THE ROAD TO BRAZIL

Kiwi Rob Mumford and Aussie Paul Pallet drive a 1971 Ford Torino from

Buenos Aires, Argentina to the 2014 Football World Cup in Brazil.

From Buenos Aires to southern Brazil and World Cup 2014 host cities Porto Alegre

and Curitiba. On the road for two weeks New Zealander Rob Mumford and

Australian Paul Pallett journey to the spiritual home of football to soak up the

atmosphere and action of the beautiful game in the beautiful country and try to get

to the heart and soul of Brazilian football.

Rob Mumford

Originally from Wellington, New Zealand, Rob has been living in Argentina for the

last 15 years after first visiting as a backpacker and falling in love with Argentina’s

stunning landscapes and passionate people. While gutted that New Zealand’s All

Whites (Unbeaten in South Africa 2010!) will not be in Brazil Rob wants to make

sure that there is a Kiwi presence at the 2014 Cup.

Paul Pallett

A resident of Australia’s Gold Coast Paul has spent a large part of his life in Europe

and South America. After being at France 1998, Germany 2006, and South Africa

2010 he will be experiencing World Cup fever for the 4th time in Brazil. As a travel

writer Paul has covered Argentina and has also commentated on Argentina’s

Premier League, he is now ready for the big challenge that is Brazil from the Co

Pilot’s seat of the Gran Torino.

Ford Torino 1971

Brought to Argentina in 1971 straight from the Atlanta assembly line this V8 is a

survivor from the glory days of automotive industry. Inspired by Kowalski’s Dodge

Challenger in the movie Vanishing Point but hoping for a better end.

ONE - Buenos Aires to Porto Alegre

Its 1,300km from Buenos Aires to the southern Brazilian city of Porto Alegre and

this is our destination as we leave this city of 13 million people heading for the

2014 FIFA World Cup. It’s a glorious winter morning and the roads are empty as

we head north for an hour before crossing the mighty Parana River via the Zarate

bridge. In the distance far below we see cargo ships cruising the Parana’s dark

brown waters.

Our route takes us through the

Argentine provinces of Entre Rios

and Corrientes and all the while the

terrain is almost totally flat and

landscapes change only slowly as

the kilometers tick over. We stay

overnight at Concordia on the edge

of the Uruguay River and catch the

England Vs Italy game in a bar with

a bunch of locals who are naturally

supporting the Italians.

Back on the road it’s symbolic that Argentine route 14 is the one leading us to the

2014 World Cup. The route is again mostly flat and straight but there are a few

curves as we pass the towns of New Scotland and New Germany. Occasionally

there are forests off to the side and as we get further north the earth gets redder

and the foliage greener. At a service station we meet a group of Chilean fans who

enjoy the photo opportunity with Aussie Paul after Chile’s 3-1 win over the

Socceroos on Friday!

The border post at Paso de los Libres is pretty quiet and after stamps and

document checks we cross the well worn bridge into Brazil and the city of

Uruguiana. Bem vindo a Brasil! Again we show our papers and passports before

heading in the direction of Porto Alegre. Brazil being Brazil it is not long until we

see a football field, an uneven dirt pitch surrounded by rubbish and makeshift

houses, the same type of pitch that many Brazilian stars learned their skills on. The

next field we come across is a perfectly manicured private pitch out the front of an

impressive estancia, Brazil’s contrasts are sadly evident for all too see.

Brazilian route 218 goes through the heart of the state of Rio

Grande do Sul and is mainly farms and grain plantations and is

inhabited by Gaucho cowboys. It has a tropical feel to it with

palm trees and thick vegetation. With Argentina playing Bosnia

this evening we decide to watch the game in a diner at the rural

town of Sao Gabriel. Argentina play solidly and with the help of

an own goal and the brilliance of a Lionel Messi special run out

comfortable 2-1 winners. It is surprising to hear shouts from the

bar cheering on Messi but we later find out that these “locals”

were in fact a group of traveling Argentines.

The following morning we are back on the road to Porto Alegre and make a lunch

stop at the sleepy town of Arroio dos Ratos. It’s early by Brazilian standards but as

we pull up outside the only restaurant on the dusty main street the sign on the

door is hurriedly flipped from “open” to “closed” as it appears that a couple of

strangers in a muscle car are not too welcome around these parts. We end up

having lunch and watching Germany beat Portugal at the petrol station café back

out on route BR218.

In the afternoon we complete the

drive to Porto Alegre and enter the

city via the magnificent bridges that

span the huge Lagoa dos Patos lagoon.

Once settled into our hotel we take a

walk through the central market and

soak up the feel of the city. There are

yellow and green balloons, flags,

streamers, and Brazil football shirts

everywhere. However despite this

magnificent show of color and national

pride it seems that not all Brazilians

are football fans as when the fulltime whistle blows on the exciting USA Vs Ghana

match there are only two patrons left at the downtown bar, a Kiwi and an Aussie!

TWO – Porto Alegre to Florianopolis

Today we are heading north towards Curitiba where we will attend the Ecuador Vs

Honduras game, but first we are taking a few days to explore the beautiful beaches

and coastline of the Santa Catarina province. It’s a misty and drizzly Porto Alegre

morning as we climb the entry ramp onto the motorway and look for the signs to

Florianopolis. The coastal highway is a magnificent one as it runs alongside the

Atlantic, over and between mist shrouded hills, and sweeps around the stunning

natural geography, the road is in excellent condition and the bridges and tunnels

make the route even more spectacular. The vegetation is tropical with plenty of

palm trees and thick grasses, and the settlements we pass have pretty wooden

houses painted with pastel shades of lime, peach, lemon, lilac, and mint. The

Brazilians are a colorful people and they express this with their houses and we also

see a purple library, blue town hall, and multicolor churches.

After 150km we pull off at a town called

Torres, a delightful spot with a sandy

beach, steep rocky cliff at one end, and

smart beachfront apartments and

houses. Down at the beach we walk

along a path at the base of the cliff and

soak up the sound and smell of the sea.

There are herons and oystercatchers as

well as surfers and fishermen. When I

walk off the path to water the plants I

am accompanied by orange butterflies

and a song by a pretty yellow and black bird. We enjoy the beach and the blue sky

that has appeared before heading north again.

Our aim is to get to Florianopolis on the Island of Santa Catarina by 4pm so that we

can watch the Brazil Vs Mexico match but our game plan hits a snag when we come

to a halt behind a long line of stationary vehicles and people standing beside their

cars. We get out and see that the police are attending an accident that has blocked

the road. After 20 minutes a helicopter takes off with the injured and a damaged

SUV is towed away. We continue on but kickoff is only an hour away, luckily 2km

later the toll both operator waves us through, “no charge today” he says. I imagine

they don’t want to delay the locals who like us want to get to their destination and

watch Brazil in action.

As we get close to Florianopolis traffic gets thick and

we and thousands of Brazilians have to turn on our

radios as the game gets underway. It’s cool to hear the

Portuguese commentary as we cross the spectacular

bridge from the mainland to Santa Catarina Island, our

ears and eyes filled with excitement. Florianopolis is

way bigger that we anticipated and we have no idea

where we are going so we follow the signs leading to

the southern part of the Island. Traffic is still heavy

and it’s close to half time when we pull in at a small

bar and sit outside with a bunch of locals. It’s not a

great performance by Brazil today and the frustration

is clearly expressed in our bar as the match ends in a

scoreless draw with the Mexican goalie Guillermo Ochoa man of the match. Brazil

have a huge weight of expectation on them and they will need to improve to have a

chance of meeting a nation’s dreams.

THREE – Florianopolis to Curitiba

Today we leave Florianopolis and head north to Curitiba where tomorrow we will

be attending the Ecuador Vs Honduras match. This clash of Latin cultures promises

to be an exciting match and colorful football celebration and while it’s tough to

leave the natural beauty of Santa Catalina Island we are looking forward to a taste

of World Cup action.

The costal highway offers amazing

views on this perfect day with the ocean

like glass and Islands and hills

reminding me of the Coromandel

Peninsular. After about an hour we pull

off and drive into the quaint town of

Porto Belo, this fishing port in summer

is a major tourist center for Argentines

and Brazilians. We walk around the

port area and check out the harbor that

is dotted with brightly painted boats. Further along the peninsular we come to the

breathtaking Bombinhas beach. This beautiful sheltered beach has transparent

green waters, golden sands, impressive sandstone rock formations, and a pretty

beachfront boardwalk.

After this relaxing detour we pull back onto the costal freeway and V8 growls into

life as the open road stretches out ahead. As we accelerate a sign with the name

KOWALSKY in big letters looms into view as a fitting reminder of my cinematic

inspirations on this journey - Kowalski

was a car delivery driver who drove a

white Dodge Challenger in the 1971

epic Vanishing Point and Clint

Eastwood played the Torino driving

Walt Kowalski in critically acclaimed

2008 Gran Torino. Its great to have

this inspiration present even if the

Brazilian Kowalsky, a fishing company,

is not quite as exciting as the

Hollywood versions!

As we speed along we pass the resort towns of Itapema, Camboriu, and Joinville,

and our eyes open wide when we see a replica Statue of Liberty complete with

viewing platform, a giant plaster white swan, and then a life size lighthouse with

two full scale concrete whales. We stop at a truck stop to fill up with petrol and to

watch the England Vs Uruguay game. The Brazilian truckies are rugged and gruff

and all supporting Uruguay. They shout abuse at the English and make crude jokes

but when a stray dog walks in one of them relaxes and lets the dog lie at his feet

while he strokes it. Tough guys these Brazilians but sensitive too.

After the game its dark and we still have 120km still to go to Curitiba. Thankfully

the road is well marked and driving conditions good, at least they are until we start

climbing some very steep hills. Curitiba is 932 meters above sea level so we

expected a climb but not quite so suddenly. As we get higher a mist descends and

visibility is severely reduced. All we can do is follow the lights in front of us to get

us up and over. Coming down the other side it’s still hard to see so we stay behind

a truck travelling at the same speed and let him guide our way. When he pulls off to

continue to Sao Paulo we toot and wave to thank him for his help. Ten minutes

later we are in Curitiba and on our way to the Hara Palace Hotel.

FOUR - Game Day, Ecuador Vs Honduras in Curitiba

Its game day today and the breakfast bar at the Hara Palace is sprinkled with

Ecuador and Honduras football jerseys as well as fans from various other

countries. You can feel the tension and excitement in the air. We talk to

Colombians, Argentines, and Chileans with Spanish dominating today instead of

Brazilian Portuguese as we enjoy a sumptuous Brazilian breakfast buffet of fresh

fruits, cold meats, and coconut cake, washed down with a cashew milkshake.

Curitiba is home to the Oscar Niemeyer Museum and we are blown away by this

majestic structure in the shape of a giant eye. Niemeyer is the Brazilian architect

who designed the capital Brasilia in the 1950’s and whose concrete structures with

sensuous curves and crisp clean lines were inspired by Brazil’s stunning

geography and beautiful women.

Inside we wander around the

impressive and extensive exhibits by

Brazilian sculptors, painters, and

photographers.

We drive back to the hotel to get ready

for the game only to find that our

street has been blocked off by police

as part of the secure perimeter around

the stadium. We try to explain that we

need to get back to the hotel to park the car but the Police are unrelenting in

prohibiting our access. Luckily for us a sympathetic FIFA official is on hand and

after talking to the police commander a policeman hops into the Torino and

escorts us to the hotel!

Kickoff is at 7pm and the streets are

busy with fans as we walk the ten

blocks to the Arena do Baixada stadium.

I see a group of Mexican fans with

traditional hats and congratulate them

on Mexico’s playoff win over the All

Whites. There is plenty of noise and

color and the atmosphere is amazing.

The yellow of Ecuador dominates but

there are also plenty of people wearing

the blue and white colors of Honduras.

We see a giant skull dancing as well as a couple who have brought their pet cat to

the game! Inside we are seated with several hundred Ecuador fans and have a

great view just a few rows back from the corner flag.

When the game gets underway so does the noise from the Ecuadorian fans who

sing “Vamos Ecuador, porque este noche tenemos que ganar” (C’mon Ecuador,

because tonight we have to win!) and chant “Si se puede!” “Si se puede!” (You can

do it! You can do it!) Honduras dominate the early exchanges and when the

Ecuador defense miscues a clearance they seize the chance and score. One section

of the stadium erupts but in our zone it’s a stunned silence. I look around and see

worried faces in the sea of yellow Ecuador shirts. Ecuador’s reply is quick in

coming however as Enner Valencia

gets on the end of a cross and slides

the ball past the keeper for the

equalizer. Goooooaaaalllll!!! The

crowd explodes and jump and we are

sprayed with beer. Giant smiles reign

on painted and happy Ecuadorian

faces.

At halftime its 1-1. We talk to the fans

around us during the break and meet a

father and son who have ridden motorbikes 7,000km from Quito via the Amazon

as well as a young fan who has been saving for the last 4 years in order to get here.

This is what the World Cup means to South America and it’s very special to share

this football passion and national pride.

The second half is tense with both teams needing the win to have a chance of

progressing to the next round. Honduras has two goals disallowed for offside and

Aussie Paul gets the thumbs up from Ecuadorian fans after the Australian

lineman’s decisions. On 20 minutes Valencia strikes again to put Ecuador 2-1 up

and around us another goal celebration explodes. The noise is deafening as one

country’s dreams are alive and

another’s on the brink. The rest of the

game is played out with tension and

nervousness before the final whistle

brings the loudest celebration of the

night. We high five and hug our

Ecuadorian neighbors and soak up as

much of this wonderful occasion as

possible. We wander slowly out of the

stadium with Ecuadorian chants still

echoing in our heads. “Si se pudo!” “Si

se pudo!” “We did it!” “We did it!”

FIVE - South Korea V Algeria in Porto Alegre

After the Ecuador Vs Honduras game in Curitiba we have one day to drive 700km

back to Porto Alegre where we will be at the Arena Beira Rio stadium for the South

Korea V Algeria match.

We take the inland route as its 100km

less than the one that goes via

Florianopolis, we also want a change of

scenery. The BR116 traverses three

states and also cuts through the heart of

the Santa Catarina timber industry. Pine

trees and the umbrella shaped

Araucaria are everywhere and there are

also plenty of logging trucks on the

road. It’s a very hilly and windy road so

it’s slow going at times but still great

driving. Highlights include a rock cutting with Easter Island like faces looking

down at us, a smile from pretty girl with a star tattoo at a toll booth, a beautiful

wooden German style shopping mall, and a lunch stop with a match winning goal

by Lionel Messi in Argentina’s scrappy 1-0 win over Iran. It’s late and dark when

we finally make it to Porto Alegre.

The next morning we are woken by the sound of drumming and singing. Outside

the hotel about 50 Algerian supporters are singing loudly, dancing, and playing the

drums. They are excited and confident about today’s game and are passing around

a replica World Cup trophy while being filmed by a local TV station.

Its 22 degrees today, the day after

the shortest day of the year, if this

is as bad as winter gets here then

it’s not too bad at all. On the walk

to the Arena Beira Rio stadium

there are fans from many different

countries draped in flags and

wearing their nations’ colors but

it’s the Brazilians who outnumber

the rest. Many of them are wearing

the Brazilian team shirt but many

more are wearing the red shirt of

local club Internacionale who will take up residence at the stadium after the World

Cup. Inter, along with arch rival Gremio are the two biggest teams in Porto Alegre

and many fans consider club more important than country. One Inter supporter

sees my All Whites flag and calls out to welcome me to the stadium. Inside we

climb up to the third tier where the view is amazing. The Arena Beira is a majestic

stadium with sail like roof structures, modern covered seating, and great natural

lighting.

The game kicks off with the Koreans using their speed and quick passing to move

up field but the Algerian defense is solid and up to the task. Algeria too has its

passages on attack and their forwards are strong on their feet and show good ball

control. The crowd is enjoying the game and especially the big group of Algerian

supporters on the far side from us who are in constant motion. Suddenly Algeria

strikes and with three goals in quick succession effectively delivers a knockout

punch to Korea. A couple of rows back from us an Algerian woman with headscarf

is celebrating wildly and has tears of joy in her eyes.

Korea play much better in the second half and when they score to make it 1-3 I

turn round and see the Algerian woman clapping and smiling. It’s wonderful to see

the World Cup spirit being embraced so

positively and so generously. There is

plenty of action in the second 45

minutes as Algeria score again to take a

4-1 lead before Korea come back to

make it 4-2. The setting sun turns the

sky shades of purple and orange and on

the far side of the stadium the Algerians

have unfurled a huge flag and are

passing it across the heads of their

supporters. When the final whistle goes

their celebrations reach a crescendo.

After the game we hang around at the stadium to enjoy the views and talk to fellow

supporters. We meet a Brazilian with an All Blacks jacket who tells us that rugby is

a popular sport in his town in the heartland of Rio Grande do Sul as well as a

couple of Scots wearing kilts and some disappointed Koreans. Outside the stadium

the Algerian drums have started up again, this time with something very real to

celebrate. We can’t understand a word they sing or shout but their meaning is

crystal clear as the language of football joy needs no translation.

SIX - Porto Alegre and Tramandai

After Saturday’s long drive and Sunday’s long day at the stadium we are happy to

not have to get up early and luckily there are no drums or singing to disturb our

sleep. Today marks the start of the final round of pool matches with Brazil playing

Cameroon and only needing a draw to qualify for the next stage. We walk around

downtown Porto Alegre and see buildings, offices, bars and shops all decked out in

Brazilian colors as well as hundreds of fans sporting the five time World

Champion’s replica shirts. We make it to the bank to change money just in time

before it closes early so fans can watch the game.

As the masses stream out of department stores and tower blocks we follow the

crowd and half an hour later arrive at the FIFA fan fest where despite the

afternoon rain the place is packed with

Brazilians as well as a few thousand

Argentine supporters. It’s a great

atmosphere with young and old, short

and tall, and Inter and Gremio fans all

present. The match is a decent one

with Brazil scoring early, Cameroon

getting one back, and then Brazil

taking over and winning comfortably

4-1 without really showing much of

the samba style that locals and

neutrals were hoping for. With this result Brazil qualifies top of group A and next

up meet the enterprising and well coached Chile.

With Porto Alegre filling up with some 40,000 Argentine fans and little likelihood

of us getting tickets to the Argentina Vs Nigeria game we decide to head back to the

coast. Beach town Tramandai is 120km from Porto Alegre and an easy drive across

the northern shore of the Lagoa das Patos lagoon. We arrive in Tramandai early

afternoon and cruise through town to the beachfront where we find ourselves at

the mouth of a slow moving river lined with seafood restaurants and brightly

painted pancake kiosks. Fishermen and women are casting sieve like circular nets

into the water but as far as we can see are not catching much. We sit down for

lunch and to watch the Uruguay Vs Italy game, on the menu is freshly caught

Tainha with traditional trimmings of rice and salad.

The fish is tasty and the game a good one, Uruguay win it to advance to the last 16,

while the views of the river and ocean beyond are relaxing on this quiet weekday

afternoon. After watching Luis Suarez’s “shark attack” on Italian Giorgio Chiellini

we head outside and are startled by shouts from the far side of the river and the

sight of fishermen running into the water. We can hardly believe our eyes when we

see a grey dorsal fin stealthily moving up river and fishermen standing knee deep

with nets raised and ready.

As the scene plays out we see that the

fin belongs to one of a small pod of

dolphins and that the fishermen are

waiting hopefully for schools of fish to

be chased into the shallows by the

feeding dolphins. It’s beautiful to see

this relationship between man and

nature and a calming way to wile away

the afternoon before tomorrow

starting our 1,500km journey home to

Buenos Aires. As the sun starts to go

down on the day and on our trip we see the dolphin assisted catch of the day

weighed and sold, sample coconut and condensed milk delicacies, and buy caramel

sweets in boxes decorated with Gremio and Inter colors.

SEVEN – Handing Over the Cup

It’s drizzling and grey in Tramandai this morning and breakfast is equally dull as

we prepare with some sadness to start out on the long road home. We head down

to the beach front to say our goodbyes to the Atlantic before an easy one hour

drive into Porto Alegre where we will watch the Argentina Vs Nigeria game. With

tickets for the match at the Arena Beira Rio a mission impossible we settle in at a

downtown café with big screen TV and order a Torrano toasted sandwich and

fresh pineapple juice. The bar is full of Brazilians enjoying lunch and most show

only a passing interest in the game while just a couple of kilometers away at the

stadium some 40,000 Argentines are screaming their support and another 20,000

are doing the same at the packed FIFA fanfest. Argentina don’t need to win to make

it to the last 16 but Messi is in top form and scores with a superb free kick as well

as from open field to guide Argentina to a 3-2 victory in an entertaining game.

As soon as the game ends we dash back to the Torino with the aim being to hit the

road before the mass exodus of Argentines. We do not get far before the first cars

with Argentine plates start whizzing past us! The route fills up pretty quickly but

unlike the Argentines we are in no hurry. We spend our last night in Brazil in Sao

Gabriel and at the same San Isidro hotel where we stayed our first night but this

time the hotel is completely packed with returning Argentines. Our last dinner is a

traditional Brazilian one of steak, fried eggs, rice, beans, and salad washed down

with cold Brahma beer. After our meal a couple of local teenagers on bikes escort

us and the Torino around the streets of Sao Gabriel, another example of the

wonderful hospitality we have received from the super friendly Brazilians.

All along this trip we have had with us on the front bench seat of the Torino a

replica World Cup trophy that we have waved out the window at fans we have

encountered and also used to cheer on the Brazilians on match day. After a

magnificent two weeks on the road in Brazil it does not feel right to be taking the

cup, even though only a replica, out of Brazil. We decide that our World Cup trophy

should remain in the spiritual home of the beautiful game and in the central plaza

of border town Quarai we find a boy of about 12 years old to whom we hand over

our cup. His first reaction is naturally one of surprise, as you would expect when a

couple of foreigners leap out of a car to present a World Cup trophy, but he soon

warms to our ceremony and we exchange handshakes and he gives us the thumbs

up to go with his happy and still shocked smile.

The border crossing is surprisingly quiet and it isn’t just our melancholy making

the crossing low key as we don’t see any type of customs control either leaving

Brazil or on entering Uruguay. After

consulting with police and with a

gloomy Uruguayan who tells us that

Luis Suarez has been banned from the

rest of the tournament we have to

return to Brazil and get our papers

stamped at a hidden immigrations post.

It’s sad when we finally leave the World

Cup 2014 host nation on the final day of

pool play but, Hey!.................... the Rio

Olympics are only two years away!

MUITO OBRIGADO BRAZIL!

Muito obrigado a:

Bruno on Santa Catalina who spotted a leaky tire valve and helped us change it.

Fabio at Shell station on Santa Catarina who pointed us in the direction of a

borracheria and shared a friendly chat on our return.

Chica & Alesandre at Pousada Vila Tamarindo at Campeche beach for tasty

breakfasts and super friendly service.

Humberto at the Hara Palace hotel in Curitiba for his warm welcome and for

helping us in any way he could.

Girl with smile and star tattoo at toll booth on the return trip to PA.

Cool guy at gas station in Curitiba who shook my hand three times as he said Hi

and checked out the Torino.

Gas Station Girl at Quarai with beaming smile, braces on her teeth, & rock music.

Ronny and the motorbike riding father and son duo who we met at halftime at

the Ecuador Vs Honduras game.

Rugby loving fan from Bento Gonsalves who we met at PA game.

Businessman in Tramandai who very kindly offered us a plate of crumbed prawns

at the riverside restaurant.

Three guys at San Marcos Gas Station who we talked to on the longest day drive.

All the people who waved to us wondering who we were and where we were

going and sending us buena onda (good vibes).

Mechanic Enrique in Buenos Aires who did a magnificent job of reconditioning

the Torino’s motor as well as repairing brakes and suspension.

Janine at stuff.co.nz for publishing The Road to Brazil stories.

Maria from NYUBA for Portuguese translations and advice.

Dad for passing on his passion for cars and road trips – “There is an excitement

about hitting the road for places less visited or new”

Sandra and Nat for supporting this crazy dream of mine.

Paul for sharing the dream and for being a great companion and copilot.

The Torino for 5,000km of trouble free pure driving pleasure.