher,isnon-porousandthereforedoesnotholdontosmellssuchasonionorgarlic.Woodenboardsarelong-lastingbutwillneedregularsanitisingwithakitchen-safecleanerandproperdryingsothattheydonotbecomemouldy.Iknowthatsomecooksregularlyoiltheirwoodenboards.Glassormarblechoppingboardswilldullthebladeofyourknife.It’sagoodideatohaveasmallselectionofcolouredboards.Mykitchenhasgreenandbrownforvegetarianfoodpreparation,redforrawmeatandblueforrawfish.
UtensilsYou’llneedapeeler,grater,aspatulaandareasonablenumberofwoodenorsiliconespoons,someslottedandothersplain.Ladlesareusedtoscoopupcurriesandlentildishes.
MostIndianbreadsarerolledout,soyouwillneedarollingpin.AtraditionalIndianrollingpinisslimmerthanaWesternoneandcomeswitharoundrollingboardwhichactsasaguidetogetthechapattisroundasyourollthem.Thepinitselfistaperedandlightwhichallowsyoutoputjustenoughpressureandnottoomuch,dustingflourtorollthechapattiintoanevenshapewithoutmakingitsticktothesurface.
PansThepanyouusewillaffectthefinalconsistencyofyourdish.Ifyoucookacurryinafryingpan,therewillbemoreevaporationthaninasaucepanand
thereforeyouwillhaveathickersauceandmayneedtoaddabitofwaterduringcookingtopreventthefoodfromstickingtothebottomofthepan.Itendtouseafryingpanforrecipeswithshortercookingtimes–upto30minutes–orfor‘drier’dishessuchasstir-fries,andasaucepanforrecipeswithmeatorlentilsthattakelongerorthosethatarecookedinliquid,suchascurries.
Afewgoodfryingpanswillbeenough–Iusea30cmoneforacurryforfourpeopleandyou’llfindthata25cmonecanbeusedforsmallerportions.Alittle15cmpancanbeusedforthatall-importanttechniquecalled‘tadka’,wherespiceseedsarefriedinhotoilandpouredoverthemaindish.Indiankitchenshaveababykarahi,asmallroundbowlthatsitssafelyonagashob.
Goodnonstickpansworkwellforquickcookingandfor‘dry’dishessuchasvegetablestir-fried‘subji’andironskilletscanhelpsealandbrownfoodslikefishoronions.Lidsreducethecookingtimesoffoodsbysealingintheheatandalsoavoidevaporationofliquid.
Heavystainless-steelornonstick3-litresaucepanscanbeusedforcurries,ricedishesandlentils.Chooseonewithalidasthiscanincreasepressurewithinthepan,sealinjuicesotherwiselostbyevaporationandreducecookingtimes.
Blender/mortarandpestleInthedaysbeforeblenders,peopleusedgrindingstones.Theseareflatstoneslabswithaheavy,roundedgrindingstonethatarestillusedinsomepartsofIndia.Stonegroundcurrypastesaremoreconcentratedastheyuselesswatertoachieveaveryfinepuréethandoelectricblenders.Mostmodernkitchenswillhaveapowerfulelectricblenderandthesehavevariousattachmentsfordryandwetgrindingandcanpulverisethehardestspicestoafine,softpowderormakesmoothcurrypastes.Ifbuyingablender,chooseonethat’sover500Wasyou’llgetafinerproductasthewattagegoeshigher.Indianrestaurantsusuallyhave1000Wprofessionalblenders.
IfirmlybelievethatyoudonotneedtogrindupspiceseverytimeyoucookanIndianmeal.Itisfinetouseready-boughtspicesalthoughsome,suchasgroundcorianderorgarammasala,certainlylosetheirvigourveryquicklyandarebestgroundathome.
Somespicessuchasgarammasalacanbeeasilymadeinasmallelectricspicegrinder.Ihavealittleonewithapush-downtopthatblitzeswholespicesinafewseconds.Alternatively,useamortarandpestle.Whenbuyingone,bearin
mindthatitmustbeheavyandhardenoughtocrushtoughspiceseeds.Ifindthataceramiconeistoodelicateforrobustspicecrushing.Mykitchenhasthreepestleandmortars:asmall,antiquebrassonethatIuseforsmallquantitiesof‘sweet’ingredientssuchascardamomandpistachios;ashallow,roughwoodenonetopounddryspices,andalarge,deepgraniteonefor‘wet’grinding,suchasmakingginger-garlicorgreenchillipasteorforpulverisingherbsandfriedspicemixes.Bashingawaywithapestleandmortarisoneofthemosttherapeutictasksinakitchen!ManyIndiancookstrulybelievethathand-crushedspicesandcurrypastestastefarbetterthanthosemadeinelectricmachinesandIthinkthatahappyblendofbothtechniqueswillachieveagoodflavourwithanefficientuseoftimeandenergy!
Somepeopleuseacoffeegrindertogrindsmallquantitiesofspicesveryeffectively.However,remembertowashitwellafteruseoryoumightendupwithspice-flavouredcoffeethenexttimeyouuseyourmachine.Anotherwaytocrushtoastedspiceseedsistoputthembetweensheetsofgreaseproofpapertostopthemfromflyingaboutandrolloverthemwitharollingpin.IalwayshaveapeppermilloftoastedgarammasalaspicesthatIcanfreshlycrushovercurries.
Evenifyourkitcheniswellstockedwithmostoftheabove,it’susefultoknowabout,andexcitingtoown,somespecialisedortraditionalIndianequipment.
SpicetinInallmyyearsofteachingcookery,Ihavecomeacrosssomanywaysinwhichpeoplestoretheirspices.Ihaveathree-waysystematmycookeryschool(Ibuylargebags,thendecantintojarsandthenintomyspicetin)butmostIndianhomescangetbyverywellwithatwo-tierprocessiftheybuysmallquantities.
Firstly,onebuysthepackofspices(formoreonspices).Thesearedecantedintoaspicebox,whichtypicallyhassevencompartments.EveryIndianhomehasthisspiceboxor‘masaladabba’–it’smostoftenround,madeofstainlesssteelandhassmallbowlsthatfitsnuglyinside.Someboxeshaveadoublelidtosealinthefreshness.Inmyschool,bulkbuyingofspicesmeansthatIstorelargerpacksinmyspicecupboard.ThesearedecantedintosmallcontainerswhicharestoredinmyhandykitchencupboardandfromwhereIdecantthemintomy‘masaladabba’acoupleoftimeseachweek.
Iliketobelievethatasaneverydayspiceboxhassevencompartments,onesurelymustnotneedtousemorethansevenspicesforone’sdailycooking!
surelymustnotneedtousemorethansevenspicesforone’sdailycooking!Interestingly,thesevenspicesinthetinmayvaryfromoneregionofIndiatoanotherbutafewkeyspicessuchasturmeric,chilli,cuminandcorianderremainthesamethroughoutthecountry.
Kadhai/karahiThislookssomewhatsimilartoawokbutismadeofathickermaterial,hasaroundbottomandcomeswithtwosmallhandlesornone.Itisalsoheavier,makingitmorestableonthehob.Itistypicallysoldwithapairoftongscalled‘chimta’or‘pakkad’.Thetongs,heldinonehand,helptosteadythekarahiasonestirswiththeotherhand.Onecanthenliftthekarahiwiththetongs,butthisneedsatightgripandlotsofpractice!Akarahiwilloftencomeasasetwithalid.
Karahisareusuallymadeofstainlesssteel,aluminiumoranalloyofmixedmetalsandcomeinvaryingsizes.Itisalsopossibletofindnonstickonesbuttheseneedtobeusedwithcareastheycangetscratchedwithabrasiveutensils.Iusea35cm(diameter)karahiforacurryforfouralthoughIhaveahugesetofkarahisinvaryingsizesallstackedupinmykitchendrawer.Thebestthingaboutmypansisthattheyget‘seasoned’witheveryuse,makingthemvirtuallynonstick,andtheyaredishwashersafe.ManyrestaurantsservedisheslikeKarahiPaneerorBaltiChickenwhichhavebeencookedinsuchadish.ThelargestkarahisIhaveseenareatAmberFortinRajasthanandeachonecansafelyhold5–6people!Youwouldneedaladdertoclimbintoitthough…
Karahisareusedforfryingastheconvexshapeallowstheoiltopoolatthebottom,thususingmuchlessoilthanonewouldneedinafryingpan.InIndia,karahisusedforcookingmaysometimesdoubleupasservingdishesbuttheoppositeneverhappens.Oftenmadeofburnishedcopper,brassorsilver,tablewarekarahisaretoolightforhobuse.Smallerinsizeorforfamily-styleservice,theymayhaveflattenedbottomstositsecurelyonatable.
PressurecookerIcannotvouchfortheseenough.Theycutdownoncookingtimesandareveryfuelefficient,too.Bestofall,theysealinnutrientsandretainthejuicesinthefood.ManyWesterncookshavesaidtomethattheyarefrightenedofpressurecookersblowingupbuthonestlyspeaking,modernonesaremuchsaferthantheonesthatwereused40–50yearsago.Therearetwotypesofpressurecooker:thewhistlingoneandsteam-releasetype.Indiancooksusethewhistlingpressurecookerandit’snotuncommontofindrecipesthataskyoutocookacurryfor3–4whistles.
PressurecookerscomeinvarioussizesandIhaveaboutfiveinmykitchen–smallonesforeverydaycookingandthelargestoneforentertaining.Thereisnorealsubstituteforapressurecooker.MostIndianhomeshaveatleastoneanditisusedforcookingmeats,lentils,potatoesandevenrice.Withoutapressurecooker,thesamecurrycantaketwoorthreetimestheamountoftimetocook.
CoconutscraperInIndia,wherecoconutinspiresthecuisineofmanystates,and
especiallyinsouthernIndia,acoconutscraperisfoundinthemajorityofhomes.Thisisaflat,woodenbasetowhichasickle-shapedbladeisattached(seephotobelow).Thishasaserratedfanattheend,whichisusedtoscrapeoutthewhitefleshfromthecoconutshell.Thebladeisusedtochopmeatandvegetables.Thewholedeviceisplacedonthefloorandonehastositontheplinthtouseit.Moderncoconutscraperscanbefixedtothekitchencounter,lockedintoplaceandstoredawayafteruse.Coconutcanalsobeeffectivelygratedinafoodprocessorafterbreakingopentheshellandprisingawaythefleshwithasmall,sharpknife.
TavaAtavaortawaisaflatorslightlycurvedgriddleforcookingchapattis/rotisorotherbreadson.Sometimesvegetablesormeatsarealsocookedonatavaandarecalled‘tavafry’–thesearepopularatIndianweddingswheretavasaslargeas3–4feetindiameteraresetuptoserveover1,000guests!
Indiankitchensoftenhaveanirontava,whichwhenseasonedandusedcorrectlycanlastalifetime.InIndia,this‘seasoning’happensthroughregularuse.IntheWestwherethetavamaynotbeusedafewtimesadayasitisinIndia,itmayneedtobe‘seasoned’tomakeitalmostnonstickandrustfree.Applyathincoatingofsunfloweroilandputthepaninanovenatthehighesttemperaturepossiblefor1hour.Removeandleaveittocool.Ifyoudonotuse
temperaturepossiblefor1hour.Removeandleaveittocool.Ifyoudonotuseyourpanonceeverycoupleofweeks,youwillhavetorepeatthisprocess.
AWesternsubstituteforatavaisa25cmnonstickfryingpanthatcancomfortablyholdaroti.
DegchiThisisaround,tall,thick-bottomedpanmostlymadeofaluminium,stainlesssteelorbrassthatisusedformakingdisheswithaliquidbasesuchascurries,dalsandmilk-basedpuddings.Adegchioftenhasalipforeaseofholdingandmovingfromthehobtothekitchencounteraftercookinghasfinished.A‘pakkad’isusedtoclaspthedegchiaroundthelip.Asaucepancaneasilyreplaceadegchi.
HandiAhandiisacircularpanorpotmadeofmetalorclaythathasacurved,saucer-likelid.Itisfairlythicktoallowlong,slowcooking.Aclayhandiisusedforone-potcookingwherealltheingredientsareplacedinitandgentlysautéedtosealthefoodandblendflavours.Enoughliquidisadded,thelidisthensealedwithathickdoughofflourandwaterandtheentirepotisplacedonawoodorcoalfire.Thelidcanbeusedtoplacehotcoalson.Thisiscalled‘dumpukht’,cookingmadepopularbytheNawabsofAwadhinnorthernIndiaandisstillusedinsomepartsofIndia.Restaurantsservingdumpukhtdishesinbigcities,suchasMumbaiandNewDelhi,aresoughtafterandattractdinerswhoarenotabletomakethiskindofsmokyfoodintheirurbankitchens.
IdlisteamerThispieceofequipmentisfoundinallsouthIndianhomesbutyouwillneeditonlyifyouplantomakeidlis–small,spongyriceandlentilcakes–atleastafewtimesamonth.Anidlisteamerismadeofmetal(moretraditionalandusedonthehob)orplastic(morerecent,foruseinamicrowave)andhasasetofindentedlayersinside.Bothworkwellenough.Thebatterispouredintotheindentsandsteamed.Aneggpoacherorlittleindividualbowlsplacedinasteamercanbeusedinstead.
SequenceofCooking
Indiancookeryisasetoforchestratedprocessesthatwillresultintherightflavour,colour,textureandaroma.Thisisthesequence.Itisinfluencedbyhow
flavour,colour,textureandaroma.Thisisthesequence.Itisinfluencedbyhowlongeachingredienttakestocooktoperfectioninthatparticularrecipe.Forexample,acurryrecipewherebrownedonionsaretobegroundtoapastewillneedthoseonionstobestir-friedslowlyattherighttemperatureuntiltheyaresoftandcookedthrough.Iftheonionsarenotcookedallthewaythrough,therewillbeanunpleasanttasteofrawonionsinthefinaldish.
Thesequenceisalsodeterminedbyhoweachingredientinfluencestheother.Addinganacidsuchastomatoeswhilecookinglentilsincreasesthecookingtimeandcooksthedalunevenly.
Itisbestnottotakeshortcutswhilecookingbecauserecipeshavebeenwrittenwiththissequenceinmind.Ofcourse,eachcookmayvarythisslightly–somefrygingerandgarlicbeforeaddingonionstothepan,whichcanresultinadeeper,smokiertaste.Iaddthemaftertheonionsarealmostcookedtopreventthemfromburning(typicallyonionstake8–10minutestocook,whereasgarlicandgingertakejust3–4)andforamorebalancedflavour.
Spicesareespeciallyimportantinthissequence.Seedspicesandpowderstakedifferenttimestocookandarethereforeaddedtothepanatvaryingtimes.Rawspiceswillbringanunappetisingbitternesstothedish.
Colourisanimportantconsiderationandeachingredientmustbeallowedtodeveloptherightcolourorbecookedinsuchawaythatitdoesnotcolouratall.Rich,goldenmeatcurriesgettheirlovelycolourfromthebrowningofonionsandspices.
DRYINGREDCHILLIES,KISHANGARHFORT,KISHANGARH,RAJASTHAN.DRIEDREDCHILLIESADDCOLOURASWELLASADEEP,SMOKYINTENSITYOF
FLAVOURTOMANYINDIANDISHES.
THESPICECUPBOARDINANINDIANKITCHENALWAYSHOLDSPRIDEOFPLACE.PROPERLYSTOREDSPICES,USEDJUDICIOUSLY,CANMAKEALLTHEDIFFERENCETOA
BALANCED,DELICIOUSMEAL.
SPICESUsingspicesforhealth→Weusespicesforseveralreasons–firstandforemostfortheirhealth-givingproperties.Allspicesaregoodforone’shealthifeateninmoderation.Turmeric,whichismyfavouritespice,isusedbothfreshasarootandinpowderform.Itcontainstheantioxidantcurcumin,thoughttohelpconditionssuchasasorethroatandpossiblypreventcancer.
Chilli,inmoderation,canactivatethesalivaandgastricjuicesandhelpustodigestfoodbetter.Blackpepper,whichisnativetosouthernIndia,containsanessentialoilcalledpiperinewhichcanaidtheabsorptionofnutrientssuchasseleniumandbetacarotenefromourfood.Pepperisaddedtomanycurrieseitheronitsownoraspartofgarammasala,afragrant,warmspiceblend.
Usingspicesforflavour→Thearomaticoilsinspicesareusedtoimpartflavourtocooking.Theseoilsarereleasedintwoways–byheatingandbycrushingorsplitting.Thisiswhyspiceseedsandspicepowdersbehavedifferentlyinthecookingprocess.Theseedsrequireahighercookingtemperaturetosplitthemwhereasthepowdersneedmoderateheattoreleasetheiroils.
Usingspicesforcolour→Indianrecipesarecreatedkeepinginmindnotjustflavourbutalsocolour,textureandtemperature.Turmericaddsabrightgoldencolourtomanysavourydishesandasitdoesnotchangetheflavourgreatly,Indiancookswilladdatinytouchmoreiftheythinkthatthedishlookstoopaleaftertheyhavefinishedcookingit.Fryingspicepowdersinoilatthestartcanaddtothefinaldarkcolourofthedish.
Usingspicestoincreaseshelflife→Somespicesareknowntohaveantimicrobialpropertiesandcanhelptopreservefoodsforlonger.Mustard,cinnamonandclovesareparticularlyeffectiveandmanypicklesinIndiacontainsplitmustardseedsforthisreason.
SpiceSeeds
Iftherecipehasoilandseeds,theseedswillalwaysgointotheoilfirst,withtherestoftheingredientsaddedontopinasequencethatdependsonthetimetakenforeachofthemtocook.Seedsarealsofriedinoilandpouredontopofadishastemperingor‘tadka’.Isimplywarmtheoiloverahighheatratherthanallowingittobecomeblazinghotbeforeaddingtheseedstothepan.ThisgivesmecontrolasIwatchthespiceseedsslowlypoporsizzleratherthanflyoutofthepanorpossiblyburniftheoilistoohot.
TOASTINGSPICESEEDSSpiceseedsaresometimesdry-toastedandcrushedforfreshnessofflavour.Notallspicesneedtobecrushedeverysingletimeyoumakeameal.TheonesthatIwouldrecommendbecrushedathomearecorianderseeds,cuminseedsandgarammasala.Simplytoastthespiceseedsinadryfryingpantoreleasetheiraromaticoilsanddryoutanyresidualmoisture,makingthembrittleandeasiertocrush.Assoonasthepanishot,inamatterofseconds,theywilldarkenanddevelopanaroma.Tipthemintoamortarandpestleoraspicemillandcrushthemtoapowder.Forthefreshestflavourofall,youcanputtoastedgarammasalaspicesinapeppermilland,withafewturnseachtime,sprinklethemontocurriesjustbeforeserving.
Tip:Whenmakingapowderedblend,makesurethatthetoastedspicesarecompletelycoolbeforecrushingorblitzingthemotherwisetheywillbecomecakeyandformlumps.
POWDEREDORGROUNDSPICESPowderedorgroundspices,ontheotherhand,cangoinatthreedifferentstagesofthecooking.Ifyouwantdepthofflavour,theygointothewarmoilatthebeginning.Astheoilheatsup,youwillseethreedistinctstages.Thisistrueofseedsandpowders.
1Thespiceswillpop,crackleorsizzle.
2Theywillchangecolour(exceptforblackorbrownmustardseeds).3Theywilldevelopacookedaroma.
Whencookingspicepowdersinoil,itissometimesdifficulttoestimateexactlywhentheyare‘done’.Youcanaddacoupleoftablespoonsofwatertothepanandletitcookforafewminutesuntilthewaterhasevaporated,leavingthespicessizzlingintheoil.Thearomawillhavechangedfrombeingquitestrongtobecomingmellow.Indianrecipesalsoaskforspicepowderstobemixedintoalittlewaterandthenaddedtothepan.Thisallowsthemtocookwithoutscorching.
Thesestagesprogresswithinsecondswhentheoilhasreachedthecorrecttemperature,sobesuretohaveyournextingredientcloseathand.Ifyouhaveseedsinthepan,youcanaddanyingredient,suchasonions,tomatoes,chillies,meatorvegetablesnext.However,ifyouarecookingspicepowders,youwillhavetoaddaliquidingredientassoonasthespicesarecooked.Thiscouldbetomatoes,tamarindpulp,cookedlentilsorcurrypastes.
Mostofmyrecipesaskyoutosprinkleinthegroundspicesontopofingredientsthathavereducedthetemperatureofthepan.Forexample,theonionsgointotheoilatthebeginning.Whentheysoftenenough,theginger,garlicandfreshchilliesareadded.Tomatoesmaybenext,followedbythespicepowders.Thisway,thetemperatureinthepanisnothighenoughtoburnthespicesunless,ofcourse,itisleftontheheatunattendedfortoolong.
Somespicepowdersareusedas‘finishingspices’.Theusualonesareredchillipowderandtoastedcuminpowder,whichareoftenseensprinkledonsalads,streetfoodcalled‘chaat’andyogurt-basedcurries.Garammasalaisalsodustedontocurriesforatopnoteofaromaandwarmth.
MyFiveBasicSpices
TURMERIC→OneofthemosttraditionalandversatilespicesusedinIndiancooking,turmericistheheartandsoulofanycurry.ThiskeyingredientisuseddailyineverypartofIndiaasitsuniquecolour,duetothepresenceofthepigmentcurcumin,andflavourenrichesallregionalcuisine.
Asfortheroot,onlycuredturmerichasthearomaandcolour(chieflyduetothepresenceofcurcumin)necessaryforcooking.Turmerichasanearthy,sensualfragranceandamusky,drytaste,butitisusedwholeheartedlyinIndiancookingforitswonderfulqualityofenhancingandbalancingtheflavoursofalltheotheringredients.However,becarefulnottouseturmericwhencookinggreenvegetablesastheywillturndullandtastebitter.Bewarywhenstoringandusingturmericasitwillstainhandsandclothesquitequickly.
CHILLIPOWDER→Chillipowderisusednotonlyforitsheatbutalsoforitscolour.Manyvarietiesofchillies,suchasKashmiriredchillies,arebrightredbutonlymoderatelyhot.Theyaresometimessoakedinwaterorvinegarandgroundtoapastetoaddacertaincolourandsmokinesstocurries.Byadagichillies,growninKarnataka,aredeceptivelydeepredincolourbuthaveminimalheat.Commerciallyavailablechillipowderisusuallyablendofseveralvarietiesandissoldinextrahot,hot,mediumandmildversions.Ithinkit’sbesttobuythemoderateversion.Interestingly,inIndia,theBhutJolokia,whichhasacquiredcelebrityasoneoftheworld’shottestchillies,israrelyseenoutsideofthenorth-easternregionwhereitisgrown.
IntheWest,chilliesfromallovertheworld,includingThailandandIndia,areimportedandcanbeseennexttoeachotherinsupermarkets.Iusebird’s-eyechillies,variouslycalled‘longthin’or‘thingreen’chillies.
CUMIN→Cuminseedsareelongated,ovalandlong.Theyrangefromsage-greentotobacco-brownincolourandhavelongitudinalridges.Anothervarietyofcuminisblackcumin(‘kalajeera’,‘shahijeera’or‘siyajeera’):theseedsaredarkbrowntoblackandaresmallerandfinerthancumin.Thesmellofcuminis
distinctive;itcanbedescribedasstrongandbitterandisusuallylovedorhated.Cuminhasawarm,somewhatbittertaste.
Itisavailablewholeasseeds,orcrushedtoapowder,whichisoftenblendedwithgroundcoriandertoformawidelyusedmixturecalled‘dhana-jeera’.ThiscombinationisoneoftheessentialspiceblendsusedinIndiancookery.Toastedcuminpowdergivesalifttomanycurriesandyogurt-basedraitas.
CORIANDER→ThisprettyherbisthemostcommonlyusedgarnishinnorthernandwesternIndia,andaddsadewy-greentouchtoredorbrowncurries.Seedsofthecorianderplantarethespice.Corianderisperhapsoneofthefirstspicesknowntomanandhasbeenaroundforover3,000years.
Corianderleavesandseedsarecompletelydifferentwithregardstoaromaandflavour.Theleavestasteandsmellfreshandfruitywithahintofginger.Theseeds,ontheotherhand,haveasweetaromawithasubtlewhiffofpineandpepper.Littlebunchesoffreshcorianderarecommonlyavailableatgreengrocersandsupermarkets.Itlooksquitelikeparsleybutthetestliesinthearoma–parsleyhasamoredelicatesmellthancoriander.
MUSTARDSEEDS→Therearethreemainvarietiesofmustardseeds:yellow,andtheonesusedinIndiancooking–brownandblack–whichareinterchangeable.Rawmustardseedshavealmostnosmell,butoncookingtheyacquireadistinctive,acrid,baked-eartharomathatdominatesanydish.Theseedsaresharp,nutty,slightlybitterandaromaticintaste.Theirheatisoftenmisjudged,sobecarefulwhenaddingthemtorecipes.Mustardpastehasauniqueflavourthathitsyouinthenose.
Indiancookingdoesnotusecommerciallyblendedmustardsbuttheycanmakeareasonablesubstituteforhomemademustardpaste.InsouthIndiaandalongthecoast,mustardisusedprimarilyastempering(seehere).InBengal,mustardseedsarecrushedtoapasteforuseinfierymarinadesandcurries.
OTHERSPICESTHATICOMMONLYUSEARE:
Cinnamon→Cinnamon(7)isanevergreentreeofthelaurelfamily.Thedriedinnerbarkofthecinnamontreeisthespiceusedincooking.Iusecinnamonsticksforbiryanisandcurrypastesastheyhaveamorepowerfulflavourthanshop-boughtgroundcinnamon.Notallrecipescallforcinnamonandit’snotoneoftheeverydayspicesinIndiancooking.Whenused,itisoftenaddedwholeintocurriesorrice,soit’sbesttocrushthesticksinamortarandpestleasandwhenneeded.Itisalsoanessentialpartofthestandardblendofgarammasala.
Cardamom→Cardamom(1)isoneofthemostexpensivespicesintheworld.Thefat,greenpodsgrowninKerala,southIndia,areconsideredthebest.Cardamompodsareovalcapsulescontaininghard,darkbrownseedsthatarestickyandclingtogether.Thetwomainvarietiesaregreenandblack.Thegreenoneshavea‘sweet’aromaandareusedindessertsorsavourydishes,whereastheblackonesaresmokyandareonlyusedinrichsavourydishes.
Asafoetida(Hing)→AlthoughnotnativetoIndia,asafoetida(5)hasforcenturiesbeenanessentialpartofIndiancookeryandmedicine.Asafoetidaisthedriedlatexfromtherhizomesofseveralspeciesofferulaorgiantfennel.ItisgrownchieflyinIranandAfghanistanfromwhereitisexportedtotherestoftheworld.Asafoetidahasapungent,unpleasantsmellquitelikethatofpickledeggs,duetothepresenceofsulphurcompounds.Thispungencyreduceswhenthespiceiscookedanditacquiresanaromalikethatofcookedonionsandgarlic.Itspowerfulsmellcomplementslentils,vegetablesandpickles.ItisoftenusedasadigestivespiceinvegetariancookeryandinplaceofgarlicinthecookeryofsomereligionssuchasJainismthatforbidtheuseofgarlicoranyingredientgrownundergroundasitcouldleadtothedestructionoflifewhentheseareuprooted.Itisalwaysusedinsmallquantities–apinchaddedtohotoilbeforetheotheringredientsisenoughtoflavouradishforfour.
MangoPowder(Amchoor)→Mangopowder(3)ismadefromraw,sour,green
mangoes,especiallywindfallsorwildmangoes.Theunripefruitsarepeeled,cutintothinslices,driedandpowderedtomakeafruity,sourspicethatisusedasasouringagent,especiallyindryrecipesthatwouldchangebytheadditionofawetingredient.AmchoorisavailableinspecialitysupermarketsintheWestandcanbesubstitutedwithlemonjuice.
Pepper→InIndia,pepper(4)isusedineverytypeofregionalcookery,oftenaspartofagarammasalablend.Itcanbecookedwiththemainingredientsorsprinkledontopasafinishingspice.
Ajowan(Ajwain)→Ajowan(2)isacloserelativeofdill,carawayandcumin.Thefragranceofthespiceisverysimilartothatoforegano.Ajowangoesparticularlywellwithgreenbeans,rootvegetablesandindishesthatareflour-based,allofwhichformanimportantpartofIndia’svastvegetariancuisine.SnackslikeBombaymixandonionbhajiasdependonspiceslikeajowanfortheiruniqueflavour.
Saffron→Atonetime,saffron(6)grewwildinPersiaandAsiaMinorbuttodayIndiaandSpainaretheonlymajorproducers.InIndiaitonlygrowsinthevalleyofKashmir.SaffronisthedriedstigmasoftheCrocussativus,aperennialbulb,whichflowersforjusttwoweeksinlateOctober.InIndiathelavender-blueblossomsarepluckedatdawnbeforethehotsunwiltsthem.Thenthedelicatestigmasareprisedoutfromwithineachfloweranddriedartificiallyorinthesun.
Saffronismadeupoffine,orange-goldthreadsthataresolightthat750,000handpickedflowersyieldonlyabout450g.Whenfresh,saffronisbrightandglossy,butexposuretolightandairmakesitdullandbrittle.Puresaffronisbelievedtobeabletocolourandflavour70,000timesitsweightinliquid.Itsintense,muskyaromasuffusesthedishtowhichithasbeenaddedandthetasteisdelicateandonlyveryslightlybitter.Itisthemostexpensivespiceintheworldduetoitsscarcity,fragilityandflavour.Thatiswhythetemptationtoadulterateitisconsiderable.Theusualadulterantissafflower,aptlycalled‘bastardsaffron’.Cheaperandwiththickerstrandsthansaffron,itwillturnfoodgoldenbutwillnotflavourit.
Saffronenhancessavouryfoodaswellassweet.Afewstrandssoakedina
littlewarmwaterormilkandaddedtothedishalongwiththeliquidaddafragrantrichness.Itespeciallycomplementsmilkdesserts,ricepulaosandbiryanisandwhitemeatssuchasfishandchicken.
SPICEBLENDSANDCURRYPOWDERS
Thereisnooneblendcalled‘currypowder’inIndia.Eachregionandeverycommunityofpeoplehasauniquerecipespecialtothatgroup.Herearesomebasicrecipesthatwillmakeabatchofafewtablespoons.
HowtostorespicesIfstoredproperly,spiceseedswilllastuptoayear.Powdersandpowderedspiceblendsshouldideallybeusedupin6months.
GaramMasala
Someofthemostexpensivespicesgointothemakingofgarammasala(literally‘warmingspices’)andthereareasmanyrecipesforitastherearehouseholdsinIndia.Dependingonindividualtaste,theproportionsofthevariousingredientscanbeadjustedtomakethisanaromaticratherthanhotblend.Ihavecreatedmyblendasbelowusingspicesforaroma(cardamom,cinnamon,fennel)aswellasforbulkingandthickeningcurries(coriander,cumin).Ialsokeepawayfromrecipesthathavealonglistofingredientsassomegarammasalamixesdo,andfindthatthisrecipeissufficientlyaromatic.
Garammasalaisusedwholeorgrounddependingonwhat’scooking.Thebasicblendincludescloves,cinnamon,cardamom,peppercorns,bayleaf,mace,cuminandcorianderseeds.Commercially-boughtgarammasalaisquitegoodifusedwithinacoupleofmonths.Theblendiseasytogrindathome,soitisbesttobuywhole,plumpspicesandcrushtheminanelectricgrinder,coffeemillorusingamortarandpestle.Thismixturecanthenbestoredinanairtightcontainerforupto6months.
Indiancooksusegarammasalainsmallamounts.Itcanbeaddedatdifferentstagesofcookingfordifferentdegreesofflavour.Itisalsousedasafinishingspice.
1teaspoonblackpeppercorns2teaspoonscuminseeds2cmpieceofcinnamonstick10greencardamompods,deseededandhusksdiscarded5blackcardamompods,deseededandhusksdiscarded10cloves
3bayleaves2bladesofmace1teaspoonfennelseeds2teaspoonscorianderseeds
1Heatadryfryingpanoveramediumheat,addthespicesanddry-toastuntiltheystarttodarkenandbecomearomatic.Removefromtheheatandleavetocoolcompletelybeforegrindingtoafinepowderinaspicemillorusingamortarandpestle.Storeinanairtightcontainerinacool,darkplaceandconsumewithin6months.Youcanalsoputthewholetoastedspicesintoapeppermilltouseasandwhenrequired.
SambharPowder
ThisspiceblendisfoundineverysouthIndianhome.Ready-madesambharpowderisavailableinIndiabutyoucanmakeyourownquiteeasilyasitisnotasreadilyavailableintheWest.ItgoesmainlyintosambharorsouthIndiandal,orintovegetabledishes.
1teaspoonblackmustardseeds1teaspoonfenugreekseeds2teaspoonscuminseeds1teaspoonblackpeppercorns1teaspooncorianderseeds1teaspoontoordal
1teaspoonsplitblacklentils(uraddal)1teaspoongroundturmeric¼teaspoonasafoetida
1Heataheavy-basedpanoveramediumheat,addthewholespicesonebyoneanddry-toast.Keeptheheatlowandstirconstantlytostopthemfromburning.Theseedswillcrackleandflyoutsobeware!Whentheyhavedarkenedandbegintosmoke,tipeachspiceintoabowl.2Inthesamepan,dry-toastthetoordalfor5–6minutesuntilitstartstochangecolour,thentipthisintothetoastedspicemix.Dry-toasttheuraddalfor4–5minutesandaddthisinaswell.3Leavethemixturetocoolcompletely,thenaddtheturmericandasafoetidaandgrindinaspicemillormortarandpestleuntilfine.Storeinanairtightcontainerinacool,darkplaceandconsumewithin6months.
GodaMasala
ThisMaharashtrianspiceblendisadark,aromaticpowderwithaburntsweetnesswhichcomesfromthecoconutinthemixture.
1teaspoonsunfloweroil1cmpieceofcinnamonstick5cloves5greencardamompods,deseededandhusksdiscarded2bayleaves2teaspoonswhitesesameseeds2teaspoonscorianderseeds4tablespoonsdesiccated
coconut10blackpeppercorns2tablespoonswhitepoppyseeds
1Heattheoilinafryingpanoveramediumheat,thenaddthecinnamon,cloves,cardamomseedsandbayleavesandfryfor2–3minutesuntiltheclovesswell.Removefromthepan,wipeitdryandusethesamepanfordry-toasting.2Dry-toasttheremainingingredientsonebyoneoveralowheatuntiltheydarken.Thecoconutshouldbetoasteduntildarkbrown.Removefromtheheatandleavetocool,thengrindwiththefriedspicesinaspicemilluntilfine.Storeinanairtightcontainerinacool,darkplaceandconsumewithin6months.
KolhapuriMasala
ThisisafieryspiceblendfromKolhapurinMaharashtra.Itisusedinbothvegetableaswellasmeatorchickencurries.
10driedredchillies2tablespoonssesameseeds1tablespooncorianderseeds1tablespooncuminseeds1
tablespoonfreshlygroundblackpepper1teaspoonfenugreekseeds6cloves1tablespoonblackorbrownmustardseeds50gdesiccatedcoconut½teaspoongroundnutmeg1teaspoonmediumhotredchillipowder
1Heatafryingpanoveramediumheatanddry-toastthespices(exceptthenutmegandchillipowders)andcoconutonebyoneforafewminutes.Thespiceswillbegintosizzleandpopandthecolourofthechilliesandthecoconutwilldarken.Removefromtheheat,asovercookingthemwillmakethespicesbitter.Tipintoabowl.2Leavetocoolcompletely,thenblitztoafinepowderinacoffeemill.Storeinanairtightcontainerinacool,darkplaceandconsumewithin6months.
PanchPhoron
ThisBengalispiceblendisusedwholeorinpowderform.Itendtokeepmyblendintheseedform.InBengal,themixwouldcontain‘radhuni’(wildceleryseeds).AsthesearenotsowidelyavailableintheWest,cookssubstitutethemwithmustardseeds.
Mixequalquantitiesof:CuminseedsFennelseedsFenugreekseedsBlackmustardseedsorradhuniNigellaseeds
1Storethemixinseedformordry-toastthespicesandcrushthemtoafinepowderinaspicemillorusingamortarandpestle.Storeinanairtightcontainerinacool,darkplaceandconsumewithin6monthsifpowdered,orwithinayearifstoredinseedform.
1PanchPhoron;2GodaMasala;3KolhapuriMasala;4SambharPowder;5GaramMasala.
ThengaiSadamChettinadMuttonBiryaniPulaoRiceElumichaiSadamVangiBhaathTamaterPulaoKoftaPulaoMungDalKhichdiSubziyonKiTahiriHyderabadiKucchiBiryaniKolmiBhaatPudinaPulaoMosarannaMushroomPulaoKovilPulihodaraiParsi-styleBrownRice
RICEORIGINATEDASAWILDGRASSINTHEREGIONOFWHATWENOWCALLCHINA.OryzasativaHASTWOMAJORSUBSPECIESTHATWEUSETODAY–THESHORT-GRAINED,STICKYJAPONICAUSEDINTHAIANDOTHEREASTASIANCUISINESANDTHEFLUFFY,
LONG-GRAINEDINDICAUSEDININDIANCOOKERY.
TheYajurveda(c.1200–1,000BCE),oneofthefourkeySanskrittextsofHinduism,describesthemakingofricecakesasaritualofferingtoAgni,theGodofFire.TheShunyaPurana,writtenbyRamaitheWiseinthe10th–11thcenturyAD,statesthat50varietiesofrice,suchasNagra,Jhinga-salandPanloi,weregrowninBengaleventhen.Manyofthosevarietiesarenowextinctbutthesethreevarietiesarestillbeingconservedonspecialfarmsbyriceconservationists.
EarlyEuropeanvisitorstoIndiawerenotfamiliarwithrice.Aristobulus,whocamewithAlexandertheGreataround326BCE,describeditasastrangeplantstandinginwater,andtheGreekexplorerMegasthenesdescribeditasbeingastapleintheIndiandiet.
Indianshaveauniquerelationshipwithrice.BesidesbeingattheheartofmanyregionalcuisinessuchasTamilianandBengali,itisalsoassociatedwithreligiousandsocialritualsandsacraments.TraditionalHinducookerydifferentiatesbetween‘kaccha’and‘pukka’foods;kacchaarethosethatarecookedinwaterandareconsumedinthekitchen.Pukkafoodsarecookedingheeandcanbetakenoutofthekitchenforpublicconsumption.Theserulesweremadeforreasonsofhealthandhygienebutbecamereligiouspracticesofpurity.Eventodaytemplefoodsarepukkafoodsandoftenincludefrieddelicaciessweetenedwithjaggeryorsugar.Ricewasakacchafoodandcouldonlybeeatenfresh.
The‘annaprashana’Hindusacramentiswhenachildisgiventheirfirstsolidfoodandthisisalmostalwayssomesoftricemixedwithcreamyhomemadeghee.Funeralsaremarkedwithriceballsbeingofferedtotheancestorsasasymbolicmealintheirhonour.
TheHindugoddessParvatiisalsocalled‘Annapurna’(providerofabountyofrice).InaHinduwedding,ricecolouredwithturmericandvermilionisscatteredoverthecoupletosignifysustenanceandfertility.Abrideentersherhusband’shousebyoverturningasmallpotofrawricewithhertoe,invitinggoodluckandprosperityintohernewhome.
goodluckandprosperityintohernewhome.Eventoday,therice-growingcultureofruralIndiaisinfluencedbythisbelief
inParvati.Inthetoprice-cultivatingregionssuchasWestBengal,UttarPradeshandAndhraPradesh,wherethecuisinecentresaroundthisstaple,eachstageofproduction,suchasploughing,transplantation,harvestingandstoringthericeisdoneonanauspiciousdayandvariousritualscalled‘pujas’areperformed.
Apartfromthevastarrayofrituals,riceisanimportantpartofIndiancookery.EveryregionproducesitsownvarietyandalthoughoutsideofIndiabasmatiriceispopular,withinthecountrypeoplewilleattheirlocalriceonadailybasis.
InAndhraPradesh,amedium-grainaromaticricecalled‘sonamasuri’isfavoured.Inthesouth,aninexpensiveshort-grainedredricecalled‘matta’isprized,whereasinMaharashtraintheWestitistheshort-grained‘ambemohar’,whichsmellslikemangoflowerswhencooked.Inwealthierfamilies,basmatiriceiscookedonspecialoccasionsorforcertaindisheslikebiryanis.
EachregionofIndiahasuniquericepreparations.Itiscookedinitsgrainform,beatentomakeflatrice‘poha’orcrushedintoflourforbattersandpoppadums.InMaharashtraandsouthernIndiaitisservedincourses,accompaniedbyadifferentcurryorlentildisheachtime.Inasouthernhome,youwillbeservedricefirstwithspicylentil‘sambhar’,thenwithathinner‘rasam’andfinallywithplainyogurt.Inthenorth-east,variouscommunitiessuchastheKhamtisgrowtheirownrice,andinAssam,riceiscookedwithfragrantShewaliflowerstomakeaslightlybitterpreparationcalled‘teetabhaat’thatisservedatthebeginningofthemeal.
RiceprovidesamajorproportionofcaloriesintheIndiandiet.Itisalwayseatenincombinationwithdalorbeanstomakeacompleteprotein.Ricecontainsthecysteineandmethioninethatlentilslackandlentilsprovidethelysinethatricedoesnothaveenoughof.
RiceClassifications
SIZEOFGRAINLong-grainriceThegrainsareslimandfourtofivetimeslongerthantheyarewide.Theyareknowntocookfluffierthantheothervarietiesandarethereforeusuallymoreexpensive.Long-grainriceisusedinbiryanisandpulaos,suchasMurghDumBiryaniandPudinaPulao,asthericeneedstobefluffyandseparate.Medium-grainriceThegrainsarealmosttwiceaslongastheyarewideandcooksofterandmoisterthanlong-grainrice.Thisisusedineverydaymealsasithelpstoholdtogetherwetcurriesanddals.TypicalrecipesincludeMungDalKhichdiandMosaranna.Short-grainriceThislooksslightlyovalorroundinshape.Itisquitestarchyandmaybeusedforricepudding-styledishessuchasRiceKheerandPhirni.
PROCESSINGWhenriceisharvested,itisfirstcalled‘roughrice’andisstillcoveredbyanon-ediblehusk.Atthemill,roughriceisprocessedthroughsortingmachinesthatcleanthekernelsandremoveforeignmatter.
Thehuskisthenremoved,leavingbrownricewiththebranlayersstill
Thehuskisthenremoved,leavingbrownricewiththebranlayersstillsurroundingthericekernel.Grainsofbrownricearepolishedbyremovingthebranlayers,revealingwhiterice.Asthemostnutritiouslayersofthericegrainhavebeenremovedinthemillingprocess,whitericeisoftenenrichedwiththiamin,niacinandirontorestoreitbacktoitsoriginallevelsandhelppreventconditionssuchascardiovasculardiseaseandanaemia.
Someofthericeisseparatedtogothroughanextrainitialprocessingstepthatwillturnitintoparboiledrice.Parboiledriceisbrownricethatissteamedorparboiledsothatnutrientsfromtheouterhuskmoveintothegrainitself.
Basmati
HOWTOBUYBASMATIRICEThisisthemostwidelyavailableIndianriceallovertheworld.Itissoldundervariousbrandnames,andbagsofricesometimesmentionthatthericehasbeenaged.Basmatirice,likewine,getsbetterwithage.Top-qualitybasmatiisstoredfor1–2yearsinhighly-controlledconditions.Optimumtemperatureandlowmoisturelevelshelptodrythericeandhardentheoutershell.Thisenhancesandintensifiesitstaste,bouquetandcookingcharacteristics:oldricecooksupfluffy,withseparategrains,whilenewricecanbecomesticky.
InIndia,onecanaskthegrocerforagedriceanditwillbemoreexpensivethannewrice.Thereisawidepricerangeforbasmatirice,andbuyersintheWestoftenthinkthattheyarebeingaskedtopayforfancybrandnameswhereasinfact,itistheageingprocesstheyarepayingfor.
HowmuchtomakeAsageneralrule,allow50grawriceperperson.Dobearinmindwhatelseisbeingserved–ifyoualsohaveabreadorlotsofdifferentdishes,youwillneedabitless.
HOWTOCOOKBASMATIRICECleaningInIndia,ricealwayshastobecleanedasitissoldloosefromburlapsacks.Traditionallyitissiftedandcleanedina‘supdi’,asmall,flatcanebasketwherethericeistossedupanddowngentlytoseparateitfromtinystonesorforeignparticles.Itcanalsobespreadonawhitedinnerplateandsmall
quantitiesworkedtotheoppositesideoftheplate,pickingoutanyforeignobjects.OutsideofIndia,wherericeisalmostalwayssoldbagged,thisprocessisnotnecessary.
WashingIndianswillputriceintoabowlandpourincoldwaterfromthetap.Thenthefingersareswirledthroughtoloosenthestarchfromthegrainsandthewateriscarefullypouredoff.Withoutexperience,thismayseemtrickysoitisbesttowashthericeinasieveundercoldrunningwaterforacoupleofminutesuntilthewaterrunsclear.
SoakingAfterwashing,somecookssuggestsoakingthericeforanywherebetween15minutesto1hourtoallowthegrainstoabsorbmoisture,relaxandexpand.Basmatiricecookswell,dependingontherecipe,evenifitisn’tsoaked.
RiceCookingTips
HowtogetseparategrainsBuytherightbrandofrice–onethathasbeenagedandisthereforeabitpricier.Lightlyfryingthegrainsinafewdropsofcookingoilbeforeaddingwatermayhelpthegrainstocookupfluffyandlight.
ThetwomainmethodsYoucancookricebythedrainingortheabsorptionmethod.
Howmuchwater?Thiswilldependonvariousfactors,includingthevarietyandageoftherice,thedepthofthepanandthesourceandstrengthofheat.Inadeeppan,thereislessevaporationandyouwillneedslightlylesswaterthanifyouuseawidepan.Similarly,whencookingovergasorelectricheatyoumayneeddifferentamountsofwateraswellasdifferentcookingtimes.
Whichpantouse?Aheavy-basedsaucepanwithatight-fittinglidisessential.Thiswilldistributetheheatevenly,ensurethataminimumamountofsteamescapesandthatthewaterisabsorbedbythegrains.Ifyourliddoesnotsealthepan,useateatowelorfoiltocoverthepan,thenplacethelidontop.Thetowelwillabsorbthesteamandpreventitfromescaping,whereasthefoilwillactasatightseal.
Tostirornot?Whenyou’vecombinedthericeandwateroranyotherliquid,stironceverygentlythenresistthetemptationtostiragain.Ricegrainsaredelicateandsusceptibletobreakingifhandledtoomuch,andover-stirringwillmakethericestarchy.Also,onceyou’veputthelidon,don’tremoveit,eventocheckthericeoramountofwater.Thiscooksthericeunevenlyandtherecipemaynotwork.Onceyou’veremovedthepanfromtheheat,leavethecookedricecoveredfor5minutesorsotorestandfluffup.Removethelidandrunaforkthroughittoloosenthegrains.
Tosaltornot?VariousIndianrecipessuggestusingsaltornot,dependingonthecook.Idon’taddsalttoplainriceoranyricedishthatistobeeatenwithadalorcurrybecausethoseaccompanimentswillalwayshavesaltinthem.Ifaricedishcanbeeatenonitsown,forexampleabiryaniorlemonrice,Idoaddabitofsalt.
ElectricricecookerManyIndiansandcooksfromFarEasterncountriesusethissimplybecauseofthequantitiesofricetheycookonadailybasis.Followthemanufacturer’sinstructionsandputriceandtheexactamountofwaterintothecooker.Donotaddsalt.Switchitonandleaveittoturnitselfoff.Itwillturnitselfonfromtimetotimetokeepthericehot.
HOWTOSTORECOOKEDRICESAFELYBelowaretherecommendationsoftheNHSintheUK.Itispossibletogetfoodpoisoningfromimproperlystoredcookedricethathasbeenreheated.
UncookedricecontainssporesofBacilluscereus,bacteriathatcancausefoodpoisoning.Thesporessurviveevenaftercookingand,atroomtemperature,thesecangrowintobacteriaandproducetoxinsthatcausethesymptomsoffoodpoisoning.Thelongerthericeisleftatroomtemperature,thehigherthechancesofbacteriagrowing,makingthericeunsafetoeat.
Riceshouldideallybeeatenassoonasitiscooked.Leftoversshouldbecooledquicklybeforestoring;thiscanbedonebyspreadingthericeoutonatraytocoolthenchillingit.Youcanstorericeinthefridgeforadaythenreheatituntilitissteaminghot,eitherinamicrowaveorinasteamer.It’sbestnottoreheatricemorethanonce.
VARIETIESOFRICEAlthoughIndiahashundredsofvarietiesofrice,thesearesomeofthemostcommonthatarefoundaroundtheworld:
Basmati→Truetoitsname‘QueenofFragrance’,thisricehasanuttyaromaandasmooth,butteryflavour.Thegrainselongateandplumpupastheycookandtheendresultisadry,fluffy,separaterice.Basmatiricegrowsinsnow-fedpaddyfieldsatthefoothillsoftheHimalayas,ismoreexpensivethanotherIndianrice,andisavailableasbrownorwhite.
Patna→Thisisalong-grain,slenderricethatcomesfromtheGangeticplainsofBiharinnorthIndia.Itresemblesbasmatiricebuthaslessfragranceandisopaqueratherthantranslucent.Nevertheless,inareaswhereitisgrown,itisalsoreferredtoas‘Parimal’orperfumed.Itisusedtomakeeverydayboiledricethatiseatenwithcurries.
Matta→Thegrainsofthisriceareshort,coarseandpinkincolour.ItisgrowninKeralaandKarnatakaandisusedinsouthIndiaaswellasSriLanka.Ofthevarioustypesofmattarice,‘PalakkadanMatta’and‘Navara’arebothregional,organicallygrownvarietiesandareregisteredundertheGeographicalIndicationsofGoodsAct1999,whichmeansthattheyareassociatedwithaspecificlocationandorigin.Theunique,earthytasteofmattamakesitapopularaccompanimenttomeat.Itissoldparboiled,whichensuresthatthenutrientsarelockedintoeachgrain.
SonaMasuri→Thismedium-grain,white,aromaticriceislightweightandlowinstarch.ItgrowsmainlyinAndhraPradeshandKarnatakaandisusedinsouthernbiryanisandajaggery-sweetenedricedishcalled‘pongal’.
Sella→Thisriceisgoldenincolourasthepaddyisfirststeamed,thendriedandmilled.Thissealsinthenutrients.Long-grainricegrowninPunjabisoftenused
tomakethistypeofricewhichisusedinbiryanisandpulaos.
SurtiKloam→Amedium-grainvariety,itismostpopularintheGujaratregionofIndiawhereitisusedasaneverydayrice.Ithasamilderflavourandaromathanbasmatirice.
1Sella;2Patna;3SonaMasuri;4Matta;5Basmati.
MASTERCLASS
CHAVAL–PlainBoiledRice–absorptionmethodPlainriceisthemostpopularriceinIndiaasitactsastheperfectbackdroptoflavourfulcurriesanddals.
Serves4PREPARATION→5minutesCOOKING20minutes
YOUWILLNEED:200gbasmatirice
1Measurethericeinameasuringjug,thenwashinasieve,drainandputintoaheavy-basedsaucepanwithdoubletheamountofwatertorice(measuredinthesamejug).Bringtotheboilwithoutstirring.
2Reducetheheattolow,stironcegentlyandcoverthepan.Simmerfor10minutes,thenremovefromtheheatandleavethericetorestfor5minutes,covered.
3Removethelid,gentlyrunaforkthroughthericetoloosenit,andservehot.
MASTERCLASS
CHAVAL–PlainBoiledRice–drainingmethod
Thisisagoodwayofcookingricewhenyouhavemanydishesonthego.Onceyou’vedoneitafewtimes,you’llbeabletojudgehowlongittakestocookperfectriceinyourpan,onyourhobandwiththericeyounormallybuy.Youcanusethismethodwithbrownorwholegrainbasmatiricebutthecookingtimewillbelonger–allow30–45minutesofsimmeringtime.
Serves4PREPARATION→5minutesCOOKING25minutes
YOUWILLNEED:200gbasmatirice
1Measurethericeinameasuringjug,thenwashinasieve,drainandsetaside.Putsixtimesthevolumeofwater(measuredinthesamejug)toriceinalargesaucepanandbringtotheboil.Youcanalsouseboilingwaterfromthekettle.
2Addthericeandstironce,gently.Bringbacktotheboil,reducetheheattoasimmerandcookuntilthericeisdone.Thiscantake10–15minutes,dependingonyourpanandheatsource.Partiallycoveringyourpanwillcookthericefaster.Youcantestthericebysquashingagrainbetweenyourthumbandforefingerorsimplybytastingit!
3Drainthericethroughasieve,allowingallthewatertodrainaway.Servehot.
ThengaiSadam
[COCONUTRICE]
Thejuicinessoffreshcoconutisvitaltothisdishandthereforeitcannotbesubstitutedwithdesiccatedcoconut.Forinstructionsonhowtograteacoconut.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING30minutes
200gbasmatirice,washedanddrained2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspoonblackmustardseeds2tablespoonscashewnuts1teaspoonchoppedfreshgreenchillies1teaspoonsplit,skinlessblacklentils(uraddal),
soakedinwaterfor15minutesanddrainedlargepinchofasafoetida7freshor10driedcurryleaves50gfreshcoconut,gratedsalt
1Putthericeanddoubletheamountofwaterbyvolumeinaheavy-basedsaucepanandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheattolow,stir,coverandcookfor10minutesuntilthewaterhasbeenabsorbedandthericeiscooked.Removefromtheheatandsettooneside,covered.2Heattheoilinalargefryingpanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Fryuntiltheystarttopop,thenaddthecashewnuts,chillies,lentils,asafoetidaandcurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter).Fryfor1minute,thenaddthegratedcoconutandstiruntilthemixturestartstoturngolden.Seasontotastewithsalt.3Removefromtheheatandfoldintothecookedrice.ServehotwithSambharorVellarikkaKootu.
ChettinadMuttonBiryani
[LAMBBIRYANIWITHSOUTHERNSPICES]
Afewyearsago,IdidafoodtriparoundthesouthernstateofTamilNaduandstoppedatasmallhighwaycaféservingonlybiryani.HereIhadoneofthetastiestricedishesIhaveeversampled.SoImademywaytothekitchenonlytobetoldthatthechef‘hadleftfortheday’!Leavingwithoutarecipebutarmedwithspicesfromalocalshop,ItriedoutseveralversionsinmyownkitchenandthisonecomesclosesttowhatIateinKaraikudiinChettinad.Mountainmoss(dagadphool)isapaperyspicethatsmellsofaniseed.Ifyoucan’tfindit,useaniseedorfennelseedsinstead.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING1½hours
400glambormuttonshoulderonthebone,cutintobite-sizedpieces2tablespoonsginger-garlicpaste
1largeonion,diced2staranise4cloveslargepinchofmountainmoss(dagadphool)or1teaspoonaniseedorfennelseeds4green
cardamompods,husksremovedandseedscrushed4blackcardamompods,husksremovedandseedscrushed2.5cmpieceofcinnamonstick
10freshor15driedcurryleaves2freshgreenchillies,diced4driedredchillies,halvedandseedsshakenout1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongarammasala200gbasmatirice,washedanddrainedahandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,to
garnishsalt
1Putthelamb,ginger-garlicpasteandenoughsalttoseasoninapanwith400mlwater.Bringtotheboil,cover,reducetheheatandsimmerfor40minutesuntilthelambiscooked.2Puttheremainingingredients,exceptthecoriander,inaheavy-basedsaucepanandpourinthelambstockalongwiththecookedlamb.Seasontotaste.
3Bringtotheboil,reducetheheattothelowestsettingandcook,covered,for15minutesuntilallthestockhasbeenabsorbed.Removefromtheheatandfluffwithafork.Sprinklewiththecoriandertoserve.
PulaoRice
[RICEWITHCUMINANDFRIEDONIONS]
Pulaooftenfeaturesspiceandvegetables,meat,chickenorseafoodcombinedwithrice.Itisquiteasimplebutfragrantdish,whereafewwholespicessuchascardamomandclovesareusedratherthancomplexblendsasinabiryani.
Serves4PREPARATION→5minutesCOOKING25minutes
1tablespoonvegetableoil2onions,thinlysliced½teaspooncuminseeds200gbasmatirice,washedanddrainedsalt(optional)
1Heattheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepan,addtheonionsandfryfor8–10minutesuntilgoldenbrown.Addingasmallpinchofsaltwillhelptocooktheonionsfasterandpreventthemfromburning.Removefromthepanandsettooneside.Addthecuminseedstothesamepanwithandfryintheremainingoiluntiltheydarkenslightly.2Tipintherice,andletitfryfor1minuteorsountilitbecomesshiny.3Pourindoubletheamountofwatertoricebyvolume(measuredinthesamejug),stironceandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheattolow,coverandcookfor10minutes,untilthewaterhasbeenabsorbedandthericeiscooked.Removefromtheheat,leavethericetorestfor5minutes,covered,thenremovethelid,fluffthericewithaforkandservehot,toppedwiththefriedonions.
ElumichaiSadam
[LEMONRICE]
SouthIndiahasavastnumberofricerecipesandthisoneismyfavouritebecauseitisacompletemealinitself,butissosimpletoprepare.Fragrant,festiveandbeautifultolookat,itcanbeservedwithabowlofplainyogurtandsomehotpickle,withaspicycurry,orsimplyonitsown.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plussoakingtimeCOOKING25minutes
200gbasmatirice,washedanddrained2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspoonblackmustardseeds6freshcurryleaves
1teaspoonsplityellowgramlentils(chanadal),washedandsoakedinhotwaterfor15minutesanddrained10unsaltedcashewnuts
2tablespoonsunsaltedpeanuts1teaspoongroundturmeric3tablespoonslemonjuicesalt
1Putthericeanddoubletheamountofwaterbyvolumeinaheavy-basedsaucepanandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheattolow,stir,coverandcookfor10minutesuntilthewaterhasbeenabsorbedandthericeiscooked.Setaside.2Inaseparatepan,heattheoiloverahighheat,addthemustardseedsandfryuntiltheystarttopop.Addthecurryleaves(standingbackfromthepan,astheywillsplutter),lentils,cashewnutsandpeanuts,reducetheheatandfryforaminuteorso.3Whenthecashewsareslightlybrown,addtheturmeric.Immediatelyremovefromtheheatandaddthelemonjuice.Seasontotastewithsalt.4Gentlyfoldthecookedriceintothemixtureandservehot.
VangiBhaath
[SPICEDAUBERGINERICE]
ThisdishisfromMaharashtra,whereitisservedatweddingsandfeasts.Spiced,flavouredriceisconsideredfestiveasittakeslongertopreparethanplainrice,andiscolourfulandfragrant.YoucanmakeitasspicyasyouwishbutIpreferamediumheat,servedwithyogurt,hotmangopickleandcrisppoppadums.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING30minutes
2tablespoonsvegetableoil1mediumonion,thinlyslicedlargepinchofasafoetida8–10freshor15driedcurryleaves1mediumaubergine,cutinto2.5cmcubes10cashewnuts1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1tablespoongoda
masala200gbasmatirice,washedanddrained2teaspoonslemonjuicesaltyogurt,shop-boughthotmangopickleandpoppadums,toserve(optional)
1Heattheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat,addthebayleavesandfryforaminuteorsountiltheybegintodarken.Addthetomatopuréeorgratedtomatoes.Cookfor1–2minutesthentipintherice.Stironce,toblenditwiththetomatoes,thenpourindoubletheamountofwaterbyvolumetotherice,stirandbringtotheboil.2Reducetheheattolow,coverandcookforabout10minutesuntilthewaterhasbeenabsorbedandthericeiscooked.Removefromtheheat,leavethericetorestfor5minutes,covered,thenremovethelid,fluffthericewithaforkandservehot.
TamaterPulao
[TOMATOPULAO]
ThissimplenorthIndianricedishisprettyandtangy,andcanbeeatensimplywithsomeyogurtforalightmeal.
Serves4PREPARATION→5minutesCOOKING25minutes
1tablespoonvegetableoil3bayleaves1tablespoontomatopuréeor2gratedfreshtomatoes200gbasmatirice,washedand
drained
1Heattheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheatandaddtheonion.Stirfor5–6minutesuntilitturnsgolden,thenaddtheasafoetidaandcurryleaves.Fryfor30seconds,thenaddtheaubergineandstir-fryuntilitstartstosoften,thenaddthecashewnutsandcookforaminuteuntilgolden.Addtheturmeric,chillipowder,godamasalaandseasontotastewithsalt.Stiracoupleoftimes,thenaddthericeandstirforacoupleofminutesuntilitbecomesopaque.2Pourindoubletheamountofwaterbyvolumetotherice.Stir,bringtotheboil,thenreducetheheattolow,coverandcookfor10minutesuntilthewaterhasbeenabsorbedandthericeiscooked.Removefromtheheatandsetaside,covered,for5minutes,beforeremovingthelid.Addthelemonjuice,fluffthericewithaforkandservehot.
KoftaPulao
[VEGETABLEPULAOWITHMEATBALLS]
Aneasyyetfestivedish,youcanstirthemeatballsintothericejustbeforeservingorsimplyplacethemontop.WhentheMughalemperorHumayunwasoustedfrompowerbySherShahSuriin1539,hewenttoPersiatoseekhelptoregainhisthrone.HereturnedgreatlyinfluencedbyPersiancultureandfood.Thepulao,aspicedricedish,wasoneofthedelicaciesintroducedtotheimperialkitchensatthistime.
Serves5PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING25minutes
2tablespoonsvegetableoil3cloves4greencardamompods,husksremovedandseedscrushed2blackcardamompods,husks
removedandseedscrushed2.5cmpieceofcinnamonstick2staranise1mediumonion,thinlysliced2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste2teaspoonstomatopurée100gmixeddicedvegetables,suchascarrots,peasandgreenbeans1teaspoonground
turmeric1teaspoongarammasala200gbasmatirice,washedanddrainedahandfulofchoppedfreshcorianderleavesForthe
meatballs150gleanlambmince1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste1freshgreenchilli,finelychoppedsalt
1Preheattheovento220ºC/gasmark7andlineabakingtraywithfoil.Mixalltheingredientsforthemeatballstogetherinalargebowl,thenformintocherry-sizedballs.Placethemeatballsonthelinedtrayandbakefor10minutes,thenremovefromtheovenandsetaside.2Meanwhile,heattheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat,addthecloves,bothcardamomseeds,cinnamonstickandstaraniseandfryuntiltheysizzle.Addtheonionandcookuntilsoft,thenstirintheginger-garlicpasteand
tomatopurée.3Addthevegetablesandthespicepowdersandstirforacoupleofminutes,thentipinthericeandfryforafurtherminuteuntilitturnsopaque.Addmostofthechoppedcorianderleaves,reservingsomeforthegarnish.4Pourindoubletheamountofwatertoricebyvolume,plus4extratablespoons,intothericeandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheat,stironce,coverandleavetocookfor10minutesuntilthewaterhasbeenabsorbedandthericeiscooked.Removefromtheheatandsetaside,covered,for5minutes.5Toserve,removethelid,gentlyfluffthericewithafork,foldinthemeatballsandsprinklewiththeremainingcoriander.
MASTERCLASS
MURGHDUMBIRYANI–NorthIndianChickenBiryani
ThewordbiryaniisderivedfromtheFarsiword‘birian’,whichmeans‘friedbeforecooking’.ItisthoughttohaveoriginatedinPersiaorArabiaandcouldhavecomeintonorthIndiaviaAfghanistan.AstheMughalsspreadtheirempire,thebiryanitravelledtovariouspartsofthecountry.TodaymanyMuslimcommunitiesinIndiahavetheirownversions,eachslightlydifferentfromtheother.TheHyderabadibiryani,wherelamb,spicesandricearecookedtogether,becamepopularduringtheruleofAsafJahI,whowasEmperorAurangzeb’sdeputytotheregion.IntheLucknowibiryani,thericeandmeatarecookedseparatelythenlayeredandfinishedbythedumpukhtmethod(seehere).WhentherulerofAwadh,WajidAliShah,wasexiledbytheBritish,hemovedtoCalcuttaandanewversionofthebiryaniwascreated,usingmorepotatoesandlessmeatforthepoorerresidentsofthecity.
Serves6–8PREPARATION→40minutesCOOKING1½hours
YOUWILLNEED:3tablespoonswholemilklargepinchofsaffron4tablespoonsrosewater3tablespoonsghee3largeonions,thinlysliced2tablespoonsginger-garlicpaste3freshgreenchillies,chopped2tablespoonstomatopurée600gskinlesschickenbreast,diced1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongarammasala300gbasmatirice,washedanddrainedahandfuloffreshmintleaves,choppeda
handfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped3tablespoonsflakedalmondssalt6–8hard-boiledeggs,toserveForthebouquetgarni10greencardamompods5blackcardamompods12blackpeppercornssmallcinnamonstick10cloves
afewshavingsofnutmeg1teaspoonfennelseeds3bayleaves
1Crushtheseedsof5ofthegreencardamompodsandalltheblackcardamompodsinapestleandmortaranddiscardthehusks.
2Putthebouquetgarnispices(exceptthe5wholegreencardamompods)inapanwith500mlhotwaterandbringtotheboil.Removefromtheheat,coverthepanandleavetosteep.Thisisthesavouryaromaliquid.
3Finelycrushthereservedcardamompodsinapestleandmortar(discardingthehusk)andmixwiththemilk,saffronandrosewater.Setaside.Thisisthesweetaromaliquid.
4Preheattheovento220ºC/gasmark7.
5Heat1tablespoonofthegheeinaheavy-basedfryingpan,addtheonionsandfryfor8–10minutesuntilbrownandcrisp.Removehalftheonionsandreserveforthegarnish.Addtheginger-garlicpasteandchilliesandstirfor2minutes,thenaddthetomatopuréeandcookforafurther2minutes.Transferthemixturetoablender,addenoughcoldwatertocoverandblitzuntilsmooth.
6Heatanothertablespoonofthegheeinthepanandfrythechickenfor5–6minutes.(Ifmakingavegetablebiryani,add300gmixed,cookedvegetables,suchascarrots,peasandpotatoes,tothepanhere.)7Addthepowderedspicesandseasonwithsalt.Cookfor2minutesuntilthespiceshaveturneddark,thenaddthepuréefromtheblenderandstir.Mixwell,add100mlwaterandsimmerforafewminutesuntilthechickeniscooked.Removefromheatandsetaside.
8Heattheremaininggheeinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat.Addthericeandfryforafewminutes,untilshiny,thenstrainthree-quartersofthesavouryaromaliquidintothepan.Seasonwithsalt,stironce,bringto
theboil,thenreducetheheat,coverandcookforabout10minutesuntiltheliquidhasbeenabsorbed.
9It’stimetoassemblethedish.Thebottomandtoplayersarealwaysrice.Putalayerofriceatthebottomofa25–30cmdeepovenproofdish.Sprinkleoversomeoftheremainingsavouryliquidandsomesweetaromaliquid,thencoverthericewithalayerofthecurry.Sprinklesomeofthefriedonions,mintleavesandcorianderleavesoverthecurrythentopwithanotherlayerofrice.Repeatuntileverythingisusedupandthetoplayerisrice.Sprinklewiththealmondsandfreshcoriander.Sealthedishwithfoil.
10Putthebiryaniintheovenfor40minutes,reducingtheoventemperatureto190ºC/gasmark5after20minutes.Removefromtheoven,uncover,decoratewithhalvedhard-boiledeggsandserve.
MungDalKhichdi
[SOFTRICEANDLENTILSWITHSPICES]
Akhichdiisconsideredawarmingcomfortfoodor,ifmorevigorouslyspicedasinWestBengal,itisofferedasblessedfoodintemplesoratreligiousfeasts.TheBritishfishandeggkedgereeisaderivative,althoughanIndiankhichdiisalwaysvegetarian.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING35minutes
1tablespoonvegetableoilorghee5cloves10blackpeppercorns1bayleaf½teaspooncuminseeds4tablespoonssplitmungdal,washedanddrained½teaspoon
groundturmeric200gshort-/medium-grainrice,washedanddrainedsaltnaturalyogurt,toserve
1Heatthevegetableoilorgheeinalargeheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat,addthecloves,peppercorns,bayleafandcuminseedsandfryforabout1minuteuntilthearomafillsthekitchen.Reducetheheattomedium,addthemungdalandfryforacoupleofminutesuntilthegrainslookshiny.2Addtheturmeric,riceand600mlboilingwater.Seasonwithsaltandbringbacktotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerforabout30minutes,stirringandaddingmorehotwaterasnecessary,untilthericeiscreamyandverysoft.Thisdishwillbequitemoist,likearisotto,whichonlyincreasesitsdigestibility.Servewithnaturalyogurtontheside.
SubziyonKiTahiri
[SPICEDNORTHINDIANRICEANDVEGETABLEMEDLEY]
Atraditionaltahiriortahariissimilartoapulao,thoughitisvegetarianandslightlymorespiced.ItwascreatedinMughaltimesforHinducourtiersbysubstitutingthemeatinabiryaniwithpotatoes.Withtime,morevegetableswereadded,buteventoday,atahiriisincompletewithoutpotatoes.
Serves4PREPARATION→25minutesCOOKING45minutes
vegetableoil,fordeep-frying100gmixeddicedvegetables,suchaspotatoes,cauliflowerandaubergine1largeonion,thinlysliced
2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste2freshgreenchillies,minced½teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongarammasala200gbasmatirice,washedanddrainedahandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,choppedsalt
1Heatenoughoiltoaccommodateasinglelayerofvegetablesinadeepfryingpanoverahighheat.Deep-frythevegetables:first,thecauliflowerandpotatoes,for6–7minutes,thentransferthesetodrainonkitchenpaperandfrytheaubergineinthesameoilfor3–4minutesuntilgolden.Removewithaslottedspoonanddrainonkitchenpaper,seasonwithsaltandsetaside.2Carefullyscoop1tablespoonofthehotoilintoasaucepanoverahighheat,addtheonionandfryfor5–6minutesuntilbrowned.Addtheginger-garlicpaste,chillies,turmericandgarammasalaandfryfor1minutebeforeaddingtherice.Addtherice,fryfor1minuteuntilitturnsopaque,thenpourindoublethevolumeofwatertotherice.Bringtotheboil,thenreducetheheattolow,stironce,coverandcookfor10minutesuntilthewaterhasbeenabsorbedandthericeiscooked.Removefromtheheat,setasidefor5minutes,covered,thenremovethelidandflufftherice.
3Gentlyfoldinthefriedvegetables,sprinklewiththecorianderandservehot.
HyderabadiKucchiBiryani
[SLOW-COOKEDBIRYANI]
Inthisdish,marinatedrawmeat(goatisthemeatthat’spredominantlyusedalloverIndia)iscookedwiththericeinlayers.Thesealingofthepotmakesthedishmoistandfragrant.
Serves4PREPARATION→20minutes,plus3hoursmarinatingtimeCOOKING1hour
2tablespoonsvegetableoilorghee3largeonions,thinlysliced1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste
1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongroundturmeric2teaspoonsgarammasala5cmpieceofrawpapaya,crushedtoapaste150gnaturalyogurt400glambonthebone,cutintosmalldice200gbasmatirice,washedanddrainedsmall
cinnamonstick2greencardamompods,bruised3cloves1tablespoonghee,meltedahandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped2pinchesofsaffron,dissolvedin1tablespoon
warmmilk3tablespoonswholemealflour,mixedwithenoughwatertomakeastiffdoughsalt
1Heattheoilorgheeinaheavy-basedsaucepanorpotoverahighheat,addtheonionsandfryforabout8minutesuntiltheyarecrispandbrown.Drainandsetaside.2Tomakethemarinade,combinetheginger-garlicpaste,chillipowder,turmeric,garammasala,rawpapayapasteandyogurtinabowlandseasonwithalittlesalt.Addthelamb,mixtocoatitinthemarinadeandsetasidefor3hours.3Putthericeinapanwiththecinnamonstick,cardamompodsandclovesandadd800mlwater.Seasonwithsaltandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmer,uncovered,for5minutes(thericewilljustbepartiallycooked).Drain
inacolander.4Startassemblingthedish.Putthemarinatedmeatintheheavy-basedsaucepanalongwithallthemarinadeandhalfofthemeltedghee.Sprinkleoversomeofthechoppedcorianderandsomeofthefriedonions.Spreadthericeoverthis.Drizzleovertheremaininggheeandsaffronalongwiththemilk.5Rollthedoughintoacylinderandplaceitaroundtheedgeofthesaucepan.Placealidontoptosealittightlysothatnosteamescapes.Cookoverahighheatfor6–8minutesuntilyoucanhearasizzlefromthepan,thenreducetheheattolow(aslowasitwillgo)andcookfor45minutes.6Onceyouhaveremovedthepanfromtheheat,leavethebiryanitorest,thenremovethelid,discardthepastryandmixgentlywithaforktocombinetherice,meatandspices.Servehot,garnishedwiththeremainingfriedonionsandcoriander.
KolmiBhaat
[PRAWNPULAO]
Oneofmyfavouritedishes,thispulaogetscookedonaregularbasisinmyhome.It’sasimpleone-potmealandthesweetnessoftheprawnsisperfectlycomplementedbythechilliesandthetangoftomato.BuythebestprawnsyoucanaffordandyouwillhavethetasteofMumbai’sbeachesonyourplate.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING25minutes
2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspooncuminseeds1largeonion,finelychopped1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste2freshgreenchillies,finelychopped2tablespoonstomatopurée150grawprawns,shelledanddeveined200gbasmatirice,washedanddrained1teaspoon
groundturmeric1teaspoongroundcorianderahandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,choppedsalt
1Warmtheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheatandaddthecuminseeds.Whentheystarttodarken,addtheonionandcookfor5–6minutesuntilsoft.Addtheginger-garlicpasteandthechillies.Fryfor1minutethenaddthetomatopurée.Cookforafurtherminute,addtheprawnsandstiragain.2Tipintherice,groundturmericandcoriander.Stironce,seasonwithsaltandstirinhalfthecorianderleaves.Cookfor2minutes.3Pourindoubletheamountofwaterbyvolumetothericeandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheattolow,coverandcookfor10minutesuntilthewaterhasbeenabsorbedandthericeiscooked.Removefromtheheatandsetasidefor5minutes,covered,beforeremovingthelid.4Removethelidandfluffthericewithafork,beforeservingwiththeremaining
corianderleavessprinkledontop.
PudinaPulao
[MINTANDCUMIN-FLAVOUREDRICE]
Thisisaneasybutstunningentertainingcentrepiece,withalltheflavouroffreshmint.Youcanomitthegreenchilliesifyouwantamilddish,oryoucanserveitwithacreamyraita.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING25minutes
alargehandfuloffreshmintleaves1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste2freshgreenchillies1tablespoonvegetableoilorghee1teaspooncuminseeds200gbasmatirice,washedanddrainedsaltcreamyraita,toserve(optional)
1Putthemint,ginger-garlicpasteandchilliesinablenderwithalittlewaterandblitztoformasmoothpurée.Transferthepuréetothejugusedformeasuringthericeandtopitupwithenoughwatertomakedoublethevolumeofrice.2Warmtheoilorgheeinasaucepanoverahighheatandaddthecuminseeds.Fryforafewsecondsuntiltheystarttoturndark,thenaddtherice,seasonwithsaltandfryforaminuteuntilitturnsopaque.Addthepuréedmintmixture,stironce,bringtotheboil,thenreducetheheattolow,coverandcookfor10minutes,untilthewaterhasbeenabsorbedandthericeiscooked.Removefromtheheat,coverandsetasidefor5minutes.3Removethelid,fluffthericewithaforkandservehotwithacreamyraitaalongside,ifyoulike.
Mosaranna
[SOFTRICEWITHYOGURT,CUCUMBER,CARROTANDSPICES]
ThisdishisfoundalloversouthIndiawhereamealalwaysendswithaservingof‘curdrice’.InKarnatakaitiscalledMosaranna,whereasinnearbyTamilNaduitiscalledTayirSadam.
Serves4PREPARATION→5minutesCOOKING25minutes
200gshort-grainrice,washedanddrained100mlsemi-skimmedmilk100gnaturalyogurt1tablespoonvegetableoil1teaspoonblackmustardseeds1teaspooncuminseedspinchofasafoetida8freshor12driedcurryleaves¼cucumber,peeledandfinelydiced1smallcarrot,peeled
andgratedpinchofcastersugar½teaspoonfinelygratedfreshrootgingersaltshop-boughtspicymangopickleorAubergineChutney,toserve(optional)
1Putthericeanddoubletheamountofwaterbyvolumeinaheavy-basedsaucepanandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheattolow,stironce,coverandcookfor10minutesuntilthewaterhasbeenabsorbedandthericeiscooked.Removefromtheheat,coverandleavetorestfor5minutes.2Removethelidandgentlyfluffthericewithaforktoloosenit.Lightlymashthericewithapotatomasherandmixinthemilk.Transfertothefridgetocool.Whenthericeiscold,stirintheyogurt.3Warmtheoilinasmallpanoverahighheatandfrythemustardseedsforafewminutesuntiltheybegintopop.Addthecuminseeds,asafoetidaandcurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter),fryforafewseconds,thenstirthemixtureintotherice.4Stirthecucumber,carrot,sugarandgingerintothericeandseasontotastewithsalt.ServecoldwithspicymangopickleorAubergineChutney,ifyoulike.
MushroomPulao
[RICEWITHMUSHROOMSANDCUMIN]
WeneverhadmushroomsinmychildhoodhomeasmygrandmothersaidtheywereAyurvedically‘tamasic’or‘lackinginpositiveenergy’,becausetheygrewindark,dankplaces.Ilovethemnowandhaveusedchestnutmushroomsinthisrecipe.Theyhaveanuttierflavourandshrinkless,astheycontainlesswaterthanwhitemushrooms,butyoucanusewhicheverkindyouhavetohand.
Serves4PREPARATION→5minutesCOOKING25minutes
2tablespoonsvegetableoil2tablespoonsunsaltedcashewnuts½teaspooncuminseeds6–7chestnutmushrooms,cleanedandthicklysliced½teaspoongroundturmeric200gbasmatirice,washedanddrainedsalt
1Heattheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat,addthecashewnutsandfryforacoupleofminutesuntilgolden.Removethenutsfromtheoilandsetaside.2Addthecuminseedstotheoilandfryuntiltheybegintodarken,thenaddthemushroomsandturmeric.Tipinthericeandseasonwithsalt.Stirgentlyfor1minuteuntilthericeturnsopaque.3Pourindoublethevolumeofwatertorice,stironceandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheattolow,coverandcookforabout10minutesuntilthewaterhasbeenabsorbedandthericeiscooked.Removefromtheheat,leavethericetorestfor5minutes,covered,thenremovethelid,fluffthericewithaforkandservesprinkledwiththefriedcashewnuts.
KovilPulihodarai
[TAMARINDRICE]
ThereareseveralversionsofthisdishinsouthIndiabutthisisthemostpopularandclosesttothatservedas‘prasadam’orblessedfoodintemples.
Serves4PREPARATION→30minutes,plus20minutessoakingtimeCOOKING30minutes
200gbasmatirice,washedanddrained2tablespoonsvegetableoil½teaspoonblackmustardseedslargepinchofasafoetida4driedredchillies,deseededandcrumbled1teaspoongramlentils(chanadal),soakedin
waterfor20minutesanddrained2teaspoonscashewnuts10freshor15driedcurryleaves1teaspoongroundturmericlime-sizedblockoftamarind,dilutedin6tablespoonsofwater,squashed,thenpassed
throughasievetoextractthepulp(discardtheseeds)or5tablespoonstamarindpulporshop-boughttamarindpaste(notconcentrate)salt
Forthespiceblend½teaspoonfenugreekseeds8blackpeppercorns1teaspooncorianderseeds3driedredchillies,splitandseedsshakenout1teaspoonwhitesesameseeds,toasted
1Tomakethespicepowder,dry-toastthefenugreekseeds,peppercorns,corianderseedsandredchilliesinasmallfryingpanuntiltheychangecolour.Tipintoaspicemillorpestleandmortar,addthesesameseedsandgrindtoapowder.2Putthericeanddoubletheamountofwaterbyvolumeinaheavy-basedsaucepanandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheat,stironce,coverandcookfor10minutesuntilthewaterhasbeenabsorbed.Removefromtheheatandsetaside,covered.3Heattheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat,addthemustardseeds,asafoetida,crumbledchillies,drainedlentils,cashewnutsandcurryleavesandfryforacoupleofminutes.Whenthecashewnutshaveturnedgolden,stirintheturmericandthespicepowderfromStep1.Seasonwithsalt,addthe
tamarindpulpandcookforafewminutesuntilitthickensslightly.4Foldthericeintothespicepasteandservehot.
Parsi-styleBrownRice
[RICEWITHFRIEDONIONSANDCARAMEL]
TheParsiscametoIndiafromIranaroundtheeighthcenturyastheyfledfromreligiouspersecution.TheyarrivedonthewestcoastofIndia,makingtheirhomeinGujaratandSind.TheircuisineisafabulousmixofIndian,PersianandEuropeanstyles.ThisisasignaturedishandiseatenwithDhansak,thefamousspicedlentilandvegetablecurryandafreshonionsalad.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING35minutes
200gbasmatirice,washedanddrained1teaspooncastersugar2tablespoonsvegetableoil2smallcinnamonsticks3cloves1largeonion,thinlyslicedsalt
1Measuredoublethevolumeofwatertoriceinajug.2Putthesugarandateaspoonofwaterinalargesaucepanandsetoverahighheatuntilthesugardissolves.Reducetheheattomediumandcontinuecookinguntilthesugarcaramelisestoarichgoldencolour.Removefromtheheat,standbackandslowlypourinthewaterfromthejug.Itwillbubblefuriouslysobecareful.Mixwellsothatyougetawarmbrownliquid.Setaside.3Heattheoilinasaucepanoverahighheatandaddthecinnamonsticksandcloves.Astheoilheatsup,theywillbegintosizzleanddevelopanaroma.Addtheonionandcookoverahighheatfor5–6minutes,stirring,untilitstartstoturngolden.Reducetheheattomediumandcontinuecookingfor7–8minutesuntilitdevelopsadeepbrowncolour.
4Tipinthericeandfryforacoupleofminutesuntilitturnsopaque,thenpourinthecaramelliquidandseasonwithsalt.5Bringtotheboil,stironce,thenreducetheheattolow,coverandcookfor10minutesuntilthewaterhasbeenabsorbedandthericeiscooked.Removefromtheheat,leavethericetorestfor5minutes,covered,thenremovethelid,fluffthericewithaforkandservehot.
PeshwariNaansGarlicNaansRavaUttapamPalakPooriKheemeKeParathaBajreKiBhakriMakkiKiRotiPesarattuBesanKiRotiThalipeethBhaturaNeerDosaAppamsPaalaadaAdaiPakwan
INDIANSUSEAVASTNUMBEROFFLOURSTOMAKEBREADSSUCHASROTISANDPARATHAS,FORBULKINGANDTHICKENINGCURRIESASINTHESPICEDYOGURT
‘KADHI’,ANDFORBINDINGFOODSSUCHASONIONBHAJIASANDPAKORAS.
Wheatisthemostcommongraintobecrushedintoflour.ArchaeologicalsurveyshavefoundthatitwasusedintheIndiansubcontinentsincetheIndusValleycivilisation(3300BC–1700BC).AncientIndianscriptsincludingtheRigveda(oneoftheoldestsurvivingtextsknowntoman)mentiontheuseofwheatflourinvariousforms,includingbeingmixedwithmilk,friedingheeandspicedwithcardamom,pepperandginger.Barleyandriceflourswerealsoused.
Regionaldifferencesplayanimportantrole:thecuisineinsomepartsofthecountry,suchasthesouthandthenortheast,isrice-based,whereasinPunjabitiswheat-based.Thisisnottosaythatthesouthdoesnoteatrotis,butmostmealsarebasedaroundaricepreparation.
Indianslovebreadsthatareleavened,suchasnaan,unleavenedsuchasroti,orWestern-styleslicedbread.EuropeanbreadswereintroducedintoIndiaaboutthreecenturiesago,mainlybythePortuguese.Their‘pao’,asmallbun,isstilleatenwithcurriesoracrushedvegetablestreetsnackcalled‘pao-bhaji’.EarlyZoroastrians(whocamefromIran)setupbakeriesusingtheIraniantechniqueofusing‘khamir’orthefermentedyeastthatwentintomakingasourdoughbread.Iranicafés,whichtheZoroastriansstartedandwhicharesadlyindeclinenow,sellahard,crustyversioncalled‘brun’thatisbutteredandeatendippedinsweettea.TheseEuropean-stylebreadsarenotmadeathomebecausemostIndiankitchensdonotneedandthereforedonothaveWestern-styleovens.Bakeriesinmostcitiesprovidethem,andslicedbreadismadeinlargefactoriesonacommercialscaleandsoldinshopsalloverthecountry.
MillingofgrainhasbeencarriedoutintheIndiansubcontinentforthousandsofyears.TheearliestmillsfoundintheIndusValleyCivilisation(3300–1700BC)excavationswereoftwotypes–oneflatandcircular,theother,alargestonewithacentralshallowdepressionthatcouldholdgraintobecrushedwitharoundedstoneheldinonehand.VersionsofthesemillsarestillseeninIndianhomestoday.Anothertypeofcrusherthatwascommonwasthegiantmortar,whichwasusedstandingupwiththelong,heavypoundingpestleheldinboth
whichwasusedstandingupwiththelong,heavypoundingpestleheldinbothhands.ThisinstrumentisdescribedinearlyTamilliteratureofthethirdcenturyAD.InsouthernIndia,too,excavationsofsitesdatingfromthesecondcenturyBCEhaveuncoveredpestlesandmortarsaswellasmillingstones.
Homemilling:Indaysgoneby,everykitcheninwheat-growingareashada‘chakki’tomillthewheat.Thiswasmadeoftwoheavyroundstoneplates7.5–10cmthick.Thelowerplatewasfixedwhilethetopplatecouldberotated.Bothwereheldtogetherbyaspindleandontopwasareceptacleholetofeedthewheatin.Asthetopplatewasrotated,thewheatwascrushedbetweentheplatesandmovedtotheouteredgesandcouldthenbecollected.
Chakkimilling:Asachild,Iwasfascinatedhoweveryhouseholdwouldbuywheatfromthegrocer,cleanitofminorimpuritiesathomeandtakeittothenearest‘chakki’ormilltohaveitcrushedintoflour.Wewouldhelpwiththissiftingandcleaningasitmadeusfeelverygrownup!Thesechakkisalsohadmillsforspices.Todaycitykitchensbuybagsofready-madeflour,butinsmallertownsandvillages,takingwheattothechakkiisstillaregulardomestictask.
Commercialmilling:Fromthelate1800smillspoweredbyoilandthenbyelectricityspreadthroughIndiaandwereusedtode-huskpaddy.
WheatFlours
Atta→AlthoughwheathasbeengrowninIndiaforhundredsofyears,todaytwomajorvarietiesareusedtomakewholewheatflouror‘atta’.Thesearethehard‘durum’andthesemi-hardvarietycalled‘aestivum’.Hardwheathasahighglutencontent,whichgivesdoughitselasticityandthereforemakesiteasiertorolloutthinlyintochapattis.Tomakeatta,theouterhuskofthegrainisremoved,leavingbehindthreelayers–thebran,theendospermandthegerm.Branisessentiallyfibre,theendospermisstarchandthegermisprotein.Thesearecoarselygroundtomakeatta,whichisprimarilyusedtomakerotisorchapattisandsimilarflatbreads.Bagsofattaareoftenlabelledonthebasisoftheiruse,aschapattiflour.Therearemanyvarietiesofatta,suchasbrownormedium,andtheseusuallyindicatetheamountofbranorthecoarsenessoftheflour.Manybagsmentiontheword‘chakki’,meaningstone-milled.
Maida→Thebranisremovedandthestarchyendospermofthegrainismilledandbleachedtomakethisrefinedflourthatisfinerandpalerthanatta.Asitisquitefine,itismostlyusedforrecipesthatrequireasofttexture.Certainbreadslikeroomaliroti,literally‘handkerchiefbread’ornaanaremadeofmaida,asisthecrispshortenedpastryforsavourysamosas.
Dalia(BulgarWheat)→Thisiscrackedwheatanditresemblesgrits.Itisalsoknownaslapsi,bulghurwheatorfada.Fineandcoarseversionsarecookedintoasweetporridgecalled‘kheer’orusedtomakehotsnacks.
Rava/Sooji(Semolina)→Whenwheatismilledtoresemblesand,itiscalledrava,soojiorsemolina.Thereareseveralvarietiesavailableandtheyallresultindifferenttexturesinthefinaldish.ExtracoarseandcoarseravaisgrittyanddelightfullynuttyandisusedforpuddingsorasavourysouthIndiandishcalled‘upma’.Fineravaisalsousedforpuddings,tocreateacrustonfriedfishandseafood,oraddedtoshortenedpastryforextracrispness.TheyallfeatureinoneofIndia’sbest-loveddesserts,variouslycalled‘sheera’,‘soojikahalwa’or‘ravakesari’.
RiceFlour
Thisismadefrompolished,brokenriceandisusedineverydaycookingmostlyinthesouthandinGujarat.Itismixedwithwaterorcoconutmilktomakeagluten-freebatterforpancakescalleddosas,madeintoadoughorusedtothickenmilkydesserts.
Bajra(Millet)Flour
Bajra,bajriormilletflourismadefromasmallroundgrainthatresemblesmustardseed.Itisearthyandnuttyinflavourwithaslightlysweetaftertaste.Indiansconsiderithealthyasitcontainsmanyvitalnutrients,suchasiron,aswellasfibre.Densebajrarotiscalled‘bhakris’areeatenbyfarmersinMaharashtra,oftenwithawedgeofonionandgarlicandchillichutney.Althoughseenaspoorman’sfood,theyareconsideredadelicacywheneatenwithadollopofhomemadebutter.
Bajraflourtendstorequireabindingagentwhilebeingmadeintoadough,sosometimesalittlericeflourisadded.Itisoftenpattedintoshapebymoistenedhandsratherlikemouldingclay.Ifthedoughisdry,itwillcrackanditisforthisreasonthatitisnotrolledlikewheatflourrotis.
Makai(Maize)Flour
ThisiscalledmakaiormakkiflourinIndia.Driedcornissoakedinlimesolutionorslaked,thenhulled.ThedampcornisthenmilledintoaslightlycoarseflourwhichisusedtomakebreadssuchasPunjab’sfamous‘makkikiroti’,aflat,unleavenedcornbread,orisusedasathickenerincurriesandvegetabledisheslike‘sarsonkasaag’,aPunjabidelicacyofseasonalmustardgreenscookedwithspicesandeatenwithhomemadeghee.TheveryfinecornflourusedinothercountrieshaslimiteduseintraditionalIndiancookery,althoughitisanessentialingredientinthespicyhybridIndo-Chinesefoodthatcombineselementsofbothcuisines.
LentilFlours
LentilsarefoundineveryIndiankitchen.Asflours,theyareusedtothicken,bind,coatandaddcrispnesstodishes.
Besan(Gram)Flour→Gramflourismadebymillingdriedchickpeas.Itisnutty,proteinrichandglutenfree.Gluten-freepancakesaremadefromathickbatterofbesanandwater.
Besanisusedtomakesweetslike‘laddoos’,whereitisroastedinghee,sweetenedwithsugarandpressedintoballsthatwillkeepfordays.SindhiKadhi,asavouryvegetablecurry,hasabaseofbesanandtomatoes.Pakorasaremadebydippingvegetables,paneer,fishorchickenintoaseasonedbesanbatterbeforedeep-fryingthem.
MungFlour→Thisismadefrommungbeansandisalsocalledgreenbeanflour.Itislighterthanotherpulsefloursandisusedtomakedosasandforpoppadumsorpapads.Adoughismadewithmungflourandwater,spicedandseasoned,thenrolledoutintothindiscs.InanIndianhome,thesediscsaresun-driedforlateruse.MosturbanIndianstodayhaveneitherthetimenortheresourcesintheformofasunnyrooforcourtyardtodrytheirownpoppadumsandreadilybuycommerciallymadeonesinstead,inanassortmentofflavours.
UradFlour→Uradoruridbeansareblackincolourbutoncepeeled,theyrevealacreamywhiteinterior.Thesecream-colouredbeansaremilledtoformtheflourwhichisusedtomakevariouskindsofdosas.
Itissometimessoldas‘maptebeanflour’or‘papadflour’asitislargelyusedtomakepoppadums,or‘papads’astheyarecalledovermostofIndia.Beingglutenfree,dosasmadewithuradflourcanbeagoodsubstituteforwheatrotis.
FlourMixes→Indiangrocersoftenofferavarietyofmixedflours.Thesearesoldblendedforeaseofuseandtosavethecooksometime.Examplesare‘idliflour’tomakesteamedsouthIndianricecakescalledidlis,‘dhoklaflour’tomakesavouryriceandlentilcakes,or‘dosaflour’whichhasthesameingredientsas‘idliflour’butindifferentproportions.
HOWTOSTOREFLOURSItisbesttostoreallfloursinadry,well-ventilatedcupboardfornomorethan6monthsorso.Moisturecanmakeitclumpyandkeepingittoolongmaygiverisetoinsects,suchasweevils,whichliveindryfood.
Typesofflour–1Atta;2Bajra;3Besan;4Rice;5Dalia.
Typesofflour–6Rava/Sooji;7Urad;8Maize;9Mung;10Maida.
ROTISANDCHAPATTIS
RotisareIndia’severydaybread.ThewordcomesfromtheSanskrit‘rotika’andtheword‘chapatti’possiblycomesfromHindiword‘chappat’meaningflat.Bothrotiandchapattiareusedinterchangeably,withonebeinginmorepopularinsomepartsofthecountrythantheother.
Arotiisaflat,unleavenedbreadmadeofstonegroundwholemealwheatflourcalledatta.Theword‘chapatti’hasbeenmentionedintheAin-i-Akbari,asixteenth-centurytreatisewrittenbyAbu’l-FazlibnMubarakontheworkingsoftheMughalemperorAkbar’scourt:‘Thethinkindisbakedonanironplate.Onesérwillgivefifteen,orevenmore.Therearevariouswaysofmakingit:onekindiscalledchapatti,whichissometimesmadeofkhushkah;ittastesverywell,whenservedhot.Forthebreadusedatcourt,onemanofwheatismadetoyield½m.offineflour;2s.coarselypoundedflour;andtherestbran;ifthisdegreeoffinenessbenotrequired,theproportionsarealtered.’
Rotisdifferinsizeandthicknessfromoneregiontoanother,andtheyalsohavevariousnames,dependingontheirthicknessorthemethodofcooking.Theyareusedtomopupcurrysaucesortotransferfoodfromtheplatetothemouth.Typically,PunjabirotisaredenserandthickerthanGujarati‘rotlees’orMaharashtrian‘polis’,whicharethinanddelicate.Mostrotisarecookedonaflatorslightlyconvexgriddlepancalledthe‘tava’or‘tawa’.
From1833to1920,asmillionsofIndiansweretakentodifferentEuropeancoloniesasindenturedlabourerstoworkonsugarplantationsortobuildrailways,therotitravelledtonewshoresandbecamepopularinvariousforms–as‘rooti’inSouthAfrica,‘roticanai’inMalaysia,‘sadaroti’madewithplainflourinTrinidad,and‘dhalpoori’madewithlentilsinMauritius.Todaymanyformsexist,aswrapsorfilledwithpotatoesormeattrimmings(asintheamusingandcheap‘piperroti’servedinTrinidadandTobagowhereapiperisadrugaddictwithlittlemoneytobuyfood).
Rotiscookedinacoal-firedclayovenarecalled‘tandooriroti’.TheseareusuallyeateninPunjabwhereonefindstheseovensandnotalloverIndiaasmanypeoplethink.Thetandoorirotiismadewithwholewheatattaandismuch
thickerandchewierthanagriddle-bakedroti.‘Phulkas’arerotiscookeddirectlyonanopenflameoroncoalsafterbeing
lightlysealedonatava.The‘roomaliroti’isanextremelythin,softrotimadeofamixtureofattaand
maidathatisservedfoldedandisapartofNorthIndianMughlaicookery.Theword‘roomali’referstohandkerchief(roomal)andtherotiismadebytossingthedoughhighupintheairtostretchit.SpecialistchefsatMughlairestaurantsmakequiteashowoftheirskillasitisanarttomakethisrestaurantbread.ItiscookedontheconvexsideofanIndiangriddlepanortava.
POORISThisfestivebreadismadewithasimilardoughtorotisbutusesabitmoreoiltobringitalltogether.Thenoilisusedtorollthemout,muchsmallerthanrotis,afterwhichtheyaredeep-frieduntilpuffedandgolden.Poorisareconsideredindulgentandarethereforeoftenservedatweddingsandcelebrations.Theyaresometimesflavouredorstuffed,asin‘dalpoori’,madewithlentils.Small,bite-sized,crispversionsarefriedandfilledwithsweetandsourtamarindwatertomakeoneofIndia’sfavouritestreetfoods,variouslycalled‘pani-puri’,‘golguppe’,‘batasha’or‘phuchka’.
PARATHASPopularinPunjabandnearbyregions,parathasaremadewithrotidoughbutarecookedingheeoroilandarelayeredbreads.Theycanbestuffedwithpotatoesasin‘alookeparonthe’orwithcauliflower,mooli(daikonradish),meatorpaneer.Theyareheavyandareofteneatenforbreakfastinthenorth.Thesouthalsohasitsversions.The‘malabarparotta’ofKeralaisalayered,fluffybreadthatiseatenwithlusciouscoconutcurries.
MASTERCLASS
MAKINGADOUGH
InspiteofrotibeingIndia’sfavouritebread,madedailyinmanyhomes,itisquitetrickytogetthedoughrightandrolloutcircleswhenyoufirststart.WhenImademyfirstrotiattheageofaroundtwelve,itlookedlikeacrossbetweenAustraliaandSriLankaandItrulybelievedthatIwouldnevergetitright.Thismademegiveuproti-makinguntilIwenttocateringcollegeafewyearslater!
1Usegood-qualityatta.Askaroundforagoodbrand–thiswillbeslightlymoreexpensiveastheyhaveprobablyusedgood-qualitywheatwithenoughgluten.
2Indiancooksuseonehandtokneadthedoughinthebowlwhiletheotherisusedtopourinwaterandholdthebowlfirmly.Europeancooksusebothhandstoknead.
3Usetepidwater.Itisdifficulttocalculateexactlyhowmuchwaterwillbeneededforaparticulardough–factorssuchasthequalityoftheflour,thehardnessorsoftnessofthewater(themineralsaltsinmildlyhardwaterreinforcethegluten)andtemperatureinthekitchencanallmakeadifferencetotheamountneeded.Asaroughguide,for200gflouryouneed100–125mlwater.
4Startbypouringinenoughwatertocreateabreadcrumbtexture.
5Bringthedoughtogetherfirmlybutnotusingtoomuchpressure.Ifyouneedtoforceit,itisstilltoodry.Keepaddingwater,alittleatatime,untilthedoughformsaballwhenpressedtogether.Itshouldfeelslightlystickyatthispoint.
6Thisstepisthesecrettomakingsoftrotis.Kneadthedoughonalightlyflouredsurfacefor5–8minutes.Themoreyouknead,thebetterthe
dough.Makesuretousepressure,usingyourknucklesandthebaseofyourpalmtostretchthedough.Caressingitwon’twork!Youaretryingtostretchtheglutenstrandstocreatethecorrecttexture,sobefirm.Thefinaldoughshouldbespringyandnotstickysokeepkneadinguntilthedoughisasslackasitcanbeinordertorollitout.
7Ifyouhaveaddedtoomuchwaterandthedoughisstickingtoyourfingers,addmoreflourtocorrectthis.Awetdoughisdifficulttorollandyouwillendupusingtoomuchdustingflourthatwillburnasaresidueinahotpan.
8Ifyouhaveaddedtoolittlewaterandthedoughfeelshard,moistenyourhandsandkeepworkingthedough,sprinklingoverabitofwatertostretchit.
9Somepeopleaddafewdropsofoil(vegetableorsimilar)tothedoughwhenit’sbeingkneaded.Thiscanhelptosoftenit.
10Restthedoughinthebowlfor10minutes–abitlongerifyoucan.Coveritwithaclean,dampteatowelorlooselywithclingfilm.(Wrappingittightlyinclingfilmmaymakeitsweatandbecomesticky.)
11Oncemade,youcanbrushtherotiswithalittleoilorghee.Ifmakingtheminadvance,wraptheminateatoweltoabsorbthesteamandstopthemfrombecomingsoggy.Reheatwhenyou’reready.
12Leftoverdoughcanbestoredinanairtightcontainerinthefridgeforupto2days.
ROLLINGROTIS
1Usethecorrectrollingpin.Indianpinsaretaperedsothattheydon’texerttoomuchpressureandallowyoutorolltherotifromthecentreouttocreateaneatcircle.Thethicknessshouldbeevensodon’tbetemptedtogoovertheedgesinordertomakeaperfectcircle.
2AnIndiankitchenwillhaveacircularrollingboardasatemplatefortheshape.
3Useatava,griddlepanorafryingpanbutmakesurethatitisnon-stickor
havebeenseasonedbyprevioususe.Thepanmustbeveryhotsothattherotisealsassoonasitisplacedonit.
4Quickcookingatahightemperatureallowsthewaterinthedoughtoturntosteamandpufftheroti,makingitsoft.Overcookingwillresultinacrisporleatheryroti!
MASTERCLASS
ROTIS/CHAPATTIS–UnleavenedFlatbreads
Itendnottosaltmyrotisastheyarealwaysgoingtobeeatenwithsomethingsavouryorsweet.Indianchildrenaresometimesgivenarotiwithjamorafragrantmixofgheeandgranulatedsugarasaquicksnack.Theyareoftencookedfreshasthefamilyiseating,andinthisinstancetheydonotneedtobebrushedwithoil.Butyoucanbrushthemwithoilifyouaremakingabatchinadvance,tokeepthemsoft.
Makes10rotisPREPARATION→15minutes,plusrestingtimeCOOKING20minutes
YOUWILLNEED:300gstonegroundwholewheatflour(atta),plusextrafordusting150–175mltepid
water,asneededvegetableoil,forbrushing(optional)
1Placetheflourinabowland,usingyourfingers,graduallymixinthetepidwateruntilyouhaveapliabledough.Kneadonalightlyflouredsurfacefor5–8minutes(themoreyoukneadthedough,thesoftertherotis),thenleavethedoughtorestfor10minutesinthebowlunderaclean,dampteatowel.
2Dividethedoughinto10equal-sizedportionseachthesizeofasmalllime.Coatlightlywithflour,shapeintoaballinyourpalmandflattenslightly.
3Rolleachballoutintoaflatdisc,12cmindiameter,dustingthesurfacewithflourasnecessary.
4Heatagriddlepanorshallowfryingpanoverahighheat.Frythediscsoneatatimeonthegriddleuntilthesurfaceappearsbubbly.Flipoverand
presstheedgesdownwithacleanclothorspatulatocookevenly.Assoonastherotiisopaqueandfleckedwithbrownspots,itisdone.Makesurethattherotiiscookedevenlyallover.
5Removeandbrushwithoil,ifusing.Cookalltherotisinthesameway.
MASTERCLASS
NAANS–Oven-bakedLeavenedBreads
Naan,eveninIndia,isarestaurantbread.Firstly,asitismadewithrefinedflourratherthanwholewheat,peopledonotthinkofitasbeingtoohealthy.Secondly,atraditionalnaanismadeinatandooroven,whichisimpracticalinahomeenvironment,andthirdly,beingaleavenedbread,itismoretimeconsumingtomakethanaroti,whichallmeansthatpeopledon’tmakeitathome.Thisrecipehasbeenadaptedtobecookedintheoven,andisagoodrecipetomakeathomeintheWestwherekitchensarefittedwithconventionalovens,unlikeinIndia.
Makes12mininaansPREPARATION→20minutes,plus1½hoursrisingtimeCOOKING20minutes
YOUWILLNEED:100mltepidwater1teaspoonactivedryyeast1teaspooncastersugar380gself-raisingflour,plusextrafordusting20mlvegetableoilorghee30gnatural
yogurtsalttoastedsesameornigellaseeds,tofinish
1Whiskthetepidwater,yeastandsugarinabowlorjuguntiltheyeasthasdissolved.Leaveittostandfor10minutestoactivatetheyeast.
2Sifttheflourandapinchofsaltintoabowlandaddtheyeast,halftheoilorgheeandalltheyogurt.Mixtoformasoftdoughthentransfertoaflouredsurfaceandkneadfor5minutesuntilthedoughissmoothandnolongersticky,addingmoretepidwaterifnecessary.
3Placethedoughinagreasedbowl,coverwithaclean,dampteatowelorlooselywithclingfilmandsetasideinawarmplacefor1½hoursuntilthedoughhasdoubledinsize.
4Punchthedoughdownandkneaditwell.Divideitinto12ballsandrolltheballsintosmallrounds,trianglesoroblongshapes.
5Greaseabakingtrayandputthenaansonit,thenplaceunderahotgrillforabout2minutesoneachsideuntilpuffyandcooked.Youcanalsobaketheminanovenpreheatedto200°C/gasmark6,cookingthemfor4–5minutesoneachside.
6Brushthenaanswiththeremainingoilorgheeandsprinklewithtoastedsesameornigellaseedstoserve.
PeshwariNaans
[SWEETNAANVARIATION]
Indianrestaurantstheworldoverservethissweetnaanfromthenorth-westfrontierregionofPakistan.ThetruenameofthisbreadisPeshawarinaan,inreferencetothecityPeshawarfromwhereitoriginates.Tomakethisversionyouwillneedalltheingredientsforplainnaan,plusthefollowingforthefilling.
Makes12mininaansPREPARATION→35minutesCOOKING20minutes
100gfinelycrushedpistachios30gchoppedraisins30gfinedesiccatedcoconut1teaspoongroundfennelseed1quantitynaandough
1Combinetheingredientsforthefilling.Makethenaandoughas.2Afterrollingoutanaan,placeasmallspoonfulofthesweetnutmixtureatthecentreandcarefullyfoldintheedgestosealinthefilling.Flattenslightlyandgentlyrollbackoutintoasmalloblong,circleortriangle.Repeatwiththeremainingnaans.Cookasonhere.Wrapthecookednaaninfoiltokeepthemwarmwhilecookingtherest.
GarlicNaans
[VARIATION]
Anotherrestaurantfavourite,thegarlickyflavourofthisbreadgoeswellwithspicynorthIndiancurries.Sometimesfreshlychoppedcorianderisalsoaddedalongwiththedicedgarlic.
Makes12mininaansPREPARATION→25minutesCOOKING20minutes
1quantitynaandough3–4garliccloves
1Makethenaandoughas.2Finelychop3–4garlicclovesandsprinkleabitoneachnaanbeforegrillingthem.Whentheyaredone,brushthemwithoilorgheeandservehot.
RavaUttapam
[SEMOLINAPANCAKES]
Uttapamsanddosasareclassicfoodsinthesouth.Iapplytheterm‘pancake’quitelooselyherebecausethewordconjuresupimagesofamixtureofeggs,wheatandmilk,whichthesefoodsarenot.However,theyaremadewithabatter,ladledintoahotpan,spreadintoacircleandsometimesflippedovertobecookedonbothsides.TheyareoftenservedwithWhiteCoconutChutneyandSambhar.
Makes8PREPARATION→10minutes,plusstandingtimeCOOKING25minutes
½mediumonion,finelychopped150gcoarsesemolinapinchofgroundturmericahandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,finelychopped1freshgreenchilli,finelydiced(seedsandall)vegetableoil,forshallow-fryingsalt
1Combinetheonion,semolina,turmeric,salttoseason,corianderandchilliinabowl.Stirinenoughcoldwater(150–180ml)tomakeabatterwithapouringconsistency,almostlikethickcustard.Leavetostandfor10minutes.2Heat1teaspoonofoilinalargesaucepan.Pouraladlefulofthebatterintothecentreandspreaditoutwiththebackofaspoonintoaflattishdiscabout10cmindiameter.Coverthepanandcookthepancakeinitssteamfor2–3minutes.3Flipthepancakeoverwhentheundersidehasturnedgoldenandisfleckedwithbrown.Cooktheothersidefor1–2minutes,uncovered,dottingtheedgeswithoil.Removefromthepanandwrapinfoiltokeepwarmwhileyoucooktheremainingbatter.
MASTERCLASS
POORIS–PuffyFriedBreads
TheSanskritword‘pura’,whichmeansbeingfilledorblownup,mayhavegiventhisdeep-friedbreaditsname.Itiseatenforbreakfast,asasnackoraspartofafeast.Poori-bhajiisaclassiccombinationwithspicedpotatoes.NorthIndiantemplesservehalwa-pooriasblessedfood,thehalwabeingasweetsemolinapudding,whereasMaharashtrianweddingfeastsoftenincludeshrikhandpoori,wheretheyareservedwithsaffron-andcardamom-flavouredsweetenedhungyogurt.
Makes18–20smallpoorisPREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING20minutes
YOUWILLNEED:300gstonegroundwholewheatflour(atta),plusextrafordustingvegetableoil,for
deep-fryingtepidwater,asneeded
1Combinetheflourand1tablespoonofoilinabowl.Addalittletepidwateratatime,untiltheflourcomestogetherandyoucankneaditwithoutitstickingtoyourfingers.Kneadthedoughonalightlyflouredsurfacefor5–6minutes,untilsmooth.Thedoughshouldbestiffbutspringy.
2Dividethedoughinto18–20equal-sizedballs,thesizeofalargecherry.Smearyourpalmswithoilandsmootheachball.
3Heatenoughoilinadeepfryingpanorkarahitofillitupto6cmoverahighheat.Whiletheoilisheatingup,rolleachballoutintoaflatdisc,2.5cmindiameter,onasheetofgreaseproofpaperorworktop,flouringthesurfaceminimallyifnecessary.Toomuchflourwillsettleasaburntresidueinthehotoilandspoilthelookofthepooris.Testthetemperature
oftheoilbydroppinginapea-sizedballofdough.Itshouldriseuptothesurfaceinacoupleofseconds.Ifitrisesimmediately,theoilistoohotsoreducetheheat.
4Gentlyplaceadiscinthehotoil,pressingitdownwiththebackofaslottedspoonuntilpuffyandgolden.Flipitoverandfryfor1minute.Itwillpuffuponlyiftheoilishotenoughandthedischasbeensubmerged.Liftitoutwithaslottedspoonanddrainonkitchenpaper.Keepwarminfoilwhiletherestofthepoorisarebeingfried.
5Frytheremainingpooris,adjustingtheheatsothatthepoorisdonotbrownexcessively.
PalakPoori
[FRIEDSPINACHBREAD]
Thisisahealthyanddeliciouspoorithatgoeswellwithsavourycurriesorsimplywithsomehotpickleandplainyogurt.TheBengali‘luchi’isasimilarfriedbreadmadewithoutthespinach,withplainflouror‘maida’.
Makes18–20smallpoorisPREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING30minutes
2handfulsoffreshspinach,washedanddrained1freshgreenchilli2.5cmpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedandchopped300gstonegroundwholewheatflour(atta),plusextrafordustingvegetableoil,fordeep-fryingtepidwater,asneededsalt
1Heatthespinachinasmallpanwithacoupleoftablespoonsofwater,thechilliandgingerfor5–6minutesuntilthespinachhaswilted.Transferthemixturetoablenderandblitzuntilsmooth.2Combinetheflour,1tablespoonofoil,thespinachpuréeandapinchofsaltinabowl.Dependingonhowwetyourspinachpuréeis,youwillneedonlyalittlewarmwaterifatall.Pourthisin,alittleatatime,untiltheingredientscometogether,thenplaceonasurfaceandkneadtoformastiffdough.3Heatenoughoilinadeepkarahiorpantofillitupto6cmoverahighheat.Whiletheoilisheatingup,shapethedoughinto18–20equal-sizedballs,thenrolleachballonaflouredboardintoaflatdisc5–6cmwideandacoupleofmillimetresthick.Shakeoffanyexcessflourandfryapooriinthehotoil,submergingitwiththebackofaslottedspoonsothatitpuffsup.Flipitoverandcookforafurtherminute.Removeanddrainonkitchenpaper.Keepwarminfoilwhileyoucooktherestofthepooris.
4Frytheremainingpooris,adjustingtheheatsothatthepoorisdonotbrownexcessively.Servehot.
KheemeKeParatha
[LAMBMINCE-STUFFEDBREAD]
InthenorthofIndia,breadsaremadewithavarietyofstuffings,suchasspicedpotatoes,cauliflower,turnipsandmooli.Thislamb-minceparathaisarichbreadeatenwithplainyogurt.Thelambcanbesubstitutedwithbeefmince,ifyouprefer.
Makes8parathasPREPARATION→20minutes,plus10minutesrestingtimeCOOKING45minutes
Forthestuffing1tablespoonvegetableoil½teaspooncuminseeds1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste2freshgreenchillies,finelychopped200gleanlambmince½teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoongarammasala2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshcorianderleavessaltForthebread400gstonegroundwholewheatflour(atta)vegetableoil,forfrying200–225mltepidwater,asneeded
1Heatthevegetableoilinafryingpanoverahighheat.Addthecuminseedsandfryuntilslightlydark,thenaddtheginger-garlicpaste,chillies,mince,turmericandgarammasala,andseasonwithsalt.Breakupthemincewithawoodenspoon,coverandcook,reducingtheheatwhenthemixturebeginstobubble.Simmerfor15minutesuntiltheminceiscooked.Removethelidandincreasetheheattoallowanyliquidinthepantoevaporate,thenaddthecorianderleaves.Transferthemixturetoafoodprocessororblenderandblitzuntilquitesmooth.2Whiletheminceiscooking,makethedough.Placetheflour(reservingsome
fordusting)inabowlwith1tablespoonofoilandalargepinchofsalt,thengraduallyaddthetepidwateruntilyouhaveasmoothandfirmdough(seeMasterclass).Transfertoasurfaceandkneadwellfor7–8minutesuntilsmoothandnolongersticky.Restthedoughinthebowlfor10minutes,coveredwithaclean,dampteatowel.3Dividethedoughinto16equal-sizedballs.Rolleachballintoaflatdiscabout10cmindiameter,dustingthedoughwithalittleflourifsticky.4Smearalayerofthelambminceoveronediscthenplaceanotherdiscofdoughontop.Sealtheedgestomakeaflatparcel.Repeatwiththeremainingparathasandplacethemongreaseproofpaper.5Heatafryingpanoverahighheatanddotitwithoil.Cookaparathafor3–4minutesononesideuntilfleckedwithtinydarkspotsontheunderside,thenflipitoverandcookontheothersidefor3–4minutes.Removeandkeepwarm,wrappedinfoil.6Cooktherestoftheparathasinthesameway.
BajreKiBhakri
[PEARLMILLETBREAD]
Thisisarough-textured,drybreadthatiseatenwithbutterorghee.Asmilletisagluten-freegrain,youneedtopattheseintoshaperatherthanrollingthem,astheytendtobreakeasily.Bhakriscanbelargeorsmall(Ilikethesmallonesastheyareeasiertohandle).
Makes8bhakrisPREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING35minutes
300gmilletflour125–150mltepidwater,asneededmeltedbutterorghee,forbrushing
1Puttheflourinalargebowl,makeawellinthecentreandgraduallypourinthetepidwateruntilyouhaveasoft,smoothdough.2Moistenyourpalmsanddividethedoughinto8equal-sizedballs.Placeaballofdoughonasheetofgreaseproofpaperorplastic.Patthedoughintoaflatdisc,about10cmwideand5mmthick,usingyourmoistenedpalms.Youwillneedtokeepwettingyourpalmsothatthediscdoesnotbreakintobits.Alternatively,flattentheballofdough,placeitonawell-oiledsheetofgreaseproofpaperorplasticandcoveritwithanotheroiledsheetofgreaseproofpaperorplasticandpressdownonitgentlywithasmallplatetoflattenit.Gentlypeelawaytheplasticandremovethebhakri,whichshouldbeslightlysmallerthanthesizeoftheplate.Repeatwiththe7remainingdoughballsandplacethemonasheetofgreaseproofpaper.3Heatagriddlepanorfryingpanoverahighheatandbrushitwithbutterorghee.4Placeonebhakrionthehotpan.Cookfor2–3minutesuntilsmallbubblesappearonthesurface,thencarefullyflipovertocooktheotherside.Pressit
downwiththebackofaspatula,brusheachsidewithmoregheeandcookuntilopaqueandfleckedwithbrownspotsonbothsides.Repeatwiththeremainingbhakris.5Thisbreadmustbeeatenimmediatelyasitgetshardandleatheryifmadeinadvance.
MakkiKiRoti
[CORNBREAD]
Thisgold-colouredbreadisaPunjabiwinterdelicacyandiseatenwith‘sarsonkasaag’,seasonalmustardgreenscookedwithlotsofghee.MostPunjabiswouldagreethatthiscouldbecalledthesignaturemealoftheirstateasit’ssolocal,seasonalanddelicious!
Makes8rotisPREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING30minutes
300gcornmeal(makkikaatta)pinchofsalt150–180mltepidwater,asneededcornflour,fordustingvegetableoilorghee,forbrushing
1Placethecornmealinabowlwiththesalt,makeawellinthecentreandgraduallyaddthetepidwater,mixinguntilyouhaveastiffdough.Transfertoasurfaceandkneadfor3–4minutesuntilsmooth,thenforminto8equal-sizedballs.2Placeonedoughballonaflouredsurfaceandpatitwithyourpalmtoflattenitintoadisc10cmindiameterand5mmthick.Dustyourpalmwithcornflourifnecessary.Repeatwithremainingballs.Youcanalsoplacetheballonasheetofplasticandpatitwithmoistenedhandstoflattenitintoasmallcircle.Thiswillallowyoutoliftiteasily.3Heatagriddlepanoverahighheatandgentlyliftadiscontoit.After2–3minutes,whenthesurfaceappearsbubbly,turnitoverandcookontheotherside.Brushwithoilorgheeonbothsidesandcookforafurther2–3minutesuntilthebreadhaschangedcolourandisfleckedwithbrownspots.Transferthecookedrotitoasheetoffoilandencloseinthefoiltokeepitwarm,thenrepeatwiththeremainingdiscs.
Pesarattu
[GREENMUNGBEANDOSA]
ThisisabreakfastspecialityofAndhraPradesh,wheredosasarecalled‘attu’andgreenmungbeansareknownas‘pesarapappu’.Thebatterisunfermentedandthedosaisusuallyservedwithgingerandcoconutchutneys.AversionsoldinrestaurantsinHyderabadisMLApesarattuwithsavourysemolinacalled‘upma’asastuffing.Increasingtheamountofriceslightlywillgiveacrisperdosa.
Makes10dosasPREPARATION→15minutes,plusovernightsoakingCOOKING30minutes
200gwholegreenmungbeans,soakedinwaterovernight100ginexpensivewhiterice,soakedinwaterovernight1teaspooncuminseeds
2freshgreenchillies,dicedthumb-sizedpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedanddiced1mediumonion,diced
afewfreshcorianderleaves,finelychoppedvegetableoil,forfryingsalt
1Drainthebeansandrice,rinseandtransfertoablenderwiththecuminseeds,greenchillies,ginger,onionandcorianderleaves.Blenduntilsmoothwithenoughwater(about300ml)tomakeasmoothbatterwithapouringconsistency.Seasonwithsalt.2Heatagriddlepanorfryingpanoverahighheatandpouraladlefulofthebatterintothecentre.Spreaditoutwiththebackofaspoontomakeadiscabout10cmindiameter.3Dottheedgeswithoilandcookfor2–3minutes.Whentheundersideiscooked,turnitovertocooktheothersidefor1–2minutes.4Removefromtheheat,wrapthedosainfoiltokeepwarm,andrepeatwiththeremainingbatter.Sometimespesarattuisservedwithalittledicedonionandchillisprinkledonitaswell.
BesanKiRoti
[GRAMFLOURPANCAKES]
Thisrecipeiscookedindifferentpartsofthecountrybutisvariouslycalled‘chilla’,‘cheela’,‘pudla’or‘poora’.InRajasthan,thesearealsomadewithgreenbeansormungbeanflourandarecalled‘cheeldo’.Itisservedwithacurryorvegetablesidedishorsimplywithyogurt,asalightmeal.
Makes8rotisPREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING15minutes
200ggramflour100–150mlcoldwater1smallonion,finelydicedthumb-sizedpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedandgratedsmallsprigoffreshcorianderleaves,chopped1freshgreenchilli,finelydiced¼teaspoongroundcuminvegetableoil,forfryingsalt
1Puttheflourinabowlwithsomesalttoseason.Addalittleofthecoldwaterandwhisktostartmakingabatter.Continueaddingthewater,alittleatatime,untilyouhaveathickbatterofpouringconsistency,whiskingwelltoremoveanylumps.2Addtheonion,ginger,coriander,chilliandcumintothebatterandmixwell.3Heatafryingpanoverahighheatanddotwithoil.Pouraladlefulofbatterintothepanandspreaditwiththebackofthespoonintoathindisc.After2–3minutes,fliptherotioverandcookontheothersidewithsomemoreoil.Bothsidesshouldbegolden.4Removefromthepanandwraptherotiinfoiltokeepitwarm.Make7morerotiswiththeremainingbatter.
5Ifmakingthebatterinadvance,don’taddtheonionandgingeruntilyou’rereadytocooktherotiasthesaltwilldrawouttheirjuicesandthinthebatter.
Pesarattu(topleft/middle);BesanKiRoti(topright);Thalipeeth(bottom)–recipe.
MASTERCLASS
LACCHAPARATHA–Soft,LayeredBreadwithCrispEdges
ThebestlacchaparathaI’veeatenwasatthegorgeousBombayBrasserierestaurantinLondonwhenIworkedthereintheearly1990s.Itwasflaky,softandcrispandIalwayshadminewiththesavourylambroganjosh.AKeralaorMalabarparottaismadeinasimilarway,butwithmoreplainflourthanwholewheatflourthanhere,tomakeasofter,moreelasticbread.
Makes8parathasPREPARATION→15minutes,plus15minutesrestingtimeCOOKING30minutes
YOUWILLNEED:250gstonegroundwholewheatflour(atta),plusextrafordusting50gplainflouror
maidapinchofsalt2tablespoonsvegetableoilormeltedghee,plusextraforbrushingandshallow-
frying150–180mltepidwater,asneeded
1Combinethetwofloursandsaltinabowl.Rubtheoilorgheeintotheflourthenaddthetepidwater,acoupleoftablespoonsatatime,untilyouhaveasoftdough.Kneadthedoughwellonasurfaceuntilsmoothandnolongersticky,thenplaceitbackinthebowl,coverthebowlwithacleanteatowelandleaveittorestonthekitchensurfacefor15minutes.
2Removethedoughfromthebowlandkneaditagain,thendivideitinto8equal-sizedportionsandshapeeachportionintoaball.Flattentheballsslightlyandrollthemeachoutintoacircleabout10cmindiameter.
3Brushthedoughcirclesliberallywithoilormeltedgheeanddustwithalittleflour.Startingatoneend,foldtherotiintosmallpleatslikeafan.Foldtheentirerotitotheotherenduntilitresemblesalongstripoftinyfolds.Now,startingfromoneend,coilitintoatightspiral,foldingtheendinto
thecentre.Foldandrolltheremainingdoughcirclesintospirals.
4Withoutdustingthemwithflour,flattenthespiralsandrollthemoutagain,gently,toabout10cmindiameter.
5Heatagriddlepanoverahighheat.Placeoneparathaonthehotpanandcookfor2–3minutesuntilthesurfacebeginstobubble.Flipitoverandcookontheothersidefor1–2minutes.Brushbothsideswithgheeoroilwhilecooking,untilgoldenandfleckedwithbrownspots.
6Transferthecookedparathatoaplateandcrushslightlytoloosenthelayers.Thisisessentialforthemtoachievetherightappearance.Wrapthecookedparathasinfoiltokeepthemwarmwhilecookingtherest.
MASTERCLASS
ALOOKEPARONTHE–Potato-stuffedBread
Twodifferenttechniquesforstuffingaparatha/paronthe.
ThisisapopularPunjabiornorthIndianbreakfastbutitisalsoservedatmealtimeswithyogurtandhotpickle.Therearetwowaystostuffthebread,eitherbyrollingouttwodiscs,puttingsomeofthefillinginbetweenandsealingtheedgesorbythemethoddescribedopposite.Bothhavethesameresults.
Makes8parathasPREPARATION→10minutes,plus10minutesrestingtimeCOOKING40minutes
YOUWILLNEED:Forthestuffing2mediumpotatoes½teaspooncuminseedsahandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,finelychoppedjuiceof1lemon1freshgreenchilli,minced
1freshgreenchilli,mincedForthebread300gstonegroundwholewheatflour(atta),plusextrafordusting150–180mltepid
water,asneededvegetableoil,forfryingandbrushingsalt
1Boilthepotatoeswholeuntilverysoft,thenpeelandmashthem.Iboilthemintheirskins(ratherthancookthempeeledanddiced)astheytendtoabsorblesswaterthisway,makingforadriermash.
2Dry-toastthecuminseedsinafryingpanoverahighheatuntiltheychangecolourandbecomearomatic.Tipthemintoapestleandmortarorspicemillandcrushcoarsely.
3Combinethetoastedcumin,coriander,mashedpotato,lemonjuiceandchilli,seasonwithsaltandmixwell.Dividethemixtureinto8equal-sizedparts.Thisisthefilling.
4Puttheflourinalargebowl,makeawellinthecentreandgraduallyaddthetepidwatertomakeasoftdough.Transfertoasurfaceandkneadwellfor7–8minutesuntilsmoothandnolongersticky.Restthedoughinthebowlunderaclean,dampteatowelfor10minutes.
5Dividethedoughinto8equal-sizedballs.Rolloutaballofdoughonaflouredsurfacetoasmalldisc,about10cmindiameter.Placeonepartofthefillinginthecentreofthediscandgatheruptheedgesofthediscaroundit.Flourasurfaceandlightlyrollouttheparathatoabout15cmindiameter.
6Heatateaspoonofoilinalargefryingpanoverahighheat.Gentlyliftthediscandplaceitinthepan.Cookfor3–4minutes,brushwithoil,thencarefullyflipovertocooktheotherside.Pressitdownwiththebackofaflatspoon,especiallyaroundtheedges,sothattheparathacooksevenly.
7Removefromtheheat,brushwithoilandkeepwarm.Repeatwiththeremainingdoughandfilling.Wrapthecookedparathasinfoiltokeepthemwarmwhilecookingtherest.
Thalipeeth
[SPICEDMULTIGRAINBREAD]
Thisisamuch-lovedMaharashtrianbread(seephotoonhere).Theflourmixcancontainuptosixgrainsandlentilssuchaswheat,rice,chickpeas,splitblacklentils,pearlmilletandsorghumorjowar,whichareroastedandcrushedinamill.Asthismaybetedioustomake,peoplebuyaready-madeflourmixcalled‘bhajani’.Thisrecipeisaneasyversion,usingfloursreadilyavailableinthekitchencupboard.
Makes8thalipeethPREPARATION→20minutesCOOKING30minutes
300gmixedflours,suchasgramflour,riceflour,pearlmilletflourandstonegroundwholewheatflourinequalquantities,plusextrafordusting
½teaspoongroundcumin1onion,finelychopped2freshgreenchillies,mincedahandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,finelychopped150–180mltepidwater,asneededvegetableoil,forfrying
1Combinetheflours,cumin,onion,chilliesandcorianderinalargebowl.Makeawellinthecentreandaddthewater,alittleatatime,untilthemixtureformsastiffdough,thentransfertoasurfaceandkneaduntilsmooth.Dividethedoughinto8equal-sizedballs.2Placeonedoughballonasheetofflouredgreaseproofpaperandplaceanothersheetontop.Patthedoughintoaflatdisc8cmindiameter.Repeatwiththe7remainingdoughballs.3Heatagriddlepanoverahighheatandgentlyliftonediscontoit.Piercesomesmallholesinthediscwithaskewerorthetipofasmallknife(thishelpsthebreadcookevenly)andcookfor2–3minutes.Dotthethalipeethwithoil.Flipit
overandcookontheothersidefor2–3minutesuntilthebreadisfleckedwithbrownspotsonbothsides.Wrapthecookedthalipeethinfoiltokeepitwarmandrepeatwiththeremainingdiscs.
Bhatura
[FLUFFY,SOFTBREAD]
CholaybhatureisaclassicPunjabicombinationofchickpeasservedwithfluffy,friedbread.ItisasnaturaltoeatthisinagourmetrestaurantasitistoeatitataroadsidestallinanynortherncityofIndia.Restaurantsservelargebhaturas,astheyarefriedinbigcommercialkarahis.Homemadeonesaresmallerastheyarecookedindomesticfryingpans.
Makes10bhaturasPREPARATION→15minutes,plus30minutesrestingtimeCOOKING30minutes
300gplainflourormaida½teaspoonbakingpowderpinchofsalt100gnaturalyogurt150–180mltepidwater,asneededvegetableoil,fordeep-fryingchanamasala,toserve
(optional)
1Sifttheflour,bakingpowderandsaltintoabowl.Addtheyogurtandmixwell.Mixinthetepidwater,acoupleoftablespoonsatatime,untilyouhaveasoftdough.Add1tablespoonofoilatthispointandkneadthedoughfor7–8minutesuntilitisverysoftbutnolongersticky.2Placeinthebowl,coverwithaclean,dampteatowelandsetasidefor30minutesinawarmplace.3Heatenoughvegetableoilinadeepfryingpantodeep-frythebhaturas.Dividetheresteddoughinto10smallequal-sizedballs,eachaboutthesizeofalime.Greaseyourhandsandaballofdoughwithoilandrolllightlyintoasmall,flatdiscoroblongshapeabout10cmwideand5mmthick.4Whentheoilissmokinghot,reducetheheatandfrythebhaturas,oneatatime,forabout2minutesuntilfluffy.Repeatwiththeremainingballs,makingsuretoregulatetheheatsothatitishotenoughtocookthebhaturaswithinacoupleofminuteswithoutbrowningthemtooquickly.Wrapthecookedbhaturainfoiltokeepitwarmwhilefryingtherest.Servehotwithchanamasala,ifyou
like.
MASTERCLASS
DOSAS–LentilandRicePancakes
ThesearesouthIndia’sfavouritepancakesandaremostlyeatenforbreakfast.Theyareservedplain,asinthisrecipe,orstuffedwithaspicedpotatomixtureandcalled‘masaladosa’.Restaurantsserveversionscalled‘paperdosa’thatarecrispandsofineyoucanalmostseethroughthem,or‘metredosa’thatis1-metrelongandcanfeedthewholefamily.
Makes16dosasPREPARATION→15minutes,plus5hourssoakingandovernightfermentingCOOKING25minutes
YOUWILLNEED:300ginexpensivebasmatirice,washed,drainedandsoakedinwaterfor5hours150gsplitskinlessblacklentils(theselookwhiteandarecalleduraddal),soakedin
waterfor5hoursvegetableoil,forfryingsalt
1Drainthericeandlentilsandblitzthemseparatelyinablender,addingenoughcoldwatertojustcovereachofthem,untilyouhavetwosmooth,thickbatters.Combinethesebatters,coverwithclingfilmandleavetofermentinawarmplacefor12hours.
2Seasonthebatterwithsaltandheatafryingpanoverahighheat.Stirthebatterwellandpouraladlefulofitintothecentreofthepan.Spreadthemixtureoutquicklyfromthecentreouttotheedgeswiththebackofaspoon,tomakeaneat10cmcircle.
3Drizzleafewdropsofoilaroundtheedgesofthedosaifitstartstostick.Reducetheheat,coverthepanandcookforabout30seconds.Removethelid,turnthedosaoverwithaspatula,replacethelidandcookontheother
sideforabout30secondsuntilitissealed.Repeatwiththeremainingbatter,keepingthecookedpancakeswarmonacoveredplate,andserveatoncewithacoconutchutneyandsambhar.
NeerDosa
[WATERPANCAKES]
TheseareservedforbreakfastintheUdipiregionofKarnataka.Theyarelightandlacyandnotveryfilling,sotheyareservedwiththicklentilsambhar.
Makes22dosasPREPARATION→20minutes,plusovernightsoakingCOOKING25minutes
300ginexpensivebasmatirice,washed,drainedandsoakedinwaterovernight100gfreshcoconut,gratedvegetableoil,forfryingsalt
1Drainandrinsethericeandplaceitinablenderwiththecoconutandenoughwatertocoverthemixtureandblitztomakeafinepurée.Pourthebatterintoabowl.Atthisstageitwillprobablycoatthebackofaspoon.Ifso,addmorewater–enoughtomakeathinrunnybatterthatwillnotcoatthebackofaspoon.Seasonwithsalt.2Heatafryingpanoverahighheatanddrizzleinafewdropsofoil.Wipetheoilaroundthepanwithsomekitchenpaper.3Pourinaladlefulofbatterandswirlthepan:thebattershouldcoatthepaninathinlayer.Coverthepanandletthedosacookoverahighheatforacoupleofminutes.4Liftofftheedgeswithaspatula,foldthedosaintoatriangleandserveatonce.Repeatwiththeremainingbatter.
Appams
[SAVOURYCOCONUTPANCAKES]
ThisisasouthIndianriceandcoconutfermentedpancakethatiseatenforbreakfastorwithamainmeal.VariousrecipesusefreshcoconutoryeastbutIusecoconutmilkandbakingpowderforease.Therearevariouskindsofappams–bothsweetandsavoury–whichareeatenwithfierycoconut-basedstewsandcurries.Theyaretraditionallymadeinan‘appamchatti’,aconvex,roundedpan.Youcanuseawokorakarahi.
Makes16pancakesPREPARATION→20minutes,plus3hourssoakingtimeandovernightfermentingCOOKING25minutes
300ginexpensivebasmatirice,washed,drainedandsoakedinwaterfor3hours150mlcoconutmilk2teaspoonscastersugarpinchofsalt½teaspoonbicarbonateofsodasunflowerorgingelly(til)oil,forgreasing
1Drainthericeandputitinablenderwiththecoconutmilk.Blitzuntilyouhaveafinebatterwithapouringconsistency.Ricecanbecomegrittyinabattersokeeptheblendergoingalittlebitlongerthanyouthinkyouneedto,togetitasfineaspossible.2Pourthebatterintoabowl,coverwithclingfilmandleavetofermentovernightinawarmplace.3Thefollowingday,addthesugar,saltandbicarbonateofsoda.Ifthebatterisnolongerrunny,addalittlewater.4Heataround-bottomedpan,suchasawokorkarahi,overahighheatandbrushitwiththetiniestamountofoil.
5Whenthepanishot,pouraladlefulofthebatterintothecentreandswirlthepantocoatthesides.Coverthepanandlettheappamcookforaminuteorso:itwillgetahoneycomblookandtheedgeswillbethinnerthanthesides–thethickercentreshouldbecomeopaque.Liftitoutofthepangentlyandserveimmediately.Repeatwiththeremainingbatter.
Paalaada
[RICE,COCONUTANDEGGPANCAKES]
ThesearevelvetysoftpancakeseatenbytheMuslimpopulationofTamilNaduandKerala,withspicychicken,muttonorbeefcurries.Thenameprobablycomesfromthefinenessoftheskinthatformsontopofboiledmilk(‘paal-aada’inTamilandMalayalam).ItisafestivepancakeeatenduringEidand–beingsofine–severalaremadeperperson.
Makes22pancakesPREPARATION→15minutes,plus5hourssoakingtimeCOOKING25minutes
300ginexpensivewhiterice,washed,drainedandsoakedfor5hours200mlcoconutmilk2mediumeggssalt
1Drainthericeandputitinablenderwiththecoconutmilk.Blitztoafinepuréetomakeasmoothbatter.2Passmostofthisbatterthroughasieveintoabowl,leavingabout4tablespoonsbehindintheblender.Addtheeggstotheblenderandblitzforaminute,thenpourthismixturethroughthesieve.Seasonwithsalt.Thebattershouldbeveryrunnyandbarelycoatthebackofaspoon.Ifitisn’trunnyenough,addalittlewatertothinitdown.3Heatanon-stickfryingpanoverahighheat.Pourinaladlefulofbatterandswirlthepansoitcoatsthesidesofthepan.Thepancaketakessecondstocook.Onceithasbecomeopaqueandset,folditintoatriangleandserveatonce.Repeatwiththeremainingbatter.
Adai
[RICEANDYELLOWLENTILPANCAKES]
InmanyTamilhouseholds,thebatterfordosas,adaisandvariousotherbreakfastandsnackfoodsismadeonceaweekandstoredinthefridge.Mostofthesekitchenshavea‘wetgrinder’thatcansuccessfullypulverisehardgrainsandpulseswiththehelpofaliquid.Theseadaiarealsocalled‘adadosa’.
Makes10pancakesPREPARATION→15minutes,plus4hourssoakingtimeCOOKING35minutes
1smallonion,finelydiced1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste1smallgreenchilli,mincedvegetableoil,forfryingForthebatter150ginexpensivewhiterice,washed,drainedandsoakedinwaterfor4hours50gtoordalorsplitgramlentils(chanadal),soakedinwaterfor4hours50gsplitskinlessblacklentils(uraddal),soakedinwaterfor4hourssalt
1Drainthericeandlentilsandputtheminablenderwithenoughwatertojustcoverthem.Blitztoafinepurée.Thebattershouldhaveathickpouringconsistency,soaddacouplemoretablespoonsofwaterifnecessary.Seasonwithsalt.2Addthedicedonion,ginger-garlicpasteandgreenchillitothebatterandmixthemin.3Heatanon-stickfryingpanoverahighheatandpourinaladlefulofbatter.Spreaditoutthinlywiththebackoftheladleanddrizzlealittleoilaroundtheedges.Cookfor1–2minutes,thenflipitoverandcookontheothersideforabout1minute.Bothsidesshouldbegolden.Serveatonce.Repeatwiththe
remainingbatter.
Pakwan
[CRISPSINDHI-STYLEBREAD]
ThisSindhibreadisofteneatenforbreakfastalongwithSindhiDal,butIcouldeatitatanytimeoftheday.Thebreadisprickedwithaforkbeforefryingsothatitdoesnotpuffup:insteaditbecomescrisp,atexturethatcomplementsthecreaminessoftheaccompanyingdal.
Makes8breadsPREPARATION→15minutes,plus10minutesrestingtimeCOOKING40minutes
300gplainflour,plusextrafordusting1tablespoongheepinchofsalt150–180mltepidwater,asneededvegetableoil,fordeep-frying
1Mixtheflour,gheeandsaltinabowl.Addthetepidwater,acoupleoftablespoonsatatime,untilyouhaveasoftdough.Transfertoasurfaceandkneadthedoughwellfor5–6minutes,thenleavethedoughtorestfor10minutesinthebowl,coveredwithaclean,dampteatowel.2Dividethedoughinto8equal-sizedballsandrollouteachballintothindiscsabout8cmindiameter.Flourtheboardasnecessary.3Prickthediscsalloverwithafork.4Heatenoughoilinadeepfryingpanorkadhaitocomeupto5cmoverahighheat.Whennearlysmoking,reducetheheatandgentlyslideinapakwan.Frythemoneatatimefor3–4minutesuntilgoldenandcrisp.5Drainonkitchenpaperandkeepwarm,wrappedinfoil,whileyoufrytherestofthepakwans.
DalGoshtKoftaCurryKheemaMutterSaagGoshtLambDhansakLambVepuduLaalMaasAabGoshtSaojiMuttonRoganJoshRailwayMuttonCurryRaanNihariLambRezalaBhunaGoshtNilgiriKurmaKoshaMangshoKolhapuriTambdaRassaNadanBeefFryPorkWithGaanjTengaPorkVindaloo
ININDIAMEATHASALWAYSBEENCOOKEDWITHSPICESANDEVENINTHERamayana,ONEOFINDIA’SGREATESTANDOLDESTEPICS,MUTTONANDPORKARECOOKEDIN
FRUITJUICESWITHCLOVESANDOTHERSPICES.
MeatconsumptionhasalongandvariedhistoryinIndia.Bonesofbuffalo,sheep,fishandfowlhavebeenfoundinIndusValley(3300BC–1700BC)excavationsanddetaileddescriptionsofanimalsacrificeandeatingmeatareseeninlaterVedictexts.TheVedasthemselves,whicharesomeofthemostsacredtextsofHinduism,listdomesticatedcattle,swineandwildanimalsamongthosethatcouldbesacrificed.
Charaka,oneoftheearliestpractitionersofAyurveda,recommendedmeatanditsbrothforconvalescentsandforthosedoinghardphysicalwork,meaningmen.ItwasonlyafterthearrivalofBuddhismandJainism,tworeligionsthatbelieveinnon-violence,thatHinduismturnedtowardsvegetarianism.Today,almostathirdofIndiaisvegetarianandmostreligiousHindufeastsdonotcontainmeat.
InIndia,theword‘mutton’looselyreferstomeatandthiscouldbesheep,goatorbeef.Themostcommonisgoatmeat,alsocalled‘bakrekagosht’.Beef,called‘badekagosht’(meatofthebigone),issoldinsomestateswhereascowslaughterisillegalinothers.Theselawsarenotuniform,sosomestatesallowcowsaboveacertainagetobekilledwhereasothersbanthepracticecompletely.Thismeansthatbeefisusuallybuffalomeat,ascowsareconsideredsacredinHinduism.
Althoughbeefisnotcommonlyseeninshopsoronrestaurantmenus,itiscertainlyeateninIndia.PopulardishessuchastheKalyaniBiryaniofHyderabadisa‘poorman’sdish’usingfewerspicesandcheapercutsofmeatbutwithlotsofflavour.InKerala,theBeefFryor‘ularthiyathu’issavouredbytheSyrianChristiancommunity.
MeathasalwaysbeencookedwithspicesandevenintheRamayana,oneofIndia’sgreatandoldepics,muttonandporkarecookedinfruitjuiceswithclovesandotherspices.InsouthIndia,meatwascookedwithblackpepperandthefinisheddishwascalled‘kari’.Muchlater,theMughalsbroughtnewwaysof
cookingmeatincreamandwithnutsandfruit.VolumeOneoftheAin-i-AkbariwrittenbyAbuFaz’l(1590AD)describesdishessuchasbiryanimadebycookingsheepingheewithsaffron,cloves,pepperandcuminseed.‘Yakhni’wasmeatcookedwithonionsandalamborkidwaspreferable.Kebabscombinedmeatwithghee,freshginger,onionsandspices.
CUTSOFMEATUSEDININDIANCOOKINGMutton,beef,lamborporkcurriesrelyonastewingtechniquewherethemeatiscookedslowlywiththerestoftheingredientstoabsorbflavouraswellassoften.Therefore,slightlycheapercutsofmeatsuchasshouldercanbeused.Recipessuchas‘boti’kebabsusethedicedlegoftheanimalwhereas‘seekhkebabs’thatareshapedaroundskewersusemincedmeat.Indiansoftenprefertousemeatontheboneasitaddsflavourtocurries.
Allmeatiscookeduntilwelldoneratherthanrareormedium.Indiansarefussyaboutthesmellofmeatandwilladdspicesandherbstomaskthestrongaromaandtoaddflavour.
IndianMuslimseatonlyhalalmeat.HalalistheArabicwordfor‘permissible’andthisfoodisthatwhichadherestoIslamiclaw,asdefinedintheKoran.TheIslamicritualformofslaughteringanimalsorpoultrybycuttingthejugularveininasingleswipeiscalleddhabiha,andallbloodisdrainedawayfromthedeadanimal.
Iliketouseshoulderoflambforcurries,asithasaproportionoffatthathelpstosoftenthemeatasitstews,andlegwithmoremuscleforroasting,soitgivesyoualeanerfinishedproduct.
MARINADESTENDERISERS→Meatisoftenmarinatedbeforebeingcooked,toallowflavourstopenetrateandtosoftenit.Marinadeshavethreecomponents–spicesandherbsforflavour,oilordairytocarryflavourandtobindingredientstogether,andacidtotenderise.Saltaddsflavourandhelpstosoftenthemeat.
AcidicmarinadesAcidicliquidssuchaslemonandlimejuiceorvinegardenatureproteinandloosenthemusclefibreaswellasaddingflavour.Theycan,however,over-softenthemeatandarethereforecombinedwithoiltodilutethemslightly.
EnzymaticmarinadesSomefruitandvegetables,suchasginger,pineapple,figsandkiwis,haveenzymeswhichhelptobreakdownprotein.Themostcommonlyusedoneispapainfromrawpapaya.ThisissoldasawhitepowderinAsianfoodstores,oryoucangrateasmalllime-sizedpieceofrawpapaya.Meatleftinpapainfortoolongcangetmushyandtenderiseunevenly,sodon’tleaveitinformorethanacoupleofhoursifusingthepowder,or6hoursifusingfresh.
DairymarinadesYogurtisamildmarinadeusedinIndiancooking.Itiswidelyavailableandsoftensthemeatallthewaythrough.Theyogurtalsohelpstoholdtherestoftheingredientstogetherandbindthemtothemeat.
Ifyouarenotusingdairy,mixthemarinadeingredients(suchasspices,salt,gingerandgarlic)togetherandrubthemontothemeat.Finishwithacoatingofoil.Ifyoucombinethespiceswithoiltobeginwith,itactsasabarriertotheabsorptionofspicesandsaltintothemeat.
Anoteabouttherecipes:ManyoftherecipesinthischapterwouldbecookedwithgoatmeatinIndia–outsideofIndia,onecanuselamb.
DalGosht
[LAMBWITHLENTILS]
ThecombinationofmeatwithlentilsasasauceisamixofMughalandIndianstyles.Today,thisdishiscommonlyfoundinplacesthathavehadIslamicrulersinthepast,suchasHyderabad,whereitiscalled‘dalcha’.Thechanadaladdsagrainytexture(someversionsofthisrecipeusetoordal,whichmakesasmoothersauce).
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plusmarinatingtimeforlambandsoakingtimeforlentils(about1hour)COOKING1hour15minutes
600glambonthebone,cubed2tablespoonsfull-fatyogurt150gsplitgramlentils(chanadal),soaked2tablespoons
vegetableoil2largeonions,finelychopped2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste2freshgreenchillies,finelychopped2tablespoonstomatopurée1½teaspoonsgroundturmeric1teaspoongroundcoriander1teaspoongarammasalaafewturnsofapeppermill3teaspoonslemonjuiceafewsprigsoffreshcorianderleaves,washedandchopped,togarnishsaltboiledriceorRotis,toserve
1Placethelambinabowlwiththeyogurtandseasonwithsalt,thensetasidetomarinatefor1hour.Soakthelentilsinplentyofhotwaterfor1hour.2Drainthelentilsandputtheminaheavy-basedsaucepanwithdoublethevolumeofwater(andnosalt)andbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandcookfor45minutesuntilsoft,addingafewtablespoonsofwaterifthelentilsdryout.3Meanwhile,heathalftheoilinaseparateheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat,addtheonionsandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoftandbrown.Addtheginger-garlicpasteandgreenchillies,thenstirinthetomatopuréeandcookfora
minute.Tipthismixtureintoablender,addenoughwatertocoverthemixtureandblitztomakeasmoothcurrypaste.Setaside.4Heattheremainingoilinthesamepanoverahighheatandaddthemarinatedlamb.Stirtomopupalltheflavourfromthebottomofthepanandsealwell.Sprinkleinthegroundspices,cookfor30secondsthenpourinthecurrypasteandseasonwithsalt.Mixwellandpourin250mlwater.Bringtotheboil,reducetheheatandsimmerfor1houroruntilthelambistender.Youmayneedtoaddabitmorewaterwhilecookingifthecurrygetstoodry.5Pourinthecookedanddrainedlentilsandmixwell.Addthelemonjuiceandseasontotaste.Sprinklewiththecorianderandservewithriceorrotis.
KoftaCurry
[MEATBALLCURRY]
Theword‘kofta’denotesgroundmeatinPersian.ThisdishismadealloverIndiawithlamborbeefmince,dependingonreligiouspreferences.Icookthemeatballsintheovenbecauseit’shealthiertooven-bakethemthanfrythem,buttheycanbepan-friedandaddedtothesaucewhileit’scooking,ifyoulike.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING35minutes
boiledrice,toserveahandfulofchoppedfreshcorianderleaves,togarnishsaltForthemeatballs300gleanlambmince2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste2freshgreenchillies,finelydicedForthecurry2tablespoonsvegetableoil2bayleaves2largeonions,veryfinelychopped1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste2freshgreenchillies,minced2tomatoes,dicedor½x400gcanofchoppedplumtomatoes1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongarammasala
1Preheattheovento200°C/gasmark6.Combinethemeatballingredientsinalargebowlwithapinchofsalt.Forminto20largecherry-sizedballs.Lineabakingtraywithfoil,placethemeatballsonthetrayandbakefor10minutes.Removefromtheovenandsetaside.2Meanwhile,heattheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheatandaddthebayleaves.Astheydarken,addtheonionsandcookfor7–8minutesuntilsoftandbrown.Addtheginger-garlicpasteandchilliesandfryforafewseconds,thentipinthetomatoesandstirtosoften.Addthespicesandseason
withsalt.Cookfor10minutesoveramediumheatuntilwellblended,addingasplashofwaterifthecurrybeginstosticktothebottomofthepan.3Gentlyplacethemeatballsinthecurry.Cookforafurther5minutes,seasontotaste,sprinklewiththecorianderandservewithrice.
KheemaMutter
[MINCEDLAMBWITHPEAS]
ThisisapopulardishalloverIndiaandiseatenwithbreadcalled‘pao’,rolledintorotis,orsimplyservedwithplainrice.Italsomakesagoodfillingforsamosas.Youcansubstitutethepeaswithmushroomsordicedpotatoesasavariation.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING30minutes
2tablespoonsvegetableoil10blackpeppercorns,crushed2mediumonions,finelychopped2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste2tablespoonstomatopurée2freshgreenchillies,finelydiced600glambmince150ggreenpeas,shellediffresh,orfrozen1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongarammasalasmallsprigoffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnishsaltRotis,paoorboiledrice,toserve
1Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheat,addthecrushedpeppercornsandfryforaminute.Tipintheonions,fryfor7–8minutesuntilgolden,thenaddtheginger-garlicpaste.Stirafewtimesthenaddthetomatopuréeandchillies.Cookforacoupleofminutes.2Addthemince,greenpeas,groundspicesandseasonwithsalt.Breakuptheminceandstirtobrownevenly,thencoverandcookoveralowheatfor20minutes,untilthelambistender.3Seasontotasteandservehot,garnishedwiththechoppedcoriander,withroti,paoorrice.
SaagGosht
[LAMBWITHSPINACH]
Saaggoshtisalsoknownaspalakgosht,asthewords‘saag’and‘palak’areusedinterchangeablyforspinachinsomepartsofIndia,suchasPunjab.Youcanuselambchopsforthisrecipe,ifyouprefer.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING1hour15minutes
200gspinach,cleaned,washedandchopped2tablespoonsvegetableoil1tablespooncorianderseeds2onions,chopped
2.5cmpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedandchopped4garliccloves,chopped2freshgreenchillies,chopped1tablespoontomatopurée800glambshoulderonthebone,cubed1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoonground
coriander1teaspoongroundcumin1teaspoongarammasalasaltRotisorboiledrice,toserve
1Putthespinachinapanwithafewtablespoonsofwaterandcookfor5minutesuntilwilted.Blitztoapuréeinablenderwiththecookingliquidandsetaside.2Heathalftheoilinafryingpanoverahighheat,addthecorianderseedsandfryfor40secondsuntilslightlydark.Addtheonionsandfryfor8–9minutesuntilbrown,thenaddtheginger,garlicandgreenchillies.Fryfor1minutethenaddthetomatopurée.Mixeverythingtogether,cookfor1minuteuntilblended,thentransfertoablenderwithenoughwatertocoverthemixture,andblitztomakeasmoothcurrypaste.3Heattheremainingoilinapanoverahighheatandaddthelamb.Fry,stirring,for4–5minutesuntilsealed,thenaddthegroundspicesandseasonwithsalt.4Addthecurrypasteandenoughwatertomakeathicksauce.Bringtotheboilthencookoveralowheatfor1houruntilthelambistender,addingmorewaterifnecessary.Addthepuréedspinachandstirtoblend.Seasontotasteandserve
hotwithriceorrotis.
LambDhansak
[PARSILAMBANDLENTILCURRY]
Althoughthismuch-loveddishiseatenforSundaylunchinParsihomes,itistraditionallycookedonthefourthdayafterthepassingawayofarelative.Meatisnotcookedforthefirstthreedaysofmourningandthisdhansakispreparedtomarktheendoftheabstinence.Thereforedhansakisnotconsideredacelebratorydish.
Serves4PREPARATION→30minutesCOOKING1½hours
1largeonion,finelychopped2tomatoes,chopped1smallbottlegourdorcourgette,finelychopped80gredpumpkinorbutternutsquash,
choppedanddeseeded,skinleftonasmallhandfuloffreshfenugreekleaves,chopped,or2tablespoonsdriedfenugreekleavesahandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,choppedahandfuloffreshmintleaves,chopped300gbonelesslambshoulder,cubed150gredlentils,washedanddrained1½teaspoonsgroundturmeric
1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder2teaspoonsdhansakmasalaorgarammasala4tablespoonsmaltvinegar1tablespoonvegetableoil1teaspooncuminseedssaltParsi-styleBrownRice,toserve
1Putalltheingredientsexceptthevinegar,oilandcuminseedsinalargepanalongwithenoughwatertocoverthemandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmer,covered,for1houroruntilthelambandlentilsaresoft.2Lightlywhiskthevegetablesandlentilstomashthem.Themeatwillnotgetmashed.(Somerecipescookthemeatandlentilsseparatelyorscoopthemeatoutofthecurrybeforepuréeingitinablender–Iuseawhiskasitisequallyefficientandquicker.)3Addthevinegar,seasonwithsaltandstir.4Heattheoilinasmallfryingpanoverahighheat,addthecuminseedsandfryforabout30secondsuntilslightlydark.Pourtheoiloverthedhansakandserve
hotwithParsi-stylebrownrice.
LambVepudu
[ANDHRAMUTTONFRY]
AndhraPradeshinsouthIndiagrowsalmosthalfofIndia’sentirechillicropandthereforethestyleofcookingisquitespicy.Mostofthechilliesproducedtherearedriedtoincreasetheirshelflifeandtheyarefoundinalmosteveryrecipefromtheregion,includingthisone.ThisdishisalsofoundinhighwayeateriesandpopularrestaurantsinHyderabad.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING1hour
800glambonthebone,cubed1teaspoongroundturmeric1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste3tablespoonsvegetableoil1largeonion,finelydiced3–4driedredchillies,brokeninhalfandseedsshakenout2freshgreenchillies,finelydiced
10freshor15driedcurryleaves1teaspoongroundcoriander1teaspoongarammasala10blackpeppercorns,coarselycrushedsaltParathasorDosas,toserve
1Putthelamb,turmericandhalftheginger-garlicpasteinapan,seasonwithsaltandaddenoughwatertocoverthelamb.Bringtotheboil,thenreducetheheatandsimmerfor50minutesoruntilthelambistender.Drainandsetthemeattooneside.KeepthebrothtouseasastockinanotherdishsuchasLambDhansak.2Meanwhile,heattheoilinalargefryingpan,addtheonionandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft.Addtheremainingginger-garlicpasteandcookfor30seconds.Addtheredandgreenchilliesandcurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter)andcookforafurtherminute.3Sprinkleinthegroundcorianderandgarammasala,thenaddthecookedlambandseasonwithsalt.Cookfor6–7minutesuntilthesaucecoatsthemeat.
Sprinkleinthepepper,seasontotasteandservehotwithparathaordosa.
LaalMaas
[RAJASTHANIMEATANDCHILLICURRY]
ManybrightredRajasthanicurrieslookmuchspicierthantheyactuallyare–MathaniachilliesfromnearJodhpurareusedforcolourandhaveauniqueflavourthatisearthyratherthansimplyhot.I’veusedthemorereadilyavailableKashmiridriedredchillies,whicharealsobrightredandhaveamoderatelevelofheat.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plus1hourmarinatingtimeCOOKING1hour20minutes
800glambshoulderonthebone,cubed1teaspoongroundcoriander1teaspoongroundcumin
1teaspoongarammasala50gfull-fatyogurt12driedredKashmirichillies,brokeninhalfandseedsshakenout2tablespoonsvegetable
oil1tablespooncorianderseeds2onions,chopped6garliccloves,mincedsaltRotisorboiledrice,toserve
1Combinethelambinabowlwiththegroundcoriander,cuminandgarammasala.Tipintheyogurt,seasonwithsalt,mixandleavetomarinatefor1hour.2Meanwhile,putthedriedchilliesinasmallsaucepanoverahighheat,pourinenoughwatertojustcoverthem,andbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor6–7minutesuntilthechilliesaresoft.Removefromtheheatandsetaside.3Heathalftheoilinafryingpanoverahighheat,addthecorianderseedsandfryforabout30secondsuntilslightlydark.Addtheonionsandfryfor7–8minutesuntilbrown,thenaddthegarlicandcookforafurtherfewminutes.Putthismixtureintoablenderalongwiththesoftchilliesandtheircookingliquid.Topupwithwatersothatitjustcoversthemixtureandblitztoformafine
purée.4Heattheremainingoilinapanoverahighheatandaddthemarinatedlamb.Frythelambforafewminutes,thenaddtheonionandchillipurée.Seasontotasteandcookoveramediumheatfor50minutesuntilthelambistender.Youmayneedtoaddsomewaterduringcookingifthecurrydriesout.Seasontotasteandservehotwithrotisorrice.
AabGosht
[LAMBCURRYWITHMILK]
Thisisamuch-lovedKashmiridishwithasoupygravyandtenderpiecesoflamb.ItisfragrantwithoutbeingtoohotandisoftenservedaspartofafestiveKashmirimealatweddingsorforEid.
Serves4PREPARATION→20minutesCOOKING1½hours
800glambshoulderonthebone,cubed4largegarliccloves,peeled2teaspoonsgroundginger2teaspoonsgroundfennelseeds1smallcinnamonstick
2blackcardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded5greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded8blackpeppercorns
3cloves2tablespoonsghee2onions,sliced250mlwholemilksaltboiledrice,toserve
1Putthelamb,garlic,groundgingerandfennel,cinnamonstick,crushedcardamomseeds,peppercornsandclovesinasaucepan.Seasonwithsalt,thenpourinjustenoughwatertocoverthemeatandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor1houroruntilthemeatistender.Thecookedmeatwillnowbeinameatstock.2Meanwhile,heathalfthegheeinafryingpanoverahighheat,addtheonionsandfryfor8–9minutesuntiltheyarewellbrowned,reducingtheheatastheybegintochangecolour.Drainthem,reservingthegheeforthecurry.Putthedrainedonionsinablender,addenoughcoldwatertojustcoverthemandblitztoafinepurée.3Heattheremaininggheeinasaucepanandaddthebrownonionpurée.Cookforacoupleofminutesthenliftthepiecesofcookedlamboutofthestockandaddthemtotheonions.
4Coatthelambwellandcookfor2–3minutes.Pourthemeatstockthroughasieveintothepanwiththemeatanddiscardthespices.5Pourinthemilkandcookfor7–8minutesuntilthesauceiswellblended.Seasontotasteandservehotwithrice.
SaojiMutton
[SPICYLAMBWITHSPICESANDDRIEDCOCONUT]
TheSaojiorSavjiareasilk-weavingcommunitywhomigratedfromnorthIndiatovariouspartsofthecountrycarryingtheircuisinewiththem.ThisrecipefromNagpuriseatenwithspicywheatpooriscalled‘edmi’.Itusesalocalspicecalled‘dagadphool’whichlookslikeburntpaperwithananiseed-likeflavour.Ifyoucan’tsourceit,useaniseedinstead.
Serves4PREPARATION→20minutesCOOKING1hour15minutes
3tablespoonsvegetableoil2tablespoonscorianderseeds1smallcinnamonstick3cloves8driedredKashmirichillies,brokeninhalfandseedsshakenout1tablespoonwhitepoppy
seeds1tablespoonmountainmoss(dagadphool)or1tablespoonaniseedorfennelseeds2onions,sliced
2tablespoonsginger-garlicpaste3tablespoonsdesiccatedcoconut800ggoatorlambonthebone,cubed2blackcardamom
pods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded4greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscardedsalt
Pooris,toserve
1Heathalftheoilinafryingpanoverahighheatandaddthecorianderseeds,cinnamonstick,cloves,Kashmirichillies,poppyseedsandmountainmoss.Fryfor1minute,thenwhentheseedsdarken,addtheonions.Cookfor8–9minutesuntiltheonionsaresoftandbrown.2Addtheginger-garlicpasteandcoconut.Cookuntilthecoconutturnsgoldenbrown,thentransfertoablender,addenoughcoldwatertojustcoveritandblitztoafinepurée.3Heattheremainingoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheatandfrythemeatfor4–5minutes.Pourinthepuréefromtheblender,addthecrushedcardamomseedsandseasonwithsalt.Rinseouttheblenderwith300mlwaterandpourthisintothecurry.Bringtotheboil,thenreducetheheatandcookfor
50minutesoruntilthemeatistender.Seasontotasteandservehotwithpooris.
RoganJosh
[RICHREDKASHMIRICURRY]
ThisfragrantKashmiridishissometimesreferredtoas‘SabutSalan’becausethemeatisnotmincedbutcubed.ThecolourwasoriginallyderivedfromtherootofAlkanetorRatanJot.Thesedays,cheaperKashmirichillipowderisusedinstead.
Serves4PREPARATION→20minutesCOOKING1½hours
4tablespoonsvegetableoil4cloves2smallcinnamonsticks2largeblackcardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded4
greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded1bladeofmace2largeonions,sliced2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste2tablespoonstomatopurée2bayleaves600glambshoulderonthebone,cubed1teaspoongroundfennelseeds2teaspoons
groundcoriander2teaspoonsKashmirichillipowder1teaspoongroundturmeric2tablespoonsgroundalmonds50gfull-fatyogurt
saltboiledriceorRotis,toserve
1Heathalftheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat,addthecloves,cinnamonsticks,cardamomseedsandmace.Fryforacoupleofminutesuntilaromaticthenaddtheonions.Fryoveramediumheatfor10–12minutesuntiltheonionsaregoldenbrownandsoft.Addtheginger-garlicpaste,fryforaminutethenaddthetomatopurée.Stirafewtimesandremovefromtheheat.Transfertoablender,addafewtablespoonsofwaterandblitzuntilsmooth.Setaside.2Heattheremainingoilinapanoverahighheat,addthebayleavesandfryfor30seconds.Addthelamb,reducetheheattomediumandfryuntilbrown,thenaddthegroundspicesandcookforacoupleofminutes.Addthecurrypasteandenoughwatertomakeathicksauce.Seasonwithsaltandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheat,coverandsimmerfor50minutesoruntilthelambistender.
3Foldinthegroundalmondsandyogurtandremovefromtheheat.Seasontotasteandservehotwithriceorrotis.
RailwayMuttonCurry
[LAMBCURRYSERVEDONTHEINDIANRAILNETWORK]
OneofthegreatjoysoftraintravelinIndiaistheendlessvarietyoffoodthatissold.Longjourneysinvolveentiremealsbeingservedtoyouatyourseat.ThiscurrybecamestandardfareontrainsduringtheRajandwasmildlyspicedtosuitthedelicateBritishpalate.Theadditionoftamarindorvinegarhelpedtomakeitlastforafewdays.Today’srailwaycurriesarespicierbutstillquitedelicious!
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING1hour15minutes
800glambonthebone,cubed1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongroundcoriander1teaspoonground
turmeric2tablespoonsvegetableoil8blackpeppercorns1smallcinnamonstick3greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded3driedredKashmirichillies,
brokeninhalfandseedsshakenout8freshor15driedcurryleaves2onions,thinlysliced2tablespoonsmaltvinegaror4tablespoonstamarindpulporshop-boughttamarindpaste
saltboiledrice,toserve
1Placethelambinalargebowlwiththeginger-garlicpasteandgroundspices,seasonwithsaltandcombine.Setasidewhileyoupreparetheremainingingredients.2Heattheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheatandaddthewholespices,Kashmirichilliesandcurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter).Whentheysizzleandchangecolour,addtheonions.Fryfor8–9minutesuntilsoftandbrown.3Tipinthemeatandfrytoseal,thenpourinthevinegarortamarindpulpandenoughwatertojustcoverthelamb.Bringtotheboil,thenreducetheheatandcookfor50minutes,oruntilthelambistenderandthecurryisthick.Seasontotasteandservehotwithrice.
Raan
[ROASTLEGOFLAMB]
RaanisassociatedwithKashmiricookingorthatofthenorth-westfrontier.InIndianrestaurantsitiscookedinatandoorbuthomecookscanusedomesticovens.Themeatismarinatedtotenderiseitandslow,longcookingensuresthatitfallsoffthebone.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plus1hourmarinatingtimeCOOKINGabout1½hours(dependingonsizeandqualityofthelamb)
½legoflamb(about1kg)150gfull-fatyogurt2teaspoonsmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongroundturmeric2teaspoonsgarammasala4teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste2tablespoonsgratedrawpapayaor1teaspoonpapainpowder2tablespoonslemonjuicevegetableoil,forgreasingsaltParathasorNaans,toserve
1Make6–8deepincisionsinthelegoflambandrubwithsalttoseason.2Mixtheyogurt,spices,ginger-garlicpaste,papayaandlemonjuicewithsalttoseasonandrubthemixtureontothemeat.Leavethelambtostandfor1hourandpreheattheovento180ºC/gasmark4.3Placethemeatinagreasedroastingtinandpourin5tablespoonsofwater.Sealthetinwithfoilandcookfor30minutesper450gmeat.Whenthemeatiscooked,turnofftheovenandleavethemeattorestintheovenfor20minutes.4Transfertoaservingdishandservewithparathasornaans.
Nihari
[BREAKFASTMEATCURRY]
ThisisafamousDelhimeatcurryeatenforbreakfastafterthefirstMuslimprayers.Indaysgoneby,rulersandkingscouldthenhaveanapuntiltheafternoonprayers.Today,somerestaurantsthatserveNihariclaimthattheadditionofaportionofthepreviousday’scurry,called‘taar’,addsflavourtothefreshone.
Serves4PREPARATION→20minutesCOOKING1hour20minutes
800glambonthebone,includingmarrowbones,diced2tablespoonsginger-garlicpaste1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongroundcoriander1teaspoonground
turmeric1teaspoongroundfennelseeds2tablespoonsghee4cloves1smallcinnamonstick3blackcardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded½teaspoonfreshlygroundblack
pepper2onions,thinlysliced2tablespoonsstonegroundwholewheatflour(atta),mixedwithsomewatertomakea
pastejuiceof½lemonthumb-sizedpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedandcutinjuliennestrips,togarnishasmall
handfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnishsaltboiledriceorRotis,toserve
1Combinethemeat,halftheginger-garlicpasteandallthegroundspicesinasaucepanalongwithenoughwatertocoverthemeat,seasonwithsaltandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor1houroruntilthemeatistender.2Heatthegheeinaseparatepanoveramediumheatandaddthewholespices,crushedcardamomseedsandpepper.Fryfor30secondsuntiltheystarttosizzle,thentipintheonionsandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft.Addtheremainingginger-garlicpasteandfryfor1minute,thenaddthemeatalongwiththestockithasbeencookedin.Stirintheflourpasteandcookfor4–5minutesuntilthesaucethickensslightly.Addthelemonjuiceandseasontotaste.3Servehot,garnishedwiththejuliennedgingerandfreshcoriander,withriceor
rotisalongside.
LambRezala
[LAMBCURRYWITHSCREWPINEWATER]
WajidAliShah,theNawabofAwadh,nearpresent-dayLucknow,whowasexiledinCalcutta,tookwithhimhisdancinggirls,animalsandcooksandaddedanewwayofcookingtothelocalcuisine.ThisfragrantcurryisnowsopopularthatitisconsideredapartofBengalicookery.ScrewpinewaterisavailablefromIndianorThaigrocersaskewra,kewdaorpandanwater.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plus30minutesmarinatingtimeCOOKING1hour
600gbonelessshoulderoflamb,trimmedandcubed150gfull-fatyogurt2tablespoonsginger-garlicpaste1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongroundcinnamon1teaspoongarammasala1teaspoonsalt,plusextratoseason2tablespoonsvegetableoil3largeonions,thinlysliced3cloves2blackcardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded1teaspoonkewraorscrewpine
waterRotisorNaans,toserve
1Placethemeatinabowlwiththeyogurt,ginger-garlicpaste,groundspicesandsaltandleavetomarinatefor30minutes.2Meanwhile,heathalftheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat,addtheonionsandfryfor7–8minutesuntilgolden.Drainandsetaside.3Addtheremainingoiltothepanand,onceit’swarm,addtheclovesandcrushedcardamomseeds.Whentheysizzle,addthemarinatedmeatandstir.4Addalittlewatertomakeathicksauceandcookoveralowheatfor50minutesuntilthemeatistenderandtheoilseparatesfromthegravy.Youmayneedtoaddalittlewaterifthesaucedriesup.
5Addtheonionsandcookforafurther5minutes.Seasontotaste,drizzlewiththekewraorscrewpinewaterandservehotwithrotisornaans.
BhunaGosht
[SAUTÉEDMEATCURRY]
Asthisdishissautéedandstir-fried,itissemi-drywiththecurryclingingontothepiecesofjuicymeat.Apopularrestaurant-styledish,itisapartofIndo-Islamic,northIndiancookery.Bhunaisatechniqueofcookingratherthanreferringtoingredientsorheatlevel.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plus2hoursmarinatingtimeCOOKING1hour15minutes
800glambonthebone,cubed5tablespoonsfull-fatyogurt2tablespoonsgratedrawpapayapasteor1teaspoonpapainpowder2tablespoonsvegetableoil
2onions,finelydiced2tablespoonsginger-garlicpaste3tomatoes,dicedor½x400gcanofchoppedtomatoes1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongroundcoriander2teaspoonsgarammasala1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder½teaspooncrushedblackpepperahandfulof
freshcorianderleaves,togarnishsaltboiledriceorLacchaParatha,toserve
1Combinethelamb,yogurtandpapayainabowl.Seasonwithsalt,coverandmarinatefor2hoursinthefridge.2Heattheoilinalargefryingpanoverahighheatandaddtheonions.Sprinkleinapinchofsaltandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft.Addtheginger-garlicpasteandfryfor1minute,thenaddthetomatoes.Cookoverahighheatfor4–5minutesuntilablendedpasteforms.3Addthemarinatedlambandmarinadeandfryoverahighheattoseal.Sprinkleinthegroundspices,seasonwithsaltandaddenoughwatertocoatthepan.Bringtotheboil,reducetheheat,coverandcookfor1houroruntilthemeatistender.Stirthemeatfromtimetotimeandifitbeginstostick,addalittlewater.
4Whenthemeatisdone,removethelidandcookoverahighheattoevaporatemostoftheliquid.Thesauceshouldbeconcentrated.Seasontotaste,sprinklewithpepperandfreshcoriander,andservehotwithriceorLacchaParatha.
NilgiriKurma
[LAMBINASPICEDHERBCURRY]
TheNilgiri(BlueMountain)inTamilNadu,southIndia,isarangeofmountainsthatisprobablynamedafterthecarpetofblueflowersthatgrowthere.Itslushevergreenrainforestshaveinspiredthenameofthisgreencurry,whichisthickenedwithpoppyseedsandcoconut,givingitacreamyflavour.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING1hour15minutes
2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspoonblackmustardseeds1teaspoonfennelseeds1mediumonion,finelychopped2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste1teaspoongarammasala1teaspoongroundturmeric800glambshoulderonthebone,cubedgoodsqueezeoflimesaltboiledriceorAppams,toserveForthefirstcurry/greenherbpaste2handfulsoffreshcorianderleaves,washedandchopped2handfulsoffreshmintleaves,
washedandchopped2freshgreenchillies8freshor15driedcurryleavesForthesecondcurry/coconutpaste1tablespoonwhitepoppyseeds2tablespoonsfreshlygratedordesiccatedcoconut
1Puttheingredientsforthefirstcurrypasteinablenderwithenoughwatertocoverthemandblitzuntilsmooth.Setaside.2Dry-toastthepoppyseedsforthesecondcurrypasteinahotfryingpanuntiltheybegintochangecolour.Transfertoablenderandaddthecoconutandenoughwatertocoverthemixture.Blitzuntilsmooth.3Heattheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat,addthemustardseedsandfryuntiltheybegintopop.Tipinthefennelseedsandwaituntilthey
darken,thenaddtheonion.Sprinkleinapinchofsalttohelptheonionsoftenfaster.4Whentheonionissoftandgolden,addtheginger-garlicpasteandfryforacoupleofminutes.Stirinthegarammasalaandturmeric,cookforaminutethenpourinthesecondcurrypaste.Cookforacoupleofminutes.Youmayneedtoaddabitofwaterifthemixturebeginstosticktothebottomofthepan.5Addthelambandfrytoseal,thenpourinthefirstcurrypasteandseasonwithsalt.Addalittlewatertothepanthencoverandcookoverahighheatuntilthecurrybubbles.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor1hour,covered,oruntilthelambistender.Seasontotaste,addasqueezeoflime,andservehotwithriceorappams.
KoshaMangsho
[BENGALILAMBCURRY]
‘Kosha’isto‘sauté’inBengaliandisknownas‘bhuna’innorthIndia.MyBengalifriendsswearbythespicyKoshamadebythefamous‘Golbari’restaurantinKolkatta.
Serves4PREPARATION→20minutes,plus2hoursmarinatingtimeorovernightifpossibleCOOKING1½hours
4mediumonions,sliced2freshgreenchillies,roughlychopped2.5cmpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedandchopped7garliccloves,chopped800glambshoulderonthebone,cubed1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongroundcoriander4tablespoonsfull-fatyogurt1teaspooncastersugar2tablespoonsmustardoil3bayleaves
4wholegreencardamompods5cloves1smallcinnamonstick1teaspoongarammasala,togarnishsaltboiledrice,toserve
1Puttheonions,chillies,gingerandgarlicinablenderwithalittlewaterandblitztoapurée.Combinethelamb,halfthepurée,turmeric,groundcorianderandyogurtinabowl,seasonwithsalt,coverandmarinateinthefridgefor2hoursorovernightifpossible.Transfertheremainingpuréefromtheblenderintoacontainer,thenaddafewtablespoonsofwatertotheblendertocollectalltheflavourandpourthisintoo.Chillwhilethelambismarinating.2Whenthemarinatingtimeisup,heatthesugarinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheatuntilitbeginstocaramelise.Pourinthemustardoil,heattosmokingpoint,thenreducetheheatandaddthewholespices.Whentheybegintodarken,addthemarinatedlambandfrytoseal.3Addtheremainingchilledpurée.Seasonwithsaltandcookoveramediumheatfor1hour25minutesoruntilthemeatistender.Keepaddingalittlewaterwhenthecurrydriesout.Thesauceshouldbethickandtheoilseparated.Seasontotasteandservehot,sprinkledwiththegarammasalaandwithrice
alongside.
KolhapuriTambdaRassa
[RICHREDMAHARASHTRIANCURRY]
KolhapurinMaharashtraisknownforitsspicy,richmeatandchickencurriesflavouredwithsmall,hot‘lavangi’chilliesandKolhapurimasala,abrightredspiceblend.SankeshwaralsoprovideschilliesforKolhapuricurriesandthesearefieryred,too!
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING1hour20minutes
800glambonthebone,diced1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspooncuminseeds1tablespoonwhitesesameseeds3tablespoonsdesiccatedcoconut2tablespoonsginger-
garlicpasteasmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves2tablespoonsvegetableoil2onions,thinlysliced3tablespoonskolhapurimasala,oramixof1tablespoongarammasala,1teaspoon
medium-hotredchillipowderand1teaspooncrushedblackpepperjuiceof1lemonsaltboiledrice,toserve
1Putthelambandturmericinapan,pourinenoughwatertocover,seasonwithsaltandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmer,covered,for1houroruntilthelambistender.2Meanwhile,heatafryingpanoverahighheat,addthecuminseedsanddry-toastthemuntiltheystarttodarken.Addthesesameseedsandcoconut,thenwhentheystarttoturngolden,tipthetoastedspicesintoablenderalongwiththeginger-garlicpasteandfreshcoriander.Pourinenoughcoldwatertojustcoverthemixtureandblitztoformapaste.3Heattheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat,addtheonionsandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft.AddtheKolhapurimasalaandthecontentsoftheblender,thenadd1tablespoonofwater–thiswillcookthespiceswithoutscorchingthemandencouragetheoiltoseparateattheedges.4Addthecookedmeatandstock,bringtotheboilandsimmerfor4–5minutestoblendtheflavours.Squeezeinthelemonjuiceandseasontotaste.Thecurry
shouldbethin,withtheoil(‘kat’)floatingontop.Servehotwithrice.
NadanBeefFry
[SPICYBEEFWITHONIONS]
ThisfamousChristiandishfromKeralausessweetshallotscalled‘chuvanulli’.Ifyoucannotfindshallots,youcanuseonions.ManyHindusinKeralaeatbeef,andsuchdelicaciesareservedinsmallbarscalled‘toddyshops’allaroundthestate.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING1hour15minutes
boiledrice,RotisorPaalaada,toserveForthespicemix1teaspoonfennelseeds1smallcinnamonstick4cloves2staranise10blackpeppercornsForthecurry800gbonelessbeef,cubed2tablespoonsginger-garlicpaste8shallotsor3onions,finelysliced3tablespoonsdriedcoconutslices1teaspoonmedium-
hotredchillipowder1tablespoongroundcoriander1teaspoongroundturmeric2tablespoonsmaltvinegar2tablespoonscoconutoil10–12freshor20driedcurryleaves1teaspoongarammasala
1teaspoongroundblackpeppersalt
1Heatasmallfryingpanoverahighheat,addthespicesforthespicemixanddry-toastforabout1minuteuntilslightlydarkandfragrant.Crushtoapowderinaspicemillorpestleandmortar.2Mixthebeef,crushedspicemix,ginger-garlicpaste,halftheslicedshallotsoronions,thecoconutslices,groundspicesandvinegarinabowlandseasonwithsalt.3Putthebeefinasaucepanandpourinenoughwatertocomehalfwayupthemixture.Stirandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheat,coverandsimmerfor1
hour,oruntilthebeefistender.Ifthemixturebeginstosticktothebottomofthepan,addacoupleoftablespoonsofwater,takingcarenottoaddtoomuchasthefinaldishshouldbedry.4Removethelidandcookoverahighheatuntilalltheliquidhasevaporated.5Heatanotherpanoverahighheatandaddthecoconutoil.Frythecurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter)andtipintheremainingshallotsoronions.Cookfor7–8minutesuntilsoft,thenaddthecookedbeef.6Seasontotaste,sprinkleinthegarammasalaandpepper,cookforafurtherfewminutestoblendandservehotwithrice,rotisorpaalaada.
PorkWithGaanjTenga
[CHILLIPORKWITHBAMBOOSHOOTS]
Assaminthenorth-easteatsvariousmeatssuchasporkor‘gahori’.Itiseatenonfestivedays,asmeatcanbeexpensiveandisconsideredspecial.Itissometimescombinedwithexoticingredientssuchasbambooshootsorfiddleheadfernshootscalled‘dhekia’.Thesearetheunfurledfrondsofayoungfernandlookliketightgreencoils.Ifleftontheplant,theyeventuallyopenintoafrond.Fiddleheadsareagoodsourceofomega3and6fattyacidsandarehighinfibre.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING1hour
6driedredchillies5garliccloves,chopped2.5cmpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedandchopped2
tablespoonslard2onions,thinlysliced800gporkshoulderonthebone,cubed150gfreshbambooshoot,
grated,ora225gcanofbambooshootsinwater,drainedahandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnishsalt
1Soaktheredchilliesinboilingwaterfor15minutes.Transferthesoftenedchilliestoapestleandmortarandaddthegarlicandginger.Sprinkleinsomesaltandacoupleoftablespoonsofthechillisoakingliquid.Crushtoapaste.2Heatthelardinalargefryingpanoverahighheat,addtheonionsandcookfor7–8minutesuntilbrownandsoft.3Addtheporkandcookoverahighheatfor3–4minutestosealandbrownit,thenaddthepastefromthemortarandseasonwithsalt.Ifusingfreshbambooshoots,addthemnow.Ifusingtinnedones,addthemaftertheporkhascooked.Pourinenoughwatertojustcoverthepork,bringtotheboil,thenreducetheheatandcookfor50minutes,covered,oruntilthemeatistender.Seasontotaste
andservehot,sprinkledwiththecoriander.
PorkVindaloo
[GOANPORKCURRY]
ThisisoneofthemostpopularcurriesonIndianrestaurantmenustheworldover.However,notallIndiansknowavindalooasitisaregionalGoancurryinfluencedbythePortuguese,whomadeitwith‘vinho’orwineand‘alho’orgarlic.Thewinewasreplacedwithcoconutvinegar,makingthisaspicy,tangycurrythatiseatenwithriceorsavourycakescalled‘sannas’.IntheWest,whereIndiantakeawaycurriesareclassifiedonlybyheat,avindaloosignifiesaspicyhotdishsuitableforthebrave.ButinfactatraditionalGoanvindalooneedstobeonlyashotasthecookthinksitshouldbe.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plus20minutessoakingtimeCOOKING1hour
15driedredKashmirichillies(or6–7foramildercurry),brokeninhalfandseedsshakenout5garliccloves,chopped2.5cmpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedandchopped3tablespoonscoconutorwhitevinegar3cloves
2teaspoonscuminseeds1smallcinnamonstick½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper2onions,sliced
2tablespoonsvegetableoil800gbonelesspork,cubedsaltboiledriceorAppams,toserve
1Soakthechillies,garlicandgingerinthevinegarwith½teaspoonofsaltfor20minutes.Heatafryingpanoverahighheat,addthecloves,cuminseeds,cinnamonandpepperanddry-toastfor40seconds,thenaddthesetothesoakingchillies.Tiptheonionsandthechillimixtureintoablenderandblitztoapurée,addingalittlewatertohelpturntheblades.Thisisthevindaloomasala.2Heattheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat,addtheporkandfryfor3–4minutestoseal,thentipinthevindaloomasalafromtheblender.Stirtoblendandcoatthepork.Rinseouttheblenderwithalittlewaterandaddthistothepork.Bringtotheboilthenreducetheheattomedium,coverandcookfor40minutes,untiltheporkistender.Seasontotasteandservehotwithplainriceor
appams.
MurghMakhaniMurghKaKormaMurghJalfreziMurghiNaFarchaChickenChettinadKoshaMurgirMangshoMurghAchariSeyalMurghChickenCafrealKarahiMurghKofteXacutiKozhiKuzhambuPatharePrabhuChickenMasalaKuttanadanTharavuRoastKodiKurmaKoriGassiPalakMurghKolhapuriPandhraRassaNadanKozhiIshtu
THEDOMESTICATEDCHICKENTHATWEEATTODAYISADESCENDANTOFTHEINDIANJUNGLEFOWL.TODAY,INDIANSEATMORECHICKENTHANEVERBEFORE.
ReligiousfoodtaboosinIndiameanthatbeefandporkarenotwidelyeaten.Goatandlambareexpensiveandconsideredheavyandunhealthyforregularconsumption,andAyurvedicnutritionconsidersredmeat‘heating’andacid-forminginthedigestivesystem.Chickenisthemostpopular‘non-vegetarian’foodenjoyedbyIndians,whocookitinmanyways–increamycurries,smokedandgrilled,insoupsorinrichspicedbiryanis.
ThedomesticatedchickenthatweeattodayisadescendantoftheIndianjunglefowl.Today,Indianseatmorechickenthaneverbefore–youngpeopletraveltonewplaces,worldcuisinesareofferedinrestaurantsandchickenisconsideredhealthyasithaslesssaturatedfatthanmostredmeat.Therearetwopopularvarietiesofchicken–the‘free-run’onesonsmallholdingsandthe‘broilers’rearedoncommercialpoultryfarms.
Free-runchickensarebredinvillagebackyardsandfedonkitchenscraps.Theyaremostoftenkilledforhouseholduse.Broilersarecutintopiecesandfrozenorsoldbaggedincityshops.Indiancookspreferthemeatier,moreflavourfulfree-runchicken,butthefattierbroilersareconsideredmorehygienic.Non-vegetarianfamilieslivinginvillagesoftenhaveafewchickensrunningaroundandsometimespeoplelivingontheoutskirtsofbigcitiesrearthemtosellatpoultrymarketsinthecity.
ThemostcommonmethodofbuyingchickeninIndiaistogotothechickenshop,whichwillhavemanybirdsinacoop.Youchoosetheoneyouwantanditisweighedandkilledthereandthen.Thedeadbirdisde-featheredandcutintopiecesforyou.Youpayforthewhole,livebird.Thisprocessdoesnotallowforbuyingjustthebreastorthelegs,socookswillsometimesmaketwodishesoutofonebird,althoughcurryisthemostpopularwayofeatingallcutsofchicken.Indiancooksdon’ttypicallybuyspecificcutsofchicken,asthewholebirdisusedincurries.Iftheydo–forspecificdishessuchaspan-friedkebabs–theyusechickenlegs,wingsorbreast.
AlthoughduckmeatisnotpopularalloverIndia,thesouthIndiannative
KuttanadduckisrearedforitstastymeatandeateninKerala,TamilNaduandAndhraPradesh.Duckrearingandfarmingisencouragedbysomestategovernments,andsouthIndianvarietieswereintroducedintoAssamwhenthelowproductionofeggsbythelocalduck‘Pati’couldnotmatchdemand.
GamebirdssuchaspheasantandquailarehuntedinIndianforestsbutrarelyseenonrestaurantmenusorincitykitchens.TheerstwhileMaharajasofIndiawereknownfortheirshootsandtheirrecipesincluderoastsofpeacock,blackpartridgeandjunglefowl.Today,peacock,whichisthenationalbird,isaprotectedspeciesundertheWildlifeProtectionActof1972anditshuntingispunishablebylaw.However,junglestribesandvillagerswholiveontheoutskirtsofforestsstillhuntthisbeautifulbirdasthemeatcommandsagoodprice.
TIPSFORPREPARINGANDCOOKINGCHICKEN1Removetheskin.MostIndianrecipesareforskinlesschickenasIndianspreferleanmeatandpoultryanddislikethetextureofanimalfat.2Sealthemeatratherthanbrownitwhencooking.Thishelpstolockinthejuicesbutdoesnotcreateathickbarrierthatpreventsspicesfromflavouringtheflesh.3Cookthechickenuntilitiswhitethroughout.Anypinkfleshmeansthatitneedsmorecookingtimeandisunsafetoeat.Chickenonthebonewilltakelongertocookthanbonelesschicken.
MurghMakhani
[BUTTERYCHICKENCURRY]
ThisisaverypopularnorthIndianrestaurantdish.TheoriginalrecipewascreatedbytheMotiMahalrestaurantinNewDelhianditisstillatop-seller.Marinatedchickenisusuallycookedinthetandoor,thenfoldedintoabutteryor‘makhani’sauce.Iuseamixtureofoilandbuttersothatthebutterdoesnotburnwhenheated.Youcanusepaneerinsteadofchickenforavegetarianversion.Thesauceshouldbespicy,sweetandtangy,withthefragranceofbutterandherbs.
Serves4PREPARATION→20minutes,plus1hourmarinatingtimeorovernightifpossibleCOOKING30minutes
800gskinlesschickenbreast,cutinto2.5cmcubesboiledriceorLacchaParatha,toserveForthemarinade
50gnaturalyogurt1teaspoonredKashmirichillipowder1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste2tablespoonslemonjuice½teaspoongarammasalasaltForthemakhanisauce2tablespoonssaltedbutter1tablespoonvegetableoil½teaspoondriedfenugreekleaves(kasoorimethi),plusextratoserve1freshgreenchilli,
finelychopped1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste150gtomatopurée½teaspoonKashmiriredchillipowder½teaspoongarammasala2tablespoonshoney100mlsinglecream,plusextratoserve
1Combinethemarinadeingredientsinabowlandaddthecubedchicken.Coverandleavetomarinateinthefridgeforatleastfor1hourorovernightifpossible.
2Preheattheovento200°C/gasmark6.Transferthechickenandmarinadetoanovenproofdishandbakefor10–15minutesuntiltenderandcookedthrough.3Forthemakhanisauce,heatthebutterandoilinasaucepanoverahighheatandaddthekasoorimethiandgreenchilli.Stirintheginger-garlicpaste,cookforaminuteorso,thenaddthetomatopuréeandstirtoblendforacoupleofminutes.4Mixinthechillipowder,garammasalaandhoney,andseasonwithsalt.Finishwiththecream,thenaddenoughwatertogivethesauceapouringconsistency.5Addthecookedchickentothesauce.Servewithriceorlacchaparatha,withaswirlofsinglecreamandasprinklingofkasoorimethi.
MurghKaKorma
[CREAMYCHICKENCURRY]
Theword‘korma’comesfromtheTurkish‘kavurma’,whichmeans‘braisedmeat’.Thewordisvariouslyspeltas‘quorma’or‘qorma’andisoftenthickenedwithnutsandcream.Inthesouth,akurmaissimilarbuthascoconutinthecurrysauce.InIndiantakeawaysintheWest,akormaisapopulardishamongstthosewhodonotenjoychillies,asithascometomeanapale,sweetcurrythatisclassifiedasmild.However,somekormasinIndia,suchastheKashmiri‘MarchwanganKorma’,madewithmuttonandlotsofchilli,canbesearinglyhot.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING35minutes
1largeonion,sliced1freshgreenchilli,chopped50gunsaltedcashewnuts3tablespoonsvegetableoil2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste800gskinlesschickenbreast,cubed1teaspoongroundcoriander1teaspoongroundcumin½teaspoongarammasala,plusextratoserve½teaspoongroundturmeric2tablespoonssinglecream(optional)saltboiledrice,RotisorParathas,toserve
1Puttheonion,chilliandcashewnutsinapanwithalittlewaterandbringtotheboil.Simmerforabout10minutes,untiltheonionisverysoft,thentransfertoablenderandblitztoapaste,addingwaterasnecessarytoturntheblades.Set
aside.2Heattheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat,thenaddtheginger-garlicpaste,followedbythechicken,andfryuntilsealed.3Seasonwithsaltandstirinthegroundspices,thenaddtheonionpurée.Rinseouttheblenderwithafewtablespoonsofwaterandaddthistothepan.Cookfor12–15minutesuntilthechickenistenderandcookedthrough.4Stirinthecream,ifusing,andheatthrough.Seasontotaste,sprinklewithapinchofgarammasalaandservehotwithrice,rotisorparathas.
MurghJalfrezi
[CHICKENCURRYWITHPEPPERS]
Anotherrestaurantcurry,thishasdistinctchunksofonion,pepperandtomatoesinit.Restaurantcurrieshavespecificnameslike‘jalfrezi’.Athomethiswouldsimplybecalledachickencurry,andpepperswouldbeaddedasavariation.ItissaidtobeacreationoftheRaj,whereleftovermeatwasstirredintoaspicedhotsauce,suchastheonehere,called‘jhal’inBengali.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING45minutes
3tablespoonsvegetableoil2largeonions,onethinlysliced,theothercutintolargechunks1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste
2teaspoonstomatopurée1teaspooncuminseeds600gskinlesschickenbreast,cubed1largegreenpepper,deseededandthinlysliced½
teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder½teaspoongroundcoriander1ripetomato,sliced
asmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnishsaltboiledriceorRotis,toserve
1Heat2tablespoonsoftheoilinaheavy-basedfryingpanoverahighheatandfrytheslicedonionfor7–8minutesuntilsoft.Addtheginger-garlicpasteandthetomatopuréeandfryforafurther3–4minutesuntilwellblended.Removefromtheheat,leavetocoolslightly,thentransfertoablenderandblitzuntilsmooth,addingenoughwatertoturnthebladesandmakeathickcurrypaste.Setaside.2Heattheremainingoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheatandfrythecuminseedsuntiltheydarkenslightly,thenaddthechickenandfryuntilsealed.Addthegreenpepperandchunksofonion,sprinkleinthegroundspices,stirinthecurrypasteandseasonwithsalt.Pourinabout100mlwatertomakeathicksauceconsistencyandcookoveramediumheatfor12–15minutes,untilthechickeniscookedthrough.
3Addthetomatoandcookforacoupleofminutesuntilsoftbutnotmushy,thenremovefromtheheat.Seasontotaste,garnishwiththecorianderandservehotwithriceorrotis.
MurghiNaFarcha
[PARSI-STYLEFRIEDCHICKEN]
Iremembereatingthiscrisp,deliciouschickenatParsiweddingsasachild.ItisservedatParsicelebrations,asbeingdeep-fried,itisnotcookedveryoftenathome.Also,itisinterestingthatinIndiamanyfriedfoodssuchasthisoneareservedwithtomatoketchup,alegacyoftheRaj.Indianslovethesweet,tangyflavourofketchupandseveralvarietiesareavailablewithaddedspicessuchascuminorchilli.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plus1hourmarinatingtimeorovernightifpossibleCOOKING35minutes
1teaspoongarammasala2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongroundcumin1teaspoongroundcoriander1teaspoongroundturmeric2tablespoonslemonjuice4chickenlegs,skinnedandhalvedatthejointvegetableoil,fordeep-fryingplainflour,for
dusting3largeeggs,beatensaltandfreshlygroundblackpeppertomatoketchup,toserve
1Combinethegarammasala,ginger-garlicpaste,chillipowder,cumin,coriander,turmeric,lemonjuiceandsaltandpeppertoseasoninalargebowl.2Piercethechickenlegs,addthemtothebowlandcoattheminthemarinade,coverandleavetomarinateinthefridgeforatleast1hourorovernightifpossible.3Heatenoughoilinawokorkarahitodeep-frythechickeninasinglelayer.Whenveryhot,reducetheheatslightly.Placesomeflourinashallowbowlandthebeateneggsinanothershallowbowl,thendipeachpieceofmarinatedchickenintotheflourthenthebeateneggandlowercarefullyintothehotoil.
(Youmayhavetodothisinbatches.)Cookoveramediumheatfor8–9minutesuntilgoldenbrown,spooningthehotoiloverthechickentocookitevenly.Liftoutwithaslottedspoonandcheckifitiscookedthroughbycuttingintothemeatnearthebone–themeatshouldbewhite.Drainonkitchenpaper.Cooktheremainingchickeninthesamewayandservehotwithtomatoketchup.
ChickenChettinad
[SPICYSOUTHINDIANCHICKENCURRY]
TheveryspicyfoodofChettinad,aregioninTamilNadu,issuitedtothedry,hotlandandingredientsareoftencookedinsesameoil,whichaddsauniqueflavour.Itisacuisineofrichmeatandchickencurriesflavouredwitharomaticspicessuchasstaraniseandcinnamon.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING25minutes
4driedredchillies,brokeninhalf½teaspoonblackpeppercorns,crushed1teaspoonaniseed
4cloves3greencardamompods,seedsremovedandhusksdiscarded½teaspoongroundcinnamon
2tablespoonssunflowerorsesameoil8–10freshor15driedcurryleaves3staranise2greenchillies,finelydiced2onions,chopped1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste1tomato,chopped½teaspoongroundturmeric800gboneless,skinlesschickenthighs,cutinto2.5cmpiecesa
handfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnishsaltboiledrice,RotisorDosas,toserve
1Heatafryingpanoverahighheat,addthechillies,crushedpeppercorns,aniseed,clovesandcardamomseedsanddry-toastuntiltheybegintodarkenanddevelopanaroma.Removefromtheheatandcrushtoapowderinapestleandmortarorspicemillthenmixinthecinnamon.Setaside.2Heattheoilinthefryingpanoverahighheatanddropinthecurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter),staranise,chilliesandonions.Stir-fryfor7–8minutesuntiltheonionsaresoft,thentipintheginger-garlicpasteandstir,addthetomatoandseasonwithsalt.Cookfor3–4minutesuntilwellblended.3Addthegroundspicesandturmeric,thenstirinthechickenandcookuntilsealedonallsides.
4Addafewtablespoonsofwaterandcookfor15–20minutesuntilthechickeniscooked.Seasontotaste,sprinklewiththecorianderandservehotwithrice,rotisordosas.
KoshaMurgirMangsho
[BENGALICHICKENCURRY]
WhenIwasyoung,mymotheremployedaBengalicookwhomadethiscurryonhisfirstdayinourkitchen.Iwasquiteexcitedaboutthis‘new’recipeandloveditatfirstbiteforitsrichtomatosauce.Foodlinkedtomemoriesisalwaysspecialanditremainsoneofmyfavouritecurries.Itiscookedwithoutwatermakingitquiterichandoily,butthat’swhyitissodelicious!
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING45minutes
3tablespoonsmustardorvegetableoil2bayleaves4cloves4greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded3largeonions,finelydiced2
teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste2freshgreenchillies,slitlengthways3tomatoes,finelychopped1teaspoonground
turmeric1teaspoongroundcumin1teaspoongroundcoriander½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder800gchickenthighs
onthebone,skinnedandfleshcutinto4cmpiecessaltahandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnishboiledriceorPooris,toserve
1Heattheoilinafryingpantosmokingpointthenreducetheheat.Addthewholespicesandthecrushedcardamomseeds.Whentheysizzleanddarken,addtheonionsandfryfor8–10minutesuntiltheyareverysoft.2Stirtheginger-garlicpasteandchilliesintotheonionsandcookfor1minute,thentipinthetomatoesandcookfor3–4minutesuntiltheysoften.3Addthegroundspices,stirafewtimes,thenaddthechickenandsalttoseason.Cookoverahighheatfor3–4minutestoseal,thenreducetheheatandsimmerfor20minutesuntilthechickenistenderandcookedthrough.Keepspooningthesauceoverthechickenfromtimetotime,toensureitcooksevenly.Seasontotaste,sprinklewithcorianderandservehotwithriceorpooris.
MurghAchari
[CHICKENINPICKLINGSPICES]
‘Achaar’inHindimeans‘pickle’andthisnorthIndiancurryusestraditionalpicklingspicessuchasfennelandmustardforflavourandheat.Manyversionsexistbutyoucanuseasmanyorasfewchilliesasyoulike.Ipreferthiscurrytobefragrantratherthanhotandit’sbestenjoyedwitharotiornaantomopupthetangysauce.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING45minutes
2tablespoonssunflowerormustardoil1teaspoonblackmustardseeds1teaspooncuminseeds
1teaspoonnigellaseeds1teaspoonfennelseeds½teaspoonfenugreekseeds2largeonions,finelydiced2teaspoonginger-garlicpaste2tablespoonstomatopurée800gboneless,skinlesschickenthighs1teaspoonground
turmeric½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongarammasala3tablespoonsfull-fatyogurtgoodsqueezeoflemonjuicesaltboiledrice,Rotis,PoorisorNaans,toserve
1Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheatandaddthewholespices.Whentheypop,sizzleanddarken,addtheonions.Fryfor8–10minutesuntilverysoft,thenstirintheginger-garlicpasteandtomatopurée.Cookforacoupleofminutes.2Addthechickenandfrytoseal,thenreducetheheattopreventthemixturefromstickingtothebottomofthepan.Sprinkleinthegroundspices,stirafewtimestocoatthechickenandpourin100mlwater.Seasonwithsalt,coverandcookfor20–25minutesuntilthechickeniscookedthrough,addingmorewaterifnecessarytostopthecurryfromdryingout.3Foldintheyogurtandlemonjuice,seasontotaste,simmerforacoupleofminutesthenservehotwithrice,rotis,poorisornaans.
SeyalMurgh
[SINDHI-STYLECHICKENCURRY]
IgrewupinMumbaiamongstSindhifamilyfriends.FoodwouldbeexchangedonSundays–theirkidslovedthecoconut-basedcurriesofMaharashtriancooking–andIbecamefamiliarwithclassicssuchSindhiKadhi,avegetablecurrywithgramflour,and‘Saibhaji’,amixedgreenvegetablesidedishand,manyyearslater,stillcookthemformychildren.TheSindhis,originallyfromPakistan,areHindusorSikhswhomovedtoIndiaduringthePartitionof1947.‘Seyal’referstoadishcookedwithverylittlewater.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING45minutes
2tablespoonsvegetableoil2onions,finelydiced2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste2freshgreenchillies,dicedasmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,finelychopped3tomatoes,halvedandcutsides
grated(skindiscarded)1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongroundcoriander1teaspoongarammasala800gboneless,skinlesschickenthighs3tablespoonsfull-fatyogurt3greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded,togarnishsaltRotisorboiledrice,toserve
1Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheat,addtheonionsandfryfor8–10minutesuntilverysoft,goldenandcaramelised.Stirintheginger-garlicpaste,greenchilliesandfreshcorianderandcookfor2minutes,thentipinthegratedtomatoesandcookfor2–3minutesuntilsoftandwellblended.2Addthegroundspicesandcookfor5–6minutesuntiltheoilseparates.Thiswillhappenfasterifyoucoverthepan.3Addthechickenthighsandseasonwithsalt.Cookoverahighheattoseal,then
reducetheheattomedium.Pourintheyogurt,coverandcookfor15–20minutesuntilthechickeniscookedthrough.Seasontotasteandservehot,sprinkledwiththecrushedcardamom,alongsiderotisorrice.
ChickenCafreal
[GOANGREENCHICKEN]
IntroducedtoGoabythePortuguese,whohadtheirstrongholdtherefrom1510AD,thisisalwaysmadewithchickenlegs,issemi-drytodryandcanbeeatenwithriceorbread.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plus1hourmarinatingtimeorovernightifpossibleCOOKING35minutes
1teaspooncuminseeds1smallcinnamonstick1teaspooncorianderseeds10blackpeppercorns1largebunchoffreshcorianderleaves2.5cmpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedand
chopped5garliccloves,chopped2freshgreenchillies,chopped2tablespoonswhitewinevinegar1teaspoonground
turmeric4chickenlegs,skinnedandhalvedatthejoint2tablespoonsvegetableoil1onion,thinlysliced
saltlimewedges,toserveboiledriceorbreads,toserve(optional)
1Heatasmallfryingpanoverahighheat,addthecuminseeds,cinnamonstick,corianderseedsandpeppercornsanddry-toastuntiltheystarttodarkenandbecomefragrant.Removefromtheheatandcrushtoapowderinapestleandmortarorspicemill.2Putthecorianderleaves,ginger,garlic,chilliesandvinegarinablenderwithenoughwatertoturntheblades.Blitztoapurée,seasonwithsaltandaddtheturmeric.Mixinthecrushedspices.Thisisthecafrealmasala.3Piercethechickenlegsandplacetheminacontainerwiththecafrealmasala,turningthemtocoat,andmarinateinthefridgeforatleast1hourorovernightifpossible.4Heattheoilinapanoverahighheatandfrytheonionfor6–7minutesuntil
soft,thenaddthechickenandfrytoseal.5Addenoughwatertocoatthebaseofthepan,coverandcookoveramediumheatfor30minutes,addingwaterasnecessary.Bythetimethechickeniscookedthrough,thewatershouldhaveevaporated.Seasontotaste,andservehotwiththelimewedges,andriceorbread,ifyoulike.
MASTERCLASS
METHIMURGH–ChickenCurrywithFenugreek
Thewarm,earthytasteoffenugreekcomplementsthecreaminessofchickeninthisrecipe,whichismadeallovernorthIndia.Ihaveusedbothfreshanddriedfenugreekleavesfordepthandintensity.Fenugreekleavescantastequitebitteriftheyarenotcookedforlongenough,whichiswhyinmostrecipes,suchasthisone,theyareaddedtowardsthebeginning.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING45minutes
YOUWILLNEED:3tablespoonsvegetableoil2largeonions,sliced2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste2freshgreenchillies,minced1teaspoondriedfenugreekleaves(kasoorimethi)4
chickenlegs,skinnedandhalvedatthejoint1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongroundcoriander1teaspoongroundcumin
1teaspoongarammasala1tablespoontomatopurée1bunchoffreshfenugreekleaves,cleanedandchopped(discardlargestems,retain
thefineones)2tablespoonsfull-fatyogurtsaltRotisorParathas,toserve
1Heathalftheoilinaheavy-basedfryingpanoverahighheat,addtheonionsandfryfor8–10minutesuntilverysoftandgolden,thentipintheginger-garlicpasteandgreenchilliesandfryforaminute.Removefromtheheat,transfertoablenderandblitztoapastewithenoughwatertoturntheblades.Thisisthecurrypaste.
2Heattheremainingoilinaheavy-basedpanoverahighheat.Addthedriedfenugreek,cookforafewsecondsthenaddthechickenandfryuntilsealed.
3Tipinthegroundspicesandtomatopurée,thenaddthefreshfenugreekandfryfor5–6minutesuntilwilted.Pourinthecurrypaste.Rinseouttheblenderwithalittlewaterandaddthewatertothepan.Addtheyogurtandseasonwithsalt.Cookfor12–15minutes,untilthechickenistenderandcookedthroughandthefenugreekhascompletelysoftened.Seasontotasteandservehotwithrotisorparathas.
KarahiMurghKofte
[CHICKENMEATBALLSINATOMATOCURRY]
Meatballsaretraditionallyservedwithadipasacocktailsnack,orstirredintocurriesastheyarehere.Youcanbaketheminanovenat200°C/gasmark6for10minutesifservingthemasasnack.A‘karahi’literallyjustmeansthatthedishhasbeencookedina‘karahi’dish!
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING30minutes
600gchickenmince1freshgreenchilli,veryfinelydiced2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste2tablespoonsvegetableoil2onions,finelydiced1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongroundcoriander1teaspoongroundcumin1teaspoongarammasala½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder2tablespoonstomatopurée,½canoftinned
choppedtomatoesor4freshtomatoes,chopped½teaspooncastersugarasmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnish1.5cmpieceoffreshroot
ginger,scrapedandjuliennedsaltRotisorboiledrice,toserve
1Combinethechickenminceinabowlwiththegreenchilli,halftheginger-garlicpasteandseasonwithsalt.Formintosmallballsorkoftaseachthesizeofalargecherry.Setaside.2Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheat,addtheonionsandfryfor8–10minutesuntilverysoftandgolden.Stirintheremainingginger-garlicpasteandthegroundspices.Cookforafewminutes,addingasplashofwatertohelpthespicescookwithoutburning,thenaddthetomatopurée,tinnedtomatoesorfreshtomatoesandsugar.Pourin200mlwater,seasonwithsaltandbringtotheboil.Slipinthekoftasandbringthecurrybacktotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor10–15minutesuntilthemeatballsarecookedthroughandthesaucehasthickenedslightly.3Seasontotasteandservehot,sprinkledwiththecorianderandjulienned
ginger,alongsidericeorrotis.
Xacuti
[GOANCOCONUTCHICKENCURRY]
Pronounced‘shakooti’,thisPortuguese-inspiredcurryisalsocalled‘sagoti’,andcanbemadewithprawnsormeat.Itisathickcurrymadeashotormildasthecooklikesit,andisapartofthelocalChristiancuisinealloverGoa.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING1hour
2tablespoonsvegetableoil1smallcinnamonstick10blackpeppercorns5driedredKashmirichillies,brokeninhalfandseedsshakenout1tablespooncoriander
seeds1teaspoonfennelseeds1teaspoonwhitepoppyseeds2onions,sliced2.5cmpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedandchopped7garliccloves,chopped4
tablespoonsfreshgratedcoconut,ordesiccatedcoconutsoakedfor20minutesinwarmwater800gchickenlegs,skinnedandhalvedatthejoint1teaspoongroundturmeric3tomatoes,finelychoppedsalt
fewshavingsofnutmeg,toserve
1Heathalftheoilinafryingpanoverahighheatandaddalltheingredientsfromthecinnamontothepoppyseeds.Assoonastheystarttosizzle,tipintheonionsandfryfor7–8minutesuntilverysoftandgolden,thenaddthegingerandgarlicandfryforaminuteorso.2Stirinthecoconutandfryuntiltoastedandbrown,stirringcontinuouslytopreventitfromscorching.Tipthismixtureintoablenderandaddenoughwatertojustcoverit.Blitztoafinepuréeandsetaside.3Heattheremainingoilinthesamefryingpan(aftergivingitawipe)overahighheat,addthechickenpiecesandfryuntilsealedandlightbrown.Sprinkleinsalttoseasonandtheturmericandcookforaminuteorso,thenpourinthepuréefromtheblenderandrinsetheblenderoutwithalittlewater.Pourthisinaswell.Addthetomatoes,bringtotheboilthenreducetheheatandsimmerfor15–20minutesoruntilthechickeniscookedthrough.Seasontotasteandservehot
withafewshavingsofnutmeg.
KozhiKuzhambu
[MADURAICHICKENCURRY]
ThiscurrycomesfromtheMadurairegionofTamilNaduandiscookedbytheNaidusandReddiyarswholivethere.Theirspicy,fragrantcuisineissofamousthatithasgivenrisetospecialityrestaurantsthatarerenownedfortheirmeatandchickencurriesandbiryani.Thesearehighlyspicedwithpepperandgarammasalayetarequitelightandnotoily,unlikemanyofthecurriesfoundinIndianrestaurantsallovertheworld.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING1hour
1teaspooncorianderseeds4driedredKashmirichillies,brokeninhalfandseedsshakenout10blackpeppercorns1teaspoonuncookedrice1teaspoonfennelseeds1tablespoonwhitepoppyseeds1tablespoonsplitgramlentils(chanadal)2tablespoonsdesiccatedcoconut2tablespoons
sesameorvegetableoil1teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseeds2onions,finelydiced7–8freshor10driedcurryleaves2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste2tomatoes,chopped800gchickenlegs,skinnedandhalvedatthejoint1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongarammasalaasmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnishsaltboiledrice,toserve
1Heatasmallfryingpanoverahighheat,addthecorianderseeds,chillies,peppercorns,rice,fennelseeds,poppyseeds,chanadalandcoconutanddry-toastfor4–5minutesuntilgoldenandfragrant,stirringtoavoidthemscorching.Removefromtheheat,tipintoapestleandmortarorspicemillandcrushtoapowder.Setaside.2Heattheoilinaheavy-basedpanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheystarttopop,addtheonionsandfryfor7–8minutesuntilverysoft.3Addthecurryleavesandginger-garlicpaste.(Standbackfromthepanifusing
freshleaves,astheywillsplutter.)4Stirinthechoppedtomatoesandcookforacoupleofminutesuntilsoft,thenaddthechickenlegstothepanandcookfor3–4minutesuntilsealed.Sprinkleinthegroundspices,includingthegroundspicemix,andseasonwithsalt.5Pourin200mlwaterandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheat,coverandsimmerfor25–30minutesuntilthechickeniscookedthrough.Seasontotaste,sprinklewiththecorianderandservehotwithrice.
PatharePrabhuChickenMasala
[CHICKENCURRYWITHCREAMANDSPICES]
ThePatharePrabhucommunityofMumbaiaregreatphilanthropistsandhighlyeducated.TheyworkedcloselywiththeBritishduringtheRajandadoptedmanyoftheircustoms,suchasdressandspeech.Thewomenstartedwearingsareeblouses,influencedbytheEuropean‘bonbon’sleeves,andthemenworewaistcoats.ManywereeducatedinEnglishandtookuplawandadministration.Theircuisineisadelicatemixofstyles,richandvariedandwithsubtleforeigninfluences,suchastheuseofbrothsandstocksratherthantheheavycurrybasesfoundovermostofIndia.Theymakeaspecialcurrypowdercalled‘parbhisambhar’whichisaddedtomanycurriesforadelicateyetfragranteffect.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plus2hoursmarinatingtimeorovernightifpossibleCOOKING45minutes
2teaspoonsgroundturmeric2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste3tablespoonsfull-fatyogurt800gchickenlegs,skinnedandhalvedatthejoint2
tablespoonsvegetableoil2onions,sliced2tomatoes,chopped½teaspoonmedium-hotchillipowder1teaspoongroundcoriander2teaspoonsparbhi
sambharpowderorgarammasala1teaspooncastersugar2tablespoonssinglecreamasmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnishsaltRotisorboiledrice,toserve
1Combinehalftheturmeric,halftheginger-garlicpaste,yogurtandsalttoseasoninabowl.Addthechicken,coatitinthismixture,coverandmarinateinthefridgefor2hoursorovernightifpossible.2Heathalftheoilinapanoverahighheat,addtheonionsandfryfor8–10minutesuntilverysoftandgolden.Addtheremainingginger-garlicpasteand
thetomatoes.Fryuntilsoft,thenremovefromtheheat,tipthemixtureintoablender,addenoughwatertocoverandblitztoapurée.Thisisthemasalapaste.3Heattheremainingoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat.Liftthechickenoutofthemarinadeandaddittothepan.(Themarinadewillgoinabitlater.)Fryfor4–5minutestoseal.4Sprinkleinthegroundspicesandtheremainingturmericandstirafewtimes,thenpourinthemasalapaste.Rinsetheblenderwithafewtablespoonsofwaterandpourthisin.Addtheremainingmarinadetothepan,seasonwithsalt(nottoomuchasthechickenhasalreadybeenseasoned),sprinkleinthesugarandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor25–30minutesuntilthechickenistenderandcookedthrough.Seasontotaste,stirinthecreamandservehot,sprinkledwiththecoriander,alongsiderotisorrice.
KuttanadanTharavuRoast
[PEPPERYKERALADUCK]
Duckmeatiseateninsomesouthernandeasternstates,suchasKeralaandAssam,wheregovernmentinitiativeshaveencouragedtherearingofthesebirds.
Serves4PREPARATION→Preparationtime:15minutes,plus30minutesmarinatingtimeCOOKING1hour15minutes
4shallots,chopped2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder3teaspoonsgroundcoriander1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongarammasala1teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper3greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusks
discarded1teaspoongroundcinnamon2tablespoonsmaltvinegar800gducklegs,halvedatthejoint(leavetheskinonoroffasperyourpreference)2
tablespoonssunflowerorcoconutoil2onions,thinlysliced6–7freshor10driedcurryleavessaltAppamsorPaalaada,toserve
1Putalltheingredientsfromtheshallotstothevinegarinablenderandblitztoapurée,addingenoughwatertoturntheblades.Seasonwithsaltandtransfertoabowl.Rinseouttheblenderwith100mlwaterandsetthisasideseparately.2Rubhalfofthecurrypasteontotheducklegsandsetthemasidetomarinatefor30minutes.3Heattheoilinasaucepanoverahighheat,addtheonionsandfryfor8–10minutesuntilverysoft.Addthecurryleavesandfryfor1minute,thenaddthemarinatedducklegstothepanandcookoverahighheatfor5–6minutestosealandbrownthemeat.4Stirintheremainingcurrypasteandpourinthereservedwaterfromthe
blender.Bringthecurrytotheboil,cover,reducetheheatandsimmerfor40–50minutesuntiltheduckistenderandthesauceisthick,addingasplashofwaterfromtimetotimeifthecurrydriesup.Thefinaldishshouldhaveathicksaucecoatingtheduckratherthanacurrysauce.Seasontotasteandservehotwithappamsorpaalaada.
KodiKurma
[ANDHRA-STYLECURRYWITHPOPPYSEEDS]
Andhracookingistypicallyhot,especiallyintheregionnearGunturwhichgrowsmostofthechilliesthatIndiaexportsaroundtheworld.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING45minutes
2tablespoonswhitepoppyseeds3tablespoonsgratedfreshcoconut,ordesiccatedcoconutsoakedinhotwaterfor20minutes1tablespoonhalvedcashewnuts2tablespoonsvegetableoil2staranise
2bayleaves3cloves1smallcinnamonstick7–8freshor10driedcurryleaves2largeonions,finelydiced2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste800gboneless,skinlesschickenthighs,cutinto4cmpieces1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongarammasala2tomatoes,choppedasmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnishsaltboiledrice,toserve
1Heatasmallfryingpanoverahighheat,addthepoppyseeds,coconutandcashewsanddry-toastuntiltheyturngolden,stirringfrequently.Transfertoablenderwithenoughwatertojustcoverandblitztoafinepurée.Setaside.2Heattheoilinaheavy-basedpanoverahighheat,addthewholespicesandfryforaminuteorsountiltheysizzle,thentipinthecurryleavesandonions.Fryfor8–10minutesuntiltheonionsareverysoftandgolden.3Stirintheginger-garlicpastethenaddthechicken.Cookoverahighheatfor4–5minutestoseal.4Mixinthegroundspices.After1minute,addthetomatoes.Whenthetomatoeshavesoftened,pourinthepuréefromtheblender.Rinsetheblenderwithabout100mlwaterandpourthisinaswell.Seasonwithsalt.Bringtotheboilthenreducetheheatandsimmerfor25minutesorsountilthechickenis
cookedthroughandtender.Sprinklewithcorianderandservehotwithrice.
KoriGassi
[SPICYCHICKENANDCOCONUTCURRY]
ThisisaspecialityoftheTulu-speakingBuntcommunityofMangaloreinKarnataka.Theircuisineisbasedonspicessuchaspepperandgarammasala,andcoconut–fresh,desiccatedorasmilk.ManysouthIndianrestaurantsacrossIndiaareownedbypeopleoriginatingfromthisregionandthiscurryhasbecomefamousbyfeaturingonsomanyoftheirrestaurantmenus.ItisaspicycurrythatiseatenwithlightpancakescalledNeerDosaorwithrice.Isometimesmakeavegetarianversionwithcauliflower.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING40minutes
4tablespoonsvegetableoil1tablespooncorianderseeds½teaspoonfenugreekseeds2onions,sliced3tablespoonsdesiccatedcoconut1teaspoongarammasala2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste7–8freshor10driedcurryleaves800gchickenthighsonthebone,skinremoved1teaspoon
medium-hotchillipowder1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper2tomatoes,chopped2tablespoonstamarindpulporshop-boughttamarindpaste300mlcoconutmilksaltNeerDosaorboiledrice,toserve
1Heathalftheoilinaheavy-basedfryingpanoverahighheatandaddthecorianderandfenugreekseeds.Fryforaminuteuntiltheystarttodarkenthenaddtheonions.Stirfor8–10minutesuntilsoftandbrown.2Addthecoconut,garammasalaandginger-garlicpasteandstirfor3–4minutesuntilthemixtureturnsgolden,thenremovefromtheheat,coolandtransfertoablender.Blitzuntilsmooth,withenoughwatertoturntheblades.Setaside.
3Heattheremainingoilinafryingpanoverahighheatandaddthecurryleavesandchicken(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter).Stirtoseal,thenaddthechillipowder,groundturmericandpepperandseasonwithsalt.Addthetomatoesandtamarindpaste.Cookoverahighheatfor3–4minutestosoftenthetomatoes,thentipintheonionandcoconutmixturefromtheblender.Rinseouttheblenderwithalittlewaterandpourthisintothecurry.Bringtotheboilthenreducetheheat,coverandsimmerfor20minutesuntilthechickenistenderandcookedthrough.4Stirinthecoconutmilk,seasontotaste,heatthroughandservehotwithriceorNeerDosa.
PalakMurgh
[CHICKENANDSPINACHCURRY]
Ilovethecreamycombinationofspinachandchicken,andoftenaddwhatevergreenvegetablesIcanfindinmyfridge,includingbroccoliandbeans,tothesauce.Thefriedgreenchilliesaddedattheendaddafreshherbyflavour,butyoucanleavethemoutifyoupreferamilderdish.ThisrecipeisfromnorthIndia,wheremeatandchickenisoftencombinedwithvegetablessuchasspinach,fenugreek,okraorcorn.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING45minutes
1bunchofspinach,washedahandfuloffreshdill,choppedalargehandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped2
tablespoons,plus1teaspoonvegetableoil(forfryingthechillies,optional)2mediumonions,thinlysliced1teaspoondriedfenugreekleaves(kasoorimethi–optional)2freshgreenchillies,chopped2tablespoonsginger-garlicpaste
2tablespoonstomatopurée800gchickenlegs,skinnedandhalvedatthejoint1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoonmedium-hotchillipowder1teaspoongroundcoriander1teaspoongarammasala1tablespoonlemonjuice2freshgreenchillies,slitlengthways(optional)saltRotis,Parathasorboiledrice,toserve
1Putthespinachinasaucepanandcookoveramediumheatfor3–4minutesuntiljustwilted.Removefromtheheatandtransfertoablenderwiththedillandcorianderandafewtablespoonsofwater.Blitztoafinepurée,thensetaside.2Heat2tablespoonsoftheoilinaheavy-basedpanoverahighheat,addtheonionsandfryfor7–8minutesuntilverysoft.3Addthekasoorimethiordriedfenugreekleaves(ifusing),chillies,ginger-garlicpasteandthetomatopuréeandfryforafewminutes.Addacoupleoftablespoonsofwaterandcookforafurther1–2minutesuntiltheoilseparates.4Addthechickenlegs,fryfor2–3minutestoseal,thenstirinthegroundspices.
Seasonwithsalt,drizzleinthelemonjuiceandmixwell.Pourinabout150mlwaterandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheat,coverandcookfor20–25minutesuntilthechickenistenderandcookedthrough.5Stirinthepuréedgreens,seasontotaste,andremovefromtheheat.6Ifyouwanttoservethecurrywithfriedgreenchillies,heatateaspoonofoilinasmallfryingpanoverahighheat,addthegreenchilliesandfryfor40secondsorsountiltheystarttochangecolour.Pourtheoilandchilliesoverthecurryandservehotwithrotis,parathasorboiledrice.
KolhapuriPandhraRassa
[MAHARASHTRIANWHITECHICKENCURRY]
ThisKolhapuricurryisfamousforitsunusualwhite(pandhra)colourandcanbemadewithmuttonorlamb.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plussoakingtimeCOOKING45minutes
800gchickenthighsonthebone2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste1tablespoonwhitesesameseeds,soakedinalittlewarmwaterfor30minutes1tablespoon
whitepoppyseeds,soakedinalittlewarmwaterfor30minutes2tablespoonsunsaltedcashewnuts,soakedinalittlewarmwaterfor30minutes2freshgreenchillies,diced200mlcoconutmilk
2tablespoonsvegetableoil4cloves1smallcinnamonstick4greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded2bayleaves1onion,finelydicedsaltboiledrice,toserve
1Putthechicken,salttoseasonandhalftheginger-garlicpasteinasaucepanandpourinenoughwatertojustcover.Bringtotheboilthenreducetheheatandsimmerfor15–20minutesuntilthechickenistenderandcookedthrough.Liftthechickenoutwithaslottedspoonandreserveboththechickenandthestockinwhichithasbeencooked.2Meanwhile,putthesesameandpoppyseedsalongwiththecashewnutsinablender.Addthechilliesandblitzforafewminutes,addingalittlewaterifnecessary,tomakeafinepurée.Transferthepuréetoabowlandaddthecoconutmilk.3Heattheoilinaheavy-basedfryingpanoverahighheatandaddthecloves,cinnamon,cardamomandbayleaves.Whentheybegintosizzleanddarken,addtheonionandcookfor8–10minutesuntilverysoft.Stirintheremainingginger-garlicpaste,cookforafewseconds,thenpourinthestockfromStep1andbringtotheboil.Addthecookedchickenandstirinthewhitepaste.Heat
thecurrywithoutallowingittoboil,asitisquitedelicateandcansplitifcookedtoahightemperature.Seasontotasteandservehotwithrice.
NadanKozhiIshtu
[KERALACHICKENSTEW]
ThiscurryisofteneatenforbreakfastonChristmasdayoronSundaysinSyrianChristianhomesinKeralabecausepeoplebelieveincookingalittleofmanymeatsonfestivedays.AChristmasmenumayhaveachickenstew,duckroastandabeefdishandtherearealwayslotsoffamilyandfriendsaroundthetabletofinishitall.
Serves5PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING50minutes
400mlcoconutmilk2onions,sliced2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste2carrots,peeledandcutintothickchunks1largepotato,peeledandquartered800g
boneless,skinlesschickenthighs(orskinleftonforafattierstew)1teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper1tablespoonwhitewinevinegarordistilledvinegar1tablespooncoconutorvegetableoil4cloves
2staranise1smallcinnamonstick7–8freshor10driedcurryleaves1teaspooncornflour,mixedwithalittlewatertomakea
pastesaltboiledrice,breadrollsorAppams,toserve
1Shakethecanofcoconutmilk,thenopenitanddividethecontentsofthecanbetweentwoseparatebowls.Addhalfacanofwatertoonebowltomakeathincoconutmilk.Theotherbowlcontainsthethickmilk.2Puttheonions,ginger-garlicpaste,carrots,potato,chickenandpepperinasaucepanandseasonwithsalt.Pourinthevinegarandthethincoconutmilk.Bringtotheboilthenreducetheheatandsimmerfor25–30minutesuntilthevegetablesaretenderandthechickeniscookedthrough.3Heattheoilinasmallsaucepanoverahighheatandaddthewholespices.Whentheystarttosizzleaddthecurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter).Pourthisintothestew,thenstirinthe
cornflourpasteandthickcoconutmilk.Bringtoalmostboilingpointthenremovefromtheheat.Seasontotasteandservehotwithboiledrice,breadrollsorappams.
KeralaFishMoleeGoenchiKodiMalvaniRus-GolichiAmtiBhujaneChingriMaccherMalaikariVanjaramMeenVaruvalKolmiFryKhekdaMasalaRoyallaVepuduShorsheChingriBhapaFishRecheadoDoiMachSuraPuttuMashyachiAmtiMaccherJholKolmiNoPatioKanavaThoranKonkaniChimboriMasalaMacchiMasalaMasorTenga
FISHHASBEENEATENININDIASINCEANCIENTTIMES.CAVEPAINTINGSINBHIMBETKAINCENTRALINDIA,CONSIDEREDTOBE30,000YEARSOLD,INCLUDEIMAGESOFFISH,
ANDATOTHERNEARBYSITESTHEREISEVIDENCEOFFISHINGWITHNETSANDSTONES.
Withover4,000milesofcoastlineandhundredsofrivers,suchastheGangaandtheNarmada,Indiaisrichwithfishandseafood.Coastalregionshavefishingcommunities–inMumbaiitisthe‘Kolis’,whoareconsideredtobeoriginalinhabitantsofthearea.TheirpatrongoddessMumbadevigavethecityMumbaiitsname.Atdawneachday,thefishmarketfillswithvendorswhohavedesignatedstallsandloyalcustomerswhoalmostalwaysbuyfromthesameseller.Thesearetypicallywomenwholookafterthesaleswhilethemengooutfishing.
ThefreshwaterfishofIndiaarealsoquitefamous.PeopleinKeralaswearbythekarimeen(pearlspot)whichisfoundinthebrackishbackwatersofthestate.Itisconsideredsuchadelicacythatithasbeendeclaredthestate’sofficialfish!
Bengalisgodewy-eyedabouttheoily,bonyfish‘hilsa’or‘ilish’andbuytheminpairstomarkfestiveandauspiciousdays.ThehilsaisactuallyaseafishbutlaysitseggsinBengal’srivers.Theyoungfisharecaughtastheyswimouttoseaandtheseareconsideredthemostdelicious.
FishhasbeeneateninIndiasinceancienttimes.CavepaintingsinBhimbetkaincentralIndia,consideredtobe30,000yearsold,includeimagesoffish,andatothernearbysitesthereisevidenceoffishingwithnetsandstones.TravellerstoIndia,includingtheGreeks,ChineseandFrench,notedthatfishwaseateninprofusion.TheMughalemperorBabur’s(1483–1530AD)historicalrecord,theBaburnama,describesuniquemethodsofcatchingfishpractisedbythelocals:‘Atsomeconvenientplacelowerdowntheriver,inaholebelowafall,theywillhavefixedbeforehandawattleoffinger-thickwillow-withes,makingitfirmbypilingstonesonitssides.Thewatergoesrushinganddashingthroughthewattle,butleavesonitanyfishthatmayhavecomefloatingdown.ThiswayofcatchingfishispractisedinGul-bahar,ParwanandIstalif.’
Crustaceanssuchasprawns,crabsandlobstersarealsopopular,andseveralvarieties,suchasthegianttigerprawnandthespinylobster,arefoundinthewildaswellasfarmed.Indiaexportsvastquantitiesofprawns,bothfrozenand
dried.ManyIndiansfollowtheAyurvedicruleofnotmixingfishwithmilkordairy,
astheseareconsideredincompatiblefoods.Milkisconsidered‘cooling’whereasfishisbelievedtobe‘heating’.Combiningthetwoissaidtohampertheeffectivenessofthegastro-intestinaltract,howeversomeIndianrecipesdoexistthatcombinethesetwofoods,suchasthefishandyogurtBengalicurry,DoiMach.TheAyurvedicconceptof‘sathmya’suggeststhateatingafoodorcombinationoffoodsoveralongtimemakesusimmunetoitsnegativeeffects.
Intherecipesinthischapter,Ihaveusedrawprawnsastheyarealwayssomuchmoredeliciousthanthecookedones.Also,cookedonesneedtobecookedagaininacurrytoabsorbtheflavoursofthespices,whichmakesthemrubbery.Ifyouhavetousecookedprawns,addthematthelastminuteandsimmerforaminuteorso.
Ihavealsosuggestedsubstitutesfortraditionalfishifyoucannotfindthem.Inmyexperience,exceptforafewfrozenfishorshellfish,suchaskingfishorprawns,it’sbesttousefreshlocalfish.ManyfishlosetheirtextureandtastewhenfrozenandIhavebeenespeciallydisappointedwithfrozenpomfretboughtintheUK,whichissuchadelicacyinIndiawhenfresh.
FishMarketsInIndia
WhenmychildrenwerelittleonourvisitstoMumbai,we’dgototheSassoonDockfishmarketinColabaearlyonSundaymornings.Wewouldwearflipflopstonegotiatethewetfloorsofthemarketaswelookedforthebestbargainsandwaitedfortheboatstocomein.
Ataround7am,theboatswouldcomeintothedockandamidstmuchexcitementandshouting,thecatchwouldbeoffloadedintobasketsonshore.Fishmongersandrestaurantswouldquicklybuywhattheywantedandtherestwassoldtobuyerslikeus.SomefishinMumbaiisstillexpensive,especiallythesilver,delicatepomfretandhugetigerprawns.Athome,thekitchenwouldcomealivewiththetoastingofspices,blendingofcoconutcurrymasalaandthesizzleoffriedprawnsthatwouldmakeafineSundaylunch!
Anotherfavouritefishmarketofmine,eventoday,istheoneatGrantRoad,wheremyregularsalesladySandhyagivesmethebestdealsassheknowsIvisitonlyafewtimesayear.Asavvysaleswoman,shehassoldmefishforthepast15years.SheknowswhatIalwaysbuy,willgivemeafewextraplumpprawnsformyloyaltyandcleansmyfishandprawnsforme.Ihaveseenthepriceoffishtrebleinthelastfewyearsandyetthefishmarket,especiallyatweekends,isfull.
ManycitiesandtownsinIndiahavesuchfishmarkets–bustlingbusyplaceswithfreshfish,prawns,crabsandotherseafood.It’satreatIlookforwardtooneverytripImakebacktoMumbai.
HOWTOCHOOSEYOURFISH1Itshouldhaveverylittleodour,ifany.Fishshouldhaveaclean,brinysmell.Anystrongfishyodourwillnotgoawaycompletelyoncooking.ManyIndiansdonotliketheoverpoweringsmelloffishandwillwashitwithtamarindorlemonbeforeusingit,ormarinateitinsaltandturmericbeforecookingit.2Bright,cleareyes.Iftheeyesareglazedandsunken,thefishhasbeenkeptforawhile.Althoughnotunsafetoeat,itwillnottastefresh.3Shinyscales.Freshfishdoesnotlookdullorfaded.4Redgills.Liftupagillandlookforadeepbloodycolourasopposedtoadull
brownhue.5Buywhole,frozen,rawprawnsifyoucan’tgetfresh.Theshellkeepsthemoistureinandrawonesabsorbflavoursbetterthancookedones.
HOWTOTELLIFFISHISCOOKEDIndiansliketheirfishwelldoneanddonotappreciateaslightlytranslucentlook.Generallyfishandprawnsarecookedwhentheyturnopaqueandwillcarryoncookingalittlewhentheyareremovedfromtheheat.
Theeasiestwaytocheckisbycuttingasmallslitintoapieceoffishtocheckifitisopaqueandflaky.Typically,fishisaddedtocurriesasoneofthelastingredientsasitcookssoquickly.Marinadesforfishshouldnotincludelemonifusedovernightoroveranylengthoftimeastheacidcanbegintocookthefish.Addthelemonjustbeforecooking.
KeralaFishMolee
[CREAMYFISHCURRY]
ThisuniquesouthIndianfishcurryisnotafierydish,infactitisquitecreamywiththethickcoconutmilkthatisused.Traditionalfishusedwouldbeseer,kingfish,pomfretorpearlspotbutyoucanusesalmon,halibutorsimilarfirm-fleshedfishifyoucan’tgetoneofthese.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING40minutes
2tablespoonscoconutorvegetableoil1teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseeds1mediumonion,finelydiced
2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste2freshgreenchillies,chopped1teaspoongroundturmeric600gfirm-fleshedfishfillets,suchassalmon,halibutorredmullet300mlcoconutmilk5freshor10driedcurryleaves2tomatoes,chopped2teaspoonslemonjuicesaltboiledrice,toserve
1Heattheoilinamediumsaucepanoverahighheat,addthemustardseedsandwaituntiltheypop.Addtheonionandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft,thenstirintheginger-garlicpasteandthechillies.2Stirintheturmericandplacethefishinthepan.Fryonbothsidesfor3–4minutesoneachsideuntilpartiallycooked.3Pourinthecoconutmilk,thenaddthecurryleavesandthetomatoes.4Seasonwithsaltandcookoveralowheatfor7–8minutes,untilthefishistender.5Removefromtheheat,stirinthelemonjuice,seasontotasteandserveatoncewithrice.
GoenchiKodi
[GOANFISHCURRY]
Thereareseveralversionsofthisclassicdish,dependingonwhichcommunityiscookingitbutallofthemhavebrightredchilliesandasouringredientliketamarind.Thecurryisoftenflavouredwithalocalspicecalledtirphal(avarietyofSzechuanpepper).Ifyoucan’tfindit,leaveitout,orusethesamequantityofSzechuanpepper.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING30minutes
4x180gsteaksofafirm-fleshedwhitefish,suchaspomfretorpollock1teaspoongroundturmeric2tablespoonsvegetableoil1smallonion,finelydiced3tablespoonstamarindpulporshop-boughttamarindpaste3–4tirphal(optional)200mlcoconutmilk
saltboiledrice,toserveForthepurée10blackpeppercorns1teaspooncuminseeds1largeonion,sliced4garliccloves7driedredKashmirichillies,soakedinalittlehotwaterfor10minutes
1Rubthefishfilletswiththeturmericandsalttoseasonandsetasidewhileyoupreparetheremainingingredients.2Puttheingredientsforthepuréeintoablender,includingthewaterthechilliesweresoakingin,alongwithenoughwatertocoverthemandblitztoafinepurée.3Heattheoilinapanoverahighheatandaddthedicedonion.Fryfor6–7minutesuntilsoft,thenpourthecontentsoftheblenderintothepan.Rinseouttheblenderwithalittlewaterandpourthisinaswell.Addthetamarindandtirphal(ifusing)andseasonwithsalt.4Whenthecurrycomestoabubble,reducetheheatandsimmerforacoupleofminutesthenincreasetheheatandslipinthefish,pourinthecoconutmilkandsimmerfor7–8minutesoruntiltender.5Seasontotasteandservehotwithrice.
MASTERCLASS
PATRANIMACCHI–FishcookedinCorianderChutney
ThefirsttimeIhadthisParsidelicacywasataweddinginMumbaiwhenIwasabout8yearsold.HavingbeingbroughtupwithHindurituals,thethoughtofa‘non-vegetarian’weddingfeastwasbothintriguingandexciting.Thetraditionalfishusedispomfret,steamedinbananaleaves,boththeseingredientsbeinglocaltoGujaratandMumbai,wheremanyParsislive.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plus20minutessoakingtimeCOOKING20minutes
YOUWILLNEED:4x150gfirm-fleshedfishfillets,suchaspomfret,codorhake½teaspoonground
turmericForthecorianderchutneyalargehandfuloffreshmintleavesalargehandfuloffreshcorianderleaves2fresh
greenchillies1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste½teaspooncuminseeds3tablespoonslimejuice1teaspooncastersugar6tablespoonsfreshlygratedcoconutordesiccatedcoconut(soakedinalittlewarm
waterfor20minutestosoften)salt4squaresofbananaleavesorfoil
1Blitzthechutneyingredientsinafoodprocessororblenderuntiltheyformafinepaste,addingatinybitofwaterifnecessary.
2Seasoneachfilletoffishwithsaltandrubwiththeturmeric.
3Coateachfilletwithaquarterofthechutneyandwrapthemindividuallyinbananaleaforfoil.Securewithcocktailsticksortiewithapieceofstring
toholdtheparceltogether.Steamthefishfor20minutesinasteamerorbakefor20minutesinanovenpreheatedto200°C/gasmark6.
4Removefromthesteamerorovenandserveimmediately.
MalvaniRus-GolichiAmti
[MAHARASHTRIANFISHCURRY]
Theterm‘rus-golichi’referstococonutmilkandthespicepastethatiscookedwithit.Mackereloranyfirmfishsuchasseabassorswordfishcanbeusedforthisfierycurry.Kokum,asourpurplefruit,isusedfortang–ifyoucan’tgetholdofit,youcanusetamarindpulpinstead.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING30minutes
4x180gsteaksoffirm-fleshedfish,suchasmackerel,seabassorswordfish1teaspoongroundturmeric2tablespoonsvegetableoil6kokum,rinsedandsoakedin2tablespoonswarmwateror4teaspoonstamarindpastesalt
boiledrice,toserveForthecurrypaste8driedredKashmirichillies,soakedinalittlehotwaterfor10minutestosoften3onions,
finelydiced½freshlygratedcoconutor5tablespoonsdesiccatedcoconut(soakedinhotwaterfor20
minutestosoften)1teaspooncorianderseeds3garliccloves,chopped
1Rubthefishwiththeturmericandsalttoseason.2Putthecurrypasteingredients(reservingone-thirdofthedicedonion),includingthesoakingliquidfromthechillies,inablenderwithenoughwatertocoverandblitztoaveryfinepurée.3Heattheoilinasaucepanoverahighheatandaddthereservedonion.Fryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft,thenaddthepastefromtheblender.Rinsetheblenderoutwithalittlewaterandaddthistothepan,thenaddthekokumalongwiththesoakingwater(orthetamarind)andbringtotheboil.Seasonwithsalt.4Slipinthefishandsimmerfor8–10minutesuntildone.Seasontotasteandservehotwithrice.
Bhujane
[SWEETANDSOURFISHCURRY]
ThePatharePrabhusareconsideredtobeoneofMumbai’searliestHindusettlers,havinglivedtheresincethethirteenthcentury.Theyareknownfortheiruniquetraditions,suchascelebratingthefestivalofDiwaliover8daysinsteadof5daysliketherestofIndia,andtheirstylishliving,aswellasboastingaluxurious,deliciouscuisine.UnlikemanypartsofIndiawheremeatandfish,beingexpensive,isjusteatenoccasionally,thePatharePrabhusconsumethemregularly,oftencombinedwithvegetables.WesterntechniquessuchasbakingcametobeapartofthePatharePrabhukitchen,wherefoodssuchas‘pies’withspicesandherbsweremadeasfamilymeals.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING30minutes
4x200gfilletsoffirm-fleshedfish,suchaskingfish,tunaorhake1teaspoongroundturmeric2teaspoonsmincedgarlic4largeonions,finelychopped2freshgreenchillies,finelydicedalargehandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped3tablespoonsvegetableoil2tablespoonstamarindpulporshop-boughttamarindpaste,mixedwith2tablespoons
watersaltboiledrice,toserve
1Rubthefishfilletswithhalfoftheturmeric,themincedgarlicandsalttoseason.2Mixtheonions,chilliesandcorianderinalargebowlandcrushwithyourhandstobruisethemtogether.Themoreyoucrushthismixture,thesmoother
thesaucewillbe.3Heattheoilinaflatfryingpanoverahighheatandaddthefish.Gentlyfryonbothsidesuntilsealedandjustpartiallycooked,thentransfertoaplateandsetaside.4Addtheonionmixturetothepanandfryfor8–9minutes,untiltheonionsareverysoft,thenpourinthetamarindpasteandremainingturmeric.Cookforacoupleofminutes.5Putthefishintothismixtureandcontinuecookingfor8–9minutes,turningthefishafewtimes,untilitistender.Seasontotasteandservehotwithrice.
ChingriMaccherMalaikari
[CREAMYBENGALIPRAWNCURRY]
MyBengalifriendNimasaysthatsomepeoplebelievethatanearlyversionofthisrecipewasbroughtviatheBayofBengalbyMalaysiansailors,whichiswhyit’scalleda‘Malai’(meaningMalay)kari(curry).‘Malai’insomeIndianlanguagestranslatesasmilkcream,whichthisrecipedoesnotcontain.Instead,coconut,whichiscommonlyusedinFarEasterncuisines,isthebaseforthisdeliciousdish.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING25minutes
600grawjumboprawns,shelledanddeveined½teaspoongroundturmeric2tablespoonsmustardorvegetableoil2bayleaves
1smallcinnamonstick1largeonion,finelychopped2.5cmpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedandfinelygrated1
teaspoongroundcoriander1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder3tablespoonsfreshlygratedcoconut,ordesiccatedcoconut(soakedinhotwaterfor20minutestosoften)100mlcoconutmilk
2tablespoonslemonjuicesaltboiledrice,toserve
1Mixtheprawnsandturmerictogether,seasonwithsaltandsetaside.2Heathalftheoilinasaucepanoverahighheat,addtheprawnsandfrythembriefly.Whentheystarttochangecolour,drainonkitchenpaperandsetaside.3Heattheremainingoilinasaucepanoverahighheatandaddthebayleavesandcinnamonstick.Whentheystarttodarken,addtheonionandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft,thenaddthegratedginger.Stirinthegroundspicesandgratedordesiccatedcoconut.Cookforacoupleofminutes,thenpourinthecoconutmilkandlemonjuice.Bringalmosttoboilingpoint.4Addtheprawnsandseasontotaste.Simmerforaminuteorsothenremovefromtheheat.Servehotwithplainrice.
VanjaramMeenVaruval
[SOUTHINDIANFRIEDKINGFISH]
KingfishisthepopularIndiannamefortheIndo-Pacifickingmackerel.Ithasfirmfleshthatholdsitsshapeandisthereforeeatenfriedorinpickles.Youcanuseanyfirm-fleshedfishsuchassalmoninthisrecipe,butavoidflippingitovertoomanytimesasthiscandryouttheflesh.KingfishcanbeboughtfrozeninmanyIndianorSriLankanshopsaroundtheworld.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plus2hoursmarinatingtimeorovernightifpossibleCOOKING20minutes
4x200gsteaksofkingfish,salmon,breamorhakecoconutorvegetableoil,forshallow-fryingsalt
onionringsandwedgesoflime,toserveForthemarinade1teaspoongroundturmeric2teaspoonsmedium-hotredchillipowder2teaspoonsgroundcoriander1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste1teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper2tablespoonstamarindpulporshop-bought
tamarindpaste
1Combinetheingredientsforthemarinadeinabowlandseasonwithsalt.Putthefishinthebowlandrubthemarinadeontoitwithyourfingerstocoatitevenly.Coverandrefrigerateforacoupleofhoursorovernight.2Bringthefishtoroomtemperature.Heatenoughoiltocoverthebaseofafryingpanandshallow-frythefishfor5minutesoneachside.Drainonkitchenpaperthenservewithonionringsandwedgesoflime.
KolmiFry
[CRISPGARLICPRAWNS]
Thisisnotjustafavouriterecipeinmyhomebutalsoatmanyofmyclasses.Simpletomake,stunningtolookatandaperfectblendofsweet,hot,saltyandtangyflavoursinacrispcoating,thesearemadeforSundaylunchinMaharashtrianhomes.
Serves4PREPARATION→5minutes,plus1hourmarinatingtimeorovernightifpossibleCOOKING15minutes
600glargerawprawns,shelledanddeveinedvegetableoil,forshallow-fryingsqueezeoflemonjuice3tablespoonsfinesemolinaorricefloursaltboiledriceandAamti,toserveForthemarinade½teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder½teaspoonginger-garlicpaste
1Combinetheingredientsforthemarinadeinabowl,seasonwithsalt,andmixtheprawnsintoit.Makesureyouseasontheprawnswellastheywilllaterbecoatedwithunseasonedsemolinaorriceflour.Transfertothefridgetomarinatefor1hourorovernightifpossible.2Heatenoughoiltocoverthebottomofalargefryingpan,andsqueezethelemonjuiceintothebowlwiththeprawns.Tosstomix.3Rollafewoftheprawnsinthesemolinaorriceflourandplacegentlyintotheoilwhenitishot.Placetheminaclockwisedirectionsothatyoucanflipthemoverinthesameordertoensureevencooking.Reducetheheatandfrythe
prawnsforacoupleofminutesoneachsideuntildone.4Drainandtransfertokitchenpaper.Repeatuntilalltheprawnsarecooked.ServehotwithriceandAamti.
KhekdaMasala
[CRABSTUFFEDWITHMUSTARDANDCOCONUT]
TheMaharashtriancoastlineoffersavarietyoflargeseacrabsbuttheinlandriversalsohosttheirownsmallerfreshwaterones.Eithercanbeusedforthisrecipe.Itmakesagoodmaincourseservedwithriceanddal.
Serves4PREPARATION→20minutes,plus30minutestocookthecrabifusingfreshCOOKING20minutes
4xlarge(450g)freshorcooked,dressedcrab,or8smallones2tablespoonsvegetableoil½teaspoonblackmustardseeds8freshor12driedcurryleaves3greenchillies,finelychopped2onions,finelydiced1½teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste1teaspoongroundturmeric4tablespoonsoffreshlygratedcoconut,ordesiccatedcoconut(soakedinhotwaterfor20
minutestosoften)asmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,choppedsaltboiledriceanddal,toserve(optional)
1Ifyouareusingfreshcrabs,bringalargesaucepanofwatertotheboilandgentlylowerinthecrabs.Bringbackuptotheboil,coverandsimmerfor30minutes.Removefromtheheatandleavethecrabsinthewatertocool.2Topreparethecrab,placeitonitsbackonaboard,withitseyestowardsyou,andpriseofftheclaws,whichcontainmostofthewhitemeat.Settheclawsaside.Breakoffanddiscardthesixlegs.Insertaknifeunderthelargetriangular
‘purse’betweentheeyesandliftitup.Removeanddiscardit.Inside,youwillseegreywispygills.Removeanddiscardtheseastheyshouldnotbeeaten.Removetheflesh(whitemeatonly)fromthecrabsandshredit.Crackopentheclawsbywrappingtheminateatowelandsmashingthemwithahammer.Peelawaytheclawshellstoextractthemeat,takingcaretodiscardthesharpcentralbladebone.Reservethebodyshells,cleaningoutthebrownmeatfromtheshells,astheyaretobeusedasavesselinStep6,andrepeatwiththeremainingthreecrabs.3Ifyouareusingdressedcrab,scrapeoutthewhitemeatintoabowlandsavetheshells.4Heattheoilinasaucepanoverahighheat,addthemustardseedsandwaituntiltheypop,thenaddthecurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter)andthechillies.Addtheonionsandfryfor7–8minutesuntilverysoft,thenstirintheginger-garlicpasteandsprinkleintheturmeric.Cookforafurtherminuteorso,thenaddtheshreddedcrabmeatandmixwell.5Removethecrabmixturefromtheheat,stirinhalfthecoconutandseasonwithsalt.6Stuffthespicedcrabmeatbackintotheshellsandgarnishwiththeremainingcoconutandthecoriander.Servewarmwithriceanddal,ifyoulike.
RoyallaVepudu
[ANDHRA-STYLEPRAWNFRY]
Thissemi-drydishisfragrantwithcurryleavesandfennelseeds.Runyourknifedownthebacksoftheprawnsafterdeveiningthemtobutterflythemandkeepthemjuicyduringcooking.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING25minutes
2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspoonblackmustardseeds1teaspoonfennelseeds5–6freshor7–8driedcurryleaves2onions,finelydiced1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste1largetomato,chopped1teaspoongroundturmeric600glargerawprawns,shelled,deveinedandbutterfliedalargehandfuloffreshcoriander
leaves,finelychopped,togarnishsaltRotisorboiledrice,toserve
1Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheat,thenaddtheblackmustardseedsand,assoonastheseedsstarttopop,addthefennelseedsandcurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter).Theywillcookwithinseconds.Addtheonionsandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoftandbrown,thentipintheginger-garlicpasteandstirforaminuteorso.2Stirinthechoppedtomatoandturmericandcookfor3–4minutesuntilsoft.Themixtureshouldlookwellblended,almostlikeapaste.3Addtheprawns,seasonwithsaltandmixwell.Coverthepanandcookfor7–8minutes.Seasontotaste,stirinthecorianderandservehotwithrotisorrice.
ShorsheChingriBhapa
[BENGALIPRAWNSINMUSTARDANDPOPPYSEEDSAUCE]
ThisclassicdishistypicalofBengalicookery,wherefishisoftencookedin‘sorshebata’ormustardpaste.Thehitatthebackofthenoseischerishedbutifyoupreferamilderdish,reducetheamountofmustardseeds.Theprawnscanbesubstitutedwithafirm-fleshedfishsuchashakeorbreamtomake‘SorshebataMaach’,whichmeans‘fishinmustardpaste’.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plus30minutessoakingtimeCOOKING40minutes
600glargerawprawns,shelledanddeveined1teaspoongroundturmeric3teaspoonsblackorbrownmustardseeds2teaspoonswhitepoppyseeds1freshgreen
chilli,diced2tablespoonsfreshlygratedcoconutordesiccatedcoconut(soakedinhotwaterfor20
minutestosoften)½teaspooncastersugar100mlcoconutmilk2tablespoonsmustardorvegetableoilsaltboiledrice,toserve
1Placetheprawnsinabowlwiththeturmericandsalttoseason.Whiletheymarinate,soakthemustardandpoppyseedsinenoughwarmwatertocoverfor30minutes.2Putthesoaked,drainedseedsandchilliinasmallblenderorpestleandmortarandblitzorcrushtoafinepaste.3Puttheprawns,spicepaste,gratedordesiccatedcoconut,sugar,coconutmilkandoilintoaheatproofbowlwhichcanbeplacedinasteamer.Seasonwithsalt.Thiscanbedoneinapressurecooker,ifyouhaveone,withoutaddingthewhistle/weightontop.4Oncethesteamhasbuiltupinthesteamer,cookthecurryfor25minutesoruntiltheprawnsaretenderandtheoilisfloatingontop.Leavethecurrytorestfor5minutesbeforeopeningthesteamer.Cookingtimesmayvaryslightly,dependingonthesteameryouuse.Servehotwithrice.
FishRecheado
[FISHSTUFFEDWITHCHILLIANDSPICE]
LikemanyGoandishes,thisonealsohasitsrootsinPortuguesecooking.Theword‘recheado’isvariouslyspeltandmeans‘stuffed’inPortuguese.InGoa,youwouldmostlikelyeatpomfretormackerelrecheado.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plus30minutessoakingtimeCOOKING25minutes
7–8driedredKashmirichillies2.5cmpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedandchopped5garliccloves,chopped
1teaspoonblackpeppercorns1teaspooncuminseeds1tablespooncastersugar3tablespoonstamarindpulporshop-boughttamarindpaste3tablespoonscoconutorcider
vinegar2largefreshmackerel(about400geach),gutted,scaledandcleaned,withdiagonalslitscutalongthebodies2teaspoonsgroundturmeric
1teaspoongarammasalavegetableoil,forshallow-fryingsaltlemonorlimewedgesandfreshonionrings,toserve
1Placethechilliesinabowlwiththeginger,garlic,peppercorns,cuminseeds,sugar,tamarindpulpandvinegar,addingsalttoseason.Addenoughwater,ifrequired,tojustcoverthemixture.Setasidetosoakfor30minutes.2Rubthefishwithhalftheturmericandsalttoseasonandsetaside.3Blitzthemixturemadeinstep1inablendertomakeapurée,thenstirintheremainingturmericandthegarammasala.Thisrecheadomasalashouldbebrightredincolour.Stuffthefishandtheslitsonthebodywiththemasalamix,coatingitevenly.4Heatenoughoiltocoatthebaseofafryingpanoveramediumheatandshallow-frythefishfor7–8minutesoneachsideuntilitiscrispontheoutsideandcookedthrough.Testwhetherthefishisdonebyliftingoneoftheslits,thefleshshouldbewhiteandopaque.Servehotwithwedgesoflemonorlimeand
freshonionrings.
DoiMach
[BENGALIFISHINYOGURT]
AlthoughmanyIndiansbelievetheAyurvedicsuggestionthatdairyandfishmustnotbecombinedasitcanleadtopoordigestion,theBengalishaveprovedthatthisisnotalwaysthecase.Theircuisinehasmanyexamplesofthiscombination,eithercookedtogether,asinthisrecipe,oreateninquicksuccession,asinafishcurryfollowedbyamilkydessert.Full-fatyogurtisbestusedforcookingasitdoesnottendtosplitonheating,whereaslower-fatvarietiesdo.Youcanvarythelevelofheatbyreducingtheamountofchillipowder.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING30minutes
4x200gsteaksoffirm-fleshedfish,suchassalmonorkingfish1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder3garliccloves,chopped2.5cmpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedandchopped1largeonion,diced
2tablespoonsmustardoil2bayleaves3cloves1smallcinnamonstick4greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded½teaspooncuminseeds500gfull-fatyogurt2freshgreenchillies,slitlengthwayssaltboiledrice,toserve
1Rubthefishsteakswithhalftheturmeric,halfthechillipowderandsalttoseason.Refrigeratefor15minuteswhileyoupreparetheremainingingredients.2Putthegarlic,gingerandonioninablenderandblitztoapuréewithalittlewater.3Heattheoilinafryingpanuntilitreachessmokingpoint,totakeawaysomeofthepungency,thenreducetheheatandfrythefishtwoatatimeforabout8minutes,turningthemoveracoupleoftimestosealbothsides,untilalmostdone.Liftthefishoutofthepanwithaslottedspoon,drainonkitchenpaper
andsetaside.4Addthebayleaves,cloves,cinnamonstick,cardamomandcuminseedstothesamefishyoil.Fryforafewsecondsuntiltheysizzle,thenaddtheonionpaste.Fryfor5–6minutesuntilthemixturebeginstostick,thenrinseouttheblenderwithalittlewaterandpourthewaterintothepan.Addtheremainingturmericandchillipowder.Bringtotheboil,reducetheheatandsimmerfor8–10minutesuntilthemixtureisthick.5Seasontheyogurtwithsaltandstiritintothecurryalittleatatime.Addthegreenchillies,thenbringuptoalmostboilingpoint.Slipinthefishandcoverthepan.Cookforafurther4–5minutesoveramediumheatuntilthefishiscookedthrough,thenremovefromtheheat,seasontotasteandservehotwithrice.
SuraPuttu
[SHARKFISHCRUMBLE]
Thisspicyrecipeismadewithsharkor‘sura’inTamilNadubutIhavealsoeatenaBengaliversionthatusesabonylocalfishcalled‘ilish’.Ifyoucannotfindshark,useafirm-fleshedfishsuchastuna,snapper,kingfishorswordfish.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING35minutes
4x200gsharksteaksortuna,snapper,kingfish,swordfishorhake1teaspoongroundturmeric2tablespoonscoconutorvegetableoil2onions,finelydiced2freshgreenchillies,finelydiced6–7freshor10driedcurryleaves2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste1teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper2tablespoonslemonorlimejuicesaltalargehandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,finelychopped,toserveRotisorboiledrice,toserve
1Rubthefishsteakswithhalftheturmericandsalttoseasonthensetasidewhileyoupreparetheremainingingredients.2Heathalftheoilinafryingpanandfrythefishinbatchesfor4–5minutesoneachsideuntilopaque.Coverandletthefishcookinitsownsteamfor6–7minutesuntilcookedthrough.Removefromtheheat,leavetocoolslightlythenshredthefleshwithyourfingers,discardinganybones.3Heattheremainingoilinapanoverahighheatandfrytheonionsfor7–8minutesuntilverysoft.Addthechilliesandcurryleaves(standingbackfromthe
panifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter)andcontinuecookingforaminute,thenstirintheginger-garlicpaste,remainingturmericandpepper,cookforacoupleofminutes,thenaddtheshreddedfish.4Removefromtheheat,stirinthelemonorlimejuiceandcoriander,seasontotasteandservehotwithrotisorrice.
MashyachiAmti
[FISHANDGREENMANGOCURRY]
IgrewupeatingthisfabuloustangycurryfromMaharashtra.Aschildren,wewouldpickoutthesourmangoslicesasatreattobeeatenattheendofthemeal.Itisusuallymadewithpomfret,butifthisisnotavailableyoucanuseafirmwhitefishlikecoley.RawmangoesareavailableinIndiafromFebruarytoJunebutIsometimesseetheminIndianshopsintheUKallyearroundifthey’vebeenflowninfromvariouscountriesaroundtheworld.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING40minutes
4x200gskinlessfilletsoffirm-fleshedfish,suchaspomfret,coley,cod,haddock,bream1teaspoongroundturmeric
1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste2tablespoonsvegetableoil2onions,finelydiced6–7freshor10driedcurryleaves2freshgreenchillies,diced1greenrawmango,peeled
andthicklysliced½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongroundcoriander400mlcoconutmilksaltboiledrice,toserve
1Rubthefishwithhalftheturmeric,halftheginger-garlicpasteandsalttoseason,thensetaside.2Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheat,addtheonionsandfryfor8–10minutesuntilverysoft.Addthecurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter),remainingginger-garlicpasteandchillies.Dropintherawmango.Fryforacoupleofminutesoveramediumheat.3Tipinthegroundspices,includingtheremainingturmeric,andcookfor1minute,thenaddthefishandcookfor2–3minutesoneachsidetoseal.Pourinthecoconutmilkandbringalmosttoboilingpoint.4Reducetheheattomediumandcookfor8–9minutesuntilthefishistender.
Seasontotasteandservehotwithrice.
MaccherJhol
[LIGHTFISHSTEW]
TherearemanyversionsofthisclassicBengaliandOriyalunchtimecurrybutthebestI’vehadwaslateonenightatafriend’srestaurantinLondonwhen,afterservice,theBengalichefmadeapotofJholforthestaff.Bengalisinsistthatrohu,anon-oilyfishofthecarpfamily,isbestforthiscurrybutI’vemadethisjholwithmackerelandit’sequallydelicious.Panchphoronisaspicemix,availableinseedaswellaspowderform,whichcontainsblackmustardseeds,cumin,fennel,nigellaandfenugreek.Ifyoucannotfindit,useequalquantitiesofwhicheveroftheseseedsyoucanfind.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING30minutes
2large(800g)wholemackerel,gutted,cleanedandcutintothicksteaks1teaspoongroundturmeric2tomatoes
2tablespoonsmustardoil1teaspoonpanchphoronspiceseedmix(oramixofequalquantitiesofblackmustardseeds,cumin,fennel,nigellaandfenugreek)1onion,finelydiced
2.5cmpieceoffreshrootginger,peeledandshredded2garliccloves,minced2freshgreenchillies,slitlengthways2mediumpotatoes,peeledandcubed1small
aubergine,cubed1teaspoongroundcuminahandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,finelychopped,togarnishsaltboiledrice,toserve
1Rubthefishwithhalftheturmericandsalttoseason,andsetaside.2Cutthetomatoesinhalfandgratethecutsidesonthecoarsestsideofthegrateroverabowl.Discardtheskin.3Heattheoilinafryingpanuntilitreachessmokingpoint,thenreducetheheatandaddthefishtothepan.Fryfor2–3minutesoneachside,tosealandpartiallycook.Liftthefishoutwithaslottedspoonandsetaside.4Addthepanchphoronseedmixtothesamepan.Whenitcrackles,addthe
onionandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft,thentipintheginger,garlicandchilliesandfryfor2–3minutesuntilgolden.5Addthepotatoesandfrytoseal,thenstirintheaubergine.Sprinkleintheremainingturmericandthegroundcumin.Seasonwithsaltandfryfor6–7minutesuntilthepotatoeslookhalfdone.Addthegratedtomatoes,cookforafewminutestoblend,thenpourin300mlwaterandbringtotheboil.6Slipinthefishandcookforafurther8–10minutesuntilthevegetablesaretender.Addasplashofwaterifthecurrydriesup,asitismeanttobequitethinandsoupy.Seasontotaste,stirinthecorianderleavesandservehotwithrice.
KolmiNoPatio
[PRAWNSINHOTTAMARINDSAUCE]
Thered,cloyinglysweetdishthatisknownasa‘patia’inmanyIndianrestaurantsaroundtheworldisnowherenearthebeautifullybalancedsweetandsour‘patio’onewilleatinaParsihome.AsateenagergrowingupinMumbai,IwasluckytobeinvitedbymyParsifriendstoeat‘patio’servedwithrice,toppedwithgoldenfriedonions.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING40minutes
600glargerawprawns,shelledanddeveined1teaspoongroundturmeric2tablespoonsvegetableoil1largeonion,finelydiced2freshgreenchillies,slitlengthways7–8freshor10driedcurryleaves1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste2tomatoes,diced(seedsandall)3tablespoonstamarindpulporshop-boughttamarindpaste2tablespoonsgratedjaggery
orsoftbrownsugar½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongroundcoriander
1teaspoongroundcuminasmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnishsaltParsi-styleBrownRice,toserve
1Tosstheprawnsinhalftheturmericandsalttoseason.2Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheat,addtheonionandfryfor7–8minutesuntilverysoftandgolden.3Tipinthechilliesandcurryleaves,thenstirintheginger-garlicpasteandfryforacoupleofminutestoreleasealltheflavours.4Addthedicedtomatoeswithapinchofsaltandcookfor5–6minutesuntilathickpasteisformed.Mixinthetamarindandjaggeryorsugar.Sprinkleinallthegroundspices,includingtheremainingturmeric.Cookoveramediumheatforafewminutesuntileverythingiswellblended,thenaddasplashofwaterand
bringtotheboil.Thiswillhelptheoiltoseparateandthespicestocook.5Addtheprawnsandcookfor7–8minutes,untiltheyareopaque.Seasontotaste,sprinklewiththecoriander,andservehotwithParsi-stylebrownrice.
KanavaThoran
[SPICYSQUIDWITHCOCONUT]
ThisdishfromKeralacanbeashotormildasyouwanttomakeit.Forahotterdish,increasethegreenchilliestofourandthepeppertotwoteaspoons.Indianseafoodrecipesaretypicallyhotandsour,temperedwiththesweetnessofonions,coconutorthefishitself.Youcanbuyready-cleanedsquidforthisrecipe.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING40minutes
2tablespoonscoconutorvegetableoil2mediumonions,thinlysliced1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste2freshgreenchillies,slitlengthways600gfreshsquid,cutinto1cm-thickrings10freshor15
driedcurryleaves1teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper1
teaspoongroundcoriander3tablespoonstamarindpulporshop-boughttamarindpaste3tablespoonsfreshlygrated
coconut(preferable)ordesiccatedcoconut(soakedinhotwaterfor20minutestosoften)salt
boiledrice,toserve
1Heattheoilinaheavy-basedfryingpanoverahighheatthenaddtheonions.Fryfor6–7minutesuntiltranslucent,stirringfromtimetotime,thenaddtheginger-garlicpasteandchillies.Fryforacoupleofminutes.2Tipinthesquidringsandfryforafewminutes,thenmixinthecurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter),groundspicesandseasonwithsalt.Coverthepanandcookfor5minutes.Thejuicesfromthesquidwillbereleasedbynow.3Stirinthetamarindandcoconut,pourin100mlwaterandbringtotheboil.Coverandsimmerfor5minutes,thenremovethelidandcookoverahighheattodryupanyliquid.Seasontotasteandservehotwithrice.
KonkaniChimboriMasala
[CRABCURRYWITHROASTEDCOCONUT]
Thisismygrandmother’srecipeanditremindsmeoflazySundaylunchesinMumbai.Shesaidthattheoilcarriedtheflavoursandthereforeyouneedtoputinabitmorethanyou’dexpect.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING40minutes
4freshcrabs(about200geach)4tablespoonsvegetableoil10blackpeppercorns6cloves2teaspoonscorianderseeds1largeonion,thinlysliced6tablespoonsfreshlygratedcoconut
ordesiccatedcoconut(soakedinhotwaterfor20minutestosoften)ahandfuloffreshcorianderleaves3freshgreenchillies
2.5cmpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedandchopped4garliccloves,chopped1teaspoongroundturmeric2tablespoonstamarindpulporshop-boughttamarindpaste
saltboiledrice,toserve
1Cleanthecrabs.Breakoffthelegsandputtheminablenderwithenoughwatertojustcoverthem.Blitzforacoupleofminutes,thenstrainthroughasieveintoabowlanddiscardthecontentsofthesieve.Reservetheliquidtouseasstockinthecurry.2Heathalfoftheoilinadeep,heavy-basedfryingpanandaddthepeppercorns,clovesandcorianderseeds.Stirfor1minute,thenaddtheonionandfryfor8–10minutesuntilbrown.(Thecolourofthecurrydependsonthisbrowning.)Addthecoconutandstir-fryfor4–5minutesuntilbrown,takingcarenottoletthemixtureburn.Coolthemixtureslightlythentransferittoablender,addenoughwatertocoverthemixtureandblitztoapurée.Tipintoabowl.Thisisthebrownmasala.3Combinethecorianderleaves,chillies,gingerandgarlicandblitztoapuréealongwithalittlewatertoturntheblades.Thisisthegreenmasala.4Heattheremainingoilinalargeheavy-basedpanoverahighheatandaddthe
crabs.Fryfor4–5minutesuntiltheyturnred.Addtheturmericandseasonwithsalt.5Addthegreenmasalaandfryfor5minutes.PourinthebrownmasalaandthestockfromStep1andbringtotheboil,thenstirinthetamarindpulp.Addasplashofwaterifthecurryistoothick,reducetheheatandsimmerforabout10minutesoruntilthecrabsarecookedandthecurryisfragrant.Removefromtheheat,seasontotasteandservehotwithrice.
MacchiMasala
[NORTHINDIANFISHCURRY]
Inthenorth,manycurrieshavewarmingspicessuchascardamomandcloveswhereastamarindandcoconutaremorepopularinthesouth.Thesouthalsousesmorechilliandmustardseedsthanthenorthtomakedinersperspireandhelpthemcooldowninthescorchingsouthernheat.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING30minutes
2tablespoonsvegetableoil1onion,finelychopped1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste1teaspoontomatopurée2tomatoes,chopped2bayleaves3cloves3greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded1teaspoongroundcoriander1
teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder½teaspooncrushedblackpeppercorns600gfirm-fleshedskinlessfishfilletssuchassalmon,breamorhake2teaspoonslemonjuice
asmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,toservesaltboiledrice,toserve
1Heathalftheoilinasaucepanoveramediumheat,addtheonionandfryfor7–8minutesuntilverysoft.Addtheginger-garlicpastethenthetomatopuréeandtomatoes.Fryfor5minutesuntilmushy,thentransferthemixturetoablenderwithenoughwatertocoverandblitztoafinepurée.2Heattheremainingoilinafryingpanoverahighheatandaddthebayleaves,clovesandcardamomseeds.Whentheysizzle,addthegroundspicesandasplashofwater.Whenthewaterevaporates,thespiceswillhaveturneddarkandtheoilwillhaveseparated.3Pourinthepuréeandbringtotheboil.Rinseouttheblenderwithalittlewaterandaddthistothepan.Seasonwithsaltandaddthefish.Bringtotheboil,reducetheheatandsimmerfor7–8minutesuntilthefishistender.
4Seasontotaste,drizzleoverthelemonjuice,sprinklewiththecorianderandservehotwithrice.
MasorTenga
[TANGYFISHCURRY]
ThissignaturefishcurryfromAssamissimpleandflavourful.Itistraditionallymadewithaspiny,white-fleshedriverfishcalled‘rohu’or‘ruimaach’,whichisavailablefrozeninsomeBangladeshifoodshopsaroundtheworld.Ifyoucan’tgetholdofitthenyoucanusecoleyorbreaminstead.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING30minutes
4steaksoffirm-fleshedfish,suchasrohu,coleyorbream1teaspoongroundturmeric4largetomatoes2tablespoonsmustardoil½teaspoonfenugreekseeds2freshgreenchillies,slitlengthways2tablespoonslemonjuiceahandfulofchoppedfreshcorianderleaves,togarnishsaltboiledrice,toserve
1Rubthefishwithhalftheturmericandsalttoseason,thensetasidewhileyoupreparetheremainingingredients.2Cuteachtomatoinhalfandgratethecutsidesonthecoarsestsideofagrateroverabowl.Discardtheskin.3Heatthemustardoilinaheavy-basedfryingpantosmokingpoint,thenreducetheheatandfrythefishfor2–3minutesonbothsidestosealandpartiallycook.Removewithaslottedspoonandsetasidetodrainonkitchenpaper.4Addthefenugreekseedstothesameoil.Whentheychangecolour,addthechilliesandthegratedtomatoes.
5Mixintheremainingturmericandcookfor5minutesuntilthecurrythickensandthetomatoesarecooked.Pourin200mlwaterandthelemonjuiceandseasonwithsalt.6Whenthecurrybubbles,slipthefishinandcookfor8–10minutes(dependingonwhichfishyouareusing)overamediumheatuntilthefishistender.Seasontotasteandservehot,sprinkledwithcorianderleavesandwithricealongside.
MuttaiPoriyalAndeKiBhurjiKodiGudduBeerakayaKuraBaidaMasalaTamaterKaKutDimerJholBaideKaKheemaMuttaiKuzhumbuBaidaRashidaBheedaParEedaNargisiKoftaCurry
TODAYININDIAEGGSARESEENEVERYWHERE:INCURRIES,SCRAMBLEDWITHSPICESORSIMPLYBOILED,SLICEDANDEATENWITHSALTANDCHILLI.
Eggs,variouslycalled‘anda’,‘baida’,‘muttai’,‘deem’or‘guddu’inIndia,areconsideredtobenon-vegetarianandarethereforenoteatenbysomepeople,suchastheJainsorvegetarianHindus,forreligiousreasons.Classicvegetarianrecipeswouldneverevenuseeggsasbindingagents,asitwouldputsomepeopleoffeatingthesefoods.ThereisabigmarketforegglesscakesinIndia!
EggshavebeeneateninIndiaformanycenturies.TherearereferencestotheiruseintextssuchastheAin-i-Akbari(1590AD),thememoirsoftheMughalemperorAkbar,wherearecipefor‘Mussaman’containsfowl,mincedmeat,ghee,eggsandspices.
TheCharakaSamhita(c.900–600BCE),anancienttextaboutAyurveda,saysinitsFoodsandDrinkschapter,‘eggsofswans,chakora,hens,peacocksandsparrowsareusefulindiminishedsemen,cough,heartdiseaseandinjuries.Theyaresweet,notcausingburningsensationandimmediatelystrength-promoting.’Eggsarestillconsideredenergy-givingandacheapsourceofprotein.
Today,eggsareseeneverywhere:incurries,scrambledwithspicesorsimplyboiled,slicedandeatenwithsaltandchilli.IwastoldsometimeagothatwhendrivingthroughIndiantownsandvillages,ifyouseeastreetstallsellingboiledeggswithspices,thereiseverypossibilitythatthereisabarservinglocalliquorcloseby!Thesearebasicestablishmentsthatservecheapalcoholandquicksnacksandareoftenhiddenawayfrommainstreets.Insomerestaurantstheterm‘pureveg’isused–thismeansthattherearenoalcoholoreggsonthepremises.
InIndia,eggsaremostcommonlyassociatedwithIranicafésandtheParsicommunity.IranicafésweresetupbymigrantsfromIranwhocametoBombayinthenineteenthcenturyforeconomicreasons,muchlaterthantheParsiswhofledreligiouspersecutioninIran.Thecafés,withtheirdistinctivedécor,wereopenedonstreetcorners,asHindushopkeepersbelievedthemtobeinauspicious.TheancientHindusystemofVastuShastra(possiblydevelopedaround3000BCE)describesthe‘scienceofarchitecture’andsuggestshowtobuildlivingorworkingspacesinkeepingwithnature.Theshapeofaplotofland
buildlivingorworkingspacesinkeepingwithnature.Theshapeofaplotoflandwascrucialtothesuccessoftheowner–asquareplotwasconsideredlucky,whereasatriangularone,asonastreetcorner,wouldbringobstructionsinone’sbusinessandlife.Theseprinciplesarestillfollowedbytraditionaliststoday.However,theIraniansheldnosuchviewsandfeltthattheselocationswouldbegoodforbusinessascustomersfromtwostreetscouldseethesecafésandstarttofrequentthem.Theywereopen-fronted,welcomingplaces,suitedtothecommonman,typicallyfurnishedwithbentwoodchairs(supposedlytoouncomfortabletoallowonetolingeroverone’schai)andmarble-toppedwoodentables.Theownersatbehindacounterneartheentranceandatthebackwasthekitchenthatcreatedamenuthathaslastedtothisday,andisthemainstayofmanystudents’dietsinthecity.Oneofthemostpopularitemsonthemenustillremainstheomeletteor‘amlate’.Madebyaddingfinelydicedonionsandchilliestoeggs,it’soily,frillyandintenseandservedwithcrustybreadcalled‘pav’.Althoughnotagourmetdishbyanychef’sstandards,itisadelicacyetchedintothememoryofalmosteveryonewhospendstheirteenageyearsinMumbai.
TheParsisuseeggsinweddingritualsasfoodaswellasritualobjects.Aneggiswavedoverthegroomandsmashedtothefloor,signifyingthedestructionofevilforcesthatmaysurroundhim.Theircuisinehasmanydishesbasedoneggsor‘eedu’.OntheParsiNewYearday(‘Navroze’),IndianParsisserveatraditionalsweetcalled‘sev’,whichisvermicellicookedingheewithlotsofnutsandservedwithaboiledegg.MyParsifriendssaythateveryhomehas‘kanda,papetaandeedu’–onion,potatoandeggs–tocookupintoaquicktastymealforunexpectedguests.
CHOOSINGEGGSMostIndianrecipesusechickeneggsbutduckandquaileggsarebotheateninstatessuchasKerala,TamilNaduandMaharashtra.
Barneggscomefromhensthatarehousedinbuildingswithacoupleofstoreys,withenoughspacetomovearoundfreely.Free-rangeeggsarefromhensthatareletoutintotheopenduringdaylighthours.Organiceggsareproducedbyhensraisedonanorganicdietandallowedtoroamonorganicallyfarmedland.Iuseanyofthesebutdon’ttendtobuyeggsfromcagedhensforethicalreasons.InIndia,somepeopleinvillagesorsmalltownshipskeepchickensforeggsaswellasfortheirmeat.Often,insmallvillages,strictlyvegetariancommunitiessuchassomeHindus,liveadistanceawayfromnon-vegetariancommunities.
Oncebought,makesuretouseeggsbeforetheir‘bestbefore’date.Usethesemethodstotestiftheyarefresh:-Immersetheeggintoabowlofcoldwater.Iftheeggsinkstothebottomofthebowlandliesonitsside,itisveryfresh.Ifitsinksbutstandsononeend,itisstillfreshenoughtoeat.Iftheeggfloats,itisnotagoodideatoeatit.
-Whenyoucrackopenanegg,afirm,brightyolkindicatesfreshnesswhereasaflabbypaleonemeanstheeggisstale.
MuttaiPoriyal
[SOUTHINDIANSCRAMBLEDEGGS]
Thismakesaquickandeasydinnerservedwithrotiortoast.Indianrecipesoftenhavea‘tempering’,wherespices,herbsorlentilsarefriedinhotoilandpouredoverafinisheddishorstartthecookingofadish.Theadditionoflentilstothetemperingheregivestexturetothisdish.Itiseatenforbreakfast,withamainmealorasasnackbetweenmealsinTamilNadu.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING15minutes
4largefree-rangeeggs½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder½teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoonfreshly
groundblackpepper1tablespoonvegetableoil1teaspoonbrownorblackmustardseeds1teaspoonsplit,skinlessblacklentils(uraddal),washedanddrained1onion,finelydiced
1freshgreenchilli,diced1tomato,dicedsaltRotisortoast,toserve
1Cracktheeggsintoamixingbowlandaddthechillipowderandgroundturmeric.Addthepepper,seasonwithsaltandbeatuntilfluffy.2Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheystarttopop,stirintheuraddal.Whenthedalbeginstoturnbrown,addtheonionandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft.Stirinthedicedchilliandtomatoandcookfor3–4minutesuntilverysoft.3Pourintheeggsandquicklyscramblethemwithaladle.Youcancookthemassoftorhardasyoulike,butmakesurethattheysetsothatthespicesgetcooked.Servehotwithrotisortoast.
AndeKiBhurji
[SPICYSCRAMBLEDEGGS]
ThisdishhasvariousnamesinIndia.TheParsiscallit‘akoori’,someMuslimcommunitiescallit‘khagina’,andotherscallit‘eggbhurji’.ItisapopularbreakfastorstreetfoodeatenwithWestern-stylebreadorIndianonessuchasrotis,parathasorpooris.Indiansgenerallyprefertheirfoodwelldoneastheyarenotfondofaslimytexture–scrambledeggswillalwaysbewellcookedandevenabithard.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING10minutes
6largefree-rangeeggs1tablespoonvegetableoil1largeonion,finelychopped1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste1–2freshgreenchillies,finelychopped(dependingonhowhotyouwantit)2tomatoes,
finelychoppedahandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,finelychoppedsaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
bread,toserve
1Seasontheeggswithsaltandpepperandbeatuntilfluffy.2Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheat,addtheonionandfryfor5–6minutesuntilsoft,thenaddtheginger-garlicpaste,chilliesandtomatoes.Cookforafewminutesuntilwellblended.3Addthebeateneggsandcorianderandcookoveralow–mediumheat,stirringthemastheycook,forabout3minutes.Indiancooksprefertheireggsverywelldonebutyoucanstopcookingthemassoonasyouachievethetextureyouprefer.Seasontotasteandserveatoncewithbread.
MASTERCLASS
TAMOTAPAREEDU–BakedEggswithTomato
MyfriendProchysaysthatwhenthenon-vegetarianParsisfledfromPersiatothewestcoastofGujarat,theyfoundalandwheremeatwasnotwidelyavailableandchickenswererearedonlyforhouseholdkitchens.Eggswereplentifulsotheycombinedvegetableswitheggstomakealargenumberofnewdishessuchasthis.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING45minutes
YOUWILLNEED:8ripe,redtomatoes,washedandscoredononeendwithan‘X’2tablespoonsvegetableoil2onions,finelydiced1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste1teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshcorianderleaves1tablespoonmaltvinegar1teaspooncastersugar4largefree-rangeeggssaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperRotisorboiledrice,toserve
1Preheattheovento200°C/gasmark6.
2Bringasaucepanofwatertotheboilandblanchthetomatoesforacoupleofminutesuntiltheskinbeginstopeelaway,thenplungethetomatoesintocoldwaterandpeelofftheskins.Roughlychoptheflesh,retainingtheseeds.
3Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheat,addtheonionsandfryfor7–
8minutesuntilverysoft.Stirintheginger-garlicpasteandcookforacoupleofminutes,thenaddtheturmeric,chillipowderandcorianderleaves.Cookfor1minute,addthechoppedtomatoesandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Cookfor5–6minutesuntilthickandwellblended.
4Addthevinegarandsugarandcontinuecookinguntilthedishisalmostdry.Transfertoanovenproofflandishandmakefourevenlyspaceddipsinthemixturewiththebackofaladle.Breakaneggintoeachhollowandbakeintheovenfor20minutesoruntiltheeggshaveset.Removefromtheovenandservehotwithrotisorrice.
KodiGudduBeerakayaKura
[EGGANDRIDGEGOURDCURRY]
ThiscurryfromAndhraPradeshmakescleveruseofeggsandvegetables–ridgegourdor‘beerakaya’–inonerecipe.Youcanuseawateryvegetablesuchascourgetteifyoucannotfindridgegourd.Theridgesareslicedoffandcanbemadeintoadeliciouschutneytoserveontheside.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING25minutes
2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseeds½teaspooncuminseeds8–10freshor10driedcurryleaves1teaspoonwhiteuraddal,washedanddrained1large
onion,finelydiced3garliccloves,finelydiced2freshgreenchillies,slitlengthways2ridgegourdorcourgettes,
peeledandcutinto3cmpieces1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongarammasala4largefree-rangeeggs,hard-boiledandshelled100mlfull-fatmilksaltboiledriceorRotis,toserve
1Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheybegintopop,addthecuminseeds,curryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter)anduraddal.2Whentheybegintodarken,tipintheonionandfryfor7–8minutesuntilverysoft.Stirinthegarlicandchillies.3Addtheridgegourdorcourgettes,turmericandgarammasala.Seasonwithsalt.Thegourdorcourgettewillreleaseitsjuicesasthecurrycomestotheboil.Reducetheheat,coverandsimmerfor10–12minutes,untilthegourdorcourgetteistender.4Makeshallowslitsalongthesidesoftheeggsandstirthemintothecurry.Pourinthemilk,bringtotheboil,seasontotasteandservehotwithriceorrotis.
BaidaMasala
[SIMPLEINDIANEGGCURRY]
ThisisoftenasimpleSundaynightdinnerinmyhome.Itisrealcomfortfoodwhenthefamilyisstillabitfullfromaheavylunch!Weeatitwithrotisbutitalsogoeswellwithriceorotherbreads.I’malwayssurprisedthatIndianrestaurantsdon’tservethisverypopularfamily-styledish–itjustgoestoshowhowdifferenthomeandrestaurantcookingstylesare!
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING25minutes
2tablespoonsvegetableoil½teaspooncuminseeds2largeonions,finelydiced1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste2freshriperedtomatoes,chopped,or½x400gcanofchoppedtomatoes1tablespoons
tomatopurée½teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongarammasala4largefree-rangeeggs,hard-boiled,shelledandhalvedasmallhandfuloffreshcoriander
leaves,chopped,togarnishsaltRotis,boiledriceorotherbread,toserve
1Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheatandaddthecuminseeds.Whentheystarttodarken,tipintheonionsandfryfor8–10minutesuntilverysoft.2Stirintheginger-garlicpaste,tomatoesandtomatopurée.Cookforacoupleofminutesthenaddthegroundspices.Mixwellandpourinacoupleoftablespoonsofwater(notneededifusingtinnedtomatoes).Bringtotheboilthenreducetheheatandsimmerfor4–5minutesuntiltheoilseparates.3Gentlyplacethehalvedeggsinthecurry.Heatthrough,seasontotaste,sprinklewiththecorianderandservehotwithrotis,riceorbread.
TamaterKaKut
[EGGSINTOMATOCURRY]
ThisfamousHyderabadidishisalsoknownas‘Andaykasalan’andisarichtomatoandeggcurryflavouredwithspices.Itiseatenwithrice,biryaniorbread.Iaddtomatopuréealongwithblanchedfreshtomatoesforadeepercolourandflavour,asinIndiathetomatoeswouldbesun-ripenedandmoreintenseinflavour.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING30minutes
2tablespoonsgramflour6largeripe,redtomatoes,washedandscoredononeendwithan‘X’,or1x400gcanof
choppedtomatoes2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspooncuminseeds7–8freshor10driedcurryleaves2garliccloves,minced1tablespoontomatopurée1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongroundcoriander½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder4largefree-rangeeggs,hard-boiled,shelledandslitalongthesides1tablespoonchoppedfreshcorianderleaves,togarnishsaltboiledrice,biryaniorbread,toserve
1Heatafryingpanoveramediumheat,addthegramflourandtoastitfor8–10minutesuntilitchangescolour,stirringtopreventitfromscorching.2Meanwhile,bringasaucepanofwatertotheboilandblanchthescoredtomatoesforacoupleofminutesuntiltheskinbeginstopeelaway.Plungethetomatoesintocoldwaterandpeelofftheskins.Chopthetomatoesroughly,
discardingtheseeds,thenputthem(orthecannedtomatoes,ifusinginsteadoffresh)inablenderalongwiththetoastedgramflourandenoughwatertojustcoverthemixture.Blitztoafinepurée.3Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheatandaddthecuminseeds.Whentheystarttodarkenaddthecurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter).Tipinthegarlicandfryfor30secondsuntilgolden.4Addthetomatopuréeandfryforafewseconds,thenpourinthepuréefromtheblender.Rinseouttheblenderwithacoupleoftablespoonsofwaterandaddthistothecurry.5Sprinkleinthegroundspicesandseasonwithsalt.Bringtotheboil,stirringfrequentlytopreventtheflourinthesaucefromstickingtothebottomofthepan,andcookfor5–6minutes.6Whenthesaucehasthickened,tastethecurry.Youshouldn’tbeabletotasterawflour,andthecurryshouldhaveanuttyaroma.Addtheeggsandcontinuecookingforacoupleofminutes,thenremovefromtheheat,seasontotaste,sprinklewiththecorianderandservehotwithrice,biryaniorbread.
DimerJhol
[LIGHTBENGALIEGGCURRY]
Therearesomanyversionsofthiscurry–thinneronesarecalled‘jhol’andtheslightlythickeronesare‘dalna’.Bengalis,unlikemanyotherIndiancooks,fryhard-boiledeggswithalittleturmericandsaltbeforeaddingthemtoacurry.Thisgivesthemagoldenskinwhichisslightlychewy.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING45minutes
4largefree-rangeeggs,hard-boiled,shelledandeachslit4timesdownthesides2potatoes,peeledandquartered1teaspoongroundturmeric2tablespoonsmustardorvegetableoil2freshgreenchillies,slitlengthways2largeripetomatoes,halvedandgratedonthecutsides(discardtheskins)1teaspoongratedfreshrootgingerasmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnishsaltboiledrice,toserve
1Rubtheeggsandpotatoeswithhalftheturmericandsalttoseason.2Ifusingmustardoil,heatittosmokingpointinafryingpanorheatthevegetableoil.Reducetheheat,addthepotatoesandfryfor7–8minutesuntiltheystarttoturngolden,thendrainandsetasideonaplatelinedwithkitchenpaper.3Frytheeggsinthesamepanfor4–5minutesuntiltheycrispupslightly.Drainonkitchenpaperandsetaside.4Frythechilliesintheoilfor30secondsuntiltheychangecolour,thenaddthegratedtomatoesandginger.Seasonwithsalt,bringtotheboiloverahighheat,thenaddtheremainingturmeric.Whenthemixturehasalmostdriedup,pourin100mlwaterandreturntotheboil.Theoilwillbegintoseparate.
5Returnthepotatoestothepanandcookfor20–25minutesuntildone.Testthisbyinsertingaskewerorsmallknifeintothethickestpartofapotato.Keepaddingwaterasnecessaryuntilthecurryhasapouringconsistency.6Addtheeggstothepan,heatthrough,seasontotasteandsprinklewiththecoriander.Servewithrice.
BaideKaKheema
[SPICEDMINCEDEGGS]
Thisstreetfoodsnackcanbeeatenasamainmealwithsomecrustybread.Youcanmakethecurryasthinorthickasyouwant–athinoneisdelicioustodunkyourbreadinto!Athickonecanberolledintoarotiwithsomesalad.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING25minutes
1tablespoonvegetableoil1bayleaf¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper2onions,finelydiced1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste1freshgreenchilli,diced1tablespoontomatopurée1tomato,diced½teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongroundcoriander4largefree-rangeeggs,hard-
boiledandshelledasmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnishsaltcrustybreadorRotis,toserve
1Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheatandaddthebayleafandpepper.Whentheystarttosizzle,addtheonions.Cookfor7–8minutesuntilverysoft,addingapinchofsalttohastentheprocess.Tipintheginger-garlicpasteandchilliandcookfor1minute,thenstirinthetomatopuréeanddicedtomatoandcookfor2–3minutesuntilmushy.2Sprinkleinthegroundspicesandcookforacoupleofminutes,addingacoupleoftablespoonsofwatertopreventthemixturefromstickingtothebottomofthepan.Ifyouwantathinnercurry,addmorewater.3Whilethecurryissimmering,gratethehard-boiledeggs,chopthemveryfinelyormashthemwithapotatomasher.Addtheeggstothepanandseasonwithsalt.4Sprinklewiththefreshcorianderandservehotwithbreadorrotis.
MuttaiKuzhumbu
[EGGDROPCURRY]
ThissouthIndianrecipeusessplitgramlentils(chanadal)forthickening.Youcanaddvegetablessuchascourgettes,carrotsorpeasjustafteraddingthetamarindandcookthemfor8–10minutesuntiltendertomakethedishmoresubstantial.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plus30minutessoakingtimeCOOKING40minutes
2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspoonfennelseeds2driedredchillies,brokeninhalfandseedsshakenout1onion,sliced1tomato,chopped1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste1teaspoonsplitgramlentils(chanadal),washedandsoakedinhotwaterfor30minutes4
tablespoonsfreshlygratedcoconut1teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseeds7–8freshor10driedcurryleaves1tablespoontamarindpulporshop-boughttamarindpaste1teaspoongroundturmeric4largefree-rangeeggsasmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnishsaltandfreshlygroundblack
pepperboiledrice,toserve
1Heathalftheoilinafryingpanoverahighheat,addthefennelseedsandredchilliesandfryfor30–40seconds.Whentheystarttochangecolour,addtheonionandcookfor7–8minutes.Whentheonionbecomestranslucent,addthetomatoandginger-garlicpaste.2Drainthechanadalandaddittothepan.Cookfor7–8minutesuntilthetomatoeshavecompletelydisintegratedandthelentilshavesoftened.3Tipthemixtureintoablenderalongwiththecoconutandenoughwatertocoverthemixture,andblitztoasmoothpurée.4Heattheremainingoilinafryingpanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheybegintopop,addthecurryleaves(takingcareiftheyarefresh
astheywillsplutter)andtamarindpulp.Sprinkleintheturmericandacoupleoftablespoonsofwater.Cookoverahighheatfor2–3minutesuntiltheoilseparates.5Pourinthepuréefromtheblenderthenrinseouttheblenderwithalittlewaterandpourthisinaswell.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.6Gentlybreaktheeggsintothecurryoneatatimeandletthempoach.Donotstir.Coverthepanandcookfor3–4minutes.Assoonastheeggshaveset,removefromtheheat.Sprinklewiththecorianderandservehotwithrice.
BaidaRashida
[POTATOANDEGGCURRY]
ThisisadishwehadasaspecialtreatfromanearbyrestaurantwhenIwasgrowingupinBombay,whengoingtoarestaurantorgettingatakeawaywasnotascommonasitistoday.Thisismyversionofit,madeherewithpotatoes,ratherthanchicken,whichiswhattherestauranthadontheirmenu.Ilovethetextureoffluffypotatoescombinedwiththechewybitsofegg.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING40minutes
2potatoes,peeledandquartered1teaspoongroundturmeric2tablespoonsvegetableoil2.5cmpieceofcinnamonstick2onions,finelydiced2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste2tablespoonstomatopurée1teaspoongroundcoriander½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongarammasala2tablespoonssinglecream3largefree-rangeeggs,hard-boiled,shelledandfinelydicedafewsprigsoffreshcoriander
leaves,chopped,togarnishsaltParathas,RotisorNaans,toserve
1Rubthepotatoeswithhalftheturmericandsalttoseason.2Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheat,addthecinnamonstickandfryuntilitdarkens,thenaddtheonionsandfryfor7–8minutesuntilverysoft.Stirintheginger-garlicpaste,addthepotatoesandfryforafewminutesuntilgolden,reducingtheheattomediumiftheysticktothebottomofthepan.3Stirinthetomatopuréeandgroundspices,seasonwithsalt,pourin200mlwaterandbringtotheboil.Cover,reducetheheatandsimmerfor15–20minutesuntilthepotatoesarecooked,addingalittlewaterifthecurrybecomes
toodry.4Foldinthecreamandboiledeggsandseasontotaste.Bringtotheboil,sprinklewiththecorianderandservehotwithparathas,rotisornaans.
BheedaParEeda
[OKRAWITHEGGS]
ThisisanotherclassicParsidishthatcombinesvegetableswitheggs.Indiansdon’tliketheirokraslimyandthewaytoavoidthisistomakesurethattheokraiscompletelydrybeforecookingit.Somecooksbreaktheeggsovertheokra,leavingtheyolkswhole,someseparatetheyolksandwhites,beatthewhites,thenaddthemwiththeyolks,andothersmakethisversion,thatresemblesafrittata.Ilikethisversionasitmakesquiteaheartymeal,especiallywhenservedwithacoupleofbreadrolls.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING40minutes
300gokra,washedanddriedovernightsotheyarecompletelydry1tablespoonvegetableoil
1onion,finelydiced1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste½teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongroundcoriander4largefree-rangeeggs,beatenandseasonedwithsaltandpeppersaltandfreshlyground
blackpepperbreadrolls,toserve(optional)
1Topandtailtheokrathencuttheminto2.5cmpieces.2Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheat,addtheonionandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft.Addtheginger-garlicpasteandcookforafurtherminute,thenstirintheokra,seasonwithsaltandpepperandcookoveramediumheatfor8–10minutesuntilitstartstosoftenandchangecolour.Lookforaslightgivewhenyoupressapieceofokrawiththebackofaladle.3Sprinkleinthegroundspices,mixgentlyandcookforacoupleofminutesoveramediumheat.
4Transfertheokratoacleanfryingpanandpouroverthebeateneggs.Cookoveramediumheat,withoutstirring,untiltheeggsareset.Slicethefrittataandservehotwithbreadrolls,ifyoulike.
NargisiKoftaCurry
[CURRIEDEGGSENCASEDINLAMBMINCE]
ThisMuslimpartydishhasalayerofmeatneatlywrappedaroundaneggwhichisthendeep-fried.Asitcanbealittletrickytomake,itisreservedforfestiveoccasions,likemostfriedfoods.Nargisisthenarcissusflowerandthiskoftaislikenedtothebeautifulwhiteandyellowbloomagainstdarkbrownsoil.Thiscanbeservedwithapulaoriceornaan.
Serves4PREPARATION→20minutesCOOKING1hour
Forthekoftas500glambmince5largefree-rangeeggs,4hard-boiledandshelled,1beaten1onion,finelydiced1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste1freshgreenchilli,minced2teaspoonsgarammasala3tablespoonsgramflourvegetableoil,fordeep-fryingsaltForthecurry2onions,finelydiced1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste3ripetomatoesblitzedtoapuréeintheblenderor½x400gcanofchoppedtomatoes1
teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongroundcoriander1teaspoongroundcumin
3tablespoonsfull-fatyogurtafewsprigsoffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnishPulaoRiceorNaans,toserve
1Combinethemince,beatenegg,onion,ginger-garlicpaste,chilli,garammasala,gramflourandsalttoseasoninamixingbowl.Dividethemixtureintofourequalportions.Takeoneportionofminceandwrapitevenlyaroundoneofthecooled,hard-boiledeggs.Repeatwiththeremainingminceandeggs.2Heattheoilinadeepfryingpanoverahighheat.Deep-frythekoftasfor5–6minuteseachuntilgoldenbrown.Removewithaslottedspoonandplaceonatraylinedwithkitchenpapertodrain.3Ladle2tablespoonsofoilfromthefryingpanintoaseparatepanoverahighheat.Addtheonionsandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft,thentipintheginger-
garlicpasteandthepuréedortinnedtomatoesandcookfor3–4minutes.Sprinkleinthegroundspicesandacoupleoftablespoonsofwater.Seasonwithsaltandcookoveramediumheatfor4–5minutesuntiltheoilbeginstoseparate.4Foldintheyogurt.Cuteachkoftainhalflengthwaysandplacetheminthecurry.Seasontotaste,bringtotheboilandservehot,garnishedwiththecoriander,alongsidepulaoriceornaan.
SweetKhoyaPakodewaliKadhiBesanNiKadhiPaneerJalfreziMuttarPaneerPalakPaneerPaneerKiBhurjiMorKulambuKalanShahiPaneerAvial
LASSIISMADEBYBLENDINGYOGURTWITHWATER,MILKANDSPICESANDISPOPULARACROSSSOUTHASIAANDWITHSOUTHASIANCOMMUNITIESACROSSTHEWORLD.
MilkiseateninsomeformineverypartofIndia.Milkisdrunkonitsownorflavouredwithspices,flowersandherbs.Itisalsomadeintoproductsthatarecurdled,asinpaneerorchhena,non-curdled,suchasgheeandkhoya(madebycookingmilkuntilitsolidifies),orfermented,asinyogurt.
ThereisevidencethatpeopleoftheIndusValleycivilisationbredcattle–theirfamoussealofahumpedbullhasbeenstudiedbyscholarsallovertheworldwhohavecometotheconclusionthattheseancientpeopleownedcattleformilkandmeat.
Vedicliteratureisfullofreferencestomilk.TheRigveda(c.1500–1200BC)says‘whostealsthemilch-cow’smilkaway,OAgni,–tearofftheheadsofsuchwithfiercefury.’TheSushrutaSamhita,asixth-centurytextaboutAyurveda,liststhemilkofseveralanimalsasbeinggoodforhealth.Theseincludecow,camelandelephant,butcow’smilkisconsideredthebest‘rasayana-dravya’–substancethatheals,rejuvenatesandprolongslife.
DairyproductshaveaspecialplaceinHindureligiousritual.Thecow,asagiverofmilk,isconsideredsacred.Inaritualcalled‘Abhisheka’,imagesoridolsofgodsandgoddessesarebathedwithwater,yogurt,milk,honey,rosewaterandperfume.Milkbecomesapartoftheblessedfood‘panchamrit’orfivenectars:milk,yogurt,honey,gheeandsugarsyrup.
RegionalfoodpracticesinIndiavarydependingonmanyfactors,includingtheclimate.InsouthIndia,whichisclosetotheEquator,yogurtiseatenwitheverymeal,whereasinnorthIndia,whichhascoolerweather,peoplebelievethatyogurtshouldnotbeeatenduringcoldevenings.Muchofthesouthernpeninsuladrinksalight,digestivedrinkcalled‘chaas’,‘mor’or‘taak’,whichismadewithyogurtandwater.Thenorthdrinksaheavierversionofthiscalled‘lassi’.Rajasthan,adesertstate,hascameldairyfarmsandthemilkaswellasmilkproductssuchasicecreamareconsumed.
Ayurvedasuggestsincompatiblecombinations–milkshouldnotbeeatenwithfish,forexample,astheyrequiredifferentratesofdigestion.MuchofIndia’smilkcomesfrombuffalos.Buffalomilkhasahigherfatandproteincontentbutlesscholesterolthancow’smilk.Itisheavierandthereforekeepsyou
contentbutlesscholesterolthancow’smilk.Itisheavierandthereforekeepsyoufeelingfullforlonger.
MILKISEATENINSOMEFORMINEVERYPARTOFINDIA.ITISMADEINTOPRODUCTSTHATARECURDLED,ASINPANEERORCHHENA,NON-CURDLED,SUCHASGHEEAND
KHOYA,ORFERMENTED,ASINYOGURT.
CREAMCreamisconsideredaluxuriousingredientinIndiancooking.Itisreservedforfestiveorpartydishesandrestaurantfare.ContrarytothebeliefintheWestthatmanyIndiancurriescontaincream,itisusedverylittleineverydayhomecooking.Aspecialtreatmaybecreammixedwithsugarandspreadontoast,called‘malaitoast’,butthisisnotaregularbreakfast.
Inrestaurantcurries,theword‘shahi’orroyal,oftendenotesthepresenceofcream.ShahiPaneer,ShahiKoftaandShahiTukde,abread-baseddessert,areallrichandcreamydishes.
MostmilkinIndiaisdeliveredeachmorningtoyourdoor.Asitisahotcountry,ithastobeboiledbeforebeingcooledandrefrigerated.Thecoolingmilkdevelopsaskinofcreamcalled‘malai’or‘saay’andthefattierthemilkis,thedenserthislayerwillbe.Buffalomilkproducesathicklayerofcream.Whenthismilkisrefrigerated,thelayerofcreambecomesevendenser.
BUTTERHomemadebutter,called‘makhhan’or‘loni’,isadelicacyinIndia.Itissoftandwhiteandistraditionallyeatenwithbreadslike‘Makkekiroti’(Punjabicornbread)or‘Bhakri’(Maharashtrianmilletbread)–seeBajreKiBhakri.
ItismentionedinmanyfolkstoriesandisbelievedtobethefavouritefoodofIndia’smost-lovedHindugod,Krishna.Storiesofhimstealingbutterfromhismother’skitchendelightdevoteesalthoughthereisadeeperspiritualsignificance.Butteristheessenceofmilkandsymbolisesthecoreofourbeings.Inrelishingit,Krishnasaysweshouldgodeepintoourselvesandunderstandthepuritythatliestherein.
AlthoughpacksofcommercialyellowbutterareavailableinIndia,manyhomesalsomaketheirown.Thisisbecausehomemadebutterisfurthercookedintoghee.
Creamor‘malai’iscollectedoverafewdaysandastartercultureofyogurtisaddedtoit.Whenthefull-fatyogurthasset,itischurnedwithawoodeninstrumentcalleda‘ravi’,‘mathani’or‘ghotni’.Thisisaslimstickwitha
instrumentcalleda‘ravi’,‘mathani’or‘ghotni’.Thisisaslimstickwithawoodenstar-shapedchurningbitononeend.Thestickisheldbetweenthepalmsandrolledinsmallsemi-circularmovements.Wherethequantityofcreamislarge,thestickiscoiledintoaropethatispulledoneendatatimetocreatethesamemovement.
ThismovementseparatesthebutterandinIndia,theliquidleftbehindisbuttermilkcalled‘chhaas’or‘mattha’.Thisissometimesusedtomakeayogurtcurrycalled‘kadhi’ordrunkonitsown,seasonedwithsaltorflavouredwithfreshcorianderandchilli.
GHEEGheeisclarifiedbutterthatismadebycookingbuttertoevaporateanymoistureandcaramelisethemilksolidsthatcanbestrainedoff.InIndia,ghee(‘ghrita’inSanskrit)hasbeenregarded,sinceVedictimes,asanunparalleledcookingfat.Hindusconsiderfiretobethepurestelementandgheebytheverynatureofitbeingcookedoverfiremakesitrituallypure.
TraditionalHinducookerydifferentiatesbetween‘kaccha’and‘pukka’foods,kacchabeingthosethatwerecookedinwaterandweretobeconsumedinthekitchen.Pukkafoodswerecookedingheeandcouldbetakenoutofthekitchenforpublicconsumption.Theseruleswerebasedmoreonhealth,hygieneandpracticalitybut,intime,becamereligiouspracticesofpurity.Thisiswhytemplefoodsthataredistributedtodevoteesorsweetsthatcanbeboughtfromshopsarecookedingheeandareoftenverysweet.
Ayurvedichealingconsidersgheetobestrengtheninganddigestive.Somewesternresearchshowsthateatingalittlebitofghee,typicallylessthanacoupleoftablespoonsaday,canreducetheriskofcardiovasculardisease,butincreasingthisamountcanleadtoelevatedcholesterollevels.Atanyrate,eatinggheeinahottropicalclimateandacoldonemustmakeadifferenceasitis,afterall,asaturatedfat.Imakegheewithbutterfromgrass-fedcowsasthisprovidesgoodlevelsofomega3.
ManypeopleoutsideIndiabelievethatallgoodIndiancookingmustbeginwithgheebutthisisamyth.MostIndiancooksuseplantoilsforeverydaycookingandusesmallamountsofgheeasadrizzlingfatoverriceandbreadorforspecialsweetsanddesserts.
OneofmybestfoodmemoriesisofcominghomefromschoolinBombaytoahousethatsmelledofheaven.Mygrandmotherwouldbemakingghee,the
ahousethatsmelledofheaven.Mygrandmotherwouldbemakingghee,thescentofwhichwaspure,butteryandrich.Shewouldsometimesaddafreshturmericleaforabetelnutleafforflavour.Freshturmericleaveshaveafloralfragrancewhilebetelnutonessmellgrassy.Today,thebestthingaboutmakinggheeisthatwonderfularomathattakesmestraightbacktomychildhood.
YOGURTYogurt,‘dahi’or‘tayir’asitiscalledinIndia,isintegraltoIndianfood.MostIndianseatitseveraltimesaweekifnoteveryday.NorthIndiansmakelassiorraitaoreatitwithbreadscalledparatha,whereasinthesouththeyfinisheachmealwithtayirandrice.InIndia,yogurtisalsocalledcurd.UnlikeintheWest,wheremilkiscurdledwithacidtoformcurdinthefirststeptowardsmakingcheese,curdinIndiareferstohomemadeyogurt.
Thetasteandtextureofyogurtisimportant.Themostpreferredoneismildlytartbutwithasweetnessthat‘quenchesthethirst’.Itshouldbethickandnotwatery.ThemicroflorainyogurthelpdigestionandinmanypartsofIndia,amealisconcludedwithathindrinkcalled‘chaas’madebymixingalittleyogurtwithwater.‘Chaas’isalsothenamegiventothebuttermilkleftbehindwhenbutterischurnedoutofyogurtorcream.
YogurthasbeeneateninIndiasinceprehistorictimes.TheRigvedamentionsitasmixedwithgroundmeal:‘Theother(PusantheNourisher)longsforcurdandmeal’.TheArthashastra(c.350–283BCE),atreatiseonstatecraft,adviseshowtodealwithspieswhoofferyoupoisonedcurd,andmarinatingmeatwithcurdismentionedintheAin-i-Akbari,theMughalemperorAkbar’smemoirs.
PANEER/CHHENAPaneeristhemostcommonlyusedcheeseinIndiancooking.Itisanunaged,non-melting,salt-freecheesethatismadebothathomeaswellascommercially.
TheexactoriginofpaneerinIndiaisunclear.ItwaspossiblythePortuguesewhointroducedtheartofcheesemakingintoBengal,althoughreferencestocurdledmilkpreparationscanbefoundinthetwelfth-centurytextManasollasabyKingSomeshwara,whoruledpartsofsouthIndia.ThePortuguesestrongholdwasalongthewestcoastofIndia,wheretheirinfluencecanbeseeneventodayinplaceslikeGoa,buttheyalsohadsettlementsinBengalwhichneverbecamereallyimportant.
TheManasollasamentionsrecipesaddingbuttermilktoslightlywarmedmilkandthenpouringalltheseparatedmilkintoacloth,tyingandhangingtheparcelsothatallthewaterdripsdown.Themethodinwhichmilkwascurdledvariedthroughtheages.
TheBandelcheese,introducedbythePortuguese,wasmadeintheirsettlementofthesamename,about30milesnorthofKolkattainBengal.Thisunripenedcow’smilkcheesewasmadebyseparatingthecurdwiththehelpoflemonjuice,thendrainingitinperforatedpots.Itwassometimessmokedbutalwayshadlotsofsaltaddedtoittoincreaseitsshelflife.Bandelcheeseisstillmade,butproductionhasmovedtoTarkeshwarandBishnupur,bothadistanceawayfromKolkatta.
SurtipaneerismadeinthewesternstateofGujarat–thisiscoagulatedwithrennetandmaturedinitswhey.Itismostlysoldlocally.
Freshcheeseiscalled‘chhena’or‘chhana’,nottobeconfusedwithchanaorchickpea.TheBengalisfoundthattheunsaltedcurdcouldbekneadedandmadeintovarioussweetsbyaddingsugarandspicesand,today,Bengalimilksweetsaresomeofthebest-knowndessertsinthecountry.
When‘chhena’,whichiscrumbly,ispressedunderheavyweights,itlosesmostofitsmoisturetobecomeafirm,densecheesecalledpaneer.
Today,cooksinmanypartsofnorthIndiamake‘chhena’athomeanduseitindishessuchasBhurji(scrambled)–orsweetssuchas‘rasmalai’,orbuyready-madepaneertouseindishessuchasSaagPaneerwherespinachiscombinedwithafirmercheese.Theterm‘paneer’isappliedlooselytohomemadechhenaaswell,andthisismadebysplittingmilkwithanacidicliquidsuchaslemonjuice,vinegarorcitricacid.PaneerisamostlynorthIndianfood,usedinhomecooking.OvermostofIndia,commercialpaneerisexpensiveandislargelyusedinfestivefeastsasavegetarianoption.Itcanbestoredinthefridgefor3–4daysorfrozenforupto1month.
KHOYAVariouslyknownas‘khoya’,‘khava’,‘khoa’,‘mava’or‘khuvaa’,thisismadebycookingfull-fatmilk,eithercow’sorbuffalo’s,untilthemoistureevaporatesandconcentratedmilksolidsareleftbehind.Itisusedtothickensomerich,festivecurriesandmoreimportantlyformakinghomemadeandcommercialsweetscalled‘mithai’and‘burfi’.Thetechniqueofboilingthemilkoverawell-
called‘mithai’and‘burfi’.Thetechniqueofboilingthemilkoverawell-regulatedheatisimportantsothatthemilkdoesnotcarameliseorburn.Purekhoyaiswhiteorpaleyellowincolour.Equallyimportantisthestirringandscrapingthesolidsfromthesidesofthepanbackintothemixture.
Traditionallykhoyacanbemadeinthreeforms–‘battikhoya’isthehardest,‘daan-e-daar’(‘granular’)ismediumsoftandchewy,and‘chikna’(‘sticky’)hasthehighestmoisturecontent.Quick,modernversionsincludethecombinationofcondensedmilkwithcreamormilkpowder.Themilkiscookedintothesevariousformsdependingonthefinalproductitwillbeusedfor.
BattiKhoya→Alsocalledpindikhoya,thisisformedwhenthemilkisreduceduntilitisverydry.Itisthenrolledintoadough,orblocksthatcanbegrated.ThedensetexturemakesitperfectforsweetssuchasGulabJamun,whereitismixedwithwheatflourorsemolina,friedassmallballs,thensteepedinsweetenedrosewater.
Daan-e-daarkhoya→Thisformismoisterthanbattiandismadebystoppingthecookingbeforethemixturereachesthe‘batti’stage.Sweetssuchas‘kalakand’aremadebycombiningthiskhoyawithsugar,spicesandnuts,makingthemostofthegranulartexture.
Chiknakhoya→Thisisthemostmoist,stickyformofkhoya,alsoknownas‘dhap’.Itismadebystoppingcookingearlierthanforbattiordaan-e-daarkhoya.Itssmoothconsistencyisusedinrecipesfor‘halwa’orfudgeandmilkydesserts.
MASTERCLASS
HOWTOMAKEBUTTER
FROMMILKSKIN
1Pour2litresoffull-fatmilkintoaheavy-basedsaucepanandbringtotheboil.Removefromtheheat,leavetocoolcompletelyandrefrigerateforafewhoursuntilwellchilled.Thiswillhelptocreateadenser‘skin’ontopofthemilk.
2Removethemilkfromthefridgeandgentlyskimofftheskinor‘malai’intoanotherbowl.Youwillneedtodothiseverydayfor3–4daysuntilyougetenough‘malai’.Theamountofskinyougetwillofcoursedependonthefatcontentinthemilkyouareusing.
3Beatorwhiskthe‘malai’untilyouseeitseparatingintosolidbutterandamilkyliquid.Thebutterwillfloattothetopinlittlecloudybits.Strainthemixturethroughasievetocollectthebutterandrinsethisunderagentlyrunningcoldtap.Squeezethebutterwithyourfingersorthebackofspoontogetridofthemoisture.Thelesswetthebutter,thebetteritwillkeep.Refrigerateandconsumewithinacoupleofdays.
FROMYOGURT
1Refrigeratethe‘malai’(cream).Keepgoingforafewdaysuntilyouhaveenough.Bringthecreamtoroomtemperatureandaddacoupleofteaspoonsofyogurtculture.Keepthebowlinawarmplaceovernighttosetthecreamintoyogurt.
2Usingachurningstickorwhisk,churntheyogurtuntilthebutterfloatstothetop.Strainthisout,reservingtheliquidwhichisculturedbuttermilk.Washthebutterundercoldrunningwaterandrefrigerate.Washingoutthebuttermilkwillpreventearlyspoilage.Youcandunkthebutterintoabowlofcoldwaterwithsomeicecubestofirmitupandmakewashingeasier.InIndia,someofthisbutteriskepttoeatwithbreadswhiletherestisturned
intoghee.
FROMCREAM
1Putacartonofdoubleorwhippingcreamintoalargebowlandbeatwithahand-heldelectricwhiskorregularwhiskuntilitthickensandbutterbeginstoform.Refrigerate.
MASTERCLASS
HOWTOMAKEGHEE
Cuttingthebutterintocubeswhenmakinggheeensuresthatitmeltsquicklyandevenly.
COOKING30–40minutes
YOUWILLNEED:250gunsaltedbutter(getthebestgrass-fedororganicbutter),cutintosmallsquares–aheavy-basedsaucepan–alargespoon,forstirring–muslincloth–sieve–a250mlclean,sterilisedglassjar
1Meltthebutterinthesaucepanoveramediumheat,stirringitfromtimetotime.Youshouldseethickwhitefoamdevelopingontopoftheyellow,opaquebutterbeneath.Keepstirringuntilthebutterbeginstosimmer,thenreducetheheat.
2Simmerfor4–5minuteswithoutstirring.Thebubbleswillincreaseinsizeandnumberandbecomeclearer.Themilksolidswillstarttosticktothesidesandbottomofthepan.Scrapethesebackintothepantopreventthemfromburningandturningthegheeadarkcolour.
3Thebutterwillbegintobecomeclearandthesolidswillsitatthebottom,thenthebubbleswillbecomeclearerandtherewillbelittleornowhitefoamleft.
4Thebutterwillstarttoturnacleargoldenyellowwhilethemilksolidsatthebottombegintodarken.Stirafewtimestostopthesolidsfromburningandkeepaclosewatch.Thebutterwillfoamupasecondtimewhichindicatesthatitisreadytobestrained.
5Placeamuslin-linedsieveoveraheatproofjugandstrainthegheeintothejug.Leaveittocoolslightlythendecantintothesterilisedglassjar.Squeezethemilksolidsinthemuslingentlyastherewillstillbealotofgheeinthem.Thesesolidsaresometimesmixedwithsugarandeatenwithrotis,butIjustdiscardthem.
6Transferthegheetothefridge.Itwillkeepwellforafewmonths.
MASTERCLASS
HOWTOMAKEYOGURT
AlmosteveryIndianhomemakesyogurtonadailybasis.Commercialpotyogurtsareavailableonlyinsomeplacesandtheyareexpensive.Inatropicalclimate,settingyogurtdoesnottakemorethanafewhours.Incoldercountries,thiswilltakelongerandbesuccessfulonlyifthemilkisplacedinawarmplace.Peoplebelievethattheover-processingthattakesplaceintheproductionofcommercialproductscankillthevitalbacteriapresentinyogurtthatmakesitsoimportantforgooddigestion.
YOUWILLNEED:200mlfull-fatmilk2tablespoonslivebioyogurt,atroomtemperature
1Pourthemilkintoasaucepanandwarmitonlyuntilitishandhot.
2Puttheyogurtinabowlandaddacoupleoftablespoonsofthewarmedmilktoit.Mixwell,thenpourintheremainingmilkandstir.
3Coverthebowlandputitinawarmplace–thisiscrucial–forafewhours,undisturbed,untiltheyogurthasset.Thetimeittakestosetwilldependmainlyonthequalityoftheyogurtcultureandthetemperature.
MASTERCLASS
HOWTOMAKECHHENA–Paneer
Homemadepaneeriseasytomakeandismoredeliciousandsoftthancommerciallyavailablepaneer.
Makesabout200gchhena(dependingonthefatcontentofthemilk)PREPARATION→3hoursdrainingtimeCOOKING10minutes
YOUWILLNEED:about1litrefull-fatmilkafewtablespoonsoflemonjuice(about2lemons)–a
heavy-basedsaucepan–alargepieceofmuslin–adeepbowlorbucket–ladleorwoodenspoon
1Pourthemilkintothesaucepanandbringittotheboil.Turntheheatoffandaddthelemonjuice.Youwillneedtoaddasmuchlemonjuiceasrequiredtoseparateoutthesolids,whichwillrisetothetop,leavingbehindatranslucent,milkyliquid.Iusuallyneed1½lemons.
2Linethebowlorbucketwiththemuslinandgentlypourinthecontentsofthesaucepan.Liftupthemuslinandtietheedgestomakeatightparcelofcheese.Discardtheliquidcollectedinthebowl.
3Pushthewoodenspoonorladlethroughtheknotinthemuslinandhangtheparceloverthebowlorbucket,makingsurethattheparceldoesnottouchthebottom.
4Allowthewheytodrainoffforabout3hours,thenunwrapandstorein
anairtightcontainer.This‘chhena’willkeepinthefridgeforacoupleofdays.
5Youcancutthisintosoftchunksorforadensertexture,pressthechhenaundertheheaviestobjectinyourkitchen–mineisalarge,granitepestleandmortar–foracoupleofhours.
MASTERCLASS
HOWTOMAKEKHOYA
KhoyaisusedasabaseformanyIndian‘burfies’orfudge-likesweetsandcanbeflavouredwithnuts,suchaspistachiosoralmonds,ordriedfruit,suchasfigsanddates.
Makesabout250gkhoyaCOOKINGabout2hours,dependingonpanandheatsourceused
YOUWILLNEED:1.25litresfull-fatmilk–aheavy-based,preferablynon-stick,fryingpan–asiliconeorwoodenspatulaorspoon
1Pourthemilkintothefryingpanandbringtotheboil.Thewidthofthepanwillallowfasterevaporationofthemilk.Whenitcomestotheboil,reducetheheatandsimmer,stirringfrequentlytopreventitfromboilingover.
2Asthemilkbeginstothicken(afterabout40minutes),scrapethesolidsfromthesidesbackintothepanwithaspatulaandstir,topreventthemilkfromburningatthebottom.
3Withinabout1hour,themilkwillappeartohavebitsinit–thisisthemilksolidifying.Continuecookingoveralow–mediumheat,stirringfrequently.
4Asthemixturedriesup,youwillseesmallbubblesonthesurface–thisistheremainingmoisturedryingup.Stircontinuously.Assoonasthebubbles
havesubsided,removethepanfromtheheat.Scrapethecontentsofthepanintoaheatproofbowlandleavetocool.
5Refrigerateandusewithin2days.Itwillthickenslightlyoncooling.
SweetKhoya
[VARIATION]
Aquickwaytomakesweetkhoyafordesserts.
250gmilkpowder7tablespoonscondensedmilk
1Combinetheingredientsinaheavy-basedsaucepanandcookoveramediumheatfor5–6minutesuntilthemixtureblendstoformaball.Coolandusewithintwodays.
PakodewaliKadhi
[YOGURTCURRYWITHFRIEDDUMPLINGS]
ThisdishisfromthenorthofIndia,andisespeciallylovedinPunjabandUttarPradesh,althoughotherpartsofIndiaalsomakeyogurt-basedcurriessuchastheBesanNiKadhimadeinGujarat.‘Kadhis’arequicktoprepareandcanbemadewithingredientssuchasgramflour,yogurtandspicesthatmostIndiankitchenshavereadilyavailable.Thisiswhytheyaresopopular.Itisservedwithriceandhotmangopickle.The‘pakode’ordumplingsthatgointothecurrycanbemadewithavarietyofvegetablessuchasspinach,gratedcarrots,fenugreekleavesorcauliflowerflorets.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING40minutes
300gnaturalyogurt1freshgreenchilli,finelychopped½teaspoongroundturmeric2teaspoonscastersugar250ggramflourvegetableoil,fordeep-frying1teaspooncuminseeds,plusextraforthedumplings10black
peppercorns6cloves1mediumonion,finelychopped1teaspoondriedfenugreekleaves(kasoorimethi)1
tablespoongheeoroil½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowdersaltboiledriceandhotmangopickle,toserve
1Whisktheyogurtwiththegreenchilli,turmeric,sugar,salttoseasonand300mlcoldwater.2Heatafryingpanoveramediumheat,add100gofthegramflouranddry-toastitfor8–10minutes,stirringtostopitscorching,untilitisslightlydarkincolour.Whiskthisintotheyogurtmixture,makingsuretherearenolumps.3Heat2tablespoonsofoilinaheavy-basedpanoverahighheatandaddthecuminseeds,peppercornsandcloves.Frythespicesforafewsecondsthengivetheyogurtmixtureagoodstirandpouritintothepan.Bringtotheboil,reduce
theheatandcookfor12–15minutes,stirringfrequently,untilitreachestheconsistencyofathickbatterandtherawflouraromahasgone.Removefromtheheatandsetaside.4Forthedumplings,combinetheremaininggramflour,onion,fenugreek,apinchofcuminseedsandadd70–80mlcoldwatertomakeathickbatter.Thebattershouldjustaboutdropoffaspoon.5Heatenoughvegetableoilfordeep-fryinginaheavy-basedpanoverahighheat.Whenitstartssmoking,reducetheheatanddropin2–3separateteaspoonsofbatteratatime.Fryfor3–4minutesuntilgolden,removewithaslottedspoonanddipintoabowloftepidwaterfor1minutetosoftenthemabit.Squeezeoutthewaterandaddthedumplingstotheyogurtcurry.Repeatuntilyouhaveusedupallthebatter.6Heatthegheeoruseatablespoonoftheoilusedfordeep-fryingthedumplingsinasmallpanandaddthechillipowder.Assoonasthespicesizzles,pourthismixtureoverthecurryandservewithoutstirringwithriceandhotmangopickle.
BesanNiKadhi
[GUJARATI-STYLESWEETANDSOURYOGURTCURRY]
Gujarati-styleKadhiismadewithyogurtandgramflourbutusuallyitislighter,whiterandsweeterthanthenorthIndianversion.GujaratliesonthecoastinwesternIndiaandhasveryhotsummers.Foodsneedtoberatherheavilysaltedtoreplacethesaltlostinperspirationandspicedtocountertheheatasspicespromoteperspirationandhelptocoolthebodydown.Inordertobalancethesestrongflavours,Gujaraticooksaddsugarorjaggerytomuchoftheirfood.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING25minutes
2heapedtablespoonsgramflour300gnaturalyogurt2tablespoonscastersugar1teaspoonchilli-gingerpaste(1freshgreenchilliand1.5cmpieceoffreshrootgingerpoundedtogetherinapestleandmortarorveryfinelychopped)1tablespoonvegetableoil1teaspoonfenugreekseeds3cloves
½teaspooncrushedblackpeppercorns10freshcurryleaves3driedredchilliessalt
1Heatafryingpanoveramediumheat,addthegramflouranddry-toastitfor8–10minutes,stirringtostopitscorching,untilitisslightlydarkincolour.Whiskthisintotheyogurt,makingsurethattherearenolumps(strainitthroughasieveifnecessary).Addthesugarandthechilli-gingerpastealongwithenoughwatertomakeapouringconsistency,andseasonwithsalt.2Transfertheyogurtmixturetoasaucepanandcookoveralow–mediumheat,stirringconstantly,for10–15minutesuntilthickandcreamy.Donotallowtheyogurttoboil.Simplywhiskthesaucebrisklyifthecurrylookslikeitiscurdling.3Forthetempering,heattheoilinasmallpanoverahighheatandaddthefenugreekseeds,clovesandpeppercorns.Whentheystarttosizzle,addthecurryleaves(standingbackfromthepan,astheywillsplutter)andchilliesandpourintothecurry.Servewarm.
PaneerJalfrezi
[PANEERWITHGREENPEPPERS,ONIONSANDTOMATOES]
Thisisarestaurant-styledish,madeeitherinatomatoandonioncurrysauceorasasemi-drysidedishlikethisrecipe.Itlooksfestiveandcolourfulandisagoodadditiontoapartymealwhenentertainingfriends.Useshop-boughtordensehomemadepaneerforthis,asitneedstoholditsshape.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING25minutes
2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspooncuminseeds1largeonion,thinlysliced1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste1teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongroundcoriander2peppers(oneredandonegreen),deseededandthinlysliced250gpaneer,cubed1tomato,slicedverticallysmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnishsaltandfreshlygroundblack
pepperRotisorParathas,toserve
1Heattheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat,addthecuminseedsandfryfor30secondsuntilslightlydark.Addtheonionandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft.2Addtheginger-garlicpasteandfryforafewsecondsuntilwellblended,thensprinkleinthegroundspicesandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Cookoveralowheatforafewsecondsthenaddacoupleoftablespoonsofwater.Continuecookingforafewminutes,stirringfromtimetotime,untiltheoilbeginstoseparate.3Addthepeppers,stirandcookforabout8minutesuntiltheyaresoftenedbutstillholdtheirshape,thenaddthepaneerandmixwell.Addtheslicedtomato,cover,andcookforacoupleofminutesuntilsoftbutnotmushy.4Removefromtheheat,garnishwiththefreshcoriander,andservehotwith
rotisorparathas.
MuttarPaneer
[INDIANCOTTAGECHEESEWITHPEAS]
AclassicnorthIndiandish,thistastesbestwhenthepaneerislightlyfriedbeforeaddingittothecurry.Youcanusefreshorfrozenpeas(adjustthecookingtimesaccordingly).
Serves4PREPARATION→5minutesCOOKING20minutes
2tablespoonsvegetableoil150gpaneer,cubed1teaspooncuminseeds½teaspoondriedfenugreekleaves(kasoorimethi–optional)1largefreshgreenchilli,slitlengthways1tablespoontomatopurée½teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongroundcoriander200ggreengardenpeas(freshorfrozen)pinchofcastersugarahandfulofchoppedfreshcorianderleaves,togarnishsaltRotis,toserve
1Heathalftheoilinanon-stickfryingpanoverahighheat,addthepaneerandlightlyfryfor1–2minutesoneachside.Transfertokitchenpaperandleavetodrain.2Addtheremainingoiltothepan,addthecuminseedsandfryuntiltheydarkenslightly,thensprinkleinthefenugreekleaves(ifusing).3Tipinthechilliandtomatopurée,sprinkleinthegroundspices,stirafewtimesandpourin100mlwater.Bringtotheboilthensimmerfor4–5minutesuntiltheoilbeginstoseparate.
4Addthepeasandcookfor6–7minutes(longerifusingfresh)untiltender,addingmorewaterifnecessarytocookthepeas.Seasonwithsaltandaddthesugar.5Foldinthepaneerandsimmerforacoupleofminutes,thenremovefromtheheatandservehot,sprinkledwiththefreshcoriander,withrotisalongside.
PalakPaneer
[SPINACHWITHPANEER]
Thisiscalled‘saagpaneer’innorthIndiaandinmanyrestaurants.Youcanusefrozenspinachinsteadoffresh.SomecookslightlyfrythepaneerbeforeaddingitbutIpreferthisversionwherethecreaminessofthespinachmatchesthesoftnessofthepaneer.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING25minutes
450gfreshspinach,washedanddrained(orfrozenspinach)2tablespoonsvegetableoil½teaspooncuminseedslargepinchofdriedfenugreekleaves(kasoorimethi–optional)1largeonion,finelychopped1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste2largetomatoes,roughlychopped½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder½teaspoongarammasala225gpaneer,cubedsaltRotisorboiledriceandTarkaDal,toserve
1Putthespinachinaheavy-basedpanoverahighheatwith3tablespoonsofwaterandwiltfor5minutes.Leavetocoolslightlythenblitzinablenderalongwiththecookingwatertoformathickpurée.Setaside.2Heattheoilinaheavy-basedpanoverahighheat,addthecuminseedsandfryuntiltheyturnslightlydark,thentipinthefenugreekleaves(ifusing).Addtheonionandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft,thenstirintheginger-garlicpasteandtomatoesandcookoveralowheatfor5minutesuntilsoft.Stirinthespicepowdersandacoupleoftablespoonsofwaterandcontinuecookingforafew
minutesuntiltheoilbeginstoseparate.3Pourinthespinachpurée,seasonwithsalt,reducetheheatandgentlyaddthecubedpaneer.Simmerfor1minutethenremovefromtheheat.Thepaneerwillsoftenintheheat.Servehotwithroti,orasanaccompanimenttoriceandTarkaDal.
PaneerKiBhurji
[SPICYSCRAMBLEDPANEER]
Thisisaquick,creamydishthatcanaddproteintoavegetarianmeal.Makeitasspicyasyouwish,byincreasingthenumberofchillies.ThisdishisfromnorthIndiawherepaneerisanimportantpartofthecuisine.ThePunjabisconsidermilktobeenergisingandassociateitsproductswithgood,healthyeating.Yogurt,lassi(madebythinningyogurtwithabitofwater)andpaneerarealleatenonaregularbasis.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,pluschhena/paneermakingtime(seehere)COOKING15minutes
1tablespoonvegetableoil½teaspooncuminseeds1smallonion,finelychopped2freshgreenchillies,finelychopped½greenpepper,
deseededandfinelydiced2tomatoes,chopped1teaspoongroundturmeric200gfreshly-madechhenaorpaneerafewfreshcorianderleaves,choppedsalt
1Heattheoilinasaucepanoverahighheatthenaddthecuminseedsandfryforaminuteorsountiltheyturndark.Addtheonion,chilliesandgreenpepperandcookfor6–7minutesuntilsoft.2Stirinthetomatoesandturmericandcookforabout3minutesuntilwellblended.3Addthechhenaorpaneerandcookoveralowheatforafewminutes,scramblingitintothemixtureuntilwarmedthrough.Season,stirinthefreshcorianderandservehot.
MorKulambu
[YOGURTCURRYWITHOKRA]
ThiscurryhasdifferentversionsindifferentsouthernstatessuchasTamilNaduandAndhraPradesh.InTamilNadu,anativevegetable–‘sundaikkai’orpeaaubergine–issometimesadded.Thisberry-likevegetablegrowsinclustersandlookslikegreenpeas.InAndhraPradesh,localchilliesareaddedtomakeaspiciercurry.Sometimesvegetableslikeokra,aubergineoronion,orevenfrittersmadeofflourandonion,similartoanonionbhajia,areaddedtomakeitmoresubstantial.
Serves4PREPARATION→20minutes,includingsoakingtimeCOOKING35minutes
2teaspoonscorianderseeds1teaspoonsplitgramlentils(chanadal)1tablespooncoconutoil1teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseedslargepinchoffreshcurryleaves250gokra,top
andtailedandcutinto1cmpieces1teaspoongroundturmeric2freshgreenchillies100ggratedfreshorfrozencoconutthumb-sizedpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedand
chopped250gnaturalyogurtsaltboiledrice,toserve
1Soakthecorianderseedsandlentilsinalittlewarmwater.2Meanwhile,heattheoilinasaucepanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheystarttopop,addthecurryleaves(standingbackfromthepan,astheywillsplutter)andtheokra.Seasonwithsaltandstiroveramediumheatwithoutanywaterfor8–10minutesuntiltheokraistender.Sprinkleinhalftheturmericandcookforafurtherminute.Youshouldbeabletocutthroughapieceofokrawithaspoon.3Drainthecorianderseedsandlentilsandputtheminablenderalongwiththechillies,coconutandginger.Addenoughwatertobarelycoverthemixtureandblitztoafinepurée.Pourintheyogurtandstirintheremainingturmeric.
4Heatthemixtureinapanoveramediumheatuntilyouseethefirstbubblesappearonthesurface.5Removefromtheheatandstirintheokra.Servehotwithrice.
Kalan
[YOGURTANDCOCONUTCURRY]
ThisdishfromKeralaisalwaysincludedina‘sadhya’ortraditionalfeastthatisservedonabananaleaf,especiallyduringtheHinduriceharvestfestivalofOnam.ThebestplantaintouseistheKeralaNendran,whichisfirmanddoesnotsquashdowneasily.Itcanbereplacedwithotherfirmplantainsoryam–thiswilltakelongertocook–orripemangoes(leavetheskinonandcookforacoupleofminutesoverahighheat).
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes(longerifyouaregratingthecoconutfromscratch)COOKING25minutes
2plantain,peeledandthicklysliced1teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder150gfreshlygratedorfrozencoconut2freshgreenchillies(seedsandall)1teaspooncuminseeds
7–8freshor10driedcurryleaves200gnaturalyogurt2tablespoonscoconutoil1teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseeds½teaspoonfenugreek
seeds3driedredchilliessaltboiledrice,toserve(optional)
1Puttheplantaininasaucepanoverahighheatwiththeturmeric,chillipowder,salttoseasonandjustenoughwatertocover.Bringtotheboil,reducetheheatandsimmerfor7–8minutes.2Putthecoconut,greenchillies,cuminseedsandhalfthecurryleavesinablender,addenoughwatertocoverthemixture,andblitzuntilyouhaveaveryfinepurée.Pouritintoabowlandstirintheyogurt.3Stirthecoconutandyogurtmixtureintothepanwiththecookedplantainandcookoveramediumheatuntilitbeginstobubble.Seasonwithsalt.4Heattheoilinasmallpanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheybegintopop,tipinthefenugreekseeds,redchilliesandremainingcurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter).
5Pourthisoiloverthecurryalongwiththespices.Servehotwithriceorasasidedishtoacurry.
ShahiPaneer
[RICHCREAMYPANEERCURRY]
Shahimeans‘royal’andthisisessentiallyanorthIndianrestaurantorpartydishduetoitsrichness.Itismildandpalewiththerichnessofnuts,cream,saffronandspices,allhallmarkingredientsofMughlaicookingwhichthisdishformsapartof.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING40minutes
2onions,thinlysliced3tablespoonsunsaltedcashewnutslargepinchofsaffron100mlsinglecream2tablespoonsvegetableoilorghee4cloves1smallcinnamonstick2bayleaves3greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste2freshgreenchillies,slitlengthways350gpaneer,cubed1teaspoongarammasala50gfull-fatyogurtsaltNaansorPulaoRice,toserve
1Puttheonionsandcashewnutsinasaucepanwithjustenoughwatertocover.Bringtotheboilthenreducetheheatandsimmerfor15minutesuntilverysoft.Coolslightlythenblitztoapuréeinablenderalongwiththecookingliquiduntilsmooth:itwilllookcreamyandpale.2Combinethesaffronandcreaminasmallsaucepan.Heatgentlyforafewminutesuntilthecreamhasturnedpaleorange,thenremovefromtheheat.3Heattheoilorgheeinasaucepanoverahighheatandaddallthewholespices.Whentheystarttosizzle,stirintheginger-garlicpasteandgreenchillies.Stiracoupleoftimesandaddthepaneer.Fryuntillightgolden.4Afteraminute,pourinthepalesaucefromtheblenderandbringtotheboil.
Stirinthesaffroncreamandgarammasala,andseasonwithsalt.Cookforacoupleofminutes.5Addtheyogurt,bringuptoalmostboilingpointandremovefromtheheat.6Servehotwithnaansorpulaorice.
Avial
[MIXEDVEGETABLESINCOCONUTANDYOGURT]
ThisrecipeisservedaspartofanOnamfeastinKerala.OnamusuallyfallsaroundAugust/September.TherecipefeatureslocalvegetablesthatcanbefoundinsouthIndianshopsaroundtheworld,includingdrumstick,whichisalongbean-likevegetablethat’scutinto4cmlengthsandcookedandservedinitsskin.Wheneatingit,youbreakthetenderstickinhalf,scoopoutthesoftfleshfrominsideanddiscardthechewyskin.
Serves4PREPARATION→25minutesCOOKING45minutes
300gmixedrawvegetables,suchascarrots,greenbeans,rawbanana,redpumpkin,yam,drumstick1teaspoongroundturmeric100ggratedfreshorfrozencoconut2freshgreenchillies
½teaspooncuminseeds10blackpeppercorns150gnaturalyogurt,seasonedwithsalt1tablespooncoconutoil10freshcurryleavessaltboiledrice,toserve
1Chopallthevegetables,exceptthebeansanddrumstick,intoeven-sizedcubessothattheycookevenlytogether.Cutthedrumstickorgreenbeansinhalf.Putallthevegetables,exceptthebeansandyam,inapanwithenoughwatertojustcoverthem,thenaddtheturmericandseasonwithsalt.Bringtotheboil,reducetheheatandsimmerfor8–10minutes.Addthebeansandyamandcontinuecookingfor6–7minutesuntilallthevegetablesarealmostdone.2Meanwhile,blitzthecoconut,chillies,cuminseedsandpeppercornstoapuréeinablenderwithalittlewater.3Whenthevegetablesarealmostdone,addthispuréetothepan.Bringtotheboil,thenreducetheheatandpourintheseasonedyogurt.Simmerforacoupleofminutes,addthecoconutoilandcurryleavesandstir.Removefromtheheatandservehotwithrice.
TarkaDalAamtiPoonduRasamPoosanikaiSambharBengaliCholarDalGujaratiDalMatkichiUsalBhunaLobiaValacheBirdeCholayRajmaTamaterChanyachiAmtiVellarikkaKootuSabutMasoorKiDalPalakDalBootorDaliDalitoyBhajaMugerDalSindhiDalPanchmelDal
DALISTHESTAPLEFOODALLOVERINDIAANDISEATENWITHRICEORROTIS.THISFAIRLYINEXPENSIVECOMBINATIONOFDALANDRICECANSUSTAINALARGE
VEGETARIANPOPULATIONQUITEEASILY.
LentilsareancientfoodsandwereeateninIndiainprehistorictimes.‘Masura’orredlentilsarementionedintextsdatingbackto800BC.‘Mudga’ormungoriginatedinIndiaandismentionedintheYajurveda(c.1200–100BCE)alongwithwheat,sesame,riceandbarley.
Lentilsarecalled‘dal’inmanypartsofIndia.Theworddenotestherawproductaswellascookedlentils.Theyareessentiallycarbohydrateandproteinwithnofat.Indiaisoneofthelargestgrowersoflentilsintheworldbecauseofidealclimaticconditionsaswellasthehighdemandforthem.Indiansconsumethemonadailybasisbecausethey’resoreadilyavailable,cheapandfilling,andastheybulkuponcooking,alittlegoesalongwayinfeedingthewholefamily.
DalisthestaplefoodalloverIndiaandiseatenwithriceorrotis.Theaminoacidscysteineandmethioninemissinginlentilsareprovidedbygrains,andthelysinethatislimitedingrainsissuppliedbylentils.Lycineisanaminoacidthatisessentialinthebiosynthesisofproteins.Thehumanbodycannotsynthesiseitsoitmustbeacquiredfromthediet.Therefore,thisfairlyinexpensivecombinationofdalandriceformsapowerhouseofcompleteprotein,thatisanadequateproportionofallthenineessentialaminoacidsneededbyhumans,andwhichcansustainalargevegetarianpopulationquiteeasily.
Theword‘dal’isquiteconfusingbecauseitislooselyusedforalargegroupoflentils,pulsesandlegumes,bothcookedanduncooked.Lentilsarelegumesthatareshapedlikeaconvexlens,whereasbeansarebigger.Thetermalsoincludesbeanslikekidneybeans,chickpeasordriedpeas,allofwhicharegrownandeateninIndia.EveryIndianfoodshopIhavebeentohasquiteafewshelvesstackedwithlegumes.RegionalIndiancuisinesreflectwhatisgrownlocally–soKashmiricookingusesredkidneybeansthataregrowninabundancethere.‘Moth’beansarepopularinRajasthan,GujaratandMaharashtrawherethey’regrown.Someofthemostpopularlentilsandbeansarelistedbelow.
Indiandalsareavailableinthreemainforms:WholePulse(SabutDal)→Thisisthewholebean,asinmungbean(green),
urad/uridbean(black),masoor(brownlentils)sowillbecalled,forexample,‘sabutmungkidal’.SplitPulse(Chilka)→Thisisthesplitbeanwiththeskinon,suchasmungdalchilka.HulledPulse(DhuliHuiDal)→Thisisthesplit,skinnedbeansuchasmungdal(theseareyellowwhenthegreenskinisstrippedaway),uraddal(whentheblackskinisremoved,thelentilwithiniscreamywhite)ormasoordal(redlentilswhichareinsidethebrownskin).
Pulsesaremostoftencookedintoastew-likepreparationcalleddalbutarealsousedtomakedessertslike‘puranpoli’wherecookedandsweetenedlentilsarelayeredbetweenfineflourpancakes,orsnackssuchas‘dhokla’,aspongy,savourycaketemperedwithmustardandcumin.
Theyareusedforbattersasin‘dosa’orsouthIndianpancakesortothickencurriesasin‘kadhi’,ayogurtandgramflourpreparation.
Thewholebeansandthesplitonesarequitedifferentandarenotalwaysinterchangeable,socheckwhattherecipeasksforbeforebuying.Youcanstoretheminanairtightcontainerforupto6months.Sometimeslentilscanbeinterchangeable,aslongasyoukeeptothesamesize.
RED/ORANGELENTILS(MASOORDAL)Orangelentilsaretheseedsofabushyplantandgrowinlongpods.Whenleftwholethelentilsaredarkbrowntogreenish-blackincolour,roundandflattish.Thefairlythickskinconcealsapinkish-orangecentre.Theselentilsaredelicate
inflavourandhaveanutty,freshtaste.Thewholelentilsaremuskier,chewyandcoarser.
YELLOWLENTILSMungBeans(Moong)→Mungbeans,orgreengram,areveryversatile.‘Beansprouts’,commonlyavailableeverywhere,areactuallysproutedmungbeans.
Wholemungbeans,orgreengram,aresmall,ovalandolive-greenincolour.Whensplit,theyaresmall,flattishandyellow.Wholemungbeanshaveastrongerflavourandtexturethanthesplitones.Theyareratherchewyandmusky.Theyellow,splitmungbeansareextremelyeasytocook,neednosoakingandareeasytodigest.
Theyareusedforbothsweetandsavourydishesandareeasytosproutathome(seehere).
PigeonPea(ToororArharDal)→InsomepartsofIndia,yellowlentilsareslightlyoiledtoincreasetheirshelflife,moresowhenthelentilsareexported,andthereforeIndianshopsoutsideIndiausuallystocktheoilyvarietyofyellowlentilsaswellasnon-oily.
Theselentilsareyellowandsoldsplitintotworoundhalves.Theoilyvarietyisstickyandglossy;thenon-oilyoneismatte.Theyareveryeasytodigestandhaveapleasant,nuttyflavour.Theytakelongertocookthanredlentilsandcanbesoakedforanhourorsotohastenthecookingprocess.
Ifyoubuyoilyyellowlentils,soaktheminboilinghotwaterforawhileandthrowawaytheresultingcloudy,whiteliquid.Thenwashthelentilsseveraltimestogetridofmostoftheoil.
GramLentils(ChanaDal)→Gram,orBengalgramasitisalsoknown,isthemostwidelygrownlentilinIndia.Theyarehuskedandleftwhole,splitorgroundintoaflourcalledbesan.Thisflourisusedtomakebatter(asinfritters),asathickeningagentincurriesoriscookedwithjaggerytomakemanydifferentsweets.
Matteandyellow,gramlentilsresembleyellowlentilsbutareslightlybiggerandcoarser.Theyarestrongerintastethanmostotherlentils,withanuttysweetaromaandflavour.Soakingthemfor1hourinhotwaterwillreducetheircookingtime.
cookingtime.
URADDALThisisalsoknownasblacklentilorgramandisthesamesizeandshapeasthemungbean.IthasbeenusedinIndiasinceancienttimesasisevidentfromtextswhereitisreferredtoas‘maasha’.Ithasanearthyflavourandwhencookeddevelopsacreamy,slipperytexturethatisprizedinrecipessuchasthenorthIndian‘dalmakhani’.
CHICKPEAS(CHANA)Therearetwomainvarietiesofchickpeas:white(kabulichana)andbrown(strangelycalledkalachanaorblackchickpeas).
Thesepeasaresmall,hardandhaveathickskin,whichoftencomesawayduringsoakingandcooking.Ontheirown,chickpeashavelittlearomaortaste,butwhencookedwithflavouringsandspices,theytakeonanutty,creamyflavour.
Chickpeasareavailabledriedorcookedandtinnedinbrine.Somecooksswearbysoakingandcookingthemathome,butIusecannedchickpeastosavetime.Driedchickpeasneedtobesoakedinwateratroomtemperatureforatleast8hours,afterwhichtheynearlydoubleinsize.
Thedarkvarietyisdarkbrown,smallandhardandhasastrong,earthyaroma.Theyhaveathickskinandapleasant,nuttyflavourandarealsoavailabletinned.
VALTendervalpodsareeatenasafreshvegetable.Driedvalbeansarecreamy-whitetolighttanincolour.Theyhaveathick,whiteridgeononeside.Oncooking,valacquiresastrong,nuttyaromaandthetastebecomescreamywithaslight,butnotunpleasant,bitterness.
Valneedssoakinginwaterovernightasitisquitehard.Itisusuallysproutedtoenhanceitsflavour.Thebeansneedtobepeeledtoremovethethick,chewyskin,thentheyarereadytobecooked.
MOATH(MATKI)YouwillseetheseinIndianshopsas‘moth’beansbutthepronunciationis‘moat’.Thesearesmall,elongatedbeanswithabrownskinandabrownish-
yellowinteriorandtheyhaveanutty,mildlybittersweetflavourandastrong,earthysmell.Theyareoftensproutedtomakeadrysidedishorservedonbutteredtoastforbreakfast.
BUTTERBEANS(PAVTA)Butterbeansarelarge,creamy-whiteandflattish.Theyhaveamedium-thickskin.Thenameshowsthebean’smostobviouscharacteristic:abuttery,smoothtaste.Theyhaveapleasant,nuttyaroma.
Youcanbuythemdriedorincans.Cansaretime-savingthoughthebeansmaybeabitsoftanddisintegrateonfurthercooking.DriedbeansarebetterforintenseIndiancookingtechniquesorifusingcannedones,addthemattheverylastminute.
REDKIDNEYBEANS(RAJMA)ThePortuguesebroughttheredkidneybeantoIndiaalongwithotherstaplessuchastomatoandchilli.
AtthetemplededicatedtothegoddessVaishnoDeviinKashmir,amosaicofroadsiderestaurantswelcomesvisitorswithatraditionalmealofkidneybeansandrice.
Youcanbuybagsofdriedbeansorthecannedones.Ifusingdriedbeans,makesuretosoaktheminwaterfor8–10hours,discardthesoakingwaterandcookthemverywellastherawbeansaretoxic.Therecommendedtimeforboilingthemis1hour,oruntiltheycanbesquashedbetweenthethumbandafinger.Cannedbeanscanbeusedstraightawaybutitisagoodideatorinsethemfirsttogetridofthesaltandthickliquidtheyarein.Indiankitchenshavepressurecookerstocooklentilsandbeans.
DRIEDPEAS(MUTTER)ThepeaplantisbelievedtohaveoriginatedinwesternAsiaandwaslatercultivatedbytheGreeks,RomansandPersians.Thethreecommonlyusedvarietiesofpea–black,whiteandgreen–aresmall,roundandsmooth.Reconstitutedpeas(soakedandboiled)haveanearthysmellandtastequitedifferentfromfreshones.
Driedpeasmustbesoakedinwaterfor8–12hoursbeforeuse.
BLACK-EYEDBEANS(LOBIA/CHAWLI)
BLACK-EYEDBEANS(LOBIA/CHAWLI)Theselarge,oblongbeansarecreamy-white,withablack‘eye’ononeside.Theskinisquitethick.Theyhaveasubtle,nuttyaromaandarich,creamytastethatisslightlyearthy.
Oldbeanssometimesgetarusty-browntingeandbecomewrinkled,sochoosethosethatareplump,evenandunbroken.Youcanbuythemcannedbutrinsetheminasievebeforeusingthem,togetridofexcesssalt.
1Mutter;2Mung;3Matki;4Rajma;5Toor/AharDal;6Val;
7Lobia;8Mung–hulled;9UradDal;10ChanaDal;11MasoorDal;12LobiaChawli;13Pavta.
MASTERCLASS
HOWTOCOOKLENTILS
Thethreeformsoflentils–wholebeans,‘chilka’,andskinless,splitones–alltakedifferentlengthsoftimetocook.Thetimewillalsodependontheheatsource–whetheryouareusing,forexample,agashob,anelectriccookerorinductionheat.Theshapeandsizeofyourpanwillalsomakeadifference–awide,shallowpanwillencouragefasterevaporation,soyouwillneedtoaddmoreliquidwhilecooking.
SOAKINGWholebeans,whethertheyarebiglikeredkidneybeansorsmalllikemung,allbenefitfromsoaking,asthecookingtimereducesandtheycooksofter.Althoughmanyrawbeanscontainthetoxinphytohaemagglutinin,aproteinalsoknownaskidneybeanlectin,kidneybeanscontainthehighestlevels.Cookedbeansalsohaveitbutinmuchlowerandharmlesslevels.Soakingandcookingthebeansfullyensuresthatnoharmfulsideeffectsoccur.
Usingcannedbeansisaperfectlygoodalternativeandasafewaytoenjoybeansifyou’renotsureaboutcookingdriedonesorwanttosavetime.
Driedkidneybeans,especially,mustbesoakedforaminimumof6
Driedkidneybeans,especially,mustbesoakedforaminimumof6hours.Otherbeansalsocookbetterwithlongsoakingtimes.Drainawaythesoakingwater,rinseandthencookthebeans.
Amongstthesplitlentils,Ifindthatsoakingchanadalandtoordalhelpstocookthemfaster.Redlentils,mungdalandsplituraddaldonotneedtobesoaked.
RINSINGIt’sbesttorinseanddrainlentilsbeforeusing,toremovesomeofthestarch.Rinseundercoldrunningwateruntilthewaterturnsfrommilkytoalmostclear.
COOKING
1Startbyaddingdoubletheamountofwaterbyvolumetothedal.Youneednotmeasurethis;thewatershouldberoughlyacoupleofcentimetresoverthelentils.
2Bringthewatertoarapidboilthenreducetheheattoagentlebubbleandcontinuecooking.Youcancoverthepantoreducethecookingtimebutleaveitpartiallyuncoveredtostoptheliquidfromboilingover.Youmayfindthat,dependingonthesourceofheat(gas/electric/bigring/smallring)aswellasthepan,youneedtoaddmorewaterasthelentilscook.Remembertoaddonlyenoughwatertokeepthelentilssubmerged.Youcanaddhotwaterfromakettleorjustpourincoldwaterandincreasetheheattobringittotheboil.Reducetheheatagainandcontinuesimmering.
3You’llfindthatafrothyscumrisestothetopwhenlentilsandbeansarecomingtoaboil.Youcanskimthisoffwithaslottedspoon.Assoonasyouhavereducedtheheattoasimmer,thescumformationreduces.
4Lentilsare‘done’whentheyhaveplumpedupanddisintegratedintoamush.Wholebeansorpulseswillnotfallapartduringcooking–theyshouldsoftenjustenoughtofallapartonthemeresttouch,sothattheycanbeeatenwithriceorscoopedupwithapieceofroti.
Idon’taddsaltoracidicfoodsliketomatoesorlemonjuicetolentilswhentheyarecookingasIfinditmakesthelentilstakelongertocook.Iseasonthemwhentheyarestillwarm,whenIaddtherestoftheflavouring.
THERIGHTCONSISTENCYVariousregionaldalrecipeshavedifferingconsistencies.APunjabi‘DalMakhani’isquitethick,whereasasouthIndian‘rasam’issoup-like.Dalisalwayseatenwithabreadsuchasroti,orwithrice.Itisthemoist‘sauce’thatgoeswithadrycarbohydratedish.Youcandecideontheconsistency;myeverydaydalhasapouringconsistency.
Youwillfindthatadalwillthickenasitsitsaftercooking,soifyouaremakingitinadvance,youcanaddasplashofwatertobringitbacktothecorrectconsistencybeforeserving.Makesuretocheckandadjusttheseasoningdependingonhowmuchwateryou’veadded.
USINGLENTILSDIGESTIBILITY→Forpeoplenewtobeansandlentils,theycansometimesbedifficulttodigestorcauseflatulence.Startbyeatingsmallamounts.SoakingallbeansandlentilshelpstomakethemmoredigestibleandinIndia,mostbeananddalrecipeswillhavetheadditionofawonderful,powerfullysulphuric-smellingspicecalledasafoetida.Apinchofthisyellowpowder,knownas‘hing’inIndia,addsacurry-likeflavourtothedishandgreatlyimprovesdigestibility.Sproutingbeansalsohelp.
SPROUTING→Theprocessofsproutinginducesariotofbio-chemicalchangesinwhichcomplexcomponentsbreakdownintosimplersubstancesthatareeasytodigest.SproutedlegumeshavehigheramountsofvitaminC,ironandcalciumthanthosethatarenotsprouted.
SproutedbeansareanessentialpartofIndianvegetariancookery.Cooksoftenhavesomebeanssoakinginacornerofthekitchenandtheseareeatencookedwithspicesorlightlysteamed.
Beanswilltakedifferentamountsoftimetosproutdependingonavarietyoffactors,suchastemperature,light,moistureandthecontainerused.Startbysoakingthebeansinwateratroomtemperatureforatleast6hours.Drainawaythewaterthentietheminamuslinclothorputtheminasproutingjar.Iuseasmallstainless-steelboxwithholesinit–thisistraditionallyusedinIndiatostoreherbsinthefridge.Putthebeansinadarkplacetosprout.Youwillhavetorinsethemeveryday,oracoupleoftimeseachdayinveryhotweather,andputthembackintheirdrainingposition.Inacoupleofdaystheywillbegintosprout.Assoonaslittlewhiteshootsappear,theyarereadytobecooked.
MAKINGALENTILBATTER→InsomepartsofIndia,lentilsaremadeintoabatter.First,thelentilsaresoakedforatleast6hourstosoftenthem,thentheyareblitzedwithalittlewaterinablenderuntiltheyturnintoapurée.Thisismadeintofritterscalled‘vadas’,pancakescalled‘dosas’orcakescalled‘idlis’.
TarkaDal
[LENTILSWITHONIONSANDCORIANDER]
TherearemanyversionsofthisnorthIndianrecipe,asthenameliterallymeansspiced,flavouredlentils.ImakemyTarkaDalasbelowbecauseit’seasy,unfussyandtasteslightanddelicious.The‘tadka’,couldincludeavarietyofspicessuchascloves,cinnamon,fenugreekseeds,curryleavesorherbs.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING45minutes
200gredlentils,washedanddrained2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspooncuminseeds1largeonion,diced2garliccloves,finelydiced1tomato,finelychopped2freshgreenchillies,slitlengthways1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongarammasala,plusextratoserveahandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnishsaltRotis,toserve
1Putthelentilsanddoublethevolumeofwaterinaheavy-basedsaucepanandbringtotheboil,thenreducetheheatandsimmerfor30minutesuntilsoftandmushy,skimmingthescumoffthesurfacefromtimetotime.Youmayneedtoaddasplashofwaterifthedalbecomestoodry.2Meanwhile,heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheatandaddthecuminseeds.Whentheystarttocrackle,addtheonionandstirfor7–8minutesuntilgolden.Stirinthegarlicandcookfor2–3minutesuntilbrown.
3Addthetomato,chillies,turmericandgarammasalatothepan,seasonwithsaltandcookfor3–4minutesuntilsoft.Carefullypourinthecookedlentilswiththecookingliquid,stirandseasontotaste.4Servehot,sprinkledwiththecorianderandgarammasala,withrotisalongside.
Aamti
[MAHARASHTRIANLENTILSWITHASAFOETIDA]
Igrewupeatingthisdeliciousdishwithriceandghee.Ithasnoonionorgarlictooverwhelmthecleantasteofthetoordal,whichareslightlysweetandearthy.Thedalisflavouredwithfreshcorianderand‘godamasala’,whichisadark,sweetspiceblendmadebytoastingfragrantspicessuchascinnamon,clovesandcardamomwithdesiccatedcoconut,thencrushingeverythingtoafinepowder.Youcanleavethisoutforalighterdish.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plus1hoursoakingtimeCOOKING50minutes
150gtoordal,soakedinwateratroomtemperaturefor1hour,thenwashedanddrained1teaspoonvegetableoil½teaspoonmustardseeds1teaspooncuminseeds
pinchofasafoetida8freshor12driedcurryleaves2freshgreenchillies,slitlengthways½teaspoonground
turmeric1teaspoongodamasala(optional)1largetomato,choppedasmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,finelychopped,togarnishsalt
1Washthelentilsinseveralchangesofwaterthenplacetheminaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheatwithdoublethevolumeofwater.Bringtotheboilthenreducetheheatandsimmerfor40minutes,addingmorewaterasnecessary,untilsoftandmushy,skimmingthescumoffthesurfacefromtimetotime.2Heattheoilinsmallsaucepanoverahighheatandfrythemustardseedsuntiltheystarttopop,thenaddthecuminseeds,asafoetida,curryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter)andchilliesandcookfor10–15seconds.3Addtheturmeric,godamasala(ifusing)andtomato.Cookforacoupleofminutesuntilthetomatosoftens,thenstirthemixtureintothecookedlentils.
Seasonwithsaltandaddenoughwatertomakeapouringconsistency.Simmerfor1minuteandservehot,sprinkledwiththecoriander.
MASTERCLASS
DALMAKHANI–Creamy,ButteryBlackDal
ThisrichandindulgentdalisatruenorthIndianrestaurant-styledish,andisalsocalled‘kalidal’or‘maadidal’.Somerestaurantscookitinthetandoor,whichgivesitauniquesmokyflavour.Thelongeryoucooktheblackbeans,thecreamiertheybecome.‘Makhan’isbutterandthisdalcanbeflavouredwithgheeorbutter–thefinalconsistencyshouldbesoftandbuttery.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plusovernightsoakingtimeCOOKING1hour15minutes
YOUWILLNEED:1largeonion,finelychopped1tablespoonginger-garlicpastelargepinchofasafoetida1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongarammasala150gwholeuradbeans,soakedinwaterovernight,rinsedanddrained2tablespoons
doublecream2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshcorianderleaves2tablespoonsghee,butteror
vegetableoil2garliccloves,finelychopped2largetomatoes,choppedsaltboiledrice,ParathasorNaans,toserve
1Putalltheingredientsfromtheoniontothebeansinaheavy-basedpanwithenoughwatertocoverthemixtureby2.5cm,andbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor1hourormore,untilthebeansarewellcooked,creamyandalmostdissolving,addingwaterasnecessary,tokeep
thebeanscovered.
2Removefromtheheat,stirinsalttoseason,thecreamandcorianderleaves.
3Heattheghee,butteroroilinafryingpanoverahighheatandfrythegarlicfor1minuteuntilgoldenbrown,thenaddthetomatoesandfryforafewminutesuntilsoft.Stirthismixtureintothelentils.
4Servehotwithrice,parathasornaan.
PoonduRasam
[LIGHTLENTILSOUPWITHGARLIC]
Rasamisacloserelativeofsambharbutitisthinnerandisthereforeoftenservedasaspicysoup.Itisalsoeatenwithboiledrice,asasecondcourseafterriceandsambhar.Itisoftenmadebyaddingextrawatertothelentilswhenmakingsambhar,strainingthis,thenfryingspicesinoilandpouringthisintothelentils.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plus15minutessoakingtimeCOOKING50minutes
4tablespoonstoordal,soakedinwateratroomtemperaturefor15minutesthenwashedanddrained3teaspoonstamarindpulporshop-boughttamarindpaste2tablespoonsvegetableoil
½teaspoonblackmustardseeds½teaspooncuminseedslargepinchofasafoetida10freshor15driedcurryleaves3garliccloves,peeledandbruised1teaspoonsambhar
powder½teaspooncrushedblackpeppercorns1teaspoongroundturmeric2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshcorianderleaves,togarnishsaltboiledrice,toserve
1Placethelentilsinaheavy-basedsaucepanwith750mlwater,bringtotheboil,thenreducetheheatandsimmerfor45minutesuntilmushy,skimmingthescumoffthesurfacefromtimetotime.Seasonwithsaltandstirtodissolve.Whenthelentilsarecooked,passthemthroughasieveintoacleanpan,reservingtheliquidanddiscardingthecontentsofthesieve.Stirinthetamarind.2Heattheoilinasmallpanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheybegintocrackle,addthecumin,asafoetida,curryleavesandgarliccloves.Fryfor1minute,thenstirinthesambharpowder,pepperandturmeric.3Pourthelentilliquidintothepan,bringtotheboilthenremovefromtheheat,sprinklewiththefreshcorianderandservehotwithrice.
PoosanikaiSambhar
[SOUTHINDIANLENTILSWITHPUMPKIN]
ThisisservedwiththefirsthelpingofriceinasouthIndianmeal.Threeservingsaretraditionalineverymeal:thefirstwithathicksambhar,thesecondwithathin‘rasam’andthethirdwithyogurt.Youcanaddanyfirmvegetable–aubergine,gourds,carrots,beansandbeetrootaretypical.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plus30minutessoakingtimeCOOKING1hour15minutes
200gtoordal,soakedinwateratroomtemperaturefor30minutesthenwashedanddrained
100gpumpkin,deseededandcutinto2.5cmcubes(skinlefton)2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspoonblackmustardseeds1teaspooncuminseeds12freshor15driedcurryleaveslargepinchofasafoetida3tablespoonstamarindpulporshop-boughttamarindpaste1teaspoonsambharpowder½teaspoongroundturmeric2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshcorianderleaves,togarnishsaltboiledrice,toserve
1Putthelentilsanddoublethevolumeofwaterinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheatandbringtotheboil,thenreducetheheatandsimmerfor50minutes,skimmingoffthescumthatrisestothetopandaddingmorewaterasnecessary,topreventthelentilsfromdryingout.Whenalmostcompletelysoft,addthepumpkinandsimmerfor15minutesuntilcooked.Thelentilscancontinuecookingwiththepumpkin–theyaremeanttobemushy.2Seasonwithsalt,mix,removefromtheheatandsetaside.
3Warmtheoilinalargesaucepanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheystarttocrackle,addthecuminseeds,curryleavesandasafoetida.Addthetamarindpulp.Cookoveralowheatfor4–5minutesuntilthickandbubbly,addingasplashofwatersothatthemixturedoesnotdryout.4Addthesambharpowderandturmericandcookfor1minute,thenpourthelentilsintothespicemixtureandstir.Addabitofwaterifnecessarytogetapouringconsistency.Sprinklewiththecorianderandservehotwithrice.
BengaliCholarDal
[CHANADALWITHRAISINS]
ThisisafestivedalmadeatfeastsoronspecialoccasionssuchastheHinduPujofestivalinBengalwhentheGoddessDurgaishonouredfor9daysandnights.Theconsistencyshouldbefairlythickanditiseatenwithfriedpooris.
Serves4PREPARATION→20minutes,plus1hoursoakingtimeCOOKING1hour
200gsplitgramlentils(chanadal),soakedinwateratroomtemperaturefor1hourthendrained
1teaspoongroundturmeric3tablespoonsvegetableoil2tablespoonspanchphoron4driedredchillies,deseededandcrumbled2bayleavesfewslicesofdriedorfreshcoconut2teaspoonsraisinssaltPooris,toserve
1Placethelentilsinaheavy-basedsaucepanwithabout450mlboilinghotwaterandsimmerfor1houruntilsoftandmushy,skimmingthescumoffthesurfacefromtimetotime.Addmorewaterasnecessary,togetathickconsistency.2Addtheturmeric,seasonwithsaltandmixwell.Removefromtheheat.3Heattheoilinasmallfryingpanoverahighheatthenaddthepanchphoron.Whenitcrackles,addtheredchillies,bayleaves,coconutandraisins.Reducetheheatandcookforafewseconds,thenseasontotaste.4Pourtheoilandthespicesoverthelentils,stir,bringtotheboilonceandservehotwithpooris.
GujaratiDal
[SWEETANDSOURLENTILS]
Ilovethedepthofflavourinthistangy,sweetdal,whichiseatenwithplainrice.Sometimesvegetablessuchasyamareaddedbutevenonitsown,itisatreat.Traditionally,toordalwillbeusedbutyoucanuseredormungdalforaspeedierversion.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plus30minutessoakingtimeCOOKING1hour
150gtoordal,soakedinhotwaterfor30minutes,thenwashedanddrained½teaspoongroundturmeric
4kokumpetalsor3tablespoonstamarindpulp2freshgreenchillies,slitlengthways2tablespoonsgratedjaggeryorsoftbrownsugar2
tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspoonblackmustardseeds1teaspooncuminseedslargepinchofasafoetida½teaspoonfenugreekseedspinchoffreshordriedcurryleavesasmallsprigoffreshcorianderleaves,finelychopped,to
garnishsaltboiledrice,toserve
1Placethelentilsinaheavy-basedsaucepanwithdoublethevolumeofwaterandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerforatleast40minutesuntilsoftandmushy,skimmingthescumoffthesurfacefromtimetotime.2Addtheturmeric,kokumortamarindpulp,greenchillies,jaggeryandsalttoseason.Simmerforafurther10minutesoruntilthelentilsarecompletelycooked.Removefromtheheat.3Heattheoilinasmallpanoverahighheat,thentipinthemustardseeds.Whentheybegintocrackle,addthecuminseeds,asafoetida,fenugreekseedsandcurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter).Cookfor1minute,thenremovefromtheheatandpourtheoilandspicesintothelentilmixture.
4Stirwell,seasontotaste,sprinklewiththefreshcorianderandservehotwithrice.
MatkichiUsal
[STIR-FRIEDMOTHSPROUTS]
SproutedbeansareacommonadditiontoaMaharashtrianorGujaratimealandareamustinathalifeast,wheremanysmalldishesfromthisregionareservedtogether.Duringtheprocessofsprouting,proteinsbreakdownintoseparateaminoacidsandcomplexcarbohydratesbreakdownintosimplercarbohydratesthatareeasiertodigest(seeUsingLentils).ThebeanstartstoproducenutrientssuchasB-groupvitamins,vitaminCandironinpreparationforbecomingafullplant,thusmakingsproutsahealthyadditiontoamainmealoradeliciousbreakfastwithasliceoftoast.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plus5hourssoakingtimeandovernightsproutingtimeCOOKING35minutes
150gdriedmothbeans,sprouted(seeUsingLentils)1tablespoonvegetableoil½teaspoonblackmustardseeds½teaspooncuminseeds8freshor10driedcurryleaves1smallfreshgreenchilli,slitlengthways,seedsleftin1
mediumonion,finelychopped¼teaspoongroundturmeric2tablespoonsfreshlygratedcoconutordesiccatedcoconut,togarnish1tablespoon
choppedfreshcorianderleaves,togarnish1tablespoonlemonjuicesalt
1Refreshthesproutedbeansincoldwaterandsetaside.2Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheystarttopop,addthecuminseeds,curryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter)andthegreenchilli.Whentheseedssizzle,addtheonionandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft.3Tipinthesproutedbeans,turmericandsalttoseason.Addabout3tablespoonsofwaterandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheat,coverandcookforabout25minutesuntilthebeansaresoftbutfirm,addingmorewaterifthepan
driesout.Thefinaldishshouldbedry.Seasontotasteandfinishoffbysprinklingcoconut,corianderandlemonjuiceontop.Servewarm.
BhunaLobia
[STIR-FRIEDBLACK-EYEDBEANS]
Black-eyedbeansworkverywellwithtomatoesandonions,whichseemtobringouttheirnuttysweetnessasinthisnorthIndianrecipe.Theyarerichinsolublefibre,whichhelpseliminatecholesterolfromthebody.Black-eyedbeansareeatenalloverIndia–myKonkanirelativesfromKarnatakacookthemwithcoconutintoacreamycurrywhereasinMaharashtra,theyarestir-friedtomakeasemi-drydishcalled‘usal’.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plusovernightsoakingtime(optional)COOKING1hour15minutes,or25minutesifusingcannedbeans
2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspooncuminseedslargepinchofasafoetida1mediumonion,thinlysliced1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste150gdriedblack-eyedbeans,soakedinwaterovernightanddrainedor1x400gcan,
drainedandrinsed½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder½teaspoongroundturmeric2largeripetomatoes,chopped1teaspoongarammasala
½teaspooncastersugarasmallsprigoffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnishsalt
1Heattheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat,thenaddthecuminseedsandfryuntiltheydarken.Addtheasafoetida,fryforafewsecondsthenaddtheonionandstir-fryfor8–10minutesuntilgolden.2Addtheginger-garlicpasteandmixwell.Cookfor1–2minutes,thentipinthebeans(driedandsoaked,ortinned),sprinkleinthechillipowderandturmericandfryfor1minute,thenmixinthetomatoes,garammasala,sugarandsalttoseason.Addalittlewater,coverandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor1houruntildone(orjust3–4minutesifusingtinnedbeans).Thebeansshouldretaintheirshape.Mashafewtoaddthicknesstothesauceandseasontotaste.
3Servehot,garnishedwiththecoriander.
ValacheBirde
[SWEETVALBEANS]
Theseslightlybitterbeansteamupwellwithjaggeryandmustardseeds.Theycanbeserveddryasasidedishorinathinsaucetobeeatenwithrotis.Thethickskinswillpeelawayeasilyoncethebeanshavebeensoaked.
Serves4PREPARATION→20minutes,plus8hourssoakingandovernightsproutingtimeCOOKING35minutes
1tablespoonvegetableoil1teaspoonblackmustardseeds1teaspooncuminseedslargepinchofasafoetida10freshor15driedcurryleaves200gvalbeans,soakedfor8hours,sproutedovernight(see
UsingLentils)andskinned1teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongroundcoriander2tablespoonsgratedjaggeryorsoftbrownsugar4kokumpetalsor2teaspoonslemonjuice2tablespoonschoppedfreshcorianderleavessalt
1Heattheoilinapanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheybegintopopaddthecuminseeds,asafoetidaandcurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter).Tipintheskinnedbeansandthegroundspices,thenaddthejaggeryorsugar,salttoseasonandenoughwatertocoverthemixture.Stirinthekokumorlemonjuice.2Bringtotheboilthenreducetheheat,coverandsimmerfor30minutesuntilthebeansaretender,addingmorewaterasnecessarytokeepthebeanssubmerged.Ifyouwantadrydish,uncoverthepanandboilofftheliquidoverahighheat.Seasontotaste,stirinthecorianderleavesandservehot.
Cholay
[CURRIEDCHICKPEAS]
Punjabicookingisknowntobeheartyandboldflavoursabound.Thestatehashadalargelyagriculturalpopulationwhohaveneededbigbreakfastsandmealstogetthroughlongdaysworkingonfarms,especiallythroughthecoldwinters.ThisisoneofPunjab’sfavouriterecipes,ofteneatenwithfriedbreadcalled‘bhatura’atbreakfast,orasamainmeal,andeachfamilyhastheirownversion.Youcanusedriedchickpeasbutyou’llneedtosoakthemovernightandcookthemforacoupleofhoursuntiltheyaresoft.Therecipeusesdried,powderedpomegranateseeds(anardanapowder)asasouringagent–ifyoucan’tfindtheseuselemonjuiceinstead.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING25minutes
1tablespoonstrongtealeavesorateabagofeverydayorbreakfasttea2.5cmpieceofcinnamonstick4greencardamompods,bruised2blackcardamompods,bruised5cloves
2x400gcansofchickpeas,drainedandrinsedor150gdriedchickpeas,soakedinwaterovernight1teaspoongroundturmeric
½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongroundcoriander1teaspoonanardanapowderor2tablespoonslemonjuice1teaspoonamchoor(dried
mangopowder)or1tablespoonlemonjuice2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspooncuminseeds2tablespoonsginger-garlicpaste2freshgreenchillies,slitlengthwaysasmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,finely
chopped,togarnishsalt
1Tiethetealeaves,cinnamon,bothcardamomsandclovesinapieceofmuslintomakeabouquetgarni.Immerseitinapanwith250mlwaterandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor7–8minutestoextractthecolourandflavourofthebouquetgarni’scontents.Ifusingdried,soakedchickpeas,puttheminenoughwatertocoverthem,alongwiththebouquetgarniandcookfora
coupleofhours,addingmorewaterasnecessarytokeepthechickpeassubmergeduntilsoft.Ifusingcannedchickpeas,placetheminapan,pourintheliquidfromStep1(discardingthebouquetgarni)andbringtotheboil.Seasonwithsaltandsprinklethegroundspicesontop.2Heattheoilinthepanoverahighheat,addthecuminseedsandfryfor10secondsuntiltheydarken,thenaddtheginger-garlicpasteandchilliesandfryfor30seconds.Pourthisspicedoiloverthechickpeas.Reducetheheatandcookfor4–5minutes,stirring,untilthesauceisthickanddark.3Seasontotasteandservehot,garnishedwiththecoriander.
RajmaTamater
[REDKIDNEYBEANSWITHTOMATOES]
RedkidneybeansarepopularinnorthIndia,especiallyinJammuwheresomeofthebestvarietiesgrow.Pairedwithplainrice,‘rajma’isacomfortmealandneedsonlyabowlofyogurtservedontheside.Ifusingdriedkidneybeans,soakandcookthem,followingthemethod.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING20minutes
3tablespoonsvegetableoil2mediumonions,sliced2tablespoonsginger-garlicpaste2tablespoonstomatopurée1teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongroundcoriander1x400gcanofredkidneybeans,drainedandrinsedor150gdriedkidneybeans,soaked,
drainedandcooked2tablespoonschoppedfreshcorianderleaves,togarnishsaltboiledrice,toserve
1Heathalftheoilinaheavy-basedpanoverahighheat,addtheonionsandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft.2Addtheginger-garlicpasteandthetomatopuréeandfryfor2minutesuntilmushy.3Removefromtheheatandleavetocoolslightly,thentransferthemixturetoablender,pourinenoughwatertojustcoverthemixtureandblitzuntilsmooth.Setaside.Thisisthecurrypaste.4Heattheremainingoilinthepanoveramediumheatandaddthegroundspices.Whentheysizzle,addasplashofwaterandcookfor1–2minutesuntil
thewaterevaporates,leavingspicedoilinthepan.Stirinthebeans.5Addthecurrypasteandsalttoseasonandmixwell.Pourabout150mlwaterintotheblender,rinseitandpourthisintothecurry.Bringtotheboil,reducetheheat,coverandcookforabout5minutesuntilwellblended.6Seasontotasteandservehot,garnishedwiththecorianderandricetoserve.
ChanyachiAmti
[COASTALBLACKCHICKPEACURRY]
ThisfragrantcurryismadeinMumbaieachyearfortheHinduGaneshfestivalaroundAugust/September.Itisaccompaniedbyfriedrice-flourbreadcalledvadebutgoesequallywellwithanybreadorrice.
Serves4PREPARATION→20minutes,plusovernightsoakingtime(ifusingdriedchickpeas)COOKING1hour30minutesor30minutesifusingcannedchickpeas
150gdriedblackchickpeas,soakedinwaterovernightor1x400gcanofblackorwhitechickpeas,drainedandrinsed1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongroundturmeric2tomatoes,chopped
4kokumpetalsor2teaspoonslemonjuice2tablespoonsvegetableoil4cloves10blackpeppercorns1teaspooncorianderseeds4tablespoonsfreshlygratedordesiccatedcoconut1teaspoon
blackmustardseeds1teaspooncuminseedssaltboiledrice,Poorisorpoppadums,toserve
1Drainthesoakedchickpeasandboilthemindoublethevolumeofwaterfor1hourorsountilsoftandyoucansquashonebetweenyourfingers.Thereshouldstillbeenoughwatertocoverthechickpeasinthepan.Stirinthegroundspices,salttoseason,tomatoesandkokumorlemonjuiceandcookforacoupleofminutes.Ifusingcannedchickpeas,bringthemtotheboilwithsomewaterandaddtheseflavourings.2Meanwhile,makethecurrypaste.Heathalftheoilinapanoverahighheatandaddthecloves,peppercornsandcorianderseeds.Whentheysizzle,addthecoconutandfryfor4–5minutesuntilbrown.Transferthismixturetoablenderwithenoughwatertojustcoverthemixtureandblitztoafinepaste.Addthepastetothechickpeas,bringtotheboil,thenremovefromtheheatandseasontotaste.3Heattheremainingoilinapanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseedsand
cuminseeds.Whentheybegintopop,pourtheoilandseedsoverthecurryandmixwell.Servehotwithrice,poorisorpoppadums.
VellarikkaKootu
[CUCUMBERANDLENTILSTEW]
A‘kootu’isasouthIndianvegetableandlentilcombinationdishwithaconsistencythatislikeathickporridge.Itiseatenwithrice,andsometimesgheeisaddedintothemixforextraflavour.Youcansubstitutethecucumberwithanyfirmvegetablesuchascarrot,courgetteorturnip.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING1hour
200gsplit,skinnedmungdal,washedanddrained1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoonsambharpowder½cucumber,peeledandcutintobite-sizedchunks1tablespoonvegetableoilorghee1teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseedspinchoffreshordriedcurryleaves1smallonion,
finelydicedsaltboiledrice,toserve
1Putthemungdalintoapanwithdoublethevolumeofwaterandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor40minutes,skimmingthescumoffthesurfacefromtimetotime,untilverysoft.2Stirintheturmericandsambharpowderthenaddthecucumber.Seasonwithsalt,andcookforafurther7–8minutestosoftenthecucumber.3Heattheoilorgheeinasmallfryingpanoverahighheat,thenaddthemustardseeds.Assoonastheybegintopop,sprinkleinthecurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter)andaddtheonion.Fryfor5–6minutesuntilverysoft,thenstirthismixtureintothelentils.Servehotwithrice.
SabutMasoorKiDal
[SPICEDBROWNLENTILS]
Sproutedorunsproutedbrownlentilscanbeusedforthisdal.Redlentils,whichareactuallysplitbrownlentils,canalsobeused,butwholelentilsaddadeliciouschewinesstothedish.Makesureyoucookthelentilsuntiltheyareverysoftbutstillholdtheirshape.Theyshouldbreakdownenoughtomakeacreamyhomogeniseddishratherthanawaterysoupwithlentilssittingatthebottom!
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plus2hourssoakingtimeCOOKING1hour15minutes
200gbrownlentils,soakedinwaterfor2hoursanddrained2tablespoonsvegetableoil1largeredonion,thinlysliced2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste1freshgreenchilli,finelydiced2freshtomatoes,finelychopped1teaspoonground
turmeric1teaspoongarammasala2tablespoonschoppedfreshcorianderleaves,togarnishsalt
1Placethelentilsinapanwithdoublethevolumeofwater,bringtotheboilandcookfor1houroruntiltheyaremushy,skimmingthescumoffthesurfacefromtimetotime.Keeptoppingupthewaterifthelentilsbecometoodry.2Heattheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat,addtheonionandfryfor8–10minutesuntilgolden,thenaddtheginger-garlicpasteandchillitothepanandstirforafewseconds.Tipinthetomatoesandthegroundspicesandcookfor3–4minutesuntilsoft.3Seasonwithsaltandstirinthecookedlentils.Servehot,sprinkledwiththecoriander.
PalakDal
[LENTILSWITHSPINACH]
ThissimplefragrantdalismadealloverIndiawithafewvariations.InMaharashtraitmayhaveafewshavingsoflocallygrownfreshcoconutsprinkledontop,andinKarnatakaitwouldhaveafewcurryleavesaddedin.Itcanbeeatenwithrotisorriceasalightmeal.Youcoulduseavarietyofgreensinsteadofspinach–trykaleorchard.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING40minutes
200gsplitskinnedmungdal,washedanddrained3generoushandfulsoffreshspinach,washed,drainedandfinelychopped2tablespoonsvegetableoil
1teaspoonblackmustardseeds1teaspooncuminseeds1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste2freshgreenchillies,finelychopped1teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoonfinelygroundblackpepperjuiceof½lemonsaltRotisorboiledrice,toserve
1Putthemungdalintoaheavy-basedsaucepanwithdoublethevolumeofwater.Bringtotheboil,reducetheheatandsimmerforabout30minutesuntilthelentilsaremushy,skimmingthescumoffthesurfacefromtimetotime.2Addthespinachtothelentilsandletitwilt.3Heattheoilinasmallsaucepanoverahighheat.Addthemustardseeds.Whentheystarttopop,addthecuminseeds,thenstirintheginger-garlicpasteandgreenchillies.Addtheturmericandpepper,stirthisintothecookedlentilsandsimmerforafurtherminute.Removefromheat.Squeezeinthelemonjuice,seasonwithsaltandservehotwithrotisorricealongside.
BootorDali
[CHANADALWITHONIONANDSPICES]
IhadthislovelydalatanAssamesefriend’shome.Shehadcombinedtwolentilstogettherightthickconsistencythatcouldbescoopedupinapooriorfriedbread.Thedalwillthickenasitcoolsaftercookingsofeelfreetoadjustthefinalconsistencybyaddingasmuch–orno–water,asyouprefer.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plus1hoursoakingtimeCOOKING1hour
2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspooncuminseeds2bayleaves1onion,finelydiced2freshgreenchillies,slitlengthways1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste150gsplitgramlentils(chanadal),soakedinhotwaterfor1hourthenwashedanddrained
100gredlentils,washedanddrained1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongarammasala
1tablespoongratedjaggeryorsoftbrownsugarsalt
1Heattheoilinasaucepanoverahighheatandaddthecuminseedsandbayleaves.Whentheysizzleandchangecolour,addtheonionandgreenchillies.Cookfor4–5minutesuntiltheonionsbegintosoftenandchangecolour.2Stirintheginger-garlicpastethenaddboththelentils.Fryforacoupleofminutes,thensprinkleintheturmeric.Pourinwateruptoacoupleofcentimetresabovethelentilsandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor50minutesoruntilthelentilshavebecomesoftandmushy,skimmingthescumoffthesurfacefromtimetotime.3Mixinthegarammasalaandjaggeryorsugar,seasonwithsaltandbringtotheboiloncemore.Removefromtheheatandservehot.
Dalitoy
[LENTILSWITHASAFOETIDA]
GrowingupasachildinBombay,thiswasoneofthemostcomfortingmealsinmyaunt’shome.Servedwithplainriceandapapad(poppadum),itissomethingthatIstilllongforwhentiredorhungry.ThisdalfromtheKonkanicommunityhasapowerfulfragranceofasafoetidaandcurryleaves.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plus30minutessoakingtimeCOOKING1hour
200gtoordal,soakedinwateratroomtemperaturefor30minutes,thenwashedanddrained
1freshgreenchilli,slitlengthways1tablespooncoconutoilorvegetableoil1teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseeds¼teaspoonasafoetida2driedwholeredchillieslargepinchoffreshordriedcurryleaves½teaspoongroundturmericsaltboiledriceandpapad,toserve
1Putthetoordalandgreenchilliinapanwithdoublethevolumeofwater.Bringtotheboilthenreducetheheatandsimmerfor50minutes,skimmingthescumoffthesurfacefromtimetotime,untilverysoft.Youcanreducethecookingtimebysoakingthelentilsforlonger,evenovernight.2Heattheoilinasmallfryingpanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheybegintopop,addtheasafoetida,redchillies,curryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter)andturmeric.3Whenthismixturesizzles,stiritintothelentils.Seasonwithsaltandservehotwithriceandapapad.
BhajaMugerDal
[FRIEDMUNGLENTILS]
ABengalihouseholdisafish-andmeat-lovingonebutacoupleofdayseachweek,themenubecomesvegetarian,withnotevenonionorgarlicaddedtothefood,togivethedigestionarestfromheavyandstronglyflavouredfoods.Thisdalwithriceandafewvegetablefrittersbecomesasimplefeast.Thelentilsarefirstfried,togiveanuttytastetothedal.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING50minutes
200gsplitskinnedmungdal1tablespoonvegetableoil1smallcinnamonstick3greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded3cloves
2bayleaves2driedwholeredchillies1teaspooncuminseeds2.5cmpieceoffreshrootginger,scraped
andgrated½teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspooncastersugar1tablespoonghee,melted(optional)salt
1Heataheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheatanddry-toastthemungdalfor7–8minutesuntiltheyturngoldenbrown.2Pourinenoughwatertocoverthelentilsandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor30minutesuntiltheyaresoft,addingmorewaterasnecessary,topreventthemfromdryingout.3Heattheoilinasmallfryingpanoverahighheatandaddthecinnamonstick,crushedcardamom,cloves,bayleavesandchillies.Fryuntilthespicessizzle,changecolourandbecomearomatic,thentipinthecuminseedsandafterafewseconds,addthegingerandturmeric.Cookforafewsecondsandstirthefriedspicesintothecookedlentils.4Seasonwithsalt,stirinthesugar,andpourthemeltedgheeoverthetop,ifusing.
SindhiDal
[TANGYLENTILS]
ThisisapopularSindhibreakfastservedwithcrispbreadcalledpakwan,althoughitisstillasdeliciouswithanybread.IfirstatethisasachildinBombay,atafriend’seighthbirthdayparty.Ittastedwonderfulandmadealovelychangefromtheusualsandwichesandcrisps!
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plus2hourssoakingtimeCOOKING1hour
200gsplitgramlentils(chanadal),soakedinwaterfor2hours,thenwashedanddrained½teaspoongroundturmeric1tablespoontamarindpulporshop-boughttamarindpaste1tablespoongheeorvegetableoil1teaspoongarammasala
1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongroundcumin1teaspoonamchoor(driedmangopowder)saltbread,toserve
1Putthelentilsinaheavy-basedsaucepanwithdoublethevolumeofwaterandbringtotheboil.Stirintheturmeric,reducetheheat,partiallycoverthepanandsimmerfor45minutes,skimmingthescumoffthesurfacefromtimetotime,untilthelentilsareverysoft.Youwillneedtokeeptoppingupthewaterasthedalcooksandthickens.Stirinthetamarindpulpandseasonwithsalt.2Heatthegheeoroilinasmallpanoverahighheat.Addallthegroundspices.Whentheybegintosizzle,addasplashofwatertocookthemwithoutburning.Whenthewaterevaporates,pourthespicesandoiloverthecookedlentils,stirandservehotwithbread.
PanchmelDal
[FIVE-LENTILDAL]
‘Panch’is‘five’inseveralIndianlanguages,‘mel’isa‘mix’andthedalisalsocalled‘panchratna’orfive-jewelled.Itissometimeseatenwitharichfriedbreadcalled‘bati’butgoeswellwithriceorrotiforalightermeal.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plusovernightsoakingtimeCOOKING1hour
200gmixedlentils,suchaschanadal,toordal,wholegreenmungbeans,skinlessuraddal,redlentils,soakedinwaterovernightatroomtemperature,thenwashedanddrained2tablespoonsvegetableoilorghee1teaspooncuminseeds
largepinchofasafoetida2driedwholeredchillies4greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded1smallcinnamonstick
3cloves1teaspoongratedfreshrootginger1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoonmedium-hot
redchillipowder2tomatoes,finelydicedasmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,finelychopped,togarnishsaltRotisorboiledrice,toserve
1Putthelentilsinasaucepanalongwithdoublethevolumeofwater.Bringtotheboil,reducetheheatandsimmer,partiallycovered,forabout50minutesuntilsoftandmushy,skimmingthescumoffthesurfacefromtimetotime.Addwaterasnecessarytokeepthelentilssubmerged.2Heattheoilorgheeinafryingpanoverahighheatandaddthecuminseeds,asafoetida,driedchillies,cardamomseeds,cinnamonandcloves.3Whenthespicesstarttosizzleandchangecolour,stirintheginger,turmericandchillipowder.Cookforafewseconds,thenmixinthetomatoesandseasonwithsalt.Addasplashofwaterandcookfor3–4minutesuntiltheoilbeginstoseparatearoundtheedges.4Pourthespicemixintothecookedlentilsandheatthrough.Adjusttheseasoningandconsistencytotaste.Youshouldbeabletopourthedal.Sprinklewiththefreshcorianderandservehotwithriceorrotis.
AlooGobiPalakKiSubziBhindiKiSubziBhindiKurkureGucchiKormaBanarasiAlooDoodhiChanaKarelaMasalaBagareBainganBharelaRinganNuShakAlooMethiMuttakosThoranVangeFryNavratanKormaKumraCharchariKandaMirchiChaZunkaGodeBatateBatatyaTalasaniSindhiKadhiBeansPoriyalVegetableSaaguMakkaiSimlaMirchKiSubjiFlowerchaRassaKobiVatanaNuShakAlooPostoSaagAlooOondhiyoon
AVEGETABLEMARKETININDIAISACOLOURFUL,BUSTLING,BUSYPLACE.THEREAREFARMERS’MARKETSINEVERYLOCALITYOFBIGCITIESANDINTOWNORVILLAGE
SQUARES.INDIANSEATALOTOFVEGETABLESONADAILYBASISANDHAVEAHUGEVARIETYTOCHOOSEFROM.
AncientIndianvegetablesincludelotusrootandcucumber,bothmentionedintheRigveda,areligioustextdatingbacktoc.1500–1200BC.ItisoftenseeninHindutextsthatveryesotericconceptsareexplainedthrougheverydayobjectsoroccurrencestomakethemeasiertounderstand.AhymntothegodShivafromthistextisinuseeventoday–itlikenstheliberationfromdeathtotheseparationofthecucumberfromthecreeper.
After1500ADnewvegetablescametoIndiathroughforeigntradeandconquest.ThePortuguesebroughtpotatoes,tomatoes,chillies,cashews,pumpkinsandlycheeswhereastheBritisharecreditedwithintroducingIndiatocauliflowersandcabbages.
NativeauberginescalledbrinjalsprobablyspreadtotheMediterraneanthroughArabtraders.Althoughearlyaubergineswerequitebitter,today’sharvestsarenot,asthebitternesshasbeenbredout.
AvegetablemarketinIndiaisacolourful,bustling,busyplace.Therearefarmers’marketsineverylocalityofbigcitiesandintownorvillagesquares.Indianseatalotofvegetablesonadailybasisandhaveahugevarietytochoosefrom,suchassnakegourdandclusterbeans.TherepertoireofIndianvegetariancookingisendless!
WheneverIaminMumbai,Ialwaysmakeapointofwanderingthroughmylocalfarmers’markets–myfavouriteistheoneatGrantRoadwhereIhavebeenshoppingforsomanyyearsthatIknowseveralofthefarmerspersonally.Somestallsareownedbypeoplewhobuyvegetablessuchaspotatoes,beans,carrots,gourdsorcabbagesfromthefarmersorfromwholesalemarkets.OftenthefarmersthemselvestravelinfromplacessuchasVasai,justoutsideMumbai,withsmallstocksofunusualfarmvegetablesandonehastogotothemarketearlytobeabletofindtreasuressuchasbreadfruit,jackfruitseeds,bananaflower,wildfenugreekandcolocasialeaves.
Breadfruitisagrapefruit-sizedgreenvegetablewithdensecream-colouredfleshthatgrowsonlargetrees.ItispeeledanddicedtomakecurriesandfrittersinsouthernandcoastalIndiawhereitgrows.Similarinappearancebutthree
insouthernandcoastalIndiawhereitgrows.Similarinappearancebutthreetimesthesizeofabreadfruitisthestronglyaromaticjackfruit,whichwhenripeiseatenasafruitbutwhentenderisusedavegetable.Thelargeseedsareprizedfortheirflourytexturebutalsobecausetheyareasourceofprotein,fibreandvitaminB.Bananaflowersaretheedibleblossomsofthebananatree.Thedarkpurpleouterhusksarestrippedawaytorevealtender,yellowbudsthatareusedforcooking.WildfenugreekleavesaresmallerthanthebunchesoffenugreekweseeinWesternshops.Theyaremorepowerfulinaromaandslightlymorebitterintaste,aqualityforwhichtheyareprized.Thecolocasiaplantiseatenfromroottoleaf.Thetubersarestarchy,likepotatoes,andthelargeleavesarearomaticandstuffedwithspicedgramflourtomakeasteamedsnackcalled‘patrel’.
Indiastilllargelyeatsseasonally.Peoplelookforwardtowintercarrotsandsummermangoes.ItisatreattoeataperfectlyripeAlphonsomangoinMayandenjoyafeastofGujarati‘oondhiyoon’burstingwithwintervegetablessuchaspurpleyamandcarrots.
Chillies
Giventhattheyareusedinalmosteverysavouryrecipefromanypartofthecountry,itissurprisingthatuntilafewhundredyearsago,chillieswereunknowninIndia.TheywerefirstintroducedbythePortugueseattheendofthefifteenthcentury.Commercially,chillies,whicharefruitsofthecapsicumspecies,areclassifiedontheircolour,shapeandpungency,andoverahundredvarietiesaregrownandeaten.Chillieshaveastrong,smartingaromaandtheirtasterangesfrommildtodynamite.Thelevelofheatisdependentontheamountofcapsaicinpresentintheseeds,veinsandskinofthechilliesandisnotdiminishedbycooking,storingorfreezing.Thisiswhy,generally,thesmallerthechilli,andthemoreconcentratedtheseedsandveins,thehotteritis.
Chilliesbringheataswellasfragrancetoadish.ManyofIndia’shottestplaces,suchasRajasthanandAndhraPradesh,haveafierycuisinebecausechilliesactuallycooldownthebodyinhotweather.Thecapsaicindilatesbloodvesselstoincreasecirculationandencourageperspiration.However,ifyoueverbiteintoachilliunexpectedly,don’treachforajugofwater–capsaicinisinsolubleinwater.Dairyproductshavethepowertoneutralisecapsaicinsotryyogurtormilktocalmthefire.
Chilliesareavailablefresh,dried,powdered,flaked,inoil,insauce,bottledandpickled.
Howtobuychillies→Whenbuyingfreshchillies,lookforcrisp,unwrinkledonesthatareglossyandgreen.Freshredchillies(whichareripegreenones)areusuallydriedforbetterstorageandtointensifytheircolour.Freshgreenchilliesareusedwhenonewantsafresher‘green’chilliflavourandtosupplementthegreencolourofacurry.Redchillies,driedaswellaspowdered,areusedwhenonewantsaredorbrowncolourinthesauceaswellasadeeper,slightlysmokyflavour.
ThepungencycanvaryfromthemoderateKashmirchilliandsomedriedsouthIndianvarietiessuchasTomatochilliesandByadagichilliesthatgivemorecolourthanheat,tothefierybird’s-eyechilliesfromthenorth-eastandthedriedGunturchillieswhichhaveadarkred,thickskinandincrediblefirepower.
Aswithallgroundspices,chillipowderlosesitsstrengthandsparkleafterafewmonths.Wholedriedchillieswillkeepforuptoayearifstoredinadry,darkplace.
Howtopreparechillies→Allchilliesneedtobetreatedwithrespect.Thecapsaicininchilliesishighlyirritatingtoskin,sobecarefulwhenpreparingthem.Trytoavoidcontactwiththeinsideofthefruitandwashhandswithsoapandwaterimmediatelyafteruse.
1Togetmoreflavourthanheat,holdachilliatthestalkandrunyourknifedownitslength.Addthewholechillitothepan.Youcanseethechilliandpullitoutatanypointduringcooking.2Forahottercurry,finelychopthechilliandaddthewholelotin,seedsandall.Ifyoudon’twanttoomuchheatbuttherecipeasksfordicedchillies,forexampleinmeatballs,reducethenumberofchilliesused–oneinplaceoftwoorhalfinplaceofone.Idon’tbotherscrapingtheseedsoutofchillies!3Tomakeaquickchillipaste,roughlychopachilliandcrushitinapestleandmortarwithatinyamountofsalt.4Topreparedriedchillies,removethestemsandshakeouttheseeds.Theycanbetornintobits,soakedinwarmwaterorboiledinwaterfor5–6minutesandgroundtoapasteforcurriesandsauces.Theseedsareharderthaninfreshchilliesandcansometimesrefusetosoftenevenoncooking.Iliketoshakeouttheseedsbeforepuréeingthem,butiftheyaregoingintothedishwhole,moreforflavourthanforheat,leavetheseedsin.
IndianGourds
Gourdsarefleshyfruitwithahardskin,althoughafew,suchasthetindoraorivygourd,haveathin,edibleskin.TheyaregrownalloverIndiaduetothewarm,humidclimate,whichisidealfortheseclimbingplants.Manyareneutralenoughintastetoabsorbtheflavoursofthespicestheyarecookedin.Theygroweasilyindomesticgardensandkeepwellforlongperiodsoftime.IhaveseenanincreasingnumberofgourdsavailableintheWestoverthelastfewyears,suchasdoodhiorbottlegourdandkarelaorbittergourd.Gourdsvaryinsize,shapeandcolour,butalmostallhaveadistinctiveskinandamultitudeofseedsembeddedintheinnerflesh.
SomeIndiangourdsare‘turai’orridgedgourds,whichhaveraisedridgesalongtheirlength.Theyoungfruitsarecookedinstir-friesmuchlikeacourgette.Thinlypeeltheridgesbeforecooking(theremainingskincanbeeaten).InsouthIndia,thediscardedridgesaresoakedinwaterandgroundupintoadeliciouschutneywithcoconutandspices.
Karelaorbittergourdsarepopularinspiteoftheirintensebitterflavourandare
oftencombinedwithonionsandtomatoes.Theirskinisbrightgreenandknobblywhenfresh,andastheymaturetheskinturnsyellowandtheseedsstarttoturnorange.KarelasareprizedinIndiaastheycontainactivesubstanceswithanti-diabeticpropertiesincludingcharantin,whichhasaglucose-loweringeffectandaninsulin-likecompoundcalledpolypeptide-p(seewww.diabetes.co.uk).Westernscientistsareworkingonstudiestoprovethis,butinIndia,peoplehaveeatenkarelaforalongtimetohelpregulatebloodsugar.
Topreparekarela,sliceitthinlyandsoaktheslicesinsaltedwaterfor15–20minutesbeforecooking.Thishelpstodrawoutthejuicesandreducethebitternessofthefinaldishslightly.Aftersoaking,drainitandsqueezeoutthejuices.ItcanbefriedlikechipsorcookedwithspicesasinKarelaMasala.
Lauki,dudhiordoodhiisalsocalledbottlegourd.Therearemanyvarietiesofshapesandsizes,suchasthelong,slimoneortheroundball-likeonecommonlyreferredtoas‘calabashgourd’,andthesegrowonclimbingframesindomesticgardens.Thefruitshaveasmoothpale-greenskinandtheinnerfleshiswhite,spongyandabitlikecucumberintaste.Itisquiteablandwateryvegetablebutveryversatileandcanbemadeintocurries,pancakesorsweetssuchashalwa.
Snakegourdsarelongandthinandcanmeasureover6feetinlength!Theyarepluckedwhenverytenderandflexible,andweightsareoftenplacedonthemwhilegrowingtokeepthemstraight.Iflefttogrownaturally,theyendupcurlingaroundthemselveslikehugegreensnakes.
Tindora,tendliorivygourdsareslenderovalfruitsmeasuringonlyabout5cminlength.Theytastecrunchyandcucumber-likeandarequitefreshandjuicy.Theyareslicedlengthwaysorinsmalldiscsandareusedinstir-friesorpickles.Overripetindoraareredontheinsideandcanbebitter,inwhichcasetheyneedtobediscarded.
Tindaaresmooth-skinned,lemon-sizedroundgourdsthatarecookedwithgarlicandtomatoesandarequitepopularinnorthIndiawheretheyaremostlygrown.
Parwalorpointedgourdshaveadarkgreenstripedskinandlargeseeds.Theskinis
quitecoarsebutedible.
LeafyVegetables
TheseareeatenalloverIndia,combinedwithlentils,meat,dairyorgrains.Spinach,called‘palankya’inSanskrit,ismentionedintheSushrutaSamhita,asixth-centuryBCtextaboutAyurveda.Spinachisconsideredcoolingandlighttodigest.ItwaswidelyusedinancientIndiaandwasknownforitsnutritionalpropertiessuchasitsironcontent,whichincreasedvitality.
Fenugreekor‘methi’iseatenfresh,combinedwithpotatoes.Theslightlybitter,fragrantflavourplaysanimportantroleinvegetariancookeryandAyurvedaconsiderstheseedshealingandanti-diabeticduetotheirabilitytoimproveglucosetolerance.Topreparefreshmethi,plucktheleavesoffthethickstalks.Thetenderstemsthatgrowtowardsthetopoftheplantcanbeeaten.IntheWest,bunchesoffenugreekleavesareavailableatIndiangrocersorinlargestoresinareaswithahighAsianpopulation.
Mustardgreensor‘sarson’areawintertreatinPunjab.Ayurvedaclassifiesthemaswarmingandtheyarecookedwithothervegetablesandflourtomakeagreenstewthatiseatenwithcornbreadandbutter.MustardgreensareavailableatIndiangrocersintheWestbutifyoucan’tfindthem,substitutethemwithkale.
Amaranthleavesarecalled‘maath’,‘thotakura’or‘saga’andareavailableingreenorredvarieties,typicallyduringthemonsoonmonthsfromJunetoOctober.Theleavescooktoasilkytextureandarecombinedwithonionsandchillies.Spinachisanacceptablealternative.
Sorrelleavescalled‘gongura’areafavouritevegetableinAndhraPradesh,wheretheyareevenmadeintoatangy,spicypickle.Again,availableasredorgreen,itisasummervegetable,whichbecomesmoresourdependingonhowhotthegrowingconditionsare.IntheWest,thesecanbesubstitutedwithspinachtowhichabitoflemonjuicehasbeenadded.
Colocasia,or‘arvi’,‘eddoe’or‘taro’,iseatenasleavesorrootsalloverthecountry.
Therearetwovarieties:onewithatendergreenstalkthatisusedforcurries,theotherwithapurplestalk,usedtomakeasidedishorsnackcalled‘patra’or‘patrode’.However,colocasialeavescontaincalciumoxalateintheformofmicroscopicneedlesthatcanirritatethethroatandmouth.Thereforeithastobecookedwithanacidsuchastamarind,kokumorlemonbeforeeatingit.Therootsdonothavetheseneedlesandcooktoatextureresemblingastickypotato.AsuitablealternativeintheWestisspinach.
RootVegetables‘Aloo’,‘batata’or‘bangaladumpa’,aspotatoesarevariouslyknown,playakeyroleinIndiancooking.Indiaisoneoftheworld’slargestproducers,withromantic-soundingvarietiessuchasKufriSindhuri,awaxyredpotatoandKufriHimalini,afloury,mildvarietysuitableforgrowingonhillsides.
IntheWest,Itendtousewhicheverpotatoisinseason,soattimesIwillhaveaflouryoneandatothers,awaxyone.IquiteenjoythedifferenceintexturesandwillhappilyswapanewpotatoforaKingEdward.
CarrotsaremostlyawintervegetableinIndia.TheEasternorAsiaticvarietyisdarkerorangeincolourandslimmerthanitsWesterncounterpart.ItissoughtafterforitscolourandflavourinrecipessuchasGajarkaHalwa,ajammy,fragrantmixofshreddedcarrots,sugar,nutsandcardamom.
Yamsofdifferentkindsareeateninvariouspartsofthecountry.‘Suran’or‘oal’isstarchyelephantfootyamwhichiscookedwithspicesintoacurry,mashedforchutneysorpickledinwarmingoilandspices.Itisquitestickyoncepeeledsocooksoiltheirhandsbeforehandlingitanduseanacidicfoodinitscookingtomakeitmoremanageable.It’sallwellworththeeffortbecausesuranhasawonderfuldrytexturethatisquiteunlikeotherrootvegetables.Purpleyamscalled‘kand’arelarge,knarledtubersandagain,mostlyseeninmarketsinthewintermonthswhentheyaremadeintoafabulousGujaratimixedvegetabledishcalled‘oondhiyoon’orspicedandfriedaschips.ThiscanbesubstitutedwithsweetpotatoorpotatointheWest.
Sweetpotatoes,commonlyeateninIndia,arenotfromthepotatofamilyatall.Potatoesbelongtothenightshadefamilywhereassweetpotatoesbelongtothegenusthathasflowers,suchasmorningglory.Theyareslicedandfriedlikechips,cookedincurrieswithlentilsoronionsandtomatoes,orcombinedwithspicestomakestir-friedsidedishes.
AuberginesIndianvegetariancookingwouldbesadlydiminishedwithoutthispopularvegetableknownasbrinjalor‘baingan’.BrinjalshavebeencultivatedinIndiasinceprehistorictimes.Largeauberginesarefire-roastedandmashedintoadishcalled‘bharta’or‘bhareet’.Medium-sized,green,whiteorpurpleonesarecutopenandstuffedwithonions,coconut,tomatoes,flourandspices,and
openandstuffedwithonions,coconut,tomatoes,flourandspices,andsometimesauberginesaredicedandsimplycookedwithpotatoestomakeastir-friedsidedishcalled‘bhaji’.
Someaubergineshavemoreseedsthanothers,butthesearesoftandedible.Thereisnoneedtosaltanddrainaubergines–modernvarietiesarenotbitter.TherearemanyvarietiesofIndianbrinjals,suchasthenorthIndianPusaKranti,withsmalloblongfruitthatarestuffedwithspices,ortheVaishali,amedium-sized,purplebrinjalwithwhitestripes,growninMaharashtra,thatiscookedwithcoconuttomakecurries.
RegionalVegetablesHomekitchenspridethemselvesonusinglocalandseasonalproducefoundinfarmers’markets.Thesouthernstates,suchasTamilNadu,India’slargestbananagrowingstate,willhavebananaflowers,plantainandrawandripejackfruit,whichneedsahot,humidclimatetogrowin.Inthesouthernsummer,jackfruitischoppedupintococonutcurriesorcoolingsalads.
InMaharashtra,smallspinygourdscalled‘kantola’andredsorrelleavesarefoundinmonsoonmarketsaroundAugust.Inthewinter,vegetablemarketsinDelhiarefullofmustardgreensandbathuaorpigweed,aleafyvegetablethatisboiledtoremoveitsbitternessandthenaddedtocurries,ortoyogurttomakearaita.TurnipscanbeseeninPunjabiwintermarketsandthesearemadeintoaseasonalpickletobeeatenthroughthecoldmonths.Marketsaroundthecountrysellbambooshoots,chillies,ginger,tomatoes,pumpkins,okra(ladies’fingers),rawmangoesandallkindsofstems,stalks,leaves,rootsandfruit.Thesearerarelyseenonrestaurantmenusbutcomeintotheirfullgloryinfestiveseasonalmenus.
MASTERCLASS
HOWTOBREAKANDGRATEACOCONUT
CoconutsareimportantnotjustinIndiancookingbutalsoinHinduritualsandcelebrations.InSanskrit,thecoconutiscalled‘shrifal’orfruitofauspiciousness.Itgrowsoncoastalshores,takinginsaltywater,andyetcreatessweetwaterandflesh,aqualitythat,accordingtoHinduphilosophy,shouldbeemulated.CoconutsareplacedonabrasspotdecoratedwithmangoleavesduringtheHindumarriageceremonytosignifyafuturelifeofplenty.Kerala,whichmeans‘LandofCoconuts’,isthestatewiththeidealclimate,thatgrowsthehighestnumberofcoconutsinIndia.Theoriginofthecoconuttreeisvaguebutthefruit,beingwaterresistantandabletofloat,certainlyspreadtovariouslandsviatheoceansandsproutedoncoastsfarandwide.InIndia,coconutsgrowalloverthesouthernpeninsulaandinBengalandAssam.Thesecuisinesusecoconutintheformofmilk,waterorthefleshitself.
HOWTOBUYACOCONUTCoconutsaresoldinmanyforms–asjellynuts,tendergreencoconutsorthehardbrownones.Greencoconutsareprizedforthenourishing,sweetwatertheycontain–oneofnature’sfinestdrinks.Thebrowncoconut,ontheotherhand,isacookingfruitandformsthebaseofalotofsouthIndianandBengalicooking.Whenbuyingabrowncoconut,lookforahard,unbrokenshell.Ifthereisacracktheinnerfleshwillbedryormouldy.Thenliftthecoconutandshakeitclosetoyourear.Youshouldhearthewaterinsidewhichmeansthatitisfresh.
HOWTOBREAKANDGRATEACOCONUTAbrowncoconutisnaturallyfibrous.Pulloffthefibresanddiscard.Youwillfindthree‘eyes’ononeofthetaperedendsofthecoconut.Theylooklikethreelarge,blackdots.Holdthecoconutoverabowl.Usingascrewdriverorcorkscrew,piercetheseeyesanddrainthewaterintothebowl.Thisshouldbeclearandsweetsmelling.Ifitiscloudy,slimyorfoulsmelling,thecoconutiseithernotfreshorhasgoneoff.Clearcoconutwaterissweet
coconutiseithernotfreshorhasgoneoff.Clearcoconutwaterissweetandcanbedrunkstrainedintoacup.
Next,useahammerorbluntendofalargeknifeandsmackthecoconutsharplybutgentlyalongthe‘equator’.Dothisuntilyouseeacrackforming,thenhitalittlehardertobreakitintotwopieces.
Usingasharpknife,priseawaythefleshfromtheshellinlargechunks.Thebrownskincanbeeasilypeeledawayusingavegetablepeeler,leavingyouwithpiecesofbrightwhitecoconutflesh.Itcanthenbegratedinafoodprocessororonagraterorthinlysliced.
InIndia,acoconutistypicallycrackedopenbybangingitonthegroundifonehasanoutdoorspaceorasabove,usingacurvedkitcheninstrumentcalleda‘koyta’.Thetwohalvesarethengratedonacoconutscraper.Thisisaflat,woodenbasetowhichasickle-shapedbladeisattached.Ithasaserratedfanattheend,whichisusedtoscrapeoutthewhitefleshfromthecoconutshell.Thebladeisalsousedtochopmeatandvegetables.Thiswholedeviceisplacedonthefloorandonehastositontheplinthtouseit.
Frozen,gratedcoconutisavailableinthefreezersectionofIndianshopsaswellassomesupermarkets.
DESICCATEDCOCONUTSomeIndianrecipes,suchasdrychutneys,specificallyrequiredesiccatedcoconut,whichiscalled‘kopra’inIndia.Unsweeteneddesiccatedcoconutcanbeusedinsteadoffreshcoconutbutthetastewilldifferabit.Ifsubstitutingfreshwithdesiccated,soakthedriedcoconutinsomewarmwaterfor30minutes.Drainthecoconutbeforeuse.
MASTERCLASS
COCONUTMILK
Makingcoconutmilkisnotdifficultbutitisslightlytimeconsuming.
Makes400mlthickmilkand10mmlthinmilkPREPARATION→5minutes
YOUWILLNEED:freshcoconut,shredded–warmwater–jugblender–sieve–bowl
1Oncethecoconuthasbeencrackedopen,peeledandshredded(seehere),soakthefleshinwarmwater(enoughtocoverthecoconut)forafewminutes.
2Putthecoconutandwaterinablenderandblitzuntilcoarse.Pourintoasieveplacedoverabowlandpressandsqueezethecoconuttoextractthethickwhitemilk.InIndiankitchens,thisprocessisrepeatedtoextract‘thin’coconutmilkafterthefirst‘thick’pressing.Recipeswilloftenaskyoutocookthecurryinthe‘thin’milkandfinishitwiththe‘thick’milkattheend.Thisisbecauserichcoconutmilkmaysplitonprolongedcooking.
STORECUPBOARDVARIATIONS
CannedcoconutmilkYoucanalsobuycansofcoconutmilk,butmakesuretochecktheingredientsonthelabelforunwantedthickenerssuchasguarorxanthangums.Partlyusedcansofmilkcanbedecantedintotubsand
frozenforlateruse.Tomake‘thin’milkfromacan,dilutehalfthecanwithanequalamountofwater.Theremaindercanbeusedas‘thick’milk.
CoconutpowderorcreamedcoconutIfyourequireasmallamountofcoconutmilk,makethiswithcoconutpowderorcreamedcoconut.
2tablespoonscoconutpowderorcreamedcoconut(ormore,dependingonhowthickyouwantthemilktobe)
200mlwarmwatersievebowl
1Combinethepowderorcreamedcoconutwiththewarmwaterandwhiskuntilsmooth.Strainthroughasieveintoabowl.
AlooGobi
[NORTHINDIANSPICEDPOTATOWITHCAULIFLOWER]
Thismuch-loveddishhasbeenmadeevenmorepopularbynorthIndianrestaurantsintheWest.CauliflowersgrowinabundanceinthenorthIndianwinterandareapopularvegetabledishthere.They,alongwithpotatoes,areavailableallyearroundinWesterncountriesandarethereforearestaurantstaple.Thistastesdivinewhenthevegetablesarealmostfriedratherthanstewed,somyrecipehasabitmoreoilthanI’dnormallyuse.Typicallyadrysidedish,itgoeswellwithrotis,pooris,parathasorricedishes.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING40minutes
3tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspooncuminseeds1mediumonion,finelydiced½teaspoonginger-garlicpaste2freshgreenchillies,finelychopped2potatoes,peeledandcutinto2cmdice2fresh
tomatoes,finelydiced½headofcauliflower,cutintoflorets1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoonamchoor(driedmangopowder)orlemonjuice1teaspoongarammasalaasmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnishsaltRotis,toserve
1Heattheoilinaheavy-basedpanoverahighheatandaddthecuminseeds.Assoonastheydarken,addtheonionandfryforabout6minutesuntilsoft.Addtheginger-garlicpasteandchilliesandfryforafewseconds.2Tipinthepotatoes.Fryforacoupleofminutes,stirringfrequentlytopreventthemixturefromstickingtothebottomofthepan,thenaddthetomatoesandallowtosoften.Cookforacoupleofminutes,thentipinthecauliflowerflorets,turmericandamchoorpowder(ifusing)andseasonwithsalt.Mixwell,reducetheheatandcookfor30minutes,sprinklinginacoupleofhandfulsofwaterifitbeginstosticktothepan.
3Whenthevegetablesarecompletelydone,removefromtheheat,sprinklewiththegarammasala,addlemonjuice(ifusinginsteadofamchoor),seasontotasteandservehotsprinkledwiththecorianderandrotisalongside.
PalakKiSubzi
[SPINACHANDDILLMEDLEY]
Ifindthecombinationofspinachwithothergreenssuchkale,chardorcollardgreensirresistibleforitstasteandtexture.GreensareoftencombinedinIndiancookingforthisreason.Thedillbringsafreshnesstothisrecipe,whichisapowerhouseofnutrientssuchasvitaminsAandC.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING30minutes
2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspooncuminseeds1largeonion,finelychopped1teaspoondriedfenugreekleaves(kasoorimethi)oragoodhandfuloffreshfenugreek
leaves,washed,drainedandfinelychopped1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste1freshgreenchilli,finelychopped300gfreshspinach,washed,drainedandchopped150gfreshdill,washed,drainedandchoppedsaltRotis,toserve(optional)
1Heattheoilinaheavy-basedpanoverahighheatandaddthecuminseeds.Fryforabout1minuteuntiltheydarken,thenaddtheonionandfryforabout5minutesuntilsoft.Addthekasoorimethi,ifusing.Stirintheginger-garlicpasteandthechilli.2Tipinthechoppedspinachanddillalongwiththefenugreekleaves,ifusing,seasonwithsaltandstirwell.Keepstirringfor8–10minutesuntiltheleavesarewellblendedandcookedthrough.Servehotwithrotisortoaccompanyachickencurryandrice.
MASTERCLASS
BAINGANBHARTA–Fire-roastedAuberginewithSpices
ThisverypopularnorthIndiandishissimpletopreparebutmightseemabitscaryatfirst!Theauberginecanbecookedinseveralways:directlyonagashobwithoutoil,onabarbecue,orgrilledorbakedinanovenafterbrushingwithoil.Iprefertocookitonthehob–ittakesonly7–8minutesandachievesthesmokiestflavour.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING40minutes
YOUWILLNEED:1largeaubergine2tablespoonsvegetableoil½teaspooncuminseeds1mediumonion,finelychopped1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste1freshgreenchilli,chopped2tablespoonstomatopuréeor2freshtomatoes,finely
chopped,seedsandall1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongroundcoriander3tablespoonsgreengardenpeas(freshorfrozen)asmallsprigoffreshcoriander
leaves,chopped,togarnishsaltRotisorNaans,toserve
1Placetheauberginedirectlyonalitgashobwithoutbrushingwithoil.Cookfor7–8minutes,turningitfromtimetotimewithapairoftongs,untilyoucanpiercethethickestparteasilywithaknife.Bythistimetheskinwilllookcrinklyandcrisp.Leavetocool,thenpeelofftheskinwithasmallknifeorwithyourfingers.
2Discardthestalkandmashthefleshoftheaubergineinabowlwitha
fork.Setaside.
3Heattheoilinasaucepanoverahighheat,addthecuminseedsandfryfor30secondsuntiltheydarken.Addtheonionandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft,thenaddtheginger-garlicpasteandthegreenchilliandfryfor1minute.Addthetomatopuréeandthespicesandcookfor4–5minutesuntilwellblended,addingatablespoonofwatertostopthepuréefromstickingtothebottomofthepan.Ifusingfreshtomatoes,youwillnotneedtoaddwater.
4Tipinthepeas,seasonwithsaltandcookfor7–8minutesoveramediumheatuntiltheyaretender.
5Stirintheaubergine.Seasontotasteandservehot,sprinkledwiththecoriander.Enjoywitharotisornaan.
BhindiKiSubzi
[SPICEDSTIR-FRIEDOKRA]
Thisstraightforwardstir-fryhasmanyregionalvariations.Thesearebasedonlocally-growningredientssuchascoconut,whichissprinkledontopinthesouth,oroncookingstylessuchasthenorthIndian‘tadka’,whereonions,ginger,garlicandtomatoesarestir-friedatthebeginningtocreateabaseforthedish.You’llfindthatattheendofcooking,thebottomofthepanappearsblack–thisisthesliminessthathascookedoffanddoesnotmeanthattheokrahasburnt.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plusovernightdryingtimeCOOKING25minutes
2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspoonblackmustardseeds½teaspooncuminseeds1mediumonion,thinlysliced300gokra,washedanddriedovernight,topsandtailsremoved,cutinto2cmdice1teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1tablespoonlemonjuicesaltRotis,toserve
1Heattheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheybegintopop,addthecuminseeds.Astheydarken,addtheonionandfryfor4–5minutesuntilsoft.2Tipintheokraandstirwell.Seasonwithsalt.Cookoveramediumheatfor12–15minutes,stirringfromtimetotime,untiltheokrasoftens.Thevegetablewillchangefrombeingfirmtosoft–youcantestthisbycuttingthroughapiecewithyourladle.Thestickinessshoulddisappearbynow.Thecolourwillhave
alsochangedfromabrighttoadullgreen.3Stirinthegroundspicesandlemonjuice,cookforacoupleofminutesandservehotwithrotis.
BhindiKurkure
[CRISP,TANGY,SPICYOKRA]
Okraisawell-lovedvegetablethroughoutIndia,butonlywhenit’snotgloopy.Thestickysapiscookedoffbytheadditionofsomeacidsuchasamchoororkokumandnowaterisaddedwhilemakingadryokradish.Whenaddingittoacurry,therewillalwaysbeanacidicbasethatcutsthroughthesliminess.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plusovernightdryingtimeCOOKING15minutes
1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoonamchoor(driedmangopowder)2tablespoonsgramflourvegetableoil,fordeep-frying300gokra,washedanddriedovernight,topsandtailsremoved,andcutdiagonallyinto
thickslicessaltsmallpinchofcastersugar,toserve
1Mixthechillipowder,turmeric,amchoor,salttoseasonandgramflourinabowltogetherwithalittlebitofwatertomakeathickbatter.2Heatenoughoilinafryingpantoholdasinglelayerofokra.Diptheokrainthebatter,letanyexcessbatterdripoffbeforefryingandfrytheminbatchesfor4–5minutesuntilcrispandgolden.Youmayneedtoseparatethefryingokrawithafork,astheflourcanmakethemclumptogether.3Removefromtheoilwithaslottedspoon,drainonkitchenpaperandservehotwithasprinklingofcastersugar.
GucchiKorma
[MUSHROOMANDPEAKORMA]
MushroomshavebeencultivatedinIndiaonlyforthepast40yearsorso.Earlier,foragersusedtogathersmallquantitiesforhomeusebuttheywereneverconsideredamainstreamvegetable.Ayurvedaclassifiesthemas‘tamasic’orunpalatable,promotinglazinessandpessimism.Withtheincreaseinfarmedclosed-cupmushrooms,oneseestheminIndianmarketsandonrestaurantmenusbutsomepeoplestillavoidthembecauseofAyurvedicthinking.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING40minutes
1largeonion,sliced1freshgreenchilli,chopped50gunsaltedcashewnuts2tablespoonsvegetableoil2
teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste200gclosedcupmushrooms,sliced100gfrozengreenpeas1teaspoongroundcoriander1teaspoongroundcumin1teaspoongarammasala,plusextra
toserve1teaspoongroundturmeric1tablespoonsinglecream(optional)saltPooris,Rotisorboiledrice,toserve
1Puttheonion,chilliandcashewnutsinapanwithjustenoughwatertocoverthemandbringtotheboil.Simmerforabout10minutes,untiltheonionisverysoft,thentransfertoablenderandblitztoasmoothpaste.Setaside.2Heattheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat.Addtheginger-garlicpaste,cookfor30seconds,thenaddthemushroomsandpeastothepan.Seasonwithsaltandstirinthegroundspices.Cookforafewminutes,untilthemushroomsreleasetheirjuicesandthespicescook,thenaddtheonionandcashewpaste.3Cookfor7–8minutesuntilthepeasaredone.Stirinthecream,ifusing.Seasontotaste,heatthrough,sprinklewithapinchofgarammasalaandservehotwithpooris,rotisorrice.
BanarasiAloo
[POTATOESWITHTAMARINDANDCREAM]
Theadditionofcreammakesthislovelyreciperichenoughtobeservedatparties.Banaras,VaranasiorKashi,asitisvariouslyknown,issituatedonthebanksoftheriverGangainUttarPradeshandisoneoftheholiestcitiesforaHindubecauseofitsancientShivatemple.Thecuisineisamixofvariousstylesbutvegetariancookeryisespeciallypopularforreligiousreasons.Thisrecipedemonstrateshowrichingredientsareaddedtohumblevegetablessuchasthepotatotomakearatherfestivedish.
Serves4PREPARATION→55minutesCOOKING40minutes
200gpotatoes2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspoonfennelseeds1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder,mixedwith2tablespoonsofwater2teaspoonstamarindpulporshop-boughttamarindpaste2tablespoonstomatopurée2tablespoonssinglecreamsalt1teaspoongarammasala,toserve
1Boilthepotatoesintheirskins,thenpeelandcutinto2cmcubes.2Heattheoilinasaucepanoverahighheat,thenaddthefennelseeds.Whentheydarken,addthechilliwater.Cookfor1minute,untilthewaterevaporates,thenaddthetamarindandtomatopurée.Cookforafewseconds.Foldinthecookedpotatoes,seasonwithsaltandpourinthecream.Heatthrough,addingalittlewatertomakeathicksauce.3Sprinklewiththegarammasalaandservehot.
DoodhiChana
[BOTTLEGOURDWITHCHANADAL]
Bottlegourd,‘doodhi’,‘dudhi’or‘lauki’,isawaterybutnutritiousvegetablethatcantakeontheflavourofthespicesitiscookedin.Youcanswapthechanadalforatinofchickpeasforaspeedierversion.Thisrecipeismadealloverthecentral,westernandnorthernpartsofIndia.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plus30minutessoakingtimeCOOKING30minutes
2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspooncuminseeds1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste1teaspoongroundturmeric3tablespoonssplitgramlentils(chanadal),soakedinwarmwaterfor30minutesand
drained1mediumdoodhi(bottlegourd),peeledandcutinto2cmcubes1teaspoongroundcoriander1freshtomato,choppedahandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,choppedsaltRotiorboiledrice,toserve
1Heattheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat,addthecuminseedsandfryuntiltheydarken,thenaddtheginger-garlicpasteandturmeric.Stirforafewseconds,thenaddthelentilsandpourin150mlwater.Bringtotheboil,reducetheheatandsimmerforabout10minutes,addingmorewaterifitdriesout.2Tipinthedoodhi,thenaddthegroundcoriander,tomatoandseasonwithsalt.Mixwell,addasplashofwaterandbringtotheboil.Thedoodhiwillreleaseitsjuicesduetotheaddedsalt.Reducetheheat,coverandsimmerfor10minutes.
3Removefromtheheat,seasontotaste,stirinthecorianderandservehotwithrotisorrice.
KarelaMasala
[SPICEDBITTERGOURD]
Thebitternessofthesegourdsisanacquiredtaste,butbeinganaturalbloodsugarstabiliser,theyareeatenfrequentlyinIndianhomes.ManyIndiansarepronetoType2diabetes.AWorldHealthOrganizationstudyfrom2004hassuggestedthatby2030,80millionpeopleinIndiawillhavethedisease,partlybecauseofincreasedprosperityleadingtoanincreaseincaloricintake.Gourdsaresoakedinsaltedwateranddrainedtoremovesomeofthebitternessbutsomepeopleactuallydrinkthiswateraswell,becauseofitsblood-sugar-stabilisingproperties.Lookforbrightgreen,firmfruits.Discardtheinnerseedsiftheyarehard(thesoftonescanbeeaten).
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plus20minutessoakingtimeCOOKING35minutes
2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspooncuminseeds1largeonion,finelydiced300gkarela(bittergourd),washed,thinlyslicedandsoakedinsaltedwaterfor20minutes1teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowdersaltRotis,ParathasorNaans,toserve
1Heattheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat,thenaddthecuminseeds.Fryuntiltheydarken,thenaddtheonionandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft.2Squeezeouttheexcesswaterfromthekarelaandaddittotheonions.Reducetheheattomediumandcookfor12–15minutes,untiltheybegintochange
colourandsoften.Continuecookinguntilyoucancutthroughapiecewithaspoon.3Addthegroundspices,seasonwithsaltandmixwell.Continuetocookoveralowheat,stirringfrequentlytopreventitfromstickingtothebottomofthepan,forafurthercoupleofminutes.Thekarelashouldbedry,wellbrownedandslightlycrisp.Servehotwithrotis,parathasornaans.
BagareBaingan
[AUBERGINESINASESAMEANDPEANUTSAUCE]
ThereareseveralversionsofthisveryfamousHyderabadidish,dependingonwhatvarietyofaubergineisavailableorbasedonfamilypreferences,butallcontainsesameandnuts.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING40minutes
2tablespoonsvegetableoil4driedredchillies,halvedandseedsshakenout2tablespoonsunsaltedpeanuts1
tablespooncorianderseeds1mediumonion,sliced2tablespoonsfreshlygratedordesiccatedcoconut1tablespoonwhitesesameseeds1
tablespoonginger-garlicpaste1teaspoongroundturmeric250gwholesmallauberginesor1largeaubergine,diced2teaspoonstamarindpulporshop-
boughttamarindpaste1tablespoonjaggeryorsoftbrownsugarasmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnishsalt
1Heathalftheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheatandaddthechillies,peanutsandcorianderseeds.Fryuntiltheyturndark,thenaddtheonion.Continuefrying,stirringfromtimetotime,andwhentheonionturnsgoldenbrown,addthecoconutandsesameseeds.Asthecoconutstartstobrown,addtheginger-garlicpasteandmixwell.Removefromtheheat,leavetocoolslightlythentransfertoablender,addenoughwatertocoverandblitztomakeafinepaste.Seasonwithsalt,stirintheturmericandsetaside.2Keepingthestemintact,slittheauberginestwiceinacrossnearlyallthewaytothestem.Stuffeachauberginewiththecurrypaste.Ifthereissomeleftover,reservethisforthesauce.Ifusingdicedaubergine,proceedtothenextstep.3Heattheremainingoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat.Putthe
stuffedauberginesinthepanandfryforacoupleofminutes.Addtheremainingcurrypaste(orallofitifusingdicedaubergine).Pourinthetamarindpulp,sprinkleinthejaggeryandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmer,addingmorewaterasrequired,for25–30minutesuntiltheauberginesarecookedthrough.4Seasontotasteandservehot,sprinkledwiththecoriander.
BharelaRinganNuShak
[STUFFEDBABYAUBERGINES]
ManyIndianregionshavearecipeforstuffedaubergines–thisoneisfromGujaratandusespeanutsandgramflourtothickenandflavourthesauce.InMaharashtracooksuselocalcoconutandinthenorth,thestuffingmighthaveonionsandtomatoes.Ihavechosenthisoneforitsnuttyfragrance.Ifyoucan’tfindthesmallvarietyofaubergines,thisrecipecanstillbemadewithlargeauberginescutintoadiceandcookedinthesauceratherthanbeingstuffedwithit.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING45minutes
2tablespoonsgramflour1x400gcanofchoppedtomatoes2teaspoonsunsaltedpeanuts,crushed1tablespoon
ginger-garlicpasteahandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped½teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder300gsmallaubergines,slitlengthwaysbutstalks
lefton2tablespoonsvegetableoil½teaspoonblackmustardseedssaltRotisorGujaratiDalandboiledrice,toserve
1Combinethegramflour,tomatoes,peanuts,ginger-garlicpaste,corianderleaves,groundspicesandsaltinamixingbowl.Stufftheaubergineswiththismixture,savinganythatisleftoverforthecurry.2Heattheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheat.Addthemustardseedsandfryuntiltheybegintopop,thengentlyplacethestuffedauberginesinthepanandpourinanyleftoverspicemixture.Pourinafewtablespoonsofwaterandcoverthepan.Bringtotheboil,reducetheheatandsimmerfor25minutesoruntiltheauberginesarecooked.Keepaddingwaterasnecessarytopreventthemixturefromsticking.Seasontotasteandservehot–thesauceshouldbequitethick–withrotisorGujaratidalandrice.
AlooMethi
[FENUGREEKLEAVESWITHPOTATO]
Freshfenugreek(methi)issoldinbuncheswiththerootsstillintact.Theleavesarepluckedoffandthelargestemsandrootsarediscarded.Ifyoucan’tfindfreshfenugreek,substituteitwithdriedfenugreek,called‘kasoorimethi’,whichissoldinIndiangroceryorspiceshops.Cuttingthepotatoesintosmallchunksmeanstheycookfasterandabsorbtheflavoursbetter.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING35minutes
1tablespoonvegetableoil1teaspooncuminseeds2onions,finelydiced1freshgreenchilli,finelydiced2largepotatoes,peeledandcutinto2cmcubes½teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongroundcoriander1bunchfreshfenugreek(methi),leavespicked,washedandfinelychoppedor2tablespoons
driedfenugreekleaves(kasoorimethi)saltRotisorboiledriceandlentils(tryAamti),toserve
1Heattheoilinaheavy-basedpanoverahighheat,addthecuminseedsandfryfor20secondsuntiltheydarken,thenaddtheonionsandchilliandcookfor5–6minutesuntilsoft.2Tipinthepotatoesandfrywellforafewminutes,untilstartingtobrown.Addthegroundspicesandcookforafewseconds,thenstirinthefenugreekleavesandseasonwithsalt.Coverandcookoveralowheatfor25minutes,untilthepotatoesaretenderandyoucanpiercethemeasilywithaknife.Topreventthepotatoesfromstickingtothebottomofthepan,placeaconvexlidonthepan
andfillitwithafewtablespoonsofcoldwater.Asthevegetablesheatup,steamthathitstheinsideofthelidcondensesandfallsbackintothepan,providingabitofmoisture.3SeasontotasteandservehotwithrotisorwithriceandalentildishsuchasAamti.
MuttakosThoran
[CABBAGEWITHCOCONUT]
Thissimple,drysidedishisaKeralaspecialityandisoftenservedonabananaleafaspartofatraditionalmealsuchasaweddingfeast.Youcanreplacethecabbagewithotherfirmvegetablessuchascarrots,parsnipsorbroccoli.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING30minutes
2tablespoonscoconutorvegetableoil1teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseeds10freshor15driedcurryleaves2freshgreenchillies,slitlengthwayslargepinchofasafoetida
1teaspoongroundturmeric200gwhitecabbage,finelyshredded1tablespoonfreshorfrozengratedcoconutsalt
1Heattheoilinaheavy-basedfryingpanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheybegintopopaddthecurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter)andchillies.Sprinkleintheasafoetida,stirintheturmericandaddthecabbage.Seasonwithsalt,coverandcookoveramediumheatfor20–25minutes,stirringoccasionally,untiltender.Thesaltwilldrawoutthewaterfromthecabbage.2Removefromtheheat,stirinthecoconut,seasontotasteandservehot.
VangeFry
[FRIEDSPICEDAUBERGINE]
ThisrecipefromMaharashtraissimpleandmakesagreatsidedishwithriceanddal.Thecrispcrustisadeliciouscontrasttothesoftcentre.You’llneedalargeaubergineforthisandtheslicesshouldbeaboutacentimetrethicktoholdtheirshapewhencooking.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING15minutes
1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongroundcumin1largeaubergine,thicklyslicedvegetableoil,forshallow-frying3tablespoonsricefloursalt
1Mixthespicesandsalttoseason.Rubtheauberginesliceswiththisspicemixtureandsetasidefor10minutes.2Heatenoughoiltocoverthebaseofafryingpanoverahighheat.Testthetemperatureoftheoilbydippingasliceofaubergineintoit.Ifitsizzles,theoilisready.Dipeachsliceofaubergineinthericeflourtocoatitonbothsidesandplaceintheoil.Frytheslicesinbatches,for3–4minutesoneachside,untilcrispandgolden.Youmayneedtodrizzleabitmoreoilifthepangetstoodry.3Removewithaslottedspoon,drainonkitchenpaperandserveatonce.
NavratanKorma
[NINE-JEWELLEDCURRY]
Thisrich,slightlysweet,northIndianvegetablecurryhasitsoriginsinMughlaicooking,whichisablendofIndianandPersianstyleswhereyoufindfruitaddedtocurries,unlikeinotherstylesaroundIndia.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes→COOKING50minutes
2tablespoonsvegetableoil1smallcinnamonstick½teaspooncrushedblackpeppercorns3greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusks
discarded2onions,grated1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste2tablespoonstomatopurée3freshgreenchillies,slitlengthways200gmixedrawvegetables,suchaspeas,cauliflower,
carrots,beansandpotatoes,peeledanddicedintobite-sizedpieces(exceptthepeas)1teaspoongroundturmeric
1teaspoongarammasala,plusextratoserve2tablespoonsunsaltedcashewnuts2tablespoonscannedpineapplechunks,chopped,plus3tablespoonsofthejuice100ml
singlecreamsmallsprigoffreshcorianderleaves,togarnishsaltboiledriceandpoppadums,toserve
1Heattheoilinasaucepanoverahighheat,addthecinnamonstick,pepperandcardamomandfryfor1minuteuntiltheysizzle,thenaddtheonions,reducetheheattomediumandfryfor7–8minutesuntiltheybegintochangecolour.Keepstirringtopreventthemfromsticking.Stirintheginger-garlicpaste,tomatopuréeandchilliesandcookfor2–3minutesuntiltheoilseparates,addingacoupleoftablespoonsofwatertohastentheprocess.2Increasetheheatandtipinthevegetables,turmeric,garammasalaandsalttoseason.Mixgently,justcoverwithwaterandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor35minutesuntilthevegetablesaretender.3Foldinthecashewnutsandpineappleandpourinthepineapplejuicewiththe
cream.Warmthrough,seasontotasteandservehot,sprinkledwithgarammasalaandthecorianderleaves.
KumraCharchari
[PUMPKINWITHMUSTARDSEEDPASTE]
ThisisadryBengalidishservedwithriceanddal.Thepumpkincanbeswappedforpotatoes,auberginesorcarrotsbutcookingtimeswillincreaseforpotatoesandcarrots.Thesweetnessofpumpkinor‘kumro’goeswellwiththeslightsharpnessofmustard.Shop-boughtmustardpastesarenotsuitableastheyoftenhaveadditionalingredientssuchaswine,vinegarorwheatflour.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING40minutes
1teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseeds1freshgreenchilli1tablespoonmustardorvegetableoil1teaspoonnigella(kalonji)orcuminseeds300gpumpkin,cutintobite-sizedpieces(skinlefton)saltPoorisorboiledriceanddal,toserve
1Crushthemustardseedsandchilliinapestleandmortarorgrindinaspicemilltomakeapaste.2Heatthemustardoilinanon-stickpantosmokingpointthenreducetheheatandaddthenigellaorcuminseeds.Ifusingvegetableoil,warmitbeforeaddingtheseeds.Tipinthepumpkin,seasonwithsaltandfoldinthemustardandchillipaste.Pourinenoughwatertocoverthebaseofthepanandbringtotheboil.3Reducetheheat,coverandsimmerfor8–10minutes,untilthepumpkinistender.Removefromtheheat,seasontotasteandservehotwithpoorisorriceanddal.
KandaMirchiChaZunka
[SPRINGONIONSANDPEPPERSWITHGRAMFLOUR]
AMaharashtriansidedish,thisistraditionallyeatenwithmilletbreadcalled‘bhakri’.Itcanbemadedry,orslightlyrunnywiththeadditionofmorewaterattheend.Ipreferminetobesoftandsquidgyasinthisrecipe.
Serves4PREPARATION→20minutesCOOKING20minutes
tablespoonsgramflour2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspoonblackmustardseeds½teaspooncuminseedslargepinchofasafoetida10freshor15driedcurryleaves3springonions,finelychopped1greenpepper,deseeded
andfinelydiced1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongroundcoriander½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowdersaltBhakriorRotis,toserve
1Heataheavy-basedpanoveramediumheat,addthegramflouranddry-toastitfor2–3minutes,stirringconstantlytopreventitfromscorching.Reducetheheatandtoastitfor6–7minutes,untilitdarkensandbecomesfragrant.Removefromtheheat,tipintoabowlandsetaside.2Wipethepan,addtheoilandplaceitoverahighheat.Addthemustardseedsandwhentheybegintocrackle,addthecumin,asafoetidaandcurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter).Fryfor1minute,thenaddthespringonions,dicedpepper,groundspices,salttoseasonandmixwell.Reducetheheatandstir-fryfor5minutesuntilthevegetablesaresoft.3Addthetoastedgramflourandstirwell.Itwillabsorbanyliquidandoiltoformclumps.Breakuptheclumpstocookthem,sprinklinginacoupleofhandfulsofwatertohastentheprocess.Theflourtakesonly3–4minutestocook.
4Removefromtheheatwhentheflourhasabsorbedalltheliquidandhasturnedgoldenbrownandmoist.5Seasontotasteandservehotwithbhakriorrotis.
GodeBatate
[SPICEDPOTATOCURRY]
ThisisaspecialityoftheMaharashtrianPatharePrabhucommunityandusestheirspecialcurrypowdercalled‘Parbhisambhar’.Itismadewithoutonionsorgarlicsoisconsideredsuitableforcalm,fastingdayswhenabstinencefromtheseinvigoratingfoodsisencouraged.Beingquitethininconsistency,itiseatenwithpoorisorotherbread.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING40minutes
2tablespoonsvegetableoil3cloves1smallcinnamonstickpinchofasafoetida1teaspoongratedfreshrootginger3potatoes,peeledandcubed1teaspoonground
turmeric½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoonparbhisambharorsambharpowder
saltPooris,toserve
1Heattheoilinasaucepanoverahighheatandaddtheclovesandcinnamonstick.Whentheystarttosizzle,tipintheasafoetidaandginger.Cookforafewseconds,thenstirinthepotatoes,turmeric,chillipowderandparbhisambhar.Seasonwithsaltandpourinenoughwatertobarelycoverthepotatoes.Bringtotheboilthenreducetheheat,coverandsimmerfor30minutesuntilthepotatoesaretender.Thegravyshouldbequitewaterywithoilfloatingontop.2Seasontotasteandservehotwithpooris.
BatatyaTalasani
[POTATOBATONSWITHCHILLIANDGARLIC]
ThisrecipeismadebytheKonkanicommunity,asectofBrahminsfromKarnatakabothinlandaswellascoastal,towhichmostofmyfamilybelong.Asachild,itwascomfortingtohavethisonaSundaynightwithplaindal,riceandayogurtraita.Thepotatoesarealwayscutinadistinctivebatonshapelikechips,withedgesthatcatchtheflavourofgarlicandchilli.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING30minutes
2tablespoonsvegetableoil½teaspoonblackmustardseeds½teaspooncuminseeds3driedredchillies,splitandseedsshakenoutpinchofasafoetida3garliccloves,lightlycrushedandleftintheskin2largepotatoes,peeledandcutintothick
batonssalt
1Heattheoilinashallownon-stickfryingpanoverahighheat,addthemustardseedsandfryuntiltheybegintopop.Addthecuminseeds,then–almostimmediately–addthechilliesandasafoetida.2Addthegarlicandfryfor1minuteuntilitturnsgolden,thenaddthepotatoes.Seasonwithsalt,reducetheheatandfryfor15–20minutesuntilthepotatoesaretender(thiswilldependonthevarietyofpotatoused).
SindhiKadhi
[VEGETABLESINAGRAMFLOURSAUCE]
IgrewupinMumbaiwithlotsofSindhifriendsandthisdishwasalwaysatreatwhenIwasinvitedtoeatattheirhomes.Youcanuseamixofthevegetablesmentionedintherecipeorwhicheverfirmvegetableyouhaveavailable,suchassweetpotatoes,greenbeansorbutternutsquash(allcutintobite-sizedpieces).Drumstickisalong,thingreenvegetablethathasachewyinedibleskinbuttender,butteryflesh.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING40minutes
2tablespoonsgramflour½x400gcanofchoppedtomatoes2tablespoonsvegetableoil½teaspoonfenugreekseeds10freshor15driedcurryleaves1teaspoongratedfreshrootginger300gmixedraw
vegetables,suchasclusterbeans,carrots,potatoes,aubergines,drumstick,peeledandcubed1teaspoongroundturmeric
1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder3tablespoonstamarindpulporshop-boughttamarindpastesalt
boiledrice,toserve
1Placetheflourinasmalldrypanoveramediumheatandtoastfor7–8minutes,stirringfrequently,totoastitevenly,untilitbeginstochangecolourandbecomesfragrant.Mixthegramflourwiththetomatoesandblitztoapuréeinablender.Pourin300mlcoldwaterandblitzagaintoblend.2Heattheoilinasaucepanoverahighheatandaddthefenugreekseedsandcurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter).Whentheydarkenslightly,addthegingerandstir.Addthevegetables,turmericandchillipowder,thentipinthetamarindandcookforafewseconds.Addthetomatoandflourmixtureandseasonwithsalt.3Bringtotheboil,reducetheheat,coverandcook,stirringfrequently,for30minutesuntilthevegetablesaretender.Seasontotasteandservehotwithrice.
BeansPoriyal
[GREENBEANSWITHCOCONUT]
AporiyalisasouthernIndiandry,sautéedvegetabledishusuallyservedonthesidewithriceorroti.Youcanmakeaporiyalwithanynumberof‘dry’vegetables–cabbage,cauliflowerandotherbeansarefavourites.Thisisnotaspicydish–thechilliesaretheremoreforflavourthanforheat.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING15minutes
2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseedslargepinchofasafoetida1teaspoonwhiteuraddal,washedanddrained2driedwholeredchillies300ggreenbeans,topped,tailedandfinelydiced1tablespoonfreshlygratedordesiccatedcoconutsaltRotisorboiledrice,toserve
1Heattheoilinanon-stickpanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheybegintopop,addtheasafoetida,uraddalandredchillies.Whenthelentilsbegintodarken,tipinthegreenbeansandstir.2Pourinacoupleofteaspoonsofwater,seasonwithsaltandcook,uncovered,for12–15minutesuntilthebeansaresoft.3Removefromtheheat,stirinthecoconut,seasontotasteandservehotwithrotisorrice.
VegetableSaagu
[MIXEDVEGETABLECURRYWITHCOCONUT]
ThiscreamycurryisfromthesouthernstateofKarnatakaandiseatenforbreakfastwithDosasorasamainmealwithrice.Thereareseveralversions–Ihavetastedsomewithonionsormintandknowthatsomecooksaddpoppyseedpasteforthickness.Ihavechosenthisrecipeforitssimpleflavours.Trytousefreshcoconutforthis(seeforhowtopreparecoconut).
Serves4PREPARATION→25minutesCOOKING45minutes
1teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseedslargepinchoffreshordriedcurryleaves200gmixedrawvegetables,suchascarrots,beans,peas,cauliflower,cutintobite-sizedpieces(exceptpeas)salt
Forthecurrypaste2tablespoonssplitgramlentils(chanadal)2tablespoonscoconutorvegetableoil1
tablespooncorianderseeds1smallcinnamonstick4cloves½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste2freshgreenchillies3tablespoonsfreshlygratedorfrozencoconut
1Heatafryingpanoverahighheat,addthelentilsanddry-toastthemforafewminutesuntiltheybegintochangecolour.Addhalftheoiltothepanandaddthecorianderseeds,cinnamon,clovesandpepper.Oncethespicesaresizzling,stirintheginger-garlicpaste.Removefromtheheatandtransfertoablenderalongwiththegreenchilliesandcoconut.Pourinenoughwatertocoverandblitztoafinepurée.2Heattheremainingoilinapanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Astheybegintopop,tipinthecurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter)andthenthevegetables.Seasonwithsaltandpourinenoughwatertojustcoverthevegetables.Bringtotheboilthenreducetheheatandsimmerfor25–30minutesuntilthevegetablesaretenderbutstill
havesomebite.3Stirinthecoconutandspicepastefromtheblender,seasontotaste,heatthroughandservehot.
MakkaiSimlaMirchKiSubji
[SWEETCORNANDMIXEDPEPPERCURRY]
CobsofcornaresoldasstreetfoodinmanypartsofIndiaandthekernelsaresoldinmarketstobeusedincurries.Theyarecombinedwithcoconutinthesouth,onionsinthenorthoryogurtinthewest.ThisisanorthIndianrecipe.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING30minutes
2tablespoonsvegetableoil1largeonion,finelydiced1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste2freshgreenchillies,finelydiced1teaspoongroundcumin1teaspoongroundcoriander1teaspoongroundturmeric2mediumtomatoes,chopped100gfrozenortinnedsweetcornkernels1smallgreenpepper,deseededanddiced1small
red,yellowororangepepper,deseededanddicedasmallhandfuloffinelychoppedfreshcorianderleaves,togarnishsalt
1Heattheoilinaheavy-basedpanoverahighheat,addtheonionandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft.Addtheginger-garlicpasteandthedicedgreenchillies.Cookforaminuteorsothenaddthegroundspices,cookforafewseconds,thentipinthechoppedtomatoesandseasonwithsalt.Cookfor2–3minutesuntilthetomatoessoften.2Mixinthecornanddicedpeppers,addabout150mlwaterandstirwell.Bringtotheboil,reducetheheat,coverandcookfor10–12minutesuntilthepeppersaresoft.Checkandadjusttheseasoningifnecessary.3Servehot,sprinkledwiththecorianderleaves.
FlowerchaRassa
[CAULIFLOWERWITHCOCONUTANDPEPPER]
InthiscoastalMaharashtrianrecipe,thecoconutbringsasweetnessthatcontrastswiththeslightbitternessofthecauliflower.Iusethetendergreenstalksaswell–inmyhomethesearethemostcovetedpartofthisdish!
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING40minutes
2tablespoonsvegetableoil10blackpeppercorns5cloves1tablespooncorianderseeds2onions,finelychopped3tablespoonsfreshlygratedcoconutordesiccatedcoconut½largeheadofcauliflower,cut
intoflorets1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder2largetomatoes,finelychoppedsalt
boiledriceandalentildish,suchasTarkaDal,orPooris,toserve
1Heathalftheoilinaheavy-basedfryingpanoverahighheat,addthepeppercorns,clovesandcorianderseedsandfryuntiltheysizzle.Addtheonionsandfryuntiltheystarttobrown,thenreducetheheatandcontinuecookingfor8–10minutesuntiltheyareverysoft.Stirinthecoconutandcontinuetobrownfor2–3minutes.2Removefromtheheat,leavetocoolslightlythentransfertoablenderwithalittlewaterandblitztoafinepaste.Setaside.3Heattheremainingoilinalargefryingpanoverahighheat,addthecauliflowerandstir-fryforacoupleofminutes.Addthegroundspices,tomatoesandsaltandcookforafurther5minutes.4Addthereservedcoconutpaste,pourin150mlwaterandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor10–12minutes,untilthecaulifloweriscookedbutfirm.5SeasontotasteandservehotwithriceandalentildishlikeTarkaDalorwithpooris.
KobiVatanaNuShak
[GUJARATI-STYLECABBAGEANDPEASSTIR-FRY]
Gujarativegetariancookingisverydelicateastheflavoursofthevegetablesarehighlightedwithjustafewherbsandspices,suchasgreenchilliandginger,andarenotusuallycookedinaheavycurrybaseaswithalotofnorthIndiancooking.Thisrecipeworkswellifthecabbageisveryfinelyshredded.Itshouldlooktranslucentandshinywhencooked.Youcanuseredcabbagehereandswapthepeasfortinnedblackchickpeasifyouwish.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING45minutes
2freshgreenchillies,finelychopped1teaspoongratedfreshrootginger2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspoonblackmustardseeds½teaspooncuminseeds
largepinchofasafoetida1teaspoongroundturmeric½smallwhitecabbage,shredded150ggreengardenpeas
(freshorfrozen)2tablespoonsfreshlygratedcoconutordesiccatedcoconut,togarnishsalt
1Crushthechilliesandgingertoapasteinapestleandmortarorspicemill.2Heattheoilinaheavy-basedornon-sticksaucepanandaddthemustardseeds.Astheybegintopop,addthecuminseedsandasafoetidaandcookfor10seconds,thenstirinthechilli-gingerpaste.Sprinkleintheturmericandaddthecabbageandpeasatonce.Seasonwithsaltandstirfor4–5minutesuntilthevegetablesstarttoturntranslucent.Coverthepanandcookoveralow–mediumheatfor20minutes.Thesaltwilldrawoutenoughmoisturefromthecabbagetocookit.3Servehot,sprinkledwiththecoconut.
AlooPosto
[POTATOESCOOKEDWITHPOPPYSEEDS]
Whitepoppyseedsor‘posto’arepopularinBengalicookeryfortheirabilitytothickenandflavouradish.PoppyseedpasteisabaseforseveralvegetablecurriesinBengal.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING40minutes
3tablespoonswhitepoppyseeds2tablespoonsmustardorvegetableoil1teaspoonnigellaseeds(kalonji)2freshgreenchillies,finelydiced2largepotatoes,peeledandcubed1teaspoongroundturmericsalt
1Makeapoppyseedpaste.Youcandothisinseveralways–bycrushingtheseedswithsomewaterinapestleandmortar,whichcanbeabittimeconsuming,byblitzingtheseedswithsomewaterinaspiceorcoffeemillorbygrindingtheseedstoapowderinaspicemill,thenmixingthemwithwater.2Heatthemustardoilinafryingpanoverahighheattosmokingpoint,thenreducetheheatandaddthenigellaseedsandchillies.Ifusingvegetableoil,warmitbeforeaddingtheseeds.Fryforafewsecondsthentipinthepotatoes.3Increasetheheat,addtheturmeric,seasonwithsaltandfrythepotatoesforacoupleofminutes,thenstirinthepoppyseedpasteandaddenoughwatertobarelycoverthepotatoes.Bringtotheboil,reducetheheatandsimmerfor30–35minutesuntilthepotatoesaretender.4Removefromtheheatandseasontotaste.Youcanservethisdishdryorwithabitofsauce(whichishowIpreferit),dependingonyourpreference.
SaagAloo
[SPINACHWITHPOTATOES]
Potatoesareoftenaddedtovegetabledishesforbulkandtexture.ThisnorthIndiandishispopularinIndianhomesaswellasinrestaurantsbecauseofitsstrikingcolour,creamytasteandthewideavailabilityofspinach.Ifmakingthisinadvance,addthespinachatthelastminutewhenyoureheatthecurry.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING35minutes
2tablespoonsvegetableoil½teaspooncuminseeds1onion,finelychopped1freshgreenchilli,diced1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste1tomato,finelychopped1teaspoongarammasala2potatoes,peeledandcubed450gfreshspinach,washed,drainedandfinelychoppedsalt
1Heattheoilinaheavy-basedpanoverahighheat,addthecuminseedsandfryfor10secondsuntiltheydarken.Addtheonionandchilliandfryfor5–6minutesuntilsoft.2Stirintheginger-garlicpasteandtomatoandcookoveralowheatfor2–3minutes,untilmushy.3Addthegarammasalaandthepotatoesandseasonwithsalt.Addenoughwatertobarelycoverthepotatoesandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor25minutesuntilthepotatoesaresoft.Addthespinach,seasontotaste,heatthroughandserve.
Oondhiyoon
[MIXEDVEGETABLESWITHAJOWANANDCOCONUT]
ThisGujaratidelicacymakesthemostofvegetablessuchasaubergines,peasandsweetpotatoes,whichareattheirfreshestintheIndianwinter.Ichopawholebananainitsskinandplaceitontopofthecurrywhileit’scookingtogivethedishadistinctivesweetfragrance.Cutthevegetablesintoequal-sizedpiecesforevencooking.
Serves4PREPARATION→1hourCOOKING1hour
2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspooncuminseeds1teaspoonajowanseeds4smallaubergines,quartered3smallpotatoes,peeledandquartered1largesweetpotato,
peeledandroughlychopped90ggreengardenpeas(freshorfrozen)1carrot,peeledandchopped
2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste2freshgreenchillies,mincedalargehandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,finelychoppeda
largehandfuloffreshfenugreekleaves(methi),washedandfinelychoppedalargehandfuloffreshlygratedordesiccatedcoconut1teaspoongroundturmeric
1teaspooncastersugar1ripebanana,cutintoquarters(skinlefton)saltRotisorPooris,toserve
1Heattheoilinalargepanoverahighheatandaddthecuminandajowanseeds.Whentheydarken,addallthevegetables.Mixwellandstir-fryfor5–6minutes.2Addtheremainingingredientsoneaftertheother,seasonwithsaltandmix.Placethechoppedbananaontop.Pourinalittlewater,coverandcookoveralowheatfor45–50minutes,stirringoccasionally,untilthevegetablesaretender.Seasontotasteandservehotwithrotisorpooris.
BombayFrankiePurisSevSevPuriVegetablePakoraChickenSamosasKothimbirVadiAlooBondaMasalaCutletsVatanePoheDahiVadaPavBhajiSabudanaVadaSabudanaKhichdiUpmaAlooTikkiMurghPankhiMasalaMacchiKeCutletMuttonKeKofte
EACHREGIONININDIAHASITSOWNSPECIALSTREETFOODBASEDONWHATGROWSLOCALLYANDTHEFOODPREFERENCESANDRELIGIOUSRULESOFTHEPOPULATION.
InIndia,sharingone’sfoodisalmostasimportantaseatingitoneself.Indiansseemtothinkoffoodallthetime.Theymighteatbreakfastbeforeleavinghomebutbuyanibbleontheirwaytowork,thenawaitatiffinfromhomeatlunchtime.Theywouldprobablystopatastreetfoodcartonthewayhome,haveasnackbeforedinnerandthensitdowntoafamilymeal.Itispossiblyoneofthetopthreetopicsofconversationatthisverymomentinmanypartsofthecountry!ThishappensalloverIndia,bothinruralandurbanareas.
Snacks,sidesandstreetfoodhavemanythingsincommon.Theyareservedinsmallportions,theytendtosurpriseandexcitethepalatewiththeirvibrantflavoursandtexturesandtheycanoftendoubleupasamainmeal.So,forinstance,babysamosas,whicharetriangularpastriesstuffedwithspicedpotatoes,vegetables,paneerormeat,maybeservedasacrispsideinalavishfeast,alargersamosacouldbeeatenatteatimewithadipandastreetcartmightbefryingtheseatthelastminutetotemptpassers-bywiththeirfragrance.Roamingstreetvendorscarrybasketsofsamosastosell.
Thesefingerfoodsareoftenfriedtoasucculentcrispnessandservedwithhot,tangyorsweetchutneys.EachregioninIndiaisfamousforaparticularsnackandthelocalsareunderstandablyproudofit.Spicedflakedricecalled‘poha’isservedwithsweetfried‘jalebis’inIndoreincentralIndia.‘Bhelpuri’,adelightfulmixofpuffedrice,gramflourstraws,savourybiscuits,potatoes,tangy,sweettamarindchutneyandahotchilliandcorianderchutneyiseateneverywhere.Hollowpurisfilledwithsproutsandtamarindwaterarecalled‘pani-puri’,‘puchka’,‘gol-guppa’,‘gup-chup’or‘panikebataashe’.
AlthoughasideisnotservedwitheveryIndianmeal,itisonewayofmakingitabitmorespecial,ifoneisentertainingorforspecialfeasts.SidessuchasvegetablefrittersandricecakesarepopularinGujarat,wheretheyarecalled‘farsan’.Thesearesotemptingthatpeopleofteneatthemontheirownasalightmeal.
Indiaisoneofthelargestteaproducersintheworldanditisoneofthecountry’smostpopulardrinks.TeainHindiis‘chai’,sowhenWestern
restaurantsservechaitea,theyareactuallysellingteatea!Whenspicesareaddedtotea,itiscalled‘masalachai’.EverystreetcornerinIndiawillhaveateastallwithayoungemployeeeverreadytodeliverroomservicetonearbybusinesses.
MASTERCLASS
HOWTOMAKECHAATMASALA
Chaatsaresavouryfoods,madewithavarietyofingredients,thatarehighontasteandamixoftextures.Chaatcanalsodenoteasaladbutismostcommonlyassociatedwithstreetfood.Theywillalwaysbedrizzledwithanassortmentofhighlyflavouredchutneys,freshcorianderandcrispbitsofsomekind.Theyarefinishedwith‘chaatmasala’whichisadistinctive,sour,salty,dryspicemix.Italwayscontainsblacksaltor‘kalanamak’,auniquerocksaltthathasastrongsulphuricsmell,alongwithchilli,cuminandamchoor(driedmangopowder),althoughdifferentcooksmayvarytheproportionsinkeepingwithpersonalpreferences.Kalanamakisquitedifferenttothewhitesaltusedincookingandcannotbesubstituted.Itisusedasafinishingsaltinchaatsandyogurtraitas,andisavailableaslargecrystalswhichlookalmostblackorasafinepinkpowder.Chaatmasalaisavailablecommerciallyinpacks.TheseareverygoodandmostpeopleinIndiawouldbuythemforconvenienceratherthanmakingthemixathome.
Makessmallbatchofabout25g
YOUWILLNEED:1teaspooncuminseeds1teaspooncorianderseeds1teaspoonamchoor(driedmangopowder)1teaspoonpowderedblacksalt(kala
namak)1teaspoongroundblackpepper½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder–asmallfryingpan–aspicemillorpestleandmortar–30mlcleanjartostorethespiceblend
1Heatthefryingpanoverahighheat,addthecuminandcorianderseeds
anddry-toastforafewseconds.
2Whentheydarken,tipthemintoaspicemillormortar,coolforaminutethencrushthemtoafinepowder.
3Addtheremainingingredientsandmixwell.Transfertoacleanjarandstoreinacool,dark,dryplace.Usewithin2months.
BombayFrankie
[SPICYWRAPS]
ApopularstreetfoodsnackinMumbai,thisissoldfromtrailersinsomepartsofthecity.Thedistinctivechaatmasalamixsprinkledoverattheendgivesitasavoury,tangytaste.
Makes8wrapsPREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING30minutes
Forthestuffing3tablespoonswhitewinevinegar4freshgreenorredchillies,finelychopped(2forthevinegardipand2forthemince)2tablespoonsvegetableoil2onions,finelydiced1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongarammasala500glambmincelargepinchofchaatmasalasaltForthewrapsvegetableoil,forshallow-frying8Rotis2free-rangeeggs,beatenandseasonedwithsaltandpepper
1Combinethevinegarand2chilliesinasmallglassbowlandsetaside.2Heattheoilinasaucepanoverahighheat,addhalftheonionsandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft.Reservetheremainingonionsforthegarnish.3Addtheginger-garlicpaste,theremainingchillies,turmericandgarammasala.Mixwell.Stirintheminceandseasonwithsalt.Cookfor10–12minutes,breakingupthemincewithawoodenspoon,untildone.4Tofinishtherotis,heatatablespoonofoilinashallowfryingpanoverahigh
heat.Dipeachrotiintothebeateneggandfryonbothsidesfor2–3minutesuntilgoldenbrown.Removeandsetasidetodrainonkitchenpaper.5Toassemble,placeoneoftherotisonaservingplate.Arrangesomeofthemincedownthecentre.Drizzlewithsomeofthereservedchilli-vinegarmixture,includingafewchoppedchillies.Sprinklesomeofthereserved,choppedrawonionandchaatmasalaontopandfoldthewrapintoaroll.Maketheremainingwrapsupinasimilarwayandserve.
Puris
[FLAT,CRISPBISCUITS]
Thesepurisorpoorisareeatenaspartofothersnacks,asinSevPuriorontheirown.Theyaresometimesflavouredwithspicessuchascuminorajowan.Typicallytheyareabout3.5cmindiametersocanbeeateninasinglemouthful.Slightlylargeronesarecalled‘mathris’.
Makes40-50purisPREPARATION→15minutes,plus30minutesrestingtimeCOOKING30minutes
250gplainflour,plusextrafordusting(ifnecessary)90gfinesemolinapinchofajowanorcuminseeds1teaspoonsalt4tablespoonsvegetableoil,plusextrafordeep-frying150–180mltepidwater,asneeded
1Combinetheflour,semolina,seedsandsaltinabowl.Pourintheoilandmixwithyourfingers.2Pourinthetepidwater,alittleatatime,untilyouhaveafirmyetspringydough.Kneadwellforafewminutes,thenplacebackinthebowl,coverthedoughwithaclean,dampteatowelandleavetorestatroomtemperaturefor30minutes.3Dividethedoughinto40–50smallballs,eachthesizeofacherry.Rolltheseoutintosmalldiscs(onaflouredsurfaceifthedoughissticky)andsettoonesideonasheetofgreaseproofpaper.Prickeachpuriseveraltimeswithafork.Thisensuresthattheydonotpuffupwhencooked.4Heatenoughoilinadeepfryingpantofrythepurisinasinglelayer.Tocheckiftheoilishotenough,dropasmallpieceofthedoughin.Itshouldriseuptothesurfacewithinacoupleofseconds.Ifitrisesupimmediately,theoilistoo
hot.Reducetheheatandwaitforafewseconds.5Reducetheheattomediumandfryabatchofpurisfor4–5minutesuntiltheyaregoldenbrown.Removewithaslottedspoonanddrainonkitchenpaper.6Youwillneedtoregulatetheheat,increasingthetemperatureoftheoileverytimeyouputinafreshbatchofpurisandreducingtheheatwhentheybegintochangecolour.7Youcanstorethesepurisinanairtightcontainerforupto2months.
Sev
[CRISPGRAMFLOURSTRAWS]
Sevcomesinmanythicknesses,thefinestoneiscalled‘nylonsev’.Usuallythethinneronesareusedtotopstreetfoodsnacksandthethickervariety,sometimescalled‘ganthia’,iseatenonitsown.Thethicknessdependsonthesizeoftheholesintheequipmentused.Traditionallya‘sevmaker’isusedbutthiscanbesubstitutedwithapotatoricer.
Serves4PREPARATION→20minutesCOOKING15minutes
150ggramflour1teaspoongroundturmeric1tablespoonhotvegetableoil,plusextrafordeep-fryingsaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
1Seasontheflourwithsaltandpepperandcombinewiththeturmericandthehotoilinabowl.Mixwell,thenpourin70–80mlcoldwater,alittleatatime,tomakeaveryfirmdough.Greaseyourpalmswithalittleoilandkneadthedoughfor4–5minutesuntilsmooth.2Greasetheinsideofasevmakerorpotatoricerandputthedoughin.Lineaplatewithgreaseproofpaperorfoil.Pressthedoughintoshortstrandsontothelinedplate.3Heatenoughoilinadeepfryingpantocome6cmupthesidesofthepanoverahighheat.Testthetemperatureoftheoil(seeStep4).4Liftthenestofsevstrandsandlowerthemgentlyintothehotoil.Thesevwillsizzleintheoilandthissizzlingwillstopafter15–20secondswhentheseviscooked.Itshouldbelightgoldenincoloursoflipthenestoverandcookforafewsecondsbeforeliftingoutontoaplatelinedwithkitchenpaper.5Whencool,crushlightlywithyourhandstomakeshortlengths(about1cm
each).Youcanstorethesevinanairtightcontainerforupto1month.
SevPuri
[CRISPFLATPURISWITHSPICEDPOTATOES,DRIZZLEDWITHSWEET,HOT,
SOURCHUTNEYS]
Aportionofsevpurinormallyhas6puris.Thelevelofheatandsweetnesscanbepersonalisedbyaddingmoreorlessofthecorianderandmintchutneyandthesweettamarindchutney.Ifyouaddadollopofyogurtoneachpuribeforefinishingthedishwith‘sev’,itiscalled‘dahibatatapuri’.
Makes24sevpurisPREPARATION→20minutesCOOKING15minutes
24Puris2potatoes,boiled,peeledandroughlymashed,seasonedwithsalt,pepperandlemonjuice100gSweetTamarindChutney100gCorianderandMintChutneyyogurt(optional)pinchofchaatmasala80gGramFlourStraws(Sev)afewfreshcorianderleaves,chopped,toserve
1Assemblethepurisonaplate.2Placeabitofthecooledpotatomixtureontopanddrizzleateaspoonfulofeachchutneyoverthepotato.(Ifmakingdahibatatapuri,addaspoonfulofyogurthere.)3Sprinklewithchaatmasalaandsev,andservetoppedwiththecoriander.4Eachpuriistobeeateninasinglemouthfultoenjoythecompleterangeofflavours,texturesandaromas.
VegetablePakora
[VEGETABLEFRITTERS]
Thesedeep-friedfrittersarealsoknownas‘bajji’insouthIndia.Avarietyofvegetablescanbeused,eithersinglyorinacombination(asinthisrecipe).Theconsistencyofthebatteriskeyingettingthisreciperight–itshouldbethickenoughtoholdthevegetablestogetherorcoatapieceofvegetable.Iwoulddescribetheconsistencyasthatofathickcustard–itshouldfalloffaspooneasily.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING25minutes
½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowderpinchofajowanseeds5tablespoonsgramflourahandfuloffreshspinachleaves,finelychopped1carrot,peeledandgratedcoupleofcauliflowerflorets,grated2tablespoonsgratedwhitecabbagevegetableoil,fordeep-fryingsaltCorianderandPeanutChutneyorSweetTamarindChutney,toserve
1Combinethechillipowder,salttoseason,ajowanseedsandgramflourinabowl,adding180–200mlcoldwatertomakeathickbatter.2Foldinthevegetables,evenlycoatingthemwiththespiceandsaltmixture.3Heatenoughoilinadeepfryingpanoverahighheatsothatthefritterswillbesubmergedwhenyoucookthem.4Frythemixtureinbatches,droppinginasmanydessertspoonfulsasthepanwillhold,withenoughroomtoflipthefrittersover.Fryfor3–4minutesuntil
golden,thenflipoverandcookforafurthercoupleofminutestocookthemevenly.Transfertokitchenpapertodrain.Serveimmediately,withCorianderandPeanutChutneyorSweetTamarindChutneyalongside.
MASTERCLASS
ONIONBHAJIAS–OnionFritters
OftencalledonionbhajioutsideIndia,thisisaverypopularIndiansnackallovertheworld.However,theround,stodgyballssoldcommerciallyintheWestareaworldapartfromthedelicate,crisp,irregularlyshapedonesmadeathome.Homemadebhajiasarefrittersofsweet,cookedonionsheldtogetherbyasalty,spicedbatterunliketheonesyoubuyinaWesterntakeaway,whichtastemostlyofflour.InIndia,anonion‘bhaji’wouldmeanastir-fryofonionsratherthanthefritter!Friedsnacksareoftenflavouredwithadigestivespicecalledajowan.Ithasthescentoforeganoandissharpintaste.Ifyoucan’tfindit,substituteitwithcuminseedswhicharealsoknownfortheirdigestiveproperties.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING25minutes
YOUWILLNEED:½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowderpinchofajowanseeds100ggramflour2mediumonions,thinlyslicedvegetableoil,fordeep-fryingsaltCorianderandPeanutChutneyorSweetTamarindChutney,toserve
1Combinethechillipowder,salttoseason,ajowanseedsandgramflourinabowl.Addenoughwatertomakeathick,custard-likebatter.Foldinsomeoftheonions,evenlycoatingthemwiththespiceandsaltmixture.ThetextureofthebattershouldbelikethatforPakoras.Itisbesttoaddasmallbatchofonionstothebatteratatime,asthisensuresthatthesaltinthebatterdoesnotdrawoutthejuicesoftheonionsittinginitandmakethebatterrunny.
2Heatenoughoilinadeepfryingpantoholdasinglelayeroffrittersover
ahighheat.Testthetemperatureoftheoilbydroppinginasliceofonion–theoilshouldsizzle.Frythemixtureinbatches,droppinginasmanydessertspoonfulsasthepanwillhold,withenoughroomtoflipthefrittersover.Fryfor3–4minutesuntilgolden,flipthemoverandcookforafurthercoupleofminutestocookthemevenly.Transfertokitchenpapertodrain.ServeimmediatelywithCorianderandPeanutChutneyorSweetTamarindChutney.
MASTERCLASS
VEGETABLESAMOSAS–TriangularVegetableParcels
ThesearethemostcommonformofsamosaandcomefromnorthernIndia.Themosttraditionalfillingusedismadewithspicedpotatoes.Peasareaddedwheninseason,intheIndianwinter.
Makes16samosasPREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING40minutes
YOUWILLNEED:vegetableoil,fordeep-fryingForthepastry300gplainflour,plusextrafordusting½teaspoonsalt½teaspoonajowanseeds(optional)2tablespoonsvegetableoilorgheeForthe
filling1teaspooncuminseeds2tablespoonsvegetableoil2freshgreenchillies,finelydiced(seedsandall)1teaspoongratedfreshrootginger
2largepotatoes,boiled,peeledandfinelycubed1teaspoonamchoor(driedmangopowder)or1tablespoonlemonjuicesalt
1Tomakethepastry,combinetheflour,saltandajowanseedsinabowl.Heattheoilormeltthegheeinasmallsaucepanoverahighheatandpourthisintotheflour.Carefullyfoldintheoilorghee,thenpourin3–4tablespoonsofcoldwaterandmixwelluntilitresemblesbreadcrumbs.Carefullyadd90–100mlmorewater,asnecessary,untilyouhaveaspringybutfirmdough.Kneadwellfor3–4minutesthensetasidetorestwhileyoumakethefilling.
2Heatafryingpanoverahighheatandaddthecuminseeds.Dry-toast
untiltheydarken,thentipthemintoamortarorspicemillandcrushorblendtoafinepowder.
3Addtheoiltothesamepanandfrythechilliesandgingerfor1minute,thentipinthepotatoandamchoor.Seasonwithsalt,tipinthetoastedcuminandmixthoroughly.Dividethisinto16equalparts.
4Dividethedoughinto8equalpartsandformintoballs.Flattenoneoftheballsandrolloutonaflouredsurfaceintoaflatdiscabout15cmindiameter.Cutthediscinhalf.Moistenthesidethat’sastraightlinewithwater.Foldthehalfintoaconeandpinchthetiptosealit.Pressdownthemoistsidetoseal.Fillitwithonepartofthepotatomix.Foldovertheopenedgeandpresstogethertoseal.Make16samosassimilarly(onerounddiscwillmaketwo).
5Heatenoughoilinadeepfryingpantocompletelysubmergethesamosas,withoutlettingthemsitonthebottomofthepan.Whenveryhot,reducetheheattomediumanddeep-frythesamosas,acoupleatatime,for5–6minutes.Fliphalfwaythroughcooking,tofryevenly,untiltheyturngoldenbrown,thenremovewithaslottedspoonandtransfertokitchenpapertodrain.
ChickenSamosas
[TRIANGULARCHICKENPARCELS]
TheoriginsofthesamosaareprobablyMiddleEasternbuttodayitisoneofIndia’sbest-knownsnacks.TheAin-i-Akbari,asixteenth-centuryMughaldocument,liststherecipefor‘Qutab’,whichthepeopleofHindustancall‘sanbusa’.Interestingly,itgoesontosaythatthemixofmeat,flour,gheeandspicescanbecookedintwentydifferentways.InIndiatherearetwokindsofsamosascalled,forease,theGujaratisamosaandthePunjabisamosa.Thefirstonehasathinnercrustandismadewithpastrysheetsasinthisrecipe.ThePunjabisamosahasathickercrustmadebyrollingoutdoughasintheVegetableSamosasrecipe.IntheWest,wherehistoricallymostmigrantsfromtheIndiansubcontinentarefromthenorth,thePunjabisamosaismorewidelyseen.Traditionally,samosaswouldbedeep-friedinhotoilbutIprefertobakethese.
Makes8samosasPREPARATION→20minutesCOOKING50minutes
1skinlesschickenbreast1tablespoonvegetableoil,plusextraforbrushing¼whitecabbage,finelyshredded2springonions,finelychopped1carrot,peeledandgrated1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepperasmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,finelychopped2teaspoonsplainflour8sheetsoffilopastrysaltMintandCorianderChutney,toserve
1Putthechickenbreastinapan,coverwithlightlysaltedwaterandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor20minutesuntilitiscookedthrough.Drain,coolandshred.2Preheattheovento180ºC/gasmark4andlineabakingtraywithgreaseproofpaper.3Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheatandaddthecabbage,springonionsandcarrot.Stir-fryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft.4Addtheturmeric,chillipowder,salttoseason,pepperandcoriander.Cookforacoupleofminutes,thenstirintheshreddedchickenandremovefromtheheat.5Mixtheflourwithalittlewatertomakearunnypaste.Layoutthefilopastrysheetsandcuteachsheetinhalflengthways.Brushonestripwithoilandstackitovertheotherstrip,makingatotalof8double-layerstrips.6Spoonaneighthofthechickenmixturetowardstheleftcornerendofonedouble-layerstrip.Brushthewaterandflourmixturealongalltheedgesofthepastry,thenfoldthepastrytomakeatriangle:liftthetopleftcornerandfolditoverthefillingtobeinlinewiththebottomedge,makingatriangleshape.Nowlifttherightbottomcornerovertothetopandthenthetopleftdownagain.Carryonuntilyouhaveatriangularparcel.Makesurethattheedgesarewellsealedbypressingthemtogether.Brushwithoilonallsidesandplaceonthelinedbakingtray.Repeatfortheremainingandpastrysheets.7Bakefor15–20minutes,turningthemoveroncehalfwaythroughtocookthemevenly,untilgoldenandcrisp.ServehotwithMintandCorianderChutneyfordippingalongside.
KothimbirVadi
[HERBYCORIANDERFRITTERS]
ThisMaharashtrianrecipeismadeinseveralways.Someliketoaddafewmorevegetableslikecarrots,oraddspicessuchascrushedcorianderseedstothemix.Ihavefoundthisagoodwaytouseupbigbunchesofcoriander,andserveitasasidetoamainmeal.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING40minutes
1teaspoonwhitesesameseeds150ggramflour2tablespoonsriceflour1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste1freshgreenchilli,finelyminced1teaspoongroundturmericalargehandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,finelychopped1tablespoonlemonjuicevegetableoil,forshallow-fryingandgreasinglargepinchofbicarbonateofsodasalt
1Heatasmallfryingpanoverahighheat,addthesesameseedsanddry-toastuntilgolden,thentipthemintoabowl.Addthegramandricefloursand250–280mlcoldwatertothebowlmakeathickbatter,thenwhiskwelltoremoveanylumps.2Stirintheginger-garlicpaste,chilli,turmeric,corianderleaves,lemonjuice,1tablespoonofoilandseasonwithsalt.Gentlystirinthebicarbonateofsoda.3Greaseaheatproofdishthatwillfitintoasteamerwithoil.Pourthemixturein–thebattershouldbe2cmthicksoyoumayhavetodothisinbatches.Steamitfor15minutesoruntilaknifeinsertedintothecentrecomesoutclean.Leavetocoolcompletelythencutitintobite-sizedpieces.4Heatenoughoiltocoverthebaseofafryingpanoverahighheat.Shallow-frythepiecesfor3–4minutesuntiltheyaregoldenallover,andservewarm.
AlooBonda
[CRISPPOTATOANDGARLICBALLS]
TheseareeatenasasnackinsouthernIndia,butbabyversionsarealsoservedinathalimealalongsidemaincurriesandvegetablesidedishes.Thethinbattershouldhaveapouringconsistency,sothatitjustaboutcoatsthepotatoballs.
Makes8smallballsPREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING40minutes
2largepotatoes,boiled,peeledandmashed1teaspoongroundturmeric2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshcorianderleaves2freshgreenchillies,finelychopped
(seedsandall)2garliccloves,finelychopped1tablespoonvegetableoil,plusextrafordeep-frying1teaspoonblackmustardseedslargepinchofasafoetida
1teaspooncuminseedssaltWhiteCoconutChutney,toserveForthebatter150ggramflour½teaspoongroundturmeric
1Combinethemashedpotatoes,turmeric,corianderleaves,greenchilliesandgarlicinabowlandseasonwithsalt.2Heatthetablespoonofoilinasmallpanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheystarttocrackleaddtheasafoetidaandcuminseeds.Fryforafewseconds,thenpourthisintothepotatomixtureandmixwell.Dividethepotatomixtureinto8smallballsandsetaside.3Placethegramflour,turmericandsalttoseasoninabowl,andwhiskin200–225mlcoldwatertomakeabatterofpouringconsistency.Whiskwelltoremoveanylumps.4Heatenoughoiltosubmergetheballsinadeepfryingpanoverahighheat.Whenitisnearlysmoking,dipeachpotatoballinthebatteranddeep-fry,afewballsatatime,for5–6minutesuntilgolden.Reducetheheattopreventtheball
frombrowningtooquickly.Whentheballsaregolden,removethemwithaslottedspoonandtransfertokitchenpapertodrain.5ServehotwithThengaiChutney.
MasalaCutlets
[SPICYVEGETABLECUTLETS]
InIndiancooking,acutletisabatter-friedcakemadeofmincedmeatorvegetables.Thevegetarianversionismorepopularbecauseitkeepsbetterifcarriedtoworkorschool,andbecauseithasmoreappealinacountrywithsomanyvegetarians.Thesearegreatatteatimeorinalunchboxastheytastegoodhotorcold.
Makes8cutletsPREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING45minutes
2largepotatoes,boiled,peeled,mashedandcooled1carrot,peeledandgratedahandfulofgreenbeans,washedandfinelydicedahandfuloffinelychoppedfresh
corianderleavesahandfuloffinelychoppeddill2freshgreenchillies,finelydiced(seedsandall)1teaspoongroundturmeric
1teaspoongroundcoriander1teaspoongroundcumin1teaspoonamchoor(driedmangopowder)or1tablespoonlemonjuicevegetableoil,for
shallow-frying150gbreadcrumbssaltMintandCorianderChutney,toserve
1Mixalltheingredientsexceptthebreadcrumbsandoiltogetherinabowl.2Heatenoughoiltoliberallycoverthebaseofafryingpanoverahighheat.Shapethemixtureinto8round,flatcakes,dipinthebreadcrumbstocoatalloverandshallow-fry,acoupleatatime,for4–5minutesuntilgoldenbrownoneachside.Removeanddrainonkitchenpaper.3ServehotwithMintandCorianderChutney.
VatanePohe
[FLAKEDRICEWITHPEAS]
Ricethatiscooked,drained,flattenedanddriediscalled‘poha’(‘pohe’istheplural).Thisisavailableindifferentthicknesses:fine,whichisfriedtomakeacrispsnackthatwillkeepforafewdays,mediumorthick,bothusedfordishessuchasthisone,dependingonpersonalpreference.Ilikeusingthemediumvariety,asithasalessstarchyfeel.Finepohawillnotworkforthisrecipeasittendstogetmushywhenwashed.Asitispre-cooked,pohaonlyneedsafewminutesofsoakingbeforeonecanbrieflycookitwithspices.Whensoaked,theflakesswellupintoamassthatcanbeeasilyseparatedwithafork.
Serves4PREPARATION→20minutesCOOKING20minutes
200gIndianriceflakes(poha)1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspooncastersugar1tablespoonvegetableoil1teaspoonblackmustardseeds½teaspooncuminseedslargepinchofasafoetida2freshgreenchillies,slitlengthways10freshor15driedcurry
leaves100ggreengardenpeas(freshorfrozen)2teaspoonslemonjuiceafewfreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnishsalt
1Rinsethericeflakesinacolanderundercoldrunningwateranddrain.Sprinklethemwiththeturmeric,sugarandsalttoseason.2Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheystarttocrackle,addthecuminseeds,asafoetida,chilliesandcurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshcurryleaves,astheywillsplutter).Fryforaminute,thenstirinthepeas.Reducetheheattolowandcookfor6–7minutesuntilthepeasaretender.Addtheflakedrice,increasetheheattohighandmixwell.Cookfor2–3minutesthenreducetheheat,sprinkleinabout4tablespoonsofwater,coverandcookfor7–8minutes.Drizzleinthelemonjuiceandremovefromtheheat.
3Servehot,garnishedwiththecoriander.
DahiVada
[LENTILFRITTERSINYOGURT]
Thesearecalled‘dahibhalla’inPunjabiand‘thayirvadai’inTamilandarepopularalloverIndia.Thefrittersor‘vadas’arecrispwhenfried,butafterthey’vebeensoakedintheyogurtforanhourorso,theybecomewonderfullysoftandsquidgy.
Serves4PREPARATION→20minutes,plus2hourssoakingtimeCOOKING25minutes
150gsplitwhiteuradlentils,washedanddrained1freshgreenchilli,mincedvegetableoil,fordeep-frying300gnaturalyogurt2teaspoonscastersugar1teaspooncuminseeds½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowderafewsprigsoffreshcorianderleaves,finelychoppedsalt
1Soakthelentilsinplentyofwaterforatleast2hours.Drainoffthewaterandblitzthelentilsinablenderwithenoughfreshwatertojustcoverthem,untilyouhaveasmoothgrain-freepaste,theconsistencyofthickcustard.Seasonwithsalt,stirinthechilliandsetaside.2Heattheoilinadeepfryingpanoverahighheat.Totestthetemperature,dropinatinyballofthelentilbatter.Itshouldrisetothetopinacoupleofseconds.Gentlydropafewseparatetablespoonsofthebatterintotheoil.Fryfor3–4minutes,turningthemoverafewtimestobrownthemevenly.Whendone,removethefritterswithaslottedspoonanddrainthemonkitchenpaper.Cooktheremainingfrittersinthesameway.3Inanotherbowl,whisktogethertheyogurt,salttoseasonandthesugar.
4Heatasmallfryingpanoverahighheat,addthecuminseedsanddry-toastuntiltheydarken,thentipthemintoapestleandmortarorspicemillandcrushorblendtoafinepowder.Stirhalfofthisintotheyogurtalongwithsomeofthechillipowder.5Justbeforeserving,soakthefrittersintheyogurt.Todothis,diptheminwater,squeezethemout,thenaddthemtotheyogurt.Servecool,sprinkledwiththeremainingcuminandchillipowderandcorianderleaves.
PavBhaji
[CRUSHEDVEGETABLECURRYWITHBUTTEREDROLLS]
Aquickstreetmeal,restaurantversionsofthistangy,wholesomecurrycomewithadollopofbutteranddicedonionsontop.
Serves4PREPARATION→20minutesCOOKING40minutes
2tablespoonsvegetableoil2mediumonions,finelydiced1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste2smallfreshgreenchillies,finelychopped3largetomatoes,finelydiced1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongroundcoriander1x400gcanofchickpeas,drainedandrinsed200gmixedrawvegetables,suchcarrotsand
beans(bothfinelydiced)andpeas2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshcorianderleavessalt
breadrollsandbutter,toserve
1Heattheoilinaheavy-basedfryingpan,addtheonionsandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft.2Addtheginger-garlicpasteandchilliesandfryforafewseconds,thenstirinthetomatoesandfryfor5–6minutesuntilverysoft.3Addthegroundspicesthenaddthechickpeasandthevegetables.Seasonwithsalt.4Pourinenoughwatertojustcoverthevegetablesandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheat,coverandcookfor25–30minutesuntilthevegetablesareverysoft.Roughlymashthemixturewithapotatomasher.Sprinkleoverthecorianderleaves.5Buttertherollsandplacebutteredsidedownonahotfryingpan.Fryforaminuteuntilgoldenandservealongsidethecurry.
MASTERCLASS
KHANDVI–SoftGramFlourRolls
ThisGujaratisnackoftenfeaturesinathali.Itisslightlytrickytomake,asyouneedtogettheconsistencyofthebatterjustright–itneedstobelikeathickcustardthat’sspreadable,sothatwhenit’scoolitsetsintoathinsheetratherthanathickslab.InIndia,yogurtthathassouredoveracoupleofdaysisused.IntheWestyoucanaddlemonjuicetotheyogurttogiveitasourtaste.Withabitofpractice,you’llfindthisrecipereallyeasy.
Makesabout20rollsPREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING30minutes
YOUWILLNEED:200ggramflour200gnaturalyogurt1teaspoongroundturmeric2cmpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedandfinelygrated1freshgreenchilli,finely
minced1tablespoonvegetableoil,plusextraforbrushing1teaspoonblackorbrown
mustardseedspinchofasafoetidaafewsprigsoffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnish1tablespoonfreshor
frozengratedcoconut,togarnish1tablespoonlemonjuice,toservesalt
1Siftthegramflourintoabowl.Combinetheyogurtwith200mlcoldwaterandwhisktoasmoothconsistency.
2Combinetheflour,yogurtmixture,turmeric,gingerandchilli,seasonwithsaltandwhiskwellsothattherearenolumpsandyougetapouringconsistency.
3Brushametaltraywithsomeoil.
4Puttheflourmixtureintoaheavy-basedsaucepanandcookoveralowheatfor18–20minutes,stirringconstantlytopreventthemixturefromstickingtothebottomofthepan,untilitisthick.Bepatient–itwilltakeabitoftime.
5Oncethemixturehasthickenedenoughtocoatthebackofaladlecompletely,tasteitandcheckiftheflouriscooked;itshouldtastesmoothandmellow.Youcanalsobrushalittleontheoiledmetaltray,waitafewsecondsandcheckwhetheritliftsoffeasily.Removefromtheheatandquicklyspreadthemixturethinlyontotheoiledtraywhileitisstillveryhot.Leaveitcoolfor5–10minutes.
6Whenithascooled,cutthemixtureintolongstrips,about5cmwide,androlleachoneuptightly.Arrangeonaservingplate.
7Heatthetablespoonofoilinafryingpanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheybegintopop,tipintheasafoetida.Pourthismixtureovertherolls.
8Servecold,garnishedwiththecoriander,coconutandadrizzleoflemonjuice.
SabudanaVada
[SAVOURYSAGOANDPOTATOCAKES]
Sagoismanufacturedfromtapiocarootorcassava,mainlyinthestateofTamilNadu.However,localconsumptionisverylowduetothebeliefthatitisonlysuitableasapudding.MuchofthesagoproducedisexportedtootherregionssuchasMaharashtra,GujaratandMadhyaPradeshwherecookshavedevelopedavarietyofrecipessuchasthisone.Here,thesesagocakesareafavouriteteatimesnackorfastingfood.Sagocontainscomplexcarbohydratesthatdigestslowly,givingafeelingoffullness.TheircrisptexturegoeswellwithCorianderChutney.
Serves4(Makes10smallcakes)PREPARATION→15minutes,plus2hourssoakingtimeCOOKING45minutes
100gpearlsago2mediumpotatoes2tablespoonsroastedunsaltedpeanuts,finelycrushed2freshgreenchillies,minced(seedsandall)fewsprigsoffreshcorianderleaves,finelychopped1tablespoonriceflourvegetableoil,fordeep-fryingsalt
1Washthesagowell,thensoakitinenoughwatertocoveritby2.5cm.Leavefor2hours,thendrainthroughasieve,spreadoutonaclean,dryteatowelandleaveonthekitchencountertosoftenuntilthepotatoesarecooked.Youshouldbeabletosquashasagopearleasilybetweenthethumbandindexfingerwhenit’sreadytocook.2Meanwhile,boilthepotatoesintheirskinsuntilyoucanpierceoneeasilywithaknife.Cookingthemintheirskinswillhelpthemabsorblesswaterasthey
cook.3Peelandmashthepotatoes.Inabowl,combinethedrainedsago,potatoes,peanuts,chillies,coriander,riceflourandsalttoseason.Kneadwellforafewminutes,thenshapeinto10equallime-sizedballs.Flatteneachone.4Heatenoughoilfordeepfryinginalargefryingpanoverahighheat.Whenalmostsmoking,reducetheheatanddeep-frythepattiesinbatchesfor5–6minutes.Iftheybegintobreakup,dustthemwithriceflourbeforefryingthem.Servehot.
SabudanaKhichdi
[SPICEDPEARLSAGO]
Sagoismadefromtapiocastarchandissoldastiny‘pearls’.Youcanbuythemintwosizes:thesmallonesareusedinpuddingsandsomesavourydishesthatmakethemostoftheirstarchytexture.Iuselargesagopearlsforthisrecipeastheyfluffupintoseparategrains.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plus1hoursoakingtimeand3hoursdrainingtimeCOOKING20minutes
150gpearlsago80groastedunsaltedpeanuts,roughlycrushedpinchofcastersugar2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspooncuminseeds2freshgreenchillies,slitlengthways10freshor15driedcurryleaves1potato,peeledand
cutintosmalldice2tablespoonsfreshlygratedordesiccatedcoconut(soakedinwarmwaterfor30minutesanddrained,ifusingdesiccated)asmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnish2teaspoonslemonjuice
salt
1Washthesagowellthensoakitinenoughwatertocoveritby2.5cm.Leavefor1hour,thendrainthroughasieve,spreadoutonaclean,dryteatowelandleaveonthekitchencountertosoften.After3hours,thewatershouldbecompletelyabsorbed.Thedrainingtimecanvarydependingonthequalityofthesago–asagopearlshouldsquasheasilybetweenthethumbandindexfingerwhenitisreadytobecooked.2Mixthecrushedpeanuts,salttoseasonandsugarintothesago.Setaside.3Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheatandaddthecuminseeds.Fryuntiltheydarken,thenaddthechilliesandcurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter).Addthepotato,seasonwithsaltandfryfor4–5minutesuntilgolden.Reducetheheatandcookfor8–10minutesuntilthepotatoesaretender.
4Addthesago.Cookoveraverylowheat,stirring,for5–6minutesuntilthesagoissoftallthewaythrough.5Sprinkleoverthecoconut,corianderleavesandlemonjuiceandservehot.
Upma
[SAVOURYSEMOLINA]
ThissouthIndianbreakfastfoodcanalsobeeatenatteatime.Itssoftsquidgytextureandsavoury,slightlysweettastegoeswellwithCorianderandPeanutChutney.ItcanbemadewitheitherfineorcoarsesemolinabutIpreferthecoarseoneforitssandy,grainytexture.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING25minutes
200gcoarseorfinesemolina2tablespoonsvegetableoil1teaspoonblackmustardseeds½teaspooncuminseeds
2smallfreshgreenchillies,slitlengthways10freshor15driedcurryleaves1tablespoonunsaltedcashewnutslargepinchofasafoetida
4tablespoonsfrozengreenpeas1teaspooncastersugarasmallhandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,chopped,togarnish1tablespoonlemonjuicesalt
1Heatafryingpanoveramediumheat,addthesemolinaanddry-toastfor4–5minutesuntilitstartstoturnbrown.Tipintoabowlandsetaside.2Heattheoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheatthenaddthemustardseeds.Assoonastheystarttopop,addthecuminseedsandfryforafewsecondsuntilslightlydark,thenaddthechillies,curryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter),cashewnutsandasafoetida.Cookforafewsecondsuntilthecashewsstarttoturngolden.3Tipinthepeas,addthetoastedsemolina,sugarandseasonwithsalt.Standingawayfromthepan,pourin400mlboiling-hotwaterandbringtotheboil.Thehotwaterwillmakethesemolinaspluttersobecareful.4Reducetheheatandsimmerfor6–7minutes,stirring,untilallthewaterhasbeenabsorbedandthesemolinaleavesthesidesofthepan.5Loosenwithaforkandservehot,sprinkledwiththecorianderanddrizzled
withlemonjuice.
AlooTikki
[POTATOCAKES]
TheseareverypopularallovernorthandcentralIndiaasateatimeorstreetsnack,althoughpattiesmadewithmashedpotatoareeatenalloverIndia.Inthesouth,theyareflavouredwithmustardseedsandcurryleavesandarecalled‘bondas’,whereasonthestreetsofMumbai,theyareservedwithachickpeacurryandcalled‘pattice’.Theycanbeflavouredorplain,servedwithachickpeacurrysuchasCholay,orsimplywithsomesweetorhotchutneyandplainyogurt.
Makes8potatocakesPREPARATION→20minutesCOOKING35minutes
2largepotatoes,boiled,peeledandmashed1teaspoongroundturmericafewsprigsoffreshcorianderleaves,finelychopped1freshgreenchilli,finelydiced(seeds
andall)2slicesofwhitebread,soakedinwaterandsqueezedtoremoveallwatervegetableoil,forshallow-frying2tablespoonsplainflour
salt
1Combinethemashedpotatoinabowlwiththeturmeric,coriander,chilliandbread,seasonwithsaltandkneadtogether.Shapeinto8thick,flatrounds.2Heatenoughoiltoliberallycoverthebaseofafryingpanoverahighheat,dipeachpotatocakeintheflourandshallow-frythecakesacoupleatatimefor5–6minutes,turningthemoveruntilbothsidesaregolden.Removeanddrainonkitchenpaper.3Servehotwithcurry,orchutneyandplainyogurt.
MurghPankhiMasala
[MASALACHICKENWINGS]
InIndia,thiseasyrecipeiseatenasasnackathomeoratsmall,roadsiderestaurantscalled‘dhabas’whicharefoundonhighwaysandactastruckstops.Asmostlong-distancetruckdriversareofPunjabidescent,theseeateriesservenorthIndianfoodwhichiswholesomeandtasteshomemade.The‘dhabas’areearthyrestaurants,oftenopenairwithwoodentablesandbencheswherepeoplestopforaquickmeal.Cityfolkwillsometimesdriveouttoadhabaforthedelicious,freshfoodonoffer.Youcanswapthewingsforcubedchickenbreastifyouwantabonelessversion.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plus30minutesmarinatingtime(orideallyovernight)COOKING15minutes
1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1tablespoongroundcumin400gchickenwings,skinnedvegetableoil,fordeep-frying3tablespoonscornfloursalt
1Combinetheginger-garlicpaste,chillipowder,cuminandsalttoseasoninabowl.Tipinthewings,coattheminthemarinade,coverandmarinateforatleast30minutesorovernightinthefridgeifpossible.2Heatenoughoilfordeep-fryinginadeepfryingpan.Oncetheoilisveryhot,dipeachwinginthecornfloursothatitisevenlycoatedanddeep-frytheminbatchesfor6–7minutes.Makesurethattheyarecookedthroughbycuttingoneopentocheckthefleshiswhiteallthewaytothebone.Removewithaslottedspoonanddrainonkitchenpaper.Servehot.
MacchiKeCutlet
[INDIANFISHCAKES]
HerethefishisspicedandflavouredtotakeawaythesmellthatsomeIndiansfinddistasteful.Ihaveusedtinnedtunabutyoucouldcookandflakeanyfishsuchascod,coleyorevenfrozensalmon.InIndia,cookswoulduselocalfishsuchas‘rohu’inBengalor‘surmai’inMumbaiforthisrecipe.
Makes8fishcakesPREPARATION→15minutes,plus30minutessoakingtimeCOOKING20minutes
2x120gtinsoftunainbrine,welldrainedjuiceof1lemon½teaspooncuminseeds1freshgreenchilli,minced½teaspoongarammasala2slicesofwhitebread,soakedinwaterandsqueezedtoremoveallwaterahandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,finelychoppedafewsprigsofdill,finelychoppedvegetableoil,forshallow-frying2tablespoonsplainfloursaltMintandCorianderChutney,toserve
1Squeezeoutallthewaterfromthetunaandcombinethetunawiththelemonjuiceinamixingbowl.Setasidefor30minutes.2Heatasmallfryingpanoverahighheat,addthecuminseedsanddry-toastfor30secondsuntiltheydarken.Tipthemintoapestleandmortarorspicemillandcrushorblendtoafinepowder.3Addthecrushedcumin,chilliandgarammasalatothetunaandseasonwithsalt.
4Crumblethebreadintothebowl.Mixinthecorianderanddill.Shapethemixtureinto8equal-sizedballsandflatten.5Heatenoughoiltocoverthebaseofafryingpanoverahighheat.Dipeachfishpattyinflour,shakeofftheexcessandshallow-fryfor4–5minutesoneachsideuntilgoldenbrown.6DrainonkitchenpaperandservewarmwithMintandCorianderChutney.
MuttonKeKofte
[MINILAMBKOFTAS]
Thesearesosimpletoprepareandsodeliciousthatyouwillfindyourselfmakingthemquiteoftenonceyou’vetastedthem!InIndiatheyareservedasateatimeorpartysnack,orsometimesfoldedintospicycurriestobeeatenwitharoti.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING10minutes
150gleanlambmince1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste1freshgreenchilli,mincedafewsprigsoffreshcorianderleaves,finelychopped½teaspoongarammasalasaltMintandCorianderChutney,toserve
1Preheattheovento200°C/gasmark6andlineabakingtraywithgreaseproofpaper.2Combinethemincewiththeginger-garlicpaste,chilli,corianderandgarammasala,seasonwithsaltandkneadwell.3Shapeintolittleballsthesizeofacherryandplaceonthebakingtray.Bakefor10minutes.4ServehotwithMintandCorianderChutney.
ChickenTikkaSeekhKebabsTandooriGobhiMurghMalaiTikkaLalMasalyatliMacchiJhingaHariyaliTandooriMurghMurghTikkaAchariTandooriMacchli
INMANYPARTSOFNORTHINDIA,OPEN-AIRTANDOORIRESTAURANTSSERVEANARRAYOFPOPULARGRILLEDFOODS,SUCHASTANDOORICHICKENANDSEEKH
KEBABS.
Atandoorisacylindrical,clay,woodorcoal-firedoveninwhichmeatsorbreadsarecooked.ItsoriginsaresaidtobeintheMiddleEastalthoughmanyhistorianshaverecordedfindingsofsmallmud-plasteredovensintheIndusValleycivilisation,dated3300–1700BC.
ContrarytowhatmostpeopleoutsideofIndiabelieve,notallofIndiausestandoorovens.TheselargeovensareconfinedtonorthIndiaandPunjabinparticular.InmanyPunjabivillages,thetandoorwasacommunalovenwherewomenwouldtaketheirdoughtobecookedintorotis.
TheMotiMahalrestaurantinNewDelhiclaimsthattheymadethecommunaltandoorahouseholdnamethroughtheirofferingoftandoorifoods.Famouspatronslovedthiscuisinesomuchthatitcametobeapartofstatebanquetsandroyalfeasts.Today,mostnorthIndianrestaurantshaveatandooranditisalmostconfinedtotherestaurantbusiness.Beinga‘tandoorichef’isnoeasything–youhavetobeadeptatputtingyourhandinanoventhatisblazingatupto450°Candpullingoutanaanorkebabattheexactmomentitiscooked.
IndiancookingdoesnotrequireanyovenbakingandmostIndianhomesarenotfittedwithWestern-styleovens.Consideringthis,mostgrilledfoods,suchaskebabsortandoorichicken,areconsidered‘restaurant’foodinIndia.OfcoursethesegrilledfoodsareoccasionallymadeinnorthIndianhomes,onagriddle,butmostpeoplewouldagreethattheslightlycharred,smokyflavouroftandoor-cookedfoodisincomparable.
Grilledfoodsareservedwithahighlyflavouredorcreamydip,slicedfreshonionsandwedgesoflemonorlime.
Inthischapter,IhaverecreatedsomepopularkebabsusingaconventionalWestern-stylegasoven.Thecookingtimeinaperfectlyheatedtandoorismuchlessthaninaconventionalovenasthetemperatureismuchhigherandthethickclaywallssealtheheatin.Awholechickenweighing1.5kgcouldcookin30minutesinatandoorwhereasitwouldtakemuchlongerinagasorelectricoven.Also,cookinginatandoorgivesthatlovelycharred,smokyflavourwhichneverreallytastesburnt.Itisdifficulttoachievethatintheoven,evenunderagrill.
Thehightemperatureinatandoorensuresthatthemeatiscookedandjuicyontheinsideandslightlycrustyontheoutside,withthemarinadecookingintocrispbitsthatclingtoit.Oncetheouterlayerofmeathasbeensealedbytheheat,thejuicesaresealedinwhereasinaconventionaloven,thejuicesdripintothetray,partiallycookingthemeatinsteam.Thetimesandtemperaturesmayvaryslightlydependingonwhatsortofovenyouareusing.Forexample,awholechickenwilltake25minutesper500gat200°C(plus25minutes),or180°Cinafan-assistedoven.
TIPSFORSUCCESSFULGRILLING:1Marinateyourmeat,chickenorfishatleastfor1hourorovernightifpossible,sothattheflavoursofthespicesareabsorbed.Clickhereformoreonmarinades.2Makesurethatyourovenishotsothatthefoodgetsslightlycharred.3Youcanalsocooktherecipesinthischapteronabarbecue–makesureyourfoodiscookedthrough.4Grilledfoodsinsomerestaurantshaveabrightredcolour.Thiscomesfromediblefoodcolouring.Youcanaddthistotherecipeorleaveitout.Omittingitwon’tchangetheflavourofthedish.Mostgoodrestaurantswillnotusefoodcolouring,asitisconsideredunnecessary.Ready-made‘tandoorimasala’,availableinIndianshops,hasredfoodcolouring.IprefernottousefoodcolouringasIthinkitmakesfoodlookunnatural.
ChickenTikka
[CUBEDSPICEDCHICKEN]
Theword‘tikka’,oftenmisunderstoodasa‘sauce’ora‘tandoori-cookedfood’,isactuallyadice-cutofchickenbreast,usuallyaninchinsize.ThewordislargelyusedinrestaurantsinnorthIndiawherechickentikkahasbeenpopularisedasmorselsofhighlyspiced,marinatedchickenthatarecookedinatandoororclayoven.Thesecanbeservedacanapéorasalightmealwithasalad.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plus1hourmarinatingorovernightifpossible)COOKING15minutes
1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder½teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoongroundcumin½teaspoongroundcoriander1teaspoongarammasala4greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded2tablespoonsfull-fatyogurt
juiceof½lime400gskinlesschickenbreast,cubedsaltfreshonionringsandwedgesoflemonorlime,toserve
1Combinetheginger-garlicpaste,groundspices,yogurt,limejuiceandsalttoseasoninalargemixingbowl.Addthecubedchicken,stirtocoat,coverandrefrigeratefor1hourorovernightifpossible.2Preheattheovento200°C/gasmark6andlineabakingtraywithfoil.3Placethemarinatedchickenonthelinedbakingtrayandbakefor15minutes.Makesureitiscookedrightthroughbycuttingopenapieceandcheckingthatitiscompletelywhiteinside.4Removefromtheovenandserveatonce,withfreshonionringsandwedgesoflemonorlime.
SeekhKebabs
[MINCEDLAMBKEBABS]
‘Seekh’meansskewers,sothemeatinthisdish,eithermincedbeeforlamb,iswrappedaroundskewersinsausageshapes.KebabsoriginatedinTurkey/PersiaandcametoIndiathroughtheMughals.SeekhkebabsarepopularinthenorthwhereMughlaicookinghasgreatinfluence,andtheyarealsosoldasstreetfoodastheyarequickandeasytocookonsmallroadsidecoalbarbecues.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plus1hourmarinatingtimeorovernightifpossibleCOOKING15–20minutes
1smallonion,finelydiced2freshgreenchillies,finelyminced1tablespoongarammasala1teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste2teaspoonsnaturalyogurt500gmincedlambasmallhandfuloffinelychoppedfreshcorianderleavesasmallhandfuloffinelychoppedfreshmintleavessaltMintandCorianderChutney,toserve
1Combinetheonion,chillies,garammasala,pepper,ginger-garlicpaste,salttoseasonandyogurtinalargemixingbowl.Mixwell,thenstirinthelamb,breakupthemince,coverandleaveittomarinateinthefridgeforatleast1hourorovernightifpossible.2Preheattheovento200°C/gasmark6andlineabakingtraywithfoil.3Soak12bambooskewersinwarmwaterfor30minutes,andmixthechoppedherbsintothemarinatedlambmince.
4Shapethemeataroundthesoakedskewers,placethemonthefoil-linedbakingtrayandcookfor15–20minutes,turningthemovertocookevenlyonallsides.5RemovefromtheovenandservehotwithMintandCorianderChutney.
MASTERCLASS
PANEERKESULEY–SkeweredPaneerandVegetables
Youcanuseready-boughtpaneerormakeyourown.Ihaveusedthedhungarmethod,popularinthenorthIndianAwadhistyleofcookingtosmokethepaneer.TheAwadhistyleisinspiredbyMughalcooking;and‘dhungar’iswhenasmallpieceofcoalislitandplacedinasmallmetalbowlinsidethepanoffoodtoimpartasmokinesstothefood(seehere).Youcanleavethispartoftherecipeoutifyouwish.
Serves4PREPARATION→20minutes,plus30minutesmarinatingandsoakingtimeCOOKING20minutes
YOUWILLNEED:300gpaneer,cutinto2cmcubes1redpepper,deseededandcutinto3cmcubes1greenpepper,deseededandcut
into3cmcubes1smallonion,cutinto3cmcubes1tablespoonvegetableoilsmallpieceofcoal(optional)2cloves1teaspoonmeltedgheeorvegetableoilMintandCorianderChutney,toserveFor
themarinade50gnaturalyogurt½teaspoonajowanseeds1teaspoonKashmiriredchillipowder1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste2tablespoonslemonjuice1teaspoongarammasala½teaspoondriedfenugreekleaves(kasoorimethi)salt
1Mixalltheingredientsforthemarinadetogetherinalargebowlandstirinthecubedpaneerandvegetables.Setasidetomarinatefor30minutes.
2Preheattheovento200°C/gasmark6,lineabakingtraywithfoilandifusingbambooskewers,soak6skewersinwarmwaterfor30minutes.
3Skewerthemarinatedpaneerandvegetablesinanattractivefashion:Ialternatethepaneer,peppersandonionssothateachskeweriscolourfulandhassomeofeach.Drizzlewiththevegetableoil.Placeonthelinedbakingtrayandbakefor15minutes.
4Removethetrayfromtheovenandplacetheskewersinadeep,liddedfryingpan.Placethesmallmetalbowlinthecentreofthefryingpan.Lightthecoalandwhentheinitialthicksmokehasdiedaway,placeitinthebowl.
5Addtheclovestothebowlandpourthegheeoroiloverthetop.Coverthepanwithatight-fittinglidandsealfor2–3minutes.
6Removethelidandservetheskewersimmediately,withMintandCorianderChutney.
TandooriGobhi
[GRILLEDSPICEDCAULIFLOWERSTEAKS]
Ilovethedramaticappealofthisrecipe.Thecauliflowermustbecookeduntiljusttendertomakethemostofitscrunchandjuiciness.ThisdishisservedinnorthIndianrestaurantswhichhavetandoors.Itisafairlynewadditiontothetandoorirepertoireastraditionalkebabswerenon-vegetarianandmodern-dayrestaurantsarecateringtovegetariansaswell.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plus30minutesmarinatingtimeCOOKING30minutes
1largecauliflower,leavesremoved1teaspooncuminseeds1smallonion,chopped1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste2freshgreenchillies,chopped1teaspoongroundturmeric½teaspoonamchoor(driedmangopowder)or2teaspoonslemonjuice½teaspoonchaatmasalavegetableoil,fordrizzlingsaltMintandCorianderChutney,toserve
1Cutthecauliflowerintolargesteaksabout5mmthick.Rubthemwithsaltonbothsides,toseason,andsetasidefor30minutes.2Heatafryingpanoverahighheat,addthecuminseedsanddry-toastuntiltheybegintodarkenanddevelopanaroma.Removefromtheheatandcrushtoapowderinapestleandmortar.3Puttheonion,ginger-garlicpasteandchilliesintoasmallblenderorpestleandmortarandcrushtoapurée.4Preheattheovento200°C/gasmark6andlineabakingtraywithfoil.5Stirthegroundspicesintothechillipuréeandbrushthemixtureontoboth
sidesofthecauliflowersteaks.Drizzleoveracoupleofteaspoonsofoil.Placeonthefoil-linedbakingtrayandbakefor30minutesoruntiltenderandgoldenaroundtheedges.6RemovefromtheovenandservehotwithMintandCorianderChutney.
MurghMalaiTikka
[CREAMYCHICKENTIKKA]
ThisisapopularrestaurantkebabandcombinesWestern-styleCheddarcheesewithIndianspicestoachieveasubtle,creamyflavour.Itwascreatedbytandoorichefsinfinediningrestaurantslocatedinfive-starhotels,buttheexactoriginisunclear.Theycanbefinishedwithalightsprinklingofchaatmasala,atangyhotspicemix,forextraflavour.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plus1hourmarinatingtimeCOOKING21minutes
1egg20gmildCheddarcheese,grated2freshgreenchillies,finelydiced1teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper½teaspoongratednutmeg2tablespoonsdoublecream1tablespooncornflour300gskinlesschickenbreast,cutinto2cmcubessaltpinchofchaatmasala,toserve(optional)MintandCorianderChutneyandNaans,toserve
1Combinetheegg,cheese,chillies,pepper,nutmeg,cream,salttoseasonandcornflourinabowl.Addthechickentothismixture,stirtocoat,coverandtransfertothefridgetomarinatefor1hour.2Preheattheovento200°C/gasmark6andlineabakingtraywithfoilorgreaseproofpaper.3Transferthemarinatedchickentothelinedbakingtrayandbakefor20minutes,thenplaceunderahotgrillfor1minuteorsotogetaslightlycharredeffect.
4Servehot,sprinkledwithchaatmasala,ifyoulike,alongsidenaansandMintandCorianderChutney.
LalMasalyatliMacchi
[REDCHILLIFISH]
Youcanmakethemarinadeforthisdishasspicyormildasyouwish,byincreasingorreducingtheamountofchillipowderinthemarinade.Theflavourofthechilliismoreimportantthantheheat!Chooseafirmfishsuchaskingfish,mackerel,bream,troutorsalmonsoitholdsitsshapewhencooking.TraditionallycooksincoastalMaharashtraandGoa,wherethisrecipecomesfrom,woulduselocalseafishsuchaspomfretormackerel.Youcouldalsousethemarinadeforprawns.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plus1hourmarinatingtimeorovernight,ifpossibleCOOKING20minutes
1teaspoonKashmiriredchillipowder1teaspoongroundcoriander1teaspoongroundcumin2tablespoonslemonjuice1teaspooncrushedgarlic4x200gfishsteaks,suchaskingfish,mackerel,bream,troutorsalmon2tablespoonsvegetableoilsaltfreshonionringsandwedgesoflemonorlime,toserve
1Combinethespicesinabowlwiththelemonjuice,garlicandsalttoseason.2Rubthespicemixontothefishsteaks,coverandrefrigerateforatleast1hour(orovernightifpossible).3Preheattheovento200°C/gasmark6andlineabakingtraywithfoil.4Placethemarinatedfishsteaksonthelinedbakingtray,drizzlewiththeoilandbakefor15–20minutes,dependingonthethicknessofthesteaks.Gentlypierceaknifeintoasteak,pushopenandcheckthatitisopaqueallthewaythrough.
5Servehotwithslicesoffreshonionandwedgesoflemonorlime.
JhingaHariyali
[PRAWNSWITHGREENHERBS]
Usethebestprawnsyoucanbuyforthisdish.Again,thisisarestaurant-styledishfromnorthIndiawheretheyarecookedonskewersinthetandoor.Youcanusethemarinadewithotherseafoodsuchassquid,oranyfirmfishsuchascodorhaddock.ServetheskewerswithGreenAppleChutneyandsomeofthemarinadeusedforflavouringtheprawns.
Serves5PREPARATION→15minutes,plus30minutesmarinatingtimeCOOKING4–6minutes
alargehandfuloffreshcorianderleavesalargehandfuloffreshmintleaves2freshgreenchillies1teaspoonginger-garlicpaste½teaspoongroundturmeric1tablespoonlemonjuice20largerawprawns,shelledanddeveined(leavethetailsonifyouwish)saltGreenAppleChutney,toserve
1Blitzalltheingredientsapartfromtheprawnsinablender,seasonwithsaltandaddalittlewatertomakeasmoothpurée.2Marinatetheprawnsfor30minutesinhalfofthepurée,settingtheremainderasidetoservewiththeskewersasadip.Ifusingbambooskewers,soak5skewersinwarmwaterwhiletheprawnsaremarinating.3Preheatthegrilltohighandlineabakingtraywithfoil.4Threadthemarinatedprawnsontotheskewers,placetheskewersonthefoil-linedbakingtrayandgrillfor2–3minutes.Assoonastheprawnschangecolour,removethetrayoutfromtheoven,fliptheskewersoverandcooktheprawnsontheothersideforafurther2–3minutes.ServewithGreenAppleChutney.
TandooriMurgh
[TANDOORI-STYLECHICKEN]
Popularlyknownastandoorichicken,thisdishoriginatedfromtheMughlaistyleofcookinginclayovens,andwaspopularisedbythePunjabis.Today,itisconsideredareadilyavailablerestauranttreat.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plus1hourmarinatingtimeorovernightifpossibleCOOKING50minutes
4cloves3greencardamompods,seedsremovedandhusksdiscarded½teaspoonfenugreekseeds1
teaspooncuminseeds1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder½teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoonground
coriander2tablespoonslemonjuice8chickendrumsticks,skinnedandpricked2tablespoonsvegetableoilsaltfreshonionrings,wedgesoflemonorlimeandNaans,toserve
1Heatasmallfryingpanoverahighheat,addthecloves,cardamomseeds,fenugreekandcuminseedsanddry-toastuntiltheydarkenandbecomefragrant.Tipthemintoapestleandmortarorspicemillandcrushorblendtoafinepowder.2Combinetheginger-garlicpaste,groundspices,chillipowder,turmeric,groundcoriander,lemonjuiceandsalttoseasoninalargemixingbowl.Addthechickendrumsticks,coattheminthemarinade,coverandrefrigerateforatleast1hourorovernightifpossible.3Preheattheovento220ºC/gasmark6orheatthebarbecueandlineabakingtraywithfoil.4Rubthemarinateddrumstickswiththevegetableoil.5Putthechickenonthehotbarbecuegrillorintheovenonthelinedbakingtrayandcookfor45minutes(25–30minutesonabarbecue),turningthemhalfwaythroughcooking,untiltenderandcookedthroughtothebone.Cutopena
drumsticktocheckthatthefleshiswhite.Ifyou’recookingthechickenintheoven,finishbyplacingthedrumsticksunderahotgrillfor4–5minutestogetaslightlycharredeffect.6Servehotwithfreshonionrings,lemonorlimeandnaans.
MurghTikkaAchari
[CHICKENINPICKLINGSPICES]
Picklingspicesvaryfromregiontoregion.Inthesouthfenugreek,chilliandasafoetidaarecommonlyusedinabaseofsesameoil,whereasinGujarat,fennelandcuminarecombinedwithjaggeryandchillitoformahot,sweetbase.MostpicklesalloverIndiacontainamixofmustardseedsandchilli.
Serves4PREPARATION→20minutes,plus1hourmarinatingtimeCOOKING20minutes
1teaspoonaniseed½teaspoonfenugreekseeds½teaspoonnigellaseeds(kalonji)½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper1tablespoonginger-garlicpaste½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder2tablespoonslemonjuice3tablespoonsfull-fatyogurt400gskinlesschickenbreast,cutinto2cmcubessaltMintandCorianderChutneyandNaans,toserve
1Heatasmallfryingpanoverahighheat,addtheaniseed,fenugreek,nigellaseedsandpepperanddry-toastforaminuteorsountilthemixdarkensandbecomesfragrant.Tipthetoastedspicesintoapestleandmortarorspicemillandcrushorblendtoafinepowder.2Puttheginger-garlicpaste,chillipowder,groundspicesfromthemortarorspicemill,lemonjuiceandyogurtinabowlandmixwell.Seasonwithsaltandtastetocheck.Stirinthechickentocoatitinthemarinade,thencoverandrefrigeratefor1hour.3Meanwhile,soak10bambooskewersinwarmwaterforatleast30minutesand
preheatthegrilltohigh.4Threadthemarinatedchickenontothesoakedskewers,puttingafewpiecesoneachone.Placeunderahotgrillandcookfor3–4minutes.Flipoverandcookforafurther3–4minutesuntilthechickeniscookedallthewaythrough.5ServehotwithMintandCorianderChutneyandnaan.
TandooriMacchli
[WHOLESPICEDFISH]
Thiseasyrecipecanbemadewithanyfirmfish–Ilikemackerelortroutastheyareeasilyavailable,therightsizetofitintomyovenandarewonderfullyfirmwhencookedwhole.Punjab,whichmeans‘thelandofthefiverivers’iswherethisrecipecomesfrom,sofreshwaterfishsuchascarp,rohuandtilapiafoundintheBeas,Jhelum,Ravi,SutlejandChenabriversareusedinthatregion.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plus30minutesmarinatingtimeCOOKING25minutes
1½teaspoonsgarammasala1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongroundturmeric2teaspoonsginger-garlicpaste1egg,beaten1tablespoongramflour2tablespoonslemonjuice2x400gwholefirmfish,suchasrainbowtroutormackerel,gutted,scaledandwellcleaned1tablespoonvegetableoilsaltfreshonionringsandwedgesoflemonandlime,toserve
1Combinethegroundspices,ginger-garlicpaste,egg,gramflour,lemonjuiceandsalttoseasoninasmallbowl.2Smearthespicemixtureoverthefish,makingsurethatitisevenlycoatedinsideandout.Leavethefishtomarinateinthefridge,covered,foratleast30minutes.3Preheattheovento200°C/gasmark6andlineabakingtraywithfoil.4Placethemarinatedfishonthelinedbakingtray,drizzlewiththeoilandcookfor25minutesoruntilthefishiscookedthrough.Gentlyinsertasharpknifeinto
thethickestpart.Thefleshshouldslightlyresistbutstilllookfirm.(Itwillcontinuetocookforafewmoreminutesafterit’sremovedfromtheoven.)5Servehotwithfreshonionringsandwedgesoflemonandlime.
KheerePudineKaRaitaKhamangKakdiKachumberDahiKachumberBeetrootRaithaPalakKaRaitaVellarikaPachadiSweetcornSundalCheenikayiRaithaFruitSasamAnanasAurAnarKaRaitaGajarNoSambharoChawliRajmaKaSalaadTikhatKeliFruitChaatVangyacheBhareetBengaliTomatoRaitaMungChaat
ALMOSTEVERYINDIANMEALISACCOMPANIEDBYASALADORRAITA,WHICHISGENERALLYACOMBINATIONOFVEGETABLESANDHERBSWITHYOGURT.THIS
PROVIDESANINTERESTINGCONTRASTOFTEXTURESANDTEMPERATURES.
AlmosteveryIndianmealisaccompaniedbyasaladorraita,whichisgenerallyacombinationofvegetablesandherbswithyogurt.Eachregionhasitsownrepertoire.Inthenorthandcentralpartsofthecountry,raitasaresprinkledwithtoastedgroundcuminandredchillipowder.Inthesouth,theyarecalled‘pachadi’,atermthatlooselymeansraworgreen(‘pacha’)vegetables,thatarecoarselycrushedorbeaten(‘adi’).Pachadialsoreferstotheinnumerablepicklesandrelishes,suchasthetendermangoone,madeinsouthernIndia.Apachadiishighlyflavouredwithsaltandspicessuchaschilliandmustardandthereforeitistobeeateninsmallerquantitiesthanamaindish.Itmayalsoincludelocallygrowncoconut.SomeraitassuchasCucumberandMintRaitahavebeenmadefamousbyIndianrestaurantstheworldover.WesternversionsareverymuchlikethoseyouwouldfindinIndia–onereasonforitspopularityistheeaseoffindingbothcucumberandyogurtinshopsaroundtheworld.
Bothraitasandpachadiscanbemadewithvegetables,pulsesorfruit.Localingredientsarekey,sointhenorth,onewouldseewintercarrotsorsummercucumbers.Gramflourisfriedintolittlepearlscalled‘boondi’thatareaddedtoyogurt.North-growingfruitsuchaspomegranatemakesabejewelledraitaincombinationwithyogurt.
Inthesouth,ridgegourd,withitstoughpeel,maybeusedalongwithamla(Indiangooseberry),tomatoesandsorrelor‘gongura’leaves.BeingclosetotheEquator,temperaturescansoarinthesummerandchillies,withtheirabilitytomakeusperspirebywayofthecapsaicintheycontain,areincludedinfierypachadis.Seasonalmangoesandpineapplearecombinedwithcoconutandchillitomakesweet,hotandtangyraitascalled‘sasam’.Pachadisareoftenfinishedwithatemperingofspiceseeds(seehere)suchasmustardandcumin.
Asaladnotonlyaddsessentialfibretoameal,butalsointerestingtexturesandvibrancyofcolour.Araitawillcertainlycooldownthepalatebutalsoprovidetheexcitementofanewtemperaturelayerinamostlyhotmeal.
Saladsandraitasmakethemostofseasonalproduceandclevercookswillfindinterestingwaystoincludemarketvegetablesintodailymeals.Raitascanbe
sweet,tangyorsavouryandincludeingredientssuchascucumber,tomato,aubergine,mango,carrot,spinach,bananastemorbananas.Theyareservedplainorflavouredwithspicessuchascuminandchilliaswellasherbssuchascoriander,mintanddill.
Mostsaladsandraitasareservedatroomtemperatureormarginallycool.Indiansdonotliketheirmainmealstobecoldandcertainlyneverice-cold!Ayurvedasuggeststhatverycoldfoodshelptoextinguish‘agni’orthedigestivefireinthestomach,makingthesystemsluggishandweak.
HERBSCORIANDER→ThisisthemostcommonlyusedherbinIndia.Variouslycalled‘dhania’,‘kothmir’or‘kothimbir’,itispuréedforcurriesorsprinkledonasagarnish.Itlookssimilartoparsleysowhenbuying,snifftherootsorstalksforthatdistinctivepowerfulfragrancethatonlycorianderhas.SomepeopledescribethisassoapybutIthinkitismoreacombinationofcitrusandginger.Peopleseemtoloveorhatecorianderleaves;ifyouarecateringforsomeonewhodoesnotappreciateitsfineflavour,leaveitout.
Howtouseandstorecoriander–Indiancookingusestheleavesandtenderstemsoftheplantasaherb.Theseedsarethespice.Washtheplantsandsnipoffthelowerstemsandroots.Chopgentlybutfinely,makingsurenottobruisetheleavestoomuch.
Tokeepcorianderfreshforlonger,lineaplasticboxwithafewsheetsofdrykitchenpaperandputthebunchofcorianderin.Ifthebunchistiedwitharubberbandorstring,discardthis.Sealtheboxwithalid.Don’twashthecorianderbeforestoringit.Thepaperabsorbsthetrappedmoisturefromtheherbwhichcancauseittowiltandbecomemouldy.Changethekitchenpapereverycoupleofdays.Thecorianderwillkeepwellforupto10days.
MINT→MostIndiansassociatemintwithchutneyandsnackssuchascrispsamosas,bhajiasandstreetfood,suchasbhelpuri,whichareservedwithit.MintisusedmoreinnorthIndiathaninthesouthasitwasprobablyintroducedintoIndiancookerybytheMuslimrulersofDelhi.Theyusedminttoperfumetheirmeatsand,aftersettlingdowninthefertilerice-richlandofIndia,developedtheircuisinetoincludemanymint-flavouredbiryanisandpulaos.
Howtobuyandstoremint–Mintissoldfreshandisalsoavailabledriedandcrushedtoafineolive-greenpowder.Freshmintshouldbeselectedonthebasisofitsvitalityandcolour.Avoidbruised,blackenedorwiltedleaves.Freshmintkeepswellforaweekorlongerinthefridge–followthesamestoragemethodas
forfreshcoriander.Driedminthasasubtlefragrancebutlosesitsflavourafter3–4months.IamnotfondoffreezingmintorcorianderasIthinktheylosetheircolour,flavourandvitality.
CURRYLEAF→FewsouthIndiansavouriesarecompletewithoutthisherb.TheancientHindupracticeofAyurvedicmedicinereliesheavilyoncurryleavesformanyofitscures.Itlendsitslingeringaromatoadishbutcanbetoochewytoactuallyeat.
Curryleavesgrowonmedium-sizedtreesandaredifferenttothecurryplant.ThetreeisnativetoIndiaandSriLankaandthrivesintropicalclimates.InIndia,theplantisgrownonkitchenwindowsillssothatafewleavescaneasilybepluckedwhenneeded.Astheplantissowidelygrown,theherbischeapandsomevegetablesellersinIndiaoftentossafewfreshsprigsintoyourshoppingbasketfreeofchargeasalittleextra.
Thewholeplant,includingthestems,hasastrongcurry-likeodour.Thetasteisslightlybitterbutpleasantandaromatic.
Howtobuyandstorecurryleaves–Curryleavesareavailablefresh,frozenordried.Freshleaveshaveabeautifulfragrancethatispartiallylostondryingorfreezing.Ifyouhaveabunchoffreshcurryleaves,thesecanbehomedriedforlateruse:spreadthebunchoutonatray,stalksandall,anddryfor2–3daysatroomtemperature.Discardthestalksandstoretheleavesinaplasticcontainerinthefridgeforupto6months.Ifindthisabetterwaytoretaintheirflavourthanfreezingthem.Driedonesarealsoavailablecommercially.
DILL→Indiandillor‘suva’isusedpracticallyalloverIndia.Dillhasanaromathatisslightlyreminiscentofcaraway–warm,aromaticandtingly.ThefreshfrondsareusedtoflavourdalsoraddedtovegetablesidedishessuchasPalakKiSubzi.
Howtobuyandstoredill–Dillisavailableinbunches–choosefresh,green,firmfronds.Overtime,dillstartstoturnyellowanddry–avoidthesebunches.Storedillinthesamewayasfreshcoriander.
MASTERCLASS
HOWTOBUYANDSTOREFENUGREEK
Fenugreekiseatenfreshasavegetable,theleavesaredriedandsoldasaherbcalled‘kasoorimethi’andtheseedsareusedasaspice.Fenugreekhasabitterandlingeringtastebutawonderfulsweet,curry-likearoma.Fenugreekseedsareavailablewhole,crushedorground.ThefreshstalkswithleavesaresoldineveryIndianfoodshopand‘kasoorimethi’issoldinpacks.Kasoorimethiisusedinsmallamountssobuysmallpacksandstorethemawayfrommoistureandlight.Itcanbeaddedtowarmoilatthebeginningofcookingacurryorasafinishingherbattheend.Ifyoucannotfindkasoorimethi,here’showtomakeit.
YOUWILLNEED:abunchoffreshfenugreekleaves–atray–acleanteatowel–alargebakingtraylinedwithfoilorgreaseproofpaper–aclean250ml(noneedto
sterilise)jartostorethedriedherb
1Pluckthefenugreekleavesoffthestems,wash,patthemgentlytogetridofexcessmoisture,spreadthemoutonatrayandleavetodryforafewhoursuntilthereisnomoistureleft.
2Preheattheovento80ºC/gasmark½.Oncetheleavesarecompletelydry,spreadthemoutonabakingtrayandputinthecentreoftheoven,leavingthedoorslightlyopensothatthereissomecirculationofair.Ifthisisnotdone,themethiwillbakeratherthandry.
3Dependingonyourovenandtheamountofaircirculating,itshouldtake
45–50minutestocompletelydrythemethi.Checkhalfwaythroughcookingand,ifnecessary,shakethetraytoseparatetheleavesabit.
4Tocheckiftheyaredone,crushafewleavesbetweenyourfingers.Theyshouldcrumbleeasily.Removethetrayfromtheovenandcoolcompletely.Storetheleavesinaclean,dryjarforuptoayear.
KheerePudineKaRaita
[CUCUMBERANDMINTSALAD]
ThisnorthIndianraitagoeswellwithrichmeatorfragrantricedishessuchasBiryaniorRoganJosh,asitprovidesafresh,lightbalance.Youcanaddachoppedfreshtomatoforaslighttangandcolour.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes
½cucumber,coarselygrated,skinon¼teaspooncuminseeds8tablespoonsnaturalyogurtfewsprigsoffreshmint,leavesfinelychoppedsalt
1Putthegratedcucumberinasieveoverabowlandsqueezeoutmostofthejuice.Thisjuicecanbeaddedtocurriesordals.2Dry-toastthecuminseedsandcrushwithapestleandmortar.3Combinethecucumberinabowlwiththeremainingingredients,seasonwithsaltandserveimmediately.
KhamangKakdi
[FRAGRANTCUCUMBERANDPEANUTSALAD]
ThisfestiveMaharashtriansaladmakesthemostoflocallygrownpeanutsandisservedatcelebrationsandweddings.Thefragranceofpeanutsandcoconutalongwithcurryleavesandmustardelevatesthesimpleflavourofcucumber,makingitaperfectaccompanimenttothemanyvegetables,riceanddalpreparationsthatmakeupaHinduvegetarianfeast.ThecoconutisoptionalintheinteriorregionsofMaharashtra,awayfromthecoastwhereitgrows,soleaveitoutifyouprefer.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING2minutes
½cucumber,veryfinelychopped,skinon2tablespoonstoastedpeanuts,coarselycrushed2tablespoonsfinelychoppedcorianderleaves1tablespoonfreshlygratedordesiccatedcoconut1teaspoonvegetableoil
1teaspoonblackmustardseeds6freshor10driedcurryleavessalt
1Combinethecucumber,peanuts,corianderandcoconuttogetherinabowl.2Heattheoilinasmallfryingpanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheybegintopop,addthecurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanifusingfreshleaves,astheywillsplutter)thenpourtheoiloverthecucumbermixture.Addsalttoseasonjustbeforeserving.
Kachumber
[ONIONANDTOMATOSALADWITHDILL,CORIANDERANDLIME]
Akachumberisvariouslycalleda‘kachoomer’or‘koshimbir’andismadeoffinelydiced,rawvegetablessuchasradishandcarrot.Commoncombinationsincludeonion,tomatoandcucumber,astheseareavailablealloverthecountry(inHindi,‘kacha’israw).
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes
1redonion,finelychopped2tomatoes,finelychoppedahandfuloffreshdillfronds,finelychoppedahandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,finelychoppedpinchofcastersugar
bigsqueezeoflimesaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
1Mixalltheingredientstogetherinabowl,seasonwithsaltandpepper,andserveatonce.
DahiKachumber
[ONIONANDCORIANDERRAITA]
Thissimpleraitagoeswellwithrich,spicymeatdishessuchasSaagGoshtandDalGosht,andisoftenservedinrestaurantsservingnorthIndianMughlaifood.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plus10minuteschilling
1largeonion,finelydiced100mlnaturalyogurtfewsprigsoffreshcorianderleaves,finelychopped1teaspooncuminseeds,drytoastedandcrushed(seehere)salt
1Combinealltheingredientsinabowl,chillfor10minutesandserve.Ifmakingitinadvance,removeitfromthefridge30minutesbeforeservingandseasonwithsaltatthelastminute.Addingsaltinadvancewilldrawoutthejuicesfromtheonionmakingtheraitawatery.
BeetrootRaitha
[BEETROOTANDYOGURTRAITAWITHMUSTARDANDCURRYLEAVES]
ThisisasouthIndianrecipebutanorthIndianversionthataccompaniesheavysauce-basedcurriessuchasakormacanalsobemadebysimplycombiningcooked,gratedbeetrootwithyogurt,saltandcrushed,toastedcumin.Thissouthernversionmakesthemostoflocallygrowncoconutandcurryleaves.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING2minutes
150gnaturalyogurtpinchofcastersugar1tablespoonsunflowerorcoconutoil1teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseedssmallpinch
offreshcurryleaves½teaspoonfinelygratedfreshrootginger2cookedbeetroot,coarselygrated1tablespoonfreshlygratedordesiccatedcoconutsaltandpepper
1Combinetheyogurt,salttoseason,alargepinchofpepperandsugarinabowl.2Heattheoilinasmallfryingpanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheybegintopop,addthecurryleavesandginger.Reducetheheattomediumandcookforafewseconds,thenpourintotheyogurtandstirinthebeetrootandcoconut.Servecold.
PalakKaRaita
[SPICEDSPINACHRAITA]
YoucanusefreshorfrozenspinachforthisrecipefromnorthIndia.Ithelpsaddafreshgreencolourtoamealthatmayhaveabrowncurryandwhiterice,andprovidesavegetablesidedishtothissimplemeal.Inthesouth,thiscombinationofspinachandyogurtwouldbetemperedwithspicessuchasblackmustardseeds,driedredchilliesandasafoetida.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING5minutes
3goodhandfulsofspinach,washed,drainedandchopped150gnaturalyogurt1tablespoonvegetableoil½teaspooncuminseedssaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
1Placethespinachinapanandcookoverahighheatfor3–4minutes.Assoonasithaswilted,removefromtheheatanddrain.2Seasontheyogurtwithsaltandpepperandstirinthespinach.3Heattheoilinasmallfryingpanoverahighheat,addthecuminseedsandfryforafewseconds.Whentheydarken,pourthemintotheraitaandstirin.Servecold.
VellarikaPachadi
[CUCUMBERANDCOCONUTRAITA]
ServedatcelebratoryfeastsatweddingsandfestivalslikeOnam,thissidedishfromKeralaoftenformsapartof‘sadhya’.Thismealcanconsistofuptotwentydishesallservedonabananaleaf.Thesheernumberofdishesthatcomplementeachotherinflavour,temperature,colourandtexturemakesa‘sadhya’mealveryspecial.MealsforlargenumbersofpeopleareservedonbananaleavesinsouthernIndiaastheyformabiodegradableplatethatcanbediscardedwithoutwastingresourcesonwashingup.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING10minutes
½cucumber,peeled,seedsscrapedoutandfleshcutintobite-sizedpieces150gfull-fatyogurt
2tablespoonsfreshlygratedorfrozencoconut1freshgreenchilli1tablespooncoconutoil1teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseedssmallpinchoffreshcurryleaves2driedredchilliessaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
1Putthecucumberinasaucepanwithenoughwatertobarelycoverit,seasonwithsaltandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor4–5minutestojustsoftenit,thendrainandsetaside,savingtheliquidforblending.2Meanwhile,combinetheyogurtwithsalttoseasonandalargepinchofpepperinabowl.3Putthecoconutandgreenchilli,alongwithsomeofcucumbercookingliquidfromStep1,intoablenderandblitztoafinepurée.Addthistotheyogurt,alongwiththecookedcucumber.4Heattheoilinasmallfryingpanoverahighheat,addthemustardseedsandfryuntiltheybegintopop.Tipinthecurryleavesandredchilliesthenpourinto
theraita.Stirinandservecold.
MASTERCLASS
BOONDIRAITA–TinyGramFlourDropsinYogurt
‘Boond’inHindimeans‘drop’andthisisoneofthemostpopularraitasmadeinnorthIndianhomes.Itisquicktopreparewhenusingshop-boughtboondiandthesquidgytextureseemstocomplementtherichnessofnorthIndiancooking.Althoughready-madeboondiorflourballsarewidelyavailableinmanyplacesinIndia,intheWestyoucanfindtheminIndiangroceryshops.However,Boondiarealsoeasytoprepareathome.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,pluschillingtimeCOOKING25minutes
YOUWILLNEED:½teaspooncuminseeds150gnaturalyogurtpinchofcastersugarsaltFortheboondi100ggram(besan)flour1tablespoonfinesemolina½teaspoonsaltvegetableoil,fordeep-frying
1Combinetheflour,semolinaandsaltinamixingbowlandaddenoughcoldwater(roughly150–180ml)tomakeathickbatter.Whisktogethertoremoveanylumps.
2Heattheoilinadeepfryingpanoverahighheat.Whenitreachessmokingpoint,reducetheheat.Holdaperforatedspoonabout10cmabovethepanandpoursomebatterontoit.Itshoulddripindropletsintotheoil.
3Thedropsofbatterwillfloatuptothesurfaceoftheoilquitequickly.Fry
foraminuteorsooncethey’verisentothesurfaceoftheoil,removewithaslottedspoonanddrainonkitchenpaper.Repeatwiththeremainingbatter.Theboondiscanbestoredinanairtightcontainerinthekitchencupboardforacoupleofmonths.
4Heatafryingpanoverahighheat,addthecuminseedsanddry-toastuntiltheybegintodarkenanddevelopanaroma.Removefromtheheatandcrushtoapowderinapestleandmortar.
5Tomaketheraita,combinetheyogurt,salttoseason,sugarandcumininaservingbowl.
6Stirinathirdoftheboondistomakeasemi-liquidraita.Chillforanhoursothattheboondishavetimetosoakupthemoistureandsoften,thenbringbacktoroomtemperatureandserve.Storetheremainingboondisinanairtightcontainerforupto3months.
SweetcornSundal
[SWEETCORNSALADWITHSPICESANDCOCONUT]
Sundalisafestive,drysidedishfromsouthIndiaandistypicallypreparedoncertainreligiousdaysasblessedfood.Foodsthatcanbepreparedquicklyarefavouredsothatthedaycanbespentinmeditationandreflectionratherthanindoinghouseholdchores.Onsuchdays,onecanexpecttohavevisitorswhowillneedtobecateredforbywayofasmallbutfillingsnacksuchasthisone,whichisalsosometimesmadewithchickpeas.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING2minutes
1x200gcanofsweetcorn,drained2tablespoonsfreshlygratedcoconutordesiccatedcoconut(soakedinwarmwaterfor15minutesanddrained)1tablespoonsunflowerorcoconutoil1teaspoonbrownorblackmustardseedspinchofasafoetida
½teaspoonwhiteuraddal1driedredchillismallpinchoffreshcurryleavessaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
1Combinethesweetcorn,coconutandsalttoseasoninamixingbowl.2Heattheoilinasmallfryingpanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheybegintopop,addtheasafoetidaanduraddal.Cookforafewsecondsandassoonastheystarttoturngolden,tipinthechilliandcurryleaves.Pourthisoverthecorn,mixwellandserveatroomtemperature.
CheenikayiRaitha
[PUMPKINRAITA]
AsimplesidedishfromKarnataka,thisrecipecombinesthecreamyflavourofpumpkinwiththesweetnessofcoconut.ItisservedwitharotiorwithacurrysuchasEggandRidgegourdCurry.Youcanuseanyvarietyofpumpkinorbutternutsquash.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING10minutes
200gredpumpkin,peeled,deseededandgrated2freshgreenchillies2tablespoonsgratedfreshorfrozencoconutsmallsprigoffreshcorianderleaves,chopped
4tablespoonsnaturalyogurt¾teaspooncastersugar2teaspoonsvegetableoil1teaspoonblackmustardseeds½teaspoonwhiteuraddal,
washedanddrainedpinchofasafoetidasalt
1Putthepumpkininasaucepanwithenoughboilingwatertocoveritandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor5minutesuntilsoft.Drainandsetaside.2Blitzthechillies,coconut,corianderleavesandyogurtinablendertomakeafinepurée(youmayneedtoaddalittlewatertoturntheblades).Pouritintoabowl,seasonwithsaltthenaddthesugarandthecooked,drainedpumpkin.3Heattheoilinasmallfryingpanoverahighheat.Addthemustardseeds.Astheybegintopop,addthedalandasafoetida.Assoonasthedalbegintochangecolour,pourtheoiloverthepumpkinandyogurtmix.Servecool.
FruitSasam
[SPICEDFRUITSALAD]
Inthemangoseason,aroundApril–Mayeachyear,KonkanihouseholdsinwesternIndialookforwardtoeatingthisfabulousfruitsalad.Assomeonewhobelongstothisfood-lovingclan,oneofthemostfabulouschildhoodmemoriesIhaveisofeatingthismixedintosteamingrice!
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes
150gfresh,gratedcoconut,ordesiccated,soakedinwarmwaterfor30minutesanddrained¼teaspoonmediumredchillipowder
1teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseeds2tablespoonssoftdarkbrownsugarorcrumbledorgratedjaggery1ripemango,peeled,stonedandcutinto2cmcubessmallhandfulofredorgreengrapes,halved7–8smallcubesoffreshpineapple
salt
1Putthecoconut,chillipowder,mustardseedsandenoughwatertojustcoverthemixtureinablenderandblitztoafinepurée.2Seasonwithsaltandstirinthesugarorjaggery.Mixwelluntilitmelts.3Tipinthefruit,mixgentlyandservecold.
AnanasAurAnarKaRaita
[PINEAPPLEANDPOMEGRANATEINSPICEDYOGURT]
Youcanaddasmallcubed,cookedpotatotothisraitaforaddedcreaminess.FruitisnotoftenfoundaspartofamainmealinIndiaasit’sexpensive–thisisanexception.Theraitashouldhavesweet,salty,tangyflavours.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes
½teaspooncuminseeds200gfull-fatyogurtlargepinchoffreshlygroundblackpepper1½teaspoonscastersugar(ormoreorlessto
taste)¼teaspoonmediumredchillipowderalargehandfuloffresh,cubedpineapple2tablespoonspomegranateseeds
fewsprigsoffreshcorianderleaves,finelychoppedsalt
1Heatafryingpanoverahighheat,addthecuminseedsanddry-toastuntiltheybegintodarkenanddevelopanaroma.Removefromtheheatandcrushtoapowderinapestleandmortar.2Combinetheyogurtwiththepepper,sugar,chillipowderandgroundcumininabowlandseasonwithsalt.3Stirinthepineapple.Pourintoaservingbowl.4Halvethepomegranate,holdthecutsideoverabowlandtaptheskinfirmlytodislodgetheseeds.5Sprinklewiththepomegranateseedsandfreshcoriander.Servecold.
GajarNoSambharo
[WARMCARROTSALAD]
ThisdelightfulGujaratisidedishisservedwithmainmeals.Hereit’smadewithcarrot,butitcanalsobemadewithfinelyshreddedcabbageorrawpapaya.Itissometimesservedasanaccompanimenttocrisp,savouryandsweetSundaybreakfastsnackssuchas‘ganthiya’,whicharecrispwafersmadewithgramflourandspices,and‘jalebi’,arichsweetmadewithflour,deep-friedandsoakedinstickysugarsyrup.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING10minutes
1teaspoonvegetableoil½teaspoonblackmustardseeds½teaspooncuminseedspinchofasafoetida½teaspoonwhitesesameseeds2largecarrots,peeledandfinelygratedpinchofcaster
sugar2tablespoonsfreshcorianderleaves,finelychoppedsalt
1Heattheoilinasmallsaucepanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheybegintopop,addthecuminseeds,asafoetidaandsesameseeds.Fryforafewseconds.2Tipinthegratedcarrots,seasonwithsalt,addthesugarandcook,stirring,overamediumheatfor5–6minutes.Removefromtheheat.3Stirinthecorianderandservewarm.
ChawliRajmaKaSalaad
[BEANSALAD]
Iusetinnedbeansforthisrecipetosavetimeandbecauseitiseasier–youcanswaptheonesI’veusedintherecipebelowforanyfirmbeansyoulike.Ifcookingyourownbeans,makesurethattheyaresoakedovernightandcookeduntilverytender.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes
½teaspooncuminseeds½x400gcanofblack-eyedbeans,drainedandrinsed½x400gcanofredkidneybeans,
drainedandrinsed½teaspooncastersugar2springonions,finelydiced3–4frondsoffreshdill,finelychopped1teaspoonlemonjuicesmallsprigoffreshcorianderleaves,finelychoppedsaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
1Heatafryingpanoverahighheat,addthecuminseedsanddry-toastuntiltheybegintodarkenanddevelopanaroma.Removefromtheheatandcrushtoapowderinapestleandmortar.2Mixalltheingredientstogetherinabowl,seasonwithsaltandpepperandserveatonce.
TikhatKeli
[SWEETANDSPICYBANANASALAD]
Thisisagoodwaytouseupripebananasastheyaddalovelyflavourandcreaminesstoaspicymeal.
Serves4PREPARATION→5minutesCOOKING5minutes
½teaspooncuminseeds2teaspoonsvegetableoil¼teaspoonmediumredchillipowder2ripebananas,peeledandthicklysliced1tablespoon
lemonjuice,toservesaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
1Heatafryingpanoverahighheat,addthecuminseedsanddry-toastuntiltheybegintodarkenanddevelopanaroma.Removefromtheheatandcrushtoapowderinapestleandmortar.2Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheatandaddthegroundspices.Whentheybegintosizzle,add3tablespoonsofwaterandseasonwithsaltandpepper.3Whenthewaterhasevaporatedandthespiceshavecooked,foldinthebananasandcookthemforacoupleofminutes.Servewarmorcold,drizzledwiththelemonjuice.
FruitChaat
[FRUITSALADWITHTANGYSPICES]
Thisiseatenasasnack,soldasstreetfoodandsometimesaccompaniesamainmeal.Thefruitvariesseasonallyaswellasregionally.Insummer,mangoesareaddedingrowingregionssuchasMaharashtra,GujaratandUttarPradesh.Inthenorth,pearsfromHimachalPradeshandUttarPradeshareused.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes
200gmixed,freshfirmfruit,suchasmango,apple,pear,wholegrapes,banana,papayaormelon,dicedasyouwish¼teaspoonmediumredchillipowderpinchofchaatmasala
1teaspoonlemonjuice
1Putalltheingredientsinabowl,mixtogetherlightlyandserveatonce.
VangyacheBhareet
[ROASTEDAUBERGINEWITHYOGURT]
ThisMaharashtriansidedishhassomevariations,dependingonpersonalpreference,suchasonewheretheonionisstirredinraworanotherwhereatemperingofmustardseedsisaddedontop.Ilikethesweetnessofcookedredonioncombinedwiththetangoftomatointhisrecipe.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,pluschillingtimeCOOKING20minutes
1largeaubergine1tablespoonvegetableoil1mediumredonion,finelychopped1mediumfreshgreenchilli,
finelychopped1tablespoonchoppedfreshcorianderleaves1tomato,finelychopped150gnaturalyogurt
salt
1Placetheaubergineonagashobwithoutbrushingwithoil.Turnfromtimetotime(forroughly7–8minutes)withapairoftongsuntilyoucanpiercethethickestparteasilywithaknife.Bythistimetheskinwilllookcrinklyandcrisp.Leavetocoolthenpeeloffskinwithasmallknifeorwithyourfingers.2Discardthestalkandmashthefleshoftheaubergineinabowlwithafork.Setaside.3Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheat,addtheonionandfryfor7–8minutesuntilsoft.Addthechilli,coriander,tomatoandsalttoseason,thenaddthemixturetothemashedaubergine.Mixintheyogurtandchillbeforeserving.
BengaliTomatoRaita
Kalonjiisvariouslyknownasonionseed,blackcuminorblackcarawaybutactually,itisnoneofthese.IntheWestitisknownasnigellaandisasmallblackseedwiththeflavourofonionandpepper.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes
150gfull-fatyogurt2tomatoes,finelydiced1tablespoonmustardorvegetableoil½teaspooncuminseeds½teaspoonnigellaseeds(kalonji)saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
1Combinetheyogurtandtomatoesinabowlandseasonwithsaltandpepper.2Heatthemustardoiltoalmostsmokingpointinasmallfryingpan.Removefromtheheatandleavetocoolslightly,thenaddthecuminandnigellaseeds.Assoonastheystarttosizzleanddevelopanaroma,pourthemintothebowl.Stirandserve.Ifusingvegetableoil,simplyheattheoilinasmallfryingpanandaddtheseeds.Servecold.
MungChaat
[SPROUTEDMUNGBEANSSALAD]
SproutsareverypopularinIndiancookingbecausetheavailabilityofsomanybeansandalargelywarmclimateallowshomecookstousethetechniqueofsproutingfairlyregularly(seeUsingLentils).Also,sproutingmakesbeanseasiertodigestasthecomplexcarbohydratesbreakdownintosimplercarbohydrates.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plussoakingandsproutingtimeCOOKING10minutes
½teaspooncuminseeds80gmungbeans,sprouted⅓cucumber,finelydiced,skinon1tomato,finelydiced1redonion,finelydicedjuiceof½lemonalargehandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,finelychoppedsaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
1Heatafryingpanoverahighheat,addthecuminseedsanddry-toastuntiltheybegintodarkenanddevelopanaroma.Removefromtheheatandcrushtoapowderinapestleandmortar.2Steamthemungbeansproutsfor5–6minutesuntiljusttender,thensetasidetocool.3Combinethecucumber,tomato,onionandcumininabowl.Seasonwithsaltandpepperanddrizzleinthelemonjuice.4Gentlystirinthesteamedsprouts,addthecorianderandtossthesalad.Serveatonce.
LasnachiChutneyImliKiChutneyThakkaliPachadiBrinjalChutneyInchiPachadiPudineKiChutneyGreenMangoPachadiAamKaChhundaSebKiChutneyKhajurAurDhaniyeKiChutneyNimbuKaMeethaAchaarGajarGobiShalgamKaAchaarKajuChutneyDhaarunJiChutneyKachaAmerAchaarHaldiKaAcharKothimeeraPodiBilahirTok
INDIANSLOVE‘ACHAAR’ORPICKLESANDAVASTNUMBERARECOMMERCIALLYAVAILABLEORMADEATHOMEWITHSEASONALVEGETABLESANDFRUITTOBE
CONSUMEDWITHMAINMEALSORSNACKSTHROUGHOUTTHEYEAR.
EveryIndiankitchenhasanassortmentofchutneys,picklesandrelishesthatareplacedonthetablealongwithameal.ChutneycomesfromtheHindi‘chatna’or‘tolick’.Itisanaccompanimentmadeoffruit,vegetablesorlentilsandspicesthatishighlyflavouredandservedinsmallquantitieswithamealtoaddalittletopnoteofconcentratedflavour–usuallysalty,sour,hot,sweet(oracombination).
Chutneyscanbewetorpowderydryandtheycanbemadewithfreshingredientssuchascorianderleaves,gingerandgreenchilliesorwithstorecupboardingredientssuchasdesiccatedcoconutanddriedredchillies.Chutneysmadewithfreshingredientshavetobeeatenwithinacoupleofdayswhereasdryonesorthosewithalotofsugar(suchasmangochutney)canbestored.
Chutneysservetopersonaliseameal–onememberofthefamilymayenjoyspicierfoodthantherestandwillservethemselvesaportionofhotmangoorchillipickletoincreasethelevelofheat.ItisonlyinIndianrestaurantsthatyouwillfindaplateofpoppadumsbeingservedwithchutneysandrelishesatthestartofameal.
Eachfamilyhasaselectionoftheirfavouritepicklesor‘achaar’,andtheserecipesarepasseddownthegenerations.Eachregionandcommunityalsohastheirownspecialones–theGajarGobiShalgamKaAchaarisoneofnorthIndia’sfavouritepickles,whereasthetendermangopickle‘avakkai’ispreferredinsouthIndiaandisrelishedwithamixtureofplainyogurtwithrice.
Picklesaremadewithseasonalingredients–somearemadetobeeatenwithinafewdayswhereasothersarecookedinsugarorspicesandcanbeeatenoverayear.Manyofthesearesun-driedanditiscommontoseejarsofpicklesmaturingonsunnyterracesduringthesummer.Sun-dryingmaturesthemandincreasestheirshelflife.Inanycase,allpickleshavetobetreatedwithcareiftheyaretolast–neveruseawetspoonandmakesuretosealyourjarsastightlyasyoucantokeepairandmoistureout.
Relishesaremadefromhighlyflavoured,seasonalvegetablesservedtoadda
burstofflavourtoameal.Somerelishesaremadeinparticularseasonstoboostimmunity,suchasafreshIndiangooseberry(amla)one,whichiseateninthewinterbecauseofitsveryhighvitaminCcontent,whichrangesbetween400–600mgper100goffruit.
SOURINGAGENTSDifferentregionsinIndiauseavarietyofsouringagentsindifferentways.Lemonandlimeareusedalloverthecountry.
TAMARIND→ManyIndianpeopleremembereatingtamarindpulpaschildren,withfriends,hiddenawayfromdisapprovingadults,onhot,lazyafternoons.Itssoursweetnessisallthemoretastywithasprinklingofcoarsesalt.Childrenmercilesslystonethetreetogetthefruit.Inthehotsummermonths,ballsoftamarindarelaidouttodryinthesun,especiallyincentralandsouthernIndia.Theyarethenstoredinearthenjarsandbitsarebrokenoffasandwhenrequiredtousethroughouttheyear.Tomaketamarindpulp.
KOKUM→ThekokumfruitisnativetoIndiaandisusedintheregionalcookeryofGujarat,Maharashtraandafewsouthernstates,wherebigglassesofkokumsherbetaredrunkthroughouttheparchedsummermonths.Thefruitisroundandabout2.5cmindiameter.Itisdeeppurplewhenripeandcontains5–8largeseeds.Thefruitsarepickedwhenripethentherindisremoved,soakedrepeatedlyinthejuiceofthepulpandsun-dried.Therindisusedasasouringagent.
Sun-driedkokumpetalsaredarkpurpletoblackandratherstickywithcurlededges.Sometimestheentirefruitishalvedanddried,sothatthedriedseedsarevisibleintheirchambers,likeahalvedorange.Whenaddedtofood,itimpartsabeautifulpinkish-purplecolour.
VINEGAR→InIndia,theinclusionofvinegarincookeryislimitedtoafewcommunities.Ofthese,theParseesandtheGoanshavebeenmostinfluencedbyinternationalcuisinesandusemany‘Western’ingredientslikepasta,marzipanandvinegar.Themostcommonlyusedvinegarsaremaltandwhite.Inthenorth,vinegaror‘sirka’ismadebyfermentingsugarcanejuice.InGoa,itismadefromcoconutsap.Coconutvinegarisslightlycloudyandyeasty.
Atraditionalwayofusingvinegarincurriesistogrindthecurryspiceswithit.
Gourmetsclaimthatthebestflavourisachievedwhenthisisdoneonaroughgrindingstone.Theresultingpasteisusedasamarinadeorfriedinhotoilbeforeaddingmeatorfish.Alternatively,vinegarcanbeaddedtothedishduringcooking.VinegarisalsousedforpicklingvegetablesasinthePunjabiGajarGobiShalgamKaAchaar.InGoa,‘tendli’orbabyivygourdsaswellasaubergines,calledbrinjalslocally,arepickledinvinegar.
MASTERCLASS
HOWTOMAKETAMARINDPULP
Tamarindisasausage-shapedfruitthatgrowsonlargetrees(seehere).Thepodsripeninthesummerandtheshellbecomesbrittle.Thefruitinsideispulpyandisheldtogetherbyafibroushusk.Withinthispulparesquare-ish,darkbrown,shinyseeds.Itisthepulpthatisusedforitssweet,sour,fruityaromaandtaste.Itisavailableasapressed,fibrousslab,orasajam-likebottledconcentrate.Asslabs,youcanbuy‘wet’or‘dry’tamarind.Thewetoneissoftertosquashandeasiertousewhereasthedryoneismoredifficulttobreakdown.
YOUWILLNEED:¼block(about100g)wettamarindwarmwater,tocoverthetamarind–sieve–bowl
1Soaktheblockoftamarindinwarmwaterforabout15minutes.Onceitsoftens,squashitintoapastewithyourfingersandpassitthroughasieve.Thefinepulpandjuicewillgothrough,leavingbehindthefibroushusk.
2Putsomemorewaterinthesieveanddoasecondpressing.Youshouldbeabletoseetheseedsandfibres.Discardthese.Youshouldhave5–6tablespoonsofpulp.Thepulpwillkeepwellinthefridge,inanairtightcontainer,forupto3weeks.
TIPIfallthisseemstootimeconsuming,youcanbuyajaroftamarindpulporpaste.Thisisdifferentfromandmuchbetterthanjarsoftamarindconcentrate,whichIfindtoodarkandgooey.
MASTERCLASS
DHANIYEKICHUTNEY–CorianderandPeanutChutney
GreencorianderchutneyistheubiquitousdippingsauceinIndia.Asitmademostlyofherbs,somethickeningneedstobeadded.InGujaratandMaharashtra,thismaybelocallygrowncoconutorpeanuts,whereasinthenorthitcouldbeaninexpensiveonionormoreexpensivenutssuchasalmonds,whichareaninfluencefromMughalcookery.
Makesabout200gPREPARATION→10minutes
YOUWILLNEED:2goodhandfulsoffreshcoriander,stalksandleaves,washedandroughlychopped
1.25cmpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedandchopped2freshgreenchillies,roughlychopped2tablespoonsroastedunsaltedpeanutsorfreshlygratedcoconutorboth1tablespooncastersugar
agoodsqueezeoflemonjuicesalt
1Putthecorianderinablenderwiththeginger,chilliesandpeanutsorcoconutorboth.Blitztoafinepastewith3–4tablespoonsofcoldwaterthenaddthesugar.
2Seasonwithsalt,addthelemonjuiceandmixwell.Thefinaltextureshouldbethickandcreamy.Storeinanairtightcontainerinthefridgeforupto3days.
LasnachiChutney
[DRYCOCONUTANDGARLICFIREBALLCHUTNEY]
ThisstorablechutneyfromMaharashtraisawonderfulcombinationofflavour,heatandtexture.Itisusedasanaccompanimenttosnacksordosasorsprinkledintosandwiches,thicklyspreadwithbutterandfilledwithcucumberandtomato.ItisalsoassociatedwithaMumbaistreetfoodcalled‘vadapav’whereanAlooBondaisstuffedintoabreadrollandsprinkledwiththischutney.Asthisisadrychutney,nowaterisaddedwhileblitzingittoapowderandtheamchoorcannotbesubstitutedwitha‘wet’souringagentlikelemonjuice.Ifyoucan’tfindamchoor,youcansqueezeinalittlelemonjuicewhenservingthechutney.Youmayfindthatyouhavetousethepulsemodeonyourmachineasthecoconutcanbecomeclaggywithprolongedblitzing.
Makesabout200gPREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING6minutes
1teaspoonwhitesesameseeds100gdesiccatedcoconut2tablespoonsroastedunsaltedpeanuts4largegarliccloves,chopped2tablespoons
medium-hotredchillipowder(orlessifyouwantamildchutney)1teaspooncastersugar1teaspoonamchoor(driedmangopowder)salt
1Heatasmallfryingpanoverahighheat,addthesesameseedsandcoconutanddry-toastfor5–6minutesuntiltheybegintoturngolden.Removefromtheheat,transfertoablenderorcoffeemillandblitz,alongwiththepeanutsandgarlic,tomakeacoarsepowder.Don’taddanywatertotheblenderasthisisadrychutney.2Tipthechutneyintoabowlandaddthechillipowder,salttoseason,sugarandamchoor.3Storeinaclean,sterilisedglassjarinthefridgeforupto4months.
ImliKiChutney
[SWEETTAMARINDCHUTNEY]
Anotherclassicdippingsauce,whichisanessentialpartofstreetfood,thistamarindchutneyisservedwithfoodssuchasOnionBhajiasorSevPuri,madebytoppingcrisppuriswithmashedpotatoesorchickpeasanddrizzlingwithaspicymintchutneyandthissweetchutney.
Makesabout250gPREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING10minutes
1teaspooncuminseeds4tablespoonsgratedjaggeryorsoftbrownsugar4tablespoonstamarindpulporshop-boughttamarindpastealargepinchofmedium-hotredchillipowdersalt
1Heatafryingpanoverahighheat,addthecuminseedsanddry-toastuntiltheybegintodarkenanddevelopanaroma.Removefromtheheatandcrushtoapowderinapestleandmortar.2Putthejaggeryorsugarandtamarindinapan,bringtotheboil,reducetheheattolowandsimmerfor4–5minutesuntilthemixtureturnsshinyandthejaggeryhascompletelydissolved.Ifthemixturestartstogettoodryandsticky,addacoupleoftablespoonsofwater.3Addthegroundtoastedcuminandchilli,seasonwithsalt,thensimmerforafurthercoupleofminutes.4Removefromtheheat,leavetocoolandserveatroomtemperature.Storeinanairtightcontainerinthefridgeforupto4weeks.
MASTERCLASS
THENGAICHUTNEY–WhiteCoconutChutney
ThiscreamychutneyismaderegularlyinTamilhouseholdsandisservedwithbreakfastfoodssuchasdosas.Desiccatedcoconutdoesnotworkwellhereasitistoodryanddoesnothavethelevelofcreaminessthischutneyneeds.Youcanreduceorincreasethenumberofchilliesasperyourtaste.
Makesabout200gPREPARATION→20minutesCOOKING7–8minutes
YOUWILLNEED:1tablespoonsplitgramlentils(chanadal)alargehandfuloffreshlygratedcoconut2
freshgreenchillies,chopped1tablespooncoconutorvegetableoil1teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseeds½
teaspoonwhiteuraddalalargepinchoffreshcurryleavessalt
1Heatasmallfryingpanoverahighheat,addthechanadalanddry-toastuntilitbeginstodarken.Tipitintoablender,addthecoconut,greenchillies,salttoseasonandafewtablespoonsofwaterandblitztoafinepurée.Pourthepuréeintoaservingbowl.
2Heattheoilinasmallpanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Assoonastheybegintopop,addtheuraddalandfryforafewsecondsuntilitstartstoturngolden,thenaddthecurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanastheleaveswillsplutter)andstirthismixtureintothechutney.
3Storeinanairtightcontainerinthefridgeforupto3days.
ThakkaliPachadi
[TOMATOANDCOCONUTCHUTNEY]
SouthIndianrestaurantsoftenservetwokindsofchutneysandsambharwiththeirdosas.OneisWhiteCoconutChutneyandtheotheristhisredversion,whichishotterandtangier.
Makesabout200gPREPARATION→20minutes,plus10minutessoakingtimeCOOKING10minutes
2tablespoonscoconutorvegetableoil1tablespoonsplitgramlentils(chanadal)1onion,diced
2driedredchillies,cutopen,deseededandsoakedinwarmwaterfor10minutes2ripetomatoes,chopped
1.25cmpieceoffreshrootginger4tablespoonscoconutmilk1teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseedsapinchoffreshcurryleavesapinchofasafoetidasalt
1Heathalftheoilinafryingpanoverahighheat,addthechanadalandfryuntilitbeginstodarken.Addtheonionandfryoveramediumheatfor7–8minutesuntilverysoft.2Drainthechilliesandaddthemtothepan.Cookforacoupleofminutesthenmixinthetomatoesandginger.Cookfor5–6minutesuntilthetomatoeshavesoftened.3Transferthismixturetoablender,addthecoconutmilkandblitztoafinepurée.4Pourthepuréeintoaservingbowlandseasonwithsalt.5Heattheremainingoilinasmallfryingpanoverahighheat,addthemustardseedsandfryuntiltheybegintopop,thenaddthecurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanastheleaveswillsplutter)andasafoetidaandremovefromtheheat.Stirthisintothechutney.Storeinanairtightcontainerinthefridgeforup
to3days.
BrinjalChutney
[SOURANDHOTAUBERGINECHUTNEY]
Aubergineshaveameatytextureandpreservewell.Topreparetheauberginehere,youcanalsodiceitanddeep-fryitinveryhotoil.Ihaveroasteditasonhereforahealthieroption.ThissouthIndianrecipecanbeenjoyedwithamainmealorbreakfastfoodssuchasidlisanddosas.
Makesabout250gPREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING25minutes
1largeaubergine2tablespoonssunflowerorcoconutoil1tablespoonunsaltedcashewnuts2freshgreenchillies,diced3garliccloves,peeledanddiced2.5cmpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedanddiced1tablespoontamarindpulporshop-boughttamarindpaste2tomatoes,diced1teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseeds1teaspooncuminseedsalargepinchoffreshcurryleavessalt
1Roasttheaubergineunderagrilloroveragasflameuntilcooked(seehere).Peelandroughlychoptheflesh.2Heathalftheoilinafryingpanoverahighheat,addthecashewnutsandfryfor2–3minutesuntiltheystarttodarken.Addthechillies,garlicandgingerandfryoveramediumheatforacoupleofminutes.3Stirinthetamarindpulpanddicedtomatoesandcookfor4–5minutesuntilsoft,addingapinchofsalttohastenthecookingprocess.4Removefromtheheatandmixinthecooked,peeledandchoppedaubergine.Transfertoablenderandblitztoapurée,thentransfertoabowl.
5Heattheremainingoilinasmallfryingpanoverahighheat,addthemustardseedsandfryuntiltheybegintopop,thentipinthecuminseedsandcurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanastheleaveswillsplutter).6Pourthistemperingoverthechutney,thenseasonwithsalt,stirandserveatroomtemperature.Anyleftoverchutneycanbestoredinanairtightcontainerinthefridgeforacoupleofdays.
InchiPachadi
[FRESHGINGERRAITA]
InKerala,thischutneyisservedwithriceordosasandidlis.
Makesabout175gPREPARATION→15minutes
3tablespoonsfreshlygratedcoconut2.5cmpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedandchopped1freshgreenchilli
½teaspooncuminseeds100gnaturalyogurt1teaspooncastersugarsalt
1Putthecoconut,ginger,chilliandcuminseedsinablender,alongwithbarelyenoughwatertocoverthemixture,andblitzuntilveryfine.2Pourintoasmallservingbowlandstirintheyogurt.Seasonwithsalt,addthesugarandmixwell.Storeinanairtightcontainerinthefridgeforupto2days.
PudineKiChutney
[MINTANDCORIANDERCHUTNEY]
Servedwithallkindsofkebabsandsnacks,suchassamosasorbhajias,thisalsomakesagreatsandwichspreadwithafillingofthinlyslicedtomatoandcucumber.
Makesabout200gPREPARATION→10minutes
2goodhandfulsoffreshcoriander(leavesandstalks),chopped2garliccloves,chopped1.25cmpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedandchopped2freshgreenchillies,roughly
choppedahandfuloffreshmintleaves,chopped1smallonionagoodsqueezeoflemonjuicesalt
1Putthecorianderinablender,addthegarlic,ginger,chillies,mintandonionandblitztoafinepaste,addingalittlebitofcoldwatertoturntheblades.2Seasonwithsalt,addthelemonjuiceandmixwell.Storeinanairtightcontainerinthefridgeforupto3days.
GreenMangoPachadi
[MANGOANDCOCONUTCHUTNEY]
SouthIndiaisfamousforchutneysthatareeatenwitheverymealfrombreakfasttodinner.YoucansubstitutethegreenmangowithanequalquantityofacookingapplesuchasBramley.
Makesabout150gPREPARATION→5minutesCOOKING10minutes
2tablespoonsvegetableoil1freshgreenchilli,chopped1driedredchilli,splitandseedsshakenout1teaspoonwhiteuraddal,washed1onion,diced
2cheeksofgreenmango,peeledanddiced2tablespoonsfreshlygratedcoconutor3tablespoonscoconutmilkpinchofcastersugar
½teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseeds½teaspooncuminseedsapinchoffreshcurryleavessalt
1Heathalftheoilinafryingpanoverahighheatandaddthechilliesanduraddal.Cookfor1–2minutesuntilthedalbecomesgoldenthenaddtheonionandstir-fryfor7–8minutesuntilverysoft.2Addthemangoandseasonwithsalt.Whenthemangosoftens,stirinthegratedcoconutorcoconutmilk,transferthemixturetoablenderandblitzuntilsmooth,addingalittlewatertoturnthebladesifusingfreshcoconut.Pourthechutneyintoaservingbowlandstirinthesugar.3Heattheremainingoilinafryingpanoverahighheat.Addthemustardseedsandfryuntiltheybegintopop,thenaddthecuminseedsandcurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanastheleaveswillsplutter).Wheneverythingsizzles,stirthisintothechutney.Storeinanairtightcontainerinthefridgeforupto2days.
AamKaChhunda
[SWEETMANGOCHUTNEY]
DuringthemangoseasoninIndia,rawmangoesaremadeintosweetorsavourypreserves.ThisrecipeisfromRajasthanandiseatenasasnackwithsavourybiscuitscalled‘puris’orwithmainmeals.Traditionally,jarsofmangoandsugarareplacedintheblazingsummersunforthesugartodissolvebutthisstovetopversionisequallydelicious.
Makesabout1.1kgPREPARATION30minutes,plus4hourssteepingtimeCOOKING40minutes
500gpeeledandgratedrawgreenmango500gcastersugar5cloves1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1tablespoonsalt
1Combinealltheingredientsinasaucepan,coverandsetasidefor4hourstosteep.2Placeoveramediumheatandcookfor40minutesuntilthemixturehasthickened,stirringfrequentlytopreventitfromstickingtothebottomofthepan.3Coolcompletely,transfertoasterilisedglassjar(orjars)andstoreinthefridgeforupto2months.
SebKiChutney
[GREENAPPLECHUTNEY]
Myappletreeproducesafabulouscropofcookingappleseveryyear.Ihavemadeseveralversionsofthischutneyovertheyears,somesweetandothersmoresavouryandhot.Thetartnessoftheappleshereislikethatofrawgreenmangoes,whicharefrequentlyusedinIndianpreserves,alongwithotherseasonalsourfruitsuchasapples,gooseberriesandberries.
Makesabout350gPREPARATION→25minutesCOOKING15minutes
½teaspooncuminseeds½teaspoonfennelseeds1tablespoonvegetableoil½teaspooncrushedblackpepper½teaspoonmedium-hotred
chillipowder2cookingapples,peeledandroughlychopped1teaspoongratedfreshrootginger1tablespooncastersugar1tablespoondistilledwhitevinegarsalt
1Heatasmallfryingpanoverahighheat,addthecuminandfennelseedsanddry-toastuntiltheydarken,thentipthemintoapestleandmortarorspicemillandcrushorblendtoafinepowder.2Heattheoilinaheavysaucepanoverahighheatandaddthepepperandchillipowder.Whentheystarttosizzle,addtheapplesandginger.Seasonwithsaltandstirinthesugar.Sprinkleinthepowderedspicesfromthemortarorspicemill.3Cookoveramediumheatfor8–10minutesuntiltheapplesareverysoft,thenmixinthevinegar.Removefromtheheat,leavetocoolandstoreinasterilisedairtightjarinthefridgeforupto2weeks.
KhajurAurDhaniyeKiChutney
[DATEANDCORIANDERCHUTNEY]
InwesternandnorthernIndia,thissweet,spicy,tangychutneyisservedwithfriedsnackssuchasbhajiaandpakoras.Datesbringafruitysweetness,thecorianderaherbyfreshnessandthetamarind,awonderfultang.
Makesabout200gPREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING20minutes
150gstoneddates3tablespoonstamarindpulporshop-boughttamarindpaste½teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder½teaspooncuminseeds1.25cmpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedalargehandfuloffreshcorianderleaves,choppedsalt
1Putthedatesinasaucepanwithjustenoughwatertocoverthem.Bringtotheboilandaddthetamarindpulp,thenreducetheheattomediumandsimmerfor7–8minutestosoftenthedates.2Removefromtheheatandleavetocoolslightlythentransfertoablenderalongwiththechillipowder,cuminseeds,gingerandcoriander,seasonwithsaltandblitzuntilsmooth.3Storeinanairtightcontainerinthefridgeforupto3days.
NimbuKaMeethaAchaar
[SWEETLIMEPICKLE]
Traditionally,Indianlemonswouldbeusedforthisrecipe–thesearethesizeoflimesfoundintheWest,yellow,thin-skinnedandjuicy.YoucoulduseWesternlemonsbutastheyhaveathickerskinandrind,andlessjuicethanlimes,thetextureofthepicklewillbedifferentandyouwillalsoneedthejuiceofacouplemorelemons.Thisquickandeasypicklecanbestoredforuptoamonthinthefridge.
Makesabout500gPREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING40minutes
5limes,plusthejuiceof2limes2teaspoonssalt1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder200gcastersugar2cinnamonsticks
1Putthe5wholelimesintoapanwithenoughwatertocoverthemandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor35minutesuntiltheyareverysoft.Drainandleavetocool.Dryeachlimecompletelywithacleanteatowel.2Inabowl,cutthecookedlimesinto8pieceseach,allowingthejuicetofallbackintothebowl.Addthejuiceofthe2extralimes,thesaltandchillipowderandmixwell.3Startmixinginthesugar,alittleatatime,untilitdissolves.Onceallthesugarismixedin,transferthepickletoaclean,sterilisedglassjar.Addthecinnamon,sealandleaveittostandfor3–4daysatroomtemperatureinacool,darkplace,shakingthejarfromtimetotime.Inadayorso,thesugarwillformasyrup.Theskinsofthelimesmaytastebitteratfirstbutthissubduesasthepicklematures.Storeinanasterilised,airtightjarinthefridgeforuptoamonth.
GajarGobiShalgamKaAchaar
[CARROT,CAULIFLOWERANDTURNIPPICKLE]
Apopularsweet,sourandspicyPunjabipickle,thisismadeinthewintertobestoredandeatenthroughtheyearwithRotisandParathas.
Makesabout1.5kgPREPARATION→30minutesCOOKING40minutes
200ggratedjaggeryorsoftbrownsugar150mldistilledwhitevinegar250gcarrots,peeledandcutintolongthickstrips250gcauliflower,cutintosmallflorets250gturnip,peeledandcutintolongthinstrips200mlmustardoil2tablespoonsginger-garlicpaste2tablespoonsblackorbrownmustardseeds,crushedcoarselyinapestleandmortar2teaspoonsmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongroundturmeric2teaspoonsgarammasala6teaspoonssalt,plusextraforseasoningthecookingwater
1Putthejaggeryorsugarandvinegarinasmallsaucepanandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor7–8minutesuntilthejaggeryorsugarhasdissolved.Continuecookinguntilthemixturethickensslightly.2Bringapanofwatertotheboil,addalittlesaltandblanchthevegetablesfor3–4minutes.3Drainthevegetables,thenspreadthemoutonacleanteatoweltodrycompletely.Thereshouldbenomoistureorthepicklewillspoil.Ifyouwanttobesure,youcanfinishdryingthevegetablesonatrayintheovenat40°C/gasmark¼for30minutes.4Heatthemustardoilinalargefryingpanuntilitisalmostsmoking.Reducetheheattoleaveittocooldownslightlythenaddtheginger-garlicpaste.Fryfora
fewseconds,thenaddthedryvegetables,mustardseeds,chillipowder,turmeric,garammasalaandsalt.5Mixwellandaddthevinegarandjaggerymixture.Stirandsimmerfor6–8minutes.6Removefromtheheatandleavetocoolcompletely,thentransfertoasterilisedglassjarandstoreinthefridgeforupto4months.
MASTERCLASS
PRAWNBALCHAO–SpicyGoanPrawnPickle
Youwillfindjarsofthishot,tangy,slightlysweetpicklebeingsoldinmanyshopsinGoa,anditisdelicious,butittastesevenbetterhomemadebecauseofthebetter-qualityingredientsonecanchoosetouse.
Makesabout600gPREPARATION→40minutesCOOKING45minutes
YOUWILLNEED:250mlvegetableoil(moreorlessdependingonyourstoragejar)400grawprawns,
shelledanddeveinedalargepinchoffreshcurryleaves2.5cmpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedandshredded4garliccloves,minced3onions,thinlysliced2teaspoonssalt2tablespoonsgratedjaggeryorsoftbrownsugarForthespicepaste20driedredKashmirichillies(shaketheseedsoutifyouwantamilderflavour)2.5cm
pieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedandchopped2garliccloves2teaspoonscuminseeds4tablespoonstamarindpulporshop-boughttamarindpaste200mlcoconutvinegar
orothervinegar
1Putalltheingredientsforthespicepasteinablenderandblitztoaveryfinepurée.
2Heatacoupleoftablespoonsofvegetableoilinalargefryingpanoverahighheat,addtheprawnsandfryfor7–8minutesuntiltheyareopaqueallthewaythrough.Transfertokitchenpapertodrainandleavetocool.
3Addafurther2tablespoonsofoiltothepanandfrythecurryleavesfora
fewseconds(standingbackfromthepanastheleaveswillsplutter),thenreducetheheattomedium,tipinthegingerandgarlicandcookforafewminutestosoften,takingcarenottoburnthegarlic.Addtheonionsandcookfor8–10minutesuntilverysoftandgolden.
4Addthespicepastetothepanandcontinuecookingfor4–5minutesuntiltheoilstartstoseparatearoundtheedges.Seasonwiththesaltandaddthejaggeryorsugar.Stiruntilithasdissolved.
5Choptheprawnsroughlyandaddthesetothepan.Cookfor4–5minutestoblendtheflavours.
6Removefromtheheatandleavetocoolcompletelythenspoonintoaclean,sterilisedglassjar.Topwithoil,makingsurethatthepickleiscompletelysubmergedandthereforesealedfrommoistureandair.Seal,storeinthefridgeandconsumewithin1week.
KajuChutney
[CASHEWNUTCHUTNEY]
CashewnutsgrowinpeninsularIndiaandareusedineverydaycookinginsomeregionssuchasKarnatakaandMaharashtra.ThischutneyismildandcreamyandgoeswellwithfriedfoodssuchasBhajiasandAlooBondaasadip.Youcanbuybrokenorsplitcashewnutsforthisastheyarecheaperthanthewholeones.Youcanalsoaddatablespoonofskinnedroastedpeanutsforadifferentflavour.
Makesabout200gPREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING10minutes
2teaspoonsvegetableoil100gunsaltedcashewnuts1freshgreenchilli,chopped1.25cmpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedandchoppedalargesqueezeoflemonjuice½teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseedsasmallpinchoffreshcurryleavessalt
1Heathalftheoilinafryingpanoverahighheat,addthecashewnutsandfryfor4–5minutesuntilslightlygoldenbrown.2Drainandputthemintoablenderalongwiththechilli,gingerandenoughwatertobarelycoverthemixture.Blitztoafinepurée.Thechutneyshouldbeofpouringconsistency.Tipitintoaservingbowl,squeezeinthelemonjuiceandseasonwithsalt.3Heattheremainingoilinasmallfryingpanoverahighheatandfrythemustardseeds.Astheybegintopop,addthecurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanastheleaveswillsplutter)thenstirthisintothechutney.4Storeinanairtightcontainerinthefridgeforupto3days.
DhaarunJiChutney
[SINDHIPOMEGRANATECHUTNEY]
TheSindhicommunityhasitsrootsinSind,nowinPakistan.Thecuisineincludesingredientsfromthatregionsuchaspomegranates,lotusstemsandlotusseeds.Blacksalttastessulphuricandissoldas‘kalanamak’inIndiangroceryshops.
Makes200gPREPARATION→15minutes
1teaspooncuminseedsalargehandfuloffreshpomegranateseedsalargehandfuloffreshcorianderleavesalarge
handfuloffreshmintleaves1.25cmpieceoffreshrootginger,scrapedandchopped½teaspooncrushedblack
peppercornsjuiceof½lime¼teaspoonpowderedblacksalt(kalanamak)salt(optional)
1Heatafryingpanoverahighheat,addthecuminseedsanddry-toastuntiltheybegintodarkenanddevelopanaroma.Removefromtheheatandcrushtoapowderinapestleandmortar.2Putthepomegranateseeds,coriander,mintleavesandgingeralongwithalittlewaterintoablenderandblitztoafinepurée.Itshouldbeslightlybutnottoorunny.Pourintoaservingbowl.3Addthegroundtoastedcumin,pepper,limejuiceandblacksaltandmixwell.Tastebeforeaddingmoresaltastheblacksaltmaybeenough.Storeinanairtightcontainerinthefridgeforupto3days.
KachaAmerAchaar
[QUICKBENGALIGREENMANGOPICKLE]
TheuseoftheuniqueBengalifive-spicemixcalled‘panchphoron’withtendermangoesmakesthisafragrant,tangypickle.Panchphoronconsistsofequalpartsofmustard,cumin,fenugreek,fennelandnigellaseeds.Asitis‘cooked’ratherthan‘matured’inthesun,itneedstobeconsumedwithinamonthorso.Suchquickpicklesareoftenmadeinbulkandsmallquantitiesdistributedtofriends.
Makesabout600gPREPARATION→30minutesCOOKING30minutes
2teaspoonspanchphoron200mldistilledwhitevinegar200mlmustardoil5garliccloves,minced500grawgreenmango,washed,completelydriedandcutintobite-sizedpieces,skinon1teaspoonmedium-hotredchillipowder1teaspoongroundturmeric1teaspoongroundcumin2teaspoonssalt
1Heatasmallfryingpanoverahighheat,addthepanchphoronanddry-toastuntilfragrant,thengrindtoafinepowderinaspicemillorpestleandmortar.Mixthiswithacoupleoftablespoonsofthevinegar.2Heattheoilinapanoverahighheatuntilitisalmostsmoking,thenremovefromtheheatandleavetocoolslightly.3Scoop2tablespoonsofthisoilintoafryingpanandaddthemincedgarlic.Leavetheremainingoiltocoolcompletely.Frythegarlicoverahighheatfor2–3minutesuntilgolden,thenaddthemango.Stir-fryfor2–3minutes,thenstirinthechillipowder,turmeric,cumin,saltandthepanchphoronpaste.Pourintheremainingvinegar.
4Cookoverahighheatfor6–7minutesuntilthemixturesizzles,thencoverthepanandcookoveralowheatfor10–15minutesuntilthemangosoftens.5Removefromtheheatandleavetocoolcompletely,thentransferittoasterilised,airtightglassjarandpourinthenowcooledmustardoilsothatthepickleiscompletelysubmerged.Sealthejar,storeinthefridgeandconsumewithin1month.
HaldiKaAchar
[FRESHTURMERICROOTRELISH]
TurmericisoneofthehealthiestspicesusedinIndiancooking.Theactivecompoundcurcuminisconsideredanti-inflammatoryandananti-oxidant,whichmeansthatitcanhelpinhibitcelldamage.ThespicehasbeenpopularinIndianmedicinesuchasAyurvedaforcenturies.ThefreshrootlookslikegingerandcanbefoundinsomeAsianfoodshops.Youmayalsofind‘ambhalad’,aginger-likerootthatsmellsofrawmangoes.Youcanuseamixofbothvarietiesinequalquantitiesinthisrecipe.Wearglovesifyoudon’twantyourhandsstained!
Makesabout100gPREPARATION→10minutes
4teaspoonsfreshturmericroot,scrapedandfinelychoppedoramixofambhalad1teaspoonfinelychoppedfreshrootginger1smallfreshgreenchilli,mincedlemonjuice,tocoverthemixturesalt
1Mixtheturmericroot,gingerandchillitogether,thenpourinthelemonjuiceandseasonwithsalt.Transfertoasterilised,airtightcontainer,sealtightlyandshakewelltoblend.Therelishwillkeepwellforupto1weekinthefridge.
KothimeeraPodi
[SPICYCORIANDERPOWDERCHUTNEY]
SouthIndia,withitstropicalheat,isfondof‘podis’orspicedpowdersthatareeatenwithbreakfastfoodsormixedintoriceatmainmeals.Typicallymadewithlentils,chilliesandspices,thesespicypowdershelptocoolthebodybywayofthecapsaicininthechilliesbuttheyarealsooftenmadeintoacreambymixingthemwithaspoonfulofgheethathelpstocoolthedigestivesystem.ThisrecipefromAndhraPradeshisonlyoneoftheseveralpodismadeinthisstate.
Makesabout100gPREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING15minutes
2largehandfulsoffreshcorianderleaves1tablespoonsplitgramlentils(chanadal)½teaspoonasafoetida3tablespoonsvegetableoil10driedredKashmirichillies,deseeded4tablespoonsdesiccatedcoconut1teaspoonblackorbrownmustardseedssalt
1Washthecorianderleaves,patthemdryandspreadthemoutonacleanteatoweltodry.2Heatasmallfryingpanoverahighheat,addthelentilsanddry-toastthemuntiltheyturngoldenbrown,thentipthemoutintoabowlanddry-toasttheasafoetidaforafewseconds.Tipthisintothelentils.3Chopthecoriander.4Heatatablespoonoftheoilinafryingpanoverahighheat,addthechilliesandfryfor2–3minutesuntiltheydarken.Drainthemandaddthemtothelentils.Addanothertablespoonofoiltothepanandaddthechoppedcoriander.
Cookfor1minute.5Putthechillies,coconut,lentils,corianderandasafoetidaintoaspicemillandblendtoafinepowder.Thiswon’tworkinablenderasthebladeswillnotturnwithoutwater.Tipintoabowlandseasonwithsalt.6Heattheremainingoilinafryingpanoverahighheatandfrythemustardseedsuntiltheybegintopop.Pourthisintothepowderedchutneyandcoolcompletely.7Storeinasterilisedairtightcontainerinthefridgeforuptoamonth.
BilahirTok
[ASSAMESESWEETANDSOURTOMATOCHUTNEY]
ThispopularchutneyisservedwithsoftricecalledkhichdiorfriedPooristoaddaburstoftangy,sweetflavourstothemeal.‘Tok’meanssourinthelocalAssameselanguage,andthetartnessoftomatoesistempereddownbytheadditionofjaggery.PasphuronisthesamemixoffivespicesastheBengalipanchphoron.
Makes200gPREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING20minutes
2tablespoonsmustardoil1teaspoonpasphuron(seePanchPhoron)2bayleaves3driedredchillies3largetomatoes,diced2teaspoonsgratedjaggeryorsoftbrownsugarsalt
1Heattheoiltosmokingpointinafryingpanthenremoveandleavetocoolslightly.Addthepasphuronandassoonasitcrackles,addthebayleavesandredchillies.Cookforafewsecondsoveramediumheatthenaddthetomatoes.2Seasonwithsaltandaddthejaggeryorsugar.Bringtotheboil,thenreducetheheatandsimmerfor10minutesorsountilthetomatoesarecompletelysoftandjammy.Removefromtheheatandleavetocool.3Transfertoanairtightcontainerandstoreinthefridgeforupto3days.
MungDalHalwaShrikhandQubaniKaMeethaChaavalKiKheerShahiTukdeSevianKheerRabdiBesanKeLaddooGajarKaHalwaPuranPoliPhirniGujiyaKelyaMulukSaffronandPistachioIceCreamZardaKadaParshadAamrasMangoSeekaraneMasalaChaiKulfiMangoKulfiKajuBurfieParsiSevMungDalPayasam
INDIA’SVASTRANGEOFSWEET,FRAGRANTFRUITPROVIDESINSPIRATIONFORANENDLESSARRAYOFSWEETS,PUDDINGSANDDESSERTSTHATARECONSUMEDON
FESTIVEDAYSANDHAPPYOCCASIONS,SUCHASBIRTHDAYSOREVENONTHERECEIPTOFEXCELLENTEXAMRESULTS.
Indiacouldverywellbecalledasweet-toothednationgiventhenumberofdesserts,sweetsandconfectionerythatisconsumedeveryday.Honey,sugar,jaggeryorfruitarecookedalongwithvariousflours,seeds,nuts,vegetablesandmilktocreateafantasticvarietyofdelicaciesvariouslycalled‘meetha’(sweetinHindi)or‘mishti’.Theterm‘mithai’isgenerallyusedtodescribethevastrepertoireofdense,setsweetconfections–thosethatcanbecutwithaknife–andtheseincludesuchdelicaciesasburfies,halwas,jalebis,gulabjamuns,rasmalaiandrossogullas.Burfiesareusuallysetinthicksquaresandhavethestickytextureoffudge.Halwasareslightlysofterandcanbescoopedupwithaspoon.Jalebisareextremelysweetconfectionsmadebypipingnestsofaflourandyogurtbatterintohotoil,fryingthem,thenimmersingtheminastickysugarsyrup.Theyarethendrainedandeatenwarmorcold.Gulabjamuns,rasmalaiandrossogullasareallmadebyformingdumplingsofthickenedorsplitmilkwhicharethenpoached(rasmalai,rossogulla)orfried(gulabjamun).Someofthesesweetsaresoakedinsugarsyrup,othersinsweetenedmilk.Theyallhaveasofttexturelikethatofamoistcake.
Manyotherdessertsaresimplycalledsweetdishes–so‘kheer’isamilkypuddingthickenedwithrice,wheatflakes,sagoorfruit.Shrikhand,adense,strainedyogurtdessert,isflavouredwithsaffronandcardamom.
SweetshavebeenmadeandeateninIndiasinceancienttimes.Earlyliteraturetalksabouttheuseofhoneyandevenaftertheproductionofsugar,foresthoneywasstillapreferredsweetener.Sugar,fromtheSanskritword‘sharkara’,wasmadefromsugarcanejuicearound500BCandintroducedtoEuropefromIndiabyAlexandertheGreat’sreturningtroopsaround300BC.TheGreekswereastonishedbyreedsthatproducedhoneywithoutbees,obviouslyreferringtothesugarcanethatgrewinnorthernIndia.AroundthefifthcenturyAD,sugarcrystallisationbeganand,beingeasytotransport,becameoneofIndia’slargestexports.Today,IndiaisaleadingproducerofsugarcaneandthehighestgrowingstatesareUttarPradesh,MaharashtraandTamilNadu.SugarisexportedbyIndiatocountriessuchasSudanandtheUAE.
IndiatocountriessuchasSudanandtheUAE.InanIndianthali,thesweetisservedwiththerestofthecoursesandis
sometimeseatenwithfriedpooris.Thisblurringofcoursesiscommonatweddingfeasts.
JAGGERYApartfromwhitesugar,whichisusedineverydaycookeryaswellasformakingsweets,jaggeryisusedinmanypartsofIndia.
JAGGERY→Sugarcanegrowsinabundanceinthenorth,westandsouthofIndia.Freshlypressedsugarcanejuiceissoldinstreetstalls,oftenwithadashoflimeandgingerjuice.
Duringthemanufactureofsugarfromsugarcanejuice,severalproductsareformed:molasses,alcoholandjaggery.Jaggeryisreducedorcooked-downsugarcanejuicethatformssoftbutsolidblocksandismostlyproducedbysmallcultivatorsinhugecrushersrunbybullocks.Thejaggeryisnotpurifiedandthereforehasallthequalityofthejuiceitself.JaggeryisasimportantassugarinIndiancookery.Ithasaheavy,caramel-likearomaandtastesverysweetandmusky.Itcannotreallybesubstitutedforbysugar,althoughbrownordemerarasugaristheclosestequivalent.Jaggeryisconsideredhealthierthansugarasitcontainsmorecomplexcarbohydratesthatreleaseenergyslowlyratherthaninsimplesugarswhichgetabsorbedintothebloodstreamquickly.Assugarcanejuiceiscookedinlargeironvessels,thejaggeryabsorbssomeofthismineral.Also,jaggeryisarichsourceofphenolicacidsandflavonoids,whichareconsideredanti-inflammatory.IthasheldaspecialplaceinHinduritualasanauspiciousfoodbecauseofitshealthbenefitsandsweettaste.
Jaggeryrangesfrommustardyellowtodeepamberincolour,dependingonthequalityofthesugarcanejuice.Itisstickybutcanbecrumbled,gratedorcuteasily.Itismadeupofbiglumps,whichmelttoformathick,gooeypaste.
Differentvarietiesofjaggeryareavailableandalthoughtheonemadefromsugarcanejuiceismostwidelyavailable,Bengalproducesjaggerythatisespeciallyprized,fromthesapofthelocallygrowndatepalm.Bengalishaveaspecialemotionalresponsetothis‘NolenGur’which,thoughavailablethroughouttheyear,isfreshestforashorttimeinthewinter.Thesapofthepalmiscollectedinearthenpotstobedrunkastoddyortobecookedinhugemetalpotstoformasyrupyjaggerywhich,whensolidifiedtoadensecake,isknownas‘patali’.NolenGurisnotseenmuchoutsideoftheregionwhereitis
knownas‘patali’.NolenGurisnotseenmuchoutsideoftheregionwhereitisproduced.Itisrelishedscoopedupwitharotithenstirredintoyogurt,orcookedwithmilktomakewintersweets.
ThevarietythatismostexportedisKolhapurjaggery.KolhapurisatowninMaharashtra,whichproducesthelargestamountofjaggeryinIndia.Buyasmallamounttotryfirst.Youwillfindthatthejaggeryismouldedinvarioussizesandwrappedinplasticorjutecloth.Tostore,useadrycontainerandkeepinacool,darkplace.Mostjaggerylastsforuptoayear.
MOSTINDIANSWEETSAREFLAVOUREDWITH‘SWEET’SPICESSUCHASCARDAMOMANDSAFFRON.
HONEYHoneyor‘madhu’isconsideredasacredingredientinIndiaandismentionedasahealthfoodinancientHindutextssuchastheVedasfromabout4,000yearsago.Itissaidtobeoneofthefiveelixirsincludingmilk,ghee,yogurtandsugarthatarecombinedtomake‘panchamrita’,afoodthatisconsideredbyAyurvedatobestrengtheningandcleansing.ItisthereforeusedinHinduritualstosymbolisepurityandwellbeing.InHinduliteratureitiscalledthenectarofimmortalityandisvaluedforitshealingproperties.Ayurvedaconsidersitsweetandastringent,withantibacterialpropertiesthatcanhealcutsandwounds.AccordingtotheAshtangaHridayasamhita,atextwrittenbyVagbhata,oneof
AccordingtotheAshtangaHridayasamhita,atextwrittenbyVagbhata,oneofthemostinfluentialwritersofAyurveda,aroundthesixthcentury,‘honeyisgoodfortheeyesandeyesight,itquenchesthirstandhealswounds’.Honeyisalsoreferredtoas‘yogavahi’inAyurveda,whichmeansthatitcanpenetratethedeepesttissuesofthebody.Itisthereforemixedwithmedicinalherbswhoseefficacyitcancarrytothesedeepertissues.Forittobehealing,Ayurvedasuggeststhathoneyshouldnotbeheated,aprecautionnotalwaysfollowedinIndiancookingthathasbeeninfluencedbyforeignculturessuchasinMughalcookery.
WHYAREINDIANDESSERTSSOSWEET?Thereisadistinctdifferencebetweencommerciallymadesweetsandhomemadedesserts.Duetotheintensetropicalheatandtheshortshelflifeofingredientssuchasfruit,vegetablesormilk,plentyofsugarneedstobeaddedtobeabletostoresweetsforlonger.Thisisespeciallytrueofcommercialsweetsthataresoldoverafewdays.Home-cookeddessertsthataretobeconsumedwithinadayortwoofpreparationarethereforelesssweet.
MostIndiansweetsareflavouredwith‘sweet’spicessuchascardamomandsaffron.Theydonotusuallyhavea‘sour’notesuchaslemonora‘bitter’oneasinchocolatethatmanyWesterndessertshave.Theideaistotastethemainingredient–wonderfuldelightssuchasdates,figs,clottedmilk,almondsandpistachiosthatareheldtogetherinasugarsyrupandbutterorghee.Withouttherightquantityofsugar,thesweetwillfallapart.
Whenaretheyeaten?→MostIndiansdonoteatsweetseveryday.Fruitisplentifulandpeoplewhoneedadessertwillchooseasmallbananaoraseasonalmango.However,sweetscomeintotheirownatfestiveandcelebratorytimes.AllreligiousfestivalsinIndiaarelinkedtosweetsandpeoplemakesomeathomeaswellasbuyboxesofassorted‘mithai’togiveasgifts.It’sverymuchlikeintheWestwhereonewouldpossiblymakeapuddingathomebutbuyaboxofassortedchocolates.
Diwali,theHindufestivaloflight,isespeciallyassociatedwith‘mithai’,assweetfoodsareconsideredtreatsinmanyancientcultures.Peoplemakesomesweetsandsnacksathome,weeksinadvance,sothatthereisalwayssomethingspecialtoofferthecountlessvisitorsthatarrive.Burfies,whicharedensefudges,laddoosorroundballsmadeofflourandheldtogetherbyasugarsyrup,halwas
laddoosorroundballsmadeofflourandheldtogetherbyasugarsyrup,halwasorsoftpuddingsandmilkysweetsareallpopularatthistime.
EachHindufestivalisalsolinkedtoaparticularsweetsopeoplelookforwardtoenjoyingitatthattimeofyear.‘Modaks’,riceflourdumplingsfilledwithcoconutandjaggery,aremadefortheGaneshfestivalinhonouroftheelephant-headedgod.Holi,thefestivalofcolour,brings‘puranpoli’orjaggery-andlentil-stuffedpancakes,andthebirthofKrishnaiscelebratedwithmilkysweetsanddessertssuchas‘kheer’.
TheMuslimpopulationmakes‘sheerkurma’andothervermicellipreparationsforEidandtheChristiansbakeplumcakesandcoconutpuddingscalled‘bebinca’forChristmas.Iremember,asachild,eagerlyreceivingsmallbagsofmarzipanandsmall,hand-shapedfanciesofflourandbuttercalled‘kulkuls’fromourChristianfriends.
FLAVOURINGSFORDESSERTSThemainflavouringsaregreencardamomandsaffron,whichyouwillfindinthespiceschapter(seehere).
Roseandscrewpinewater→ThesefloralessencesusedinnorthIndiancookingwereprobablybroughttoIndiabytheMughals.Flowersaresteepedandthearomaticoilsaredistilledandmixedinsmallpartsintowater.Dessertssuchas‘gulabjamun’,ballsofthickenedmilkthataredeepfried,(‘gulab’meansroseinHindi)aresteepedinarosewatersyrup.
Camphor→InsouthIndia,dessertsareflavouredwithediblecamphoror‘karpoora’,aproductfoundinthebarkofthecamphorlaureltree.Onlyaverysmallamountisusedasitsstrong,menthol-likeflavourcanoverpowerthedish.
Ediblesilverandgoldfoil(Varq)→Addedasagarnishoversweetsorrichdishessuchasbiryanis,ediblesilverorgoldfoilcanbeseenshimmeringintheglasscasesofanysweetmeatshop.Tinyballsofgoldorsilverareplacedbetweensheetsoftissuepaperandlaidflatinaleatherpouch.Thisisbeatenrepeatedlybutcarefullywithaheavy,metalhammerflatteningtheballsintosheetsafewmicromillimetresthick.
Varqhasbeencertifiedassafetoeatbyagenciesallovertheworldbutitisnotveryeasilyavailabletoretailbuyers.Whereavailable,itissoldbetweensheetsof
veryeasilyavailabletoretailbuyers.Whereavailable,itissoldbetweensheetsoftissuepaperusuallyinboxes.Eachsheetcontainssuchatinyamountofsilverthatitisnotprohibitivelyexpensiveandhasashelflifeofmanyyears.
Touse,carefullyliftoffasheetofsilverfoilalongwithitslowersheetoftissuepaper.Thenturnitoverontopoftheprepareddishsothatthefoilstickstothefood.Bitswillremainonthepaper,whichcanbepressedonthefoodsimilarly.Itisnearlyimpossibletostickonauniformcoatingofsilverfoil!
MASTERCLASS
SOOJIKAHALWA–SemolinaandSaffronPudding
Thereareseveralregionalnamesforthisdish,suchas‘ravakesari’inthesouthand‘sheera’inMaharashtra,althoughthebasicreciperemainsthesame.Thissaffron-scentedsweetisconsideredfoodforthegodsinHinduismandisoftenmadeonfestivedays.Itissometimesflavouredwithtinybitsofpineappleorbananaandaselectionofnuts.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING20minutes
YOUWILLNEED:150gcoarsesemolina120gcastersugarlargepinchofsaffron5greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded2
teaspoonsraisins150mlmeltedgheeorunsaltedbutter2tablespoonsunsaltedcashewnuts
1Heatafryingpanoveramediumheat,addthesemolinaandtoastitfor8–10minutesuntilitbeginstochangecolour.Keepstirring,topreventitburningonthebottomofthepan.Whenslightlygolden,removefromtheheatandtipintoabowl.
2Meanwhile,combinethesugar,250mlwater,saffron,cardamomseedsandraisinsinasaucepan.Bringtotheboil,thenremovefromtheheatandstirtodissolvethesugar.
3Heatthegheeinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheatandaddthecashewnuts.Whentheystarttoturngolden,tipinthetoastedsemolina.Fryfor5minutes,thenpourinthesugarandspicewater,standingbackasitwillsplutter.Stirrapidlytoavoidlumpsfromforming.
4Reducetheheatandcookforabout5minutes,untilthemixturecomes
awayfromthesidesofthepanasyoustir.Removefromtheheatandcoverthepan.Leavefor5–6minutesthenservewarm.
MungDalHalwa
[NORTHINDIANLENTILANDJAGGERYPUDDING]
ThisrichdesserttakestimeandefforttoprepareandisthereforeservedforspecialoccasionsoratnorthIndianandRajasthaniweddings.Itisthegheethatmakesitcreamyandaromaticsodon’tbetemptedtoreducetheamount.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plus2hourssoakingtimeCOOKING1hour
100gsplityellowlentils(mungdal),soakedincoldwaterfor2hours150gghee100gcastersugar10almonds,thinlysliced,todecorate10pistachios,thinlysliced,todecorate
1Drainthemungdal,placeinablenderandblitztomakeasmoothpurée,addingalittlewatertohelpturntheblades.2Heatthegheeinanon-stickpanoverahighheatandaddtheblendeddal.Reducetheheattolowandfry,stirringfrequently,for10–12minutes,untilitturnsgoldenbrown.Itwillturnfrombeingapastetolookinggrainy,andthearomawillchangefromrawtocooked.3Meanwhile,heat200mlwaterinasaucepan,addthesugarandboilthemixturefor4–5minutesuntilsugardissolves.4Putthedalmixtureinthesugarsyrupandcookoveralowheatfor40minutes,untiltheliquidhasevaporatedandthehalwaisglossybutfirm.5Transferfromthepantoaheatproofdishandservewarm,decoratedwiththeslicednuts.
Shrikhand
[CONDENSEDYOGURTANDCARDAMOMCREAM]
ThisgorgeousdessertisservedatMaharashtrianorGujaratifeastssuchasweddings,andwhenfamiliesandfriendsgathertocelebrateHindufestivalslikeDiwali.YoucanaddacoupleoftablespoonsoftinnedorfreshIndianmangopurée(wheninseason)tomakeavariationcalled‘aamrakhand’.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutes,plus8hoursdrainingtime
900gfull-fatyogurtabout6tablespoonscastersugarortotaste6greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscardedlargepinchofsaffron,soakedin1teaspoonwarmmilkfor10minutes2tablespoonspistachionuts,crushed
1Tietheyogurtinacleanpieceofmuslinandhangitupoverthekitchensinkorabucketforabout8hourstodrainoffthewhey.2Whentheyogurtissemi-dry,scoopitoutoftheclothandplaceinabowl.Beatwellwithawoodenspoonorwhisk,addingthecastersugaralittleatatime.3Whentheyogurtislightandfluffyintexture,stirinthecardamom,saffron(alongwiththemilkithasbeensoakingin)andhalfofthecrushednuts.Chillandservesprinkledwiththeremainingpistachionuts.
QubaniKaMeetha
[STEWEDDRIEDAPRICOTSWITHCARDAMOM]
ThisisbelievedtohavebeenthefavouriteoftheerstwhilerulerofHyderabad,theNizamOsmanAliKhan(1886–1967),whowasconsideredthewealthiestmanonEarthduringhistime.Hunzaapricotsaresmaller,denserandsweeterthanWesternonesandtheyhaveahardseedinthecentre.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING35minutes
200gIndianHunzaapricotsororganicdriedapricots80gcastersugar4tablespoonsdoublecream1tablespoonflakedalmonds,togarnish1tablespoonpistachios,crushed,togarnish4greencardamompods,seedscrushedand
husksdiscarded,togarnish
1Puttheapricotsandsugar,alongwithenoughwatertojustcoverthem,inaheavy-basedsaucepanoverahighheatandcookfor30minutesuntiltenderandpulpy.Iftheydryout,addasplashofwater.Removefromtheheatandstonethefruit(ifusingHunzaapricots),discardingtheseeds.2Puthalftheapricotsinablenderandblitzacoupleoftimesuntiltheyresembleajam.3Spoonsomeofthewholeapricotsandsomeofthejamintofourstemmedservingglasses.Leavetocool.Drizzlewiththecream,sprinklethealmonds,pistachiosandcardamomontopandservechilled.
ChaavalKiKheer
[SPICEDINDIANRICEPUDDING]
Kheerisagenerictermgiventopuddingsthatresemblecreams.Theycanbemadewithwheat,rice,nutsorfruitsuchasmango,jackfruitorbananaandalwayshaveamilkcomponent.RicekheerismadealloverIndia;thisisthenorthernversionwhichisoftenmadeatreligiousfeasts.Iuseanycheapbasmati(includingbrokenrice)forthisrecipeasitgivesabetter,stickiertexturetothepudding.
Serves4PREPARATION→30minutes,plus30minutessoakingtimeCOOKING1hour
150gcheapbasmatirice,soakedinplentyofcoldwaterforatleast30minutes500mlfull-fatmilk
castersugartotaste(atleast4tablespoonsormore)2tablespoonspistachionutsandalmonds,roughlychoppedafewstrandsofsaffron6greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded
1Drainthericeandplaceitinaheavy-basedpanwiththemilkandbringtotheboil,thenleavetosimmerfor1hour,oruntilmushy.Mashthericeroughlywithawhiskwhileit’sstillovertheheat.2Addthesugar,pistachios,almondsandsaffronandsprinkleinthecrushedcardamom.Stirforacoupleofminutesuntilthickandcreamy.3Servechilledorwarm.
ShahiTukde
[RICHBREADPUDDING]
ThisMughlaidessertisreservedforveryspecialeventssuchasEidorDiwaliasitissorich.Traditionally,the‘tukde’(bitsofbread)aredeep-friedinghee,butIhaveusedoilforalighterdish.The‘rabdi’ormilksaucethatispouredoverismadebycookingmilkforabout1houruntilitthickens.Tosavetime,Ihaveusedevaporatedmilkherethatisalreadyquitethick.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING25minutes,pluscoolingtime
vegetableoil,fordeep-frying3thickslicesofwhitebread,eachcutintobite-sizedsquares300mlevaporatedmilk120mlsweetenedcondensedmilk(ortotaste)agenerouspinchofsaffron3greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded2tablespoonscrushedpistachios
1Heatenoughoilinafryingpantobeabletosubmergeasinglelayerofthesquaresofbread,overahighheat,andfrythesquaresofbreadfor3–4minutes,flippingthemoveruntilgoldenallover.Removeanddrainonkitchenpaper.2Mixboththemilks,saffronandcrushedcardamominasaucepanandbringtotheboil.Simmerfor4–5minutesthenremovefromtheheatandleavetocoolfor30minutesorso.3Toserve,arrangethefriedbreadsquaresonaservingplatter.Pourthemilkoverandsprinklethepistachiosontop.Refrigeratefor1hour,sothatsomeofthesauceisabsorbedbythebread,producingatexturethatisvaryinglycrunchyandsoft.
SevianKheer
[FINEVERMICELLIPUDDING]
FinevermicelliisavailableinIndianshopsintoastedoruntoastedforms.Youcanuseeither–roastedvermicelliisbrownerandhasaslightlymoreintenseflavour.Bothneedtobefriedasinthisrecipe.Vermicellitakesjustmomentstocooksomakesureyouhaveallyouringredientsreadybeforeyoubegin.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING20minutes
2tablespoonsvegetableoilorghee2teaspoonsunsaltedcashewnuts2teaspoonsraisins2goodhandfulsofvermicelli,roughlycrushedbyhandintosmallbits400mlfull-fatmilk5tablespoonscastersugar,ortotasteafewstrandsofsaffron5greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded
1Heattheoilorgheeinasaucepanoverahighheat,addthecashewnutsandraisinsandfryfor1minuteuntilgolden.Drainandsetaside,andreturnthepantotheheat.2Addthecrushedvermicellitothepanandfryforacoupleofminutesuntilgolden,stirringandtakingcarenottoover-brownthem.3Addthemilkandbringtotheboil,scrapingdownthesidesofthepanandstirringcontinuously.Addsomewaterifthemixturethickenstoomuch.4Simmerforacoupleofminutesuntilthevermicelliissoft,thenaddthesugar.Stirwellandremovefromtheheat.Stirinthesaffronandthecardamom.5Thispuddingcanbeservedwarmorcold,garnishedwiththefriednutsandraisins.Ifyouarecookingitinadvanceanditthickensup,addafewtablespoonsofmilktoloosenit.Itshouldhaveathickpouringconsistency.
Rabdi
[CLOTTEDSWEETMILK]
ManynorthIndiancitiesandtownshavea‘milkshop’whereyoucanbuymilkandvariousproductssuchasyogurtandpaneermadefromit.Somesellthisdessertaswell,asitcantakealongtimetomakeathome.Boththehomemadeaswellasthecommerciallyavailableonesarerichanddelicious!
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING1hour20minutes
2litresfull-fatmilk3tablespoonscastersugar4greencardamompods,seedsfinelycrushedandhusksdiscardedapinchofsaffron1tablespooncrushedpistachios1teaspoonrosewater
1Putthemilkinaheavy-basedsaucepanandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheattomediumoruntilyouseeasteadybubblingsimmer.Stirfromtimetotime.2Asthemilkformsaskinontop,stirthisbackinandscrapethethickenedmilkfromtheedgesbackintothepan.Stirtomakesurethatthemilkisnotbrowningatthebottomofthepan.3Afterabout30minutesofsimmering,themilkwillhavebeguntoevaporateandclotintocreamy,softbits.Addthesugar,cardamom,saffronandpistachios.Continuecookingforafurther30minutes,oruntilthemixturelooksalmostlikecreamycottagecheese.4Removefromtheheat,stirintherosewaterandleavetocool.Servecold–itwillthickenfurtheroncooling.
MASTERCLASS
RASMALAI–CreamyCottageCheeseinSpicedMilk
‘Ras’meansjuiceorambrosiaand‘malai’iscreaminHindi.Thisdessertisdelicateandfragrant,withdumplingsoffreshcottagecheesesteepedinathick,sweetened,spicednuttymilk.Oncemade,thecheeseisoftenwashedtoremovetracesoflemonbutItendtoleaveitforextraflavour.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plus3hoursdrainingtimeCOOKING45minutes
YOUWILLNEED:900mlfull-fatmilkafewdropsoflemonjuice1x410gcanofevaporatedmilk120gcastersugar6greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscardedapinchofsaffron2teaspoonsslicedalmondsandpistachios
1Putalargesquareofmuslinoveraclean,tallpanorbucket.
2Putthemilkinapanandbringtotheboil,theaddthelemonjuiceandletthemilkcurdle.Removefromtheheatandscoopoutthecurdledsolidswithaslottedspoon.
Putthemintothemuslinhangingoverthepanorbucket,thentiethemuslinintoabundleandputawoodenspoonthroughtheknot.Hangthisoverthepanorbucket,leavingthewheytodrainoffforabout3hours.
3Meanwhile,inaseparatepan,heattheevaporatedmilkandmostofthesugaroverahighheat(reserving3tablespoonsofsugartomakethesugarsyruplateron).Addthecrushedcardamom,saffronandnuts.Leavetocoolthenrefrigerate.
4Whenthecheesehasdrained,bring500mlofwatertotheboilinalarge,shallowsaucepanandaddthereserved3tablespoonsofsugartoit.
5Removethecheesefromthemuslinandkneaditlightlyforabout1minute.Shapeittightlyintosmallballseachthesizeofacherry.Youshouldgetabout16balls.
6Reducetheheatundertheboilingwaterandgentlysliptheballsin.Cookthemfor10minutes,thenremovefromthepan.Draintheballswellandaddthemtothecold,spicedmilkfromStep2.Servecold.
BesanKeLaddoo
[GRAMFLOURSWEETS]
Afestivesweetthatcanbemadeandstoredforuptotwoweeksinanairtightcontainer,thisisoftenservedatteatimeoreatenasasnack.Whentheflourandgheeiscookeditwillbequiterunny.Itbecomesfirmasitcoolsandeasiertoshape.Youhavetodothiswhileitisstillwarmthoughbecauseifitcoolscompletely,itisverydifficulttoshapeitintoballs.
Makes12–16ballsPREPARATION→5minutesCOOKING30minutes,pluscoolingtime
200ggramflour3tablespoonsfinesemolina70mlmeltedghee100gcastersugar8almonds,sliced6greencardamompods,seedsfinelycrushedandhusksdiscardedafewraisins,todecorate
1Putthegramflourandsemolinainaheavy-basedsaucepananddry-toastoveramediumheatforabout10minutes,stirringcontinuously,untilanaromadevelopsandtheflourturnsslightlygolden.Makesuretokeeptheheatdownandkeepstirringsothatthegramflourtoastsrightthrough.2Pourinthegheeandcontinuefryingoveramediumheatforafurther20minutes,untilthemixturebecomesslightlyrunnyanddevelopsanuttyaroma.3Removefromtheheatandstirinthesugar,almondsandcardamom.Leavetocooluntiljustslightlywarm.4Takeasmallfistfuloftheflourmixtureandpressintoaballor‘laddoo’,thesizeofalargeplum–you’llhaveenoughmixturefor12–16balls.Pressaraisinintoeachonetodecorate.Coolcompletelytosettheladdoos,thenserve.
GajarKaHalwa
[INDIANCARROTPUDDING]
ThisisawinterdessertwhenIndiancarrots,usuallydarkerincolour,areinseason.Youcanuseanyvariety,though–theresultswillbejustasdelicious.ItisbesteatenwarmandisservedwithascoopofvanillaicecreamatIndianweddingsincentralandnorthernIndia,wherethesecarrotsgrow.
Serves4PREPARATION→20minutesCOOKING1hour
100gcastersugar2tablespoonsgheeorbutter300gcarrots,peeledorscraped,andgrated200mlfull-fatmilk4greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded1tablespoonunsaltedcashewnuts,roughlybroken,todecorate
1Placethesugarinaheavy-basedsaucepanwithdoublethevolumeofwaterandbringtotheboil.Stiruntilallthesugarhasdissolved,thenreducetheheatandcookthesyrupforafewminutes,removefromtheheatandsetaside.2Meanwhile,heatthegheeorbutterinaheavy-basedpanoverahighheat,addthecarrotsandfry,stirringoccasionally,for5–6minutes.3Pourinthesugarsyrupandthemilk,reducetheheatandcookfor1hour,untilthecarrotsaremushyandalltheliquidhasevaporated.4Removefromtheheat,mixinthecardamomandservewarm,decoratedwiththenuts.
PuranPoli
[SWEETLENTIL-ANDJAGGERY-STUFFEDFLATBREAD]
ThisdeliciousdessertfromMaharashtraandGujaratisalmostalwaysmadefortheHinduspringtimefestivalofHoli.Itisslightlytedioustopreparebuttheresultsareveryworthit!Eatitwarmdunkedinmeltedghee,butteroracupofwarmmilk.
Makes8PREPARATION→20minutes,plus1hoursoakingtimeCOOKING2hours
Forthestuffing200gsplitgramlentils(chanadal),soakedinwarmwaterfor1hourthenwashedand
drained200gjaggery,grated8greencardamompods,seedsfinelycrushedandhusksdiscarded1teaspoonground
nutmegFortheflatbread(makes8)250gstonegroundwholewheatflour(atta),plusextrafordusting150gplainflour2tablespoonsmeltedgheeapinchofsaltapinchofgroundturmeric200–220mlwarmwater,asneededvegetableoil,tocooktheflatbread
1Putthedalinapanwithdoublethevolumeofwaterandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor1hour,untilyoucaneasilysquashalentilbetweenyourfingers.2Meanwhile,combineboththefloursinalargebowlandmakeawellinthecentre.Addtheghee,saltandturmericandbegintomixwithyourfingers.Startpouringinthewarmwater,alittleatatime,untilyouhaveasoftbutfirmdough.Kneadthedoughuntilsmooththenplacebackinthebowlandleavetorest,coveredwithaclean,dampteatowel,whileyoumakethestuffing.3Drainthecookedchanadalandputitinaheavy-basedpanwiththejaggery.Cookoveramediumheatfor10–15minutesuntilthejaggeryhasmelted.Tipinthegroundcardamomandnutmeg.Stircontinuouslyfor8–10minutesuntilthe
mixturethickens,thenmashwithapotatomasheruntilyouhaveasmoothpaste(thispasteiscalled‘puran’).4Removethedoughfromthebowlandkneaditonaflouredsurface,thendivideitinto8equal-sizedballs.5Dustadoughballwithflourandrollitintoadiscor‘poli’about10cmindiameter.Placeasmallballofstuffinginthecentreandgathertheedgesofthedougharoundittosealthestuffinginandmakeaparcel.6Dusttheparcelwithflourandgentlyrollitoutintoapoliabout15cmindiameter.7Heatafryingpanoverahighheatanddotwithoil.Placethepoliinthehotpanandassoonasbubblesappearonthesurface,flipitover.Cookfor1–2minutesoneachsideuntiltheyareopaqueandbrownspotsappear.Liftontoaplateandkeepwarminfoiloracleanteatowel,whileyouroll,stuffandcooktheremainingpolis.
Phirni
[SETRICEPUDDING]
Phirniandkheerarebothricepuddings,thoughthefirstismadewithgroundriceandthelatterwithricegrains.IhaveeatenthisinnorthIndia,whereitistraditionallysetinsmallearthenwarecupscalled‘kulhad’or‘shikora’.Thesearebiodegradable,neverre-usedandimpartanearthysmelltothefoodtheycontain.TheyarealsousedtoserveteaatIndianrailwaystations.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plus1hoursoakingtimeCOOKING15minutes,plus1hoursettingtime
50gcheapbasmatirice,soakedinwaterfor1hourthendrained250mlfull-fatmilkapinchofsaffron2tablespoonscastersugar(ortotaste)8almonds,finelyslicedor2teaspoonsflakedalmonds,plusextraforgarnishingafewdropsofroseessenceor2teaspoonsrosewater
1Drythericeonacleanteatowelthenblitzitinacoffeegrinderorspicemilltomakeacoarsepowder.2Heatthemilkinasaucepanwiththesaffronandsugaroverahighheat.Whenitcomestotheboil,reducetheheattomediumandtipinthegroundrice,stirringconstantly.Addthealmonds.3Continuecooking,stirringconstantly,for10minutesuntilthemilkbeginstothicken.Bearinmindthatthepuddingwillsetwhenitiscompletelycold.4Removefromtheheatandstirintheroseessenceorrosewater.Pourintoindividualheatproofservingbowlsandchilltoset.Servecold,decoratedwithafewslicedalmonds.
Gujiya
[KHOYA-FILLEDPASTRIES]
ThisisanorthIndianrecipe,howevermanyregionalversionsexist.InGoa,thesepastriesarecalled‘neoreo’andarestuffedwithlocallygrowncoconutandsugar,whereasinMaharashtra,the‘karanji’hascoconutsweetenedwithlocallyproducedjaggery.InBihar,theyarecalled‘padaukiya’andaresometimesstuffedwithsweet,roastedsemolina.TheGujarativersionis‘ghugra’andhascoconutwithnutsandpoppyseeds.Theyalllooklikemoon-shapedsamosas.
Makes8PREPARATION→20minutesCOOKING1hour
250gplainflour,plusextrafordusting3tablespoonsmeltedgheeapinchofsalt2tablespoonschoppedalmondsandpistachios200gKhoya80gcastersugar3greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscardedvegetableoil,fordeep-frying
1Mixtheflour,gheeandsaltinalargebowl.Add125–150mlcoldwater,alittleatatime,untilyouhaveafirmdough.Kneadfor5–6minutestosoften,thenputitbackinthebowlandsetasidecoveredwithaclean,dampteatowel.2Tomakethefilling,heatatablespoonoftheoilinafryingpanoverahighheat,addthenutsandfryfor2–3minutesuntiltheysizzle.Stirinthekhoya,sugarandcardamomandcookfor8–10minutesuntilthemixtureleavesthesidesofthepanandformsaball.Removefromtheheat.3Dividethedoughinto8smallequal-sizedballsandrolleachoneoutonaflouredworksurfaceintoathindiscroughly10cmindiameter.Shakeoffanyexcessflour.4Putaspoonfulofthefillingdownthemiddleofonehalfofeachcircle,leavingtheedgesbare.Wettheedgesandpressdownfirmlytoformahalf-moonshape.
Trimedgeswithaserratedcutterorknife,makingsurethattheedgesaresealed.5Heatenoughoilinadeepfryingpantofrythepastriesinasinglelayer.Whennearlysmokinghot,reducetheheatanddeep-frythepastriesinbatchesfor3–4minutesuntilgolden,thendrainandsetaside.Servecoldorwarm.
KelyaMuluk
[BANANAFRITTERS]
ThissweetfromtheKonkanicommunity,asectofHinduBrahminsfromKarnataka,makesgooduseofoverripebananasthatnoonewantstoeat.Therecipeisquitesimilartothe‘unniappam’ofKeralabuthasaddedsemolinaandcanbemadewithoutthetraditional‘appamchatty’,adishwithdepressionstoholdthebatterandstopitfromspreadingwhenthefrittersarefrying.
Makesabout20frittersPREPARATION→15minutes,plus30minutesrestingtimeCOOKING20minutes
2veryripebananas,peeledandthicklysliced3tablespoonsgratedjaggeryorsoftbrownsugar2tablespoonsfreshlygratedcoconutordesiccatedcoconutsoakedinwaterfor15minutes
thendrainedapinchofsalt5greencardamompods,seedsfinelycrushedandhusksdiscarded150griceflour,sifted125gfinesemolinavegetableoil,fordeep-frying
1Mashthebananasinabowlandaddthejaggery,coconutandsalt.Mixwell,stirringuntilthejaggerymeltsandthemixturebecomesrunny.Tipinthecardamom.2Mixthericeflourandsemolinatogetherinasmallbowl.Addthis,alittleatatime,tothebananamixandbreakupanylumpsasyougo.Youshouldhaveasmooth,thickbatter,almosttheconsistencyofasoftdough.Coverandleavetorestatroomtemperaturefor30minutes.3Breakoffbitsofthemixtureandformintoabout20balls,eachthesizeofalargecherryorsmalllime.Placethemonatray.
4Heattheoilinadeepfryingpanoverahighheat,thentestit’shotenoughbyputtinginabitofthedough–itshouldrisetothetopinafewseconds.Carefullyaddthedoughballstothehotoilinbatches.Reducetheheattomediumandfryfor3–4minutes,untilgoldenbrownandthecentreofeachfritteriscooked.5Removewithaslottedspoonanddrainonkitchenpaper.Frytheremainingballsofbattersimilarly.Servewarm.
SaffronandPistachioIceCream
Icecreaminallforms–asplainvanillaortherich,spicedkulfi–arepopularinIndia.Mygrandfatherhadanice-creammachineathomeandhemadequiteanoccasionofit,hand-churningvariousflavoursforthefamilyonhotsummerdays.
Serves4PREPARATION→30minutes,plusovernightfreezingtime
1x397gcanofcondensedmilk600mldoublecream8greencardamompods,seedsfinelycrushedandhusksdiscardedapinchofsaffronstrands,
soakedin1tablespoonhotmilk3tablespoonscrushedpistachios
1Putthecondensedmilk,cream,cardamomandsaffronmilkalongwiththestrandsintoalargebowl.Whiskforabout10minutesuntilyougetathickdroppingconsistency.2Pourthemixtureintoaliddedplastictubandfreezefor1hour30minutes.3Removethetubfromthefreezer,decantbackintothebowlandfoldinthecrushedpistachios.Putbackintothetubandfreezeovernight.
Zarda
[SWEETRICEWITHNUTS]
Theword‘zard’meansyellowinPersian,suggestingthatthisdishwaspopularisedinnorthIndiabytheMughals,whoruledtherefrom1526to1858.NorthIndiancultureisinfluencedbytheMughalsintermsoflanguage,architecture,foodanddress.Urdu,alanguagewithPersianroots,wasspokenbyelitemembersoftheMughalEmpireandithasbecomeapartofthenativeHindispokeninnorthIndia.TheAin-i-Akbari,EmperorAkbar’schronicles,explaintherecipefor‘zardbirinj’madewithrice,sugarcandy,nuts,spicessuchassaffronandcinnamonalongwithfreshginger.
Serves4PREPARATION→20minutesCOOKING40minutes
200gbasmatirice,washedanddrained2largepinchesofsaffron80ggheeorunsaltedbutter1tablespoonpistachios,chopped1tablespoonalmonds,chopped2tablespoonsfreshordriedcoconutshavings150gcastersugar5greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded
1Putthericeinaheavy-basedsaucepanwithdoublethevolumeofwaterandthesaffron.Bringtotheboil,thenreducetheheattolow,coverandsimmerfor10minutes.Removefromtheheatandleavecoveredfor5minutes.2Heatthegheeorbutterinafryingpanoverahighheat,addthenutsandcoconutandfryfor3–4minutes.Whentheybegintodarken,foldinthecookedrice.3Tipinthesugarandcardamomandmixgently.Covertightlyandcookfor5minutesoveralowheat.4Removefromtheheat,removethelidandservewarm.
KadaParshad
[WHOLEWHEATPUDDING]
EverySikhgurudwara(temple)servesthissweettodevotees.Prayersarechantedasitisbeingprepared,whichpeoplesaymakesittasteevenmoredelicious!Itissimpletomakeandthesoft,creamytexturemeltsinthemouth.
Serves4PREPARATION→5minutesCOOKING15minutes
100gghee100gstonegroundwholewheatflour(atta)100gcastersugar
1Heatthegheeinaheavy-basedfryingpanoveramediumheatthenaddtheflour.Stirconstantlyforabout10minutesuntiltheflourturnsgoldenbrown.2Meanwhile,combinethesugarand250mlwaterinasaucepanandbringtotheboil.Removefromtheheatandstirtodissolvethesugar.3Whentheflouriswellbrownedandaromatic,reducetheheattolowandpourinhalfthesugarwater.Stircontinuouslytobreakupanylumpsandtocooktheflourevenly.Pourintheremainingwater.4Inafewminutes,thewaterwillevaporateandthepuddingwillcomeawayfromthesidesofthepan.Removefromtheheatandservewarm.
Aamras
[MANGOSMOOTHIE]
ThemonthofMay,mangoseasoninIndia,isalsoanauspiciousmonthforHinduweddingswhenaamrasisservedwithpoorisatMaharashtrianandGujaratifeasts.Itisimportanttousesweet,non-fibrousIndianmangoessuchasAlfonsoorKesarforthebestflavourandconsistency.
Serves4PREPARATION→20minutes
4ripemangoes,peeled,stoned,slicedandchopped2–3teaspoonscastersugar,ifrequired4greencardamompods,seedsfinelycrushedandhusksdiscarded
1Blitzthechoppedmangoestoasmoothpuréeinablender,addingthetiniestamountofwatertohelpturntheblades.Youwanttomakeathickpuréeratherthanamangodrink.2Tastethepuréeandaddsugarifnecessary.Stirinthecardamomandservechilled.
MangoSeekarane
[MANGOESINCOCONUTMILK]
ThiseasyrecipefromKarnatakawasachildhoodfavouriteofminebecauseitwassoseasonal.Madewithinminutes,itisproofthatthefragranceandsweetnessofIndianmangoesneedsminimumfussandbothertoshine.Thisisalsoknownas‘rasayana’or‘hashaley’.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,pluschillingtime
1x400mlcanofcoconutmilk4greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded2tablespoonsgratedjaggeryorsoftdarkbrownsugar2ripeIndianmangoes(AlphonsoorKesar),peeledanddiced
1Combinethecoconutmilkandcrushedcardamom.Stirinthejaggeryorsugaruntildissolved.2Spoonafewtablespoonsofthecoconutmilkintoabowlandroughlymash3–4cubesofmangointoit.Pouritbackintotheremainingcoconutmilk,stirintheremainingcubedmangoandchillforanhourorso.Servechilled.
MasalaChaiKulfi
[SPICEDTEAICECREAM]
Kulfiisdenserthanpopularicecreamasitisnotaeratedorwhipped.Itistraditionallymadebyboilingfull-fatmilkuntilithasreducedbytwothirdsbutthisisaneasy,time-savingversion.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes,plus2–3hoursfreezingtimeCOOKING10minutes
1x410gcanofevaporatedmilk½x397gcanofcondensedmilk2.5cmpieceoffreshrootginger,gratedtoextractjuiceandthefibrouspartdiscarded3teabagsor2teaspoonsstrongtealeaves(IuseEnglishBreakfasttea)
1Combinealltheingredientsinaheavy-basedsaucepanoveramediumheat.Cookuntilthemilkisalmostboiling,thenremovefromtheheatandpassthroughasieveintoaheatproofjug.Pourintosmallmouldsoraplastictub.Iusesmallsiliconemoulds4cmindiameterastheycanbeeasilyturnedinsideouttounmoldthekulfi.Traditionalkulfimouldsareconical.2Freezefor2–3hoursuntilset.
MangoKulfi
IonlymakethisduringtheIndianmangoseasoninMaybecauseitworksbestwiththefragrantAlphonsoorKesarvarieties.Youcanuseotherseasonalfruitsuchasstrawberries,raspberriesorblueberries.
Serves4PREPARATION→5minutes,plus2hoursfreezingtimeCOOKING10minutes
1x410gcanofevaporatedmilk100gcastersugar100gIndianmangopulp(seeAamras)
1Heattheevaporatedmilkandsugarinasaucepanoverahighheatfor10minutes,untilthesugardissolves.2Removefromtheheatandleavetocool,thenstirinthemangopulp.Putintoan800mlplastictubandfreezeforacoupleofhours.
MASTERCLASS
GULABJAMUN–MilkDumplingsinRose-flavouredSyrup
GulabisroseinHindiandjamunareIndianberries.Thesedumplingsarefriedtoresemblejamunandsoakedinrosesyrup.Therearemanyrecipesforthis:somemore‘instant’recipesusemilkpowder,butIhavemadetheseusingkhoya(milkthatiscookeddowntoitssolidform,seehere),asIthinkittastesbetter.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING30minutes,plus1hoursoakingtime
YOUWILLNEED:250gKhoya2tablespoonsplainflour½teaspoonbicarbonateofsodavegetableoil,fordeep-fryingForthesyrup200gcastersugar2teaspoonsrosewateror1teaspoonroseextract1tablespooncrushedpistachios
1Kneadthekhoyalightlyuntilitissmoothandstartstobecomeoilywiththeheatofyourhands.Addtheflourandbicarbonateofsodaandkneadagaintomakeasoftdough.
2Shapethedoughinto16cherry-sizedballsthataresmoothandhavenocracks(orelsetheywillabsorbtoomuchoil).Coverwithacleanteatowel.
3Combinethesugarand200mlwaterinaheavy-basedsaucepanandcookoverahighheatfor5–6minutesuntilalmostboiling,stirringtodissolvethesugar.
4Reducetheheatandcontinuecookingfor10–15minutesuntilitformsasinglestringconsistency.Testthisbyputtingadroponacoldplate,waitingforittocoolandthendippingyourindexfingerintoit.Thesyrupshouldformasinglestringwhenyourthumbandfingerpullapartslowly.Alternatively,ifyouhaveasugarthermometer,placeitinthesyrup:thethermometershouldread108–118ºC.
5Removethesyrupfromtheheat.Stirintherosewater(orextract)andpistachios.
6Heatenoughoiltofrythedoughballsinafryingpanoverahighheatandtestitbyputtinginabitofthedough.Itshouldrisetothetopinafewseconds.Reducetheheattomediumandcarefullylowerthedoughballsintotheoilinbatches.Fryfor5–6minutesuntilevenlygoldenbrownallover.
7Removethemwithaslottedspoonandtransferthemdirectlyintothewarmsugarsyrup.
8Leavethejamunstosoakupthesyrupforatleast1hour.Servewarm–theyshouldbewarmfromthesyrup.Ifmakinginadvance,theycanbegentlyheatedfor7–8minutesinthesyrup.
KajuBurfie
[CASHEWANDMILKFUDGE]
Burfies,whicharelikeadensefudge,aremadefromawiderangeofingredientsfromchocolatetofigs.Theycanbepickedupwithone’sfingersandthetexturevariesfrombeingsoftandmoisttoquitedenseanddry.Astheyarequitesweet,theykeepwellfor3–4daysatroomtemperatureandforuptoaweekinthefridge.Theyareoftendecoratedwithediblesilverorgoldfoilcalled‘varq’,whichcanbeboughtfromsomeIndianshops.
Makes12squaresPREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING30minutes,plus2–3hourssettingtime
1x400gcanofcondensedmilk30gunsaltedbutter,plus1teaspoonforgreasingthedish4tablespoonsunsaltedcashewnuts,finelycrushed4greencardamompods,seedsfinelycrushedandhusksdiscardedediblesilverfoil,todecorate(optional)
1Putthecondensedmilkinaheavy-basedsaucepanoveralowheatandcookfor10–15minutes,stirringconstantly,untilthemixturethickensandcomesawayfromthesidesofthepan.Stirinthebutter,cashewnutsandcardamom,thenremovefromtheheat.Youshouldbeabletomovethemixtureeasilywiththebackofawoodenspoon.2Greaseaflatdishwiththeextrabutter.Pourtheburfiemixtureinandsmooththesurfacewithaspatula.3Leavetocoolandsetfor2–3hours,thencutintoabouttwelve2.5cmsquaresordiamondsanddecoratewithmorecrushednutsandediblesilverfoil(ifusing).
ParsiSev
[SWEETVERMICELLIPUDDING]
IhaveeatenthisfragrantdessertatmyParsifriends’homesonfestivedays,suchasJamshedNavrozorParsiNewYear’sDay,withsugar-sweetenedyogurtor‘mithoodahi’.IwastoldthatthesymbolicsignificanceofthedishwasattheheartofParsilife.Thefinenessofthevermicelliindicatedthehardworkthathadgoneintomakingit.Thesugarencouragedpeopletobesweetnaturedandtheyogurtservedwithitremindedusoftheanimalkingdomthatneedstobecherished.TheParsisandMaharashtriansusecharolinutstogarnishtheirdesserts.Thisisasmallalmond-flavoured,flatnutthesizeofalentil.
Serves4PREPARATION→15minutesCOOKING20minutes
80gcastersugar2tablespoonsghee2tablespoonsraisins2tablespoonsflakedalmonds1tablespooncharolinutsorflakedalmonds100gfinevermicelli,crushedbyhandintoshort
lengths½teaspoongroundnutmeg½teaspoonvanillaorroseextractyogurtsweetenedwithsugar,toserve(optional)
1Combinethesugarand80mlwaterinasaucepanoverahighheatandbringtotheboil.Removefromtheheat,stirtodissolvethesugarandsetaside.2Heatthegheeinafryingpanoverahighheat,addtheraisins,almondsandthecharolinutsandfryfor1minuteuntilgolden.Removewithaslottedspoonandsetaside.3Inthesameghee,frythevermicellifor3–4minutesuntilgolden,withoutallowingittoturntoobrown.4Pourinthesugarwater,alittleatatime,untilthevermicellisoftenscompletelybutdoesnotturntoamush.Removefromtheheatandsprinkleinthenutmegandvanillaorroseextract.Stirgentlywithafork,separatingthestrandsof
vermicelli.5Servewarm,garnishedwiththefriedraisins,almondsandcharolinutsandaspoonfulofyogurtsweetenedwithsugarontheside,ifdesired.
MungDalPayasam
[SOUTHINDIANLENTILANDMILKPUDDING]
ThisisatraditionalpuddingfromsouthIndia,whichuseslentilsincountlesswaystomakedals,toaddtexturetovegetabledishesandevenindesserts.Inahotclimate,lentilsprovideproteininamealthatwouldbecometooheavyifithadmeatorpoultry.Also,therearealargenumberofvegetariansinsouthIndiaandlentilsformanessentialpartoftheirdiet.Lentil-baseddessertsareusuallymilkyandfragrantwithcardamom.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING45minutes
3tablespoonsbrokenbasmatiriceoranystickyrice4tablespoonssplityellowlentils(mungdal),washedanddrained4tablespoonsunsaltedcashewnuts5–6greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded200mlcoconutmilk2tablespoonsgratedjaggeryorsoftdarkbrownsugar
1Soakthericeinwaterwhileyoupreparetheremainingingredients.2Heataheavysaucepanoverahighheat,addthelentilsanddry-toastfor3–4minutesuntiltheystarttodarken.3Pourin150mlwaterandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor25minutesuntilthelentilsaresoft,thenaddthecashewnutstothepan.4Meanwhile,drainthericeandblitzitinablenderwithafewtablespoonsofwateruntilyouhaveagrittypaste.5Addthisricepastetothecookedlentilsthenaddthecardamomandcoconutmilk.Addthejaggeryorsugar.Bringtotheboilthencookoveramediumheatfor12–15minutes.6Thefinaldishshouldbecreamyandofpouringconsistency,soyoumayneedtoaddabitofwaterifitistoothick.Servewarm.
NamkeenLassiAamKiLassiKashayaMasalaChaiAamKaPannaShikanjviNarialKaSharbatHaldiKiChaiRasam
LIGHTLYSPICEDFRUITORVEGETABLEJUICESAREAVAILABLEASSTREETFOODORSERVEDASWELCOMEDRINKSINMANYINDIANHOMES,ESPECIALLYDURINGTHE
BLAZINGHOTSUMMERMONTHS.
PeopleatmyclassesoftenaskmewhatIndiansdrinkwiththeirmeal.Theanswerissimple–water.InanIndianhome,wateristhepreferredbeverageasitinterferesneitherwiththetasteofthefoodnoritsdigestion,whendrunkinmoderation.Ayurvedicnutritionadvisesusnottodrinktoomuchwaterthroughamealasitdilutesdigestivejuicesanddelayseffectivedigestion.
Thetropical,seasonalheatovermostofIndiameansthatdrinksofvariouskindsarepopularbuttheseareoftendrunkthroughthedayratherthanwithameal.Fruitjuicessuchasorange,lime,sugarcaneorpineapplearesoldat‘juicecentres’andincoastaltowns;freshcoconutwateristhepreferredthirstquencher.Ifyougotosomeone’shome,youmaybeoffereda‘sharbat’–asweetdrinkwithsugar,essenceandcolourthatisdilutedwithwater.Popularflavoursarerose,‘khus’orvetiverandsandalwood.Freshlemonade,sweetened,spicedandicedispopular.
Teaandcoffeearedrunkalloverthecountry.IndianteaisstewedratherthanbrewedandisthickerandstrongerthantheteaservedinEurope.Coffeecomesfromthesouthwhereitisservedfilteredandstrong,insmallsteelcups.
DrinksarealsoapartoftheIndianhealingsystem.Igrewupdrinkingmanykindsof‘coolers’inthescorchingsummers,orspiced,herbalteaswhenIfeltpoorly.Mygrandmotheralwaysmademeawarmteawithflaxseedstocounteractthediscomfortofanallergiccold.Thismayhaveworkedbecauseofthehighseleniumcontentintheseedswhichissaidtoreducesymptoms.IlovedtheturmericmilkthatIwasgivenasachildeverytimeIhadasorethroat.Turmericisbelievedtobeanti-inflammatoryandantiseptic.Thehealingantioxidantcurcuminwhichispresentisconsideredtobecomemoreavailablewhencombinedwithgoodfatssuchasthoseinmilkandghee.
AlcoholisnotapartofdailylifeinIndia.Inthecitiesandtowns,peoplemaythrowcocktailpartieswherewhisky,vodka,rumandbeerarealsoservedbutthesedonotoftenaccompanythemealthatfollows.Beerisseenasadaytimedrink,tobehadwithSundaylunch.WineisgrowinginpopularityandIndia
producessomeverygoodwines,butthesearestillmainlyonlydrunkinlargecitiesandatrestaurants.Womenoftendonotdrinksoit’snotuncommonforthemtobeoffereda‘softdrink’ratherthanaglassofwineorwhisky.Youngpeopleinlargecitiesdrinkalcoholinbarsandrestaurantsbutinmanyfamilies,thisisconsideredtaboo.Intraditionalfamilies,drinkingwithyoureldersisconsideredamarkofdisrespect.
Religiousrulesalsodictatewhethersomeonewilldrinkalcoholornot.Asageneralrule,theMuslimsdonotandneitherdotheJains,BuddhistsorinitiatedSikhs.StrictHindusalsorefrainfromalcoholforthesakeofpleasure,althoughAyurvedaprescribeswinesasmedicineintheformoffermentedjuicescalled‘asavas’and‘arishtas’.
Regionalalcoholicdrinksaremadeusinglocalingredients.‘Feni’ismadeinGoafromcoconut,ricebeercalled‘Chaang’or‘Kosna’isdrunkinnorth-easternstates,andmahuaflowersaremadeintoaliquorinthetribalregionsofChhattisgarhstate.Toddy,madefrompalmtrees,ispopularinKeralawhichhaswell-known‘toddyshops’.
NamkeenLassi
[SALTEDLASSI]
PopularduringnorthIndiansummers,thisdrinkisservedinlargejugsthroughouttheday.Iusefull-fatorGreekyogurtforthis,tomakeitthickandcreamy,butyoucanuselow-fatyogurtifyouwish.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutes
1teaspooncuminseeds300mlcoldwater300gnaturalfull-fatorGreekyogurtafewturnsofapeppermillsalt
1Heatafryingpanoverahighheat,addthecuminseedsanddry-toastuntiltheybegintodarkenanddevelopanaroma.Removefromtheheatandcrushtoapowderinapestleandmortar.2Combinealltheingredients,seasonwithsalt,whiskwellandservechilled.
AamKiLassi
[MANGOLASSI]
ThisisaseasonaldrinkbecauseyouneedtheacertaintypeofIndianmangoessuchasAlphonsoorKesartoachievetherightflavour.Thesearesweet,smoothandveryfragrant.Outofseason,youcanusesweetenedpuréefromacan.
Serves5PREPARATION→15minutes
2ripeIndianmangoes(suchasAlphonsoorKesar),peeled,stonedandchoppedor150gmangopuréefromacan300gnaturalyogurt
100mlcoldwater3greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscardedcastersugar,totaste(optional)
1Blitzthechoppedmangoinablendertomakeasmoothpurée.Tiptheyogurtintotheblenderandpourinthewater.Blitzagainuntilsmooth.2Mixinthecardamomandsugar,ifusing,andservechilled.
MASTERCLASS
SOLKADI–TangyCoconutMilk
Kokumisatangy,purplefruitofthemangosteenfamilythatgrowsmainlyinGujarat,MaharashtraandGoa(seehere).ThisMaharashtriandrinkisservedcoldandisofteneatenmixedwithriceandapieceofspicyfriedfish,orservedonitsown.Kokumisknownforitscoolingproperties;intheswelteringheatofthesummer,itismadeintoacordialtobedilutedwithwater,called‘amrutkokum’.Theactiveingredientgarcinol,whichhasanti-inflammatoryproperties,helpstopreventsunstrokeandcoolthedigestivesystem.
Serves4PREPARATION→40minutes
YOUWILLNEED:400mlcoconutmilk8kokumpetals,washedandsoakedin2tablespoonsofwarmwaterfor10minutes
pinchofcastersugar2garliccloves,crushed2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshcorianderleavessalt
1Addalltheingredientstothecoconutmilk,mixwellandleavetostandfor20minutes.Strain.
2Squeezethejuicefromthekokumintothedrinkanddiscardthepetalswhenthedrinkispinkandfairlysour.Ifitisnot,leavethekokuminforlonger.Serveatroomtemperature.
Kashaya
[HERBALTEA]
WheneverIhadacold,coughoratemperatureasachild,mygrandmotherwouldmakemethislovelytea.Itiscalled‘kadha’inmanyIndianlanguagesandhasitsrootsinAyurvedichealing.Thereareseveralversionsofthisdrink,dependingonpersonalpreferenceandthemalady.Fennelisusedfordigestiveupsets,cardamomfordigestion,gingerhelpswithcongestion,andcloves,whichareheating,openupthechannels(called‘srotas’inAyurveda:theseincludethelymphaticanddigestivesystems).Evenwithoutanillness,itmakesawonderfulwinterwarmer.
Serves4PREPARATION→2minutesCOOKING10minutes
1teaspooncuminseeds3blackpeppercorns3greencardamompods1cinnamonstick3clovesasmallknoboffreshrootgingerhoney,totaste
1Putthecuminseeds,peppercorns,cardamom,cinnamon,clovesandgingerinamortarandcrushroughlywithapestletobruise.2Combinethecontentsofthemortarwith500mlwaterinasaucepanandbringtotheboil.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor5–6minutes.3Strainandaddhoneytotaste.Servehot.
MasalaChai
[SPICEDINDIANTEA]
Therearesomanydifferentrecipesforthis,dependingonpersonalpreference–youcanalsousespicessuchascinnamon,pepperandcloves.Youmustboileverythingtogethertoextractalltheflavourfromtheingredients.
Serves4PREPARATION→5minutesCOOKING15minutes
1teaspoonfennelseeds1.25cmpieceoffreshrootginger3greencardamompods,bruised250mlboilinghotwater250mlfull-fatorsemi-skimmedmilk(dependingonpreference)3teabagsor2teaspoons
strongloose-leafteacastersugar,totaste(optional)
1Crushthefennelseeds,gingerandcardamominamortarwithapestle.Putthespicesinaheavy-basedpanandpourinthewaterandmilk.Bringtotheboil,thenaddtheteabagsortea.2Reducetheheatandsimmerfor5minutes,untilacolourdevelops.3Removefromtheheat,strainthroughafinesieveintoaheatproofjuganddiscardthespicesandteabags.Servehot,sweetenedwithsugarifdesired.
AamKaPanna
[GREENMANGOCORDIAL]
Duringthehotsummermonthswhenmangoesareinseason,thisrefreshingdrinkismadeinhomesalloverthecountry.Itisaconcentratethatcanbestoredinthefridgeforuptoafortnightandtowhichwaterisaddedtodiluteit.Youcanuseotherfruitaswell–plumsandpineapplesworkreallywell.
Serves4PREPARATION→10minutesCOOKING30minutes
1large,rawgreenmango,peeledandroughlychopped100gcastersugarormoretotaste(thecordialshouldbequitesweetasitwillbediluted
lateron)apinchofsaltafewstrandsofsaffronacoupleofturnsofthepeppermill3greencardamompods,seedscrushedandhusksdiscarded
1Placethemangoinapanwith300mlwaterandbringtotheboil.Ialwaysboilthemangostoneaswell,togetitsflavourintothedrink.Reducetheheatandsimmerfor15minutesuntilthemangoispulpy.2Removefromtheheat,leavetocoolanddiscardthestone.Transfertoablenderandblitzuntilsmooth.Ifthepulpisstringy,strainitthroughafinesieve.3Addtheremainingingredientsandreturntotheheat.Cookoverahighheatforafewminutesuntilthesugarhasdissolvedcompletely.4Coolandstoreinthefridge.Tomakeaglassful,add3–4tablespoonsofthisconcentrateandtopwithchilledwater.
Shikanjvi
[SUMMERLEMONADE]
Alsoknownas‘nimbupani’or‘shikanji’,thisismadewithwaterorsparklingsoda.Youcanflavouritwithcoolingingredientssuchasrosewaterorsaffron.
Serves4PREPARATION→5minutes
juiceof2lemonsormoreforatangytastesalt,totastecastersugar,totaste2.5cmpieceoffreshrootginger,peeledandgratedapinchoffreshlygroundblackpepper
1Mixthelemonjuicewithsaltandsugartotaste,untilwellblended.2Squeezethegingerjuiceoutfromthegratedgingerandaddthistothemix.3Addthepepperand600mlcoldwaterandservechilled.
NarialKaSharbat
[ROSE-FLAVOUREDCOCONUTWATER]
ManyyearsagoinMumbai,beforecoconutwaterwaswidelyavailableinpacks,wewouldbuytendercoconutsfromthe‘nariyalwallah’andcrackthemopenathome.Wewouldchillthewaterwithcoolingflavourssuchasrosewateror‘khus’,knowninotherpartsoftheworldasvetiver.KhusisafragrantgrassthatgrowsinnorthernandwesternIndia.Itiscommerciallymadeintoabrightgreensyrupwithstrongwoodyovertonesthatisdilutedbeforebeingdrunktobeatthescorchingsummerheat.
Serves4PREPARATION→5minutes
1litrecoconutwater2teaspoonsrosewater
1Combinetheingredientsandservechilled.
HaldiKiChai
[TURMERICTEA]
Ihavebeendrinkingthistea,onceaday,forawhilenowandhaveexperienceditsgoodeffects,suchasahigherresistancetocoldsandcoughsandincreasedimmunitytoseasonalmaladiessuchastheflu.Isuggestittoeveryonethatattendsmyclassesandoftendemonstratehowiteasyitistomake!Ithasnotasteandtheturmericdoesnotmakeitspicy.Youcanaddhoneyorsugartosweetenit,ifyouprefer.
Serves4PREPARATION→5minutes
apinchofgroundturmericsugarorhoney(optional)
1Boil800mlwaterinakettle.2Putapinchofturmericin4mugsandpourtheboilingwateroverthetop.Theturmericwillchangeincolourandturnslightlyorange.Drinkhot.Youcansweetenitwithsugarorhoneyifyouwish.
Rasam
[LENTILSOUPWITHTAMARIND]
RasamiseatenwithriceinsouthIndiabutitssoupyconsistencyalsomakesitawarmingdrink.Youcanmakeitwhencookingdalbyaddingextrawaterthatisdrainedofftouseasstockinthisrecipe.
Serves4PREPARATION→plus15minutessoakingCOOKING50minutes
4tablespoonstoordal,soakedinwateratroomtemperaturefor15minutes,thendrained1teaspoongratedjaggeryorsoftlightbrownsugar2tablespoonsvegetableoil½teaspoonblackmustardseeds½teaspooncuminseedslargepinchofasafoetida10freshcurryleaves1teaspoontamarindpulporshop-boughttamarindpaste1teaspoonsambharpowder1teaspoongroundturmericsalt2tablespoonschoppedfreshcorianderleaves,toserve
1Placethetoordalinapanwith600mlwater,bringtotheboilthenreducetheheatandsimmerfor40minutesuntilmushy,skimmingthescumoffthesurfacefromtimetotime.Whenthelentilsarecooked,strainthemthroughasieveoveraheatproofbowl,reservingtheliquidstock(discardthelentils).Addthejaggeryorsugartothestockandseasonitwithsalt,stirringuntiltheydissolve.2Heattheoilinafryingpanoverahighheatandaddthemustardseeds.Whentheybegintocrackle,addthecumin,asafoetidaandcurryleaves(standingbackfromthepanastheleaveswillsplutter!).Fryforafewsecondsthenaddthetamarindandcookfor3–4minutesuntilitbecomesthickandbubbly.Stirinthegroundspices.
3Pourthestockintothetamarindmixture,bringtotheboilandremovefromtheheat.Servehotwithfreshcoriander.
Aaabgosht
aamkachhunda
aamkapanna
aamras
aamkilassi
aamti
adai
ajowan(ajwain)
mixedvegetableswithajowanandcoconut
alcohol1,2,3
aloobonda
aloogobi
alookeparonthe
aloomethi
alooposto
alootikki
amaranthleaves
amchoor1,2
ananasauranarkaraita
andekibhurji
AndhraPradesh
Andhramuttonfry
Andhra-stylecurrywithpoppyseeds
Andhra-styleprawnfry
appam
apples:greenapplechutney
apricots:steweddriedapricotswithcardamom
asafoetida1,2,3,4,5
lentilswithasafoetida
Maharashtrianlentilswithasafoetida
Assamesesweetandsourtomatochutney
atta
aubergines1,2,3
auberginesinasesameandpeanutsauce
fire-roastedauberginewithspices
friedspicedaubergine
roastedauberginewithyogurt
sourandhotauberginechutney
spicedauberginerice
stuffedbabyaubergines
avial
Ayurveda1,2
B
bagarebaingan
baghar
baidamasala
baidarashida
baidekakheema
bainganbharta
bajraflour
bajrekibhakri
bambooshoots
chilliporkwithbambooshoots
bananaflowers1,2
bananas:bananafritters
sweetandspicybananasalad
banarasialoo
barleyflour
batatyatalasani
battikhoya
beans1,2,3,4
beansalad
beansporiyal
beef1,2,3,4,5
spicybeefwithonions
beer1,2
beetroot:beetrootandyogurtraita
beetrootraitha
Bengalichickencurry
Bengalicholardal
Bengalieggcurry
Bengalifishinyogurt
Bengaligreenmangopickle
Bengalilambcurry
Bengaliprawncurry
Bengaliprawnsinmustardandpoppyseedsauce
Bengalitomatoraita
besanflour
besankeladdoo
besankiroti
besannikadhi
bhajamugerdal
bhajia,onion
bharelaringannushak
bhatura
bheedapareeda
bhindikisubzi
bhindikurkure
bhujane
bhuna
bhunagosht
bhunalobia
bilahirtok
biryani:lambbiryaniwithsouthernspices
NorthIndianchickenbiryani
slow-cookedbiryani
biscuits:puris
black-eyedbeans
stir-friedblackbeans
BombayFrankie
boondiraita
bootordali
boti
bread1,2,3,4,5
bhatura
chappatis1,2,3
cornbread
crispSindhi-stylebread
flatbreads1,2
friedspinachbread
lambmince-stuffedbread
makingadough
naanbread1,2,3
parathas1,2,3
pearlmilletbread
pooris1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17
richbreadpudding
rotis1,2,3,4
spicedmultigrainbread
breadfruit1,2
breakfast
breakfastmeatcurry
brinjals
brinjalchutney
seealsoaubergines
buffalo
bulgarwheat
butter1,2
butterychickencurry
ghee1,2,3,4,5
butterbeans
C
cabbage:cabbagewithcoconut
Gujarati-stylecabbageandpeasstir-fry
camphor
cardamom1,2
condensedyogurtandcardamomcream
steweddriedapricotswithcardamom
carrots
carrot,cauliflowerandturnippickle
Indiancarrotpudding
softricewithyogurt,cucumber,carrotandspices
warmcarrotsalad
cashewnuts1,2
cashewandmilkfudge
cashewnutchutney
cauliflower:carrot,cauliflowerandturnippickle
cauliflowerwithcoconutandpepper
grilledspicedcauliflowersteaks
NorthIndianspicedpotatowithcauliflower
chaatmasala
chaavalkikheer
chanadal
bottlegourdwithchanadal
chanadalwithonionandspices
chanadalwithraisins
chanyachiamti
chapatti1,2,3
chawlirajmakasalaad
cheenikayiraitha
chettinadmuttonbiryani
chicken1,2,3,4,5
Bengalichickencurry
butterychickencurry
chickenandspinachcurry
chickencafreal
chickenchettinad
chickencurrywithcreamandspices
chickencurrywithfenugreek
chickencurrywithpeppers
chickeninpicklingspices1,2
chickenmeatballsinatomatocurry
chickensamosas
chickentikka
creamychickencurry
creamychickentikka
cubedspicedchicken
Goancoconutchickencurry
Goangreenchicken
Keralachickenstew
Maduraichickencurry
Maharashtrianwhitechickencurry
masalachickenwings
NorthIndianchickenbiryani
Parsi-stylefriedchicken
preparingandcooking
Sindhi-stylechickencurry
spicychickenandcoconutcurry
spicySouthIndianchickencurry
tandoori-stylechicken
chickpeas1,2
coastalblackchickpeacurry
curriedchickpeas
chiknakhoya
children,cookingfor
chillies1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11
chilliporkwithbambooshoots
fishstuffedwithchilliandspice
potatobatonswithchilliandgarlic
Rajasthanimeatandchillicurry
redchillifish
chingrimacchermalaikari
cholay
chownk
chutney1,2,3,4
Assamesesweetandsourtomatochutney
cashewnutchutney
corianderandpeanutchutney
corianderchutney
dateandcorianderchutney
drycoconutandgarlicfireballchutney
greenapplechutney
mangoandcoconutchutney
mintandcorianderchutney
sevpuris
Sindhipomegranatechutney
sourandhotauberginechutney
spicycorianderpowderchutney
sweettamarindchutney
tomatoandcoconutchutney
whitecoconutchutney
cinnamon1,2,3,4
cloves1,2,3
coconut1,2,3,4
breakingandgrating
cabbagewithcoconut
cauliflowerwithcoconutandpepper
coconutrice
crabcurrywithroastedcoconut
crabstuffedwithmustardandcoconut
cucumberandcoconutraita
desiccatedcoconut
drycoconutandgarlicfireballchutney
Goancoconutchickencurry
greenbeanswithcoconut
mangoandcoconutchutney
mixedvegetablecurrywithcoconut
mixedvegetablesincoconutandyogurt
mixedvegetableswithajowanandcoconut
rice,coconutandeggpancakes
savourycoconutpancakes
spicychickenandcoconutcurry
spicylambwithspicesanddriedcoconut
spicysquidwithcoconut
sweetcornsaladwithspicesandcoconut
tomatoandcoconutchutney
whitecoconutchutney
yogurtandcoconutcurry
coconutmilk
mangoesincoconutmilk
tangycoconutmilk
coconutwater,rose-flavoured
coffee1,2
colocasia1,2
colour,usingspicesfor
condensation
cordial,greenmango
coriander1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9
corianderandpeanutchutney
dateandcorianderchutney
fishcookedincorianderchutney
herbycorianderfritters
mintandcorianderchutney
onionandcorianderraita
onionandtomatosaladwithdill,corianderandlime
spicycorianderpowderchutney
cornbread
cottagecheese:creamycottagecheeseinspicedmilk
crab
crabcurrywithroastedcoconut
crabstuffedwithmustardandcoconut
cream
makingbutterfrom
cucumber
cucumberandcoconutraita
cucumberandlentilstew
cucumberandmintsalad
fragrantcucumberandpeanutsalad
softricewithyogurt,cucumber,carrotandspices
culinarytermsandtechniques
cumin1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9
curry1,2
Andhra-stylecurrywithpoppyseeds
Bengalichickencurry
Bengalilambcurry
breakfastmeatcurry
butterychickencurry
chickenandspinachcurry
chickencurrywithcreamandspices
chickencurrywithfenugreek
chickencurrywithpeppers
chickenmeatballsinatomatocurry
coastalblackchickpeacurry
crabcurrywithroastedcoconut
creamyBengaliprawncurry
creamychickencurry
creamyfishcurry
curriedchickpeas
curriedeggsencasedinlambmince
eggandridgegourdcurry
eggdropcurry
eggsintomatocurry
fishandgreenmangocurry
Goancoconutchickencurry
Goanfishcurry
Goanporkcurry
Gujarati-stylesweetandsouryogurtcurry
howtomakeabasiccurry
lambbiryaniwithsouthernspices
lambcurrywithmilk
lambcurrywithscrewpinewater
lambinaspicedherbcurry
lightBengalieggcurry
Maduraichickencurry
Maharashtrianfishcurry
Maharashtrianwhitechickencurry
masalachickenwings
meatballcurry
mixedvegetablecurry
mushroomandpeakorma
nine-jewelledcurry
NorthIndianchickenbiryani
NorthIndianfishcurry
Parsilambandlentilcurry
potatoandeggcurry
railwaymuttoncurry
Rajasthanimeatandchillicurry
richcreamypaneercurry
richredKashmiricurry
richredMaharashtriancurry
sautéedmeatcurry
simpleIndianeggcurry
Sindhi-stylechickencurry
slow-cookedbiryani
spicedpotatocurry
spicychickenandcoconutcurry
spicySouthIndianchickencurry
sweetandsourfishcurry
sweetcornandmixedpeppercurry
tangyfishcurry
yogurtandcoconutcurry
yogurtcurrywithfrieddumplings
yogurtcurrywithokra
curryleaves1,2
D
daan-e-daarkhoya
dahikachumber
dahivada
dairyproducts1,2,3,4
dal
dalgosht
dalmakhani
five-lentildal
dalia
dalitoy
dateandcorianderchutney
Delhi
desserts
dhaarunjichutney
dhaniyekichutney
dhungar
dill
onionandtomatosaladwithdill,corianderandlime
dimerjhol
dinner
doimach
doodhichana
dosas1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12
greenmungbeandosa
neerdosa
drinks1,2,3
greenmangocordial
lentilsoupwithtamarind
mangolassi
mangosmoothie
rose-flavouredcoconutwater
saltedlassi
spicedIndiantea
summerlemonade
tangycoconutmilk
turmerictea
duck
pepperyKeraladuck
dum1,2,3
dumplings:milkdumplingsinrose-flavouredsyrup
yogurtcurrywithfrieddumplings
E
eatingout
eggs1,2
bakedeggswithtomato
choosingeggs
curriedeggsencasedinlambmince
eggandridgegourdcurry
eggdropcurry
eggsintomatocurry
lightBengalieggcurry
okrawitheggs
potatoandeggcurry
rice,coconutandeggpancakes
simpleIndianeggcurry
SouthIndianscrambledeggs
spicedmincedeggs
spicyscrambledeggs
elumichaisadam
equipment
F
fennel1,2
fenugreek1,2,3,4
buyingandstoring
chickencurrywithfenugreek
fenugreekleaveswithpotato
fish1,2,3,4,5
Bengalifishinyogurt
choosingfish
creamyfishcurry
fishandgreenmangocurry
fishcookedincorianderchutney
fishmarketsinIndia
fishrecheado
fishstuffedwithchilliandspice
Goanfishcurry
howtotellifitiscooked
Indianfishcakes
lightfishstew
Maharashtrianfishcurry
NorthIndianfishcurry
redchillifish
sweetandsourfishcurry
tangyfishcurry
wholespicedfish
seealsoindividualtypesoffish
flatbreads:sweetlentil-andjaggery-stuffedflatbread
unleavenedflatbreads
flavour:flavouringsfordesserts
usingspicesfor
flours
storingflours
typesof
flowercharassa
fritters:bananafritters
herbycorianderfritters
lentilfrittersinyogurt
onionfritters
vegetablefritters
fruit1,2
fruitchaat
fruitsasam
spicedfruitsalad1,2
fudge,cashewandmilk
G
gajargobishalgamkaachaar
gajarkahalwa
gajarnosambharo
garammasala1,2,3,4,5
garlic1,2,3,4,5,6,7
crispgarlicprawns
crisppotatoandgarlicballs
drycoconutandgarlicfireballchutney
garlicnaan
ginger-garlicpaste
lightlentilsoupwithgarlic
ghee1,2,3,4,5
ginger1,2,3,4
freshgingerraita
ginger-garlicpaste
Goa
Goancoconutchickencurry
Goanfishcurry
Goangreenchicken
Goanporkcurry
goat1,2,3
godamasala
godebatate
Goenchikodi
goldfoil,edible
gourds1,2,3,4,5
bottlegourdwithchanadal
spicedbittergourd
gramflour1,2
crispgramflourstraws
gramflourpancakes
gramfloursweets
softgramflourrolls
gramlentils
greenbeanswithcoconut
greenmungbeandosa
grilledfoods
tipsforsuccessful
gucchikorma
Gujarat1,2
Gujaratidal
Gujarati-stylecabbageandpeasstir-fry
Gujarati-stylesweetandsouryogurtcurry
gujiya
gulabjamun
H
halalmeat
haldikaachar
haldikichai
health,usingspicesfor
herbs1,2
herbycorianderfritters
prawnswithgreenherbs
homecooking
honey1,2
hyderabadikucchibiryani
I
icecream:saffronandpistachioicecream
spicedteaicecream
imlikichutney
inchipachadi
Indiancarrotpudding
Indiancottagecheesewithpeas
Indianfishcakes
Indianricepudding,spiced
ingredients
J
jackfruit1,2,3
jaggery1,2
NorthIndianlentilandjaggerypudding
sweetlentil-andjaggery-stuffedflatbread
jhingahariyali
K
kacchafoods
kachaamerachaar
kachumber
kadaparshad
kajuburfie
kajuchutney
kalan
kanavathoran
kandamirchichazunka
Karahimurghkofte
karelamasala
Karnataka
Kashaya
Kashmiricurry,richred
Kashmir1,2,3,4,5
kebabs
creamychickentikka
mincedlambkebabs
kelyamuluk
Kerala
Keralachickenstew
Keraladuck,peppery
Keralafishmolee
khajuraurdhaniyekichutney
khamangkakdi
khandvi
kheemamutter
kheemekeparatha
kheerepudinekaraita
khekdamasala
khoya1,2
khoya-filledpastries
sweetkhoya
kingfish,SouthIndianfried
kobivatananushak
kodiguddubeerakayakura
kodikurma
koftas:koftacurry
koftapulao
minilambkoftas
kokum1,2
Kolhapurimasala
Kolhapuripandhrarassa
Kolhapuritambdarassa
kolmibhaat
kolmifry
kolminopatio
Konkanichimborimasala
korigassi
korma:mushroomandpeakorma
nine-jewelledcurry
koshamangsho
koshamurgirmangsho
kothimbirvadi
kothimeerapodi
kovilpulihodarai
kozhikuzhambu
kulfi:mangokulfi
masalachaikulfi
kumracharchari
kuttanadantharavuroast
L
laalmaas
lacchaparatha
lalmasalyatlimacchi
lamb1,2,3,4
Andhramuttonfry
Bengalilambcurry
breakfastmeatcurry
curriedeggsencasedinlambmince
lambbiryaniwithsouthernspices
lambcurrywithmilk
lambcurrywithscrewpinewater
lambdhansak
lambinaspicedherbcurry
lambmince-stuffedbread
lambrezala
lambvepudu
lambwithlentils
lambwithspinach
meatballcurry
mincedlambkebabs
mincedlambwithpeas
minilambkoftas
Parsilambandlentilcurry
railwaymuttoncurry
Rajasthanimeatandchillicurry
richredKashmiricurry
richredMaharashtriancurry
roastlegoflamb
sautéedmeatcurry
spicylambwithspicesanddriedcoconut
spicywraps
vegetablepulaowithmeatballs
lasnachichutney
lassi:mangolassi
saltedlassi
lemons:lemonrice
summerlemonade
lentilflours
lentils1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10
bhajamugerdal
chanadalwithraisins
cucumberandlentilstew
digestibility
dosa
five-lentildal
howtocooklentils
lambwithlentils
lentilandricepancakes
lentilfrittersinyogurt
lentilsoupwithtamarind
lentilswithasafoetida
lentilswithonionsandcoriander
lentilswithspinach
lightlentilsoupwithgarlic
Maharashtrianlentilswithasafoetida
makingalentilbatter
NorthIndianlentilandjaggerypudding
Parsilambandlentilcurry
riceandyellowlentilpancakes
softriceandlentilswithspices
SouthIndianlentilandmilkpudding
SouthIndianlentilswithpumpkin
spicedbrownlentils
sproutinglentils
sweetandsourlentils
sweetlentil-andjaggery-stuffedflatbread
tangylentils
limes:onionandtomatosaladwithdill,corianderandlime
sweetlimepickle
lobster
lotusroot
lunch
M
maccherjhol
macchikecutlet
macchimasala
MadhyaPradesh1,2
Maduraichickencurry
Maharashtra
Maharashtriancurry,richred
Maharashtrianfishcurry
Maharashtrianlentilswithasafoetida
Maharashtrianwhitechickencurry
maida
maizeflour
makkaisimlamirchkisubji
makkikiroti
malvanirus-golichiamti
mangopowder
mangoes1,2,3,4,5
fishandgreenmangocurry
greenmangocordial
greenmangopachadi
mangoandcoconutchutney
mangokulfi
mangolassi
mangoseekarane
mangosmoothie
mangoesincoconutmilk
quickBengaligreenmangopickle
sweetmangochutney
marinades
masala
masalachickenwings
masalachai
masalachaikulfi
mashyachiamti
masoordal
masortenga
matkichiusal
meals,planning
meat1,2,3,4,5
breakfastmeatcurry
marinades
Rajasthanimeatandchillicurry
sautéedmeatcurry
seealsobeef;lamb,etc
meatballs:chickenmeatballsinatomatocurry
meatballcurry
vegetablepulaowithmeatballs
menus1,2
methimurgh
milk1,2,3,4,5,6,7
cashewandmilkfudge
clottedsweetmilk
creamycottagecheeseinspicedmilk
lambcurrywithmilk
makingbutterfrom
milkdumplingsinrose-flavouredsyrup
SouthIndianlentilandmilkpudding
milletflour
pearlmilletbread
mint
cucumberandmintsalad
mintandcorianderchutney
mintandcumin-flavouredrice
moath
moongdalhalwa
morkulambu
mosaranna
mothbeans
stir-friedmothsprouts
Mughlaicookery1,2
mungbeans
sproutedmungbeanssalad
mungchaat
mungdalkhichdi
mungdalpayasam
mungflour
munglentils:bhajamugerdal
murghachari
murghdumbiryani
murghjalfrezi
murghkakorma
murghmakhani
murghmalaitikka
murghpankhimasala
murghtikkaachari
murghinafarcha
mushrooms:mushroomandpeakorma
mushroompulao
ricewithmushroomsandcumin
mustard:Bengaliprawnsinmustardandpoppyseedsauce
crabstuffedwithmustardandcoconut
mustardgreens
mustardseeds1,2,3,4,5
muttaikuzhumbu
muttaiporiyal
muttakosthoran
muttarpaneer
mutton1,2,3
muttonkekofte
N
naanbread1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13,14,15
garlicnaan
peshwarinaan
nadanbeeffry
nadankozhiishtu
namkeenlassi
nargisikoftacurry
narialkasharbat
navratankorma
neerdosa
nihari
nilgirikurma
nimbukameethaachaar
nine-jewelledcurry
NorthIndianchickenbiryani
NorthIndianfishcurry
NorthIndianlentilandjaggerypudding
NorthIndianspicedpotatowithcauliflower
nuts1,2
sweetricewithnuts
O
oils1,2
okra:crisp,tangy,spicyokra
okrawitheggs
spicedstir-friedokra
yogurtcurrywithokra
onions1,2,3,4,5
chanadalwithonionandspices
lentilswithonionsandcoriander
onionandcorianderraita
onionandtomatosaladwithdill,corianderandlime
onionbhajia
paneerwithgreenpeppers,onionsandtomatoes
spicybeefwithonions
oondhiyoon
P
paalaada
pachadi
pakodewalikadhi
pakoras
vegetablepakoras
pakwan
palakdal
palakkaraita
palakkisubzi
palakmurgh
palakpaneer
palakpoori
pancakes1,2,3
gramflourpancakes
lentilandricepancakes
riceandyellowlentilpancakes
rice,coconutandeggpancakes
savourycoconutpancakes
semolinapancakes
seealsodosas
panchphoron
panchmeldal
paneer1,2
Indiancottagecheesewithpeas
paneerjalfrezi
paneerwithgreenpeppers,onionsandtomatoes
richcreamypaneercurry
skeweredpaneerandvegetables
spicyscrambledpaneer
spinachwithpaneer
paneerkesuley
paneerkibhurji
parathas1,2,3
Parsilambandlentilcurry
Parsisev
Parsi-stylebrownrice
Parsi-stylefriedchicken
pasta:finevermicellipudding
sweetvermicellipudding
pastries,khoya-filled
pathareprabhuchickenmasala
patranimacchi
pavbhaji
peanuts
auberginesinasesameandpeanutsauce
corianderandpeanutchutney
fragrantcucumberandpeanutsalad
peas1,2
flakedricewithpeas
Gujarati-stylecabbageandpeasstir-fry
Indiancottagecheesewithpeas
mincedlambwithpeas
mushroomandpeakorma
peppercorns1,2
cauliflowerwithcoconutandpepper
pepperyKeraladuck
peppers:chickencurrywithpeppers
paneerwithgreenpeppers,onionsandtomatoes
springonionsandpepperswithgramflour
sweetcornandmixedpeppercurry
pesarattu
peshwarinaan
pheasant
phirni
pickles1,2,3,4
carrot,cauliflowerandturnippickle
quickBengaligreenmangopickle
spicygoanprawnpickle
sweetlimepickle
pigeonpeas
pineappleandpomegranateinspicedyogurt
pistachios
saffronandpistachioicecream
plantains1,2,3
poha1,2
pomegranates
pineappleandpomegranateinspicedyogurt
Sindhipomegranatechutney
poondurasam
pooris1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17
poosanikaisambhar
poppadums
poppyseeds:Andhra-stylecurrywithpoppyseeds
Bengaliprawnsinmustardandpoppyseedsauce
potatoescookedwithpoppyseeds
pork1,2,3,4
chilliporkwithbambooshoots
Goanporkcurry
porkvindaloo
porkwithgaanjtenga
potatoes1,2,3
crisppotatoandgarlicballs
fenugreekleaveswithpotato
NorthIndianspicedpotatowithcauliflower
potatoandeggcurry
potatobatonswithchilliandgarlic
potatocakes
potato-stuffedbread
potatoescookedwithpoppyseeds
potatoeswithtamarindandcream
savourysagoandpotatocakes
sevpuris
spicedpotatocurry
spinachwithpotatoes
poultry1,2,3
seealsochicken
prawns
Andhra-styleprawnfry
creamyBengaliprawncurry
crispgarlicprawns
prawnbalchao
prawnpulao
prawnsinhottamarindsauce
prawnswithgreenherbs
spicygoanprawnpickle
pudinapulao
pudinekichutney
pukkafoods
pulao:prawnpulao
pulaorice
tomatopulao
vegetablepulaowithmeatballs
pulses1,2
pumpkin
pumpkinraita
pumpkinwithmustardseedpaste
SouthIndianlentilswithpumpkin
Punjab
puranpoli
puris1,2,3,4
sevpuris
Q
quail
quantities
qubanikameetha
quinoa
R
raan
rabdi
railwaymuttoncurry
raisins,chanadalwith
raita
beetrootandyogurtraita
Bengalitomatoraita
boondiraita
cucumberandcoconutraita
cucumberandmintsalad
freshgingerraita
onionandcorianderraita
pumpkinraita
spicedspinachraita
Rajasthan1,2
Rajasthanimeatandchillicurry
rajmatamater
rasam
rasmalai
rava
ravauttapam
redkidneybeans1,2,3
redkidneybeanswithtomatoes
regionalcooking
relishes
freshturmericrootrelish
rice1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9
chavalplainboiledrice
coconutrice
cookingmethods1,2
dosa
flakedricewithpeas
lemonrice
lentilandricepancakes
mintandcumin-flavouredrice
neerdosa
NorthIndianchickenbiryani
prawnpulao
riceandyellowlentilpancakes
rice,coconutandeggpancakes
ricewithcuminandfriedonions
ricewithfriedonionsandcaramel
ricewithmushroomsandcumin
savourycoconutpancakes
setricepudding
slow-cookedbiryani
softriceandlentilswithspices
softricewithyogurt,cucumber,carrotandspices
spicedauberginerice
spicedIndianricepudding
spicedNorthIndianriceandvegetablemedley
storingcookedrice
sweetricewithnuts
tamarindrice
tomatopulao
varietiesofrice
vegetablepulaowithmeatballs
riceflour1,2
roganjosh
rosewater
milkdumplingsinrose-flavouredsyrup
rose-flavouredcoconutwater
rotis1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17,18,19,20,21,22,23,24,25,26,27,28,29,30,31,32,33,34,35,36,37,38,39,40,41,42,43,44,45,46,47
royallavepudu
S
saagaloo1,2
saaggosht
sabudanakhichdi
sabudanavada
sabutmasoorkidal
saffron
saffronandpistachioicecream
semolinaandsaffronpudding
sago:savourysagoandpotatocakes
spicedpearlsago
salads
beansalad
cucumberandmintsalad
fragrantcucumberandpeanutsalad
fruitsaladwithtangyspices
onionandtomatosalad
spicedfruitsalad
sproutedmungbeanssalad
sweetandspicybananasalad
sweetcornsaladwithspicesandcoconut
warmcarrotsalad
salt1,2
sambharpowder
samosas1,2,3
chickensamosas
vegetablesamosa
Saojimutton
screwpinewater
lambcurrywithscrewpinewater
seafood1,2
sebkichutney
seeds
toasting
seekhkebab
semolina
savourysemolina
semolinaandsaffronpudding
semolinapancakes
sesameseeds
auberginesinasesameandpeanutsauce
sev
sevpuri
seviankheer
seyalmurgh
shahipaneer
shahitukde
sharkfishcrumble
shelflife,usingspicestoincrease
shikanjvi
shorshechingribhapa
shrikhand
silverfoil,edible
Sindhidal
Sindhikadhi
Sindhipomegranatechutney
Sindhi-stylebread,crisp
Sindhi-stylechickencurry
smoothie,mango
snacks
solkadi
sooji
soojikahalwa
sorrelleaves
soups:lentilsoupwithtamarind
lightlentilsoupwithgarlic
souringagents
SouthIndianchickencurry,spicy
SouthIndianfriedkingfish
SouthIndianlentilandmilkpudding
SouthIndianlentilswithpumpkin
SouthIndianscrambledeggs
spices1,2
spiceblends
storing
toasting
spinach
chickenandspinachcurry
friedspinachbread
lambwithspinach
lentilswithspinach
spicedspinachraita
spinachanddillmedley
spinachwithpaneer
spinachwithpotatoes
springonionsandpepperswithgramflour
squidwithcoconut,spicy
stews:cucumberandlentilstew
Keralachickenstew
lightfishstew
stir-fry,Gujarati-stylecabbageandpeas
streetfood
subziyonkitahiri
summerlemonade
suraputtu
sweetandsourfishcurry
sweetpotatoes
sweetcorn:sweetcornandmixedpeppercurry
sweetcornsaladwithspicesandcoconut
sweets1,2,3,4,5
cashewandmilkfudge
gramfloursweets
T
tadka
talna
tamarind1,2,3,4
howtomaketamarindpulp
lentilsoupwithtamarind
potatoeswithtamarindandcream
prawnsinhottamarindsauce
sweettamarindchutney
tamarindrice
tamaterkakut
tamaterpulao
TamilNadu
tamotapareedu
tandoorovens1,2,3
tandoorigobhi
tandoorimacchli
tandoorimurgh
tandoori-stylechicken
tarkadal
tea1,2,3
herbaltea
spicedIndiantea
spicedteaicecream
turmerictea
teetabhaat
temperingfoods
thakkalipachadi
thalipeeth
thengaichutney
tikhatkeli
tikka
creamychickentikka
tomatoes1,2,3,4,5
Assamesesweetandsourtomatochutney
bakedeggswithtomato
Bengalitomatoraita
chickenmeatballsinatomatocurry
eggsintomatocurry
onionandtomatosalad
paneerwithgreenpeppers,onionsandtomatoes
redkidneybeanswithtomatoes
tomatoandcoconutchutney
tomatopulao
turmeric1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8
freshturmericrootrelish
turmerictea
turnips
carrot,cauliflowerandturnippickle
U
upma
uraddal
uradflour
UttarPradesh1,2
V
val
sweetvalbeans
valachebirde
vangefry
vangibhaath
vangyachebhareet
vanjarammeenvaruval
varq
vatanepohe
vegetables1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9
leafyvegetables
mixedvegetablecurrywithcoconut
mixedvegetablesincoconutandyogurt
mixedvegetableswithajowanandcoconut
pavbhaji
regionalvegetables
rootvegetables
skeweredpaneerandvegetables
spicedNorthIndianriceandvegetablemedley
spicyvegetablecutlets
vegetablefritters
vegetablepakoras
vegetablepulaowithmeatballs
vegetablesaagu
vegetablesamosa
vegetablesinagramfloursauce
seealsopeas;potatoes,etc
vegetarianism1,2
vellarikapachadi
vellarikkakootu
vermicelli:finevermicellipudding
sweetvermicellipudding
vinegar
W
W
water
Wazawan
wheatflour1,2
wholewheatpudding
wine1,2,3
wraps,spicy
X
xacuti
Y
yams1,2,3
yogurt1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10
beetrootandyogurtraita
Bengalifishinyogurt
boondiraita
condensedyogurtandcardamomcream
Gujarati-stylesweetandsouryogurtcurry
lentilfrittersinyogurt
makingbutterfrom
mixedvegetablesincoconutandyogurt
pineappleandpomegranateinspicedyogurt
roastedauberginewithyogurt
softricewithyogurt,cucumber,carrotandspices
yogurtandcoconutcurry
yogurtcurrywithfrieddumplings
yogurtcurrywithokra
Z
zarda
PICTURECREDITS
AllimagesbyGarethMorgansexceptforthefollowing:
1©GalitSeligmann/AlamyStockPhoto
1(topleft)©TimGainey/AlamyStockPhoto;(topmiddle)©SandroLacarbona/AlamyStockPhoto;(topright)©AnilSharma/AlamyStockPhoto;(middleleft)©Indiaview/AlamyStockPhoto;(middleright)SajjadHussain/Stringer/GettyImages;(bottomleft)©FLPA/AlamyStockPhoto;(bottomright)©Hemis/AlamyStockPhoto1©dbimages/AlamyStockPhoto1©Robertharding/AlamyStockPhoto1(left)©ClaudeRenault/GettyImages;(middle)©MartinHarvey/AlamyStockPhoto1©DavidFettes/GettyImages1©Bloomberg/GettyImages
1©JS/AlamyStockPhoto
1©AroonThaewchatturat/AlamyStockPhoto1©ephotocorp/AlamyStockPhoto1©MatthieuPaley
1©TimGraham/AlamyStockPhoto1©MatthieuPaley
1©SanatKumarSingh/AlamyStockPhoto1©IndiaPictures/GettyImages1©TimGainey/AlamyStockPhoto1©DinodiaPhotos/AlamyStockPhoto1©YawarNazir/GettyImages1©JeremyWoodhouse/GettyImages1©TimGainey/AlamyStockPhoto1©Robertharding/AlamyStockPhoto1©Bloomberg/GettyImages
1©TimGainey/AlamyStockPhoto1©NituMistry/AlamyStockPhoto1©DanitaDelimont/AlamyStockPhoto1©MuslianshahMasrie/AlamyStockPhoto1©MatthieuPaley
1©MatthieuPaley
1©PacificPress/GettyImages1©IndiaPictures/GettyImages1©MichaelMarquand/GettyImages1©MuthuramanVaithinathan/AlamyStockPhoto1©TauseefMustafa/Stringer/GettyImages1©MatthieuPaley
1©MatthieuPaley
1©MatthieuPaley
1©SubhenduSarkar/GettyImages1©MatthieuPaley
1©MatthieuPaley
1©MatthieuPaley
1©MatthieuPaley
1©Ayan82/GettyImages
1©BoazRottem/AlamyStockPhoto1©StuartForster/AlamyStockPhoto1©BonkersAboutTravel/AlamyStockPhoto1©VikramRaghuvanshi/GettyImages1©NigelKilleen/GettyImages1©agefotostock/AlamyStockPhoto1©AmandaKosterProductions/GettyImages1©PhotosIndia.comLLC/AlamyStockPhoto1©Westend61GmbH/AlamyStockPhoto1©MatthieuPaley
1©TimGainey/AlamyStockPhoto1©JakeLyell/AlamyStockPhoto1©GregElms/GettyImages
1©TimGraham/GettyImages1©MatthieuPaley
1©BartoszHadyniak/GettyImages1©MatthieuPaley
1©MoneySharma/GettyImages1©KeithBeaty/GettyImages1©SaurabhRajSharan/GettyImages1©PacificPress/GettyImages1©DinodiaPhotos/AlamyStockPhoto1©Biju
Boro/Stringer/GettyImages1©BoazRottem/AlamyStockPhoto1©TimGainey/AlamyStockPhoto1©DinodiaPhotos/AlamyStockPhoto1©DinodiaPhotos/AlamyStockPhoto1©MatildaDelves/GettyImages1©MatthieuPaley
1©TimGainey/AlamyStockPhoto1©YogeshMore/AlamyStockPhoto1©SamPanthaky/GettyImages1©AFP/Stringer/GettyImages1(left)©HindustanTimes/GettyImages;(middle)©YawarNazir/GettyImages;(right)©Bloomberg/GettyImages1©BashirOsman’sPhotography/GettyImages1©HindustanTimes/GettyImages1©MatthieuPaley
1©MatthieuPaley
1©MatthieuPaley
FURTHERINFORMATION
BooksIllustratedFoodsofIndiabyK.T.Achaya(OxfordUniversityPressIndia,2009)
RoyalLifeinManasollasabyP.Arundhati(SundeepPrakashan,1994)
VegetableCropsbyT.R.Gopalakrishnan(NewIndia,NewDelhi,2007)
KanvasatapathabrahmanampublishedbytheIndiraGandhiNationalCentrefortheArtsinassociationwithMotilalBanarasidassPublishersPvtLtd.
Ain-i-AkbaribyAbu’l-FazlibnMubarak,translatedbyHeinrichBlochmannandHenrySullivanJarrett(GeorgiasPress,2010)orhttps://archive.org
RecentAdvancesinIndo-PacificPrehistory,editedbyVirendraN.MisraandPeterBellwood(OxfordandIBHPublishingCo.,1985)
CharakaSamhitahttps://archive.org
TheRigvedatranslatedbyRalphGriffin(CreateSpaceIndependentPublishingPlatform,2015)
IngredientsForonlinespicesandingredientstry:www.seasonedpioneers.comwww.itadka.com
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
AbigthankyoutoKyleCathieforofferingmethisbook–itwasaprojectIsowantedtodo!Alsotomyeditor,VickyOrchard,forhermeticulousandpersistentattentiontodetail;toGarethMorgans,forthescrumptiousphotographyandajollylaugh(ormany)alongwithSunilVijayakarwhosestylingmakesthebookalmostedible!PollyWebb-WilsondidamarvellousjobwithpropsandJennyandRosieweredelightfultoworkwithinthestudio.ThankyoualsotomychildrenArrushandIndiaforbeingwilling‘testers’asIcreatedcountlessrecipesinmykitchenandforgoingwithmeonallthosefoodtripsaroundIndia–maywedomanymore!!
DEDICATION
ForArrushandIndia,withallmylove,always
FirstpublishedinGreatBritainin2016byKyleBooksanimprintofKyleCathieLimited
192–198VauxhallBridgeRoad,LondonSW1V1DX
eISBN9780857835932
MonishaBharadwajisherebyidentifiedastheauthorofthisworkinaccordancewithSection77oftheCopyright,DesignsandPatentsAct1988.
Allrightsreserved.Noreproduction,copyortransmissionofthispublicationmaybemadewithoutwrittenpermission.Noparagraphofthispublicationmaybereproduced,copiedortransmittedsave
withwrittenpermissionorinaccordancewiththeprovisionsoftheCopyrightAct1956(asamended).Anypersonwhodoesanyunauthorisedactinrelationtothispublicationmaybeliableto
criminalprosecutionandcivilclaimsfordamages.
Text©MonishaBharadwaj2016Photographs©GarethMorgans2016exceptthoselistedonhereDesign©KyleBooks2016Mapillustration(1)©JamieWhyte2016
Editor:VickyOrchardEditorialassistant:AmberleyLowisDesign:JaneHumphreyPhotography:GarethMorgansFoodstyling:SunilVijayakarPropsstyling:PollyWebb-WilsonProduction:NicJones
andGemmaJohn