The Society’s ‘A Tour of Portugal Walkaround’ tasting. We’ve always flown the flag for Portugal – after all, our business began with the sale of Portuguese wines to the UK back in 1874 – and we’ve continued to lead the charge, most recently winning ‘Specialist Merchant for Portugal’ at the 2018 International Wine Challenge. But advances in winemaking, a better understanding of local grape varieties and a huge boom in wine tourism have shone a much-deserved spotlight on these exceptional wines, so there’s no better time to discover Portuguese wine for yourself! The Society’s sweetness code: White wines from bone dry [1] to lusciously sweet [9] ♦ = sparkling wine ○ = white wine ● = red wine F = fortified wine S = screwcap closure

An aid as to what style of wine can be found where.

Unoaked dry white wines

Wine 1 Anselmo Mendes ‘Muros Antigos’ Loureiro, Vinho Verde 2018

Wine 2 Anselmo Mendes Contacto Alvarinho, Vinho Verde 2018

Wine 3 Quinta da Calçada Alvarinho, Minho 2018

Wine 4 Soalheiro Alvarinho, Vinho Verde 2018

Wine 5 Soalheiro Primeiras Vinhas Alvarinho, Vinho Verde 2018

Wine 16 Azevedo Loureiro-Alvarinho Vinho Verde 2018

Wine 19 Vadio Branco, Bairrada 2017

Wine 26 Esporão Monte Velho Branco, Alentejano 2018

Wine 27 Esporão Colheita Branco, Alentejano 2018

Wine 29 Adega de Colares ‘Arenae’ Malvasia, Colares 2017

Wine 32 Quinta da Espiga, Lisboa 2018

Wine 33 Quinta de Porrais Sete Vales, Douro 2018

Oaked and fuller-bodied dry white wines

Wine 6 Crasto Superior Branco, Douro 2017

Wine 13 Ribeiro Santo Branco, Dão 2018

Wine 14 Ribeiro Santo Automático, Dão 2017

Wine 17 Quinta dos Carvalhais Colheita Branco, Dão 2018

Wine 18 Quinta dos Carvalhais Branco Especial, Dão (Bottled 2017)

Wine 21 Quinta da Fonte Souto ‘Florão’, Alentejano 2018

Wine 22 Quinta da Fonte Souto, Alentejo 2017

Light and medium bodied dry red wines

Wine 15 Carlos Lucas Ribeiro Santo, Dão 2017

Wine 20 Vadio Bairrada Tinto 2015

Wine 28 Esporão Monte Velho Tinto, Alentejano 2018

Wine 30 Adega de Colares Chão Rijo, Lisboa 2016

Wine 31 Adega de Colares ‘Arenae’ Ramisco, Colares 2010 50cl

Full bodied dry red wines

Wine 7 Crasto, Douro 2017

Wine 8 Crasto Superior, Douro 2016

Wine 9 The Society’s Exhibition Douro 2014

Wine 10 Quinta do Vale Meão, Douro 2014

Wine 11 Quinta do Vale Meão, Douro, 2010

Wine 12 M.O.B. Lote 3, Dão 2016

Wine 23 Quinta da Fonte Souto ‘Florão’, Alentejano 2017

Wine 24 Quinta da Fonte Souto, Alentejo 2017

Wine 25 Quinta da Fonte Souto ‘Vinha do Souto’, Alentejo 2017

Wine 34 Al-Ria Tinto, Algarve 2017

Wine 35 OMG, Lisboa 2016

Wine 36 Cerejeiras Colheita Seleccionada, Lisboa 2017

Lighter styles of fortified wines

Wine 37 Casa Ermelinda Freitas Moscatel de Setúbal

Wine 38 Henriques and Henriques Sercial, 10 Years Old

Wine 39 Henriques and Henriques Bual, 15 Years Old

Wine 42 Graham’s Blend No 5 White Port

Fuller-bodied styles of fortified wines

Wine 40 Henriques and Henriques Malvasia, 10 Years Old

Wine 41 Henriques and Henriques Medium Rich Single Harvest Madeira 1998

Wine 43 Graham’s Tawny Port 20 Years Old

Wine 44 Graham’s Natura Reserve Port

Wine 45 The Society’s Exhibition Crusted Port, Bottled 2013

Wine 46 Cockburn’s Quinta dos Canais 2010

Wine 47 The Society’s Exhibition Vintage Port 1985

MINHO Minho is situated in north-west Portugal. This is Vinho Verde country, where rain-bearing westerly winds from the Atlantic support intensive cultivation. 90% of the holdings in this region are less than five hectares in size. ANSELMO MENDES Fuchsia Adamthwaite Anselmo Mendes was born in Monção, an area in the vinho verde region in north Portugal best known for the alvarinho grape, known elsewhere as albariño. He considers his winery in Minho valley as a place of experimentation, where he uses traditional methods – such as allowing skin contact with the juice during fermentation – alongside more innovative techniques. Some of his alvarinho is also carefully fermented and aged in French oak. 1. ○ [2] Anselmo Mendes ‘Muros Antigos’ Loureiro, Vinho Verde

2018 Consistently delightful Vinho Verde, light, whistle clean and with the flower meadow aroma of the loureiro grape. Drink this year and next. 12% S ref PW7441 £8.95 bottle £107 dozen

The Vinho Verde DOC officially divides into six sub-regions, distinguished by climatic differences and the varieties grown there. The area around Monção produces Vinhos Verdes with alcohol levels of up to 13% from the alvarinho grape. Further south along the river Lima, around the towns of Braga, Barcelos and Guimarães, the dominant varieties are loureiro, trajadura and pedernã. These wines tend to be light-bodied with fresh acidity and an alcoholic strength of between 8 to 12%. Inland toward the river Douro, around the town of Baião, the warmer, drier climate tends to produce a slightly fuller style of wine from the grape variety avesso.

2. ○ [1] Anselmo Mendes Contacto Alvarinho, Vinho Verde 2018 A superlative, mineral-streaked dry white from the Monção e Melgaço sub-region. This is crisper, more structured and precise than typical Spanish versions from just across the border. Drink now to 2023. 13% ref PW7521 £12.95 bottle £155 dozen QUINTA DA CALÇADA André Estacio Pinto Much of Calçada’s 50 hectares of vineyards are located around the sub-region of Amarante and are planted to alvarinho, loureiro, avesso, arinto and azal. Being so

close to the Douro the region is relatively warm and dry for Vinho Verde and this benign climate, together with high density planting, accounts for the relative body and concentration of the wines. 3. ○ [2] Quinta da Calçada Alvarinho, Minho 2018 From the eastern side of this Portuguese region (Minho, rather than Vinho Verde), this fuller-bodied style has the lovely ripe stone-fruit flavours of the alvarinho grape. Drink now to 2021. 13% ref PW7471 £9.50 bottle £114 dozen QUINTA DE SOALHEIRO Lúcia Barbosa with James Hands Quinta de Soalheiro is to be found about as far north as you can go in Portugal, in the sub region of Monçao e Melgaço. They are almost in sight of the Spanish border and are a good distance from the sea so they get less of the downpours so frequent in this part of Iberia. Here organically grown alvarinho grapes are cultivated on 15 hectares of vineyards on granitic slopes at 100 to 200 metres altitude, sheltered by a range of mountains but with wonderful exposure to the sun. Indeed, the name Soalheiro is derived from the Portuguese for ‘sunny place’. João Antonio Cerdeira is an oenologist with experience of working in Burgundy and he planted the first alvarinho vines here in 1974, lured by the special microclimate and before the region was even a recognised wine growing area. In 1982 he released the first Soalheiro wine. Today the estate is run by his sons Luís and João, with the help of their sister Maria, who make the most of the now mature vines with low yields and expert winemaking. They are widely regarded as one of the most serious growers of alvarinho in Portugal. 4. ○ [1] Soalheiro Alvarinho, Vinho Verde 2018 A ‘classic’ Soalheiro, fragrant and expressive, its vivid fruit underpinned by a bright Atlantic freshness which makes it a joy to drink with or without food. Drink now until 2023. 12.5% ref PW7771 £17.00 bottle £204 dozen

Alvarinho was one of the first Portuguese grape varieties to be bottled as a single variety. Its full-flavoured, fragrant white wines are easy to recognise by their aromas which can include peach, lemon, passion fruit, lychee, orange zest, jasmine, orange blossom and lemon balm. The wines are delicious young, but they can also age well, often for ten years or more. Alvarinho grows mostly along the River Minho, right

up in the north of the Vinho Verde region in the sub-region of Monção and Melgaço. Compared to other Vinho Verde, it makes richer wines which are higher in alcohol.

5. ○ [2] Soalheiro Primeiras Vinhas Alvarinho, Vinho Verde 2018 In Portugal, ‘first’ vines (primeiras vinhas) are the old vines, here around 40 years old, which deliver the expected greater depth and complexity, but displayed in an exquisitely refined, pristine white with floral aromas and crystalline freshness. Drink now to 2025. 13% ref PW7761 £21.00 bottle £252 dozen

DOURO The Douro is most famous as the source of Port; however the region is increasingly known for the production of unfortified table wines too. These days, depending on the year, up to 55% of the Douro’s total wine production is used to make table wine. The grape varieties used in making these red wines are similar to those used to produce Port with over 100 different varieties officially sanctioned. QUINTA DO CRASTO Cátia Barbeta Husband and wife Jorge and Leonor Roquette had been in charge of this estate since the 1980s, and have now handed day to day running to their sons Miguel and Tomás. Together they manage 70 hectares of vineyards on the right bank of the Douro River. Most of the vines are over 20 years old, but the oldest date back over 100 years. The grapes are local Douro varieties, including tinta roriz, touriga nacional, touriga franca and tinta barroca for the reds, and gouveio, roupeiro, rabigato, viosinho and verdelho for the whites. Investment in recent years has seen important updates both to vineyard organisation and winery technology – although the team still proudly upholds the tradition of crushing some of the grapes by foot in granite lagares! On the whole, however, much more modern techniques are used, with wines fermented and matured in a variety of temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks for a fresher, fruitier style. 6. ○ [2] Crasto Superior Branco, Douro 2017 Altitude is key to the freshness in this verdelho/viosinho blend from the hot, dry Douro Superior. Carefully barrel-fermented and matured in French oak for six months, it retains a fine seam of acidity to lift the palate. Drink now to 2022. 13.5% ref PW7601 £14.50 bottle £164 dozen*

*Part of the Portuguese Offer, supplier supported discount. Save £10 per dozen, no further discount on 12 bottles.

Traditionally unpopular because of its very low yields, viosinho is now highly regarded as a component both in Port and in unfortified Douro white blends. It makes full-bodied but fresh, well-balanced wines bringing a touch of floral and apricot fruit flavours to the blend.

7. ● Crasto, Douro 2017 Delicious in the warmer 2017 vintage, the haunting fruit and silky, beautifully balanced palate of this benchmark Portuguese red will draw you further into ‘Charlotte’s Web’, Crasto’s very own eco-friendly charter. Drink now to 2022. 14% ref PW7491 £9.95 bottle £104 dozen* *Part of the Portuguese Offer, supplier supported discount. Save £15 per dozen, no further discount on 12 bottles.

The Crasto estate has belonged to the Roquette family for over a century, but it dates back much further: the name comes from the Latin ‘castrum’, meaning Roman fort, and there are records of this estate from as early as 1615.

8. ● Crasto Superior, Douro 2016 Richly textured red with velvety ripe red berry and black cherry fruit enhanced by careful oak maturation to soften the tannins and round out the acidity. Drink now to 2023. 13.5% ref PW7741 £14.50 bottle £174 dozen QUINTA DO VALE MEÃO Luísa Olazabal The Quinta do Vale Meão estate was the ‘last great achievement’ of Antónia Adelaide Ferreira, the legendary Great Lady of the Douro, and the only property which was totally planted by her on 300 hectares of barren common land purchased at auction from the town council of Vila Nova de Foz Côa in 1877. The project took eight years to complete and Antónia just saw it come to fruition, dying the following year in 1896. Originally the estate supplied grapes that went into perhaps Portugal’s most famous red table wine to date, Barca Velha. It is now owned by her great-great grandson Francisco Javier de Olazabal. He left the Port and Douro Wine Company A.A. Ferreira in 1998 to develop his own winemaking project with his son, Francisco (Xito) de Olazabal y Nicolau de Almeida, and Xito’s sister Luísa now manages sales and marketing of the wines.

The century-old winery has subsequently been totally refurbished, adding modern winemaking equipment but retaining the tradition of old granite lagares. 9. ● The Society’s Exhibition Douro 2014 We’ve been holding back the latest vintage of our Exhibition Douro, to allow it a little more bottle age. A fragrant and well-structured blend of traditional Portuguese grape varieties, all foot-trodden in granite lagares, this will benefit from decanting while still so young, but its succulent fruit is now opening up beautifully alongside clove and cedar spice. Drink now to 2026. 14% ref PW6551 £13.95 bottle £167 dozen

The Douro wine region follows the course of the river down from the Spanish border to a point near the town of Mesão Frio, about 90km up-river from the city of Porto (Oporto). Here the Serra do Marão rises up, protecting the region from the influence of the Atlantic Ocean. Rain falls mainly on the western side of the Marão range, and to a certain extent in the western end of the Douro wine region, but dwindles further up-river, and by the Spanish border conditions are almost desert-like.

10. ● Quinta do Vale Meão, Douro 2014 The latest vintage of the estate’s flagship wine is still young and vigorous but already shows its inherent class, its deep black fruits couched in rich, smooth fruit on the palate. Drink now to 2030. 14.5% ref PW6561 £74.00 bottle £888 dozen Low stock 11. ● Quinta do Vale Meão, Douro, 2010 Much less dense than the 2011s, the result of higher rainfall, this is already showing rich savoury flavours intermingled with dark fruits. More touriga nacional came into play (60%), and a splash of tinto cão was added to the blend to produce a smooth, well balanced whole. Drink now to 2021. 14% ref PW4021 £65.00 bottle £780 dozen Low stock

DÃO A wine region in north-central Portugal, Dão is home to some of the country’s best red wines. Surrounded on three sides by granite mountains and sheltered from the Atlantic, the region benefits from long, warm summers and plentiful winter rainfall.

The sandy soils which dominate the region are well drained and there is a wealth of indigenous varieties grown in the area. M.O.B. Luísa Olazabal with Jonathan Scarfe Jorge Moreira, winemaker at Quinta de La Rosa, Francisco Olazabal of Quinta do Vale Meão and Jorge Serôdio Borges, winemaker at Passadouro have been friends since their university days and have come together on this winemaking venture. They chose the Dão Valley for their love of its wines and its poor granite soils and cool nights with such potential to produce quality wines. 12. ● M.O.B. Lote 3, Dão 2016 Three great winemakers, three great grapes, three prime vineyards: this shows the intensity of fruit, elegance and potential of the region's classic blends. Touriga nacional doesn't dominate here, so the overall effect is a more savoury, complex wine, with the freshness of jaen and structure of alfrocheiro in support. Drink now to 2022. 13% ref PW7691 £10.95 bottle £131 dozen

Few would dispute that the touriga nacional is one of Portugal’s finest red grape varieties. Though Northern in origin, it has spread widely across the country, although it is still not planted in great volume. A thick-skinned grape variety, wines made from touriga nacional have excellent structure and ageing capacity with intense flavours which are at the same time floral and fruity – ripe blackcurrants, raspberries – with notes of herbs, violets and liquorice.

MAGNUM VINHOS Diogo Lucas Established in 2012 by a team of three experienced winemakers, Magnum Vinhos has its roots in the Dão region but also produces wines from Alentejo and Douro. Led by Carlos Lucas they chose to focus on authentic wines made from indigenous Portuguese grapes. The Quinta do Ribeiro Santo (‘Holy River’) estate in Carregal Sal is a small Dão property restored by Carlos Lucas. It was named after the stream which surrounds the property once owned by the local priest. Set among the pine forests typical of the region on the slopes of the Serra da Estrela and Serra do Caramulo mountains, the vineyards are farmed sustainably and certified under the ‘Integrated Production system’. There are six hectares of vineyards here, planted to local grape varieties including touriga nacional, alfrocheiro, tinto cão and encruzado.

13. ○ [1] Ribeiro Santo Branco, Dão 2018 Fresh, dry Dão white made from typical local grapes encruzado and malvasia-fina, to serve with food or without. Drink this year and next. 12.5% ref PW7631 £7.95 bottle £95 dozen

Encruzado is Dão’s star white variety and has great potential. Whites made from encruzado tend to have delicate floral and mineral aromas with lemon flavours. The variety marries well with both oak and lees ageing, giving a well-structured wine that is a little like white Burgundy in style. The best examples can age brilliantly, taking on hazelnut aromas in time.

14. ○ [2] Ribeiro Santo Automático, Dão 2017 “Less ON, more OFF” is how Carlos Lucas describes his winemaking approach to this wine, which ferments naturally in a quirky, tailor-made stainless steel vat. Old vine encruzado – the region's signature white grape – offers the aromas of white flowers in its youth, developing more toasty flavours as it matures. Drink now to 2021. 13% ref PW7681 £13.95 bottle £167 dozen 15. ● Carlos Lucas Ribeiro Santo, Dão 2017 With charming notes of wild cherry and herbs, and a ripe palate with a touch of oak flavour, this is an easy-drinking Dão red with a clean fresh finish. Drink now to 2021. 13% ref PW7451 £7.95 bottle £95 dozen

Ribeiro Santo is a world away from the Dão reds of old and is a fine example of what this region can produce, focusing on quality in the vineyards and modern techniques in the winery. Dão reds used to have bracing acidity and often high tannins too. These days the grapes are riper and the flavours have greater purity, especially in the hands of a younger generation.

MINHO AND DÃO SOGRAPE VINHOS Rachael Deal Founded in 1942 by Fernando van Zeller Guedes, Sogrape’s ambition is to make Portuguese wines known throughout the world, with a long-term vision based on the marketing of high-quality wines and brands. Today run by the third generation of the founding family, Sogrape now owns about

830 hectares of vineyards in Portugal. Each winery is operated as a separate entity in order to ensure that regional representation and authenticity is combined with the experience and knowledge of the group as a whole. Here we will be focussing on a selection of their white wines. 16. ○ [1] Azevedo Loureiro-Alvarinho Vinho Verde 2018 A new, smartly dressed blend from long-term supplier Quinta de Azevedo, combining this Portuguese region’s two most fragrant grapes. Light and delicate, this makes ideal summer drinking, but may be enjoyed all year round. Loureiro brings all those meadow scents, the alvarinho riper stone-fruit aromas and more body. Together they make for a beautifully balanced whole. Drink this year and next. 12% S ref PW7421 £9.50 bottle £114 dozen

Loureiro is the Portuguese for laurel, referring to the aroma of the berries which is similar to that of laurel flowers and leaves. In addition to these aromas, varietal wines made from loureiro can display aromas of orange, acacia blossom, peach and green apple.

17. ○ [2] Quinta dos Carvalhais Colheita Branco, Dão 2018 A blend of encruzado and gouveio from Sogrape’s own Carvalhais vineyard. Bright and pristine, with delicate bouquet of lemon citrus and white flowers, mineral precision and long fresh finish. Drink now to 2021. 13% ref PW7641 £11.95 bottle £143 dozen 18. ○ [2] Quinta dos Carvalhais Branco Especial, Dão (Bottled 2017) A blend of ‘05, ‘06, and ‘09 vintages, kept in barrel on average 10 years, this extraordinary wine is just the third modern-day release of its kind. Rich and spicy, still displaying some creamy oak notes, with hints of honey and white flowers, bread and toast, this finishes full, dry and long on the palate. Drink over the next 12 months. 14% ref PW7611 £40.00 bottle £480 dozen Low stock

BAIRRADA Bairrada is a small region to the west of Dão, capable of producing some of Portugal’s greatest wines, as it benefits from the cooling onshore breezes from the Atlantic Ocean. Unusually for Portugal’s wine-producing areas, over 90% of Bairrada’s red wines are made predominantly or exclusively from the grape variety

baga. Baga is a small, thick-skinned variety which produces dark, tannic reds with fresh acidity and the potential for long ageing. VADIO Eduarda Dias with Miguel Leal Until recently, having finished his work for the week at renowned Portuguese estate Herdade do Esporão in the Alentejo, winemaker Luís Patrão headed north and back home to the village of Poutena in Bairrada where he worked with his father Dinis on their original three hectares of vines. Now his focus is entirely at home, where Dinis looks after the vineyard and Luís makes the wines. Working with several varieties, three of them very particular to his home region, Luís is making quite a name for himself as one of Portugal’s best winemakers and has slowly bought more vineyards. For the reds the baga variety is king hereabouts, and Luís works with the fruit of many old vines. For whites he can create wines from a palette of cercial and bical (both indigenous to Bairrada) together with encruzado, arinto and verdelho which Luís planted. He makes the wines in an old warehouse that has been converted into a simple winery. 19. ○ [2] Vadio Branco, Bairrada 2017 A refined Bairrada, this has the typical mineral freshness of the region’s indigenous grapes cercial and bical. Drink now to 2021. 12.5% ref PW7141 £12.95 bottle £155 dozen Cercial is a light-skinned wine grape variety found in the Dão, Bairrada and Tejo wine regions. Rarely found as a single varietal, it tends to add acidity and minerality to a blend, although with age the variety can develop flavours of honey, fennel and smoky gunflint aromas.

20. ● Vadio Bairrada Tinto 2015 Elegant Bairrada via a ripe vintage. Expect fresh floral aromas, cherry and spice notes, along with the baga grape’s signature tannic chalky ‘cut’ on the finish. Drink now to 2023. 12.5% ref PW7311 £12.95 bottle £155 dozen The baga grape produces wines with deep colour in their youth and a rich, tannic, high-acid structure, with clear flavours of berries and black plums and hints of coffee, hay, tobacco and smoke. Though often astringent when young, baga wines

(especially the best ones from Bairrada) can age remarkably well, softening and gaining elegance and a herby, cedary, dried fruit complexity.

ALENTEJO Alentejo is a region in which, unusually for Portugal, the climate is not determined by the influence of the Atlantic. The region has a more continental climate, with baking hot summers, in which temperatures regularly exceed 35˚C, and cold winters. The least populated of Portugal’s regions, Alentejo is mostly dominated by large estates rather than the small holdings typically found in the north of the country, but new investment in small estates, especially in cooler parts of the region, is a growing trend. It is the region’s reds which have put Alentejo on the map, producing wines with rich, ripe, intense fruit that can be almost ‘new world’ in style, but some fine whites are also made. SYMINGTON FAMILY ESTATES Anthony Symington with João Vasconcelos The Symington family is the dominant force in the Port trade. They own 2,400 hectares of land in the Douro Valley across 26 individual Quintas (Estates) where over 1,000 hectares are planted with vines. As of 2017 they are also owners of an estate in the higher-lying, cooler Portalegre sub-region to the north east of the Alentejo – their first outside the Douro – with the first wines released in 2019. 21. ○ [2] Quinta da Fonte Souto ‘Florão’, Alentejano 2018 A blend of local grapes part barrel-fermented in older oak, this deliciously intriguing white offers stone fruit, citrus and floral aromas lifted by a salty tang and mineral freshness on the palate. Drink now to 2022. 13.5% ref PW7801 £11.95 bottle £143 dozen Barrel fermented wines are more about highlighting texture, structure and mouthfeel than the primary fruit aromas and flavours typical of fermentation in stainless steel. As well as imparting some oak flavour, barrel fermented wines have a rounder, broader mouth feel and firmer structure. Barrel fermented wines also tend to have more lees contact which contributes a textural creaminess and yeasty character to the wine.

22. ○ [2] Quinta da Fonte Souto, Alentejo 2017 Crisp and taut white, with a delicate floral aroma, clean, wet-stone, salty freshness and finely honed texture on the palate. A blend of 75% arinto and 25% verdelho, both native grape varieties, this will be a delight with seafood. Drink now to 2022. 14% ref PW7781 £17.00 bottle £204 dozen 23. ● Quinta da Fonte Souto ‘Florão’, Alentejano 2017 Beautiful colour with appetisingly fresh red and black fruit fragrance, developing richer and floral aromas, and hints of bittersweet morello cherry and marzipan, followed by a smooth but fresh finish. Drink now to 2022. 14% ref PW7821 £11.95 bottle £143 dozen 24. ● Quinta da Fonte Souto, Alentejo 2017 A five varietal blend based on 40% alicante bouschet which here contributes depth of colour, silky texture and hints of dark chocolate to the otherwise complex floral aromas with notes of woody herbs. A beauty of a maiden vintage. Drink now to 2026. 14% ref PW7811 £17.00 bottle £204 dozen 25. ● Quinta da Fonte Souto ‘Vinha do Souto’, Alentejo 2017 Just 600 dozen were made of this impressive young wine, a blend of alicante bouschet and syrah which spent eleven months in barrel, 80% of which was new oak. Rich and complex aromas of roses, black cherry and creamy oak are supported by refined tannins and velvety texture. Drink now to 2030. 14.5% ref PW7791 £47.00 bottle £564 dozen HERDADE DO ESPORÃO David Baverstock with Clare Lambert Herdade do Esporão is Portugal’s largest privately owned wine company, producing around 10 million bottles per annum, and, in our view, proof that big can be beautiful. The large Esporão estate is in the heart of the Alentejo and forms an oasis in this strikingly dry landscape. A good part of Esporão’s production comes from their own fruit, but other needs are satisfied by long term contracts with local growers. The long-term chief winemaker is David Baverstock, responsible for the introduction of verdelho, semillon, syrah, and a range of single-varietal wines.

26. ○ [2] Esporão Monte Velho Branco, Alentejano 2018 More delicate in the new vintage, this popular white is made from local grape varieties coaxed, year-in-year-out, by the skilled Esporão team to make a super adaptable food-friendly white. Drink this year and next. 13.5% ref PW7541 £7.95 bottle £95 dozen 27. ○ [1] Esporão Colheita Branco, Alentejano 2018 A fresh and citrusy white wine from Esporão’s certified organic vineyards, this has touches of lime flower/leaf on the nose, creamy texture, and crisp finish. Drink this year and next. 14% ref PW7591 £9.95 bottle £119 dozen Low stock 28. ● Esporão Monte Velho Tinto, Alentejano 2018 A wine which delivers year after year. Local aragonez, trincadeira and touriga nacional are blended with syrah, which brings a bit more colour and a satisfying spicy touch to this otherwise smooth, fruity red. Drink now until 2021. 13% ref PW7531 £7.75 bottle £93 dozen “Australian David Baverstock has been in charge of winemaking at the consistently impressive Esporão since the early 1990s, and his skill (working with Sandra Alves) is apparent in the remarkable bargain that is the suave but generous Esporão Monte Velho Tinto.” David Williams, The Observer

COLARES The most westerly wine region in Europe, Colares is a sliver of land along rugged cliffs on the Atlantic coast north-west of Lisbon, where the soils are either sand or clay dominated. In the early 20th century, when the rest of Europe was trying to get over the devastating effects of the phylloxera louse, Colares was largely protected due to the region’s sandy soils and was much in demand all over the continent. Today many of the vines in the sandier soils are a century or more old and remain ungrafted, and together with the effects of the nearby ocean, provide unique circumstances for growing two rare native grape varieties, the white malvasia de Colares and red ramisco. The vineyard work here is very traditional, eschewing the use of chemicals, leaving vines untrained until the summer gets very hot when they are lifted on canes to prevent the hot sand scorching the grapes, and protecting the vines from the Atlantic winds with stone walls and cane fences.

It almost goes without saying that all work is done by hand! ADEGA DE COLARES Lance Foyster MW The Adega de Colares co-operative is a major concern in the region, making 51% of the wine produced here. Viticulturist and oenologist Francisco Figueiredo oversees production at the beautiful 19th century cellars. A local man, he is dedicated to preserving the unique characteristics of the vines and wines of Colares, the produce of a unique terroir. 29. ○ [2] Adega de Colares ‘Arenae’ Malvasia, Colares 2017 From the sands (arenae) of Colares where the rare malvasia de Colares grape variety grows ungrafted. A unique wine combining floral and mineral aromas, and palate breadth and freshness, it will develop more savoury notes over time. Drink now to 2021. 12.5% ref PW7841 £26.00 50cl bottle £312 dozen

Nearly all European vines are grafted onto American rootstocks in order to protect them from the tiny louse phylloxera. Phylloxera first made an appearance in Europe in the 1850s and devastated European vineyards as European vines – vitis vinifera – are not immune to the pest. Fortunately American vines are, but the wines made from these vines often have a distinct ‘foxy’ flavour. So, by grafting European vines onto American rootstock you get the best of both worlds. Phylloxera does not do well in very sandy soils and so, whilst it is still a risk, some producers working with such soils will plant vines on their own rootstocks.

30. ● Adega de Colares Chão Rijo, Lisboa 2016 New to us this year and made by the team at the Adega de Colares, this is different from the traditional Colares reds, yet shares their fragrant, structured and refreshing aroma and taste profile. A versatile food wine, but Italian and other Mediterranean flavours should be spot on. Drink now to 2021. 12.5% ref PW7851 £10.95 bottle £131 dozen 31. ● Adega de Colares ‘Arenae’ Ramisco, Colares 2010 50cl The rare ramisco grape grows ungrafted in the sands (arenae) of the region producing a unique and distinctive wine which offers a floral fragrance and firm structure reminiscent of north Italian nebbiolo, with marked tannins and a refreshing wild cherry freshness. Drink now to 2030. 12% ref PW7831 £26.00 50cl bottle £312 dozen

ALGARVE, DOURO AND LISBOA Lisboa is a large, coastal region that runs north from Lisbon. Onshore breezes from the Atlantic help cool the vineyards and maintain the fresh acidity and aromatics in the mostly white wines. North of Bucelas, on the Atlantic west coast above the town of Lisbon, lies the strip of rolling countryside that contains nine separate DOCs under the umbrella name of Lisboa. This is Portugal’s largest wine-producing region in volume terms. The Algarve has been an important centre for winemaking for centuries – here the typically Mediterranean mild climate, with more than 3,000 hours of sunshine per year, the proximity to the ocean and the clay and limestone soils ensure perfect conditions for producing high-quality grapes. CASA SANTOS LIMA The Casa Santos Lima winery is situated in the Alenquer, approximately 45 kilometres north of Lisbon. The estate has about 200 hectares of vines, around half of which have been planted since 1990. It is a family property now run by José Oliveira da Silva, who was the first of the family to bottle his own production back in 1996 (his grandfather sold in barrel). It is made up of a number of Quintas which each serve as wine ‘brands’, including Quinta da Espiga. The cellar was built in the 1940s but has been upgraded and modernised steadily for the production of great-quality everyday drinking wines. Fifty or so myriad grape varieties are planted, both indigenous Portuguese and international. 32. ○ [2] Quinta da Espiga, Lisboa 2018 Refreshing, light and grapy dry white blend which makes a delicious glass on its own, or enjoy it with fish dishes and salads. Drink this year and next. 12.5% S ref PW7431 £6.50 bottle £71 dozen* *Part of the Portuguese Offer, supplier supported discount. Save £7 per dozen, no further discount on 12 bottles. The most basic element of food and wine pairing is the understanding of the balance between the weight of the food and the weight (or body) of the wine. Pair a lightly flavoured dish with a robust wine, or vice versa, and the one will overpower the other, get the balance right and you’re most of the way there. The rest is a lot about personal taste.

33. ○ [2] Quinta de Porrais Sete Vales, Douro 2018 A crisp, light and friendly white to match with salads, shellfish, seafood and poultry, or just enjoy by the glass. Drink this year and next. 12.5% ref PW7481 £6.75 bottle £75 dozen* *Part of the Portuguese Offer, supplier supported discount. Save £6 per dozen, no further discount on 12 bottles. 34. ● Al-Ria Tinto, Algarve 2017 Local stalwarts touriga nacional and tinta roriz meet international traveller syrah, which has settled so well here, in a full-bodied, dark and spicy blend with lovely smooth texture and sweet smack of oak. Drink this year and next. 14% ref PW7341A £7.95 bottle £87 dozen* *Part of the Portuguese Offer, supplier supported discount. Save £8 per dozen, no further discount on 12 bottles. 35. ● OMG, Lisboa 2016 The 2015 was a big hit, and the 2016 hits the spot too! A warm hearted blend of local grapes refreshed by cooling onshore breezes: touriga franca, castelão, alfrocheiro and tinta roriz (tempranillo) combine to deliver rich dark fruit and smooth, harmonious texture. Drink this year and next. 14% ref PW7651 £7.95 bottle £85 dozen *Part of the Portuguese Offer, supplier supported discount. Save £10 per dozen, no further discount on 12 bottles. COMPANHIA AGRÍCOLA DO SANGUINHAL Diogo Pereira da Fonseca Reis Companhia Agrícola do Sanguinhal (CAS) was established in 1926 by Abel Pereira da Fonseca and is situated at Bombarral, to the north of Lisbon. Abel was something of a visionary; the first to plant vines without other crops alongside them in the vineyard, training the vines on wires and planting in plots of individual varieties on the sandy-clay soils rather than the mixed ‘field blends’ so common then and still to be found today. He also introduced a host of new varieties – in one plot he experimentally planted 30 different varieties to observe how they fared. Over the years the company, which remains in the hands of his family, has modernised; planting more local varieties alongside international varieties, investing in new equipment and technology, while maintaining the use of French and American oak barrels for some of the wines. 36. ● Cerejeiras Colheita Seleccionada, Lisboa 2017 The cooler coastal climate allows international interlopers cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot to ripen well, delivering structure and spice respectively, and

complementing the seductive, sweeter fruit profile of local aragonez (better known as Rioja’s staple grape, tempranillo) handsomely. Drink now to 2021. 13.5% ref PW7661 £7.95 bottle £95 dozen Low stock

FORTIFIED WINES

SETÚBAL The historic vineyards of Setúbal (demarcated for over 100 years) stretch 15km north, west and east of the port city of Setubal. Here the warm maritime climate is perfect for growing grapes. The DOC Moscatel de Setubal is reserved for sweet, fortified wines, based on the muscat grape (mainly muscat de Alexandria and moscatel roxo, a purple-pink mutation of the better known muscat blanc a petits grains). CASA ERMELINDA FREITAS Olivier Mouraud Founded in 1920 by Deonilde Freitas, the fourth generation, Leonor, who is in charge. It is Leonor who took the decision to stop selling their wines wholesale, and to produce and market their first red wine “Terras do Pó tinto.” She has also expanded the company’s vineyards from 60 hectares of vineyard made up of just two grape varieties, castelão and fernão pires to 440 hectares of vineyard planted to a much wider range of grape varieties, including trincadeira, touriga nacional, syrah, sauvignon blanc and moscatel de Setúbal amongst others. 37. F [8] Casa Ermelinda Freitas Moscatel de Setúbal A Wine Champ this year, this is an authentic Portuguese sweet treat, with the heady aroma of caramelised citrus pith and orange blossom, with honey, hazelnut and barley sugar on the palate. Keeps well in the fridge after opening, if you can resist it. Drink now to 2035. 17.5% ref PW7711 £9.50 bottle £114 dozen Fortified wines are those which have had spirit (most usually grape spirit) added to the wine to ensure (microbiological) stability, adding alcoholic strength and precluding any further fermentation. The stage at which the spirit is added has enormous implications for the style of fortified wine produced: the earlier it is added in the fermentation process the sweeter the resulting wine will be as is the case with this Moscatel.

MADEIRA An Atlantic Island belonging to Portugal, situated nearly 625 miles from the Portuguese mainland, Madeira is now famous for producing probably the most resilient and long-lived of all wines. The fortified wine we know as Madeira came about as a sort of happy accident: the island’s strategic position in the middle of the Atlantic made it a natural port of call for ships en route to Africa, Asia and South America. It was soon found that the barrels of wine which had been stored in the hulls of ships travelling across the tropics tasted better than those matured on land. When in the 1900s this practice became impracticable, many shippers turned to using estufas – rooms or tanks in which the wine could be artificially heated to simulate the rapid maturation brought about by a long sea journey across the equator. This is most commonly the case today, however some of the finest Madeiras continue to be aged on canteiros – oak casks placed under the eaves of lodges heated by the sun. HENRIQUES & HENRIQUES Anthony Field-Johnson with Joanna Delaforce ‘H&H’ is one of the most famous names on the Portuguese island of Madeira. Founded in 1850 by João Joachim Henriques, the company has a rich history and a profound knowledge of the art of making Madeira. Unlike many of the other producers on the island, Henriques & Henriques has significant holdings of its own vineyards. 38. F [5] Henriques and Henriques Sercial, 10 Years Old Another Wine Champ this year, this Sercial is drier and with livelier acidity than the bual and malmsey styles, this smooth, crisp and nutty amber glassful may be served chilled as an aperitif, or with cheese. 20% ref MA241 £20.00 50cl bottle £240 dozen

Madeira’s wines were traditionally named after the principal noble grape varieties grown on the island. The best examples should have a yellow-green tinge to the rim of the wine, and all share marked acidity. Sercial is the driest and can take on a slight almond character with time. Verdelho is medium-dry and with age can develop a smoky complexity. Bual is medium-rich in style, and is dark and raisiny. Malmsey is the sweetest, richest and most concentrated of the different styles.

39. F [6] Henriques and Henriques Bual, 15 Years Old Lusciously golden, this has a beguiling richness and hints of raisins, nuts and caramel with a concentrated finish. 20% ref MA221 £25.00 50cl bottle £300 dozen 40. F [8] Henriques and Henriques Malvasia, 10 Years Old Intense and deep-coloured malmsey, showing complex notes of fig and walnuts on the nose and more than a hint of caramel and coffee on the rich palate. 20% ref MA181 £19.50 50cl bottle £234 dozen 41. F [7] Henriques and Henriques Medium Rich Single Harvest

Madeira 1998 A special single-vintage bottling of Madeira made, unusually, from the red tinta negra mole grape variety. Complex aromas of honey, dried fruits, hazelnuts and vanilla with a lovely balance between the acidity and sweetness. The perfect treat for any remaining 21st birthdays this year. 19% ref MA451 £26.00 50cl bottle £312 dozen

DOURO The Douro Valley was demarcated in 1756 and is therefore one of the oldest demarcated wine regions in the world. Under the classification system the vineyards are graded from A to F, A being the best. Properties in the cooler and wetter Baixo Corgo to the west, and those in the hills close to the Douro’s boundary are considered to be less suitable for making Port and so are not permitted to fortify as much of their must to make Port as those vineyards which qualify for higher grades. SYMINGTON FAMILY ESTATES Richard Girling with Joao Vasconcelos The Symington family is the dominant force in the Port trade, operating numerous vineyards and wineries and owning several well-known brands of Port as well as, more recently, investing in table wines from the Douro. The Port houses they control include Graham’s, Dow’s, Warre’s, Smith Woodhouse, Gould Campbell, Quarles Harris and most recently Cockburn. The company was founded in 1882 by Andrew James Symington, a Scot who arrived in Oporto, initially working for Graham’s before becoming a partner in other major houses. With 26 quintas (estates), over 70% of the Port wine sold by Symington Brands is produced from grapes grown on their own properties.

42. F [4] Graham’s Blend No 5 White Port A new and different take on white port, designed with a refreshing ‘Portonic’ in mind, and dressed in a unique and beautiful designer-illustrated bottle. Have your ice, slice of lemon and fresh mint to hand, and share generously! Drink this year and next. 19% ref PN251 £23.50 bottle £282 dozen 43. F [7] Graham’s Tawny Port 20 Years Old Outstanding 20-year-old tawny, with typical Graham’s richness. Its soft texture combines with remarkable freshness, leading to a long, nutty finish. A 2019 Wine Champ. Drink this year and next. 20% ref PN161 £38.00 bottle £456 dozen Aged tawnies are generally made from wines which have been set aside in undeclared years which might have otherwise ended up as vintage port. They mature in oak casks for six or more years until they begin to take on a tawny colour and a soft, silky character. Most are bottled with an indication of age on the label. This is approximate as tawny ports are blended from wines produced from a number of vintages. Colheita ports are the exception, the product of a single vintage.

44. F [7] Graham’s Natura Reserve Port A brand new wine from the Symington family’s organically certified vineyards. Rich and smooth and ready to go, this wine does not need decanting, just a plate of cheese or comfortable sofa and willing friends. Drink this year and next. 20% ref PN261 £12.95 bottle £155 dozen 45. F [7] The Society’s Exhibition Crusted Port, Bottled 2013 This new blend was bottled by Symington Family Estates in 2013 and comprises three earlier vintages (2009, 2010, and 2011.) Intense in colour, voluptuous and rich, with the aromas of ripe black fruits – plums, blackberries – given greater complexity by the start of more herbal, woody notes, this offers velvety texture and great length of flavour. Drink now to 2030. 20% ref PN231 £17.00 bottle £204 dozen 46. F [8] Cockburn’s Quinta dos Canais 2010 Vigorous young single quinta Port from one of Cockburn’s finest vineyards. The high proportion of the touriga nacional grape brings floral perfume to this dense and satisfying wine, with luscious ripe berry fruit and supple tannins. Another 2019 Wine Champion. Drink now to 2030. 20% ref PT1911 £26.00 bottle £312 dozen

The first Port vintage about which there is any real certainty is the so-called ‘Waterloo Vintage’ of 1815, and by 1820 Vintage Port was being eagerly sought by the British wine trade. Contemporary advertisements from Christie’s indicate that the 1820s were bottled between three and five years after the vintage (compared to around 18 months today) and T.G. Shaw described the wines as having ‘plenty of crust and colour’. During the 19th century the practice of ‘declaring’ wines from exceptional years gained momentum with 1847, 1851, 1858, 1863 and 1868 all proving to be fine Port vintages. These wines came to be appreciated less for their youthful vigour and more for the character and complexity that they gained with age in bottle.

47. F [7] The Society’s Exhibition Vintage Port 1985 Ripe tannins meet rich, sweet fruit in this fine, rare, fully mature Vintage Port from the Smith Woodhouse stable. Drink now to 2025. 20% ref PT1871 £54.00 bottle £648 dozen