The Lost Explorer - avalonlibrary.netavalonlibrary.net/ebooks/Conrad Anker, David Roberts - The Lost... · friend and partner. Scraggly-bearded, soft-spoken, quicksilver smart, slyly

ALSOBYDAVIDROBERTS

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EscapeRoutes:FurtherAdventureWritingsofDavidRoberts

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JeanStafford:ABiography

MomentsofDoubt:AndOtherMountaineeringWritings

GreatExplorationHoaxes

Deborah:AWildernessNarrative

TheMountainofMyFear

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Copyright©1999byConradAnkerandDavidRoberts

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ISBN0-7432-0192-2

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TotheshiningmemoryofGeorgeLeighMalloryandAndrewIrvine

Contents

PROLOGUE

SnickersandTea

MonDieu!—GeorgeMallory!

Dissonance

MalloryofEverest

Rescue

TeethintheWind

TheSecondStep

Apotheosis

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

INDEX

—CourtesyoftheAmericanAlpineClubLibrary,Golden,Colorado

OnJune15,thedaybeforeleavingBaseCampforhome,thesurvivingmembersofthe1924Everestexpeditionwrotetheirnamesonapieceofpaper,leavingspaceontheleftforthesignaturesoftheteam’sillandabsentleader,GeneralCharlesBruce,aswellasofthevanishedIrvineandMallory.Thesewereclippedfromlettersreceivedandnoteswrittenonthemountainandpastedin.TheoriginalpagewaslaterboundintoacopyofTheFightforEverest,whichwaspublishedin1925.

Prologue

DR

LIKEMOSTCLIMBERS,IgrewupsteepedinthelegendofMalloryandIrvine.Indeed,thelong,richnarrativeofmountaineeringcontainsnomorestirringorenigmaticchapter.Asateenager,clumpingupastonyridgetowardthewind-lashedapexofsomenondescriptpeakinmynativeColorado,Ioftenconjuredupthatheroicpair,anglingintotheskyonJune8,1924,fightingtheirwayhigherthanhumanbeingshadeverclimbed,astheyclosedinonthesummitofMountEverest.

Atthatmoment,tendaysshyofhisthirty-eighthbirthday,GeorgeLeighMallorywasBritain’sfinestmountaineer.Amanblessedwithapreternaturalgracefulness,withbeautyandcharmthatdazzledhisfriendsandadmirers,hehadbecomeobsessedwithreachingthehighestpointonearth.Hispartner,Andrew“Sandy”Irvine,arelativenoviceattwenty-two,stillanundergraduateatOxford,hadnonethelessprovenhimselftheperfectacolyteinthisquestforanalpinegrail.

Whattheleaderofthe1924expedition,onwhichMalloryandIrvinewerelost,wroteafterwardringstruetoday—Mallorywas“thegreatestantagonistthatEveresthashad—orisliketohave.”AndIrvine,thoughdestinedeveraftertolanguishintheshadeofMallory’sfame,remains,inthevignetteofanotherteammate,theepitomeofthe“naturaladept….Hecouldfollow,ifnotlead,anywhere.”

At12:50ontheafternoonofJune8,1924,climbingsoloto26,000feetinsupportofthesummitduo,NoelOdellsawthecloudspartbriefly,givinghimafugitiveglimpseofapairoffiguresfarabovehim,outlinedagainstthesky,“movingexpeditiously”overasteepstepofrockandiceonthenortheastridge,lessthanathousandfeetbelowthetop.Thishascomedowntousasperhapsthemosthauntingsightingintheannalsofexploration.Thenthecloudsclosedin,andMalloryandIrvinevanishedintohistory.

WiththesoleexceptionofAmeliaEarhart,nolostexplorerinthetwentiethcenturyhasprovokedamoreintenseoutpouringofromanticspeculationthanGeorgeMallory.Thequestionofwhathappenedtohimandhisyoungcompanion,ofhowthosetwobravemenmettheirfate,isknottyenough.WhatspurstheimaginationtoahigherflightisthepossibilitythattheymighthavereachedEverest’ssummitbeforetheydied—twenty-nineyearsbeforeEdmundHillaryandTenzingNorgaymadethemountain’sofficialfirstascent.IfMalloryandIrvinehadsucceeded,theycouldhavelaidfairclaimtohavingpulledoffthegreatestmountaineeringfeateverperformed.

ThusthemysteryofMalloryandIrvinewashandeddowntoalllatergenerationsofclimbers.Butforme,atageeighteen,theconundrumtookonamorepersonaldimension.AsafreshmanatHarvard,Idriftedintothecircleoftheuniversity’smountaineeringclub,whichatthetimecomprisedthemostaccomplishedgangofcollegeclimbersinthecountry.Amongthesixorsevenespeciallytalentedandflamboyantupperclassmen,whohadalreadynotchedtheirbeltswithsuchdauntingCanadiansummitsasLogan,Waddington,andStilettoNeedle,oneinparticularbecamefirstmyhero,thenmymentor,andthenmy

friendandpartner.

Scraggly-bearded,soft-spoken,quicksilversmart,slylyiconoclastic,brilliantonverticalrockandice,absentmindedasadreamypreschooler,RickMillikanseemedcutfromaVikingmold.OnanautumnweekendattheShawangunks,inNewYorkstate,RickdraggedmeupthehardestandmostexhilaratingrockpitchIhadyettackled;thatJanuary,hebroketrailalongthefrozencrestofNewHampshire’sPresidentialRange,asIstruggledtokeepupina-30ºF.gale.

Sometimeduringthatfreshmanyear,IlearnedthatRickwasGeorgeMallory’sgrandson.Bornin1941,Rickofcoursehadneverknownhisillustriousforebear.Hismother,Clare,theeldestofMallory’sthreechildren,hadbeeneightwhenherfatherdisappeared.Sherememberedmuchabouthim,andshepasseddownherstoriestoherthreesons.

AsRickandIbecamegoodfriends,wesometimestalkedaboutMallory.HebelievedhisgrandfatherhadsummittedthatJunedaysolongago;pressedforarationale,hefellbackonintuition.“Thoseguysweregood,”hesaid,ifmemoryserves.“Theyknewwhattheyweredoingupthere.”

Rick’sothergrandfatherwasRobertMillikan,ofthefamousoildropexperiment,whohadwonthe1923NobelPrizeinphysics.ClareMalloryhadmarriedRobertMillikan’sson,Glenn,onlytowatch,onedayin1947,asherhusbandwaskilledashestoodbesideher,inaclimbingaccidentintheGreatSmokyMountainsofTennessee.Iknewlittlemoreaboutthiscatastrophethanthebarefacts:Rick’sfatherhadbeenhitontheheadbyafallingstone,inaflukyconcatenationofminormiscalculationsonasmallcliffinthemiddleofnowhere.Hehaddiedinstantly.Attwenty,Iwastooshyandawkwardtoprobefurther,ortoaskRicktorecountthemishapthathadcosthimhisfatheratanevenyoungeragethanClarehadlosthers.

Whatseemedremarkable,though,wasthatdespitethetwintragediesofherlife,Clarehadnotonlytoleratedhersons’embraceofthismostdangeroussport—shehadtaughtthemtoclimbandheartilyencouragedtheiralpineplay.OnvisitstoBerkeley,whereRickhadgrownup,IgottoknowClare,whoseemedaclassicEdwardianeccentric—aQuakerfiercelydevotedtothecauseofworldpeace,ablunt-speakingliberalwithnopatienceforhumbug,atruebohemianeveninthebohemiaoflate-1960sBerkeley.

OnmyfirstAlaskanexpedition,totheWickershamWallonMountMcKinleyin1963,RickandI,withfiveteammates,werereportedmissingandfeareddead(ourbushpilot,pokingthroughstormclouds,hadseenourtracksdisappearintoachaosofavalanchedebris).Duringthefourdayswewereunaccountedfor(weweresafelycampedfarabovetheavalanchezone),thenewspapersinterviewedourparents,whogavevoicetoheartsickfearsandhopesagainsthope.OnlyClarewasresolutelyskeptical,tellingthemedia,ineffect,“Nonsense.Thoseboysknowwhatthey’redoing.”

Threeyearslater,oneSeptemberafternoonintheKichatnaSpires,southwestofMcKinley,asRickandIgotwithinfortyfeetofthesummitofanunclimbed,unnamedpeak,abigwindslabbrokebeneathourfeet.Helplesstoslowourfall,weslidandcartwheeledwiththeavalanchetowardafatalcliffthatloomedbelow.Wehadtimetoanticipatetheplungethatlurks,likesomedarkatavisticmemory,inthevulnerablecoreoftheblithestmountaineer’sunconscious,beforetheslide,havingcarriedus350feet,miraculouslychurnedtoahaltashortdistanceabovetheprecipice.

Iamnotsurewhether,orhow,Ricktoldhismotheraboutourclosecall,buttheverynextsummer,hewasbackwithmeinAlaska,probinganunexploredrangewenamedtheRevelationMountains.ThistimeRick’solderbrother,George,whomIhadnotclimbedwithbefore,camealong.(GeorgewasevenmoreabsentmindedthanRick,onceingradschoolinadvertentlylockinghisprofessorinsideawalk-inbird

cage.)

Forfifty-twodays,weenduredtheworstweathertheAlaskaRangecouldflingatus.OnlyinrecentmonthshaveIlearnedthatthatsummer,forthefirsttime,Claregaveintothefearsthateveryparentknows.ShelostsleepcountingthedaysuntilweemergedattheendofAugust,andsheextractedapromisefromGeorgeandRickthatintheRevelationstheywouldneverropeuptogether(better,ifitcametothat,toloseonesonthantwo).

OfcoursethebrothersMillikan,onceontheglacierandoutofreachofMom,promptlydisobeyedher.OnedayGeorgeandRickstormedtowardthesummitofabeautifulpeakwecalledtheAngel,climbingfastalonganarêtestrungwithrocktowersandicecliffs.Theysettledinforthenightinatinybivouactentpitchedonanairyledgesome1,000feetbelowthetop,onlytohaverainturntosleetturntosnowwhippedbyaferociouswind.Sleeplessandhypothermic,theystaggeredoffthemountainthenextday,required,intheatrociousconditions—rimeiceoverslickgranite—torappelalmosthorizontalpitches.Thesamestorm,150milestothenortheast,wasintheprocessofsnuffingoutthelivesofseventrappedclimbersamongtheWilcoxpartyhighonMcKinley.

LastMay,astheelectrifyingnewsthatMallory’sbodyhadbeendiscoveredonEverestcircledtheglobe,IgotintouchwithRickandGeorgeandClare,afteralapseofsomeyears.Morethanever,asthedetailsemerged,Rickclungtothebeliefthatbeforehisfatalfall,Malloryhadreachedthehighestpointonearth.Clare,noweighty-three,hadanothersortofinterest.“Ididn’tfeelanythingmuchatfirst,”shetoldme.“Ifeltthatmyfather’sbodywasfarawayfromhisspirit.ButI’vethoughtaboutitmoreandmoreintheweekssince.Iwasanxioustoknowhowhehaddied.Wasitpeacefully,ashemeditated,orcontorted,inpain?IfoundmyselfwishingIcouldbethereandcomforthiminhispain.

“Butallinall,Iwishtheyhadn’tfoundhim.Iwishthey’dlefthiminpeace.”

Afterallthesedecades,IhadfeltthatinacertainsenseI“knew”Mallorymyself.ButasIresearchedanarticleforNationalGeographicAdventureaboutthediscovery,Ibecameacquaintedwithamanandanexplorerevenmorecharismatic,elusive,andremarkablethanthemythicfigurethathadlodgedinmyhead.AndasImetandtalkedtothemembersoftheexpeditionthathaddeliberatelysetoutlastspringtounravelthemysteryofMalloryandIrvine—beforethetrip,Iwouldhavegiventhemaboutonechancein10,000offindinganythingfromthe1924expedition,letaloneMallory’sbody—Ifoundacrewofstrong,competent,mutuallyloyalclimbers,thekindwhodoourperilouspastimeproud.

Amongthatcrew,however,ConradAnkerstoodout.Oneofthebestmountaineersintheworld,withanastonishinglyvariedrecordoffirstascents,Conradhassomehowescapedthemegalomaniaendemicintheworldofclimbingsuperstars.Heseemsinstead,atthirty-six,amanfirmlygroundedinapersonalhumility;helistenstothecaresandneedsofothersaskeenlyastothesirensongsofhisownambition;andtheBuddhistoutlookthatdrawshimtowardhisHimalayanwanderingshasseepedintohisspirit,givinghimaninnercalm.Thatbedrockstability,thatsenseofwhoheis,emergesinthesottovocenotesConradoccasionallypublishesintheAmericanAlpineJournal,hisonlyrecordofsomeoftheboldestclimbseverventured.Hisproseinthesewell-craftedbutunderstatedchroniclesislikethatofascholarwritingjudiciouslyforanaudienceofhispeers.

Inthecourseofourcollaborationonthisbook,Ibegantorealizethat,inacertainsense,ConradAnkerwascutfromthesameclothasGeorgeMallory.AnditbecameclearthatConradhadanutterlyenthrallingtaletotellofEverest’99,hisownstoryofMalloryandthemountain.

Inthisbook,then,ConradandIhopetogivevoicetothequestofamountaineer,usingalltheskillsandinstinctsthathalfalifetimeofcutting-edgeascentshasingrainedinhisveryfingertips,wholastMay

almostsinglehandedlybroughtbackfromEverestmoreinsightintothepuzzleofMalloryandIrvinethantheeffortsofseventy-fiveyearsofsearchersandtheoristsputtogether.Aswenarratethatquest,wealsoseek,sofarasretrospectandjudgmentallow,torediscoverMalloryhimself,thevisionarylostexplorerwhosebodyConradAnkerfound,andwhosefatewemayatlastbegintodivine.

INTHEPAGESTHATFOLLOW,thepassagesinthefirstperson,dealingprimarilywiththe1999expedition,arethoseofConradAnker.Thethird-personpassages,chieflyhistorical,arebyDavidRoberts.

1SnickersandTea

CA

IHADJUSTSATDOWNtotakeoffmycrampons,becausethetraverseacrosstherockbandaheadwouldbeeasierwithoutthem.Idranksomefluid—acarbohydratedrinkIkeepinmywaterbottle—andsuckedacoughdrop.Atthataltitude,it’sessentialtokeepyourthroatlubricated.

Ilookedoutoverthisvastexpanse.Tothesouthandwest,IcouldseeintoNepal,withjaggedpeaksrangingtowardthehorizon.InfrontofmeonthenorthstretchedthegreatTibetanplateau,brownandcorrugatedasitdwindledintothedistance.Thewindwaspickingup,andsmallcloudswereformingbelow,ontheleesideofsomeofthesmallerpeaks.

Allofasudden,astrongfeelingcameovermethatsomethingwasgoingtohappen.Somethinggood.IusuallyfeelcontentwhentheclimbI’monisgoingwell,butthiswasdifferent.Ifeltpositive,happy.Iwasinagoodplace.

Itwas11:45A.M.onMay1.Wewerejustbelow27,000feetonthenorthfaceofMountEverest.Theotherfourguyswerefannedoutabovemeandtotheeast.Theywereinsight,buttoofarawaytohollerto.Wehadtouseourradiostocommunicate.

Iattachedmycramponstomypack,stoodup,putthepackon,andstartedhikingupasmallcorner.Then,tomyleft,outofthecornerofmyeye,Icaughtaglimpseofapieceofblueandyellowfabricflappinginthewind,tuckedbehindaboulder.I

thought,I’dbettergolookatthis.Anythingthatwasn’tpartofthenaturallandscapewasworthlookingat.

WhenIgottothesite,Icouldseethatthefabricwasprobablyapieceoftentthathadbeenrippedloosebythewindandblowndownhere,whereitcametorestinthehollowbehindtheboulder.Itwasmodernstuff,nylon.Iwasn’tsurprised—therearealotofabandonedtentsonEverest,andthewindjustshredsthem.

ButasIstoodthere,Icarefullyscannedthemountainrightandleft.Iwaswearingmyprescriptiondarkglasses,soIcouldseereallywell.AsIscannedright,Isawapatchofwhite,aboutahundredfeetaway.Iknewatoncetherewassomethingunusualaboutit,becauseofthecolor.Itwasn’tthegleamingwhiteofsnowreflectingthesun.Itwasn’tthewhiteofthechunksofquartziteandcalcitethatcropuphereandthereonthenorthsideofEverest.Ithadakindofmattelook—alight-absorbingquality,likemarble.

Iwalkedcloser.Iimmediatelysawabarefoot,stickingintotheair,heelup,toespointeddownward.Atthatmoment,IknewIhadfoundahumanbody.

Then,whenIgotevencloser,Icouldseefromthetatteredclothingthatthiswasn’tthebodyofamodernclimber.Thiswassomebodyveryold.

Itdidn’treallysinkinatfirst.Itwasasifeverythingwasinslowmotion.Isthisadream?Iwondered.AmIreallyhere?ButIalsothought,Thisiswhatwecameheretodo.Thisiswhowe’relookingfor.ThisisSandyIrvine.

WE’DAGREEDBEFOREHANDonaseriesofcodedmessagesforthesearch.Everybodyonthemountaincouldlisteninonourradioconversations.Ifwefoundsomething,wedidn’twantsomeotherexpeditionbreakingthenewstotheworld.

“Boulder”wasthecodewordfor“body.”SoIsatdownonmypack,gotoutmyradio,andbroadcastamessage:“LasttimeIwentboulderinginmyhobnails,Ifelloff.”Itwasthefirstthingthatcametomind.Ijustthrewin“hobnails,”becauseanoldhobnailedboot—thekindthatwentoutofstylewaybackinthe1940s—wasstilllacedontotheman’srightfoot.ThatwasanotherreasonIknewhewasveryold.

Weallhadourradiosstuffedinsideourdownsuits,soitwasn’teasytohearthem.Oftheotherfourguysoutsearching,onlyJakeNortoncaughtanypartofmymessage,andallheheardwas“hobnails.”Icouldseehim,somefiftyyardsabovemeandawaystotheeast.Jakesatdown,rippedouthisradio,andbroadcastback,“Whatwasthat,Conrad?”

“Comeondown,”Ianswered.Hewaslookingatmenow,soIstartedwavingtheskistickIalwayscarryataltitude.“Let’sgettogetherforSnickersandtea.”

JakeknewI’dfoundsomethingimportant,buttheotherthreewerestilloblivious.Hetriedtowaveandyellandgettheirattention,butitwasn’tworking.At27,000feet,becauseofoxygendeprivation,youretreatintoakindofpersonalshell;therestoftheworlddoesn’tseemquitereal.SoIgotbackontheradioandputsomeurgencyintomythirdmessage:“I’mcallingamandatorygroupmeetingrightnow!”

Whereweweresearchingwasfairlytrickyterrain,downslopingshaleslabs,someofthemcoveredwithadustingofsnow.Ifyoufellinthewrongplace,you’dgoalltheway,7,000feettotheRongbukGlacier.Soittooktheotherguysalittlewhiletoworktheirwaydownandovertome.

Irootedthroughmypacktogetoutmycamera.Thatmorning,atCampV,IthoughtI’dstuckitinmypack,butIhadtwonearlyidenticalstuffsacks,anditturnsoutI’dgrabbedmyradiobatteriesinstead.IrealizedI’dforgottenmycamera.Ithought,Oh,well,ifIhadhadthecamera,Imightnothavefoundthebody.That’sjustthewaythingswork.

WhenItoldafriendaboutthis,heaskedifI’dreadFaulkner’snovellaTheBear.Ihadn’t.Onreadingthatstory,Isawtheanalogy.ThebesthuntersinthedeepMississippiwoodscan’tevencatchaglimpseofOldBen,thehuge,half-mythicbearthathasravagedtheirlivestockforyears.It’sonlywhenIkeMcCaslingivesupeverythinghe’sreliedon—laysdownnotonlyhisrifle,buthiscompassandwatch—that,lostintheforest,he’sgracedwiththesuddenpresenceofOldBeninaclearing:“Itdidnotemerge,appear:itwasjustthere,immobile,fixedinthegreenandwindlessnoon’shotdappling.”

AsIsatonmypackwaitingfortheothers,afeelingofaweandrespectforthedeadmansprawledinfrontofmestartedtofillme.Helayfacedown,headuphill,frozenintotheslope.Atuftofhairstuckoutfromtheleatherpilot’scaphehadonhishead.Hisarmswereraised,andhisfingerswereplantedinthescree,asifhe’dtriedtoself-arrestwiththem.Itseemedlikelythathewasstillalivewhenhehadcometorestinthisposition.Therewerenoglovesonhishands;laterI’dthinklongandhardabouttheimplicationsofthatfact.Itookoffmyownglovestocomparemyhandstohis.I’vegotshort,thickfingers;hiswerelongandthin,anddeeplytanned,probablyfromtheweeksofhavingwalkedthetrackallthewayfromDarjeelingoverthecrestoftheHimalayatothenorthfaceofEverest.

Thewindsofthedecadeshadtornmostoftheclothingawayfromhisbackandlowertorso.Hewasnaturallymummified—thatpatchofalabasterI’dspottedfromahundredfeetawaywasthebare,perfectlypreservedskinofhisback.WhatwasincrediblewasthatIcouldstillseethepowerful,well-definedmusclesinhisshouldersandback,andthebluediscolorationofbruises.

Aroundhisshouldersandupperarms,theremnantsofsevenoreightlayersofclothingstillcoveredhim—shirtsandsweatersandjacketsmadeofwool,cotton,andsilk.Therewasawhite,braidedcottonropetiedtohiswaist,aboutthreeeighthsofaninchindiameter—manytimesweakerthananyropewe’dusetoday.Theropewastangledaroundhisleftshoulder.Abouttenfeetfromhiswaist,Icouldseethefrayedendwheretheropehadbroken.SoIknewatoncethathe’dbeentiedtohispartner,andthathe’dtakenalongfall.Theropehadeitherbrokeninthefall,orwhenhispartnertriedtobelayhimoverarockedge.

Therightelbowlookedasifitwasdislocatedorbroken.Itlayimbeddedinthescree,bentinanunnaturalposition.Therightscapulawasalittledisfigured.Andabovehiswaistonarightrib,Icouldseethebluecontusionfromanupwardpulloftheropeasittooktheshockofthefall.

Hisrightlegwasbadlybroken,bothtibiaandfibula.Withthebootstillon,theleglayatagrotesqueangle.Theyweren’tcompoundfractures—theboneshadn’tbrokentheskin—buttheywereverybadbreaks.Myconclusionwasthatinthefall,therightsideoftheman’sbodyhadtakentheworstoftheimpact.Itlookedasthoughperhapsinhislastmoments,themanhadlaidhisgoodleftlegoverhisbrokenright,asiftoprotectitfromfurtherharm.Theleftbootmayhavebeenwhippedoffinthefall,oritmayhaveerodedandfallenapart.Onlythetongueofthebootwaspresent,pinchedbetweenthebaretoesofhisleftfootandtheheelofhisrightboot.

Goraks—thebigblackravensthathauntthehighHimalaya—hadpeckedawayattherightbuttockandgougedoutaprettyextensivehole,bigenoughforagoraktoenter.Fromthatorifice,theyhadeatenoutmostoftheinternalorgans,simplyhollowedoutthebody.

Themusclesoftheleftlowerlegandthethighshadbecomestringyanddesiccated.It’swhathappens,apparently,tomusclesexposedforseventy-fiveyears.Theskinhadsplitandopenedup,butforsomereasonthegorakshadn’teatenit.

Afterfifteenortwentyminutes,JakeNortonarrived.Thentheothers,onebyone:firstTapRichards,thenAndyPolitz,thenDaveHahn.Theydidn’tsaymuch:just,“Wow,goodjob,Conrad,”or,“ThishastobeSandyIrvine.”LaterDavesaid,“Istartedblinkinginawe,”andTapremembered,“Iwasprettyblownaway.Itwasobviouslyabody,butitlookedlikeaGreekorRomanmarblestatue.”

Theguystookphotos,shotsomevideo,anddiscussedthenuancesofthescene.Thereseemedtobeakindoftabooabouttouchinghim.Probablyhalfanhourpassedbeforewegotupthenervetotouchhim.ButwehadagreedthatifwefoundMalloryorIrvine,wewouldperformasprofessionalanexcavationaswecouldunderthecircumstances,toseeifwhatwefoundmightcastanylightonthemysteryoftheirfate.WehadevenreceivedpermissionfromJohnMallory(George’sson)totakeasmallDNAsample.

TapandJakedidmostoftheexcavatingwork.We’dplannedtocutsmallsquaresoutoftheclothingtotakedowntoBaseCampandanalyze.Almostatonce,onthecollarofoneoftheshirts,Jakefoundanametag.Itread,“G.Mallory.”Jakelookedatusandsaid,“That’sweird.WhywouldIrvinebewearingMallory’sshirt?”

DR

SOMETIMEONTHEMORNINGofJune8,1924,GeorgeMalloryandSandyIrvinesetoutfromCampVI,at26,800feetonthenortheastridge.Thedaybefore,theporterswhohadcarriedgearandfooduptothecampinsupportofthesummitbidbroughtdownanotefromMallory,addressedtotheexpeditioncinematographer,JohnNoel,whowasensconcedatCampIII,morethan5,000feetbelow.

DearNoel,

We’llprobablystartearlyto-morrow(8th)inordertohaveclearweather.Itwon’tbetooearlytostartlookingforuseithercrossingtherockbandunderthepyramidorgoingupskylineat8.0p.m.

Yoursever,

G.Mallory

Noelhada600millimeterlensthattheexpeditionmembersusedlikeatelescopetotracktheirteammates’movementshighonEverest.Allsubsequentcommentatorshaveassumed,asOdelldidonreadingthenote,thatMallory’s“8:0p.m.”wasaslipofthepen,thathemeanttowrite“8:00A.M.”Inthatcase,Mallory’sestimateofwherehewouldbewasexceedinglyoptimistic,foritwasrareintheeraofearlyHimalayancampaignsforapairofclimberstogetofffromanyhighcampbefore6:30inthemorning.

The1924expeditionwasthethirdofthreeattempts—allBritish—ontheworld’shighestmountain;itfollowedathoroughgoingreconnaissancein1921andanervyassaulttheyearafter.OnlyMalloryhadbeenamemberofallthreeexpeditions.YettheweatherinMay1924hadprovedatrocious,defeatingaverystrongteam’sbesteffortseventoputthemselvesinpositionforasummitthrust.LatertheteaplantersinDarjeelingwouldaverthatforatleasttheprevioustwentyyears,“nosuchweatherhadbeenknownatthisseason.”

Then,withtheclimbers’hopesallbutextinguished,themountainhadlaidaspellofgraceuponthem,givingthemdayafterdayoffineweather,althoughthemenwokeeachmorningdreadingtheonsetoftheinevitablemonsoon,which,normallyarrivingaroundJune1,wouldenfoldtheHimalayainafour-monthmiasmaofheavysnow.

AsMalloryandIrvineclosedtheircanvastentandheadedalongthewindsweptridge,theywerefullofaburstinganticipation.Onlyfourdaysbefore,theirteammateE.F.“Teddy”Norton,attheendofagallanteffort,hadreached28,126feet—thehighestanyonehadeverclimbed—beforeturningbackamere900feetbelowthesummit.Nortonhadmadehisgutsypushwithouttheaidofbottledoxygen.MalloryandIrvinewerebreathinggas,andthoughMalloryhadinitiallybeenaskepticaboutitsefficacy,onthe1922expeditionhehadlearnedfirsthandthatclimbersaidedbyoxygenhighonEverestcouldeasilydoubletheclimbingspeedofthosewithout.

Onthe1924assault,ashehadduringthetwopreviousexpeditions,Malloryhadprovenhimselfthestrongestandmostambitiousclimber.Bynow,hispersonalobsessionwithEveresthadcrankedastightasitcouldbewound.Inalettertohiswife,Ruth,writtensixweeksbeforefromChiblung,ontheapproachtoEverest,hehadpredicted,“Itisalmostunthinkable…thatIshan’tgettothetop;Ican’tseemyselfcomingdowndefeated.”

Ifhistwenty-two-year-oldcompanionwasdauntedbyMallory’shubris,hegavenoindicationofit.Inhisdiaryonlyfourdaysbeforehisownattempt,awaitingtheoutcomeofTeddyNorton’sboldsummitbidwithteammateHowardSomervell,Irvinehadwritten,“Ihopethey’vegottothetop,butbyGod,I’dliketohaveawhackatitmyself.”

Eversince1924,observershavewonderedwhyMallorychoseIrvineashispartnerforthesecondsummitattempt,ratherthanthefarmoreexperiencedNoelOdell,whohadroundedintoincomparableformathighaltitudeduringtheprecedingweek.Irvinehadverylittleclimbingexperience,withonlyanexploratoryoutinginSpitsbergenunderhisbelt.(InalettertoRuth,Malloryhadvoicedaqualm,“IwishIrvinehadhadaseasonintheAlps.”)ButonEverest,theOxfordundergraduatehadprovedtobetougherthanseveralofhismoreseasonedcomrades,anuncomplainingworker,andadelightfulcompanion.He

wasalsosomethingofamechanicalgenius,whohadtakenaparttheoxygenapparatusinthefieldandrebuiltitinalighterandmoreefficientform.AndsinceoxygenwouldbethekeytoMallory’sall-outdashforthesummit,itmadesensetohaveIrvinealong.

Thatday,June8,1924,amongtherestoftheteam,onlyOdell,climbingsolouptoCampVIinsupportofthesummitduo,washighonthemountain.Aprofessionalgeologist,hehadchosenthedaytowanderinzigzagsupthenorthface,lookingforunusualformations.Bylatemorning,hewasswimminginaprivateecstasy,forthere,inoneofthemostbarrenplacesonearth,hehaddiscoveredthefirstfossilseverfoundonEverest.

At12:50intheafternoon,Odellmountedasmallcragaround26,000feetjustasthecloudsabruptlycleared.Squintingupward,hewastreatedtothebriefvisionthathasbeguiledandtantalizedallEvereststudentssince.AsOdelllaterwrote:

IsawthewholesummitridgeandfinalpeakofEverestunveiled.Inoticedfarawayonasnowslopeleadinguptowhatseemedtometobethelaststepbutonefromthebaseofthefinalpyramid,atinyobjectmovingandapproachingtherockstep.Asecondobjectfollowed,andthenclimbedtothetopofthestep….Icouldseethattheyweremovingexpeditiouslyasifendeavouringtomakeupforlosttime.

Thenthecloudsclosedoverthescene.OdellclimbedontoCampVI,wherehefound,tohismildalarm,piecesofoxygenequipmentstrewnaboutthetent,suggestingthatIrvinehadperhapsmadesomedesperatelast-minuteadjustmenttotheapparatus.AndOdellwasdisturbedthathehadseenhispairoffriendsstillwellbelowthesummitpyramidatalmost1:00P.M.,orfivehoursafterMallory’sblitheprediction.Anafternoonsnowsquallcleared,butnowOdellcouldseenosignsofhumanpresenceontheupperridge,bathedinwarmsunlight.Hescrambledsome200feetabovethecamp,whistlingandyodelingincaseMalloryandIrvineshouldbenearingitontheirdescent.Then,withaheavyheart,Odellheadeddownthemountain,asMalloryhadorderedhimto,forthesmalltentatCampVIcouldnotholdthreeclimbers.

Duringthenexttwodays,inanastonishingperformance,OdellclimbedfirsttoCampV,thenaloneallthewaybackuptoCampVI.WhenhefoundthetentexactlyashehadleftitonJune8,heknewtheworst.HelaidtwosleepingbagsinthesnowinafigureT—theprearrangedsignaltoateammatewatchingbelowthatallhopewaslost.

DURINGTHESEVENTY-FIVEYEARSafterthe1924expeditionretreatedfromthemountain,onlytwofurtherpiecesofhardinformationcastanylightonthemysteryofMalloryandIrvine’sfate,buteachwasastantalizingasOdell’svisionofthetwinfiguresoutlinedagainstthesky.In1933,onthefirstexpeditiontoEverestafterMallory’s,PercyWynHarrisfoundaniceaxelyingonarockslab,250yardsshortofwhathadcometobecalledtheFirstStep—thusconsiderablybelowwherethepairhadbeenatthetimeofOdell’s12:50sighting.PlainlytheaxebelongedtoeitherMalloryorIrvine,butasapieceofevidence,itwasmaddeninglyambiguous.Hadoneoftheclimbersdroppeditduringtheascent?Orhaditbeendeliberatelylaidaside,asunnecessaryonthemostlyrockyterrainthatstretchedabove?Or,moreominously,diditmarkthesiteofafatalaccidentonthedescent,asonemandroppedtheaxetomakeafutileefforttobelayhisfallingpartner?

From1938,theyearofthelastBritishprewarexpedition,to1960,whenaChineseteamclaimedtomakethefirstascentofEverestfromthenorth,theTibetansideofthemountainwentvirtuallyunvisited.Itwasnotuntil1979thatChinafirstgrantedpermissiontoforeignerstoapproachthemountainthroughits“province”ofTibet.Thatyear,thesecondtantalizingcluetoMalloryandIrvine’sdemisecametolight.

TheclimbingleaderofaSino-Japaneseexpedition,RyotenHasegawa,hadaprovocativeconversationwithoneofitsChinesemembers,WangHongbao.WangtoldHasegawathatfouryearsearlier,in1975,duringthesecondChineseattackonEverest,hehadgoneoutforashortwalkfromCampVI,near27,000feet.Withintwentyminutesofleavinghistent,hehadcomeacrossthebodyofafallenclimber.Itwas,heinsisted,“anoldEnglishdead.”Theman’sclotheshadturnedtodustandblownawayinthewindsofthedecades.Hewaslyingonhisside,andoneofhischeekshadbeenpeckedawaybygoraks.

BetweenHasegawa’sJapaneseandWang’sChinese,theconversationtookplaceinalinguisticmuddle.HasegawawonderedwhetherthedeadmancouldhavebeenaRussianfromalong-rumored(andnowdebunked)secret1952attempt,onwhichsixclimbersweresupposedtohavedied;butWangvigorouslydemurred,repeating“English,English!”

HasegawarealizedthatthebodymightwellhavebeenthatofMalloryorIrvine.ButbeforehecouldquestionWangfurther,onlyadayaftersharinghisstartlingconfidence,theChineseclimberdiedwhenhewasavalanchedintoacrevasse,leavingaprofoundenigmainhiswake.

Duringthelasttwodecades,scoresofexpeditionshaveattackedEverestfromthenorth.Allofthemhavekepttheireyespeeledforanyfurthersignofthelostclimbers,tonoavail.AnAmericanmountaineer-historian,TomHolzel,becameobsessedwiththepuzzle,andafterextensiveresearchandinquiry,narroweddowntheareaofsearchtoalargequadrangleonthenorthface,belowtheridgerouteMalloryandIrvinehadessayed.In1986,Holzelorganizedthefirstexpeditionwiththegoalofsystematicallysearchingforthevanishedpair.Theteamincludedsuchfirst-rateclimbersasDavidBreashears,SueGiller,andDaveCheesmond,butterribleweatherthwartedtheireffortstogohigherthan26,100feet—nearlyathousandfeetbelowHolzel’ssearchzone.(Inretrospect,itwouldbecomeclearthatasearchintheautumnseason,suchasthe1986teamconducted,wasdoomedtofailurebecauseofthevastquantitiesofsnowthesummer-longmonsooninevitablydumps.)

Beforetheexpedition,Holzelhadsynthesizedallhisresearchinahouse-of-cardshypothesisthathelaidoutintheconcludingchapterofFirstonEverest:TheMysteryofMallory&Irvine(co-authoredwithAudreySalkeld).AccordingtoHolzel,MalloryandIrvinefacedtherealizationthattheywouldrunoutofbottledoxygenwellbelowthesummit.Mallorywas,inHolzel’sview,thestrongerclimber,Irvineperhapsintimidatedbyachallengewellbeyondanyhehadpreviouslyfaced.Inanyevent,Irvinegavehisremaininggastohispartner,thendescendedasMalloryheadedsoloforthesummit.

Carriedawaybyhisowntheorizing,Holzelwroteasifrecordingsolidhistory,noteducatedguess:

Splittingupat1P.M.,MalloryquicklyracedupthefinalpyramidofEverest’ssummit.IrvinereturnedpasttheFirstStepandstartedhisdescendingtraverseoftheNorthFaceslabs….Perhapsafternumeroussmallslips,eachcaughtintime,Irvinelostcontrolasbothhisfeetshotoutfromunderhim.Turningtocatchhimselfwithhisiceaxe,itwrenchedoutofhisexhaustedgrip.Hetumbled1,000feettothesnowterracebelow.

HolzelwasfurtherconvincedthatMalloryreachedthesummit,onlytodieofhypothermiainthebivouachecouldnothaveavoided,orinafall,perhapsallthewaytotheRongbukGlacier.

Intheyearsafter1986,mostinformedobserversquestionedHolzel’sassertionthatMalloryhadmadethesummit.Butthenotionofthetwoclimberssplittingup,withIrvinedroppinghisaxeandslippingtohisdeathonthenorthface,cametobeakindofreceivedwisdom.ThebodythatWangHongbaohadfoundnearCampVI,then,hadtobeIrvine’s.ItwasforthisreasonthatallfivesearcherslastMay,astheystaredatthe“marblestatue”lyingfrozenfacedowninthescree,assumedtheywerelookingatSandy

Irvine.

Tosettleforgoodtheall-importantquestionofwhetherMalloryand/orIrvinereachedthesummitin1924,onlytwopossibilitiesloom.Thefirstisthatsomerelic—apieceofgear,akeepsake,oranoteunmistakablybelongingtooneofthemen—mightbefoundonornearthetop.Butthehundredsofsuccessfulsummitteersoverthelastforty-sixyearshaveneverfoundanythingofthatkind.(Lookingfortracesofpredecessorsin1953,EdmundHillarypeereddownthenorthridgeanddeclareditunclimbable.)

TheotherpossibilitytouchesonthekindofwildsurmisenormallyfoundonlyinthepagesofConanDoyle.WeknowthatMallorycarriedaKodakVestpocketcamera.Ifthecameracouldbefound,andthefilm,deep-frozensince1924,couldbedeveloped,aphotoclearlytakenfromthesummit—animageofsuchmountainsasAmaDablamorLhotse,forinstance,invisiblefromanywhereonEverest’snorthface—wouldclinchthecase.(In1897,athree-manSwedishexpeditionledbySalomonAndrée,attemptingtoballoontotheNorthPole,vanishedintheArctic.Thirty-threeyearslater,themen’sbodieswerefoundonremoteWhiteIsland.Thepicturesinthemen’scamera,perfectlypreserved,deliveredavividtestamenttothetrio’slastdaysandtothemishapsthatdoomedthem.)

Duringthelastfewyears,ayoungGermangraduatestudentingeologyhastakenupthequestwhereTomHolzelleftoff.JochenHemmleb,twenty-seven,isaclimberofmodestabilities,butaresearcherwhoseobsessionwithdetailputsevenHolzel’sintheshade.Aself-professeddiscipleoftheEnglishwriterAudreySalkeld(whoistheworld’sleadingauthorityonMallory),Hemmlebbecamefascinatedwiththe1924saga.Fromasingle,mediocrephotopublishedinaquirkybookcelebratingthe1975Chineseexpedition,Hemmlebfiguredoutthatthatyear’sCampVIhadbeenpitchedinanentirelydifferentplacefromnearlyallotherexpeditions’CampVI.Studyingbackgrounddetails,Hemmlebthoughthecouldextrapolatethelikelylocationofthefugitivecamp.Asearch,then,forthebodyWangHongbaohadfoundoughttofocusonallterrainwithinaplausibletwenty-minutestrollofthatcamp.

In1998,HemmlebgotintouchwithMountRainierguideEricSimonson,whohadclimbedEverestfromthenorthin1991.SooninfectedwiththeGerman’senthusiasm,Simonsonputtogetheraclimbingteamandanetworkofsponsors.MostofhisteammateswerefellowRainierguides,butatthelastmoment,hesnaggedagenuinestarinConradAnker,whoserecordofcutting-edgefirstascentsonremotemountainsrangingfromPatagoniatotheKarakoramcanbematchedbyonlytwoorthreeotherAmericans.TheBBCandNOVAagreedtoco-produceafilmabouttheexpedition,andaSeattle-basedWebsite,MountainZone,signedontocovertheteamviadailyInternetdispatchesfromBaseCamp.

Mostobservers,however,viewedtheexpeditionassomethingofaboondoggle—onemorestratagem,likecampaignstoraisemoneyformedicalresearchortocleanupotherexpeditions’trash,tofinanceanexpensiveoutingontheworld’shighestmountain.EvenifSimonsonandHemmleb’smotivesweresincere,afteralltheexpeditionsthathadcrisscrossedthenorthernslopesofEverestovertheyears,thechancesoffindingsomethingnewfromthe1924expeditionseemedinfinitesimal.

Ankerhimself,inthemiddleofamonth-longjauntamongunclimbedtowersinAntarcticain1997,hadvocallyderidedtheEverestcircusesofrecentyears.InMarch1999,ontheeveofhisdepartureforNepal,oneofAnker’sfriendsinvitedhimtodinner.

“Whatareyouupto,Conrad?”thefriendaskedovercoffee.

“I’moffforTibet.Alittlehigh-altitudetrekking.”

“Kailas?”Thefriendnamedthefamousholymountain,objectofBuddhistandHindupilgrimages.

“No,alittlehigher,”saidAnkersheepishly.“I’mgoingtoEverest.”

CA

OURFIRSTPRIORITYwastolookfortracesofMalloryandIrvine.Mostoftheguyswantedtogotothesummit,butEricSimonson—“Simo,”aswecallhim—emphasizedthatthesearchwastheprimaryreasonwehadcometoEverest.

Itwasn’tuntilApril30thatwehadcampsinplaceandropesfixedandwerereadytoconductthesearch.Fixingropesentailssecuringsmall-diametercordsmostofthewayuptheroute;theseropes,leftinplacethroughouttheexpedition,serveassafetylinesandmakebothascentanddescentquickerandeasier.

Onethingthatgaveusalotofhopewasthatthesnowfallthepreviouswinterhadbeenextraordinarilylight.EvenpeeringoutthewindowsofourjetasweflewintoKathmandu,wecouldseethatthemountainwasasbareasitevergets.WhenwereachedBaseCamp,Simo,who’dbeenonsixpreviousEverestexpeditions,couldn’tbelievetheconditions—themountainwasthedriestithadbeeninlivingmemory.AndallthroughApril,wegotreallygoodweather.Ifeveraseasonwasidealforasearch,itwasinthespringof1999.

At5:15onthemorningofMay1,justasitwasgettinglight,thefiveofus—AndyPolitz,TapRichards,JakeNorton,DaveHahn,andI—headedoutfromCampV,at25,600feet.Therewasaprettystiffwind,andmostofthegoingintheearlyhourswasintheshade,soitwasquitecold.WefollowedtheregularrouteuptoCampVI,at27,000feet,gettingthereabout10:30.

I’ddecidednottouseoxygen.Iwantedtoknowhowmybodywouldperformatthataltitude.Dave,whomI’dclimbedwithinAntarctica,wasalittleupsetwithme.HethoughtI’dbemoreefficientifIwassuckinggas.Butasitwas,IgottoCampVIbeforehedid.Sohesaid,“Well,Iguessyoudon’tneedthatstuff.”

DaveandAndyhadbothclimbedEverestbeforefromthenorth.Andyhadbeenonthemountainfourprevioustimes.ButI’dneverbeenthishighbefore.ThehighestI’deverbeenwas24,000feet,onanunsuccessfulexpeditiontoAnnapurnaIV.ThehighestsummitI’dreachedwasLatokII,intheKarakoram,about23,300feet.

FromCampVI,westartedtraversingtotheright,orwest,towardthesearchzonethatJochenHemmlebhadidentified.Hehadmadeacircleonthemapthatcoveredallthegroundhethoughtwaswithinalikelytwenty-minutewalkofwherehethoughttheChineseCampVIhadbeenin1975.Simoestimatedthesizeofthatareaasequaltotwelvefootballfields.Therewasnowaythefiveofuscouldcompletelycoverthatgroundinoneday.Iactuallythoughtofwhatwewereundertakingasakindofreconnaissance.Asweheadedoutthere,Ithought,It’sjustgoodthatwe’reheretolook.Noonehaseversearchedthishighbefore.

Jochenhadgivenuswhathecalledthe“researchmanual”—itwasaneight-page,spiral-bound,laminatednotebooktellingushow,why,andwheretosearch.Initiallywehadallthesegrandideasabouthowwe’dcovertheground.We’dhiketoahighpoint,spreadtwentyyardsapart,andheaddownhill.Butwhenyougetto27,000feet,you’reinadifferentworld.Yourmindneedsoxygentowork,andthereisn’tmuchoxygenupthere.

PrettyearlyJakefoundanoxygenbottlewithbluepaintononeend.HegotontheradiotoJochenatBaseCampanddescribedthecylinder,andJochenwasabletoverifythatitwasaChinese’75bottle.Soweknewwewereintherightvicinity.

MeanwhileI’dstartedtodriftoutofearshotoftheothers,lowerandfartherright.JochenhadlocatedtheChineseCampVIhigherthanIthoughtitwaslikelytohavebeen.Iwasusingmymountaineer’sintuition,nottheresearchmanual.Ithought,NowwherewouldIpitchacamponthispartofthemountain?Iwascomingatitfresh—Ihadn’toveranalyzed,projectingpreconceived“facts”ontoreality.

Also,Iwasskepticalaboutthe“twenty-minutestroll.”Yoursenseoftimeataltitudegoeshaywire.Youcansay,“Okay,I’llseeyouinforty-fiveminutes,”butupthereyoudon’tevenrealizehowtimeslipsaway.Andtherewasanotherquestion—justhowstrongwasWangHongbao?SomeofhisTibetanteammatescouldreallycruiseat27,000feet.WhoknowshowfarWangmighthavegoneintwentyminutes?

Iwalkeddownandright,overalittlecrestofanill-definedrib.Then,about11:00A.M.,lookingdown,Isawthefirstbody.Hehadonapurplesuit.Iwalkedupclosertocheckhimout.Hewaslyingheaddownhill,almosthiddenonthedownhillsideofarock.Hislegswereobviouslybrokenordislocated.Hewasprettybeatup—he’dtakenalongfall.Hisrightarmwasstuckstraightout,asthoughhewerewaving.Wewouldlaternicknamehim“theGreeter.”Withhisplasticbootsandmetalascender,hewasobviouslymodern.

Thegorakshadeatenawayhisface.Therewasjusttheskull.Itwasverymacabre.

IrealizedrightawaythattheGreeterwasn’twhowewerelookingfor;butallthesame,therewasalotofinformationthere.Oneofhisbootswasoff.Ithinkthat’scommon—whenpeoplereallyaccelerateinafall,thebootscangetwhippedoff,becauseyoudon’tlacethemtootightataltitude,forfearofcuttingoffcirculation.Anditwassignificantthathisheadwasdownhill.I’dhadseveralinformalchatswithothermountaineers,askingthemwhatthedeadbodiestheyhadfoundonmountainsallovertheworldlookedlike.Almostinvariably,theheadwasdownhill.Whythatmightbe,I’mnotsure.Perhapstheuppertorsoandheadaredenserthantherestofthebody,andifyoucarryapack,thatmakesyouevenmoretop-heavy.

AsIlookedattheGreeter,IrealizedIwasinanaturalcatchmentbasin.Iaskedmyself,Whydidhestoprighthere,onthedownhillsideofthisrock?TheridgeIwasonhadalotofrocksnagsandoutcroppings,placeswhereabodywouldnaturallycometorest.It’slikeariver,witheddiesdownstreamfromboulders.Oravalanchesinwinter,whichI’vebeenstudyingaslongasI’vebeenclimbing—howtheytakeoutcertaintreesanddon’ttakeoutcertainotherones,accordingtotheirrun-outtracksanddepositionzones.There’snowaytoanalyzealltheforcesonamountainrationally;ithastobeintuitive.Themoreexperienceyouhave,themoreyouabsorbonasubconsciouslevel.

SoIkepttraversingright,exploringthiscatchmentbasin.Inthebackofmymind,IwantedtolookintotheGreatCouloir,whichiswaybeyondJochen’ssearchzone.IwantedtoseetheroutebywhichReinholdMessnerhadmadehisastoundingsolo,oxygenlessascentofEverestin1980.Onthisstandard-settingclimb,Messnerhadtoscale,250yardsfartherwest,thesamecliffbandsthatformtheSecondStep.Howhadheunlockedthenorthface?Mycuriositydrewmewestward.

Bynowmypartnerswerestillinsight,buttheyweretiny—theywereatleast500yardsaway.About11:30,Andycameontheradio.Hesaid,“Conrad,whatareyoudoingwayoutthere?Weneedtobemoresystematic.”

Ianswered,“I’mjustlookingaround.Iwanttoseewhatthisisallabout.”EvenasAndywastalkingtome,I’dspottedanotherbody,afairdistanceaway,ahundredfeetbelow.Thisguyhadonabluesuitsofadeditlookedgray.Almostallthecolorhadgoneoutofthefabric,soIwasthinking,Hecouldbereallyold.Hecouldbeit.

SoIdown-climbedtothebody.He’dcometorestonthelastterracebeforeabigcliffband.AsIgotclose,Isawthathehadonorangeoverbootswithclip-oncrampons,soIknewhewasmoderntoo.Again,hewaslyingheaddownhill,foldedinhalf,hisarmsandlegsatunnaturalangles,asifhe’dcartwheeledalong,violentway,likearagdoll.Icouldn’tseehisface.

ThesecondbodymadeitallthemoreobviousthatIwasinacatchmentbasin.Lookinguptheslope,Icouldseehowthenaturalforcesofthemountainhadmovedthebodies.NowIstartedtraversingbackeasttowardtheotherguys,alongthetopofthiscliffband.ItwassteepenoughsothatifIfell,Iwouldn’tbeabletoself-arrest,butitwasterrainIfeltathomeon.Sortoffour-wheel-drivescrambling.

ThenIsatdowntotakeoffmycrampons,hydrate,andsuckacoughdrop.AsIstartedoffagain,withinacoupleofpacesIcaughtsightoftheshredsofblueandyellowfabric.Andthen,scanningright,thatpatchofalabaster.Thebodythatwasn’tmodern.

WEDIDN’THAVEallthatmuchtimetowork.We’dagreedonatentativeturnaroundhourof2:00P.M.,togetbacktoCampVwhileitwasstilldaylight,andbythetimewestartedexcavating,itwaspastnoon.Therewerecloudsbelowus,butonlyaslightwind.Asonecanimagine,thiswashardworkat26,700feet(thealtitudeofthebody,asIlatercalculatedit).Wehadtakenoffouroxygengear,becauseitwasjusttoocumbersometodigwithiton.

Becausethebodywasfrozenintothescree,wehadtochipawayatthesurroundingiceandrockwithouriceaxes.Ittooksomevigorousswingseventodislodgelittlechunks,theicewassodense.Wewereallexperiencedclimbers,wewereusedtoswingingtools,sowedidthechippingprettyefficiently;onlyoncedidapickglanceoffarockandimpaletheman’sarm.Aswegotclosertothebody,weputdownouraxesandstartedchippingwithourpocketknives.

WeweresosurethiswasSandyIrvinethatJakeactuallysatdown,tookasmoothpieceofshaleinhislap,andstartedtoscratchoutatombstonewithIrvine’snameanddates,1902-1924.Butthenwefoundthe“G.Mallory”tagonthecollar,andshortlyafter,Tapfoundanotheroneonaseamunderthearm.Itread,“G.LeighMallory.”Wejuststaredateachother,stunned,aswerealizedthiswasn’tIrvine.WehadfoundGeorgeMallory.

Asweexcavated,Tapchippedawayonhisleftside,Jakeonhisright.Ididmostlyliftingandprying.DaveandAndytookpicturesandshotvideo.

ItwasgoodfortunethatGeorgewaslyingonhisstomach,becausemostofthestuffyoucarrywhenyouclimbisinthefrontpockets,soithadbeenprotectedbyhisbodyforseventy-fiveyears.Itmayseemfunny,orevenpretentious,butwereferredtohimas“George,”notas“Mallory.”Allthroughtheweeksbefore,we’dtalkedaboutMalloryandIrvinesomuchthatitwasasifweknewthem,likeoldfriends;theyhadbecomeGeorgeandSandy.

WeleftGeorge’sfacewhereitwas,frozenintothescree,butonceIcouldliftthelowerpartofhisbody,TapandJakecouldreachunderneathhimandgothroughthepockets.Thebodywaslikeafrozenlog.WhenIliftedit,itmadethatsamecreakynoiseaswhenyoupullupalogthat’sbeenonthegroundforyears.

Itwasdisconcertingtolookintotheholeintherightbuttockthatthegorakshadchewed.Hisbodyhadbeenhollowedout,almostlikeapumpkin.Youcouldseetheremainsofseedsandsomeotherfood—verypossiblyMallory’slastmeal.

Wedidn’tgonearGeorge’shead.Wemovedthelooserockawayfromit,butwedidn’ttrytodigitout.Ithinkthatwasasortofunspokenagreement,andatthetime,noneofuswantedtolookathisface.

Ofcourseweweremostexcitedaboutthepossibilityoffindingthecamera.Jakeeventhoughtforaminutehe’dfoundit.Georgehadasmallbagthatwaslodgedunderhisrightbiceps.Jakereachedinthere,squeezedthebag,andfeltasmall,squareobject,justabouttherightsize.Wefinallyhadtocutthebagtogettheobjectout,andwhenwedid,wefounditwasn’tthecameraafterall,itwasatinofbeeflozenges!

TheclincherthatitwasMallorycamewhenJakepulledoutaneatlyfolded,new-lookingsilkhandkerchiefinwhichseverallettershadbeencarefullywrapped.TheywereaddressedtoMallory.Ontheenvelopeofoneofthem,forinstance,weread,“GeorgeLeighMalloryEsq.,c/oBritishTradeAgent,YalungTibet.”

Besidestheletters,wefoundafewpencilednotesinotherpockets.Aswefoundoutlater,theywereallaboutlogistics,aboutbringingsomanyloadstoCampVI,andsoon.Wereadthemcarefully,hopingMallorymighthavejotteddownanoteaboutreachingthesummitorturningback,buttherewasnothingofthesort.

Onebyone,JakeandTapproducedwhatwestartedcalling“theartifacts.”ItseemedanoddcollectionofitemstocarrytothesummitofEverest.Therewasasmallpenknife;atinypencil,abouttwoandahalfincheslong,ontowhichsomekindofmintcakehadcongealed(wecouldstillsmellthemint);aneedleandthread;asmallpairofscissorswithafilebuiltintooneblade;asecondhandkerchief,wellused(theoneheblewhisnoseon),woveninaredandyellowfloralpatternonabluebackground,withthemonogramG.L.M.inyellow;aboxofspecialmatches,SwanVestas,withextraphosphorusonthetips;alittlepieceofleatherwithahoseclamponitthatmighthavebeenamouthpiecefortheoxygenapparatus;atubeofzincoxide,rolledpartwayup;asparepairoffingerlessmittensthatlookedliketheyhadn’tbeenused.

Twootherartifactsseemedparticularlyintriguing.Jakefoundasmashedaltimeterinonepocket.Thehandwasmissingfromthedial,butyoucouldseethattheinstrumenthadbeenspeciallycalibratedforEverest,witharangefrom20,000feetto30,000feet.Inscribedontheback,infinescript,was“M.E.E.II”—forMountEverestExpeditionII.Andinthevestpocket,wefoundapairofgoggles.Theframeswerebent,butthegreenglasswasunbroken.ItwasAndywhocameupwiththepossiblesignificanceofthegogglesbeinginthepocket.Tohim,itarguedthatGeorgehadfallenafterdusk.Ifithadbeeninthedaytime,hewouldhavebeenwearingthegoggles,evenonrock.He’djusthadavividlessonintheconsequencesoftakingthemoffduringtheday,whenTeddyNortongotaterribleattackofsnowblindnessthenightafterhissummitpushonJune4.

Asweremovedeachartifact,weputitcarefullyinaZiplocbag.AndyvolunteeredtocarrytheobjectsdowntoCampV.Tosomepeople,itmayseemthattakingGeorge’sbelongingswithuswasaviolation.Weevenhadacertainsensethatweweredisturbingthedead—Ithinkthat’swhywehadhesitatedtobegintheexcavation.Butthiswastheexplicitpurposeoftheexpedition:tofindMalloryandIrvineandtoretrievetheartifactsandtrytosolvethemysteryofwhathadhappenedonJune8,1924.Ithinkwedidtherightthing.

Asinterestingaswhatwefoundwaswhatwedidn’tfind.Georgehadnobackpackon,noranytraceoftheframethatheldthetwinoxygenbottles.Hisonlycarryingsackwasthelittlebagwefoundunderhisrightbiceps.Hedidn’thaveanywaterbottle,orThermosflask,whichwaswhattheyusedin’24.Hedidn’thaveaflashlight,becausehe’dforgottentotakeitwithhim.WeknowthisnotfromOdell,butfromthe1933party,whofoundtheflashlightinthetentatthe1924CampVI.

Andwedidn’tfindthecamera.Thatwasthegreatdisappointment.

Itwasgettinglate—we’dalreadywelloverstayedour2:00P.M.turnaround.ThelastthingwegatheredwasaDNAsample,toanalyzeforabsoluteproofoftheidentityofthemanwe’dfound.SimonsonhadreceivedapprovalforthisprocedurebeforehandfromJohnMallory,George’sonlyson,who’sseventy-nineandlivinginSouthAfrica.Ihadagreedtodothisjob.

Icutaninch-and-a-half-squarepatchofskinofftherightforearm.Itwasn’teasy.IhadtousetheserratedbladeonDave’sutilityknife.CuttingGeorge’sskinwaslikecuttingsaddleleather,curedandhard.

Sincetheexpedition,I’veoftenwonderedwhethertakingthetissuewasasacrilegiousact.InBaseCamp,Ihadvolunteeredforthetask.Onthemountain,Ihadnotimetoreflectwhetherornotthiswastherightthingtodo.

WewantedtoburyGeorge,oratleasttocoverhimup.Therewererockslyingaround,butnotalotthatweren’tfrozeninplace.Weformedakindofbucketbrigade,passingrocksdowntothesite.

ThenAndyread,asaprayerofcommittal,Psalm103:“Asforman,hisdaysareasgrass:asaflowerofthefield,soheflourisheth./Forthewindpassethoverit,anditisgone…”

Wefinallyleftat4:00P.M.Ilingeredabitaftertheotherfour.ThelastthingIdidwastoleaveasmallButterfingercandybarintherocksnearby,likeaBuddhistoffering.Isaidasortofprayerforhim,severaltimesover.

TheotherguystraversedbacktoCampVItorejointhenormalroutedowntoV,butIsawthatIcouldtakeashortcutandgostraighttoV.Igotthereat5:00P.M.,theothersforty-fiveminutestoanhourlater.

DaveandAndywereinonetent,Tap,Jake,andIintheother.DavesaidlaterthatitwasonlybackinCampVthatwhatwe’ddonereallybegantosinkin,thathisemotionsspilledout,thathewasfilledwithsatisfactionandamazement.

Wehadsomefoodandtriedtosleep.Iwasprettytired—ithadbeenatwelve-hourday.Isleptsoundlyforacoupleofhours,thenIwokeup.Iwasonthedownhillsideofthetent,gettingforcedoutofthegoodspot.Thewindkeptblowing.Therestofthenight,Icouldn’tsleep.Justkepttossingandturning.Itwasmiserable.

Inmysleeplessness,Ikeptreviewingtheday.Despitethebrokenlegandthegorakdamage,atGeorge’ssideIhadexperiencedapowerfulfeelingthathewasatpeacewithhimself.AsIhadsatnexttohim,Ithought,Thismanwasafellowclimber.Wesharedthesamegoalsandaspirations,thesamejoysandsorrows.Ourlivesweremotivatedbythesameelementalforce.WhenIthoughtofwhatavalianteffortGeorgehadmade,toclimbthishighonthenorthsideofEverestin1924,giventheequipmentandclothingofhisday,Iwasfloodedwithasenseofawe.

Andalready,mymindwasturningovertheimplicationsofwhatwehadfound.ItseemedunlikelythatitwasMallorywhosebodyWangHongbaohaddiscoveredin1975.Hisdescription—ofamanlyingonhisside,withonecheekpeckedoutbygoraks—wastoodifferentfromwhatwehadseen.SoifWanghadfoundIrvine,wherewashe?Didthebrokenropemeanthatthetwomenhadfallentogether?Inthatcase,wasIrvine’sbodynearby?AndwhatwerethechancesthatthecameralaywithIrvine?AlreadyIwasanticipatingoursecondsearch.

Iknewwe’dmadeamajorfind,butthefullimpactofitdidn’thitmeuntilwewentondownthemountain.Despiteourradiosilenceandourcrypticcodedmessagestoeachother,bythetimewereachedBaseCamptwodayslater,thewholeworldwasbuzzingwiththenewsthatwe’ddiscoveredGeorgeMallory.

2MonDieu!—GeorgeMallory!

DR

ITMIGHTBEARGUEDthatindisappearingintothecloudsthatJunedayseventy-fiveyearsago,MalloryandIrvineperformedthemostperfectvanishingactinexploringhistory.Thequestionofwhatwentwrongtocausetheirdeathsis,inthelongrun,secondary.Eveninthe1990s,itisalltooeasytofalloffthoseloose,downward-slopingslabs—likerooftiles,inthewordsofTeddyNorton—onthenorthfaceofEverest,andjustaseasytofreezetodeathinanunplannedbivouacononeofitshigh,storm-sweptledges.Norisitparticularlysurprisingthatthetwomen’sbodiesshouldhavebeenlostforsomanyyears.Overthedecades,anynumberofstellarmountaineershavedisappearedonEverest—amongthemtheBritishclimbersMickBurke,PeteBoardman,andJoeTasker,aswellasfourstalwartCzechsin1988who,havingmadeadaring,fastascentofthesouthwestface,wereneverseenorheardfromagainaftermakinganexhaustedlastradiocall.DespitealltheclimberswhoyearlyswarmontoEverest,themountainishugeenoughtohidemanysecrets,andtheglaciersthatcarryawayeverythingthatfallsfromitsslopeshavesealedmanyahaplessmountaineerinanicytomb.

TheconundrumthatelevatesMalloryandIrvine’svanishingtotherealmofthemythicisthepossibilitythatthepaircouldhavereachedthesummitbeforetheydied.Overtheyears,pressedtopindownexactlywherehehadseenhisfriendsmovingfastalongtheridgeat12:50onJune8,NoelOdellvacillated.Askepticalmanbynature,heallowedotherskepticstoconvincehimthatinalllikelihoodhehadseenMalloryandIrvineclimbinguptherelativelyeasyFirstStep,morethan1,000feetbelowthetop.Yetinhisoriginaldiaryentry,whichpresumablynotedhisfreshfirstperception,Odellwrote,“At12:50sawM&Ionridgenearingbaseoffinalpyramid”—inotherwords,lessthan500feetbelowthesummit.

Noneofthefourteenpeaksintheworldsurpassing8,000meters(about26,240feet)wouldbeclimbedforanothertwenty-sixyears,untiltheFrenchascentofAnnapurnain1950.This,despiteadozenboldattacksonK2,Kangchenjunga,NangaParbat,andEverestinthe1930s,byteamsloadedwithtopnotchAmerican,English,andGermanmountaineers.IfMalloryandIrvinesummittedin1924,theirdeedstandsuniqueinmountaineeringhistory.

Beyondallthis,Malloryhimselfwasoneofthemosttalented,charismatic,andatthesametimeenigmaticfiguresevertocrossthestageofmountainconquest.HewasborninCheshireonJune18,1886,aparson’sson.HeattendedWinchesterpublicschool,thenwentuptoMagdaleneCollege,Cambridge.Asachild,hissisterAvierecalled,“Heclimbedeverythingthatitwasatallpossibletoclimb.Ilearntveryearlythatitwasfataltotellhimthatanytreewasimpossibleforhimtogetup.‘Impossible’wasawordthatactedasachallengetohim.”

Once,atageseven,Georgewassenttohisroomforbehavingbadlyduringteatime,onlytohavehisnonplussedfamilydiscoverhimclimbingtheroofoftheadjoiningchurch.“Ididgotomyroom,”herationalizedwiththeimpudenceofyouth—“tofetchmycap.”

ThelettersGeorgefaithfullywrotehismotherduringhisteenageyearsbrimwithboyishhighspirits,andwithacockyself-confidence,asheunabashedlynarrateshistriumphs.Forawhile,hisfavoriteepithet

was“perfectlyripping”:“TheGrandCombinis14,100feet,andofcoursetheviewfromthetopwasperfectlyripping.”

Bright,charming,andrestless,MallorywasinclinedatWinchestertowardacertainscholasticlaziness.Wroteoneofhistutors,“Mallorywasjustaveryattractive,naturalboy,notahardworkerandbehindratherthaninfrontofhiscontemporaries…inintellectualattainments.”AtWinchesterheexcelledinfootball(i.e.,soccer)andgymnastics,and“didnotliketolose.”AtCambridge,hebecamecaptainoftheMagdaleneBoatClubandrowedintheHenleyRegatta.

Butitwasnotuntiltheageofeighteen,duringthesummerbeforehislastyearatWinchester,thatMalloryfirstdidanyrealmountaineering,whenatutor,R.L.G.Irving,tookhimandanotherstudenttotheAlps.TheclimbsIrvingdraggedhisnovicesupweresurprisinglyambitious,andduringthosearduousoutingsonMonteRosaandMontBlanc,Mallorydiscoveredthepassionthatwouldcenterhislife.

Fromhisfirstyearsonward,twocharacteristicsemergedthatwouldultimatelybearonhisfateonMountEverest.Malloryhadakindofaddictiontoriskthatskepticalobserversconsideredsimplerecklessness.Hissisterrememberedhimtellingherthatintheoryaboyoughttobeabletolieontherailroadtracksandescapeunharmedasatrainranoverhim.AcharacteristicchildhoodstuntatthebeachisrecountedbyDavidRobertson,Mallory’sdefinitivebiographer:

OnedayGeorgewentoutandperchedatoparoughrock,meaningtostayuntiltheincomingtidehadsurroundedit;hefeltquiteconfidentthatthetidewouldturnbeforethewavestouchedhisfeet.OnhearingwhatGeorgewasupto,thefamilyhastenedtotheshore;theycouldseehimveryeasily,cladinthebrightblazerofhisfirstpreparatoryschool.Thehighspringtidehadalreadycuthimoffandwouldsooncovertherock.GrandmotherJebbbeggedsomeonetobringtheboyin,andwithconsiderabledifficultyayoungbystanderdidso.Georgehimselfremainedquiteconfidentandcalm.

Obviously,suchapenchantforself-testingwasusefulindevelopingthedaringapprenticeclimberGeorgebecameateighteen.Someyearslater,afterMalloryhadledaveryexperiencedAustrianmountaineerupadifficultrouteinWales,thevisitormarveledatMallory’s“masteryofthehardestpitches,”butinveighed,“Thatyoungmanwillnotbealiveforlong.”

Theothercharacteristicwasacongenitalabsentmindedness.ThereisafamousrouteonLliwedd,thegreatpeakinWales,ofwhichlegendhasitMallorymadethefirstascent,soloatdusk,torecoverapipehehadleftonahighledgethathehadreachedearlierinthedaybyamoreconventionalbutlessdirectitinerary.Evenin1922,onEverest,theexpeditionleader,GeneralCharlesBruce,inaconfidentialsummary,describedMalloryas“agreatdearbutforgetshisbootsonalloccasions.”AccordingtomountainhistorianAudreySalkeld,“Forgettingtotieon[totheclimbingrope]wasacleardemonstrationofMallory’schronicabsent-mindedness,afaulthenevermanagedtoovercome.”Ontopofhisforgetfulness,Malloryhadamechanicalineptitudesoextremehehadtroublemakinghiscampstovework.

Fromadolescenceon,Mallorywaspossessedofanextraordinarybeauty.Irving,hisfirstmountainmentor,rememberedhimateighteenas“extremelygood-looking,withagentlenessaboutthefeatures,andasmoothnessofskinthatmightsuggesteffeminacytoastranger;itneverdidtoafriend.”ThephotoscaptureMallory’shandsomeness,butnophotocouldconveythecharmandmagnetismthatmadebothmenandwomenfallinlovewithhim,oftenatfirstsight.

Inadulthood,Mallorystoodfivefeetelevenandweighed159pounds.His“strikinglybeautiful”facewaslikenedbyIrvingtothatof“aBotticelliMadonna.”AtCambridge,histutor,ArthurBenson,twenty-five

yearsMallory’selder,washopelesslysmittenwiththestudent.Inadiarypublishedposthumously,BensonrecordedhisfeelingsafterawalkwithMallory:“WhyshouldIpretendthatIdonotlovethisyoungfriend,andtakedeeppleasureinhiscompany[?]”Earlier,hehadwritten,“Itisapleasuretometoseehimmove,ordoanything.”

AtCambridge,Malloryenteredhissocialelement.Oneofhisfirstclimbingcompanions,CottieSanders—betterknownbyhernovelistnomdeplume,AnnBridge—testifiedtotheintensityoffriendshipthatMalloryandsomeofhisclassmatespracticed:

Theyheldpersonalrelationshipsassoimportantthattheyheldonlyafewotherthingsasbeingofanyimportancewhatever….Theyenjoyedeachotherfuriously;delightedly,theyexaminedandexploredeverymeansofknowingpeoplebetterandlikingthemmore….Theybroughttheirwholeintellectualenergytobearontheirrelationships;theywantedtoknownotonlythattheylovedpeoplebuthowandwhytheylovedthem.

TheclimateofCambridge(andofOxford)inthefirstdecadeofourcenturywasafarcryfromwhatwethinkofasstuffyandVictorian.Thewholeuniversitywassuffusedinanatmosphereofidealizedloveamongmen—evenbetweenmentwoorthreedecadesapartinage—thatowedmuchtoPlato’sSymposium.Therewasafreedomwithinthisidealthatfewuniversitiesinthe1990swouldtolerate.ArthurBensoncouldgoforalongwalkandpicnicwithhisstudent,evenbathinginthenude,withoutraisinganadministrativeeyebrow.

Tocallthisclimatehomosexualistooversimplifyit.MuchofMallory’scharismaderivedfromthefactthatheboretheadulationandplatonicloveofhisadmirerswithakindofunaffectedinnocence.AsBensonwroteafterMallory’sdeath:

Thiswas,Ithink,theessenceofhiswonderfulcharm,thathewassounconsciousofhisgreatpersonalbeauty,hisgifts,andhisachievements,whilehissympathywiththosewithwhomhecameincontact,theirtastes,theirpreferences,theiropinions,wasdeepandgenuine.

AtCambridge,thoughmountaineeringwashisabidingpassion,Mallorythrewhimselfintotheater,music,andpainting(hebecameaferventpartisanofthePostimpressionists);heeventook,accordingtohisfirstbiographer,DavidPye,whowasaschoolmate,“todressingratherpeculiarlyinblackflannelshirtsandcolouredties;andgrewhishairlong.”

PyewasalsostruckbyMallory’scontentiousness:“Amostpersistentandevenderisivearguer,hewasapttoexpresshimselfdisdainfullyandcontemptuously,andtoshifthisground,butmorebecausehehadnotgottheissueclearinhismindthanfrommentalagility.”

Mallory’simpatience,whichwouldbecomefamous,wenthandinhandwithhisapparentrecklessnessandhisverve.AccordingtoPye,“Inconversationhewasnotalwayseasytofollow;hetalkedsorapidly,andsomanywordsgottheirwingsclippedintheprocess,astomakehimattimesalmostunintelligible.”

AtCambridge,andlaterinmanyaWelshlake,Malloryindulgedinapassionfornudebathing.Onehotevening,outrowingwithschoolmatesontheCam,hestrippeddownanddivedin.Whenherefusedtoreturntotheboat,hisfriends,fearfulofmissingthe10:00P.M.curfew,rowedoffandlefthim.Starknaked,MalloryslunkbacktoMagdaleneCollege,hopingtoclimbinanopenwindow,onlytobeapprehendedbyadubiouspoliceman.

ThroughfellowstudentsJamesStracheyandGeoffreyKeynes,MallorydriftedwithintheorbitofthatbrilliantcollectionofeccentricbohemianartistsandwritersknownasBloomsbury.Onfirstbeholding

this“Greekgod,”themoreunabashedfloutersofconventionwithinthatcirclecouldhardlycontaintheirrapture.WroteLyttonStrachey(James’solderbrother),themordantbiographerofQueenVictoriaandothereminentVictorians,toCliveandVanessaBell,afterhisfirstmeetingwithMallory:

Mondieu!—GeorgeMallory!—Whenthat’sbeenwritten,whatmoreneedbesaid?Myhandtrembles,myheartpalpitates,mywholebeingswoonsatthewords—ohheavens!heavens!…[H]e’ssixfoothigh,withthebodyofanathletebyPraxiteles,andaface—ohincredible—themysteryofBotticelli,therefinementanddelicacyofaChineseprint,theyouthandpiquancyofanunimaginableEnglishboy.

Stracheyravedon,inthismanner,aboutspending“hourseverydaylostinatranceofadoration,innocence,andbliss”aftermeetingMallory;stunnedbythevisionofsuchyouthfulbeauty,hecould,heclaimed,“curlupwithinitsshadow,andsleep.”Perhapstomitigatehiscrush,headded,“Fortherest,he’sgoingtobeaschoolmaster,andhisintelligenceisnotremarkable.What’stheneed?”

Strachey’sfriendtheopenlyhomosexualpainterDuncanGrantseveraltimespersuadedMallorytoposeforhiminthenude,andGrantlatertoldStracheythathewouldhavepaidtheyoungman£100ayeartohavehimashis“mistress.”GrantandStracheyregularlycomparednotesabouttheiryoungidol.Stracheyinsistedthat“I’mnotinlovewithhim,”yetinthenextbreathgushed,

But,ohheavens!hisbody!—thesupremebeautyofthefacehasI’mafraidgone—thatwonderfulbloom—butit’sstillintenselyattractive,withtheeyes,andthecolour,andthecharmingexpression,andthestrangedivineears,solargeandlascivious—oh!!

JustashesneeredatMallory’sinterestinschoolteaching,thebookish,ungainlyStracheyhadnouseforwhathecalled“imbecilemountains.”AfteranuncharacteristicjauntamongtheBlackCuillinsontheIsleofSkye—primetraininggroundforseveralgenerationsofBritishclimbers—Stracheydismissedthemountainsinawitheringphrasedeliveredemphaticallytoaclimbingfriend:“Ithinkthem…simply…absurd.”

ThereislittleevidencethatMallorywasbisexual;lateinlife,DuncanGrantansweredEveresthistorianWaltUnsworth’sbluntinquiryaboutthematter,“No,certainlyhewasnot.”YetJamesStrachey,Mallory’sCambridgeclassmate,testifiedintheaffirmative.Inanycase,MallorywassocomfortableintheCambridge-Bloomsburymilieuofplatonizedloveandthecultofbeautythat,yearslater,fromthefrontinWorldWarI,withoutahintofembarrassment,hecouldwritehiswife,Ruth:“Ihadquiteathrillinthetrenchesyesterdayonseeingareallybeautifulface….Hehadbeautifulvisionaryeyeswhichlookedatmethoughtfullybeforeheansweredmyremarks.”

DuringseasonsinWalesandsummersintheAlps,Malloryperfectedhismountaincraft.Inhisprime,histechniqueseemstohavebeenasstrikingashisbeauty,forcolleagueaftercolleaguemarveledatit.AnnBridgeremembered:

Hewasneverashowyclimber;hedidnotgoinfortheminuteprecisionsofstyleatall.Onthecontrary,heseemedtomoveonrockswithasortoflarge,casualeasewhichwasverydeceptivewhenonecametotryandfollowhim.Whenhewasconfrontedwithapitchwhichtaxedhispowers,hewouldflinghimselfatitwithasortofangryenergy,appearingtoworryitasaterrierworriesarat,tillhehadmasteredit.

Fear,addedBridge,was“somethinghehadnoexperienceofwhatever.”

GeoffreyWinthropYoung,thefinestBritishclimberofthegenerationbeforeMallory’s,whowouldbecomethetruementorofhislife,wrote,“Heswunguprockwithalongthigh,aliftedknee,andarippleofirresistiblemovement.”RobertGraves,latertobecomethegreatnovelist,poet,andscholar,wastakenclimbingbyMalloryasaschoolboy.InGood-byetoAllThat,Gravesrecalledthathistutor“usedtogodrunkwithexcitementattheendofhisclimbs.”Afellowtuteetestified,“Hewasquitethefinestrock-climberIhaveeverseen,withawonderfulsenseofbalance.”

OnforaysintheAlps,MalloryseemedcompletelyathomeonmountainsthathadseverelyintimidatedmanyaBritishcragsman.HarryTyndalecapturedMallory’saplombleadingasteepicepitch:

Hecutasuperbstaircase,withinimitableeaseandgraceandaperfecteconomyofeffort.InwatchingGeorgeatworkonewasconsciousnotsomuchofphysicalstrengthasofsupplenessandbalance;sorhythmicalandharmoniouswashisprogressinanysteepplace,aboveallonslabs,thathismovementsappearedalmostserpentineintheirsmoothness.

“Grace”and“balance”—thosewerethewordsrepeatedoverandoverbyMallory’scompanionstoconjureuphisalpineskills.“Hismovementinclimbingwasentirelyhisown,”wroteGeoffreyWinthropYoung—himselfwellknownforgraceandbalance.

Itcontradictedalltheory.Hewouldsethisfoothighagainstanyangleofsmoothsurface,foldhisshouldertohisknee,andflowupwardanduprightagainonanimpetuouscurve….[T]helook,andindeedtheresult,werealwaysthesame—acontinuousundulatingmovementsorapidandsopowerfulthatonefelttherockeithermustyield,ordisintegrate.

Mallory,Youngadded,“couldmakenomovementthatwasnotinitselfbeautiful.Inevitablyhewasamountaineer,sinceclimbingisthesupremeopportunityforperfectmotion.”

ClimbingwithYoungalongtheuntroddensoutheastridgeoftheNesthornintheAlpsin1909,Mallorysufferedtheoneseriousfallofhisalpineapprenticeship.Lateintheafternoon,themenstoodatthebaseofaverticalpillar,thelastobstaclebelowthesummit.Mallorytooktheleadandtraversedoutofsightaroundthecorner.Forhisbelay,Youngsimplystoodontheridgeandlaidtheropeacrossasmall“nick”inthecornerofaslab.Unabletosolvethepillar,Malloryappearedinsight,traversingbacktowardhispartner,then,atthelastminute,headedstraightuptowardanoverhangingbulge,usinghisaxe,aswasthepracticeoftheday,tohooksmallholds.

Youngwatchedapprehensively,ashelaterwroteinOnHighHills,asMallory

foughthiswayupmagnificently,untilallthatremainedbelowtherockcornice,whichcutoffeverythingelseabovefrommysight,washistwoboots.Theywereclinging,cat-like,andcontinuedtoclingforlongseconds,toalmostimperceptibleirregularitiesonthewallsoftherift.Themeresightofthemmademebreathless;andItightenedeverymuscle,readytospringtheropeonitsnick.

Losingstrength,Mallorylaunchedadesperate“gymnasticbackwardswing”ashetriedtotoptheoverhang.“Isawthebootsflashfromthewallwithoutevenascrape,”rememberedYoung;“and,equallysoundlessly,agreystreakflickereddownward,andpastme,andoutofsight.”

Malloryfellfortyfeetfree,touchingnothing,beforetheshockcameontherope.Youngheldontightasthecordgroundhishandsintotheslab.Inthedaysbeforestretchy,strongnylonropes,suchfallsusuallycausedtheclimbers’lifelinetobreak.Younganticipatedasmuch.Ashelaterputit,

WewereusingthatyearathenratherpopularAustrianwovenrope,sinceentirelycondemned.Whenever,inlateryears,Ihavelookedbackatthetabulatedrope-tests,whichshowthatthisropeiswarrantedtosnaplikeastrawunderthejerkofaman’sweightfallingfrom,Ithink,fivefeet,IhavethoughtagainofthetransfiguredsecondinwhichIrealizedthattheropehad,miraculously,held.

Mallorywasunhurt,andsounfazedbythefallthathehadn’tevendroppedhisiceaxe.Nowhehookedhiswayupsteepslabsbacktohisbelayer.ThetwomencontinueduptheNesthorn,solvingthepillarbyanotherroute,andMalloryledtothesummitinthelastlightoftheday.“Heappeared,throughtheshadows,”wroteYoung,“tofloatlikeathistledownupthelastabruptsteps:upandup,throughalwaysdensercoldandcloserdarkness.”

Whetherindeed,asAnnBridgeinsisted,Malloryhadnoexperienceoffear,herelatedtheattackonthepreviouslyunclimbedridgeoftheNesthorninalettertohismotherasthoughitweremerelyanotherjollyoutingintheAlps,ratherthanadesperateascentthatcouldwellhaveprovedfatal:

Wewereouttwenty-onehours,andwerealtogetherratherpleasedwithourselves,aswestartedinbadweatherwhichafterwardsclearedupbeautifully.ThesunsetfromtheNesthornwasthemostwonderfulIhaveeverseen.

Fromsuchepisodes,onemightconcludethatMallorywasadaredevil,supremelyconvincedofhisowninvulnerability,harboringperhapsaself-destructivedemon.YetDavidPye,Mallory’sclimbingcompanionaswellashisfirstbiographer,insiststhathisfriendwas“verycarefulofunskilledperformers,andverydownonanyclumsinessorcarelessness.”Reflectingonaclimbingaccidentthatbefellapartytacklingaroutebeyondtheirpowers,hesaid—“intonesofangrygrief”—“Theyhadnobusinesstobethere!”

AmonthaftertheNesthornaccident,Mallorysufferedamoretrivialfallthatwastohavefarmoreimportantconsequences.Hewasoutwalkingwithhissistersandfriendsnearhisparents’homeinBirkenhead,whenhecametoasmallsandstonecliffinadisusedquarry.AsbiographerDavidRobertsonputsit,“Therewasnoneedwhatevertoclimbit,butGeorgenaturallymadeforitandstartedup.”

Nearthetopoftheshortpitchhewassoloing,Malloryranintoatroublesomesequence.Oneofthefriendsscrambledaroundtothetopandloweredarope,whichGeorgetriedtograbjustasheslipped,onlytohaveitslidethroughhishands.Withhisfelineagility,Mallorytriedtospringoutwardandbackwardandlandonhisfeetinthegrass,buthecamedownhardwithhisrightfootonahiddenstone.

Malloryassumedhehadsprainedtheankle,butformonthsitrefusedtoheal.WritingYounginDecember,hereported,“IndeeditisstillinapoorstateandthoughIcanwalkwellenoughforashortdistance,itisnogoodforthemountains.”Malloryblamedonlyhimself:“Thewholeaffairisalmosttoodisgustingtothinkof,theresultchieflyofmyobstinacy.”

Itwasonlyeightyearslater,whentheanklecausedhimsomuchtroubleontheWesternFrontduringtheGreatWarthathehadtobeinvalidedhome,thatMallorylearnedhehadbrokentheankleinthe1909fall;ithadneverproperlyhealed.Heunderwentanoperationthatseemedtofixtheproblem,butsevenyearslater,onhislastexpeditiontoEverest,hewasstillplaguedbytheinjury.FromDarjeelinginMay1924,fullofoptimismabouttheteam’schances,hewroteRuth:“TheonlydoubtsIhavearewhethertheoldankleonewayoranotherwillcausemetrouble.”

AfterCambridge,Malloryhopedtobecomeawriter,andmanagedtopublishacriticalworkcalledBoswelltheBiographer,unreadtoday.Inhisarticlesfortheclimbingjournals,hewentfarbeyondthedryrecitationsofpassesgainedandridgestraversedthatwerethenormoftheday,strivingforalyrical

flighttomatchtheexaltationhefeltinthemountains.Inanambitious1914essayhetitled“TheMountaineerasArtist,”MalloryspunoutanelaborateconceitcomparingadayintheAlpswithasymphony.Here,asintheoverearnestpagesofmanyanotheryoungmountaineer-writer,anoteofpreciousnesscouldcreepin:

Andsothroughoutthedaysuccessivemoodsinducethesymphonicwhole—allegrowhileyoubreakthebackofanexpeditionandtheissueisstillindoubt;scherzo,perhaps,asyouleapupthefinalrocksofthearêteorcutstepsinalastshortslope,withtheice-chipsdancingandswimmingandbubblingandboundingwithmagicgaietyoverthecrispsurfaceintheirmadglissade.

Yetashematured,thelooselyricismofMallory’sproseacquiredacertainbackbone,ashelearnedthathereallyhadsomethingtosay.Hehadatruegiftfortheaphoristicformula;hadhelivedlonger,Mallorymighthavebecome,asdidGeoffreyWinthropYoung,oneofthecentury’sfinestwritersaboutmountaineering.HismostfamouspassageappearsinanaccountofadifficultrouteonMontBlanc,publishedin1918intheAlpineJournal:“Havewevanquishedanenemy?Nonebutourselves.Havewegainedsuccess?Thatwordmeansnothinghere.”

ThereisperhapsaruefulironyinthefactthatthesinglephraseforwhichMallorywillforeverberememberedwasaspontaneousretort,inthemidstofatiringAmericanlecturetour,toajournalistwhoaskedhimwhyhewantedtoclimbEverest.“Becauseitisthere,”snappedMallory,passingontoposterityanapothegmaspithyasanyConfucianriddle.SomeofMallory’sclosestfriendsinsistedthattheresponsewasmeantasanoff-puttingnonsequitur,fromamanwearyinhisbonesofbeingaskedthesameunanswerablequestionmountaineershavealwaysbeenscoldedwith.

Inthechaptershecontributedtotheofficial1921and1922Everestbooks,Mallorywritesvividlyandwell;butsodomostofhisteammates,sohighwerethestandardsofEnglisheducationoftheday.NoelOdell’sandTeddyNorton’schaptersinthe1924bookaretheequalofMallory’s.

In1910,atagetwenty-four,toekeoutaliving,MallorytookateachingjobatapublicschoolcalledCharterhouse.Hepouredhimselfintothejob,onholidaytakingstudentsclimbinginWalesandtheAlps,justasR.L.G.Irvinghadtakenhim.Some,suchasRobertGraves,remainedindebtedtohimtherestoftheirdays.ButMallorywastoodisorganizedtobeareallyeffectiveteacher,toocreativetobehappyinhisdrudgerousandsedentarypost.AsGravesputit,“GeorgewaswastedatCharterhouse.”

Evenso,hemusthavebeenastimulatingteacher.DavidPyerelatesastrayremarkthathintsattheimpishlysubversiveroleMalloryplayedwithhisCharterhousecharges:“Imaginemeto-morrowmorningteachingthesmallestboysaboutthefallofman!whatthedevilisonetosay?ItwassuchawhollyadmirablebusinessandGodbehavedsobadly;merepettyjealousy!”

Politically,Mallorywasaliberalonthefarleft,despitebeingaparson’sson.HeconsideredhimselfaFabian,andchampionedsuchcausesaswomen’ssuffrageandIrishhomerule,travelingtothecountryin1920towitnessforhimselfthebarbarityoftheEnglishsuppression.OnenightinDublin,hewascross-examinedintheglareofaflashlightbyanofficialwitharevolverinhishand,whoapparentlysuspectedhimofbeingarabidSinnFeiner.

Startinginthespringof1916,MalloryservedontheFrenchfrontduringWorldWarI,wherehesufferedhisshareofclosecalls—awhizzingbulletthatpassedbetweenhimandanearbysoldier,twofriendsblownapartbyashellastheyranafewpacesbehindhim.Atfirst,inlettershome,hekeptupthejauntypretensethatwarwaslikesomeschoolboysport:“Personally,Igetsomefunoutofthissortofperformance.”“Iplayedthegame,onmywaytotheO.P.,ofshell-dodgingforthefirsttime.Quitean

amusinggame.”

ButthesufferingandhorrorhesawonthefrontknockedmuchofthatschoolboypreciousnessoutofGeorgeMallory.Therewasnojauntinessleftintheplainaccountofhisdiscoveryofthebodiesofhistwofriendskilledbytheshellthatexplodedjustbehindhim:

IhadnotgonemanypaceswhenIsawthattheywerebothlyingfacedownwards.Theyseemedtobedeadwhenwegottothem….Theywereverynicefellows—oneofthemquiteparticularlyso.Hehadbeenwithmeupinthefrontlinealldayandprovedthemostagreeableofcompanions.

Mallorywasluckytobesenthome,inMay1917,becauseofhisbadankle.Someofhisclosestfriendswerenotsofortunate,suchashisCambridgeclassmatethepoetRupertBrooke,whodiedofbloodpoisoning;orRobertGraves,grievouslywoundedinthetrenches;orGeoffreyWinthropYoung,wholostalegabovetheknee,butwouldgooninhisfortiestoclimbatahighstandardwithanartificiallimb.

In1914,onajaunttoVenicewithfriends,MalloryhadmetandfalleninlovewithRuthTurner.Shetoowasbeautiful—“Botticellian”washisownwordforher—andashegottoknowherheformedatrueunionofsoulswiththisquiet,loyal,well-educatedwoman.Theyweremarriedonlyfourmonthsaftermeeting,justasMalloryhadturnedtwenty-eight.Heatoncetaughthisbridetoclimb,haulingheralongonfarfromtrivialroutesinWales.Nordidhecoddleorprotecther.InthemiddleofaDecembergaleonSnowdon,George,Ruth,andDavidPyefaceda“precipitouslysteepandterrifying”descent.WhenRuthbalkedatplungingofftheridge,Georgetookherbytheshouldersand“simplypushedherforciblyovertheedge!…Nexthejumpedoveralsoandsoonwewereallgaspingincomparativepeacewhilethewindstillroaredoverhead.”

Despiteherbraveapprenticeshipinclimbing,despiteanaestheticcompatibilitybetweenherselfandherhusband,Ruth’stemperamentwasutterlydifferentfromGeorge’s.AccordingtoPye,Ruthwas“apersonofthewisestsimplicityandatranscendentpracticalness.”HerstabilityseemedtogiveMalloryananchorinlife.“Atotalstrangermeetingbothforthefirsttimeatsomeclimbingcentre,soonaftertheirmarriage,”wrotePye,“spokeoftheshockofdelightandastonishmentwhichtheyproduced.‘Theyseemtoogoodtobetrue.’”

BythetimehewasfightinginthetrenchesinFrance,Mallorywasthefatheroftwoinfantgirls—Clare,bornin1915,andBeridge,theyearafter.Athirdchild,John,wouldbebornin1920.Afterbeinginvalidedhome,MalloryhadreturnedtotheWesternFrontfortheverylastweeksofthewar.WhentheArmisticecame,hewroteRuth,“Whatawonderfullifewewillhavetogether!Whatalovelythingwemustmakeofsuchagift!”

Sofarashisbiographerscanascertain,RuthwastheonlyimportantwomaninMallory’slife.Afteradecadeofmarriage,theirpassionforeachotherseemedutterlyundimmed,astheirletters,collectedinthearchivesofMagdaleneCollege,testify.

Inthesummerof1919,MalloryreturnedtotheAlpsforthefirsttimeinsevenyears.Despitebadweatherandcompanionsfarlessboldorablethanhe,Georgepursuedajoyouscampaignofascents.AfteranepictraverseofMontBlancinastorm,MallorywroteYoungalongletter,onephraseofwhichleapsout,intheretrospectofEverest1924:“Howincompetenttiredmencanbecome,goingdown!”

IntheAlps,accordingtoDavidPye,Mallorydemonstratedanuncannyeyeforroute-finding.“Hewasalwaysdrawntothebigandtheunexplored—thegreatwallsthatmountaineersasarulesetasideasobviouslyimpossible.”Whenhefailedonaclimb,Mallorywasdevastated—“‘Iwasheavy!’heusedtosayintonesofdeepdisgust.”

MallorywashappytoclimbinWalesoncemorewithYoung,despitehismentor’sartificialleg.Tosavehisfriendtheagonyofstumpingalongtheapproachtrail,MallorycoaxedhislittlecaruptheMiner’sTracktotheveryfootofLliwedd.

ButforEverest,Mallorymighthavesettleddowntoalifeofschoolteaching,dabblingasawriter,andclimbingsummersintheAlps.Asearlyas1919,however,rumorsofaBritishreconnaissanceoftheapproachestotheworld’shighestmountainwerefloatingabout.NoWesternerhadstoodwithinfortymilesofitsflanks.

ForamanofMallory’srestlessspirit,thissirencallcouldnotgounheeded.HewasbynowunquestionablythefinestmountaineerinBritain.Buthewasalsoafatherandaschoolteacher,andhehesitatedwhentheinvitationcame.ItwasYoungwho,intwentyminutesduringavisit,persuadedMallory(inDavidRobertson’swords)“thatEverestwasanopportunitynottobemissed:itwouldbeanextraordinaryadventure;anditwouldbesomethingforGeorgetobeknownby,inhisfutureworkasaneducatororwriter.”

Thus,inadecisionmorepragmaticthanspiritual,GeorgeMallorywalkedopen-eyedintotheobsessionthatwouldmakehimfamous,andthatwouldcosthimhislife.

3Dissonance

CA

AFTERANIGHTofwretched“sleep,”thefiveofusstarteddownfromCampVonthemorningofMay2.AbovetheNorthColontheexposedsnowridge,IranintoVladislavTerzeul,whogoesbythenameSlava,thestrongestclimberonaUkrainianteamthatwaspreparingforitssummitattempt.Thefirstthinghesaidwas,“Oh,youfindMallory?”Iwastakenaback,butImumbled,“No,wehaven’t.”Slava’squestiondidn’tmeanthewordwasout.Everybodyonthemountainknewwhatwehadcomefor,sohiswasanaturalquestiontoask.

AttheNorthCol,IranintoRussellBrice.He’sastrongNewZealanderwhohadclimbedEverestbefore,andwasguidingclientsupthenorthside.Agreatguy.Heasked,“Well,didyoufindhim?”OncemoreImutteredadenial.

Thedaybefore,assoonasI’dbroadcastmycodedmessagesabouthobnails,Snickersandtea,andamandatorygroupmeeting,ourteammatesdownatAdvanceBaseandBaseCampknewthatwewereontosomething.Simohadcomeonshortlyafterwardtowarnusthatourbroadcastswerebeingmonitoredalloverthemountain.RussellBricehadaverygoodradiosetup,andhewasoneofthemoremeticulousmonitors.Maybehe’dpickedupsomething.ButafterSimo’swarning,we’dshutdown,maintainingvirtualradiosilenceeversince.

WedescendedtheicefalltoABC(AdvanceBaseCamp)at21,000feet,tospendthenight.TherewemetSimoandThomPollard,avideographerhiredbyNOVA.WecameintocamphikingasagroupsoThomcouldfilmourarrival.DaveHahnandIalwayslikedtojokeaboutwhowalksinlast,playingthehumblerole.NowtheguysinsistedthatIwalkinfirst.Simohadahugegrinonhisface,andhewaseagertohearthenews,butwehadtowaitbecausetherewereallthesefolksfromotherexpeditionsmillingaround.Finallywehoppedinsideourdiningtent,zippeditup,andthat’swhenDavetoldEricwhatwehadfound.

Hehadexpectedthatwe’drevealthatwe’dfoundSandyIrvine.WhenwetoldhimitwasMallorywe’ddiscovered,allSimocouldsaywas,“Wow,thisissomethingelse!”

Wecelebratedwithcookiesandtea,thendecidedtosharethenewswithRussellBrice.I’dbeenfeelingbadabouttellinghimwehadn’tfoundanything.NowRussellcongratulateduswarmlyandagreedtokeepthestoryunderwraps.

Thatevening,Simogotonthesatellitephonetocallhisgirlfriend,ErinCopland,inAshford,Washington,whowasactingasexpeditionpublicist.Tohisdismay,thefirstthingErinsaidwas,“Thestory’salreadyout.NOVAbrokethestoryyesterdayintheirdispatch.”

AtBaseCamp,LieslClark,theproduceroftheNOVAfilm,hadbeensendingreportsalmostdailytothePBSsiteontheInternet.MountainZonewasalsorunningdispatches.Thesewereusuallycalledinbysatellitephonefromtheexpeditionmembers(mostlySimo)toavoicemailbox;thedispatchesweretheneditedinSeattleandpostedontheInternet.DaveHahnputalotofextraenergyintohisdispatches.ThiswasDave’ssecondstintreportingforMountainZoneonEverest.Insteadofjustcallinginthefirstthing

thatcametomind,he’dstayupaslateas1:00A.M.somenightstypingwell-crafted,verydetailedreportsontoalaptop,thensendingthemtoSeattle.

SotheexpeditionwasbeingjointlycoveredontheInternet.WhenIgothome,Ireadallthedispatchesforthefirsttime.Liesl’sagoodwriter:herdispatcheswerelucid,comprehensive,andinformative;shealsotranscribedinterviewswithusclimbers.TheMountainZonedispatches,ontheotherhand,tendedtobefragmentedandcasual—whichisunderstandable,giventhattheguyswereusuallycallingSeattleattheendofahardday.Justasunderstandably,theydidn’ttakethebroadview;evenDave’swell-writtenreportstendedtoreflectwhateverhe’dbeendoingthatday.

OnMay1,thedayofthesearch,SimowastunedinatABC,whileLiesllistenedatBaseCamp.JochenHemmlebwasrightbesideher,peeringthroughhis200-powertelescope,commentingovertheradiooneverythingwedid.Duringtheearlystagesofthesearch,wewerereportingourprogresstoSimoandJochen.TheconversationbetweenJochenandJakeabouttheoxygenbottlewithbluepaintontheend,identifyingitasfromtheChinese’75expedition,wasontheair.SowasmydiscoveryofthetwomodernbodiesandtheexchangebetweenAndyPolitzandmeaboutwhereIwassearching.ItwasonlywhenIfoundMalloryandlapsedintothecodedmessagesthatweputupourguard.

Lieslwroteaclearplay-by-playofmonitoringourprogressbyradioandtelescopefromBaseCamp.Shereportedmycrypticmessage,“Let’sgettogetherforSnickersandtea,”andmycallrightafterthatfora“mandatorygroupmeeting.”Thenshewrote,“Thiswasthelastweheardfromtheclimbersfortheday.”

Lieslknewwe’dmadesomekindofdiscovery.Inherdispatch,shespeculatedoutloud:

Itbecameclearthatwhatseemedlikeanormalseriesofradiocallswasactuallyasignalthatsomethingwasup.Fromhistelescope,HemmlebcouldseethefiveclimberscomingtogetheronthebottomedgeofthesnowterracewhereAnkerstood.Was“Snickersandtea”acodeforsomethingfound?Weareveryawareofotherexpeditionslisteninginonourfrequency,andhadpreviouslyagreedthatifthebodywerefoundwewouldkeeptheradiotransmissionstoaminimum.This“mandatorygroupmeeting”whichsent[Andy]Politzsome330feetdownfromhissearchpositioncouldonlymeanthatAnkerhadfoundsomething.Butwhat?

Attheendofthatday,whenwe’dreachedCampV,wegotontheradio,justtoletSimoknowthateverybodywassafeandsound.WekeptmumaboutMallory,butDavecouldn’tresistsneakingin,“Jochen,youaregoingtobeahappyman.”

Lieslclosedherdispatchwiththatprovocativeteaser.Shesentitoff,andPBS/NOVAmusthavegottenitupontheInternetlateonMay1,U.S.time.Thedispatchprovedindeedtobeabombshell.Meanwhile,betweenApril29andMay2,theMountainZonesitehadnodispatchesatall.Dave,ofcourse,wasbusywiththesearch,andonceSimolearnedaboutourdiscovery,hewantedtodecidehowbesttobreakthenewstotheworld.

WhenSimofoundoutfromErinthatNOVAhadscoopedMountainZone,hewasfurious.Itwasn’tsimplythathewasthechiefreporterforMountainZone;Simohadenteredintoanexclusiveagreementwiththecompanyandfeltbetrayed.TheonlyprivatewaytocommunicatewithLiesl,acrossthethirteenmilesfromABCtoBaseCamp,wasbye-mail.SoonMay2,Simosentherareallyfrostye-mailmessage.Afterreprimandingherfor“cybercasting(asopposedtorunninganeducationalWebsite,asyouprofessed),”hemadethisthreat:“Iamforcedtotakeactioninthismatterandhavenochoicebuttoaskthatyoueitherceasecybercasting,orthatyouwillhavetoleavetheexpedition.”

Lieslwasreallyshakenup.WhenIgotdowntoBaseCamp,sheconfidedinme,“WhatdidIdoto

deservethis?”Later,SimocomplainedthatMountainZoneandNOVAhadanexplicitagreementthatNOVAwouldobserveatwenty-four-hourmoratoriumonallnews,togiveMountainZonethefirstcrackatanythingspectacular.ButPeterPotterfieldandSimonsonbothsubsequentlyclarifiedthatthetwenty-four-hourmoratoriumcameoutofthisblowup:beforeMay2,therewasnosuchagreement.Insum,Lieslsimplydidwhatanygoodreporterwoulddowithbreakthroughnews.

IfirstmetSimoonDenali(MountMcKinley)in1989,whenwewereonthemountainonseparateexpeditions.Hewasguidingclients,whileIwascollectinggraniterocksforageologicalprofileofthemountain.Simo’sbig,tall,forty-fouryearsold,withdarkhairandeyes,astrongmountaineerwho’sbecomeafull-timeguide.HelearnedhistradeonRainierunderLouWhittaker,whoseRMI(RainierMountaineering,Incorporated)wasforyearstheonlyguideserviceonthemountain.Afewyearsago,EricbrokeawaytoformIMG(InternationalMountainGuides),ofwhichhe’snowco-owner.IMGisambitious;theyguideKilimanjaroandVinson,thehighestpeakinAntarctica,aswellasChoOyu,ShishaPangma,andEverestintheHimalaya.TheotherguysonourclimbingteamhadworkedwithEriceitheratIMGorRMI.

SimoclimbedEverestin1991viathenorthside,onhisthirdexpeditiontothemountain.He’spaidhisduesinthehigh-stakesgameofhigh-altitudeclimbing.Thisyearhewasnotasdriventogohighastheotherguys.Insteadheusedhisenergytomanagetheexpedition.

Simo’sabsolutelybrilliantatlogistics.Icouldn’tbelievehowwelleverythingranonthisexpedition.Eric’scarefortheSherpasisexemplary.HemakessuretheSherpasaretreatedasequals,putsthehighestpriorityontheirsafety,andpaysthebestwages.Asaresult,hisSherpasareintenselyloyaltohim.Onthemountainhe’sextremelythorough,knowsthebestcampsites,knowsthevalueofhavingnewfixedropesinplace.He’sgotexpeditionaryclimbingdowntoascience.

Ericisprettyautocratic:heoperatesbestwhenhe’sincontrol.Ifyoumakeamistake,heletsyouknowitinnouncertainterms.He’llletyouknowwhatheexpectsofyou,whetheryouareaSherpaorateammemberorevenatrekker.LikemostEverestexpeditions,webroughtalongtrekkerswhopaidgoodmoneytojoinusatBaseCamp,thenculminatetheirjourneywithaclimbtoABC.Thedayaftertheyarrived,twotrekkerssimplytookoffwithouttellinganybodywheretheyweregoing.Tap,Jake,andImarchedupafrozenravinelookingforthefellowsatdusk.Anightintheopenwouldnotonlyhavethreatenedtheirlives,itcouldhaveseriouslyimpededourownclimbingplans.Thetwotrekkersmadeitbacktocampanhourafterdark.Simoorderedthemofftheexpedition,sendingthemhomethenextday,nomoneyrefunded.Perhapsheoverreacted,butIthinkthemovewasjustified,thatitgaveoutaclearmessageaboutleadershipandresponsibility.

Talkinthediningtentinvariablydriftedtopolitics.Simo’swelltotherightofmostofus,andhelikedtotweakourliberalsensibilities.WhenJakeNortonwouldstarttalkingaboutTibetanindependence,whichhecarespassionatelyabout,Simowouldsay,“No,Jake,it’snot‘saveTibet,’it’s‘paveTibet.’”

TheblowupaboutNOVAscoopingMountainZonebringsupanotherinterestingpoint.Moreandmoreinthefuture,expeditionstoremoteplacesoneartharegoingtobecoveredlive,in“realtime,”overtheInternet.Andeventheproponentsofthiskindofyou-are-therereportorialimmediacyhaveonlybeguntothinkouttheaestheticsandethicsofthatkindofjournalism.

Mycollaborator,DavidRoberts,toldmeabouthisownexperienceacoupleofyearsbackinEthiopia,wherehemadethefirstdescentofamajorriverwithabunchofraftingguidesfromSobek.HewaswritingdispatcheseverynightfortheMicrosoftonlineadventuremagazine,MungoPark.

Earlyintheexpedition,theteamdoctorgotterriblysick.Helaytherepukingandmoaning,andhis

temperaturewentover105ºF.Itwastrulyalife-or-deathpredicament.Theexpeditiongroundtoahaltwhileitsleadersdebatedwhethertotrytoarrangeahelicopterrescue,whichwouldhavebeenaperilousoperation.ThiswasRoberts’sdilemma:shouldhereportinrealtimewhatwashappeningtothedoctor?Wasthattheproperwayforhiswifetolearnwhatwasgoingon?Nothingelsewashappeningontheriver,andtheteamwasinthemiddleofagenuinelydramaticcrisis.ButRobertshadtoponderthepossibilitythatifhesentoutthenews,hemightlauncharescueeffortevenwithouttheteamleaderscallingforone.Intheend,hechosetowritethetruth.Fortunately,thedoctor’sfeverbrokeandhewasabletofinishtheexpedition.

OnMay1,whatwasLieslsupposedtodo,exceptreportwhatshesawandheardonwhathadturnedouttobethemostdramaticdaysofar,onthisexpeditionthathundredsofthousandsofWebuserswerefollowingonline?

Inanyevent,onceSimolearnedfromErinthatNOVAhadalreadyputoutsomekindofhotnewsontheInternet,heandDavestayeduplateintothenightwritingtheirowndispatch.ItwentuponthemorningofMay3,anditwasthedefinitivestory.Ericwrote,“Ihavesomehugenewstoannounce,soIhopeeveryoneissittingdownandreadyforthisone….I’mpleasedtoannouncethatthe1999Mallory&IrvineResearchExpeditionhasfoundtheremainsofGeorgeMallory,lostonMountEverestonJune8th,1924.”Davewentontodescribethediscovery,andtoofferarationaleforpartiallyexcavatingthebody:“Wedidn’twanttodisturbhim,he’dbeenlyingtherefor75years,butatthesametimewethoughtwhatbettertributetothemanthantotryandfindoutifhehadsummittedMt.Everestin1924.”

Forthefirsttime,MountainZoneranaspecialcaveatattheheadofthedispatch:“ThiscopyrightedcontentisexclusivetoMountainZone.comandmaynotbeusedonanyotherwebsiteornewsmedia.”

Asiftomakeupforbeingscooped,MountainZonenowfloodedtheWebwithnews.ByMay4,theyhadpostedphoned-indispatchesnotonlyfromDaveandEric,butfromJake,Tap,Andy,andme,eachgivingoursideofthediscoverystory.Atthesite,Davehadshotalotofpictureswithadigitalcamera.NowatABChedownloadedanddigitallytransmittedtheimagesviasatellitephonetoSeattle.Eventually,MountainZonehadonitssiteadramaticphotoofMallory’sbodyfromthewaistup,hisbare,alabasterbackloominginthecenter,thepowerfulmusclesflexed,hisfingersplantedinthescree.Atthetime,wejustthoughtofthephotoasanimportantaidindocumentingourfind.Wehadnoideahowcontroversialthatpicturewouldprovetobe.

OnthemorningofMay3,atABC,anItalian-Americanclimber,FabrizioZangrilli,walkedovertoourcampandsaid,“Hey,youguysfoundMallory.IjusthearditontheBBC.”Thatwasourfirstinklingjusthowbigthenewswasplayingaroundtheworld.WewentintoFabrizio’sradiotentandgottheBBContheshortwave.Thestorycameuponthehour.TherewasErin’svoice,talkingaboutthediscovery,andsuddenlySirEdmundHillarywithashortcomment.Itwasamazinghowfastthemediahadmoved.

AtnoonwestarteddowntoBaseCamp,at17,200feet.Wegotthereaboutdusk.Everyonewasecstatic,givingusbighugs.JochencameoverandservedmeteaandsomelittleSnickersbars,whilethecamerarolled.ThateveningwecelebratedwithaliberaldramofScotchforall.

Thesameevening,wefilmedourinitialscrutinyoftheartifacts.Themoodinthetentwaspensive,aseachofusweighedthescopeofthediscovery.Thenextday,wewereconcernedaboutmoisturedamagingtheobjects,soIbuiltadryingtabletospreadthemon.ThenJochentookovertheprocess,asplanned,inventorying,measuring,anddescribingeachobject.Hewasveryfussyabouttheprocedurethathadtobefollowed.Firsthehadtohearouraccountofthefind,thenheexaminedandcataloguedeachartifact,thenhereviewedthevideo.Likeaconnoisseursavoringawine,Jochenrelishedeverydetail.

Jochen,Liesl,andIopenedthelettersthatMalloryhadwrappedinhishandkerchiefandreadthemcarefully.Thenextday,Lieslmadeatranscriptiononherlaptop,asbackupincaseanythinghappenedtotheoriginals.

Meanwhile,welearnedfromErininSeattlethattherewasahugedemandforphotosofMallory’sbody.Forexpeditionclimbers,usedtogoingofftoremoteplaceswherewe’dbeoutoftouchwiththerestoftheworldformonthsatatime,itwashardtorealizewhatthewondersofmoderntechnologymightmean.Butitbegantodawnonusthatwhilewewerestillonthemountain,withthetripfarfromover,pictureswehadtakencouldbedigitallytransmittedtotheU.S.,sold,andpublished.Werealizedtheremightbeaheftychunkofcashcominginforthephotorights.

WehadagroupmeetingatBaseCamptodiscusshowtohandlephotorights.Priortotheexpedition,theclimbingteamhadagreedtopooltheproceedsanddividethemequally.LieslsuggestedweturnthedigitalimagesovertoGammaLiaison,awell-respectedagencyshehadworkedwithinthepast.Thatseemedlikeagoodidea.

Itquicklybecameclearthatabiddingwarforexclusivephotorightshadalreadybegunamongthemagazinesandnewspapersonatleastthreecontinents.ForyoungguyslikeTapandJake,strugglingtomakeendsmeetasclimbingguides,youcouldunderstandthetemptationtoselltothehighestbidder.Fromonephoto,theymightmakeasmuchmoneyastheycouldinthreeweeksofguidingonDenali.Davewantedtosellthepicturestoasmanypublicationsaswouldrunthem,togivehimselfthemaximumexposureasphotographer,aprofessionhe’sseriousabout.

Ifeltweshouldaimforthepublicationwiththehighestcredibility,inhopesthatitwouldputthemostpositivespinonmountaineering.Climbersgetmalignedalltoooften.Everytimesomedrunkfallsoffaroadcut,themediacallitaclimbingaccident.OrpeopleseeCliffhanger,andtheythinkthat’swhatclimbing’sallabout.Imakemylivingatclimbing,andI’mverysensitiveabouthowoursportisportrayed.Ididn’twantourexpeditiontobeseenasabunchofthrillseekersortreasurehunters.

Forthesamereason,whentheguystalkedaboutwhatthey’ddowiththemoney,IsaidthatIplannedtogiveminetosomecharitythatwouldhelpoutthepeopleofTibet.IwasalwaysmindfulofhowfortunateIwastobehereclimbingonthisgreatmountain,whichwecouldn’thavedone,forinstance,withoutthehelpofourTibetanyakherders.I’mcomfortablewiththelivingImakeclimbing.Isawthefindasawaytogenerategoodness.

Intheend,thephotowenttothehighestbidder.NewsweekwontheauctionintheU.S.;forawhile,wewerehearingnumbersupwardof$14,000,thoughintheendtheymayhavepaidalotless.Unfortunately,intheU.K.andAustraliatabloidnewspaperswonout.

Foraboutaweek,however,wewereflyinghigh—everybodyseemedhappyaboutourdiscovery,everyoneshowereduswithcongratulations.Thenwebegantohearthefirstnotesofdiscord.TheycameprincipallyoutofBritain,andwewereshockedwhenwelearnedthatwhatwehaddoneat26,700feethadelicitednotonlypraise,butsavagecriticism.

DR

THENEWSABOUTMALLORYindeedgalvanizedtheworld.Newsweekranaresponsiblestorywithitsexclusivephotoofthemummifiedbody,butrefusedatfirsttopayforthepicture,becauseTimehad“bootlegged”thesameimage,runningapictureofthecoveroftheAustralianpaperthathadbrokenthestory,completewith“exclusive”photo.Unfortunately,theBritishandAustraliantabloidscoveredthediscoverywithallthesensitivityofatwo-headedbabytaleorPrincessDiséance.

Atfirst,evenamongseasonedmountaineers,therewasgreatexcitementaboutthepossibilitythatthefindlentcredencetothenotionthatMalloryandIrvinehadreachedthesummit.AndyPolitz’sinsight—thatMallory’shavingputhisgogglesinhispocketmeantthattheaccidenthadcomeatduskorafter—gotalltooeasilytranslatedintoascenarioinwhichthepairfellastheydescendedafterreachingthetop.

ThustheGermanmagazineStern,runningitsownexclusive,titleditscoverstory,aboveaportraitofMalloryinsetagainstaHimalayanicescape,“WarerderErste?”—“Washethefirst?”Sternalsowasatpainstoportrayitsowncountry’sfair-hairedboy,JochenHemmleb,asthegeniusbehindthediscovery:acall-outfromthearticleread,“DirectedbytheGermanovertheradio,thesearch-troopfoundthedeadbody.”

ByMay3,onlytwodaysafterthefind,NOVAhadaninterviewwithDavidBreashearsuponitsWebsite.ThedirectorandcinematographerofthegroundbreakingEverestIMAXfilm,aswellasofa1987documentarycalledEverest:TheMysteryofMalloryandIrvine,Breashearshadbeentothemountainonfourteenexpeditions,summittingfourtimes.Hesaid,“Ithinkit’sincrediblyexcitingthatthey’vefinallyfoundGeorgeMallory’sbody.”Breashearswentontospeculatethatitwasnotsurprisingthecamerawasn’tfoundwithMallory,foritwouldhavemademoresensethatIrvinewouldbeinchargeoftakingpicturesoftheleader—“themanofEverest…GeorgeMallory.”BreashearsheldouthopethatasubsequentsearchwouldcomeupnotonlywithIrvine’sbody,butwiththecamerathatcouldsolvethemysteryforgood.HeclosedwithatributeinthesameveinasConradAnker’sawe-struckpenséeashehadsatbesideMallory’sbody:“AllthoseyearsthatI’vebeengoingtoEverest…thinkingabouttheseincrediblementryingforthesummitofEverestin1924,incottonwindsuitsandtweedjackets,forme,IfeelabitreassuredandabitresolvedthatweknowwhereGeorgeMalloryis.”

BreashearslatervividlytookissuewiththeHemmleb-as-directorspinonthestory:“AllHemmlebdidwasfeedsomedataintothecomputerandthinkhe’dreinventedinformation.Mallorywasn’tadotontheoceanfloor,andthoseguysweren’tsubmersibles.ConradAnkerwastheonlyrealclimberontheteam.ThereasontheyfoundMalloryisbecauseConradusedhisclimber’seyetofigureoutwheretolook.”

Atfirst,especiallyinEngland,thediscoverywashailedasasplendidevent,renewingthenation’ssenseofprideinitsEverestpioneers.“Admirationgrowswithhindsight,”editorializedtheTimesofLondon.“MallorywasinalongtraditionofEnglishadventurersandsportsmenwhosenonchalanceandgentlemanlydemeanormaskedfierceambition.”

“Thereremainssomethingwonderfulaboutthespiritofplay,”echoedtheGuardian,“thatcarriespeopleintocontestswherethereisnomaterialreward,nopointbutthethingitself.”

Withthepublicationofthephotos—theoneshowingMallory’sbareback,hisfingersclawingatthescree,hisfacefrozenintotheground,theotherzoominginontheman’svulnerable,nakedleftlegcradlingthehopelesslyfracturedrightone—anothernoteemergedinthepublicresponse.Someviewersfoundaneeriefascinationintheimages,likeBorisJohnsonoftheDailyTelegraph,whowrote,“Somethingaboutthesepicturescausesthenapetoprickle.Notthattheyaregruesome:no,thereissomethingaboutthatbleachedtorsowhichisalreadysculptural,atoneremove.”

Yetothercommentators,includingsomeofthemostfamousclimbersintheworld,wereoutragedbythepublicationofthephotos.“I’mabsolutelyappalledbythis.Wordscan’texpresshowdisgustedIam….Thesepeopledon’tdeservetobecalledclimbers,”SirChrisBoningtontoldtheLondonObserver.Boningtonhadledthelandmark1975firstascentofthesouthwestfaceofEverest,then,tenyearslater,hadbecomeatfiftytheoldestmantosummit(thoughhisrecordstoodforonlyninedays).SirEdmundHillary,whosefirstresponsehadbeenpositive,changedhismind,deploringthenotionthat“theexpeditionmembersshouldflogoffthephotographofthisheroicfigure.”

Mallory’sgrandsonGeorgeMalloryII,whohadclimbedEverestbythenorthridgein1995,weighedin:“Frankly,itmakesmebloodyangry….It’slikediggingfordiamonds,withouthavingtodoanyofthedigging.”

EvenAudreySalkeld,whohadspentyearsbecomingtheleadingexpertonMallory,andwhowasservingasaconsultantontheNOVAfilm,wasdisturbed:“I’mhorrifiedit’sgottothisstage,”shetoldtheObserver.“Ifeelveryuncomfortableaboutit.”

EricSimonsonhadmaintainedthatalltheexpedition’sactionsatthesite,downtothetakingoftheDNAsample,hadbeenapprovedbeforehandbysomeoneintheMalloryfamily.InSantaRosa,California,however,ClareMillikan,ateighty-threetheeldestofMallory’sthreechildren,wasupsetthatnobodyfromtheexpeditionhadcontactedherbeforethediscovery.

Hadtheteamsetforthlastspringonatraditionalexpedition,allthispublicresponsewouldhaveemergedonlyaftertheyhadreturnedtotheU.S.toreporttheirgreatfind.Butnow,thankstothesatellitephoneandtheInternet,evenastheyrestedatBaseCamp,withotherimportantgoalsstilltopursue,thepartywasplungedintothemidstofthecontroversy.Herelayanotherpeculiartwisttowhatmightbecalledpostmodernexploration:thereactionofaworldwideaudiencetoanadventurestillintheprocessofunfoldingcoulddeterminecrucialturnsinthecourseofthatadventure.

Anotherby-productofthispostmodernexpedition’sself-narrationin“realtime”wasacertainaestheticloss,comparedtothechroniclesofearlierexploitsonEverest.Aftereachofthe1921,1922,and1924expeditions,thememberslaboredformonthstocompilemonumentalvolumesrecountingtheirjourneys.Thosebooks—MountEverest:TheReconnaissance,1921;TheAssaultonMountEverest,1922;andTheFightforEverest—havebecomeclassics.ChaptersbyMallory,NoelOdell,andTeddyNortoncontainsomeofthecanonicpassagesintherichliteratureofmountaineering.

Bycontrast,intheflurryofMountainZonedispatchesinwhichtheteammatesstruggledtoexpresstheirfeelingsonMay1,1999,theymanagedtoproduceonlyinarticulateoutburstsofenthusiasm.“Wejustcamedownfromthesearcharea,”reportedJakeNorton,“anditwasaprettyinterestingtime.”“I’mstillblownawaybyyesterday,”offeredDaveHahn:“wefoundGeorgeMalloryanditwasanincredibleday.”“ItwasreallyneattobetherewithGeorgeMallory,”gushedTapRichards.TheusuallythoughtfulConradAnkercameupwiththelameaperçu,“Hehadbeentherequiteawhile,andtherewassomethingvery,verysubtleabouthisbeingthere,notreallyscaryandviolent.”(CompareOdell’smusingonMallorygoingall-outforthesummit,inTheFightforEverest:“AndwhoofusthathaswrestledwithsomeAlpinegiantintheteethofagale,orinaracewiththedarkness,couldholdbackwhensuchavictory,suchatriumphofhumanendeavour,waswithinourgrasp?”)

Nodoubtthe1999team’sblatheringsweremerelythedetritusoftheageofthesoundbite.Butthelackofopportunitytoreflectonapowerfulexperience,alongwiththefactthat,thankstotheInternet,everythingtheteamdidandblurtedoutwasatonceavailableforpublicconsumption,helpedpowertheemotionalrollercoastertheexpeditionnowrode.

IthadsimplyneveroccurredtoSimonsonandhispartnersthatphotographingandfilmingthecorpse,orriflingthroughitspockets,mightprovokedisapproval.NowtheangryandcriticalreactionfrommountaineeringheroessuchasBoningtonandHillarydeeplydismayedtheteam.EricSimonsoncalledagroupmeetingtodiscusswhatAnkerhaddubbedthe“dissonance.”OneupshotofthatconferencesurfacedwhenSimonsonannounced,inapost-expeditionpressconference,thatallprofitsfromthesaleofMalloryphotoswouldgonotintothepocketsofteammembers,butto“Himalayancharitiestobedeterminedlater.”

Thememberswereonlybeginningtorecognizethefactthatextremelyknottylegaltanglesmightwellhangoverthe“artifacts”andtheletters,whichtheyhopedtocarrybacktotheStates.Towhomdidthestuffultimatelybelong?Wasitacaseoffinderskeepers;weretheteammembers,inAnker’spithyphrase,“theMelFishersofhigh-altitudeclimbing,”treatingMallorylikealong-lostSpanishgalleon?OrdidMallory’sestatehaveapriorclaim?SomeoneinEnglandhadcomeforthtoarguethatthegearfoundwithMallorybelongedtothecompaniesthathadoriginallysponsoredthe1924expedition.Asforthelettersandnotesandtherighttopublishtheircontents,whichcopyrightlawsapplied?TheChineseorTibetanregulationsoftoday,orBritain’sin1924?

ThroughtheInternet,theteamlearnedaboutthedebacleoftheaccidentalbombingoftheChineseembassyinBelgradebyNATOplanes,andabouttherabidanti-AmericanproteststhatacthadprovokedinChina.Thefeargrewamongthemembersthat,astheymadetheirwayoutofTibet,Chineseauthoritiesmightconfiscatetheartifacts.Forthatreason,Simonsondidnotatfirsttelltheteam’sHanChineseliaisonofficeraboutfindingMallory.(ThemanlearnedofthediscoveryonlybylisteningtoChineseradio.)AndwhentrekkerShelleneScottleftBaseCamptogohometotheStatesonMay9,shecarriedsomeoftheobjectsinherbaggage.

AsAnkerhadlaidouttheartifactstodryatBaseCamp,andHemmlebhadporedoverthem,makingnotes,itbecameincreasinglyclearthatevensuchhumblebelongingsasaboxofmatchesandatinofbeeflozengeshadbothforensicandsymbolicvalue.Formanyyearsnow,RobertFalconScott’sdiary,foundbyhisteammatesbesidehisdeadbodyeightmonthsafterhisdemiseonthereturnjourneyfromtheSouthPole,haslainunderglassinthereadingroomoftheBritishMuseum,turnedopentoitsfamouslastpage.SurelyMallory’sbentgoggles,hismonogrammedhandkerchief,hadacomparablenumen.

Higheronthemountain,DaveHahnhadcursorilyglancedthroughtheletterstheteamhadfoundwrappedinthehandkerchief.OnewasfromMallory’ssisterMary,anotherfromhisbrother,Trafford;bothwerefulloffamilynewsandholidaychat.Athird,thoughalsonewsy,hadalineindicatingadeeperintimacy.Tryingtomakeoutthesignature,Hahnconcludedthatitread“Sweetie,”andjumpedtotheobviousconclusion.AshewroteinhisMay4MountainZonedispatch:“Thereweresomeremarkablethingsthatturnedup…culminatinginaperfectlypreservedletterfromhiswife,wornonhischest,closetohisheart.”

Now,downatBaseCamp,Anker,Hemmleb,andLieslClarkreadthelettersmorecarefully,asClarktranscribedtheircontentsontoherlaptop.Studyingthesignatureonthethirdletter,theyrealizedthatitreadnot“Sweetie”(byalloddsanunlikelysobriquetforRuthtohaveassumed),but“Stella.”Suddenlytheunexplainedthirdletterseemedapotentialbombshell.TheepistlehadbeenpostedfromLondonS.W.4,buthadnoreturnaddress;ithadbeenwrittenonthestationeryofaposhEnglishmen’sclub,withtheletterheadscratchedout.

WhowasStella?Wasthisaloveletter?Readingandrereadingthesentences,ClarkandAnkercouldnotdecide.Theintimatephrasemightjusthavesprungfromtheeffusivevocabularycurrentamongfriendsandrelativesinthe1920sinBritain;yetwhatabouttheapparenteffortstoconcealthewriter’sidentityandtheletter’sprovenience?

TheStellaletterbecameacloselyguardedsecretwithintheexpedition.ClarkcouldimaginewhattheEnglishtabloidswoulddowiththisrevelation(“LostMountaineer’sSecretLover”)—withlittlemorethantheknowledgethatsuchaletterexistedandhadbeencarriednexttoMallory’sheartonhissummitattempt.Yet,assooftenhappenswithaconfidencesharedamongtoomanyindependentsouls,rumorsabouttheStellaletterleakedout.

EricSimonsontriedhardtocontrolthegossip.OnMay7,inaMountainZonedispatch,hecorrected

Hahn’serror,inasvagueafashionashecouldmanage:

Fortherecord,therewereseveraldifferentlettersfromvariousfamilymembers.Thehandwritingonsomeofthemisalittletoughtoread,andit’snotentirelyclearwhethertheletterfromhiswifewasinfactfromhiswife,butwe’reworkingonthat.

Thereisnodoubtthat,aslateas1924,Mallorywasstilldeeplyinlovewithhiswife.Hislongletterstoherfromtheexpeditionbreathethatpassion,andthepainofseparation:“HowIwishIhadyouwithme!Withsomuchleisureweshouldhaveenjoyedthetimetogether….Greatlovetoyou,dearestone.”

Yetatthesametime,thoselettersadumbratecertainrecentproblemsthecouplehadfaced:“IknowIhaveratheroftenbeencrossandnotnice,andI’mverysorry.”“Wewentthroughadifficulttimetogetherintheautumn.”Mallory’sbiographershavealwaysassumedthatthetroublesthusalludedtohadtodowithcareerandmoney,andwiththemanymonthsMallorywasawayonEverest.

UponhisreturntotheU.S.,SimonsonkeptthelettersunderlockandkeyattheWashingtonStateHistoricalMuseum.InlateJuly,hetraveledtoCaliforniatopresenttheletterstoClareMillikanandherbrother,JohnMallory,whotraveledtotheU.S.fromSouthAfricatoretrievethem.HermemoryproddedbytheStellaletter,ClarerememberedoneStellaMellersh,awomanwhohadmarriedacousinofRuthMallory’s.ShehadbeenagenerationolderthanGeorgeMallory.

RickMillikan,Clare’ssonandMallory’sgrandson,carefullyreadtheletteranddecidedthattheapparentlyintimatephrasehadbeenmisreadatBaseCamp:allitreallysaid,Millikanthought,wassomethinglike,“Muchlovetoyou,George.”SimonsonpointedoutsomepenciledscribblingsontheenvelopeinMallory’shand,whichhethoughtmightbeaninventoryofoxygenbottles.ItoccurredtoSimonsonandMillikanthatperhapsMalloryhadcarriedtheStellalettersohighmainlytousetheenvelopeasapieceofnotepaper!

FromthisCaliforniameeting,JohnMallorycarriedthelettersbacktoMagdaleneCollege,Cambridge,wheretheyweretobearchivedwiththeexistingMallorycorrespondence.EventuallyscholarswillbeabletopuzzleovertheStellalettertotheirhearts’content,determiningwhetheritreallyisanintimatemessagefromaphantomloveroronlyapleasantnotefromadistantolderrelative.

AsstrikinginitsownwayastheanomalousStellaletterwastheabsenceofanymissivefromRuthinthatneatlyfoldedhandkerchief.OnthejourneyfromDarjeeling,andevenatBaseCamp,Malloryhadreceivedlettersfromhiswife.ClareMillikanwastoldatageeightthatherfathercarriedaphotoofRuth,whichheintendedtoleaveonthesummit.AmongthosewhomostwantedtobelieveMallorycouldhavemadeittothetop,herewasanothercircumstantialargument:perhapsthegreatmountaineerhadindeedleftthemostpreciousthinghecouldcarry—aletterfromoraphotoofhiswife—amongthesummitsnows.

CA

ONMAY8,WEDESCENDEDfromBaseCamptotheRongbukMonastery—thehighestmonasteryintheworld,destroyedbytheChineseduringtheCulturalRevolution,butmostlyrebuiltsince.Lieslshotsomefilmfootagethere,butthemainideawastobideourtime,tofattenupandrechargepriortoheadingbackupforthesecondandmoredemandingsummitphaseoftheexpedition.

MymethodofrechargingistoeatallthejunkfoodIcan,alldaylong.Candybars,potatochips,littlebitsofcheese,sardines—anythingwithahighfatcontent.Thedownsideofthisday-longgrazingwasthatwhenwewereserveddinner,Ididn’thavemuchappetiteforaplatefulofricewithstewedcabbage,

becauseI’dbeeneatingalotofchocolate.Butcaloriesarecalories.It’snotsomuchaquestionoffatteningupasoftryingtokeepweighton.IknewIhadalreadylostweightontheexpedition.Mylegsweregettingthinner.

AtBouddanath,inKathmandu,atthebeginningoftheexpedition,wehadhadapujaceremony,ablessingfortheexpedition.Later,onApril1,themonksfromtheRongbukMonasterycameuptoBaseCamptogiveusasecondpuja.ThehighlamawholedtheceremonyatBouddanathhadtiedaredprayerknotaroundmyneck.Threemonthslater,Ihaven’ttakenitoff:it’sacommonBuddhistpracticetoleaveitonuntilitdisintegrates.

AtthepujaatBaseCamp,wehadtruckedinsomejunipertoburn,andwemadeofferingstothemonks.IgavethemabunchofSkittles—ahardcandyIsometimeseatwhenI’mrock-climbing—someturkeyjerky,andaCoca-Cola.Themonkstossedricearound,whichallthebirdscametofeedon,andtheysmearedtsampaflouronourfacesandgaveustsampacaketoeat.

Someoftheguysonourexpeditiondidn’ttakethepujaveryseriously.PeterFirstbrook,theBBCdirector,waswashinghissocksattheRongbukpuja.Youwouldn’twashyoursocksduringservicesatSt.Paul’sCathedral.OtherWesternersjustmoreorlesstoleratedtheceremony.YoucanseethatinthewayDaveHahnwroteuptheBaseCamppujaonMountain-Zone:

WehadourPujayesterday.Thatiswhenweputthepackingandplanningonholdandgetdowntosomeseriousbegging.ThePujaisaceremonydesignedtogetsomegoodcreditwiththegods,seeingashowwearenowgoingtogetuptooureyeballsinthisthing.Really,itisfortheSherpasandtheirbrandofmountainBuddhism.Wetrytoshowourrespectforthemandtheirbeliefsbyallowingtheceremony.

ThepujaisindeedadeeplyseriousceremonyfortheSherpas.AndItakeitveryseriouslytoo.AttheBouddanathpuja,fromalittletrayofofferingsthelamaspassedaround,IpickedoutawalnutthatIintendedtoleaveonthesummit.

Iwouldn’tcallmyselfaBuddhist,butIhaveagreatadmirationforthereligion.TheDalaiLamasayshisreligioniskindness.Ifyou’regoingtobekindtoyourself,bekindtoyourfriends,toyourpartner,yourfamily,theanimals,thetrees.Ibelieveinthat.Ialsobelieveinkarma.It’snotjustamatteroftherightactions;youhavetohavetherightintentionsaswell.

Therewasthesamekindofrangeinresponsetothepujawaybackinthe1920s.ExpeditionmemberBentleyBeetham,inTheFightforEverest,theofficialbookfrom1924,describescominguponaserviceinprogressintheRongbukMonasteryastheteamleftthemountain.“Hithertowehadfeltnothingbutrevulsionforthelamas,”Beethamwrites;afterall,theseBuddhistmonkswereidolaters,worshipingfalsegods.Yetashewatched,hegotcaughtupintheceremony,untilhehadtoadmitthatitwas“themostimpressive,themostmovingserviceI,forone,haveeverattended.”Beethamwassomovedthathisculturalsuperioritywastempered:“TheseTibetansmaybewrong,theymaybedeceived,buttheyareobviouslyinearnest;anEnglishcongregationmaynotbedeceived,butaretheyinearnest?”

Astheinternationalfussaboutourdiscoverystartedtocalmdownabit,weplannedthesecondstageofourexpedition.We’dhopedtomakeasecondsearchforSandyIrvineandthecamera.ButithadsnowedafairamountsinceMay1,andweweren’tsosanguineaboutourchancesofmakingasecondfind.

Andfourofus—DaveHahn,TapRichards,JakeNorton,andI—wantedtohaveashotatthesummit.Inaddition,Ihadapersonalaspiration,whichSimoandIhaddiscussedevenbeforewelefttheStates.Iwantedtotrytofree-climbtheSecondStep.That,forme,wasthecrucialtestofthelikelihoodthat

MalloryandIrvinecouldhavemadethesummit.

Tofree-climbapitchistoscaleitusingonlyone’shandsandfeet,withoutrelyingonartificialobjects—pitons,machinednuts,evenladders—togainupwardprogress.

Somebackgroundisinorder.OnJune4,1924,TeddyNortonhadreachedaheightcalculatedas28,126feetbytraversingwestacrossthenorthfaceandenteringtheGreatCouloir.In1933,FrankSmytheexactlymatchedthathighpoint,whichstood,intheabsenceofanysureknowledgeofMalloryandIrvine’sachievement,astheworldaltituderecorduntil1952,whentheSwissRaymondLambertandtheSherpaTenzingNorgayturnedbackontheSouthColrouteonly800feetbelowthesummit.

TheGreatCouloirwouldproveafeasiblerouteupthenorthsideofEverest,asReinholdMessnerdemonstratedinmakinghisamazingoxygenlesssoloascentin1980.ButweknowthiswasnottheroutefollowedbyMalloryandIrvine,becauseOdellsawthemhighontheskylineofthenorthridge.

TheSecondStepisaninety-foot-high,nearlyverticalcliffthatinterruptsthenorthridgeat28,230feet.There’snowayofskirtingit:youhavetotackleithead-on.UnlessMalloryandIrvineclimbedit,thefirstmentograpplewiththisformidableobstacleweretheChineseteamin1960.Bytheirownaccount,whichappearedinapropagandaorgancalledChinaReconstructs,afteranall-outeffortinwhichoneclimbertookoffhisbootsandglovesandtriedthecliffinstockingfeet,apartnersolvedtheclimbbystandingonanotherteammate’sshoulders.Threementhenwentontothetopinthedark.

Orsothearticleclaims.I’vealwayshadmydoubtsaboutthatpurportedascent,andsohaveothers.

Thefirstwell-documentedascentofthenorthridge,alsobyChinese,camein1975,duringtheexpeditiononwhichWangHongbaofoundhis“oldEnglishdead.”AwareofthedifficultyoftheSecondStep,theteamhauledaladderuptothecruxandtiedittopitonstheypoundedinplace.Allsubsequentascentsofthenorthridgehaveusedtheladderand/orthemyriadfixedropesnowinplaceontheStep.

MalloryandIrvine,ofcourse,hadhadnoladder.SoifIcouldfree-climbtheSecondStepandjudgeitsdifficulty,thatwouldtellusalotaboutwhetherMalloryandIrvinecouldhavepulleditoffin1924,inhobnailedbootsandtweedjackets,holdingathincottonropeinananchorlessgentleman’sbelay.

Wewerejustgettingorganizedtoheadbackupthemountainwhensomethinghappenedthatputallourplansonhold.Thatspring,amongtheseveralexpeditionsonthenorthsideofEverest,we’dbeenthefirsttogetuphigh,tofixropesandpitchCampsIVandV.FollowingrightafteruswasthestrongUkrainianteam,who,despitethelanguagebarrier,hadbecomeourfriends.

They’ddecidedearlyonthatMay8wastobetheirsummitday.Unfortunately,May8turnedouttobetheworstdayofourfortysofaronthemountain.EvendownattheRongbukMonastery,itwassnowingonus.Icouldseethattheweatherwasn’tjusttheusualafternoonbuildupofclouds.Thereweresquallsandflurriesdevelopingintoamajorstorm.

WedecidedtoheadbackuptoBaseCamp.Theweathergotworseandworse.By9:00P.M.,weknewtheUkrainianswereinserioustrouble.Insteadofclimbingthemountainourselves,weweregoingtohavetogooutandtrytorescuethem.

4MalloryofEverest

DR

THE1921RECONNAISSANCEOFEVEREST,pursuedthroughthemonsoonsummerandintotheautumnseason,wasinmanyrespectsacolossalmess.Theparty’stalentswerewildlyuneven,withseveralover-the-hill,out-of-shapeveteransinleadershippositions.Entrustedwithchoosingateam,theEverestCommittee—anationalboardofexploratoryexpertsformedfortheexpresspurposeofclaimingthe“ThirdPole”fortheEmpire—valuedyearsofhill-walkingandHimalayanramblingovertechnicalmountaineeringskills.

Fromthestart,Mallorywasatseriousoddswiththeteam’sleader,CharlesHoward-Bury,anditsclimbingleader,HaroldRaeburn,bothmucholderthanhe.Oftheformer,hewroteRuth,“Heisnotatolerantperson.Heiswell-informedandopinionatedanddoesn’tatalllikeanyoneelsetoknowthingshedoesn’tknow.Forthesakeofpeace,Iambeingverycarefulnottobroachcertainsubjectsofconversation.”OfRae-burn:“Heisdreadfullydictatorialaboutmattersoffact,andoftenwrong.”

BeforethepartyevengotnearMountEverest,thewell-likedbutfifty-year-oldScottishdoctor,A.M.Kellas,diedofdysentery.Histeammatesburiedhimonastonyhillside,inwhatMallorycalled“anextraordinarilyaffectinglittleceremony.”

Inviewofthe1999controversyoverscoopsontheInternetandsecretsguardedbySimonson’steammates,itisinterestingtonotethatthesamekindsofworriesafflictedthefirstexpeditiontoapproachtheworld’shighestmountain.TheEverestCommitteehadmadeadealwiththeTimesofLondonforexclusivecoverage,irritatingrivalssuchastheDailyTelegraph.EvenbeforetheteamhadfoundEverest,oneofthecommittee’spotentateswrotethesurveyor-generalofIndia,expressinghisfearsabout“unexpectedleakage,”andfingeringareporterfortheCalcuttaMorningPostasaparticularlydangeroussuspect.AkindredparanoiahaddictatedanoaththatalltheteammembershadbeenrequiredtosignbeforeleavingEngland,enjoiningthem“nottoholdanycommunicationwiththepressorwithanypressagencyorpublisher,ortodeliveranypubliclecture”withouttheapprovaloftheEverestCommittee.

Soamotleyassortmentofmountaineersandtravelers,alreadytornbyjealousiesanddisparateambitions,stumbledtowardEverestinthewrongseason.GeorgeBernardShawlatermemorablycharacterizedagroupportraitoftheteamaslooking“likeapicnicinConnemarasurprisedbyasnowstorm.”

Bymid-June,withthepartystillfarfromthemountain,withKellasdeadandRaeburnlaidlowbydiarrheaandinjuriesincurredintwicefallingoffhishorse,thenumberofablemountaineersleftontheexpeditionhaddwindledtotwo:MalloryandGuyBullock.ThispairvirtuallybythemselveswouldaccomplishwhatinthelongrunamountedtoabrilliantreconnaissanceofEverest.Duringthefollowingmonths,theothermembersputteredoffinvariousdirections,performingbotanicalandtopographicalmissionsthathadlittlebearingonfindingarouteupthemountain.

Asalways,Mallory’smoodswungwildlybetweengiddyenthusiasmandleadendisenchantment.Bythebeginningof1921,ashepreparedforEverest,nowthirty-fouryearsold,hehadreachedagloomycrossroadsinlife.HehadquithisteachingjobatCharterhouse,withnoclearnotionofwhattodonext.

Ideally,hewouldhavebecomeawriter,buthelackedconfidence,complainingtoRobertGravesinaletterfromshipboard,“Ican’tthinkIhavesufficienttalenttomakealife-workofwriting,thoughplentyofthemessuggestthemselvesaswantingtobewrittenabout.PerhapsIshallgetajobataprovincialuniversity.”Atthemoment,hewasreadingthatmasterpiecebyhisBloomsburyadmirer,QueenVictoria:nodoubtLyttonStrachey’ssardoniccommandofprosesetadauntingexampletoMalloryofwhatarealwritercoulddo.

OnJune13,MallorycaughthisfirstsightofEverest—like“aprodigiouswhitefangexcrescentfromthejawoftheworld,”ashewouldwriteintheexpeditionbook.Thedistantvisionwasdauntingintheextreme:inalettertoRuth,herecorded“themoststupendousridgesandappallingprecipicesthatIhaveeverseen….Allthetalkofeasysnowslopeisamyth.”YetwhilethesightintimidatedMallory,atthesametimeitcaptivatedhim.Theman’sobsessionwithEverestcanbesaidtodatefromthatfirstglimpse,stillfifty-sevenmilesawayfromthemountain.AshewroteRuth,duringthesubsequentdays,“Theproblemofitsgreatridgesandglaciersbegantotakeshapeandtohauntthemind,presentingitselfatoddmomentsandleadingtodefiniteplans.Wherecanonegoforanotherview,tounveilalittlemoreofthegreatmystery?”

PartofMallory’sgeniuswasadeeplyanalyticalgraspoftheshapeandstructureofmountains.Otherclimbersmightbecontenttostarewithfieldglassesatasingleaspectofthemountain,seekingroutes;Mallorywaseager,ineffect,tocreateathree-dimensionalmodelinhismind.Ashewroteintheofficialreport,“Ourreconnaissancemustaimat…acorrectunderstandingofthewholeformandstructureofthemountainandthedistributionofitsvariousparts;wemustdistinguishthevulnerableplacesinitsarmourandfinallypitourskillagainsttheobstacles.”

AsMalloryandBullocktrudgeduponesnow-struckvalleyafteranother,withthemonsoonnowinfullforce,thepowerofthatvisionarygoaldrovethemacrossasuccessionofbleaklandscapes.MallorydescribedonesuchclimeinMountEverest:TheReconnaissance:

Itwasadesolatescene,Isuppose;noflowersweretobeseennoranysignoflifebeyondsomestuntedgorsebushesonanearhillsideandafewpatchesofcoarsebrowngrass,andtheonlyhabitationsweredryinhumanruins;butwhateverelsewasdead,ourinterestwasalive.

ByJune25,MalloryandBullockhadreachedtheterminusoftheRongbukGlacier,themassiveicestreamthatdrainsthewholenorthsideofEverest.Foramonth,theindefatigableduowouldexploreapproaches,onlytobestymiedandpuzzledagainandagain.FewEuropeanshadyettraveledonanyofthecolossalHimalayanglaciers:usedtotheeasyhighwayssuchriversoficeformedintheAlps,thetwoBritishclimberswereseverelyfrustratedbythejumbledséracs,thecrevasse-riddledicefalls,andtheweirdicepinnacles,callednievespenitentes,thattheRongbukthrewintheirpath.Theglacierwas,Mallorywrote,“notaroadbutanobstacle”;and,“TheWhiteRabbithimselfwouldhavebeenbewilderedhere.”Partofthetime,themenhikedinsnowshoes,butevenso,inthesoggymonsoonconditionstheyoftencouldnotavoidwadingknee-deepthroughslushpools.

Allthewhile,Mallorykeptstaringatthemountain,analyzingit.Earlyon,hehaddecided,ashejottedinhisdiary,“LastsectionofEastarêteshouldgo.”Herewasapregnantobservation,foronthatlastsectionofwhatwouldcometobecalledthenortheastridge,MalloryandIrvinewouldvanishthreeyearshence.

Justasearly,Malloryrecognizedthatthekeytoreachingthenortheastridgewasgainingthe23,000-footsaddleofsnowandicethatheandBullocknamedtheChangLa,orNorthCol.TheapproachtothecolfromthemainRongbukGlacier,however,lookedimpossible.Forweeks,thetwomenreconnoitered,climbinglowerpeaksjusttoacclimatizeandtogainnewviewsofEverest,teachingtheir“coolies”(as

theycalledtheporters)therudimentsofmountaineering.

Inthecourseoftheseexplorations,themenclimbedtoanothercolonthewestofEverest,calledtheLhoLa.Fromhere,thetwobecamethefirstEuropeanstobeholdtheKhumbuGlacieranditsupperbasin,theWesternCwm(pronounced“Coom”),whichMallorynamed,slappingaWelshtermforanalpinebasinontoaHimalayanlandscape.TheKhumbuandtheWesternCwmwouldprovetheroutebywhichHillaryandTenzingwouldmakethefirstascentofEverest,thirty-twoyearslater.FromtheLhoLa,however,the1,500-footdroptotheKhumbuunfoldedasa“hopelessprecipice.”Thequestionwasmoot,inanyevent,foratthepass,themenstoodontheborderofTibetandNepal,andtheywereforbiddentoenterthelattercountry.

AlwaysMallory’seyewasfixedonthedottedlinehisimaginationhadalreadydrawnfromtheNorthColtothesummit.“WesawtheNorthColquiteclearlyto-day,”hetoldhisdiaryonJuly15,“andagainthewayupfromtheredoesnotlookdifficult.”

ThustheimmediatetaskofthereconnaissancewastoseeiftheNorthColcouldbegainedfromtheopposite,oreasternside.LaterMallory,thatgeographicalperfectionist,wouldcastigatehimselffornotdiscoveringin1921thattheEastRongbukGlacier,atributaryicestreamthatenterstheRongbukproperbyaV-shapedsidevalleytwoandahalfmilesabovetheterminus,wouldprovetheroyalroadtotheNorthCol.(VirtuallyallmodernexpeditionstoEverest’snorthside,includingSimonson’sin1999,haultheirloadsupasuccessionofcampsontheEastRongbuk,establishingCampIVontheNorthCol.)Butthatnarrow,V-shapedentryoftheEastRongbukintothemainglacierisalltooeasytomiss;andtheexistingRoyalGeographicalSocietymapsMallorywasusingarguedanentirelydifferentstructureofridgesonthenortheastsideofEverest.

TogaintheNorthCol,then,MalloryandBullockundertookaheroicendruntothenorthandeast,skirtingdozensofnamelesssubsidiarypeaks,untiltheycouldfindandascendtheKhartaGlacier.Beforetheycouldlaunchthateffort—thesecondgreatprongofthereconnaissance—duringabriefreunionwithteamleaderCharlesHoward-Bury,Malloryreceivedsomedevastatinginformation.Thephotographicplateshehadlaboredformorethanamonthtoexpose,luggingalargecameratodistantheights,wereallblank,forhehadbeeninsertingthembackwards.Oncemore,Mallory’schronicmechanicalineptitudehadtakenitstoll.This“hideouserror,”ashecalleditintheexpeditionreport,cameas“anextremelydepressingpieceofnews.”

Mallory’sattitudetowardthe“coolies”whowerehisonlysupportinthereconnaissance,andwithoutwhomitcouldnothavebeenundertaken,wasamixtureofsympatheticcuriosityandtheculturalcondescensionthatwasendemicinhisday.Recognizingtheimportanceofbeingabletospeaktheporters’ownlanguage,hesethimselftolearningTibetan.HesharedwiththemthepreciouschocolatesandnutshereceivedintheoccasionalparcelfromEnglandthatmadeitswaytoBaseCamp.Yet,ashewatchedtheporterswhomhehadtaughtthebasicsofice-craftapplytheirlessonsforthefirsttime,hewrylyconcluded,“Itwasnotaconvincingspectacle,astheymadetheirwayupwiththeungainlymovementsofbeginners.”Thesirdar,orheadporter,Mallorydismissedinexasperationas“awhey-facedtreacherousknave,whoseslyandcalculatedvillainy”(amatterofsellingfoodrationsforpersonalprofit)threatenedtowreckthereconnaissance.

ThereunionwithHoward-BuryandRaeburn,whohaddonelittletohelptheexpedition,onlyexasperatedMalloryfurther.“Ican’tgetovermydislikeofhim,”hewroteRuthoftheteamleader;andwithregardtoRaeburn,whohadarrivedgrizzledandweak,“WhenheisnotbeingaboreIfeelmovedtopity,butthatisnotoften.”Thehigh-strungMalloryhadevengrownirritatedwithBullock,hisfaithfulpartnerinthereconnaissance.“Wehadratherdriftedintothatcommonsuperficialattitudebetweentwopeoplewho

livealonetogether,”hewroteRuth—“competitiveandslightlyquarrelsome,eachlookingouttoseethathedoesn’tgetdonedowninsomesmallwaybytheother.”

InearlyAugust,MalloryandBullockworkedtheirwayuptheKhartaGlacier.Sopoorwaslocalknowledgeofthisterrainthattheteamstartedsouthwardonwhatwouldhavebeenawildgoosechase,luredbyalocaltribesman’sassertionthatChomolungma(“MotherGoddessoftheSnows”),theTibetannameforEverest,layfivedaysawayinthatdirection.Withhiskeensenseofdirection,Mallorygrewskeptical,andacross-examinationrevealedthatinlocalparlance,thereweretwoChomolungmas:thetribesmanhaddirectedthepartytowardMakalu,theworld’sfifth-highestmountain.

OnAugust7,Malloryfellill,succumbingtoa“wearinessbeyondmuscularfatigue.”Forseveraldays,Bullockandtheporterspushedahead,whileMallorytriedtorecuperate,lyinginhissleepingbag,agonizingoverthethoughtofBullockreachingtheNorthColwithouthim.Hisveeringspiritsplunged:atsuchmoments,hewrotelater,“Ihatedthethoughtofthisexpedition.”

ToMallory’sfurtherdismay,itturnedouttheKhartaGlacierdidnotheadontheslopesofEverestafterall:thepartywouldhavetofindandcrossanotherhighpasssimplytogettotheEastRongbukGlacier.Finallyinmid-August,buoyedbytheunexpectedadditionofanotherclimber,H.T.Morshead,whohadhithertobeenoffonalowlandsurveyingmission,arejuvenatedMalloryandthesteadyBullockcrestedtheLhakpaLa,at22,500feet.Atlasttheycouldsee,onlythreemilesaway,acrosseasyglacier,theslopesleadinguptotheNorthColfromtheeast.Theylookedclimbable.

BynowthemonsoonhungsoheavyontheHimalayathatitwassnowingfromeighttotenhoursaday.Onthisinterminableexpedition,itwouldturnouttobeamajoraccomplishmentsimplytoreachtheNorthCol,andthuspavethewayforatrueattemptinsomefutureyear.YetnowMallory’sspiritssoaredwildly,asheanticipatedmakinganassaultonthesummitinSeptember.

ItcanbearguedthatonallthreeEverestexpeditions,Malloryunderestimatedthemountain.Itwasacommonfoible:duringtheearlyyears,onecrackEuropeanmountaineerafteranothermisjudgedtheHimalayaingeneral.In1895,AlfredMummery,thefinestBritishclimberofthelastquarterofthenineteenthcentury,ageniusintheAlps,hadtriedtoclimb26,660-footNangaParbatwithonlytwoteammatesandapairofGurkhaporters.Fromthemountain,hejauntilywrotehiswife,“Idon’tthinktherewillbeanyseriousmountaineeringdifficultiesonNanga.Ifancytheascentwillbemainlyaquestionofendurance.”TreatingthemassivepeakasthoughitweremerelyaslightlyoutsizedversionofMontBlanc,MummeryvanishedwiththetwoGurkhasonareconnaissanceofthewestface.Theirbodieswereneverfound.NangaParbatwouldnotbeclimbeduntil1953.

AlmostneverduringsubsequentdecadeswouldaHimalayanmountainfalltothesameexpeditionthatfirstreconnoiteredit(thegloriousexceptionbeingtheFrenchonAnnapurnain1950).Inhismorejudiciousmoments,Malloryrecognizedhowweakthe1921partywas,howformidableEverest’sdefenses;butthenhewouldstareagainathisdottedlinefromtheNorthColtothesummitandimaginehimselfsailingpasteacheasyobstacle…

IntoppingtheLhakpaLa,thetrioofclimbershadfoundthekeytothemountain.Butnow,snowconditionsweresoatrociousthatthepartydarednotattemptthosethreemilesseparatingtheirfarthestpushfromtheNorthCol.Forafullmonth,theyplayedademoralizingwaitinggame.

Atlast,onSeptember16,theweatherchanged,asthemonsoonbegantopeterout.Inthemeantime,thefullteamhadfinallyassembledontheKhartaGlacier.MalloryorganizedacarrythatgotelevenloadsofsuppliestothetopofLhakpaLa.Fourdayslater,hesetoutwithBullockandEdwardWheeler,theexpedition’schiefsurveyor,tocrosstheEastRongbukandclimbtotheNorthCol.Bynow,ithadbeen

fourmonthssincethepartyhadsetoutfromDarjeelingonhorseback.

Allthroughtheselatterweeks,Mallory’smoodhadcharacteristicallyswungbetweenjoyanddespair.Inhislettershome,sometimestheexpeditionwas“athrillingbusiness,”atothers“afraud.”“Ourpresentjobistorubournosesagainsttheimpossible,”hewroteinadespondentmoment.Yetinahopefulone,heblithelypredicted,“Itisnowonlyaquestionofwaitingfortheweatherandorganizingourpushtothesummit.”

OnthemorningofSeptember24,Mallory,Bullock,Wheeler,andthreeportersgotalatestartfromtheLhakpaLa:onlyMalloryhadsleptwellthenightbefore.ThecrossingoftheEastRongbuk,however,andtheclimbtotheNorthCol,wasmostlyamatterof“straightforwardplugging,”withtheleadercuttingabout500stepsintheicejustbelowtheCol.Theyreachedthesaddle—thatprizedandelusivegoalMalloryhadbeengazingatforalmostthreemonths—at11:30A.M.

Theclimbhadbeeneasyenough,butnowthesixmenstoodfullyexposedtoabittergalethattoreacrossthegap:it“cameinfiercegustsatfrequentintervals,blowingupthepowderysnowinasuffocatingtourbillon.”Wheelerwasresoluteaboutturningaroundatonce;Bullock,thoughexhausted,knewhowmuchtheeffortmatteredtoMallory,andwaswillingtofollowhimalittlefarther.Afterashouteddiscussion,themenstaggeredafewfeeton,leaningagainstthegale,then“struggledbacktoshelter”ontheleesideofanicecliff.“Thewindhadsettledthequestion,”Mallorylaterwrote.Yethefeltinretrospectthathecouldhaveclimbedanother2,000verticalfeetthatday,windornowind.

Asitwas,Wheelercameclosetoseriousfrostbite,withhiscirculationrestoredincamponlybyMallory’srubbinghisfeetforhours;andBullocklaggedbehindonthedescent,stumblingintocamptwohoursafterhisfriends,completelyplayedout.

Thusendedthereconnaissanceof1921.AsthepartymeanderedbacktowardDarjeeling,Mallorywasfilledwithasenseoffailure.“Wecamebackwithoutaccident,notevenafrostbittentoe,”hereportedtoGeoffreyWinthropYoung,tryingtolookonthebrightside;butinthenextbreath,“Itwasapitifulpartyatthelast,notfittobeonamountainsideanywhere.”Youngwroteback,tellinghisprotégéthat“thisendoftheworldisonlyusingthewordsuccess,”andputtingMallory’sextraordinaryachievementintheperspectivethatposterityhassincegrantedit:“Icanassureyouthatthecolossaleffortofliftinganentirelyunsuitableparty,atthefirstattempt,onasinglepairofshoulders,notonlyontotherightlinebutwellupit,againsthopelessconditions,formsanepisodebyitselfinthehistoryofmountainexploration,andwillonlybethemoreappreciatedthemoretimegoeson.”

OnthevoyagebacktoEngland,Mallorywasburntoutandhomesick.“I’mtiredoftravellingandtravellers,”hewroteDavidPye.“WhatIwanttoseeisfacesIknow,andmyownsweethome;afterwards,thesolemnfacadesinPallMall,andperhapsBloomsburyinafog;andthenanEnglishriver,cattlegrazinginwesternmeadows.”

Therewasalreadytalkofanotherexpeditioninthespringof1922.ThelongsummerreconnaissancehadconvincedMallorythattheonlytimetogotoEverestwasinAprilandMay,beforethemonsoon.Healsojudgedthat“it’sbarelyworthwhiletryingagain…withouteightfirst-rateclimbers.”

Ofa1922assault,however,atthemomenthewantednopart.“Iwouldn’tgoagainnextyear…,”hewrotehissisterAvie,“forallthegoldinArabia.”

Asitwas,GeorgeMallorywouldspendonlythreemonthsathomebeforesettingoutonthesecondEverestexpedition.

DURINGTHOSETHREEMONTHS,MallorygavesomethirtylecturesonEverest,andhurriedlywrotesix

chaptersoftheofficialexpeditionbook.Themountainwasneverfarfromhismind,andashepennedthelastchapter,called“TheRoutetotheSummit,”offeringastep-by-steplogisticalbriefforsuccessonEverest,theobsessionreclaimedhim.Atonlythirty-five,Mallorywasbeginningtoworrythathewaspasthisclimbingprime.Andthatvision,oftherelativelyeasystagesbywhichaclimbermightangleupthenorthfacetothenortheastshoulder,thenalongtheridgetothesummit,hauntedhisdomestichours.

Bylatewinter,theEverestCommitteehadputtogetherateamforthepre-monsoonseasonof1922.Oncemorethepunditsoptedforleaderslongintoothandshortontechnicalability.GeneralCharlesBruce,whohadservedmuchofhiscareerinthearmyinIndia,wasmadeleader,attheageoffifty-six.ColonelEdwardStrutt,whowasforty-eight,alsoanex-soldier,wasdraftedasclimbingleader.(Inthe1930s,StruttwouldbecomeinfamousasthecurmudgeonlyspokesmanforawholesaleBritishretreatintoclimbingconservatism,ashedeploredtheboldtechnicalbreakthroughsbeingpromulgatedbyGermans,Austrians,andItaliansintheAlps,whichculminatedinthefirstascentofthenorthfaceoftheEigerin1938.)

Alsoonboard,andwellpasthissaladdays,wasTomLongstaff,whoheldtherecordforthehighestsummityetattained,whenhehadtoppedouton23,360-footTrisul,intheGarhwalHimalaya,in1907.(Nohigherpeakwouldbeclimbedforthenexttwenty-oneyears.)

Inviewofhisbrilliantperformancetheyearbefore,itmayseemoddthatMallorywasnotmadeclimbingleaderin1922.Knowledgeoftheman’sabsentmindednessseemstohavedimmedhisprospectsforanofficialleadershipposition.AsLongstaffmordantlywrotetoacolleagueaftertheexpedition,“Malloryisaverygoodstoutheartedbaby,butquiteunfittobeplacedinchargeofanything,includinghimself.”

AmongtheyoungerteammemberswereTeddyNortonandHowardSomervell,whowouldprovesostaunchin1924,andGeoffreyBruce,thegeneral’sgamebutinexperiencednephew.RoundingoutthepartywasGeorgeFinch,aremarkableclimberwhowouldprovetheequalofMalloryonthis,hisonlyshotatEverest.Finchhadbeenrejectedonspuriousmedicalgroundsin1921,andhewouldlatersoalienatetheEverestCommitteeastoprecludeanychanceofbeinginvitedin1924.ChroniclersattributemuchofFinch’sdifficultiestoavaguesenseonthecommittee’spartthathehadtooheartilyembracedthemoreambitiousEuropeanidealsofclimbingintheAlps;inaddition,FinchwasnotamemberoftheAlpineClub,and,havingbeeneducatedinSwitzerland,hadthusbydefinitionnotattendedthe“right”schools.

Inthemonthsleadinguptothe1922expedition,thegreatdebatewasovertheuseofbottledoxygen.Finch,aborntinkerer,wasthemostavidproponentofusinggas;Mallory,withhisdistrustofallthingsmechanical,themostardentopponent,deridingwhathecalledthe“damnableheresy”ofcertainphysiologistswhotheorizedthathumanswouldneverascendEverestwithoutsupplementaryoxygen.

Allinall,the1922partywasmanytimesstrongerthantheragtagteamof1921.Andatfirst,everythingwentlikeclockwork.MalloryandBullock’s1921reconnaissancehadbeensothoroughthatithadleftonlyonesideofEverestunexplored—thesouthernapproaches,rangingoutofforbiddenNepal.Mallory’sanalysisofthepossibleroutesontheotherthreesideswassopenetratingthatthe1922partyneededtowastenofurthertimeinexploration.

MovingloadsandcampssteadilyuptheEastRongbukGlacier,withanentouragenotonlyofTibetanportersbutofSherpasfromNepal,theteamreachedtheNorthColbyMay13.Onlysixdayslater,allthenecessarysupplieswerestockedatCampIV,readyforapairofsummitpushes.Atleasttwoweeksofgoodweather,andmaybethree,loomedbeforethemonsoonwouldclosedownthemountain.

TheplancalledforMallory,Somervell,H.T.Morshead,andNortontomakeafirstattemptwithout

oxygen,tobefollowed,iftheywereunsuccessful,byFinchandGeoffreyBrucebreathingbottledgas.OnMay20,thefirstquartetsetoutwithportersfromtheNorthColat7:30A.M.Everysteptheyclimbedprobedgroundwherenoonehadeverbeen.

Atoncethecoldassailedallfourmen.ModernclimbershavelongbeendumbfoundedoncontemplatingtheprimitivegearandclothingwithwhichMalloryandhispartnersassaultedEverestinthe1920s.ThesenseoftheinadequacyofthatequipagewasperhapsthesinglemostpowerfulperceptionthatstruckthefiveclimbersonMay1,1999,whentheybeheldMallory’sbodyat26,700feet.ItisthusworthpausingtonotethepassageinTheAssaultonMountEverest,1922,inwhichMallorynarratesthebreakthefourmentookat24,200feettoputonspareclothesandtrytogetwarm:

Formypart,Iaddedalightshetland“woolly”andathinsilkshirttowhatIwaswearingbeforeundermycloselywovencottoncoat.Asthisoutergarment,withknickerstomatch,waspracticallywindproof,andasilkshirttooisafurtherprotectionagainstwind,withthesetwoextralayersIfearednocoldwewerelikelytomeet.Morshead,ifIrememberright,troubledhimselfnomoreatthistimethantowrapawoollenscarfroundhisneck.

Ingeneral,Mallory’spassagesinthe1922expeditionbookarefullofdetailsthat,inlightofwhatcametopasstwoyearslater,seemeerilytoforeshadowthegreatdramaof1924.Onthewayupintotheunknownthatdayin1922,thefourmencametoadiceyslopewherecramponswouldhavebeenuseful.(Modernclimberscarryandusuallywearcramponsallthewaytothesummit.)YetthemenhadlefttheirsattheNorthCol.ExplainsMallory,“Wesorelyneededthemnow.Andyetwehadbeenrighttoleavethembehind;forwiththeirstrapsbindingtightlyaroundourbootsweshouldnothavehadthesmallestchanceofpreservingourtoesfromfrostbite.”(TheleatherbootsofMallory’sdayweresoftandpliable.Modernclimbersuseplasticornylondoublebootssostiffthattightenedstrapsposenocirculationproblem.)Thefactthat,in1924,MalloryandIrvineagainlefttheircramponsattheNorthColbearscruciallyontheirfate.

Similarly,ashedescribedtheroutetothesummithehadscoutedformonthsin1921,Malloryworriedaloud,intheexpeditionbook,about“thepossibilityofturningorofclimbingdirectcertainprominentobstacles”alongthesummitridge.Mostprominentofallsuchobstacleswouldprovetobetheninety-foot-tallSecondStep,at28,230feet.ClimbinghigheronMay20,Mallorycouldseethatstepasanunmistakablebumpontheskylinefarabovehim.

Notonlythecoldbotheredthemen;thethinairmadethemfuzzy-brained.Inaclumsymoment,theropedislodgedNorton’spack,whichhehadlaidinhislapduringareststop.InMallory’swords:

Hewasunprepared,madeadesperategrab,andmissedit.Slowlytheround,softthinggatheredmomentumfromitsrotation,thefirstlittleleapsdownfromoneledgetoanothergrewtoexcitedandmagnificentbounds,andthepreciousburdenvanishedfromsight.

Withthepackwaslostcriticalextraclothing.

At2:00P.M.,around25,000feet,thetiredmenstoppedtopitchcamp.Therewasnolevelshelf,andtheclimberswastedhourspilingupstonestomaketentplatforms,onlytoabandononesiteafteranother.Eversince1922,climbersonthenorthsidehavehadthegreatesttroubleestablishingCampV;evenforSimonson’spartyin1999,thiswasthecamptheclimbersdreaded,knowinganighttheremeantastruggletocatchanysleep.

Atlastthemengottwotentsdroopilypitched,theirfloorssoslopingthattheupperclimberineachtent

rolledallnightontopofthelower.Mallorytookstockofhiscomrades.WorstoffwasMorshead,whosefingersandtoeswereinthefirststagesofseriousfrostbite.ThoughMorsheadmadenocomplaint,“Hewasobligedtoliedownwhenwereachedourcampandwasevidentlyunwell.”Malloryhimselfhadfrost-nippedhisfingersashecutstepsuptheslopewherethemencouldhaveeasilywalkedincrampons,andNortonhadafrostbittenear.

Afteranearlysleeplessnight,themensetoutat8:00A.M.onthetwenty-first,stillhopefulofreachingthesummit.Atonce,thedebilitatedMorsheadrealizedhecouldgonofarther:hepleadedthathisteammatescontinue,whileherestedthroughthedayincamp.Thecoldwasevenworsethanthedaybefore;Malloryhadtostop,takeoffoneboot,andletNortonrubhisfootbackintofeeling.Thegoing,acrossdownward-tiltingplatesofdarkshale,wasmademoretreacherousbyfourtoeightinchesoffreshsnow.

Bymidday,Malloryknewthatheandhispartnersweregoingtooslowly.Attheirverybest,theywerecapableofgainingonly400verticalfeetanhour(intheAlps,Mallorywasusedtoclimbing1,500feetperhourwithoutbreakingaserioussweat).Theirprogresswouldonlyslowastheairgotthinner.Asimple“arithmeticalcalculation”madeitplainthatnightwouldfallbeforethemencouldreachthesummit.

Resolvingtoturnaroundat2:15P.M.,themenacceptedthemountain’svictory.Intheexpeditionnarrative,Malloryseemsgallantlyresignedtodefeat:“WewerepreparedtoleaveittobravermentoclimbMountEverestbynight.”

Again,howthosewordsforeshadow!Forin1924,inalllikelihood,MalloryandIrvinebecamethosebravermen.

Attheirhighpoint,thethreemenateasmalllunchofchocolate,mintcake,raisins,andprunes;oneofthem(whoseidentityMallorycoylycamouflagesinTheAssaultonMountEverest)producedapocketflaskofbrandy,fromwhicheachofthemtookarestorativenip.Thentheystarteddown.

Withabarometerreadingadjustedbyatheodoliteobservation,Malloryfixedhishighpointat26,985feet.InFirstonEverest:TheMysteryofMallory&Irvine,AudreySalkeldandTomHolzelarguecogentlythatthetruealtitudethethreemenreachedonJune21wasonlyabout26,000feet.Nomatter:itwasthehighestanyonehadyetbeenonearth.

Theprudenceoftheirturnaroundwouldemergelatethatafternoon.By4:00P.M.,Norton,Somervell,andMalloryhadregainedCampV.ThereMorsheaddeclaredhewasfeelingwell.Thefourmenropedtogether,thenheadeddownthe2,000feettowardCampIVontheNorthCol.Mallorytookthelead,for,asthestrongestofthefourmen,hereadilyassumedthetiringtaskofcuttingstepsforhispartners(amuchmoreawkwardtaskgoingdownthanascending).

SuddenlyMorshead,comingthirdontherope,slippedonasteepslope.HisfallpulledanunpreparedNorton,lastontherope,outofhissteps,andthetwoofthempulledSomervellloose.Thethreeplungedhelplesstowardthevoid3,500feetabovetheEastRongbukGlacier.

Onthevergeofcuttingastep,Malloryhadtimeonlytodrivethepickofhisaxeintothesnowandpasstheropeoveritshead,andtimetoanticipateoneoftwooutcomes.Asheputitintheexpeditionbook,“Inninety-ninecasesoutofahundredeitherthebelaywillgiveortheropewillbreak.”Miraculously,neitherhappenednow.Thepullcamenotinonetremendousjerk,butaccordion-fashion,aseachfallingclimberabsorbedthepulloftheonebelow.Mallorybelayedwithgrimresolve:therope“grippedthemetallikeahawseronabollard,”butthepickheld.

Almostneverinmountaineeringhistoryhasonemanheldthreefallingcompanionswithnothingmore

solidthananiceaxebelay.Therareinstanceshavebecomelegendarydeeds.Mallory’sastoundingbelayhasnot—inpartbecausehewasexcruciatinglymodestabouttheaccident.InTheAssaultonMountEverest,henotonlyavoidedidentifyingthemanwhoslipped,hedisguisedhisownidentityasthemiraclebelayer.Thefourclimbersweretaggedonlyas“thethirdman,”“theleader,”etc.OnlyinalettertoRuthdidMallorymakeclearwhoplayedwhichrole.Eventhen,heblamedhimselfasmuchashisteammates:“Ihadn’trealisedthenhowshakyMorsheadwasandhadcutratherpoorsteps.”

Thoughnoonewashurtintheall-but-fatalfall,astheystaggeredintoCampIV,at11:30P.M.,Morsheadwasravagedwithexhaustion.Hehadbeentakingten-minuterestsafterfeebletwo-minuteburstsofclumpingdownward,untilNortonandMalloryhadtotaketurnsproppinghimupwithashoulderforhisarmandahandaroundhiswaist,allbutdoinghiswalkingforhim.

BythetimethefourmenmadeitbacktoCampIIIthenextday,Morshead’sfingershadswollenandturnedblackwithfrostbite.Themenhadalsobecomeseverelydehydrated.Somervellconfessedtodowningseventeenmugsfuloftea;Malloryguessedthemanhaddrunkevenmore.

TWODAYSLATER,onMay24,GeorgeFinchsetoutonasecondattempt,usingoxygen.Becauseofthephysicalconditionsofalltheotherteammembers,hehadonlyonechoiceforpartner—thepluckyGeoffreyBruce,whohadclimbednorealmountainsbeforeEverest.

Nonetheless,thetwomensetoutfullofoptimism,tellingeachother,“Ofcourse,weshallgettothetop.”Finchbelievedoxygenwouldmakeallthedifference.

Intheend,thepair’sstruggleupthenorthfaceturnedintoafightfortheirlives.AtCampV,theyheldontotheirtentallnightwhileagaletriedtotearthemfromthemountainside.Theywaitedoutthenextday,asthestormdispersed,then,withlittlefoodorwaterleft,stretchedtheirsortieintoathirddayastheyheadedup.Startingat6:30A.M.,theypassedthehighpointofMallory,Norton,andSomervellandadded500feettotheworldaltituderecord.Oxygenhadmadethedifference,for,thankstothestorm,FinchandBrucewerefarmorewornoutastheylaunchedtheirsummitattemptthantheirfourteammateshadbeenontheirownthrustonMay20.

ThechoicetoturnaroundwasagonizingforFinch,butitwasascannyadecisionasMallory’shadbeen.AsFinchwroteintheexpeditionbook,“Iknewthatifweweretopersistinclimbingon,evenifonlyforanother500feet,weshouldnotbothgetbackalive.”Intheend,Bruce’sfeetweresobadlyfrostbittenthathehadtobesledgedpartofthewaydownfromtheNorthCol.

FinchandBruce’sgutsypushnotonlysetthenewaltituderecord,toacertainextentiteclipsedthelusterofNorton,Somervell,andMallory’sbraveattemptfourdaysbefore.AnditconvincedMalloryforthefirsttimethatbottledoxygen,farfroma“damnableheresy,”mightbethekeytoclimbingEverest.

ByJune1,the1922expeditionhadaccomplishedextraordinarythings,reaching26,500feetandmakingknownforthefirsttimethesecretsoftheuppernorthface.Theteamhadexercisedsuchhubrisatthecostofnothingworsethansomecasesoffrostbite(Morshead,theworstafflicted,wouldloseonetoeandsixfingertips).Hadtheexpeditionnowpackedupandgonehome,asmostofitsmemberswereinclinedtodo,theventurewouldhavebeenhailedinEnglandasagrandsuccess.

Butfatewasnottoletthe1922partyoffsoeasily.AsMayturnedtoJune,andstillthemonsoondelayeditsarrival,Mallory’sobsessionturnedhisthoughtsupwardoncemore.Hetalkedhisteammatesintoathird,last-ditchattempt.

Asitwas,mostofthemweretooworndowneventomakeanotherstab.Finchgamelysetout,but,unrecoveredfromhisordealofMay24-26,tossedinthetowelatCampI.

OnJune7,Mallory,Somervell,andteammateColinCrawfordledfourteenportersuptowardtheNorthCol.Anabundanceofnewsnowhadblanketedtheslope,butMalloryfoundtheconditionsidealforstep-kicking.Asthepartynearedthecrest,Somervellledupagentlecorridor.WroteMallory,“Wewerestartledbyanominoussound,sharp,arresting,violent,andyetsomehowsoftlikeanexplosionofuntampedgunpowder.Ihadneverbeforeonamountain-sideheardsuchasound;butallofus,Iimagine,knewinstinctivelywhatitmeant.”

Fromahundredfeetabovetheparty,anavalanchehadbrokenloose.ThethreeEnglishmen,highestontheslope,andtheportersnearestthemweresweptofftheirfeetandknockedashortdistancedowntheslope,butcametorestanddugthemselvesout.Theporterslowerontheslopewerecaughtintheavalancheandhurledoveraforty-tosixty-footicecliff.Theirteammatesscrambleddowntheslopeandfranticallydugintheavalanchedebrisbelowthecliff.Sixporterswerefounddead,morelikelyfromtheimpactofthefallthanbysmotheringunderthesnow.Thebodyofaseventhwasneverfound.

Overcomewithsorrow,thetensurvivorsstumbleddowntoCampIII.MallorywasstruckbytheSherpas’forbearanceinthistragedy:

Thesurvivingporterswhohadlosttheirfriendsorbrothersbehavedwithdignity,makingnonoisyparadeofthegrieftheyfelt.Weaskedthemwhethertheywishedtogoupandbringdownthebodiesfororderlyburial.Theypreferredtoleavethemwheretheywere.

Astheteamtrudgedoutfromthemountain,HowardSomervellagonized,“Why,oh,whycouldnotoneofusBritishershavesharedtheirfate?”TheblamefortheaccidentwasloadedontoMallory’sshoulders,notonlyforpushingthelateattempt,butbecausehehadapproachedtheNorthColindubioussnowconditions.TomLongstaff,whohadalreadyleftBaseCampforhomewhentheaccidentoccurred,wasunsparing.“ToattemptsuchapassageintheHimalayaafternewsnowisidiotic,”hewroteacolleaguetwomonthslater.

Intheexpeditionnarrative,Mallorypainfullyretracedhisparty’sstepstowardthedisaster,wonderingoutloudwhetherheoughttohaverecognizedthedanger.“Moreexperience,moreknowledgemightperhapshavewarnedusnottogothere,”hewrote,bewildered.“Onenevercanknowenoughaboutsnow.”

Mallorydidnothing,however,toshirkhisresponsibility,writingGeoffreyWinthropYoung,“AndI’mtoblame….Doyouknowthatsickeningfeelingthatonecan’tgobackandhaveitundone…?”Fortherestofhisshortenedlife,heharboredablackpoolofguiltaboutthecatastrophe.ClareMillikanbelievesthatthechiefreasonMallorywentbacktoEverestin1924wastheideathatsuccessmightsomehowmitigatethetragedyhehadbroughtuponthesevenfaithfulporters.

MALLORY’SETERNALFRIENDANDMENTOR,GeoffreyWinthropYoung,triedtogentlehisreturn,insistingtheblamefortheaccidentcouldnotbelaidonanyman,buton“thatshadowofhuge,dangerous‘chance,’”andremindinghim,“Youtookyourfullshare,aleadingshare,intherisk.Inthewarwehadtodoworse:wehadtoordermenintodangerattimeswhenwecouldnotshareit.”

AllthisgaveMalloryfaintcomfort.Athome,hebroodedabouttheexpedition,evenashecastaboutlookingforanewjob.Intheinterim,heundertookathree-monthtourofAmerica,lecturingonEverest.Thetourwasafinancialfailure,MallorydislikedmostofwhathesawintheUnitedStates,andhewashomesickforRuthandhischildren.Clarewasnowseven,Beridgesix,Johnonlytwo.SinceClarehadbeenborn,thankstothewarandEverest,Malloryhadbeenhomelessthanhalfherdays.

Inthespringof1923,MallorylandedajobteachinghistorytoworkingmenandwomeninCambridge

University’sextensionschool.Heplungedintothisnewprofessionwithenthusiasm,commutingbetweenCambridgeandthefamilyhomeinHolt.Duringthesemonths,hisrelationshipwithRuthwasstrained.Asevidence,wehaveonlycertainambiguousphrasesintheletters.Yetthebedrockloyaltyofeachfortheotherwasnotseriouslyshaken.InOctober1923,hemovedhisfamilytoCambridge;there,inHerschelHouse,heandRuthsetoutwithawilltofurnishandbeautifytheidealdomicile.

EverestwasneverfarfromMallory’sthoughts.Onceagain,hehadbeenwritingchaptersfortheofficialexpeditionbook.AndtheverylectureshegaveinAmericawerepredicatedonexplainingtotheuninitiatedtheappealoftryingtoreachthehighestpointonearth,fromthefamous“Becauseitisthere”quiptomoreextended—ifequallygnomic—rationales,suchastheselinesfromoneofhisAmericanspeeches:

IsupposewegotoMountEverest,grantedtheopportunity,because—inaword—wecan’thelpit.Or,tostatethematterratherdifferently,becausewearemountaineers….Torefusetheadventureistoruntheriskofdryinguplikeapeainitsshell.

Inathoughtfulunpublishedessayhewroteaboutthistime,called“MenandMountains:TheGambler,”Malloryfacedsquarelythequestionofdangerandriskinthemountains.Oncemore,hiswordsseemeerilytoforeshadowthefuture:

Itisclearthatthestake[themountaineer]riskstoloseisagreatonewithhim:itisamatteroflifeanddeath….Towinthegamehehasfirsttoreachthemountain’ssummit—but,further,hehastodescendinsafety.Themoredifficultthewayandthemorenumerousthedangers,thegreaterishisvictory.

Inclosing,MallorygrappledwiththeinevitabilityofdisasterssuchastheonethathadbefallenhimbelowtheNorthCol:“ButwhenIsaythatoursportisahazardousone,Idonotmeanthatwhenweclimbmountainsthereisalargechancethatweshallbekilled,butthatwearesurroundedbydangerswhichwillkillusifweletthem.”

ThatBritishmountaineerswouldreturntoEverest,ifnotin1923,theninthespringof1924,hadbecomeaforegoneconclusion.Andforallhisambivalence,itseemsinretrospectinevitablethatMallorywouldjointheexpedition.Themountainhadbecomehisdestiny.

Onlymonthsafterhehadtakenhisuniversityextensionjob,heaskedCambridgetogivehimhalfayear’sleaveonhalfpay;hisalmamaterwasonlytoogladtocomply.YetasMalloryfacedMountEverestforthethirdtime,itwasnotwiththejoyousanticipationof1921or’22,butratherwithadarkfatalism.TohisCambridgeandBloomsburyfriendGeoffreyKeynes,heconfidedwhathedarednottellRuth:“Thisisgoingtobemorelikewarthanmountaineering.Idon’texpecttocomeback.”

5Rescue

CA

ITWASN’TUNTIL9:00P.M.onMay8thattheUkrainianshighonthemountain,atthetopoftheFirstStep,sentouttheirdistresscallovertheradio.Wedidn’tmonitorthecalldirectlyourselves.AtBaseCamp,theleaderoftheUkrainianexpedition,ValentynSimonenko,wouldcomebyourtentseverysooftentoaskhowthingsweregoing.Asthedayworeon,hegotmoreandmoreconcernedabouthisteammates.Thenhereceivedthecallonhishandheldradio,andhetolduswhathadtranspired.

TheUkrainiansweregoodclimbers—fullprofessionals,totheextentthatonecanbeaprofessionalclimberinUkraine.Theyweredeterminedtogotothetopwithoutoxygen.Idon’tmeantosecond-guessthem,butthatdecisioninevitablycuttheirmarginofsafety.Withoutoxygen,simplethingsliketyingknots,riggingbelays,andperforminglittlebitsoftechnicalclimbingallbecomemuchmoredifficult.

Comparedtous,theUkrainianshadaveryrigidwayofclimbing.Tendaysbeforehand,theytoldus,“We’regoingtothesummitonMay8.”Theyhadplannedtheirsummitpushbasedonalogisticalpyramid,withclimbersandsuppliesmovingfromcamptocampbyapredeterminedschedule.WhenMay8turnedouttobetheworstdayinthelastmonth,theydidn’tseemtohavetheflexibilitytochangetheirplans.

ThethreeclimbersgoingforthesummitthatdaywereSlava,VasilCopitko,andVolodymyrGorbach.Theygottothetopabout1:30P.M.,whichwasgoodtime,butthentheirproblemsbegantomultiplyonthedescent,asthestormintensified.Ittookthemmuchlongertogodownthantheyanticipated.Intheend,onlySlava—who’sanamazinglystrongclimber—madeitbacktoCampVI.Somewhereabovehim,VasilandVolodhadstoppedtospendthenightout.ItwasSlavawhomadethe9:00P.M.radiocallfromtheFirstStep.

Youdon’tusuallybivouacaboveCampVIwithoutseriousconsequences.OncewelearnedthatVolodandVasilhadn’tmadeitbacktocamp,weknewtheywerealmostcertainlyintrouble.

IgivetheUkrainianscreditforhavingotherteammatesatCampV,readytogototheassistanceofthesummitclimbers.Byevening,theweatherhadcleared,butitwasverywindyuphigh.Windmakesahugedifference.Youcanbefit,wellhydrated,wellfed,andmovingefficiently,butthewindwilltakewhateverstrengthyouhaverightoutofyou.

OnMay9,asthestormcleared,wemovedonuptoABC,tobereadytotakeourpartinwhateverrescuethesituationcalledfor.Inthemorning,SlavaclimbedbackupfromCampVItolookforhispartners.HefoundVolodaloneneartheFirstStep,inreallybadshape,probablyalreadysufferingseverefrostbite.Volod’sstorywasthatthepreviousevening,hejustsatdownandtriedtogetthroughthenight,becauseitwasdark,hewasterriblycold,andhewasexhausted.ButVasildecidedtocontinuethedescentaloneinthedark.Thatwasstillaplausibleoption,untilhisheadlampwentout.Thentheroute-finding—especiallyattheexitcracks,wherethenortheastridgemergeswiththeYellowBand—wouldhavebecomeextremelyproblematic.

SlavagotVolodmotivatedandshepherdedhimdowntoCampVI.Topullthisoff,stillwithoutoxygen,thedayaftersummitting,andnotincuranyfrostbitehimself,makesSlava’sperformanceoneofthemostphenomenalI’veeverseeninthemountains.There’snoquestionhesavedVolod’slife.Butastheydescended,theysawnosignofVasil.

Oneoftheclassicmistakesinhigh-altitudeclimbingistoseparate,asVasilandVoloddid.LookatalltheaccidentsonDenaliovertheyears—almosteverytimeapartyseparatesuphigh,disasterstrikes.Idon’tknowwhetherthetwomenreallymadeacalculateddecision.Butwhenyouseparatelikethat,allofasuddenyougofrombeingabletocareforsomeoneelse,beingpartofateam,tofocusingonyourownwell-being.

SlavagotVoloddowntoCampVI,wherehespentthenightofMay9.TwootherteammatesclimbeduptoVI,tohelpout.Volod’scondition,inthemeantime,hadgottenworse.Hecouldnolongerwalkunderhisownpower.SoonMay10,histeammatesandsomeSherpasfromanexpeditionofGeorgianclimbersmadealittleseatlikebasketoutofarope,tocarryVolodin.Theycarriedhimthefull3,000feetdowntotheNorthCol,twomenoneithersideofhim,rotatingthejob—anothersuperhumaneffort.

Meanwhile,RussellBrice,theexperiencedNewZealandguide,wasorganizingthefurtherrescueeffortfromtheNorthCol.Hedesignatedus,theAmericans,tobeinchargeofloweringVoloddownthesteepiceslopesbelowtheNorthCol,muchmoretechnicalterrainthanthenorthfacefromVIdowntoIV.Bricechoseus,Isuspect,becausewehadthemostcollectiveexperienceinrescuework.

SimoreportedonMountainZonethat“someexpeditionshavedonatedtheiroxygenandtheirSherpasandotherexpeditionshaverefusedtohelpatall.OnegroupofSherpasdemanded$200perpersontohelpwiththerescue.”Personally,Ididn’twitnessanyteamrefusingtohelporSherpasdemandingcash,butthatwasthescuttlebutt.AsSimowrote,anemergencylikeVolod’sdoesindeed“bringoutthebestandworst”intheclimberscaughtupontheperipheryofit.

BytheafternoonofMay10,AndyPolitz,JakeNorton,TapRichards,andIhadclimbeduptotheNorthColtohelp.BecausethecarrydownfromVIhadtakensolong,Voloddidn’tarriveuntil10:30atnight.Werealizedweweregoingtohavetomakeatriagecall,dependingontheUkrainian’scondition.CouldheaffordtospendthenightatCampIV,thengodownthenextday?Orwashiscasesocriticalwehadtotakehimdownrightaway,inthenight?

Ithadbeensnowingsporadically;nowitwasdarkandcold.WebroughtVolodintoourcooktent,gavehimsomeoxygenandanintramuscularshotofdexamethasone,apowerfulstimulant.Hewasonthevergeofbeingcomatose,withapulseofaround60andadangerouslylowbloodpressureof60over20.Andhewashowlingwithpain.Hecouldjustbarelytalktooneofhisteammates.SomebodysaidVolod’sfeetwerefrostbittenuptotheknees,butthatmayhavebeenanexaggeration.

Itbecameobviousthatwehadtogethimdowninthenight.ThefourofushadeverythingorganizedbythetimeVolodarrived.Inarescueoperationlikethis,onepersonhastotakechargeanddecidehowtorigit,thenbethepointmanwhocallstheshots.Thisway,it’ssimplymoreefficient.

DR

ONTHE1999MALLORY&IRVINERESEARCHEXPEDITION,touseitsofficialtitle,therewereanumberofverystrongclimbers.AndyPolitz,EricSimonson,andDaveHahnhadallclimbedEverestbefore.Theywerealsoveteransofdozensofsearch-and-rescuemissions.

YetbyMay10,ithadbecomecleartothemthatthestrongestmountaineerontheteamwasConradAnker—eventhoughhehadneverbeenhigherthan24,000feetbefore.Mostoftheothermemberswere

professionalguides.Conradhaddonesomeguiding,buthadpurposelyturnedhisbackonthatmodusvivendi.Atthirty-six,nearlytwodecadesafterhehadstartedtoclimb,whatmotivatedhimaboveallelsewasthechancetoputupdifficultnewroutesonlittle-knownmountainsamongtheremoterangesoftheworld.

Bythespringof1999,ConradAnkerwasnohouseholdnameontheAmericanoutdoorscene.HemadehislivingprincipallyasasponsoredclimberfortheNorthFace,theequipmentfirmthathadpioneeredthepractice—novelintheU.S.atthetime,thoughcommoninEurope—ofpayingtop-notchmountaineersaregularsalarytodesignandendorseNorthFaceproducts,schmoozewithclients,makeappearancesatretailstores,andclimbatthehighestleveltherestofthetime.

WithintheNorthFacestableofsponsoredathletes,aratherkeenrivalryattimesprevailed.Tothiscompetition,Ankerseemedoblivious.Meanwhile,asherackeduponesterlingcoupinthemountainsafteranother,celebratinghisdeedsonlyintheoccasionalunderstatednoteorarticleintheAmericanAlpineJournal,hisreputationamongthecognoscentigrew.By1999,hewasrecognizedasoneofthefinestthreeorfourexploratorymountaineersinAmerica.

ThoughhespendsmostofhisdowntimeinTelluride,Colorado,Conrad’sheartstillresidesinthehouseinBigOakFlat,California(intheGoldRushcountry,justwestofYosemiteValley),wherehisparentslive.Hismother,Helga,isGerman,hisfather,Wally,anAmericanofmixedGermanandScotch-Irishdescent.Despitehisvagabondage,Conradremainsveryclosetohisparents,whomhecalls“mybestfriends.”

“MymotherlikestosaythatIbeganclimbinginthewomb,”saysConrad—becausewhileshewaspregnantwithhim,herthirdchild,sheandherhusbandhikedtherimofYosemite.Asachild,Conradtaggedalongonextendedback-packingtripswithhisfamily.Hefeelstodaythatthoseoutingsgavehimasolidgroundingasamountaineer.“Nowadaysalotofpeoplecometothesportbytraininginaclimbinggym,”hesays.“Theymayknowhowtopullupanoverhang,buttheydon’tknowwhatanafternooncloudburstcandotoyouifyoudon’tpitchatarp.Ilearnedthatataripeyoungage.”

Despitehisapprenticeshipinbackpacking,Conraddidnotbegintorock-climbuntiltherelativelylateageofeighteen.Heshowedgreatpromisefromthestart,leadingpitchesof5.7difficulty(onascalerangingfrom5.0to5.14)insneakersonlyweeksafterhefirsttiedontoarope.HisfirstexpeditionwasanattemptonMountRobson,themajesticanddangerouspeakintheCanadianRockies:“Wefailedmiserably.”

In1987,theAmericanAlpineClubgaveConrada$400YoungClimber’sGranttopursueanexpeditiontotheKichatnaSpires,arguablyAlaska’smostjaggedanddauntinglow-altitudemountains.Withthreecompanions,hemadeafive-dayfirstascentofthesoutheastfaceofGurneyPeak,thusenteringtheeliteofAmericanmountaineerscapableofpullingoffcutting-edgeclimbsinmajor,bad-weatherranges.

Meanwhile,Ankerdesultorilypursuedhiseducation,finallygraduatingfromtheUniversityofUtahattheageoftwenty-six,withadegreeincommercialrecreation—“basicallyhotelandresortmanagement,”heexplains.“Ididn’tgostraightthrough.Itookeveryspringoffforanexpedition,andIworkedtohelppayforcollege.”

Likemostpassionateclimbers,Conradinhistwentieschosejobsnotwithaviewtowardcareerpotential,butaccordingtohowmuchfreedomtheygavehimtotakeoffatthedropofahat—“anything,”heclarifies,“thatIcouldworkat,saveupsomemoney,thenquittogoclimbing.”Inthisfashion,hepaidthebillsforfiveyearsbyworkingconstruction.Duringcollege,hehadtendedthecounterattheNorthFacestoreinSaltLakeCity,sellingcarabinersandGore-Texjackets—hisinitialconnectionwiththe

companythatwouldlaterpayhimtoclimb.

Abriefsortieintoentrepreneurship—withaclimbingbuddy,ConradstartedAlfWear,atwo-manfirmpeddlingfleecehatsandrivershorts—lefthimdissatisfied.Hecreditshisfather,abankexaminer,withgivinghimacrucialpush.“Myfathertoldmetogoclimbing,tomakethemostofit,becauseyoucanalwayssellhatswhenyou’resixty-five.SoIsoldthecompanyfor$10,000,whichseemedlikebigbucksatthetime.”

Freedtopursuehispassion,Conraddevelopedintonotonlyafirst-ratemountaineer,butanexceedinglydiversifiedone.Mostclimbersfocusonaspecialty:purerock-climbing,alpinewalls,expeditionsto8,000-meterpeaksintheHimalaya.Conradhasexcelledinallthebranchesofthemountaineeringart.Bynow,forinstance,hisrésuméincludesnumerousone-dayascentsofeightdifferentroutesonElCapitan,inYosemite,normallytheprovinceofrock-wallspecialistswhobarelyknowhowtoholdaniceaxe.YetConradhasalsopulledofffiendishlydifficultclimbsonthe“BigThree”Patagoniantowers,CerroTorre,TorreEgger,andCerroStanhardt;soloedseriousnewroutesinthefrozenwastesofAntarctica;andputupelegantfirstascentsonsuchformidablemountainsasLatokIIintheKarakoramofPakistanandMountHunterinAlaska.

Anker’ssometimepartner,photographer,andveteranmountaineerGalenRowellhailsthisversatility:“ConradcanskidownvirginfacesofbigpeaksinsubzeroAntarctica,climbElCaproutesinadayforfun,sport-climb5.12,speed-climbupKhanTengriintheTienShanfasterthantheRussianMastersofSport,climbthenorthfaceofEverestorLatok,ice-climbthewildestfrozenwaterfalls,runmountaintrailsforever,plusenjoyhangingoutwithhisfriendstalkingaboutotherthingsbesidesmountains.”

TheformativeinfluenceonConradasaclimber,theonepartnerwhoservedasatruementor,wasTerrance“Mugs”Stump,whomConradmetin1983,climbingoutsideofSaltLakeCity.MorethantenyearsConrad’ssenior,Stumpwasalreadyalegend,knownforvisionaryascentsinthegreatranges,oftenperformedsolo,withnoself-publicizingfanfarewhatsoever(hedidnotregularlywritenotesfortheclimbingjournals).StumphadbeenastardefensivebackforJoePaternoatPennState,hadplayedintheOrangeBowl,buthadwreckedhisleftkneeplayingfootball.Hediscoveredhistruemétieronlyinhislatetwenties.

“Hewasreallymotivatedtobecomeatrueclimber,”remembersConrad.“He’dsay,‘Youcan’tsellout,guidingbumbleesupglorifiedskiruns.You’vegottodorealclimbing,you’vegottoclimbthisandthisandthis,that’swhereit’sat.’”

Conradquicklyprogressedfromprotégétoequalpartner.“Nietzschehasapassageinwhichhetalksaboutthe‘ballofknowledge.’Wewouldn’tbewhereweareashumanbeingsifitweren’tforthecollectiveknowledgethat’spassedonfromonegenerationtothenext.ItwaslikethatwithMugsandme.Hehadthisballofenergyandknowledge.Somedayshewouldpasstheballtome,andIwouldclimbbetterthanhe,andotherdayshewanteditback.Wewerereallywellpaired,wehadthesamesenseofhumor,andhesetmeonthepathtobecomingaprofessionalclimber.”

Forfouryears,MugsandConradlivedtogetherinSandy,asuburbofSaltLake,inahouseprovidedthembyJohnBass(nephewofDickBass,thefirstmantoclimbtheSevenSummits,orhighestpointsonallthecontinents),whohadtheremarkableideaofsupportingAmericanmountaineeringbygivingpromisingclimberssuchasStumpandAnkerahelpinghand.

MugsandConradclimbedtogetheroften,rangingfromYosemitetoAlaska.Their“epic”occurredontheEyetooth,asavagepinnacleoficeandgranitesoutheastofDenali.Aferociousstormkeptthetwomentrappedonaportaledge—anartificialtentplatformhungfrompitonsovertheverticalvoid—forseven

daysandnights.“Weranoutoffood,”recallsConrad.“Weprobablycouldhaverappelledoff,butMugswasintohanging,sowejustrelaxedandstayedtheretillthestormwasover.”

StumphadcomeofageduringthetimebeforeAmericanclimberscouldliveoffsponsorship.Hebecameaprofessionalclimberonlybyguidingnearlyfull-time.Ratherthansettleintotherutofguidingthesametraderouteoverandover,likethestandardwalk-uponRainierortheWestButtressonDenali,Stumptookambitiousclientsontoless-traveledroutes.Itwasononesuchouting,in1992,descendingDenali’sSouthButtress,thatStump,scoutingacrevassethatblockedthepath,hadtheupperlipcollapsebeneathhim.Hewasburiedundertonsofdebris,hisbodyneverfound.

Mugs’sdeathwasperhapsthemostdevastatingsetbackofConrad’slife.Inasense,hehasnevergottenovertheloss.MuchofhisresolvenottomakealivingasaguidespringsfromMugs’s“pointless”accidentonaneasyroute,ashetendedclients.“OnEverestthisyear,”saysConrad,“thedaywepackedupBaseCampwastheseventhanniversaryofMugs’sdeath.Itookalltheleftoverjuniperfromthepuja,halfagunny-sack-full,andtorcheditupintoonebigbillowingcloud.”

Likeallseriousmountaineers,Conradhashadhisshareofclosecalls.Theclosestcamein1991,onMiddleTriplePeakintheKichatnaSpiresofAlaska.ConradandlongtimepalSethShawhadmadethesecondascentofthemountain’ssplendideastbuttressandwerecompletingthedescent.Withonlyeightyverticalfeetremainingbetweenthemandtheglacier,ShawreachedthebottomofhisrappelandpreparedtoclipintotheanchorConradhadsetuptwofeetaway.Justashereachedoutacarabinertoclip,thesnowplatformonwhichhehadcometorestbrokeloose.Shawwasstillonrappel,attheenda300-footropedoubledthroughtheanchoronthepitchabove.Climberscustomarilytieknotsinbothendsoftherappelrope,sotheydon’tslideofftheendbyaccident;normallythesnowledgebreakingwouldhavebeeninconsequential.

“Wewerejustexhausted,”remembersConrad.“We’dbeenontheroutefivedays.We’dgoneintotheKichatnassuper-light,withonlyfourteendays’food,andthiswasourtwenty-firstday.SomehowItiedaknotinoneendoftheropeandnotintheother.”

ThusasShaw’sweightcameonthesingleknot,itpulledtheropethroughtheanchorabove,likealinewhippinguncheckedthroughapulley.Shawfelleightyfeetandlandedhardontheglacier.

“Ithoughthewasdead.SohereIamintheAlaskaRange,withnoradio,thenearestotherhumanbeingsixtymilesaway,eightyfeetup,withnorope.Ithought,Oh,myGod,howdoIgetoutofthis?”

AllConradhadtoextricatehimselffromahopelesspredicamentwasasmall“rack”ofclimbinggear,afewcamsandnutsandfiveorsixpitons.Hebegantoplacewhatgearhecouldinmarginalcracksintheverticalwallandaid-climbhiswaygingerlydown.Hehadtoputhisweightononeinsecurepiece,transferittothepiecebelow,thenremovetheuppercamornuttoreuseashegotlower.Atalltimeshetriedtokeepthreeinterconnectedpiecesaffixedtotherock.“Itwasliketryingtocrossadesert,”hesays,“withtwentyfeetofrailroadtrackthatIhadtokeeppullingupfrombehindandresettinginfront.

“Istartedhearingvoices.Humanvoices,butIcouldn’ttellwhattheyweresaying.It’stheeeriestthingI’veeverexperiencedinmylife.Eventually,Sethcametoandgotup.Amazingly,hewasn’tevenbadlyhurt.Wetalkedtoeachother.Hewaswallowingaroundinthesnow.Therewasstillnothinghecoulddoforme.Hedidn’thaveenoughgeartoleadbackuptomewiththerope,andbesides,hewasutterlyexhausted.

“Ijustkeptshufflinggear,cleaningiceoutofthecrack,tryingtokeepthreepiecesinatalltimes.ThensuddenlyIslippedandthewholethingblew—allthreepiecescameoutatonce.”

Conradfellmostoftheeightyfeet,hisbackslammingagainsttherock,thenhishead.Yettheglacialsnowonwhichhelandedsavedhim,asithadShaw,fromdeath.Conrad’sbackrangwithexcruciatingpain(theinjurystilloccasionallybothershim,eightyearslater),butthetwomennowfacedathirty-mileskiouttoRainyPasswithnofood.Thedesperatejaunttookthemthirty-sixhours.Alongtheway,theyfoundahuntingcabin;inside,theygorgedonajarofpeanutbutterandbagsofsaltandpepper(laidintoseasontheslabsoffreshmoosemeathuntersmightlugtherethenextOctober).Gladtobealive,theycrossedtheHappyRiverandreachedaroadhousehuntinglodgeatRainyPass,wheretheirbushpilotpickedthemup.

TheprofessionalturningpointinConrad’slifecamein1993,whenNorthFacesignedhimonasasponsoredclimber.Hisfirstcontractearnedhimarelativepittance,butbylivingfrugallyandsupplementinghistakewiththeoddcarpentryjob,hemadeendsmeet.By1999,ConradwasmakingadecentincomefromhisNorthFacegig,althoughgoingtoEverestentailedsomanymissedobligationsthat—justlikeMalloryin1924—heagreedtotakeacuttohalfpay.

AsaNorthFacerepresentative,Conradtravelsaroundthecountry,givingslideshows,takingpotentialclientsoutforadayofeasyskiingorclimbing,orgivingaclimbingdemonstrationonanartificialwall.Hecanbesardonicaboutthework,whichhesometimesalludestoas“thepettingzoo.”Yet,inhishabituallyearnestway,hewaxesenthusiasticabouthisencounterswithapublicavidtotasteadventure,evenifvicariously.

“Icanusemyslideshowsandskioutingsasachancetosharemyoutlookonlife,whichisfundamentallyBuddhist,”hesays.“Peoplecometoseeslidesofmeclimbing,tosharemyadventures,butIcanusetheopportunitytotalkaboutbeingagoodperson,abouthowangerandhatreddisruptanexpedition,abouthowsometimesittakesalittlemoreefforttobepositivethannegative,butthatit’sultimatelylife-enriching.I’dliketotakewhatnotorietyorfamecomesmywayandturnitintosomethinggood,asforinstanceSirEdmundHillaryhas,buildingschoolsandhospitalsinNepal.I’dliketosharewhatmountainshavedonetochangemylife,andbecomeaspokespersonforgoodness.”

Anker’spartneronmanyextremeclimbsduringthelastsevenyears,AlexLowe,says,“MorethananyoneI’vetraveledandclimbedwith,Conradreachesouttothepeoplearoundhim,givingofhimself,histime,andhisillimitableenergy.Noonewhocomesincontactwithhimwalksawayunaffected.”

Atthirty-six,Conradstandssixfeettwoandweighs175pounds,thoughhelostafewpoundsonEverest.Hissandyhairisusuallyunkemptandtousled,asifthewindhadriotedinit,andaday’sgrowthofbeardoftenfurshischeeksandchin.Hismannerissoft-spokenandunfailinglypolite,thoughhisblue-greeneyesholdhisinterlocutorwithanunblinkinggaze.Evenatrestinhisownapartment,hisbodyseemstohavethecatlikegrace,coiledreadytospring,ofagreatathleteingreatshape.

Duringthelasteighteenyearsofvagabondage,Ankerfeltthattheintensityofhisclimbingprecludedmarriageandfamily.Twoyearsago,however,hemetBeckyHall,alawyerfortheNatureConservancy.JustbeforeConradleftforEverest,thetwobecameaffianced.

InthewakeofMugsStump’sdeath,miredinayear-longdepression,Conradtaughthimselftopaintwithwatercolors.Thissedentaryoccupationhasbecomehisoneserioushobby,whichhepursueseveninthemidstofexpeditions.HisdeftlandscapeshaveakindofJapanesesimplicity.Hegivesawayeverypaintingheexecutes,andneversignsthem.

OnEverest,withhisfascinationforallthingsBuddhist,Conradbecameintenselycuriousaboutthelivesoftheyakherderswhocartedtheexpedition’s16,000poundsoffoodandgearfromBaseCamptoABC,aboutthelivesoftheSherpaswhowouldmakesuchinvaluablecolleaguesuphigh.“BecausetheUnitedStatesissorecentlysettled,despitetheNativeAmericans,”hesays,“inourcountrywedon’treallyhave

amountainculture.InplaceslikeTibet,I’mcompletelyfascinatedwiththemountainculturesthathavebeenathomeinthegreatrangesforcenturies.”

Goodclimbers,onthewhole,arenotoftendeeplyempathicmenorwomen.Theirownagendasoftriumphandvindicationloomtoolarge.ConradAnkerisanexception.Andjustashissympatheticopennessledhimtospendhoursloungingwiththeyakherders,withoutbeingabletoexchangeanintelligibleword,itwasnotsurprisingthat,whentheUkrainianVolodGorbachlayneardeathinthemiddleofthenightontheNorthCol,Conradshouldunhesitatinglytakechargeofthedifficultanddangerousevacuationthatmightsavehislife.

DR

WEPUTVOLODINTOASKED—asledlitterthatlookssomethinglikeabigplasticburrito—withfoampadsunderneathhim.Weputhisharnesson,tiedtheharnesstothetopofthesled,puthiminsideasleepingbag,andwrappedhimupsohewouldn’tfalloutofthesled.TherewerethefourofusAmericans—TapRichards,JakeNorton,AndyPolitz,andme—alongwithSilvio,averystrongItalianclimber.

WeknewtherewerefixedropesinplaceallthewaydownthesteepsectionbelowtheNorthCol,andthusfixedanchorsaboutevery150feet.Wehada600-footropeofourown,sowecouldmakeagoodlonglower,thenrappeldownthefixedropesourselves.

TapandIstayedatthetop,loweringVolod.WeusedaMunterhitch,asimpleknotthatwouldcinchdownontheropeevenifwelostcontrolofitaltogether.TheropecameupfromVolod’ssled,throughabelaydeviceattacheddirectlytotheanchor,thentoTapandme.It’sasifwewereloweringhimthroughapulley,withanemergencybrakebackingusup.

AndyandSilviowererappellingthefixedlines,buttendingthesled,oneoneithersideofit.Theyhadshortleashestothetopandbottomofthesled,tomakesureitdidn’tflipupsidedown,whichcaneasilyhappeninalowerifthefootofthesledfetchesuponaledgeorabulge.Jakewentfirst,tosetupeachstationforthenextmaneuver.

Assoonaswe’dloweredhimthefull600feet,AndyandSilviowouldtieVolodoff.TapandIwouldcutloosetheropesandrappelquicklydown;bythetimewegottothenextstation,Volodwasriggedforthenextlower.Weweredoingallthisinthedark,withheadlamps,communicatingwitheachotherbyradio.

Assmoothlyaswemanagedthelowering,thesledwasstillbouncingoffcornersandshelvesintheice,causingVolodalotofpain,thoughyourbodywillkickinwithendorphinsthatactasnaturalpainkillers.Wecouldseethathisnosewasfrostbitten—blackandshriveledup,withbitsoffleshcomingoff.Weknewhisfeetandhandswerefrostbitten,butwedidn’twanttotakeoffhisglovesorboots.

I’mproudtosaythatwewerereallyefficient.Wedidfive600-footlowersinonlyanhourandahalf.Someofthemweretricky:thesecondwentoveranopencrevasse,thefourthdownareallysteepicechute.

Bymidnight,we’dgottenVolodtothefootoftheNorthCol.Itwasasdarkandcoldasitwasgoingtoget.TherewasstillaconsiderablehorizontalcarrytoABC,at21,000feet.RussellBricehadorganizedateamtotakeoverfromusthere,comprisedofDaveHahnandThomPollardfromourparty,severalclimbersfromotherexpeditions,andawholebunchofcookboysandSherpas,abouttwentypeopleinall.TheytookVolod’ssledandcarriedhimacrosstherelativelyflatpartoftheglacierincrediblyfast.Theyjustflew.Partoftheway,theycouldslidehimonanotherrescuesled,whichSimohadarrangedtogettothefootofthelower.

Inhissled,Volodkepttryingtositup.Theguyswhowerecarryinghimsaid,“Justtwentyminutes.Twentymoreminutes!”Volodcouldbarelywhisperinresponse.TheyfinallygothimtoABCat2:30A.M.

There,RussellBricehadconvertedhisdiningtentintoamedicalward.TheyhadaheatergoingtokeepVolodwarm.TheUkrainianteamdoctorputsomeoxygenonVolodandgotsomefluidsintohim.Hecouldbarelymanagetodrinkthroughastraw.Finallytheytookoffhisglovesandboots.Thehandsandfeetweren’tcompletelyblack,buttheylookedbad.Whatnonplussedmewastoseethatonthelowerpartofhisbody,Volodhadonlylongunderwearon,thenfleecepants,thenGore-Texpants.Nodownsuitonhislowerbody.

ThatservesasareminderofjusthowimportantmountaineeringisincertainimpoverishedEasternEuropeancountries.NotonlyUkraine,butRussia,Poland,Czechoslovakia,Slovenia—allthosecountrieshaveproducedsuperbHimalayanclimbers,who’vesucceededwithoutevenbeingabletoaffordproperequipment,letalonehavingtheluxuryofbeingsponsored.There’satremendousamountofnationalprideinvolvedintheirefforts.ItemergesfromtheUkrainianexpeditionbrochure,writteninfracturedEnglish,buteloquentallthesame:

TheUkraineneedsheroustoenteringtotheXXICenture,andtheyareforgedthere,wherethemaximumconcetrationofphusical,mentalandintellectualforcesisnecessaryforachievementthepurpose.Thereisnobetterplace,thanclimbingtothehighestsummitsoftheworld.

Onthemorningoftheeleventh,Ibuiltacarryingbasketoutoftwometalpackframes,someducttape,andsomeparachutecord,andfiveTibetanscarriedVolodthethirteenmilesdowntoBaseCamp.Hewasn’tingreatshape,buthewasluckytobealive.

Wehadneverworkedbetterasateamthanduringthisrescue.DaveHahnputupaniceacknowledgmentofourachievementinhisMountainZonedispatch:

AsIrecallfromnormallife,heroesareseldomseenupcloseandpersonal.Infact,whereIworkatMountRainier,Ihavetodriveallthewaydowntothebigcity,buyaticketanda$6beer,andsitwayupinthestandsinthehopesthatKenGriffeyJr.willsmackoneoverthewallandgivemealong-distancelookatgreatness.Here,Ijustlookovermyteacupandseeheroeseveryday.

Twomonthsaftertheexpedition,IgotwordfromaUkrainianteammember,RomanCoval,inKiev.Volodhadhadthelastjointsoftwofingersonhislefthandamputated,aswellasseveraltoesonbothfeet.Itcouldhavebeenalotworse.

Hehopedtoclimbagain.AsRomanrathermordantlyputit,“InUkraine,wehaveenoughclimberswithoutfingersortoes—theonlyproblemistochangebootsize.”

TheteamhadreceivedspecialhonorsfromthepresidentoftheUkraine.Theexpedition,Romansaid,hadbeen“highlyapprovedbythegovernment.”

NooneeverfoundanytraceofVasilCopitko.HisteammatesthinkthatashetriedtodescendinthedarklateonMay8,hemusthavefallenofftheeasternfaceoftheridge,abovetheKangshungGlacier.Ifhe’dfallendownthenorthface,abovetheRongbuk,somebodylaterinMaywouldprobablyhavefoundsomething.It’sentirelypossiblethatVasil’sbodywillneverbediscovered.

Despiteoursuccess,therescuehadasoberingeffectonourteam.TheUkrainiansweren’tnovices;theyweregood,strongclimberswhoknewwhattheyweredoing.Onlysomeminormiscalculations,andthebadluckofweather,putthemontheedgeofsurvival.Weallknewthesamethingcouldhappentous.

ItwasMay11,andnooneexceptthethreeUkrainianshadyetsummittedonEverestfromthenorth.Wehadbeenplanningtousethesedaystorestupforoursecondsearchandoursummitattempt.Insteadofgatheringstrengthandfatteningup,herewewere,exhaustingourselvesperformingarescueinthemiddleofthenight.

ItriedtorecuperateonMay11,butitwasn’taveryrestfulday.Onthetwelfth,wewentbackuptotheNorthCol.IfiguredIwasasreadyasI’deverbe.MymindhadfixatedonanimageoftheSecondStep,whichI’dseenonlyinpictures.IfIcouldclimbitfree,IcouldjudgehowharditwouldhavebeenforMallorytohaveclimbeditonJune8,1924.

6TeethintheWind

DR

MALLORY’SGRIMPREMONITIONcametrue:intheend,the1924expeditionwasmorelikewarthanmountaineering.

YetashesailedfromEnglandtoIndia,thenasherodeandhikedtowardEverest,Britain’sfinestclimberwasfillednotwithforeboding,butwithoptimism.“Ican’tseemyselfcomingdowndefeated,”hewroteRuthfromtheremoteTibetanvillageofShekarDzong.TohisformerteammateTomLongstaff,hepredicted,“We’regoingtosailtothetopthistime,andGodwithus—orstamptothetopwithourteethinthewind.”

Ashehadinboth1921and’22,oncemoreMalloryunderestimatedEverest.Hisbravuraperformancetwoyearsbefore,alongwithFinch’s,hadmadethesummitseemwellwithinhisgrasp.Attimes,hiscertaintyaboutsuccesscouldapproachcocksurearrogance,asduringhislecturetourofAmerica,where,envisioningathirdexpedition,heboasted,“MountEverestisaskingfortrouble.”Yetatothertimes,hisconfidencewaslacedwiththreadsofdoubt,asinasentencehewrotehissisterMaryfromshipboard,“Anyway,we’vegottogetupthistime;andifwewaitforitandmakefullpreparations,insteadofdashingupatthefirstmoment,someofuswillreachthesummit,Ibelieve.”

The1924partywasevenstrongerthanthe1922teamhadbeen.GeneralCharlesBrucewasbackasleader,nowfifty-eightandinpoorhealthevenbeforetheexpeditionstarted.ButHowardSomervellandTeddyNortonwerereturning,seasonedbytheirpreviousEverestforay.Thecool-headedNortonwasappointedclimbingleader,despiteMallory’sgreaterexperienceandtechnicalability.SomervellbroughtalongBentleyBeetham,ayoungclimberofwhommuchwasexpected,forinthesummerof1923,thepairhadhadaseasonintheAlpsfewotherEnglishmencouldmatch,climbingsomethirty-fivepeaksinsixweeks.

NoelOdellimportedvastfundsofexploratorywisdomandalpineexpertise,andthoughhewasslowtoacclimatize,oncehewasinshape,hewouldoutperformallhisteammatesexceptNortonandMallory.Odell’sSpitsbergenprotégé,SandyIrvine,wasanunprovenquantity,butquicklyshowedthathissolidathleticismandbuoyantspiritcouldmakeupforlackofmountaineeringexperience.RoundingoutthepartywereGeoffreyBruce,nowamountaineer,thankstohis1922campaign;JohndeVereHazard,afastandexperiencedclimberintheAlps;andphotographer-cinematographerJohnNoel,whowouldprovestaunchinasupportingrole.

Mallorythoughttheteam“areallystronglot,”andNortonwentevenfurther:“IdoubtifsostrongapartywilleveragainbegottogethertoclimbMountEverest.”

Duringthejourneytothemountain,Mallorybadlymissedhiswife,towhomhewroteoftenandatgreatlength.Thesenseofhavingdoneherharm,duringwhatever“difficulttime”thecouplehadgonethroughthepreviousautumn,afflictedhim.“IfearIdon’tmakeyouveryhappy,”hewrotefromtheship.“Lifehastoooftenbeenaburdentoyoulately,anditishorridwhenwedon’tgetmoretimeandtalktogether.”ForRuth,herhusband’sabsencewasaconstantache:“Dearestone,Idohopeyouarehappyandhavinga

goodvoyage.Iamkeepingquitecheerfulandhappy,butIdomissyoualot.”

Ontheapproach,GeneralBrucerecurringlyfelt“seedy”andweak.Unabletokeepupwithhisteammates,hechosealow-altitudedetourtogethimselftothevillageofKampaDzongtwodaysafterthemainparty.Beforehecouldreachthattown,however,hecollapsedinafull-blownmalarialfever,apparentlytheflaringupofalong-dormantinfection.Bitterlydisappointed,heresignedfromtheexpeditionandreturnedtoIndia.

TeddyNortonwasmadeleaderoftheparty,andMalloryclimbingleader(whichhewouldhavebeendefactoinanycase).Fortunately,thetwomengotalongsplendidly,evenduringtheexpedition’slowestmoments,andmadenoimportantdecisionswithoutconsultingeachother.

Mallory’sobsessionhadtakentheformoftryingtocomeupwithaperfectplanforlinkedpartiestopushforthesummit.JohnNoelnotedthat“heseemedtobeillatease,alwaysschemingandplanning.”ByApril14,stillfarfromthemountain,hehaddevisedastrategy,whichhedetailedenthusiasticallyinalettertoRuth;then,onlythreedayslater,hewasseizedwithwhathecalleda“brain-wave”thatpresentedhimanewplanlikeanepiphany.Essentiallyitboileddowntoputtingapairofpartiessimultaneouslyinpositiontogotothetopfromdifferentcamps.FromCampIVontheNorthCol,twoclimberswithfifteenporterswouldclimbtoCampV,buildfourtentplatforms,anddescend.Anotherpair,thefirst,“gasless”summitparty,wouldoccupyCampVonenight,thenpushonwitheightporters,skippingCampVI,tosetupaCampVIIat27,300feet—higherthananyonehadyetbeenonearth.Atthesametimethesecondsummitparty,usingoxygen,wouldestablishaCampVIsome800feetlowerthanCampVII.“Thenthetwoparties,”wroteMallorytoRuth,“startnextmorningandpresumablymeetonthesummit.”

Theplanlookedgoodonpaper,andNortonwaswonoverbyit;butofcourseonEverestthebest-laidschemesofmenandmountaineers“gangafta-gley.”Intheendtwopartieswouldindeedtryforthesummit,onewithoutoxygen,onewith,buttheywouldlaunchfourdaysapart,andbythetimethesecondpair—MalloryandIrvine—setoutforthetop,thefirstpairhadstumbleddowntoCampIII.ThevisionaryCampVII,perchedhighonanexposedshoulderjustbelowthecrestofthenortheastridge,wouldneverbeestablished.

AstheteammembershadsailedforIndia,anaggingworryplaguedtheirthoughts.Thedisasterof1922,whensevenportershaddied,wouldstillbefreshintheSherpas’minds:wouldanyvolunteersbewillingtogobackuponthemountainthathadprovedsodeadly?Theteamwasthusoverjoyedwhentheylearnedthroughtheirtradingagentthata“numberofSherpas,Bhotias,andhill-mengenerally”hadcomein,hopingtobehired.

YetMalloryandhiscomradeswererighttoanticipatetheSherpas’terrors.In1924itwouldtakeverylittletodemoralizetheportersaltogether.AforetasteoftheirambivalencecameinthebehaviorofAngtarkay,whohadbeendugoutoftheavalanchedebrisin1922.“Wefeltboundtotakehimonagain,”wroteGeneralBruceintheopeningchapterofTheFightforEverest(whichhewasproudtopen,despitehavinggivenuptheexpedition),“buthesoonbrokedown,andreturnedwithme.”InBruce’sview,theSherpahadnever“reallyrecoveredfromthatterrificexperience”ofbeingburiedaliveinsnow.

Mallory’sparamountvowwastoavoidarecurrenceofthe1922tragedy.AshewrotehissisterMaryonMay2,inanotherpassagethatresonateswithironicforeshadowing,“Noone,climberorporter,isgoingtogetkilledifIcanhelpit.Thatwouldspoilall.”

Withsomeseventyporters,cooks,and“domesticservants”intow,theexpeditionrodeonponiesthroughTibet.Anomenofbadfortune,however,awaitedthemattheRongbukMonastery.Theretheylearnedthattheheadlamawasillandcouldnotperformthepujaonwhichtheporterssetsuchstoretokeepthemsafe

onthemountain.Andthere,theclimbersbeheldafreshmuralpaintingchillinglymemorializingthe1922accident:inBentleyBeetham’swords,itdepicted“thepartybeingpitch-forkeddownthemountain-sidebyhoofeddevilsandsentspinningintothecolderhell.”

Twoweekslater,duringalullinthefoulMayweatherthatthwartedtheexpedition,Nortonmarchedthewholeteambackdowntothemonastery.Insteadofablessing,however,theheadlamaofferedtheEnglishmenamalediction.“Yourturningbackbringspleasuretothedemons,”heintonedinTibetan,whichaninterpretertranslatedtoJohnNoel.“Theyhaveforcedyouback,andwillforceyoubackagain.”

Forallthis,ashereachedBaseCamp,armedwithhis“brain-wave”scheme,Mallorywasstillawashinthehighestoptimism.“Ican’ttellyouhowfullofhopeIamthisyear,”hewrotehissisterMary.“Itisallsodifferentfrom’22,whenonewasalwayssubconsciouslydissatisfiedbecausewehadnoproperplanofclimbingthemountain.”

AllduringthejourneytoIndiaandthemarchacrossTibet,MalloryhadbeensizingupSandyIrvine.Fromthestart,ashewroteRuth,hefoundtheOxfordundergraduate“sensibleandnothighlystrung,”thoughhecouldnotresistanimpishsketchofIrvineas“onetodependonforeverythingexceptconversation.”Later,duringastormonthemountain,Malloryreadpoemsoutloudfromhischerishedanthology,RobertBridges’sTheSpiritofMan.SomervellwassurprisedtolearnthatEmilyBrontëhadwrittenpoemsaswellasnovels;OdellwasstirredbythelastlinesofShelley’sPrometheusUnbound;while“Irvinewasratherpoetry-shy,butseemedtobefavourablyimpressedbytheEpitaphtoGray’s‘Elegy.’”(Onewondersjusthowthatgloomymeditationinacountrychurchyardontheanonymousdeadresonatedwiththetwenty-two-year-old:“Thepathsofgloryleadbuttothegrave.”)

NortontoowastakenwithSandyIrvine’squietstrength.InTheFightforEverest,hedescribedhisyoungteammatethus:“Irvine,asbefittedarowingblue,wasbigandpowerful—withfineshouldersandcomparativelylightlegs.”IrvinewasalittleheavierthanMallory,andinsuperbshape,havingrowedtwoseasonsfortheOxfordcrewthatbeatCambridgein1922forthefirsttimesince1913.ThoughnotasclassicallybeautifulasMallory,hewasaremarkablyhandsomeyoungman.AfamilytraditionrecordsthatatOxford,Irvinebecameawomanizer,conductinganaffairwithhisbestfriend’sstepmother.Hehadaveryfaircomplexion,whencehisnickname;onEverest,Irvinewouldsuffermorethananyoneelsefromsun-andwindburn.

HerbertCarr,Irvine’sbiographer,whoknewhimatOxford,thoughttheyouthinnatelyshy.“Hehadanoddwayoflaughing,”Carrremembered.“Itwasasilentlaugh,visiblebutnotaudible,alonglowreverberatingchucklewhichlituphisfacewithsunnymerriment.Andashisnormalexpressionwasgrave,thecontrastwasallthemorestriking.”

IrvinewasborninBirkenheadintogenteelcircumstancesnotunlikeMallory’s.HeattendedShrewsburypublicschool,thenMertonCollegeatOxford.Hisacademicforteswerechemistryandengineering;inFrenchandLatin,ontheotherhand,hewaswoefullyweak.Eveninadolescence,hewasextraordinarilyadeptattinkeringandinventing.WhilestillatShrewsbury,hesenttheblueprintsfortwomachinesofhisdevisingtotheWarOffice—aninterruptergearforfiringmachinegunsthroughpropellers,andagyroscopicairplanestabilizer.BothhadalreadybeenanticipatedbyHiramMaxim(theinventorofthemachinegun),buttheflabbergastedWarOffice,accordingtoHerbertCarr,senthim“mostwarmcongratulations…withinstructionstogoontrying.”

InMürren,inSwitzerland,atChristmas1923,ArnoldLunn,whoconceivedtheslalomrace,gaveIrvineskiinglessons.“HeistheonlybeginnerIhaveeverknown,”reportedLunn,“whobroughtoffathisfirstattemptadownhillTelemark.”Afteronlythreeweeksofpractice,IrvineenteredandwontheStrang-WatkinsChallengeCup(aslalomrace)againstseasonedveterans.Helovedthesport,writingLunnin

gratitude,“WhenIamold,IwilllookbackonChristmas,1923,asthedaywhentoallintentsandpurposesIwasborn.Idon’tthinkanybodyhaseverliveduntiltheyhavebeenonski.”

Intenselycompetitive,ontheapproachtoEverestIrvinefoundgoodsportinchallengingMallorytoaponyrace.Theoldermanwascharmedbytheself-confidentyoungster.AfterseveralweeksontheEastRongbukGlacier,MallorynotedthatIrvine“hasbeenwonderfullyhard-workingandbrilliantlyskilfulabouttheoxygen.Againsthimishisyouth(thoughitisverymuchforhim,someways)—hardthingsseemtohithimabitharder….However,he’llbeanidealcompanion,andwithasstoutaheartasyoucouldwishtofind.”

MallorywasgenuinelydazzledbyIrvine’saptitudewiththeoxygengear.Aftertheyoungmanhadtakentheapparatusapart,strippedsomefourpoundsofuselessmetalfromeachset,andputthepiecesbacktogether,Mallorymarveled,“Whatwasprovidedwasfullofleaksandfaults;andhehaspracticallyinventedanewinstrument.”ForsomeoneasmechanicallyineptasMallory,Irvine’sfacilitywasnothingshortofmiraculous:watchinghiscomradetinkerwiththeill-designedequipment,hewaslikeatone-deafauditorlisteninginuncomprehendingadmirationtotheplayingofsometwenty-two-year-oldMozart.

Eversince1924,observershavesecond-guessedMallory’sdecisiontotakeIrvinealongonthesummitpush,ratherthanthefarmoreexperiencedOdell.ManyhavewonderedwhetherIrvine’smeagerskillsinthemountainscouldhavecontributedtothefatalaccident.WaltUnsworth,inhisdefinitivehistoryofEverest,wentsofarastospeculatewhetherMallory“hadformedaromanticattachmentforthehandsomeyoungundergraduate.”

Oneneednotreachsofarforanexplanation.OnceMalloryhadcommittedhimselftotheuseofoxygenonhissummitattempt,Irvine’sexpertisebecamecritical.Odellwasostensiblyinchargeoftheoxygenapparatus,buthewasawitheringskepticaboutitsbenefits.MalloryclearlyexplainedhisreasonsinalettertoRuth:notonlywasIrvinetheoxygenexpert,butifMallorypairedwithOdell,thatwouldleaveanall-too-inexperiencedduoofIrvineandGeoffreyBruceasbackup.

AndsoIrvinewillcomewithme.Hewillbeanextraordinarilystoutcompanion,verycapablewiththegasandwithcookingapparatus.Theonlydoubtistowhatextenthislackofmountaineeringexperiencewillbeahandicap.Ihopethegroundwillbesufficientlyeasy.

IrvinekeptadiaryonEverest,makinghislastentryonlythedaybeforesettingoutwithMalloryforthetop.ThediarywasretrievedbyOdellandpublishedin1979.Itisafairlystoliddocument,writtenforthemostpartinthepronoun-lessstaccatosooftenfavoredbytheunintrospective:“SpentafternoonrepackingPrimusstoves,alsonegotiatingtobuypony….Putlighteningfastenersonmysleepingbag.”Irvinewasteslittlebreathonobservinghisteammates;akindoftunnelvisiondominateshisperspective.LikemanyanotherEnglishmanonhisfirsttriptoAsia,hewasabitsqueamish.InoneTibetanvillage,“Iwasveryimpressedbythedirtinessofthewholeplace,andalsothesmell.”Inanother:“WentthisafternoontoseeTibetanDevildancers—thismostweirdperformancewascontinuousfrom2:00P.M.to6:30P.M.,andgotrathermonotonoustowardstea-time.”

Somehowduringtheapproach,IrvinereceiveddismayingnewsfromOxford.“GotwiretosaythatCambridgewonby4½lengths—incredible!”Adaylater,hehadnotabsorbedtheshock:“Istillcan’tgetoverOxfordbeingbeatenbyfourandahalflengths—Ishouldliketohavedetailsoftherace.”

YetthediarycapturesIrvine’sobsessivetinkering,asherecordsoneattempttofixapieceofequipmentafteranother.Thebalkyoxygengearbecamehisgreatestchallenge.Atypicalpassage:

Ispentallafternoonandeveningagainpatchingupoxygenapparatus.OutofboxNo.2023Imadeup

twocompleteinstruments(1Aand2A),butwithoutemergencytubes,asallinthisboxleaked—eitherthepipeorthebrassoftheunionwasporous.Number3AhadadudflowmeterwhichItooktopieces—itappearedcorrodedinsidearoundthebottombearing.IcleanedthisupaswellasIcould,butitisstillstickyat1½+3,butworksalrightifhiteverynowandthen.Number4Ahadablockedreducingvalve,sowasturnedintoMkIIIpattern.

OnecanimagineIrvinetryingtoexplainthesearcanematterstoapuzzledMallory.Indeed,akindofunintentionalhumoremergesfromthediary,asIrvinetendstothegearwoesof(inLongstaff’spithycharacterizationfrom1922)the“stoutheartedbaby”whowas“quiteunfittobeplacedinchargeofanything,includinghimself.”Asample:

APRIL11th….ImendedMallory’sbed,Beetham’scamera,Odell’scameratripodandsealedupafulltinofparrafin….

APRIL12th.Spentdayincamp,didsomephotography,sortingbiscuitboxesanddoingajobofworkonMallory’scamera,whichspunoutandtookallafternoon.

APRIL19th….IspentthisafternoonmendingoneofMallory’siceaxes(brokenbyacoolie)….

APRIL27th….AfteraboutanhourMallorycameinwithaboxofcrampons,andIspenttilldinnertimefittingcramponstoMallory’sandmyboots,andtryingtofixthemwithouthavingastrapacrossthetoes,whichislikelytostopthecirculation.

APRIL28th….SpentmostoftheafternoonwithBeetham’scamera,alsomendingmysleepingbagandMallory’ssaddle.

Allthiscompulsiveputtering,ofcourse,wasofimmensepracticalvaluetotheexpedition.Irvinemightbe“poetry-shy,”buthewouldbeirreplaceablehighonthemountainwhengearmalfunctioned.

Astheexpeditionprogressed,thebondbetweenMalloryandIrvinegrew.AfterMay7,inIrvine’sdiary,Malloryiscalled“George”;theothersremainNorton,Somervell,Hazard,andsoon.ThefriendlycompetitivenessthathaddictatedaponyraceextendedontoEverest,where,however,Irvinecouldneverkeepupwithhisolderfriend,thatwizardofmotioninthemountains.“Whenwemovedon,”IrvinewroteonMay4,“adevilmusthavegotintoMallory,forherandownallthelittlebitsofdownhillandpacedalloutupthemoraine.Itwasasbadasaboatracetryingtokeepupwithhim.”

THEPARTYREACHEDBASECAMPbeneaththeterminusoftheRongbukGlacieronApril29.Atonce,themembersstartedsortingout300yak-loadsofgeartobecarriedtosubsequentcampsontheEastRongbuk.Mallory’soptimismhadreachedfullbore:hehadalreadydecidedthatMay17,giveortakeadayortwo,wouldbethesummitday;andhepredictedtoRuth,“Thetelegramannouncingoursuccess…willprecedethisletter,Isuppose;butitwillmentionnonames.HowyouwillhopethatIwasoneoftheconquerors!”

Theneverythingstartedtogowrong.TheweatherwasfiercelycoldandstormyevenatthecomparativelylowaltitudeofBaseCamp.OnApril28,“abitterlycoldwindblew,theskywascloudy,andfinallywewokeuptofindasnowstormgoingon.Yesterdaywasworse,withlightsnowfallingmostoftheday.”TheteamtriedtoimposeEnglishcheerontheirdesolatecamp,fetingtheirarrivalwithafive-coursemealandseveralbottlesofchampagne.

Bynow,thenumberofportersandyakherdershadswelledto150.WithGurkhaleaderswhowereveteransfrom1922,thesenativessetoutonApril30withoutsahibs,singingandjoking,toestablish

CampsIandII.TheplanwasforhalftoturnbackafterdumpingtheirloadsatI,withtheotherhalfpushingontoIIthenextday.ButontheirwaybacktoBaseCamp,nightcaughttheporters,andonlytwenty-twooftheseventy-fivearrived.Theywerefoundthenextdayunharmed;buttheirdisappearancehadlaunchedadevastatingseriesofporterproblemsthatwouldcrippletheexpeditioninthefollowingweeks.

OnMay7,carryingloadstoCampII,theportersranintosuchatrociousweatherthatMalloryorderedthemtoleavetheirloadsamileshortofcamp.MeanwhileanothercontingentofportershadbeentrappedatCampIII,at21,500feet,“withonlyoneblanketapiece,”asGeoffreyBrucewroteintheexpeditionbook,“andalittleuncookedbarleytoeat,andwerenowdrivenoutunabletobearitlonger,utterlyexhausted.”WhentheystaggereddowntoII,theyswelledacrowdofporterstotwicethenumberforwhomtherewastentspace.Therewasnochoicebuttobreakopenthefoodandtentsintendedforhigheronthemountain.

AtCampIII,Malloryandthreeteammatesenduredtemperaturesaslowas−22ºF.withhighwinds.Ifconditionswerethisbadlowonthemountain,theywouldbeunendurableabovetheNorthCol.

MalloryhadhopedtoestablishCampIVontheNorthColbyMay9,butthatdayOdellandHazardwereturnedbackinablizzardonlythreequartersofthewayup,dumpingtheirloadsinthesnow.ThemenspentawretchednightatIII,laterdescribedbyBruce:

Theblizzardcontinuedwithunabatingviolence,andsnowdriftedintoourtentscoveringeverythingtoadepthofaninchortwo.Thediscomfortofthatnightwasacute.Ateveryslightestmovementofthebodyaminiatureavalancheofsnowwoulddropinsideone’ssleeping-bagandmeltthereintoacoldwetpatch.

Intheseconditions,theporters’moraleplungedalarmingly.Malloryandhiscompanionsdideverythingtheycouldtoexhortthenativestofurtherefforts,butitwasalosingbattle.Nodoubtthefailureofthementoreceivethelama’spujaattheRongbukMonasterycontributedtotheirapathy,asdidthefrightfulweather.Malloryblamedan“Orientalinertia”:“TheyhavethisOrientalqualitythatafteracertainstageofphysicaldiscomfortormentaldepressionhasbeenreachedtheysimplycurlup.Ourporterswerejustcurledupintheirtents.”Buthehadtoadmitthatthesahibsthemselveshadalsocurleduptowaitoutthestorms:theyspent“mostofthetimeinthetents—nootherplacebeingtolerable.”

AtlastNortonbowedtotheinevitable,orderingalltheportersandclimberstoretreatallthirteenmilesbacktoBaseCamp.Thecolumnformed,inBruce’sword,“amelancholyprocessionofsnow-blind,sick,andfrost-bittenmen.”Eveninretreat,disasterstruck,asoneporterfellandbrokehisleg,anotherdevelopedabloodclotonthebrain,andacobblerhad“hisfeetfrost-bittenuptotheankles.”Thelattertwodiedshortlyafter,tobeburiednearBaseCamp.

TheEnglishmenwerefaringlittlebetter,withailmentsrangingfromhackingcoughsto“glacierlassitude.”Malloryhadweatheredintestinalproblemssosevereitwassuspectedthathehadappendicitis.Beethamwaslaidlowbysciaticasopersistentthathewouldneverclimbveryhighonthemountain.

In1922,theteamhadreachedtheNorthColbyMay13,andMallory,Somervell,andNortonhadlaunchedthefirstsummitattemptonlysevendayslater.Duringthecorrespondingweekin1924,thepartyhadfailedeventoreachtheNorthCol.Instead,theyspentsixdaysatBaseCamp,lickingtheirwounds.MallorywroteRuth,“Ithasbeenaverytryingtimewitheverythingagainstus.”

NotuntilMay17—thedayMalloryhadoriginallyplottedforthesummit—didthedebilitatedclimbers

headbackupthemountain.SomervelllaterjudgedthattheappallingweekofwaitingoutstormsatCampIIIhad“reducedourstrengthandmadeus…thinandweakandalmostinvalided,insteadofbeingfitandstrongaswehadbeenduringthe1922ascent.”

Nonetheless,Malloryralliedhiswaningoptimism,fixingMay28ashisnewsummitdate,andwroteRuthwithdoggedhope,“Itisanefforttopulloneselftogetheranddowhatisrequiredhighup,butitisthepowertokeeptheshowgoingwhenyoudon’tfeelenergeticthatwillenableustowinthroughifanythingdoes.”

Atlast,onMay20,Mallory,Norton,Odell,andoneSherpagainedtheNorthCol.Mallorytooktheleadupasteepicechimneythatformedadifficultbutsafealternativetotheslopethathadavalanchedin1922.Nortonleftavividdescriptionofthat200-footlead:“Youcouldpositivelyseehisnervestightenuplikefiddlestrings.Metaphoricallyhegirtuphisloins….Upthewallandchimneyheledhere,climbingcarefully,neatly,andinthatbeautifulstylethatwasallhisown.”

Theascent,wroteMallory,was“atriumphoftheoldgang.”Yetonthisexpeditionwherenothingseemedtogoright,afurthercatastrophestruckthefourmenastheydescended.

ItbeganasMallorydecidedtoheaddownbytheill-starred1922route.Earlyon,themenhitslopeswheretheyneededthecramponstheyhadleftatCampIII.Mallorychoppedoccasionalsteps,butfollowingunroped,firstNortonslipped,thentheSherpa—bothfortunatelystoppingaftershortslides.Leadingdownward,Mallorysuddenlyplungedtenfeetintoahiddencrevasse.AsduringhisfallontheNesthornin1909,when,belayedbyGeoffreyWinthropYoung,Malloryneverletgoofhisaxe,nowheshowedremarkableself-possessioneveninmidplunge.AshewroteRuth,“Ifetcheduphalf-blindandbreathlesstofindmyselfmostprecariouslysupportedonlybymyice-axe,somehowcaughtacrossthecrevasseandstillheldinmyrighthand—andbelowwasaveryunpleasantblackhole.”

Malloryshoutedforhelp,buthisteammates,caughtupintheirownperils,neitherheardhimnorknewwhathadhappened.Eventuallyhe“gottiredofshouting”andmanagedtoexcavateadelicatesidewayspassageoutofthecrevasse—onlytofindhimselfonthewrongsideofit.“Ihadtocutacrossanastyslopeofveryhardiceand,furtherdown,somemixedunpleasantsnowbeforeIwasoutofthewood.”ThefourmenregainedCampIIIthoroughlyexhausted.

Evenso,theyhadfinallyreachedtheNorthCol,theplatformfromwhichallsummitattemptsmustbelaunched,andtheweathershowedsignsofameliorating.TheicechimneyMalloryhadsodeftlyledpresentedalogisticalobstacletoportersgettingloadstothecol,butfixedropeseasedthepassage,andeventuallyIrvinewovearopeladderandhungitonthechimney,turningthepitchintoareasonablescrambleforladenmen.

Then,justashopeglimmeredinMallory’sbreast,yetanotherdirepredicamentthwartedtheteam’sprogress.OnMay21,Somervell,Irvine,andHazardledtwelveportersuptotheNorthCol.WhileSomervellandIrvinedescended,HazardandtheportersremainedatCampIV,awaitingthearrivalofBruceandOdell,whoplannedtousetheporterstopushontoestablishCampV.Butasnowstormbeganthateveningandcontinuedthroughthenextday,whilethetemperatureagaindroppedto−22ºF.OdellandBruceneverleftCampIII.Thenextday,Hazarddecidedtodescendwiththeporters.

Amongtheexpeditionmembers,Hazardwasdistinctlytheoddduck.Aloner,hewasnotwelllikedbyhisteammates.AsSomervelllaterwrote,Hazard“builtapsychologicalwallroundhimself,insidewhichhelives.Occasionally,heburstsoutofthiswitha‘ByGad,thisisfine!’…Thentheshellcloses,toletnothingin.”

Now,asheledtheportersdowntheslopemadetreacherouswithnewsnow,Hazardfailedtonoticethat

fourofthembalkedandreturnedtotheirtentsatCampIV.WhenHazardshowedupatIIIwithonlyeightporters,Mallorywasfurious.“Itisdifficulttomakeouthowexactlyithappened,”hewrote;“butevidentlyhedidn’tshepherdhispartyproperlyatall.”

Thiswasperhapstooharshajudgment,asthedemandthatonemanberesponsiblefortwelveportersinmarginalconditionswasawell-nighimpossibleone.Whatthefiascomeant,however,wasthatfourporters,nodoubtterrifiedandpossiblysufferingfrostbite,werestrandedaboveallthesahibsonthemountain.

OnMay24,Somervell,Norton,andMalloryheadeduptorescuetheporters.Nortonjudgedthesituationsodesperatethat,ashelaterwrote,“Iwouldhavetakenabetoftwotooneagainstasuccessfulissuetoourundertaking.”NortonandSomervellwereoffform,but“Mallory,whoontheseoccasionslivedonhisnervousenergy,kepturginguson.”Abovetheicechimney,thesnowslopeswereloaded,readytoavalanche.Withtheothertwobelayingfromthelastsafestance,Somervellledadiagonaltraverse,usingeverybitofthe200feetofropethemenhadcarried.Heranoutoflinesometenyardsshortofthecrestofthecol.Theporters,havingheardthemenapproach,peerednervouslyovertheedge.Itwas4:00P.M.—dangerouslylate.

Norton,whospokeTibetan,coaxedtheportersintotryingtheten-yarddescenttoSomervellontheirown.Twomenmadeitsafely,buttheothertwofell,slidandtumbled,thencametorestinprecariousspotsashortdistancefromSomervell.Withnootheroption,hedrovehisaxeintotheslope,untied,fedtheropeovertheaxeshaft,and,simplyholdingtheendoftheropeinhishand,sidledtowardthetremblingporters.Withhardlyaninchtospare,hegrabbedeachbythescruffoftheneckandhoistedthembacktotheanchoredaxe.Theworn-outmenregainedCampIIIlongafterdark.

Thisdebacledemoralizedtheportersutterly.AfterMay24,onlyfifteenofthefifty-fiveporterswereofanyuseatall.Theteamdubbedthesestalwarts“Tigers,”ahortatoryepithetthathasbeencurrentonEveresteversince.Inthemeantime,however,thepartywasinsuchdisarraythatNortonhadnootherchoicethantoorderoncemoreawholesaleretreat.ByMay25,theteamhadlimpedallthewaydowntoCampI,at17,900feet.

“Ithasbeenabadtimealtogether,”wroteMallorytoRuthonMay27,inthelastlettershewouldeverreceivefromhim.“Ilookbackontremendouseffortandexhaustionanddismallookingoutofatentdoorintoaworldofsnowandvanishinghopes.”

ATHISMOSTPESSIMISTIC,MalloryhadneverforeseenaroutascompleteastheoneEveresthaddealthisteamduringtheprecedingmonth.Lesspluckymenmighthavepackedupandgonehomeatthisjuncture,withlessthanaweekofMayremaining.Instead,the1924expeditionheldwhattheycalleda“councilofwar.”

NeitherfoodnoroxygenhadyetbeencarriedtoCampIV;onlytentsandsleepingbagswerestockedthere.Norton’srevisedplanwastoforgetaltogetheraboutoxygen,inhopesthattwolight,fastpartiesoftwomeneach,supportedbyporters,couldmakeleapsonthreesuccessivedaystoCampsVandVIandthentothesummit.Theplan,ofcourse,waspieinthesky,forasyetnoclimberhadtakenasinglefootstepabovetheNorthCol.

BothSomervellandMalloryhaddevelopedrackingcoughs.MallorydescribedhistoRuth:“Inthehighcampithasbeenthedevil.Evenaftertheday’sexercise…Icouldn’tsleep,butwasdistressedwithburstsofcoughingfittotearone’sguts—andaheadacheandmiseryaltogether.”

YetNortonofferedMalloryaplaceinthefirstpair,arguingthat“thoughhehadsofarbornethebruntofthehardestwork,yettheenergyandfireofthemanwerereflectedinhiseverygesture.”Hispartner

wouldbeGeoffreyBruce,whoatthemoment,Mallorywrote,was“theonlyplumbfitman”intheparty.

Atlasttheweatherrelented,grantingtheteamseveral“cloudlesslyfineandhot”daysinarow.Despitetheirailments,theclimbersmovedefficientlyupthemountain.Malloryhadnoillusionsabouttheteam’sthinchancesofsummitting:“Itisfiftytooneagainstus,butwe’llhaveawhackyetanddoourselvesproud,”hewroteRuth.Yetheclosedhislastletterwithajauntyvow:“Sixdaystothetopfromthiscamp!”

OnJune1,forthefirsttime,climberssetoffupwardfromtheNorthCol,asMallory,Bruce,andeightportersintendedtoestablishCampVat25,300feet.Thedaywasagainsunny,butabovethecolabitterwindoutofthenorthwestswepttheface.Some300feetshortoftheirgoal,theportersflagged.Fourofthemhadtodroptheirloadsandheaddown,whiletheotherfourstumbleduptothestonyslopewhereMalloryhadalreadybeguntobuildmakeshifttentplatforms.Inaheroiceffort,BruceandSherpaLobsangferriedtheotherfourloadsuptocamp.Indoingso,however,Bruceexhaustedhimself;itwaslaterdeterminedthathehad“strainedhisheart,”andafterJune1,hewasoflittleuseonthemountain.

ThatnightthetwosahibsandthreeporterssleptatV.Inthemorning,Mallorywasreadytopushon,butBrucewastooweaktoclimb,andtheportershad,inNorton’sphrase,“shottheirbolt.”TherewasnochoicebuttoheadbackdowntoCampIV.

ThereOdellandIrvinewereinstalledinasupportingrole,cookingmealsforthesummitpairandcarryingoxygenuptothemastheydescended.Irvinechafedathisrole,writinginhisdiary,“IwishIwasinthefirstpartyinsteadofabloodyreserve.”Butduringthepreviousweek,hetoohadbeenunwell:hehadhadathree-dayboutofdiarrhea,andonMay24herecorded,“feltveryseedy.”Thesunburnthathadafflictedhisfaircomplexionformorethanamonthhadgottenworse.Themenhadbroughtvariousointments,includingzincoxide,tosmeartheirfaceswith,buttheseremediesapparentlydidIrvinelittlegood.AsearlyasApril11,hehadwritten,“Myfaceisverysorefromwindandsun…andmynoseispeelingbadly.”

OnMay24,henoted,“faceverysoreindeed.”ByJune2,thesunburnwasindangerofincapacitatingthestaunchyoungman.Thatnighthewrote,“MyfacewasbadlycutbythesunandwindontheCol,andmylipsarecrackedtobits,whichmakeseatingveryunpleasant.”

AdaybehindMalloryandBruce,NortonandSomervellformedthesecondsummitparty.Ratherthanappointhimselftothisteam,whichwouldseizetheapparentlastchanceforthesummit,NortonhadaskedMalloryandSomervelltodeterminewhoSomervell’spartnershouldbe.FromamongOdell,Irvine,Hazard,andNorton,theyhadnominatedNorton.Itwouldproveawisechoice.

NortonandSomervelllefttheNorthColwithsixcarefullyselectedTigersonJune2.Stilltheweatherheld.Theycarriedtheirowntentandsleepingbags,foriftheplanhadworked,MalloryandBrucewouldatthemomentbepushingontoestablishCampVI,andallfourEnglishmenwouldneedtentsandbagsatbothVandVI.

InTheFightforEverest,Nortongivesadetaileddescriptionoftheclothingheworethatday—astate-of-the-artwardrobefor1924.Itmakesforastartlingcontrastwiththedownsuitsandplasticbootsoftoday’sEverestclimber:

PersonallyIworethickwoollenvestanddrawers,athickflannelshirtandtwosweatersunderalightishknickerbockersuitofwindproofgaberdinetheknickersofwhichwerelinedwithlightflannel,apairofsoftelasticKashmirputties[anklewraps,thepredecessorsofmoderngaiters]andapairofbootsoffeltboundandsoledwithleatherandlightlynailedwiththeusualAlpinenails.Over

allIworeaverylightpyjamasuitofMessrs.Burberry’s“Shackleton”windproofgaberdine.OnmyhandsIworeapairoflongfingerlesswoollenmitsinsideasimilarpairmadeofgaberdine;thoughwhenstep-cuttingnecessitatedasensitiveholdontheaxe-haft,Isometimessubstitutedapairofsilkmitsfortheinnerwoollenpair.OnmyheadIworeafur-linedleathermotor-cyclinghelmet,andmyeyesandnosewereprotectedbyapairofgogglesofCrookes’sglass,whichweresewnintoaleathermaskthatcamewelloverthenoseandcoveredanypartofmyfacewhichwasnotnaturallyprotectedbymybeard.Ahugewoollenmufflercompletedmycostume.

Neithermanworecrampons,fordespiteIrvine’stinkering,noonehadyetfiguredoutawaytostraptheseinvaluablespikestoone’sbootswithoutcuttingoffcirculationtothefeet.

Onthewayup,NortonandSomervellweredismayedtomeetoneofMallory’sSherpasdescending.Fromhim,theylearnedofthefirstparty’sturnaround,thencrossedpathswiththeirfriendsastheydespondentlyclumpeddowntotheNorthCol.Continuingwithonlyfourporters,SomervellandNortonreachedCampVat1:00P.M.,wheretheysettledintocookandgetwarm.

Loweronthemountain,themenhadcookedonPrimusstovesusingliquidfuel;abovetheNorthCol,however,theypreferredUnnacookersthatburnedasolidcakeofMetafuelmadeinFrance.Thechoreofmakingdinnerwasoneallthemendetested.AsNortonputit,“Iknownothing—noteventheexertionofsteepclimbingattheseheights—whichissoutterlyexhaustingorwhichcallsformoredeterminationthanthishatefuldutyofhigh-altitudecooking.”

Scoopingpotsfullofsnowtomelt,heatingthewatertoitstepidboilingpointataltitude,fillingThermosflaskswithhotwaterorteaforthemorrow,washingupthegreasypots—andthen,“Perhapsthemosthatefulpartoftheprocessisthatsomeoftheresultantmessmustbeeaten,andthisitselfisonlyachievedbywillpower:thereisbutlittledesiretoeat—sometimesindeedasenseofnauseaatthebareidea—thoughofdrinkonecannothaveenough.”

Inthemorning,themendidnotgetoffuntil9:00A.M.,sodifficultwasitforNortontopersuadethreeofthefourporterstocontinue.“Iremembersaying,‘Ifyouputusupacampat27,000feetandwereachthetop,yournamesshallappearinlettersofgoldinthebookthatwillbewrittentodescribetheachievement.’”

Despitethelatestart,theclimbonJune3wentsmoothlyenough;theweatherwasstillfine,withevenlesswindthanthedaybefore.Somervell’scoughgavehimsomuchtroublehehadtostopnowandthen.Evenso,thetwoEnglishmenpassedtheirown1922highpointof26,000feetjustafternoon,andlatertheyexceededFinchandGeoffreyBruce’smarkof26,500feet.Sendingthethreeportersback,SomervellandNortonpitchedCampVIat26,800feet,onceagainshoringupatentplatformbypilingloosestones.Theywerehigherthanhumanbeingshadeverbeenonearth.

Afteramonthofdemoralizingsetbacks,ofignominiousdefeatstaringthemintheface,thetwomendaredbelievethatthesummitmightbewithintheirgrasp.Nortonsleptwell,Somervelltolerably.“TrulyitisnoteasytomakeanearlystartonMountEverest!”Nortonwouldwrite.YetonJune4,themenweremovingby6:40A.M.

Afteranhour,thepairreachedthefootofthebrokencliffsthatwouldcometobeknownastheYellowBand.Theyhadtopped27,000feet,withthesummitabout2,000feetabovethem.Movingdiagonallyupandright,NortonandSomervellfoundeasygoingonledgesthatledonetothenext.

ItwasherethatNortonpurposelydivergedfromtheridgeroutethathadalwaysbeenfavoredbyMallory.Tohiseye,along,graduallyascendingtraversetowardwhatwouldcometobecalledtheGreatCouloir

affordedthebestlineontheuppernorthface.Thedayremainedperfect,thoughthemenclimbedinbittercold.

Yetnow,withthetoptantalizinglyclose,themenbegantosuccumbtotheawfulravagesofaltitude.Somervell’scoughhadgrownalarming,necessitatingfrequentstops.Nortonhadmadethemistakeoftakingoffhisgoggleswhenhewasonrock:at27,500feet,hestartedseeingdouble.Withoutoxygen,themenwereslowedtoacrawl.“Ourpacewaswretched,”Nortonlaterwrote.Hesethimselfthegoaloftakingtwentystepswithoutarest,butnevermademorethanthirteen:“wemusthavelookedaverysorrycouple.”

Bynoon,however,thetwomenwereapproachingthetopoftheYellowBand.Theyweresome500or600feetbelowthecrestofthesummitridge,welltothewestoftheFirstStep.Allatonce,Somervellannouncedthathecouldgonofarther,butheencouragedhispartnertocontinuealone.Withweary,carefulsteps,Nortonpushedon,traversingfartherrightalongthetopoftheYellowBand.Heturnedtwocorners,theseconddirectlybelowtheskylinefeaturetheteamhadnamedtheSecondStep—“whichlookedsoformidableanobstaclewhereitcrossedtheridge,”Nortonprescientlywrote,“thatwehadchosenthelowerrouteratherthantryandsurmountit.”

Beyondthesecondcorner,thegoingabruptlygotworse,astheslopesteepenedandthedownsloping“tiles”underfootgrewtreacherous.TwiceNortonhadtobacktrackinhisstepsandtryanotherapproach.Stillhepushedon,atlastreachingtheGreatCouloir.

There,suddenly,hewadedthroughknee-andevenwaist-deepunconsolidatedsnow.Inamoment,thefullterrorofhispredicamentcamehometohim:

Ifoundmyselfsteppingfromtiletotile,asitwere,eachtileslopingsmoothlyandsteeplydownwards;IbegantofeelthatIwastoomuchdependentonthemerefrictionofabootnailontheslabs.Itwasnotexactlydifficultgoing,butitwasadangerousplaceforasingleunropedclimber,asoneslipwouldhavesentmeinallprobabilitytothebottomofthemountain.ThestrainofclimbingsocarefullywasbeginningtotellandIwasgettingexhausted.Inadditionmyeyetroublewasgettingworseandwasbynowaseverehandicap.

Nortonturnedaround.Hewasonly300yardswestofSomervell,and100feethigher,but,asoftenhappenswhenaclimberacknowledgesdefeat,akindofmentalcollapsenowseizedtheman.Asheapproachedhispartner,facingapatchofsnowthinlyoverlyingslopingrocks—groundhehadwalkedeasilyacrossperhapshalfanhourbefore—helosthisnerve.NortonpleadedforSomervelltothrowhimarope.Oncetiedin,heaccomplishedthecrossing.

TheexpeditionwouldlaterfixNorton’shighpointas28,126feet—only900feetbelowthesummitoftheworld,whichstands29,028feetabovesealevel.UnlessMalloryandIrvinereachedagreaterheightfourdayslater,Norton’saltituderecordwouldstandforthenexttwenty-eightyears.Hisoxygenlessrecordwouldlasttwenty-sixmore,untilPeterHabelerandReinholdMessnersummittedwithoutgasin1978.

Startingdownat2:00P.M.,themenstayedropedtogetherallthewaybacktoCampVI.Alongtheway,Somervelldroppedhisiceaxeandwatchedasitboundedoutofsight.AtVI,hereplaceditwithatentpole.

Bysunset,themen,nowunroped,hadreachedCampV.Ratherthanspendamiserablenightononeofitssloping,inadequatetentplatforms,theduopushedondownintothedusk,aimingforCampIV.Andhere,Somervellnearlylosthislife.Glissadingahead,Nortonnoticedthathispartnerhadstoppedabove.Allduringtheexpedition,Somervellhadpaintedskillfulwatercolorsofthescenery(anumberofthe

paintingswerepublishedinTheFightforEverest).Histhinkingaddledbyaltitude,Nortonnowguessedthathisfriendhadstoppedtomakeasketchorpaintingofthemountainsbathedintheirtwilightglow.Infact,Somervell’sworstcoughingfitsofarhadseemedtolodgesomeobjectinhisthroatthatthreatenedtochokehim.Atlasthecougheditlooseinanexplosionofbloodandmucus.ItwaslaterdeterminedthatSomervellhadcougheduptheliningofhislarynx.

AsNortonstaggereddowntotheNorthColinthelastlight,MalloryandOdellcameuptomeethimandguidehimthroughthecrevasse-rivenshelfjustabovecamp.Oneofthemenshoutedthathewasbringinganoxygencylinder.Nortonyelledback,againandagain,inafeeblewail,“Wedon’twantthedamnedoxygen;wewantdrink!”

SOMIGHTTHE1924EXPEDITIONhaveended,withanextremelygallantstabbyNortonandSomervellthathadestablishedanewworldaltituderecord.Themonsoonwouldbeuponthemountainanydaynow.YetasheregainedtheNorthCol,NortonlearnedthatMalloryhaddecided,intheeventofthesecondattemptfailingbelowthesummit,tomakeonelastpush—withoxygen.AfterdescendinghimselffromCampVonJune2,MalloryhadorganizedaportercarryfromCampIIIthathadwrestledaquantityofbottlesuptotheNorthCol.Nortonexpressedhisapproval;privately,he“wasfullofadmirationfortheindomitablespiritoftheman.”HedemurredonlyinwishingMalloryhadchosenOdellforhispartnerratherthanIrvine.

InthemiddleofthenightofJune4-5,Nortonwokeupwithaterriblepaininhiseyes,tofindthathehadgonesnow-blind.Hecoulddonothingthenextdaytohelphisfriendsorganizetheirassaultexcepttalktotheportersintheirownlanguage.ThekeytocommunicatingwiththesevitalalliesaboveCampIVonthetwopreviousattemptshadbeenNorton’sandBruce’scompetenceintheirlanguage.Malloryhada“smatteringofHindustani,”butIrvinespokescarcelyawordofanytonguetheSherpasunderstood.

At7:30inthemorningofJune6,Nortonsaidgoodbyetothesummitpair.“Mylastimpressionofmyfriendswasahandshakeandawordofblessing.”Stillblind,hecouldnotwatchthemenmoveoffamongthesnowhumpsandcrevassestowardthenorthface.Laterthatday,NortonwentdowntoCampIII,sohelplessthatsixportershadtotaketurnscarryinghimalongthemoraine.Duringthenextfourdays,wroteNorton,“weweretopassthrougheverysuccessivestageofsuspenseandanxietyfromhighhopetohopelessness,”untilCampIIIwouldeventuallylodgeinhismemoryas“themosthatefulplaceintheworld.”

NoelOdell,thesoleclimberleftfitenoughtoserveinsupport,wouldspendelevendaysatorabovetheNorthCol,aperformance,asNortonlaterputit,with“noequalinourshortrecordofhighclimbing.”OdelltoowasfullofadmirationforMallory’sindomitablewill.Aswascharacteristicoftheman,Odellborehisownexclusionfromthesummitpartywithserenemagnanimity.

Despitetheirailments,usingoxygenMalloryandIrvinehadcomeupfromCampIIItoIVonthislastpushinonlytwoandahalfhours—atimethatsomeofthestrongestclimbersinthe1990swouldbeproudof.Uptillthelastminute,Irvinehadfussedwiththeoxygensets,jury-riggingfinaladjustments.

Hisspiritmustalsohavebeenindomitable,forhecannothavegottenmuchsleepduringhislastnightsontheNorthCol.ThefinaldiaryentriesrevealjusthowbadlyIrvinewassufferingfromhissunburn.OnJune3:“Amostunpleasantnightwheneverythingonearthseemedtorubagainstmyface,andeachtimeitwastouchedbitsofburntanddryskincameoff,whichmademenearlyscreamwithpain.”June5,ontheeveofdeparture:“Myfaceisperfectagony.”

Despitehavingslavedformorethanamonthtoimprovetheoxygenapparatus,IrvinetoldOdellthat“hewouldratherreachthefootofthefinalpyramidwithouttheuseofoxygenthanthesummitbymeansofits

aid!Hethoughtthatifitwereworthwhiledoingatall,itwasworthwhiledoingwithoutartificialmeans.”Suchapuristsentimentwouldscarcelybevoicedagainforthenextfiftyyears.

At8:40A.M.onJune6,usingoxygen,witheightlightlyburdenedportersgoingwithout,MalloryandIrvinelefttheNorthCol.Odelltookapictureofthetwo:byhisownadmissionahurriedsnapshot,themen’sfeaturesunrecognizableastheyputterwithgear,ithasnonethelessbeenreprintedhundredsoftimesover,foritisthelastphototakenofeitherman—unlessthereareimageslyingdormantinthecelluloidinsideMallory’sVestpocketcamera,lostsomewherestillonEverest.

Aclearmorningdeterioratedintoacloudydaywitheveningsnow.At5:00P.M.,fouroftheportersreturnedfromthenorthface,withanotefromMallory,ensconcedinCampV:“Thereisnowindhere,andthingslookhopeful.”

Thenextday,asplanned,OdellandaSherpaclimbedtoCampV.Soonaftertheygotthere,theremainingfourportersdescendedfromabove,bringinganothermessage,thisonefromCampVIat26,800feet:

DearOdell,—

We’reawfullysorrytohaveleftthingsinsuchamess—ourUnnaCookerrolleddowntheslopeatthelastmoment.BesureofgettingbacktoIVto-morrowintimetoevacuatebeforedark,asIhopeto.InthetentImusthaveleftacompass—fortheLord’ssakerescueit:wearewithout.Tohereon90atmospheresforthetwodays—sowe’llprobablygoontwocylinders—butit’sabloodyloadforclimbing.Perfectweatherforthejob!

Yoursever,

G.Mallory

Totheend,Mallorywasdoggedbyhisforgetfulnessandmechanicalineptitude.Thelossofthecookstovewasominous,forunlessthemenhadalreadyfilledtheirThermoseswithwaterorteabeforeit“rolleddowntheslope,”theywouldbehardputtomeltanysnowforbreakfastortocarryontheclimb.Nothavingacompass(OdellinfactfoundtheinstrumentinthetentatV)wouldbelessconsequentialonsummitday,unlessthepairwereengulfedinawhite-out.The“90atmospheres,”Odellknew,amountedtoaflowofaboutthreequartersoftherig’scapacity.Atthatrate,eachbottleoughttohavelastedatleastfourhours.IfthemencarriedtwocylindersapieceonJune8,theyshouldhavebeenabletoclimbforeighthoursbreathinggas.

WiththemessagetoOdellwastheonetoJohnNoel,exhortingthemenloweronthemountaintostartlookingforMalloryandIrvine“eithercrossingtherockbandunderthepyramidorgoinguptheskylineat8.0p.m.”Odellreadthisnote,assumingatonce,asallhistorianshave,thatMallorymeant8:00A.M.onJune8.

AftersendingthefiveSherpasdown,OdellspentapeacefulnightaloneatCampV.Thesunsettransportedhim,ashegazedinthreedirectionsatdistantpeakssharplyetchedintheclearair,includingthemassivesprawlofpeakssurroundingKangchenjunga,theworld’sthird-highestmountain,100milestotheeast.“Ithasbeenmygoodfortunetoclimbmanypeaksaloneandwitnesssunsetfromnotafew,”helaterwrote,“butthiswasthecrowningexperienceofthemall,anineffabletranscendentexperiencethatcanneverfadefrommemory.”

OdellstartedouttoclimbtoCampVIat8:00A.M.onJune8.Thedayhaddawnedclear,butbymid-morning“rollingbanksofmistcommencedtoformandsweepfromthewestwardacrossthegreatfaceofthemountain.”Thewind,however,waslight.Thedayseemedpropitiousforasummitclimb.“Ihadno

qualmsforMalloryandIrvine’sprogressupwardfromCampVI,”Odellreported,“andIhopedbythistimethattheywouldbewellontheirwayupthefinalpyramid.”

Stillclimbingwithoutoxygen,Odellwasbynowsocompletelyinhiselementthat,ratherthantaketheshortestapproachtoCampVI,hewanderedaboutthenorthface,appraisingitsgeology,discoveringhisbelovedfossils.Justafternoon,heclimbedthe“littlecrag”at26,000feet,staredattheskylineridge,andmadehislegendarysighting.There,some2,000feetabovehim,hewatchedastheleadfigurequicklyclimbedtothetopofastepontheridge,thenwaitedasthesecondfigurefollowed,bothmen“movingexpeditiouslyasifendeavouringtomakeupforlosttime.”Thenthecloudsmovedinagain,blockinghisview.

Itwas12:50P.M.,fivehourslaterthanthe8:00A.M.appearanceMalloryhadseemedtopredictinhisnotetoJohnNoel.Odellnowfeltamildalarm,buthelistedtohimselfallthereasonsthatcouldhavecontributedtohisfriends’delay.(Curiously,fewcommentatorsinthelastseventy-fiveyearshavewonderedwhetherMallory’s8:00A.M.predictionmighthavesimplybeenthefinalexampleofhisunderestimatingthemountain.NopartyhadyetmanagedtoleaveahighcamponEverestbefore6:30A.M.,andtheskylineridgelaymorethan1,200feetaboveCampVI.)

Inthemidstofasnowsquall,OdellreachedVIat2:00P.M.TherehewasdisappointedtofindnonotefromMallorychroniclingthepair’sdeparture,andfurtherdisturbedtoseepiecesofoxygenapparatusstrewnaboutthetent.YethewouldnotconcludefromthedebristhatIrvinehadmadedesperatelast-minuterepairs;instead,herationalizedthathisprotégémightsimplyhave“inventedsomeproblemtobesolvedevenifitneverreallyhadturnedup!Helovedtodwellamongst,nay,revelledin,piecesofapparatusandalitteroftools.”

OdelldidnotnoticethatMalloryhadlefthisflashlightinthetent—yetanotherinstance,andapotentiallyweightyone,ofhisabsentmindedness.Theflashlightwouldberediscoveredbymembersofthe1933Everestexpedition,whoturnedonitsswitchandfoundthatitstillfunctionednineyearsafterithadbeenleftthere.

HopingtofindhisfriendsontheirwaydownandguidethembacktoCampVI,Odellclimbedanother200feetindenseclouds,whistlingandyodelingtosignalhispresence.Then,realizingthatitwastooearlytoexpectthepair’sreturn,hemadehiswaybacktoCampVI.Justashegotthere,thesquallendedandthemountainclearedagain.Now,however,Odellcouldseenothing,althoughwarmafternoonlightbathedthemountain’supperslopes.

Helingereduntil4:30P.M.,then,inobediencetoMallory’snote,startedbackdownthemountain,notbeforeleavingMallory’scompass,whichhehadretrievedfromCampV,in“aconspicuousplaceinthecornerofthetentbythedoor”—less,onesuspects,toenablehisfriendstonavigatedowntotheNorthColthanasacharmagainstthefates.OdellreachedCampVat6:15P.M.,then,glissadingmuchoftheway,descendedthe2,300feettotheNorthColintheastonishingtimeofthirtyminutes.

AmongtheEnglishmen,therewasonlyHazardtheretogreethim.Theothers,stillweakenedbytheirordealsofthelastfewdays,wereconvalescingatCampIII.OntheeveningofJune8,everyonestaredforhoursattheupperslopesofEverest,hopingtoseethebeamofaflashlightoreventheflamingburstofoneoftheemergencyflarestheportershadcarriedtoCampVI;buttheysawnothing.Stillrationalizingawayhisfears,Odellhopedthatmoonlightreflectedoffsummitstothewestmighthaveaidedhisfriends’descent.

Allnextmorning,HazardandOdellsweptthemountainwithfieldglasses,detectingnosignsoflife.Unabletobearthisidlevigil,atnoonOdellstartedupthenorthfaceagainwithtwoSherpas.Thewell-

restedHazarddidnotevenconsiderjoininghim,forhehadreachedhislimitat23,000feet.

ThethreemenreachedCampVthatafternoon,thenspentasleeplessnightasanastywindthreatenedtotearthetentsloose.OnthemorningofJune10,withthewindstillfierceandcold,thetwoSherpaswereincapableofcontinuing.OdellsentthembackdowntotheNorthCol,thensetoutalonetoclimbtoCampVI.Forthefirsttime,hebreathedbottledoxygeninhopesitwouldaidhisperformance,but,truetohisingrainedskepticism,turnedofftheapparatuspartwayupand“experiencednoneofthosefeelingsofcollapseandpantingthatonehadbeenledtobelieveoughttoresult.”Luggingtheuselesscontraptiononhisback,OdellmarchedonuptoVI,reachingitatmidday.

Odell’sownaccountdoesnotdwellontheterribleshockofhisdiscovery.Inthemostunderstatedfashion,hementionssimplythat“IfoundeverythingasIhadleftit:thetenthadobviouslynotbeentouchedsinceIwastheretwodayspreviously.”Dumpingtheoxygenset,heatoncepushedonabovetosearchforsometraceofhiscompanions,evenastheweatherdeteriorated.

Inastateofheightenedawarenessthatthedawningtragedyhadspurredinhim,Odellwasnowgrantedsomethinglikearevelation:

ThisupperpartofEverestmustbeindeedtheremotestandleasthospitablespotonearth,butatnotimemoreemphaticallyandimpressivelysothanwhenadarkenedatmospherehidesitsfeaturesandagaleracesoveritscruelface.Andhowandwhenmorecruelcoulditeverseemthanwhenbalkingone’severysteptofindone’sfriends?

Odellstruggledonforalmosttwohours,findingnothing.BackatCampVI,hecrawledintothetenttotakeshelterfromthegnawingwind.Then,duringalull,hedraggedtwosleepingbagsuptoaprecarioussnowpatchabovethetentandlaidthemoutintheformofaT.Fourthousandfeetbelow,lookingwithfieldglasses,Hazardsawtheprearrangedsignalandknewtheworst.

AtlastOdellclosedupthetentandheadeddown.AshetookonemorelookatEverest’sdistantsummit,hisrevelationoftheutterinhumanityofthegreatmountainreachedaspiritualpitch:

Itseemedtolookdownwithcoldindifferenceonme,merepunyman,andhowlderisioninwind-gustsatmypetitiontoyieldupitssecret—thismysteryofmyfriends.WhatrighthadwetoventurethusfarintotheholypresenceoftheSupremeGoddess…?IfitwereindeedthesacredgroundofChomolungma—GoddessMotheroftheMountainSnows,hadweviolatedit—wasInowviolatingit?

Inthatfreightedmoment,chilledtothesoulbythemountain’sindifference,Odellallatonceheardthesiren’ssong:

AndyetasIgazedagainanothermoodappearedtocreepoverherhauntingfeatures.Thereseemedtobesomethingalluringinthattoweringpresence.Iwasalmostfascinated.Irealizedthatnomeremountaineeralonecouldbutbefascinated,thathewhoapproachesclosemusteverbeledon,andobliviousofallobstaclesseektoreachthatmostsacredandhighestplaceofall.Itseemedthatmyfriendsmusthavebeenthusenchantedalso:forwhyelseshouldtheytarry?

Loweronthemountain,Odell’steammateshadpassedtheselastfewdaysinanagonyofignorance.Inhopesofcuringhisthroatproblems,SomervellhaddescendedallthewaytoBaseCamp.OnJune11,hewroteinhisdiary,“Nonews.Itisominous.”Andthenextday,afterseveralcomradeshadarrivedwiththeirtidings:“Therewereonlytwopossibilities—accidentorbenightment.Itisterrible.Butthereare

fewbetterdeathsthantodieinhighendeavour,andEverestisthefinestcenotaphintheworld.”

ByJune12,thewholeexpeditionhadgatheredatBaseCamp.WroteNortonlater:

Wewereasadlittleparty;fromthefirstweacceptedthelossofourcomradesinthatrationalspiritwhichallofourgenerationhadlearntintheGreatWar,andtherewasneveranytendencytoamorbidharpingontheirrevocable.Butthetragedywasverynear;ourfriends’vacanttentsandvacantplacesattablewereaconstantremindertousofwhattheatmosphereofthecampwouldhavebeenhadthingsgonedifferently.

ThemenmightacceptthelossofMalloryandIrvine,buttheycouldnotresolvethemysteryofwhathadhappenedtothem.AstheyretreatedfromMountEverest,theyspeculatedceaselesslyastohowtheirfriendshadmettheirend.Fortherestoftheirlives—JohnNoelthelasttodie,justshortofhisonehundredthbirthday—theywouldcontinuetowonderandspeculate,turningoverandoverlikepotsherdsthefragmentarycluestheyhadtobasetheirguesseson.

7TheSecondStep

CA

BYMAY15,SIXOFUShadreoccupiedCampV,at25,600feet.Wehadtwoseparateagendas:togoforthesummitandtoconductasecondsearch.Itwasn’tpredeterminedwhowoulddowhich.TapRichards,JakeNorton,andIweremotivatedtoclimbthemountain,becausewehadn’tbeenonEverestbefore.

Intheend,ThomPollardandAndyPolitzvolunteeredtomakethesecondsearch.Andywaswillingtoforgothesummitbecausehe’dclimbedEverestandbecausehe’dgottencaughtupinthesearch.Irvine’sbodyandtheall-importantcamerastillremainedtobefound.Thomwasnot,strictlyspeaking,partofSimo’steam:he’dbeenhiredbyNOVAtoshootvideoandtakedigitalpictures,sohefeltitwashisresponsibilitytogowiththesearch.He’dactuallysetoutonthefirstsearchonMay1,buthehadhadtroublewithhisoxygenandhadtoturnback.

Afterwe’dfoundMallory,theobviousgoalofasecondsearchwastolookforIrvineandtheKodakVestpocketcamera.ButbyMay15,enoughsnowhadfallenthatitseemedunlikelywecouldfindIrvine.AndyandThomdecidedinsteadtogobacktoMallory,useametaldetector,andmakesurewehadn’tmissedanythingonMay1.

OnMay16,thefourofuswhowereheadedforthesummitclimbedupfromCampVtoCampVI.AndyandThomcameupwithus,carryingloadstoaidoursummitpush,helpeduspitchcamp,andthentraversedtothewesttowardMallory’sbody.

I’dnevermetAndybeforetheexpedition,butIknewhimbyreputation.He’dbeentoEverestfourtimesbeforeandhadsummittedfromthenorthwithSimoin1991.He’saverystrongclimber,thirty-nineyearsold,fromColumbus,Ohio.Forfifteenyearshewasamountainguide;nowheworksasaschoolteacherandasariggerforfilmsandcommercials.He’salsoanaccomplishedseakayaker,sailor,andboatbuilder.Mostoftheguysontheexpeditiontendedtobelongandlean,likeme,butAndy’sbuiltlikeafireplug.He’snottall,andhisforearmsarelikeoakstumps.Theguyjustexudespower.

Thom’sayearolderthanI,atthirty-seven,slenderandrathergentle-looking.He’saclimberofmoderateabilities,andhedidn’thaveasmuchbig-mountainexperienceastherestofus,withoneexpeditiontoGasherbrumIIintheKarakoramunderhisbelt.Onthetrailhewasreallystrong.Hehasaribaldsenseofhumor—he’saverywittyguy.Hewasapleasuretobewithonthistrip,becausehewouldspeakhismind;he’shonestwithotherpeople.MuchlikeNoelOdellin1924,Thomgotstrongerastheexpeditionprogressed.

Thomwasinanawkwardlimbo,becausehewasn’tofficiallyamemberoftheclimbingteam,yethehadthesameresponsibilitiesastherestofus.WheneverSimocalledfora“mandatorygroupmeeting,”thequestionwas,IsThomexpectedtoattendornot?Butheservedasavaluablebridgebetweentheclimbersandthefilmcrew.

Becausethey’dcarriedloadsforusfromCampVtoCampVIonthesixteenth,ThomandAndygotarelativelylatestartonthesecondsearch.Theydidn’tbranchofftothewestuntilabout2:30inthe

afternoon.Theywerebothusingoxygen.LaterThomtoldmeabouttheirdayat26,700feet.

SinceonlyAndyhadbeentothesitebefore,ThomhadtodependonhimtorelocateMalloryinthemakeshiftgraveofstoneswe’dpiledup.Theplanwastoheadstraightforthesite,butthisturnedouttobeeasiersaidthandone.“Andyjustkeptwalkingandwalking,notsayinganything,”Thomtoldmelater.“AfterawhileIsaidtomyself,‘Iknowhe’slost.’FinallyAndysaid,‘Ican’tfindhim.’‘You’vegottabekiddin’me,’Isaid.”

ThepairsweptbackandforthacrosstheledgeswhereAndythoughtthegravemustbe;withthenewsnow,everythinglookeddifferent.Finally,aftertwohoursofwandering,theirlaborwasrewarded.

Atthescene,Thomwasstruckdumb.“Itevokedsomethingdeeplyspiritual,”herecalledlater.“Ikeptthinking,thisisoneofthegreatestfiguresinthehistoryofmountaineering.Igotdownonmykneesandaskedforguidance.Iprayed,inessence,forguidancenottodesecratethesite.”

Workingsilently,thetwomenremovedthestonesthatcoveredthebody.Withthemetaldetector,Andyfoundan“artifact”ourfirstteamhadmissed.Inhispantspocket,Malloryhadstuckawristwatch.Theglasswasgonefromitsface,andtheminuteandsecondhandswerebrokenoff,buttheshorthourhandpointedtobetweenoneandtwo,alittleclosertotwo.(Later,thehourhandwasaccidentallybrokenoffastheycarriedthewatchdowntoBaseCamp.)

ThepositionofthathandmightbeacluetowhathappenedtoMalloryandIrvine.Diditimplythattheaccidenthadoccurredaround1:40?Ifso,1:40P.M.,lessthananhourafterOdell’ssighting,or1:40A.M.,inthemiddleofadesperatedescentinthenightwithoutaflashlight?Orhadthewatchstoppedworkingbeforetheaccident,andMalloryhadstuckitintohispocket?OrhaditsimplywounddownafterMallory’sdeath?

Andypulledlooseasectionoftheropetocarrydown—theropewassoweathered,itbrokewithastrongtug.AndheremovedthehobnailedbootfromMallory’sbrokenrightleg.Theybroughtthoseobjectsdown,toaddtothecollectionofartifacts.

ThomdecidedhewantedtolookatMallory’sface,whichwasstillfrozenintothescree.Hecutawaytheiceanddirtascarefullyashecould;ashelaterputit,“Itwaslikediggingintoyourdriveway.”Atlasthegotthefacefreedupenoughsothat,lyingontheground,hecouldlookstraightatGeorgeMallory.

“Thefacewasinperfectcondition,”Thomsaid.“Itwaseversoslightlydistorted—pancaked,ineffect—bytheyearsofbearingtheweightofsnow.Hiseyeswereclosed.Icouldstillseewhiskersonhischin.”

Ashemadehisinvestigation,ThomfoundthewoundthatmayhavecausedMallory’sdeath.“Overhislefteye,therewasahole.Therewasdriedblood,andtwopiecesofskullstickingout.Itwasasthoughsomeonehadtakenaballpeenhammerandsmashedinhisforehead.”

FinallyAndyandThomreburiedthebodyunderthestones.Justashehadthefirsttime,AndyreadPsalm103.

TheygotbacktoCampVlate,rappellingthefixedropesinthedark.AstheypassednearusatCampVI,theytalkedtousontheradio.Wewantedtoknowwhetherthey’dfoundanything,butonceagainwewereleeryofourbroadcastsbeingmonitoredbyotherexpeditions.DaveHahn,whoknowsMorsecode,wantedtosetupasignalofradioclicks:threeclicksfollowedbytwoclickswouldmeanthey’dfoundsomething.ButIthoughtthatcouldbetoohardtoremember,especiallyataltitude,soIcameupwithanotheridea.

ThecodewasformetoaskAndyovertheradio,“DoyoustillthinkI’manasshole?”Thekindofbanterclimberstradeonthemountainallthetime.

NowAndyradioedback,“Yeah,you’restillanasshole.”That’showweknewthey’dfoundsomething—butwedidn’tknowwhatuntilacoupleofdayslater.

BYLATEAFTERNOONONMAY16,wehadourtentspitchedatCampVI,justunder27,000feet.JakeNortonandIsharedonetent,DaveHahnandTapRichardsanother,andourtwostrongestSherpas,who’dcomeallthewayupfromtheNorthColthatday,athird.TheywereAngPasangandDaNuru,orDawaforshort;amongalltheSherpasonourteam,theywerethetwowhohopedtogotothetop.Inaddition,Dawawasthesirdarorheadmanfortheexpedition.AngPasangandDawawereolderandmoreexperiencedthanmostoftheotherSherpas,andIthoughttheyhadagoodchanceofsummitting.ForSherpas,gettingtothetopofEverestisimportant;thosewhohavesummittedfrombothsidesareguaranteedsteadywork.TherecordformostascentsofEverest—ten—isheldbyaSherpa,AngRita.

Jake’sandmytentfacedwest.Thatevening,wewatchedamagnificentsunsetthroughthedoor,andfifteenminutesaftersunset,inthealpenglow,allthecloudsdissipated.WecouldseeChoOyu,Pumori,GyachungKang,andtheKhumbuvalley.Asthesunsetontheseloftysentinels,awarmeveningglowenhancedthewindlesscalm.Ifeltthatitwasgoingtobeagooddayinthemorning.

It’sdifficulttosleepthathigh.Youhaveallthisanticipationandexcitement,andyou’replanningtogetupatmidnightsoyoucanbeoffby2:00A.M.I’dgetaboutfifteenminutesofrandomsleepoutofeachhour.ThelasthourIlapsedintoadeepsleep,andthenallofasuddenIhadtowakeup.

AngPasangandDawawerealittleslowgettingoutoftheirsleepingbags.Wekeptholleringovertothemtogetstarted.Thenmyheadlampbulbsnappedinthecold,andDavehadtoshinehislightonmylightwhileIfiddledwiththesparebulbinthedark.Theheadlampiscrucialtomovinginthedarkandstayingwarm.Assoonasyoustopinthepredawncold,youturnintoaPopsicle.

Withonethingandanother,wedidn’tgetoffuntil2:30onMay17.InhalfanhourwereachedthefootoftheYellowBand,wheretherockchangesfromgrayschistoseshaletoatawnylimestone.Inthedark,itwashardtofindthebottomofthefixedropesthatmarktheroutethroughtheYellowBand.OnlyDavehadbeentherebefore,andhewasabletopointoutwherethefixedlinesstarted.

Therewereoldropesfrompreviousyearsonthesepitches,butIwasn’tabouttotrustthem.I’mverysuspiciousoffixedlines.Whosettheropeandhowlongago?Whatisitanchoredto?

Westrungoutourownfixedropehere,andIwasinchargeofanchoringit.Ifeltthatitwasmyresponsibilitytoensurethesafetynotonlyofmyteammates,butoftheSherpas.They’repaidtobehere,andthey’reputtingonehundredpercenttrustinthoselines.Ifthelinesarenotsecure,you’reendangeringtheirlives.

Eachofushadasingleascenderattachedtohisharness,whichhewouldslideupthefixedropeasheclimbed,sometimesusingittopullon.Wewereclimbingincrampons,evenontherock.Itwasprettymuchpitchdarkstill;therewasasliverofoldmoon,butitdidn’tgivemuchlight.Justasdawnstartedtobreak,wetoppedoutoftheYellowBand.Thisisanothertrickyplace,becausecomingdown,whenyoumightbeexhausted,youneedtofindthetopofthefixedropes.JakeandTapwerereallyheads-uphere:anticipatingtheroute-findingproblem,theystucklongpicketsintothesnow,thentiedflaggingtotheheadsofthepickets,tomakeaveryvisiblemarker.

AtthetopoftheYellowBand,wewerefinallyonthenortheastridge.Bynowwehadturnedoffourheadlamps.Thewindwasalittlebrisk,butitwasn’thammeringus.Alenticularcloudwasformingonthesummit,whichisusuallynotagoodsign.Wetuckedourselvesintotheshelterofaboulderandhadourfirstdiscussion.

TapandJakearebothtwenty-five,morethanadecadeyoungerthanDaveandI.IoftensharedatentwithJake;wereallyhititoff,Ithinkbecauseourpacesandcycleswereverysimilar.I’dfirstmethiminKathmanduin1996,whenwehappenedtostayinthesamehotel.Itwasgoodtoseehimagainonthisexpedition.

Jakehasdonesomeguiding,buthemakesalivingrefurbishingoldhousesandrentingoutunitsinColoradoSprings,wherehelives.He’dspentconsiderabletimeinKathmandu,studyingBuddhism,andhadlearnedtospeakNepali.Soourviewsandvalueswereremarkablycompatible.

Jake’sagenuinelyniceandhonestperson.Henevergotupsetaboutanything.Onourexpedition,IthoughtofJakeasthestrongestmember.Wheneverwehadtobuildcampsites,he’dcarryahugenumberofrocks.OnthelongtrektoABC,JakewouldkeeppacewiththeSherpas,chattingawayinNepali.He’saboutsixfeetoneortwo,170pounds,abig,lankyguy,aboutthesamesizeandheightasme.

Tap’saninchortwoshorter,andevenleanerthanI—alsoalankyfellow.Hetoowasverystrong.He’dbeenonseveralHimalayanexpeditionsandwassensitivetothenuancesofgettingalongwithteammatesinaninhospitableplace.TaplivesinTaos,NewMexico,butcuthisteethonRainierandnowguidesforIMG,Simo’scompany.AmongthemountainsheguidesareDenaliandAconcagua.Alsoaverylikableguy.AtBaseCamp,duringrestdays,TapandIcametogetheraroundacertainritualofwhatwecalled“carboloading”andwashingoursocks.It’simportanttohavecleansocksonabigHimalayanmountain,becauseyourfeetstaydryer.TapandIwouldbuildalittlewashbasinbehindthestoragetent,sneakafewbeersoutthere,anddrinkthemwiththeSherpasontheslywhilewedidourlaundry.

Theinterestingthing,inviewofsubsequentevents,wasthatshortlyafterdawn,aswehuddledbehindtheConferenceRock(asIcalledit)onthenortheastridge,atabout27,700feet,itwasDaveHahnwhofelttheleastconfident.Hewasthefirsttoexpresshisdoubtsaboutgoingon.“Hey,man,I’mreallycold,”hesaid.“Thisdoesn’tlooklikeagoodday.Thatlenticularisn’tgood.Ithinktheweather’sgoingtoturnbadonus.Weneedtomakeadecisionrighthere.”

JakeandTapseemedcaughtupinacertainlassitudeandindecisiveness.Theyweren’ttotallyjazzedtogoon.Theymayhavebeenabitintimidated.Forthatmatter,wewereallintimidated,wayupthereonthenortheastridge.Weknewthattheobstaclesahead,theFirstandSecondStepsandthetraversebetweenthem,wereveryseriousground.AngPasangandDawahardlysaidaword.Ifeltthatweoughttokeepgoingandseehowthedayturnedout.IknewwecouldatleastgettothebaseoftheFirstStep,some250yardsaway.Iwantedtokeepgoing—Iwasgettingcoldjustsittingthere,swingingmyfeetandarmstotrytostaywarm—andthentheSherpassaid,“Yes,let’sgo.”

Wemusthavespentforty-fiveminutesatConferenceRockinthisdiscussion.WetalkedontheradiotoSimodownatABC,togethisinputontheweather.Wewereallbreathingoxygen,ataflowoftwoandahalftothreeandahalflitersperminute.I’doriginallyhopedtoclimbEverestwithoutoxygen,butafterseeingwhathadhappenedtotheUkrainians,Ioptedforgasasgivingusanaddedsafetymargin.

ItwasverynearherethatPercyWynHarrisfoundtheiceaxethatbelongedtoeitherMalloryorIrvine,in1933.Andslightlytothewestofthisspot,ontheirwaydownlaterthatday,TapandJakefoundanoldoxygenbottleandcarrieditdownthemountain.BackatBaseCamp,JochenHemmlebwasabletodeterminethatitwasdefinitelya1924bottle.Simohadactuallyseenthebottlein1991;nowhewaskickinghimselffornothavingretrieveditthen.Thebottleisanothervitalpieceofevidence,foritfurtherprovesthatMalloryandIrvineatleastreachedapointjustshortoftheFirstStep,andthattheywereontheskylineridge,nottraversingthefacebelow.

Sowestartedon.Davewastheofficialleaderoftheparty;butsinceIwasbreakingtrailandstringingthe

fixedropes,Ibecamethedefactoleader.AtthefootoftheFirstStep,Iwasgoingfirst,withthetwoSherpasrightbehind.IhadtofixanotherropeontheStep,buttoclimbitIclippedintotheoldfixedropes.WhatIdidwastoputmorethanmyweightonthoseoldlinesbybouncingupanddownonthemwhileIwasstillinasecureplace.ThatwayIwastestingthemwithmoreimpactthantheywouldbearifIfellgoingup.TheSherpaspayedoutthenewropeasIledtheStep,slidingmyascenderuptheoldfixedropes.Atthetop,Ianchoredthenewlinebytyingittolong,thinpitonsthatotherpartieshaddrivenintotherock.Thiswasnotonlytime-consuming;IalsohadtotakeoffmymittensandwearonlyfleecegloveswhileItiedtheknots.

TheFirstStepwasveryexposedfourth-classclimbing;ifithadbeenanyharder,wewouldhaveropedupandbelayed.Mallorycouldhavedoneit.IdoubtthatheandIrvinewouldhavegonewheretheropesgotoday;morelikelytheywouldhaveclimbedtheSteponthelefthandsideoftheridge,closertotheKangshungFace.ThismaybetheplacewheretheywerewhenNoelOdellcaughthisfamousglimpseofthemoutlinedagainstthesky.

AbovetheFirstStep,IstartedthetraversetotheSecond.Thisisverytrickyground;therearedangerouspocketsofdeepsnow,andthewholetraverseisunderlainwithdownsloping,loose,shaleystones.Theroutegoesalittlebelowthecrestoftheridge,overthenorthface.Ididn’tstringoutnewropehere;thatwouldhavetakentoolong,andbesides,wehadnoropetospare.Inplacetherewasasinglestrandofthinoldrope,maybesixmillimetersindiameter,severelyabradedinplaces.AsImovedalong,Itookuptheslackinthefixedlineandtieditoffatintervalstomakeitsafer.

Forty-fiveminutesalongthetraverse,halfwaytotheSecondStep,Icametoafeaturethat’scalledtheMushroomRock.It’samushroom-shapedbollardofrockmaybesevenfeettall.Iwentaroundtotheeastsideofit,outofthewind,inthesun,andforthefirsttimethatday,Igotwarm.

Amazinglyenough,in1975theChineseteamputtheirCampVIIhere,thehighestcampeverpitchedonEverest.Theyinstalledtwentyclimbershere.(Thereweresome400membersoftheexpedition!)

AttheMushroomRock,weregroupedforthesecondtime.Daveswitchedhisoxygencylinder.Weknewhewasgoingonahigherflowthantherestofus,maybefourlitersperminute,becausehethoughthewouldneedtheextragastoshootvideoalltheway,whichwashisrole.Laterthatincreasedflowwouldhaveconsequences.

ThetraversefromtheFirstSteptotheMushroomRockprovedtobeverydemanding,withinsecurefootingandtheweatherchangingconstantly.Afterawhile,TapandJakecameup.Icouldseethatthelookintheireyeshadchanged.

Weeksbefore,downatBaseCamp,we’dhadlongdiscussionsaboutthissortofmoment.Ialwayssaidtotheothers,Youcan’tgoforthesummitbecauseyoufeelobligatedto.Youcan’tdoitbecauseyouwanttoshootpictures.Youcan’tdoitbecauseyouwanttowriteastoryaboutit.Andyoucan’tdoitforsomeoneelse,becausethatsomeoneelsewon’tbethereifyouscrewup.Youhavetodoitbecauseyou’rereallymotivatedfrominside,becauseyouhaveyourownpersonalreasonstodoit.

I’vehadpartnersgetwishy-washyonotherbigclimbs,andI’vesaidtothem,“Let’sgodown.”Iftheyarenotintoit,we’regoingtogetintrouble.AtBaseCamp,whenTapandJakeheardmyviews,oneofthemsaid,“Wow,thatsoundsprettyharsh.”

Nowtheysaid,“Hey,it’sjustnotinthecards.Ican’tseeusgoingon.Theweather’snotlookinggood.”Theyhaddecidedtoturnaround.

Partoftheirreasoningmayhavehadtodowiththeirtrainingasguides.Whenyouguide,yourassessment

ofriskhastobeconservative.If,whentheywereeighteen,they’dgoneafterclimbinghardandhadthedrivetomakereallydifficultfirstascents,insteadofstartingoutasguides,perhapsnowattwenty-fivetheywouldhavewantedtogoon.

Isaid,“Hey,thedecisionisonehundredpercentyours.I’mgoingtogoon.IfeelcomfortablewithwhatIseeuphere.ButIunderstandhowyoufeel,andIappreciateyourjudgment.”WegotontheradioagainandtoldSimothatJakeandTapwereturningaround.Hedidn’thaveanytroublewiththat.Themainthinginhismindwasthatsomeofusweregoingtopushonforthesummit.

LaterTapamplifiedhisfeelingsatthatmoment.“Thingsjustdidn’tfeelright.We’dseenwhathappenedtotheUkrainians.Therewasabitofafeelingthatdeathwasbreathinginourfaces.”

“ItwasthehardestdecisionI’veevermadeinthemountains,”Jakeadded.“Iwasintears.”

Forme,theweather,farfromseemingominous,hadjustimproved.Thelenticularwasgonefromthesummit.IwaswarmerthanI’dbeenallday.AndDave’smoodhadcompletelyturnedaround.Hewasingreatspirits,totallypsyched.HeandIwereclicking.Heseemednowtobepickinguponmyvibe.

Davewasthepersonwho’dgottenmeinvitedtoMountEverest.HeandIhadclimbedtogetherbefore,duringtwoseasonsinAntarctica.DaveisthechiefguideforAdventureNetworkInternationaldownthere,guidingMountVinson,whichhe’sclimbedfourteentimes,therecord.DaveandIdidtheclassicrouteonMountGardner,andweclimbedanunnamed5,000-footpyramidnearby.Lastwinter,wediscoveredtwocachesleftbythefirstAmericanteamtoclimbGardner,in1967.Asweatethirty-two-year-oldchocolate,DaveandIjokedabouttheupcomingEverestexpedition.

Dave’sthirty-sevenyearsold,tallandcraggy-looking.He’sareallysolidbig-mountainguide.Verygoodwithclients—patientandunderstanding.He’sgotawrysenseofhumor,withaweaknessforpuns.Ithinkhe’dliketobeaprofessionalwriter:heputatremendousamountofeffortintohisInternetdispatches,whichwerethecreamoftheMountain-Zonereportage.He’salsoseriousaboutbecomingafilmmaker.Onsummitday,hewasdeterminedtoshootvideoforNOVAallthewaytothetop.

ThiswasDave’sfourthexpeditiontoEverest.In1994hehadsummitted,buttheclimbturnedintoanepic.ThiswasalsoanexpeditionledbySimo.OnMay19ofthatyear,DavesetoutforthetopwithanItalianclimber,whoturnedbackattheSecondStep.Davewentonalone,summittingat4:45P.M.,whichisprettylate,buthe’dmadethefirstsuccessfulascentoftheseason.Hehadtodomostofthedescentinthedark,andhewasforcedtobivouacjustabovetheFirstStep.Breathingoxygenduringthenight,hemiraculouslyavoidedfrostbite.Justbeforedawn,ateammatecameouttomeethimwithfood,water,andextraoxygen.HefoundDavedehydratedandexhausted,yettheymanagedtogetbacktocampsafely.

Aweeklater,tragedystruckthenorthsideofEverest.AnAustralian,MichaelRheinberger,setoutforthetopwiththeNewZealanderMarkWhetu.Rheinbergerwasfifty-threeyearsoldandhadtriedEverestseventimesbeforewithoutmakingit;thistimehewasdeterminedtosummit.HeandWhetufinallysummittedat7:18P.M.Theyhadtobivouacintheopenjusttwentyyardsbelowthesummit.Amazingly,theysurvivedthenight,butthenextday,afterelevenhoursofall-outeffort,they’donlygottendowntotheSecondStep.BynowRheinbergerwasblind,delirious,andunabletowalk.ThewindsweresostrongthatpotentialrescuerssentupfromCampVIhadtoturnbackattheFirstStep.FinallyWhetuhadtoabandonhisfriendjusttosavehisownlife.Itwasaclosecallevenso,andhesufferedseverefrostbite.Rheinbergergothissummit,butitcosthimhislife.

TheremightbethosewhowouldcriticizeDaveHahnforpushingonin’94andreachingthesummitsolate.Daveknowsthevalueofturningbackwhenheneedsto.OnhisothertwopreviousEverestexpeditions,heturnedaroundbothtimesat28,000feet.

Afterdecidingtogodown,TapandJakewaitedforawhileattheMushroomRocktowatchustrytoclimbtheSecondStep.AsIheadedoffagain,IassumedtheSherpaswerecoming.Butatthatmoment,AngPasangdecidedtodropouttoo.HestayedwithTapandJakeandthendescendedwiththem.Hedidn’ttellmehewasturningback,soIdidn’tevengetachancetosaygoodbyetohim.

Thecontinuationofthetraverse,betweentheMushroomRockandtheSecondStep,isatleastastrickyasthefirsthalf.Thelooserockalternateswithdeeppocketswherethesnowrangesfromknee-toevenwaist-deep.Onsomeofthosepockets,therewasnofixedropeinplace.Theywerequitespooky.Youhadtobealert:ifthesnowstartedsliding,itcouldtakeyouoffthehillandsendyouflyingdowntotheRongbuk.AsIledthistraverse,IthoughtoftenaboutMalloryandIrvinecrossingthesameterrainin1924.

IgottothebaseoftheSecondStepandwaitedforDaveandDawa.Iwasfeelingstrongenoughthatdaythatevenbreakingtrail,I’dgetten,fifteen,twenty,ormoreminutesaheadoftheothers.NowDawacameup,sortofshakinghishead.Ilookedathim,andhesaid,“I’mgoingtogodown.”Isaid,“Iunderstand.Noproblem.”Hegavemethelastfixedrope,whichIcachedtheretouseonthedescent.Iwasn’tworriedaboutDawatraversingbacktotheFirstStepbyhimself.TheexperiencedSherpasareverysurefootedonthatsortofterrain.Iknewhe’dcatchuptoJake,Tap,andAngPasangbeforetoolong.

SoitwasdowntoDaveandme.WeturnedtofacetheSecondStep.Itwasabout10:30inthemorning.Weweren’tgoingsuper-fast,butthepaceseemedallright,andtheweatherlookedgood.

THESECONDSTEPisanunlikelybarrier,ninetyfeethigh,onwhatwouldotherwisebeamoderateridge.Thebottomsectionisangularandblocky;thebestrouteupitsurmountsaseriesofhighstepsandmantles.InthemiddleoftheStep,asnowtriangleleansagainstthecliff.Abovethat,afifteen-footcrackinalargecorner,slightlyoverhanging,formsthecruxoftheclimb.ItwasherethattheChinesein1975affixedtheirladder.Tenfeetoflesssteeprockabovetheladdercompletethecliff.

AsDavejoinedmeatthebottomoftheSecondStep,whichwasinshade,hesaid,“Darnit,thevideocamera’sfoggingup.”We’dhavetopopopenthecassetteanddryitoutinthesun,soIsuggestedheascendthefixedropestothebaseoftheladder,wherehecouldgetbackintothesunlight,thenworkonthecamera.

Davejuggeduptherope,gottothetopofthesnowtriangle,andclippedintothebaseoftheladder.ThenIrock-climbedthefirstforty-fivefeet,usingmyascenderonthefixedropetocatchmeshouldIslip.Theclimbingwasmoderatelyhard,butnotextreme.BythetimeIgotuptotheladder,Davegotthecameraworkingintermittently.

AtthispointItookoffmypackwiththeoxygenapparatus.I’ddecidedtotrythefree-climbwithoutoxygen,mainlybecausetherigwassocumbersome,themaskprotrudingsothatIcouldn’tproperlyseemyfeetwithiton.Ipulleda112-foot-longlineoutofmypack,agoodclimbingropeninemillimetersindiameter,andtiedintotherope.Davewouldbelaymewiththat.Hewantedtoshootvideowhilebelaying,butIneededagood,securebelayhere,andthevideowouldhavetotakesecondpriority.Youcan’tbothshootwellandbelaysafely.

Ihadasmallrackofgearjustforthispitch—fourcamsofdifferentsizesandsixStoppers,devicesclimbersplaceincrackstoshortenapotentialfall.Igotmyrackorganized,thenhadagoodlookatthecrux.

Tounderstandthepivotalimportanceofthetwenty-fivefeetofrockIwasnowfacing,onehastoconsiderthestrange,murkyhistoryoftheSecondStep.The1924partyhadlookedhardatthatbumpontheskylinefromfarbelow.OnJune4,TeddyNortonhadtraversedthroughtheYellowBandwellbelowthecrestof

theridge,asheheadedfortheGreatCouloir,explicitlytoavoidtheStep.ButMalloryhadbelievedallalonginanattackonthecrestoftheridge—thatwashisstyleofclimbing.Andinhisfamoussighting,NoelOdellhadinitiallybelievedthatitwastheSecondStephesawthetwotinyfiguressurmountinonlyfiveminutes.

WiththeclosureofthenorthsideofEveresttoforeignersafter1938,nooneagaincameanywhereneartheSecondStepuntil1960.Thatyear,ahugeChineseexpedition—214ChineseandTibetanclimbers,noneofwhom,however,hadmorethanfiveyears’experienceinthemountains—assaultedEverestfromthenorth.ThestoriesthatfilteredbacktotheWestfromthismassassaultpuzzlednearlyeverybody.ThemainaccountavailableinEnglishappearedinapropagandamagazinecalledChinaReconstructs.ItreadsmorelikeahomileticMaoisttractthanamountaineeringnarrative.Accordingtothatarticle,aninitialpairofwould-besummiteersflailedawayattheStepforalongafternoonandintothenight,climbingallbutthelast“threemeters,”beforeenduringagrimbivouacinacrevice,thendescendingthenextday.Threeweekslater,anothertriocametogripswiththeStep.Onemanmadefourall-outattemptstosolvethecrux,fallingoffexhaustedeachtime.Finallyanotherclimber,ChuYin-hua,tookoffhisglovesandboots,usedashoulderstand,andhadagoatthecliffinstockingfeet.Thepartnerwhohoistedhimup“trembledallover,shortofbreath,butheclenchedhisteethandsteadilystoodup,withmuchheroiceffort.”Toppingthecliffafterathree-hourstruggle,Chubroughthiscomradesuponatightrope.

Threementhensupposedlycontinuedtothesummit,arrivingat4:20A.M.Becauseitwasdark,theytooknopicturesabovetheSecondStep.ThesummitteersclaimedtheyleftaplasterbustofMaoontop,butithasneverbeenfound.Forhisheroiceffort,Chulaterlosthisfingersandfeettofrostbite.

AlotofWesternclimbersfeltthen,andmanystillfeelthatthisChineseascentwasahoax.AftersummarizingtheChinaReconstructsaccountintheAmericanAlpineJournal,editorH.AdamsCarter,whowasanabsolutesticklerforaccuracy,drylyeditorialized,“Thedetailsaresuchthatmountaineersinnearlyallpartsoftheclimbingworldhavereceivedthenewswithconsiderableskepticism.”

Thenextallegedascentofthenorthridge,alsobyChinese,camein1975,duringtheexpeditiononwhichWangHongbaofoundhis“oldEnglishdead.”Fromtheircomradesin1960,theseclimberslearnedallaboutthedifficultyoftheSecondStep.HavingferriedallkindsofgearuptotheirCampVIIattheMushroomRock,theteamhauledtheirladderuptothecrux,tiedittopitonstheypoundedintocracksintherock,thenclimbedtheladder.Allsubsequentascentsofthenorthridgehaveusedtheladderand/orthefixedropesnowstrunginplaceontheStep.

MalloryandIrvine,ofcourse,hadhadnoladder.ThiswaswhyIwantedtofree-climbtheSecondStep,forunlessMalloryandIrvinemadeit,thecruxhadneverbeenfree-climbed.(Eventhe1960shoulderstand,ifnotapieceoffiction,hastobeclassifiedasartificialclimbing.)

Inrecentyears,severalclimberswhousedtheladderwonderedwhetheranothercrackabouttenfeettotherightmightserveasapossibleroute.BeforeItackledthewallbesidetheladder,Isidledouttotherighttocheckoutthisalternative.Icouldn’tstartfromthetopofthesnowtriangle,buthadtokickstepsdowntheedgeofittogettothecrack.Therockwassorotten,noneofmycamsorStopperswouldhaveheld.IfIhadcomeoffonthiscrack,Iwouldhavetakenaverybadfall.FinallyIgottothebaseofthecrack.Itwasfilledwithloose,disjointedrock,reallydangerous.Ijuststoodthere,pickingupgrapefruit-sizedstonesinmyhandsandmovingthemaround.Thecrackjustwasn’tanoption.

ThisillustratedformethelimitationsofallthetheoreticalapproachestotheMalloryandIrvinemysterythathavebeenadvancedovertheyears.JochenHemmlebhadbecomefascinatedwiththeSecondStep.Inpreviousyears,he’dwrittenthreelengthy“researchpapers”aboutit,postingthemontheInternet.Onewascalled“HowtoGetUptheSecondStep—ATopoGuide.”Inhislatestpaper,Hemmlebhadgoneso

farastoratethecrackIwasnowinvestigating.“Iffree-climbed,”hepostulated,“theoriginalheadwallpitchisprobablyGradeIV-V(British4b,USA5.6).”Allthis,withouthiseverhavingseenMountEverest!Evenonthisexpedition,JochennevergothigherthanalittleabovetheNorthCol,at23,000feet.Noneofthiskepthimfrombeingtheworld’sleadingexpertonfeaturesliketheSecondStep.Inthelowercamps,I’dhearhimsay,“Therearemanyclimbersonthisexpedition,butIamirreplaceable.”

IdecidedthattheonlyplacetoclimbtheStepwasrightwheretheladderhadbeentiedin.Istartedtotheleftoftheladder,whereacrackanglesupandright.Ileftmycramponson,becauseitwouldhavebeentoomuchefforttotakethemoff,andIknewitmightbeicyatthetopofthepitch.Besides,Ifeltcomfortableclimbinghardrockwithcramponson.

Theexposureherewasunbelievable—8,000feetofspacedowntotheRongbukGlacier.IknewIwasgoingtohavetomovefast,becausethat’sthewaytogoonhardroutes,especiallyatanaltitudeashighas28,230feet.Ifyourestandhangontoaholdtoolong,youjustflameout.Istartedupwithanarmbarandakneejam;thenIsteppedontosometinyedgeswithmyrightfoot.Davehadhopedtofilmmylead,butassoonasIstartedclimbing,itwasallhecoulddotostayalertandpayouttherope.Itwasinhisinteresttopayattention,becauseonceIgotabovehim,ifI’dpoppedoffandlandedonhimwithmycrampons,wecouldbothhavebeenbadlyinjured.

Itwasn’tuntilIgotaboutfifteenfeetaboveDavethatIcouldplacemyfirstandonlypieceofprotection.Therewasachockstonewedgedinthecrack,underneathwhichIplacedaperfecthand-sizedcam.AssoonasIclippedmyropetothecam,Ifeltbetter.Atthispoint,Ihadtostepright.NowIhadahandjamwithmylefthand,myrighthandonaslopinghold,myleftfootjammedinthecrack,andIwasonlyaboutsixinchesawayfromtheladder.TheplaceIneededtoputmyrightfootwasbetweentherungsoftheladder.Itwasreallyawkward—theladderwasintheway.

Ireachedmyfootbetweentherungs,butatthatpointIwaspanting,totallywinded.Ijusthadtostepontherungandrest.

Irestedjustlongenoughtounleashastringofswearwordsandcatchmybreath.Iwasmadbecausebysteppingontherung,I’dcompromisedmyfreeclimb.ThenImovedonup.Therewasonetrickymove,andthenthecliffslopedback.Iledonuptotheanchor,whichisacoffee-table-sizedbouldersittingonaledge,backedupwithseveralknife-bladepitonspoundedintosomeshallow,fissurelikecracks.Allthefixedropesaretiedtothisanchor.

Itiedin,gavemyselfsomeslack,creptbacktotheedgeofthecliff,andhadDavetieinmypacksoIcouldhaulitup.ThenDaveclimbedtheladder,ascendingthefixedropes.

Ihadn’tfree-climbedtheSecondStep.Thatachievementstillawaitsastrongerclimber.Ihaddoneallbutonemove,yetI’dfailedinwhatIsetouttodo.Nonetheless,theefforthadgivenmeagoodideaofhowhardtheclimbwas.Atthetime,erringonthesideofcaution,Itentativelygradedthepitchat5.8.Later,whenIgotbacktotheStatesandsawatwhatlevelIwasclimbinginYosemiteandIndianCreek,Utah,Ichangedmymind.TheSecondStepisprobablyasolid5.10.Andthat’salotharderthananythingclimbersweredoinginWales,withplimsollshoes,hempropes,nopitons,anda“gentleman’sbelay”(withnoanchortotherock),intheearly1920s.

IgotontheradiotoSimo.IsaidrightoffthebatthatIhadn’tfree-climbedtheStep.ItoldhimI’dbeenweak,I’dhadtostepontheladderatonepoint.

I’ddonethetwenty-fivefeetquickly,inaboutfiveminutes.Itwas11:00A.M.now.Welefttheclimbingrackthere,anemptywaterbottle,acoupleofotheroddsandends.Beforewestartedon,IaskedDave,“Howareyoufeeling?Areyoupsychedtogoon?”Ifeltitwasimportanttopresenthimwiththeoption.I

said,“Dave,ifyouwanttogodown,Iunderstand.Icangettothetopfromhereonmyown.Ifeelcomfortableonthisterrain.”

Rightawayheanswered,“Let’sgoforthesummit.”

ABOVETHESECONDSTEP,theridgebroadensintoaregioncalledthePlateau.Thegoinghereisrelativelyeasy;thereareonlyacoupleoflittlerocktowersyouhavetoclimbover.Iwasactuallygettingwarmhere,soIunzippedthesidesofmydownsuittoventilate.OnthePlateau,wepassednearthebodiesoftwoIndianclimberswhohaddiedherein1996,theyearofallthedeathschronicledinIntoThinAir.TheseweretheIndianswhommembersoftheJapaneseteamhadignored,goingforthesummitthemselvesratherthantryingtosavetheirlives.Wewentwithinaboutthirtyyardsofthem,butIdidn’tlookatthemupclose.

WeclimbedtheThirdStep,anenjoyablescramble,mucheasierthantheFirstorSecond.Atthetopofthat,wewereatthebaseofthesummitpyramid,onlysome500feetbelowthetopofthemountain.IwassowarmIstartedtotakeoffthetopofmydownjacket,butallofasuddenasnowsquallhit.Itbegansnowingthick,heavy,wetflakes.

Istartedtraversingupandrightacrossthesummitpyramid.Thesnowunderfootgotdeeperanddeeper,untilitwasmid-thigh.I’dgottenabitaheadofDavehere.Withmyskistick,Icouldprobedownthroughtheloosesnowandhitahardlayeroficebeneath.Theslopewasabout45degrees.Ikeptcrossingsmall,bell-shapedpocketsofwindslabsnowthatwereparticularlylikelytoavalanche.Istartedtogetreallyconcerned.

Iradioeddown,“Dave,thisisnotgood.Doyoumindwaitingthere?We’vegottoloadthisslopeonepersonatatime.”IwentaheadwhileDavewaited.Myintuition,fromyearsofbeinginthemountainsandstudyingsnowpackandsnowtexture,toldmethiswasreallydangerous.

Igotontheradioagain,totalktoSimoandRussellBriceatABC.Atonepoint,Simosaid,“Youguysjustgetonupthereandringthebellandgetondown.”Hewasunderstandablyinvestedinsomeonefromourexpeditionmakingthesummit.Ididn’tfeelmanipulated,buthiswordswereabittoogungho.Ikeptworrying:Thisisnotsafe.ThenI’dreflectthattheUkrainianshadcrossedherewithoutincident;butthatwasninedaysearlier,andtheconditionscouldhavebeenentirelydifferent.

RussellBricegotontheradio.He’sclimbedEverestfromthenorththreetimes.Inadrollvoice,hesaid,“Thesummitpyramid’salwayslikethat.It’salwaysabitspooky.I’vehadtotraverseitthewayyouareeachtimeI’vebeenupthere.”Thatwasvaluableadviceforme;thatwasrealinformationIcoulduse.

Icouldseerockahead,theridgelinewhereIknewthere’dbehardsnow,thankstoitsbeingexposedtothewind.Ididn’tcomeclosetoturningaroundhere,butitwastheonetimeontheexpeditionIreallyhadtostickmyneckout.Ifigured,I’vejustgottopunchthroughandhopemykarmaisgood.

By1:30,Ihadreachedtherockatthetopofthetraverse.IsatdowntowaitforDave.ThenIrealizedthatIwasattheexactspotwhereRheinbergerandWhetuhadmadetheirdesperatebivouacin1994.Iwasonlysixtyfeetbelowthesummit.

Iwaitedthereforfortyminutes,ontheleesideoftheslope,outofthewind.Itookmyoxygensetoff,satonarockbench,andtriedtodryoutmyglovelinersandfleecehat.

Simokeptcomingontheradio,saying,“What’sup?”

Isaid,“I’mhavingagreattimehere,justenjoyingtheview.”

“Where’sDave?”

“He’sfine.He’scomingup.”

EachtimeSimotalkedtome,hesoundedmoreanxious.“Allright,goodjob.We’retotallypsychedandreallyhopingyouguyscangetupthere.”

Ihadtosay,“I’mgoingtowaitforDavebeforeIgotothesummit.”Itwasateamthing.Ifitweren’tforDave,Iwouldn’thavebeenontheexpedition.

AtlastDavecameintosight.Icouldseethathewasbreathinghard,lookingoutofit.Thensuddenly,justashegotuptome,hewasill.

OnHimalayanexpeditions,everyoneisexposedtostrainsofunfamiliarbacteria.Yourintestinaltractisconstantlyassaulted.NowDavewasstruckwithasuddenwaveofnauseaanddiarrhea.Healmostgothissuitopenintime.Sorightthere,sixtyfeetbelowthesummit,hehadtoopenuphistrousers,cleanhimselfup,andsealhissuitbackup.Maybeitwasjustastomachbug,butwhenyou’reseverelystressed,oneofthefirstpartsofyoursystemtoreactisyourdigestivetract.WhathadhappenedtoDavewasnoreflectiononhistoughness,norwasitpersonallyhumiliating.ItsimplyprovedthatEverestisalwaysaseriousmountainifsomeoneasstrongashecouldbereducedtothethinnestofmargins.

IntheKarakoramonce,Iwasstruckbyasimilarviolentincontinencemidwaythroughadangerousicefall.Tothisdate,itstandsasoneofmymostunpleasantexperiencesinclimbing.IcouldempathizewithDave,yetwhatalarmedmewasnotsomuchthediarrheaasthenauseaandthedepletedlookonhisface.

“Dave,doweneedtoturnaround?”Iasked.

Hesaid,“No,no,let’sgotothetop.”Buthiswordswereveryslow.Iwasthinking,Thisisreallybad.Dave’snotingoodshape.

PeoplegettooblaséaboutEverest,especiallypeoplewho’veneverbeenthere.Allthetalkaboutitbeingaroutineclimb,awalk-up.Evenexperiencedveteranscanfallintothatthinking,likeScottFischerwithhis“yellowbrickroad”in1996.

IgaveDavesomeofmywarmenergydrink.ThenIsaid,“Yougoaheadandtakethefinalstepstothesummitfirst.Iwouldn’tbeherewithoutyou.”

Hegotabouthalfwaythere,thenstopped.“Somethingiswrong,”hesaidinahoarsevoice.“Checkmyoxygen.”

Icheckedhisbottleandsawthatitwasonzero.Withafour-literflow,he’duseduphissecondbottle.ItooktheemptybottleoffandpitcheditdowntheKangshungFace.UsuallyI’madamantaboutbringingalltheoxygencylindersdownandhavingthemrefilled.Inourpredicament,however,neitherDavenorIcouldaffordtolugthosefourteenpoundsofdeadweight.Ijustifiedtossingthebottleaslessofaneyesorethanleavingitbesidethetracktothesummit.

Daveputhispackbackon,andweclimbeduptothesummitwithoutoxygen.Itwas2:50P.M.,laterthanwewouldhaveliked.Wespentonlyabouttenminutesontop.Davefilmedthelastfewstepstothetop,thoughthelenswasreallyfogged,andwetookafewpicturesofeachother.IgotoutthewalnutfromthepujaatBouddanathandleftitthere.AndIhadafilmcanisterfilledwithricefromthemonksattheRongbukMonastery;Ithrewthericeovermyleftshoulderontothesummit.Weweresurroundedbyclouds.Therewasnothingtoseebeyondthesmallconeofsnow—ahumbleapextothehighestmountainonearth.

Ihadalwaysdreamedofthismomentasasupremeexperience.Today,itwasnot.Istoodontopofthe

world,yetIfeltscaredandoverwhelmed.

Ithadstoppedsnowing.Ilookedatmywatchandthought,It’sthreeo’clock.We’veonlygotfourhoursbeforedark.Mypartnerisnotdoingverywell.We’reinaseriouspredicament.

Theterrainbelow,whichwe’dhavetodown-climb,amountedtoaveryseriousroute.It’snotlikeonthesouthsidebelowthesouthsummit,whereforlongstretchesyoucansitonyourrearendandslide.IfDaveweretocollapse,therewasnowayIcouldlowerhimdowntheroute.IfIhadthenstayedwithhim,wemightbothhaveperished.

WhenwegotbacktotheRheinberger-Whetubivouacsite,ItooktheoxygencylinderoutofmypackandgaveittoDave,turnedtoaflowoftwolitersperminute.ThenItookallthestuffhe’dbeencarryingandputitinmypack.Igavehimmorefluid,andIsaid,“Dave,we’vegottoreallyworktogetheronthis.We’vegottodoitwell.”

Heseemeddisconnectedfromreality,andIwasveryconcerned,becauseI’dneverseenhimlikethatbefore,evenonourhardestdaystogetherinAntarctica.“Howdoyouwanttodescend?”Iasked.“Doyouwantmetogofirst,ordoyouwanttogofirst?”Heaskedmetolead,whichwasgood,becauseitwouldbeeasierforhimtofollowinmyfootsteps.

Weclimbedbackdownthedangeroustraverse.Davewasveryslow.Everyplacewheretherewasalittlebitofrock,I’dwaittillhecaughtup,thenwhenhedid,I’dstartoffrightaway.Thismayhavebeenamistake:maybeIshouldhavegivenhimachancetorest.Butbynow,Irealizedthatatthispacewewerelikelytofaceanopenbivouac.

AtthetopoftheThirdStep,Isetuparappel.IriggedDave’srappeldeviceforhim,sothatallhehadtodowasclipitintotherope.Butwhenhecamedown,Isawthathe’djustwrappedtheropearoundhisarms;hehadn’tusedtherappeldeviceatall.WhenIpointedthisouttohim,hesaid,“I’mfine.Leavemealone.”

“No,you’renot,”Isaid.“Dave,thisisareallyserioussituation.Weneedtoteamtogetheranddothisright.TherigIsetupforyouisgoingtohelpyouout.”Ifhe’dclippedinwithhisrappeldevice,evenifhelostcontrolandstartedtofall,Icouldstophimbypullingthebottomoftherappelropetight.Sincehe’donlywrappedtheropearoundhisarms,ifhe’dfallen,hemighthavegoneflyingrightoffthemountain.

Iwasmovingallrightwithoutoxygen.Ihadn’tplannedtouseitonthedescent,becauseIwantedtoseemyfeetasclearlyaspossible.BelowtheThirdStep,westartedacrossthePlateau.Itwasabout4:00P.M.NowDavegotevenslower.Hewasreallyoutofit,stoppingandsittingdown.Hewasdeterioratingevenfurther.Ikeptcalculatingourpace,theamountofoxygenDavehad,andthehoursofdaylightwehadleft.AtallcostsIwantedtoavoidabivouac.Anightoutwithneithertentnorstoveattheleastwouldhavemeantfrostbite,attheworst,death.ItseemedvitaltogettothebaseoftheFirstStepbeforedark.

Alittlebefore5:00P.M.,Imadeaveryharddecision.TheUkrainianshadcometogriefonMay8inpartbecausetheyhadwaitedtill9:00P.M.beforeradioingforhelp.SoIgotontheradiotoSimo.“Isitpossible,”Iasked,“nexttimeyouspeaktoTapandJakeatCampVI,youcanaskthemtograbsomehotdrinks,someoxygen,andsomeheadlampbatteriesandstartcruisinguptheYellowBandandmeetussomewhere?”

Simowasgreataboutthis.Atoncehesaid,“Goodidea.Weneedtodoit.”HeradioedTapandJake.Bythen,AngPasangandDawahadalreadyheadedondownthemountain,planningtogoallthewaytoABCthatnight.IknewhowharditwouldbeforTapandJaketoheadupagain,justwhenthey’dreachedcamp

andsettledintoit.IwasworriedthatatsomepointI’drunoutoftheenergyitwastakingtokeepDavegoing,andI’dhaveahardtimetakingcareofmyself.

AtthetopoftheSecondStep,Itiedthegood112-footropetotheanchor,sothatwecouldrappeldownit.ThistimeImadesureDavewasokay,thathewasgoingtoclipinwithhisrappeldeviceafterIhadunclippedatthebottom.AsIwentdownfirstonrappel,Ihadtopaytheropeoutaheadofme.AtthebottomItiedofftheendoftherope,thenhollered,“Offrappel!”Davewasoutofsightontheshelfabove.SoIrepeatedthecallovertheradio.

IbeganthetaskofstringingoutthefixedropethatDawahadcarrieduptohere.BetweentheSecondStepandtheMushroomRock,therewasabadstretchIwantedtofix.Theropewasprettytangled,soIhadtofocus.Ididn’tseeDavecomingdownyet,whichworriedmefurther,butthentheropeontheSecondStepstartedjiggling,andIknewhewasonrappel.

WegottotheMushroomRockat6:30,justasthesunwassetting.Iputonanotherlayeroflongunderwearuppers.Iwasstillinfairlygoodshapemyself.Overtheyears,I’velearnedthatIcangostrongforabouteighteenhours,whichwewerenowapproaching.AfterthisIgetasecondwindandIcangoanothereighthours.IfIstayoutpasttwenty-sixhours,mychanceofreturningunharmedisdiminished.Afterforty-eighthoursintheseconditions,Iwouldbetotallycooked.

DavecaughtupwithmeattheMushroomRock.He’dlefthisfirstoxygenbottlehere,withathousandpoundsofpressurestillinit.Weswitchedhiscylindersoverandheadeddown.

Later,downatBaseCamp,SimowasupsetwithDave.Hechewedhimoutforcrankinghisoxygenflowsohighandrunningoutofgasonthesummit.Itcausedalotoftension,andittookafewdaysforthemtoworkitout.Ijusttriedtostayoutofthewholebusiness.Ididn’tthinkDavehadgotteninoverhishead,sincewe’dclimbedtogetherbefore.EventuallyheandSimowerereconciled.

Buttheotherthingtheydiscussedwashowtopresentwhathappenedonsummitdaytotheworld.Ericsaidthatwehadtoagreeonanofficialaccountthatwouldbewhatthepublicwouldhear,andthatitwouldbeachallengeforustodothisinawaythatreflectedpositivelyoneveryoneinvolved.Ithinkhefeltthatanear-fiascomightunderminethestoryofthesuccessfulsearchexpeditionhehadled.

ButDavesaid,“Ifwedon’ttellthewholetruth,Conraddoesn’tgetthecredithedeserves.”

Isaid,“Itjustdoesn’tmatter.”

Now,attheMushroomRock,thefreshoxygenbottlerejuvenatedDave.Hestartedcomingback.Withtheropesfixedbelow,wemovedprettywell.WegotoffrappelatthefootoftheFirstStepjustatdusk.Nowwewereoneasyterrain.Ratherthantakeabreaktoputonourheadlamps,Isaid,“Dave,let’sgo,let’sreallymaketime.”

Forthefirsttime,asDavestartedgettinghisenergyback,Istoppedbeingsoworried.Thingsweregoingtobeokay.IknewthatJakeandTapwereontheirwayup,becausebynowweweretalkingtothemontheradio.TheonetrickyplaceleftwasthetopoftheYellowBand—you’retemptedtocutdowntoosoon,butyouneedtofindthetopofthefixedropesthattakeyouthroughtheBand.Igotalittleoffroutehere,whichledtoamacabremoment.Icamearoundacliffandlookedintoasmallcaverightnexttome.Therewasadeadmanlyinginthere—somebodywho’dholeduptheretryingtobivouacandhadfrozentodeath.Ihavenoideawhohewas.

Withthisvictimfreshinmind,IaskedDave,You’vebeenherethreetimesbefore—canyoufindtheexitcracksatthetopoftheYellowBand?Helocatedthepicketsthatmarkedthetopofthefixedropes.

TapandJakemetusmidwaythroughtheYellowBand.Theyhadafreshoxygenbottle,hotdrinksina

Thermos,andsomefood,thoughnobodywantedtoeat.Wejustsatthere,chattingquietly,witheverynowandthenanoutburstofenthusiasm.Itwasagoodlittlemeeting.

IgotdowntoCampVIby9:15,theotherthreetwentyminuteslater.Oncewewereinoursleepingbags,Daveleanedononeelbowandsaidwearily,“Man,thanksforlookingafterme.”

Buttheexperiencedidn’treallyhithometilllatethenextday.Inthemorning,DaveandIsleptin,feeblybrewingpotsofhotwater,beforeclimbingondowntoABC.OnthesnowfieldbelowCampVI,wecrossedpathswithclimbersfromotherexpeditionsheadingup;theygreeteduswithbigsmilesandheartycongratulations.

AtthemomentwhenwegotoffthelastfixedlineatthebaseoftheNorthCol,withallthedangersbehindus,inthemiddleofasnowflurry,DaveandIturnedtoeachotherandembraced.We’dmadeit.

8Apotheosis

CA

WHENWEGOTDOWNTOABC,thewholeteam,filmcrewandSherpasandclimbers,hadabigcelebration.SherpaPembahadbakedusatwo-layercake.Iwashappyandproudofwhatwehaddone,notsomuchbecausewe’dsummittedasbecausewe’dcomeoffthemountainwithnofrostbite,noseriousinjuries,nofatalities.

Yetthecelebrationwasmutedbywhatwasgoingonhigheronthemountainatthatverymoment.Aswe’ddescended,twootherexpeditions—aPolishoneandaBelgianone—wereheadedupfortheirownsummitattempts.OntheafternoonofMay18,thedayafterDaveandIsummitted,threeclimbersfromthePolishteamandtwofromtheBelgiangottothetop.

We’dseenthemontheafternoonoftheeighteenthalongthesummitridge.Theyweregoingatagoodpace,andthenitwasasthoughtheysuddenlyhitapatchofglue.Theexertionthey’dalreadymadetookitstoll:theywereslowedalmosttoacrawl.Onthewaydown,apparently,theygotstrungoutandseparated.

ThesamethinghappenedtothePolesandBelgiansthathadhappenedtotheUkrainiansonMay8.OnlyonememberofeachpartygotbacktoCampVIthenightoftheeighteenth.TwoPolesandaBelgianhadtobivouac.

OneofthePoles,TaduszKudelski,mayhaveslippedandfallenofftheridgesomewherebetweentheFirstandSecondSteps;hewasneverseenagain.TheotherPolewhospentthenightoutwasRyszardPawlowski,averystrongclimberwho’dsummittedbeforeonEverest.HemadeitbacktoCampVIonMay19,butwithseriousfrostbite.HisordealprovedoncemorejusthowformidableEverestis.

EventheBelgianteammemberwhomadeitbacktocampontheeighteenth—actuallyaPortugueseclimbernamedJoãoGarcia—gotfrostbiteonthenose,solesoffeet,andhands.TheotherBelgianwastheirexpeditionleader,thewell-knownveteranPascalDebrouwer.SomeSherpaswentuptotrytorescuehimandfoundhimnearthebaseoftheFirstStep.Theycouldn’trousehim:hewasessentiallycomatose,sotheyhadtoreturnempty-handed.Andthen—thisisspeculation—IthinkthewarmthoftheafternoonsunmusthavebroughtDebrouweraround,becausehegotup,tookafewshakysteps,lostcontrol,andfellofftheridge.WeknowthisbecausesomeclimbersatCampVIwitnessedhisfall.

Onthenineteenth,wedescendedallthewaytoBaseCamp.Thateveningwehadanothercelebration—withagallonofScotchsharedamongtheclimbersandSherpas;wegothammered,andeverybodydanced,includingtheSherpas.ButbeforeIwalkedintoourcamptostartcelebrating,IstoppedattheBelgiantent.Ifoundtwoteammembersthere,reallystricken.ItwasDebrouwer’sthirdtryforthesummit;andonthisattemptheleftbehindawifeandchildren.HisfatewasapowerfulreminderofthewrathofEverest.Histeammateswerestartingtofigureouthowtocontacthisfamily.Iofferedthemtheuseofoursatellitephone,thenspenthalfanhourtryingtoconsolethem.

Bynow,thenewsofourdiscoveryofMalloryhadcausedasensationallovertheworld.The

MountainZoneWebsiteaveragedamillionhitsadayfortwoweeks.ThepublicationofphotosofMallory’sbodyinNewsweek,Stern,andtheEnglishandAustraliantabloidshadcrankedupthecontroversyanotch.WewerestillworriedaboutwhethertheChinesemightimpedeourreturnfromthemountainwitharcanecustomshassles,orevenconfiscatetheartifacts.

Intheend,ourfearsprovedgroundless,asvariousteammemberscarriedMallory’sbelongingsintheirbaggagebacktotheStates,whereSimoputthemunderthecuratorialcareoftheWashingtonStateHistoricalMuseuminTacoma.Ultimately,boththeMalloryfamilyandtheexpeditionmemberswouldliketoseetheseobjectsformapermanentmuseumexhibition.ThelettershavebeendonatedtoMagdaleneCollege,Cambridge,wheretheywillbearchivedwiththerichcorrespondencebetweenRuthandGeorge.

ALLTHEWAYtothemountaininMarch,we’ddiscussedwhetherMalloryorIrvinecouldhavemadethesummit.JochenHemmlebwasawalkingencyclopediaofloreaboutallthreeexpeditionsinthe1920s,buthegotsoobsessiveabouttheminutiaethatsometimeshecouldn’tseetheforestforthetrees.BythetimewestartedupthemountaininApril,I’dhavetosaythatmostofusweredubiousaboutthepossibilitythetwolostclimbershadmadethetop.

FindingMallory,however,hadagalvaniceffectuponmyteammates’judgment.Aftertheexpedition,Hemmlebsaid,“Igivethemasixty-fortyorafifty-fiftychancetheymadethesummit.”TapRichardsleanedfurtherintheirfavor:“Ithinktheymadeit.Oddsaretoughtocalculate,butI’dsaymaybeseventy-thirty.”AndJakeNortonwascompletelyturnedaround.“SeeingGeorgeMallorychangedmymind,”hesaid.“Hewasawe-inspiringindeath.Maybeit’sidealismonmypart,maybeIjustwanttobelieve,butI’dsaytheoddsareninety-tenhemadethesummit.”

I’msorrytosaythatIcan’tagreewiththesesanguineopinions.I’dbeasthrilledasanyoneifirrefutableproofwereeveruncoveredthattheymadeit.Inhopesofmakingjustsuchadiscovery,Simoisalreadyplanninganexpeditionforthespringof2001tolookforIrvineandthecamera.I’mnotgoingtogoalong—it’stimeformetogetbacktowhatIcaremostabout,whichisnewroutesondifficultmountainsintheremoteranges.

Sincetheexpedition,I’vespentalotoftimeanalyzingwhatwefoundlastMay,bothatthesitewherewediscoveredMallory’sbodyandinmyefforttofree-climbtheSecondStep.Twoquestionsareparamount.HowdidMallorydie—whatcausedtheaccident?AnddidheandIrvinereachthesummit?Thankstooursuccesslastspring,we’reinapositiontoofferfulleranswerstobothquestionsthananyinvestigationinthelastseventy-fiveyears.

Oneprominentfactorintheequationisgear.Sincethe1920stherehavebeenmanywavesofinnovationandimprovementinmountaineeringequipment.WhatI’vetriedtodoisimagine,frommyfirsthandexperienceonthenorthfaceandnortheastridge,whatitwouldhavebeenliketobetherewiththeequipmentMalloryandIrvinehadin1924.

Ithinkthemostimportantpieceofequipmentwouldhavebeencrampons.The1924teamhadcrampons,buttheyneverusedthemabovetheNorthCol.InanappendixinTheFightforEverest,called“TheOrganizationoftheExpedition,”HowardSomervellwrote,“Crampons.—Theseareuseful,andinMay1924wereindispensablebetweenCampsIIandIII,anddesirablefromIIItoIV.Theyareuselesshigher.”It’soddthatheshouldhaveusedtheword“useless”—timeandagainaboveCampIV,cramponswouldhavesavedthemenhugeamountsoftimeongroundwheretheyhadhadtochopsteps.WeknowfromIrvine’sdiaryandfromotherstrayremarksthattherealproblemwasthatthecramponstrapscutoffcirculationtothefeetinthesoftleatherbootsthemenwore.AbovetheNorthCol,cramponswerean

invitationtoseriousfrostbite.

Theydidhavehobnailsontheirboots.Mallory’srightboot,whichAndyandThomretrieved,hadtinyV-shapedmetalwedgesimbeddedinthesole,stickingoutmaybeaquarterofaninch.I’veneverwornhobnailedboots,andI’dliketotryoutapaironthekindofterrainMalloryandIrvinecrosseduphigh.Myguess,though,isthathobnailscouldgiveagoodpurchaseontheshaleyrockonEverest,andthatyou’dgetalittlemoretractiononsnowthanyougetinamodernpairofheavymountainbootswithrubbersoles,butthatonhardiceyouwouldn’tgetaproperbite.Mallorywasextremelyfastandskillfulatchoppingsteps,butthebeststep-chopperintheworldisgoingtogomanytimesslower,andusemuchmoreenergy,thanaguyjuststompinguptheiceinmoderncrampons.Inevertookmycramponsoffthroughoutthewholesummitday.They’renotasgoodasrubbersolesonrock,butthey’resomuchbetteroniceandsnowthatthetrade-offwaswellworthit.

Anotherveryimportantdifferencebetweennowand1924isfixedropes,whichofferseveraladvantagestomodernclimbers.First,theyindicatewheretheroutegoes.TofindourwaythroughtheYellowBandinthepredawndarknessonMay17,wesimplylookedforthefixedropes.MalloryandIrvine,instead,wouldhavehadtoroute-findontheirown,bothupanddown.

Second,afixedropemakesahugedifferenceinsupport.Youcanjustwrapitaroundyourarm,giveitatugeveryothersteporso,orslidedownitonthedescent.It’slikethedifferencebetweenridingasubwaystandinginamovingcarandstandingthereholdingthesubwaystrap.Onthesteepestsections,likethethreeStepsonthesummitridge,werappelledfixedlinestogetdown.That’sinfinitelyeasierandsaferthandown-climbingthosepitches.

Theimprovementintechnicalgearsince1924hasbeenastronomical.MalloryandIrvineweretiedtogetherwithacottonropeaboutthreeeighthsofaninchindiameterorless.It’shardtocalculate,butwithknotstiedintherope,andifitwaswet,thebreakingstrengthmighthavebeenaslittleas500pounds.ThebreakingstrengthoftherelativelylightnylonropeIledtheSecondStepwithwasover3,500pounds.Also,nylonstretchestoabsorbimpact,butcottondoesn’t.InthetwopreviousaccidentsinMallory’scareerthatwereveryclosecalls,itwassomethingofamiraclethattheropedidn’tbreak.OntheNesthornin1909,whenhefellfortyfeetfree,GeoffreyWinthropYoungexpectedtheropetobreak.AndwhenMalloryheldhisthreefallingcomradesonthesnowslopein1922withhisextraordinaryiceaxebelay,ashelaterwroteofsuchpredicaments,“Inninety-ninecasesoutofahundredeitherthebelaywillgiveortheropewillbreak.”

OntheContinentinthe1920s,climberswereusingpitonstoprotecttheirleads,butnotinBritain,wherefordecadesthereafterpuristssneeredatwhattheycalled“ironmongery.”Thereisnoevidencethatthe1924expeditionhadanymetalpitons,pitonhammers,orevencarabinersamongtheirgear.(Unfortunately,inTheFightforEverestnoequipmentlistwaspublished.)Thebookmentions“woodenpitons”beingusedtofixropesbelowtheNorthCol,butasthereisnorockontheEastRongbukthere,myguessisthatwhattheywereusingwerelongpicketsmadeofwood.Thesewouldhavebeenofnouseuphigh.

AllthismeansthattheSecondStepwouldhavebeenanutterlyterrifyingpropositionin1924.Irvinewouldhavehadtostandbelayingatthebaseofthefinalcliff,unanchoredtothemountain.HadMalloryfallenanywherewhileclimbinguptheoverhangingcrack,bothmenwouldmostlikelyhavebeenrippedofftheStepandflungheadlongintoafatalfall.

WeknowfromMallory’snotethatheforgothiscompassatCampV.Thatprobablydidn’tmattersomuch,unlesstheywerecaughtinawhiteout,butOdell’sdescriptionoftheweatheronJune8makesthatsoundimprobable.Andweknowfromthe1933discoveryofMallory’sflashlightinCampVIthatheforgotthat

tooonhissummitday.Mostlikelyhealsoforgottotakethemagnesiumflarestobeusedinanemergency,forOdellsawoneortwooftheminthetentatVI.Theabsenceoftheflashlightcouldhavehadseriousconsequencesifthetwomenweredescendinginthedark.

In1924,notonlyweretheoxygencylindersleaky,thewholeapparatusflawed(toIrvine’sconstantdespair),buttherigwasmuchheavierthanwhatwecarried.Ouroutfitweighedfourteenpounds,Mallory’soverthirty.InthatlastnotetoOdell,hecommentsontheburden—“it’sabloodyloadforclimbing.”Thatweightwouldhavesloweddownthefittestclimber.Inaddition,eachofourbottlesgavetwotothreetimesasmuchoxygenasthe1924cylinders.

Finally,intermsofclothing:Malloryhadonleathersingleboots,twopairsofstockingsRuthhadknittedforhim,longunderwear,knickers,andputtees—pictureanAcebandagewrappedaroundtheankleandcalftokeepoutsnow.Onhisupperbody,hehadsevenoreightlayersofsilk,cotton,andwool.Onhishead,whatlookedlikeapilot’scapwithafurlining.

Incontrast,thedayIwentforthetopIhadontwolayersoffleece,asynthethicwindparka,andafulldownsuitwithawind-resistantsurface.Onmyhead,aknithatandthebuilt-indownhoodonmyjacket.Onmyfeet,thicknylonbootsinsulatedwithclosed-cellfoam,withgaitersbuiltintokeepsnowoutoftheankles.Thesuitaloneprovidesthreetofourinchesofinsulation,whichisalotmorethanallsevenoreightofMallory’slayerscombined.Yetevenwithmysnazzystate-of-the-artclothing,I’dgetverycoldwhenIhadtostopandwaitforanylengthoftime.

AnotherimportantconsiderationishowwellhydratedMalloryandIrvinewerewhentheysetoutonJune8.WeknowfromMallory’snotetoOdellthat“ourUnnaCookerrolleddowntheslopeatthelastmoment.”ThelatestthatnotecouldhavebeenwrittenwastheafternoonofJune7,becausetheSherpascarriedthenotedowntoCampVthatday.UnlessMalloryandIrvinehadheatedsnowtofilltheirThermoseswithwaterfortheclimbthenextdayevenbeforecookingdinner,thelossofthestovewouldhavemeanttheyhadnowaterandcouldn’tproperlyhydrate.TheymighthavetriedtofilltheThermoseswithsnowandmeltitwithbodyheatinthenight,butthat’sadesperateemergencymeasure.OnAnnapurnaIVIwasstuckinasnowcaveforfivedaysandtriedthattechniquewithawaterbottle.Itwashorrid:Ifilledthebottlewithsnowandkeptitbetweenmylegsallevening,butmanagedtomeltonlyacupfulofwater.Theprocedurecostsyoumoreinheatlossthanyougaininenergyfromtheliquid.

SoiftheysetoutonthemorningofJune8alreadydehydrated,thatwouldhavetakenadrastictoll.Ontopofthis,Irvinewasterriblysunburned,andsunburndehydratesyoufurther.

Anotherargumentagainsttheirhavingmadethesummithastodowithratesofascent.I’mconvincedthatthefactthatMalloryforgothisflashlightindicatesthattheysetoutatoraftersunrise.Youdon’tforgetyourflashlightifyouleavewhileit’sstilldark.SofarasIcandetermine,nobodyineither1922or1924evergotofffromahighcampbefore6:30inthemorning.Bycontrastthesixofussetoutat2:30A.M.onMay17.

InFirstonEverest:TheMysteryofMallory&Irvine,TomHolzelcalculatesatheoreticalrateofascentforthetwomenof204verticalfeetperhour.ThisformsacrucialpartofhisargumentthatMallorycouldhavemadethetop.IttookDaveandmetwelvehoursandtwentyminutestogofromCampVItothesummit.That’saveragingonly165verticalfeetperhour.DaveandIarerelativelyrapidclimbers,he’dbeentothetopbefore,andwehadthetremendousadvantageoverMalloryandIrvineofcramponsandfixedropes.Ifindithardtobelievetheycouldhaveclimbedsignificantlyfasterthanwedidalongthenortheastridge.

AlloftheseconsiderationsadduptoastrongcaseinmymindthatMalloryandIrvinedidnotsummiton

June8,1924.ButtheclincherformeistheSecondStep.

Firstofall,it’sworthpointingoutthatonthenortheastridge,there’snoalternativetoclimbingtheSecondStepwheretheChinesetiedtheirladder.Ontheprowoftheridge,therockiscompletelyrottenandvertical.Ontheleft,overtheKangshungFace,there’sjustsnowwiththeconsistencyofwhippedcreamplasteredontoverysteepice.It’sprobablyunclimbabletoday,evenwithicetoolsandcramponfront-points,andtherewascertainlynohopeofclimbingitin1924inthetraditionalstyleofchoppingsteps.Totherightoftheladder,therockjustgetssteeperandsteeper.YoucouldtraversefarbeneaththeridgeandgetintotheGreatCouloir,asNortondidonJune4,andsoavoidtheSecondStep.Butonceyou’reabovetheYellowBand,totraverseintotheGreatCouloircouldactuallybemoredifficultanddemandingthantoclimbtheSecondStep.

Let’simaginethatMalloryandIrvinecouldhavegottenupthebottomhalfoftheSecondStep.I’dratethemovesthereasabout5.5,whichMallorycouldhavedone.ButthenIrvinewouldhavehadtostandatthetopofthesnowtriangle,whereDavetiedintotheladder,andtrytogetsomesortofstancewithoutananchor.HewouldhavebelayedMallorywiththatflimsycottonropewrappedaroundhiswaist,exactlyasGeoffreyWinthropYoungbelayedMalloryontheNesthorn.Mallorywouldhavehadtoclimbtheslightlyoverhangingfifteen-footcrackwithoutasinglepieceofprotection.ThecamIwasabletoplaceunderthechockstonesomefifteenfeetupwastheonlypossibleprotection,andthattypeofgearwasn’tinventeduntilthelate1970s.

Evenwithasecurebelay,acamforprotection,agoodnylonrope,andarestontheladderrungIsteppedon,Ifoundthepitchdesperatelyhard.Bythe1920s,afewclimbsashardas5.10onlowlandEuropeancragsliketheElbsandsteingebirgenearDresdenhadbeendone,bywizardswayaheadoftheirtime,usingpitonsorringboltsorropeloopstiedthroughholesintherocks.ButnotbyBritonsinWales:atthetime,thehardestpitchesinGreatBritainwereprobablyatthe5.7to5.8level.Thatsortofpitchisanentirelydifferentpropositionat28,230feetonEverest.

Incidentally,I’mconvinced—asReinholdMessneristoo—thattheChinesedidnotclimbtheSecondStepin1960.It’sunfathomabletothinkoftakingoffyourbootsandtryingthecliffinstockingfeetthere.It’stooconvenientthatreachingthetopinthedarkexplainstheteam’sfailuretobringbacksummitphotos.AndIsuspectthatreportingthecruxofthecliffattheSecondStepasonlythreemetershigh,whenintruthit’sagoodtwenty-fivefeet,wasaconcoctiontomakeitplausiblethatitcouldhavebeensurmountedbyashoulderstand.

EvenifMalloryandIrvinehadmiraculouslyclimbedtheSecondStep,theywouldhavebeenstrandedaboveit.Fewclimbingropesatthetimewerelongerthan100feet.HadtheydoubledtheropearoundtheanchoringboulderatthetopandrappelledtheStep,theropewouldneverhavereached.Norwouldtheyhavebeenabletopulltheropedownfrombelow,becausethebouldersitssofarbackontheshelfthatthefrictionwouldhavebeenprohibitive.Analternativewouldhavebeentotietheropetotheboulder,rappelitsingle-strand,andleavetheropethere.Butnoonesincehaseverfoundanytraceofananchororaropefrom1924abovetheSecondStep.

EvenifIhadsuccessfullyfree-climbedtheStep,there’snowayIcouldhavedown-climbedit.SomepeoplehavewonderedwhetherMalloryandIrvinemighthavefallentotheirdeathstryingtodojustthat.Butifthey’dcomeoffthere,theywouldhavefallenallthewaytotheRongbukGlacier.

There’sonepossibleloopholeinthismatter.If1924wasanunusuallyheavyyearforsnow,it’sconceivablethatasnowconecouldhavedriftedin,coveringtheverticalcliffsoftheSecondStep,inwhichcaseMalloryandIrvinecouldhavejustwalkedupthecone.DuringMaythatyear,theexpeditionwashitbyonestormafteranother.Butonthenorthface,snowdoesn’tstaylong—ittendstogetquickly

blownoff.InthefewphotosI’veseenfrom1924,evenfromfarbelowyoucanseethethinblackbandoftheupperSecondStep.TheonlyexpeditioninrecentyearstoreportanythinglikeasnowconeherewasthatoftheCatalansin1985,buttheycametoEverestintheautumnseason,afterthemonsoon.Eventheyhadtoclimbthetopfourorfiverungsoftheladder.

Inmyheart,I’vealwayswantedtobelieveMalloryandIrvinecouldhaveclimbedthemountainin1924.Itwouldhavemadeforoneoftheultimateofallmountaineeringtales.Itmakesmesadtobeontheskeptical,debunkingsideofthedebate,butforallthereasonsI’velaidoutabove,IbelievethereisnopossiblewayMalloryandIrvinecouldhavereachedthesummit.

WHATDOITHINKhappened,then,onJune8,1924?

ImagineMalloryandIrvineatCampVIthatmorning,lookingtowardthesummit.ForMallory,thiswasthemountainofhisdreams.Hewastheonlymanwho’dtriedEverestonthreeexpeditions;now,afteramonthofdefeat,hehadonelastchance.Hehadtheresourcesandtheweathertogiveitagoodshot.

Butthepairofmenweretiredfromthetoughtwo-dayclimbupfromtheNorthCol.Irvinehadterriblesunburn,hislipscracked,piecesofhisskinpeelingoffwheneverhisfacerubbedagainstanything.Probablytheireyesweresore,fromthegritandsun—evenwithmoderngoggles,Ipickupthatirritationathighaltitude.Byevening,myeyesareredandfeelveryscratchy.Thesunaddsasignificantdebilitatingfactortoanyeffortataltitude,onetoooftenunderestimated.

It’spossibletheyusedoxygentosleep,butI’dguesstheysaveditfortheclimb.Withoutoxygen,it’sdifficulttosleepatthataltitude.Youdevelopacyclicbreathingpattern—fastandshallowbreathsalternatingwithnobreathsatall—whichwakesyouupagainandagain.It’sanautonomicreactionofthebodytolackofoxygen.SoI’dguesstheywenttobedearly,butjusttossedandturnedmostofthenight.

Andmaybeinthemorning,Irvinemadedesperatelast-minuterepairstotheoxygenapparatus.Idon’tbuyOdell’snotionthathemighthavejustbeenputtering,“invent[ing]someproblemtobesolvedevenifitneverreallyhadturnedup.”Oxygenproblemscouldhavedelayedtheirgettingoffinthemorning.Andagain,itseemscertainthatitwaslightwhentheyleft,becauseMalloryforgothisflashlight.

Theyheadedupusingoxygen,probablytwobottlesperman,maybeataflowofabouttwolitersperminute.TheyclimbedthroughtheYellowBand,whichinitselfistrying,difficultterrain.TomHolzelarguesthatabottlewouldhavelastedthemalittlemorethanfourhours,butIdon’tthinkyoucanbethatprecise,somanythingscangowrongataltitude.Inanyevent,theydiscardedabottlebetweenthetopoftheYellowBandandtheFirstStep,whereTapandJakefounditthisyear.

Evenwithoxygen,altitudeconfusesyoursenseoftime.Youthinkyou’vebeendoingsomethingforfifteenminutes,butyou’vebeendoingitforanhour.AmetaphoroccurredtomeaftermyexperiencethisyearonEverest.Ataltitude,it’sasifthere’sahouseburning,andthehousethat’sburningisyou,buteverything’shappeningatsuchadragged-outpaceyoucan’tdoanythingaboutit.Youjustwatchthehouseburndown.

MalloryandIrvinemayhavebeentakingfourorfivebreathsforeachstep.Ortheymayhavetakenasmanyasfourteenorfifteen—that’snotuncommonamongmodernclimbers,evenwithoxygen.Nomatterwhat,I’msuretheirpacewasslowerthanMalloryhadhoped.TheymadethelongdiagonaltraversefromthetopoftheYellowBandtotheFirstStep.I’mconvincedtheyclimbedtheFirstStep,andthatsomewherenearthereiswhereOdellsawthemat12:50.ButthentheyfacedthetrickytraversefromtheFirstSteptotheSecond.Itwouldhavebeenamazingtohaveclimbedthisin1924,anditwouldmeanthatthey’dgottenaboutahundredfeethigherthanNortonhadfourdaysbefore.Thatinturnmeansthatnobodygothigheronthesurfaceoftheearthforthenexttwenty-eightyears.

Butsomewhereonthattraverse,theyrecognizedthatitwasn’tinthecards,thattheyweren’tgoingtomakeittothetop.Ifthey’dhadanexceptionalclimbingday,andeverythinghadgoneright,theymighthavereachedthefootoftheSecondStep.Buttheyturnedback.NowthesnowsquallthatOdellreportedblewin.Thenewsnowwouldhavefilledtheirtracks,meaningthattheyhadtotrytofindtheroutealloveragainonthewaydown.ThetrickyparteventodayisfindingtheexitcracksatthetopoftheYellowBand.

MyguessisthatMallorywasgoingfirst:hewouldn’thavelefttheroute-findinguptoIrvine.AndjustasIstartedtodowithDave,hestarteddowntheYellowBandtooearly,toofarwest.Atsomepointintheafternoon,theweatherclearedupagain,andOdelllookedforhisfriends,butiftheywereintherocksoftheYellowBandasopposedtooutlinedagainstthesky,therewaslittlechancehecouldspotthem.

WeknowthatMalloryandIrvinewereropedtogether.Atthetime,acommonpracticeonmoderatemixedgroundwastotravelropedtogether,withthesecondmancarryingcoils.Itturnsouttobeanincrediblydangerouspractice—theverychoreofmanagingtheropeandmaintainingasteadydistancebetweenclimberscancauseaccidents,andthechanceofoneman’sbelayingandstoppingtheother’sfallisslimatbest.Yetaslateasthe1960s,mountaineerswerestillteachingthistechnique.

TherearemanyplaceswhereyoucanclimbthroughtheYellowBand.Muchofitliesatthattrickyanglewhereyou’retornbetweendown-climbingandrappelling.Therocksarealldownslopingandloose.Mallorywouldhavebeenintenselyfocusedhere.AndI’dguessthateitheritwasapproachingduskorthemenweredescendinginthesquall,sohetookoffhisgogglestoseetherockbetter.Theywouldhavebeenmovingtogetherontheeasierparts,maybestoppingtogivealittlebelayontheharderstretches—theropehookedoveraprongorcorner,likethe“nick”GeoffreyWinthropYoungusedtobelayMalloryontheNesthorn.

SinceMay1,I’vethoughtalotaboutMallory’shands.Whywasn’thewearinggloves?Hehadthesparepairoffingerlessknitglovesinhispocket,buttheylookedasthoughthey’dneverbeenused.Theotherthingthatstruckmeatonceisthatthehandsshowednosignsoffrostbite.

Anumberofpeople,especiallythosewhowouldliketobelieveMalloryandIrvinemadethesummit,havehypothesizedthattheyspentthenightofJune8inanopenbivouac,thenfelldescendingontheninth.Butwiththeirclothing,therewouldhavebeennowaytospendanightoutabove27,000feetandnotsufferseriousfrostbite.Whenyourfingersfreeze,theydevelop“blebs,”puffyblisters,althoughittakesthemfromtwenty-fourtoforty-eighthourstoswellup.Mallory’sfingersshowednosignofblebs.OnMay16thisyear,duringthesecondsearch,ThomPollardhaddugupMallory’sface.Iaskedhimiftherewasanysignoffrostbite;hesaidno.Unlikethefingers,thenoseandcheeksreactrightawaytofrostbite,turningfirstwhiteandgray,thenblack.

TheabsenceoffrostbiteonMallory’smummifiedbodyprovestomethathediedonJune8,notthenextday.Asthebloodceasestoflowupondeath,adeceasedpersondoesn’tdevelopfrostbite.

Myhunchisthatwhenhefell,Malloryhadtakenoffhisglovessothathecouldfaceinwardandgrasptherocksbetter.Maybeitwasdarkbythen,anddown-climbinginthedark,withnoflashlight,wouldhavebeenallbutimpossible.

Everyonehaswonderedwhetheronemanfellandpulledtheotheroff,orifIrvinebelayedMallory’sfallandtheropebrokeoveranedge.Inthelattercase,Irvinewouldhavebeenlefttotrytodescendaloneinthedark.ThisscenariomightfitwellwithWangHongbao’s“oldEnglishdead”—maybetheChineseclimberin1975foundIrvinewherehehadtriedtowaitoutthenightandhadfrozentodeath.ButIdoubtit,foronegoodreason.IfIrvinehadbelayedMalloryandtheropehadbrokenwhenMallory’sweight

cameonit,theropewouldhavepartednearIrvine’send.Instead,wefounditbrokenonlysometenfeetawayfromMallory’swaist.

Ithink,then,thatonemanpulledtheotheroff(itcouldhavebeenIrvine,comingsecond,whofell),thatbothmenplungeddownthemountaintogether,andthattheropesawedoverarockedge.That’shappenedoftenovertheyears,evenwithgoodnylonropes.AndifI’mright,theplacetolookforIrvineisnotinHemmleb’ssearchzone,whichisupandleft,oreast,ofwhereIfoundMallory,butrathertotherightorwestofMallory,becausewhentheaccidenthappenedtheywouldhavebeendiagonalingdownandeastwardwithMalloryinthelead.

Inmyscenario,asMalloryfell,theropetangledaroundhim.Theinitialimpactcameonhisrightside.It’ssignificanttoothatitwashisrightlegthatwassobadlybroken.Itwashisrightanklethathe’dbrokenin1909,andonEverestin1924,itwashisrightleg,fromtheankleuptothehip,thatwasstillgivinghimtrouble.Nodoubttheinitialbreakhadpermanentlyweakenedtheleg.

I’malsoquitesurethatMallorydidn’tfallfromallthewayuponthenortheastridge—sayfromwheretheiceaxewasfoundin1933.ThetwomodernbodiesIfoundjustbeforeIdiscoveredMallory—theGreeter,andtheguyinthefadedbluesuit—weresomuchmorebrokenup,theirlimbssprawledeverywhichway,theirheadsdownhill.Thosetwohadfallenfromtheridge,I’dventure.ButMallory’sbodywasn’tsocontorted,andhisheadwasuphill.I’dguesshefellonlysome300to400verticalfeet,whichwouldmeanhecameoffnearthebottomoftheYellowBand.Eveninthedark,hemighthavebeenclosetopullingoffasuccessfulretreat.

Washestillalivewhenhecametorest?It’shardtosay.TheholeinhisforeheadthatThomdiscoveredmayhavebeentheinjurythatkilledhim.Butthehandsplantedinthescreelookedlikethoseofamanstilltryingtoself-arrestwithhisfingers.Ithinkhewasfightingtotheveryend.

Thepositionofhislegssuggestshesetthemthatwaytorelievethepain.Ifso,hissynapseswerestillfiring,andbeforehelapsedintounconsciousnesshemayhavethoughtforamomentthatheandIrvinecouldhavemadeittocampsafely.Quicklyandsilentlyshocksetin,asMallorybecameonewiththeMotherGoddessoftheSnows.

MYBELIFEthatMallorycouldnothavereachedthesummitdoesnothingtodiminishmyfascinationwiththeman.

Lastspring,IembarkedonourexpeditionwithsummittingEverestasmyprimarygoal.Ifeltthatagrandopportunityhadpresenteditself,eventhoughmanyofmyclimbingpeersandIweredoubtfulthatwe’dfindanything.Ahighschoolfriendhadchuckled,“Soundslikeyou’velandedabigfish.”AchancetogotoEverest,hemeant,withnocostsattached.Abitdefensively,Ianswered,“Youneverknowwhatyoumightfind,especiallyinastaticenvironmentlikethehighHimalaya.”

AllmyfeelingschangedonMay1.AsIdiscoveredthebodyofGeorgeMallory,Irealizedwehadreopenedachapterinourclimbingheritage.SittingnexttoMallorygavemeadeepappreciationforwhathe’ddoneandstoodfor.

AlonewithSandyIrvine,afterthesunhadset,ontheimmensenorthfaceofEverest,thenearestotherteammate4,000feetbelowwithnopossibleknowledgewherethetwomenwere,orthattheyneededhelp—thatinitselfwasaremarkableplacetohavearrived.Thewholejourneyhadbeenanepicvoyage:bysteamerfromLiverpooltoBombay,overlandbytraintoDarjeeling,acrosstheHimalayancrestonpony-backtothelittle-knownregionsofTibet,overremotepassesintounexploredvalleys.ThustheclimbersventuredtocrackthepuzzleofwhathadcometobecalledtheThirdPole.Withthemtheyhauledvaststoresofequipment—cutting-edgegearfortheday,utterlyrudimentarybyourstandards.

Themysteryofaltitudeitselfhadscarcelybeenprobed.Toknow,aswedotoday,thatEveresthasbeenclimbedsoloandwithoutbottledoxygenmakesthechallengelessintimidating.EvenwiththeknowledgeMalloryhadgainedaboutaltitudein1921and’22,itremainedanunsolvedquestionwhetheritwashumanlypossibletoclimbto29,000feetandsurvive.EachsteptheclimberstookaboveCampVIin1924wasastepintotheterraincognitaofthemind.

SittingbesideMalloryonMay1,IlookedeasttowardthedescentrouteheandIrvinewouldhavetakenhadtheysummittedthatJune8.IimaginedMallory’sawarenesseveninextremis:noradiotocommunicatewithothers,nochainoffixedropestoguidehimdownthemountain,noteamsofrestedclimbersreadytoenactarescue,nowayoftellingtheworldwhatreallyhappened.

IcanonlyguesswhatMallory’sandIrvine’slastmomentswerelike,butwhatIdoknowishowtheirachievementhasaffectedourclimbinglegacy.Theboldnessoftheirlastclimbformedastepping-stonetothefuture.Thedebateoveroxygenanditsultimateacceptancemadeitpossiblefortheirsuccessors—includingHillaryandTenzing—tovisithighplaceswithareasonablesafetymargin.

SometimeslateatnightIwonderwhetherbydiscoveringMalloryI’veaidedinthedestructionofamystery.Thepossibilityhauntsme.Hasmyfindsomehowtakensomeoftheenigmaticgloryawayfromthe1924expedition?

Othersmaythinkso,yetforme,thediscoveryonlyincreasesmyadmirationforthesepioneerclimbers,whosestory—whichwillneverbetoldinitsentirety—hasalwayslainwrappedinthesecretsofChomolungma,MotherGoddessoftheSnows.Ifeelprivilegedtohaveparticipatedincastingnewlightontothismystery.Ultimately,MalloryandIrvine’sgreatestachievementwasaninspirationalone,foreveninfailure,theirmagnificentattemptshoweduswhatthehumanspiritiscapableof.

DR

ASTHESURVIVINGMEMBERSofthe1924expeditionretreatedfromthemountain,theyengagedinlongconversationsaboutwhatmusthavehappenedtotheirvanishedfriends.EvenbeforetheyhadleftBaseCamp,TeddyNortonconvenedaconferencetodiscussthematter.EverymemberbutOdellconcurredinthinkingthatthemostlikelycourseofeventshadbeenwhatindeedwenowknowhappened:“asimplemountaineeringaccident—aslipandsuddendeath.”Odelladamantlyheldoutfortheviewthatthetwomenhaddelayedtheirreturnuntilitwastoolate,thenhad“wanderedaboutinthedarknesslookingfor[CampVI]untiltheyfinallysuccumbedtoexhaustionandexposure.”

OdellsimplycouldnotbelievethatMallorywouldhavefallen.AshewroteinTheFightforEverest,“ItisdifficultforanywhoknewtheskillandexperienceofGeorgeMalloryonallkindsandconditionsofmountaingroundtobelievethathefell,andwherethedifficultiestohimwouldbesoinsignificant.”AsforIrvine,hewas“anaturaladept”;inSpitsbergen,hehadproven“abletomovesafelyandeasilyonrockandice.”

TheirteammatespuzzledincessantlyoverwhytheyhadseennobeamfromaflashlightthenightofJune8,butnotuntil1933wouldtheylearnthatMalloryhadlefthisflashlightinthetentatCampVI.SirFrancisYounghusband,inTheEpicofMountEverest,wentsofarastosurmisethat,inahopelesspredicament,MalloryandIrvinemighthaverefusedtoshinetheirflashlightoutofasenseof“chivalry,”lesttheydrawtheirteammatesintounnecessarydangertryingtorescuethem.

NortonclaimedthatheandMalloryhadagreedonaturn-arounddeadlineof4:00P.M.OdellfoundithardtoreconcilehistheoryofbenightmentwiththisevidenceofMallory’sprudence,butconcludedthathisfriend’s“cravingforvictory”hadbecomeanobsessionthat“mayhavebeentoostrongforhim.”John

Noellikewisespeculated,inhismemoir,TheStoryofEverest:

YoucanimaginehowMallory’senergyofnerve,brainandmusclemusthaverisentothesupremeeffortofhislife….Thegoalwasintheirgrasp.Shouldtheyturnbackandloseit?…Mighttheynotindeedthroweveryotherthoughttothewindtowinsuchaprize?

OnamoraineheapnearBaseCamp,Somervellandseveralportersbuiltaten-foot-highcairnmemorializingthedeadofallthreeEverestexpeditions,withtheirnamescarvedintosmoothslabs.FromBase,NortonsentarunneroffwithacodedmessagetobecabledtoLondon:“MALLORYIRVINENOVEREMAINDERALCEDO.”

Thismessage,whichhasneverbeenpubliclyexplicated,appearstohaveusedcodewordslinkedtopossibleevents—justlikethe1999team’s“gorak”for“camera”and“boulder”for“body.”In1924,thecodewordsmayhavehadLatinassociations.“Nove”means“new”or“fresh”;inthesuperlative,“novissime”means“inthelastplace.”“Alcedo”referstothekingfisherand,morespecifically,to“thefourteendaysinwinter,whenthekingfisherlaysitseggsandtheseaiscalm.”

Ontheoriginaltelegram,receivedinLondononJune19,someonehaspenciled“killedinlastengagement”nextto“NOVE,”and“arrivedbaseallingoodorder”nextto“ALCEDO.”

AccordingtobiographerDavidRobertson,“RuthreceivedthenewsinCambridgefromarepresentativeofthepress.Shewentoutforalongwalkwitholdfriends.”

Ateighty-three,ClareMillikanrememberspreciselyhowshelearnedofherfather’sdeathwhenshewaseight.“Itwasgetting-uptime,”shesays.“Mothertookusintoherbedroom.Wealllayinbedtogether,withherarmsaroundus.Thenshetoldus.Therewasnothingconfusingaboutit.Hewasn’t‘missing’—hewasquitedefinitelydead.Hewasn’tcomingback.”

Thewholecountrywentintomourning.Fifty-nineyearsearlier,inthemostfamousmountaineeringaccidentbeforeMalloryandIrvine’s,whenfourmen,includingthearistocratLordFrancisDouglas,losttheirlivesinalongfallcomingdownfromthefirstascentoftheMatterhorn,QueenVictoriahadcondemnedthepastime.Butintheinterim,EnglandhadturneditslostexplorersRobertFalconScottandhisfourcompanions,whohaddiedin1912ontheirreturnfromtheSouthPole,intomartyr-heroes.NowKingGeorgeVsenthisdeepestsympathiestothefamiliesofMalloryandIrvine.Endorsingthenation’sprideinitsbravedead,theMorningPosteditorialized,“ThespiritwhichanimatedtheattacksonEverestisthesameasthatwhichpromptedarcticandotherexpeditions,andinearliertimesledtotheformationoftheEmpireitself.”

OnOctober17,amemorialserviceforthetwomenwasheldinSt.Paul’sCathedral.Thatevening,atajointmeetingoftheAlpineClubandtheRoyalGeographicalSociety,NortonsaidofMallory,“Afireburntinhim….Hewasabsolutelydeterminedtoconquerthemountain….Hisdeathleavesuspoorerbyaloyalfriend,agreatmountaineer,andagallantgentleman.”Mallory’smentor,GeoffreyWinthropYoung,spokeinhisobituaryoftheman’s“burningspiritofchivalrous,youthfuladventure,flamingattheclose.”InYoung’srecollection,Malloryhadbeen“‘SirGalahad’alwaystohisearlyfriends.”Intheexpeditionbook,GeoffreyBrucecalledhim“theBayardoftheMountains—‘sanspeuretsansreproche’[fearlessandbeyondreproach].”WroteHowardSomervellinAfterEverest:

Dulceetdecorumestpropatriamori;andsurelydeathinbattleagainstamountainisafinerandnoblerthingthandeathwhilstattemptingtokillsomeoneelse.Thelossofthesesplendidmenispartofthepricethathasbeenpaidtokeepalivethespiritofadventure.Withoutthisspiritlifewouldbeapoorthing,andprogressimpossible.

HandinhandwiththisapotheosisofMalloryandIrvinecamethesentimentthatEverestwasafittingplacetodie,“thefinestcenotaphintheworld,”inSomervell’sphrase.SirFrancisYounghusbandmadetheobservation,inTheEpicofMountEverest,that“thereinthearmsofMountEveresttheylieforever—lie10,000feetabovewhereanymanhaslainindeathbefore.”Younghusband’saltitudewasexaggerated—theSherpaskilledbelowtheNorthColin1922layatthatmomententombediniceonly4,000feetbelowMallory’sbody—butthethoughtwasatonceastartlingandanenthrallingone.

FromthemomentthenewsbrokeinEngland,thegreatquestionofwhetherMalloryandIrvinehadreachedthesummitpreoccupiedallwhotooknoticeofthetragedy.NoelOdellbelievedthathisfriendshadclimbedEverest:ashewroteintheLondonTimesonJuly10,“Consideringallthecircumstancesandthepositiontheyhadreachedonthemountain,Ipersonallyamof[the]opinionthatMalloryandIrvinemusthavereachedthesummit.”GeneralCharlesBruceagreed,asdidTomLongstaffandGeoffreyWinthropYoung.Wrotethelatter,“Afternearly20years’knowledgeofMalloryasamountaineer,Icansay…thatdifficultasitwouldhavebeenforanymountaineertoturnbackwiththeonlydifficultypast—toMalloryitwouldhavebeenanimpossibility.”

Thesemen,ofcourse,wereswayedbytheirfriendshipwithMalloryandadmirationofhisdrive.Themembersofthe1933expedition—perhapsfortheoppositereason,fortheyhadnotventuredtoTibettomakethesecondascentofEverest—wereconvincedtoamanthatMalloryandIrvinehadnotreachedthetop.

Beneaththepublicoutpouringofadmirationandsorrow,Mallory’sclosestfriendssorelymissedhim.Tryingtostrikeablufftone,RobertGraveswroteRuth:“MyonlyconsolationisthatheoncetoldmeonSnowdonthathe’dhopedtodielikethat,climbing….SolikeGeorgetochoosethehighestandmostdangerousmountainintheworld!Ididlovehim.”

Amonthaftershehadlearnedthenews,stillbesideherselfwithgrief,RuthwrotetoGeoffreyWinthropYoung,

Whetherhegottothetopofthemountainordidnot,whetherhelivedordied,makesnodifferencetomyadmirationforhim.IthinkIhavegotthepainseparate.Thereissomuchofit,anditwillgoonsolong,thatImustdothat….

OhGeoffrey,ifonlyithadn’thappened!Itsoeasilymightnothave.

Sometimeinthefirstweeksafterlosingherfather,ClareMillikanhadavividdream.“WhenIwasyoung,”sherecalls,“duringthewar,he’dalwayscomeandgonealotfromthefrontinFrance.Iwouldlookoveranembankment,seehistrain,seehimcomingtowardus.

“Inmydream,Ilookedovertheembankment,sawthetrain,sawhimgetoutandwalktowardus.Itwasaverypainfulawakening.”

Seventy-fiveyearsafterhisfatalfall,thelegendofGeorgeLeighMalloryshowsnosignsofdimming.Whetherornothereachedthesummit,thereisnodenyingthatthemanwasageniusofascent,andthatEverestbroughtoutthefinestinhim.Thefriendswhoknewhimbestkeptcomingbacktothattalismanicfact.ForGeoffreyWinthropYoung,grievingthelossofhisprotégé,thesummitmusthavebeenreached,inthefinalanalysis,simply“becauseMallorywasMallory.”Andaquarter-centuryafterhisdisappearance,YoungrememberedablitheroutethepairhadclimbedinWales:“Thelaughinghourschasedeachotherunnoticed….Onadaylikethis,andinmovement,Mallorywaswhollyinharmonywithinhimself,andwiththeworld,andnothingcouldgivehimpause.”

Acknowledgments

DR

THEWORKofpreviousscholarsonMalloryandEveresthasbeeninvaluabletousinresearchingTheLostExplorer.Inparticular,AudreySalkeldandTomHolzel’sFirstonEverest:TheMysteryofMallory&Irvineoffersadeftsynthesisofcharacterandclimbingdeeds;DavidPye’sGeorgeLeighMallory:AMemoirbenefitsfromPye’sfriendshipwithhissubject;DavidRobertson’sdefinitivebiography,GeorgeMallory,isrichinquotationsfromtheprivateletters;HerbertCarr’sTheIrvineDiariesaffordsacloserlookatMallory’spartner,sooftenrelegatedtotheshadows;andWaltUnsworth’scomprehensiveEverestisagoldmineofinformationforalltheexpeditionstothemountainbetween1921and1988.Thethreemassiveofficialexpeditionbooksfromthe1920s—MountEverest:TheReconnaissance,1921;TheAssaultonMountEverest,1922;andTheFightforEverest—areirreplaceable.ThelibraryoftheAmericanAlpineClubinGolden,Colorado,lentmetheseclassictomes,andservedasawelcomerepositoryforotherscholarlymaterialsIwouldhavebeenhardputtofindelsewhere.

Tothemembersofthe1999Mallory&IrvineResearchExpedition,aswellastoLieslClarkofPBS/NOVAandPeterPotterfieldofMountainZone,weoweaspecialdebtforsharingtheirknowledgeandtheirexperiencesonthemountainlastspring.KathmandumountaineeringhistorianElizabethHawleyfilledindetailsnooneelseseemedtohaveathand.

IfeelalastinggratitudetomyeditorandlongtimefriendJohnRasmus,whoassignedmeastoryaboutfindingMalloryforNationalGeographicAdventure,whichledindirectlytothisbook.Rasmus’scolleaguesatthemagazinewereagreathelpthroughout.JonKrakauerreadeachchapterindraftandgaveussuperbadviceandconstantencouragement.DavidBreashearsandGalenRowelllenttheirsupportandexpertise,basedontheirownvastexperienceonEverest.AgentJohnWareshepherdedtheprojectfromstarttofinishwithconsummateskill.AndmyeditoratSimon&Schuster,BobBender—myloyalciceronethroughfourbooksnow—madeTheLostExplorerhappen,notwithouttheperspicaciousaidofhisassistant,JohannaLi.

Finally,IfeelawarmappreciationforClare,Rick,andGeorgeMillikan,friendsandclimbingpartnerssincetheearly1960s,throughwhoseuniqueconnectiontotheheroofthisbookIfirstbegantoknowGeorgeMallory.

CA

IWOULDLIKETOTHANKmyparentsfortheirmanyyearsofsupportforandencouragementofthislifeIlead;BeckyHall,forherloveandunderstanding;andAlexLowe,forhiscontinuedfriendship.

Index

Aconcagua,142AfterEverest(Somervell),178Alaska,13-14,97,98,99-101AlfWear,98AlpineClub,83,178AlpineJournal,50Alps,24,45,47-48,50,52-53,77,80,83,86,109altimeter,ofMallory,36altituderecords,24,40,71-72,83,87,88,124-25,126,171AmaDablam,28AmericanAlpineClub,97AmericanAlpineJournal,15,97,151André,Salomon,28AngPasang,140,141,143-44,147,148,158AngRita,140Angtarkay,111Anker,Conrad,63,65,66,67backgroundof,96-103Buddhismand,15,70-71,102,103endurancelimitof,159onfateofMalloryandIrvine,170-75firstascentsby,15,29,96-97,98mountaineeringabilityof,15,96,97,98-99mountaineeringwritingsof,15,97andplanofbook,16previoushighestclimbof,31,96assponsoredclimber,96-97,102onwhetherMalloryandIrvinereachedthesummit,163-70

Anker,Helga,97Anker,Wally,97Annapurna,40,80

AnnapurnaIV,31,167Antarctica,30,31,57,67,98,146,157,177ascenders,141,144,148AssaultonMountEverest,1922,The,65,84-85,86-87,88,90Australia,62,162avalanches,89-90bacteria,155“ballofknowledge,”99balloonexpedition,toNorthPole,28Bass,Dick,99Bass,John,99BBC,29,60,70Bear,The(Faulkner),20Beetham,Bentley,71,109,111,118Belgrade,66Bell,CliveandVanessa,44Benson,Arthur,42,43Berkeley,Calif.,13Bhotias,110BigOakFlat,Calif.,97“BigThree”Patagoniantowers,98Birkenhead,48-49,112BlackCuillins,45Blanc,Mont,41,50,53,80

blebs,172Bloomsbury,44,45,75,92Boardman,Pete,39Bonington,SirChris,64,66boots:hobnailed,19,72,139,164oldvs.modern,85,164whippedofffeetinfall,32seealsocrampons

BoswelltheBiographer(Mallory),49Bouddanath,70,71,156Breashears,David,27,63Brice,Russell,54,55,95,104-5,154Bridge,Ann(CottieSanders),42,45-46,48

Bridges,Robert,112BritishEmpire,74BritishMuseum,67Brontë,Emily,112Brooke,Rupert,51-52Bruce,Charles,42,83,108,109,111,178Bruce,Geoffrey,83,88-89,109,114,117,118,119-21,122,123,124,127,178Buddhism,15,30,70-71,102,103,142Bullock,Guy,75,76,77,78,79,80,81,82,84Burke,Mick,39CambridgeUniversity,40,41,42-44,45,51,69,91,92,112,114,163Canada,12,97“carboloading,”142Carr,Herbert,112,113Carter,H.Adams,151CerroStanhardt,98CerroTorre,98ChangLa,77Charterhousepublicschool,50-51,75Cheesmond,Dave,27China,66,69,162ChinaReconstructs,72,150,151Chineseembassy,inBelgrade,66Chomolungma,79,175ChoOyu,57,140ChuYin-hua,150-51Clark,Liesl,55,56-57,59,61,67-68,69Cliffhanger,61Columbus,Ohio,136“coolies,”77,78-79Copitko,Vasil,93-94,106Copland,Erin,55,57,59,60,61Coval,Roman,106crampons,17,85,124,141,164,168Crawford,Colin,89CulturalRevolution,69Czechoslovakia,105

DailyTelegraph(London),64,75DalaiLama,71DaNuru“Dawa,”140,141,143-44,147-48,158Darjeeling,21,23,49,69,81,82,174Debrouwer,Pascal,162Denali(MountMcKinley),13,14,57,94,99,100,142dexamethasone,95Douglas,LordFrancis,177down-climbing,157,172downhillalignment,offallvictims,32,173Dublin,51Earhart,Amelia,12EasternEurope,105EastRongbukGlacier,78,80,81,84,87,113Eiger,83Elbsandsteingebirge,168ElCapitan,98endorphins,104EpicofMountEverest,The(Younghusband),176,178Ethiopia,59Everest,Mallory’s1921expeditionto,23,74-82endof,81-82membersof,74,75,80,81newspapercoverageof,75reconnaissanceofEverestconductedon,75,76-79,84team’saccountof,seeMountEverest:TheReconnaissance,1921weatherconditionson,75,76,77,80-81

Everest,Mallory’s1922expeditionto,23,36,42,82-91,108,116altituderecordsseton,87,88,124

avalanchefatalitieson,89-91,110-11,178iceaxebelayon,87-88,165lossofNorton’spackon,85-86membersof,83,89summitattemptsmadeon,86-87,88-90,118team’saccountof,seeAssaultonMountEverest,1922,Theweatherconditionson,84,86,88

Everest,Mallory’s1924expeditionto,23-30,39-53,84,87,107,108-34,150,175-80

altituderecordsseton,24,40,71-72,124-25,126,171cameracarriedbyMalloryon,28,35,36,38,63,129,135,163clothingwornon,21,123,166finalsightingofMalloryandIrvineon,11-12,25,26,39-40,72,130,144,150firstsummitattemptsmadeon,122-28foodon,124IrvineasMallory’schosenpartneron,11,24,113-14,116,127Irvine’sdiaryon,24,114-15,116,122letterscarriedbyMalloryon,35,61,66,67-69,163MalloryandIrvineropedtogetheron,171-72MalloryandIrvine’ssummitattempton,22-23,25-28,110,128-34,147,151Mallory’sclimbingplanfor,110Mallory’screvassefallon,119Mallory’sfatalismabout,92,108Mallory’sflashlighton,36,131,166,170,176membersof,83,108-91933discoveryoficeaxefrom,26NortonandSomervell’ssummitattempton,24notefromMallorytoNoelon,23,130,166porterproblemson,116-18,119-21,122possiblefateofMalloryandIrvineon,170-74,176questionofwhetherMalloryandIrvinereachedthesummiton,12,13,15,28,39-40,62-63,69,71,72,163-70,178-80rateofascenton,167,171sleepingbagsignalon,26,133sunburnsufferedbyIrvineon,122-23,128,167,170team’saccountof,seeFightforEverest,Theweatherconditionson,23-24,111,116,117,119-20,166,169,171wristwatchwornbyMalloryon,139

Everest,Mount:altitudeatsummitof,23-24,126ConferenceRockon,142-43difficultyof,76,80,156,162exitcrackson,94,160,171firstascentfromnorthclaimed,26firstofficialascentof,12FirstStepof,26,40,94,125,143-44,145,146,154,158,161,162,165

fossilsfoundon,25,130GreatCouloirof,33,72,125-26,150,168KangshungFaceof,144,156,168Mallory’sfirstsightof,76Mallory’sobsessionwith,11,24,53,76,82-83,91,110Mallory’sunderestimationof,80,108,131memorialcairnon,176-77monsoonseasonon,24,27,75,76,77,80-81,84,89,127,169mountaineersloston,39,106MushroomRockon,144,145,147,151,158-59NorthColof,54,77,78,79-81,84,85,89,90,92,95,104,107,110,117,118,119,121,123,124,127,128,129,140,152,164,170,178northeastridgeof,77,94,110,142,161-62northeastshoulderof,83northfaceof,17,25,27,28,39,72,83,88,89,95northridgeof,28,72,150-51Odelloninhospitablenessof,132-33“oldEnglishdead”bodyfoundon,26-27,28,29,38,72,151,173oldestclimbersof,64

Plateauon,153-54recordformostascentsof,140SecondStepof,26,33,71,72,85,107,125,143,144,147,148-53,154,158,161-62,163,165-66,167-69SouthColof,72southernapproachesto,84SouthSummitof,157southwestfaceof,39,64summitpyramidof,25,40,80,154ThirdStepof,154,157,165Tibetannamefor,79YellowBandcliffsof,94,125,141,150,158,159-60,164-65,168,170,171-72,173

Everest,1999searchexpeditionto,17-25,30-38,54-73,78,86,135-60,161-63Ankerrecruitedfor,29-30burialofMalloryon,37,140conditionofMallory’sbodyasfoundon,21-22,35,36,37,139,172-73descentfromsummitbyAnkerandHahnon,157-60DNAsampletakenfromMallory’sbodyon,22,37,64excavationofMallory’sbodyon,33-36,59

free-climbingofSecondStepattemptedbyAnkeron,71,148-53,163,169Mallory’s“artifacts”foundon,35,60-61,66-69,139,162-63Mallory’sbodydiscoveredon,14-15,16,19-22,28,33-34,38,55,56,59,60,63,66,84mediaandInternetcoverageof,29,38,55,56-57,58-66,71,74,106,162membersof,22,301924oxygenbottlefoundon,143officialtitleof,96otherbodiesdiscoveredon,32,33,56,153-54,160,173photographstakenofMallory’sbodyon,22,34,60,61-62,64,66,162pujaceremoniesheldfor,70-71reactionsandcriticismsevokedby,62-66rescueofUkrainianclimberson,73,93-96,103-6searchvs.reachingsummitasgoalof,30,71,135secondsearchofMallory’sbodyon,138-40summitreachedbyAnkerandHahnon,153-56weatherconditionson,30,73,135,143,146,154

EverestCommittee,74,75,83Everestexpeditions,29,30,40,96,138documentaryfilmson,631933British,26,36,1311938British,261952Soviet,271953Hillary?Tenzing,12,28,771960Chinese,26,72,150-51,168-691975Chinese,26-27,29,31,38,56,72,144,148,151,1731978HabelerandMessner,1261979Sino-Japanese,261980Messner,33,721986U.S.,271988Czech,391985Catalan,1691994Rheinberger-Whetu,146-47,155,1571996Indian,153-541996Japanese,1541999Belgian,161-621999Polish,161-621999Ukrainian,54,73,93-96,103-6,143,145,158

Everest:TheMysteryofMalloryandIrvine,63Eyetooth,99-100Faulkner,William,20FightforEverest,The,65-66,71,111,112,118,120,123,127,132-33,134,164,165,176Finch,George,83-84,88-89,124Firstbrook,Peter,70FirstonEverest(HolzelandSalkeld),27,87,167Fischer,Scott,156fixedropes,30,58,73,104,141,

143-44,147-48,153,159,160,164-65free-climbing,71frostbite,81-82,85,86,88,89,94,96,104,105,118,120,146,158,161,162,172GammaLiaison,61Garcia,João,162Gardner,Mount,146GarhwalHimalaya,83GasherbrumII,138gentleman’sbelay,72,153,168Giller,Sue,27“glacierlassitude,”118glaciers,39,77goggles,125ofMallory,36,62-63

Good-byetoAllThat(Graves),46goraks,22,32,35,37Gorbach,Volodymyr,93-96,103-6Grant,Duncan,44,45Graves,Robert,46,50,52,75,179GreatBritain,62,63-64,82,162,168GreatSmokyMountains,13“Greeter,the,”32,173Gurkhas,80,116GurneyPeak,97GyachungKang,140Habeler,Peter,126Hahn,Dave,22,30,31,34,37,55,57,59,60,61,65,67,68,70,71,96,105,106,140,141,143,144,146,147,148,152,153,154,155-60

Hall,Becky,103Harris,PercyWyn,26HarvardUniversity,12Hasegawa,Ryoten,26-27Hazard,JohndeVere,109,116,117,119-20,123,131,132,133Hemmleb,Jochen,29,31,33,56,60-61,63,67,143,151-52,163HenleyRegatta,41HerschelHouse,91Hillary,SirEdmund,12,28,60,64,66,77,102,175Himalaya,21,74,77,80,98,105hobnailedboots,19,72,139,164Holt,91Holzel,Tom,27-28,29,87,167,170homosexuality,43Howard-Bury,Charles,74,78,79“HowtoGetUptheSecondStep—ATopoGuide”(Hemmleb),151-52Hunter,Mount,98hydration,17,166-67hypothermia,28iceaxebelay,87-88,119,165IMAX,63IMG(InternationalMountainGuides),57-58,142India,83,108,110surveyor-generalof,75

IndianCreek,Utah,153Internet,55-56,58-60,63,65,66,74intestinaldisorders,155-56IntoThinAir(Krakauer),154Ireland,51“ironmongery,”165Irvine,Andrew“Sandy,”15,71,111-16,119,122,135,177asathlete,112,113backgroundof,112-13characterof,111-12,113climbinginexperienceof,24,109Everestexpeditionof,seeEverest,Mallory’s1924expeditiontoMallory’sbodyassumedatfirsttobe,19,22,28,34,55

mechanicalaptitudeof,24-25,112-13memorialserviceheldforMalloryand,177-78oxygenequipmentadjustedby,24-25,26,113,114-15,170

Irving,R.L.G.,41,42,50IsleofSkye,45Johnson,Boris,64Kailas,30KampaDzong,109Kangchenjunga,40,130KangshungGlacier,106KarakoramRange,29,31,98,138,155Kathmandu,30,70,142Kellas,A.M.,74,75Keynes,Geoffrey,44,92KhartaGlacier,78,79,81KhumbuGlacier,77

Khumbuvalley,140KichatnaSpires,13-14,97,100Kiev,106Kilimanjaro,Mount,57KodakVestpocketcamera,ofMallory,28,35,36,38,63,129,135,163K2,40Kudelski,Tadusz,161-62Lambert,Raymond,72LatokII,31,98LhakpaLa,80,81LhoLa,77Lhotse,28Lliwedd,41-42,53Lobsang(Sherpa),122Logan,Mount,12Longstaff,Tom,83,90,108,115,178Lowe,Alex,102Lunn,Arnold,113McKinley,Mount(Denali),13,14,57,94,99,100,142MagdaleneCollege,CambridgeUniversity,40,41,44,52,69,163Makalu,79

Mallory,Avie(sister),40,41Mallory,Beridge(daughter),52,91Mallory,George,II(grandson),64Mallory,GeorgeLeigh:absentmindednessof,41-42,83,129,131,166“Becauseitisthere”remarkof,50,91birthof,40Cambridge-Bloomsburyfriendshipsof,42-45,92characterof,15,40-41,43,50criticalwritingsof,49educationof,40-41,42-44Everestexpeditionsof,seeEverest,Mallory’s1921expeditionto;Everest,Mallory’s1922expeditionto;Everest,Mallory’s1924expeditiontoonGod,51guiltover1922avalanchefatalitiesfeltby,90-91,111heightandweightof,42legacyof,174-75mechanicalineptitudeof,42,78,129memorialserviceheldforIrvineand,177-78mountaineeringaccidentsof,47-49mountaineeringskillandstyleof,11,24,40,41,45-47,53,76,116,118,164,176mountaineeringwritingsof,49-50,65,76,82,84-85,86-87,88,90,92physicalbeautyof,11,42,44-45politicalstanceof,51aspubliclecturer,82,92-93,108sexualityof,45asteacher,50-51,75,91,92

Mallory,John(son),22,37,52,68,69,91Mallory,Mary(sister),67,108,111Mallory,RuthTurner(wife),67,92,166,177,179firstmeetingandmarriageofMalloryand,52Mallory’slettersto,24,45,49,51,52,68,74,76,79,81,88,91,108,109,110,112,114,116,118,119,121,122,163Mallory’srelationshipwith,52,68,109

Mallory,Trafford(brother),67Matterhorn,177Maxim,Hiram,113Mellersh,Stella,68

“MenandMountains:TheGambler”(Mallory),92MertonCollege,OxfordUniversity,112Messner,Reinhold,33,72,126,168Metafuel,124Microsoft,59MiddleTriplePeak,100-101Millikan,ClareMallory(daughter),12-15,52,65,68,90-91,177,179Millikan,George,14Millikan,Glenn,13Millikan,Rick,12-15,68-69Millikan,Robert,13Miner’sTrack,53monsoons,24,27,75,76,77,80,81,84,89,127,169

MorningPost(Calcutta),75,177Morshead,H.T.,80,85,86,87,88,89“MountaineerasArtist,The”(Mallory),49-50mountaineering:Britishconservativismin,83EasternEuropeand,105empathyand,103mediaportrayalof,61-62oldvs.moderngearandclothingfor,21,47-48,72,84-85,123,164-65specializationin,98variedresponsestoemergenciesin,95

mountainpeaks,world’shighest,40MountainZone,29,55,57,58,60,70,95,106,162MountEverest:TheReconnaissance,1921,65,76,82Mummery,Alfred,80MungoPark,59Munterhitch,104MÜrren,113NangaParbat,40,80NationalGeographicAdventure,15NATO,66naturalcatchmentbasins,32-33NatureConservancy,103Nepal,17,30,70,77,84,102

Nesthorn,47-48,119,165,168,172NewHampshire,12Newsweek,62,162NewYorkState,12nievespenitentes,77NobelPrize,13Noel,John,23,109,110,111,130,134,176NorthFaceequipmentcompany,96,98,102NorthPole,28Norton,E.F.“Teddy”:on1922Everestexpedition,83,87,88,89on1924Everestexpedition,24,36,39,50,65,71-72,108-9,112,116,118,119,120,121,123-28,134,150,168,176,178

Norton,Jake,20,22,30,34,35,37,56,58,60,61,65,71,95-96,104,135,140,141-42,143,145,147,148,158,159,160,163

NOVA,29,54,55,56,57,58,59,63,64,135,146nudebathing,44Observer(London),64Odell,Noel,23,25-26,36,39-40,50,65-66,72,109,112,113,117,118,119-20,122,123,127,128,129,130-33,138,144,150,166,167,170,171,176,178

“oldEnglishdead”body,26-27,28,29,38,72,151,173OnHighHills(Young),47“Orientalinertia,”117OxfordUniversity,11,24,43,112,114oxygen,bottled,27,36,94,110,121,122,127,128,129,130,131,132,135,138,146,174-75Anker’savoidanceof,31,143,148,156,158benefitsofuseof,24,88,89,93discardedcanistersfor,31,56,143,156flowratesof,144-45,157,159Irvine’smechanicaladjustmentsmadeonapparatusfor,24-25,26,113,114-15,170Mallory’sinitialskepticismtoward,24,84Messner’sascentswithout,33,126modernimprovementsin,166

oxygendeprivation,20,31,32,85,86,125,156,157,158,170-71Pakistan,98Paterno,Joe,99Pawlowski,Ryszard,162PBS,55,56

Pemba(Sherpa),161PennStateUniversity,99pitons,165Plato,43Poland,105Politz,Andy,22,30,31,33,34,37,56,60,62,95-96,104,135-40Pollard,Thom,54-55,105,135,136,138-40,172porters,23,80,81,84,110,116,124,127,129,132,176

1924expedition’sproblemsinvolving,116-18,119-21,122“Tigers,”121,123Westernclimbers’attitudestoward,70-71,77,78-79seealsoSherpas

Potterfield,Peter,57PresidentialRange,12Primusstoves,124PrometheusUnbound(Shelley),112Psalm103,37,140pujaceremonies,70-71,100,111,117,156Pumori,140Pye,David,43,48,51,52,53,82QueenVictoria(Strachey),75-76Raeburn,Harold,74,75,79Rainier,Mount,29,57,100,142RevelationMountains,14Rheinberger,Michael,146-47,155,157Richards,Tap,22,30,34,35,37,58,60,61,65,71,95-96,104,135,140,141-42,143,145,147,148,158,159,160,163

RMI(RainierMountaineering,Incorporated),57,58Roberts,David:onEthiopianexpedition,59andplanofbook,16

Robertson,David,41,49,53,62-69,177Robson,Mount,97RockyMountains,97RongbukGlacier,20,28,76-77,78,116,152,169RongbukMonastery,69,70,71,73,111,117,156rope,139oldvs.modern,21,47-48,72,165seealsofixedropes

Rosa,Monte,41Rowell,Galen,98-99rowing,112,114RoyalGeographicalSociety,78,178Russia,105St.Paul’sCathedral,70,178Salkeld,Audrey,27,29,42,64,87SaltLakeCity,Utah,98,99Sanders,Cottie(AnnBridge),42,45-46,48SantaRosa,Calif.,65Scott,RobertFalcon,67,177Scott,Shellene,67Seattle,Wash.,29,55,60,61separation,asclimbingerror,94-95SevenSummits,99Shaw,GeorgeBernard,75Shaw,Seth,100-101ShawangunkMountains,12ShekarDzong,108Shelley,PercyBysshe,112Sherpas,58,71,72,84,90,95,103,105,118,119,124,128,129,130,132,140,141,142,143,147-48,161,162,167deathsof,in1922avalanche,90,110-11,178seealsoporters

ShishaPangma,57Shrewsburypublicschool,112Simonenko,Valentyn,93Simonson,Eric“Simo,”31,54,55,56,57,60,64-65,66,68,69,74,78,86,95,105,135,138,142,143,153,154,155,158,159,163backgroundof,57-58asguide,29,57leadershipstyleof,581999Everestexpeditionteamassembledby,29previousEverestexpeditionsof,29,30,58,96,138,143,146

sirdars,79,140skiing,113Slovenia,105Smythe,Frank,72snowblindness,36,118,125,127-28,147

Snowdon,Mount,52Sobek,59Somervell,Howard,178on1922Everestexpedition,83,87,89,90on1924Everestexpedition,24,108-9,112,116,118,120,121,123-27,133-34,164,176

SouthPole,67,177SpiritofMan,The(Bridges),112Spitsbergen,24,109

“Stella”letter,67-69Stern,63,162StilettoNeedle,12Stoppers,150StoryofEverest,The(Noel),176Strachey,James,44,45Strachey,Lytton,44-45,75-76Strang-WatkinsChallengeCup,113Strutt,Edward,83Stump,Terrance“Mugs,”99-100,103Switzerland,84,113Symposium(Plato),43Tacoma,Wash.,163Taos,N.Mex.,142Tasker,Joe,39Telluride,Colo.,97Tennessee,13TenzingNorgay,12,72,77,175Terzeul,Vladislav“Slava,”54,93-95“ThirdPole,”74,174Tibet,17,26,30,58,62,66,77,103,108,111,114,150,174Tibetanlanguage,78,79,111,120,127Tigers,121,123Time,62Times(London),64,75TorreEgger,98trekkers,58,67Trisul,83Tyndale,Harry,46

Ukraine,93,105,106UnitedStates,Mallory’slecturetourin,92,108Unnacookers,124,129,167Unsworth,Walt,45,113Utah,Universityof,97-98Venice,52Victoria,QueenofEngland,177Vinson,Mount,57,146Waddington,Mount,12Wales,41-42,44,45,50,52,53,153,168,180WangHongbao,26-27,28,29,32,38,72,151,173WarOffice,British,112-13WashingtonStateHistoricalMuseum,68,163WesternCwm,77Wheeler,Edward,81-82Whetu,Mark,147,155,157WhiteIsland,29Whittaker,Lou,57WickershamWall,MountMcKinley,13Wilcoxparty,14Winchesterpublicschool,40-41wind,climbers’strengthdrainedby,94WorldWarI,45,49,51-52“yellowbrickroad,”156YosemiteNationalPark,98,99,153Young,GeoffreyWinthrop,46-47,48,49,50,52,53,82,90,91,119,165,168,172,178-79,180YoungClimber’sGrant,97Younghusband,SirFrancis,176,178Zangrilli,Fabrizio,60