TableofContents

TitlePageCopyrightPageDedicationPARTI-ChangingCourses

CHAPTER1-We’llAlwaysHaveParisCHAPTER2-WhatWouldJuliaDo?CHAPTER3-TheSecretLanguageofKitchensCHAPTER4-It’sNotAbouttheKnifeCHAPTER5-AMatterofTasteCHAPTER6-FowlPlayCLASSBREAK-CruiseControlPARTII-ABitAboutMeats,Bread,Pasta,Salads,andVinaigrettes

CHAPTER7-TheBreadAlsoRisesCHAPTER8-TossedSalad&ScrambledEggsCHAPTER9-UdderConfusionCLASSBREAK-TheRedVelvetDinnersPARTIII-Seafood,Soup,andtheImportanceofLeftovers

CHAPTER10-ThePleasuresoftheFishCHAPTER11-What’sintheBox?CHAPTER12-WasteNot,WantNotCHAPTER13-ThePowerofSoupCHAPTER14-Kitchens,Revisited

ExtraRecipesAcknowledgementsSelectedBibliographyRecommendedReadingIndexofRecipesALSOBYKATHLEENFLINN

ALSOBYKATHLEENFLINN

TheSharperYourKnife,theLessYouCry:Love,Laughter,andTearsattheWorld’sMostFamousCookingSchool

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PenguinGroup(USA)Inc.,375HudsonStreet,NewYork,NewYork10014,U.S.A.•PenguinGroup(Canada),90EglintonAvenueEast,Suite700,Toronto,Ontario,CanadaM4P2Y3(adivisionofPearsonPenguinCanadaInc.)•PenguinBooksLtd,80Strand,LondonWC2R0RL,England•PenguinIreland,25St.Stephen’sGreen,Dublin2,Ireland(adivisionofPenguinBooksLtd)•PenguinBooksAustraliaLtd,250CamberwellRoad,Camberwell,Victoria3124,Australia(adivisionofPearsonAustraliaGroupPtyLtd)•PenguinBooksIndiaPvtLtd,11CommunityCentre,PanchsheelPark,NewDelhi–110017,India•PenguinGroup(NZ),67ApolloDrive,Rosedale,Auckland0632,NewZealand(adivisionofPearsonNewZealandLtd)•PenguinBooks(SouthAfrica)(Pty)Ltd,24SturdeeAvenue,Rosebank,Johannesburg2196,

SouthAfricaPenguinBooksLtd,RegisteredOffices:80Strand,LondonWC2R0RL,EnglandFirstpublishedin2011byVikingPenguin,amemberofPenguinGroup(USA)Inc.

Copyright©KathleenFlinn,2011Allrightsreserved

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Flinn,Kathleen.Thekitchencountercookingschool:howafewsimplelessonstransformednineculinarynovicesinto

fearlesshomecooks/KathleenFlinn.p.cm.

Includesbibliographicalreferencesandindex.ISBN:978-1-101-54451-8

1.Cooking—Studyandteaching—Anecdotes.2.Flinn,Kathleen—Anecdotes.3.Cookbooks.I.Title.TX661.F572011

641.507—dc232011016222

Withoutlimitingtherightsundercopyrightreservedabove,nopartofthispublicationmaybereproduced,storedinorintroducedintoaretrievalsystem,ortransmitted,inanyformorbyanymeans(electronic,mechanical,photocopying,recordingorotherwise),withoutthepriorwrittenpermissionofboththe

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Formymother,IreneForencouragingmetofindjoyineverything,notjustcooking

Author’sNote

Intheory,thestorypresentedhereinrepresentsayearofmylifeteachingoneroundoflessonstoninevolunteerstudents.Inreality,it’stheresultofnumerousadditionalkitchenvisits,scoresofinterviewswithcooks,researchers,andcookingteachers,plusmyownteachingexperiencesintheyearsincetheprojectended.Irecordedeveryhomeinterviewandmostoftheoriginalclasses,resultingin

aboutfiftyhoursofvideoandtwohundredpagesofhandwrittennotes.I’vedonemybesttoportrayeventsaccurately,butconsolidatedorshiftedeventsandcommentsinsomesituations.Inafewscenes,thedialogueinclasseswasbuiltfrommemory.Thenamesofsomeofthevolunteersandtheirchildrenhavebeenchangedtoprotecttheirprivacy.Whenitcomestothetechniquestaughthere,ardentfoodiesorculinary

professionalsmaydebatethe“right”methodtoroastachickenorsomeothertechnique.ImightevenlookbackontheselessonstofindthatIhavechangedthewayIteachthesamerecipes.That’soneofthegreatthingsaboutcooking;there’smorethanonewaytoskinafish.Aslongasanapproachyieldsgood,nourishingfood,itisn’t“wrong.”

PARTI

ChangingCourses

“Formostpeople,theonlyrealstumblingblockisfearoffailure.Incookingyou’vegottohaveawhat-the-hellattitude.”

—JuliaChild

Terri,Trish,Shannon,andSabrapracticeknifeskills

CHAPTER1We’llAlwaysHaveParis“Theysaythattimechangesthingsbutyou

actuallyhavetochangethemyourself.”

—AndyWarhol,poparticon

StandingonthestagedeliveringthegraduationspeechatLeCordonBleuin

Parisisnottheoptimaltimeforanexistentialcrisis.YetthereIstoodinmysimpleblackdress,speechinhand,dwarfedbythe

vaultedgildedceilingsoftheopulentballroominLeClubduCerclejustofftheChamps-Élysées.Twoyearsearlier,Ihadawaitedmydiplomasittingrightwherethisyear’sgraduateswerenow.TheschoolknewthatIwouldbeinParistoleadaculinarytourandaskedifI

wouldspeak.I’dsaidyes,flattered,beforethinkingthewholethingthrough.Theapplauseatmyintroductiondriftedawayduringtheeternityittooktowalktothepodium.Isilentlysurveyedtherowsoftheimmaculatelydressedaudience.InthefrontsattwoofthemanyyoungJapanesewomeninfullcelebrationkimonos,theirsmallhandscarefullyfoldedintheirlaps.Behindme,adozeninstructorchefsintalltoquesspannedthewidthofthestageinasinglerow,waiting.Ihidmypanicbehindamanicsmile.WhatwasIdoinghere?WhatwordsofwisdomcouldIpossiblyofferwhenI

wasn’tsurewhattodonextwithmyownlife?Atagethirty-seven,Ihadrealizedmylifelongdreamtograduatefromtheworld’smostfamouscookingschool.ButwhatwasIsupposedtodonow?Ikepthearingtwoquestionsagainandagain,oftenfromthesamepeople.

“Yougraduatedfromculinaryschool,whereisyourrestaurant?”and“Whenareyoutwohavingkids?”Ihadnoanswerforeither.

AlothadhappenedsinceI’dleftschool.I’dsettledintomarriedlifeinSeattlewhilemyhusband,Mike,hadjoinedastart-upcompany.We’dexperiencedtheusualstuffoflifeasitmarchedunrelentinglyonward;friendsandrelativesgotmarried,othersdivorced,afewhadchildren,andacouplegotsick.Idealtwiththecurious,feast-andfaminelifeofauthorship.TwodaysafterIreadtoapackedcrowdattheJamesBeardHouseinNewYork,IstoodbeforeanaudienceofthreeatabookstoreeventinSanFrancisco,andthatincludedtwoofthestoreemployees.ThenextweekinMilwaukee,aquirkywomanwearinghersweaterinsideoutaskedmetosignabook—tohercats.Iwrote,“DearMr.HinkelandWinkiePie,Ihopeyouenjoythebook,especiallythepartsaboutthefish.”AboutthreeweeksbeforethistriptoParis,Mikehadastrangepremonition.

“I’mgoingtojoinmydadonhisvacationinMexicoafterall.Ican’texplainit,butIfeelthatifIdon’tgo,I’llneverseehimagain.”WithinminutesofMike’sarrivalathisdad’stime-share,somethingwent

wrong.Hisdad,Floyd,pawedawkwardlyagainstthedresserandsuddenlyfellheavilyforward.Mikecaughthimandtheytumbledtothefloor.AdoctorarrivedonthesceneandsaidFloydhadsufferedasmallstroke.Astandardproceduretobreakupthestroke-causingclotledtoamassivebrainhemorrhage,sendingFloydintoacoma.MikearrangedforanairlifttoaMiamihospitalforpossiblesurgery.Afteranagonizingthirty-six-hourwait,doctorsdeclaredthatnothingcouldbedone.Overthenextweek,wewatchedhelplesslyasFloydslippedaway.OnaclearMayafternoon,Mikebrokedownashedeliveredtheeulogyata

packedchurchinSpokane,Washington.“Hewasmybestfriend...thebestmanatmyweddingand...”Mikestopped,fightingbacktears.Hissistercameupandtookhishand.“Ialwayswantedtogrowuptobejustlikehim.”WeleftforParisthreedaysafterthefuneral.Whentheseatbeltlightdinged,

wefinallyexhaled.Wefeltastrangesenseofrelief,asifleavingthegriefandstressbehind.Standingatthepodiumwithallthisfreshinmymind,IclearedmythroatasI

surveyedtheaudiencesittinginquietexpectation.Iunfoldedmyspeech.Thesharpcrinklingofpaperechoedloudlyinthevastroom.IlookedatMikejustoffstage,proudlygrippingavideocamera.Hetippedhisheadforwardinanodofencouragement.Ifoldedmyspeechbackup.“So,todayyou’veearnedyourculinarydegree.Whatareyougoingtodowith

it?”Iasked.“Howmanyofyouknow?Raiseyourhands.”Asmallgroupheldtheirarmsaloft.“Here’swhatsomeofmyclassmatesdidwiththeirs.”Italkedaboutthe

“Here’swhatsomeofmyclassmatesdidwiththeirs.”ItalkedaboutthefriendsI’dmetatLeCordonBleu.SharonhadlaboredatInternetstart-upcompanies,butnowresidedasachefandkoshercatererinherhometownofTelAviv.LelyhadtradedcorporatemarketingtorunacookingschoolinJakarta.JosehadlefthisjobsellingshoestoattendLeCordonBleuandwasnowanapprenticeinaMichelin-starredrestaurantinMadrid.Isabella,aformerpsychologist,hadworkedastheprivatechefforaRussianpaperbaronandlatermovedtoLosAngeles,whereshetaughtcookingclassesinFrenchtoHollywoodcelebrities’kids.Chinese-bornandBritish-bredLPhadbeenanattorneyinLondon,butshenowmanagedaFrenchwineimportbusinessinShanghai.Anotherfriendhadreturnedtoworkasamanagementconsultant,butdidprobonoworkanalyzingfooddistributionissuestocombathungerinplacessuchasMozambique.“Peopleask,‘Whatcanyoudowithaculinarydegree?’Therealityisthatyou

cangoanywhereanddoanything,”Icontinued.“You’reonlylimitedbyyourpassionandyourimagination.Beopentothepossibilities,takechances.Yourcareerdoesn’thavetobetraditional.Itdoesn’tevenhavetobeinarestaurantoreveninakitchen.“Forsomereason,yourpassionforcookingandyourdesiretonourishpeople

ledyoutothismomentandplaceintime.Considerforamomentwhatsuccesslookslikewhenpassionenterstheequation.Isitmoney?Isitfame?Orisithavingthestrengthtofollowthatpassion?Tohavethewilltogodownapathyouneverthoughtyou’dventure?”Ilookedatthestudents’faces.Mostwereimpossiblyyoung.“Nomatterwhat,

rememberthatlifeisshort,shorterthanyouthink.”IlookedatMikeagain.IthoughtbacktoourfinalmomentintheMiamihospitalwithhisfather,tothelasttimeIsawmyowndadwhenIwasthirteen,andthetear-filledinterviewsthatIconductedwritingobitsinmyearlytwenties.“Itcanbegonejustlikethat,”Icontinued,andsnappedmyfingersinfrontofthemicrophone.Thesoundechoedlikeastonedroppingintoawell.“Youthinkyou’llfigureitoutsomeday,onlytofindthatsomedaynevercomes.”Mythroatcaughtonthewords.“OnethingthatIhopeyou’lldoistrynottofocusonwhatotherpeopleexpectfromyou.AtonepointinmylifeIwassoconcernedaboutthenextrungonthecorporateladder,andonlylaterrealizedImissedtheentirepointoftheclimb.Findsomethingyoubelievein.Then,justdoit.That’swhatmatters.”Thecrowdapplauded,butthetoquesrustledbehindme.“Oùestla

traduction?”Whereisthetranslation?Iheardachefask.Betweenthefuneralandbeingunsureofwhattosay,I’dturnedinthespeechtoolateforanofficial

translation.EveryoneagreedthatifIdiditontheflyinmypaltryFrench,we’dbethereallnight.Foronce,mostofthechefscouldn’tunderstandme.Atthereception,asIwasclutchingmychampagne,aradiantyoungwoman

approached.Hersilkyyellow-orangerobesandsequinedheaddressperchedatopherjet-blackhairremindedmeofanextrafromtheElizabethTaylorversionofCleopatra.HessahailedfromBahrain,butshespokeEnglishinanaccentmorebefittingamidwesterncollegesororitysisterwithatwingeofValleyGirl.“I,like,reallyidentifiedwithyourspeech.I’msuchaquestionmark.Howdopeoplefigureoutwhattheywanttodo?Whatareyoudoing?Doyouhavearestaurant?”BeforeIcouldanswer,thefabulouslysuaveChefSavardarrivedatmyside.

Hehadchangedfromhischef’swhitesintoatansuedeblazerandblackturtlenecktostrikingeffect.Afterkissingmeonbothcheeks,heasked,“So,chérie,tellme,whatareyoudoingwithyourculinarytraining?AreyouandMikegoingtohaveanychildren?”Idownedmychampagne.

Despiteouremotionallyfragilestates,thetripstartedwell.Freshfromourflight,MikedroppedourbagsinthetidyrentalapartmentnearRueMoufftardinthe5tharrondissementandimmediatelywentdownstairs.Hereturnedwithapairofwarm,freshbaguettesandasmallbagofgoodsfromanearbyalimentation,theParisianequivalentofaconveniencestore.Werippedgreedilyatthestill-warmbread,slatheringitwithsweetFrenchbutterandfinishingeachbitewithasipofcold,bracingChablis.Jet-lagged,wenappedmightilyuntildinnertime.Weawoke,disoriented,to

thestickysummerheatandcrimsontwilight,thedistinctwailofFrenchambulancesdriftingthroughtheopenshutters.Halfawake,weslippedoutsidetoexperiencethecityasifinadream.Thewidesidewalksreflectedtheheatofthedayaswereacquaintedourselveswiththemarvelsofseventeenth-centuryarchitectureandthebrazenyetsophisticatedfemalenudityofmodernFrenchadvertising.WesawParisianssittingatsmallroundtables,sippingtinyespressosorglassesofwine.WewalkedthestreetstotheSeine,drewindeepbreathsofitsearthyscent,andlookedoutoverthelatesummersunset.Wefeltstrangelyathome.Thespeechoccurredatthestartofourtrip,butourprimaryreasonforbeing

therewastoleadavacationtourorganizedbytheAmericanAutomobileAssociation.Itwasbilledasa“culinarytourofParis”;MikeandIagreedtotakeagroupofAmericansthroughanabbreviatedversionofourlifeinthecity.The

agroupofAmericansthroughanabbreviatedversionofourlifeinthecity.Theweekthetourstarted,wemetSabine,thetouroperatorinParis.“Itisasmallgroup,yes,butthepeopleherehaveallreadyourbookandareveryexcitedtomeetyouboth.”ThegroupwasadiversemixthatrangedfromaparalegaltoaflightattendanttoawealthyFloridahomemakerwhowieldedadiamondringthesizeofababyfoodjar.Tokickoffthetour,MikeandIledawalkingtourofourformer

neighborhoodnearLesHalles.Amongasmatteringofmealsandsightseeing,theitineraryincludedatourofthewholesalefoodmarketRungis,followedbyalunchbuffetofimpeccablyfreshfishdeliveredonlyhoursearliertothemassiveseafoodhangaracrossfromtherestaurant.Thenextday,weheadednorthinminibusestoRouen,bestknownastheplacewhereJoanofArcwasimprisonedbytheEnglish,thenburnedatthestake.Ourvisitwasfordinneratanequallyimportantlandmark,atleastforme:LaCouronne,therestaurantwhereJuliaChildateherfirstmealinFrance.JuliaChildismylongtimehero.Afterearningherdiploma,shethrewherselfintowritingMasteringtheArtofFrenchCooking,aneffortthatturnedintoadecade-longprojectthatdefinedthelaterpartofherlife.ImetJuliaattheedgeofanearlierexistentialcrisiswhenIwastwenty-threeyearsold,shortlyafterIfirstbeganlongingtostudyatLeCordonBleubutkeptmydesiresecret.ShewasamongthefirstpeopletowhomIrevealedwhatseemedlikeanimpossibledreamthen:tostudycookinginParis.Eacheveningafterdinner,theweeklongagendadescendedintothe“where

willMikeandKathleentakeusdrinking?”tour.Ifthere’sonebrightspotinmyFrench-speakingskills,it’smyabilitytonavigatethedelicaterigorsoforderingaroundofbeverages.OneeveningMikeledanimpromptu“IntroductiontoCalvados”lessonatthehotelbar.Anothernight,wefamiliarizedourgroupwithFrenchbeersandmartiniblancosataplacenearthePalaisRoyal.Weenjoyedthegroupsomuchthatweorganizedadinnerwiththemonthe

onefreeeveningontheitinerary.AswedinedonthepatioofasmallbistroonRueMoufftard,webegantonoticeworkerscarryingfakehamsandrubberlambshankspassingbyourtable.OurwaitertoldusthatscenesfromthefilmversionofJulie&Juliawouldbeshotonthestreetthenextday.Bythenextmorning,asmallarmyofpropdesignersandcarpentersfinished

transformingthecornerintoastreetmarketfromthe1950s.Workersinstalledbrand-newsignsdesignedtoappearweatheredabovethedoors.Theybroughtinaginghandcarts,dozensofbarrels,antiquecashregisters,andevena1940s-eradeliverytruck.Afewextraswalkedaroundin1950sgarb,smokingandtalkingontheircellphones,carefultoavoidthethicktangleofcablesthatledtoa

ontheircellphones,carefultoavoidthethicktangleofcablesthatledtoamassivecameraandlightingsetupchokingthesmallstreet’sintersection.MikeandIwatchedMerylStreep,dressedasJulia,wanderingthemarket

duringJulia’searlydayslearningtocookinParisasastudentatLeCordonBleu.Evenfromadistance,wecouldseearadiantsmileas“Julia”tookitallinwithdelight.Bychance,thetourendedthenextdaywithitsadvertisedhighlight:aprivate

classatLeCordonBleu.Asweenteredthefamiliarglassdoors,Ifeltpangsofstress,asifIwerestillastudent,alivingversionofananxietydreamfromwhichI’llprobablyneverawaken.JustasIbeganabrieftour,oneofmytoughestteachers,theGrayChef,appearedfromaroundthecorner.Hehadoncescoldedmemercilesslyforatoo-sweetduckàl’orangesauce,promptingmetofleethekitchenintears.Iintroducedhim,firstinstutteringEnglishandtheninclumsyFrench.Recognizinghisnamefromthebook,thegroupdescendedasahungrypackontheman—whonowseemedmuchshorterthanIremembered—circlingforaphoto.Iofferedtotakeit.Suddenly,theonce-imposingGrayCheflookedvulnerableandintimidated.Ifeltoverwhelmingtendernessforhim.“Êtes-vouscélèbremaintenant?”heaskedgingerly.Areyoufamousnow?“Non,chef,vousêtes,”Itoldhimsweetly.No,youare.Hesmiledbroadly

andthenspreadhisarmsaroundthegroup,confidentagain.Iclickedthephoto.Aftertherestofthegroupdepartedthenextmorning,onepersonremainedfor

anextraday.Hollywasanaffablesilver-hairedflightattendantfromOrlandoinherearlysixties.HollyhadcometoPariswithasecretmission.AswestoodonthehistoricPontNeufbridge,sheconfessedthatshehadbeendiscreetlyleavingbitsofherlatesister’sashesonthetrip.“ShewantedtovisitParisallherlife,butshealwaysfoundreasonsnottodo

it,”Hollysaid.MymindwenttoFloyd.We’dinvitedMike’sdadtovisituswhenwelivedinParisandevenofferedtobuyhimaspotontheAAAtour.Healwaysdeclined,althoughhepromisedhe’dvisit“someday.”Justthen,astheEiffelTowereruptedinasparklingdisplayofstrobelights,Hollyreachedintoherpocket,pulledoutasmallbag,andemptieditintotheSeine.“Nowshefinallygottocomehere,andstay,”Hollysaid.Justbeforehersisterdied,theywatchedthemovieSomething’sGottaGive,starringDianeKeaton,whosecharactervisitsPariseveryyearonherbirthdaytodineonroastchickenatabistrocalledLeGrandColbert.“Shewasgoingthroughchemo,andshekeptsaying,‘I’mgoingtogetthroughthisbecauseIwanttoeatatthatrestaurantinParis.’TheideaofthatmealandcomingtoParisgotherthroughallofit,atleastmentally.Butfinally,herbodyjustgaveup.”Thatnight,thethreeofusdinedatLeGrandColbert.Aswebidfarewellto

Thatnight,thethreeofusdinedatLeGrandColbert.Aswebidfarewelltothegildeddecor,Hollydepositedabitofhersisterinapottedfernnearthebar.MikeandIhadarrangedaweektoourselvesinParisafterthetourgroupended.Wethoughtthatwe’dberelievedtohavethetimealone,butMikeandImissedtheenthusiasmofthegroup.SpurredonbythatdinnerwithHolly,tomakeupfortheirabsenceandtoavoidthinkingofMike’sdad,weate.Webeganbyhauntingourfavoritebistros.Curiously,adisproportionate

numberoftheirnamescontaincochon,theFrenchwordfor“pig.”AtAuPieddeCochonatLesHalles,weorderedsteamingbowlsofarguablythebestFrenchonionsoupinParis.WemadeagameofdiggingintothehotcrustofGruyèreandpullingtheoozing,saltycheesewithourforksafootoffthetableasthepungent-yet-sweetaromaofonion-scentedbeefstockwaftedaroundtheroomlikeaheavycloud.AtAuxTroisPetitsCochons,westarteddinnerwiththickslabsoffoiegras,spreadingitlikethesmoothestbutterontocrisptoasts.AuCochondeLaitinthe19tharrondissement,anondescriptyetwelcomingplacethatonceservedtheworkersoftheslaughteringtradethatoperatednearby,hadthearomaofgrilledsteaks,campfire,andstaleredwine.Theonlyforeignersinaseaofregulars,weorderedtheirspecialty,l’OngletVillette,awickedlytenderhangersteaktoppedwithabutteryheapofcaramelizedonionssplashedwithredwineandasideofknife-cutcrispfries.Webothclosedoureyestochew,andopenedthemtofindourwaitressautomaticallyrefillingourpichetofredwinewithaknowingsmile.“IwishthatmydadhadcometoParis,atleastonce.Hewouldhaveloved

this,”Mikesaid.NeitherofuswantedtotalkabouttheemptyplaceinourheartsthatwouldgreetuswhenweleftthedistractionsofParis.Onourlastnightinthecity,inlieuofastandardauthorreadingatabookstore,IpresentedaknifeskillsdemonstrationatWHSmith,asplendidEnglish-languagebookstoreatPlacedelaConcorde,theintersectionofthegrandboulevardsandtheformersiteoftheghastlyguillotinesoftheFrenchRevolution.Beinginacitymostfamousforitsfood,Iworriedthatmydemonstrationonbasiccutswouldbetooremedial,butthecrowdstoodtransfixed.“I’vealwaysthoughtthatifIcouldholdaknifeproperly,itwouldchangemy

wholelife,”aSouthAfricanwomaninthecrowdcommented.“IfeellikeIjustneverreallylearned.IalwaysassumedthatI’mdoingitwrong.”Ihadfourchef’skniveswithme.Igatheredeveryoneintogroupsandtaught

Ihadfourchef’skniveswithme.Igatheredeveryoneintogroupsandtaughtthefundamentalsofholdingaknifeanddrilledthemonthebasicsofdicing,slicing,andjulienne.Simplestuff,butthenIrealizedthatI’dlearnedthesamefundamentalsonlyacoupleofyearsearlier.Asthecrowddisbanded,theSouthAfricanwomanpumpedmyhandinthanks.“Iknowthissoundstotallystupid,butIdon’tcookatallandyou’vejustinspiredmetolearn.Ithoughtthiswholeknifethingwassomuchmorecomplicated.IfeellikeI’vehadacompleteepiphany!Haveyoueverthoughtofteaching?”

CHAPTER2WhatWouldJuliaDo?

“Youhavetogiveyourselfthatdreamassignment.Nooneisgoingtogiveittoyou.”

—PennydelosSantos,photographer

HowquicklyweshiftedbackintoourregularlivesinSeattle.Still,afterthat

momentonthestage,whatwasmyregularlife?Thenotionweighedheavilyonme.Sodidmyweight.InFrance,weateasiftrainingforanOlympiceatingevent.YetIreturnedweighingafewpoundsless.SodidMike.LessthanamonthbackintheUnitedStatesIgainednearlytenpounds.How?Sure,wewalkedmoreinParis.ButwhatwasitaboutbeingbackintheStatesthatledustogainweight?TheFrencheatlessingeneralandleantowardmorefreshfoodandfew

snacks.AsinotherEuropeancities,Parisiansshopmoreoftenforgroceries.Someofitiscultural,butmostofitispractical.WhenIfirstmovedtoLondonin1999,Ihadtocompletelyshiftmythinkingaboutgroceryshoppingthankstothedorm-room-sizedfridgeinmyminusculekitchen.Icouldn’t“stockup”;Ihadnophysicalspace.Myfreezerwasonlyslightlylargerthanthesizeofapaperbacknovel.Plus,IknewthatIhadtocarryhomewithmewhateverIbought.SinceIshoppedfrequently,Ichosemostlyfreshfoodandprepareditthatnight.InParis,wedidthesamethankstotheeasilyaccessiblestreetmarkets.Evenso,IsawalotofshoppersbuyingfrozenquicheLorraineinParisiansupermarkets,nottomentionthecustomerswhoflockedtoAmerican-stylefast-foodoutlets.WhileitmightoncehavebeentruethatFrenchwomendon’tgetfat,morerecentsurveysshowthatastheFrenchadoptmoreAmerican-inspiredhabitsofeating,notablyconsuminglong-shelf-lifeproducts,their

inspiredhabitsofeating,notablyconsuminglong-shelf-lifeproducts,theirnationalweightsteadilyincreases.ContemplatingallthisnotlongafterwereturnedfromParis,Iwanderedover

tomylocalsupermarket,avastsixty-thousandsquare-footstorethat’sopentwenty-fourhoursadayintheurbanCapitolHillneighborhoodofSeattle.Whenitcomestodiversityandcartvoyeurism,it’shardtobeatthecollectionatmylocalgrocery.ThatwasthedayImetthewomanandherdaughter,theonewiththecartfull

ofboxedandfrozenultraprocessedfoodproducts.Shewasshoppinginastorewithabakery,afull-servicedeli,asushibar,alargemeatdepartmentwithtrainedbutchers,aseafoodcounterrepletewithwatertanksfeaturinglivecrabsandlobsters,plussignsbraggingthatthestorecarried129differentvarietiesofproduce,athirdofthemorganic.Withallthoseoptions,whydidsheactivelyselectmostlyfoodinboxesandcans?Westartedtalkingafterthebutcherdemonstratedhowtocutupachicken.

“WhenImakestufffromabox,italwaysturnsoutright,”sheexplained.“Ineverreallylearnedtocook.Mommadedinnerwhenwewereyoung,butbythetimeIwasinhighschool,sheworkedalot,somybrotherandIatealotoffrozendinners.”Shepickeduponeboxofpasta,thekindthatmakesasidedishinafew

minutes.“IknowthatAlfredosauceismadewithcream,butIwouldhavenoideahowtomakeit.”Ispentayearinculinaryschoollearningendlessvariationsoncreamsauce.I

explainedasimpletechnique—boilcreamuntilitreducesandthenextenditwithabitofthecloudywaterleftoverfromcookingpasta.“That’sit?Oh,wow,Ithoughtitwasalotmorecomplicated.”SheagreedthatifIwrotedowntherecipe,she’dgiveitatry.Outwentthe

nineboxes,andinwenttwopackagesofwholewheatpasta,aquartofcream,andasmallwedgeofParmesancheese—forroughlythesameamountofmoneyyetenoughtomaketwiceasmanyservings.Thisresultmadehercuriousaboutwhatelsewecouldreplacefromhercart.

BoxesofHamburgerHelperwereswappedforingredientstomakesimpleskilletdishes—onions,garlic,peppers,cannedtomatoes,andablockofCheddarcheese.Wevisitedthebulkherbsandspicesareaandstockeduponseveral,includingaCajunblend,chilipowder,mixedherbs,oregano,thyme,andredpepperflakes.Herdaughter,initiallyboredbyourconversation,tookoverfillingandlabelingtheplasticbagsofspicesandherbs.“Thisisfun,Mama,”shesaidasshesealedonebag.“Weshoulddothiseverytimeweshop.”

asshesealedonebag.“Weshoulddothiseverytimeweshop.”Realpotatoespickedoutbyherdaughter(alongwithapinkpeeler)replaced

thedehydratedvariety.Aswestoodintheproducesection,thewomanlookedaroundfeebly.“IknowthatIdon’tmakevegetablesenough,”shesaid.“I’mnotverygoodatfiguringoutwhattodowiththem.Ikindofavoidanythingthatrequiresalotofcuttingsomethingup.IseethosechefsonTVanditlookssoeasy.IguessI’mnotverygoodatit,anditalwaysfeelslikeittakesalongtime.”Weboughtafewbagsofaprecutbroccoliandcauliflowermixtureonsalethatday,abottleofoliveoil,andsomelemons.Iwrotedowninstructionsforhowtosteamandroastthevegetables,thentopthemwithsomelemonorabitofhernewherbsandspices.Icouldn’tstopthinkingaboutthatafternoon.IwascertainIhadoverwhelmed

herwithinformation.Sheseemedlikeasmartwomanandagoodmom,butwhenwetalkedaboutcooking,shewasdiscouraged,frustrated,andconvincedthatshortcutsremainedtheonlypathshehadthetimeorskilltonavigate.“Idon’tmindboxedmashedpotatoes”wasnotthesortofcommentthatcrept

intomyusualconversations.Asafoodwriter,I’dslippedintowhatIcall“thefoodiebubble,”amagicalplacewhereeveryonetalksaboutramps,1perfectlocalpeaches,andsmokedduckprosciutto.Peoplecasuallyname-dropobscurechefsanddiscusshowmanyrecipesthey’vetriedfromTheFrenchLaundryCookbook.Don’tgetmewrong:Lifeisgreatinthebubble.It’sjustthatmostpeopledon’tresidethere.Normalpeopleliveandshopinthecenteraislesofthegrocerystore,justlikethewomanImet.Thatafternoon,Idecideditwastimetoabandonthebubble.IstumbleduponaTVinterviewwithEnglishchefJamieOliverafewdayslaterinwhichhetalkedaboutwhytheUnitedKingdomhadbeengrippedbyanonsetofobesity.“Thething,Ithink,isthataspeoplestopcooking,theygetlesshealthy,yeah?Peoplearegoingbythechippie2topickupdinner,butchips3aren’tdinner.”Withoutrealizingit,Jamiegotanimated,evenupset,hisadorableEastLondonaccentgrowingevenmorepronounced.“IftherewasonethingthatIcoulddo,onethingthatIcouldchange,itwouldbetogetpeopletojustrealizethatcookingisn’tthattough.It’sawalk.”Hiswordsranginmyhead.Thewomanandhercartofboxedfood...the

ideathatcookingistoodifficult...therefrainfromthewomaninParisaboutknifeskills.Everthereporter,Istartedtoconductresearchonhowtheyallrelated.SeveralstudiesbackupJamie’sassertionsthatthelessapersoncooksrealfood,themoretheyrelyonprocessedorconveniencefoods,whetherat

realfood,themoretheyrelyonprocessedorconveniencefoods,whetherathomeorinthefast-foodline,andthemoreweight-relatedhealthproblemstheyexperience.Toalargeextent,themoreyoucook,thelessyouweigh.WhatintriguedmewasthatthewomanImetfeltthatshewascooking.To

her,openingaboxanddoingsomethingwithitwascreatingameal.Idisagree.Yetneitherofusisrightorwrong.Researcherscan’tevenseemtoagreeonthedefinitionofcooking.Whilealotoffoodwritersbemoanthelossofhomecooking,Ifoundsurprisinglylittleresearchintothematter.Sure,variousstudiesexaminedtheamountoftimepeoplespendcooking,suchasoneledbyaHarvardteamthatfoundpeoplespendabouttwenty-sevenminutesadaypreparingfood,abouthalfthetimespentinthe1960s.“There’sthisnotionthatthereissomekindofdeclineincookingandthat

peoplearen’tdoingitanymore.Butthat’snotsoclear.It’sjustthattherearesomanyotherchoicesonwhattheycandotogetfood,”saidDr.AmyTrubekoftheUniversityofVermont,afoodhistorianandresearcherwhohasspentmorethanadecadestudyinghowpeoplecook.“Peopleaspiretocookwhattheybelieveisgood,healthyfood.Butthentheyfindthefoodenvironmentverycomplex.There’salsoastrongsenseof‘timepoverty’intheAmericanculture,thissensethatyoudon’thavetime.Cookingisathingmanypeopleperceivetheydon’thavetimetodo.”Sheequateditwithgoingtothegym.“Everyoneknowsthatyoushouldexercise,sotheysaythattheywillgofivedaysaweek,butwhenitcomesdowntoit,theydon’t.”Thewomaninthesupermarketlackedconfidenceandskillwhenitcameto

cooking.Shewasn’tsurehowtoturnwholefoodsintodinner,andasaresult,shefoundherchoiceswerelimited.Butthat’stheissue.Ifyoucan’tcook,youputyourselfatthemercyofcompanieswhoseinterestsareoverwhelminglyfinancial.FrancesShort,theauthorofKitchenSecrets:TheMeaningofCookingin

EverydayLife,saysthatwhileconsumersmaywanttoeathealthyandevenactivelyseekoutthisinformation,itdoesn’thavemucheffectiftheycan’tactonit.“Adviceto,say,grillorsteamfoodcanonlybefollowedifyouknowhowtogrillorsteam,”Shortnoted.TrubektoldmethatwhatIprobablygavetothewomaninthesupermarket

wasawareness,agoodstart.“Butawarenessisnogoodunlessyouhaverepetitionassociatedwithit.That’showknowledgebecomespracticeandpracticebecomeshabit.”OnereasonthatJuliaChildmadesuchaformidableimpactwasherunique

abilitytoinspirepeopletogetofftheircouchesandgointotheirkitchens.While

viewerswatchedhermakepotageparmentier,theyoftentookacrucialstep—theymadeitthemselves.Theysearchedoutleeks,choppedpotatoes,andmaybeevencraftedtheirownchickenstock.Butsomewherealongtheline,peoplestoppedgettingoffthecouch.Cookingturnedintoaspectatorsport.WhileJuliademonstratedhowtofilletafishorwrestlethebonesoutofaroast,mostmoderncookingshowsfallintowhatindustryexpertsrefertoas“dumpandstir”showsorreality-basedcompetitionssuchasIronChef.Whilesomeviewersmayfollowalong,evenexecutivesforthenetworkadmitthattheyfocusmoreonentertainmentandlessoninstruction.“IwatchWimbledonbutithasnorelationshiptomyabilityasatennis

player,”Trubeksaid.“It’sbeautifulandaesthetic,butpracticeistheonlythingthatisgoingtohelpmybackhand.”Backinthe1960s,Juliabattledtheideathataddingsomeingredientstoabox

orheatingsomethingupsomehowconstitutedcooking.Mike’slatemother,pressedfortimewhileworkingthenightshiftasatelephoneoperatoronamilitarybase,reliedheavilyonconveniencefoods.Infact,whenwefirstmarried,hewaxedsofondaboutsomethingcalledNoodlesRomanoffthatinmydizzyhoneymoonstate,Ispentthreefulldaystryingtotrackdowneitheraboxorarecipeforit.ItturnsoutBettyCrockerceasedsellingNoodlesRomanoffinMay1994.I’msureit’sacoincidence,butthat’sthesamemonththeFDArequiredmanufacturerstoincludenutritionallabelsonfoodproducts.(IendedmyquestwhenIlearnedthatfaithfulreplicationofNoodlesRomanoffrequiredaportionofanorangeflavoringpacketfromKraftmacaroniandcheeseandcommercialpowderedmayonnaise.)Weliveinaworldwhereexpertsandthegovernmentpreachthatweshouldalleatleafygreenvegetables,butthenwe’rebombardedwithmessagesthatsugar-ladencerealsarepartofa“nutritiousbreakfast,”andcommercialspresentSubwaysandwichesastheholygrailtoweightloss.TVcookingshowhostSandraLeecheerfullysuggeststhat“gravyistoohardtomake,sojustbuyjarsofgravy”andadvisesviewerstobuyjarsofgarlicbecause“mincinggarlicjusttakestoolong.”Tobefair,Ithinkhervoiceisjustoneinacathedral-worthychorusshilling

theideathatconvenienceisthemostimportantassetwhenitcomestoeating.Nowonderwe’veforgottenthatthemostessentialthingwedoistofeedourselvesandthepeoplewecareabout.WhenIsawthestuffthewomanhadinherbasket,itstruckmeasantinourishment.Considertheingredientlistforabrand-nameboxofapastaParmesanside

dish.Thegoaloftheproduct,acompanyspokespersontoldme,istoapproximatetheflavorofpastatossedwithabitofParmesancheeseandolive

approximatetheflavorofpastatossedwithabitofParmesancheeseandoliveoil.Inordertodoit,theyusedthefollowing:refinedbleachedwheatflour,partiallyhydrogenatedpalmoil,salt,whey,reducedlactosewhey,cornsyrup,naturalflavors,palmoil,monosodiumglutamate,culturednonfatbuttermilk,Parmesancheese(cow’smilk,cheesecultures,salt,enzymes),sodiumcaseinate,4modifiedcornstarch,freeze-driedparsley,nonfatmilk,onions,spices,lacticacid,ferroussulfate,niacin,soylecithin,yellow5,yellow6lake,yellow6,thiaminmononitrate,riboflavin,folicacidThat’stwenty-seveningredients,mostlychemicals,inplaceofthreereal

items.Tomakethispalatable,it’sloadedwithcornandsomuchmonosodiumglutamate5andcholesterol-agitatingpalmoil6thattheyhadtolistallthreeatleasttwice.Allthistosimulatetheflavorofthreeingredients:pasta,oliveoil,andParmesancheese.Ibelievethateveryonehasitwithinthemtoboilpasta,addoliveoil,andgrate

alittlefreshParmesancheeseoverit.Ibelievethatanyonecanlearntochopupgarlicinlessthanaminute.Sohowdocompaniesgetconsumerstobuyaboxfilledwithchemicals,dehydratedmilk,andpastafusedwithdeeplyfatteningoilssothatitwillcooktwominutesfaster?Ortobuyproductsthatarelittlemorethandressed-upmilitaryrations?Theydothisbyconvincingpeoplethatmakingpastatossedwithsomeoliveoilandcheesefallsbeyondtheirculinarygrasp.DecadesofsavvymarketingconspiredtomakethewomanImetatthe

supermarketbelievethatasimplecreamsaucefelloutsideherabilities,andwhocouldblameher?“Asaculture,there’salackofbalancingcostasopposedtoactualvalue,”

Trubeksaid.“Wesurrenderourbestinterestsforthesakeofseemingconvenience.Byfailingtounderstandwhat’sinvolvedincertainkindsofbasicfoodpreparations,Americanconsumershavebeenduped.”AllofthisthinkingconvergedwhenIstumbledontheshowWhatNottoWearoncableTVonenight.Theimmaculatelycoiffedhostandhostesswentthroughtheweeklyguest’swardrobe,critiquedhernormalchoices,andthentutoredheronwhattowear.Thatweek,theytransformedafrumpyhousewifeintoasmartlyturned-outwomanwithachichaircutwithparticularlystrikingblondhighlights.Theyvisitedhertwomonthslatertoseeifshe’dstucktohernewlook.Shehad,plusshe’dlosther“lasttenpounds”andradiatedenthusiasm.“Youjustgaveme

apush,theconfidenceIneededtomakethechangesthatIknewIshouldmakeformyself.Ifeelproudofmyself.”Ibolteduprightonthecouch.Armedwithayellownotepad,IinterruptedMikeintheotherroomashe

workedonakitchenredesignforoneofourrentalapartments.“Ihavethiscrazyidea...”Istarted.“Oh,no.Notanotherone,”hejoked.Heputhispencildown.“Youhungry?”WetalkedasIsatonastoolwhilehemadedinner,hisspecialty,chickenand

vegetableThaicurrywithbrownrice.Igavehimtherundown.“Iwanttotrytounderstandwhatcouldmotivatepeopletocookmoreoften.I

wanttogivepeopledifferentcookinglessonsandseewhichofthethingstheylearnmightstickwiththem.”Butbeforewestarted,Itoldhim,Ineededtoeducatemyselfonwhatpeoplehadtoworkwithathomeandgetasenseofthechoicestheyhadalreadymade.SoIwouldgointohomesandlookintofridges,freezers,andcupboards—theculinaryequivalentofauditingtheirclosets.“I’llhavethemmakeadishtheyusuallymake,soIcanseehowtheycook.ThenI’llputtogethersomelessonsaroundtheskillsIthinkthey’remissing.Afterward,we’llfollowupandseehowthey’redoing.”Hepouredthecoconutmilkintothecurry.“Well,whatdoyouthink?”“Exactlywhereareyougoingtofindpeoplewillingtoletastrangercomeinto

theirhouse?”Mikeasked.“Well,Idon’tknow.Ihaven’tfiguredthatpartoutyet.Ithoughtofthisjust

now.”Thesmellsofcoconutandcurryfilledthekitchen,nowsoquietthatIcould

hearthemetalspoondingingaroundthebottomofthewokashestirred.“Ourkitchenistoosmallforlessons,”hesaid,concentratingonhisdish.

“WhataboutthecommercialkitchenyourfriendAceisusing?”“Soyouthinkit’sagoodidea?”Iasked,relieved.“Well,it’sanadmirablenotion,anyway.Youcan’tforcepeopletocook

differently.It’slikethatoldjoke,Howmanytherapistsdoesittaketochangealightbulb?”“One,”Ianswered.“Butthelightbulbhastowanttochange.”“Exactly.Ifyouapproachthisasawaytoencouragepeopleandgivethema

fewskills,maybeitcouldmotivatethem.Butrememberthateveryone’slifeisdifferentandcomplicated,andpeoplearesmartenoughtoknowiftheyarewillingtochange.”Inodded.Hehandedmeabowlofredcurrychickenandbrownrice.“Noweat.”

Aspartofmyauthorduties,IwasscheduledtobeaguestonalongrunninglocalradioshowhostedbySeattlecelebritychefsTomDouglasandThierryRautureau.I’veknownbothsincemydaysasarestaurantcriticinthe1990s.TheownerofagroupofpopularrestaurantsandanIronChefAmericawinner,Tombalancesthetitlesofculinaryiconandastutebusinessman,yetforallhissuccesshe’sremarkablydown-to-earth.ThierryremindsmeofmychefsinFrance.HestartedasaclassicapprenticeinFrenchrestaurantsatagefourteenandworkedhiswayup.HenowownstheimpeccableFrenchrestaurantsRover’sandLuc,plushostedaradiosegmentonNPRcalledWhat’sintheFridge?Listenerscalledinanddescribedingredientsintheirpantriesandrefrigerators,andhe’dcoachthemonthepossibilities.TheybothhavewontheJamesBeardawardforBestChefintheNorthwest,plusseeminglyeveryotherculinaryawardpossible.Ifthat’snotenough,they’vebothappearedonTopChef.7AsIpulledonheadphonesinthepleasant,clutteredstudio,ChefThierry

offeredmeaglassofaniceFrenchredhehadbroughtintosipduringtheshow.ItoldthemaboutthewomaninthesupermarketandwhatI’dbeenlearningabouthomecooking.TomandThierrywereintrigued.“Thisisapersonyoujustmetoutoftheblue?”Thierryasked.“Shewentalongwithyou,inthiscoldcallinthegrocerystore?”Tomasked

incredulously.IthrewinafewstatisticsthatI’dpickedup.Americanswasteaboutathirdof

thefoodtheypurchase,forinstance.ItoldthemabouttheprojectandthatIwantedtoincludesomeoftheirlisteners.“Howlongdoyouthinkitwouldtaketofindapersonwhocan’tboilanegg

andchangethemintoapersonwhocanopenupafridgedoorandfigureouthowtomakesomethingfromwhattheyfindinside?”Thierryasked.“Idon’tknow,Iguesswe’llfindout,”Isaid.Tomnoddedbehindthetangleofmicrophones.“Also,maybetheycanrealize

thatcookingcanbefun,andagoodwaytospendyourtime.”Thenwetookacall.“Iusedtolistentotheseradioshowsandtheold-time

commercialswerethrownin,”thecallersaid.“Iremembertherewasoneforwhattomakewithevaporatedmilk.Thatwomanmusthaverattledoffvariousrecipesinaminuteorso.Itstruckmethatnoonecouldunderstandthoserecipestoday.Noonewouldevenunderstandthevocabulary.We’vemovedintoaplace

today.Noonewouldevenunderstandthevocabulary.We’vemovedintoaplacewherepeopledon’tunderstandbasicsofcookingandfood.”Tomthankedthecaller.Thenhelookedatme.“Howdoyouplantoaddress

thislackofknowledge?”“That’saninterestingpoint,”Isaid.“Youknow,recipewritersdon’tuse

certainwordsanymore,likebraise.Instead,theywrite,‘Coverandsimmerintheoven,’becausepeopledon’tknowwhatbraisemeans.There’salossoflanguagespecifictothekitchen,andit’sevaporatedjustlikethatmilk.”“Butit’snotjustbraise,”Tomsaid.“Imean,peopleareuncomfortablewith

theideaofapinchofsalt.What’sapinch?”Wetalkedaboutthedemiseofhomeeconomicsinpublicschoolsandthe

notionthatmanyAmericansaretwogenerationsawayfromknowinghowtocook.“IthinkyoucantracealotofthoseskillsbacktoMadisonAvenueandthead

agencies,”Tomsaid.“They’retheoneswhosoldustheideathatyoudidn’tneedtocook,youcouldsimplybuyproductsinstead.”Helookedattheclockonthewall.“Well,thanksforcomingontheshow.I’mexcitedtoseehowitgoes.Andyouknowwhat?Inafunnyway,I’minterestedtoseewhatyougetoutofit.”WhenIgothomefromtheshow,Ifoundtwodozenmessageswaitinginmy

e-mailinbox.Morestreamedinovertheweekend.AsIreadthroughthem,Irealizedthattheconversationontheairhad

appearedtotouchanerve.Iglimpsedmomentsofguilt,embarrassment,anddownrightmelancholy.“WhenIwasnineteen,Iwasaskedtomakethesaladatmyboyfriend’s

parents’forThanksgiving.Ididn’tknowwheretostart,andtheyallmadefunofme.Itmademeneverwanttotrytocookanythingeveragain,”wroteonewoman.“Irelyonboxedproductsbecauseit’seasy,butIdon’twantto.IhaveNO

ideahowtobutcheranything.Ican’tfilletafish,cutupachicken,etc.WhenIlookatanartichoke...well,Ijustwalkrightonby,”wroteCheryl,athirty-three-year-oldmotheroftwoyoungsons.“I’dliketolearnhowtomake‘real’food,morefoodfromscratchandwhatIhaveonhand,ratherthanpullingoutafrozenpizzaformyfamily.”“Mymotherneverletmeinthekitchen;shethoughtIwasintheway,”wrote

Shannon,thirty-two,alsoamotheroftwo.“WhenIreadaboutlittlegirlscookingsidebysidewiththeirmothers...itmakesmesosadforwhatImissed.”Anotherwrote,“Igrewupwithagrandmotherthatcouldmakeamealoutof

nothingandmakeittasteasgoodasanyfive-starmenu.I’velivedforyearsonfrozendinnersandanythingthatiseasyorfast.”Sheconsideredherself“addicted”tocookingshows.Shewatchedthemall—TopChef,IronChef,TheNextFoodNetworkStar,AltonBrown,Giada,Emeril.“ButthenIamtotallylostwhenitcomestoknowingwhattodowhenItrytofixanything.I’vewatchedGordonRamseywhileeatingTunaHelper.I’msoashamed.”Intheend,IselectedtenpeopleforwhatIbegantorefertosimplyas“The

Project.”8Theysharedlittleincommonintermsofbackground,exceptthattheyallidentifiedthemselvesasa“poorcook”oran“aspiringcook”whoreliedregularlyonprocessedorfastfoods.Itoldthemlittleaboutwhattoexpect,otherthanafewdatesandtimes.Iwasn’ttryingtobemysterious.Ididn’treallyhaveaplan.Inretrospect,I’mnotsurewhatIwasthinking.I’mnotanacademictypeora

researcher;Ihadtaughtonlyacoupleofinformalcookingclasses.MythoughtsonwhatlessonsI’dteachweremurky.IwouldhavetomakeitallupasIwentalong.Thefirststopwasagenericapartmentbuildingintherusticformerlogging

townofGraniteFalls,Washington.Afterthreehours,IclimbedbackintoourMiniCooperandleanedmyheadagainstthesteeringwheel.“WhatdidIgetmyselfinto?”

CHAPTER3

TheSecretLanguageofKitchens

LESSONHIGHLIGHTS:WhatReallyLurksinCupboards,Fridges,andFreezers

SABRA

“ThisiswhatyoucallWhiteTrashGarlicBread,”announcedSabra,alovely,fair-hairedtwenty-three-year-oldyoungwomancladinaskin-tightblueshirtandstrategicallyrippedjeans.“ThisisoneofthefewthingsthatIlearnedaboutcookingfrommymother.”Sheslatheredone-halfofasofthamburgerbunwithGold’nSoftmargarine,addedafewheartyshakesofgenericgarlicsalt,andtoppeditwithdriedParmesancheesefromacan.Afterrepeatingtheprocesswithahalfdozenbuns,sheslidthebakingsheetintoherimmaculatewhiteoven.SabrawasthefirstvolunteerImet.Shesharedanapartmentinabasicbut

pleasantcomplexwithherboyfriendinasleepyformerlumbertownanhournorthofSeattle.Herstandard-issuekitchenwassmallbuttidy.Inthelivingroom,atinykittenshehadrescuedthedaybeforetookhaltingstepsontheblackleathersectional,heroccasionalmewingcompetingwiththebigflat-screenTVtunedtoapokertournamentthatSabrawasn’twatching.Whilethebunslingeredunderthebroiler,Sabraalternatedbetweensipsof

RedBullandpeachschnappsmixedtogetherinanorangeplastictumblerwhilewaxingpoeticaboutherfavoritefood.“IloveGold’nSoft,”shesaid,holdingupthehalf-fullone-poundplastictubofmargarine.“IfithadGold’nSoftinit,that’swhatmymotherandIategrowingup.NowprettymucheverythingIeathasGold’nSoftinit.Anythingelse,especiallybutter,justdoesn’ttasteright.”The“garlicbread,”combinedwithStouffer’sfive-cheeselasagna,straight

fromthirteenminutesinthemicrowave,constitutedherlunch.Asthemicrowavecounteddown,sheandIfinishedtheinventoryofhercabinets,freezer,andfridge.Amongthegoods:ninevarietiesofStouffer’sfrozendinners,sixboxesofHamburgerHelper,afive-packofmacandcheese,halfacaseofCupNoodles,andtheremainderofacaseofRedBull,allofitfromarecentwarehouse-storehaul.Sabraandherboyfrienddedicatedtherestofthepantrytoanimpressiveliquorassortmentthatfeaturedthirty-eightbottles,everythingfrombitterstovodkaandfivevarietiesofschnapps.Inthefridge,newlypurchasedbundlesofbroccoliandcauliflowerfilledthe

crisperdrawerstocapacity,achangeforher.Arecentpaptestfoundprecancerouscells,curablebutaworryingsignthatsheinheritedafamilialpropensityforcancer.AdoctorsuggestedSabraoverhaulherdiettoincludemorefruitsandvegetables.“Wefoundafruitstandnearhere,andit’scheap.Wegotthreepoundsofcauliflowerforthreedollars,”shesaid.“Icouldn’tget

gotthreepoundsofcauliflowerforthreedollars,”shesaid.“Icouldn’tgetCheetosthatcheap.”Sabrawasnominatedfortheprojectbyherstepmother,myfriendLisa,a

culinaryschoolgraduate,apart-timechef,andthekindofwomanwhoroutinelymakesherownmayonnaise.Backin2006,Idecidedtohiresomeonetohelptestrecipesformyfirstbook.IputanadonCraigslistdescribingappallingpayanderratichours.Withintwenty-fourhours,eighty-fivepeoplehadapplied.Manysentrésumésandlongpleasfortheposition.LisahadassumedthatIwasamanandrespondedwithasnarky“Isthisadreamjoborareyoulookingforadate?”Whenwemet,theintense,brinysmellofcheeseprecededher.Shewalkedintomyofficeandhandedmeabag.“Mymomownsacheeseshop.Ifyouhireme,there’smorewherethiscamefrom.”Lisaquicklybecameoneofmybestfriends.Shetestedrecipes,helpedme

organizevariousevents,andMikeinsistedsheplayClintonKellyfromWhatNottoWearwhenIwentshoppingforclothestowearonbooktours.(“Youwantjeweltones,nopencilskirts,andatleasttwopairsofSpanx.”)WhenItoldherabouttheprojectshesaid,“Thatsoundslikeatonofwork.Ifyou’rereallygoingtodoit,I’mallin.”Overtheyearsasweworkedtogether,Lisarelayedstoriesoffrustrationin

termsoffoodasitrelatedtoherrelationshipwithSabra.Whenshemarriedherhusbandinherearlytwenties,hehadprimarycustodyofSabra,thensixyearsold.WhenSabrawasachild,Lisawouldmakedinner,suchasroastchickenwithvegetablesandasalad.Sabrawouldsitbackinherchairwithherlittlearmscrossedoverherchestandrefusetotouchit.Afterrejectingdinner,Sabrawouldrunfromthetabletocallhermother,wholivedlessthanamileaway.LisawouldoverhearthelitanyofcomplaintsaboutthefareSabrasaidshe’dbeenserved.Invariably,they’dhearahonkfromthedrivewayminuteslater—itwasSabra’smother,theretotakehertoMcDonald’s.Afteracoupleofyearsofthis,Lisaboughtacaseoframennoodles.IfSabra

didn’twantwhatshemadefordinner,fine.ButnomoreMcDonald’s,notfordinner.Sabracouldeatrameninstead,whichsheliked,butshehadtomakeitherself.Afterfournightsofnoodles,Sabrastartedeatingdinnerwiththemagain.IaskedSabraaboutallofthis,andshenodded,takinganotherlongpullonher

drink.“Oh,yeah,IloveMcDonald’s.WhenIwasakid,that’showmyparentsshowedmetheylovedmeaftertheyweredivorced.WhotookmetoMcDonald’sthemost?That’swholovedmethemost.”IponderedthisasSabracheckedonhergarlicbread.Howmuchofthiswas

IponderedthisasSabracheckedonhergarlicbread.Howmuchofthiswasaboutthefood?OrdidthattriptoMcDonald’smeantimealonewithherparent,forcedtofocusonlyonherassheswung,slid,andranaroundthecolorfulplayarea?Aspartofthekitchenvisit,Iaskedeachvolunteertopreparealunchor

dinner,somethingthattheyroutinelyate,soIcouldgetasenseoftheirkitchenskillsandeatinghabits.Couldtheyholdaknife?Didtheytasteastheycooked?Whatkindofportionsdidtheyserveup?FrozendinnerswereSabra’sgo-todinners.BreakfastinvolvedtoasterpastriesandhalfacanofRedBull.“That’sbecauseIdon’tdrinkcoffee,”sheexplained.TheCupNoodleswashermidmorningsnack.ShehitMcDonald’sforlunch.Throughouttheday,sheconsumedafewsoftdrinks.“Andthere’stheconstantgrazingonalotofchipsandpopcorn.There’salwaysabowlofsomethingonmydesk,”sheadded.RedBullforbreakfastisn’tasunusualasyou’dthinkforsomeoneherage.It

hasroughly70percentoftheenergy-drinkmarket,anarrowbutinfluentialwedgeofconsumersbetweenagesfifteenandthirty.Atagesixteen,Mike’sniece,Michelle,livedprimarilyonvariousenergydrinksforthreemonths.Thecaffeinegaveherenergy,whilethehighsugarcontent—roughlyequivalenttoaglazeddoughnut—keptherfromfeelinghungry.Shedrankseveraleveryday.Herdoctorcommandedhertoquit.“You’renotgettinganynutrients,”hesaid.“You’restarvingyourself.”Sabraofferedsomebrightspots.Theguyatherliquorstoreintroducedherto

awomanwhosuppliedfresheggsfromanearbyfarm.Asadownside,Sabrawarnedmethatshedidn’twanttospendmorethantwentyminutesmakingdinner.“Ifittakeslongerthanthat,I’lljustgetfastfood.”Plus,therewasherdevotiontoGold’nSoft.Wesatdownforlunch.Tome,thelasagnahadavaguelysweettomatoflavor.

The“garlicbread”wasanexerciseinblandness.Iaskedherhowshelikedthelasagna.“Well,thisbrandhasreallygooddeals,like,youcangetfourfortenbuckssometimes,”shestarted.“No,whatImeanis,doyoulikeitstaste?Theflavor,Imean.”Shethoughtaboutit.“Idon’tknow.Ilikeitbetterthansomeoftheother

frozenlasagnas.”“Buthowdoesitcomparetohomemadelasagna?”Shetiltedherheadtooneside.“Idon’tknow.I’veneverthoughtaboutit.I

likeit,butImainlybuyitbecauseit’scheaperthantheotherones.”Later,Icalculatedthatoverthecourseofatypicalday,Sabraconsumedacup

andahalfofsugar.Sabra’sfoodchoicesweremotivatedbymoney,ease,andthatrefreshinglive-forevermentalitythatgripssomanyofusinourtwenties.

thatrefreshinglive-forevermentalitythatgripssomanyofusinourtwenties.Whohastoworryabouttheirdietwhenthey’resoyoung?Isn’tyouthenoughtoovercomeahigh-sugar,high-fat,high-saltdiet?Sherepresentedthedarksideof“tastememory”thatcomesfromtheearlyadoptionofunhealthyfoodssuchasfastfoods.Everyonehastheircomfortfood,thatflavorthatharkensbacktoatimeinchildhoodthattheyfeltsafeandloved.ThisexplainedherfondnessforGold’nSoftandMcDonald’s.Butitwasclearthatsheputmorethoughtintocreatingcocktailsthanintodevelopingdinner.

TRISH

Ournextstopofferedinsightintoawholedifferentgeneration.Trishwasasixty-one-year-oldpsychologistlivinginamodestcondoontheedgeoftheaffluentMadisonParkneighborhood.ShefrettedwhenMikeandIshowedupwithasmallvideocamerainhandtorecordtheproceedings.“I’msurethatI’mgoingtobedoingeverythingwrong,”shesaid,atingeof

defeatinhervoice.Sheliterallywrungherhands.Mikekeptthecameralow,outofherface,andjokedwithhertokeephertalkingasshegaveusatourofhercomfortablymodernapartmentdominatedbyobviouslyinheritedantiquefurniture,darkyetluminouswithapatinadevelopedthroughmanydecadesofcarefulpolishing.Trishwantedtofeellikeshebelongedinthekitchen.“Iwanttofeelatease.IwanttofeellikeIcanmakemealsformyfriendswhoaregoodcooks.”Shepoundedherfistintoherpalm.“Iwanttolikecooking!”TrishgrewupoutsideWashington,D.C.,inwhatshedescribesasa“fairly

typical”1950ssuburbanfamily.Hergrandmotherplayedanimportantroleintheirlives.ShetaughtTrishandhersiblingstobake,read“old-fashioned”cookbooks,andlentaformalbutfriendlynotetothefamilydinnersandconversations.InTrish’shouse,dinnerwasservedatsixo’clocksharponatablesetwithsilverandchina.Despitehergrandmother’sbakingprowess,hermotherwasn’tmuchofacook;shereliedonTheCompleatIHatetoCookBook.Dinnersstarredameat,supportedbysomekindofpotatoandatleastonecannedorfrozenvegetablecookedtothepointofgray.Hermother’sstarturnwasfriedchicken.“Iremembersometrulyawfulstuff,suchasspaghettisaucemadefrom

tomatosoup!”Trishsaid,laughing.“IguessIwaskindofapickyeater.Ilovedthemahoganyfurniture,thechandelier,thesilverandchina,butInevercaredabouteating.”Trish’scabinetsandfridgeofferedastrikingcontrasttoSabra’s,withbaking

supplies,cansofbeans,tomatoes,tuna,salmon,andchicken,boxesoforganicsoupandbroth,jarsofpastasauce,salsa,pickles,jams,saladdressings,andartichokes,oilsandvinegars,drypasta,spicesandherbs.“Forameal,weusuallyopenacan,abox,orajar,”shesaid.Butmostofitwasrealfood,justpreserved.ShehadthesamekindsofstuffinhercupboardthatIhadinmineathome.Sheclimbedonastoolandpulleddownthreeflatsilverboxes.Assheopened

Sheclimbedonastoolandpulleddownthreeflatsilverboxes.Assheopenedone,astrongsmellofcurrymingledwithcinnamonescaped.Insideshekeptcarefullymarkedsmallflatdisksfilledwithspicesanddriedherbs.“Igotthesestoragethingssomewhereyearsago,”shesaid.Sheshruggedwhilelookingatthem.“IwishthatIknewhowtouseallthesespicesbetter.”Sheclosedtheboxandputitbackupontheshelf.“IguessIcancook,butI’mnotverypleasedwiththeresults.I’venever

learnedtocutorchopthingsproperly.LotsoftimesItryanewrecipebuttheresultsaredisappointing.It’shardtogetenthusiasticaboutcookingamealthat’sgoingtotakemorethanthirtyminutestomakeanditdoesn’tusuallyturnoutwell.”WhenIaskedaboutrecipes,Trishtookusovertoherwell-orderedbookcase.

Shepulledoutvolumeaftervolumeofexcruciatinglyorganizedrecipes,categorizedandneatlymaintainedinaseriesofwhitebinders,anothermarveloforganization.Igazedinwonder.Aprotectiveplasticsheathhousedeachclipping.AsaGeminiandacreativetypewhocanbarelykeeptrackofbills,Icouldneverimaginehavingdonesuchathing.Shepulledoutabinderlabeled“Entrees.”Sheflippedthroughit.“Yeah,this

turnedoutsortofbland.Andthisone,Ididsomethingwrong,thechickenwastough.”Sheflippedafewmorepages.“Oh,thisone,itcameoutallright.Iwaskindofsurprised.”AsIlookedthroughtherecipesshe’dclippedfrommagazines,Irecognized

thenamesofacoupleoffoodwriterfriends,includingthedishshereferredtoasbland.Ilatertalkedtotheauthoraboutit.“Oh,Iknowtherecipeshe’stalkingabout,”shesaidwithasigh.“Iwasonlyallowedtoincludesixingredientsinthelist.SoIcutoutatleastfourfrommyoriginalversion.Plus,Ihadfreshbasilinthedish,andthatreallymadeitwork.ButmystorygotbumpedfromAugusttoNovember,andsincebasilisn’tseasonalthen,thefoodeditorcutthebasil.It’sfunny,homecooksthinkrecipesturnoutblandbecauseit’stheirfault.Therealityisthatthereissomuchpressuretomakerecipesshortthatfoodwritershavetocutoutstepsoringredientstomakethemlooksimpler,or,inthecaseofthebasil,lessexpensive.”Forlunch,Trishmaderatatouille.Shechoppedaneggplantinacurious

momentofbutcherywithabluntparingknife.“Knifeskills,”Iwroteonmynotepad.Nextsheopenedacoupleofcansoftomatoes.Asitcooked,shetalked.Mikekeptfilmingherdiscreetly.Sheandherhusbandavoidedfastfood,redmeat,andporkforhealthreasons.TraderJoe’swastheirmainstopforgroceries.“Wedon’thaveabudgetforfood,but,then,wedon’thaveextravaganttastes

“Wedon’thaveabudgetforfood,but,then,wedon’thaveextravaganttasteseither.We’recomingclosetoretirementage,and,likemosteveryoneelse,thereislessmoneynow.”Shebroiledtheoccasionalfishfilletinthetoasterovenorbakedsweetpotatoes.Herhusbandmadethenightlysalad.Sheboughtalotofbottledsaladdressings.Imadeanothernoteonmypad:“Teachvinaigrette.”“Intermsofseasonings,they’rebasic.Isprinklealittlebalsamicvinegaron

greenvegetables,lemononthefish,andbutterandsaltonpotatoes.That’swhatIknowhowtodo.”Aswesatdownforlunch,shefussed,settingthetablewithexpensiveantique

dishes,embroideredwhiteclothnapkins,andrealsilver.Herratatouillewasgood,justalittleundersalted,whichmadesenseasTrishseemedabsolutelyterrifiedofsalt.Allthismademecuriousastohowasmart,organizedwomanwhopossessed

thebasicbuildingblocksofcookinghadendedupsotentative.Whenaskedaquestion,she’dinvariablyanswer,“Idon’tknow,isthatright?”Yetshe’sapsychologist,aprofessionalpaidforthoughtfulcommentaryandinsightintoothers’lives.ShehadsomuchemotionalbaggagewrappedupincookingthatIkeptstiflingmyurgetosay,“AndTrish,howdoesthatmakeyoufeel?”

SHANNON

Thenextday,LisaandIpulleduptoaclassic1960s-eraranchhousewithawhitepicketfenceinaquietworking-classneighborhood.Toysinvariousstatesofrepairlanguishedontorn-upsodinthefrontyard.Shannonwasathirty-two-year-oldstay-at-homemomwithtwokids.Shehadrecentlypurchasedacoupleofchickenstokeepinherbackyardandgrewasmallpatchofvegetables.ShannonsubscribedtofoodmagazinesandcombedInternetsitesforrecipes.Noneofitmadeherfeelwhatshecalled“kitchenconfident.”Hermotheransweredthedoor.“Idon’tknowwhatyou’regoingtoteachher,”

shesaiddismissivelytoLisaandme,turningawayassoonasweentered.“Sheburnseverything.”Shannonappearedbehindher,atrim,prettybrunettewithaneasysmileandapixiehaircut,aleanbabygirlbalancedonherhip.Visiblyirritatedbyhermother’sremark,sheletitpass.Shannonhandedherthebabyandtookusintoherkitchen,alargesunnyspacewithpaleFormicacountertopsandaclassicsuiteofnondescriptwhiteappliances.Shekeptarowofcookbooksononeshelf,somethingofararityinthekitchenswevisited.Shannonhasaneasygoingwayabouther,occasionallypunctuatingsentences

withflingingarmsorwide-eyedexpressionsoracuriousrolling-winkingofoneeye,anendearingtic.“I’ddescribemycookingskillsasprettybasic,”shestarted.“Icanbakeprettywellbutcookinghasalwayskindofescapedme.Icanreadarecipeandfollowit,butmoststuffturnsoutprettybland.Imakealotofcasserole-typedishes,whicharen’tverypopularinmyhouse.”Cueeye-rollingtic.UnliketheothercooksIwouldmeetintheproject,Shannondidtrytoplan

mealsbeforeshehitagrocerystore.“MyproblemiswhenI’mmakingupthemenufortheweek.Ijustrunoutofideasandendupcheatingbyfillinguptwodayswithburritosandspaghetti.”By“spaghetti”shemeantajarofsauce.“Oh,yeah,that’sit.I’venevermadeitfromscratch.Sauces,thatkindofthing,it’salljustkindofbeyondme.Ibuythoseorgetaseasoningpacket.”Otherwise,amealtoherincludedameat-plus-veggie-plus-starch

combination.“I’mnotverygoodatcookingmeat.I’mscaredtodeathofuncookedchickensoit’susuallysuperoverdone.”Porkchopsareprettyeasy,shesaid,butsheusuallydidthesameseasoningeverysingletime,amixofsalt,garlicpowder,andpepper.“Itrytofitinfishonceaweek,butitisalwaysaboringnightbecauseIreallydon’tknowwhattodowithfish.”

boringnightbecauseIreallydon’tknowwhattodowithfish.”Shebudgetedaboutsevenhundreddollarsamonthforgroceriesandmeals

out.Giventhey’reafamilyoffive,restauranttripswereararity.Herbigsplurgewasasushiplacenearherhouse.“Atthebeginningofthemonth,thingsaregood.Bytheend,themealsgetincreasinglybasicasItrytosticktothebudget.”Iaskedabouthermother’sremark.“Oh,mymom.”Hercheeksflushed,a

winceflashedacrossherface.“Mymotherstartedeverysinglemealwithacanofsoup.Shecookedbutsheneverreallywantedmeinthekitchen,soIdidn’tlearnmuch.Iwanttoteachmykidstocookwhenthey’reolder,butsinceIdon’treallyfeellikeIknowwhatI’mdoing,whatamIgoingtopasson?”Shannonwouldoccasionallymakevariationsonthestuffhermotherhadservedher,suchasParmesanchicken,sweetandsourbeefwitheggnoodles,andtunacasserole,eventhoughshenowconsideredit“oldladyfood.”“Iamsointerestedincooking,butIfinditfrustrating.Ican’tlookatarecipe

andconceptualizehowitwilltaste.Ican’tfigureoutwhatisnecessaryinarecipeandwhatcanbeleftout.IwishthatIwereoneofthosepeoplewhocouldlookatmycupboardsandmyfridgeandjustimprovisesomething.OrgotoarestaurantandeatsomethingIlikeandthenreplicateitathome.Idon’tfeellikeIhavetheskillstodothat,youknow?”Shannonhadthedesire,motivation,andtimetocookbutfeltshelackedthe

corecompetencies.Likesomanypeople,shedidn’tlearntocookfromhermother,nordidshelearnanycookingskillsinschool.Bycontrast,womenofhermother’sgenerationhadmultipleopportunitiestolearn—fromtheirownmothersandinhighschoolbackinthedayswhenhomeeconomicsenjoyedamorerobustplaceinthecurriculum.Shestruckmeassimilartoafrustratedaspiringmusicianwhojustwantedtogetthescalesdownsothatonedayshecouldriff.

DRI

“Welcometothehood,”Drisaid,spreadingherarmswideinawelcomeaswewalkeduptheneatpathtoherwell-tendedapartmentbuildinginthecity’sCentralDistrict.Intheory,thisisthe“rough”partoftown,butinrecentyearsmuchofithasbeenundergoingseriousgentrification.Whenthere’saStarbucksonanearbycorner,it’stoughtothinkyou’reinaghetto,eveninSeattle.Vivaciousandgood-natured,Drihadtheairofanervouscomicabouther.

Shekeptasmilefixedonherfaceforalmosttheentirevisit.Driplannedtomovesoonintoacondoshehadboughtinanotherpartoftown.“Good-bye,eight-by-six-footkitchen!”Driwasdressedentirelyinblack,possiblyanefforttohidetheextrafifty-plus

poundsshecarriedonhertall,sturdyframe.Shehadrecentlystartedhittingthegym.“Butthewholefoodpieceisjustkindofmissing,”shetoldLisaandmeasshestartedtoemptythecontentsofhercupboard.Herkitchenwassosmall,onlyshecouldfitinit;Istoodinthedoorwayandwatched.ShewasasdelightedasakidatChristmasbythefirstthingshedugout—a

cakedpacketofspices.“Oh,here’sthemagicherbmixthattheygaveme[atthefoodco-op]tomakepotroastonetime.Once.Ionlydiditonce.Howsad.”Shedroppeditdramaticallyonthecounter.Dripulleddownagingjarsofpaprikaandcurry,abulkjarofpeppercorns,catering-sizedjugsofoliveoilandbalsamicvinegar.“EverytimeImakearealmealIseemtobuynewspices.Iusuallybuytheminbulk,so,hello”—shepulleddownanotherquartcontainer.“GiveaheartyDri’sKitchen–stylewelcometoanotherstupidlylargecontainerofcinnamon!”Althoughshelivedalone,Driboughtalotofherfoodatawarehousestore.

It’sahabitsheadoptedfromgrowingupinafamilywithsevenkids.Herkitchenseemedsosmallyetfoodkeptcomingoutofthecupboardslikeclownsfromacircuscar.Atonepoint,sheproducedindustrial-sizedboxesfilledwithgranolabarsandinstantoatmeal.“Forbreakfast,”shesaid.“Oh,here’sfivepoundsofcheapnot-very-good-for-the-worldkindofrice.”Dridescribedher“viciouscircle,”onethatwilllikelyresonatewithalotof

people.“Okay,soIgotothegrocerystoreandIhaveallthesegreatintentions.I

think,Okay,I’mgoingtomakemyluncheverydaythisweek!IseeallthesegreatgreensandIstockuponthem.Butthenit’slatewhenIgethome,I’m

greatgreensandIstockuponthem.Butthenit’slatewhenIgethome,I’mtired.IpromisemyselfthatI’lleatthemthenextday.Bythen,I’mbackinmyroutinethatdoesn’tinvolvealotoffoodpreparation.”Eventually,shefindsabig,wilted,greenstainatthebottomofthedrawer.“SoIthrowawayaLOToffood.It’stragichowmuchIwaste.”Astatementshefollowedupbynotingthatshehasadegreeinenvironmentalstudies;shenowworksinurbanplanning.“Itrytobuyorganicbecausesustainabilityisimportanttome,asalifechoice.”Herfridgewasnearlyempty.Isuspectedthatshe’dcleaneditoutformyvisit,

butsheinsistedthatwasn’tit;shewasgoingoutoftownthenextday.Onfirstinspection,itappearedimmaculatesaveafeworganiccondiments,ahalfdozeneggs,andasolitarygreenpepper.Inadairydrawer,shehadtheremnantsofalargepackageoffetacheese.She

sniffed.“Ewww.Okay,thischeeseisprobablybad.That’stheproblemwithbulk,right?It’scheapertogetabigthingthanitistobuyasmalloneattheco-op.SoIgetit,eatpartofit,andthentherestgoesbad.”Sheclosedthefridgedoorandshookherhead.Foramoment,herpermanentsmilefaded.“Itmakesmefeelterrible.”“Hey,youknow,foodwasteisreallycommon,”Isaid.“Theysaythatpeople

wasteathirdofwhattheybringhome.”Dripulledhermouthtooneside.“It’snotverysustainablebehavior,isit?”

shesaidflatly.Shespentaquietmomentinself-judgment.Thenshebrightened.“Wanttoseethefreezer?”Shepointedoutartichokeheartspurchasedmonthsagoforarecipethatshe

nevermade.“I’mnotsurewhattodowiththemnow,”shemused.Shehadorganichamburgeraswellasindividualchickenbreastswrappedinplasticsleevesandseveralbagsofrandomfoodthatshedidn’trecognize.Aswithotherpeoplewevisited,thefreezeroftenbecameTheLandofFoodThatTimeForgot.“IlikeleftoversforonedaybutIdon’twantthemondaytwo.SoIthink,I’llfreezethem.AndthentheyjustsitinthereuntilImoveorthenextmillenniumrollsaround.”Wemovedontoacupboardfeaturingwhatshereferredtoashermeager

bakingsupplyarea.“IbakesoinfrequentlythatIforgetthatIhavestuffandbuyitagain.”Asiftoproveherpoint,sheuncoveredfifteenpoundsofwhitesugar.Fordinner,shedecidedtomakeastaplemeal:spaghettiwithajaroftomato

sauce.That’swhatsheateatleastacoupleofnightseachweek.Asshewaitedforthewatertoboil,sheexplainedthatwhilegrowingup,hermom’scookingrepertoirehadreliedheavilyonpotroastandtacosalad.“WeateaLOToftacosalad,”Drisaid.“Weoftenhadfend-for-yourselfkindsofnights.Dadwasa

salad,”Drisaid.“Weoftenhadfend-for-yourselfkindsofnights.Dadwasacontractor,sowehadveryirregularhours.”Itwasn’tuntilshemovedawayfromhomethatDrirealizedhermother’sfood

was,well,boring.“Ifshewentcrazy,sheusedabitofLawry’sseasoningsalt.Shedoesn’tbelieveingarlic,whichInowbelieveiscriticaltolife.Dependingonwhereourfamilywasfinancially,shewouldusestufflikepowderedmilk.Iremembertherewouldbetimeswhenshecannedfruitandcookedmuchmorefromscratch.Buttherewerealotoffrozenthingsinourlives.”Driputthepastaintoabowl,aportionlargeenoughforatleastthreepeople.

“Youknow,Ifallbackonpastabecause,well,itdoesn’ttakelong,Ican’tscrewitup,andIdon’thavetoplanforit.ButIwanttohavemoreoptions.IwanttofeellikeI’manadultwhocanfeedherself.SometimesIstillfeellikeakidinthekitchen;I’mjustnotsurewhatI’mdoing.Imean,whatamIgoingtodowiththoseartichokeheartsinmyfreezer?”Tome,Drirepresentedsomeonewhowasrelyingonoldbehaviors(shopping

atawarehousestorewhenshelivedalone)andcouldn’tsticktonewonesthatshewantedtoadopt(eatingmorevegetables,cookingmoreoften).There’snothingwrongwitheither,buthowcouldshefindstrategiestodobothandstillfitinwithherpersonalphilosophiesaroundsustainablefood?Iwondered.

JODI

AcuteJapaneseAmericanwithaquicklaughandadimpledsmile,Jodilivedinacomfortablesplit-entryhouseonaquietsuburbanculdesac.HerhousewasamongthemoreupscaleIvisited,withexpensiveoverstuffedfurnitureandakitchenequippedwithmarblecountertopsandstainlesssteelappliances.Atfivefeettwoinches,sheweighedabout135pounds.“Icouldprobablystandtolosefifteenortwentypounds,”sheadmitted.“It’sfunny,inAmerica,Ilookprettynormal.ButIwenttoJapantovisitmyrelativesrecently.Theyallsay”—shedidafairlypatheticJapaneseaccenthere—“‘Yousofat!Youjustsooooofaaaat!’”Theytookhershoppingandnothingfit.Theshopkeeperslookedatherandshooktheirheads.“Shetoofat.”Jodipurposelyneverlearnedtocook.“Mymotherhasspentherlifebasically

beingmyfather’sslave.It’spartofAsianculture.SoIfiguredthatifIcouldn’tcook,thenIcouldn’tbeforcedintothatrole.”Jodigrewupwithwildlyconflictingmaternaladvice.Theexpectationcyclewentsomethinglikethis:Studyhard,getgoodgrades,getagoodjob,thengetmarried.Wait,nowyou’remarried,whyareyoustillworking?Mygrandsonisindaycare?You’reahorriblemother!Youshouldquityourjob.Jodimarriedagood-looking,strikinglytallThaiAmericanmanwithaflair

forcooking.Fromtheverystartoftheirrelationship,hecookedmostoftheirweekendmealsanddinneronceaweek.Therestofthetime,theyateoutororderedtakeout,anarrangementthatsatisfiedthemboth—untilshewaslaidofffromherjobwithahigh-techfirm.Suddenly,theyhadhalftheincome,plusafussythree-year-oldwhorefusedtoeatmuchofanything.Newlyunemployed,tightforcash,andathomeallday,shefeltthattheleastshecoulddowastocookherhusbanddinnerandfeedherkid.Theyhadlongshoppedatwarehousestoresforfood,wherethesavingsheldhugeappeal.Asaresult,theyboughtasecondfridgefortheirgarage.“Allthisfoodtakesupsomuchspace!”shelamented,asfooditemsfelloutof

herfreezerwhensheopenedthedoor.Wepulleditallout:averticalstackoftwenty-plusbreadedchickencutlets,steaksofmultipleshapesandsizes,avacuum-packedwholebeeftenderloin,dozensofindividuallywrappedbonelesschickenbreasts,andcatering-sizedbagsoffrozenvegetables.Acloserinspectiontoldaninterestingtale.Thispenchantforbulkbuyingwas

notanewhabit;afewsteakswerefouryearsold,andthechickenbreastshada

notanewhabit;afewsteakswerefouryearsold,andthechickenbreastshadasell-bydateoftwoyearsprior.Asshedugfarther,shefoundwholesalmonfilletsandribsboughtforacampingtripthreeyearsearlier.“Oh,wow,Iforgotwehadthese!”Jodiandherhusbandinfrequentlymadeanythingfromthefreezer,yetthey

keptbuyingfoodtoputintoit.Onlytwoitemshadagoodrotation:fishsticksandbreadedchickencutlets,bothitemshersonwouldeat,andshecouldcookthemeasilyonatrayintheoven.Theirfridgewassimilarlypacked.Theypurchasedmostcondimentsinindustrial-sizedjars.Themayonnaiseinaheartygallonjughadasell-bydateofayearearlier.“Ihatetothrowitout,though,there’ssomuchleft.Iguesswedon’treallyeatthatmuchmayonnaise.”Thecrisperdrawerhadthreebrowningheadsoficeberglettuce.“Oh,Ihateit

whenthishappens,”shesaid.“Wealwaysthrowoutlettuce.It’shardtogothroughit.Theycomefivetoapackwhereweshop.”Thensheledustothepantry,aclosetlargerthanthekitchenofeitherDriorSabra,andwefounditstuffedfloortoceilingwithenoughboxesandcanstolastthroughthestartofanuclearwinter:casesofsoup,cannedvegetables,boxedpastadishes,instantramennoodles(“kidfood”),microwavablecupsofmacandcheese,andatwenty-poundsackofwhiterice.“There’smoreinthegarage,too,”shesaid.Manyofhereveningmealsconsistedofthe“brownandstir”variety,some

kindofsaucethatinvolvedaddingaprotein,usuallychicken.Forlunch,sheworkeduphermostambitiousdish:cookedstripsofchickenandchopped-uponionandredpepperinaskillet,flavoredbyaddingacubeof“goldencurry”seasoning.“ThisisaJapanesehouseholdstandby,”shesaid,showingofftheshimmeringbrown,gelatinouscubebeforeshedroppeditintothepan.Sheaddedwaterandstirred.Likeamiracle,itthickenedandcreatedathick,shinybrownsauce.SheboiledwaterforMinuterice.“I’msuchabadAsian!Butourricecookerhasbeenbrokenforages,”sheconfessed.“Sohowoftendoyoueatrice?”Iasked.Jodicockedherheadtooneside,stirringherdish.“Prettymucheveryday,”

shesaidthoughtfully.Thenshelaughed.“Iguessweshouldfixit,huh?”Ilookedatthegoldencurrypackage.Oneserving,amerequartercup,

contained41percentoftherecommendedsodiumintake.Thecube’sflavorcameprimarilyfrommonosodiumglutamate.Itoldheritaffectsmanypeoplelikeatoxin.“It’sfunny,nowthatyoumentionit,IalwaysgetaheadacheafterIeatthisstuff,”shesaid.Althoughthepackageclaimedfiveservings,Jodisaidthatsheandherhusbandusuallysplitapackage—eacheatingtwoandahalfservings.Or120percentoftherecommendeddailysodiumintakeand60

servings.Or120percentoftherecommendeddailysodiumintakeand60percentoftherecommendeddailyfatintake,whichdidn’tincludetheoilneededtostir-frythechickenandvegetables.Asshesatatthetable,shefellintoherchairwithaheavysigh.“Ididn’tknowallthat.IguessIshouldn’tmakeitanymore.”Butwhatwould

happentothesixpackagesinherpantry?Plusthecurryremainedoneofthefewthingsthatherson,Koji,wouldeat.“Hewilleatalittleofthechickenandsaucesometimes,butnotthericeanddefinitelynoneofthevegetables,”shesaid.Likemanytoddlers,Kojiwasawildlyfussyeater.Heeschewedvegetables.Unpleasantscenariosoccurredwhentheytriedtoforcehimtoeatanythingotherthanchickennuggets,pizza,fishsticks,ormacandcheese.“Itallstartedwithdaycare.That’swhattheyfeedhimthere.Nowhewon’teatanythingelse.Iworryabouthim.Imean,thatcan’tbehealthy,right?”ResearchstudieshavefoundthatanincreasingnumberofAmericanchildren

maygetenoughfoodtoeatyetremainundernourishedduetooverrelianceonfoodsthatarehighinfat,salt,andsugaryetlackthefundamentalnutrients.A2004studyfoundthatnearlyathirdofthecaloriesinatypicalAmericanchild’sdietcamefromjunkfoods,definedasultraprocessedfoodswithlittlenutrition.It’shardtoblamekids,accordingtoDr.DavidA.Kessler,theauthorofThe

EndofOvereating:TakingControloftheInsatiableAmericanAppetite.Manyofthefoodsonthecommonkid-foodlist—chickennuggets,powder-basedmacandcheese,fishsticks—havebeenengineeredtostimulatepleasurecentersinthebrain.Studiesfoundthatasaresult,ratscanbecomeaddictedtojunkfoodinthesamewaythattheydotococaineorheroin.Justaswithdrugaddictions,ratsoftenrejecttheirstandard“ratchow”andstarvetodeathwhendeniedjunkfood.Thatmayexplainthedifficulty—orsometimesimpossibility—oftryingtoforcebroccoliintoafour-year-oldinplaceofdinosaur-shapedpizzabites.Anacquaintanceofminetookherfussy,plumptoddlertothedoctorwhenshe

noticedhehadbecomegrumpyandstartedtogainweight.Thedoctordescribedhisconditionas“asortofstarving.”Hewasdehydrated,anunsurprisingfactgiventhatheshunnedwaterandinsistedonsugar-spikedfruitjuicesorflavoredmilk.Whenshetallieduphiscollectivemealsfromdaycareandathome,shewashorrifiedtorealizethathewassubsistingonjuiceboxes,chickennuggets,cheeseburgers,Frenchfries,andhotdogs.Shecouldn’tplacethelasttimeshehadbeenabletomakehimeatavegetable.ItoldJodithatstory.“It’snotlikeshewasabadmother,”Isaid.“Shestartedrealizingthat

wherevertheywent,thechildren’smenuinvariablyincludedmacandcheese,fries,pizza,hotdogs,andhamburgers.Itgivespeoplethemessagethatthat’showkidsshouldeat.”

howkidsshouldeat.”ThenormallybubblyJodistaredatthecounter.“Thatprettymuchdescribes

whatKojieats,too.”Shestaredintohercoffee.“I’mtheonewhoissupposedtotakecareofhim.IknowthatIshouldn’tgivehimthatkindofstuff.Sometimes,though,IcomehomeandIthink,Iwillmakehimeatahealthydinner.Ilookinthecupboardsandthefridgeandpulloutsomevegetablesandthink,Idon’tevenknowhowtoactuallycookthese.Doyouboilthem?”Sheappearedsuddenlydefeated.Thegoldencurryhadseemedlikeagoodoptionbecauseatleastitwasn’tbreadedorfried.“Inevereventhoughttolookatthelabel.Isthatsomethingyoucouldmakewithoutacube?”

TERRI

Terriwasasoft-faced,strawberry-blond-hairedforty-six-year-oldwhohadditchedalawcareerinthewakeofacrumbledmarriageandbattleswithalcoholismadozenyearsago.Shemanagedasmalltourismbusinessfromherone-bedroomcondo.Duetothesedentarynatureofherwork,plusarecentbrokenankle,shefiguredshewasfortypoundsoverweight.Shewasbattlinghighbloodpressure,amongotherhealthproblems.Accumulatedpapers,brochures,magazines,newspapers,bills,andunopened

junkmailroselikeasmallmountainoffherdiningroomtable,withaportionofthepilecascadinglikeaglacierintoapuddleonthefloor.Herkitchenremainedpristine.“That’sbecauseIdon’tuseitthatmuch!”shesaid,laughingnervously.Terristruggledtofindthemotivationtocookforherself.Dinnertendedtobe

takeoutoriented.“IrelyonChinesefoodandbaguettesandwichesfromalocalbakery,”shesaid.“ImakefartoomanyrunstoMcDonald’sandJackintheBoxforburgers,shakes,thatsortofthing.”Mostweeks,sheorderedalargepizzaandateitoverthecourseoftwoorthreedays.“ThethingisthatIlikevegetables,butIdon’tfeellikeIcookthemverywell.

Ialsotendtogooverboardatthefarmers’marketandthenIfindallthisstuffdeadinmyfridge.”Theprevioussummer,shehadsignedupforaCommunitySupportedAgriculture(CSA)basketfilledwithfreshproducedirectfromafarmer.“EventhoughIgotiteveryotherweek,itwasstilltoomuchforoneperson.Ifeltevenworsewhenthatwentbad.”Herfridgewasagraveyardofexpiredcondiments,aheavyvineofaging

grapes,andacontainerofGreekyogurtwithaneightmonth-oldexpirationdate.Shepointedtoafewjarswithunidentifiablegoointhem.“Attemptsatmakingvinaigrette,”shesaid,nodding.“Imaketoomuchsoitstaysinthereforever.”Thefreezerwasequallystark;oneofitsfewcontentswasafour-year-old

turkeydinner.“That’sfromaThanksgivingwhenIdecidedIcouldn’tdealwithmyfamily,”shesaid,thenlaughednervouslyagain.OnThanksgiving,shewenttoMcDonald’s.Shelookedabitsadatthememoryassheshutthedooronthefrozen-foodtour.Hershelveswerenodstohealthyeatingandfallsfromgraceofit.Nexttothe

quinoa(unopened)therewasashelf-stablemicrowavablemeatloafdinnerandcrackedbulgurnexttofriedonions(“forgreenbeancasserole,”sheinterjected).Forhermeal,sheboiledwholewheatpastaandtosseditwitholiveoil.“I

Forhermeal,sheboiledwholewheatpastaandtosseditwitholiveoil.“Iwouldhavenoideahowtomakepastasauce,”shesaid,grindingseasaltontoherpasta.“I’mfeelingkindofvirtuoustodaybecauseI’mnotusingHamburgerHelperorajarredsauce.”She’dbeenrelyingonthemlessaftershelearnedthatshehadhighbloodpressure.AsshesatdownwithherpastainabeigeLa-Z-Boychairinherlivingroom,shetalkedwistfullyaboutthedayswhen,asanewlywed,shetriedherhandatcooking.Shemadeholidayroastsandevenhosteddinnerparties.“IlostinterestincookingafterIstoppeddrinking,”shesaidhonestly.“But

I’mrealizingnowthatbynotcookingI’mhurtingmyself,probablymorethanIrealize.Iwanttobeexcitedbyitagain,”shesaid.“Idon’twanttobeonadiet.IjustwanttochangethewayIeat.ButIdon’tknowwheretostartorhowtosustainthat,youknow?”Terristruckmeasatoughcase.Forhighbloodpressure,thebeststepshe

couldtakewouldbetocookmoreoften.ThevastmajorityofaverageAmericans’sodiumintake—nearly80percent—comesfromfastfoodorultraprocessedfare.Bycomparison,only5percentofsodiumcomesfromhomecooking.Shementionedtimeasanissue,butthentalkedaboutalotoftripstophysicallypickupfoodandeatout,timethatshemightusetomakedinnerinstead.Ifearedthatwhatshewantedwasn’tcookinglessons,butamagicbullet.

DONNA

InTacoma,wemetDonna,ashy,sweet-facedtwenty-six-year-oldnewlywedwhoresidedinarowofmodeststarterhomes.HerhairremindedmeofShirleyTemple’s,darkandspiralingdownjustabovehershoulders.Inatinny,little-girlvoicesheasked,“Doyouwantanyicedtea?Ihavesomeinthegarage.”Donnawasgosh-darnedadorable.Sheandherhusbandhadpurchasedthe

housetwoyearsearliertheweekbeforetheygotmarried,asymboloftheirmutualgung-hocommitment.HerpleasantkitchenlookedasifitcamedirectlyoutofascenefromMadMen,repletewithcanary-coloredretroappliances.Thefridgesportedanextradoor,presumablychild-sized,builtintothefront.“Isn’tthisweird?It’skindofamidgetdoororsomething.Wewanttoredoit,”Donnatrilledbrightly.“Butit’ssodarnedexpensive.Sureyoudon’twantanytea?”“Doyouhaveanyvodka?”Iasked,onlypartlyinjest.Donnalaughed.“Ofcoursenot,silly!”Donnaworkedlonghoursincommunicationsforaninternationalaid

organizationthathelpsfamiliesinAfrica.“Weshouldhavetwopeopletodomyjob,butofcourseit’sanonprofitsotheyjustworkyoutothebone.Butit’sveryrewarding.”WhenDonnaandherhusbandmarried,theyagreedthathewouldcookanddo

dishesandshewoulddoallthelaundry.“ButnowIrealizethatIcan’trelyonmyhusbandtocook,orthatwhathemakeswillbehealthy,”shesaid.“Hegoesbackandforthabouteatinghealthy,butwhenitcomesdowntoit,hejusteatswhathewants.Hesaysthathe’llbemoreinterestedinitasIlosemoreweight,butrightnowhe’snotmuchofagoodsport.”AlthoughDonnadutifullyattendedWeightWatchersformonths,she’dlost

onlyfiveofthefiftypoundsshewantedtolose.Shecancitetheprogram’s“points”9foranything.Butshefindsthey’renothelpfulwheneatingout,andlatelythey’vebeeneatingout—alot.“MyhusbandandIfighttothedeathaboutthis.Hedoesn’teatalldayorall

afternoon.Sohe’ssupposedtobethecookinthefamily,butthenbythetimewe’redrivinghometogether,he’sstarving.Hestopsandgetsfastfoodorhewantstogoout.Thenhesnacksallnight.Hethinksthisissupposedtohelphimloseweight?”Sherevealedthatjustbeforetheygotmarriedtwoyearsago,he’dlostninety

pounds.Sincethen,he’dgaineditallback.“Iguessbackthenhehadtofindagirltoimpress,”shesaidwryly.“One

reasonthatIwanttolearntocookisbecauseIcancutdownoncaloriesallday,butIwhenIgethomefromwork,it’slikeafreefor-all.Idon’tknowhowtocook;it’snotmyelement,soIamkindofatthemercyofwhateverhewantstodo.”Sherecentlylearnedshe’sallergictosoy,andhaslonghadanunusual

reactiontorawvegetables.Inthefirstcupboard,wehitabandonedcansofSlim-Fast.“Oh,right,Iforgotaboutthose,”shesaidsheepishly.“It’sgotsoyinit,soit’sgoingtohavetogo.”Fromthenextone,shepulledoutboxesforahamburger-basedskillet

casserole.“Igrewupeatingit,soIboughtthosewhenwewerefirstmarried,butmyhusbandhatesitbecausehedidn’tgrowuponit,”shesaid.“Thesemightevenbeexpired.Idon’tknow,doesHamburgerHelperhaveanexpirationdate?”Sheexaminedthebox.“November2008.Funny,Iwonderwhat’sinitthatcouldexpire?”Inthesamecupboardshefounddehydratedmashedpotatoes,boxesofJell-O,

andablockofVelveetacheese.“ThisIuseforadipwhenguestscomeover.Youmixitwithacanofchili.”Sheduginandpulledoutanassortmentofspices,manyofthemduplicates.“Oh,wehavethreeorfourofthesamekindsofspices.Whenwefindarecipewebuyalltheingredients,notrealizingthatwealreadyhavethesameherborspiceuntilwegethome.”Onahighershelf,shehadmultiplebagsfullofflour,sugar,andotherbaking

goods.“I’dliketothinkthatIdoalotofbaking,butIdon’t.Ithinkmostofthestuffinthiscupboardwehaven’ttouchedinmorethanayear.”Shemovedon.Condensedsoup,cansofblackolives,kitstomakeMexican

food,tinsoftuna,ajarofpineapplechunks.“Weboughttheseforshishkebabsforcamping,”shesaid.Asshepulledoutmorecans,shemadeadiscovery.“Here’sthepineapplechunksfromlastyear.”Shefoundmanycansofturkeychili.“WeputthemonFritosorthingslikethatforasnack.”Fromanothercupboard,shesetouteightboxesofcornbreadmix.“Youjust

addwater,it’seasy.”Iaskedwhyshehadsomanyboxesofthesameitems.“Wespendsomuchatthisonewarehousestorethattheytoldustoupgradeto

thebusinesslevelbecausewewouldsavemoney.”Anothercupboardrevealedcasesofgranolabarsandmicrowavablebrownrice,anechotoDri’sshoppinghabits.Alowdrawerhadacacheofhundred-caloriesnacks.ShepickedupasmallpuffybagofCheez-Itsandhandleditdisdainfully.“Yeah,Iwasintothesebuttheydon’tworkforme.I’mkindofanaddictivepersonalitysoIcan’thave

buttheydon’tworkforme.I’mkindofanaddictivepersonalitysoIcan’thavejustone.Ican’tthinkofanythingelseuntilIhaveanotherbag.”Shedroppeditbackintothedrawerandquicklyslammeditshut.Withoutaword,shemovedontothefridge.Agallonofsomepinkdrink

dominatedthetopshelf.“Yeah,myhusbandboughtthis.Ididn’twanttothrowitaway,soI’vebeendrinkingit.”Shelookedatthelabel.“Imean,thislooksbad.Iknowanythingthatendsin-oseisprobablybad,oriftheadditivehasanxinit.”Sheputitback.“ThisiswhyIwanttobeeducated,sothatIcanmakebetterdecisions.”She

boughtbooksonnutrition,butrarelymadeitpastthefirstcoupleofchapters.“IbuyalotofcookbooksbutIneverreallyusethem.”She’smadeonlyonerecipefromabook,achickendishfromFreshFoodFastbyCookingLightmagazine.“Iwasdisappointedthatitwassobland.Mychickenwastoodry,andIdon’tknowwhy.”Intherestofthefridge,wefoundbricksofbutterandadrawerdevotedtoan

arrayoflow-fatcheeses.Afoodchemistoncedescribedtheprocessofmakingfat-freecheeseasacomplicatedpuzzle,onethattypicallyrequiredalotofchemicals,gums,sugars,andaddedsalttosolve.“Doyoueverwonderwhattheydotomakethemlow-fat?”Iasked.Shecockedherheadtooneside.“No,IguessI’veneverthoughtaboutit.”Wemovedon.Therewasalotofpackagedfruit,includingsomeinsmall

clearplasticcontainers.“Oh,yeah,Istoppedeatingthegrapefruitsinceitdoesn’texpireuntilnextyear.Thatkindofscaredme.Isn’tfruitsupposedtoexpire?”10Whensheopenedacrisperdrawer,aputrid,vinegar-likeodorescaped.She’d

purchasedadozenapplesinbulk,andhalfofthemsatrottinginthebin.“Itotallyforgotaboutthose.”PoliteDonnalookedvisiblymortified.“Myhusbandthinksthatifyoucangetitcheaperinbulk,youshouldbuyitevenifyouthrowhalfofitaway.”“Butyoulookupset,”Lisasaid,trainingthesmallvideocameraonher.“Idon’thaveanopiniononit,”shereplied.Butthenthecolorroseinher

cheeks.Shecontinuedwiththefridgetour.Wediscussedexpiredcondimentsandarainbowofdietsodas.Thenshediscoveredtwobrowningheadsoflettuceinanotherdrawer.Sheclenchedherjaw.Shepickedoneupandexaminedit,notunlikeHamletcontemplatingYorick’sskull.“Youknow,Igrewupnothavingmuchfoodinourhouse,”shesaid,talking

moretotheheadoflettucethantous.“Wewenttoalotoffoodbanksasakid.Formetothrowawayfood,that’skindofsacrilegious.And,well,Iworkwith

Formetothrowawayfood,that’skindofsacrilegious.And,well,IworkwithstarvingkidsinAfrica.”Hervoiceratchetedupanoctave.Shedroppedthelettucebackintothebin.“So,yeah,itdoesbugmethatwe’rethrowingfoodawayasifit’snotimportant.Thatwe’rewastinganything.”LisaandIlookedateachother.We’dtappedsomethingdeep.“Youknow,

Donna,earlieryousaidthatyoudidn’thaveanopinion,”Isaidgently.Shestartedtodrumherfingersagainstthedoor,avoidingourgaze.

“Apparently,Idohaveanopinion.”Shebangedthedoorshut.Shepausedandpurposefullyslowedherbreathing.Thensheopenedthefreezerdoor.Bigbagsoffrozenfriedsnacksdominatedthefreezer.Amongthemwasa

family-sizedbagofAny’tizers,differentlyshapedandstuffedfriedchickenproductsfromTyson.“Thosearemyhusband’s.”IaskedDonnahowmanytheynormallyeatatonce.“Oh,he’llmakehalfthepackageforustoeatasasnackafterdinnerwhilewewatchtelevision.”That’ssixservings,or1,280caloriesand66gramsoffat.Shemovedquicklyontothemanybagsoffrozenvegetables,buttheynever

usedthembecausetheydidn’tcookwithvegetables.“IknowthatIdon’tgetenoughfruitandvegetablesinmydiet.Idon’tknowhowtomakethemtastegood.”Partoftheappealoffrozenvegetablesisthattheycomeprecut.“Myhusband

makesfunofmewhenIcutthings.WheneverIcook,IscreweverythingupandthenIlosemycourage.”Herbrotherusedtoteaseherifshehelpedinthekitchen.“He’dsay,‘Oh,you’renotgoingtocook,areyou?You’regoingtodoitwrongandwe’reallgoingtodie.’Itwasn’tactuallyallthatfunny.”Shewentquietforabit,organizingtheelementsofthemealsheplannedto

cook.Whenshespoke,itwasalmostasifsheweresimplysayingherthoughtsaloud.“Ithinkitcouldbefuntocook.WhenIwatchpeoplecook,Igetinspired.WhenIdoitmyself,Ijustgetreallyfreakedout.Ipanic.Idon’twanttocookforanyone.Iusedtolackconfidenceineverythinginmylife,andnowIthinkIhaveconfidenceabouteverythingelseexceptcooking.”Forhermeal,shedecidedon“ElPasoCasserole,”amenustapleshelearned

fromhermotherthatfeaturedcannedtomatosoup,cannedturkeychili,cannedcream-stylecorn,andshreddedCheddarcheese.Assheusedthecanopenertoopenthechili,Inoticedherhandsshaking.SweetDonna.Thismusthavebeensohardforher,tohavenotonebuttwopeoplecomeintoherkitchen,asknosyquestions,andfilmherwhileaskingabouttheonethingshefeltshedidn’tdowell.“Hey,IscrewthingsupandIwenttoculinaryschool,”Isaid,approaching

her.Igaveheraquickhugaroundtheshoulder.“Iburnedtoastthismorning.I

her.Igaveheraquickhugaroundtheshoulder.“Iburnedtoastthismorning.Iovercookedasteaktheothernight.Imean,ithappens.EvenJuliaChildscrewedupsaucesanddroppedpotatoes,rightonTV.”Shesmiledatmethankfullyandofferedapolitelaugh,butthenwentquietas

shestartedtobrownapoundofhamburger.Idecidedtoshifttheconversationtohowshewouldremodelherkitchen.Hermoodlightened.AsshetoppedthelayeredcasserolewithCheddarcheese,sheofferedsomefinalthoughts.“Ihavefriendswhosay,‘Oh,cookingissoeasy,letmeshowyou.’Buttome,

it’ssointimidating.Myfriendcomesover,andshe’sanamazingcook,shemakesitalllooksofun.Butwhenshecomesoverandwantsmetocook,Isay,Let’sgoout.I’mtooself-conscious.”Shethinkssomeofitstemmedfromgrowingupinahouseholdwhere

cookingwaslookedonasachoreratherthanarewardingactofcreationandsharing.“Wegotomyin-laws’houseandyoucantellthatthewomeninhisfamilylovetocook.Everythingmymother-in-lawmakesiswonderfulandtastesgreat.Butatmyhouse,mymomandmygrandmother,theydon’treallycook.Everythingisveryblandandheavy.Kindofunhealthyandartificial.”Shelookeddownatthedishshehadjustputtogether.“Well,justlikethiscasserole.”Sheshoveditintohercanary-coloredretrowalloven.“Morethananything,Iwishthatcookingcouldbecomenaturaltome.I’ve

cometorealizethatit’simportantformetofindoptionsaroundfoodthatIdon’tfeelIhaverightnow.IfI’mgoingtoeatright,Ihavetofinallylearntodoitmyself.”CookingseemedlikeaminefieldtoDonna,intermsofbothherown

relationshiptofoodandthepowerstruggleshefeltinherrelationshipwithherhusband.Hecouldcook,shecouldn’t,andthatunfortunatebalanceledhertoaplacewhereshefeltuncomfortableandoutofcontrolintheheartofherownhome.Shedescribeditas“hiskitchen”andcommentedthatshedidn’tevenknowwheretofindsomeutensilsandpans.Sheworkedfifty-hourweekstryingtohelpfeedkidsinAfrica,andherhusband’sbuyingdecisionsmeantthatsheendedupwastingalotoffood.Yetshehadclearlyhitapointinheryounglifewheresherealizedthatsheneededtomakeachange.OfallthepeopleIvisited,IfeltthatDonnahadboththemosttogainandpotentiallythemosttolose.

ANDRA

“I’msorry,it’sgoingtobesohot!”Andraapologizedrepeatedlyasshewalkedusupthestairstoherapartment.Edgingtowardthenineties,itwasunseasonablyhotforearlyJune.“IhavenoAC,soIhopeyoudon’tmind,butit’sjusttoohottowearabra.”ThelifeofAndra,aforty-three-year-oldparalegal,hadclearlytakensome

curiousturns.Raisedinanaffluentfamily,shelivedinwhatshecalled“asortofaslum,”acomplexoflow-slungapartmentsthatofferedsubsidizedhousingadjacenttotheairport.Inthewakeoftheeconomicmeltdownof2008,herfirmslashedbothherhourlyrateandherhoursduringamajorroundofcostcutting.Onagoodweekshetookhome$180aftertaxes.Forthepastfourmonthsshe’dbeenusingfoodstampsforthefirsttimeinherlife,afactshekeptsecretfromhercolleaguesandfromherparentslivingnearbyinanupscalesuburb.“Theyhaveapersonalchefnow,”shesaid,anedgeofwhatcouldhavebeeneitherjealouslyordismayinhervoice.Shehadn’tseentheminthreeweeks,notsinceshesoldherten-year-oldHondaCivictokeepupwithherrentandcoverherdailylivingexpenses.Largefurnitureoverwhelmedthesmallapartment.Acuriouscollectionof

knickknacksgavetheimpressionthatshehadmovedherefrommuchlargerquarters,andthatperhapsnotallofherdecororiginatedfromthesameplace.ExpensivehandmadeVenetianmaskshungononewall,whilepink-cheekedsweetHummelcharactersandFranklinMint–stylewoodlandcrittersclutteredshelvesnotfarfromitemsemblazonedwithHarley-Davidsonlogos.Crescentmoonsandastrologicalsymbolsdecoratedeverythingfrompillowstoafauxwalltapestry,andaninflatablecelestialglobehoveredinthecornerofherdiningroom.Onhercoffeetable,therewasaninexpensiveplastercastofabaldeagleclutchingastrugglingfishinitsclaws.Thebeadedcurtainseparatingthelivingroomandkitchensomehowdidnotseemoutofplace.Andraapologizedfornothavingmuchonhand.“It’stheendofthemonth,

andmyfoodstampsdon’tkickinuntilthefirst.”Shehadvisitedthefoodbankinthepastweek,wheretheyhadgivenherapackageoffrozenbonelesschickenthighs.“I’mreallynotsurewhattodowiththose,”shesaid,thumpingthehardpackwithherwrists.InstarkcontrasttoJodi,shehadabsolutelynothinginmostofhercupboards.

Inone,shehadjustfouritems—abottleofdriedItalianherbs,asmalljarof

Inone,shehadjustfouritems—abottleofdriedItalianherbs,asmalljarofmustard,abottleofWessonoil,andhalfapackageofdriedeggnoodles.Inanother,shehadjusttwocans,creamofcelerysoupandbeefravioliinsauce,bothmarkedwithbrightorange“Damaged—HalfOff!”stickers.Equallylacking,herfridgehadonlyafewitems,mostlycondimentsandaheadoficeberglettuce.Fordinner,sheplannedtomaketheonlyotheriteminherfreezer:miniaturefrozenpizzasthatshehadpurchasedatasupermarketoutletstore.“Theyhavegooddealsthere,butit’ssortofalongtimetogettherebybus,”shesaid.Assheplacedtheharddisksonacookiesheet,Andrasaidthatshebelieved

peoplecaneatwellinexpensivelybutshehadn’tyetfiguredouthow.“IusedtohaveenoughmoneythatIneverhadtothinkaboutwhattoeat.That’schangeddramatically.Myoptionsaremuchmorelimited.It’sespeciallytruenowthatIdon’thaveacar.There’snothingnearhereintermsoffoodshopping,really.”Sheevadedquestionsaboutherpast,butalludedtohavinglivedamuch

differentlifestylenotthatlongago.“Iusedtohavemoney,butnotime.NowIhavetime,butnomoney.Whenyouhavethefunds,it’saloteasierifyoudon’tknowhowtocook.Youcangoouttodinner,oryoucangetgoodtakeout.Butwhenyou’restrappedforcashlikeme,youendupeatingDomino’spizzaorstufflikethat.It’scheapertoeatbadly,oratleastitseemsthatway,especiallyifyou’reapoorcooklikeme.”Mostpeopledon’trealizethattheaveragefoodstamprecipientreceivesabout

adollarpermeal,roughlytwenty-sevendollarsperweek.Andra’sassessmentofhersituationstruckmeasaccurate.Knowinghowtocookdoesstretchfooddollars.Forthepriceofpizzadelivery(atleasttendollars),it’spossibletomakeawholeroastedchickenwithmashedpotatoesandasideofvegetables.Butitrequiresaccesstoagrocerystore,plusenoughknowledgetoimprovisedishes,takeadvantageofsales,andavoidwastingleftovers.ThespeedwithwhichAndra’slifestylehadcollapsedwasstriking.

EconomistssaythatmanyAmericansareonlytwopaychecksawayfrombeinghomeless.Andrahadaroofoverherhead,butlittlemore.Shewaswillingtodowhatittooktoweathertheeconomicstormandhopeforabetterhorizon.

CHERYL

Bythetimewemetthefinaltwovolunteers,strongthemeshadcomethrough.Mostvolunteerswereterrifiedofrawchickenandbemoanedtheirinabilitytomakepalatablevegetables.Bulkshoppingandoverzealoustripstotheproducesectionorfarmers’marketsledtoalotofwastedfoodwhencombinedwithalackofinsightorinspirationforwhattodowithleftovers.Cheryl,thirty-two,wasthemotherofafour-year-oldboyandaninfantson.

ShelivedinanupscalehomeontheedgeofabaywithcommandingwaterandmountainviewsinatownwellnorthofSeattle.Cherylwasaquiet,rail-thinwomanwithlarge,expressivebrowneyeswhohailedfromaremotetowninCanada.Shefocusedonbuyingorganicfoodandmadeapointtodriveforty-fiveminutestoalocalco-op.Yetonthedaywemether,shemadeherselfacanofsoupinherlarge,well-

appointedkitchenwithwidegranitecountertopsandstainlesssteelappliances.WhenIaskedifshe’devertriedtomakesoup,shesmirked.“No.Well,okay,once,butitdidn’tgowellsoInevertrieditagain.”

GENEVIEVE

Thefinalvolunteer,Genevieve,wasaprettytwenty-five-year-oldbrunettewholivedwiththreeroommatesinaspacioushouseinthecity.AmongthemwasJohn,whohadbecomeherboyfriend.Shemadeoneofthefewdishessheknew,acombinationofstore-boughtAsianslawcombinedwithabottleofteriyakisauce.Genwantedtolearntocookinadvanceofabiglifetransition—sheandJohnwereplanningtomoveintoaplaceoftheirown.“Ihavefriendswhocook.It’sliketheybelongtoasororityandIsomehownevergotaskedtopledge,andnowtheyseemtobeguardingtheirsecrets,youknow?”BothCherylandGencamefromhomesinwhichtheirmotherscooked,yet

neitherlearnedmuchbeforeleavinghome.“It’ssoeasynottocook,”Cherylsaid.“Youcanalwayspulloutafrozenpizza.ButIdon’twanttodothat.IwanttofeellikeI’mnourishingmyfamily,notjustgivingthemfoodtosubsiston.”Genechoedhercomments.“IguessIneverfeltcompelledtolearnbecauseit

feelslikeyoucouldgoyourwholelifewithoutlearningtocook.ButasI’vegottenolder,I’vejuststartedtorealizethatseemsliketheleasthealthywaytogothroughlife.IwanttobeabletocontrolwhatI’meating.Youreallyjustdon’tknowwhat’sinstuffanymore.”Thegoalforbothofthem,andforallthevolunteers,wassomethingthatfelt

remarkablyelusive.Cherylarticulateditwell.“Iwanttobeoneofthosepeoplewhocanopenupthefridge,lookinsideit,andcomeupwithameal.Isimplycannotdothatnow.It’slikesomekindofmagictobeabletodothat.”IthoughtaboutwhatIhadlearnedinthecourseoftheweek.Itwasn’twhatIhadanticipated,although,admittedly,Ihadn’tbeensurewhattoexpect.ButIcouldnothavepredictedtheresidueanddamagethatalackofcookingskillshadonpeople’sdailylives.Amongtheboxesandcans,Ifoundalargerstoryofperceivedfailurethatleftthemstrugglingwithguilt,frustration,andastinginglackofconfidence.ThethemesthatIfoundinthesekitchenswereechoedintheotherswe

visited.Thewomenweresodifferentintermsofage,background,andsocioeconomicstatus,buttheystruggledwithsimilarissues.Alotofthemstruggledwiththeirweight.Lackofplanningledthemtorelyonprocessedfoodortostopforfastfood.Somepurchasedtoomuchandthewastedfoodmade

ortostopforfastfood.Somepurchasedtoomuchandthewastedfoodmadethemfeelbad.Allofthemtalkedabouttheirmother,spouse,orgrandmotherandtheirabilityorinabilitytocook,andhowitimpactedthemasadults.Noneofthemcouldholdaknifeproperly;thenneitherdidIbeforeculinaryschool.FromthemomentIlearnedofSabra’sdevotiontomargarine,Iworriedthat

I’dgottenmyselfintosomethingfartoocomplicated.InDonna’shome,mealswereanemotionalriptidethatrepresentedmorethanbrownlettuce,butinvoledmorals,money,andworldview.JodistruggledwithhowtobalanceherfearsofsuccumbingtoAsianwifestereotypesandtryingtofeedhersonsomethingotherthanchickennuggets.Andrarepresentedthosemostaffectedbytheeconomicbreakdownin2008,hercomfortablelifeturnedupsidedownbyanunexpecteddownsizingthatshiftedherfromacomfortablelivingtofoodstampswithinlessthansixmonthsthroughnoapparentfaultofherown.Forallhergoodintentions,Driultimatelylivedonmassiveportionsofstarchwhilehergreenssufferedaslowdeathinherfridge.Ihadstartedthisonawhim,anditwasn’tuntilIactuallyvisitedthemthatI

realizedhowmuchcourageittookallthesewomentoallowastrangerintotheirhomes,topokeandpryandplayvoyeur,thentositinjudgmentofonethemostintimatehumanacts.Ifyoudon’tthinkofeatingasintimate,thinkofthosequietmomentsyou’vestoodaloneinakitchen,thewedgeoflightleakingfromanopenrefrigeratordoor,seekingtosatisfyacraving.Consideradoughnut.Everyoneknowsthatdoughnutsaren’tgoodforyou.

They’resugarandwhiteflourfriedinfatandtraditionallytoppedwithmoresugar.Butit’shardtodenythelureofthedelicatearomaofawarmdoughnutandtheguiltypleasureofsinkingyourteethintothemushy,powerfulsweetnessofafreshlyglazedbearclaw.Momentslater,youfeelthesugarrush,subconsciouslyknowingthatit’stoostrongtolastandthatit’sonlyamatteroftimebeforetheinevitablecrash.Howmanyofushavehadrelationshipslikethat?Thetugofsomethingforbiddenandgivinginonlytoexperiencejoy,disappointment,and,ultimately,regret.AsIlookedovermynotesandstartedtoreviewthevideoofthosevisits,I

wonderedwhatmycupboardswouldreveal.Unabletosleep,IslippedoutofbedattwoA.M.andconductedaninventory

ofmyownkitchen.Ifoundboxesofpartiallyusedpasta,mostlywholewheat.Threebagsofwhitesugar.Really?Stacksofcannedtomatoes,artichokes,olives,importedtuna,andlocallypackedclamshidtwoexpiredcansoffoiegrasandpâtéfromFrance.Damn,howdidIforgettheywerethere?PlasticbagswithvariousgrainsI’dexperimentedwithonceortwicethatMikedidn’tlike,sotheyremaineduntouched.Halfjarsofprotein-shakemixfromanambitiousgym

remaineduntouched.Halfjarsofprotein-shakemixfromanambitiousgymperiod.Amessydrawercrammedwithtiredspices,somelabeledinforeignlanguages.Inthecupboard,dyingvinegars,Wondragravythickener,greenpeppercorns,aboxofKrusteazcrustmix,andacoupleofboxesofmacaroniandcheese.Condimentsdominatedthefridge,acuriouscollectionthatrangedfrom

Baconnaisetofishsaucetofourvarietiesofmustard.TwosmalltakeoutboxesofThaifoodsatonthemiddleshelfnexttoplasticcontainersfilledwithduckfat,baconfat,andexpiredyogurt.Despiteeffortstodiligentlyuseproduce,Ifoundamoistgreenbagofwhathadbeenorganicmesclunsalad,andnexttoit,decomposingzucchini,andahandfulofmoldinglimeslurkinginthecrisperdrawerunderfreshbundlesofSwisschard.Tuckedinthebackwasanabandonedyear-oldbagofdecafcoffeeboughtafterafertilityspecialistsuggestedthatIgiveupcaffeine.Inthefreezer,bonesforchickenstockminglednexttovodka-spikedicepops,abagofwhiteporkfat(agiftfromLisa),ready-to-cookchickendumplingsfromaplaceinChinatown,half-usedbagsofspinach,frozenblueberriesfromtwosummersago,andtheremnantsofanundatedbatchofchocolatechipcookiedough.Iwasinabattlewithmyself.ItseemedthatIhadasmuchtolearnasanyof

thepeopleI’djustvisited.

CHAPTER4It’sNotAbouttheKnife LESSONHIGHLIGHTS:KitchenTools,BasicCuts,andWhyYouReallyNeedOnlyaCoupleof

Knives

OnabalmyJuneevening,thevolunteersstraggledintothekitchenonebyone.Toeachwehandedanapron,anotebook,andaclothdiaper.“Theymakethebestsidetowels,”Lisaexplainedofthediaperstothepuzzled

volunteers.“Themiddleispadded,soit’slikeanovenmitt.Youuseittopickuphotpansandstuff.”Neitherofussaidit,butthey’realsodirtcheap.Shannonpickedoneupandlaughed.“Ihavetheseexactsamediapersat

home.Ijustdon’tpicturetheminakitchen.”“Iswear,thesearenew,”Isaid.“Oh,Ibelieveyou,”Shannonsaid,worriedthatshe’doffended.“Ijustthink

it’sfunny.”Diapersinhand,theywrotetheirnamesonpiecesofmaskingtapebecauseI

hadnotthoughttogetnametags.Theytookitinstrideandslappedthemaskingtapetotheirchests.AsMikenoted,ourSeattlekitchenwastoosmalltoteachmorethanacouple

ofstudentsatatime.Ifyou’venevertried,findingakitchenthatcanaccommodateadozenstudentsprovesabitmorecomplicatedthanyoumightexpect.Onlyafewdaysbeforethefirstclass,Imanagedtosecuretheuseofakitchenownedbyacateringcompany.IdiscoveredtheplaceviaAnne-Catherine,11oneofmyfellowclassmatesatLeCordonBleuinParis,affectionatelyknownas“Ace.”“Ican’twaittomovetoSeattle.It’swhereIwanttospendtherestofmylife,”AcetoldthegroupwhilesippingvinrougeonacrispfallParisianeveningoutwithourfellowstudentsatabeauxartsbistronearLesHalles.MydreamtransportedmetoParis,whileherswastosettleinSeattle.Aceservedastheexecutivechefofthecateringcompanyforatimeandheldaseriesofcommunaldinnersinthekitchen’ssmalldiningroombeforeshelefttoopenherownrestaurant.Theownerrequiredabusinesslicense,insurance,andstatehealthcardsin

orderforustorentherplace.LisaandIsatthroughathreehourkitchen

orderforustorentherplace.LisaandIsatthroughathreehourkitchensanitationandsafetyclasswithseveralhundredaspiringkitchenworkers.Theshortversion:Washyourhandsoftenforatleasttwentyseconds,roughlythetimeittakestosing“HappyBirthday”twice,anddon’tdefrostmeatinthetrunkofyourcar.Everythingsecured,theownerhandedmethefirstsetofkeysthatI’veever

hadtoacommercialkitchen.Itwasn’tTopChef.Thekitchenishousedina1950sstorefront,mostrecentlythesiteofapizzajoint.TheextremelycantedwindowsbringtomindthearchitecturalworksofMikeBrady.Thetrapezoid-shapedroomfeelsasifitstartedlifeasacoin-operatedlaundryorperhapsadrycleaner.Theneighborsincludeajumbleofhouses,aChinesefoodjoint,used-cardealerships,old-schoolmini-malls,andaCubanplaceknownforitsmojitos.Somehow,theownermadethisspotwork.Aruggedsix-burnergasstove

anchoredonewall,flankedbyagrillandapairofwell-wornpastryovens.Amatchingsetofhandsomestainlesssteelrefrigeratorslinedtheotherwalltocomplementasix-by-eight-footwalk-incooler.Organizationreignedinthechromeindustrialracksaroundtheroom,piledwiththestuffyou’dexpecttofindinacateringkitchen:stacksofplates,servingpieces,industrial-sizedjarsofoils,vinegars,condiments,andspices,plasticbins,bottles,pitchers,boxesofglasses,cookingutensils,stacksofpansandbowls.Itsmelledvaguelyoffloorcleaner,residualcookingodors,andthelavendergrowinginthefrontplanterbox.TheownerleftPost-itnotesstuckthroughoutthekitchen.Thetonevaried

fromshrilltoverge-of-hysteriawarnings:“ForcateringuseONLY!”;“DONOTFORGETTOTURNOFFLIGHTS!”Despiteitsquirkycharm,ormaybebecauseofit,Ifeltluckytohavefoundthisplace.Theirhandswashedaftermultiplerenditionsof“HappyBirthday”andtheir

diaperstuckedintotheirwhiteaprons,thevolunteersstarednervouslyatthepileofknives.Eachvolunteerhauledinherownknivesfromhomeasinstructed.Thecutlery

clutteredthestainlesssteeltablespushedtogetherinthecenteroftheroom.Withthat,theprojectofficiallybegan.Itouredtheselection.Sabrahadpurchasedherserrated-knifeblocksetwith

fiveknivesfortwentydollarsbecause“theylookedcool,”shesaid.TrishhadasetofCutcoknivescustommadetofitintoashallowdrawerinahouseshenolongerowned;sheadmittedthatsheusedonlyabluntvegetableknifeforalltasks.Donnashowedoffaweddingpresent,aneleven-piecesetfromthePamperedChef,keptpristineintheoriginalprotectivecovers.Cherylbroughtin

PamperedChef,keptpristineintheoriginalprotectivecovers.Cherylbroughtinherknives,drawerandall,whichfeaturedeverythingfromafewantiqueGinsustosomeclassicall-carboncleaverstoherhusband’sassortmentofhuntingknives.ShannonhadasetofexpensiveGermanknives,aweddingpresentfromyearsearlier.AndratookthreebusesfromSea-Tactogettothekitchen.“Sorry,Ileftthebiggeronesathome.Ididn’twanttocarryabigbagofknivesonthebus,”shesaid.“Okay,showmeyourfavoriteknife,theoneyouusemostofthetime.Hold

themup.”Theyraisedtheirknivesaloft,liketentativeknightsatamedievalfeastfearingtheirswordswouldnotpassmuster.Mostheldavegetableoraparingknife.Onlyonepersonliftedachef’sknife.Ihadthemputtheirarmsdown.Iaskedwhymorepeopledidn’tuseachef’sknife.“Thatkindofknifescaresme,”Trishsaid.“It’ssobig.”Sabrashrugged.“Whatdifferentdoesitmake?Aknifeisaknife.”“Mostofthesekniveslookprettyexpensive,”Andrasaid,perusingthe

collection.“Yourmileagewillvary,”Ireplied.Inanefforttopresentthespectrum,Lisa

hadraidedarestaurantsupplystoreandpurchasedseveralMundialplastic-handledchef’sknives,thedefaulttoolofrestaurantseverywhere.Ihadpickedupatwenty-five-dollarOXOknifeatTargetandaten-dollarknifeatIKEA.Isetthemoutnexttomyowncollectionofknives,aUnitedNations–styleparadeofmetallurgymadebyWüsthof,Shun,Henckels,Global,andSabatierandaceramicnumberbyKyocera,amongothers.“SinceIwroteabookwiththewordknifeinit,peoplegivemeknives,”Iexplained.“Maybemynextbooktitleshouldincludediamonds,cash,orLearjet.”WewentthroughKnifeAnatomy101,startingwiththeobvious.“Asyoucan

guess,thebladeisthesharppart.Thebluntbackofthebladeisaspine,justlikeabook.Manyknivessportaraisedlipedgenearthehandleknownasabolster.“SeethisWüsthof?”Likeahandmodel,Istrokedthelengthoftheknife.

“Thisiswhatwecalla‘fulltang’becausethebladeextendsallthewaytothebuttoftheknife.It’sheldtogetherbyrivets.Abolsterisheavy,designedtohelpbalancetheknife.”Iputitdownandpickeduponeoftheinexpensiverestaurantknives.“See?Ibetthetangextendsaboutaninchintothehandle.Second,nobolster.It’sflat.”Thatmeansthattheknifehasbeenstampedoutofasheetofmetal,kindoflikeacookiecutter.Tomakeaknifewithabolsterrequiresforging,12amorecomplicatedprocessthatrequireshumaninteraction,andsoit’salwaysmoreexpensive.“Taketwokeyconsiderationsintoaccountwhenbuyingaknife.Thesteeland

‘thefeel.’Youwantaknifewiththekindofsteelthatcantakeanedgeandhold

‘thefeel.’Youwantaknifewiththekindofsteelthatcantakeanedgeandholdit.”Notallsteeliscreatedequal.Hardersteeltakesanedgebetter,resultinginasharperknife.Butparticularlyhardsteelcanbebrittleandtrickiertomaintain.There’sacomplicatedmeasureofhardness,13butformostretailknivesthe

mainconcerniscarboncontent.“Carbonmakessteelstronger.Ifyoulookforthephrase‘high-carbonsteel,’that’sastart.”Forinstance,theknivesfromVictorinox,ofSwissArmyknifefame,aremadefromhigh-carbonsteel,andtheirchef’sknivesstartataroundthirtydollars.“Marketersdon’ttalkaboutsteelsincemostconsumersdon’tcare,”Lisa

chimedin.“Instead,theirjobistotrytoblindyouwithalotoffeatures.Theyknowthatpeoplelikevalue,sotheywillpackasetwithallkindsofcheapknives,buttherealityisthatyoudon’tneedthemall.”“Okay,here’swhatIuse.”Ipickedupaneight-inchextra-wideGermanknife.

“IusedthisonethroughoutmytrainingatLeCordonBleu.It’sheavy,butIhavesmallhands,andforsomereason,theextraweightjustfeelsgoodtome.Howaknifefitsintoyourhandisthe‘feel.’Gotoaplacethathasagoodselectionofknives,suchasacookwarestore,cutleryshop,andsomedepartmentstoresorrestaurantsupplyplaces.Feelthesubtledifferencesintheweightandthegripofthehandle.Acomfortableknifeisahighlypersonalthing.“Next,buyonlytheknivesyou’lluse.Startwithagoodchef’sknife.

Supplementthatwithaparingknifeandabreadknife.”IpickedupmyGerman-madebreadknife.“Withcare,goodkniveslastforalongtime.Mymomboughtmethisformybirthdaynearlytwentyyearsago.Otherthanmylife,stillarguablythebestgiftsheevergaveme.”Trishasked,“Whataboutavegetableknife?”“Honestly,Idon’tknowwhatyouwoulddowithavegetableknifethatyou

couldn’tdowithachef’sknifeoraparingknife,”Itoldher.“Iuseachef’sknifeatleastninetypercentofthetime.Iuseaparingknifeonceinawhile.IhaveaboningknifeandacleaverfrommysetfromLeCordonBleuthatIbreakoutafewtimesayear.Ihaven’tusedmyfilletknifeinmonths.MycheffriendTedhasfourknives:achef’sknife,aparingknife,abreadknife,andafilletknife.That’sit.Hewasaprofessionalcheffortwelveyears.”Driraisedaneyebrowandnoddedherhead.“Allofthisisgoodtoknow,”she

said.“Mybudgetcanhandlegettingonegoodknife.Iwaslookingatthreehundreddollarsforablocksetandthinking,There’snoway.”“Youcangetadecentknifeforthirtytofiftydollars,andthat’sabetterdeal

thanbuyingacheapblockset,”Isaid.“Buthonestly,ifyouspendmoneyonanythinginyourkitchen,investitinthebestknifethatyoucanafford.Ifyou

anythinginyourkitchen,investitinthebestknifethatyoucanafford.Ifyoutakecareofit,you’llhaveitfortwentyorthirtyyears.”Ilookedattheclock.“Okay,nomorelooking.Findachef’sknifeandpickit

up.Youcanuseanyofmine,too.”Thewomenstirred,stakingoutaspotatthestainlesssteeltable.CherylreachedforaHenckelsknifeclosetoher.Shehadherinfantson,

Liam,strappedtoherbosominaBabyBjörn.“Icouldn’tgetasitter,”shehadexplainedatthestartofclass.“Don’tworry.Icookwithhimlikethisallthetime.”Itisnoteverydaythatyouseeababynexttoapileofahundredknives.Liamreachedfortheshiny,prettythings.Cherylkissedhisheadasshepulledhissmallhandback,“Oh,no,sweetpea,thosearenotforyou.”“Showmehowyouholdaknife.”AllofthemhelditthewaythatIhadbefore

Iwenttoculinaryschool,bymakingafistaroundthehandle.“Don’tstrangleyourknife,”Isaid.“Youwanttosortofshakehandswithit.

Placethehandleacrossyourpalm.Wrapyourhandaroundit.Withyourthumbandindexfinger,pinchthejuncturewheretheblademeetsthehandle.Thiswillbeonthebolster,ifyourknifehasone.Thisshouldleaveyourotherthreefingerstuckedaroundthehandle.”Iwatchedastheyalltriedthisout,astudyincollectiveawkwardnessand

furrowedbrows.LisaandIwalkedaroundthetable,inspectingandadjustingholdshereandthere.ItremindedmeofmyfirstdayinthekitchenatLeCordonBleu,whenthepleasantChefBrunoStihlwalkedthroughandstoppedtocorrectmyowngriponmybrand-newknife.“Non,”hesaidashegentlyunwrappedmyfistandcarefullyreworkedmyfingersintothecorrectposition.Heheldmyhandinhisashedemonstratedtherockingmotiontousewhencutting.“Oui,commeça.Uncouteaudoitêtreuneextensiondevotremain,”hesaid,smiling,andthenwalkedaway.Loosely,thephrasetranslatesto‘Yourknifeshouldbeonewithyourhand.’OnceIfiguredoutthatphraseinFrench,Ineverforgotit.Ineverthoughtaknifedemocouldmakemesonostalgic.“Howdoesthatfeel?”“Weird,”Sabrasaid.Otherpeoplenodded.“It’salittlebitlikehowyouholdagolfclub,”Trishobserved,lookingather

knifeasifithadsomehowjustbecomemiraculouslyattachedtoherbody.“Thereasonyouwanttoholditlikethisisthatyou’llhavemorecontrolover

theblade,”Isaid.“Plus,yourhandwon’tgetasfatigued.Okay,nowhandyourknifetothepersononyourright,handlefirst.Carefully.”“Thisoneisalotheavier,”Sabrasaid.Shehadbeenholdinganinexpensive

knifefromherownblockandshiftedtoaJapanesebrand.“Thisis,like,well,arealknife.”

realknife.”“Thisiswhyit’sgreatifyoucantestoutaknifebeforeyoubuyit.A

comfortableknifewillpromptyoutochopmore,whichwillencourageyoutocook,andthat’sthewholepoint,”Isaid.Someoneaskedwheretostorekniveswithoutablock,soIpulledoutasimple

blackplasticsheaththatclippedontotheblade.“Thisisaknifecover.Slipitonlikethis”—Iclickeditinplaceoverablade—“andvoilà.Itwillprotectyourknivesandyourhandsfromthebladewhenfumblingaroundinadrawer.”Magneticstripsonawallworkgreat.MikeingeniouslysnappedpowerfulbarmagnetsfromIKEAontheinsideofourstainlesssteelstovehood.Knivessnapsolidlytotheoutside,upandoutoftheway.“IwashthembyhandassoonasIusethem,andthenbang!Theysnaprighttothemagnet,highandoutoftheway.”Thatbroughtupanimportantpoint.“Alwayswashknivesbyhand.Never,ever,putaknifeinthedishwasher.

Steelistemperedwithheat.Thehighheatfromyourdishwasherwilldamagethesteel,dulltheedge,andprobablynotdomuchforyourhandleeither.Knivesshouldnevergointothedishwasher.Ever.Sayit,everyone.”“Knivesshouldnevergointhedishwasher,”theysaidinunison.“Ever.”“Onemorethingtoremember:Knivesarelikedogs.Theyneedoccasional

grooming.Getthemsharpenedatleastonceayear.Mostcookwareorcutlerystoreswilleitherofferthisserviceorcantellyouwheretotakethem.Itwillsetyoubackafewbucksperknife,butit’ssoworthit,”Isaid.“Butdoesn’tthisthing,”askedDri,holdingupahoningsteel,“sharpenyour

knife?Can’tyoudothatathome?”Lisajumpedin.“No,thisiscalledasteel.Whenyourunabladeacrossthis,

it’smorelikeafine-tuningbytakingawaybitsofmetalthatcollectontheedge.Itkeepsitstraighter.Butthemetalshouldbealittlebitmagnetictoworkandalotofthesteelsaren’tmagnetized.Sothey’rejustforthefinishingtouch,really.”It’sthedifferencebetweenbrushingyourdogandhavingitprofessionallygroomed.Withthat,wegotdowntobusiness.Wedistributedthickcuttingboardsand

settledawetpapertowelundereachtokeepitfromslipping,atrickIlearnedfromtheFrenchchefs.ThenLisaandImadesureeachpersonhadaproperchef’sknife.“Propercuttingtechniqueinvolvessticksandcubes.That’saboutit.”I

grabbedazucchinifromthetable.Icutitinhalflengthwiseandthencuteachhalfintofourverticalstrips.“RememberthatadthatsaidaRonco-something-or-othercouldmakejuliennefriesandyouwonderedwhattheywere?Well,they’re

othercouldmakejuliennefriesandyouwonderedwhattheywere?Well,they’resticks.That’showyoudoit.”Next,Itookthreesticksandcutthemintocubes.“Thisisdiced.Thethinnerthestick,thesmallerthedice.”Idicedanotherfoursticks.“NoticethatI’mnotchoppingdownlikea

guillotine.Instead,I’mstartingwiththetipoftheknifeonthecuttingboardandthenbringingthebladedown.Itshouldfeellikearockingmotion.”Next,astalkofcelery.“It’salwaysthesame,”Isaid,slicingitintotwo

vertically.ThenIdicedit.“Alwayscurlyourfingersundertoavoidcuttingthem.Thenusetheflatofyourknuckleslikeaguidefortheblade.Ifyougetintothathabit,you’llcutyourselfalotlessoften.”Withagrunt,Lisabangedafive-gallonbucketcontainingthirtypoundsof

zucchiniontothetable.Thegroupstoodbackandstaredindisbelief.“Uh,that’salotofzucchini,”Jodiobserved.“Whatdoyouwantustodowith

that?”“Iwantyoutopractice,”Isaid.“Alotofpractice.Solet’sgo.”Eachpersongrabbedazucchiniandmadeherfirsttentativecuts.Afterabitof

chatter,theroomsettledintoanairofquietconcentration.IsawTrishstrugglingtogetagriponherknifeandwentovertoher.“Iseverythingokay?”Shesaidquietly,“IcutmyselfreallybadwhenIwaseightyearsoldandsoI

havealwaysbeenafraidoftheblade.Ithinkthat’swhyIhavealwaysfeltsounsurewithaknife.”Iplacedthechef’sknifebackinherhandandhelditasshemadeherfirst

cuts.Icouldtellitwashardforher.“Youknow,yearsagoIbadlycutoneofmyfingerstryingtosawthroughafrozenbagel.Seemyscar?”Iheldoutmyfinger.“Icompletelyunderstand.Butifyouholdyourknifebackandkeepyourfingersoutoftheway,you’regoingtobefine.”Shenoddedandgrabbedazucchini.Iwatchedherdeliberatelysliceitandthenslowlycarvesticksfromoneofthehalves.Whenshedicedherfirstbatch,shelookedrelieved.Byhersecondzucchini,Trishmovedmorequickly.Soon,theregularthump-

thumpofknivesfilledtheroomlikeahealthyheartbeat.“Afterawhileitgetssomucheasier,”ShannonsaidasIcamearoundherside

ofthetabletocollectsomeofherdicedvegetables.“IfeellikeIhavemorecontrolovertheknife.”Withthat,themoodshiftedintooneofcordialfocus.Thewomenchatted

sporadicallyyetkepttheireyesontheircuttingboards.Halfwaythroughherfinalzucchini,Jodiinsistedthateveryonelookattheperfectionofherdice.“Ican’tbelievethatIamdoingthis.People,IwantyoutoknowthatIhaveneversomuchaspeeledanappleinmylife.”Withinahalfhour,thepileofzucchinidisappeared,havingbeendicedand

Withinahalfhour,thepileofzucchinidisappeared,havingbeendicedandthensweptawayintoamassivethirty-two-quartpotonthesix-burnerstove.Thenwehandedeachpersontwolargeyellowonions.“Whenyoucutanoniontheclassicway,it’seasier,faster,andyoucryless.

Butitalsoimpressespeople,”Isaid.“First,cuttheonioninhalfacrosstherootsothataportionoftherootstaysintactonbothpieces,”Isaid.“Ifyoucutitcorrectly,youshouldseelecœurd’unoignon,ortheheartoftheonion.ItlookslikeaGeorgiaO’Keeffepainting.It’susuallyeasiertopeelonionsafterthey’vebeencut.”Ipulledthepaperyskinaway.“Nowcutaverticalslitdownthemiddle,butdon’tcutthroughtheroot.Maketwomoreslitsoneitherside.”Ipickeditup.“Itshouldlookalittlelikeafanifyoupickitupandspreadtheslitsopen.Nowjustsliceitacrossattheend,thewayyoumightnormallysliceanonion,”andthecubesofonionstumbledontothecuttingboard.“Cool!”Sabrasaid.Thegrouplookedimpressed.Afewevengolfclapped.Sabra,aquickstudywithaknife,tackledanonionfirst.Icoachedheron

keepingherneon-greenfingernailstuckedback.“Hey,I’mtotallygettingthis!”Sabrayelledtoeveryonevictoriously,showingoffherchoppedonion.“I’mactuallygoodwithaknife!Whoknew?Thisissooocool.”IwatchedDonnaquietlystudyheronionatthecornerofthetable.Shebought

hervegetablesfrozenandprecuttoavoidhavingtochopinfrontofherhusband,whomockedher.Iwalkedaroundthetableandpickedupabitofherchoppedonion.“Thislooksgreat;perfect,actually.”Sheflashedaquick,proudsmile.“Nicejobonyourgrip,too.”Mostpeoplegotit.Terristruggledandrevertedbacktoamodifiedchoke

hold;shemadeaclumsyknifewielder.Thenuttysmellofsautéingzucchinidriftedtowardtheworktable.Months

earlier,LisahadtraveledtothesouthofItaly,whereshehadaremarkablepastadishatadonkeyfarm.Shewentintothekitchentoprytherecipefromthewomanwhohadcookedit,aprofessorofancientstudiesattheuniversityinPalermo.ThewomanspokenoEnglish.Lisa’sItalianislimitedtowhatshereferstoas“TarzanItalian.”Thediscussionwentsomethingalongthelinesof“Mewantrecipe.Yougiverecipe?”Eventually,shelearnedthatthedishconsistedofzucchinislow-cookedin

oliveoil,thenpairedwithaldentepastaandfinishedwithalotofsaltandpepper.Asanextrabonusforthatnight,Lisacaramelizedthechoppedonionsandaddedthemtothezucchini.Attheendofclass,wehandedouttakeoutboxesoftheItalian-inspiredzucchinipasta.Everyoneseemedenthusedandthevolunteersleftinagroup,chatteringexcitedly.

volunteersleftinagroup,chatteringexcitedly.Wehadreachedtheendofthefirstofficialcookingclass,andithadgone

withoutmajorslip-ups.We’dbothbeenonourfeetforatleastsixstraighthoursbytheendofit,andanhourofcleanupremained.Isearchedoneofthefridgesmarkedwitha“ForCateringUseONLY!”Post-itanddugoutabottleofpinotgrigio.“Youwantsome?”IaskedLisa.Wefearedbreakingoneoftheglassesinthecateringinventory,markedwithaPost-itscreaming,“DoNOTuseanyofthewineglassesexceptforDINNERS!”Sowefoundacoupleofsmallwaterglassesandclinked.“Doyouthinkanyofitsunkin?”Iaskedher.Sheshrugged.“We’llfindout.”Itwastimetowrapup.Wedivviedupthetasks.Ipulledouttherollingmop

andbucket.Sheresignedherselftothedish-cleaningareaintheback.Aspartofmyfirstjobatagesixteen,Ioftenhelpedmoptherestaurantfloorsatnight.JustasIstartedtosinkintothememory,Inoticedsomethingonasidecounter.Sabrahadleftbehindherknifeblockset.Itextedher.“Iwon’tbeneedingthem,”Sabraresponded.Idebatedwhatthatmeant.Wasshenotcomingbacktotheclassnextweek?Thenextday,Sabrasentanothertext:“Soexcited!Gotnewchef’sknife!Full

tang,goodsteel,greatfeelfor$45!SeeyouMonday!”

RusticItalianFarmhouseZucchini“Sauce”withPenne

ThisrecipeisbasedononedevelopedbymyfriendLisaSimpsonafteramealatapicturesqueSiciliandonkeyfarm.Theslow-cookedzucchinitakesonanutty,earthyflavorandthepastawater“melts”thevegetablesinasortofthicksauce.Thisdishisbestpreparedinastainlesssteelorcastironpantoeffectivelycaramelizethevegetables.Cookthepastatonotquitealdentesothatitwillfinishcookinginthezucchiniandabsorbmoreflavor.Brownriceworkswellinplaceofpasta.Seasonthefinaloutcomewithliberaldosesofcoarsesaltandgroundblackpepper.IsometimesaddcookedItaliansausage,freshbasil,orpinenutsattheendofcooking.Thispastapairswellwithacreamywhitewine,suchasChardonnay.SERVES2TO3ASAHEARTYMAINDISH,4ASASIDE3tablespoonsoliveoil3poundszucchini,choppedinto -inchdice6ouncesdriedwholewheatpasta,suchaspenneCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1cupcaramelizedonions(optional)(Seenotebelow.)Inalargeskillet,heattheoliveoilovermediumheat.Addthezucchiniand

tosstocoatevenly.Stirfrequentlyovermediumheat.Dependingonyourpan,theheatlevel,andthesizeofthedice,itshouldtake12to25minutesuntilthezucchinibrownsandstartstofallapart.Meanwhile,addthepastatoboilingsaltedwater.Cook2minuteslessthanthe

packageinstructs.Beforedraining,carefullyscoopout3cupsofthehotpastawater.Add1cuptothebrownedzucchini.Bringtoasoftboil,adjustingtheheatifnecessary,stirringtoscrapeupanybrownedbits.Addanotherhalfcupofwaterandrepeattheprocessuntilthezucchinitakesonathick,almostcreamyconsistency.Addthecookedpasta,atleastacoupleofpinchesofcoarsesalt,andplentyof

freshlygroundblackpeppertothezucchini.Cookforacoupleofminutes,untilthepastasoftens.Ifusingcaramelizedonions,stirtheminalongwiththepasta.Afterremovingtheskilletfromtheheat,tasteagaintoseeifthedishneedssaltorpepperbeforeserving.Note:CaramelizedOnionsCaramelizedonionsareaneasywaytoaddalotofflavortoadish.Imakeabigbatchandfreezeitin1-cupportions.Alargeten-ounceonioncooksdowntoaboutahalfcup,orfiveounces,ofcaramelizedonion.Basictechnique:Thinlyslice2onions.Add2tablespoonsofoliveoiltoalargeheavy-bottomedskilletovermedium-highheat.Cooktheonionsuntilsoftened,thenlowertheheattoasimmerandgentlybrownthemforabout25minutes.

FiveMarvelousWaystoCookVegetableswith“FlavorSplashes”

Youjustneedtoknowthemeaningoffourwords:sauté,steam,roast,andgrill.Vegetablesaredonewhentheyaretenderbutstillcrisp.Erronthesideofundercooking.Youcanalsotossinavinaigrettefromchapter8oraflavorsplash(below),ortosswithahandfulofgratedcheeseandbroilforaminuteortwo.There’snothingwrongwithplainfrozenvegetables.Flash-frozenonharvest,they’reoftenasfreshasorfresherthantheirproduce-aislecousins.Frozenvegetablesdobestsautéedorsteamed.SautéorStir-fryVirtuallyallvegetableslendthemselvestobeingquicklycookedoverhigh

heatinabitoffat.Cuttheminto -inchpieces,getaskillethot,andadd1or2glugsofvegetable,olive,peanut,canola,orcoconutoil.Addthevegetablesandstirafewtimes.Mosttakelessthan10minutes.Firmvegetables,suchaspotatoesandcarrots,takethelongest,uptoabout15minutes.CookgreenssuchasSwisschardandspinachwithabitofchoppedgarlicuntilwilted.Finishwithsaltandpepper.Ifyoumixfirmvegetableswithsofterones,besuretoaddtheharderonesfirst.RoastThisissimpleyetyieldsgreatflavor.Lineanoven-safepanwithaluminum

foilorparchmentpaper.Cutthevegetablesintouniform1-inchorsmallerpieces.Tossthemgenerouslywithoilorbutter,andaddsalt,pepper,andmaybeasprigofthyme.Roastathighheat(475°F)andstiracoupleoftimeswhilecooking.Oncediced,sliced,orotherwisebrokendownintosmallerpieces,thefollowingvegetableswillcookinlessthan15minutes:asparagus,beets,bellpeppers,Brusselssprouts,carrots,cauliflower,eggplant,greenbeans,leeks,mushrooms,parsnips,whiteandsweetpotatoes,dicedsquash(hardouterskin

discarded),andzucchini.SteamThisisano-fatwaytocookutilizingamultitudeofsetups.Cutuplarger

vegetablesinto1-inchorsmallercubes.Useanelectricsteamer,oraddvegetablestoapanwithatight-fittinglidfilledwithaninchortwoofwater,orsimplymicrowaveasmallbatchofvegetableswithabitofwaterinabowlcoveredwithaplate.Cookuntiljusttender.Addsaltandpepperaftersteaming.Thismethodisrecommendedforasparagus,greenbeans,broccoli,Brusselssprouts,cabbage,carrots,cauliflower,corn,kale,kohlrabi,onions,parsnips,peas,potatoes,spinach,dicedsquash,Swisschard,cubedturnips,andzucchini.GrillIfyougrilloften,investinoneofthosesquaregrillpanswithholes.Cut

vegetablesinto1-inchpieces,andtossthemwithgenerousdosesofoil,salt,andpepper.Putinthebasketoverhotcoals,cover,andstirregularlyuntiltheyaretender.

FLAVORSPLASHES

Justmixtheingredientstogetherinasmallsaucepan,heatbriefly,pourontovegetables,andtosstocoat.Eachrecipecoatsenoughforaboutfoursideservingsofvegetables.(Formoreideas,seethe“CheatSheet”toFlavorProfilesintheExtraRecipessectionatthebackofthebook.)AsianGingerLimeWarm2teaspoonsofsesameoil,thenadd1teaspoonoffreshgratedgingeror

acoupleofpinchesofdriedginger,afewsqueezesoffreshlimejuice,andteaspoonofsoysauce.Heatthroughforabout3minutes.CajunOilWarm2teaspoonsofoliveoil,add3finelychoppedgreenonions,andcook

untiltender,thenadd1teaspoonofCajunspiceblend,afewsqueezesoffreshlemonjuice,andacoupleofdropsofhotsauce.GarlicCitrusButterHeat2tablespoonsofbutter,add2smallclovesofmincedgarlic,abitof

freshthymeormixeddriedherbs,and1teaspoonoflemonororangejuice,andsautéforacoupleofminutes,untilthegarlicsoftens.Herb-LemonOilWarm2teaspoonsofoliveoil,thenaddthezestof lemonand1tablespoon

ofchoppedfreshherbssuchasrosemary,oregano,tarragon,thyme,orbasil.Heatthrough.Thai-Style

Heat2teaspoonsofpeanutoil,thenadd2finelychoppedgreenonions,1tablespoonofcrushedpeanuts,acoupleofsqueezesfromafreshlime,andabitofhotsauce.Gentlyheatthrough.

YourBasicRoastedChicken

Chefsaroundtheworldcontinuallydebatethebestpossiblewaytoroastawholechicken.Don’tovercomplicateit.Youdon’tneedafancyroastingpan.Anykindofovenproofpan,skillet,orsautépanwithsidesoneinchorhigherinwhichthechickenfitscomfortablywillwork.Arackisnice,butyoucanjustroughlychopupcarrots,onions,andpotatoestospreadthemacrossthebottomandbalancethechickenontoptoallowthejuicestodrain.Includesomekindoffatsuchasoilorbutter,plussaltandpepper,andbasteitatleastonce.Iprefertostartthebirdbreastsideupandthen,usingtongs,turnitoverforthelasttwentyminutesofcookingtobrowntheotherside,butthat’soptional.

BASICTECHNIQUEFORAWHOLECHICKEN

Preheattheovento425°F.Mixupsomeflavorings.Removethegibletsfrominsidethechickencavity.Gentlyeaseyourfingersunderthechicken’sskintoseparateitfromthebird,

creatingacavityacrossthetopofthebreastandaroundthelegs.Shoveyourflavoringundertheskin.Smearabitoverthetopandgenerouslyseasontheskinwithcoarsesaltandgroundpepper.Ifyouwantto,tiethelegstogetherwithsomestring;thiswillhelpthebird

keepitsshapeandcookevenly.Thelargerthebird,thelongeritwilltaketoroast.Dependingonyouroven

andyourbird,astandard3-poundchickenwilltakeaboutanhour;allowabout10minutesforeachadditionalhalfpound.Afterhalfanhour,basteitbyusingaspoon,pastrybrush,orbulb-stylebastertocollectthejuicesfromthepantomoistentheskin.Ifdesired,turnthechickenoverforthelast20minutesofcooking.Baste

again.Seeifit’sdone.Thebestmethodistoinsertaninstant-readthermometerinto

thethighmeatandagainintothebreast,avoidingthebones.Itshouldreadcloseto180°F,butdouble-checkbypullingthethighaway.Ifthejuicesthatoozeoutareclear,it’sdone.Iftheyarepink,bastethechickenagainandputitbackintheovenforanother10minutes.Repeatasneeded.Letyourchickenrestforaboutafewminutesbeforeserving.

TENWAYSTOFLAVORROASTCHICKEN

Addcoarsesaltandpeppertoeachcombination,andbegenerouswiththeoil,butter,orothertypeoffat;theexcesswillrunoffanditwillhelptokeepthemeatmoist.Mixeachintoapastebeforeapplyingittothebird.Youcan’tgowrongshovingsomefreshherbs,somelemon,awedgeofonion,oracoupleofclovesofgarlicinsidethebird’scavity,alongwithsomesaltandpepper.Lemon-HerbButtercupfreshlemonjuice;puttheleftoverlemoninsidethecavity3tablespoonsbutter,softenedHandfulofchoppedfreshtarragon,thyme,orrosemaryItalianHerbOil3tablespoonsoliveoil2teaspoonsgratedParmesancheese2garliccloves,chopped2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshherbs,suchasthyme,oregano,parsley,orbasil(orabout2to3teaspoonsdriedherbs)FrenchDijon3tablespoonsbutter,softened,oroliveoil1tablespoonredwinevinegar3tablespoonsDijonmustardteaspoonredchiliflakes1teaspoondriedthymeSoyGingerOil2tablespoonspeanutorvegetableoil1tablespoonsesameoil2teaspoonssoysauce1tablespoonricewinevinegar1teaspoonfreshlygratedgingerPesto-ramacupanykindofpesto(basil,sun-driedtomato,etc.)

GoatCheesewithProsciuttoandHerbs1ouncefinelymincedprosciuttoorpancettaorcrumbledcookedbacon2tablespoonsgoatcheese3tablespoonsoliveoilHandfulofchoppedbasilor1teaspoondriedoreganoThai-Style2tablespoonscoconutoil1teaspoonsesameoil1tablespoonfinelycrushedpeanuts3tablespoonsfreshlimejuice2 teaspoonsThaicurrypaste2tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshbasilorcilantroGreekesquecupplainyogurt4garliccloves,minced1tablespoonchoppeddill2teaspoonsfreshlemonjuiceChinaSpice3tablespoonssesameoil1tablespoonorangejuice1tablespoonChinese5-spicepowder4greenonions,minced3garliccloves,minced1teaspoonsoysauceTex-Mex3tablespoonsvegetableoilorbutter cuplimejuice1teaspoonchilipowder2garliccloves,minced

1teaspoondriedoregano teaspoongroundcumin

Pinchor2ofcayenneorafewdropsofhotsauce

FORINDIVIDUALCHICKENPIECES

Youcanaddanyoftheseflavoringstoindividualpiecestoroastseparately.Again,presstheflavoringsundertheskin.Putthepiecesonabakingsheetatopaluminumfoilorparchmentorinanovenproofbakingdishinanovenpreheatedto375°F.Thighsandlegswilltakeabout45minutes,bone-inbreastsabout30minutes,andbonelessbreastsabout15minutes,dependingonthethicknessandyouroven.Aimforafinalinternaltemperatureofaround165°F.Ifroastingmixedpieces,removethemasthey’redoneandkeepthemwarmbycoveringthemwithfoil.

CLASSBREAK

CruiseControlWeInterruptThisProjectforaCruisetotheMediterranean

Themorningafterthechickenclass,Ireceivedafranticcall.“Canyoubein

RomenextTuesday?”awoman’svoicesaid.“Achefcanceled.Ten-daycruiseontheMediterranean.Itwouldreallyhelpmeout.”Suchthingsneverhappenedinmycorporatelife.Monthsearlier,Holland

Americahadinvitedmetoworkforaweekononeofitsshipsasa“guestchef.”WhenMikeandIjoinedthecruiseontheMVAmsterdamforitsfinallegfromHonolulutoSanDiego,wemetErika,themanagerof“culinaryentertainment”forthecruiseline.MikeandIlikedherinstantlyandbondedwithherovertheshorttrip.BackonlandinSeattle,wekeptintouch.Nowshewasinneedofareplacementguestchefforoneoftheline’sculinary-themedcruises—stat.“I’mrackingmybrainthinkingaboutwhocouldgoonsuchshortnotice,”shesaid.“We’llpayyourairfare.”ShecallednotrealizingthetripwouldfallduringourfifthweddinganniversaryandMike’sforty-fifthbirthday.We’dhavetorescheduletwoweeksofclasses,andIworriedaboutlosingmomentumwiththeproject,butthenIlookedattheitinerary:Rome,MonteCarlo,Barcelona,PalmadeMallorca,Tunis,Palermo,andNaples,withthreedaysatseaduringwhichIwasexpectedtoentertaincruiserswithcookingdemonstrationsandhands-onclasses.IimmediatelycalledMike.“Iknowyou’vebeenplanningsomethingforour

anniversary,andthisissocrazylast-minute.Butwhatdoyouthink?”“Idon’tthinkIcantopthat,”hesaid.“Let’sdoit.”Withinfourhourshe’dsortedflightsandscoredalast-minutedealonahotel

roominRome.Justthreedayslater,swarmsofbuzzingVespasescortedourdeath-defyingtaxiridefromtheairportintothecitycenter.Weabruptlyturned

death-defyingtaxiridefromtheairportintothecitycenter.Weabruptlyturnedoffamainroadtocreepalonganarrow,ancientstreettotheHoteldeVillenestledatthetopoftheSpanishSteps.Itfeltdecadentjettingintoaforeigncitywithnoitineraryonshortnotice.On

ourfirstnight,wewalkedarminarmtodinnerattherestaurantTulio.Mikeordereduseachaglassofchampagnetostart.Weeavesdroppedonconversationsaroundusandflirtedacrossthetable.Iorderedtheday’sspecial,handmadefettuccinepastadosedheavilywitheggs.MikesplurgedonabottleofearthyItalianwine.Astheimmaculatewaitershavedslicesofblacktruffleontomyplateofhandcutnoodles,Ijumpedupanddowninmyseat,giddywithanticipation.Miketookmyhandacrossthetableandtwistedhisfingersinmine.“Ilove

thatyoucangetthisworkedupoverpasta,”hesaid,andtenderlykissedthebackofmyhand.Thescenewasimpossiblyperfect:aromanticcandlelitrestaurantinItaly,Mikeinasmartjacket,mycompletedisregardforcarbohydrates.“Youwanttohearsomething?”Iwhispered.Heleanedinacrossthetable.“I

wouldmarryyoualloveragainjustforthisonemomentwithyou.”Thewaiterclearedhisthroat.Wehadfailedtonoticehisreturn.Hestoodover

uswiththebottleofred.Wepolitelywaitedforhimtopourwhilemyheartpounded.Ipickedupmyforktostartonmypasta.Istoleaquicklookup,assumingMikewouldbetendingtohisplateofossobucco.Instead,hewaslookingatme.Withoutaword,hepickeduphisglassofwineinatoast.“Tofivemoreyears,”Ioffered.“No,wait.”HestoppedmeasIheldmyglassupinmidtoast.“Ibelievewe

agreedtoforever.”Weclinkedglasses.Thenextmorning,helazilythrewanarmaroundmeaswestartedtheslow

ascentofwakingfromourjetlag.Henuzzledhischinagainstmyhair.“Youstillsmellliketruffles,”hemurmuredsoftly.Beingaguestchefonacruiseshipisnotquitework,butit’snotexactlyavacation.Toearnmypassage,Ihadtoperformtwolivecookingdemonstrationsbeforeanaudience,andthenconducttwohands-onclassesforasmallgroupofguests.Thedemonstrationstookplaceintheship’sCulinaryArtsCenter,ano-expense-sparedTVstudio–styledemonstrationkitchensetatopastageinfrontofaboutthreehundredplushupholsteredaudienceseats.Hugeplasmascreensshowedtheactionlivetotheaudience,whiletheaudio-visualcrewpumpedthe“show”intoeverysinglestateroomontheboat.Soitwasmorelikeplanningtwoforty-five-minutelivecookingshowswithanunfamiliarkitchencrewplus

twoforty-five-minutelivecookingshowswithanunfamiliarkitchencrewpluscookingatastingforhundredsofaudiencemembers.Pieceofcake.OntheMVNoordam,guestchefactivitieswerecoordinatedbypartyplanner

Linda.Funspiritedandhighenergy,shespokeinathroatynorthernEnglandaccentandwasadeadringerforPatsyfromAbsolutelyFabulous,althoughthesimilarityendedtheresinceshe’snotashallowdrunk.Guestchefstatusprovidesaccesstopartsoftheshipmostcruisersneversee.Behindthegildedmirrorsandvelvetwallpaperexistsamazeofkitchensandprepareasthatspanfivedecks.LindaledmetoChefDon,theexecutivechefinchargeofthekitchens.Henoticedmybareheadandfishedapaperchef’stoqueoutofadrawer.I’dneverwornatalltoquebefore.Itdidn’tquitefitandkeptfallingoffasIwalkedthroughtheseaofIndonesianandCentralAmericankitchenworkers,all337ofthemmale.Womenkitchenworkers,muchlesschefs,areararity.Theseaofworkerspartedastheysawme.Theysmiledsweetlyandnoddedfuriously.“Oh,hello,LadyChef.”ChefDonandIzigzaggedthroughthevastkitchensstackedonmultiple

floors.Thescaleoftheoperationoverwhelmed.TheMVNoordamservedeleventhousandmealsadayfromfiveseparaterestaurants,plusbusystateroomroomserviceandspecialevents.OneareaequippedwithafloormixerthesizeofanimpressiveJetSkiturnedoutnothingbutthemorningpastriesandeveningdesserts.Rowsoftablesstoodatthereadyinonepreproomawaitingthehundredsofplatesthecrewassembledeachday.Dontookmethroughtwobakingkitchensandanentirefloordedicatedtogardemangerthatmanagedcoldfoodssuchassaladsandrefrigerateddesserts.Afull-timebutcherworkedinawalk-incoolerthesizeofmyfirstapartmenttuckeddeepbelowdecks.Duringmeals,thekitchenbuzzedatafranticyetpracticedpace.AttenA.M.,itmightbequietinthefinediningkitchens,butthecrewoftheLidoDeckbuffet—thehubofbreakfastonboard—wasjustclockingout.“Ateveryhouroftheday,there’ssomeoneworkingsomewhere,”ChefDonsaid.“Weneverreallyclose,wejustslowdownproduction.”Onourtour,ChefDonasked,“Youwanttoseesomething?”Wetookan

elevatordowntothecargoholdinthebellyoftheship.Infrontofus,palletsthesizeofdouble-widetrailersheldtonsofproduce.“Wehaveacrewwhospendtheirdaysgettingthefoodoffthepalletsandmovingittotherightpartsofthekitchens,”hesaid.“Itgoesfasterthanyoucanimagine.”ChefDonexplainedthatthecomplexitiesofthesupplyandthinprofit

marginsoftheoperationrequiredadelicatebalancingact.“Managingourfoodsupplyisoneofthemostcriticalthingsthatwedo.Wecan’tgothroughittoo

supplyisoneofthemostcriticalthingsthatwedo.Wecan’tgothroughittooquicklyorwewillrunoutbeforeournextport.Butwecan’taffordtoletitgobadorwastetoomuchfoodeither,”heexplained.“Wetryhardtofigureouthowtomaximizeeverythingyetneverrunout.”Mythoughtswenttothevolunteersandtomyownkitchen,andtothelargerissueofwastedfood.Justhowmanywiltedvegetablesinourcrisperawaitedmyreturn?Intheelevatorheadingbackuptothekitchen,ChefDonglancedagainatmy

demonstrationlist.“Paella?Ican’twait.Youhavemuchexperiencewithit?”Asithappens,foragirlfromMichigan,paellahasoddprominenceinmylife.

ItwasthesubjectofthefirstfoodstoryIeverpublishedbackintheearly1990s.DaysafterwegotengagedinSpain,MikeandIhappeneduponapaella-makingcompetitionintheheartofValencia,homeoftheclassicriceandseafooddish.Knowingthat,ourcheffriendTedbuiltacustom-madeboxandshippedhisthree-foot-widepaellapanacrossthecountryfromSeattletoFloridaforourrehearsaldinneronAnnaMariaIsland.Ifthat’snotfriendship,Idon’tknowwhatqualifies.ThepanwassomassivethatTedrentedaportablecommercialfour-burnerstovetoensureadequateheat.Ourseventyfiveguestshovered,clutchingcocktailsintheswelteringFloridanight,ashebrownedchicken,cookedsausage,sautéedonions,andaddedthericeandstock,stirringwithaspoonthesizeofanoar.Tofinish,hetossedinaplethoraofGulf-freshseafoodfromCortez,ahistoricfishingvillagenearby.Asatradition,we’vemadepaellaeveryyeartocommemorateourwedding;it’sasmucharitualinourlivesasturkeyatThanksgiving.Byfateorsheercoincidence,mylastdemonstrationwasscheduledfortheFourthofJuly,ourfifthanniversary—rightafterwe’dvisittwoportsinSpain.WebothagreedthatIhadnochoicebuttomakepaella,andtopickupapanalongtheway.However,wearrivedinBarcelonaonSundayandmostofthestoreswere

closed.Instead,wehungoutatLaSagradaFamilia,thefamousunfinishedchurchdesignedbyartistAntoniGaudi.Beforethattrip,I’dseenthechurchonlyfromadistance;thespiresalwaysremindmeoftaperedcandlesleftouttoolonginthesun.It’simpressiveonmanylevels.ButwhatIadmiremostisthatGaudistartedachurchthatheknewhewouldneverlivetoseefinished,perhapstheultimatedefinitionoffaith.Thenextday,theshipdockedattheSpanishislandofPalmadeMallorca.We

steppedupourhuntforapan.Mikeconfirmedthatstandardpaellapansarecraftedfromcarbonsteelandthuswouldnotworkontheinduction19burnersintheship’sCulinaryArtsCenter.Thebestwaytotellifapanwillworkonaninductionburneristoseewhetheramagnetwillsticktoit.Mikesentmeonmy

wayandheadedintotownonhishuntarmedwithatouristmagnetfromtheSagradaFamilia.I’dbookedaday-longexcursiontowatchaSpanishchefmakepaellaoverablazingfireinthecountryside.Abusdeliveredmeandtwodozencruiserstoarestaurantsetupinastonefarmhouse.Underasmallwoodenpavilion,thechef’screwcommencedwiththreading

threewholebabypigsontomonstrouswrought-ironpoles.Thepoleshookedintoamedieval-stylespitdeviceoverarowofwhite-hotfires.Thedistraughtlookonsomeofthecruisers’facessignaledthatmanyhadlikelyneverseenawholepig,muchlesswitnessedanironrodjammedupone’sbackside.Onlyacruisepassengerskeweredandputontothespitcouldhaveyieldedmorehorrifiedstares.Asthecrewtendedtothepigs,thechefworkedthepaella.Hestartedwith

hacked-upporkbonesonaflat,shallowpannestledaboveanotherbracingfireinthe102-degreeheat.CheftossedoutpointsinSpanishtohisyoungCatalanassistant,whocaughtandtranslatedthemforthegroup.“Chefsaysthathelikestostartwithbonesbecausethemarrowwillcaramelizeandaddrichnesstothedish,”shesaid.Theporkcrackledandsnappedasthepooloffatslowlywidenedandtheremainingmeatonthebonesdarkenedwithitsownsugar.Chefstoopedovertheheattoplacetwodozenwhitechickenthighsintothe

pan.Eachsputteredasithittheoil.Thenhetossedinbowlsofchoppedonions,tomatoes,peppers,andrice,onebyone.Finally,hepouredinabucketofdarkchickenandfishstock.Thewatchingcrowdsatmesmerized,mostslightlydrunkfromdrinkingsparklingwineinhighheatatmidday.Chefhandedalongpaddletoaclean-shavenmidwesternguyinagolfshirt.Heeagerlytookit.Everyonetookaturnstirring,includinganeighty-four-year-oldmaninSansabelttrouserswhoteeteredoverhiswalkerashepushedtheoararoundintherice.“Dad,areyouokay?”hisconcerneddaughterasked,approaching.“It’spretty

hotoverthesecoals.Maybeyoushouldsitdown.”Hewavedthepaddleather,nearlyfallingoffhiswalker.“Backoff!I’m

havingagoodtime,”hesaidgruffly.“Thatchefisn’tmuchyoungerthanme,youknow.ThisisthefirsttimeI’vecookedanythinginyearsandI’mlikingit.”Sheslunkaway.Theareatookonameatysmellthatmingledwiththearomaofcharredonions

andpeppers,joinedlaterbythesweetscentofmassive,lobsterlikelangoustines,thefinaladditionbythechefneartheendofcooking.Whenfinished,thepanwassubstantialenoughwiththericeandotheringredientsthatitrequiredfourstrappingSpaniardstohaulitaway.Armedwithfireman-stylegloves,theysquattedinunisonandwithacollectivegrunthauledthepanupandwalkedit

squattedinunisonandwithacollectivegrunthauledthepanupandwalkeditinsidethediningroomlikepallbearers.Asthefoodarrived,Inoticedthatevenwomenwhohadbeenaghastatthe

sightoftheskeweredpigsnowhappilygnawedonthepiecesofroughlycutpork.Theroomwentsilentaseveryoneconcentratedonlunch.Thechef’sassistantemergedfromthekitchenwithonelasttip.“Tryabiteofpaellaandthenabiteoftherawgreenpepperslicesyou’llfindonthetable.Itenhancestheflavor.”Hewasright.Itdrewouttheearthy,soft,andsweetflavorofthesaffronriceandthelightsea-scentedstock.ThebusdroppedusbackinPalma,atownfilledwithbeautifulSpanish

architectureandpopulatedbywomendressedinbeachattireeveninthemiddleofdowntown.MikealertedmetomeethiminthekitchensectionofthedepartmentstoreElCortesInglés.He’dlocatedtwopaellapansthathethoughtwouldworkontheship’sburners.Aftersomedebate,wepurchasedboth.Wethenboardedabuswhosedestinationwas“Airport/Harbor.”Mikeasked,“Areyougoingtotheharbor?”“Yes,”thedriverreplied.Afterafewstops,werealizedthatwewereheadingoutoftowntotheairport.

Wenervouslylookedatourwatches.Attheairport,Miketalkedtothedriveragain.“Areyougoingtotheport

next?”“Yes,”thedriversaid.“Withtheships?”“Yes.”“Doyougotothemoon?”“Yes,”thedriveranswered,nodding.Mikewavedmeoffthebus.“Let’stakeataxibacktotheship.”Thenightbefore,we’dbarelymadeitontotheshipinBarcelonabeforethe

crewpulledupthegangway.Onceagain,weranthroughtheport,thistimeeachofusclutchingapaellapan.Thenextday,ItoldthestoryofourcheffriendTedandourwedding.“Oh,

it’snotfairthatyouhavetoworkonyouranniversary,”awomanfromAsheville,NorthCarolina,said.“Areyoukidding?IfIwasathome,thisisexactlywhatI’dbedoing,making

paella.”Whenwerecountedthetripbackhome,webothmeasuredthedaysinmealsand

countries:lunchinMonteCarlooverlookingawhitesandbeachpopulatedwithbeautifultoplessFrenchwomen(crispsaladNiçoisethickwithanchovies,roastedwholefishwithfennelandtomatoes);inBarcelona,alatebitejustoffLasRamblas(spitroastedrabbit,broiledmusselswithgarlicandparsleysauce);thehiketoahillsidecliffforhot,sweetteaaboveTunis(sugarydateheavyTunisianpastries);abiteinanancientsquareinPalermo,Italy,afterbeingoverchargedbyacraftyseventeen-year-oldSiciliancartand-buggydriver(handcraftedpizzawithfreshtomatoes,grilledsquidwithsweetfennelsausage);and,finally,thebestpastavongole(pastawithclams)ofmylifehighabovetheharborontheislandofCapri.

PaellaValenciana

Paellasoundscomplicated,butit’sjustacasserolethatoriginatedasapoorfisherman’ssupperdesignedtouseupscrapsleftinthenets.Makeitonce,andthenadaptthetechniquetomakeaone-potdishthat’ssimpleorextravagantbasedonwhatyou’vegotonhand.Justkeepintactthebasearomaticsknownasthesofrito:onions,garlic,andtomatoes.I’vemadepaellawithandwithoutmeat,withgreenbeans,asparagus,freshcorn,rabbit,garbanzobeans,scallops,andouillesausage,littleneckclams,andevenDungenesscrab.Paellatakesitsnamefromthetraditionalpan,awide,flat-bottomedcarbon-

steeldouble-handledskilletwithflaredsides.Thisrecipeisdesignedforpaellapansfromtwelvetofifteenincheswide.Ifyoudon’thaveone,atwelve-inchorlargershallowskilletorsimilar-sizedpanwillwork.InSpain,paellaisoftencookedoveranopenfire,butitcanbecookedonastovetopandfinishedina450°Fovenoroveralarge,roundbarbecue.Lovelywitharioja,eitherredorwhite.SERVES6TO8Shrimp-FlavoredStock1poundmediumshrimp,deveined,shellsreserved1quartchickenstockSeasonedChicken6chickenthighsand/orlegsCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1teaspoondriedthymeCoupleofpinchesofcayenneBasics2tablespoonsoliveoil

8ounceschorizo,cutintobite-sizedpieces4garliccloves,minced1largeyellowonion,diced1greenpepper,diced2largetomatoes,seededandchopped2bayleaves1 cupsuncookedBomba,Arborio,orothershort-grainricePinchofsaffronthreads(about teaspooncrushed)ToFinishOne14-ouncecanartichokes1cupfrozenpeas,thawed2ouncesdicedpimentoAbout1poundmussels,beardedandscrubbed2or3lemons,cutintowedgesStripsofgreenpepperCombinetheshrimpshellsandchickenstockinapan,andsimmeruntil

needed.Seasonthechickenpieceswithgenerousdosesofcoarsesaltandpepper,the

thyme,andthecayenne.Heatthepanovermedium-highheatorahotgrill.Addtheoilandsautéthe

chorizountilitispartiallycooked,about5minutes.Addthechickentothepanandbrownitwell,turningoccasionally,forabout15minutes.Removethechorizoandchickenandsetaside.Addthegarlic,onion,andgreenpeppertothepanandcookuntilthevegetablesaresoftenedandstartingtobrown.Addthetomatoesandbayleavesandcookanother3minutes.Meanwhile,straintheshrimpshellsfromthestock.Addthericetothevegetablesandcook,stirring,foracoupleofminutes,until

gentlytoasted.Addthestrainedstock,saffron,severalcranksofblackpepper,and3pinchesofsalt.Stirasthemixturecomesbacktoaboil.Returnthechickenandchorizotothepan.Coverlooselywithaluminumfoil

andkeepatabubblingsimmerforabout25minutes,untilthericeistender.Ifexcessliquidremains,removethefoilandcookuntilitisabsorbed.Scattertheartichokes,peas,andpimentosontopoftherice,thenpresstheshrimpandmusselsintothehotrice.Coveragainuntiltheseafoodcooksthrough,about8to10minutes.Removethepanfromtheheatandletitstand,covered,forafewminutesbeforeserving.Discardanymusselsthatarenotopenaftercooking.

Removethebayleavesbeforeserving.Servewiththelemonwedgesandstripsofrawgreenpepper.

PARTIIABitAboutMeats,Bread,Pasta,Salads,andVinaigrettes“Thesmellofgoodbreadbaking,likethesoundoflightlyflowingwater,is

indescribableinitsevocationofinnocenceanddelight.”

—M.F.K.Fisher

“HowcananationbegreatifitsbreadtasteslikeKleenex?”

—JuliaChild

Trishmakesbread

No-KneadArtisanBreadforBusyPeople

ThisrecipeisadaptedfromthemasterrecipeintheexcellentbookArtisanBreadinFiveMinutesaDaybyJeffHertzbergandZoëFrançois.It’ssimpletoprepareandthedoughkeepsinthefridgeforuptotwoweeks.Ioftenaddatablespoonofdriedthyme,rosemary,orherbesdeProvencetothewatertoinfusethebreadwithextraflavor.Therecipewasdesignedtoworkonabakingstone,butIgetsimilarresultswithashallowcastironskillet.Acookiesheetwillwork,butyourloafmaynotgetquiteasbrownandcrusty.Youcanfindtheoriginalrecipeplushelpfulphotosandvariationsatwww.artisanbreadinfive.com.YIELDSABOUTFOURONE-POUNDLOAVES3cupslukewarmwater(about100°F)1 tablespoonsyeast1tablespoonkoshersalt6 cups(32ounces/900grams)unsiftedunbleachedall-purposewhiteflourAdditionalflourtocreateloavesCornmealCombinethewater,yeast,andsaltina5-quartbowlorplasticfoodcontainer

withalid.Stirtomix.Addalloftheflouratonceandmixwithawoodenspoonuntilthedoughiswetandstickywithnodrypatches.Coverwithalidorplasticwrap,butdonotsealairtight.Letitriseforabout2hoursatroomtemperature.Ifyouarenotusingitimmediately,refrigeratethedough,covered,forupto2weeks.Tomakealoaf,lightlysprinklesomeflourontothedough’ssurface.Scoopup

ahandfulthesizeofagrapefruit,andcutortearitawayfromtheremainder.Rubthedoughwithalayerofflourwhilegentlystretchingthetoparoundtotuckthesidesintothebottomtoformaround,smoothloaf.Puttheloafonapizzapeelorcuttingboarddustedwithcornmealtopreventsticking.Letitrise,

uncovered,foratleastahalfhouroraslongas90minutes.Theloafwillplumpbutnotchangeradicallyinsize.About20minutesbeforebaking,preheattheovento450°F.Placeabroiler

trayorothermetalpanonthebottomrackoftheoven.Putthebakingstoneorcastironskilletonthemiddlerack.Dusttheloafliberallywithflour.Slashthetopwithacrossorthreelineswith

asharpknifeandslideitontothepreheatedbakingsurface.Carefullypourabout1cupofhotwaterintothebroilertrayormetalpanandclosetheovendoortotrapthesteam.Bakeforabout30minutes,untilthecrustisbrownedandtheloaffeelslightandhollow.Cooltoroomtemperature.NoteFora“lazysourdough,”mixthenextbatchinthesamecontainerwithoutcleaningitfirst.Youcansubstitute2cupsofwholewheatflourforthewhiteflourifdesired.

BasicAlfredoSauce

Thisisagreatwaytouseupleftoverssuchasshreddedchicken,cookedshrimp,grilledvegetables,andsoon.Justtosstheminneartheendofcooking.Usecream,notmilk.Startcookingthepastabeforeyoubeginthesauce.Asaneasyshortcut,tosschoppedvegetablessuchasbroccoli,asparagus,peas,artichokes,andthelikeintothepastawatertocookthembriefly;frozenvegetablesworkwell.Addcookedchicken,vegetables,dicedham,cookedshrimp,andwhateveryouhaveonhandwiththepastaandheatthrough.MAKES3TO4SERVINGS8ouncescookedpasta2cupsheavycream(2tablespoonsreserved)teaspoonsaltcupgratedParmesanorParmigiano-Reggianocheese1garlicclove,minced(optional)FreshlygroundblackpepperPreparethepastaaccordingtopackagedirections.Carefullyreserveonecupof

thepastawatertouseinthesauce.Overmedium-highheat,addallbut2tablespoonsofthecreamtoasautépanorskillet.Whenitbubbles,addthesalt.Smallbubbleswilleruptintolargerbubbles.Stir.Whenthesaucethickensenoughtocoverthebackofaspoonorleavesacleanlineinthebottomofthepanwhenyoupullaspatulaacrossit,addthepastawater.Cookovermedium-highheatforabout3minutes,untilitbubblesagainandthesaucethickens.Addthereserved2tablespoonsofcream,heatthrough,andthenaddthecheese,garlic(ifusing),andafewcranksofpepper.Taste,andaddmoresaltifneeded.Addthecookedpastaandanyadditionalingredientsandstirwelltocoat.

CHAPTER8TossedSalad&ScrambledEggs LESSONHIGHLIGHTS:

SaladsandOmeletsasVehiclesforLeftovers,andtheMiracleofVinaigrette

TheautumnbeforeIstartedtheproject,Idonatedthefirstofseveralcooking-classdinnerstocharity.Asweetcoupleforkedoversevenhundreddollarstoaworthycauseformyservices,blissfullyunawarethat,atthetime,Ihadnevertaughtacookingclass.AsLisaandIarrivedatthedoorcladinchef’sjacketsandarmedwith

cookinggear,anelegantwomanwithabobofhighlightedblondhairholdingawhitewinespritzeropenedthedoor.“Hi,we’reallsoexcited!”shegreetedusenthusiastically.“Yep,it’sthechef.She’shere!”sheyelledoverhershouldertoherguests.Shekeptonehandonthedoorknobandwavedusinsidewiththeotherclaspedfirmlyonafluteofchampagne.ShesmelledvaguelyofChanelNo.5.Herguestsgatheredaroundthegranite-toppedkitchenislandlitteredwith

wineglasses.Thehousewasawell-decoratedatomic-eraranchstylewithanexpansivebackyardblanketedwithlushgreengrassandringedbyevergreens.Thefriendsstoodaroundincasualsummerattire,thewomenincaprisandthemeninDockersandbutton-downshort-sleevedshirts.TwoofthemenputdowntheirdrinksandlefttohelpLisalugintherestofourcookinggearfromhertruck.AsIexchangedpleasantrieswiththehosts,adark-hairedfellowholdingaginandtoniccheerfullyasked,“So,Chef,where’syourrestaurant?”Ugh,thatquestion.“Idon’thaveone.I’mafoodwriter,”Ireplied.“Oh,soyou’renotarealchef,”hesaid,alittleconfused.Thehostessinterjected,“Don’tputheronthespot.Ofcourseshe’sareal

chef!Shewenttoculinaryschool.InParis,noless!”Boozecomesinhandyfordodgingquestions.“Oh,hey,Ialmostforgot!We

broughtchampagnetomakekirroyales.”AfterImadearoundofcocktails,Iopenedthefridgedoortoputtheremnant

champagneinside.ThreedozenbottlesofvinaigretteclankedlikewindchimescaughtinaCategory1hurricane.“That’squitealotofdressingyou’vegotin

caughtinaCategory1hurricane.“That’squitealotofdressingyou’vegotinthere,”Isaidtothehostess.“Whydon’tyoumakeyourown?”“Oh,I’dhavenoideahow,”shesaid,fingeringherpearlearrings.“Doyouhaveajar?”Iasked.Weransackedthecupboards,pullingamotleycollectionofbarelytouched

bottlesofoilandvinegarsofseeminglyeveryshape,size,andflavorandsetthemonthekitchenisland.“Okay,everyone,gatheraround,”Isaid.AsIexplainedtheimpromptutastingsessionofoilsandvinegars,theguestsexchangeddubiousglances.“Butarethoseevenediblealone?”awomanasked.“Ofcourse,”Isaid.“Youneedtoknowwhateachtasteslikesothatyou’ll

haveanideawhenyouputthemtogether.”Westartedwiththeoils,avarietyofolive,canola,safflower,andsesameand

asmallagingbottleofwalnut.Wesetasideabottleofoliveoilthathadturnedrancid.“Oilsdon’thavetheshelflifemostpeoplethink,”Isaid.“It’s,like,sixmonths,andlessifyoustorethemoverthestovelikeyou’redoingherebecausetheheatbreaksdowntheoil.”LisaandIhadeveryonetastethegoodoilsandthenthebadoil.“Rancidoilisn’tbadforyou,buttheunpleasantflavorandacridtastewillruinwhateveryoudecidetodowithit.”Wemovedontothevinegars,whichrangedfromcidertowhitewinetoredwinetobalsamic.ThenLisaexplainedthatvinaigrettedressingisjustasimpleratio.“It’s

generallythreetoone,”shesaid.“Threepartsoil,suchasoliveoilorsesameoil,toonepartacid,suchasvinegarorcitrusjuice.”ThehostessandImeasuredthreetablespoonsofoliveoilandonetablespoonofbalsamicvinegarintoheremptyjar.Weaddedsomesaltandpepper.Igaveittothehostesstoshakefiercely.“Nowwhatdowedo?”sheaskedexcitedly.“Congratulations.Youjustmadevinaigrette,”Isaid.Shelookedproudand

helditaboveherheadasifshe’dwonatrophyatWimbledon.Everyonecheered.Amonthlater,shesentane-mailthankingmefortheclass,adding,“Ihaven’tboughtabottleofsaladdressingsincethatnight.Thissoundscrazy,butitchangedmylife.ItmademestarttowonderwhatelseIhavebeenbuyingthatIcouldjustbemakingmyself.”Iprintedoutthate-mailandbroughtittothenextclass.Itoldthevolunteers

thestory,andthenreadthee-mailaloudtothemastheygatheredaroundtheworktable.Onlyoneshortweekafterthenumbingheatofthepastaandbreadclass,thekitchentemperaturewasnearlytwenty-fivedegreescooler.“Thatwomanhadeverythingsheneededtomakevinaigrette,”Isaid.“She

wasmissingonlyoneingredient:theknow-howtomakeit.”Vinaigretteisoneofthemoreexpensiveproductstobuybyweightata

grocerystore.Asixteen-ouncebottleofdressingcanrunanywherefrom$3.60tomorethansevendollars.Atanaverageofthirty-twocentsanounce,that’snearlyforty-onedollarspergallon.Yetit’soneoftheeasiestandcheapestthingstomakeathome.Afterthestory,wecirculatedcopiesofabasicvinaigretterecipe.Atthetopof

eachpage:“oil+acid=yummy.”LisaandIledthevolunteersonaraidaroundthekitchentocollectoils,

vinegars,soysauce,jams,chutney,figpaste,cheeses,garlic,driedcoconut,gingerroot,spices,redwine,lemons,limes,olives,andsomeoftheDijonmustardfromthechickenlesson.Webroketheclassintotwo-personteams.“Ifyoucanthinkofsomethingyouhadeatingout,considertheflavorprofiles,thewaywedidinthechickenclass.WhatflavorsmakesomethingtasteItalian?Namethem.”Wewentaroundthetable:Parmesancheese,oregano,redwine,tomatoes,basil.“Thai?”Basil,coconut,curry,lime,hotchilies.“Iusuallybuyastrawberrybalsamic.HowwouldImakethat?”Shannon

asked.“Insummer,youcanaddmashed-upfreshstrawberries.Therestofthetime,

youcanjustuseabitofstrawberryjam,”Isaid,ananswerthatgeneratedacollective“ah”ofenlightenment.Thegroupwenttoworktastingandtalking,acacophonyofwhisksinmotion,

stoppingandtastingagain.JodiandDrimadeanAsianversionwithsesameoil,gratedgingerroot,soy,andlime.Anotherteamcraftedabalsamicwithfigpasteandbleucheese.SabraandGenmadeclassicmustardandwhitewinevinaigrettewithfreshthymethrownin.Thenwestoppedeveryone.“Okay,whisksdown!”Lisacommanded.Sheand

Ihadboughtacoupleofpackagesofmixedgreens.Wesetthemonthetable.“Pickoutdifferentsaladleavesanddipthemintoyourvinaigrette.Youwanttoseehowtheflavorpairswithyourlettuce,sincealllettucestastedifferent,”sheexplained.“Remember,thereisnorightorwronganswer.Whatevertastesgoodtoyouisallthatmatters.”Everyonestoppedanddelicatelyselectedafewleaves—radicchio,butter

lettuce,romaine,arugula,friséeamongthem.Thegroupchattedandmurmured.“Thisone’sbitter.”“Thisonedoesn’tgowiththeginger.”“Huh,it’sgreatwiththearugulabutterriblewiththatredleaf.”Theneachpairrotatedaroundthetable,tastingtheotherteams’creationswith

Theneachpairrotatedaroundthetable,tastingtheotherteams’creationswithallmanneroflettuce.Theywereallgood,butthefigandbleucheesebalsamicknockeditoutofthepark.Imadeamentalnotetotryitmyself.Everyonehadsuchagreattimewiththesaladandvinaigrettelessonthatit

wastoughtopullthemawayfromit.Butitwastimetomoveontotheeggs.“Omeletsdon’tgettherespecttheydeserve,”saysJamieOliver.He’ssoright.

Anomeletisinexpensive,easy,satisfying,andagoodwaytouseupleftovers.Plus,whosaysthateggsareonlyforbreakfast?Afamousfoodwriter,ElizabethDavid,wroteawholestoryaboutthebeautyofanomeletandaglassofwinefordinner.OneofmychefsatLeCordonBleuusedtosay,“Apprendreàfaireune

omeletteetvousn’aurezjamaisfaim.”Ifyoulearntomakeanomelet,you’llnevergohungry.HetoldmyIntermediateCuisineclassalegendarystoryaboutNapoleonBonaparte.HisarmywastravelinginsouthernFranceandspentanightinasmalltown,Bessières.TheowneroftheinnwhereNapoleonstayedmadehimanomelet.Hehadneverhadonebeforeandfounditsowonderfulthatthenextdayherequestedthetownspeopletogatherupalltheeggsinthevillagetoprepareanenormousomeletforhisarmy.Theywonthebattle,ofcourse.Iftheyhadn’t,noonewouldmakeomelets.“Omeletsaregreatforleftoversbecause,well,youcanputalmostanything

intothemandservethemforbreakfast,lunch,ordinner,”Isaid.“I’vemadeomeletsfilledwitheverypossibleleftoverincludingsteakandbleucheese.Otherwise,themethodisalwaysthesame.”Iputaseven-inchnonstickskilletoveroneoftheportableburnersand

droppedinadollopofbutter.Asitwarmed,Icrackedtwoeggsintoabowl,addedsalt,pepper,andabitofthyme,andwhisked.Theeggsmadea“shhhh”soundastheyhitthesurfaceofthewarmedpan.Iturnedtheheattolow,thentiltedthepanaroundtoassurethattheeggcoalescedevenly.Onceithadcookedthrough,Iaddedabitofcheese,foldeditoverwiththeedgeofaspatula,andsliditfromthepan.Voilà.Eachvolunteermadeanomelet.Theremaybenothingmoregratifyingthan

watchingsomeonemakeanomeletforthefirsttime.Somecameoutbetterthanothers,butstudentafterstudenthadthewidesmileofaccomplishmentasshewatchedhersfoldontoherplate.Andraopenlychuckled.“Thisissoeasy!Idon’tknowwhyitneverworkedwhenItriedthem.I’dstartoutwithanomeletbutendupwithscrambledeggs.”“Funnyyoumentionthat—makingscrambledeggsisthelastlessonofthe

day.”

Thetricktogreatscrambledeggsistostartwithacoldpan.Addacouplepatsofbutterandtheeggs,andthenturntheheatuptomedium-lowandstirregularly.It’salongerprocessbutyieldsasofterresultthantheclassichigh-heatversioninwhichtheeggstakeonanelasticflavorandarubberyconsistency.Lisawhippedupsomecreamandaddedabitofcayennetoit,thenspooneditoverthescrambledeggs,avariationonarecipebyfamedchefJean-GeorgesVongerichten.“Thisissogood;Icouldeatamountainoftheseeggs,”Andrasaid.Ihadbeenworriedthateverythingwetaughtwastoosimple.YetthatdayI

wasremindedthatinanunsureworld,fewthingsareinvariablyasgoodandtrueasahumbleomelet,asimplydressedsalad,andaglassofwine.Later,Gentoldmethatshortlyaftertheclass,shefoundherselfwithoutaplanfordinneronenight.“ButIrealizedthatIhadeggs,soImadeanomelet.Ichoppedupsomeleftoverasparagusandthrewitin.Myroommatewassoimpressed.Shewaslike,‘Wow,Ican’tbelievethatyoujustmadeanomelet,justlikethat.’SoItaughtherhowtomakeone,too.”

DIYVinaigrette

Vinaigretteisamongthesimplestthingstomakeyourself,yetoneofthemostadditive-riddleditemsinthesupermarket.Extravinaigrettewillkeepforafewdaysinanairtightcontainerinthefridge.Experiment.Useleftoversforinspiration.Ifyouhateit,you’vewastedthirtycentsiningredients.Somelettucesreduceanacidtangwhileothersamplifyit,sotasteyourconcoctionwithaleafortwototastebeforeserving.Here’sthebasicformula:1partacid+3partsoil=fabulousstuff

Inabowl,combinetheonepartacid,apinchofcoarsesalt,andafewgrindsoffreshpepper,thenwhiskinthethreepartsoil,oraddthemalltoajarandshakevigorously.Taste.Congratulations,you’vemadevinaigrette.Ifit’stooacidic,addoil.Ifit’stoosour,addalittlesweetener.Ifit’stoooily,addmoreacid.Justaddverysmallamountsuntilittastesbalancedandgoodtoyou.Ifyouhavetime,letitrestforatleast15minutes,thentasteagain.Acidandoildon’tliketostaymixed,soyoucanaddanemulsifier,likeanegg

yolkoradabofmayonnaiseormustardorhoney,beforeaddingtheoil.Additionalseasoningstoconsiderincludesomemincedshallotsorgarlic,herbs,orspices.Wantfancydesignergourmetvinaigrette?Raspberrybalsamic,forexample?

Addahandfulofberries,freshorthawedfromfrozen,orateaspoonofberry-basedjam.Asianvinaigrette?Trysomecombinationoflimejuice,ginger,garlic,miso,sesameoil,peanutoil,soysauce.French?Dijonmustard,shallots,tarragon,whitewinevinegar.Formorehelpdevelopingvinaigretteflavors,checkoutthe“CheatSheet”toFlavorProfilesintheExtraRecipessectionatthe

backofthebook.

YourBasicOmelet

Omeletscookquickly,soassembleanyfillingsthatyouwanttoaddbeforeyoustart.Foratwo-eggomelet,youcanuseaseven-inchnonstickskillet;bumpitupasizeforthreeeggs.Otherwise,allyouneedisasmallbowl,afork,andaspatula.Iliketouseadabofoliveoilandbuttertogivetheomeletalittlebitofflavor.Ifyouwanttousevegetablessuchasonions,peppers,ormushrooms,youmaywanttoprecookthembriefly.2or3eggsSaltandfreshlygroundblackpeppertotasteApinchofdriedthymeormixedherbs(optional)Asplashofmilkorwater(optional)About1teaspoonoil(suchascanolaorolive),cookingspray,and/orapatofbutterIngredientstofillyouromelet,suchascheese,ham,vegetables,etc.Combinetheeggsinasmallbowl.Addapinchofsalt,acoupleofgrindsof

pepper,andthedriedherbs,ifusing.Addabitofmilkifyouwantafluffieromelet.Whipusingaforkorawhisk.Thelongeryouwhip,thefluffiertheomelet.Heatanonstickpanovermediumheat.Addtheoil,cookingspray,orbutter.

Addtheeggmixture.Tiltthepanaroundsothattheeggrunstotheopenareasofthepantoformaconsistentlayer.Lettheeggcookthroughbrieflyandthencarefullyuseaspatulatopulluponesideandlettheremaininguncookedegggoundertheomelettothepan’ssurface.Oncetheegglayerthickens,lowertheheatandaddtheotheringredients,suchascheese,vegetables,andcookedmeatorseafood.Heattheomeletjustuntiltheeggiscookedthrough,butnottoobrownedonthebottom.Usingthespatula,carefullytuckaroundtheedgestoensurethattheomeletwillslidefreelyfromthepan.Foldyouromeletinoneoftwoways.Carefullyfolditinthepanusingyour

spatula,andthenslidethefinishedomeletontotheplate.Orputaservingplateonthecounterandcarefullytilttheomelettowardit.Oncetheedgeofthe

omelethitstheplate,usethespatulatoguidetheotheredgeoverinafold.

YourBasicBraise

Theterm“braise”promotesmuchconfusion,yetitsimplymeanstocoverandsimmersomethingwithabitofliquidsothatitcooksslowlywithmoistheat.Braisingcanyieldcomfortfoodsonmanylevels;atraditionalpotroastisasimplebraise;soisbeefbourguignon.Thereareplentyofreasonstoaddbraisingtoyourbagofculinarytricks.

Long,slowcookingprovidesgreatmealsfromthemostinexpensivecutsofmeatbygentlybreakingdowntheconnectivetissue,yieldingatender,flavorfulresult.Second,onceyouputitintheoven,it’sprettymuchonautopilot,leavingtimetodevotetoothertasksorpleasures.Braisesprovideastarturnforentertaining,asmostcanbemadeadayaheadandreheated.Leftoverbraisedmeatscanbeusedinavarietyofways,frominclusionintacosorburritostofoldingintoomeletsorscramblingwitheggs,ortheycanbeaddedtosoups,beansdishes,salads,pasta,orsandwiches.Braisinginfusesgreatflavorintovegetablesforsidedishes,too,notablycarrots,asparagus,greenbeans,onions,leeks,andBrusselssprouts.Inaskillet,lightlybrownvegetablesinbutteroroil,addabitofwater,stock,orwine,cover,andsimmerforabout20minutesoruntiltender.TheBasicTechniqueSeasonthemainingredientwithcoarsesaltandgroundpepper.Brownthemeatthoroughlyinoilovermedium-highheat.Sautéamixofaromatics,suchasonions,garlic,shallots,leeks,carrot,or

celery,orevenfruit,suchasapplesorpears,insomeoil.Addsomeliquid,suchaswater,stock,orwine.Stirtoscrapeupanybrowned

bitsonthebottomofthepan;thisisknownas“deglazing.”Returnthemeattothepanandcookuntilthoroughlytender,from2to5hours.Ifdesired,takeoutthemeat,vegetables,orfruitfromthepanandremoveany

extraneousfat.Thickenthesaucebyboilingituntilsomeevaporates;thisisknownas“reducing.”AFewTips

Useaheavypanwithatight-fittinglid(seenoteonDutchovensonpage171).Don’tusebouilloncubesinplaceofstock;theresultwillbetoosalty.Ifyou

don’thavestock,usewaterinstead.Toughercutsofmeat,suchasshoulderroasts,shortribs,brisket,andshanks,

workbestforbraising.Wholechickensordarkpoultrybraisebeautifully;bonelesschickenorturkeybreaststendtoovercookandstiffen.Youcansimplyfocusonbraisingmeat,orextenditwithvegetables,suchas

potatoes,cabbage,carrots,leeks,parsnips,orsquash.Vegetablescookfasterthanthemeat,soaddthemduringthelasthourofthecookingprocess.Here’sanexample:

BraisedPorkwithPotatoesandCabbage

Notenoughpeoplebraisepork,yetit’saninexpensivedishresultingindeeplyusefulleftovers.Youcanreplacetheporkwithbeef,chickenthighs,orevenacoupleofmeatylambshanks.Ifthemeatisonthebone,leaveit.Ifyoustartwithalargerpiece,justtrytocutthemeatintochunksroughlythesamesizesothattheycookevenly,andtrimoffexcessfat.Thiscanbeservedaloneorpairsnicelywithwidepastanoodlesormashedpotatoes.SERVESABOUT6WITHGENEROUSLEFTOVERS3tablespoonsvegetableoilAbouta3-poundpieceofporkshoulderorpicnicham,cutinto1-to2-inchcubesCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1largeonion,chopped(about1 cups)2carrots,chopped(about1cup)2stemsofcelery,chopped(about1cup)4garliccloves,peeled1bayleafSeveralsprigsfreshthyme,or1teaspoondriedthymeAbout1 cupschickenstockorwaterVegetablesheadcabbage,shreddedorslicedthin(about8ounces)2to3largetomatoes,diced,orone14-ouncecandicedtomatoes1largepotato,peeledandcubed(about1 cups)Preheattheovento325°F.Heat2tablespoonsofoilina5-quartDutchoven

overmedium-highheat.Seasonthemeatwithcoarsesaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper.Whentheoilishot,addthecubesofpork,workinginbatchesifneededtoavoidcrowding,whichwillsteamthemeatratherthanbrownit.Brownwell,about3to6minutesperside.Removeallthemeatfromthepanandsetaside.Addorremoveoilsothatthereareabout2tablespoonsinthepan.

Reducetheheattomedium.Addtheonion,carrots,celery,garlic,bayleaf,andthyme.Sautéuntilthe

vegetablesaresoft.Addthebrownedporkandenoughstockorwatertocometothetopofthemeat.Stirandscrapeupanybrownedbitsonthebottomofthepan.Coverandputthepotintotheoventosimmerforabout2to2 hours,oruntilthemeatistenderenoughtocutwithafork.Addtheshreddedorslicedcabbage,tomatoes,andpotatoestothepot,then

returnittotheovenforabout35to45minutes,untilthecabbageistender.Removethebayleafbeforeserving.Tastetoseeifitneedssaltandpepperbeforeserving.ANoteonDutchOvensADutchovenisasquat,thick-walledcookingpotwithatight-fittinglid.Youcanbuyanenamel-coatedsteelnumberforaslittleasfifteendollars,butforthequalityandlongevity,Irecommendcastiron.Astandardblackpreseasonedfive-quartversioncanbehadforthirtydollars,whileenamel-coatedcastironvarietiesstartatsixtydollars.Bothvarietieswilllastalifetimewithpropercare.

CLASSBREAK

TheRedVelvetDinnersToPayfortheClasses,IInviteYoutoaSeries

ofUnusualCommunalDinnersBytheendofJuly,thebillsfortheclassprojectstartedtomount.Therentfor

thePost-itnoteskitchen,thebarelyaboveminimumwagesforLisaandMaggie,andthecostsforfood,businessinsurance,andevenlinenssuchasclothdiapersaddeduptoacoupleofthousanddollars.Meanwhile,I’ddonatedmorecooking-classdinnerstocharity;onefetchedthirty-fourhundreddollars.Thedinnerspromisedtocombineelementsoftheproject,includingabriefcookingortastinglessonanddinner.Ofcourse,sincetheyweredonations,allthosesamecostswouldapply—outofourpocket—tothetuneofafewhundreddollarsperdinner.MikeandIhadadiscussionaboutthemountingcosts.“It’sanonprofitresearchendeavor,”Isaid,makingthecasefortheproject.

“Andthosedinnersareforgoodcauses.”“We’renotacharity,”Mikesaid.“Howarewegoingtocoverallthis?”Myculinary-schoolfriendwhohadledmetotheteachingkitchen,Anne-

Catherine,hadofferedcommunaldinnersinthespaceandhadmadeasmallprofit.AnotherfriendhaddonethesameonVashonIsland.Acommunaldinnersimplymeansthateveryonesharesonebigtable.Notablesfortwoorfour,butrathertablesfortwelveortwentyorthirty-two,withonemenusharedfamilystyle.Idecidedtotryafewdinnerstoraisemoneyforourlittlecharityproject.We’daskpeopletobringtheirownwineandsuggestadonation.Thefirstwasnothingshortofahaphazardaffair.Mikearrangedthetablesandchairsthecateringcompanyusedforevents.Jeff

ironedwhitelinentableclothstoanimmaculatefinishandartfullycraftedbitsofthelavendergrowingoutsideintosmallglassesandlitteredthetablewithtea

lights.TheresultresembledaMarthaStewartLivingmagazinespread.Bycoincidence(orfate?),weheldthedinneronwhatwouldhavebeenJulia

Child’sninety-seventhbirthday.Iexpectedfourteenguests,yettwenty-twoshowedup.Iforgottoaddsalttothedough,soeventhoughMikeledagreatlessononfashioninglovelyloaves,thefinalbreadhadlittleflavor.MycheffriendTedandIhustledtocookthefood,butthescenetookonastrangeKeystoneKopsaura.Weboughtsixdozenoystersbutforgottopackanoysterknife.Thepilotlightwentoutonthestoveandwestruggledtofigureouthowtorelightit.OnceTedandMikegotstarted,mysidetowelcaughtfire.Idroppedahugevatofcookedgreenbeansonthefloor.Thesolemeunièrefellintopiecesaswestartedtocookit.WeservedthefinaldishesaroundelevenP.M.Duetothesteadystreamofwine,fewseemedtomindthelatenessofthe

dinnerasmosteveryonewashammeredbythetimethefoodhitthetable.Duetoclumsyexecution,wecollectedlessthanweneededtocoverthecostofthefood,muchlessearnanythingtowardtheproject.JuliaChildconsoledchefsbyremindingthemthattheywerealoneinthe

kitchen,butthiswasnottrueinours.Thesmalldiningroomwasopentotheentirekitchen,sotherewasnoescape.Beforethenextdinner,Mikeengineeredceiling-to-floor-lengthinexpensiveredvelvetcurtainsfromIKEAalongthelengthofthekitchentoseparatethecookingareafromthetables.Ashestoodbacktoevaluatewhetherheneededtoimprovethetorquetokeeptheheavycurtainslevel,Jeffstoodnexttohim.Mikeaskedhimwhetherperhapsheneededaturnbuckle,apieceofhardware,tokeepthelinestraight.Jeffrespondedthatthedrapesneededmorepleats.“Pleats?”Mike’svoicescaledup.“Oh,yeah,Ithinkthey’retightenough,theyjustneedmorepleats.Icantake

careofit,”hesaid.“MysistersandIusedtoputonmusicalswhenwewerekids.Myjobwasalwaysfixingthesheetssotheylookedabitfullerwhenweusedthemascurtains.Ifthepleatsaren’teven,theylookcheap.”Heborrowedourcartohitastoreforsmallclampsandthenspentthenextninetyminutesmovingastoolalongthelengthofthecurtain,painstakinglyaddingperfectpleats.Ihavetoadmit,theresultlookedfabulous.Withthat,theRedVelvetDinnerswereborn.Afterthedubiousstart,Istrategizedthenextdinnersasifexecutingabattle

plan.Inearlieryears,I’dbeenknownforover-the-topdinnerparties,andeventhenIplannedthemenusweeksinadvance.Invariably,though,thepartybuzzedinthekitchen,drinkstookprominence,anddinnerarrivedonthetablelate,oftenverylate.

verylate.Whensomeonepaysforameal,it’sdifferent.Anentréeservedhourslate

isn’tcharming;itsimplyshowsyoufailedtoplan.TheFrenchchefswouldnotbepleased.Learningaswewentalong,webecamemoreproficientatperformance.MaggieandJeff,bothexperiencedkitchenhands,agreedtohelpprepfoodandmanagethetables.Imadetimelines,schedules,andmultipleversionsofthemenu.IevenstartedtolitterthekitchenwithmyownPost-itnotes.“DoNOTtouchdough.ForRVDonly!”Themenuforthefirstseriesincludedthefollowing:

SalttastingCalvadosandpeachsorbet(palatecleanser)

FreshsweetcornsoupwithchilioilandsearedscallopsPearandlemonverbenasorbet

ArtisanalbeeftastingSeasonalgreensaladwithlocalgoatcheeseandcherryvinaigrette

AcheesetastingwithsavorytartandfreshfruitTheredcurtaininvitedsomething...sexy.Wedecidedtoaddan

“entertainment”tothedinners.“Whataboutburlesquetogowiththesteaks?Kindoffits,doesn’tit?”askedmyfriendDeirdre.She’drecentlydirectedadocumentaryontheneoburlesquemovement,andsheknewallthebestperformersintown.ShehelpedmearrangeforTheShanghaiPearl,anationallyknownburlesqueartist,toperformduringabreakinthedinner.Forthebeeftasting,afriendorganizedavarietyofgrass-fedbeefoptions.Ted

sethisownWebergrillonthesidewalkinfrontofthestorefront,taskedwithcookingtwelvesteaksfromfourdifferentpurveyorstoexactlythesamedegree;itwassocomplicated,itwouldlikelyhavebeeneasiertodribblethreebasketballsatonce.ThelovelyShanghaiwasnodiva.Thefirstnight,shearrivedatthebackdoor

injeansandasimpleT-shirt,anoddcombinationwithherintensestagemakeup,whichincludedbrightbluedrag-queenlikeeyeshadowandglitterlipstick,andacomplicatedupdo.“I’msosorry,I’velostmyvoice,”shewhisperedhoarsely.Sheheldupabulkygarmentbag.“WherecanIchange?”Idirectedhertothebathroom.“Oh,here’smymusic.”Shewenttochange.IturnedtogivetheCDtoMike,whowasmanagingtheaudio.Instead,IbumpedintoTed,lurkingintherearofthekitchenwithapostgrillingglassofSyrahinhand.Helookedawestruck.“Uh,wow,she’s,um...ravishing.”Momentslater,Shanghaiemergedinascarlet-sequinedhip-slitburlesque

costumestruttinginfive-inchheelswithtwolargeredplumefansbalancedinonehand.Amassiveblood-redfloweryostrichplumesproutedfromthesideof

onehand.Amassiveblood-redfloweryostrichplumesproutedfromthesideofherhead.Tedtriedtolookcasualasshereadiedherselfbehindtheredvelvetcurtain.Sheturnedtohim.“Doyouthinkyoucouldholdthesefansandhandthemtomeoncue?”shewhisperedhoarsely.“WhenI’vestripped,canIhandyoumydress?Doyoumind?”Tedstaredatherandnoddedwithoutblinking.“Yes,IthinkIcanhandle

that.”Hetookthejobseriously,watchingtransfixedasthedancerbumped,grinded,

andcharmedthetinyaudiencearoundthelongtablewhileshestruttedthroughherset.Asshediscardedgloves,garters,andportionsofherdress,Teddutifullycaughtthemandcarefullysmoothedthemoverhisarms.Sheconcludedbyremovingatinyredsilkbratorevealbrightsilverpastiesandbowedintimetofinishwithhermusic.Thedinnerguestsexplodedincheers.Nothingcompletesadinnerlikeabeautifulnakedwoman.Asshereturnedbehindthecurtains,Tedhandedherbackherdressandaccoutrements.“Icandothisanytimeyouwant,”heassuredherearnestly.Maggie,Jeff,andIwatchedfromthesidelines,clutchingtumblersofwine.As

heractconcluded,Maggieleanedintome.“I’mfairlysurethatafterTheShanghaiPearl,nooneisgoingtorememberanyofthefood,”shesaid.“Imeanthatinareallyniceway.”Empoweredbythatsuccess,wedevelopedmoredinners.Demand

overwhelmedtheseatsavailable.Atfirst,thedinnerswereopentofriendsonly,thenfriendsoffriends.Thenweinvitedpeopletogeton“thelist.”Withinaweek,wehad370names.Sixofthosewithreservationscouldopttocomeearlytohelppreparedinner

viaacookinglesson.Aftertheychoppedvegetables,platedthecheesecourse,ormadepasta,theythensatwiththerestofthepatronsforthefive-orseven-coursedinner.Allofthemfollowedavariationofthefirstdinner:amaincoursethatfeaturedacomparativetasting,suchasoysters,salmon,ordifferentlyraisedtypesofpoultry.Eachfeaturedanentertainment—usuallylivemusic,butoncewebroughtinatarotcardreader.ForHalloween,wetooktheRedVelvetDinnersontheroadtotheupperfloor

oftheRichardHugoHouse,aliterarycentersetinarambling1902Victorianthatonceservedasthecitymorgue.ThehousehasbeenfeaturedinnewsoutletsfromABC’sNightlinetoNationalPublicRadioforonesimpleattraction—it’shaunted.IdidnotknowthisminorfactwhenIrentedawritingcubiclesituatedinthe

formermorgue.Iheardwhisperspastmidnight.Doorsslammedwhennoone

formermorgue.Iheardwhisperspastmidnight.Doorsslammedwhennoonewasaround.Attwoo’clockonemorning,Icaughtthesoundofwhatsoundedlikesilverwarerattlingatopsomethingmetallic.It’ssuchacliché,butthehaironmyneckdid,infact,standstraightup.Later,IunderstoodthesoundwhenIheardtheclangofmedicalinstrumentsatopatrayatmydentist’soffice.Thenextday,Iputmynameintotransfertoadifferentwritingoffice.Forthemasqueradedinner,weshiftedthedrabsix-footclassroomtablesinto

onecomicallylongdiningtabletopsetwiththree-foot-highcandelabras,immaculatelinens,andtheramshacklemismatchedthrift-storeplates,forks,andglasswarefromthecenter’sownkitchen.Alltwenty-eightguestsarrivedincostumeandcharacterforamysterydinner,masksintact.HugoHousedoesn’thavemuchofakitchen,sowestucktoanelegantyetsimplemenu:

Traysoffigs,duckliverpâté,olives,assortedsoftcheesesCassouletwithduckconfit,garlicsausage,andbraisedlamb

AutumngreensaladwithRiesling-soakedpearsAppletarteTatinwithbrandysauce

Thatnight’scassouletdinnerbycandlelighthadanairofsensuality.Champagneflowed.Peopleflirtedbehindtheirmasks.AseveryonedugintothreesteamingvatsofthetraditionalFrenchwhitebeancasseroleandstartedtoeat,theroomwenteerilyquiet.Adoorslammedsomewhereunexpectedly.Everyonesuddenlylookedaround,startled.“IthinkIleftawindowopenintheotherroom,”Isaid.Everyonereturnedtotheirdinner.Ineverleftawindowopen.Buthowdoyoutellpeoplethatitmightbethe

signofaghostsignalinghisdispleasureatfailingtogetaninvite?ThelastoftheseriesfeaturedanItaliantheme.Theeveningincludedanolive

oilandolivetasting,plushandmadepastainafragrantsaffronbrothwithshrimpandtomatoes,arepriseofsomethingI’dtaughtduringthehands-onclassesonthecruiseearlierthatsummer.ThescheduledentertainmentwasanoperasingerperformingexcerptsfromtheworksofItalian-borncomposerGiacomoPuccini.Itwasalastsupper,soIinvitedalltheguestsintothekitchenearlytocook,

andmorethanadozenofthemtookmeuponit.I’ddevelopedtherecipeasalessonontacklingthatissuesooftenmentionedbythevolunteers:Howdoyoukeeparecipefromtastingbland?Aftereveryonehelpedtomakethepastaandleftittodryontraysstackedon

thecounter,IdiscussedsomeclassicseasoningpointsfromItaliancooking.“Buyabasilplantandkeepitinyourkitchenwindowallyearlong,”Istarted.“Youcanjustpulloffafewleavesatatimeanditwilladdfreshnesstotheendofadish,anditwon’tdieinthebottomofyourcrisper.Whileyou’reatit,considergettingathymeplant,too.”Nexttip,keeplemonsorlimesonhand;the

considergettingathymeplant,too.”Nexttip,keeplemonsorlimesonhand;theacidbrightensflavor.Garlicaddsbiteandhotchiliaddspunch.Imadeoneveryblandplateofpastaandleteveryonetasteit.Thenwedivvied

thepastaintothreebowlsandletthemexperimentwithshiftingtheflavorbyaddinglemon,freshherbs,andhotchili.Inanotherbatch,thistimedosedwithgarlic.“Wow,thisisprettyboringwithoutgarlic,”oneguysaid.“Lifeisboringwithoutgarlic,”repliedanother.Afterward,asthe“cooks”tookofftheirapronstotaketheirseatsatthetables

withtheotherguests,awomanapproachedme.“Ican’tgetoverhowthelemonandthegarlicchangedeverything,”shesaid.“Ican’ttellyouhowoftenImakearecipeandit’skindofblah.Itwillneedsomething,butIcan’tfigureoutwhat,and,well,I’vealwaysbeenkindofafraidtoaddanythingbecauseI’mafraidI’llscrewitup.”Asalittlegirl,Iusedtoplayrestaurant,andinsomeways,thiswassimplythe

big-girlversion.Witheachdinner,Igainedmoreconfidenceinthekitchen.Imanagedaregularcrew,andwebondedinourkitchencamaraderie,quietlyplatingentréesbehindthecurtains.Thedinnersrequireddevelopingmenus,managingfoodcostsandbudget,andthefullresponsibilityofwhatwentrightorwrong.Forthefirsttime,IfeltlikeIwasstartingtoearnthetitleofchef,whateverthatmeant.TheoddthingwasthatjustasIthoughtthatImightwarrantit,Idecideditwasn’tallthatimportantanymore.

SpicyShrimpinSaffronTomatoSauce

Toappearshort,manyrecipesfor“quick”mealsoftenleaveoffstepsthatwouldupgradetheflavor.Thisrecipeutilizesfourimportantconceptstoawakenotherwiseblanddishes:freshherbs,acid,garlic,andspice.Frozenshrimpisagreatfreezerstaple,buttrytooptforwild-caughtNorthAmericanshrimpoverAsianfarmedvarieties.Ifyoucanfindonlypeeledshrimp,c’estlavie.Thisrecipecooksquickly,sobesuretoprepandmeasurealltheingredientsinadvance.Thisisequallycharmingservedoverfettuccinepasta,basmatirice,orsaffronrice.Noshrimp?Youcansubstitutebayscallops(takecarenottoovercookthem),asolidwhitefish(suchascod),extra-firmtofu,orbonelesschickenbreastscutintohalf-inchcubes.Youcansubstituteturmericforsaffronanddillorcilantroinplaceofthebasil.SERVES41pounduncookedlargeshrimpcupchickenstockorwater2teaspoonsplus1 tablespoonsoliveoilCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperteaspoonredpepperflakesHalfalemoncupdrywhitewineorvermouthPinchofsaffronthreads2or3largegarliccloves,minced1tablespoontomatopasteOne14 -ouncecandicedpeeledtomatoesinjuice1 teaspoonsdriedoreganoormixedItalianherbsHandfulofmincedbasilorflat-leafparsleyPeeltheshrimp.Addtheshrimpshellstothechickenstockorwaterand

simmeruntilneeded.Tosstheshrimpwith2teaspoonsoftheoliveoil,acouple

ofpinchesofcoarsesalt,afewgrindsofblackpepper,theredpepperflakes,andasqueezeofjuicefromthelemonhalf.Combinethewineandsaffron.Heat1 tablespoonsofoliveoilinalargesautépanovermedium-highheat.

Cooktheshrimpuntiltheyareopaque,about2to3minutes,thentransferthemtoabowlwithaslottedspoonortongs.Addabitmoreoiltothepanifnecessary.Cookthegarlicforabout1minute,thenaddthetomatopasteandthewineandsaffron,andcookforabout3minutes,untilsomeofitevaporates.Removetheshellsfromthestockwithaslottedspoonandaddtheliquidtothe

sauce.Nextaddthetomatoesanddriedherbs.Continuetocookovermedium-highheat,stirringfrequently,about8minutes,untilitisreducedtoasaucelikeconsistency.Tastetoseeifitneedsmoresaltorpepper.Addthecookedshrimpandsimmeruntilthey’reheatedthrough,abouta

minuteortwo.Removefromtheheat,thenstirinthemincedbasilorparsleyandaddafewsqueezesoflemonoverthetop.Serveoverhotpastaorrice.EasyHabitsforGoodFlavorThese“tricks”arethekindsofthingschefsdotoelevatewhatcouldbeablanddishintosomethingmuchmoresatisfying:Preseasonproteinwithafewsimpleseasoningsbeforecooking,suchasabit

ofoliveoil,coarsesalt,pepper,simpleherbsorseasonings,asqueezeofcitrus,orasplashofvinegar.Usefreshgarlic.Itaddspunchthewayjarredgarlicdoesn’t.Somemarkets

offerclovesofpeeledgarlicasatimesaver;theyarecommonlyusedinprofessionalkitchens.Spiceitup.Manycuisinesaddspicyingredientsasaninexpensivewaytoadd

asassy,satisfyingnotetootherwisesimpledishes.Finishdisheswitha“bright”flavorattheend.Normallythisisabitofacid

and/oranherb,inthiscaselemonandfreshherbs.Smallamountsofvinegar,especiallyflavoredones,canaddalotofflavorinafinisheddish.

PARTIII

Seafood,Soup,andtheImportanceofLeftovers

“Solong,andthanksforallthefish.”—DouglasAdams

DonnaandDriwiththeirfish

FishenPapillote,orBakedinPaper

Simpleenoughforweeknightsandelegantenoughforguests,thesmellthatescapeswhenopeningthepackageisreasonenoughtotrythis.Toensurethoroughcooking,usethinfishfilletsorchickenbreastslices;thisworkswellforsalmonandmild-flavoredwhitefishsuchassnapperandcod.Itworksbestinparchmentpaper,butyoucanalsousealuminumfoil.Usesheetsatleasteightbytwelveinchesforeachindividualpacket.Changeuptheingredients.Forinstance,usesesameoilinplaceofoliveoilandaddlime,cilantro,andgingertothepackageforanAsianflavor.Consultthe“CheatSheet”toFlavorProfilesintheExtraRecipessectionatthebackofthebookformoreideas.SERVES2WITHINDIVIDUALPACKETS1 tablespoonsoliveoilSaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperTwo4-to6-ouncepiecesoffishorthinlyslicedchickenbreastFewsprigsofafreshherb(dill,basil,thyme,rosemary,orcilantro)Fewthinlemonorlimeslicesoradashofvinegarcupwhitewine,water,orstock

VegetablesAbout cupfinelychoppedorslicedvegetables(suchasshallots,onion,garlic,zucchini,carrots,broccoli,fennel,mushrooms)forflavorandgarnishPreheattheovento400°F.Startwithtwopiecesofparchmentpaper(or

aluminumfoil),about10by12incheseach.Foldthepiecesinhalf.Ononesideofthemiddlecreaseofeachpiece,drizzletheoliveoilandaddapinchofsaltandacouplegrindsofpepper.Addthefishorchickenandturnovertocoat.Placetheherbs,lemon,wine,andvegetablesontopofthefish.Foldtheparchmentorfoiloverlikeabookandcrimptheedgessecurelytoavoidallowinganyliquidorsteamtoescapefromthepackageduringcooking.Placethepackageonabakingsheetandbakefor15minutes.Allowtositatleast2

minutes.Opencarefullybyunravelingtheedgestoensurethefishorchickeniscookedthrough,thenserve.

CHAPTER11What’sintheBox?

LESSONHIGHLIGHTS:WhyIt’sWorthCookingOutsidetheBoxAfancyKitchenAidstandmixerdominatesthekitchensofmostfoodwritersIknow.Inanonlinetourofherkitchen,famousfoodauthorAmandaHesserintroducesherhandsomegraymodelbysaying,“Isometimesthinkofthisasmythirdchild.Iuseitforeverything.”Bycontrast,wehaveasimpleyetheavychrome1960s-eraHamiltonBeach

standmixer.Nopastahook,nopaddle,andcertainlynopasta-makerattachment.Oursislimitedtoasetofstandardbeaters;itscapabilitiespeakat“heavymixing.”ThemixerisoneofMike’smostcherishedpossessionsandoneofthefewitemsinheritedfromhislatemother.Hefondlyrecallsscrapingbatterfromthebowlfortyyearsagoasthetwoofthemmadechocolatechipcookiesor—hisfavorite—yellowcakewithchocolatefrosting.Hecrackedtheeggsintothebowl.Shegavehimthespoontolick.(Yes,withraweggs.Asanation,weusedtobelessfastidiousaboutsuchthings.)Itwastheirspecialtimetogetherandremainsasweetmemory.Sure,thecakecamefromaboxandthefrostingcamefromacan,butthecakeitselfwasn’tthepoint:Hismothersetasidetimeforhim.Hisemotionalconnectionoutweighsanyofthefunctionalitythatwemightgainfromfancyattachments.Asamixer,itworksgreat.AlthoughHamiltonBeachgaveuponthemodeltwodecadesago,Mikelovinglymaintainsit,sourcingreplacementpartsfromanobscureoutpostinOhio.Sowewon’tbereplacingthemixer,andthat’sabsolutelyfinebyme.OnenightafterMikegotalittletooworkedupwatchinghisalmamater’s

footballteamtakeasounddrumming,hesnappedofftheTV.HeabruptlyarosefromthecouchwhereIsatsiftingthroughastackoffoodmagazinesandannounced,“I’mgoingtomakeacake.”Thisdidnotsurpriseme.Wheneverhe’supset,Mikeneedssomething

constructivetodowithhishands.Hemightdisappeartorebuildacarburetor,replacealightswitch,or,asinthiscase,bakeacake.Hestartedtoransackthecupboards.“Hey,don’twehaveanycakemix?”“Wehaveallthestuffforcake,”Irepliedwithoutlookingup.“Justlookupa

“Wehaveallthestuffforcake,”Irepliedwithoutlookingup.“Justlookuparecipe.”“Really?”Mikeasked.“Youmeanyoucanmakeacakewithoutamix?”Afewminuteslater,afterlookinguparecipe,Mikecalledout,“Sowhat’sin

thebox?”“Whatareyoutalkingabout?”Hebroughtaprintoutofarecipeforyellowcakeintothelivingroom.

“You’vegottoseethis.Sogetthis,it’sjustflour,eggs,bakingsoda,milk,sugar,andbutter.Butwithaboxyoualreadyaddeggs,milk,andoil,sowhat’sinthefreakin’box?”Hewasagitated.“Justflour,sugar,andbakingsoda?”Afundamentaltruthhadhithim:Youdon’tneedaboxtomakeacake.Forthefirsttimeinhislife,Mikemadeacakefromscratchwithhismother’s

forty-five-year-oldmixer.“Sothat’sit?Thisdoesn’ttakeanylongerthandoingitfromamix.”Asthecakebakedintheoven,hehadanotherrevelation.“That’sALLthat’s

infrosting?Seriously?”AnotherfirstforMikewiththemixer:chocolatefrostingfromscratch,madewithconfectioners’sugar,butter,vanilla,cocoa,andmilk.I’mamongtheminorityofwomenwhoaren’tkeenonchocolateandcake

isn’tmything,butIhadtotrytheresults.Theflavorandtextureofthecakeweremoreinterestingandvariedthantheonenotesugarsensationfromamix.“It’sgood,don’tyouthink?”Mikeaskedaswestoodatthecountercontemplatingtheflavor.Hisvoicehadasparkofpride,andforgoodreason.Hiscakewasgood.Butthatledtoagreatquestion:Whatisinthebox?Iwentbacktothe

supermarket.

Sugar,enrichedbleachedwheatflour(flour,niacin,reducediron,thiaminemononitrate,riboflavin,folicacid),vegetableoilshortening(partiallyhydrogenatedsoybeanoil,propyleneglycolmono-anddiestersoffats,mono-anddiglycerides),leavening(sodiumbicarbonate,dicalciumphosphate,sodiumaluminumphosphate,monocalciumphosphate).Contains2%orlessof:wheatstarch,salt,dextrose,polyglycerolestersoffattyacids,partiallyhydrogenatedsoybeanoil,cellulosegum,artificialflavors,xanthangum,maltodextrin,modifiedcornstarch,coloredwithyellow5lake,red40lake.

Curiously,intheboxedversion,sugaristheingredientinthelargestquantity.ComparethatlisttotheingredientsfromtherecipeMikeusedforhiscake:Unbleachedflour,sugar,milk,eggs,unsaltedbutter,vanilla,bakingpowder.Thelabelforthefrostingwasequallyunsettling:

Thelabelforthefrostingwasequallyunsettling:Sugar,water,vegetableoilshortening(partiallyhydrogenatedsoybeanandcottonseedoils,mono-anddiglycerides,polysorbate60),cocoapowderprocessedwithalkali,cornsyrup.Contains2%orlessof:cornstarch,salt,invertsugar,naturalandartificialflavors,caramelizedsugar(sugar,water),caramelcolor,aceticacid,preservatives(potassiumsorbate),sodiumacidpyrophosphate,citricacid,sodiumcitrate.Mike’sfrostingcontainedonlyfiveingredients:

Confectioners’sugar,cocoapowder,butter,evaporatedmilk,vanillaextract.Again,there’snooilandnocornsyrupintherecipe.Thecostfortheraw

ingredientsisroughlythesame.Cakemixesaren’tevenbigtimesavers.Multiplestudiesconductedfromthe1950sonwardcomparingthetimeittakestomakeacakefromscratchversusaboxedversionhavefoundthattheaveragetimesavingsrangesfromonetosixminutes.Sowhymakecakefromaboxatall?Asithappens,cakeillustratesaninterestingstoryaboutwhatwethinkaboutfoodandcooking.AfterWorldWarII,foodmanufacturershadtofigureoutotherwaystomarketallthefood-sciencetechnologydevelopedduringthewarforarmyrations.Theendofthewarmeantthelossofamassivemarket.Soinsteadtheyfocusedtheirsightsonourmothersandgrandmothers,startinganot-so-subtledecades-longcampaigntoconvincepeoplethatatleastsomeelementsofcookingwerenotworththeeffort,saysLauraShapiro,authorofSomethingfromtheOven:ReinventingDinnerin1950sAmerica.“Thefoodindustrycreatedabasicassumptionaboutcookinggenerationsago,

andit’snowfullysettledintoplaceasreality.Cakemixesexist,thereforetheyareeasierthanrealbaking,thereforerealbakingishard,”Shapirosaid.“Anotherfactormightbethatwehavefrozenandboxedversionsofthingsthatreallyarehard—frozencroissants,forinstance—soperhapstheveryfactofpackagingsomethinggivesitthatauraofbeingoutofreach.”Thedifferencebetweenarealcakeandacake-mixcakewasapparenttomost

womenbakingfortheirfamiliesinthefifties.“Butasgenerationfollowedgeneration,thenumberofhomecooksrecognizingthatdifferencedwindled,”Shapiroadded.Bluntlyput,consumersnotonlygetusedtobutprefertheflavoroftheartificialversion,nottherealthing.Manypeoplebelievethatwomenstartedtouseconveniencefoodsindroves

inthe1950s.ButasShapirodocuments,womenthenaswellasnowwereresponsibleforthevastmajorityofmealsinhomes,andtheyinitiallyavoidedmanypreparedfoodsforfearthatthey’dappeartobeshirkingtheirdutyas

housewives.Boxedcakemixeswereaprimeexample.Whentheyfirsthitthesceneinthe1950s,ahomemakerneededtoaddonlywater.Womendreadedtheguiltofservingsuchacake,nottomentionthedepressingfauxeggflavor.Sodespiteinitialinterest,salesremainedstagnant.Researchersfoundthatcookswantedmoreinvolvementwiththeircakesinordertohavethenecessaryprideofownershipthatgoeswithbaking.Foodscientistsnevercaredfortheoutcomeofcakesusingdriedeggwhitesanyway,sotheychangedtheformulasothathomecookscouldparticipatebyaddingeggs.Howdelightful!Womencouldhavetheirboxedcakeandcontribute,too.Withthatsubtlechange,thesalesofcakemixesskyrocketed.Evennow,manyboxedfoodsrequiretheadditionofeggs,milk,butter,oil,or

margarine,eventhoughit’sunnecessarygiventhestateoffoodscience.Butbyrequiringthoseingredients,theygivetheperceptionof“cooking”withouttoomuchfuss.However,the“shortcut”ofboxedcakemixestypicallyincludestwenty-twoto

thirty-threeingredients,manyofthempolysyllabicchemicals.Afriendofminemajoredinchemistryincollegeandlaterwenttoworkforamajorfoodcompany.Tothisday,herefusestoeatultraprocessedfoods.Onereasonisthatthemethodtoapprovefoodadditivesrequiresthatindividualingredientsbetestedandweighedinisolation,andasaresultnoonehasanyideahowtheyallinteracttogether.“Whenitcomestofoodadditives,we’rethemice,”hesaid.33Thatisn’tallbad.Scientistslovemice.Well,theymakegreatsubjects,

anyway.InTheEndofOvereating,authorDr.DavidA.Kesslerdocumentsthedecades-longpursuitofscientistsworkingforfoodmanufacturerstofine-tuneheavilyprocessedandfast-foodfare.Theirgoal:tohita“sweetspot”oftheholytrinityoffat,salt,andsugar,tryingtoturnjusttherightkeystounlockadopamineresponseinyourbrain.Dopaminetriggersneurotransmitterstoprovideanartificiallyenhancedpleasureresponse.Findingthatcombinationforthemislikethesceneinoldmovieswhereaguyusesastethoscopetolistenforclicksinahugebankvault.Suddenly,hehearsthelastclickand,voilà!Thesafeopens.Thegoaloffoodscienceisn’tflavorbutconsumption.“Whenscientistssaya

foodispalatable,theyarereferringprimarilytoitscapacitytostimulatetheappetiteandpromptustoeatmore,”Kesslernoted.Forexample,eatahandfulofblueberriesandyou’reeasilysatiatedbythe

naturalsugar.Notsowithanultraprocessedfrozenblueberrywaffle.Eventhescentthatescapesthetoasterhasbeencarefullyorchestratedtoheightenyour

scentthatescapesthetoasterhasbeencarefullyorchestratedtoheightenyouranticipation.Perhapsyoudon’teventhinkittastesgreat,yetyoustillwantanotherone...andperhapsanotherone.Thisoddresponsetriggeredinthebrainledresearcherstofindthatratsfedasteadydietofjunkfoodquicklybecomeaddictedtoit.Waitingfortheirdopaminefixfromhigh-sugar,fatty,andsaltytreats,theyrejectedtheirnormal“ratchow.”Someofthemstarvedtodeath.Notably,serioushabit-formingdrugssuchascocaineorherointriggerthesameresponseintherats.Targetingthisreactionisthereasonwhymorethanthree-quartersofthe

sodiumthatAmericansconsumecomesfromultraprocessedconvenienceandfastfoods.Doesacupofsoupreallyneed38percentofanadult’srecommendeddailysaltintaketotastegood?No.Doesapieceoffrozenlasagnaneedthreeteaspoonsofsugar,theequivalentoftheamountinaglazeddoughnut?No.Butbothdoifthemanufacturerswantyoutobuymoresoupandmorelasagna.Thisexplainscravingsforpotatochipsorfastfood.It’salsowhysome

childrenrejectnonprocessedfood.Ittakesverylittletimefortinyhaywiredbrains,hungryfordopamine,torejectanythingotherthanwhatmightmatchthehigh-fat,high-salt,andhigh-sugarmakeupofchickennuggets,afrozenpizza,oraboxofmacaroniandcheese.Jodi’ssoncametomind.“It’ssohard,”Joditoldmeabouttryingtofeedhersonsomethingotherthanhispreferredkid’sdiet.“Idomyfreakin’besttobepatient,butthenwehavethesescenes.SoIadmitit,alotofthetimeIjustgiveinandgivehimwhathewants.”Manynutritionistsbelievetoddlersshouldconsumenomorethan1,000

milligramsofsodiumaday;theUSDAcites1,500milligrams.YetonecanofCampbell’scondensedalphabetvegetablesoupcontains2,100milligrams.Thatcupofsouphasateaspoonandahalfofsugar,thesameamountthat’sinasliceofapplepie.Mostpackagedfoodsareengineeredtomimicapharmacopoeiaofflavors,

evenifyou’reexpectedtoconsciouslytasteonlyone.Themorecomplextheflavor,themoreyou’lleat.Thisexplainscomplicatedvariationsoffriedchickenordippingsaucesforchickennuggets.Butresearchsuggeststhatwhenoneortwoflavorsdominate,peopleeatless.“There’stheobviousfactthatthesinglemostimportantthingaboutfoodis

taste,”saysDr.DavidKatz,authorofTheFlavorPointDiet.“Ifweknowthatlimitingfoodtosimpleflavorscausespeopletofillupfaster,itreallymakessensethathavingawidevarietyofflavorsengineeredintofoodswouldmakepeoplefillupslowerandneedtoeatmore.Ifyouarechoosingsimplerfoods...

youwillfillupfasteronfewercalories.”Allofthesearegreatreasonstolearntopayattentiontolabelsandfocuson

cookingsimplefoods.Soforthenextclass,IbroughtinBeveKindblade.Shehadbeenanutritionistfornineteen-plusyearsandIlikedherpragmaticapproach.Thecrewwouldn’tbecooking,soIluredtheminwithdinner.Butwhattoservefordinnerwhenanutritionistcomescalling?WemadelentilsoupandorganicgreenstoppedwithaquickstrawberryvinaigretteandbakedupsomefreshwholewheatbaguettethatMikewasexperimentingwithathome.Bevestartedbycasuallyaskingthegroupsomequestions.“Sojustwhat

bringsyoutoaclasslikethis?”Genwentfirst.“Soit’skindoffunny,butmymotherwasinsultedwhenshe

foundoutthatIwastakingacookingclass,”shesaid.Growingup,hermotherhadaskedhertomakedinnersonMondaynights.“Shesaid,‘Itaughtyouhowtocook!Whydoyouneedaclass?WhatdidIdowrong?’SoIhadtosay,‘Oh,yes,Mom,you’reright,youtaughtme.Ijustwasn’tlistening.’”“Didsheteachyouanything?”Beveask.Genthoughtaboutit.“TheonlythingthatIreallyrememberwastunacurry.

It’sacanoftunamixedwithcurrypowderandsourcream.ButIstilldon’tknowhowtomakethateither.”“Thatsoundskindofdisgusting,”Terrisaid.“Itkindofwas,”Gensaid.“That’sprobablywhyIdidn’tlearntocookfrom

her.”“IenjoygoingoutalotmorethanIlikecooking,”TerritoldBeve.“Ifeellike

thehassleofcookingforjustmeisn’tworthit.ButnowthatI’vegothighbloodpressure,mydoctorwantsmetocutsodium,andthat’shardtodoifyoueatalotoffastfood,whichIdo.”“Iknowwhatyoumean,”Drisaid.“Idon’teatalotoffastfood,butIhaveto

saythatwhenIcook,Itendtomakealot.Maybeit’sfromgrowingupinabigfamily.ThenIeattoomuchofitorIhaveleftoversforever.”Bevelistenedtoalltheirstorieswithgenuineinterest.Thenshespokeabout

herself,hervoicefullofSoutherntwang.Herdecisiontogointothefieldcamefromherown“What’sinthebox?”moment.GrowingupinNorthCarolinafarmingcountry,Criscowasapantrystapleusedforeverything.“Heck,IevenwontheCriscoisCookingAwardandstillhavethetrophy!Sowhywouldashorteninggetmeinterestedinnutrition,anyway?BecauseIaskedonesimplequestion:Howisitmade?”ShelearnedthatCriscowasaman-madeproductthatshiftednaturalliquidplantoilintoasolidthatdoesn’treallyexistinnature.“My

responsewas,Ifitdoesn’texistinnature,howdoesmybodyknowwhattodowithit?Butnoonethencouldreallyanswermyquestion.That’showmycareergotstarted.”Thegrouppaidraptattentiontothedown-to-earthBeve.“Mygoalistobring

peoplebacktothejoyofeating.Thebestmedicineforyouisgoodfood.Ihaveeighthundredpatients,andwhenIseemostofthem,they’rewipedout.”Heryoungestpatientisthreeyearsold;heroldest,ninety-one.Sheorderslabstofindnutritionalissuessuchasthoseinvolvingbloodsugar,vitaminD,orpotassium.Acoupleofpeoplenodded.Terrinotedthatshe’dheardaboutvitaminDonOprah.“It’sfunny,thiskindofstuffhastogetonOprahorDr.Ozbeforepeoplestarttobelieveit,doesn’tit?”SomeofBeve’sinformationwasnewtome.“Ifyouconsumecoffee,you

shouldwaitanhourbeforeyoueatanythingbecausethecaffeinewillstallyourbodyfromgettingnutrientsfromthefood,”shesaid.“Increasingfiberisoneofthebestthingsyoucandoinyourdiet.Ifyoueatpasta,makeitonehundredpercentwholegrain.Fiberhelpsdropyoursugar.Ihaveoneclientwhoseweightcanfluctuatebysixtypoundsjustbasedonhowmuchriceheeats.”Mostpeoplehavecravingsduetodeficiencies.“Ifyouincreaseproteinin

yourdiet,cravingsforcarbohydratesandsweetsgoaway.Itdoesn’tmatteriftheproteincomesfrommeat,fish,orbeans.”Forpeoplewhoeatmeat,shesuggestsconsuminghalfasmuch,butspendingthesameamountofmoneytobuybetterquality.Grass-fedbeefdoesn’thikeupcholesterolorestrogenlevelsandincludesmoreomega-3fattyacidsthantraditionalbeef.“Ifyounormallyuseapoundofgroundbeefinspaghettioreataneight-ouncesteak,halvetheamountandbuygrass-fedbeefinstead.”Sheadvocatedreadinglabelsoneverything.“A‘healthnutmuffin’soldata

coffeeshopnearmyofficehadmoresugarthancakedoes,”shesaid.Butthenamewouldleadonetobelievethatit’shealthy.“Youwantmuffins?Makeyourownandcutdownthesugar.Learntomakeyourownsaladdressings,too.”“Wedidthat!Imakevinaigretteallthetimenow,”Genpipedup.“It’sso

easy.”Bevenodded.“Yes,itis.Bylearningtomakesomesimplethingsyou’d

normallybuyprepared,you’llbeamazedathoweasilyyoucanavoidingredientslikehigh-fructosecornsyrup,cornstarch,thehydrogenatedoils,sodium,thatsortofthing.Weconsumewaytoomuchsoyinourdiet,especiallysoybeanoil.”Dritookalotofnotes.Shehadbeenpracticingeverylessonathome.Weight

hadbeenanissueforherforyears,andpartofherinterestincookingwasto

hadbeenanissueforherforyears,andpartofherinterestincookingwastosimplyeatahealthierdiet.“I’mfindingthatasImakemoreofmyownfood,Idon’twantsomeofthethingsthatIusedtoeat.Imean,IlookatboxesofpastaorricedishesandIthinkthatdoesn’tevenappealtomeanymore.”Terrinodded.“Thethingwithme,though,isthatIwouldprobablynotbe

goodatmemorizingalotofrules,orIdon’twanttochangewhatI’meatingtoomuch.Imean,afterlisteningtoallthis,I’mthinkingthatfastfood,forsure,simplyhastogo.”Beve’sbasicrulesweresimple.“Myclientscaneatalmostanythingaslongas

aservingexceedsthreegramsoffiberandhaslessthansixgramsofsugarandmorethansixgramsofprotein.Thatprettymucheliminatesninetypercentofthepreparedstuffyoufindinthesupermarket.”Mostconveniencefoodsfallshortofthefiberrequirementnotonlyduetothe

natureofprocessingbutalsobecausetheidealshelf-stablefoodslackfiber.Theirsofterstatemakesthemeasiertofreezeandship,aswellasfastertoconsume.Plusfiberfills.That’snotgoodformanufacturerswhowantyoutoeatalot.That’stheirprofitmargin.Ihadseenapresentationcalled“Sugar:TheBitterTruth”byRobertH.

Lustig.Hearguesthatsugarinanyformisbadnews.“Whengodmadethepoison,hepackageditwiththeantidote.Sugarcaneisastick.Youcan’tevenchewit,”hesaid.WhenImentionedthattoBeve,sheagreedthateveryoneconsumestoomuch

sugar,oftenwithoutknowingit.“Foodlabelsdon’thelp.”Sugarislistedingramsonnutritionlabels,andthere’sno“dailyrequirement”forsugar.“Whynot?Youdon’treallyneedfructose.Youcangetallthesugaryouneedfromcarbohydrates,dairy,andfruit.Thelastthingyouneedissugaraddedtofood.Butifyou’regoingtoeatsomethinglikecake,makeitfromscratch,notabox.”Herreasoning,inpart,isthatyou’llseethesugaryou’recreamingintothebutter.“Mostsugarissohiddenthatyouneverknowit’sthere.”Lisahadbeensittingnexttome.Shegotupandstartedlookingatthelabels

onvariousitemsinthekitchen.Shequietlycameback,satdown,andwhispered,“Howmuchsugarisinagram,anyway?”Ididn’tknow.Ilaterchecked.Fourgramsequalsateaspoonofsugar,soatablespoonistwelvegrams.AsIbegantoroutinelynotethesugaroneverycan,jar,orbottleIpickedup,IwassurprisedtofindthesugarslurkinginfoodsIdidn’tnecessarilyconsidersweetened,suchasgranolabars,yogurt,orevenketchup;atablespoonofthelattercontainsafullteaspoonofsugar.Bevefieldedahailofquestions.Arefrozenfruitsandvegetablesagood

choice?“Sure,”Beveanswered.“Sometimesfrozenvegetablesareactually

choice?“Sure,”Beveanswered.“Sometimesfrozenvegetablesareactuallybetterthanfreshvegetables,astheyhaven’tbeenshippedalongdistanceandmayhavemorenutrientsstillintact.”Whataboutfat?“Fatisn’tnecessarilybad.Somefatsaregood.Ithink

everyonecoulduseeatinghalfanavocadoeveryday,”shesaid.“Transfats,anythingthat’shydrogenated,that’snotgood.Butyou’rebetteroffeatingalittlefatthaneatingalotofsomethingthat’snonfat.Oftennonfatstuffhasadditionalsugarinit.”Herfinalconclusion:It’syourlife.Noonewilljudgeyoufororderingina

pizzaeverysooftenorifyouhavetheoccasionalhitoframennoodlesforlunch.“Butwhenitcomesrightdowntoit,MichaelPollanhaditright.Don’teatanythingthatyourgrandmotherwouldn’trecognizeasfood,oratleastdon’teatitallthetime,”Bevesaid.“Justeatsimply.Ifyoucookmoreandyouthinkaboutit,evenjustgetinthehabitofreadinglabels,you’remorethanhalfwaythere.”

Mike’sYellowCake

Mostoff-the-shelfcakemixesarefilledwithexcessivesugars,hydrogenatedoils,andotheradditives.Consideringthataboxedcakerequiresgettingoutamixerorbeatertoaddatleastthreeingredients,considertryingonefromscratch.Youcanuseameshorsmall-holedcolandertosifttheflourifyoudon’thaveasifter.Youjustwanttogetridoflumpsandaddsomeair.It’sbesttomeasuretheflourafteryou’vesiftedit.Cakeflourwillyieldthebestresults,butall-purposeflourwillworkifyoudon’thaveit,ormakeyourownasnotedbelow.Justbeawarethatplainall-purposeflourwillresultinadenser,flatter,andpale-coloredcake.ThisisbasedonarecipefromthefolksatWilton,thebakingandcakedecoratinggoodscompany.3cupssiftedcakeflour(300grams),or2 cupssiftedall-purposeflour(300grams)2 teaspoonsbakingpowderteaspoonsalt1 cupssugar6tablespoonsunsalted,softenedbutter( cupor150grams)1 teaspoonsvanilla2eggs1 cupsmilkPreheattheovento350°F.Greasethebottomsoftwo8-inchroundcakepans;

linethebottomswithwaxpaperorparchmentpaper.Sifttogethertheflour,bakingpowder,andsalt;setaside.Withanelectricmixeronmedium-highspeed,beatthesugarandbutter

togetheruntiltheybecomelightandfluffy,atleast5minutes.Addthevanilla,thenbeatintheeggsoneatatimeuntilthoroughlyincorporated,about4minutes.Next,addone-thirdoftheflourmixture,thenhalfthemilk,thenmoreflour

mixture,thentherestofthemilk,andendwiththerestoftheflourmixture,beatingwellaftereachaddition.Whenit’sallcombined,beatforonemoreminute.Spreadthebatterevenlyintothepreparedpans.Bakefor25to35minutes,

untilawoodenpickinsertedinthecentercomesoutclean.Coolforatleast10minutesbeforeremovingfromthepans.Coolcompletelybeforefrosting.NoteYoucanmakeyourownversionofcakeflourbysifting cupall-purposeflour(84grams)with2tablespoonscornstarch(15grams)foreachcupofcakeflourcalledforinarecipe.

CreamyChocolateFrosting

Makingyourownfrostingeliminatesheavydosesofcornsyrupandpartiallyhydrogenatedoils,whichformthebulkofmostcannedfrostings.Ifthisgetstooslipperyforfrostingacake,tossitinthefridgeforafewminutestoletitthicken.Don’tskipthesiftingofthesugarandcocoaasthatwouldchangethetextureofthefrosting.Don’tbotherusingfancycocoapowdersorblendshere;plaincocoapowdersuchasHershey’swillprovidethebestoutcome.2 cupconfectioners’sugar6tablespoonscocoapowder6tablespoonsbutter,softened5tablespoonsevaporatedor2percentmilk1teaspoonvanillaextractSifttogethertheconfectioners’sugarandcocoa;setaside.Usingamixerorabeater,creamthebutteruntilsmooth.Graduallyshakein

thesugar-cocoamixture,alternatingwiththemilk.Whenalliscombinedthoroughly,addthevanilla.Beatuntillightandfluffy.Addmoremilkorcocoapowderifneededtoadjustconsistencyandtotaste.

CHAPTER12WasteNot,WantNot LESSONHIGHLIGHTS:UsingYour

LeftoversCanSaveMoneyandHelptheWorld

ForthefouryearsIlivedinLondon,IheldatraditionalThanksgivingdinner.MostpeopleoutsideNorthAmericaseemconfusedbythewholeconcept.AnEnglishfriendonceasked,“SowhatdoesThanksgivinghavetodowiththeFourthofJulyagain?”ItmaytaketheisolationofexpatriationtoappreciatethecuriousnatureofThanksgiving.WecommemorateaholidaypromptedbythemostpuritanicalofChristianswithoneofthesevendeadlysins,gluttony.ThereasonfortheoriginalThanksgiving,atleasttheoneattributedtothe

Pilgrims,34wastocelebratebountyinatimeotherwisegrippedbyhunger,sincethePuritansspentthebulkoftheirtimeandresourcesfiguringouthowtoavoidstarvingtodeath.ManythingsinterestmeaboutThanksgiving.It’soneoftherareopportunities

whenmostpeoplegivegenuinethoughttomealplanning,cookawholeanimal,makealotoffoodfromscratch,andcelebratetheuseofleftovers.Partoftheexperienceoftheholidayisthenatureofthefeast,eachpersonassignedarole,fromsettingthetabletomashingpotatoestocraftingapie.Ofcourse,that’sbeforeeveryonefallsasleepinatryptophanhazeinfrontof

thetelevision.Asmyhusbandlikestopointout,theoccasionalCowboysandRedskinsfootballgamesscheduledonthedaydemonstratejusthowfarwe’vedriftedfromthewholeconceptofthatfirstThanksgivingwithourNativeAmericanhosts.Evenastheybemoanfoodprices,Americanconsumersaregenerallyunaware

thattheyspendlessoftheirwagesonfoodthananyothercountryintheworld;justunder10percentoftheirpaychecks.35Comparethatto1900,when40percentofwageswenttowardfood.Around1960,thefirsttimetheamountspentonfoodwasnolongerthebiggestexpenditure,thefigurewasabout25percent.Thedecliningcostcomeswiththeriseofindustrializationoffarmingpracticesandtheshiftofeverythingweeat—frompigstocowstoorangejuice—intomass-producedmerchandise.Perhapsit’sthelackofinvestmentthatleadstoacavalierattitudetoward

Perhapsit’sthelackofinvestmentthatleadstoacavalierattitudetowardfood.Wemaygivethanksforourbountyonceayear,butthenasacountrywecollectivelywasteabout40percentofthefoodproducedforconsumptiontherestofthetime.AnthropologistTimothyJonesspentmorethanadecadestudyingfoodwaste.Hisresearchfindsthatsomecropssitabandonedorunharvestedinthefieldswherethey’regrown.Supermarketsorsuppliersdiscardanotherfewpercentdismissedastooimperfectforretail.Therest—about25to30percent—wethrowawayathome.Thatfoodgoesintolandfillstorot,whereitemitscloudsofmethane,agreenhousegasmoretoxicanddamagingthancarbonmonoxide.“Bytreatingediblesasadisposablecommodity,weteachourchildrennotto

valuefood,”saysJonathanBloom,authorofthebookAmericanWasteland:HowAmericaThrowsAwayNearlyHalfofItsFood(andWhatWeCanDoAboutIt).Heputsthefigureonwhatwewasteatmorethan$100billionannually.ThisjivedwithwhatIfoundintheinterviewswiththevolunteersandthekitchenvisitsandwhatIobservedinmyownhouseandinthehomesoffriends.Afewofthevolunteersagreedtokeepajournalofwhattheybought,ate,andthrewoutfortwoweeks.Theresult?Theyreportedlesswasteduetotheguilttheyfeltknowingtheyhadtowriteitdown,buteventhen,anaverageof18percentoftheirgrocerybillswentintothetrash.Butwhydowewastesomuch?BothJonesandBloomoffersomeinteresting

insights.First,peopleoftenshopforthelifetheyaspireto,nottheirrealone.Everyone

knowsthatthey’resupposedtoeatfruitandvegetables,sowestockuponperishables.Sincemostpeopledon’tplanmealsfortheweek,thosebeetsorgreensthatlookedsogreatatthefarmers’marketsituntouchedasweendupeatingconveniencefoods.Withproperplanning,buyinginbulkorloadingupontwofor-onedealscanbeagenuinemoneysaver;withoutaplan,it’sjustarecipetodoubleortripletheamountoffoodtossedaway.Dr.TrubekfromtheUniversityofVermonthasstudiedtheactivitiesofhome

cooksforyears.Toher,thegreatestlackofskillwhenitcomestocookingisn’ttheinabilitytowieldaknife.“Planningmenusisthegreatestskillthatwe’vecollectivelylost,”shesaid.“That,andwhattodowithleftovers.”Fortunately,Ifoundtwopeopletohelpoutwithbothsubjects.Aspartofmysearchforvolunteers,Ihadbeenaguestonaradioshowwith

celebritychefsTomDouglasandThierryRautureau.Aweekaftertheshow,ChefThierrye-mailedme.“I’mcuriousaboutyourplan.Wouldyoulikesome

help?”AsInotedearlier,ThierryhostedaregularradiosegmentcalledWhat’sintheFridge?Callerswoulddialinanddiscussthecontentsoftheirkitchen,andChefThierrywouldoffersuggestions.Thierryhadwalkedcallersthroughusingeverythingfromsliversofavocadototoomuchzucchinitohalfaturkey.Ifanyonecouldinspiresomeonetouseleftovers,hewastheman.ChefThierrywalkedintoourkitcheninshorts,atastefultropicalshirt,and

flip-flops,hisexpensivechef’sjacketflungoverhisshoulder.“Iamhere!”heannouncedwithaflourish,smilingandextendinghisarmina

wideembrace.ThierryhastheclassicdarkcoloringofaFrenchmanandimmediatelyownsaroom.“Meschéris,doyouhaveanythingforacocktail?Tonightismynightoff.”Thatweek,peoplewerecrazyfromtheheat.Thetemperaturespikedupto

103degrees—arecord.Lisawenttofiveplaceslookingforiceandfoundalonebagstrandedatthebottomofanicecaseatagasstation.Wechiseledanareaoutofthepackedstand-upfreezerforoursacredbag.Wepresentedhimwithabowlofitandledhimovertothefridge.JeffandMikemovedaroundthetableandchairstosetupanersatzdemoareaasThierrydemonstratedhisfirstuseofleftovers,apitcherofcocktailsfromremnantvodka,vermouth,andlimes.Hehelduphisglassandsmackedhislipsaftertastinghiscreation.“Ah!Fantastique!NowIcantalkleftovers!”Forhim,teachingpeoplenottowastefoodispersonal.Hegrewuponasmall

farmintheMuscadetregionofFranceinanareawherecowsandchickensoutnumberedpeople.Hisfamilycookedonlywhattheygrew,andastheoldestchild,Thierryroutinelytookonthetaskofhelpingwithdinner.Hisfamilyatemeatonlyonceaweek,usuallyonSundays.Heremembersmanyleantimes.Atagefourteen,hestartedanapprenticeshipwithalocalrestaurant,trainingthateventuallytookhimthroughoutFrance,toChicago,andultimatelytoSeattle.OneofthebestmealsI’vehadinmyentirelifewasathisrestaurantRover’s.Thesimpleroastedsquabsatinawarmbathofseafoodnage,akindoflightbroth.Iqualifythatmealasanearsexualexperience;itwasembarrassingtoeatinfrontofthetwopeoplewithmeatthetable.Thiskindofreactionmayaccountforthepopularityofhisrestaurants.Withacelebritychefasateacher,thevolunteersturnedupinforce,afew

bringingalongfriendsorfamilymembers.Asthecrowdspilledin,Thierryputhischef’sjacketoverhisshirtanddownedhisdrink.“Ah,thechefmuststayhydrated,”hesaidashepouredanother.Iwelcomedeveryonein.“Nodiaperstoday,youarejustgoingtowatch.”

Everyonetookaseat.

Everyonetookaseat.“ButIwantChefThierrytoseemyknife,”Sabrasaid,disappointmentinher

voice,asshesatdownnexttoGen.“Oh,speakingofthat,Igotanewknife,”Gensaid.“AndIjustboughta

wholechickenyesterday.Itwassomuchcheaperthanbuyingthechickenbreastsalreadyseparated.MyboyfriendwasprettyconfusedabouthowIamgoingtoturnthiswholechickenintofajitas,butheshallsoonseehowit’sdone.”Dripipedin.“Oh,Ibuythemallthetimenow.I’mgettingsofastatit.I

mean,they’renotthemostbeautifulpiecesofchicken,buttheytastethesame,right?”“Iroastedachicken,too,”Shannonadded.“AndIhavetosaythatI’verarely

donethatbecauseIwassoscaredofundercookingit.Wehavetwomeatthermometersandneitherseemedtowork.Onesaiditwas130degreesandtheotheronesaiditwas230degrees.Iwaslike,What’sgoingonwiththischicken?SoIpulledthelegsawaytotocheckonthejuicesandpiercedthethightotellifitwasdone.Myhusbandwaslike,‘Howdidyouknowtodothat?’ItwaslikeaJeditrickorsomething.”“Hey,haveanyofyoumadethebread?”Trishasked.Jodi,Shannon,Dri,and

Cherylsaidtheyhadatleastonce.“Minedidn’tturnout.Iwonderifmyyeastwasbad.”Astheystartedtodiscusstheirvariousbreadexperiences,ChefThierryclappedhishandsatthedemonstrationtable.Almostimmediately,sweatbeadedonhisneck.Itfeltaboutathousanddegreesinthekitchen.“I’mnotgoingtoturnonthestovesinceit’sarecordheatdayhere,yes?”said

Thierry,theseasonedcharmer.“SoWhat’sintheFridge?isbasedonaverysimpleideathathappensineveryhome,evenmine.”Peoplebuyingredientsforarecipebutdon’tusethemall.Orthey’releftwithbitsofrandomfood.It’seasytothrowthoseout.“InAmerica,wehaveafullfridgeandit’ssofullthatwecan’tevenclosethe

door.Peoplelookinsideatthisstuffedfridgeandthink,There’snothingtoeat!Ialwayswonder,Whatareyouwaitingfor?Ahandtoholdoutasandwichforyou?Butoneofthemostimportantthingstolearninlifeistonourishyourselfandthosearoundyou.I’vebeendoingitforthirty-fiveyears,whichisamazingconsideringthatIamonlythirty-nineyearsold!”ImentionedtohimthatIhadjusttakenpartinachallengepostedbyafood

writerfriend,KimO’Donnel,aspartofthenationalmovementcalled“EatingDowntheFridge.”Theideaistoavoidbuyinggroceriesforaweek,andinsteadtrytousetheremnantfoodinstead.

“Ilovethat!”Thierryapproved.Hesuggestedputtingafavoritephotointhebackofthefridgeandfreezer.“You’llwanttoseeit,andifyoucan’t,there’ssomethingwrong.Yourfridgeshouldn’tbethatfull.”Usingupolderproductsfirstisknownasrotationinrestaurants.Homecooks

needtolearnit,hesaid.“Buyonepepper,notthree.Buythreepotatoes,notthreepounds.You’llhavelesswasteanditwillhelpyouasacook.“Ifyouhavelessfoodinyourfridgeitwillactuallypushyoutocookbetter.

Youwillhavetomakesomethingdifferent.Itwillforcesubstitutions.Youthink,Idon’thaveagreenpepperbut,oh,wait,Ihaveazucchini,soIwilltrythat.It’sagoodthing.That’showyoulearn.”Peoplegiveuponfoodtooeasily.Theythrowoutawholeappleduetoone

dentthatcouldeasilybecutaway.“Thatzucchinithatlooksalittlesofttoday?It’slikeanything,likepayingbills.Themoreyouavoidit,theworseitgets.Itwillneverlookanybetter.Itwilljustlookworseinaweekwhenyougetaroundtothrowingitout.”Thierryhassomefundamentalstrategies.“Soupisagiftforleftovers.Inthe

summer,Ilovetomakecoldsoups;inthewinter,Imakehotsoups.”Hewillunloadalltheunusedvegetablesfromhisfridge.“Gethalfanonion,caramelizeit,addyourleftovervegetables,somewaterorstock;itdoesnottakelongtomake.”Saladsarebigwithhim.“Itiseasy,andit’salmostlikenotreallycooking.”Withthat,wewenttothefridge.Everyoneshiftedofftheirseatstothesetofhandsomeuprightcommercial

fridges.Bythispoint,wehadaccumulatedleftoversfromallthevariousclasses.Wehadalsoaskedpeopletobringinleftovers.Sabrabroughtintheremnantsofacheeseburgerandfries;someoneelsebroughtinahard-boiledegg;another,leftoverchickensalad.“Wow,thisissowellstocked,wewilleatlikecochontonight,”Thierrysaid,

tossingouttheFrenchwordfor“pig”ashepawedthroughthebounty,whichincludedmushrooms,basil,garlic,eggs,lemonhalves,bellpeppers,aredonion,andvariouscheeses.“Wow,thisisfun,butthisisprobablyalotmorefoodthanyouhaveathome.Mostofyouhavethingsmorelikethat,”hesaid,pickingupthebitofchickensalad.“Oh,look,here’ssomezucchini.”Somevolunteerstradedglances.“We’vecutupalotofzucchini,”Terrisaid.JeffsetdownabigbowlforThierrytocollecthischoicesfromthefridge.He

starteddroppingtheproduceintoit.Thenhecametosomecreamleftoverfromlastmonth.“Oh,thisdoesn’tgointodinner.Thisshouldgointoamuseum!”hesaid.Hestumbledontotomatoes.“Oh,no,tomatoesinthefridge.”Uh-oh,Iput

Hestumbledontotomatoes.“Oh,no,tomatoesinthefridge.”Uh-oh,Iputthoseinthere.“Neverdothis,doyouknowwhy?”heaskedthegroup.Trishraisedherhand.“Becauseitkillstheflavor?”Thierrypointedatherandthenslappedhishandstogetherinaffirmation.

“Yes!Lemonsshouldn’treallygointhefridgeeither.”Heconcentratedagainonthefridgeandtookoutanearlyemptyjarof

mustard.Heturnedtothegroup.“Loveit.Thisisgreat.Yougettothebottomofajarofmustard,youaddsomelemon”—hepickeduphalfalemonfromthebowl—“andthensomeoliveoilandshakeitup.Voilà,youhavevinaigrette.Orjustaddsomevinegarandcanolaoil.Usewhat’sinyourhouse;that’sthenameofthegame.”“Welearnedtomakevinaigrette,butIlovethetipaboutthemustardjar,”

Shannonsaid.“Youcoulddothatwiththeendofthejaminajar,too.”“Ortheendofabottleofoliveoil,sincethere’salwayssomeonthesides,”

Driadded.Iconjuredupmanyoptions:thebottomofajarofpesto,soysauce,balsamic

vinegar,orsesameoil.“That’sagreattip,Chef,”Isaid.Hestumbledontoabouquetofparsley.“Greens,storethemlikeflowers,the

stemsinsomewater.Andabatchofparsleylikethis?”Heheldupabunchofthegreenstuff.“Itisamassiveamountforacoupleofpeople.Makeakindofpestosaucewithit.Chopitupinafoodprocessorwitholiveoil,garlic,perhapswalnuts.Freezeitinicecubetrays.Itwillbeafrozencubeofgreen.Youcanthentakesomehot,drainedpastaandtossinacubeofthepesto,oryoucanaddittothetopofsteamedorroastedvegetables.YouwilllooklikeMarthaStewart!”“Thatcouldbeagreatflavoringforchicken,”Driobserved.Hisinventorycomplete,hebroughthischoicesbacktothedemonstration

tableandeveryonesatdownagain.Lisacirculatedmoreicewater.Thetrafficwasloudoutside,soweclosedthedoorsothatThierrycouldbeheard,buttheheatbecameunbearable.Thierrywavedforustoopenthedoorandjusttalkedlouder.“It’ssotemptingtooverbuy,butdisciplineyourself,”hesaid.“Don’tbuy

enoughfruitforthenexttwomonths.Buyitjustforthenexttwodays.Justbecauseyoucanbuysomethingdoesn’tmeanyoushould.Thathalfflatofraspberries?Yes,itlooksgreat.Butthat’ssixpints,it’salot.YouneedaPlanAandaPlanBandaPlanConwhattodowiththatmuch.We’velosttheartofpreservingandofcanning,thewholeideaofharvest,”hesaid.“Thereisseasonalitytofood,butwedon’tfeelit.Therewasatraditiontogetasmuchas

youcouldfromtheharvestandsaveitfortheyear.”Ithoughtaboutthatpoint.Weliveinatimewhenyoucangetpeachesin

JanuaryinClevelandthankstoaninternationaltransportationsystemthatcanshipfoodlongdistances.InAmerica,foodcomesfromsunnierstatessuchasCaliforniaandFlorida,Mexico,orCentralorSouthAmerica.InEurope,thefoodcomesfromSpain,Turkey,orvariousAfricancountries.Thierryadvisedthatifyoubuytoomuch,youcandohomeIQF,whichstands

for“individuallyquickfrozen.”Spreadberriesorvegetablesonatray,freezethem,andwhenfrozen,putthemintoaplasticbag.“InJanuary,youcanpulloutahandfulontoyourpancakesandit’ssummeragain.”Hetookasipofhiscolddrinkandmoppedhisfacewithadiaper.Allthevolunteershadsmalllegalpads.Henoticed.“Iseeyouwriting.Here’s

anassignment.Gohome.Openyourfridge.Takeeverythingout.Tossoutonlythetrulybadexpiredstuff.Thencomeupwithaplantousewhat’sleft.”Thisisespeciallytruewithspices,hesaid.“Mostpeoplehaveamuseumof

spices.Ifyouhavespicesthataremorethantwoyearsold,tossthemout.Findaplacethatsellsspicesinbulkandbuyoneounceofallthespicesyouthinkyou’lluse.Afterayear,seehowmuchyou’veused.Whenyouhavefreshspices,you’llnotice.Everythingwilltastesomuchbetter.Youwilltastecinnamon,notdust.”ThenChefmadeasalad.Hestartedtodiscussonions.“Iliketocaramelize

them;itaddssomuchflavor.”Hepickedupaknifeandgotreadytochop.“Doyouallknowhowtochopanonion?Doesanyonewanttocomeupandchopwithme?”Sabraboltedherhandintheair.“We’reprofessionalsatthat,”shedeclared.

Shejumpeduptocutwiththechef.Thierrychoppedhisonion,afluidmotion.Sabrathenchoppedhersquicklyandconfidently.Thierryraisedhiseyebrows.“Ah,youdoknowhowtochopanonion.Iamimpressed.”ChefshowedSabrahowtoskinabellpepper,atrickytechniquethatinvolved

slidingtheknifeunderthepepper.Sabradidit.Sheraisedherhandsoverherheadinvictory.GenandShannonhighfivedherasSabrareturnedtoherseat.“Youallareverygood.Youmusthaveagoodteacher,”hesaid,andwinkedatme.Nottobeoutshonebyatwenty-three-year-oldprodigy,Cheffinelysliceda

tomatointopaper-thinslicesandthencurvedthemintoacircle,aclassicFrenchtechnique.Hebrieflysautéedtheonions,addingstripsofthepeeledredpepper.Heplacedthemartfullyintothecenteroftheslicedtomatoandtoppedthedishwithadrizzleofbalsamicvinegar,choppedbasil,andasprinkleofgrated

withadrizzleofbalsamicvinegar,choppedbasil,andasprinkleofgratedParmigiano-Reggiano.Finally,hetoppeditoffwithtwoanchovies.“Itisnicetoreallythinkaboutdifferentwaystomakesalad.Youdonot

necessarilyneedlettuce,see?Itdoesn’ttaketoomanycomponentstomakeitwork.It’sfunny,mostpeopleareafraidofmessinguptheirkitchensbycooking.Iwanttoask,Howdoyoufeelaboutyourbedroom?”hesaid,raisinganeyebrow.Thenhepresentedhisdish.Itwasbeautiful,withthedeepredofthetomatoes

setagainstthegreenofthebasilandzucchiniandthevelvetycaramelizedonions.“Trustyourself.Yes,Iamachef,butIamlikeallofyou.Ijustwant

somethinggoodtoeatafteralongdayworking,”hesaid.“Ibelieveallofyoucandoit.Provemeright.”Withthat,thecheftookabow,tippedhishat,andthecrowdapplauded.“YouknowwhatIhavefordinnersomenights?Freshbread,jam,andhotchocolate.Youdon’thavetocookeverynight.Justeatrealfood.”Thenhelookedathisglass.“Oh,no,thisisempty.Isthereanymore...

water?”Withthat,Iunderstoodwhyhewantedaclearcocktail.IknewthatChefThierrywouldbeahardacttofollow.Butthewaytoavoida

lotofleftoversinthefirstplaceistoplanmeals.Sothenextweekanotherguestspeakercametotalktothegroup.Jenny,thesupermarketchef,waddledintothekitcheneightmonthspregnant.Afair-skinnedblondewhowaslikelyawaifinherlessexaggeratedstate,shelookedtiredwhenshearrived.“I’msoexcitedtoteachtonight,butdoyouhaveastool?Ican’tstandupformorethaneightminutes.”Jennystartedherculinarycareerworkinginrestaurants(atonetimeforChef

TomDouglas,infact).Butshedecidedthatshewantedtomakemoreofanimpactonhowpeoplecookathome.Herpresentpositionwasasachefwithahigh-endgrocerywheresheinteracteddailywithshoppersandhomecooks.MostpeopleacquiretheirfoodthroughsupermarketsandJennyknowshowmarketswork.“Strategistsfigureouthowtouseeverysingleinchofasupermarkettogetthe

mostprofitoutofit,”shesaid.“Nothingislefttochance.”Fewofusrealizethatweshoppersaremiceinacomplexretailmaze.

Supermarketsspendavastamountofmoneytofigureouthowshoppersbehave.Everydetailispurposeful,fromthemusictheyplaytothesizeofthefontdeclaringsales.Forinstance,youprobablynoticethatit’schillyinasupermarket.Iusedtothinkthatwasbecausethechillhelpedtopreservethefood.Infact,coldtriggershunger.Ifyou’rehungry,you’llbuymore.Thefirstthingthatyourunintoinasupermarketistheproducesection.Thetactile

thingthatyourunintoinasupermarketistheproducesection.Thetactileexperienceoftouchingfoodandthebrightcolorsgetyouinthemoodforshopping.Themilk,flour,andcerealareinvariablyspacedfarapart.Why?Supermarketsaredesignedtoslowyoudown.Thelongeryouspendinthemazeofastoretryingtofindstaples,themorelikelyyou’llbuysomethingonimpulse.Foodmanufacturerspayforpremiumshelfplacementateyelevel,or,inthecerealaisle,attheeyelevelofchildren.“God,thatexplainswhyIhatethecerealaisle!”Shannonsaid.“Idreadit.My

kidswillcomeuptomeandsay,‘Whycan’twehavethiscereal,Mommy,it’sgotCinderellaonit?Mostofthetime,Iwillbelike,Wheredidyougetthat?Ididn’tevenseeit.”“Manufacturersalsopayforpremiumspaceattheendsofaisles,knownasthe

endcaps,”Jennysaid.“Sometimesthisstuffisonsale,sometimesnot.Alotoftimesthebestdealisnotontheendcapbutaroundthecornerintheaisle.”Terrinoddedandtooknotes.Shehadsaidduringherkitchenvisitthatshe

loathedshopping.“Ihaveneverfeltlikeaverysavvyshopper,”shesaid.“IalwayswanttogetinandgetoutandIcouldneverfigureoutwhyittooksolongorwhysometimesIwouldpickupstuffthatIthoughtwasonsale,likeontheendstands,andthenitwasn’t.”LikeThierry,Jennypulledleftoveritemsoutofthefridge.WhileThierrywas

classicallytrainedviatherigorsoftheFrenchapprenticesystem,Jennyhadearnedherdegreefromawell-respectedprogramatalocalcommunitycollege.Yetmuchoftheirmessageswerethesame.“Ifyouwanttosavemoneyandeatwell,worrylessaboutbuyinginbulkor

what’sonsale,”Jennystarted.“Thenumberonewaytosavemoneyonyourgrocerybillistonotwastefood.Youcanbuyinbulk,withinreason,onnonperishables,butforthefreshstuff,justbuylessandshopmoreoften.”Smartshoppersplanmealsandusethoroughlists.Theyalsostockuponbasic

staples.Themealplandoesn’thavetobeastrict“tunacasseroleonTuesday,”butalooserstructurethatsimplymeansplanningfiveorsixmealsfortheweek.“There’snothingwrongwitheatingthesamethingsroutinely.Thegoalisto

feedyourselfandthepeoplearoundyouwithrealfood.Cookontheweekendsanduseleftoversduringtheweek.Ifyou’lleattheleftovers,cooktwiceasmuchasyou’lleatandputtherestasideforlunches.Orcooktwicetheamountyou’lleatandfeedyourneighborsonceaweekandhavethemdothesameforyou.”“Fornightsyouhavenoplan,Itellshopperstofigureoutafewsimple

strategiesthatarequickanduseupthebitsoffoodyou’vegotinyourfridge.Somerequireverylittlecooking.IhavesomestrategiesthatIcall‘Desperation

Somerequireverylittlecooking.IhavesomestrategiesthatIcall‘DesperationDinners.’”Thefirstinvolvedawholewheatflatbread.“Youcandothiswithnaanor

tortillas,too.”Fromourleftovers,sheaddedahandfulofmozzarella,cut-uptomatoes,somegarbanzobeans,somechoppedredonion,halfaredpepper,andthenshecrackedanegginthemiddle.“Iamatrainedchef,butyouknowwhatIcookwithmostonweekdays?Ourtoasteroven.”Sheslidtheflatbreadandeggintothekitchen’stoasteroven.Shemadethree

differentversionsusingtheleftovers:abitofham,slicedParmesan,choppedleeks,zucchini,slicedmushrooms.Oneachshecrackedaneggandthenchuckeditintothetoasteroven.Whentheyemerged,theeggwhitesandyolkscooked,shetoppedthemwithahandfulofarugulalightlydressedinoliveoil.“It’saneasywaytouseupbitsofgreens,andkidslikeanythingthatlookslikeapizza.Tortillasorflatbreadskeepwell,oryoucanalwaysfreezethemandthenquicklythawforafewsecondsinthemicrowave.”Nextshedemonstrated“DesperationPasta.”Sheseasonedthewaterwithsalt

andpepper.Asthepastastartedtocook,shecutafewfloretsofbroccolioffthestemandcraftedstripsofcarrotswithavegetablepeeler.“Iliketodothiswithcarrots.Theycookquickly,andtheyaddsomenicecolor.”Shedroppedbothintothewaterasthepastafinishedcooking.Aftertwominutes,shedrainedthepastaanddroppeditintoabowlandtosseditwithahandfulofgreensandgratedcheese.“NowI’mjustgoingtotopitwithsomeoliveoil,somevinegar,andtastetoseeifitneedsmoresaltandpepper.Vinegariswildlyoverlooked.It’sgreattoaddflavor,andithasnocalories,plusithasgreatshelflife.Reallywakesupfood.”Sheexplainedtheconceptofdinnersas“layers.”Herdaughterwilleatthe

firstlayer,say,plainpastawithgratedcheeseandmaybesomebroccoli.ForJennyandherhusband,she’ll“finish”thedishwithpinenuts,choppedchilies,greens,sautéedshrimp,andsoon.“Ifyourkidsarefussy,youdon’thavetomakeacompletelydifferentdish.Justevolveitintosomethingmoresuitedforadulttastes.”Theclassaskedaboutgadgets.Shedoesn’tusemany.“Amicroplanerisgreat.

Youcanuseittogratecheese,garlic,gingerroot,justatonofstuff.”WehandedoutslicesofherDesperationPizzasandPasta.Whileeveryoneate,shediscussedmoreshoppingtactics.Makealistoffoodswithstrongflavorsthatstorewellinyourpantry—thingslikecapers,artichokehearts,beans,driedmushrooms,andolives,thatsortofthing.Buybasicsinbulk,andbuyfreshsparinglyuntilyouroutinelyuseallofyourproduce,andthenaddmore.“Forproduce,Ilookfor

what’sfresh,inseason,andhopefullyonsale.Webuyawholechickeneverytimeweshop.SometimesIbreakitdownbutusuallyIjustroastitfordinnerthatnight.Ihavelearnedendlessusesforit.Salads,pasta,burritos,chickenpotpie,chickensalad,risotto.Thelistgoeson.ThenImakechickenstock,whichalsohasendlessuses.”“Oh,andabasilplantisagreatinvestment,”shesaid.“Anyherbsthatyou

buyregularly,considerkeepingthoseplantsinyourkitchenwindow.Youcangetanherbplantatanurseryforthesamepriceasapackageofherbsatagroceryandjustusewhatyouneed.”LikeThierry,sheadvocatedtryingtoforceusingthelastelementsinthe

fridge.“Trythis:Openyourfridge.Takeoutthreeingredientsthatsoundliketheygotogether.Putthemintothesearchengineofarecipesitethatyoutrust.Ifitturnsoutterrible,well,it’sjustonemeal.”Jennysummeduptheeveningwithonemessage.“Youhavetodefinewhat

valueistoyouinyourfood.Isitcheap?Orareyougoingtogetalotofenjoymentfromit?MaybeI’llsplurgeonsomegreatflanksteak,butthenwe’llgetthreemealsfromit.Butthekeythingistothinkoffoodasmoney.Youwouldn’ttossafive-dollarbillinthegarbagecan,wouldyou?Ifyouthrowaheadoflettuceandsomedeadcucumbersinthetrash,it’sexactlythesamething.Itaddsup.”Shannontookalotofnotes.Shehadtoldusthatshespentaboutseven

hundreddollarsamonthonfood,whichturnedouttobeaverageforafamilyoffour,accordingtotheUSDA.Butshewasalwayslookingforwaystoextendherbudget.“Everythingthatwe’vebeenlearninginclasshasbeensohelpful,butthinkingaboutthiswholeleftoverpieceisabigthingforme.I’veneverbeenoneofthosepeoplewhocouldopenthefridgeandfigureoutstufftomakefromit.Ithinkthat’showstuffgoesbad,bynotknowingwhattodowithit.Thisisallsuperhelpful.”Trishhadbeentryingtoplanmoremeals,butshehadrecentlyfiguredoutthe

problem.“Myhusbandlikestobespontaneous.I’llhavedinnerhalfwaydone,andthenwe’llgotoyoga.Afterward,he’llsay,‘Let’sgoout.’ButIhavedinnerhalf-finishedathome.Sothat’sstillachallengeforme.”Onthepositiveside,theyrarelythrowawayfoodthankstohisfearlessapproachtosell-bydates.“Oh,he’lleateverything,evenstuffwithmoldonit!”ThemorningafterJenny’sclass,Itookeverythingoutofmyfridge,fromthe

condimentstothelastremnantsofvegetablesfromthecrisper.IrememberedtheheavyuseofPost-itnotesthroughoutthecommercialkitchen.IestimatedthecostofeveryitemandtaggedeachwithapriceonaPost-it.Inthecourseoftwo

costofeveryitemandtaggedeachwithapriceonaPost-it.Inthecourseoftwoweeks,ifIhadtothrowanitemaway,I’dtakethePost-itnoteandstickittoanareainsideoneofmycabinetdoors.Almostimmediately,tossingsomethingsignaleddefeatbysurrender.My

mind-setchanged:Oh,no,Idon’twanttoputthatPost-itforthisbellpepperonmydoor.Hmmm,whatcanIdowithit?Attheendoftwoweeks,I’dthrownoutaboutsixteendollarsinfood,lessthanusualbutstillnothingtomakemeproud.Amongtheculprits:remnantsofhummusofunknownorigin,theestimatedcostofleftoverbitsfromdinners,theendofabagofredgrapes,asmudgeofmesclunsaladleftinthecontainer,anearlyfullpackageofsourcream,halfalimethatturnedbrown,leftoverchickensalad,halfasandwichbroughthomefromarestaurantthatgotpushedbehindourbreaddough,andcrumbledbleucheesethathadtakenonadisturbingconsistency.ButtheexerciseforcedmetousesomeitemsthatImighthavetossed:bitsofbreadpulverizedintobreadcrumbs,thelastofajarofhorseradishaddedtomayoforaspreadforsandwiches,blackbananaspuréedintoakindoficecream,limpcarrotsandgreenonionsforcedintodutyinstock,wizenedapplescutupandbakedandtoppedwithbrownsugarontopofoatmeal,andhalfanavocadowhippedwitholiveoilandsparklingwaterforakindofdressing.OnecamedirectlyfromJenny,herersatz“pizza,”withthelasthalfhandfulofjust-starting-to-wiltspinach.Duringtheprocess,IstartedtoreadMore-with-LessCookbookbythelate

DorisJanzenLongacre,aclassiccookbookdevelopedintheearly1970swiththeMennoniteCentralCommitteethat’sstillinusetwenty-fiveyearslater.Longacrepreachedavoidingheavilyprocessedfoods,eatingsimplemealsandmorewholegrains,andrelyinglessonmeat.Sheadvocatedshorteningtheshoppinglistanddevelopingastableofrecipesonwhichtorelyratherthantryingtoreinventtheculinarywheelforeverysinglemeal.Inanopeningscene,shedescribesafour-coloradvertisingpitchshereceivedinthemailforanewrecipe-cardsetthatpromisedto“makecookingeasierandmoreexcitingthaneverbefore!”Theadstunnedhersensibilities.“Thepitchindicatesagainhowwetrytoturneatingintoasuper-experience,”shewrote.Itremindedmeofanoldissueofafoodmagazinethathadofferedaweekof

“fastmeals.”Thelineupincludedashrimpcurry,Moroccanspicedlambchops,aMediterraneanfishsauté,abeefstir-fry,andsearedscallopswithbraisedcabbage.Theshoppinglistnexttoitcontainedmorethanfiftyingredients.Sure,somepeoplemighthavesomeoftheingredientsonhandasstaples,butIexaminedtherecipescloser.Ifyoumadeallthosedishes,amongtheleftoversyou’dbeleftwithhalfaheadofcabbage,halfacanofcoconutmilk,the

you’dbeleftwithhalfaheadofcabbage,halfacanofcoconutmilk,theremainderofbunchesofcilantro,parsley,andbasil,amongotherthings.Sowhatexactlytodowithallofthoseextraremnantsoffood?WhenIthoughtaboutLongacre’sviews,whywouldItakeonasetofmenus

thatwouldleavemewithsomuch?Doesanyoneneedlamb,scallops,beef,fish,andshrimpallinthespaceoffivedays?ChefThierry,Jenny,andLongacreallhadapoint.Whileexploringmycrisper

drawer,Ifoundanearlyfulltwo-poundbagoforganiccarrotstaggedwithafour-dollarPost-it.Halfanonionbeckoned.Rosemarysprigssatwaitingonmycounter.Rosemaryandcarrotstogether?IwouldneverhavethoughtofthatcombinationifIhadnotbeenforcedtofigureouthowtousethemup.Theresultwasasavoryyetsweetchilledsoup.Ididn’tknowwhatthevolunteershadlearnedthroughtheseclasses,butIhadlearnedsomethingimportant.Weallcandomorewithless.

VelvetyChilledRosemaryCarrotSoup

Thissavoryandsweetsoupcanbeservedatanytemperature,butit’sexcellentchilled.Immersion,or“stick,”blendersaregreatforsoupbecauseyoucanplungethemdirectlyintothepot.Hotsoupcancreateavacuuminconventionalblenders,soifyouuseone,letthesoupchillslightlyfirst,andthentakethecapoffandcoverwithatowel.Runningsoupsthroughafoodmillisalow-techoption.Ifyouhavenoneoftheabove,simplymashthesoftenedvegetableswithaforkorpotatomasher;itwilllendarusticfeeltothefinishedproduct.Addtherosemary,branchandall,butbesuretoremoveitbeforepureeing.2tablespoonsoliveoil1mediumonion,chopped(about1 cups)2leeks(whiteandlightgreenparts),chopped1poundcarrots,dicedSeveralfreshrosemarysprigs1bayleaf2quartschickenorvegetablestockCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperPinchofcayenne(optional)cupqualityplainyogurt(optional)Croutons(optional)Heattheoliveoilina4-quartorlargersaucepan.Addtheonionandleeksand

sautéuntilsoftened.Addthecarrots,rosemarysprigs,bayleaf,stock,acoupleofpinchesofcoarsesalt,afewgrindsofcoarsepepper,andapinchofcayenneifusing.Bringtoaboil,thencoverandreducetheheattosimmeruntilthecarrotssoften,about1hour.Removefromtheheat.Discardtherosemaryandthebayleaf.Pureeuntil

smooth.Addadditionalwaterifnecessary.Returntothepot.Checktheseasonings,addingsalt,blackpepper,andcayennetotaste.Servewarmorcooled.Garnishwithascoopofyogurtorcroutonsifdesired.

BlissfullySimpleChickenStock

Gatherupallthebonesfromaroastchickenafteryou’vewrestedallpossibleusefromthemeat.Dependingonhowmuchwateryouaddandhowlongitsimmers,theyieldwillbesixcupstothreequarts.Bonesfrom1roastchickenmediumonion,quartered1celerystalk,roughlychopped1largecarrot,choppedFewsprigsoffreshthymeand/orparsley1garlicclove1bayleaf4to5quartscoldwaterPutthechickenbones,onion,celery,carrot,freshherbs,garlicclove,andbay

leafintoa5-quartorlargerpot.Add4to5quartsofcoldwater.Bringjusttoaboilandthenturntheheatdownuntilitsimmers.Letitsimmerforatleast1hourandupto3hours.Skimanyfoamorfatfromthetopwithaspoon.Drainitinacolanderormeshsievelinedwithcheeseclothoracoffeefilterintoalargebowl.Cool,thenrefrigerateorfreezeuntilneeded.

CHAPTER14Kitchens,Revisited LESSONHIGHLIGHTS:WhatEffectDid

theClassesHaveontheVolunteers?

NotlongafterthelastclassinearlySeptember,anacquaintancesharedamostdiscouragingquote.Hergrandfatherusedtosaythathe’d“rathertrytochangesomeone’sreligionthanchangethewaytheyeat.”“I’monlytellingyouthissoyou’renotdiscouragedifyourprojectdidn’t

work,”shesaid.ImayhavedefriendedheronFacebook.Althoughthesignshadseemedencouragingoverthesummer,that

conversationdoggedme.WhatifIhadspentallthistimeandeffort—nottomentiontheworkofeveryoneelse—yetithadnoimpact?IwaiteduntilafterThanksgivingtofollowup.Aswehadthefirsttime,we’daudittheircabinetsandaskthemtoprepareamealthattheyateregularly.Iwantedthedistanceoftimetoseewhat,ifanything,hadstuck.

SABRA

Sixmonthsafterourfirstvisit,afrigidNovemberwindwailedoutsideasIstoodinSabra’swarmkitchenwithLisaandSabra’sdad.Hewasjustascuriousaswewere.Sabrahadassembledacasseroleinanewpan,oneofmanyrecentadditionstoherkitchen.“IgotthisideafromStouffer’s.It’saCheddarandpotatocasserolewithbroccoliandbacon,”shesaid,slidingtheprepareddishintooven.“Icanmaketwelveservingsofthisforthesamepriceasacoupleofdinners,ittastesway,waybetter,andIknowwhat’sinit.”Iaskedwhatherbiggesttakeawaywasfromthecourse.“Confidence,”she

repliedquickly.“IcanlookatanyrecipeandknowthatIcanmakeitnow.Ineverthoughtthatbefore.”Shepickedupherchef’sknifefromthecounterandhandleditwithreverence.“Learningknifeskillschangedeverything.OnereasonIusedtogetintimidatedbycookingwasI’dseeabunchofstufftocutup,butnowIknowthat’snotabigdeal.Iactuallylikethatpart.”Fromtheminutewearrived,Sabraseemedeagertoshowoffherfreezer.

“Youready?”sheasked.Weallnodded.Withaflourish,sheflungitopen.“Noticetherearenofrozenmealsinhere,”shesaidproudly.Twowholefrozenturkeystookupthespaceonceoccupiedbystacksoffrozendinners.“They’reaThanksgivinggiftfrommydad’sbusiness,”sheexplained.“Ihaven’tmadethemyetbecauseIdon’thaveapanbigenough,butI’veaskedforoneforChristmas,”shesaid,eyeingherdadsittingatthekitchencounter.Roundingoutthefreezerwerebagsoftortellini,vegetables,andindividual

portionsofvariousleftovers.“Thosearelunch,”sheexplained.“Oh,look!”Shegrabbedaplasticbagandshookit.“Chickenbones!Forstock!Imadesome,butI’mout.”Iftheprojecthadsucceededinnothingelse,Sabra,theyoungwomanwhohad

servedusfrozenlasagnaandWhiteTrashGarlicBreadameresixmonthsago,nolongerwanderedthefrozen-foodsaislelookingfordinner.“Whilethey’recheap,Ijustrealizedtheyaren’tsuchagooddealafterall,”

shesaid.“IfindthatifIcookacoupleoftimesaweek,thenthere’salwayssomethingmyboyfriendandIcaneat,whichiscool.It’sjustlikeconveniencefood,exceptyoumakeit.”Avoidingfrozendinnerswasn’ttheonlyshiftinSabra’shabits.Shefound

herselfshoppingmoreoften,hittingafarmstandnearbyforvegetables.Whenevershebuysfood,shealwaysdoessowithatleasttwomealsinmind.“I

Whenevershebuysfood,shealwaysdoessowithatleasttwomealsinmind.“Ithinkwe’respendingaboutthesameongroceriesbutlessonfoodoverallbecauseweeatlesstakeout.Wewastealotlessfood,too.”SabrausedtoeatHamburgerHelpereveryotherweek.Sheadmittedthatshe

hadn’tmadeitsinceJuly,aboutmidwaythroughtheproject.Herremainingboxofthestuffhadbeenbanishedtoahighshelftomakewayfornewadditionstohermodestpantry.“It’sfunny,alotofthingsexpirethatIneverthoughtabout,likeoils,flour,andspices.”Shehaduseduptherestofherexpiredflour,hadreplacedherdeadspices,andnowbuyssmallerdosesofeverything.“NowwhenIbuysomethinglikeoliveoil,Igetthesmallersizeeventhoughit’smoreexpensive.ButIknowthatitwillstaygooduntilIcanuseitall.”“Oh,andcheckitout!”Shereachedintothedairydrawerofherfridgeto

retrieveapaperpackage.SheunwrappedabittoexposethetipofahardwedgeofParmigiano-Reggianocheese.Shehadn’tseemedthatengagedinthetastingclass,butshereportedthatithadhadapowerfuleffectonher.“ThetastingsmademereallythinkaboutwhatIbuy.Peoplecansayyoushouldgoandspendtheextramoneyandgetrealcheese,butuntilyoutasteitforyourself,it’salmostimpossibletoknowthatit’sworthit.”HerfascinationwithMcDonald’shadsubsided,too.“It’sfunnyhowifyoueat

wellandthenyougoeatfastfood,youcanreallyfeelit.Itkindofsinksinmystomach,andIcanhearmybodysayingwhoawhoawhoa,whatthe...?Idon’twantthis.”Sheheldherstomachandgroaned.Thatcomment,itmustbenoted,camefromthewomanwhoequatedlove

withMcDonald’sandwhotoldmethatifcookingdinnerwouldtakemorethantwentyminutes,she’dgooutforfastfood.“Oh,yeah,IknowIsaidthat.ButabigthingIgotoutofitwasthatcookingis

worthmytime,”shesaid.“Homemadestockisbasicallyfreeandyoucanmakesomuchstuffoutofit.AlthoughIcutmyselftwiceinclasswhenIfirststartedlearningtouseaknife,itwassoworthit,”shesaidwithalaugh.“ThechickenclasswasimportantbecauseIwasafraidofchicken,thatwholesalmonellathing.AndI’mgoingtobehonest,Iwaskindoffreakedoutbycuttingupthewholechickenatfirst.Butthatmademerethinkfoodinalotofways.You’reright,it’seasiertorememberthatitwasonce,well,achicken.”Yetforallthesestrides,somethingsshecannotletgoof,WhiteTrashGarlic

Breadamongthem.“Butthat’smoreaboutthememoryofthat,sinceIateitgrowingupwithmymother.ButIusethegoodcheesenow,notthestufffromacan.”Theotheruntouchable?Gold’nSoft.“Ican’tgivethatupbecausebutterstill

Theotheruntouchable?Gold’nSoft.“Ican’tgivethatupbecausebutterstilltastesfunnytome,”sheadmitted.“ButIuseless,probablybecauseIuseoliveoilmorenow.”Inaway,Sabrawasrailroadedintothisprojectbyherstepmother,Lisa.I

wouldnothavefaultedherifshehadattended,feignedpoliteenthusiasm,andresumedherlifeinthefast-foodlane.Instead,sheembraceditandmadeextraordinarychanges.Givenallthat,howcouldanyonedenyherafewtastesofherchildhood?Icertainlycouldnot.

TRISH

WhenIfirstvisitedTrish,Mikefilmedtheproceedings.Thistimearound,Lisacamealong.Likeme,shemarveledatTrish’scollectionofimmaculatewhitebindersfilledwithrecipesshe’dbeenclippingfordecades,eachencasedinitsownplasticsheath.Sheexudedasenseofcalmonthisvisit.“SoIdon’tthinkwhatI’veboughtor

cookedhaschangedasmuchassomethinghaschangedinme,”shestarted.“I’mmorerelaxedandI’mnotsohardonmyself.”Shegavetherecipesinthebindersasanexample.Shepulledoutonethatsaid

“appetizers”andstartedtoflipthroughit.“Iwenttoallthistroubletoputthesetogether,butthenIreallydidn’tmakemanyoftherecipes.Iwassointimidatedandworriedthattheywouldn’tworkout.SoIusedtojustlookatthem.NowI’mactuallycookingoutofthem.Imakenotes,andtheonesthatIdon’tlikeordon’twork,Ithrowthemaway.”“Sodidyoukeeprecipesthatdidn’tworkoutbefore?”Iasked.Shenodded.

“Why?”“Ithoughttherecouldn’tbeanythingwrongwiththerecipeandsowhatever

wentwrongwasmyfault,”sheexplained.Thisledhertoabiggerrealization.“IhavethispsychologicalthingthatifIcandoitthenitmustnotbespecialorgood.Plus,mymotherdidn’tliketocook.ShethoughtshewasterribleatitandIabsorbedthat,”shesaid.“NowIthinkImaynotbethegreatestcook,butIknowthatIcandoit.Iamnotafraidofit.”HermotherwastheonewhoownedtheIHatetoCookBook,atitlethatsold

threemillioncopies.Thepremiseofthebookwasthatwomenshouldgetthewholecookingthingoverwith,thusavoidinganymoredrudgeryinthekitchenthanwasabsolutelynecessary.Thisadvicewascouchedinhumoroustermsbytheauthor,PegBracken,whoalsoadvisedwomennottothrowtoomuchangstintomealseither.Trish’smothermanagedtopassdownthedislikeofcooking,andnotBracken’sultimatemessage,whichwasthat,intheend,cookingisn’tthatbigofadeal.Theironywasthatofalltheinitialkitchenvisits,Trish’sratatouillewasprobablythebestfoodIate,certainlythehealthiest,andtheonlyonemadewithwholefoods.Sheslippedthebinderbackontotheshelfandwewentintothekitchen.Shestartedtoorganizethemakingsofavegetableandbeanstewfrom

FeedingtheWholeFamilybyCynthiaLair,whichis,incidentally,oneofmyfavoritecookbooks.Trishsetuphercuttingboardonthecounter,carefullyplacingawetpaper

towelunderneath.Sheshowedoffhertwonewknives,aseven-inchchef’sknifeandasantoku,aJapanese-styledesigncharacterizedbyitscurvedspineandsmallindentsintheblade.Shesetouthermetalbowlforscraps.“Therearelittlethings,likeusingabowlforscraps,thathavemadeabigdifference.MykitchenstayscleanerandIfeelmoreorganized.”Shecutanonionperfectly.“Ihadabigahaovertheonion,”shesaid.“Inthe

knifeskillsclass,Ithought,Sothat’sthesecret!Sheusedtouseagarlicpress.“IstoppedusingthatbecausenowIlikecutting,andthatjustdirtiesthegarlicpress.”Sheturnedtoasix-quartstainlesssteelpot—anotherrecentpurchase—andtossedthevegetablesintohotoil.“Oh,andtheotherthing,Imadestock.”Sheopenedthefreezerandshowed

offacollectionofcarefullymarkedblue-liddedplasticcontainers.Shepulledoneouttoshowus.“Wow,Trish,checkyouout!”Isaid.Shelookedproud.Aftershetuckedthecontainerbackinthefreezer,shewent

tothestoveandheldupasmallbluehandmadeglazedceramicboxwithalid.“Ihadwonderedforyearswhattodowiththis.Mysonmadeit.NowIkeepmycoarsesaltinitsoIcanpinchsalt.That’sanotherlittlething.Itseemssilly,buttryingtofigureoutapinchwithashakerishard!”Shetickedoffitemsshe’dtriedsincethesummer.“I’mstillterribleatcutting

upchicken,butIlovetodoit.”Sheregrettedleavingthemeatclassearly.“Ishouldhavestayed.Iwouldhavelikedtolearnmoreaboutbraising.”Shehadenjoyedlearningtomakethevinaigrettebutrarelydidit.“Idon’tknow,buyingitinthebottleisjustsoeasy.”Oftheotherclasses,sheusedthesoupclassthemost.“Inowhaveasenseof

howtomakesoupfromjustaboutanything,andwelovesoup.”Onceagain,shesetthetablewithbeautifuldinnerware,asculptedsilver

breadbasketinthecenterofthetable,andimmaculatelyironedclothnapkins.Thestewwaslightyetsavoryandbrightenedwiththeflavorofcilantro.Itwastheperfectlunchforacold,rainyday.Thetimerdingedforthepeartartshehadmadefordessert.“WhenImadeitthelasttime,Itookittomyfriend’shouseandshehadaperfectsilveroblongpananditlookedsopretty.Everyonesaid,‘Wow,Trish,you’resogoodinthekitchen.’“Andthismayseemsilly,butitwasabigmomentforme.Iwasproudof

somethingthatIcooked.”Hereyesgotalittlemistyatthememory.“Noone

somethingthatIcooked.”Hereyesgotalittlemistyatthememory.“Nooneexpectedthatfromme.Ididn’texpectitfrommyself.ItisremarkablethatatmyageIcanstillchange,andthatIcanstillsurprisemyself.”

JODI

WhenImetJodi,shehadfoundherselfsuddenlyastay-at-homemotherafterbeinglaidofffromherhigh-techjob.Shehadgonebacktoworkagainthatautumn,jugglingherhomelifewithathree-year-oldandtryingtokeepupwithexpectationsinhernewjob.WhenIlearnedthatshehadgonebacktowork,IworriedthatwhatevermomentumJodihadgainedintheprojectmighthavedissipated.AssoonasIwalkedintoherkitchen,IrealizedIdidn’tneedtoworry.Jodi

couldbarelycontainherexcitementwhenwearrived.Itwasasifshehadasecretthatshejustcouldn’twaittoshare.ItwasaremarkableshiftfromtheairofdefeatandtentativenessIhadfeltonthedaythatshemadeJapanesecurryfromacube.Bycontrast,shewassmilingandrelaxedasshetoldusshewasplanningto

roastachicken.Sheshowedoffthesimpleroastingpanthatshehadboughtfortwentydollarsatarestaurantsupplystore.“Oh,yeah,Idothisallthetimenow,”shesaidaboutthechicken.“I’velearnedthataslongasthechickenisn’ttoobig,ittakesrightaroundanhour.”Shehasmadeahobbyoffindingusesfortheleftovers.“ImadechickenAlfredoanditwassogood,”shegushed.“ImakethefreshtomatosaucesooftenthatIthinkI’mgoingtohavetotakeabreakfromitbecausemyhusbandandsonmightbegettingsickofit,butIstillreallylikeit.”ShehadBrusselssproutsthathadsomehowgottenoverlookedat

Thanksgiving.She’dnevermadethembefore,butshefiguredshe’dgivethemasauté.Wecouldsmellbreadbakingintheoven.Jodiopenedherfridgedoortorevealaplasticbinwithdoughnestledintothecenter.“I’veusedmoreflourinthelastthreeorfourmonthsthanI’veeverusedinmyentirelife!Igotacoupleofbigplasticcontainersforwhiteandwholewheatflour,andI’mrefillingthemallthetime.”“Imakeaversionthat’skindofhalfwheatandhalfwhitenow.Mysonlikes

itandIliketomakeit.Ifinditrewardingtopullhotbreadfromtheoven,andit’ssomethingthatIcanmakeafterworkatleastacoupleoftimesaweek.”SheproudlyshowedoffhernewcopyofJoyofCooking.“Thissummer

completelychangedthewaythatIthinkaboutcookingandnutrition,especiallyaroundprocessedfoods,youknow?Ihavetriedatonofrecipes,whichIwouldhaveneverdonebefore.Also,webuywaymoreorganicnowandIreadthe

labelsoneverything.Don’tgetmewrong,I’mstillnotmakingmayonnaisefromscratchoranythinglikethat,butI’vecomealongway.”Onmyearliervisit,thesmallwalk-inhadbeenpackedwithcasesofcanned

andboxedgoodsstackedinpilesonthefloor.Nowitlookedorganizedandfunctional,andnotablyabsentwereultraprocessedfoods,saveforafewboxesofmacaroniandcheese.“Itriedtoeatthroughalotofthingslikecannedtomatoes,butsomeofthestuffIclearedoutandtooktoafoodbank.”Herfridgewassimilarlylesscluttered.Inherfridgedoorwasajarofparsley

pesto,atipshehadtakenfromChefThierry.Shewasstillworkingoneatingthroughthefreezer.Inventoryover,shewentbacktohercuttingboard.Shetenderlyseparated

leavesfromafewsprigsofrosemary,choppedgarlic,andeffortlesslyseasonedherchickenasshetalked.Sheseemedasifshehadbeendoingitforyears.Evenso,shestillfearedfallingintothegenderrolethathadtrappedhermotherinwhatJodiviewedasalifeofvoluntaryservitude.“Idon’tmindcooking,aslongasmyhusbandandIbothagreethatit’sa

partnershipandit’snotjustmyjob,”Jodisaid.“IthinkthatitshouldbeaboutwhogetshomefirstratherthantheassumptionthatI’msupposedtodoit,evenif,tobehonest,Iratherliketocooknow.”Interestingly,hernewfoundinterestinthekitchenbothgaveherequalfooting

andthreatenedthedelicatebalanceofthepowerthathadexistedwhenherhusbandwasthemaincookinthefamily.“We’vehadacoupleofargumentsaboutcooking,butthat’sprobablybecause

Ineverusedtohaveanopinion.”Shenowrejectedsuggestionsanddebatedtechnique.Recently,shemadeadishthatleftalayeroffoodstucktothebottomofaskillet.Herhusbandkeptscrubbingandcomplaining.“Isaid,‘Hey,it’snobigdeal.Justdeglazeit.’Hewasall‘What?’Isaid,‘Getthepanhotandaddsomeliquid.Itwillcomerightoff.’”Hekeptscrubbingandfinallythrewthepaninthesinkindisgust.“Iwenttothestove,gotithot,andaddedwater,anditwascleanlikethat,”shesaid,snappingherfingers.“Ha,soIknewthat,andhedidn’t.”“So,thisisfunny,”shesaidinanobviousmovetochangetheconversation.“I

havebeentryingtofindarecipeforJapanesecurrythatdoesn’tuseacube.ButalltheJapanesepeopleIaskedsaytheyusethedangbox!I’dsay,‘Hey,don’tyouknowwhat’sinthat?’”Shelaughed.“SoIaskedafoodwriterfriendwhoisAsian,andshethoughtitwasagreatquestion.Soshe’sgoingtoresearchitandI’mgoingtohelpwithrecipetesting.”

Sowhileshestillmakesgoldencurry,she’sthinkingaboutitmoreandmakingitless.“Iknowthissoundsdumb,butIusedtothinkthatthestuffinaboxwassomethingyoucouldn’tmake.NowIknowtheyalljustmimicrealfoods,soifit’sinabox,there’sgottobeawaytomakeitforreal.IfyougotoagoodrestaurantinJapan,thenthey’llhavethissamecurryandit’samazing.SoIguessthat’smyholygrailnow.OnedayIwilllearnhowtomakethatsamecurrywithoutthedarncube!”

DRI

Drihadmovedfromthehoodintoacomfortablecondoinaleafyurbanneighborhood.“Thegreatestthing?I’mjustacrossthestreetfromMutualSeafood,”shesaid,namingoneofthecity’smostrespectedseafoodoutlets.Driseemedhappyandrelaxed.Shealsolookedasifshe’dlostabitofweight.

Comparedtoherformerone-cook-is-too-many-sizedkitchen,hernewoneseemedvastandluxuriouswithitsopenplan,darkmaplewoodcabinets,andstainlesssteelappliances.“It’sgreat.Isometimeswakeupinthemorningandthink,Wow,Ilivehere.Ifeellikesuchagrown-up.”Shehadabasketonhercounterfilledwiththekindsofstuffthatshehad

discussedabandoninginthefinalclass:dehydratedsoupmixes,pastasidedishes,broccolisoupmix,andcornmuffinsamongthelot.Sheblushed,abitembarrassed.“Sothisisawkward,”shesaid.“Ididafavorformyfriendandasathank-you

giftshegavemethislovelybasketwithallthispackagedstuff.”Shecouldnotstifleherlaughter.“Itwassuchaniceidea,butIthought,Ijustdon’tdothatanymore.Iguessforsomepeopleit’satreat,butnowIknowbetter.”Likealotofpeoplewholiveontheirown,Drireportedthatshefoundithard

togetmotivatedtocookforone.“Theprojectamplifiedtheimportanceoftakingtimetocookandactuallytomakeitapriority,”shesaid.“PlusitchangedthewaythatIplanandstockmykitchenbyabout175millionpercent.Iknowthat’sareallybignumber,butit’strue.”Sheopenedacabinettoshowoffacollectionofoilsandvinegars.“Igotmost

ofthisstuffafterourlessoninsaladdressings.”She’dstockeduponredwine,balsamic,andchampagnevinegars,soysauce,sesameoil,andagoodextra-virginoliveoil.“Onebigtakeawaywasthatyoudon’tneedtogooutandbuysomethingspecific,butusewhatyou’vegot.Icanmakeanalmostendlessvariationofdressings.Iusedtoeatplainsteamedvegetables,whichareprettyblahandhardtogetexcitedabout.NowIthink,Huh,whatcanIputtogethertomakethoseactuallytastegood?”ThecontentsofDri’sFrenchdoor–stylestainlessfridgeresembledthoseof

othervolunteers,withabouquetofgreensinwaterandaplasticcontainerwithbreaddough.“Idon’tshopformealsasmuchasIshopforbasics,whichIconsideronions,carrots,celery,garlic,lemons,limes,andafewotheringredients.Ialwayshavethoseonhandnow,”sheexplained.“IfeellikeIcan

ingredients.Ialwayshavethoseonhandnow,”sheexplained.“IfeellikeIcanmakemostanythingfromthesestaples.”Thisisradicallydifferentfromthewaysheusedtoshop.“Iusedtogotothe

grocerystoreorafarmers’marketandI’dseeallthesevariousthingsandthink,Oh,thatlooksgood,thislooksgood.I’dbuyawholebunchofrandomstuff.ButthenIwouldn’treallyhaveanythinginmindaboutwhattodowithit.That’swherealotofmyfoodwastecamefrom.”DrisaidshemademanydecisionswithThierry’svoiceinherhead.“NowwhenIlookatsomethinghighlyperishable,Ithink,Okay,ifIbuythat,thenwhatamIgoingtodowithitinthenexttwodays?”Asshechatted,Dristarteddinner.Shemovedwithcalmpurposeasshe

choppedvegetablesforacurriedcucumbersaladwithanewchef’sknifeandpulledabeautifulsmallloafofbreadfromheroven.WhereDrihaddubiouslypokedatherchickenonlyafewmonthsearlier,thatnightshedemonstratedhowto“spatchcock,”atechniqueinwhichthebackboneisremovedtobutterflyawholechickensothatitliesflattocookfasterandmoreevenly.“IlearnedthisfromCook’sIllustrated.Theeditorsusepoultryshears,whichIdon’town.It’salittletrickywithaknifebutitworks.”Sheputherweightdownonthebackbonetobreakit.Usingthetipofher

chef’sknife,shemadeasurgical-likeoutlinearoundthelengthofthespine.Withonebigtug,sherippedoutthebackboneandsetitaside.SheturnedthechickenoverandplacedherhandsoneovertheotherasiftoperformCPRonthebird.Insteadsheputherweightdownonthesternumtobreakitwithamightycrack.“Funny,Iremembernotbeingterriblythrilledbythesightofachickeninthatclass,”shesaid.“Iguessitdoesn’tbothermenow,huh?”Sheplacedthechickenonacushionofthinlyslicedpotatoesliningthebottomofaroastingpan,“tosoakuptheyummysauce,”sheexplained.Sheseasoneditsimplywithfreshthyme,oliveoil,andsaltandpepperbeforeshovingitintheoven.DricooksonebigmealduringtheweekandapotofsouponSunday.With

leftovers,thatcoversmealsforatleastfourdays.Othernights,shemakesaquicksalad,sandwich,orpastawithstaplesshekeepsonhand.“Istillsufferfromthisissueofcookingforoneandtryingtogetportionsright.Itrynottohavetoomanyleftovers.Idon’tmindthemondaytwo,butondayfour?Iusuallycan’tgothere.SometimesIjusttakealltheleftoversoutofmyfridgeandbringthemtowork.I’llsaytosomebody,‘Hey,youwantsomechicken?Ibroughtyoulunch.’”Ididn’trealizeinthefirstvisitthatbehindherquirky,smilingexterior,Dri’s

Ididn’trealizeinthefirstvisitthatbehindherquirky,smilingexterior,Dri’sinnatedesiretomakearadicallifeshiftrandeep.“WhenitcametohowIapproachedfood,IknewthatIneededtochangecourse,butIhadnoideawheretostart.”

ANDRA

AndraseemedingoodspiritswhenwemetherinDecemberatherapartmentinSea-Tac.Shelookedmorerestedandherfaceseemedthinner.WhenImentionedthatIthoughtshelookedlikeshe’dlostweight,shelaughed.“Oh,that’ssoniceofyoutosay!Ican’tsaythatI’velostatonofweightbutIdefinitelyfeellikeI’meatingbetter.”I’mendlesslyfascinatedwithherapartment.Thistime,Inoticedthatthe

entirelengthofthefridgewasplasteredwithamosaicofdifferentmagnets.AdresscoveredupamagneticstatueofDavidinthetopright-handcorner;magneticpoetryspelledout“Yes,ashadowwakens.”Aftertheproject,Andramadeaconcertedefforttoaddmorefruitsand

vegetablestoherdietandtocookmore.“Asusual,moneyistight,butit’sgettingbetternowbecauseI’mworkingmore.Ofcourse,theholidaysarealwaysabitofadrainfinancially.”Shereliedonpublictransportinsteadofacar.“SometimesI’montenbusesinoneday.It’sexhausting,butthat’smychoice.I’vestartedtotakethenewlightrailtrain,whichisnice.Butsomenights,Igethomeexhaustedfromallthetravel.”Duetothemazeofbusesthatmakesupherdailycommute,shenowreliedon

sandwichesorotherfoodsthatareeasytoeatenroute.Sheavoidedtheinexpensiveburgerjointsthatsheusedtofrequentforlunch.“Fastfoodisnotagoodvalue.IamhungrynotlongafterwardandIdon’tfeelgoodaftereatingit.”Shetimedbothtoconfirmthatittooklongertostandinlinetoorderthanittooktomakeasandwichandpackanappleathome.“It’slessmoney,lesstime,andhealthier.Itjusttakesplanning.”Andramissedmoreclassesthananyoftheothervolunteers.Ashame,because

aswetalked,itwasapparentthatshetookawayalotfromtheonesshedidattend.Astheothersagreed,theknifeskillsclassprovedtobethemostuseful.Shortlyafterthelastclass,shemadeherfirstroastchicken.“Itwasjustmeandmycat,butsheseemedtoreallylikeit!”Roastedchickenthighsandvegetableshadbecomedinnerstaples,andsheregularlymadeartisanbread.Shesometimescookedsalmoninpaper.Inapinch,shereliedonscrambledeggs.“I’vecookedforsomeofmyfriendsandIhavehadnocomplaints.”AtThanksgiving,shemadestuffingfromscratchwithhermotherandhelped

cooktheturkey.“Shenoticedmynewchoppingskills,andthatfeltgood.Ievenmadethevinaigretteforthesalad.”Shewasimpressedbytastingdifferenttypes

madethevinaigretteforthesalad.”Shewasimpressedbytastingdifferenttypesoflettuce.“IconfessthatIbuybagsofsalad,butthat’sabigmoveforme.Iwouldn’thaveboughtgreensbeforeatall.”Hercupboardsweremorefilledoutthistime,withwholewheatpastaand

cansoftomatoes,beans,andsoups.Sheselectedoneofthesmallplasticbagsofherbsshe’dpurchasedinbulktouseintheeggsshewasmakingforlunch.“Ithinkaboutwhatyourchefsaid,thatifyoudon’thaveanythingelse,youcanmakeanomelet.Imakescrambledeggsmoreoften,butanomeletfeelsmorelikeameal.”Wewatchedhercracktheeggsintoabowl,quicklywhisktheyolkstogetherwithsalt,pepper,andabitofthyme,andthenpourthemintoapan.Sheaddedabitofgratedcheesetothecenter,andthenslidtheomelettofolditontoaplate.Itwasperfect.Itstruckmethatheromeletwasaworldawayfromthehyperprocessedpizza

bitesthatshehadmadethefirsttimeIvisited.Iaskedheraboutthecontrastasshecuttheedgeofhereggswithafork.“Idon’tknowifIwouldbuythosenow,”shesaid.“Ithinkmoreaboutvalueratherthanjustcost.”Abigbagofgreenscoststhesameasafast-fooddinner,sheobserved.Shesearchedoutplacestobuyvegetableslessexpensivelythaninaconventionalsupermarket,suchasalocalfarmstand.“I’vegotlimitedmoneyformyfood,soIneedtogetthemostoutofitthatIcan.“NowthatIcancookbetter,Idon’thavetosettleforcrappyfood.It’sbeen

agessinceIorderedapizza,andthoseguysusedtoknowmyvoiceonthephone.”

TERRI

Terrihadfinallytossedherfour-year-oldfrozenturkeydinner.“Ididn’twantyoutocomebackandfindthatitwasstillthere!”shesaidwithanervouslaugh.Herfridgewasstillrelativelybare.“I’vegottenridofallthescienceexperiments,”sheadmitted.Littleelsehadchangedinhercabinets.“IfindthatI’mgoinggroceryshoppingmoreoften,whichisfunnysinceIactuallyhategroceryshopping,”shesaid.“ButIalsodon’twanttowastefood,soIusuallyjustbuyenoughforadayortwoandthat’swhyIdon’thaveabigstockofithere.”ShehadsignedupasaclientwithBeve,thenutritionist.Hercounterwas

linedwithbrand-newbottlesofvitaminsshe’dbeenassignedtotakeafterBevehadTerri’smedicaldoctorrunvarioustests.Likemostpeoplewholiveabovethethirty-seventhparallel,TerriwaswildlydeficientinvitaminD;thesunistooweakmostoftheyearformostpeopletoproduceitnaturally.Shehadshiftedtoeatingshreddedwheatforbreakfasttoupherfiberintakeandreliedonscrambledeggsatlunchtohelpincreaseherprotein.Onmyfirstvisit,shehadmadewholewheatpastawithabitofoliveoil.

She’dadvancedtoaddingthefreshtomatosaucefromclass,somethingshemadeatleasttwiceaweek.“I’llbehonest.Idon’tmindeatingthesamethingallthetime.Ikindoflikeroutines,”shesaid.“It’salsosomethingthatIdon’treallyhavetoplanfor.Ialwayskeepwholewheatpasta,tomatoes,andgarlicaround.”Terriwastheonlyonewhodidn’tchopanonionasdemonstratedinclass.

Instead,shecutofftheends,quarteredthemanddroppedthemintoafoodprocessor,andgavethemaquickwhirl.“Iknow,Iknow,I’mcheating,”sheapologized.“Ifindmyselfrevertingbacktooldhabits.”Well,notallofthem.Terriusedtoeatfastfoodfordinneruptofourtimesa

week;nowitwasdowntolessthanonceeverycoupleofweeks.Shehadcutbackonanotherindulgence,regularvisitstoStarbucksforbreakfastorlunch,althoughthathadasmuchtodowithmoneyaswithnutrition.Ofallthepeopleinthestudy,self-employedTerrihadthemostenduring

senseof“timepoverty.”Iheardalotabout“time”inthefirstroundofvisitswiththevolunteers.Inthesecondround,theissuewasnoticeablylesssignificant.WhenIlaterreviewedthevideos,Terrimentionedthewordtimeontwenty-twooccasionsinbothherfirstandsecondkitchenvisits.LiketheWhite

Rabbit,sheseemedinvariablylateandrushed,evenasshementionedthathertourbusinessmoreorlessgroundtoahaltduringtheoff-season.“I’mgladtoknowabouthowtocutupachicken,althoughIdon’tthinkIwill

doitmyself,”shesaid.“Itwasjustalittletoo...”Shestruggledforaword.“IguessthatI’mjustsqueamish,anditdoesn’thelpthatIamnotthatcrazyaboutchickeninthefirstplace.”Ofalltheclasses,shelikedthemeatclasswithRobinbest;itinvolvedcutting

upredmeatandpork,butthatbotheredherless.“Learningtomakerubswashelpfulbecauseporkchopsareoneofmystandards,althoughIhaven’tmadearubyet.IlikedthesoupclassandIplantotrythatoneday.Thevinaigrettelessonwasusefulintermsofthinkingaboutflavorcombinations,butIdon’tmakesaladsathome,IonlyeatthemwhenIgoout.Asyoucansee,Idon’tkeepalotoffoodinmyfridge,soleftoversaren’tthatbigofadealforme.”Butsheexplainedthatthisdidn’tmeanthatforhertheprojectwasn’t

successful.“ItdidhelpmetorealizethatIshouldthinkmoreaboutwhatIeat,butnot

necessarilyworryaboutwhatIcook.”Terrihadslashedherfast-foodrunsfromtwentytotwopermonth.Bydoingso,shehadeliminated195,000mostlyemptycaloriesinthecourseofayear,theequivalentof550hoursonatreadmill.Sheexplainedthatwhilesomepeoplecanchangetheirhabitsovernight,shelearnedwhileovercomingalcoholismthattimeandroutinearecriticalforher.“WhenItrytochangeeverythingatonce,thatneverworks.IfeellikeIhavestartedtodevelopafoundationandIhavetobehappywithwhereI’mgoing.”Givenallthat,sowhatifsheusedherfoodprocessortocutonionstomake

somethinghealthierathome?Morepowertoher.

CHERYL

AtCheryl’s,theChristmastreefelldownonherfour-year-oldson.Hehadpulledonanornament,sendingthetreestraightdown.Hestartedwailing.“Oh,no!”LisaandIracedovertorescuehim.Aswerightedthetree,Cheryl

grabbedherson.Sheconductedaquickinventoryforinjurybeforeclutchinghimtoherchesttightly.Thensheheldhimoutatarm’slength.“Itoldyoutostopplayingwiththetree!”sherebuked.“IwantyoutositonthecouchandreadyourbookswhileMommyfinisheshervisit.”Hersongrabbedtwopicturebooksoffthecoffeetableanddutifullyclimbedupontothebrownleathersofa.Onourfirstvisit,Cherylhadopenedacanoforganicsoupforlunch.This

time,shemadeapotfromscratch,afragrantcurryscentednumberwithcoconutmilkandvegetables.“It’sreallyeasy,”shesaid.“ImakeonepotandthenmysonandIeatitforacoupleofdaysforlunch.Myhusband’sinconstruction,sohetakesitinhisthermos.Ifreezetherestinsmallportionsforluncheslater.”Wewatchedherefficientlychopanonion,carrots,andceleryforhersoup.

BabyLiamscootedaroundthekitchenflooratherfeet.Shehadrecentlyhadallherkitchenknivessharpened.“Itmakesahugedifferencehavingasupersharpknife.Icancruisethroughchopping.”Shetossedthevegetablesintoherpotandstartedtosimmerthem.Herhusbandhuntsandbringshomeamotleyassortmentofgame.Sheusedto

struggleabouthowtoprepareit.“Iusedtothink,WhatdoIdowithapheasant?”shesaid.“ThenIlearnedtobraise!Nowalotofmycookingisbraising,braising,braising.Ihavetosaythatmybraisedpheasantisabighit.”ShepickedupLiam,whohadgrownnoticeablybigger,andbalancedhim

heavilyonherslighthip.“TheclassdefinitelychangedsomefundamentalbasicsabouthowIcook,”shesaid.“Imakemoresauces,soups,andmealsfromscratch.IammoreconfidentinthekitchenbecauseIjusthavemorefaithinmyskills.Ithinktheclassnotonlyhelpedmelearnnewthingsbutalsotaughtmenottobeafraidofcookingandtryingnewthingsonmyown.”Cherylhadbeenfairlylabelconsciousandtheclasshadjustmadehereven

moreso.“Forinstance,Irarelybuybread.”Sheopenedherfridgetorevealtwocontainersofbreaddough,onewhiteandonewholewheat.“Myhusbandistheofficialbakerinthefamily.Heexperimentswithallkindsofversions.Youknow,I’vegottentothepointthatIjustwanttoknowwhat’sineverythingthatIfeedmyfamilynow.”

feedmyfamilynow.”

SHANNON

Shannonisendlesslyupforachallenge.“It’sfunny,Imadesomeapplesauce.Ihadalltheseapples,”shesaid,holdingherarmsoutwidetoindicateamassivecrateofapples.“Weirdly,itwasreallyfun.Iwastotallycruisingthroughchoppingthem.”Shesmiledbroadly.“Myhandwasalittlesoreafterdoingit,butItotallydugtheZenofgettingintoit.”Bythispoint,thevolunteershadsomeconsensusontheefficacyofclasses.

Knifeskills,thechickenclass,stock,soup,no-kneadbread,andlearningtocookfishinparchmentcameoutasstrongthemes.Shannonwasnodifferent.ButIwasinterestedinhertakeaways.Shewasthemotheroftwoyoungchildrenandsomeonewhocarefullywatchedherfoodbudget.Somethingsshe’dbeenlesshipto.“I’vemademyownstockandIreallylike

it,butsometimesIjustcan’tgetthere,”shesaid.“It’shardtocomparemyownstockagainstsupermarketstockbecauseit’sjustsodifferent.ButifIbuyit,Itotallycheckthesodium.IgetitasclosetounsaltedasIcan.IfoundabrandthathasonlythreegramsofsodiumthatIlike.”Oneclassthatshedoesn’trememberfondlywasthetastingclass.In

retrospect,eagertoofferalotofoptions,Imayhavepresentedtoomanyandpushedacoupleofvolunteersintosensoryexhaustion.Ninetypesofsaltwereprobablysixtoomany.“IrememberleavingthatclassfeelingthatIhadbeenphysicallybeaten.”Shelikedthelaterclassesinwhichwedidasingletastingatthebeginningofclass.“Don’tgetmewrong,IlikedcomparingtastesofthingsthatIactuallycookwith,suchaspastaandcannedtomatoesandchickenstock.Itwasjusttoomuchatonetime.”Evenso,shewasthefirststudenttoannounceshehadtossedheriodizedsalt.ShehadseenanoticeonlineforthecomparativebeeftastingataRedVelvetDinner.“That’ssomethingI’dbeinterestedin,thewholegrass-fedversuscorn-fed,orthetasteoforganicchickensversusthekindfromthemeatdepartment.”Asfarasthefishclass,theemphasisonhittingaseparatestoredidn’tfactor

intothecomplexitiesofbeingamotherandacook.“WhileI’dlovetogotoafishmarket,therealityisthatattheendofthedayIhaveonlysomanytripsinme.I’vegottoguideababyandayoungchildandsometimesit’sallIcandotojustgetmilk.SoIbuyfishfromthehigher-endsupermarketwhereIknowtheyhavegoodfishandIbuysomeofmyotherstuffthere,too.Honestly,thereasonwhyIliketheparchmentisbecauseitalwaysturnsout.Icanprepitinadvance

whyIliketheparchmentisbecauseitalwaysturnsout.Icanprepitinadvancewhilethey’renappingandtherearenodishes.”WhocouldarguewithShannon?Shehadtheinformationandweighedher

optionsbasedonafrankandrealisticsetofexpectationsforherliferightnow.Forinstance,nurturingapotofstockforhourswasn’tapriority,butshedidn’twanttoaddtheliquidequivalentofasaltlicktoherfood.Soherdecisiontoseekoutunsaltedchickenstockseemedlikeacompletelyreasonablesolution.I’msurethelistwenton.Thathasnotkeptherfromexploringnewculinaryterritory,inpartbasedon

theconfidenceandinformationshegainedfromtheclasses.“I’vealwaysbeenkindofscaredofmyCrock-Pot.Idon’treallyunderstandit,”shesaid.Butshehaddraggeditoutofaclosetanddroppedacoupleoflambshanksintoitrecently.“WhenIcamebackinthemeatwasseparatedfromthebonesandIthought,Yes,that’sright,that’swhatRobinsaidwassupposedtohappen.Ittastedreallyawesome.”InJune,Shannonnotedthatshefeltuncomfortablecookingwithoutarecipe.

Soitwasasurprisewhenshesharedtheprovenanceofherlunch.“Ihadalambragoutinarestaurantwhenwewereonvacation,”shestarted.“Itwassoyummy!Oh,myGod,itwassogood!SothenIwonderedhowIcouldre-createit.Ilookedonlineandfoundsomerecipesforragout,buttheyallusedgroundlamb,whichwasn’twhattheyused.ButIrealized,Oh,that’sjustabraise.SoIgotalambshoulderandIcutitupintopiecesandbraisedit.Forthepolenta,Imadeitfromcornmealandthrewsomecheeseintoittomakeitgooeyandyummyanditallworked.”Herfamilyapproved.“Wewerelike,‘Oh,yum!’Thefunnythingaboutthat

storyisthatbeforeclass,Ijustdon’tthinkIwouldhaveeverthoughttotacklesomethinglikethat.Now,Ican.IfeellikeIdeserveapatonthebackforthatone.”Atthatmoment,IrealizedthatnotonlyhadShannonpassedCookingBasics

101withflyingcolors,shewasprobablyreadyfora301class.

GENEVIEVE

Duetomovingschedulesandlifeingeneral,ittookusmonthstocatchupwithGenevieve.Shehadbeenlivingwiththreeroommatesinacomfortablerentalhousewhenwemether,butshehadsincemovedintoanewcondowithherboyfriend,John.Thesleekkitchenboasteddarkcherrywoodcabinets,grayslatefloortile,ablackman-madequartzcountertop,andstainlesssteelappliances.“It’sfunny,partofwhatwelikedaboutthisplacewasthecabinets,butitturnsoutsomearesupershallow.”Shedemonstratedbyshowingthatacanistersheusesforteabarelyfitsinside.“Oh,well,theylooknice.”Theshallowcabinetsincludedahealthyroundup:wheatpasta,cansof

tomatoes,artichokes,andolives,brownrice,andacollectionofoilsandvinegars.“ItturnsoutthatIreallylikevinegar,”shesaid.“Iwaskindofsurprised.NowI’malloverthem.Mylatestfavoriteistarragon.Itissupertasty.”Inherfridgewasaspectrumofcoloredvegetables,awrappedpacketoffish,

somegreens,organicmilk,whitewine,prepackagedJell-Opudding,andleftoverbutternutsquashsoupfromtheweekend.Shekeptcilantroinasmallglassofwaterlikeflowers,asThierryhadsuggested.InhercheesedrawerwasawedgeofrealParmigiano-Reggiano.Amongtheitemsshekeptinherfreezerwerefrozenstrawberries,potstickers,andacoupleoffrozenpizzas,plussomebutterbecauseshedoesn’tuseitoften.“Onethingthat’sI’vechangedismybuyinghabits.Idon’tbuypremade

packagesofstuff,likethosefrozenpastadinnerswiththesauce.Iusedtogetthosealot.ButnowIrealizethatit’snocomparisontowhatIcanmakefresh,plusthelistofingredientskindofturnedmeoff.Ifindithardtoorderpastainarestaurant.Ithink,Twentydollars?Icouldtotallymakethisforthree.”SheandJohnhitafarmstandacoupleoftimesaweekratherthanstockingup

atthegrocerystoreandsoughtoutastand-alonebutcherandfishmonger.“Irelylessongettingmyfoodfromoneplace.”Shoppingtogether,theybothtrytorotatethegoodsintheirfridgetoavoidfoodwaste.“AcoupleoftimesaweekIdoasweepofthefridgeforwhatneedstobeused.Whetherit’sleftoverchickenorvegetablesorherbs,I’lljustchopthemupandaddthemtoasaladandthenmakevinaigrette.Sometimesthat’sdinner.”Onhercounterrestsasmallbowlfilledwithavocadosandtomatoes.Beve,

thenutritionist,hadmadeacommentthateveryonecouldeatmoreavocados,a

thenutritionist,hadmadeacommentthateveryonecouldeatmoreavocados,asourceofhealthyfat.SoGenhadlearnedtomakeguacamole.Johnchimedin.“Ihavetosay,herguacisgreat.”Duringourfirstvisit,Gencombinedabagofpreparedcabbageslawwithajar

ofteriyakisauce.Onthefollow-upvisit,shemadewild-caughtAlaskansalmoncookedinparchmentpaperandroastedasparagus.“Imakethisprettyoften.I’veeventaughtthepapertricktoacoupleofpeople.Irememberwhenyouaskedhowmanyportionsabigchickenbreastmade,andthenyouweigheditanditwasmorethanapound,soitwasreallyfourservings.Iusethatasareasontobuybettermeatorfishbuteatlessofit.”SheremindedmeofsomethingthatI’dsaidoffhandinclass.“Yousaid,‘No

oneisgoingtomakeyoupackyourknivesandgohomeifadishdoesn’tturnout.’Ithinkaboutthatalot.Thatkindofattitudemakesmemoreconfident,andthat’swhyIenjoyitmore.Itallowsmetotrythingswithoutgettingworkedupaboutit.”Aweekago,shehadbeensautéingapieceoffishanddecidedtomakeasaucewithdicedapple,rosemary,andwhitewine.“Ithought,Whattheheck?I’llgivethatatry.Youknowwhat?Itwasreallygood.”

DONNA

Ofallthevolunteers,IwasmostintriguedbyDonna.Igenuinelylikedherandwassympathetictothepowerstruggleoverfoodandcookinginhernewmarriage.Wenevermanagedadateforasecondhomevisit.Afterafewmonths,Isensedthattheprojecthadhadnolastingeffectonherandshewassimplytoopolitetoletmedown.Finally,ayearaftertheprojectended,wecaughtuponthephone.“Honestly,

Ididn’tchangemylifestylemuchrightaftertheclasses,”shestarted,myinitialsuspicionsconfirmed.“Butthere’sonephrasethatrepeatsinmyhead,eventothisday.Whenyouwereatmyhouse,yousaid,‘Doyoueverwonderwhattheydotofoodstomakethemlow-fat?’IguessInevercaredbefore.Crappyfoodhadalwaysbeenafactoflife.ButthenIstartedquestioningthings,althoughnotmuchelsechanged.”Then,afewmonthsearlier,shehadstartedtocookonSundays.“I’mnotsure

howitstarted,butIjustdecidedthatSundaywastheonlyrealtimethatIhavetocook.”Shemadethreeorfourmeals,andthenwrappedthemupinindividualservingstoeatforlunchordinnerthroughouttheweek.Shefavoredvegetable-centricdishesthatpackwell;vegetarianchiliwasastandardinherrotation.Inthethreemonthssinceshe’dstarted,she’dlosttenpounds.“Afteryearsoftryingtofindthe‘secret’tobattlingmyweightissues,Iseem

tohavefounditincooking,”shesaid.“I’manemotionaleater.Takingmyfoodwithmetoworkandeatingthesamethingshashelpedmemaintainthatfoodisfuelandnotluxuryorreward.”Shedoesn’tcomehomeravenousanymore,agoodthingbecauseherhusband

lostallinterestincooking,amajorshiftintheoriginalcontextoftheirrelationship.“Heeatsmostlyfrozenfoodnow,”shesaid.“Idon’twantthatformyselfbutIdon’twanttofighthimaboutiteither.Ifhecooks,that’sokay,butIdon’trelyonhimtodoitanymore,”shesaid,addingthathe’sstillaboutninetypoundsoverweight.“Nowifweeatsomethinghomemade,Imakeit.Thethingisthathehasn’tchanged,I’mtheonewhohaschanged,”shesaid.Youcouldhearasurgeofindependenceinhervoice.“It’sprettyexciting,really.”Whenwefirstmet,herhusbandselectedmostoftheirgroceries,buthis

shoppingethostroubledher.He’dbuyfiveheadsoflettuceatawarehousestore,onlytothrowawaythree.ItconflictedwiththevaluesfromherdayjobworkingwithanAfricanaidorganization.Nowsheshopsforherfood,andheshopsfor

withanAfricanaidorganization.Nowsheshopsforherfood,andheshopsforhis.“SoIstillbuyalotatthewarehousestorebecausetheyhavegooddeals,but

nowIgowithafriendfromwork.Weshoptogetherandthenwesplitit.Doingthathashelpedmesavemoneybutwastelessfood.It’sfun,too.MyfriendandItraderecipesandcatchup.”Forfruitsandvegetables,shehitsafarmstandnearherhousetwoorthreetimesaweek.“I’vebeentryingtoeatorganic,too.Iamnowokaywithpayingalittlemoretogetsomethinglocalororganic.MyhusbandthinksI’mcrazybuthesupportsme.”AsDonnamadethesamerecipesoverandoveragain,shefoundherself

experimentingwiththem.“Iusedtofolloweverythingtotheletter.NowI’mnotaslavetoarecipe.Itrustmytastemore,andI’mgettingbetteratknowingwhenadishneedssomethingandwhatthatmightbe.”Aswiththeothervolunteers,smallbitsofinformationhadhadanimpact.“I

didn’trealizespicesexpired!Ithoughttheylastedforever.Ithinkit’scrazytomakeapastadishfromapackage.It’saboutthesameamountofworkandminetastessomuchbetter.”She’devenmadegnocchifromscratch,somethingIpersonallyhaveyettomaster.“IhadalotofpotatoesandIthoughtthatIcouldprobablyfigureitout.I’vedoneitafewtimesandI’mgettingreallygoodatitnow.”Notlongago,shemadehermother-in-law’sclassicwhiterolls.Thefirsttime

shetriedthem,theyturnedoutwell.WhenDonnamadethemathermother’shouse,theyburned.“Inthepast,Iwouldhavethoughtitwasmyfault.See?ThisisproofthatIcan’tcook.ButthistimeIthought,Oh,well,Icanmakethese,it’sheroven,andthisisn’taboutmyability.It’sabiggershiftinmyownself-worth.”Shecreditsachickenwithsomeofherconfidence.“Ihadwantedtoroastachicken,butIalwaysfeltintimidated.”Afewmonths

ago,shehadboughtherfirstwholechicken.Shedelightedinthesenseofvictorywhenitturnedoutperfectly.Nowroastchickenisoneofherstaples.“Aweekago,myfriendcameoverandshesaid,‘Wow,lookatyou,you’reanamazingcook.’AndIthought,What?It’sjustaroastchicken.”Thensherememberedthatnotthatlongagothatwasabigdeal.“SoI’veencouragedpeoplearoundmetocook.Iknowthatitmakessucha

difference.Smallchangesputtogethercanbebigenoughtochangeyourwholelife,”shesaid.“Ihaveafriendwhoalwaysboughthervegetablesprecut.WhenIaskedwhy,shesaidshewasscaredofknives.Iwas,too,beforethisstarted.SoIshowedherhowit’sdone,soshecouldgetpastherfear.”

showedherhowit’sdone,soshecouldgetpastherfear.”This,shesaid,wasthegreatestlesson.“Yougetsoafraidofthingsandthen

youdothemandthink,WhatwasIsoafraidof?Youjusthavetodoit.”HowhadIchanged?Myspicedrawerisimmaculate,thankstotheGreatSpiceCleanoutof2009.Ourfreezerislinedwithpasture-raisedbeef,pork,andchicken,anodtothevariousclassesonthesubjectand,inaway,acirclebacktomyearlylifeonthefarminMichigan.Imakesoupatleastonceaweeknowtocleanoutmyfridge.AsThierrysuggested,wehaveaphotointhebackofourfridge,animageofMikeandmeembracinginParis,takenbyHollyduringtheAAAtour.IoftenthinkofthatspeechIgaveattheCordonBleugraduation.Inablurof

anxietyandgrief,Iurgedthegraduatestofindsomethingtheywerepassionateaboutandjustgoforit.WhatIdidn’trealizethenwasthatIneededthatadviceasmuchasanyoneintheaudience,andIlearnedasmuchasormorethananyofthevolunteersoverthecourseoftheproject,includingunexpectedthingsIdidn’tevenknowneededtochange.Notlongaftertheprojectended,Mikeannouncedthathewasgoingtomake

Alfredosauce.Ihovered.“Maybeyoushouldaddsomegarlic,”Istarted.“Youmightnotwanttostiritsomuch.”Then,“Oh,hey,youknow,youcouldaddsomeofthechickenstockinthefridge.It’sadifferentwaytodoit,but...”Mikehandedmethespatula.“Fine,youfinishitthewayyouwantit.”“ButIwasjusttryingtobehelpful,”Itoldhim.“ThisiswhyIdon’tliketocookwithyouinthekitchen,”hesaidheatedly.

“YouknowwhyIalwaysmakeThaifood?Younevertrytocorrectmeonit.”Iknewhowhefelt.Itreplayedasimilarscenefromearlierinthesummer.WhenwemovedbacktotheUnitedStatesin2005,Ihadn’townedacarfor

sixyears.Mikewouldsitinthepassengerseatandofferme“helpful”tips.“Kat,there’sapedestrianoverthere.”Then,“Oh,you’llprobablywanttoslowdown,there’sasharpturncomingup.”Or,ifhefeltthatIwasgoingtooslowly,“Youknowthespeedlimitisforty-fivehere,right?”Itmademesonervous,I’dsecond-guessmyself.Evenifhedidn’tsayaword,

Ifelthimsilentlycritiquingmyeverymove.OnlyweeksbeforetheAlfredoepisode,Ihadpulledover,unbuckledmyseatbelt,andsaid,“Fine,youdrive.”Hisshockatmyresponsewasthesameasminetohisirritatedresignationaboutthepasta.Inthemidstofaprojectdesignedtoencouragepeopletocook,itseemedI

thwartedthepersonclosesttome.Ilearnedtobackoff,tolethimexplorehis

thwartedthepersonclosesttome.Ilearnedtobackoff,tolethimexplorehisowntastesandgivehimthereignofthekitchennowandthen.Asaresult,heflourishedasacook.Nowweroutinelycooktogether.Butthat’sthethingaboutteaching.Youfindlessonsyouneverexpected

beyondtheonesyou’vetaught.I’mgratefulforthatexistentialcrisisonstageinParis.Sometimesweneedagoodshake-uptoremindusofwhoandwhereweareinlifeandtopromptustochangecourses.AmIachef?Notreally,buthowwelldoesasingleworddefineus?JuliaChildneverneededorwantedthetitleofchef.Iwrite,Icook,Iteach.IknowthatI’mthesumofthosepassions.Withthat,I’mofftotakeaclassoncanningwithShannon.Sherecently

earnedher“MasterCanner”designation.Lastsummer,Shannondidn’tknowhowtoholdaknife.Tomorrow,shewillteachmehowtopreservepears.It’sthemostfittingclosetothecirclethatIcanimagine.Welive,welearn,weteachoneanother.Isn’tthatthewayitshouldbe?

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ExtraRecipes

Inthissection,you’llfindafewotherrecipestaughtinordevelopedasaresultoftheproject.Mostaremeanttoreplicateitemsfrequentlypurchased.Goahead,givethematry.

BakedChickenNuggets

MysisterandIstartedmakingthisalternativetotheubiquitousultraprocessedfriedchickennuggetsformynieceSarahadecadeago.Store-boughtbreadcrumbscanbestaleandloadedwithsodium,sotrymakingyourown.Toasttwoslicesofbread,letthemcool,andprocessthemintocrumbsinasmallfoodprocessor.Youcanalsousepanko,Japanesebreadcrumbs,ortossingroundcornflakesforextracrunch.Cookingthechickenonacoolingrackallowsthedryheattocrispbothsides,butifyoudon’thaveone,simplycoataparchmentorfoil-linedcookiesheetwithcookingspray,andturnthechickenpiecesoveraftertenminutes.Trytouserealcheeseratherthanacannedvariety;itwillmakeabigdifferenceinflavor.MAKESABOUT2DOZENNUGGETS1 poundsskinless,bonelesschickenbreastsortenders1cupbreadcrumbscupgratedParmesancheeseteaspoonkoshersalt1teaspoondriedthymeormixedherbsPinchofcayenne(optional)Freshlygroundblackpepper1eggcupskimmilk,yogurt,orbuttermilkCookingspray

Preheattheovento400°F.Placeacoolingrackinthecenterofacookiesheet.Setaside.Cutthechickenbreastsinto1 -inchpieces.Inashallowbowloralargeplastic

bag,mixtogetherthebreadcrumbs,cheese,salt,driedherbs,cayenne(ifusing),andafewgrindsofblackpepper.Combinetheeggandmilkinasmallbowl.Dipthechickenintothemilkmixtureandthencoatitwellwiththebreadcrumb

mixture,eitherinabowlorbytossingitinsidethebag.Placethecoatedchickenpiecesonthecoolingrackandputthecookiesheetintotheoven.Dependingonyourovenandthesizeandthicknessofthechicken,thepieceswilltake15to20minutesuntilfirmandcookedthrough.Spritzthechickenlightlywithcookingsprayandthenplacethecookiesheetunderthebroilerfor1to2minutes,untilbrowned,ifdesired.

CreamofMushroomSoup

Many“creamof”condensedsoupsarelittlemorethansimplewhitesauceseasilyreplicatedathome.Theresulttastesbetterandcontainsfarlesssodium,preservatives,andfatthanyou’llfindinthecannedvariety.Youcanuseanyvarietyofdriedmushroomthatfitsyourbudgetandtaste,butavoidshiitake,asitspronouncedflavormaythrowoffmanyrecipes.Forbestvalue,buymushroomsinbulk;youcanfindthemonlineandinwarehousestores.Mushroombouilloncanbefoundinhealth-foodstores,Italianfoodspecialtystores,oronline.YIELDSROUGHLYTHEEQUIVALENTOFAN11-OUNCECANouncedriedmushrooms(about1tablespoon)8ounceshotwater1 tablespoonsbutter1 tablespoonsflourcupcoldmilkteaspoonmushroomorbeefbouillonSaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperInabowl,steepthedriedmushroomsinthehotwateruntiltheysoften

accordingtothepackagedirections.Removethemushroomswithafork,reservingthedarkliquid,or“tea.”Chopthemfinely,andsetaside.Heatthebutterinasmallsaucepanovermedium-highheat.Onceit’smelted,

addtheflour.Whiskcontinuouslyasthemixturebubblesforabout2minutes,untilitsmellslikepopcorn,thenremovethepanfromtheheat.Whiskinthecoldmilkuntilblended.Returntotheheatandaddthesteepingliquid,thechoppedmushrooms,andthebouillon.Addapinchortwoofsaltandafewgrindsofcoarsegroundpepper.Bringtoalight,bubblyboilandthensimmerforabout5minutesovermedium-lowheat,untilitthickens.Taste,andaddmoresaltandpepperifdesired.Variation:CreamofChicken

Use8ouncesofchickenstockinplaceofthedriedmushroomsandwaterandteaspoonchickenbouilloninplaceofthemushroomorbeefvarieties.

EasySpaghettiSauce

Lessexpensive,tastier,andhealthierthanmostjarsofpastasauce,thiscanbemadeinroughlythetimeittakestoboilpastaandtossaquicksalad.Asabonus,youcanaddfreshorleftovervegetablesorotherflavorings.Thisalsomakesaterrificpizzasauce.SERVES4WITHPASTA4tablespoonsoliveoilonion,finelychopped(about cup)1 teaspoonsdriedmixedItalianherbs3garliccloves,choppedOne14-ouncecantomatosaucePinchofredpepperflakes(optional)cupwater1bayleafCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper1tablespoonbalsamicvinegar(optional)Inasaucepanovermediumheat,warmtheoil,thencooktheonionandherbs

untiltender.Addthegarlic,stir,andcookfor1minute.Addthetomatosauce,redpepperflakes,water,andbayleaf,plusacoupleofpinchesofcoarsesaltandafewcranksofblackpepper.Bringjusttoaboil,andthenimmediatelylowertheheattoasimmer.Cook,uncovered,onlowheatfor15minutes.Addthevinegar,ifusing,andcookanadditional2minutes.Tasteandadjusttheseasonings.Removethebayleafbeforeserving.Consideraddingthefollowing:About cupgreenand/orblackoliveswiththeonionsforaputtanesca-stylesauceHandfuloffinelychoppedmushroomswiththeonionsRedwineinplaceofthewaterjustbeforesimmeringfora

cabernet-stylesauceAtablespoonortwoofchoppedfreshherbs,suchasbasil,oreg-ano,orparsley,attheveryendofcookingAbout poundcookedhamburgerorcubedchickenwiththeonions3tablespoonsvodkaand cupcream5minutesbeforetheendofcooking

Pomodoro(FreshTomatoSauce)

Besuretohavethepastacookingandalltheingredientsreadybeforestartingthesauce;thisisreadymorequicklythanyou’dexpect.Flavorfulfreshtomatoesmakeallthedifferencehere;cherrytomatoesworkespeciallywellandthey’reavailableyear-round.Justcuttheminhalf.Carefullyscoopoutabitofthepastawatertofinishthesauce.MAKESENOUGHFORABOUT4SIDEPORTIONSOR2MAIN-DISHSERVINGS8ouncesdriedpasta,suchaspenneorlinguine,or12ouncesfreshpastaCoarsesalt1tablespoonoliveoil2to3garliccloves,mincedAbout12ouncestomatoes,choppedcupParmesancheese,gratedPinchortwoofhotpepperflakesHandfulofchoppedparsleyorbasilFreshlygroundblackpeppertotasteBoilwaterforthepasta.Addatleast1tablespoonofsalttothewater;it

shouldtasteslightlysalty.Cookthepastaaccordingtothepackagedirections;reserveabout cupofpastawateraftercooking.Meanwhile,addtheoliveoiltoasautépanovermedium-highheat.Addthe

garlicandcookfor1minute;besurenottoburnitoryou’llneedtostartover.Addthetomatoesandanyothervegetables(seebelow),andcookuntilthevegetablesaresoftened,about3to5minutesfortomatoesontheirown,longerifyouaddothervegetables.Addthereservedpastawaterandcookuntilthesauceisreducedslightlyand

therestoftheingredientsbegintobreakdown,aboutanother2to3minutes.

Removefromtheheat,addthecheese,redpepperflakesandparsleyorbasil(ifusing),severalcranksoffreshblackpepper,andsaltifneeded.Consideraddingthefollowing:SplashofcreamattheendofcookingforamorecreamytextureHandfulofadditionalchoppedvegetables,suchaszucchini,artichokes,olives,and/orasparagus,toextendthesauceandofferadditionalflavorShrimpordicedcookedchickenwiththetomatoes(Shrimpcanbeaddedraw,butbesuretocookthemthoroughly;theyshouldturnwhitethroughoutandcurluptightly.)

PotageParmentier(LeekandPotatoSoup)

ThisisinexpensiveFrenchsoulfood.Ifleeksaren’tavailable,trysweetonions.Makesaboutfourtosixservings.3mediumleeks2tablespoonsbutter1poundpotatoes,peeledanddiced1bayleafand teaspoondriedthyme,orabouquetgarni2quartswaterorchickenorvegetablestockcupwhippingcream,or2tablespoonsbutter,softenedCoarsesaltandfreshlygroundblackpepperCayennetotaste(optional)3tablespoonsmincedparsleyorchivesPreparetheleeksbydiscardingtherootsandthetoughgreenupperstalks.

Slice,thenrinsetheminwatertoremoveanyresidualdirt.Ina4-quartorlargersaucepan,melt2tablespoonsofbutter,thensautétheleeksforabout5minutes,untiltheyaresoftenedandtranslucent.Addthepotatoes,bayleafandthymeorbouquetgarniandwaterorstock.Simmerforabout40minutes,untilthevegetablesaretender.Removefromtheheat.Discardthebayleaf.Breakdownthevegetableswith

aforkorapotatomasher,orpureeinablender.Returntotheheat.Addthewhippingcreamor2tablespoonsbutter.Taste.Addsaltandpepperifneeded,andabitofcayenneifdesired.Garnishwithchoppedparsleyorchivesandacoupleofcranksofblackpepper.

A“CheatSheet”toFlavorProfiles

WhatmakessomethingtasteItalianorCajunorMoroccan?Whethercraftingvinaigrette,seasoningchicken,ordevelopingasoup,understandingtheflavorsofingredientsthathelptodefinevariouscuisinescanbedeeplyuseful.Everycuisinehasitsregionalvariations;Basquecuisineisvastlydifferent

fromtheclassicdishesfromProvence,butthey’rebothFrench.Soconsiderthisashorthandreferencetoafewculinarystereotypes.Don’toverdoit.Tryincorporatingtwotofouringredientsfromacuisinegrouptotiltaflavorprofileinthatgeneraldirection.Cajun/Creoledarkroux,onions,celery,greenpepper,tomatoes,parsley,cayenne,Cajunspiceblends,blackeningseasonings,lemon,scallions,andouillesausage,crab,shrimpFrenchbutter,shallots,onions,celery,carrots,thyme,tarragon,herbsdeProvence,bayleaves,chives,chervil,capers,redandwhitewine,truffle,softcheeses,Dijonmustard,mushrooms,creamIndiantandoorispices,garammasala,curry,yogurt,coconutmilk,basmatirice,tamarind,cardamom,cumin,coriander,cilantro,fennel,garlic,saffron,fenugreek,driedchiliesItaliangarlic,onions,celery,basil,pesto,prosciutto,Parmigiano-Reggianocheese,mozzarellacheese,pinenuts,tomatoes,artichokes,olives,oliveoil,oregano,lemon,fennel,flat-leafparsley,redpepperflakes,rosemary,whitebeans,balsamicvinegarJapanesemiso,sesameoil,sesameseeds,ricevinegar,sake,soysauce,wasabi,ginger

Mediterranean/Greekoregano,lemon,olives,tuna,rosemary,bayleaves,thyme,oliveoil,lamb,garlic,fetacheese,tomatoes,redonions,fish,shellfishMexican/Tex-Mexcumin,chilipowder,hotsauce,greenpeppers,oregano,lime,garlic,onions,celery,cilantro,tomatoes,scallions,blackbeans,Cheddarcheese,avocadoNorthAfricanmint,lemon,harissa,saffron,turmeric,parsley,cilantro,honey,olives,almonds,dates,raisins,chickpeas,eggplant,greenbellpeppers,carrots,lentils,onion,groundginger,paprika,cumin,cayenne,figsCentral/SouthAsianginger,garlic,scallions,shallots,lemongrass,Thaibasil,cilantro,fishsauce,shrimppaste,soysauce,coconutmilk,sesameseeds,sesameoil,riceorsweetwinevinegar,cilantro,lime,oystersauce,galangal,hotchilipeppers

AcknowledgmentsFirst,here’sanodtothecrewatVikingPenguin,includingmywonderful

editors,StephenMorrisonandRebeccaHunt,publicistLindsayPrevette,editorBeenaKamlaniandcopyeditorRandeeMarullo.I’mthankfulforthewisdomandsupportofagentLarryWeissmanthroughthisproject.Ninevolunteersopeneduptheirhearts,kitchens,andlives,andforthatIwill

beeternallygrateful.I’mbeholdentothevolunteerteachers,chefsThierryRautureau,RobinLeventhal,LauriCarter,andJennyNichols,plusnutritionistBeveKindblade.Lifewouldn’tbethesamewithoutmycheffriendTedLawrence.Icouldn’thavedonethisprojectwithoutmyfriendLisaSimpson,who

soldieredwithmethroughkitchensandchickensandtaughtmealotalongtheway.I’mindebtedtopalsMaggieSavarinoandJeffMannessforlendingtheirremarkabletalentsandenergy.Manypeoplelenttheirtimeofferingfeedbackonthisworkwhileitwasin

progress,amongthemDeirdreTimmons,LauraEvelev,CherieJacobsFeatheringill,LeeMohr,JackieDonnellyBaisa,CindyKane,andPhilipLee.ShaliniGujavartycameonboardasmyassistantduringthewritingofthebookandcontributedresearch,recipetesting,andbeyond.JamaicaJonesdidabang-upjobdouble-checkingmyresearch.Myresidentknifeexpert,BillMagee,keptmybladessharpandmycutleryfactsstraight.MyLeCordonBleuclassmateAnne-CatherineKrugerledmetothecateringkitchenownedbyKristinePottle.I’mgratefultoZoëFrançoisandJeffHertzbergfortheirterrificno-kneadbreadrecipe.Irecruitedmorethan150recipetesterstotryoutandprovidefeedbackfor

recipesinthisbook.ThemostactiveincludedAdrianAmo,LaurenRobinson,MarieAsselin,SusanBaird,JaneBonacci,LibbyBrill,EricCompton,DebCoupland-Porter,GlennDettwiler,JessicaFriedman,MicheleGartner,LisaGlatt,AlkaGoyal,SeikaGray,ScottHarbour,EricHiman,JulieHinson,LindseyHunt,LeeMohr,DaynaQuick,MariaRaynal,DavidRojas,DavidSt.Clair,JeniseSilva,ShannonValderas,MichaelWagner,BrennaWilson,andDianaWisen.IreliedheavilyonmyeducationfromthechefsatLeCordonBleuinParis,

andIknownowthatI’llbeforeverindebtedtothatfamedinstitution.I’m

andIknownowthatI’llbeforeverindebtedtothatfamedinstitution.I’mgratefultothemanypeopleinthefood-writingcommunitywhocontributeddirectlyorindirectlytothisprojectandwhoseworkandresearchinspiresme,includingKenAbala,PamAnderson,JonathanBloom,DinaCheney,AmandaHesser,LiaHuber,DeborahMadison,MarionNestle,MichaelPollan,MichaelRuhlman,JamieOliver,RuthReichl,RickRodgers,JonRowley,KimSeverson,LauraShapiro,FrancesShort,AndyF.Smith,VirginiaWillisandamongmanyothers.ThelateJuliaChildneverfailstomotivateme.PetraMartindevelopedtheWhidbeyIslandWritingRefuge,aquietplacein

thewoodswhereIwroteportionsofthebook.DavidJohnandLineaAndersonlentmetheuseoftheirsailboat.BothspaceswereinadditiontomyusualshelterattheRichardHugoHouse.I’mthankfultothewomaninthesupermarketforhavingthefaithtoleta

strangerhelpheroutwithachicken.Ihopesomedaysheknowshowthatafternoonchangedmylife.Finally,mydeepest,heartfeltappreciationgoestoMikeKlozar,partnerin

everything,writingcoach,editor,technicalguru,ideaman,husband,andloveofmylife.Therearen’tenoughwordsinanylanguagetothankyou.

SelectedBibliographyBlaylock,RussellL.Excitotoxins:TheTasteThatKills.Abingdon,England:HealthPress,1996.Brackman,Pat.TheCompleatIHatetoCookBook.NewYork:Bantam,1988.Cheney,Dina.TastingClub:GatheringTogethertoShareandSavorYourFavoriteTastes.NewYork:DKPublishing,2006.Child,Julia.TheFrenchChefCookbook.NewYork:Knopf,2002.Child,Julia,SimoneBeck,andLouiseBertholle.MasteringtheArtofFrenchCooking.NewYork:Knopf,1961.David,Elizabeth.AnOmeletteandaGlassofWine.Guilford,CT:GlobePequot,1997.Davidson,Alan.ThePenguinCompaniontoFood.Harmondsworth,UK:PenguinBooksLtd.,2002.TheEndoftheLine.Director,RupertMurray;producer,ArcanePictures.DogwoodPictures,2009.Ettingliner,Steve.TwinkiesDeconstructed.NewYork:HudsonStreetPress,2002.Fisher,M.F.K.ServeItForth(ArtofEating).NewYork:NorthPointPress,1989.“Food52”KitchenTourwithAmandaHesser.Producer,Food52.com,2009.http://vimeo.com/5133553.Food,Inc.Directorandproducer,RobertKenner.MagnoliaPictures,2009.Gladwell,Malcolm.Outliers.NewYork:Little,Brown,2008.Gladwell,Malcolm.TheTippingPoint.NewYork:Little,Brown,2002.Jacob,Dianne.WillWriteforFood.NewYork:DaCapoPress,2010.Kallam,TawraJean,andJillCooper.DiningonaDime.Temple,TX:T&LGroup,2004.Katz,DavidL.,andCatherineS.Katz.TheFlavorPointDiet:TheDelicious,BreakthroughPlantoTurnOffYourHungerandLosetheWeightforGood.NewYork:Rodale,2005.Keller,Thomas,andDeborahJones.TheFrenchLaundryCookbook.NewYork:WorkmanPublishing,1999.Kessler,David.TheEndofOvereating.NewYork:Rodale,2009.

KingCorn.Directorandproducer,AaronWoolf.MosaicFilmsInc.,2007.Kriger,Ellie.TheFoodYouCrave.Newtown,CT:Taunton,2008.Kurlansky,Mark.Salt:AWorldHistory.NewYork:Penguin,2003.Millstone,Erik.TheAtlasofFood:WhoEatsWhat,Where,andWhy.Berkeley,CA:UniversityofCaliforniaPress,2008.Mitchell,Margaret.GonewiththeWind.NewYork:Scribner,1936.Moulton,Sarah.SarahMoulton’sEverydayFamilyDinners.NewYork:Simon&Schuster,2010.MyBigFatGreekWedding.Director,JoelZwick.GoldCircleFilms,2002.Oliver,Jamie.Jamie’sFoodRevolution.NewYork:Hyperion,2009.Patel,Raj.StuffedandStarved:Markets,PowerandtheHiddenBattlefortheWorld’sFoodSystem.London:PortobelloBooks,2007.Peterson,James.SplendidSoups.NewYork:Bantam,1993.Pollan,Michael.InDefenseofFood:AnEater’sManifesto.NewYork:PenguinBooksLtd.,2008.Pollan,Michael.“OutoftheKitchen,OntotheCouch.”NewYorkTimesMagazine,July29,2009:MM26.Reichl,Ruth.“TheNewCulinaryOrder.”Keynote,IACPAnnualConference,April22,2010.Ruhlman,Michael.TheElementsofCooking.NewYork:Scribner,2007.Sanders,Laura.“BingingRatsGetHookedonJunkFood.”DiscoveryNews21(Oct2009).Shapiro,Laura.SomethingfromtheOven:ReinventingDinnerin1950sAmerica.NewYork:VikingPenguin,2004.Short,Frances.KitchenSecrets:TheMeaningofCookinginEverydayLife.Oxford,UK:BergPublishers,2006.Smith,AndrewF.,EatingHistory:ThirtyTurningPointsintheMakingofAmericanCuisine.NewYork:ColumbiaUniversityPress,2009.Smith,AndrewF.SouperTomatoes:TheStoryofAmerica’sFavoriteFood.NewBrunswick,NJ:RutgersUniversityPress,2000.Staten,Vince.CanYouTrustaTomatoinJanuary?NewYork:Touchstone,1994.Weber,Karl.Food,Inc:HowIndustrialFoodIsMakingUsSicker,Fatter,andPoorer—andWhatYouCanDoAboutIt.NewYork:PublicAffairs,2009.Wilder,LauraIngalls.LittleHouseonthePrairie.NewYork:HarperCollins,1971.

RecommendedReading

GeneralCookbooks

Bittman,Mark.HowtoCookEverything:2,000SimpleRecipesforGreatFood.Hoboken,NJ:Wiley,2008.Child,Julia.TheWaytoCook.NewYork:Knopf,1989.BetterHomes&Gardens,BetterHomesandGardensNewCookBook.15thed.NewYork:Wiley,2010.Rombauer,IrmaS.,etal.JoyofCooking.NewYork:Scribner,variouseditions.

OnLearningtoCookIntuitively

Anderson,Pam.HowtoCookWithoutaBook:RecipesandTechniquesEveryCookShouldKnowbyHeart.NewYork:BroadwayBooks,2000.Page,Karen,andAndrewDornenburg.TheFlavorBible.NewYork:HachetteUSA,2008.Ruhlman,Michael.Ratio:TheSimpleCodesBehindtheCraftofEverydayCooking.NewYork:Scribner,2009.

ReinventingFamilyDinners

David,Laurie,andKristinUhrenholdt,etal.TheFamilyDinner:GreatWaystoConnectwithYourKidsOneMealataTime.NewYork:GrandCentralFood&Style,2010.Lair,Cynthia.FeedingtheWholeFamily.Seattle,WA:SasquatchBooks,2008.

ReferencesforEveryKitchen

Herbst,SharonTyler,andRonHerbst.TheNewFoodLover’sCompanion.4thed.NewYork:Barron’sEducationalSeries,2007.Joachim,David.TheFoodSubstitutionsBible:Morethan5,000SubstitutionsforIngredients,EquipmentandTechniques.Toronto,ON:RobertRose,2010.QAInternational,TheVisualFoodLover’sGuide.NewYork:Wiley,2009.

CookingforOne

Yonan,Joe.ServeYourself:NightlyAdventuresinCookingforOne.Berkeley,CA:TenSpeedPress,2011.

KnifeSkills

Ward,Chad.AnEdgeintheKitchen:TheUltimateGuidetoKitchenKnives—HowtoBuyThem,KeepThemRazorSharp,andUseThemLikeaPro.NewYork:WilliamMorrowCookbooks,2008.

No-KneadBread

Hertzberg,Jeff,andZoëFrançois.ArtisanBreadinFiveMinutesaDay.NewYork:St.Martin’sPress,2007.Baggett,Nancy.KneadlesslySimple:Fabulous,Fuss-Free,No-KneadBreads.NewYork:Wiley,2009.

StrategiestoSaveMoneyonGroceries

Dacyzyn,Amy.TheTightwadGazette.NewYork:Villard,1992.Longacre,DorisJanzen.More-with-LessCookbook.Scottsdale,PA:HeraldPress,2000.Pennington,Amy.UrbanPantry:TipsandRecipesforaThrifty,SustainableandSeasonalKitchen.Seattle,WA:SkipstonePress,2010.

Soup

Kaul,Leslie,BobSpiegel,etal.TheDailySoupCookbook.NewYork:Hyperion,1999.Blake,Susannah.500Soups:TheOnlySoupCompendiumYou’llEverNeed.Portland,ME:Sellers,2007.

ModernFoodIssues

Bloom,Jonathan.AmericanWasteland:HowAmericaThrowsAwayNearlyHalfofItsFood(andWhatWeCanDoAboutIt).Cambridge,MA:DaCapoPress,2010.Fussell,Betty.TheStoryofCorn.Albuquerque,NM:UniversityofMexicoPress,2004.Nestle,Marion.WhattoEat.NewYork:NorthPointPress,2006.Pollan,Michael.TheOmnivore’sDilemma:ANaturalHistoryofFourMeals.NewYork:PenguinBooks,2006.

UnderstandingNutritionLabels

Farlow,ChristinaHoza.FoodAdditives:Shopper’sGuidetoWhat’sSafe&What’sNot.Lafayette,LA:KISSforHealthPublishing,2007.

VegetarianCooking

Dragonwagon,Crescent.ThePassionateVegetarian.NewYork:WorkmanPublishing,2002.Madison,Deborah.VegetarianCookingforEveryone.NewYork:ClarksonPotter,2007.O’Donnel,Kim.TheMeatLover’sMeatlessCookbook.Cambridge,MA:DaCapoPress,2010.

IndexofRecipes

A“CheatSheet”toFlavorProfiles

BakedChickenNuggetsBasicAlfredoSauceBlissfullySimpleChickenStockBraisedPorkwithPotatoesandCabbage

CreamofChickenSoupCreamofMushroomSoupCreamyChocolateFrosting

DIYVinaigrette

EasySpaghettiSauce

FishenPapillote,orBakedinPaperFiveMarvelousWaystoCookVegetableswith“FlavorSplashes”

Mike’sYellowCake

No-KneadArtisanBreadforBusyPeople

PaellaValencianaPomodoro(FreshTomatoSauce)PotageParmentier(LeekandPotatoSoup)

RusticItalianFarmhouseZucchini“Sauce”withPenne

SpicyShrimpinSaffronTomatoSauce

VelvetyChilledRosemaryCarrotSoup

YourBasicBraiseYourBasicOmeletYourBasicRoastedChicken

ALSOBYKATHLEENFLINN

TheSharperYourKnife,theLessYouCry:Love,Laughter,andTearsattheWorld’sMostFamousCookingSchool

1Alsoknownaswildleeks,atrendyvegetableamongtheforagingandfarmers’marketset.2

Asmallshopthatsellsinexpensivefriedfishandfries.3

Frenchfries.4

Sodiumcaseinateisanothernameformonosodiumglutamate(MSG).5

MSGisachemicalderivedfromthemonosodiumsaltoftheaminoacidglutamicacid.It’smadebyprocessingfermentedstarch,corn,sugarbeets,sugarcane,ormolasses.Likeaspartame,it’sanexcitotoxinthatstimulatestheneuralsystem’s“pleasure”cells,resultinginincreasedappetite.Whenresearchersstudyingobesityneedtofattenuplabrats,theydosetheanimals’foodwithMSG.6

Partiallyhydrogenatedpalmoilisonthehitlistofmanynutritionists;althoughcheap,it’sconsideredamajorarterycloggerbyseveralfoodscientists.7

TomwasajudgeonseasonsixofTopChef,whileThierrywasacheftestantonTopChefMasters.8

Ioriginallyselectedninewomenandoneman,butthetokenmaledroppedoutbeforethefirstclass.9

TheWeightWatcherspointssystemusespredeterminedscoresforfoodbasedonitsnutritionalvaluetohelpmembersavoidovereating.10

Ilearnedlaterthey’replasticcans,amiracleofmodernpackagingscience.Thecontentsdonotneedtoberefrigerated,buttomaketheproductfeel“fresh,”themarketerssellitthatway.11

Anne-Catherinetookitinstridethatshewaseditedoutofmyfirstbook.SherunsACapriceKitchen,arestaurantinBallard,Washington.Youshouldgiveitatry.12

Forgingisameansofshapingmetaltoproduceapiecethatisstrongerthanan

Forgingisameansofshapingmetaltoproduceapiecethatisstrongerthananequivalentcastormachinedpart,generallythroughtheuseofheatandpressure.Thinkhammerandanvil.13

MetallurgistsmeasurerelativehardnessontheRockwellHardnessScale,orHRC.Mostknivesscoreinthe54to60range.JapanesebrandstendtobeharderthanEuropeanbrands.SoaJapanese-craftedShunorGlobalknifemightscore61HRC,whileaGerman-madeWüsthofrates56HRC.Inadditiontohardness,there’scarboncontent.Themostcommonsteelrecipeforknivesworldwidefallsintogradesof440A,B,orC.Thelowest,440A,tendstobeasoftsteelthatdullseasily,butit’scheaperandeasiertomanufacturethanthehigher-carbonvariety,somostcheapknifeblocksare440A.Thatexplainswhysomanybadknivesexistintheworld.14

“Supertasters”isatermcoinedbyYaleUniversityresearcherLindaBartoshuk,whostumbledonthenotionthatpeople’sabilitytotastevarieswidelywhiledoingstudiesonsaccharin.Supertastersreadilytasteabittersyntheticcompoundfoundinsaccharinknownas6-n-propylthiouracil.Nontasterscan’tdetectitatall.15

Ifyou’veeverwonderedwhatwasinsidethechicken,the“giblets”includetheneck,theliver,andtheheart.They’retraditionallystoredinsidethebird’scavity.Poultryproducersoftensellchickenswithoutthesebitsbecauseconsumersdon’tknowwhattodowiththem.Rodgerssuggestssimmeringthemwithafewveggiesinaquartofwaterforaneasychickenbroth.16

Determiningaccuratenumbersformeatconsumptionissomethingofadarkart;theUSDAputsthefigureatsixtypoundsperpersonannually,whiletheAmericanMeatInstitutesaysitmorelikeonehundredpounds,withothersputtingfiguressomewhereinbetween.Nomatterthesource,chickenbeatsbeef.17

Theprimarydifferenceisintheageofthechicken,whichinturndeterminestheweightandtendernessofthebird.Abroiler/fryerweighsaroundthreeandahalfpoundsandisabouttenweeksold.Roastersthattipthescalesuptofivepoundscanbeuptoeightmonthsold,whilestewingfowlareevenolder.Theoddbirdoutinherlineupwasthecapon,whichhistoricallywascreatedbycastratingaroostertocauseittobecomeaplump,tenderbird;later,syntheticsexhormoneswereusedforthesameeffect.Duetotheindustrializationofpoultry,capons,stewingchickens,andolderhensarerarities.

stewingchickens,andolderhensarerarities.18

TheCenterforScienceinthePublicInterestreportsthatwaterorbrinecanaccountforasmuchas15percentoftheweightinapackageofchicken,andestimatesthatthispracticegenerates$2billioninaddedrevenueperyearforthepoultryindustry.19

Inductionworksthroughmagnetictransference;onemoleculeexcitesanotherthroughdirectphysicalcontact.WhenIwasaskedthisquestionthefirsttimeduringademonstration,IthrustthemicrophoneatMike.Hewasforcedtodefineitonthespot.Itsoundedquitesensual.20

Presumablyduetobadpress,in2010theHFCSlobbyaskedtheFoodandDrugAdministrationforpermissiontoshiftitsnametocornsugar.21

Diammoniumphosphate,alsoknownasDAP,usedasayeastnutrienthere,isalsousedasafertilizer,toenhancetheflavorofnicotineincigarettes,andiswidelyaddedtofire-fightingagents.22

Bytheendof2008,morethan184,500casesofBSEhadbeenconfirmedintheUnitedKingdom,accordingtotheCentersforDiseaseControl.Inhumans,thediseasemanifestsprimarilyasCreutzfeldt-Jakobdisease(vCJd),andasofOctober2010,atotalof217casesofvCJdhadbeenreportedinelevencountries.IntheUnitedKingdom,theepidemicpeakedin1999.InNorthAmerica,twenty-onecasesofBSEhadbeenreportedbymid-2010,threeintheUnitedStatesandeighteeninCanada.23

Denmarkhasthehighestconsumptionofgroundbeefinternationally.24

ThisfigureisbasedonstudiesbytheUnionofConcernedScientists,whicharguesthatheavyantibioticuseinanimalsmaybeacontributingfactorintheriseofantibioticresistanceinhumanswhoeatcommerciallyraisedmeat.25

TheEuropeanUnionisnotsokeenonNorthAmericanbeef.Ablanketimportbanhasbeenthesubjectofintensepoliticalandlegalwrangling.TheWorldTradeOrganizationprobablywishesthewholethingwouldjustgoaway.26

Cornissocomplexthatentirebooksandfilmsaredevotedtothesubject.TwoIrecommendarethedocumentaryKingCornandthebookTheStoryofCornbyBettyFussell(UniversityofMexicoPress,2004).27

Thereasonwhytheterm“natural”islessmeaningfulforchickensisbecausegrowthhormonesareprohibitedinpoultryingeneral;theUSDAallowsminimalantibioticusein“natural”chickensbutdoesn’tspecifytheamount.28

PorkshoulderisalsoknownasporkbuttorBostonbutt,ahistoricalreferencetothebutcheringstyleusedbyBoston-areabutchersthatleftmoremeatandlessboneontheshouldercuts.Thepiecesweretypicallyshippedincasksorbarrels,colloquiallyknownas“butts,”hencetheterm.29

Onpage200ofmyfirstbook,TheSharperYourKnife,theLessYouCry,IcallforChileanseabassinarecipe.Isuggestyoutryanotherresponsiblycaughtwhitefishinstead.Thanks.30

Farm-raisedsalmoniscontroversial.Ittakesthreepoundsofwildfishtogrowonepoundoffarmedsalmon,accordingtotheMontereyBayAquarium.Mostarefarmedinopenpensandcagesincoastalwaters,andit’seasyforwaste,parasites,antibiotics,anddiseasesfromthepennedfishtoseepintoopenwater.(Importedfarmedshrimphassimilarissues.)Ifyoubuyfarmedsalmon,trytosticktothosethatarereferredtoas“tank-raised”or“tank-farmed.”31

Ketaisthesalmonformerlyknownas“chum.”Intermsofquality,it’sgenerallyconsideredatthebottomofthesalmontotempole.32

Regionalguidesareavailablefordownloadathttp://seafoodwatch.org.33

Issueswithfoodchemicalscancropupyearsafterapproval,yettheFDAlacksmuchpowertoinvestigateorpullapprovedchemicalsofftheshelves.Sinceitwasintroducedin1993,consumershavefiledmorethanfourthousandcomplaintstotheFDAaboutaspartame,morecommonlyknownasNutraSweet.Thischemicalaccountsfor70percentofallcomplaintsreceivedbytheagencyforavarietyofhealthclaims.Itremainsacontroversy,witheachsideclaimingtheotherdoesn’thaveenoughproof.34

Thereareotherclaimstothe“original”Thanksgiving,bothinCanadaandbythe

Thereareotherclaimstothe“original”Thanksgiving,bothinCanadaandbytheSpanishinSt.Augustine,Florida.35

TheU.S.DepartmentofLaborreportsthatin2008,theaverageAmericanspent5.6percentofhisorherwagesonfoodeatenathomeand4percentonfoodeateninrestaurantsorfast-foodjoints,orabitmorethan9.6percenttotal.