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Social Science
Government of Bangladesh
The Socio
of The Benarasi Workers
in Benarasi Palli: Present Scenario
and Future Prospect
15 Eskaton Garden
Study Funded By
Social Science Research Council
Ministry of Planning
Government of Bangladesh
December, 2008
The Socio-Economic Conditions
of The Benarasi Workers
in Benarasi Palli: Present Scenario
and Future Prospect
Democracywatch
15 Eskaton Garden Road, Ramna, Dhaka-1000
1
2
Published by:
Democracywatch
15 Eskaton Garden Road
Ramna
Dhaka-1000
First Edition 2014
Copy Right:
Democracywatch
Printed by: Democracywatch 15 Eskaton Garden Road Ramna Dhaka-1000
3
Preface
Democracywatch, a trust and a registered NGO was established in 1995 with the aim of strengthening
Democracy in Bangladesh. We ventured out to achieve this through creating awareness of democratic
process, values, human rights and good governance and thereby foster democratic culture. These are
to be implemented through education, training of youth especially women, concluding research,
increase capacity of democratic institutions and advocacy. Democracywatch trained around 25000
youths sofar in “Life skills” and “Lifestyle” course on basic skills for developing as a confident, aware
and competent human being ready to contribute as leaders towards ushering in a better society.
Democracywatch developed a special gender and governance training to add its leadership program.
Awareness of gender issues is one of the main themes of training the youths of tomorrow. So an
innovative training program called Gender and Governance Training Program (GGTP) and later
named as Gender and Governance Sensitization Program (GGSP) was introduced in 2005 funded by
CIDA. After two terms of funding by CIDA the Royal Danish Embassy, the Program for Asian Project
(PAP) gave us the necessary support. Young public university graduates both male and female came
forward to undertake this innovative and purposeful training program. Our rich pool of resource
persons includes renowned academics and researchers on gender, politics, sociology and law. These
immensely enriched trainings attracted well attributed women and men. The training period was only
four months. It was highly regarded as it incorporated some additional components which are not
readily found in other short courses i.e. research on gender issues and internship with reputable
development and economic organizations. Both of these gave the participants of the course practical
knowledge and hand on experience. This inculcated in many of the participants being well placed in
renowned international and national NGOs and also engaged in big corporate. We feel elated that the
course has been successful in creating female and male leaders in our society within such a short
time.
We are proud to present the research reports that each batch has produced. These researchers are
rather empirical with small sample size, as it had to be finished within the course period on a
shoestring budget. These studies need to have a sympathetic view by its readers. Nevertheless topics
selected often created a lot of interest among the stakeholders and academics when they were
presented by the students at our seminars. Hope this study is useful to some in their own work and in
giving an insight on women’s plight in our society.
To end I thank Mrs. Taherunnesa Abdullah, Magsaysay Award Winner, Prof. Salahuddin M.
Aminuzzaman, Prof. A.S.M Atiqur Rahman of Dhaka of Dhaka University, Mr. Saiful Islam our
Monitoring and Evaluation Team Leader and the gender unit for helping the students in completing
the reports of these researchers. The students would have been at a loss without their all out support.
I congratulate and thank all the participants for their hard work and willingness to learn about
importance of gender in all spheres of the society and contribute in achieving it.
Last but not the least my deepest gratitude to our donors Norad, CIDA, PAP and Royal Danish
Embassy for their support.
Taleya Rehman
Founder Executive Director
Democracywatch
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Table of Contents
Summary ................................................................................................................................................. 7
1. Introduction ...................................................................................................................................... 10
2. Background ....................................................................................................................................... 10
3. Rationality ......................................................................................................................................... 13
4. Objectives .......................................................................................................................................... 14
5. Definition of Concepts and Terms .................................................................................................... 14
6. Research Methodology ..................................................................................................................... 16
7. Limitations ......................................................................................................................................... 17
8. Study Findings ............................................................................................................................... 17
8.1 Non-participant Observations: ................................................................................................... 17
8.3. Social Condition ...................................................................................................................... 19
8.3.1. Education:................................................................................................................................. 19
8.3.2. Health: .................................................................................................................................. 21
8.3.3. Marriage: .............................................................................................................................. 23
8.3.4. Entertainment: ..................................................................................................................... 25
8.3.5. Festival: ................................................................................................................................ 26
8.4.1. Types of work: ..................................................................................................................... 26
8. 4.2. Income: ................................................................................................................................ 27
8.4.3. Reason for Continuing this Occupation ............................................................................... 28
8.4.4. Training: ............................................................................................................................... 29
8.5. Issues Related to Female Workers ..................................................................................... 31
8.6. Future Prospect ...................................................................................................................... 34
9. Problems Faced by the People Engaged in this Industry ..................................................... 34
10. Recommendations .................................................................................................................... 40
11. Conclusion ................................................................................................................................. 42
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References: ........................................................................................................................................... 44
Annexure 1 ............................................................................................................................................ 45
Annexure 2 ............................................................................................................................................ 60
Annexure3 ............................................................................................................................................. 62
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Acronyms
PM- Prime Minister
FGD- Focus Group Discussion
NGO- Non-Governmental Organization
BRAC
SEEP-Social and Economic Enhancement Program
CDC- Center For Development Communications
RADDA MCH CENTER- Radda Maternity and Child Health Center
DPT-Diphtheria, Whooping Cough, Tetanus
OGSB- Obstetric and Gynochology Society of Bangladesh
TBA- Traditional Birth Attendant
TMSS-Thengamara Mahila Shobuj Shongho
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Summary
Bangladesh has a rich and ancient tradition of fabric-based cottage industry. Muslin,
Jamdani, Benarasi, Khadi- these are few of the highly acclaimed handloom industries in this
country. Among them Benarasi is associated for bridal costume. Presently this industry is not
getting proper attention but it has a great demand in local and international market. Recently
it has attracted large number of consumers in our country as a result of campaigning of the
Boutique Houses marketing strategy for traditional style clothing which proved that the
Benarasi still has great appeal among people.
A number of serious problems are threatening the existence of the Benarasi workers. Many
of them are now abandoning the craftsmanship which they inherited from their forefathers.
The study on “The Socio-Economic Conditions of The Benarasi Workers in Benarasi Palli:
Present Scenario and Future Prospect” was undertaken by the Democracywatch with the
objective know the socio-economic condition of the Benarasi workers of Mirpur Benarasi
Palli.
Both the qualitative and quantitative approaches were used to conduct the study including
literature review, sample survey, Focus Group Discussion, Case Study and Non-Participant
Observation. Sample survey was carried out among Benarasi workers at Mirpur 10, 11 and
12 which now constitutes the Benarasi Palli. A total of 300 Benarasi workers were
purposively selected and interviewed.
Major findings of the study:
The living condition of the camp is fairly poor. The families live in one room house with their
children. The residence use public water facilities. WASA water supply is available free of
cost but it is available twice a day only which is being used for all purpose including drinking
by all the families. However, only a few families have their own bathroom. The community
latrines that they use are kept clean through a cleaner. They do not have gas facilities for
cooking. However, all the families own T.V., CD player etc for recreation
Although a large number of respondents are illiterate or semi-literate, most of them are
sending their children to schools. The families some time prevent their children to attend the
schools because of need for their assistance in the Benarasi work. As such there is high
amount of drop out of the children after primary level of education or non attendance during
peak season. More than half of the respondents prefer vocational training for their children
and one third of them favor general education..
8
The workers suffer from various work related health hazards such as pain in different parts
of the body (hand, waist, shoulder, neck, head and eye sore, weakness etc.) due to long
hours of working in a particular position. However, residence of the Benarasi Palli is
conscious about their general health. Most of them use modern medicine when they are
sick. The families have regular contact with the local MCH clinics. Babies are delivered by
trained TBAs and in case of risk pregnancy mothers are taken to the MCH clinics for
delivery. As such there is no maternal and child mortality during last one year. Majority of the
children are immunized.
Most of the marriages are arranged marriage which is considered to be more respectable for
the family. The child marriage among the girls is common in this community. The boys also
got married early. Mohrana or dower money is fixed during marriage but amount is not given
on the marriage day.
Only a few reported that they took or gave dowry which includes cash money, motorcycle,
expenditure for building a unit in the second floor of the house, fund to start business
including a grocery shop, travel and other cost for a job outside the country etc. However,
taking dowry in the name of gift is embedded in their culture. The bridegrooms’ family and
friends expect that the brides’ family will give as gift certain furniture, dress, watch, ring and
gold chain for the bridegroom, sets of new dress for the bride and dress for the immediate in-
laws. Depending on the financial condition of the bridegroom’s family they also expect
television, CD player, fridge etc. Amount of dowry also depend on gold ornament and
number of members accompanying Bridal Party (Bor Jatri). If the dowry is high, the bride
side demands for more gold jewelry and less number of bor jatri in the occasion. Although
the close relatives often share part of the cost of dowry or gifts this is definitely an economic
burden on the family.
Rate of divorce is very low which may be due to negative attitude towards divorce. However,
separation is more common than actual divorce. Also polygamy is common in the camp, but
the respondents feel hesitant to talk about this issue. Majority of the respondents said there
is no domestic violence in the area. However, they do not consider beating or slapping as
violence against women.
More than half of the respondents are weavers and 16% are entrepreneurs. Most of the
women are auxiliary workers engaged in Karchupi, embroidery, cutting thread etc. There is
less scope for women to work as entrepreneurs or weavers because the society considers
that it is a matter of dishonor for woman to work outside or work on the loom, women cannot
operate machines as operating loom is tough for women, lack of skill, pressure of household
work, physical weakness, low wages, etc. There are only four women entrepreneurs in the
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area who are active in their business. However, since the Benarasi business is a family
business, women in substantial number are engaged in Benarasi work including decision
making.
The Benarasi industry is facing a number of serious problems which needs urgent attention.
These are low wage, unhealthy work environment, problem of middlemen, seasonal
unemployment, keeping pace with the changing taste of the consumers, the apathy of
government to promote this industry, increased prices of raw materials etc The lack of a
settlement for Benarasi producers has been identified as the most persistent problem for the
community. There is a large variation of Benarasi products of the same category.
Consumers also complain about the deteriorating quality of the Benarasi sarees. The rising
cost of raw materials is forcing them to compromise with the quality of saree.
In general, economic condition of the Benarasi workers is not satisfactory. However, they
have lots of cultural aspect and they invest a lot in these festivals even curtailing their
primary needs. If they reduce these social costs and invest them in their essential
requirement it may contribute in improving their living standard.
Creating and sustaining a market for the Benarasi products overseas and instituting some
government incentives and initiatives to promote export have been highlighted by the
respondents and other stakeholders. There is tremendous potential for this industry in
Bangladesh if proper government attention was received. Quality Benarasi product from
Bangladesh has high demand outside the country, but exporting these products on a large
scale requires government support. To capture market for these products-domestic or
overseas, quality control and standardization are must.
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1. Introduction
Bangladesh has a rich and ancient tradition of fabric-based cottage industry. Muslin,
Jamdani, Benarasi, Khadi- these are few of the highly acclaimed handloom industries in this
country. These industries have been bringing name and fame for our country for a very long
time. Among them Benarasi was associated for bridal costume. Presently industry is not
getting proper attention but it has a great demand in local and international market. Recently
it has attracted large number of consumers in our country as a result of campaigning of the
Boutique Houses marketing strategy for traditional style clothing which proved that the
Benarasi still has great appeal among people. Our neighboring country is exporting Benarasi
products. Bangladesh also has potential to export Benarasi product. As such it is important
to know the present socio economic condition of the Benarasi workers and discover its future
potential.
The study on “The Socio-Economic Conditions of The Benarasi Workers in Benarasi Palli:
Present Scenario and Future Prospect” was undertaken by the Democracywatch with the
support of Social Science Research Council, Planning Commission, Ministry of Planning to
know the socio-economic condition of the Benarasi workers of Mirpur Benarasi Palli.
2. Background
The gorgeous and delicate piece of cloth which is known as Benarasi was not an indigenous
craft of Bangladesh. Its origin can be traced to a northern city in India which is called
Benaras. During the Mughal regime this industry flourished in the subcontinent.
By the 1930s Dhaka set up its own Benaras Silk Industry Centre in Becharam Dewry, in the
old town. Sarees were priced at Rs.150 and a bridal saree fetched a princely price of Rs.
400. The main market outlets were in Sadarghat market, Islampur of the old town and by the
1960s the posh newly built New Market near Nilkhet. One significant stimulus was in the
1940’s resulting from political changes, the movement for Independence from the British and
finally the desire for a separate homeland for Muslims. The result of these factors brought
about the migration of large populations from one region of India to another who packed up
their looms in 1946 and came with high hopes to Dhaka to start a new life. Their second and
third generation families are now residents in Mirpur.
According to the Bangladesh Handloom Board the migrant community set up the Benarasi
industry in Mirpur and Mohammadpur areas of Dhaka city in 1950. These two areas still
11
remain the hub of Benarasi producing activities in the country. However, the Benarasi
industry is no longer limited to the geographical area of Mirpur. Now the villagers in
Manikganj, Sirajganj, and Tangail etc are also producing Benarasi saris. Some of the
producers are now willingly shifting their looms to impoverished areas of North Bengal like
Rangpur and Dinajpur where the labor is cheap and abundant.
About 25,000 people are now involved in the Benarasi industry, where the number was one
lakh, two or three years back. The number of handlooms has been reduced to 5,000 now
from 20,000 in 2004. The number of outlets has also dropped to only 100 in Mirpur.
(Research finding of the Study on Production of Benarasi in Benarasi Palli: Prospect of
Developing Women Entrepreneurs).
The Benarasi loom which has been originally designed some hundred years back is
composed of wooden, bamboo and small metal parts. These components are set on the
earthen pit floor of the factory. The Benarasi workers still work with this age-old piece of
tool. The only change that has taken place here was the introduction of jacquard (design
card) after 1947.
The most commonly used thread for Benarasi saree, the Chinese silk, is finer in quality and
has got a smoother texture than our very own Rajshahi silk. India is being used as the
transit route for the import of Thai, Pakistani and Chinese silk. Some portion of these threads
is also smuggled in Bangladesh through border areas. Benarasi producers procure these
threads from the wholesale market at Chauk Bazar and the local market of Mirpur. (See
annex 2)
A number of serious problems are threatening the existence of the unsung laborers who go
through a tremendous procedure of physical labor and mental patience to produce a single
piece of Benarasi in one week. Many of them are now abandoning the craftsmanship which
they inherited from their forefathers. In this way an occupation based community is withering
away. One of the members of Benarasi Palli Shop Owners Association said that the only
factor that is still keeping Benarasi and Mirpuri Katan alive is that various fashion houses of
the city is still promoting them. They are our major customers.
The Benarasi industry in Bangladesh is still dependent on handloom while the Indian
Benarasi industry is power loom based. Newspaper reports claim that our local market is
flooded with low cost, low quality Indian Benarasi products (weaved in power looms) with a
design that suits the budget and taste of the customers of all levels of the society. Though
the introduction of this technology is itself a threat against the traditional handloom based
Benarasi production in India, in terms of export earning it gives Indian exporters an added
advantage. This technological advancement gives India comparatively lower production cost
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benefits which the Bangladeshi industry does not enjoy. Moreover, better quality silk is
becoming expensive day by day.
There are no publicity efforts to make the customers aware of the difference between
genuine hand woven Benarasi and power loom replicas. There is also the problem of lack of
awareness and understanding of the changing nature of taste of the customers. In this age
of globalization customers have the opportunity to procure the latest and trendy products
from any part of the world. Though as a fabric, Benarasi has its own appeal, the lack of
training and creative indigenous designing is also causing much problem for the industry.
Present State of Benarasi Industry in Bangladesh
The Benarasi workers of Dhaka city are mostly concentrated at the section No-10, No-11,
No-12 of Mirpur. According to the Benarasi Palli Owners Association at present there are
total 999 owners, 11000 weavers, 25 designers, 25 color masters, 3000 support staff
involved in this industry.
The work condition in this industry is also taking toll on the weavers and others associated
with the occupation. These benarsis are made in small rooms with no ventilation support or
proper lighting facilities. The work is hard, but the remuneration is low. So the craftsmen are
becoming far less interested in pursuing the occupation which their ancestors held dear to
their heart.
Recently government has been showing some concern for the small industries in the
country. On different occasions it has pledged to “…improve efficiency and productivity of
Bangladesh handloom Board. It also decided to organize training for weavers and others
concerned, provide micro credit to them and extend all other help to make the prices of
weaving products competitive and promote those at home and abroad.” (New Age, Vol 4,
Number 315, Sun, April 18, 2004/vol.4 PM invites big private investment in textiles and
promises all-out government help to local, foreign investors/BSS, Dhaka). Besides, the then
Textile and Jute minister Mr. Shajahan Siraj said that the government had been
implementing a project of taka 24 corer 42 lakh at Mirpur, Dhaka and another of over 2
corers at Ishwardi for establishing Benarasi Palli.
However there has been no apparent reflection of these high sounding words and promises
on the ailing Benarasi industry of Bangladesh. The price of raw materials is still soaring,
government has no marketing policy to export Benarasi abroad and the workers are simply
plunging into the black hole of poverty.
13
As mentioned by the Benarasi craftsmen, in 2006 Bangladesh Tant Board allocated Tk 45
lakh for 249 looms at nominal interest rate for distribution among the weavers. However, the
fund did not reach the genuine Benarasi craftsmen. The government’s initiative basically
benefited many non-craftsmen (internal migrants) who used the low-interest loan to set up
looms there.
There is no denying the fact that government on its part also faces problems like presence of
middlemen or the lengthy beaurocratic process of implementation in executing its stated
program. But if this situation continues it will be difficult to save this industry from ruin. Both
government and non government sectors need to work hand in hand to improve this gloomy
situation.
Lack of citizenship was one of the major problems faced by this community for which they
were deprived of many facilities. Recently, a positive step has been taken by the
Government. An organization called “Urdu Speaking People’s Youth Rehabilitation
Movement” filed a writ petition at High Court in November, 2007 demanding their voting
right. On May 18, 2008 the Court ordered the Election Commission that those born after
1972 should be enlisted as voters. Accordingly, 29,000 are enlisted as voters out of 71,000
residents of 29 camps of Mirpur. This means they have been accepted as citizen of the
country. As such they can claim all the rights as citizen of the country. This citizenship status
will solve many of the problems mentioned by the respondents during interview and FGD
such as opening bank accounts, admission of children etc.
3. Rationality
Benarasi is an industry where skill and knowledge is community base, the reduction of
craftsmen in the community will also blow the death sentence to the industry itself. The
reason is simple. They will die with their knowledge without the scope of disseminating it to
anyone outside the community because there is a lack of proper incentive to do so. So to
preserve this age old knowledge, this work of art, this symbol of tradition, steps should be
taken and they should be taken sooner than later.
Benarasi workers also happen to be one of the most disadvantaged people of our society.
Due to the stigma associated with their ethnic origin and the need to be concentrated in one
single area for their occupation, these people cannot move out of the camps they reside in.
Population in this community is increasing. But civic facilities like housing, water, sanitation,
education, health care are not increasing proportionately. Day by day they are facing
accommodation problem in these over crowded camps. Hygiene and sanitation condition is
equally alarming and the rate of literacy among the children and the tendency to drop out
also need to be taken care of. For these reasons, this research has been taken up to depict
the present socio-economic conditions of the Benarasi workers in Mirpur as well as
identifying and addressing their problems. It is about highlighting the plight of a socially and
economically marginalized community whose voice has been unheard for such a long time.
14
Another equally important reason for taking up this research is that the contributions of
women in the production of Benarasi are unnoticed and largely unappreciated. Women
constitute a very important segment of work force in the industry. Though they can not
become weaver and entrepreneur for physical and financial problems, they are engaged in
reeling bobbin, cutting loose thread and embedding beads and zari on Benarasi saree to
make it more attractive. Although Even a number of women work as entrepreneurs or want
to be one. So another reason for conducting this research is to understand and appreciate
the contribution of women in this industry and to find out the gender specific problems faced
by the women.
Last but not the least, it is hoped that this research will work as an important secondary
source of data for the future researchers who would like to conduct research on the same or
related topics.
4. Objectives
1. To know about present socio-economic condition of the Benarasi workers and if any
change has occurred in the condition for the last few years.
2. To know about their present financial condition.
3. To find out their work condition.
4. To know if the women workers face any gender discrimination in the industry.
5. To understand respondent’s own perception regarding the problems persisting in the
industry at present.
6. To understand respondent’s opinion about the measures that should be taken for the
development of the industry.
5. Definition of Concepts and Terms
Benarasi Palli- Benarasi Palli is the area where Benarasi saree is produced and sold. In this
study, section No-10, No-11, and No-12 of Mirpur (Pallabi) of Dhaka are defined as Benarasi
Palli where workers are mainly engaged in producing and marketing Benarasi saree.
Benarasi saree- Benarasi saree is a fabric made out of silk and zari (gold thread) which is
worn by women in the subcontinent especially women in India, Pakistan and Bangladesh.
Benarasi sarees are used mainly by affluent society during special occasions.
15
Benarasi Workers- There are various types of workers engaged in different stage of
Benarasi production such as: designer, weaver, thread processor and dyer, loom maker and
mechanic.
Charr or birni - Thin wire used to tighten threads.
Charka -hand spin or cycle wheel
Gulla or baw of natawa- Bamboo/wood spool.
Jacquard-cards perforated with holes for lifting needed threads
Karchupi- Karchupi is a special kind of intricate gold thread work, which is used to make
dress materials more attractive. It is the process of embedding beads, zari and other
decorative materials by means of a special needle as sharp as fish hooks.
Karga –pit
Katha or shirki -wood or bamboo flat instrument used to form floral patterns. Nowadays
these are made of plastic.
Khalli -iron rods rotated to tighten threads.
Khuta-side posts
Lappa -horizontal wooden rods
Makri -upper/roof suspended rods
Makku or dherki -five inch long flat shuttle piece of buffalo horn used to push threads left or
right as needed.
Phhana -bamboo read
Rooler -wood roller
Tana -steel plate
Turai / belun- roller-beam
Urdu speaking community- The people whose forefathers come from different states of
India, mostly from Bihar and whose main language is Urdu are defined as Urdu speaking
community. In this study, the people of Benarasi Palli at Mirpur are considered as Urdu
speaking community.
16
Socio economic condition- Age, marital status, level of education, occupation, wage,
occupation related health risk, working environment, total family income, family expenditure,
access to loan, savings, work related problem etc are taken as the indicator of socio
economic condition. It will also include their problem related to production such as raw
materials, and tools.
6. Research Methodology
6.1. Methods
Both the qualitative and quantitative approaches were used to conduct the study. A good
number of literatures on Benarasi workers and Urdu-speaking community were studied and
reviewed to get an overview of the studies conducted in this discipline. These literatures
were collected from both libraries and internet. Literature review has been incorporated in
the Background of the report.
Besides, two focus group discussions (FGDs) and seven Case Studies were conducted with
appropriate check lists. Non-participant Observations were also made by the members of the
research team to get an in-depth view about the socio-economic conditions of the Benarasi
workers. Supplementary information was collected from various local level organizations
and NGOs to validate the information received. Opinions of selected people associated with
marketing and promotion of Benarasi have also been incorporated in this study.
During March-April 2008 a sample survey was carried out among Benarasi workers at Mirpur
10, 11 and 12 which now constitutes the Benarasi Palli. A semi-structured questionnaire was
developed and finalized after pre-testing for sample survey. A total of 300 Benarasi workers
were purposively selected and interviewed. Details of the respondents given below:
Category of respondents
# of respondents
Male Female
Entrepreneurs 49 0
Designers 11 0
Weavers 168 0
Auxiliary workers 21 51
Total 249 51
17
6.2. Data Processing, Analysis and Presentation
Synthesize and analyze all data as inputs for designing a framework for analysis. Each of
the information have been documented and finally analyzed and synthesized to make them
meaningful. SPSS software was used for input, process and analysis data from sample
survey. For presentation, Microsoft Office (MS Word and Excel) were used.
7. Limitations
The researchers faced the following limitations while conducting the research:
• Respondents often felt reluctant to answer some questions which they regarded
as sensitive.
• Sometimes it was hard for the respondents to manage time to give in-depth
interviews.
• Some of the respondents were reluctant to give interview because of their
experience with previous research works in the area which, according to them,
bore no benefit for them.
• Frequent power failure disrupted data processing and preparation of report.
8. Study Findings
8.1 Non-participant Observations:
Some of the observations made by the researchers are:
• Majority of families of the respondents reside in a single small room house. Some
raised their beds so that others can sleep underneath. There is no privacy in such a
living arrangement. Some of them (migrant) live with their domestic pet such as goat
etc for security reason. This was supported by FGD findings where the respondents
complained that the accommodation facility is really poor in the camp. Increase in
the number of family members in a limited space makes it congested. Poverty even
forces them to sublet part of their small houses. A few well to do families have
extended their living space in to two storied building as they can not extend them as
there is no extra land.
18
• FGD findings show that some of the families use curtain in their main door for
privacy.
• The members of the families have to share community toilets. FGD findings show
that men and women use separate toilets in some camp but some use common toilet
also.
• Bathroom is separate from the toilet. Most of the houses have separate bathroom
within their living place or boundary.
• Each of the family has to pay Tk. 5 per month to the toilet cleaner that cleans the
community toilet.
• There is provision for public water facilities. The members have to stand in line to
collect water from tube wells. WASA water supply is available and free of cost. But it
is available twice a day only. FGD findings revealed that some solvent families have
tap water in their house.
• The families of this area generally use earthen oven using fire woods (khorir chula)
as they do not have gas facilities. Those who can afford use gas cylinder for cooking.
• The workplace is congested. There are not enough facilities of light and fresh air for
the workers.
• There is no space in between the looms. The weavers have to cross over the looms
to move from one place to another.
• Some of the families have loom within their house.
• Most of the families have Karchupi frames in their houses.
• All the families own T.V., CD player etc for recreation.
During FGD, the members present claimed that they have good relations with the
mainstream Bangladeshi. They socialize with them and do not face any kind of
discrimination or problem from the mainstream community. The respondents said that some
members of the community do move away from the camps to live outside. But not too many
people can afford it. Those who move outside do keep in touch with the camps since they
continue with their Benarasi related jobs and business here. Some respondents during the
FGD mentioned that young generation does not want to live here because they are
uncomfortable with the environment of this area.
8.2. Demographic Profile of the Respondents
Out of 300 respondents interviewed majority (83%) are male.
19
Gender of the Respondents (Figure: 1)
Age of the respondents varies between 11 and 64: among male respondents 18 to 64 and
female respondents 11 to 50. 47% of the respondents are in the age group 25-34 which is
followed by 15-24 (26%) and 35 to 44 years (17%). Nearly half of the female respondents
are in the age group 15 to 24. 63% of the respondents are married. All the respondents are
Muslim (Sunni).
Around two-third (62%) of the respondents belong to nuclear family and rest to joint and
extended family (Annex 1). Three-fourth (75%) cases family size ranges from 4 to 9 and
15% have family members ranging 1 to 3. Only one respondent living in joint family has 25
family members.
8.3. Social Condition
8.3.1. Education:
Eighty eight percent are 15 years and above. Among them 47% are illiterate. Since this is
urban population corresponding national figure is 43% (Population Census 2001). Female
illiteracy rate is 35% as against national figure of 43%. This shows that although over all
illiteracy rate is slightly higher than the national average, female illiteracy rate is lower than
the national average. Among the illiterate adults 82% are in the age group of 25 years and
above.
Gender
Female
17%
Male
83%
20
State of Education (Figure: 2)
28% female have completed primary level education as against 29% male respondents and
17% female completed SSC level as against 19% male. This shows that there is not much
difference in male and female education level. FGD findings show that the Benarasi
community does not discriminate among boys and girls regarding education. In fact they
have shown much interest for education of their children. This may be because of:
1. They are becoming aware of the benefits of education.
2. Their children do not want to continue their parents business and go outside for work.
Outside job market is not available without education.
3. Their children are now meeting mainstream Bengali children in schools and colleges.
So they understand the importance of education as education is a big medium for
them to communicate with general people.
Among the adult respondents 49% are illiterate as against national average of 36% (Census
2001) Sixty seven percent of the respondents are interested to study in night school (Annex
1.E). FGD findings show that, even some fairly well off elderly respondents have private
tutors who teach them at their home. This shows that there is a demand for Adult Education
Program.
05
1015
2025303540455055606570
Illite
rate
Primar
ySS
CHSC
Gra
duate
Mas
ters
Education
Male Female
21
Although a large number of respondents are illiterate or semi-literate, most of them are
sending their children to schools. Eighty eight percent of the families of the respondents
send their school going children (1-3 children) to schools More than half (52%) of the
respondents send their children to non-government schools including NGO managed
schools and 40% send their children to government schools. 4% respondents send the
children to madrasa and rest study at home attended by house tutors .
FGD findings also revealed that the respondents send their children to local NGO run
schools such as BRAC, SEEP, CDC (Run by Al-Falah), Plan International because these
schools are also located close to their vicinity and these schools provide books, exercise
copy up to class five. Among these schools CDC take a small amount of monthly fee in the
savings accounts of the disadvantaged student to help them continue their secondary level
education. The relative distance of government schools makes it inconvenient for the parent
to send their children to those schools. The respondents informed that most of the children
drop out after class five. There is also two Open University for the students of this area. Only
2%-3% student go to Vocational school namely German Technical School and a NGO run
school at Mirpur-10 to learn tailoring, mobile servicing etc.
FGD findings also report that the school going children assist in the family business. They
help their parents in works like karchupi or other tasks. The families some time prevent their
children to attend the schools because of need for their assistance in the Benarasi work. As
such there is high amount of drop out of the children after primary level of education or non
attendance during peak season. However, the respondents unanimously said that they do
not want their children to join the Benarasi Industry as future profession. The reason is plain
and simple. This profession does not offer sufficient income to live a decent life. The
respondents don’t want their children to suffer the same fate. That might be one of the
reasons for them to send their children to schools.
More than half (52%) of the respondents prefer vocational training for their children. One
third (31%) of the respondents favor general education and 16% prefer religious education
(Annex 1.F).
8.3.2. Health:
The workers suffer from various work related health hazards such as pain in different parts
of the body (hand, waist, shoulder, neck, head and eye sore, weakness etc.) due to long
hours of working in a particular position. There is no space in between the looms. 84%
mentioned that they get ill due to excessive hard work, lack of proper nutritious diet, lack of
knowledge about health care etc.
22
Ninety two percent of the respondents said that they have immunized their babies. National
figure shows that national child immunization rate is 81%. FGD findings show that they can
mention the names of the vaccinations such as DPT, Polio, Measles etc. Record (January to
December 2007) from Radda MCH Center show that children generally suffer from Cough
and cold, Influenza, Pneumonia, Diarrhoea and Dysentery, Skin disease, Anemia and
Malnutrition. Mothers usually suffer from Anemia and Peptic Ulcer.
Eighty four percent of the respondents use modern medicine when they are sick. In addition,
some use other forms of medications such as homeopathy (2%), Unani (Hakimi) (1%). Only
8% mentioned that they use Jharfuk (exorcism). It is interesting to note that one third of the
respondents said that children are born in the private clinics/government hospitals/health
centers. 53% percent said that children are born at home attended by trained midwife. A
substantial number of traditional midwives from the area were trained by Radda MCH
(Maternity and Child Health) Center. As part of the training these midwives were placed in
Azimpur Maternity Center and OGSB (Obstetric and Gynochology Society of Bangladesh)
Maternity Center as interns. Besides skill this internship has given them the opportunity to
acquaint themselves with services and professionals of these MCH Centers. These TBAs
(traditional birth attendant) have easy access to the health professionals and services when
they take any women there with risk pregnancy. However, 14% said that in case of
complexity the pregnant mothers are taken to the hospitals. (Annex 1.K)
FGD findings show that this community has regular contact with the Radda MCH Center and
Marie Stopes for MCH services and during last one year there were no maternal or child
death. National figure shows that maternal mortality ratio is 570 per 1, 00,000 live birth and
infant mortality rate 54 per 1000 live birth in Bangladesh. In addition, health education
program conducted by the field staff of Radda MCH Center might have made the community
more health conscious. They usually go to private hospitals for medical treatments because
they do not prefer government hospitals because of maltreatment. Respondents replied that
even in the government hospitals they have to buy their own medicine. So it is better to go to
the private hospitals where they get better services.
FGD findings also show that WASA water is being used for all purpose including drinking by
all the families. However, only a few families have their own bathroom. Most of the families
use community latrines. But they mentioned that they keep their latrine clean through a
cleaner.
This shows that in general the people in the Benarasi Palli are not only conscious about
mother and child health but also conscious about general health.
23
8.3.3. Marriage:
Seventy eight percent male respondents got married at the age ranging from 18 to 26 years.
Fifty eight percent of the married female respondents got married at the age of 12 to 17 out
of which 71% got married at the age of 12 to 14. This shows that child marriage among the
girls is common in this community. The boys also got married early. (Annex1.d)
Out of total married respondents only 16% respondents reported that they took or gave
dowry. Demand for dowry includes cash money, motorcycle, expenditure for building a unit
in the second floor of the house, fund to start business including a grocery shop, travel and
other cost for a job outside the country etc. However, FGD findings revealed that giving or
taking dowry is a common practice in the community although they call it gift which is
embedded in their culture. The bridegrooms’ family (relatives, friends and neighbors also
instigate) expect that the brides’ family will give as gift furniture (at least bed with beddings,
wardrobe, showcase etc.) dress, watch, ring and gold chain for the bridegroom, five sets of
new dress for the bride and dress for the immediate in-laws. Based on the financial condition
of the bridegroom’s family they also expect television, CD player, fridge etc. Amount of
dowry also depend on gold ornament and number of members accompanying Bridal Party
(Bor Jatri). If the dowry is high, the bride side demands for more gold jewelry and less
number of bor jatri in the occasion. Although the close relatives often share the cost of
dowry or gifts this is definitely an economic burden on the family.
Respondents’ Marriage Age (Figure: 3)
The respondents reported that amount of mohrana fixed during their marriage varies from
Tk. 400 to Tk. 3, 50,000. A little more than one third of the respondents who are relatively
young reported that their mohrana varies from Tk.50, 000 to Tk. 1, 50,000. During FGD,
participants reported that older generation had less amount of mohrana than younger
generation. However, the total amount is not given to the bride on marriage day.
Respondents said that those who can afford it, they pay the full amount of money on the day
of marriage. FGD findings show that there is no relation between amount of Mohrana and
income levels of the family.
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
110
120
130
age 5 to 14
years
age 15 to 24
years
age 25 to 34
years
age 35 to 44
years
age 45 to 54
years
age 55 to 64
years
Marriage Age
Female Male
24
Most of the marriages are arranged marriage which is considered to be more respectable for
the family. In arrange marriages generally a negotiator (Ghatak: Either professional or
relatives, friend, neighbors) work as intermediary agent to negotiate marriage contracts.
Even if the boy or girl selects their partners, family comes forward and arranges the marriage
to make it appear like arranged marriage.
In selection of groom priority is given on job security and income (19%) which is followed by
behavior and character especially not drug addicted (14%). Some of them mentioned about
family status (7%) and education (6%) as desired qualities of a groom. Economic condition
of the family, good look or age does not get much preference.
In selecting bride, qualities such as skill in household work including cooking (10%) and
character, behavior (15%) is given preference. This is followed by beauty including long hair,
feet (there is a belief that bride with a flat feet is more patient and adjustable, where as the
girl with a little bit high hill (Khuro pa) is generally impatient), education and good family
connection. Economic condition of bride’s family, ability to give dowry, religious education
and age of the girl are not being considered much.
Marriage expenses vary from Tk.20, 000 to Tk. 1, 00,000.00 and above. Twenty seven
percent of the respondent’s expenditure during marriage was 1, 00, 000 and above. Their
marriage expenditure is relatively higher than their income. Cost for marriage was less for
the older generation because of lower cost of living. However, even among the older
generation marriage expenses were higher for relatively well to do families. Relatives and
community people often share the marriage expenses. This shows that family bondage and
community feelings are very strong.
Marriage ceremonies include Panchini (engagement), Lagan (holdi) ceremony, marriage
reception arranged by the bride’s family, marriage reception (walima) arranged by the
groom’s family, Feruni (returns from girl’s parents house).
During Panchini they bring with them dress for the bride including pink bridal dopatta (a vail
over the dress), gold ring, handkerchief, flower garland and sweets. The girl’s family initially
serves Sharbat (drink made of milk, sugar, cardamom, pistachio, saffron, rosewater etc).
After drinking, the guest is expected to put some money in the empty glass. The Guests are
served with dinner. Lagan (Holdi) Ceremony was held mainly in the bride’s house. The bride
along with young unmarried girls of the family and friends eats boiled fragrant rice and card
served in a big plate. Common belief is that this will expedite marriage of these young
unmarried girls. Benarasi is preferred as wedding sari by the bride. All marriages are
registered by the Kazi (marriage register) of the locality. On arrival to bride’s house after
Walima reception the groom is served with rice pudding (Khir). This is another occasion
25
when the groom take this opportunity to request more gifts before taking the rice pudding
(usually gifts to be asked and given is settled before hand via the Ghatak).
Rate of divorce is very low which may be due to negative attitude towards divorce.
Respondents reported in the FGD that separation is more common than actual divorce. It is
also observed that polygamy is common in the camp, but the respondents feel cautious to
talk about this issue.
Majority (76%) of the respondents said there is no domestic violence in the area. Among
24% who reported about domestic violence, around one third (31%) of the respondents
reported beating and verbal abuse as violence especially for dowry. Other incidents reported
are altercation, family dispute due to economic crisis, clash due to drug abused husband etc
which some time ends up in wife beating. During FGD some respondents denied any
knowledge of the occurrence of domestic violence in the community. They do not consider
beating or slapping as violence against women. Women of this community contribute
economically in their family so in case of any disagreement they retort. However, a few of
the participants did not agree with the others. One of them said that “if you come in the
morning you will hear screaming coming from different households”.
8.3.4. Entertainment:
Fifty five percent of the respondents reported that they spend their off time watching
television, going out with family, spending time with family at home, resting etc. 15%
respondents spend their time listening to radio/tape recorder. Eleven percent of the
respondent’s entertainment is gossiping. Recently annual family picnic has been added as
entertainment. (See annex 1.J)
Mode of Entertainment (Figure: 4)
14 .7%
54 .7%
11%10% 9.7%
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
4550
55
60
1
Entertainment
Audio (Radio ,
Cassette)
TV
gossiping
others
never take part in any
kind of entertainment
26
8.3.5. Festival:
Religious festivals such as Eid, Moharram, Shab-E-Barat, Shab-E-Meraj, Shab-E-Qadar etc
are being observed by the respondents. In addition, they also observe Eid-A-Miladunnabi,
Morga Fateha (Fateha Yajdaham), Akheri Budh (Akheri Chaha Shomba), Kawali (traditional
Urdu song) performed in different occasions at Majar of Khaja Moinuddin Chisti situated in
the area. The FGD participants mentioned that Mohorrom is the only occasion where Shia
sect of the community performs different rituals. The respondents present at the FGD were
Sunni but they also celebrated Mohorrom in a different manner, more for fun than as
religious rituals.
Social ceremonies on the occasion of wedding, birthday, Akika (ceremony of naming a new-
born Muslim child), circumcision etc are also celebrated by the respondents. 80% of the
respondents reported that they regularly participate in all these festivals.
8.4. Economic Conditions
8.4.1. Types of work:
Fifty six percent of the respondents of the survey are weavers and 16% entrepreneurs. Only
3% are designers. All these professionals are male. But FGD findings revealed that there are
4 women entrepreneurs in the area who are active in their business.
FGD findings also show that the most of the entrepreneurs do not get much time to be
directly involved in the production of Benarasi. They are mostly busy collecting raw materials
or supervising workers. They claimed that they have to work 12-14 hours a day. They
complained that due to lack of capital, they can not buy enough raw materials needed to
meet the demand for required number of Benarasi sarees and other materials. They also
need capital to store spare parts for machines. As such they have to make several trips to
buy raw materials and/or spare parts, which is a waste of time and cost more money.
Among the auxiliary workers two third (64%) are women. They are engaged in thread
cutting, dying and Karchupi work. However, FGD findings indicates that since the Benarasi
business is a family business women in substantial number are engaged Benarasi work
including decision making.
27
Type of Jobs (Figure: 5)
8. 4.2. Income:
The table below shows family income of the different category of workers. The average
weekly income of the designers is highest i.e. Tk.850.00. Average weekly income of
entrepreneurs is Tk.634.00 and weekly earning of most (96%) of the weavers is Tk.581.00.
There is not much difference in the weekly income level of the auxiliary staff which is
average Tk.520.00. 50% respondents mentioned that besides them there are 2-3 other
earning members who are engaged in earning activities other than Benarasi. 30%
respondents mentioned that she or he is the only earning person and engaged in Benarasi
production. Only a few of the respondents have reported higher level of income probably
because of higher number of earning members.
Average Weekly Income
No. of
Respondents
Average
Weekly
Income
No. of
Respondents
Average
Weekly
Income
Entrepreneurs 47 634 1 2500
Designer 09 850 0 0
Weaver 157 581 6 11833
Support Staff
Others
74 520 6 3240
FGD findings show that the respondents were unable to give any accurate or even
approximate information about their monthly income or they may not want to disclose. They
Type of Jobs
Entrepreneur
16%
Designer
4%
Weaver
56%
Support Stuff
19%
Others
5%
28
said even one or two years back they used to keep regular track record of their income. But
recently things have changed for worse. Now the whole community is going through a phase
of economic hardship. FGD findings with women group indicate that women get less wages
than men for same kind of work.
Nearly three fourth (72%) of the respondents reported that their level of economic solvency
is not so well (often need to borrow money). 28% respondents mentioned that they are
economically more or less solvent.
The respondents borrow money for investment in the business and/or take consumption loan
to meet family expenses. They take loan from various sources such as NGOs (ASA, BRAC,
SEEP, Shakti, Urban etc.), Bangladesh Tant Board, Krishi Bank etc.
They also borrow from their relatives, friends, neighbors and shop-owners. Moreover, they
have their individual cooperative society called Lottery Society. Sixty seven percent of the
respondents said that they have to payback borrowed money with interest. Among them
79% borrow money with fixed rate of interest. (Fixed by money lender) and 8% pay
compound interest.(Annex 1) Others borrow money on a lump sum interest basis such as on
a loan capital of Tk.10, 000, after one year/one season the loanee had to pay back Tk. 5,000
in addition to loan capital of Tk.10, 000.
FGD reveals similar findings that entrepreneurs usually borrow money from relatives or
friends. Those who borrow from NGOs like ASA or SEEP have to pay high interest on the
borrowed money. Respondents claimed that they have to pay 15% interests for the money
borrowed from these NGOs. This high interest rate actually raises their production cost
which ultimately increases the price of the sarees.
Around one fourth (24%) of the respondents reported that they have no savings/they cannot
save money. Among the rest twenty eight percent reported that they save their money in the
co-operative society. Other options are bank (22%), at home (21%), at different NGOs (27%)
such as ASA, BRAC etc.
8.4.3. Reason for Continuing this Occupation
More than three fourth (76%) of the respondents had a number (5 to 24) of years of work
experience on different areas of Benarasi productions.
Thirty one percent reported that they chose this profession since they do not have any other
skills. 27% of the respondents said that they are continuing with this profession since they do
29
not have any other options. Other responses include; economic condition was good when
they joined the profession and they are still hoping that condition will improve, other work
requires more labor, advantage of combining economic work with household work or working
within the housing area, opportunity to learn and work Karchupi work during leisure time and
earn additional income.
FGD findings show that respondents have deep passion for their profession but at the same
time expressed their grievances as day by day it is becoming difficult to hold on to this age
old craftsmanship. They have little incentive to carry on this profession. They are ready to
change their profession if they find any better alternative which would provide sufficient
income to improve their standard of living.
8.4.4. Training:
Seventy six percent of the respondents have no institutional training related to their job. 58%
reported that they need training. A little more than two third (64%) of the respondents opined
that, if necessary training programs are imparted, they will be able to produce other products
like scarf, wall-mat, three-piece for Shalwar Kamiz, bed-cover, pillow cover, cushion cover,
purse etc.
Need for Training (Figure: 6)
FGD findings show that the participants want to have training in design, marketing and
entrepreneurship rather than just on how to improve the skill in weaving, dying, karchupi
work etc.
Sixty percent of the respondents said that they work 10-12 hours a day which of course
varies according to demand of the product.
Training
Yes
24%
No
76%
30
Case 1:
Mohammad Nadim (32) is an inhabitant of Mirpur Muslim Camp. He passed HSC and
enrolled for a BA degree, but could not continue due to financial problem. He was married at
the age of 25 and has one son who is studying in a local kindergarten school. He works as a
designer. Initially he learnt the skill of designing from other designers of the Camp. In
Bangladesh no training facility is available for the designers. Nadim took training from a
person who came from Banaras (India) to visit his relative. Later on Nadim went to India with
this person and took training over there. In India, there is high investment on training and
continuous improvement of designs. He finds infiltration of illegal Indian product as a major
challenge to the local industry and hence he wants increased government surveillance and
attention on the issue. He also suggested that more media coverage for promoting the
product of Mirpur Benarasi Palli is required to boost up this handicraft industry.
Fifty six percent of the respondents get their payment on piece work basis. 39% of the
respondents reported that they get their wages on weekly basis. Workers work for six days a
week from Saturday to Thursday and get their wages on Friday. More than three fourth
(77%) of the respondents reported that they get their wages on time. 92% of the
respondents reported that their current wage is not sufficient for them.
FGD findings show that they get their wage on time but they get irregular work order from
the shop owner. Women get fewer wages than men for same piece of work. Designers work
on contract basis, paid on the basis of quality and demand for the design. Generally they
earn more income.
Seventy nine percent of the respondents reported that the pressure of work is not same all
through the year. During the occasion of Eid, Wedding, Durga Puja, Moharram etc their work
pressure is more and after these occasions and during rainy season they have less work.
About three fourth (74%) of the respondents said that in case of any damage in the products
they have to bear the expense. 12% said that both owner and worker jointly share the loss.
Only 14% reported that the owners bear the damage expense.
31
Nature of compensation for damage (Figure: 7)
Fifty three percent said that worker-owner relationship is good. 46% of the respondents said
worker-owner relationship is moderate.
A little more than half (51%) of the respondents among the 300 are not a member of any
association for different reasons. 28% of the respondents are members of different
association such as SEEP, Shakti, TMSS, SAVE, ASA, Owner’s Association, Tanti Shamity,
Lottery Shamity, Bihari Shamity etc. 21% said they have no organization, association or
cooperative society around the community.
Seventy percent of the respondents are not involved in any other job except Benarasi
production. Rests are involved in other jobs such as Karchupi work (not on Benarasi),
handicraft, business, driving, working as cook (9%), mason (9%), furniture maker (9%) etc.
FGD respondents said that they do not face extortion or Chanda baji or rent seeking
problems. However, they said that since the show room owners have the monopoly for
marketing the products, they fix low purchase rate of the sarees from the producers and sale
at a much higher prices.
8.5. Issues Related to Female Workers
The reason behind less scope for women to work as entrepreneurs or weavers are: the
society considers that it is a matter of dishonor for woman to work outside or work on the
Nature of compensation for damage
Entrepreneur/
ow ner
14%
Worker (self)
74%
Both
12%
32
loom, male members get irritated, women cannot operate machines as operating loom is
hard work it is tough for women, lack of skill, pressure of household work, physical
weakness, low wages, etc. Forty six percent of the respondents reported that their wage is
lower than that of the male workers.
Ninety six percent of the female respondents do not face any resistance from the family or
community for the work they do relate to Benarasi. 42% of the respondents reported that
their work load was not reduced during pregnancy. (Annex 1)
As mentioned earlier, women are mostly involved in Benarasi related auxiliary activities.
There are only a few women entrepreneurs in this community.
Case Studies show that in both the cases family members especially husbands are providing
not only moral support but also different kinds of business support to these women in order
to establish themselves as reasonably successful entrepreneurs. They are confident enough
even to go for procurement of raw materials and marketing of the products in case husband
is unable to support.
FGD findings reveal that women’s economic involvement to Benarasi is familiar to their
community. Women and children do the work (Karchupi, embroidery, cutting thread etc) in
their home; one room house, small, narrow and congested. It is difficult for the family
members to move around. Their work is also hampered due to insufficient light, particularly
during cloudy weather. In some cases water enters the houses during rainy season when
rain water submerges the area.
Most of them mentioned that, they were engaged in this profession to support their family.
Some of them are the main earning members of the family, as they do not have any adult
male earning member or their male members are not capable of supporting the family.
Women generally work 5/6 hours daily besides household works. Sometimes they have to
work 8-9 hours per day especially during pick business season. In some emergency cases
they work even at night. Their children often help them in their work. In some cases the male
members of the family help them in household work when they are busy in Karchupi work.
33
Case 3:
Nurjahan, wife of Mohammad Nasim both have separate identity as entrepreneurs. Nurjahan, mostly known as Malo apa has started her own business in the year 2002. Before that she assisted her husband in the business. She has 4 children, two girls and two boys and all of them are students. She lived in a one storied building (paka house), has a bed made of rot iron, wardrobe, fridge, television, showcase etc. She has electricity in her house. She also has separate kitchen and bathroom in the house which is covered with curtain. They use common toilet outside the house. She and her husband had built a banker over the bed where the girls sleep at night and in the day they use this space for Karchupi work.
Nurjahan has started her business with capital from her savings and bought two looms. Later she took tk. 5,000 loan from Bangladesh Krishi Bank and bought another two looms. She has appointed eight weavers to work for her. She mentioned that in a week 3/4 sari can be made through one loom. She pays a wage of tk.300 to each weaver per week. She bought designs from the design master cost of which varies from tk.150 to tk. 5,000. Finished products then taken to the showroom owners for sale. Nurjahan mentioned that showroom owners give them a profit of tk.50 per sari. She reported that showroom owners do not want to give more than tk. 50.
She explained that generally her husband buy raw materials from the local market but if needed she can go and buy raw materials too. She reported that at a time they buy threads for 10 saris. Per kg thread costs tk. 180. They used to buy pure silk threads before which now costs tk.3, 000. That’s why they buy Chinese (Polyester) threads rather than silk threads. They call it Dengu Tana.
Regular servicing of the looms is generally done by the weavers, but Nurjahan and her family participate in it on the day of Fateha (A religious rituals). She also earns tk 200 per day from Karchupi work. Her children help her in the Karchupi work. She can save some money after household expenditure, children’s education expense and paying her employees. She wants to extend her business but due to shortage of place she can not do it.
Case 2:
Among the entrepreneurs of Mirpur Benarasi Palli Guria is one of the female entrepreneurs in the business. Twenty five years old Guria is married with one girl child of 3 n half yr. She joined this business independently ten years ago, but is in this profession from childhood as her entire family is involved in this business and presently they are helping her.
She owned two Benarasi looms, one is in her house and the other is rented outside the house. She gets tk. 400 from that loom. She has started the business with the loan taken from SEEP. She had no capital besides this loan of tk. 5,000, which she has to pay tk. 270 per week. She repaid the loan in one year. She mentioned that she want to extend her business.
Her brother in law assists her in buying raw materials, collect rent from loom user. Although she has mobility to go outside for raw material shopping, but she usually feel reluctant to go for raw material shopping as she has a daughter of 3yr at home.
She preserves raw materials at her home, but she mentioned that she does not have to keep this thing for more than one week. Both Guria and her brother in law mentioned that their business was better during Ershad (Ex-President) regime, but currently their business is not well.
Guria’s monthly income is tk. 4,500 (app.) as she get loom rent tk. 400, tk. 50 per sari and tk.10 per saree for karchupi work. She mentioned that in one week one to two saris can be produced from one tant. She also reported that she and her mother can do Karchupi on 5/6 sari in a day. She can save money after all her expenses. She saves her money in their local Lottery Shamity.
When asked about problem, she mentioned that the shop-owners do not want to share profit. They buy saris only if it has good color and design. She also mentioned that all the shop-owner follow the same policy when it comes to buy sari from them. The entrepreneurs and weavers do not have the unity like the shop owner that’s why they can not fight for their rights.
She recommends that if Benarasi sari could be exported, the demand of Benarasi will increase with demand.
34
Women embed beads, zari, other decorative materials not only on Benarasi, but on cotton
and georgette sarees. The current wage rate of the female workers is TK. 80 per saree (who
work part time in addition to household work). Due to the declining demand of Benarasi their
wage rate has declined from Tk. 200 to Tk. 80 per sari. Some female workers are the main
earning members of the family who work full time. They get Tk. 160 per day for working on
two sarees. They also mentioned that if they have capital to buy raw materials themselves,
they can earn more. (Tk.150 instead of Tk.80)
The female workers generally save money in co-operative society like ASA or SEEP, they
take loan with 15% interest rate against their savings and invest the loan in Karchupi work.
They want to have low interest rate. A few of them invest the savings in insurance. Some of
them use their money on their children’s education. They also mentioned that if they have
capital to buy raw materials themselves, they can earn more. (Tk.150 instead of Tk.80). Most
of the respondents wish to become entrepreneur if they get necessary support.
FGD with women reveals same findings regarding health, education, festivals, marriage and
government support as mentioned in the previous sections.
8.6. Future Prospect
More than half (54%) of the respondents wish to continue with this profession in the future if
the working condition including reasonable price of the raw materials and procurement
process, marketing, scope for training, policy to stop import of Benarasi from neighboring
countries and promotion of export of local products to other countries etc. improves. (Annex
1.b) Rest of the respondents are more or less not interested due to low wage, increase
expense of raw materials, hard work (Benarasi work is much laborious than other work),
declining business etc. If there is opportunity, 29% of them want to go for business, 22%
respondents wants to undertake professional work or in other cottage industry depending on
if they get reasonably higher wages.
9. Problems Faced by the People Engaged in this Industry
As mentioned by the respondents during survey the Benarasi industry seems to be plagued
with a number of serious problems which needs urgent attention. Owners, weavers,
supporting stuff, designer- all have a story to tell about the particular problems they face.
Following are the problems identified by them:
1. Low wage has been identified as the single biggest problem faced by the weavers
and auxiliary workers.
35
2. Unhealthy work environment is another issue about which the workers in general are
very dissatisfied. There is not sufficient ventilation or lighting facilities for the workers
which affects on the health of the workers who have to work for long hours. During
pick season weavers have to work on an average 12 hours a day, 6 days a week.
Weavers have to work in small congested rooms.
3. Some of the respondents have complained that the work itself is very hard. Operating
a handloom requires strength and physically it is very exhaustive task.
4. Owner-worker relationship is also not very pleasant. Some of the workers have even
accused the owners of not paying fare wages. Owners sell their product at a much
higher price. Workers said that only the entrepreneurs and the shop owners enjoy
lion share of the profit from the business. The workers hard toil doesn’t ensure good
remuneration.
5. There is a classic problem of middlemen. These middlemen deprive the weavers
from their due share of the profit. Those in the lower chain of the production activity
of their due share of the profit. They buy the products at a much lower price from
the weavers and/or entrepreneurs and sell them to the shop owners for the products
6. Some of the respondents stated that work opportunity for them is not the same all
over the year. Sometimes they have to go without any work for certain periods. This
lack of guarantee of an income earning option is another problem.
7. Workers don’t even have a trade union or co-operative society of their own. As a
result there is no authority which can raise its voice against the injustices done to
workers on their behalf. It also greatly diminishes their bargaining capacity regarding
price fixation of the product, wage or working hour.
8. The respondents are concerned about lack of variation in design. They said that the
taste of customers change over time but the Benarasi industry in Mirpur has failed to
keep pace with the change. Also fashion of the day is Karchupi work on Georgette
sari. As such Benarasi sari does not have that much demand to the customers.
Some others said that these days Benarasi sari is losing market to the more popular
Katan and cotton sarees of Tangail due to cheaper price.
9. Respondents have also grievances about the apathy of government to promote this
industry. According to them government support regarding Benarasi production is
very limited. The number of artisans is also reducing day by day creating problem of
skilled labor shortage.
10. The increasing prices (yearn price shot up to Tk. 28,00 to Tk. 32,00 per kilogram
from Tk. 16,00) of raw materials are making the Benarasi product expensive.
11. The availability of cheap Indian Benarasi Saris with better design in the market. They
complained that the show room owners and customers prefer the novel design and
less costly Indian products. According to them these Indian products are cheap
because they are produced in power looms which reduce labor cost. Besides, Indian
producers use indigenous raw materials which save them from added cost of import
36
duty. During FGD the participants appreciated government policy to control the influx
of Indian products. The problem of copying Benarasi design on cheap Tangail
materials is also threatening this already ailing industry and damaging its reputation.
12. Due to tariff barriers imposed upon Bangladeshi Benarasi products easy access of
these products to Indian market is limited.
13. Women workers have their own gender specific problems. Benarasi production is still
largely a male dominated industry. Though women do a lot of important supporting
works from reeling the bobbin to embedding beads and zari, their work is not
appreciated and under valued. Some Women also complained of receiving lower
wage than male auxiliary workers for the same piece of work. So there is gender
discrimination when it comes to the question of wage.
14. The Benarasi industry is no longer limited to the geographical area of Mirpur. Now
the
villagers in Manikganj, Sirajganj, Tangail, Ishwardi etc. are producing low quality, low
cost Benarasi saris with reduced labor cost and sub standard fabric. Benarasi
products of Mirpur cannot compete with those products.
15. The show room owners’ sell the Benarasi products to the customers at a much
higher prices than what they pay to the producers. During FGD the participants
said that they want the right to regulate the mode of operation of the show room
owners.
16. The lack of a settlement for Benarasi producers has been identified as the most
persistent problem for the community. The respondents opined that if the craftsmen
were placed in a single area, it would be easier for government and craftsmen to
deliver the services. Respondents want a territory of their own which will help in
getting loan. Government allocated land for the Benarasi Palli at Bhashantek. The
families of Benarasi Palli organized Tant Shilpa Samity to collect installments for the
land allocated to each of them. Some of the residence even paid certain amount of
money as installment but management of the samity defrauded the money. No
action has yet been taken against them. The price of the land has gone up which
now they cannot afford. Presently, these plots are being allocated to government and
non-government agencies. The respondents identified the failure of successive
governments to ensure that only weavers get plot allocation in the proposed Benarasi
Palli in Vashantek. They complained that corruption is prevalent in the allocation
procedure as rich people with no background of Benarasi work are getting the
allocation using bribe. The chairperson of the Bangladesh Bihari Rehabilitation
Centre said that without any permanent rehabilitation program by the government
they are not going to move out of this camp.
37
Case 4:
Masrur Ahmed Munna (nick name Munna Mahajan) is an entrepreneur living in Muslim Camp of Mirpur- 10. He is 58 years old and is illiterate. He has seven members in the family. He earns around Taka seven thousand per month from various Benarasi related activities (weaving, selling). He is involved in this profession following family tradition. When he was young he left the camp and did various other jobs for ten years but could not do well. He returned to the camp and got engaged in Benarasi activities. Like most other of the Benarasi Palli he does not have formal training on this skill, just learned the skill as apprentice.
Though the demand for Benarasi is increasing, the workers and most of the entrepreneurs of Mirpur Benarasi Palli do not make much money. In the last few years a number of factories have been closed down. Traditional weavers are taking up other odd jobs for living.
According to Masrur the problems in Mirpur Benarasi industry are: high price of raw materials and competition with cheap Indian goods in the market. The control of business is in the hand of new capitalists who are not traditionally involved in Benarasi production. So they tend to focus mainly on profit. They have no interest to preserve the product as traditional craft, neither they are concerned about labor welfare. He also added that there is long bureaucratic procedure in securing loan and the amount of loan money is not enough as the borrowers don’t have much to mortgage to the bank.
However, he thinks that ensuring soft loan facilities to marginal, small and traditionally engaged entrepreneur, reducing the price of raw materials, controlling the illegally imported Indian products can save the industry.
38
Case Study 6.
Emdad Haque designer and proprietor of “Banglar Mela” has made western clothing and household things such as drape with Benarasi which is very much adorable to Europeans. Benarasi made product can be an export item, he mentioned.
He said that countrywide expansion of Benarasi industry is a positive improvement. However he showed his concern over the condition of workers in Mirpur area. Due to difference in culture, language, lifestyle they keep themselves isolated from the mainstream population.
Lack of professionalism has lead to the tendency to be irregular at work, breaching the commitments espoused in the contracts, not following the ordered designs to save money, no effort at experimenting with the fabric, lack of creativity in designing and piracy.
Mr. Haque recommends some point in order to hurdle this barriers and contribute to the Benarasi industry. The Benarasi entrepreneurs, weavers as well as the shop-owners should give proper information about the product such as what materials have been used, what proportion of silk threads have been used, what type of zari have been used etc. The shop-owners should fix price ranges for all groups of customers. Weaving patterns should be changed for example- Tanchoi, Brocade, Jute katan or fusion with any of this two type etc.
Indian Benarasi market can be followed to develop our market. Because Indian Benarasi shops sell saris in different price range, they mention the proportion of silk thread and synthetic thread; they display the technique of washing saris. They also attach the silk mark by the silk board on their products.
Mr. Haque also suggests that a governmental visit in India can be organized to observe the pattern of Indian weaving. If our government can manage the way of conversation between the two countries it will help our private initiative as well as Benarasi industry.
Benarasi has a great prospect in abroad specially in Europe. They use Benarasi as decoration materials. This niche product can earn foreign currency if Bangladesh Handloom Board, EPB etc support this industry. Mr. Haque believes that a proper research on Benarasi industry can improve the fate of the people involved in this profession, the consumers and the industry also.
While talking about the social condition of the Benarasi workers Mr. Haque appreciates the growing practice of education among the people of Mirpur Benarasi Palli. He considers Benarasi industry as family industry, because the whole family is involved with the business. He mentioned that he does not believe that weaving is a men’s job. It can be performed by the women also. But he also told that certain type of loom can be harmful for the women like the back strap loom. He firmly believes that she or he who is better will do the job. No work is gender biased. Child labor is allowed in the Benarasi Palli and his analyze it positively. He said that these children help their family besides their schooling. They are not taking drugs or gambling outside. So their work should be appreciated.
Mr Emdad Haque has a future plan. He wants to organize show in collaboration with other designers from different boutiques. This show will only exhibit Benarasi sari and product made with Benarasi.
39
Case Study: 5
Ms. Munira Emdad, Proprietor, Tangail Saree Kutir started working with Benarasi since 1985. At that time Mirpur Benarasi Palli was not developed. The area as well as the Benarasi industry flourished with the coarse of time. According to her Benarasi industry has improved but the Benarasi workers of Mirpur could not change their status. She mentioned various reasons behind their misery. The main reason is lack of permanent living place of the workers of Mirpur as said by Ms. Munira. People of Mirpur have to think of the price of threads and other raw materials. She said that people of Tangail have managed to progress their condition because they live in village in their own home. Other reasons are their irregularity, laziness, indiscipline life style. They are not committed to their work and very unprofessional. Moreover, the price of raw materials fluctuates.
Ms. Munira basically works on Benarasi sari, but recently she is making two pieces for salwar kamiz. She works with the Benarasi workers directly and works on regular payment. She made her own designs, but say that she has to keep strict eye on the workers to prevent design piracy. She wants to made original Benarasi exclusively, but could not do so as there are only 4/5 Benarasi workers who knows the art of pure Benarasi sari.
She wants to work with Benarasi sari only in future. However, she does not want to export sari directly. Though people buy sari from her shop and send them abroad.
She recommends that government should rehabilitate the Benarasi workers of Mirpur Benarasi Palli immediately. If they get a permanent place to live they will automatically get other training. Stable supply of raw materials will also affect the cost of sari. She firmly believes that Benarasi workers of Mirpur have capacity to capture the market both in the country and abroad.
Case Study 7:
Mohammad Aslam Hossain (28) is a shop-owner of Mirpur Benarasi Palli. His grand parents migrated from India to Bangladesh when his father was just a kid. He started working after the death of his father due to financial crisis. In the beginning, he worked for other entrepreneurs. He then took loan from Krishi bank in the year 1996. He took over the possession of their rented shop and started his own business. Right now 20 loom workers work under him. He provides design for his entire sari. Aslam think that present condition of Benarasi industry is good than before.
He said that he pay the workers for per sari. The price rate is fixed by him. He mainly produce sari, but presently he is also producing three pieces for Salwar Kamiz.
According to Md. Aslam the state of Benarasi business deteriorate because the people of this area are unprofessional, greedy, lazy, and irregular to their work. They take loan but do not return it timely. They do not follow the instructions of the designers and entrepreneurs properly. Some times they compromise with the quality of the sari by using less zari, decreasing length of the sari but they demand more wage for per sari. Many of them invest large amount of money in the business by putting more looms. But they could not manage to earn expected profit. Another problem is bank loan provided by Krishi Bank. The problem is that people take loan on the basis of fake loom. The bank authority does not verify the ability of the borrower. As a result they pay back from their loaned money or they do not pay and end of the contract the bank seized their looms, send notice etc. Other problem is the internal migrants who come from all over the country for more profit. Basically these people have entered in the business suddenly. They recruit more workers in the loom, they even use the helpers/ support staff as worker (Tanti) by giving them more wage. These types of entrepreneurs are selling their products in a lesser amount of profit (tk. 50 per sari) to recollect their capital. Thus they are destroying the status of Benarasi industry. Moreover, some entrepreneurs are migrating to then villages of Tangail due to cheap labor cost.
When asked about giving only tk.50 profit he questioned the attitude of the workers. He mentioned that the workers want money immediately after completing the sari. They should wait for a while to get more profit. They should make good quality product and then the shop-owners will automatically buy sari and give them more profit.
He is interested in exporting Benarasi saris. He said that if he gets opportunity will send his product to international market and different fairs.
40
10. Recommendations
To address the problems and ensure the promotion of the Benarasi industry, the
respondents made a number of recommendations. These are as follows:
1. The government should allocate an area for Benarasi production in the country rather
than spreading this industry all over Bangladesh.
2. As low wage had previously been identified as the single biggest problem, the
increase in the wage was considered to be the most important task ahead.
3. Protectionism was identified as the second important factor. It was important to stop
the smuggling of Benarasi products from India to save the local industry.
The Government policy and program to export of Benarasi products will expand their
market and increase their demand. Government should negotiate with the Indian
Government to remove tariff barriers imposed upon Bangladeshi Benarasi products
to promote easy access of these products to Indian market.
4. Promotion of marketing of indigenous Benarasi products in the local market is also
necessary to give the industry a necessary boost.
5. The Government subsidies to Benarasi product would help in promoting the Benarasi
industry.
The government should provide loans with low interest rate to the workers for the
procurement of loom. The interest rate for loans should be decreased to 5%. They
also pointed out that the present amount of loan that they get from different banks or
financial institutions is not enough for the smooth operation of the business.
Presently they get Tk. 20-25 thousand as loan. But they need at least taka one lac for
business purpose.
6. Government monitoring on the fare price of the raw materials was considered to be
another important factor.
7. The price of the Benarasi should be fixed by the cooperative society.
8. Continuous review and revision on design to meet the varied test of the customers is
required for increase demand for the product.
9. Better training was identified as a necessary step to improve the design and
entrepreneurship skill.
10. It is also important to improve the relation between the owners and workers in the
industry.
41
11. Providing salary on time, establishing cooperative society for the workers,
concentration of Benarasi production only in Mirpur, approving debt holiday,
preventing piracy of design, increasing involvement of NGOs in this sector for
training, funding, supply of raw materials, marketing etc., creating more employment
opportunities and ensuring regular work inside the industry, fixing fare price of
Benarasi products, ensuring better work environment, establishing more schools,
eliminating middlemen- all these were viewed as important for the over all
development of the Benarasi industry in Mirpur.
12. Government and/or NGOs should assist in marketing of their products so that they
are saved from the exploitation of show room owners. Increasing involvement of
NGOs in this sector for training, funding, supply of raw materials, marketing etc
42
11. Conclusion
During survey with different stakeholders (designers, entrepreneurs, weavers, and boutique
shop owners) a number of challenges facing the Benarasi industry in Bangladesh have been
pointed out. Lack of citizenship has been identified as one of the major problems for which
they are segregated and isolated from the mainstream community. They do not have any
permanent place to settle which is an issue regarding their business. Both the workers and
proprietor have mentioned that a permanent living place can reduce many problems of
Benarasi industry. Throughout the research it has been observed by the researchers that
their economic condition is not satisfactory according to their living style. However, they have
lots of cultural aspect and they invest a lot in these festivals even curtailing their primary
needs. If they reduce these social costs and invest them in their essential requirement it will
improve their living standard.
Although they are illiterate they are very education conscious. The adult members send their
children or younger one’s to schools for learning. The people of Benarasi Palli have started
understanding the necessity of education and if they reply their learning to their profession
they can improve their status as well as their business.
The people of Benarasi Palli are very conscious about maternal and child health even
though their living spaces are narrow, water and sanitation condition is poor.
Creating and sustaining a market for our Benarasi product overseas and instituting some
government incentives and initiatives to promote export have been highlighted by a number
of interviewees. The owners of renowned boutique houses of the city pointed out that there
is tremendous potential for this industry in Bangladesh if proper government attention was
received. They are of opinion that quality Benarasi product from Bangladesh has high
demand outside the country. But exporting these products on a large scale requires
government sponsorship. To capture market for these products-domestic or overseas,
quality control and standardization are must.
During the field visit, researchers found out that there is a large variation of Benarasi
products of the same category. Consumers also complain about the deteriorating quality of
the Benarasi sarees. Entrepreneurs have a story to tell in their defense. The rising cost of
raw materials is forcing them to compromise with the quality of saree. For example one
entrepreneur said that one pound of better quality Chinese silk cost them taka 3,200
whereas they can buy lower quality Chinese silk at only taka 180. They claim that the shop
owners do not want to pay more for better quality Benarasi. So investing the same amount of
energy, effort and labor for less remunerative quality saree is not a wise business option for
them.
43
When it comes to expanding the overseas market for Benarasi another important revelation
needs to be made. The industry people here in Bangladesh do not have any clear idea or
plan about exporting their products outside the country. All they can understand and relate to
is that during Ershad regime foreign delegations to this country used to procure a lot of
Benarasi sarees from Mirpur. Those golden days are over for them now.
But those who want to work on this niche of fabric and those who dream of spreading its
magic worldwide thinks that Benarasi has lots of potential to attract international market.
They think that we can tap on this emerging market of exotic, intrinsic art of clothing if we get
appropriate government sponsorship. Government can subsidize this sector by providing
credit, building necessary social, economic and financial infrastructure, arranging marketing
campaigns worldwide, negotiating with interested buyers. In this age of free market economy
total and absolute government intervention in any sector of the economy is neither possible
nor welcome. The policy intervention to support and encourage private sector investment in
this area is urgently needed. At the same time a minimum level of government support is
necessary to give the entrepreneurs the much needed guarantee of their investment in this
new endeavor to export Benarasi products. All that entrepreneurs are asking for is the
smoothening of their way ahead. A little government recognition of the imporatance of the
sector and the establishment of a healthy environment for business can make a big
difference. As it has been mentioned earlier quality control and standard setting are the two
important issue areas which the government has to address. The example of Indian
Benarasi industry can really help our policy makers a lot in this respect.
44
References:
1. Traditional Textiles of Bangladesh by Perveen Ahmed/
www.cottonbangladesh.com/January 2007/Traditional Textile of BD1.htm
2. Loan for weavers under study/Tuesday, January 04, 2005. http://www.
Bangladeshobserveronline.com/new/2005/01/04/district.htm)
.
3. Benarasi sari loses market to India Mahtabi Zaman /New Age: Wednesday, May 24, 2006
4. Research report of GGTP 4th batch (A Study on Production in Benarasi Palli:
Prospect of Developing Women Entrepreneurs)
5. NEW age Business
Fri day may 26, 2006. Benarasi sari weavers facing hard times
as demand dwindles, wage drops
45
Annexure 1 Tables:
Respondent sex
Frequency Percent
Female 51 17.0
Male 249 83.0
Total 300 100.0
Respondent marital status
Frequency Percent
Married 187 62.3
Unmarried 112 37.3
Widow 1 .3
Total 300 100.0
Types of family
Frequency Percent
Nuclear 183 61.0
Extended 56 18.7
Joint 61 20.3
Total 300 100
Type of jobs of the respondents
Frequency Percent
Entrepreneur 49 16.3
Designer 11 3.7
Weaver 168 56.0
Support Stuff 57 19.0
Others 15 5.0
Total 300 100.0
46
Respondent interest in studying night school
Frequency Valid Percent
Yes 197 66.8
No 64 21.7
Never thought 34 11.5
Total 295 100.0
Preferred type of education
Frequency Percent
Private institution 90 30.0
Government institution 164 54.7
Madrasah 43 14.3
Other 3 1.0
Total 300 100.0
Education Gender of the respondents Total (N=264)
Male
(N= 235)
Female
(N= 29)
Illiterate 50 48 49
Primary 29 28 29
SSC 19 17 18
HSC 1 7 03
Graduate 0.4 - 0.5
Masters 0.4 - 0.5
Total 100 100 100
47
Occurrences of violence against women in society
Frequency Percent
Always 71 23.7
Often 80 26.7
Never 42 14.0
Don’t know 107 35.7
Total 300 100.0
knowledge of VAW incident
Frequency Percent
Yes 73 24.3
No 227 75.7
Total 300 100.0
mode and media of entertainment
Frequency Percent
Audio (Radio , Cassette) 44 14.7
TV 164 54.7
gossiping 33 11.0
others 30 10.0
never take part in any kind of entertainment 29 9.7
Total 300 100.0
48
Birth place of new born baby
Frequency Percent
home 159 53.0
Private clinic 78 26.0
government hospital /health centre 21 7.0
generally home but hospital in case of complexity 42 14.0
Total 300 100.0
regular immunization of children
Frequency Percent
generally given 275 91.7
people here are not aware 3 1.0
never heard of immunization 3 1.0
don’t know any thing 19 6.3
Total 300 100.0
Respondent’s status in case of interests for the borrowed money
Frequency Percent
Yes 250 83.3
No 50 16.7
Total 300 100
49
The ways in which the rate of interest is fixed
Frequency Percent
Compound Interest 10 3.3
Fixed rate 99 33.0
Others 17 5.7
Total 126 42.0
No response 174 58.0
Total 300 100.0
State of payment of the respondents
Frequency Percent
Regularly get 230 76.7
Irregularly get 70 23.3
Total 300 100
Experience of the respondents about the same amount of work pressure all through the year
Frequency Percent
Yes 63 21.0
No 237 79.0
Total 300 100.0
Person responsible for work related damage compensation
Frequency Percent
Entrepreneur/owner 43 14.3
Worker (self) 222 74.0
Both 35 11.7
Total 300 100.0
50
Nature of relationship between the workers and the owners
Frequency Percent
Good 160 53.3
Average 137 45.7
Bad 3 1.0
Total 300 100.0
Respondents membership in organizations/ co-operative societies
Frequency Percent
Yes 84 28.0
No 153 51.0
No organization 63 21.0
Total 300 100.0
Name of the organizations attended by the respondents
Frequency Percent
Lottery based savings org 4 1.3
NGO 59 19.7
Community organization (Bihari) 5 1.7
Occupational (Weaver/ entrepreneur) 12 4.0
Others 3 1.0
Total 83 27.7
Not Member of any organization 217 72.3
Total 300 100.0
Involvement of the respondents in some other job/profession
Frequency Percent
Yes 90 30
No 210 70
Total 300 100
51
Status of female workers
during pregnancy
No. and percentage of Respondent
Frequency Percent
Yes 9 18
No 11 22
Did not worked 6 11
Unmarried 25 49
Total 51 100
The female respondents
receive lower wage than
male workers
No. and percentage of Respondent
Frequency Percent
Yes 24 47
No 19 37
Never thought 8 16
Total 51 100
The respondent’s institutional training related to their job
Frequency Percent
Yes 70 23.3
No 224 74.7
Total 294 98.0
System 6 2.0
Total 300 100.0
52
Respondent’s necessity for training
Frequency Percent
Yes 170 56.7
No 130 43.3
Total 300 100
Present skill of workers to make other product with Benarasi
Frequency Percent
yes 191 64.0
No 109 36.0
Total 300 100
The respondents wish to continue with this profession in the future
Frequency Percent
Yes 165 55.0
No 135 45.0
Total 300 100.0
Type of jobs of the respondents by age Total
Entrepreneur Designer Weaver Support Stuff Others
age between 5 to 14 years 0 0 1 4 2 7
age between 15 to 24 years 4 1 33 32 5 75
age between 25 to 34 years 23 5 95 17 2 142
age between 35 to 44 years 15 2 29 3 6 55
age between 45 to 54 years 7 3 9 0 0 19
age between 55 to 64 years 0 0 1 1 0 2
Total 49 11 168 57 15 300
53
Entrepreneurs: 25 to 44/ 38- 77%
Designer: 25 to 54/10 – 90%
Weavers: 15 to 44/ 157 – 93%
Support Staff: 15 to 34/56 – 77%
Most (93%) of the weavers are in the age group of 15 to 44. More than three fourth (77%) of the
auxiliary workers who are mostly women are in the age group 15 to 34. Seventy seven percent
entrepreneurs are in the age group 25 to 44. Out of 11 designers, 10 are in the age group 25 to 54.
Only one who is working as intern with his father is … years old.
Respondent age rank * Respondent marital status * Respondent sex Cross tabulation
Respondent sex
Respondent marital status Total
Married Unmarried Widow
Female respondent age rank
age between 5 to 14 years
1 5 0 6
age between 15 to 24 years
8 18 0 26
age between 25 to 34 years
9 0 0 9
age between 35 to 44 years
7 0 0 7
age between 45 to 54 years
1 0 0 1
age between 55 to 64 years
0 0 1 1
Total 26 23 1 50
Male respondent age rank
age between 5 to 14 years
1 0 1
age between 15 to 24 years
3 45 48
age between 25 to 34 years
87 38 125
age between 35 to 44 years
40 1 41
age between 45 to 54 years
18 0 18
age between 55 to 64 years
1 0 1
Total 150 84 234
54
Type of jobs of the respondents * respondent age rank * Respondent marital status Cross tabulation
Responde
nt marital
status
respondent age rank Tot
al
age
betwe
en 5 to
14
years
age
betwe
en 15
to 24
years
age
betwe
en 25
to 34
years
age
betwe
en 35
to 44
years
age
betwe
en 45
to 54
years
age
betwe
en 55
to 64
years
Married Type of
jobs of the
responde
nts
Entrepren
eur
0 0 14 9 7 0 30
Designer 1 0 3 2 3 0 9
Weaver 1 4 62 24 9 1 101
Support
Stuff
0 6 14 2 0 0 22
Others 0 1 2 5 0 0 8
Total 2 11 95 42 19 1 170
Unmarrie
d
Type of
jobs of the
responde
nts
Entrepren
eur
0 3 8 0 11
Designer 0 1 0 0 1
Weaver 0 26 28 1 55
Support
Stuff
3 25 2 1 31
Others 2 4 0 1 7
Total 5 59 38 3 105
Widow Type of
jobs of the
responde
nts
Support
Stuff
1 1
Total 1 1
55
Reason behind health hazards of Benarasi Palli
Opinion (# of cases)
health status female male
Unhygienic environment 5 48
Lack of knowledge about health care 10 55
Lack of proper nutritious diet 19 86
Excessive hard work 34 207
Others 6 12
Total 74 408
Not: multiple responses count
Type of jobs of the respondents * the ways in which the rate of interest is fixed Cross tabulation
The ways in which the rate of interest is fixed
Total
Compound Interest
Fixed rate Others
Type of jobs of the respondents
Entrepreneur 1 25 5 31
Designer 0 8 0 8
Weaver 4 46 8 58
Support Stuff 2 18 3 23
Others 3 2 1 6
Total 10 99 17 126
Type of jobs of the respondents * Place of saving money: No savings Cross tabulation
Place of saving money : No savings
Total
No Savings
Type of jobs of the respondents
Weaver 1 1
Support Stuff 2 2
Total 3 3
56
Type of jobs of the respondents * Place of saving money: Co-operative society Cross tabulation
Place of saving money : Co-operative society
Total
Co-operative society
Type of jobs of the respondents
Entrepreneur 7 7
Weaver 21 21
Support Stuff 10 10
Total 38 38
Type of jobs of the respondents * Place of saving money: Bank Cross tabulation
Place of saving money :Bank
Total
Bank
Type of jobs of the respondents
Entrepreneur 11 11
Designer 2 2
Weaver 16 16
Total 29 29
Type of jobs of the respondents * Place of saving money: At their Home Cross tabulation
Place of saving money :At their Home
Total
At their Home
Type of jobs of the respondents
Entrepreneur 4 4
Designer 1 1
Weaver 20 20
Support Stuff 3 3
Total 28 28
57
Type of jobs of the respondents * Place of saving money: NGO (SEEP/Shakti/ASA/Urban/BRAC) Cross
tabulation
Place of saving money : NGO (SEEP/Shakti/ASA/Urban/BRAC)
Total
NGO (SEEP/Shakti/ASA/Urban/BRAC)
Type of jobs of the respondents
Entrepreneur 7 7
Weaver 19 19
Support Stuff 5 5
Others 5 5
Total 36 36
Type of jobs of the respondents * Working hour of the worker Cross tabulation
Working hour of the worker Tota
l
2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1
0
1
1
1
2
1
3
1
4
1
5
1
6
1
8
Type of jobs
of the
respondent
s
Entrepreneu
r
0 1 0 0 2 1 8 3 1
1
1 1
3
0 5 4 0 0 49
Designer 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 5 0 0 0 5 0 0 0 11
Weaver 0 0 0 0 1 0 9 4 6
1
6 5
1
8 2
2
4 1 1 168
Support
Stuff
4 1 1 3 4 2 1
1
1 1
4
5 9 0 2 0 0 0 57
Others 0 0 0 3 0 0 3 2 2 1 3 1 0 0 0 0 15
Total 4 2 1 6 7 3 3
2
1
0
9
3
1
3
7
6
9 3
4
8 1 1 300
Type of jobs of the respondents * the basis for wage: Daily Cross tabulation
The basis for wage :Daily
Total
Daily
Type of jobs of the respondents
Weaver 3 3
Total 3 3
58
Type of jobs of the respondents * the basis for wage: Weekly Cross tabulation
The basis for wage :Weekly
Total
Weekly
Type of jobs of the respondents
Entrepreneur 18 18
Designer 1 1
Weaver 73 73
Support Stuff 22 22
Others 5 5
Total 119 119
Type of jobs of the respondents * the basis for wage: Monthly Cross tabulation
The basis for wage :Monthly
Total
Monthly
Type of jobs of the respondents
Weaver 1 1
Support Stuff 1 1
Total 2 2
Average Weekly income
No of
Respondents
Average weekly
income
No of
Respondents
Average weekly
income
Entrepreneurs 47 634 1 2500
Designers 09 850 0 0
Weavers 157 581 6 11833
Support staff 74 530 6 3240
59
Type of jobs of the respondents * the basis for wage: Number of piece of clothe Cross tabulation
The basis for wage :Number of piece of
clothe
Total
Number of piece of clothe
Type of jobs of the respondents
Entrepreneur 21 21
Designer 8 8
Weaver 95 95
Support Stuff 34 34
Others 12 12
Total 170 170
Type of jobs of the respondents * The basis for wage :Others Cross tabulation
The basis for wage :Others
Total
1
Type of jobs of the respondents
Designer 1 1
Weaver 4 4
Support Stuff 4 4
Total 9 9
60
Annexure 2
The task of preparing the thread for making saree is a painstaking and difficult job. It takes a
lot of time and patience and hard work. The whole process has been summarized as follows:
At first, high quality imported silks from China, India and Pakistan are procured. These
threads usually come to the market in the form of bales. From these threads smaller and
longer threads are segregated. The smaller threads are cut and then put on the spin pools of
Charkas (Wheels) for the banna (Weft). The larger spools are then put through a process of
dying. Special dying experts are assigned this job. They boil the threads for at least one hour
with soap. After boiling for over an hour with at least four bar soups, the threads are then
washed using four pots of clean water. At this stage they mix a thread softener called
Kharaeee (digamen) with the water to bring on the smoothness of the thread. The dyeing
process is interesting. 70 yards of threads can be dyed at one time in three colors, for up to
five saris with blouse pieces. This is done by using one colors dye up to a given
measurement of the threads.
The dyed spools are then put onto Turai or beams. These beams look like larger rolling pins
called Belun.
Threads are then straightened to achieve the required length of one or two sarees. If
necessary the threads are being joined to achieve this required length. Hair like smooth silk
threads are then produced with the help of a powder called madesun. This powder is made
of fine soft ashes (chhai) and is being used to join threads. Thus the workers come up with
soft and smooth silk for Benarasi.
Another specialized form of artisans is required for the next stage of the benarasi production.
After arranging the threads for Tanna, they are fitted at the weaver’s end of the loom by
these craftsmen. This task requires extensive and detailed verbal communication between
the weavers and the craftsmen because this is teamwork and the two categories of
craftsmen are dependent on each other for their assigned tasks. A weaver has to explain the
composition of the saree very skillfully to the thread setter so that he can then use his
technical knowledge according to the design of the saree. The thread setter has to have
prior knowledge about the three colors of the saree in order to arrange the threads of
different colors on the loom appropriately. For example the main ground color (jomeen) will
be black, the border (paar) and end piece (anchol) will be beige and motifs will be of cream
shades. The weaver needs to explain the design to the setter referring to patterns such as
keridar (paisley) or phoolkoli or kangeevaran. It is amazing to see how these two categories
61
of craftsmen coordinate their works verbally without the help of any written code or guideline.
They use a special kind of bamboo rolling pin known as Pareta. This is also known as
Natawa. The thread spreads prepared by Charka workers are kept on the floor of the factory
near the weaver and the weaver then starts making the saree using that thread spread.
Cotton is not used; as most customers do not want to buy intricately designed cotton sarees
that would be more expensive than ordinary cotton ones.
The rooms where the delicate silk threads are stretched out have a poor and shabby look.
They are made of rusted tin and worn out bamboos. There is hardly any provision of
ventilation or lighting in these rooms. In another similarly discomforting room a weaver
weaves the design on a saree. Due to the poor conditions of these rooms, the sarees are
often drenched in rain water. The holes in the roof are responsible for this kind of
inconvenience.
It usually takes one week to complete a 14 inches long and 48 inches broad saree. But the
time span can vary according to the complexity of the design and patterns to be created on
saree. The traditional artists who design the motifs have no formal training. Nevertheless
they create really nice designs for sarees using their creativity and with great care.
Zari is a material which is made of Rolex and cotton thread and it is used to work on the
anchal and borders of the saree. This Zari is usually imported from neighboring Pakistan.
Zari can be found in all colors except golden. After weaving is done, the stretch of fabric is
sent for the work of Karchupi. Karchupi is a very special kind of elaborate thread work. Small
beads known as Puti are then placed on the saree for further beautification. And this is done
by using a needle which is as sharp as fishhook.
62
Annexure3
This industry can also solve the unemployment problem to some extent and add to
the GDP of the country. If provision for export of Benarasi is made as it is made for
the ready made garments sector it will help diversify our export basket and also help
us earn valuable foreign exchange. Indian market imposed tariff barriers upon
Bangladeshi Benarasi products to stop easy access.
If government negotiates with Indian government to reduce/relax tariff on Benarasi it would
be a good opportunity for Bangladesh to expand business and earn more money. This
research is conducted with the intention of providing the policy makers the necessary
information to begin with the task of rescuing Benarasi industry from its ruin.
Table with explanation in the annex
A report from ASA shows that as on November, 2008 total loan of Tk.11,894,930 was
disbursed among 537 borrowers with an interest rate of 12.5% which consists of micro credit
and small enterprise including installation of shops. Loan outstanding is Tk. 7, 363,625 and
repayment rate of 97%. ASA also provide insurance facilities for product loss or in case of
death of the members.
