The Shrinking World

In the beverage cooler on the far right aisle of the storeyou will notice a row of old-fashion glass bottles filled witha clear soda. The taste of the soda is similar to Sprite, butthere is something different, something slightly more bit-ter, a taste unusual to your American palette. The greenand red logos on the bottles read “Limca,” and if you askthe owner he will tell you they are imported from India.Meander to the far left wall of the store, only two aislesover, and the condiments have names difficult to pro-nounce: Malacca Chinchalok, a sauce made of shreddedshrimp, salt and water, and Bumba Nasi Kuning, yellowrice seasoning. If the compactness of the store hasn’trevealed anything peculiar yet, then surely the distinctiveproducts give it away: You aren’t in Publix anymore.

A Cultural CrossroadsChai’s Oriental Food Store sits at the corner of Seventh

Avenue and 22nd Street, nestled beside Anthony’s Italianrestaurant. Near the entrance boxes of produce containeggplant, endives, Daikorn (turnips), taro root, mangoesand plantains. However, Chai says most customers comefor the various sauces and seasonings, such as Pad Thaiseasoning and Galanka, a sauce derived from a root.

Peter Chaiprakob, known as Chai, has owned the storefor almost thirty years, and although the name on the signsays “Oriental,” food from South America, Africa and theMiddle East are also part of his stock. The multi-ethnicityof Chai’s food is representative of a growing aspect ofBirmingham’s population: the integration of its interna-tional community.

68 B I R M I N G H A M C I T Y G U I D E

city guideinternational

T H E S H R I N K I N G

WORLDThe flavors of the worldhave come home toBirmingham.

BY CHRISTOPHER COPELAND

city guide international p68-76 4/29/09 3:55 PM Page 68

Chai himself is a result of multi-ethnic culture. He wasborn in Thailand to Chinese parents, and though he lovesthe international diversity of his store, he says he hasbecome “Americanized” inhis time here. Chai’s cus-tomers too share this cultur-al diversity; they are Thai,Korean, Chinese, Indian,Pakistani and much more.Chai seems to know everycustomer by name, andmany of them apparently

have frequented his store for years. One of these customers is

Gabriel Agbali, a Nigerian who haslived in Birmingham for twenty-seven years. In his noticeableaccent, Agbali says that Chai’s storeoffers food reminiscent of his cul-ture. Chai will even call him athome when African foods arrive soAgbali can be sure to get themfresh.

Another of Chai’s regulars is aPakistani woman who identifiesherself simply as Mrs. Moore. A for-mer part owner of Kabab andCurry restaurant, she now substi-tute teaches at the BirminghamIslamic Society, located inHomewood. She says her formerrestaurant, now called Shish Mahal,serves excellent food, but the placeto buy authentic Pakistani food inBirmingham is India Spice offLorna Road in Hoover. Neither Mrs.Moore nor her son, Shan (pro-nounced Shawn) carry an accent,but she makes it clear that shepasses on her cultural values.Places like India Spice, Chai’s andthe Islamic Society help her stayconnected to her roots.

While it seems there is not anorganized community for many ofBirmingham’s internationals, a sortof multi-ethic culture has devel-oped instead, evidenced by therelationship between Chai and hiscustomers. Kalai Mugilan, leader ofUAB’s Hindu Student Council, saysthat nationalities represented inBirmingham in small numbersoften unite in place of formal com-

munities. The trend is apparent in the council that Mugilanformed nine years ago as a place for Hindu students tofind community. Mugilan himself is Malaysian, and he

says the Council comprisesstudents from India, SriLanka, Bali, and even a fewfrom America.

So is Birmingham aninternational city? Mugilansays that the scarcity ofstores that specifically sell


Mr. & Mrs. Chaiprakob

Small pockets of international cultures arenetworking, and the market for ethnic goods

only grows. One need only look to IndiaHeritage, or La Mexicana for proof.



international items only indicates that there is no marketfor those things: “When there is a niche for it, those kindsof stores will come.”

However, there are plenty of places that showBirmingham as more cosmopolitan than residents mightimagine. One is the Hindu temple in Roebuck, one of twoin Birmingham, where Mugilan attends weekly services.Another is Natyananda (translated “Blissful dance”), a stu-dio operated by Sheila Rubin where Mugilan attends classtwice a week to learn Indian dance styles. He recently par-ticipated in an Indian dance exhibition at Alys StephensCenter replete with elaborate, colorful costumes from theculture.

Mugilan says one aspect of aforeign culture that usually with-stands assimilation is the food.This is one of the reasons Chai’s isso popular. Mugilan also recom-mends three restaurants inBirmingham for authentic WesternAsian cuisine: Taj India, Curry In aHurry, and Kabab and Curry, Mrs.Moore’s former restaurant.Mugilan does not know Moore, buthe smiles when asked if he isfamiliar with Chai’s Food Store.Mugilan does know Chai; he shopsthere regularly, and Chai was in hiswedding a year ago.

That’s not your average cus-tomer-grocer relationship, butChai’s presence in Birmingham istelling of its current status as aninternational city. Small pockets ofinternational cultures are network-ing, and the market for ethnicgoods only grows. One need onlylook to India Heritage, or LaMexicana for proof.

A Cultural MarketMiss the 2003 World Cup crick-

et match between India and SriLanka? No problem. You can rent acopy on VHS at India Heritage onLorna Road, along with hundredsof other tapes of international

sporting matches, Indian soap operas, or current hit filmsfrom Bollywood. The same goes for La Mexicana, aMexican tienda, or shop, down the road from IndiaHeritage where the latest Harry Potter film and otherselections can be rented in Spanish. Each store also sellsgroceries from its respective culture, and La Mexicanaeven has candles with pictures and names of Catholicsaints on the side.

These stores, each one of several of its kind inBirmingham, indicate that some international cultureshere are large enough to demand a market for goods fromhome. Hispanic culture in particular has boomed in


Chinese vegetables


There are plenty of places that show Birmingham as more cosmopolitan than residents might imagine. One is the Hindu temple in Roebuck, one of

two in Birmingham, where Mugilan attends weekly services.


Birmingham. A wealth of successful restaurants(including Sabor Latino, owned by Peruvian ManualBarco; Mexico Lindo, owned by a Robert Medinafrom Mexico City; and the Sol Y Luna, Los Angeles,Cantina triad owned by Guadalajara nativeGuillermo Castro) offer authentic cuisine and a fla-vor of the culture that has expanded rapidly inBirmingham over the last few years.

That there is a market for Hispanic culture isclear. The question remains though of whether thatculture is an isolated minority, or if it is a legitimateforce in the community. One answer is given byRaul Ortal, Radio Operations Manager at La DobleX, an exclusively Spanish radio station located at1450 AM on the airwaves. In its first month, Ortalsays the station already has many advertisers clam-oring for a share of the Hispanic market, includingseveral non-Hispanic businesses like car dealershipsthat have begun advertising in Spanish. Ortal feelsthat Spanish language advertising serves to legit-imize the Hispanic community by saying essential-ly that its participation is desired in the mainstreameconomics of Birmingham.

La Doble X, in addition to playing Latin music,offers public service announcements giving infor-mation on a variety of topics such as AIDS preven-tion, child support and spousal abuse assistance,where to find public libraries, and even how to use911 emergency services. Ortal wants to helpHispanics assimilate so they can participate in com-munity leadership rather than, as he says, “be seenas the end of the line segment of the population.” Ortal’smission for the radio station is threefold: provide enter-tainment, community information, and news, each a wayto help Hispanics adapt to American culture.

While members of large communities like the Hispanicand Greek ones have not become as integrated with otherinternational cultures, the market for international culturegrows in Birmingham. International flavor permeates thecity, and there are many ways for Americans to experi-ence this.

A Cultural OpportunityBirmingham is not quite yet an international haven.

Despite Chai’s house calls, Gabriel Agbali says he has totravel to Atlanta restaurants to experience true Nigeriancuisine, and Kalai Mugilan says that the Internet enablesmany Indians in Birmingham to buy art and other mer-chandise direct from the home country. However, thereare many opportunities for people in Birmingham to dis-cover the arts and culture of other places.

Devyani Dance Center on Crestwood Boulevard cur-rently offers classes in both Spanish and African style

dance with plans to add Irish and Indian folkloric stylessoon. Studio owner Megha says that classes are open tothe general public with some even available on a pay-per-class basis. Students perform for the public on Wednesdaynights at Chez Lulu, and every other Friday at the RedHorse Tavern.

Finally, one look at the 2004-05 schedule of perfor-mances at Alys Stephens Center shows that Birminghamis indeed embracing other cultures. Included amongupcoming performances are Peking Acrobats on February20 and Ballet Folklorico Quetzalli on April 22. In addition,the Alys Stephens Center Kids’ Club will offer AfricanMusic and Dance in February.

Birmingham is a cosmopolitan city that will continueto grow. While there may never be a Chinatown or LittleItaly here, various world cultures are available for thosewilling to embrace them. Want to expand your world?Why not stop in at Chai’s and purchase a Limca? You maymake a new friend as well as a grocer.

Authentic BirminghamThree restaurant owners who show pride in their her-

itage through cuisine



Nabeel’s in Homewood


Tasty JamaicaIn Five Points West, smoke rises behind a vibrant red,

green and yellow building on 3rd Avenue North. NativeJamaican Bernard Burrell mans the grill at Tasty Jamaica,a Caribbean restaurant with menu items such as jerkchicken, Jamaican beef patties, and peach tea. Burrellknows many Jamaicans in Birmingham, but says there islittle in the way of authentic Caribbean culture here. Heopened Tasty Jamaica five years ago as a way to fill thatvoid, and the restaurant is part of a three-step plan thatincludes a reggae nightclub and a Caribbean grocerystore. Be careful of the jerk chicken though; it is smoth-ered in a tasty jerk sauce unlike the mild kind served inother Birmingham restaurants. Served with a warning anda smile, the flavor is worth the bite!

Nabeel’sEstablished in 1972 by a Palestinian, Nabeel’s is now

owned by Anthony Krontiras, born to a Greek father (for-mer owner John, who is still involved in restaurant opera-tions) and an Italian mother. Nabeel’s cuisine reflects thefamily’s mixed heritage; Krontiras says customer favoritesare the eggplant parmesan (“I don’t even like eggplant,but I’ll eat the parmesan; It’s that good”), chicken skew-ers, and lamb chops. Krontiras says he provides very tra-ditional dishes. The restaurant’s website(www.nabeels.com) publishes a newsletter informing cus-tomers about Greek foods and culture and offering recipesfor Greek dishes. Step into the adjoining market and finda truly multicultural blend of products: Russian bread,chocolates, and nut spread; Swedish cookies; Hungariansausage; jellies from Greece, Turkey and Lebanon; squidin ink sauce from Spain; Greek, Argentine and Israeliwine; and Brazilian coffee enhanced by cardamom spicein Lebanon.

Sabor LatinoThe fish on the plate is cold and looks raw, but you

thought you were going for Mexican food, not sushi. Forseven years, owner Manual Barco has offeredBirmingham diners a one of a kind experience at SaborLatino: A taste of Peru. The appetizer on the plate iscalled ceviche, and the fish is “cooked” by the citric acidof lemon juice and served cold. Barco’s daughter, Lilianasays many customers come for the Mexican, but try thePeruvian food and really enjoy it. Favorite entrees likeSeco con frijoles (beef stew with cilantro sauce, beans,

and rice) make Sabor Latino a unique flavor inBirmingham. The restaurant has two locations, one on280 near Greystone, the other in Homewood at the inter-section of Valley Avenue and Greensprings Highway. Atthe Homewood location Peruvian is offered only on week-ends with traditional Mexican cuisine served during theweek.

Smolian International HouseUAB has long been the epicenter of Birmingham’s

international population, and the Smolian Internationalhouse provides a place for students to facilitate the transi-tion into American culture. The International House offersmeeting rooms for student organizations, a lounge com-plete with big screen television and satellite where stu-dents can relax or study, and dorm rooms for visiting fam-ilies or students in transition seeking permanent housing.

The house is not just for international students though.American students are welcome, as activities are meant tointroduce international students to American culture, butalso American students to international culture.Conversational language courses are offered in languagesincluding English, Spanish, Japanese, and German.American traditions like Thanksgiving are celebrated, andInternational House is involved each year with theBirmingham International Festival. In addition, theFriendship Partners Programs pairs international studentswith local residents to aid adjustment to life inBirmingham.

Smolian International House is open to all who wish tolearn more about different cultures. Kalai Mugilan, leaderof the Hindu Student Council that meets at InternationalHouse says that his organization’s meetings are open toanyone who would like to attend. The idea is to promoteunderstanding and share information across cultures. Forthe many international students who often become long-term residents, Smolian International House provides thatopportunity. For more information contact InternationalHouse at (205) 934-1205 or visit the website at http://stu-dents.uab.edu/services.



Devyani Dance Center on Crestwood Boulevard currently offers classes in both Spanishand African style dance with plans to add Irish and Indian folkloric styles soon.

The idea is to promote understanding andshare information across cultures...

Smolian International House providesthat opportunity.


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The Shrinking World