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The Role of the Ecolabel in textiles 2011. Nicholas Paxevanos June 7th 2011 Latvia. Common sense and responsibility. Topics. Current situation Why the ecolabel Support/Benefits GPP/Retailer trends Case Examples Criteria Application process. C urrent situation. - PowerPoint PPT Presentation
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The Role of the Ecolabel in textiles2011
Nicholas Paxevanos June 7th 2011Latvia
EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011
Topics
Current situation
Why the ecolabelSupport/BenefitsGPP/Retailer trendsCase Examples
CriteriaApplication process
Common sense and responsibility
EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011
Current situation
C L CB C L
AT 4 5 AU 1
BE 1 1 CN 1
CZ 4 4 EG 2
DE 5 5 HK 1
DK 19 37 ID 2
EE 1 1 IN 2
GR 2 2 KR 1
ES 1 1 MY 1
FR 1 2 NZ 1
LT 1 1 TR 3
UK 3 3 TH 4
IT 14 14
NO 2 2
PL 2 2
PT 4 4
SE 10 11
Total products = 1353
Textile licences: EU / International
EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011
Why the EcolabelSupport
The Ecolabel is moving ahead and it is an important instrument for…
Supporting the SCP and SIP Action plans“Promoting sustainable products and reducing Environmental damage”
Work on promoting the Ecolabel is carried out through
Marketing initiatives, fairs, Brochures GPP, etc. on both
National level Competent Bodies and stakeholders
EU level The EU commisssion - EUEB is the administrator Internationally Unep – 5 year project
EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011
Why the Ecolabel Benefits Improve your company image
Differentiate your products Competitive Advantage Retain Customers and employees
satisfaction/loyalty Access to marketing events/on-line catalogue
A tool for GPPStay ahead of the competition – meet public sector
environmental purchasing demandsExpand your market – do business with public
authorities across EuropeReduce the burden of responding to public tenders –
use the Flower as an easy proof of environmental compliance
Put your products on a short list
A Tool in other areas: CSR, Env. Management, LCA
Gain new customers
Save money in the long run
EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011
Why the EcolabelGPP and the Ecolabel
Public Procurement accounts for 17% of EU wide (GDP) Gross Domestic Product equivalent to 2 trillion Euros
European Commission “Europe 2020 strategy” (growth strategy– sustainable -reducing Co2 emissions). GPP an important instrumentOn 27 January, the European Commission has launched a public consultation on the modernisation of EU public procurement policy. The results of the consultation will provide input to the Commission for the preparation of the future legislative proposal on the reform of the EU public procurement rules.
GPP made easier for Public Purchasers• No expert knowledge required• Fully compatible with the principles of the international market • Easy identification• GPP Training Toolkit• Handbook on Green Public Procurement• Leaflet on GPP and the EU Ecolabel• Ready made Criteria: Uniform throughout the member states
EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011
Why the EcolabelGPP Member states situation
GPP element Member State implementation (June 2010)
National Action Plan or equivalent document adopted
21: Austria, Belgium, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Poland, Portugal, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, UK
NAP in process of preparation 6: Bulgaria, Estonia, Greece, Ireland, Hungary, Romania
Targets/criteria adopted 21 MSMarket analysis conducted 9 MSCommunication and dissemination activities
9 MS
Training activities 18 MSMonitoring 11 MSGPP - Legally binding Portugal, Germany (for wood and LCC use), Czech
Republic (IT)Mandatory political obligation 18 MS
EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011
Examples of GPP in Denmark GPP is flourishing in Denmark
Public sector: There are 97 municipalities: 16% of GNP, 270 billion DKKHospitals, municipalities, ministries, post, police, army etc. Set requirements for textile products: Technical,Quality, environmental, etc. Offer a Tender
Award criteria %: Price = 50/60% Environment = 15% (changing constantly)
Elderly care has about 600,000 employees: All denim for these employees must adhere to Flower criteria
Almost 80% of all cleaning products and services procured in Denmark are certified by an ISO type I Ecolabel. CO2 reduction of 43%. Cost reduction of 3%There is a network for GPP consisting of municipalitiesThe Competent Body is active and offers consultancy services for GPP
EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011
Why the EcolabelRetailer Trends
The Retail sector represents about 11% of EUs GDP
Individual chains: Want to be seen as Environmentally concerned
The Retail Forum: Launched 2009 – support SCP/SIP Action plans - Includes the biggest chains
Benefits for Retailers/Customers• Easy to choose a product• Environmental• Health• Quality
Internationally: Wal-Mart, Levi Strauss, Esprit, H&M … are working together to find a common standard for sustainable clothing
Retail Forum Promote sustainable products
Reduce environmental footprint of retail sector Green supply chains Share best practice
not an exclusive club: Wider participation encouraged
Working with RetailersWorking with Retailers
EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011
Case Examples Textiles:Private Sector
Examples Private sector
KRENHOLMEstonian
Winning tenders
The process supply chain is controlled for
PENFABRIC
Actively promoting the Ecolabel
Keeping customers loyalty
Promoting through their work zone rangeLithuanian
Australian meeting demand
Supplying various EU customers
EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011
Case Examples Textiles:Private Sector
High QualityConsumer
Health SafeEnvironmental performance
Thong Thai Textile
EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011
Textile Criteria
• Development of Textile Criteria• Responsible CB• Development process (CB /stakeholders)
• Criteria overview• Fibres: Natural fibres, man made fibres …. (pesticides, toxic residues,
emissions)• Chemicals and processes: Spinning, weaving, dyeing/printing…
(Harmful substances: environment/health)• Fitness for use (Quality: dimensional change, colour fastness .. ) • Waste Water Treatment: Ph 6-9, COD > 20 g/kg• Energy use
The process supply chain is controlled for
EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011
The Application Process Textile Manual:
Part A: Are the general application forms Part B and Part C: : Consist of different forms/declarations that must be properly filled in with the right
documentation attached.
Important things to remember in the Application process1. Make a flow chart2. Determine what documentation should be sent to whom3. Check waste water4. Inform the suppliers5. Collect and check the documentation sent 6. Organise/file and complete the documentation 7. Fill out the application forms (Part A,B) and send them to the selected CB
Where to apply
EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011
Application process GuideIt is very important to start with making a flow chart of the
products life cycle.
• A flow chart tells us who does what. This is step 1.
EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011
Application process Guide Step 2 is to research the suppliers
Does the textile supplier have a flower licence? • YES: Ask the textile supplier to send their licence number and a letter stating
that qualities in question are covered by the licence. Fill in application forms (Part A of the Users manual) and send the application to the competent body.
• NO: Has the textile supplier previously provided flower documentation for another customer?
• If YES, then ask them to send the same documentation relevant to your quality. Check to see that the documentation is up to date, fill in the application forms and send them to the competent body.
• If NO, proceed to step 3.Are the suppliers in the flow chart European, Asian or other?• European: proceed to step 3.• Asian or other: Find out if they treat the waste water • If YES: send waste water treatment pages to them so they can read and fill in
(this is to make sure that they conform to the waste water criteria).Proceed to step 3.
EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011
Application process Guide Step 3. • Sort out what pages (users manual) apply to the fibre supplier, the spinner, the knitter and dyer. • Find out whether to contact them directly or whether an agent or any other supplier will do it. • Find out if there is any wet process other than the dyer and who it is. GET Waste water
documentation before any other documentation.• Send the relevant criteria and accompanying pages to whom they apply. This way they only get
some pages rather than the whole users manual.• Make a folder with an index. Place documentation received in the appropriate place in the folder
and check it in the index. • When all the documentation is received, send your product for the fitness to use tests, fill in the
application forms and send it to the competent body. If a supplier is not responding, find out the reason. It could be because: • they don’t understand what is required of them• they don’t want to pay for a test• They are just not interested in the flower for one reason or another It is easier to get a supplier to cooperate if the reason is known. • Remember to always check if the declaration sheets are filled in correctly (date, ticked
boxes, stamped and signed). Check that the tests, safety data sheets and documentation asked for are attached to the declaration.
EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011
The Application Costs
Where to apply
Fees Min Max Reductions
Application fee covers the costs of processing the application.
EUR 200 EUR 1 200 Max. EUR 600 for SMEs and applicants from developing countries
Max. EUR 350 for micro-enterprises
20% reduction for companies registered under EMAS or certified under ISO 14001
Annual fee for the use of the Ecolabel equals
EUR 1500 Max. EUR 750 for SMEs and applicants from developing countries
Max. EUR 350 for micro-enterprises
Thank you for the attention
Bucharest17.2.2011
Questions
Comments
Sense for your CompanyResponsibility to the Environment
EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011
Work Group Discussion topicsWhich of the areas below are relevant/important for your
company
o Export Private sector o B2Bo Retailers/Chain shopso Retailo Public sector
How can the Ecolabel benefit your company/organisation in the areas of importanceo Make a list List in groups:
Application process General discussion