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1 8/17/20091
The ‘S’ Word Fashion Textiles+ Sustainability:
Communicating People Profit Planet through Clothes
RMIT 09
Dr Joan Farrer RCA
5Could ethics means Status?
•selective consumption is the new class distinction
•Light green consumer products
•recognition of tribe through objectsand brand values
12 8/17/200912
Design
1978- Deryck Healy International London based design consultancy across disciplines body and space
1982- East Central Studios Ltd Owner of an International fashion textile design and
colour consultancy working with all links in the production chain from fibre to yarns to fabric to garments to retail. Global clients + production chains
1993- Consultant for industrial fashion textile + home retailers, Local Government + NGO’s in design and sustainability.
2004- Full time academic
13 8/17/200913
European Clients - Fibre Makers ICI Dupont Courtaulds British Mohair spinners IWS Irish linen, Monsanto
Fashion collections for experimental new fibres fabrics + finishes, Including Tactel, Tencel, TeflonApplied product research + development presentations for clients and Trade fairs –Premier Vision Indigo France Interstoff Germany
14 8/17/200914
Yarn + Knitted Fabric development
Seasonal trends for yarn design, fabric and colour including, Grignasco, Zegna Smedley, Next PLC, BritishCrepe, IWS, Charnos, Marks+Spencer, British Home Stores, Marubeni Tex, Renown, Macy’s NY, Expofil France, Pitti Filati Italy, Interstoff
15 8/17/200915
Fashion Textile Product + Concept Design Consultant UK Industrial Retailers
1993 to 2004
Head of Womens Knit Design
Mens & Womens colour and fabric prediction
Yarn and garment product development
( Far East EU and UK)
Product and brand development for major UK clothing retailers
Product and brand development for major UK food retailers clothing divisions.
16
Burton Mens wear + Top Shop Mens + Womens consultant designer
and forecaster,
Burton Group best selling sweater
£19,000,000 turn over in one style in one season
8/17/200916
• garment R+D producing prototype and 1st sample ranges with UK + world wide suppliers
17 8/17/200917
Tesco PLC non food division all Stores World Wide clothing concept ranges-Future Brand USA
Spring Summer Autumn Winter Christmas Resort wear and giftsHigh volume clothing ranges concept development mens womens childrens wear, high value home wares and accessory lines
18 8/17/200918
Interior Concepts Lifestyle Products- Future Brand USA
British Airways Club Lounge, colour, fabrics, accessories
Molton Brown Luxury Body Spa product range for 5star licencee Hotels and airport franchises- concept re-brand, colour, packaging, marketing tools
19
Marks + Spencer PLC Head of Womens Knitwear design
Yarn and fabric development Garment range development
Autograph for M+S with Future Brand USA Autograph concept leading designers creating ‘shops within a shop’ and product development
8/17/200919
20 8/17/200920
Teaching-95 to 2005 Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design School of Fashion
Central Saint Martins UALRAE writing staff research in the schoolMA Fashion Course director acting .5 and visiting lecturer in MA TextileFutures MA industrial design, BA fashion
+ fashion journalism + promotionStudents include: Galliano: McQueenMcCartney: Tristan Webber WW, Petar
Jensen MW, Richard Nicol MWShelly Fox Knit, Johnathan Saunders,Mathew Williamson Print Senior
Research Fellow Sustainable and Smart Fashion textiles
21 8/17/200921
2005 to 2007-Royal College of Art the worlds only post graduate university
Research Leader and Strategist in the School of Fashion and Textiles
School Research co-ordinator and Bid writer
School staff Research Mentor
RAE (PBRF) writing staff research in the school
Research Council Peer Reviewer
MA Fashion, MA Textiles
MPhil + PhD supervision and lecturing
22 8/17/200922
Royal College of Art PhD part time
1995-2000 an ecological assessment of the lifecycle of wool from cradle to grave and beyond highlighting the social, economic, and environmental cost of production and disposal of one wool fibre. The balance of people, profit, planet = sustainability
23 8/17/200923
The Sustainable Textiles Research Project
Detailed international supply chain risk assessment of pesticide and carcinogenic dye stuff use, forced labour and fair trade.
Informed CSR plan (corporate, social responsibility for the company triple bottom line which is people, profit and the environment) for investment. R&D collaborations to establish a ‘No Worry’ Brand
24
Marks and Spencer (£1billion turn over) risk assessment global supply production and disposal analysis for CSR= FIRST RETAILER TO ENTER THE Footsie4good DOW
INDEX to attract international pension fund investment
25
8/17/200925
EPE European Partners for the Environment Clothing + Textiles supply chain analysis- Resulted in EU Green supply chains for
institutional buyers (adopted in Auckland 07)
• 30 industrial, institutional, Government +commercial research partners
• Pan European multi stake holder project for sustainable textiles in the Work Wear Sector www.epe.be
• Papers given at workshops in Brussels, Paris & Design council. Organised a London symposium
• World summit for Sustainable development WSSD Johannesburg Oct 2002
26
8/17/200926
‘Environmental map’‘Environmental map’
Groundwater pollution
decreasing quality of fibres
Groundwater pollution
decreasing quality of fibres
Lack of water -problems of decreasing
quality of fibres
Lack of water -problems of decreasing
quality of fibres
In the EU Consumption and disposal of textiles 5
million tonnes P.A.
In the EU Consumption and disposal of textiles 5
million tonnes P.A.
Thousands of Km travelled by road and sea all textiles
Thousands of Km travelled by road and sea all textiles
Cost of energy has doubled in the EU in the last 5 years
Cost of energy has doubled in the EU in the last 5 years
1 000 000 containers per year
shipped into Europe
1 000 000 containers per year
shipped into Europe
Globally, 25% of all insecticides used for
cotton
Globally, 25% of all insecticides used for
cotton
Pesticides detergent and animal welfare issues in
wool production
Pesticides detergent and animal welfare issues in
wool production
High waste disposal costs, landfill, incineration or
re-export
High waste disposal costs, landfill, incineration or
re-export
Health concerns about textile dyes
and finishes
Health concerns about textile dyes
and finishes
27 8/17/200927
IIED 2003-04
International institute for Environment and Developmenthttp://www.iied.orgBest practice case studies
28 8/17/200928
World Summit Sustainable Development High level International dialogue to promote sustainable trade in textiles and clothing
Contributions from 25 delegates, including WTO textiles, Eco-Tex Ecology Institute, Euratex, European Commission DG10 and Institute for World Economics to a policy document for the World Summit for Sustainable Development WSSD Johannesburg October 2002.
29 8/17/200929
WWF- Sustainable Trade in Textiles and Clothing Lobbying Document
The end of the MFA in 2004 ensured that China became the worlds largest exporter and provider of textiles and clothing -de stabilizing global and local trade
30
Ethical Fashion Forum Fashioning an Ethical Industry
Co author and steering group member for a European Wide initiative to clean up the fashion industry-
8/17/200930
32
What has fashion to do with such important issues?
Fashion & Textiles Designers have been leading communication of these issues to the masses for centuries…
People / Profit / Planet
33
Status Quo? Profit / Mid 1800s England / Fashion the domain of Wealthy Classes / Dictated by Social Standards & Aristocratic desires / Economic Revolution
34
Challenging the Status Quo Activism through fashion / Nudity / Fun / Sexual Freedom / Liberation / Rebellion
35
Status Quo Planet / Brave New World? / 1984 / Emergent Ecological Philosophies / Acknowledgment of ‘Ozone’ layer damage / Intellectual stimuli to ‘create’ change
40
New Zealand, Research & Fashion Textiles Sustainability
8/17/200940
• New Challenges
• Different rules of engagement
• Research Culture?
• New experiences good and bad…
42 8/17/200942
Gro Harlem Brundland – 1992 Rio conference, Ex Présidente de la Commission des Nations Unies
What is Sustainable Development? It is Dry information
The idea of sustainability was defined in detail by the Brundland Commission for the Environment and Development in 1987 and is the basis of Agenda 21, which was drawn up by the United Nation's Conference for the Environment and Development in Rio de Janeiro in 1992. Sustainability is now a key aspect of advanced environmental policy and politics in general.Sustainability is a form of economic management in which the venture lives off the earnings from the capital base (in this example, nature) and not from the capital base itself. If ventures were to operate constantly beyond their means, their economic ruin would be predestined. Such ventures operate with costs that will have to be covered in the future, in other word at the cost of future generations.
The backbone of these activities should be the three apexes of the sustainability triangle: social justice, ecological harmlessness and economic efficiency.
ECONOMICServicesHousehold NeedsIndustrial GrowthAgricultural GrowthEfficient Use of Labour
ENVIRONMENTClean Air
BiodiversityNatural ResourcesCarrying Capacity
Ecosystem integrity
SOCIALCultural Preservation
Empowerment
Social Mobility
Equity
Participation
49
Employment
•how many/what quality/what skills?
•foreign workers ‘vs’ home•women at the bottom of the pile
•self employment and social entrepreneurialism
50
• Primark UK child labour
51
It was in Mauritius that the first Knitwear company was established less than three decades ago in 1971 which, was the catalyst for dramatic economic change. This newly industrialised country (NIC) replaced a sugarcane economy on the back of the knitwear industry
Fashion industry as catalyst for dramatic economic change
53 8/17/200953
Figure 1 (Left): A‐POC illustrates how garments are ‘cut’ from the one piece of cloth by the customer. Producing garments using this method reduces their manufacturing costs and minimises fabric wastage.
Excess fabric absorbed by ‘tucks’
Side Pocket Opening
Full scale prototypeToile cut in Merino stretch knit and joined on an industrial flatbed lockstitch machine
Finn- Fashion design and sustainable production
54
8/17/200954
R+D collaborative research… Research as an industry
1. EPSRC Designing for the 21Century ‘THE EMOTIONAL WARDROBE’Status: Co-Author/investigator with CSMFrom 01/05 to 12/05 Value £50K
2. EPSRC ‘SMART TEXTILES FOR INTELLIGENT CONSUMER PRODUCTS NETWORK’Status: Steering Group member hosted by CSM, From 04 to 07 Value £50Kwww.smartextiles.co.uk
3. DTI Sustainable Technologies Initiative ‘GARMENT PASSPORT’Status: Bid written, industrial partners in place project through the first and second rounds and into the last 15, problem with budget. Suggested re visit and submit to EPSRC again. (Prof Stephen Scrivener CSM has offered to help re write if CSM can be involved) 3 year projectValue £240K
4. DFID ‘THE BUSINESS CASE FOR SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT IN THE UK FASHION AND TEXTILE INDUSTRY’Status: Bid written and industrial/NGO/ research institute partners in place5. WRAP/DEFRA Textile recycling project TAKE BACK TEXTILESStatus: Bid being written with industrial, Leeds University and Charity partners in place.www.oakdenehollins.co.uk
62‘Do Hit’ Droog Design Do we need any more stuff?
•choice fatigue
•Consumers customisation
•personalisation
64R e f l
Fig 1. pocket for circuit board and button box. Oct 07
Fig 2. Internal cabling of Red 3 Jacket Oct 07
Fig 3. Fit & movement testing of Red 3 Jacket. Oct 07 Fig 4. Fit & movement testing of Red 3 Jacket. Oct 07
Reilly- City Centered Cycling
64
69
Loughborough UK
what is 'design for behavioural change'?
'Design for Behavioural Change' explores how design (in the broadest sense) can influence user behaviour to reduce the social and environmental impacts of products during use. This is an emerging field of enquiry in design practice and research
70
HEALTHSmart inks reacting to bacterial and viral infection for medical uniformsEarly warning systemsPrevention in the spread of disease
Farrer Sustainable +
Smart R+D
70
74
PROTECTION• Scrap the Cap Project
• A collaborative project between
• AUT University, local industry and The NZ Cancer Society
Rudi Gernreich Sun visors 1965Newsletter of the Cancer Society of New Zealand Auckland Division Inc74
75
Farrer- fashion textiles and sustainability -Conscience Clothing- Emmotional Wardrobe- Talking Tags- New Dynamics of Ageing
Intelligent textile applications + wearable electronics
8/17/200975
78
and this….
About 80% of the crop is grown under irrigation mainly along the Darling River and its tributaries in northern New South Wales and Queensland.
7979
IMPORTANTLY IT IS THIS…
The amount of
household waste generated in NZ per annum is
enough to carpet the North & South Island in a
layer of rubbish 40cm Deep…
80
BUT MOST SIGNIFICANTLY IT IS
THIS
New Zealand’s population of 4 million has
4th largest carbon footprint in the developed world
80
82
Ultra-lightweight, solar-powered plastic car I The lean, green Globetrotter car will be the future of transportation. Winning him the coveted Young Designer of the Year Award, Ravi’s car design for 2017 is independent of fossil fuels, packed with eco-friendly technologies, and cuts back the weight and bulk of today’s gas guzzlers. His design employs a carbon-neutral, bioplastic body that is 12% petroleum-based and 88% corn- based, which cuts manufacturing energy by 30%. And there’s more: a zinc-air fuel cell, a nano-paper battery, airless tires, nanopaints to absorb solar energy while parked to charge its batteries, and woven seat material. The Globetrotter is, indeed, the ultimate tread lightly automobile for the environmentally-savvy consumer
82
Materials - bio plastic Australia
83
RMIT and Sustainability
Leapfrog
using what has been done in other countries as a launch pad
the tools exist to incorporate and enhance the curriculum
85
Farrer’s Research What is in it for me?
• Communicating cradle to cradle issues for change/information is power
• Design towards problem solving not problem creation
• New Tran disciplinary collaborations for one of the oldest industries
• Empowerment for all customers• Sustainable Innovation
86 8/17/200986
The New Dynamics of Aging http://www.ahrc.ac.uk/
NZ Cancer Society www.cancernz.org.nz
DFID/EU Labour behind the Label Netherlands Fashioning an Ethical future www.labourbehindthelabel.org
SUSTAINABLE DESIGN NETWORK www.sustainabledesignnet.org
PRODUCT LIFESPAN NETWORK www.productlifespannet.org
LONDON TECHNOLOGY NETWORK www.ltnetwork.org
EMOTIONAL WARDROBE D421C www.emotionalwardrobe.co
EPSRC ‘SMART TEXTILES FOR INTELLIGENT CONSUMER PRODUCTS NETWORK’ www.smartextiles.co.uk
Materials KTN Institute of Materials DTI Smart. Mat www.materialsktn.org
EU RESEARCH NETWORKS