THE THE ONLY LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE DEDICATED TO YACHT ...gemsres.com/section/73/YVC3-1lowres.pdf · Angela Connery Yacht Charters ACYC offers you the finest selection in both sail and

T H E O N LY L I F E S T Y L E M A G A Z I N E D E D I C A T E D T O Y A C H T V A C A T I O N S

A KIRCAALI MEDIA PUBLICATION

T H E O N LY L I F E S T Y L E M A G A Z I N E D E D I C A T E D T O Y A C H T V A C A T I O N S

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Plus...Discover East Africa’s Beautiful Zanzibar Island A New Life for an Alaskan King Crab Fishing BoatCatch the Aloha Spirit by Island Hopping in Hawaii

TURQUOISE COAST

Sailing Through History in Turkey

SOUTHERN FRANCE

Cruising the Camargue

PACIFIC NORTHWEST

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t a b l e o f c o n t e n t s

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14Monster Hunting

Loch Ness and the Highlands of ScotlandThe Highlands of Scotland might not be the most obvious place to take a

yacht, but a combination of sea-canals and the largest body of water

in the UK make it a surprisingly accessible destination for all

but the largest yacht, with a history which still echoes today

and some of the most spectacular landscapes in the world.

22Turkey: Sailing Through History

Dreaming of somewhere warm and exoticLet Turkey light up your imagination. Three great things embody Turkey.

Just a four hour flight away from international London, it has a culture

which is profoundly different, distinctly unfamiliar. A land on the very cusp

of Europe and Asia, with two heads simultaneously facing both east and

west, it embodies the magic and mysticism of the orient.

30Sport Outfitting & Unique Elegance

Absinthe offers a charter experience entirely sui generisCruising the western coasts of the Americas,

M/Y Absinthe accents rugged outdoorsmanship in her sporting offerings,

yet is graced by furnishings and amenities fit for royalty: you!

38Destination ParadiseNorthern Light, heading east to new horizonsFollowing five successful years chartering in the Caribbean and the

Mediterranean, the sumptuous 151ft Royal Van Lent Feadship,

Northern Light, will embark on her most exotic journey yet:

the sun-drenched islands of the Indian Ocean.

66Zanzibar Island What makes East Africa is so beautifulWith an abundance of wildlife, coupled with rugged landscapes

ranging from the sprawling Serengeti to lush rainforests and pristine

beaches, the region is truly a destination for the ultimate traveler.

80Cruising the CamargueThe black pearl of the MedCruising the canals of the Camargue in the South of France is

to sample a vacation experience like no other, as you enjoy

the local food and wine together with the flexibility, freedom

and fun that only a self- catering yacht vacation can offer.

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8 Recommended Yacht Charter Brokers Recommended Air Charter Companies

9 Editorial

Weather the Winter Weather in Style and Comfort

42 Captain’s Corner

Positive Attitude

46 Resorts

Mohonk Mountain House

48 Yachting Trends

Fractional Ownership

56 Resorts

Next Generation Villas

87 Luxury Goods

Porsche Carrera 4 Coupe

91 Luxury Goods

Harley’s VRSCR Street Rod

96 Gadgets&Things

Gadgets for Gamers

d e p a r t m e n t s

t a b l e o f c o n t e n t s

10 Caribbean: Discovery Cruising in the Caribbean Exploratory cruising in a refined English country-house setting

20 Company Profile: Afroudakis A Greek name meaning the passion for perfectionism

58 The Pacific: Island Fever Catch the Aloha spirit by island hopping in Hawaii

62 Mediterranean: Home Sweet Port Port Grimaud: Luxury living with a yacht in your yard!

64 Yacht Profile: Wild Thyme Bennetti Classic 120ft

72 Italy: Sublime Vertigo The Amalfi Coast & Sicily

76 Asia: The Andaman Islands Floating in splendid isolation in the middle of the Bay of Bengal

84 Yacht Profile: Super Yacht My Iris Aboard for an unforgettable, ultra-chic charter experience

88 Northern Europe: Spirit of The Highlands Cruising the lochs of Western Scotland

92 Pacific Northwest: Vancouver Island Live-aboard the dive boat Nautilus Explorer

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50 Nassau – Something for Everyone: A long-time favorite destination for the sun and beach starved traveler The place is being developed faster than you can say “conch fritter”, though, and the assortment of inns, resorts,

hotels and other places to hang hat and anchor can be a challenge to negotiate.

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Afroudakis Yachting is your best choice to escape routine or make an unforget-table present for those who you love...Our Greece mega yachts and motor yachts will take you to a cherished journey. Choose one of the luxury yachts to make your dream come true. Our Greece mega yachts are the most suitable way to enjoy an occasion with a great company. Our motor yachts are the most fabulous and luxury yachts for two. You’ll never be able to forget your exciting journey due to our comfortable Greece mega yachts. Our motor yachts combine style, performance and affordability. Get the best from our luxury yachts!+030-6974-770050 [email protected] | http://afroudakisyachting.com

Alpha Yachting offers crewed yacht charters in Greece, Croatia, Italy, France, Turkey, Spain and the Mediterranean sea. We are proud to offer a wide selection of luxury charter yachts for hire in Greece (group and private charter) to meet all your needs. All our yachts are clean, fully equipped and well maintained, our crew members are polite and can help you with all your travel needs, charter a crewed mega motor yacht, motor sailer, sailing yacht, skippered sail boat, bareboat, cata-maran and set sail from Athens Greece to the Greek Islands of Mykonos, Santorini, Corfu, Rhodes, Crete, Zakynthos, enjoy your sailing holiday cruises in Greece. Alpha Yachting Greece is managed by Manos Komninos, an established Naval Architect with over 20 years experience, who is not only a Yacht Broker, but who can suggest the ideal yacht for your vacation in Greece.Contact: Manos Kominos +30-210-968 [email protected] | www.alphayachting.com

Angela Connery Yacht Charters ACYC offers you the finest selection in both sail and motor yachts with full crew on a worldwide basis. If you’re looking for that special charter vacation experience that will leave you with unforgettable memories - let Angela Connery Yacht Charters help you with the details of your plans.Contact: Angela Connery 877 [email protected] | http://www.acyachtcharters.com

Beka Cornish Yachting Thinking about taking a luxury yachting vacation? Before embarking on your search for the perfect yacht, it is important to decide what type of ‘on the water’ experience you are looking for. In the ever growing charter yacht section of our web site, we offer our visitors the choice between sail and motor yachts of all sizes. If you have not chartered before we can help you decide which type of luxury yacht best meets your needs. If you cannot find what you are looking for, just let us know your requirements, and we will do the searching for you.Contact: Sid Cornish +34 [email protected] | www.beka-cornish.com

Blue Water Yacht Charters was established in 1983. With over 20 years experi-ence in bareboat and crewed yacht charter and management, we are uniquely qualified to assist in the planning of the best vacation you ever had. Our high percentage of repeat clients speak for themselves. Discretion and confidentiality are guaranteed. CYBA Contact: Karin Garrett 800 [email protected] | http://bluewateryachtcharters.com

Charter Brokers of Alaska Custom Charters... First class yacht and sportsfishing voyages in pristine Southeast Alaska and Inside Passage waters. Wildlife view-ing, sightseeing and fishing with captains with a wealth of local knowledge and experience. Crewed or “Skippered Bareboat ” adventures on one of our fleet of well appointed vessels - motoryacht or sail. We can tie your charter in with hunting trips, visits to Denali, remote lodges and other magnificent places.Contact: [email protected] | http://www.charterbrokersofalaska.com

Dream Sailing specializes in luxury, crewed sailing yachts from 55ft. based in St. Tropez, France and the British Virgin Islands. We offer a warm welcome and the opportunity to taste the glamorous and exciting world of yachting on an affordable scale. DreamCatcher is our flagship; other yachts are also available.Contact: Michelle Blore + 33 6 64 03 70 [email protected] | http://www.dreamsailing.co.uk

Executive Jet Management /NetJets Executive Jet Management’s charter services team is dedicated to providing you with the attention you deserve and the responsiveness you demand. A fleet of over 80 aircraft across the United States, convenience and comfort, safety and security, ultra-personalized service and profes-sionalism - air travel on your own terms. Executive Jet Management is a NetJets company with 40 years of aviation expertise. (A Berkshire Hathaway company)Contact: Jeff Cropper 877 [email protected] | http://www.ejmjets.com

Golden Yachts offers a fleet of seven luxurious motor yachts, including the 83m megayacht m/y O’MEGA. Experience combined with concentration to the finest details, along with highly trained crew is what has made Golden Yachts a leader in the yacht charter market throughout the East and West Mediterranean.Contact: Iro Orri +30 210 [email protected] | http://www.goldenyachts.gr

Luxurious Lifestyles at Sea program is a new and exciting opportunity to experi-ence the outstanding lifestyle of private yacht ownership combined with exceptional levels of service and support. The “at Sea” program allows your dream of owning a truly luxurious motor, sport fishing or saiiling yacht to come true. Through a frac-tional ownership program similar to that offered for corpaorate jets, you will enjoy exceptional yachting experiences without the time, expense and worry associated with individual yacht ownership.Contact: 1-866-577-7701 http://www.llatsea.com

Marcrista offers luxury cruising and relaxed sailing to remote pristine reefs and tropical island destinations. Your fully crewed charter on Marcrista is personalised and can include attention to your special interests – sailing, snorkelling, diving, adventure cruises, romantic honeymoons, game fishing, marine photography, marine biology, seabird life, isolated reefs, frontier wilderness locations, pristine sand cays, lush tropical rainforested islands, coastal rainforests, the south pacific’s best reefs, historical cultural aboriginal tours, outback wild life and fishing safaris.Contact: Mobile 0418 339 [email protected] | http://www.marcrista.com.au

Ocean Charters yacht accommodations are standard to five star deluxe. Boats and yachts range in size from 35 feet to 200 feet, power or sail. This is the secret alternative to the cruise! Crewed yachts provide vacations and a price range to fit each and every budget. We personalize itineraries allowing the client to pick and choose their stops. A crewed charter at any level allows for relaxation, basking in the sun or cruising from island to island with the highest level of personal service a vacation can offer.Contact: Susan Wallace Whiteman 800 [email protected] | http://www.oceancharters.com

Ocean Cruise large yachts since 1985. Luxury Yachts WorldwidePartners for a Yachting Life. Charter services: more than 300 yachts worldwide, mostly personally inspected by us; cruising areas worldwide; selection of the most suitable yacht and crew; preparation of contracts; stakeholders of your payments; meticulous charter preparation (special requests, transfers, etc.); stringent check of yacht chartered and performance check.Contact: Capt. Rags Wheldon 954 [email protected] | http://www.ocyachts.com

Paradise Yacht Charter specializes in locating private yachts for both corporate and personal entertaining throughout the world. We spend weeks every year travel-ing throughout the world inspecting these yachts, meeting their crews and making sure that they meet our standards for luxury yacht chartering. Whatever power yacht or sailing yacht you choose and wherever you choose to charter - you can be assured that we have seen the yachts we are recommending - and are not just working from a picture book! Our experience and personal service will insure we find the perfect yacht for your “Charter in Paradise”Contact: Rebecca [email protected] | http://www.paradiseyachtcharters.com

Peter Insull Yacht Marketing ensures that you have none of the cares yet all the pleasure that comes with cruising on the world’s finest yachts. The success of a charter depends upon matching the right yacht, the right crew and the right cruising area to the differing requirements of individual clients. With many years’ experience in the chartering of large yachts we are uniquely placed to help you with every detail, from on-board entertainment and leisure facilities, food and drink, to help and advise on co-ordinating flights and transfers and the planning of your cruising itinerary. There is simply no substitute for experience.Contact: Fiona Maureso +33 (0)4 9334 4455 [email protected] http://www.insull.com

SeaDream Yacht Club Twin, luxury megayachts, SeaDream I & II rated by Conde Nast readers as best at sea for Service and Cuisine. The award winning yachts accommodate up to 55 couples for special events such as incentives, meetings, family reunions, birthdays or anniversaries in the Caribbean, Mayan Riviera or Mediterranean!Contact: Bob Lepisto 305 [email protected] | http://www.seadreamcharter.com

South Seas International Yacht Broker In pochi anni e con l’aiuto di preziosi collaboratori ne fa una delle società più quotate in Italia. Oggi l’ufficio, situato alle spalle di uno dei più antichi borghi marinari del Mediterraneo, può far fronte ad un vasto mercato, la società, infatti, si avvale della competenza e della professionalità che i titolari, Danilo e Davide del Tufo, hanno ereditato dai lunghi anni di attività svolti dal padre e grazie alla quale soddisfano le esigenze dei clienti, sia con il brokeraggio che con il charter delle imbarcazioni gestite.Contact: +39 081 [email protected] | http://www.southseas.com

Stabbert Maritime offers expedition yacht charters for discriminating travelers seeking first class adventure while enjoying the ultimate in luxury yachting. Stabbert Maritime has over 50 years of experience in providing expedition charters around the world. Take a look and see how they may accommodate your charter dreams. They provide quality vessel management service for select yacht owners and have undertaken numerous overhaul and refit projects. See what their engineering and management expertise can do for you.Contact: 212 [email protected] | http://www.venture-pacific.com

The Club at Emerald Bay Nestled on the shores of a tranquil cove and cres-cent-shaped beach, overlooking the turquoise waters of the Atlantic Ocean and Emerald Bay, lies the most spectacular residential resort community in all of The Bahamas-Emerald Bay Great Exuma. This 470-acre community redefines tropi-cal elegance while capturing the island’s easy-going charm with grand private residences, the impeccable Four Seasons Resort and every imaginable amenity of a luxurious Caribbean lifestyle. Discover a boater’s haven, a golfer’s dream and a beach lover’s paradise. Discover your perfect piece of heaven at Emerald Bay Great Exuma. Welcome.Contact: 1-866-EMERALD www.theclubatemeraldbay.com

The Sacks Group The Sacks Group Yachting Professionals is a leader in luxury yacht vacations worldwide on vessels from 60’ to over 200’. Choose from over 1,500 yachts and cruise to classic destinations or exotic locales. Services also include charter marketing, yacht brokerage and new construction, call (954) 764-7742 or visit www.sacksyachts.com.Contact: 206 547-6161 http://www.sacksyachts.com | [email protected]

Trimarine We specialize in large groups of up to twenty. Most of our groups are divers or contain divers, though some are not. There will always be scuba instruc-tors on board. Large families, friends, YPO’s, clubs and affinity groups all come. We also run some Headboat trips for individuals to join.Contact: Annie 800 648-3393, or 284 [email protected] | http://www.BVIsailing.com

TSH One Aero We are cooperating with a selection of reputable and certified air charter operators worldwide. They work with efficiency and discretion providing our clients with the highest level of safety and comfort. As your charter broker we arrange your trip making sure you get the best possible price and the best service.Contact: Thierry S. Huguenin +1 242 677 [email protected] | http://www.smartaircharter.com

Valef Yachting Valef Yachts offers the largest fleet of crewed yachts for charter in Greece. There are more than 400 yachts, motor yachts, motor sailers and sailing yachts, accommodating 4 to 49 passengers in comfort. We offer permanent fully trained and experienced multilingual crews. Valef Yachts ensures excellent quality and reasonable prices on all food and beverage orders. Ask for our “private jet” charters.Contact: 800 [email protected] | http://www.valefyachts.com

Voyage Charters offers exclusive multiple award winning performace cruising catamarans. Luxury sailing vacations available in the British Virgin Islands, Spanish Balearic Islands and the Bahamas. Crewed charters, bareboat charters and skip-pered charters. Contact: [email protected] | www.voyagecharters.com

Yachting Greece has an extensive knowledge of Greek charter yachts that make it the best choice when it comes to a yachting holiday in Greece. Understanding and fulfilling charterers’ requirements is their chief goal. Contact: +30 210 [email protected] | www.yachtingreece.gr

YACHTING PARTNERS INTERNATIONAL can help make your dreams real when it comes to luxury yachting. Founded in 1972, they are one of the world’s premier yacht brokerage houses, with over 150 years’ combined experience in the marine business. Their services embrace everything from yacht chartering, acquisitions and sales to construction and management and are based on a meticulous, first-hand knowledge of today’s luxury yachting world. Contact: 800 626 0019 (UK) +44 0 1273 571722 (French) +33 0 4 93 34 01 [email protected] [email protected] | http://www.ypi.co.uk

YCO The YCO Charter Management division takes pride in understanding what makes a successful yacht charter truly great. Our first-hand knowledge of the world’s finest charter locations, coupled with access to the world’s finest yachts, guarantees you a yacht and an itinerary that will perfectly suit your expectations and desires. The YCO Charter Marketing division draws on our experience to man-age your yacht’s calendar, maximizing charter potential to fully capitalize on your expenditure without compromising your own yachting enjoyment. With our powerful marketing campaigns, you’re safe in the knowledge that we’re reaching every potential charter client, worldwide. Contact: +377 93 50 12 12 [email protected] | http://www.ycoyacht.com

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RECOMMENDED YACHT & AIR CHARTER BROKERS

VOLUME:3 ISSUE:1 2006 9YACHT VACATIONS & CHARTERS

GUEST EDITORIAL

International Yacht Vacations & Charters Magazine(ISSN #1549-3830) is published quarterly (4 times a year) by Kircaali Media, Inc.

COPYRIGHT © 2005 BY KIRCAALI MEDIA, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED OR TRANSMITTED IN ANY FORM OR BY ANY MEANS, ELECTRONIC OR MECHANICAL, INCLUDING PHOTOCOPY OR ANY INFORMATION, STORAGE AND RETRIEVAL SYSTEM, WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION. FOR PROMOTIONAL REPRINTS, CONTACT REPRINT COORDINATOR. KIRCAALI MEDIA, INC., RESERVES THE RIGHT TO REVISE, REPUBLISH AND AUTHORIZE ITS READERS TO USE THE ARTICLES SUBMITTED FOR PUBLICATION. ALL BRAND AND PRODUCT NAMES USED ON THESE PAGES ARE TRADE NAMES, SERVICE MARKS, OR TRADEMARKS OF THEIR RESPECTIVE COMPANIES.

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NEWSSTAND DISTRIBUTION CONSULTANTGREGORY ASSOCIATES/WRDS, 732 607-9941 [email protected]

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INTERNATIONAL YACHT VACATIONS & CHARTERS® IS THE REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF SYS-CON MEDIA INC.KIRCAALI MEDIA IS USING THE MARK PURSUANT TO A LICENSE AGREEMENT FROM SYS-CON MEDIA

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EDITORIALEditor at Large Jeremy [email protected] | 201 802-3027

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ADVERTISINGNational Sales Carmen [email protected] | 201 802-3021International Sales Miles [email protected] | 201 802-3029Advertising Director Robyn [email protected] | 201 802-3022Marketing & Sales Manager Jim [email protected] | 201 802-3066Europe & Mediterranean Belkis [email protected] | 201 802-3021

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MAILING ADDRESS

EDITORIAL OFFICE

YV&C on E!

1314 East Las Olas Blvd | Suite 500Fort Lauderdale, FL 33301

135 Chestnut Ridge Rd. Montvale, NJ 07645

BY JIM ARAIZA

YV&C CONTRIBUTOR

Jim Araiza went to Hollywood for an interview with E! Entertainment Television and

answered a few questions for their “Summer Entertainment Guide News Special”. The

show (check local listings for airtime) covers a number of packages on what’s hot this

summer from vacation spots, yachts, jets, to new gadgets – basicically

what you’ll find in the pages of Yacht Vacations & Charters Magazine!

What is it about yachting that is exotic and exciting? It’s all about “exploration” and the mystery that unfolds as you cruise, especially in the tropics of the Caribbean. From the oceanside, the islands look much as they did when pirates and explorers sailed the Caribbean. There are still old forts and cannons, and shipwrecks. On shore, you see the real world - cars, traffic, crowds. But at sea, you see the real beauty of the islands as you cruise from one island to the next. Of course, pirates could never dream of the onboard amenities enjoyed by modern “explorers!” Charter guests enjoy gourmet meals, ondeck Jacuzzis, and all the perks of a five-star resort.

What are the advantages to chartering a yacht over just going on a cruise? Flexibility. In essence, when you charter a yacht, the owner hands you the keys and says, “She’s all yours!” You become the owner of the vessel, and the master of her attentive crew. You come and go as you please. On a charter, you will never hear a crewmember say, “Make sure you are back onboard by 5 as we need to get underway.” That NEVER happens - guaranteed!

Why do celebrities prefer to charter? Pampering and luxury amenities are important, but you find them at any resort or spa. PRIVACY is first and foremost! When you spend your life in the limelight, you crave any chance to get away and just be yourself. The paparazzi can stake out a rented villa or a hotel for a glimpse of a star. That’s rarely a problem with a yacht. Nobody boards the yacht without the express permission of the charterer. Plus, once you pull away from the dock, no one knows where you are going unless you want them to know!

Can you list some celebrities who have chartered yachts for their vacations? It’s no secret that many A-list celebrities enjoy yachting. Rod Stewart, Sean “Diddy” Combs, and others have talked about their yachting vacations on late-night talk shows, and the paparazzi have cap-tured distant shots of folks like Mariah Carey, Matt Damon, and Brad Pitt onboard charter yachts.

What are the hot vacation spots? St. Barts in the Caribbean is always popular, especially over the year-end holidays. On New Year’s Eve, the yachts dock side by side, to allow the guests to watch the fireworks show and “yacht-hop,” going from one yacht party to the next. For solitude, the Bahamas are a fantastic spring destination. You can pull your yacht up to a mile-long beach with sugar-white sand, and not see another person for hours! In the summer, the top destination is the French Riviera. St. Tropez, Cannes, Nice, and nearby Monte Carlo offer European sophistication and old-world charm. YVC

Jim Araiza is co-owner of SailAway Yacht Charter Consultants. He and hi partner, Jana Sheeder, have arranged numerous

celebrity charters. [email protected]

Let us know what you think about YV&C by email: [email protected]

What’s hot in Hollywood this summer...

summer from vacation spots, yachts, jets, to new gadgets – basicically

Yacht Vacations & Charters Magazine!


CARIBBEAN

Swan Hellenic Minerva II offers

exploratory cruising in a refined

English country-house setting.

Discovery Cruising in the Caribbean

The first Swan Hellenic Mediterranean cruise traveled to the Greek Islands in 1954, and

in 1983, P&O purchased the company and furthered its development as a destination-rich

cruise line, visiting numerous international ports of historical and archeological interests.

Since 2004, Swan Hellenic is part of the Carnival Corp, along with the Yachts of Seabourn,

Cunard, NCL, Princess, Costa and Windstar.

WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED

BY YVONNE YORKE


However, Swan Hellenic is a distinctive product and a premium brand. Perhaps the first thing guests notice when they

step onboard the 600-passenger Minerva II is the richly-appointed furnishings and interiors set in a cozy, country-club atmosphere reminiscent of an English manor house. Thankfully devoid of the distasteful aspects of conventional cruising, there are no long lines onboard the Minerva, nor are there raised voices, piped elevator music, or glitzy atriums which belong in a suburban mall but not while sailing the high seas. Everything is very civi-lized yet relaxed, with well-trained, attentive staff and a 2:1 guest/staff ratio. Minerva’s public spaces are designed with comfort and elegance in mind featuring plush car-peting, Oriental rugs, trompe l’oeil ceilings, rich wood paneling, and artwork gracing the walls. To support the enrichment focus of the ship, there’s a Regency-style library with a magnificent glass ceiling of painted flowers, leather armchairs, a fireplace, and over 4,000 books on history, arche-ology, wildlife, politics, art and biographies. Dubbed “the most scholarly ship afloat” by travel veteran Arthur Frommer, Swan Hellenic is the market leader in discovery cruising. Expert guest speakers are chosen to bring to life the histo-ry, culture, and notable aspects of the destinations visited. For instance, a cruise of the Amazon basin might have onboard a former British Ambassador to Brazil; a lecturer on volcanology might explain St. Lucia’s sulfur springs; and a wine connois-seur might lead a discussion on the wines of the Iberian peninsula. Both the lectures and the evening perfor-mances are held in the Lounge. In lieu of flashy Las Vegas-style musical numbers, Swan Hellenic opts for more refined entertainment such as acclaimed classical guitarist Adrian Azeulo, the Shakespeare Revue Company, and members of London’s Guildhall School of Music and Drama. Other onboard diversions include an outdoor

swimming pool, two Jacuzzis, a sunbathing deck, golf-driving net, jogging track, a fully-equipped spa fitness center and spa, a card room and an observation lounge. The clientele is mostly British with a mix of North Americans and other nationalities, and about 40% of them are repeat guests who know exactly what they want while at sea. In addition to the draw of the academically-oriented programs, they are attracted to Minerva’s unusual itineraries which offer hidden-gem destinations as well as must-see sites. Over the course of the year, the Minerva II sails to destinations in Northern Europe and the Baltics, the Mediterranean, the Black Sea, Northern Africa, the Caribbean and South America. Some new, off-the-beaten track destinations for 2006 and 2007 include Alta, on the Northern tip of Norway - a world UNESCO Heritage Site with 6,000-year-old rock carvings, as well as Sarande in Albania, and the Falkland Islands. With the exception of certain itineraries, all Swan Hellenic fares include charter flights from London to the port of embarkation and return flight to London. Inclusive are transfers, accom-modation and meals on board, port taxes, tai-lor-made shore excursions at each port of call, entrance fees to places visited, and tips and gratu-ities to staff onboard and ashore. On my Caribbean sailing, the itinerary included the Mayan sites of the Yucatan Peninsula, Cayman Islands, Port Antonio in Jamaica, Venezuela, Curacao, Trinidad and Barbados. I chose to dis-embark and spend extra time exploring Curacao, the largest island in the Dutch Antilles. Located 60 km north of Venezuela, the mainstays of the economy are petroleum refining, offshore finance and tourism. The multi-ethnic cultural legacy of Curacao is reflected in many of its distinctive historic build-ings, which meld African and Jewish influences along with European styles. The local dialect is

Minerva II Interiors Leather armchairs, wood paneling and tasteful colour schemes create an atmosphere of understated ele-gance. Stepping ashore is always an occasion – never intimidating, always welcoming.

Guest Speakers Expert guest speakers are chosen to bring to life the history, culture, and notable aspects of the destina-tions visited.


CARIBBEAN

Papiamentu, the best developed of the Creole languages in the Caribbean – a mix of languages from African slaves imported during the slave trade, and the island’s Dutch, Spanish, Portuguese, French and English colonizers. The capital Willemstad is divided into the Punda district in the east and Otrabanda in the west by St. Anna Bay, which leads to Schottegat Harbor. The Queen Emma Pontoon bridge, first opened in 1888, connects the two sides of the channel. Affectionately known as “The Swinging Old Lady”, this 168-meter pedestrian bridge swings open to allow for ship traffic at the bay. Perhaps the quintessential picture-postcard shot of Willemstad is the row of strikingly colorful Dutch-style gabled houses along the Punda water-front – the earliest of which are precise copies of mid-17th century Dutch buildings. Nearby Fort Amsterdam is now partially converted into a bus-tling promenade of seafront restaurants, duty-free international shops, and a floating fruit and vegetable market. Completing the picturesque waterfront scene are schooners which are tied up along the narrow canal leading to the Waaigat, a small yacht basin in Punda. Another noteworthy aspect of the island is that it is home to the oldest continuously inhabited Jewish community in the Western Hemisphere. The first Jewish settler arrived in 1634, and Dutch tolerance allowed the Sephardic Jewish commu-nity to flourish. By the 19th century, Curacao had the largest and most influential Jewish popula-tion in the Americas. The Mikve-Israel-Emanuel Synagogue, which celebrated its 350th anniver-sary in 2001, is the Western Hemisphere’s oldest synagogue in continuous use, and renowned for its sand floors and the oldest pipe organ in the Caribbean. Project Kura Hulanda, spanning an eight-block historic district along the waterfront on the Otrabanda side, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The brainchild of Dutch entrepreneur and vision-ary Jacob Gelt Dekker, and his business partner John Padget, this environmental and historical preservation project is comprised of a collection of 18th and 19th century Dutch colonial buildings which includes a boutique hotel, a museum, a conference center and an institute for advanced cultural studies. To facilitate economic empower-ment in developing countries through cottage industries, the project employs craftsmen from Africa, India, Indonesia and Colombia to supply furniture, iron gates and other furnishings. Nestled amongst gardens, cobblestone paths, and open courtyards filled with sculptures and native art, the Hotel Kura Hulanda features 100-individually-distinct rooms in 65 restored, pas-tel-hued buildings. Next door, the Museum Kura Hulanda is a world-class anthropological museum featuring a Darwinian chronicle of the Origin of Man, displays on West African empires, Antillean art, as well as fascinating exhibits on the history and legacy of the African slave trade leading to 20th century race relations in America. It’s clear that in addition to the natural appeals of sun, sand and scuba which many Caribbean islands are celebrated for, Curacao also offers an enthralling mix of history, cultures and architec-ture. A fitting and complementary end to a discov-ery cruise renowned for enriching the mind. YVC

For more information and reservations:1-877-800-7926 or www.swanhellenic.com [email protected]

About the Writer Yvonne Yorke is a luxury travel and lifestyles writer and

photographer. Hailing from a Hong Kong shipping family,

she’s a yachting enthusiast and the Mediterranean is

one of her favorite destinations.

[email protected]

Information

To charter this trip or any yacht you see in this issue of YV&C, please contact any of the

recommended charter brokers listed on page 8.

“ Curacao offers an enthralling mix of history, cultures and architecture”

Hotel Kura Hulanda Nestled amongst gardens, cobblestone paths, and open courtyards filled with sculptures and native art, the Hotel Kura Hulanda


EUROPE

Monster Hunting

Loch Ness and the Highlands of Scotland

Can You Find the Monster?“Nessie”, as the monster is affectionately known, continues to be enormously popular, and few people can walk past the loch with-out taking a moment to check for tell-tale breaks in the surface.

WRITTEN BY BILL RAY


EUROPE

The Highlands of Scotland might not be the

most obvious place to take a yacht, but a

combination of sea-canals and the largest

body of water in the UK make it a surpris-

ingly accessible destination for all but the

largest yacht, with a history which still

echoes today and some of the most spec-

tacular landscapes in the world.

Loch Ness contains more water than all the rivers and lakes in the UK put together: it’s over 700 feet deep and 23 miles long, and the local peat makes the water extremely murky and ideal for hiding prehistoric mon-

sters. The size of the Loch can make conditions remarkably sea-like, with waves generally around 3 feet but often larger. The top of the Loch is in the North East of Scotland, just south of Inverness, and along its length it heads South West diago-nally following a line known as The Great Glen, which bisects Scotland in a series of lochs and stunning valleys, towards Fort William and the sea lochs beyond. With so much of The Great Glen already navi-gable by boat it was an obvious opportunity to the Victorian canal builders, who could just link together the lochs to make a coast-to-coast con-nection and a short-cut from the North Sea to the Atlantic. The northern coast of Scotland has seen more than its share of shipwrecks over the years, not least the remnants of the Spanish Armada which had limped north to escape the British navy in 1588, and while one ship canal across Scotland had been finished in 1790, it was too far south to be useful for ships coming from Denmark, Norway or the other Scandinavian countries Anyone who has seen a British canal will be thinking of a narrow channel with towpaths for horse-drawn boats unsuited to anything but the calmest water, but here in Scotland when they build a canal they, don’t muck about; and with government money they could afford to think big. The explosion of the wool trade had made the Highlands valuable land, with only the inconve-nient presence of local people to disrupt the con-version of the whole area to sheep farming, a situa-tion which was easily resolved through land clear-ance left a lot of people homeless and provided a usefully-local workforce of over 3000 Highlanders for the construction of this epic sea-canal. Taking almost 20 years to complete, The Caledonian Canal was opened in 1822, but improvements to allow the passage of ships of up to 500 tonnes weren’t completed until 1947. The total length is 60 miles, though 38 of those are through the natural lochs of Locky, Oich and Ness. There are 29 locks, with drops of up to 8 feet at each and 10 bridges – all of which swing or lift to allow the passage of large craft. Immediately after it was completed the first visitors, including Queen Victoria, came to marvel at the scenery and the engineering, but as a com-mercial project the canal was undermined by the success of the railroad which was already linking the cities of Scotland together before the first boats transversed the country. Ships coming from the Scandinavian countries made use of the short cut, and still do, though today most traffic is pleasure craft and tours, with Loch Ness being a prime des-tination.

Monster Hunting

The Locks There are 29 locks, with drops of up to 8 feet at each and 10 bridges: all of which swing or lift to allow passage of large craft


EUROPE

All of the locks on the canal are manned, as are the bridges, and the keepers are gener-ally happy to chat about the local area and lend their experience to weather prediction, particularly important when setting out onto one of the lochs where conditions are much more sea-like. Larger boats have to be careful not to approach the edges of the loch, though where there is any risk a series of buoys clearly marks the navigable channel, and there are dozens of mooring spots on both sides. Most charters start off from Inverness and sail the length of the canal, including Loch Ness, before returning about a week later, but those feeling more adventurous can take their own boat, or a locally chartered seagoing ship, and use the canal as it was intended: to cross from the North Sea to the Atlantic. South of the Caledonian is the Clyde and Forth Canal, which crosses lowland Scotland at its narrowest point, a 35 mile stretch which was also intended as a short-cut for those wishing to avoid the northern coast. This canal fell into disuse and became blocked by developments and bridges, but as part of the millennium celebrations a massive work of reconstruction enabled it to re-open to shipping in 2002. Not only were roads re-routed and locks rebuilt, but one staircase of locks was replaced by the magnificent Falkirk Wheel, an engineering project to rival anything the Victorians devised. The completion of the Clyde and Forth means that a seagoing yacht can now literally go around Scotland, or at least a significant part of it, crossing the country twice and looping back to where it started while passing some of the most spectacular scenery. A more pedestrian approach is to start from either coast and spend some time exploring Loch Ness and the surrounding countryside.

The Loch is popular with all kinds of visitors, and there is a wide range of charters and tours available. Those looking to catch sight of the monster will be best placed on one of the organ-ised tours which feature boats equipped with underwater sonar and sounding equipment; the peat suspended in the water makes visual observation useless, unless the creature decides to surface nearby. The Loch Ness Monster was first recorded in 565, when it was driven off through the power of prayer by St. Columba who was in the region spreading Christianity to the largely-pagan Picts; there are different versions of the story but all culminate in the saint making the sign of the cross and invoking the name of the Lord to frighten off the beast. A book dated 1520 apparently makes reference to the fact that “Fraser (of Glenvackie) killed the last known dragon in Scotland, but no-one has yet managed to slay the monster of Loch Ness lately seen”, though there are no other references until 1933 when the owners of the Drumnadrochit Hotel claimed to have seen “an enormous animal roll-ing and plunging”; it may be argued that as hotel proprietors they stood to gain significantly from such a sighting, though their reluctance to dis-cuss it would seem to undermine any concern of conspiracy. It was this sighting which sparked off the international interest, and investigations by various august, and some rather less august, bodies which so far have turned up nothing but some clever frauds and some of the best-mapped loch-bed in the world. Despite the lack of appearances “Nessie”, as the monster is affectionately known by the locals, continues to be enormously popular both locally and world-wide, and few people can walk past the loch without taking a moment to check for tell-tale breaks in the surface.

Urquhart Castle Originally built by Edward 1st after his victory over the Scots at Dunbar in 1296, it was used as a base from which to dominate the whole region with brutal efficiency.

Picturesque ReflectionsLoch Ness contains more water than all the rivers and lakes in the UK put together: it’s over 700 feet deep and 23 miles long

“ it is also possible to charter research vessels equipped with the latest underwater- sensing equipment”

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EUROPE

Aside from the organised monster-hunt-ing tours it is also possible to charter research vessels equipped with the latest underwater-sensing equipment, but most people will be happier with a traditional cruiser such as those supplied by Caley Cruisers, who will hire you a comfortable craft for a trip the length of the Caledonian and back, as well as providing guid-ance and training (essential for some of us). They are based in Inverness, at the top of the canal, and have a range of boats up to 10-berth, though you would want to be amongst very close friends to fill one. If skippering, and crew-ing, your own boat sounds a lot like hard work, then you might prefer the Hotel Barge Scottish Highlander: fitted out more like a country house than a ship, her crew of 4 provides a full service to 8 passengers including gourmet food and visits to all the important sites around the Loch on a week’s tour, though the itinerary can be modified to suit you. The more adventurous can charter a true sailing yacht such as the Eala Bhan (Gaelic for White Swan), a 50-ton wooden herring drifter which has been refitted to have 5 cabins into which 12 close friends can be squeezed, or fewer less-well-acquainted people can travel in comfort. As a seagoing sailboat the Eala Bhan can leave the confines of the canals and lochs to explore the Scottish islands and coastline, so isn’t limited to in-land monster-hunting, and while being reliant on the wind might be considered a drawback, it’s rare the day when at least a stiff breeze can’t be relied upon. Regardless of the kind of vessel you are standing on, the landscape is formidable and it’s easy to understand what successive armies since the Romans have found it all but impen-etrable. Right on the edge of Loch Ness is Urquhart Castle, and no spot better demonstrates the struggle between Scot and Englishman for control of the Highlands. Originally built by Edward I after his victory over the Scots at Dunbar in 1296, it was used as a base from which to dominate the whole region with brutal efficiency. When William Wallace rose against the English, the castle was attacked and fell; changing hands for the first time as the English were kicked out of Scotland. Edward didn’t take this well, and with a mas-sive army he laid siege to the castle and it was once again in English hands. Over the next 400 years it repeatedly changed hands with the occupants hardly having time to hang the flags before it fell again. All these suc-cessful attacks might give the impression of a badly fortified defence, but it was more the enormously important location: overlooking Loch Ness and able to control shipping on the loch, which made it such an important prize. The last residents, English, finally blew the

place up to avoid it falling into Scottish hands, though enough remains to make a picturesque ruin full of history and intrigue. A superb exhibition covering the history of Loch Ness, and the castle, is located nearby and there are moorings right beside the castle. While Culloden isn’t actually on the Loch itself, being slightly to the North on the other side of Inverness, no visit to Scotland is com-plete without seeing the site of the last battle on UK soil and the place where Bonny Prince Charlie’s hopes were finally laid to rest in 1746, even if the Prince himself escaped despite a 30,000 pound reward on his head. The site has been re-created, making it painfully obvious that the Bonny Prince was no tactician as the legendary Highland Charge works best down open hillsides, not across swampy moors cov-ered in knee-high gorse. There are numerous other sites along the sides of the loch, including stone-age ruins and natural wonders, and we haven’t even men-tioned golf. Every golf course around the world is recreating a patch of Scotland, the home of the game, and it is possible to see familiar forms in the landscape. Golf is taken very seriously in Scotland, and some of the courses can trace their history back hundreds of years; in many cases it is still possible to play a round if pre-booked. For those not bringing their own yacht, Inverness is connected by air to the rest of the UK, including the major London airports, and for those wanting to travel in a bit more style the overnight sleeper train leaves London every evening and enables you to wake up, draw the curtains, and see the mountains sliding by, though the return journey can be depressing. And if Loch Ness grabs you and won’t let go, then you can get a managed apartment from The Highland Club with views of the Loch and its own mooring, for your own monster hunt-ing or just a bit of fishing. Or you can do what I did and just give in to the call of the moun-tains, glens and lochs, making the Highlands of Scotland my home. YVC

• Caley Cruses: www.caleycruisers.com• The Highland Club: www.thehighlandclub.co.uk• The Scottish Highlander: www.hotelbarges.co.uk/scotland/highlander• Eala Bha: www.highlandvoyages.co.uk

The Highland Club The Highland Club with views of the Loch and its own mooring, for your own monster hunting or just a bit of fishing

Information


recommended charter brokers listed on page 8.

About the Writer Bill Ray, former editor-in-chief (and continuing

distinguished contributor to) Wireless Business &

Technology magazine, has been developing wire-

less applications for over 20 years on just about

every platform available. Heavily involved in Java

since its release, he developed some of the first

cryptography applications for Java and was a

founder of JCP Computer Services, a company

later sold to Sun Microsystems. At Swisscom he

was responsible for the first Java-capable DTV set-

top box, and currently holds the position of head

of Enabling Software at 02, a UK network operator

and currently works as a freelance writer based in

the Highlands of Scotland.

[email protected]


COMPANY PROFILE

In 1983, Christos returned to Athens after liv-ing abroad for many years and established the naval architecture company AlphaMarine

Ltd., associating a fine team of yacht designers, naval architects, product managers and engineers to provide services to the yachting industry with new builds and impressive refits to a wide range of mega yachts over 100ft. Alphamarine, firmly established to this day, still provides full services in surveys, inspections, feasibility studies, evalua-tions, consultancy work, design, engineering, the technical supervision of refits, complete Project Management (turnkey) for newbuilds, and Safety Management (ISM/ISPS). In 1992 Christos sold his share in AlphaMarine (constructor of the Mega Yacht Annaliesse launched in 2004) and built his own yacht, the displacement yacht Lady K.K, for personal and charter use. Together with the ownership compa-ny Afromarine Ltd, he established a new personal company to retain the activities in yacht manage-ment for private and charter yachts and expand in yacht charter business with a background of a per-sonal clientele. In 2000 his company was renamed to Afroudakis Yachting with major activity in the crewed private yacht charter industry. Christos Afroudakis has extensive knowledge in the shipping and yachting industry owing to his vast experience in mega yacht and ship construc-tion/refits. Over the years, due to the extensive knowledge in technical management and impec-cable service and standards provided, our fleet of charter and management yachts has steadily expanded to meet the needs of our clients. Afroudakis Yachting handles the majority of the crewed charter and private yachts in conjunc-tion with charter yacht management and broker-

age in Greece and steadily increases their share in the Mediterranean market. Christos’ passion for yacht design has always remained the driving force in his desire to share his dreams. This is why Christos always proposes to prospective buyers of a custom yacht to benefit the enormous business opportunities in Mediterranean and buyers to combine business with pleasure. Traditionally, Afroudakis Yachting provides cli-ents with memorable yachting experiences filled with the magic of the Mediterranean. Our family team at Afroudakis Yachting is committed to pro-viding our clients with the comfort and luxury of a private cruise, carefully planned and managed with the Afroudakis stamp of excellence. No one knows the legendary yachting playground of the Greek Islands as we do.... No one lives in the whole Mediterranean area more than any Greek does. Our team participates in all yachting Shows and tourism exhibitions in the Mediterranean and worldwide annually to inspect yachts and crew, to retain a close business relationship with the owners and central agents, to learn the news in the market. Within our pages you can browse for a wide variety of charter yachts in the Mediterranean and find special vacation offers and business oppor-tunities. Our family team combines the extensive knowledge of our products, the professionalism, and the meraki* to respond perfectly to our cli-ents’ personal needs. We will confirm that we are fast, efficient and caring. In our pages in www.yachting-mediterranean.com you may browse for a wide variety of charter yachts in the Mediterranean offered for charter or sale and same time you seek for vacation offers to benefit, if you wish, from business opportunities in Mediterranean. YVC

AfroudakisAfroudakis Yachting is a licensed company by GNTO (Greek National Organization of

Tourism) based in Athens, Greece, and was in founded in 1978 by Christos Afroudakis, a

Naval Architect - Marine Engineer and respected member of the following Associations:

• The Hellenic Yacht Brokers Association (HYBA)

• The Hellenic Professional Yacht Charters Association (HYPOA)

• SETE (Hellenic Tourism Enterpreises)

• ASTA (Association of American Travel Agents)

The www.yachting-mediterranean.com pages were created in April 2005 by Afroudakis Yachting Ltd in Athens, Greece. These pages present the luxury yacht-ing lifestyle in Greece and all the popular Mediterranean yachting destinations. These real time yachting pages, updated every day, promote a concise and up to date list of the beautiful classical and modern yachts for charter and for sale. We also fea-ture some fantastic new projects currently in progress and have the most current infor-mation in regards to business opportunities offered within the yachting market. Charter rates are listed as per the official high season Price List by the yacht owners/ cen-tral agent. Low season rates and special offers are always quoted upon individual inquiries. Editorials in yacht projects and yacht designs are presented in the press release space, serving only an informative purpose. They are selected to be admired by visitors as we did. There is no connection between the owners or authorized parties who have kindly offered the material to us in the pro-motional pages with Afroudakis Yachting. Services on land transportation are promot-ed as part of a well-structured yachting vacation, provided by Afroudakis Yachting and associates. Yachts for sale are listed upon owners’ approval in the Brokerage Section. The Forum is a free advisory column for our clientele, owners of yachts or prospective buyers and yachting travelers of Mediterranean. Your mes-sages can be listed only upon your desire but will be replied in your personal account in any case.

About the Website

A Greek name meaning the passion for perfectionism

Our fleet consists of over 150 charter yachts from $ 6000/week - $ 840,000/week ! Our yachts based in Greece are performing charters in all Mediterranean !

m/y Lady KK 100ft 6 cabins 12 guests from $ 44,800/week

m/y Elias 90ft 5 cabins 10 guests m/s Odyssey 100ft 7 cabins 14 guests from US $ 44,800/week from US $ 32,500/week

Cruise the Greek islands and enjoy the beauty of picturesque landscapes, historical places monuments. Swim in crystal and safe waters... No one knows Greece better than we do…

Head Office : 14, Sirinon str. P.Faliro Athens 175 61 Greece Tel. : +30-210-9883595 +30-210-9813667 +30-210-9838236 Fax : +30-210-9883277 e-mail : [email protected] www.afroudakisyachting.com


TURQUOISE COAST

Turkey: Sailing Through History Dreaming of somewhere warm and exotic

Let Turkey light up your imagination. Three great things embody Turkey. Just a four hour

flight away from international London, it has a culture which is profoundly different, dis-

tinctly unfamilar. A land on the very cusp of Europe and Asia, with two heads simultane-

ously facing both east and west, it embodies the magic and mysticism of the orient. Once

nomads from Central Asia, the Turks were for centuries the middlemen of the world, famed

merchants uniting three continents - Europe, Africa, and Asia, as far east as China. Today,

its people are famed for their warmth and hospitality, a gift of their nomadic ancestry and

Islam’s code of respect for strangers in a strange land.

Turkey: Sailing Through History

WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED

BY PETER SOMMER


The second great thing about Turkey is its age. The place is steeped in history. It’s the site of some of the very earliest cities, like Çatal Hoyuk, stretching back 10,000 years. Ever after it was a veritable crossroads of

civilisations. When archaeologists dig in Turkey they are confronted by layers upon layers of peo-ples and cultures, from Hittite fortifications to Byzantine churches. Before I’d even set foot there, Turkey conjured up images of all the things that I longed to see, great sun-burnt plains on which ancient battles were fought, theatres where Greek philosophers declaimed, and the marble clad ruins of Rome’s imperial ambitions. It’s widely said that Turkey has more and better preserved Greek and Roman archaeological sites than Greece and Italy combined. The landscape is

simply riddled with ruins, many of which are vir-tually untouched. You can literally stroll through an olive grove and stumble upon a Greek temple still standing proud, and have the place all to yourself. Many people say part of Turkey’s charm is that it is like Greece was thirty years ago. The third fantastic thing about Turkey is the landscape. About three and a half times the size of Britain, it has almost the same population, leaving vast areas wide, empty, and pretty much as nature intended. Add to that soaring mountain ranges, brillant white sunlight, and a vast coastline stretching along three seas – the Black Sea, the Aegean, and the Mediterranean – and you have a truly marvellous holiday destination. I first went to Turkey eleven years ago, on a 2,000 mile walking adventure, to retrace Alexander the Great’s footsteps from Troy to the battlefield of Issus,

Didyma Temple The colossal temple of Apollo at Didyma ranks as on the biggest and greatest in the Greek world.

View from KaleThe view from the top of the Ottoman castle at Kale in Lycia must rank as one of the most beautiful in the Mediterranean


TURQUOISE COAST

where the epic warrior defeated the Persians for a second time. A five-month journey took me down the western Aegean coast past some of the giant cities of classical history, like Ephesus, Priene, and Miletus; deep into the interior through tiny farming villages where I was feted as an honoured guest; and south through the peaks and valleys of the Taurus mountains, where donkeys are still a favoured mode of transport. A decade later and my love affair with Turkey still beats strong. While it was walking that brought me to Turkey, today I prefer a very dif-ferent way of travelling: sailing. With some 5,178 miles of coastline, Turkey is a paradise for cruis-ing. Its south and west coasts offer perhaps the most spectacular sailing in the Mediterranean, full of craggy coves and sleepy fishing villages, bustling harbours and deserted bays shaped like giant theatres with breathtaking vistas. Littered with antiquities, protected by law, large sections of it have remained undeveloped, still lapped by the clear waters on which the giants of ancient history sailed: Achilles, Cleopatra, Julius Caesar... In places, mountains of limestone drop sheer into the sea, elsewhere pine-forested peninsulas stretch out like sinuous fingers, hid-ing a cornucopia of golden beaches, deep gulfs, and tiny offshore islands. With such a stunning everchanging backdrop, I can’t think of a better way to see Turkey, to explore its culture, discov-er such rich ruins, and drink in the landscape, than to set sail on a gulet. Spared the need to constantly pack, unpack, and change hotels, instead one travels in luxurious style. Perhaps the key thing for me is that it’s travel the way the ancients usually did. It makes thinking about the past altogether easier. Out on the waves, time can literally dissolve in the water, two mil-lennia can disappear from the mind.

A mad keen sailor, Peter Ustinov once wrote:

“The sea not only sharpens a sense of beauty and of alarm, but also a sense of history. You are confronted with precisely the sight which met Caesar’s eyes, and Hannibal’s, without having to strain the imagination by subtracting televi-sion aerials from the skyline and filling in the gaps in the Collosseum...off the magical coast of Turkey you rediscover what the world was like when it was empty...and when pleasures were as simple as getting up in the morning...and every day is a journey of discovery.”

Gulets are really the vessel of choice for explor-ing the Turkish coast. Handbuilt from wood, usu-ally pine from local forests, they’re often as much as 80 feet long and sleep between six and 16 guests in attractive double or twin cabins. They tend to have three or four capable and helpful crew mem-bers, captain, cook, and one or two mates, who do all the work allowing passengers to relax. Most gulets have a spacious main saloon, a large rear deck where meals are served, and sun loungers on the roof at the front. The majority operate for the most part under motor, but some are also designed for proper sailing. When the sails go up, and the engine turns silent, you have the same soundtrack as Odysseus on Homer’s “wine dark sea”, the slap-ping of water on the side of the ship, and the wind rushing through the canopy. Aboard a gulet, one travels in the foot-steps of ancient Greek pilgrims en route to an oracular temple like Didyma, or in the wake of Byzantine merchants carrying a cargo of glass, like the Serce Limani shipwreck now in Bodrum museum, or like Roman tourists on their way to see the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus, one of the seven ancient wonders of the world.

“ With some 5,178 miles of coastline, Turkey is a paradise for cruising. Its south and west coasts offer perhaps the most spectacular sailing in the Med”

Celsus library at Ephesus A monumental library of marble adorns one of the cross roads in Ephesus. (pictured here).

The Gulet Almira Hand crafted in wood in Turkey, moored in a quiet cove on the Carian coast.

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TURQUOISE COAST

I remember the first time I visited the ancient city of Knidos, a sensational site for maritime trade perched at the very tip of the Datca peninsula, between Bodrum and Marmaris. We sailed and moored up in the city’s old commercial harbour, just as merchants from Athens, Rhodes, and cities right across the Mediterranean would have done over 2,000 years ago. My fellow travellers and I gawped in wonder, as we eased into the ancient port, and its monuments took shape: the small theatre, the rows of houses, the miles of fortifications climbing up a steep ridge. We anchored where countless vessels had previously – large cargo

ships, local fishing boats, perhaps even some fighting triremes. Even today the ancient moor-ing stones where they tied up are still visible, projecting out from the harbour walls. One of the defining characteristics of a gulet trip is the back-to-nature appreciation of the simple things: the clean fresh air, the canopy of stars at night, the time to lounge about and read. Swimming in the crystal waters of the celebrated turquoise coast is of course one of the frequent highlights, and there are usually windsurfers, kayaks, and snorkelling gear avail-able for the slightly more adventurous. Alongside the archaeology and the relaxed atmosphere, one of the greatest delights is the food. Turkish food is justly famed, often ranked as one of the three pre-eminent cuisines in the world alongside French and Chinese. The focus is all about simple but incredibly fresh local ingredients, often grown organically or raised free range. You only have to taste a tomato in Turkey to see the difference. It’s surprising how even on the smallest gulets, out of the tiniest of galleys, the boat’s cook can produce such a variety of fresh local delicacies. A Turkish breakfast typically consists of bread, toma-toes, cucumbers, olives, cheese, eggs, yoghurt and honey. Lunch and dinner are usually one or two main courses, accompanied by salads and mezes, Turkey’s speciality starters, includ-ing cacik (a garlic and cucumber yoghurt), biber dolma (stuffed peppers), and sigara borek (white cheese and herbs in a cigarette shaped filo pastry wrap). Fruit is a mainstay item, and ranges through the seasons from cherries and strawberries, to melon and figs. But with so many miles of coast, where do you choose to sail? Three areas are particular favourites of mine. First is the ancient region of Lycia, a giant bulge into the Mediterranean on Turkey’s underbelly. Situated between Fethiye and Antalya, it’s an area oozing with myths and brimming with archaeology. Here, behind the soaring Taurus mountains, an extraordi-nary culture and a fiercely independent people developed. Their funerary architecture, unlike anything else in the world, still litters their once prosperous ports. This was the fabled land of the Chimaera, a dreaded monster from Greek mythology, described as early as Homer: “She was of divine race, not of men, in the

fore part a lion, at the rear a serpent, and in the middle a goat, breathing forth in terrible manner the force of blazing fire.”

The legend probably owes its origins to an extraordinary site high up in the hills. Sacred since time immemorial, it was the main sanc-tuary of the port city of Olympus. Here flames

Kaputas Beach A natural cleft in the sheer mountains of Lycia offers a perfect beach for relaxing and swim-ming.

“ I can’t think of a better way to see Turkey than to set sail on a gulet... Spared the need to constantly pack, unpack, and change hotels, instead one travels in luxurious style”


TURQUOISE COAST

leap out of the ground, a phenomenon aris-ing from a subterranean pocket of natural gas which spontaneously ignites on contact with the outside air. Not only is a gulet cruise the best way to explore such an essentially maritime civilisation, sometimes it’s the only way. Even now, there are tiny coastal villages which are accessible only by sea. One favourite is the sleepy hamlet of Kale, on the southern tip of Lycia. Above a few piers where small fishing boats jostle, rises a ramshackle series of houses made from ancient stones. Dominating the entire scene is a mighty Ottoman fortress built 550 years ago to overpower the Christian knights of Rhodes and secure the all important sea lanes between Constantinople and Jerusalem. The cas-tle, however, was a latecomer. 1,800 years before, a small town called Simena was perched here. Its small Greek style theatre sits slap in the middle of the Ottoman castle, and all through the village are tombs hewn into the rock, and sarcophagi stand-ing ten feet tall. A second great area for sailing is west of Lycia, the ancient region of Caria, between Bodrum and Fethiye. This was the ancient realm of Mausolus, a powerful dynasty 2,400 years ago. A strategically vital region, densely packed in antiquity with rich cities, it was jeal-ously guarded and sought after. Alexander the Great liberated it from Persia, Rhodes sought to annexe it into her own empire, and the leg-acy of Crusader castles still speaks of the epic battle that raged along this coast between rival religions, Christianity and Islam. Today, there remains a wonderful blend of architectural and historic marvels. The exquisite temple tombs

of Caunos, carved into a cliff face by masons dangling from ropes; the monumental city of Knidos, famed for Praxiteles’ infamous statue of Aphrodite, the first female nude in history; and Halicarnassus itself, site of the fabled mau-soleum and the mighty fortress of St. Peter. A third glorious area for cruising is ancient Ionia, to the north of Bodrum. Along this stretch of coast developed a civilisation of quite excep-tional brilliance. In the centuries before Alexander the Great, the dynamic cities of Ionia helped lay the foundations of Greek literature, science, and philosophy, never mind architecture. Under Rome, these cities became ever more rich, prosperous, and beautiful - full of the fin-est temples, theatres and markets that money could buy. The highlights are plentiful: from the pretty little harbour of Myndos, where Cassius fled after murdering Julius Caesar; to the mar-vellously preserved Hellenistic city of Priene, where the houses, streets, and public buildings are laid out across a hillside in a perfect grid; and of course, Ephesus, capital of Roman Asia. This was one of the very first cities in the world to have street lighting. The site is magnificent, a cornucopia of colonnaded streets, agoras, baths, private villas, a theatre for 28,000, and an extraordinary library. If you fancy exploring some of the world’s finest ancient wonders, spring or autumn is the best time to go. April and early May sees Turkey decked out with a stunning display of wildflow-ers. From the end of May through the start of June the sea becomes swimmable before the summer heat scorches, while September through October is perfect for leisurely bathing. YVC

About the WriterPeter Sommer runs a specialist travel company

offering archaeological tours, cruises, and yacht

charters in Turkey. An archaeologist and documentary

producer/director he has worked on many acclaimed

BBC/PBS/CNN TV series including In the footsteps

of Alexander the Great, Commanding Heights: the

battle for the world economy, and Millennium: a

thousand years of history. His most recent series,

Tales from the Green Valley, about life on a Welsh

farm in the year 1620, was shown to rave reviews

last autumn on BBC2 in the UK. For more informa-

tion please visit www.petersommer.com

[email protected]

Swimming off stern The tiny coves and pretty bays of the Turkish coast make for a swimmer’s paradise.

Sogut Goats Typical scenery along the unspoilt coast of Caria.

Information


recommended charter brokers listed on page 8

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©COPYRIGHT 2006 FIRST NEW ENGLAND FINANCIAL© IS A WHOLLY-OWNED SUBSIDIARY OF NORTH FORK BANK©, A $60 BILLION INSTITUTION AND THE COUNTRY’S 16TH LARGEST COMMERCIAL LENDING BANK. WWW.NORTHFORKBANK.COM

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AVENTURE CHARTER

sport Outfitting & Unique Elegance

The newly refitted megayacht

Absinthe offers a charter

experience entirely sui generis


Cruising the western coasts of the

Americas, M/Y Absinthe accents rugged

outdoorsmanship in her sporting offerings,

yet is graced by furnishings and amenities

fit for royalty: you!

WRITTEN BY SCOTT ROSE


sport Outfitting & Unique Elegance

Absinthe. The very name conjures up images of individualistic elite transported in highest style to where none had previously ventured. Vincent van Gogh, Edouard Manet, Pablo Picasso and Ernest Hemingway all were inspired by absinthe, a liqueur distilled with the Old World plant Artemisia absinthium, famed for inducing a singular inebriation marked by a heightened, ultra-clear perception of the cosmos. Now, there is an exploration-grade megayacht distinguished by the name Absinthe.

Originally built in Spain in 1973 by Astilleros y Talleres Celaya, she was acquired by Sea to Sky Adventures and Megayacht Adventures and then given a comprehensive, years-long refit rendering her superior to many a brand new yacht. Thanks to Absinthe’s helipad, charter guests may take advantage of Sea to Sky’s “Double Mobility Concept.” While there certainly are other megayachts with helipads, few of them offer copter sightseeing of otherwise unreachable terrain and no other offers heliskiing. Absinthe’s cruising grounds are the western coast of the Americas. During heliskiing season, from early February through the end of April, she travels along the British Colombian shoreline, her copter


ADVENTURE CHARTER

whisking skiers up to lofty mountain summits where virgin boot-top powder fills wide open snowbowls surrounded by towering ancient glaciers. Après-ski indulgences may include a relaxing soak in the yacht’s fly bridge 80-hydro-jet massage Jacuzzi with its towel warmer, fiber-optic lighting system and first-class entertain-ment center. The ambitious charterer will naturally also want to book Absinthe during the period from September to February when she explores Panama, Costa Rica, and the Sea of Cortés between the Baja Peninsula and mainland Mexico. The Sea of Cortés is among the world’s most wondrous ecosystems, host to California Gray Whales, giant manta rays, leatherback sea turtles, and tuna and other fishes in schools over 100 miles long. In Costa Rica, the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve, seen from a helicopter, is an unrivalled exhibition of nature’s bounty. The months of June to August find Absinthe traveling the Inside Passage of Alaska and the northern coast of British Colombia. While urbanites are huddled around their central air-conditioners at the height of the dog days of summer, the Absinthe’s guests can be enjoying a champagne and smoked salmon picnic on a sparkling, deep-blue, massive glacier. Using the AStar B2 helicopter, they can then explore spectacular wilderness areas, or enjoy a jaunt in a sea kayak, marvel at the sight of humpback whales, or stay aboard to be pampered with a world-class, spa quality, professional rubdown in a dedicated massage room. Absinthe’s interior boasts an uncommon visual warmth, a fulfillment of the vision of

Karin Civitella, head of Civitella Design. Ms Civitella says that she favors voluptuous inte-riors reflecting joie de vivre while manifesting the feel of a gracious home. She is given to blending beautiful, classic antique furnishings with ultra high-tech details. For the outdoor areas of the yacht, she chose pieces and mate-rials that harmonize with natural settings. Ms. Civitella further says that her team’s mandate in designing Absinthe was to bring the refinement of European style and service to remote areas of the West Coast of the Americas. If you notice a fully-developed and integrated aesthetic aboard Absinthe, it is entirely due to Karin Civitella’s intense involvement in this project; she even designed the crew’s uniforms. Smoked oak wood flooring throughout the yacht themes perfectly with the extraor-dinary natural settings that Absinthe visits, while also setting a tone of great luxury. Hand-carved solid mahogany, maple wood and oak furnishings, paneling, displays, and cabinets give an aristocratic impression. The al fresco dining table is complemented by a wet bar topped with prized Brazilian river stone granite. Many other materials whose prestige stems from their great beauty and rarity are found aboard this megayacht. The sophisticated evening ambience of the bar area is augmented by the yellow tourmaline marble top and illuminated onyx in the bar. All through the vessel there are royal blue draperies with gold embroidery piping, dou-bled with voile de jour (Fr. for ‘daylight veil’) window coverings. In the sky lounge are Persian style divans whose luxuriant fabric covering includes touches of silk, while in the media room there is a welcoming blue leather Chesterfield modu-lar couch, custom-made in Tunisia. Soft velvets upholster the red Nautilus dining chairs in the dining room as well as the Carousel blue and yellow swivel chairs and asymmetric love seats in the bar. Bathroom countertops are of local native-carved pewter; doorknobs are of brushed nickel. Bathroom fixtures and acces-sories are from the esteemed ateliers of the French company Herbeau, and namely their Pompadour/Gargoyles collection. Dutch Harcolor Eden/Tulip light fixtures add an artistic whiff of the moderne: blue tulips for mood in the common areas and white tulips in staterooms for ambiance and reading. The staterooms are beautified by one-of-a-kind, handmade silk Persian rugs. All these regal appointments make an appropriate setting for Absinthe’s many works of original art. Heidi Taillefer, a prominent, con-temporary artist from Montréal, is represented by “The Horse,” an oil painting in the bar area and by drawings elsewhere on board. Suzan

Interior Design Absinthe’s interior boasts an uncommon visual warmth, a fulfillment of the vision of Karin Civitella, head of Civitella Design.

Theater Room

Owner’s Suite

Library

Realize the Dream FRACTIONAL OWNERSHIP OF ONE OF THEMOST EXCEPTIONAL YACHTS IN THE WORLD

This offer is not directed to residents in any state [or the offer is void in any states] in which registration of the timeshare plan is required but in which registration requirements have not yet been met. This advertising material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of timeshare interests.

866-577-7701FAX: 727-372-1972 • [email protected]

WWW.LLATSEA.COM

Luxurious Lifestyles at Sea4830 W. KENNEDY BLVD., SUITE 695

TAMPA, FL 33609


ADVENTURE CHARTER

Point, an acclaimed artist of British Colombia’s Coast Salish, contributed a serigraphy collec-tion. Choice pieces of native art placed around Absinthe’s interior impart a stronger sense of place, of a West Coast wonderland. Many of the drawings and paintings aboard Absinthe depict animals and thus accord with her mission of exploring unspoiled regions rich in wildlife. A design developed expressly for Absinthe, modeled on M.C. Escher’s celebrated “Metamorphosis,” depicting interlocking imag-es of swimming fish and fowl in flight symbol-izes Absinthe’s double mobility concept and is used on fabrics on the padded headboards in the ship’s staterooms. A statue of Vincent Van Gogh also graces the quarters, placed here because Van Gogh was an absinthe enthusiast. A myth attached to the beverage in the early 20th century, yet was naught but a myth. Thujone, the chemical compound thought responsible for absinthe’s unusual inebriating qualities, is present in the drink at levels such that to ingest enough to cause enduring systemic harm, the drinker would first go into delirium tremens. Sage oil, for example, extracted from the cooking herb, is 50% thujone, yet was never outlawed. Still, the disinhibiting nature of absinthe was such that the poet Ernest Dowson quipped “Absinthe makes the tart grow fonder.” If you are, none-theless, disinclined to sample absinthe straight, you might enjoy its essence in the unforget-table confection that is sabayon à l’absinthe de Pontarlier Happily, master chef Steve Ridley is on hand to prepare whatever delicacy you may desire to cordon bleu standards. For years, Steve was the Executive Chef at The Bear Foot Bistro in Whistler, British Colombia. Praise was heaped on him by many trustworthy gastronomes. Bon Appétit magazine said: ““The buzz is that Whistler offers the best eating of any ski resort on the continent. Those high standards are met beautifully at Bear Foot Bistro.” A critic for the London Times declared that at Bear Foot, he enjoyed the best meal of his life.

Steve Ridley is expert in Pacific Northwest culinary culture. Committed to giving Absinthe’s guests peak experiences even when they are not in the mountains heliskiing, he painstakingly seeks the finest local ingredients for his creations. Representative might be his Artic caribou short loin, wrapped in Bayonne ham, served with blackberry jus and a veg-etable terrine. He furthermore has a métier for pairing wines with food, and frequently prepares tasting dinners in which the wines not only harmonize perfectly with the dishes they accompany but also with each other. As a wine to accompany the caribou short loin, Steve rec-ommends Penfolds Grange 1998, an Australian vintage so prized that epicures in France order cases on-line. In Absinthe’s climate-controlled wine cellar, Steve and his sommelier have a resource any oenologist might envy. Every chateau worth the detour is represented, including Petrus, Haut-Brion, and Chateau Margaux. An out-standing collection of fine champagnes is an embarrassment of riches: Krug 1973 and 1979, Louis Roederer Cristal 1977 and 1979, Bollinger 1973 and 1975; one feels better just reading the list. Imagine being able to choose from 1896, 1900, 1908, and all years between 1920 to 1972 of the incomparable Armagnac from Chateau de Laubade. I asked Chef Steve how he would meet a request for Tournedos Rossini. He responded by saying that using Kobe beef and seared foie gras with grilled Portobello mushrooms, all atop a focaccia crouton and served with a red wine veal jus, he would prepare a world-class exemplar of Tournedos Rossini. It goes without saying that Steve’s creations receive the most elegant of presentations. Bernardaud, Limoges porcelain dinnerware and Puiforcat silverware are used for fine din-ing. For more casual al fresco meals, Rosenthal Dune china and Italian Mezzo silver flatware are employed. Wines are poured in Riedel crys-tal decanters and stemware. Manning Absinthe’s state-of-the-art, exqui-sitely designed and furnished pilothouse is Captain Roy Cooper. Hailing from South Africa, and thoroughly certified and experienced at the very highest levels of nautical handling and management, Captain Roy is at the center of the soul of the Absinthe experience. He cites the lure of the sea as a constant in his life. I asked him about his love of the ocean: “It’s romantic. It’s dangerous. It’s fulfilling in every sense of the word. It’s in my blood and is part of what makes me who I am. There is nothing comparable. That’s why I go to sea.” Speaking of how Absinthe handles, Captain Roy says: “At sea, she moves like a superstar on ice. In port, she moves gently under your feet.

“ Absinthe’s crew will see that you are pampered before, during, and after your activities”

EXPERIENCE THE POWER OF PARTNERSHIP

WWW.YPI.CO.UK

M.Y. “LA COVETA”38m (124ft) Heesen, Holland, 1992 US$ 8,000,000 – Joint Central Agent

M.Y. “ANATOLIA”48m (156ft) Proteksan,Turkey, 2001 US$ 10,950,000 – Joint Central Agent

INTERNATIONAL YACHT BROKERAGE • WORLD-WIDE CHARTER • YACHT MANAGEMENT & ADMINISTRATION • ISM • ISPS • CREW AGENCY • REFIT & NEW CONSTRUCTION SUPERVISION

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Yacht Vacations & Charters 1/2/06 4:25 pm Page 1


ADVENTURE CHARTER

She likes a firm hand, and I give it to her.” He points out that the wood-paneled pilothouse is furnished with comfy seats and unique antique pieces to allow guests to observe operations, perhaps while sipping a fresh-brewed, exotic coffee while watching the sun appear over the horizon. “A guest can be made to feel super-extra special, sipping a flute of finest champagne while seated in the ornate Speaker’s Chair, late of the Quebec Assembly,” he says: “Do not trouble yourself with the comings and goings of the crew. Just sit. Be yourself and enjoy this perfect moment in time.” Of course, the quality of service expe-rienced by guests is dependent on the Captain’s professional management of his crew. Here’s what Captain Roy says of his style: “My job is not just about giving orders. It’s also about being compassionate, about understanding, about giving support when support is needed. I encourage spiritual health in my crew. I listen more than I talk. I exercise unimpeachable honesty and integrity in all my dealings with everyone. Therefore, my crew members follow when I lead. Content in their lot, they make our guests feel sincerely and cordially welcomed for the duration of their stay.” Whether you wish to schuss down moun-tain tops in a British Colombian heliskiing adventure or race a Sea-Doo wave runner atop the Sea of Cortés, Absinthe’s employees will see that you are pampered before, dur-ing, and after your sporting activities. After your charter vacation, you’ll surely agree that there is nothing at all wrong with being Absinthe-minded. Comprehensive information relating to Absinthe may be found on Sea to Sky’s website, www.motoryachtabsinthe.com. The company maintains a toll-free phone, 1-866-935-3228. Fraser Yachts Worldwide handle bookings; Patrcia Saks is in the Ft. Lauderdale office, (954) 712-7118, while Solenn de Braux is in Fraser’s New York office, (212) 336-7841. YVC

About the Writer Scott Rose attended Harvard University at Master’s

level. He writes frequently on luxury markets and

travel. His work has appeared in such prestigious

venues as Bon Appetit and Power magazines.

[email protected]

Year: ....................... 1973 / Refit 2002 – 2005(A Major 24-month Refit Started In July and

August 2002 In Florida (Engines and Generators) snd Continued For

22 Months At Allied ShipyardIn Vancouver, Canada, From September 2003

To June 2005).Type: ..........Luxurious Expedition Megayacht

Built To Lloyds +100 A1 Standards.Status & Classification: ......... Irs Commercial

Class, SOLAS Safety RegulationsCompliant (12 Passengers).

Port Of Registry: .......................Panama City, Republic Of Panama.

Loa: ..............................................201’(61.3m)Beam: ............................................. 31’(9.5m)Draft: .......................................... 12’6” (3.8m)Gross Tonnage: ........................... 752 TonnesDisplacement Tonnage: .............. 825 Tonnes

(Fully Loaded).Designer: ................... Sparkman & StephensBuilder: ......... Astilleros Y Talleres Celaya S.a.Interior Designer: ..........Civitella Design S.a.Cruising Speed: ..................... 12 To14 Knots.Maximum Speed: .......................... 17 Knots.Number Of Guests: ...................................12Number Of Staterooms: ................... 9 To 12

Depending On The Configuration Chosen.Staterooms For Guests: .....The Owner’s Suite

with King Size Bed and Living Area,Two Master King Size Staterooms,

One King Size Stateroom / Or Two Twins,Two Master Queen Size Staterooms,

Two Queen Size Junior Suites / or Two Queen Cabins Plus Two Twin Cabins,

One Nanny Single Cabin.Crew Accomodations: ............ Up To 19 Crew

Members In 11 Cabins, Plus Nanny.Engines: ........ Two 1125 Hp Caterpillar Diesel Generators: ...................Two Caterpillar D343

+ One Emergency Generator.Construction: .....................Welded Steel Bull,

Steel Aluminum Superstructure, Teak Laid Decks

Diesel Fuel Tank Capacity: ..36,486 US Gallons (138,100 Liters)

Water Tank Capacity: ...........11,004 Us Gallons (41,650 Liters)

Water Makers: Two, With Fresh Water Making Capacity Of 10,000 Gallons Per Day(38,000 Liters Per Day)Range: ........................... 5,700 Nautical MilesFuel Consumption: ........65 Us Gallons / Hour

(245 Liters / Hour) At 11 Knots.Stabilizers: ...................Two Vosper StabilizersAir Conditioning and Heating System: .............

Throughout The Ship WithTwo 25-ton Compressors.

Heli Jet Fuel Tank Capacity: 2,857 US Gallons (10,814 Liters)

M/Y Absinthe General Specifications

Information



www.ocean-independence.com

Best yachts. Best places. Best crews.Best yachts. Best places. Best crews.

30 years of experience in luxury yacht vacations

30 years of experience in luxury yacht vacations

Former companies:

Call Ray Weldon in Fort Lauderdaleat +1 954 524 93 66 or +1 800 929 9366 or send an email to [email protected]

Brokerage | Charter | New Construction | Consulting Services | Management

Fort Lauderdale | Antibes | Barcelona | Düsseldorf | Geneva | Monaco | Palma de Mallorca | Uster | United Kingdom | Zürich

COVER STORY


Destination:Paradise

Northern Light will change

course in fall 2006, heading

east to new horizonsFollowing five successful years chartering in the Caribbean and the Mediterranean,

the sumptuous 151ft Royal Van Lent Feadship, Northern Light, will embark on her most

exotic journey yet: the sun-drenched islands of the Indian Ocean.

WRITTEN BY

JAMIE MATUSOW


It’s difficult to envision a more alluring destination, a tropical haven of unspoiled nature, rich with coral reefs and teeming with bird and aquatic life. An immense island chain where sparkling blue lagoons combine with sugary white sands, and trips

ashore to ancient temples and tea, cinnamon and avocado plantations reveal a colorful culture, steeped in history. Even better, the intriguing Indian Ocean, the third largest of the world’s oceans, bounded by Asia, Africa and Australia, is also one of the few areas of the world that remains relatively free of large-scale commercialism and mass tourism. Lest you think its islands boast no modern amenities though, be sure that its beauty and tranquility have not remained secret. In the past decade, word of the natural splendor and the geographically diverse terrain has spread, and as a result, some of the most elaborate resorts and restaurants on the planet have emerged in the expansive archipelago. Obviously, the preferred, if not the only, way to explore this idyllic watery paradise, is by boat—which explains why the area has become increas-ingly popular as a yachting destination for char-ter parties—especially for Europeans who have easy flight access to the Seychelles, Maldives and Thailand. Northern Light’s Captain Scott Johnson, who helped design the megayacht, and who has been with her since her launch in 2001, says the yacht’s expanded cruising area is based on several factors. He says he expects a longer charter season in the Indian Ocean than in the Caribbean, and also less yachts. (The Caribbean, he says, has become crowded with yachts, so a three-week season is about all you can expect.) In addition, the family that owns Northern Light has never been to the Indian Ocean so “it seemed like a perfect opportunity to broaden the yachting expe-rience for everybody.” The family plans to cruise through the Seychelle islands from late October to November. The yacht is then tentatively set to head toward Thailand prior to Christmas. The itinerary is still taking shape. Currently, Captain Scott, a native of Australia and an experienced captain who has cruised all over the world, has immersed himself in studying the Indian Ocean. “I’m not yet familiar with the region,” he says,” so the fun and challenging part for me will be to gather all the information I can to ensure we have a great and trouble-free time out there!” He says the climate at the intended time of charter is well-suited to cruising because it will be at the turn of the monsoon season, “when we should be afforded calm seas and light winds, with only a chance of showers.” One of the challenges he will face, he says, is provisioning. This is always a difficulty in a remote area, he says, so it’s impor-tant to check out what is available. “For example,” he laughs, “fish is not always guaranteed—even

in paradise! So the chef, chief stewardess and I have to scout and plan accordingly, even learn the schedule of freight flights from Europe and the States.” Provisioning to the quality required by charter guests, he says, means combining locally obtainable products with the best from the rest of the world. Of course budgets have to also be con-sidered, he adds, as freight and customs charges can be almost as expensive as the products them-selves. Long-range planning, says Scott, is key to a successful charter anywhere, and super-impor-tant when traveling to a new destination, as a busy charter season means a constant cycle of planning, provisioning, and cruising. “Logistics,” he says, “is a never-ending chore on a busy charter yacht.” This is why crew plays such a critical role. Scott says he chooses each member carefully, and that they have been together for a long time and know how to “pull it all together.” He prefers to hire crew of different nationalities and interests to provide as wide a scope and interest as possible. He encourages them to interact with the guests, when appropriate, as a way to relax them. On the other hand, the crew also knows how to remain nearly invisible while providing the utmost in ser-vice. For example, a tiny CCTV camera overlooks the yacht’s vast oval dining table, and transmits

Destination:Paradise

Heart of the Yacht A space designed for family entertaining. Parquet floors and large windows play up the mahogany interior.


COVER STORY

to a small screen in the pantry, so staff can “magi-cally” appear at the table when needed, instead of hovering behind the guests while they’re eating. Northern Light’s crew is usually 10-strong, says the Captain, although they will occasionally add an additional member for a long charter or a particularly demanding season. As Northern Light charters for a maximum of 10 people, this ensures a one-to-one ratio—and a comfortable and relaxed cruise experience, not to mention a great time!

The Ultimate in Entertainment Guests boarding Northern Light feel comfort-able immediately. As the Captain says, she is decorated in a traditional manner, elegantly, to the absolute highest standards without compromise, yet she is not overdone. He says there’s no feeling of “Oh I can’t sit there, it’s too nice.” Captain Scott says that Northern Light was “designed from the outset to be an open/in the sun yacht.” In fact, they placed the tenders and toys on the main deck aft, a spot usually reserved for guest dining, in order to free up the bridge deck and sundeck for guest relaxation. “Here,” he says, “you’ll find toys, tenders and everyone having a great time getting wet!” They carry a 19ft Nautica Rib (great for skiing, wakeboarding, towing all the toys, including a banana, donuts, U-tubes, knee boards, skis, wake-board), two kayaks, two sailboards, two Yamaha GP800 wave runners and a Laser sailing dinghy. “We also tow a 30ft Intrepid tender, equipped with two 250hp Yamaha engines, side door and shower\toilet facilities, which is great for extended exploration or snorkel trips,” says Scott. The sundeck is huge and roughly divided into three areas: forward is the Jacuzzi and sun pad area; midships is the shaded bar—with Heineken on tap; and the aft section is open with sun

loungers and fitness equipment, all shaded by a suspended canopy. On the right are two built-in seating areas with enormous umbrellas. “On char-ter,” says the Captain, “it’s not unusual to find the entire party up here—all doing their own thing in their own space, but still together.” Down the stainless and teak stairs to the bridge deck aft is the main outdoor dining area, with a dining table that can accommodate 12 with ease. The table is flanked by four service stations with varnished tops. These are used for the breakfast buffet as well as for lunch and dinner service. One of these units contains a wet bar, handy for service and also great for the guests who can help them-selves as required. With built-in seating similar to that found on the sundeck above, the Captain says it’s another great spot to relax. Stepping inside from the aft deck you enter the “heart of the yacht,” the bridge deck lounge, a space designed for family entertaining. Parquet floors and large windows play up the mahogany interior. Comfy blue and white sofas and a large granite-topped stand-up bar –again, with Heineken on tap – make this a great space to gather. And you needn’t worry about running out of beer—three kegs of the owner’s favorite brew are stowed in a special tem-perature-controlled locker. There is also a full audio-video package here with hidden plasma TV and surround sound for TV-DVD addicts, and you can also plug and play the camcorder to review the day’s events. This entertainment space also includes a hidden pan-try that allows the crew to offer full bar service or discreet service, depending on the occasion or on guests’ requirements. Descending the interior mahogany paneled staircase leads to the main deck. Forward is the master suite complete with a fully equipped office, for connection to the outside world. Aft is the din-ing room and beyond a full-height display cabinet

Open/in the Sun Yacht Space on the bridge deck and sundeck are for guest relaxation. Here you’ll find toys, tenders and everyone having a great time getting wet!

Overall length: ............46 metres/150 ftBuilt: ...............................................2001 Cruising speed: ........................12 knotsAccommodation: ...................10 guests Crew: ..................................................10

Special Features: ................................... Brand new 30’ Intrepid that is towed behind the yacht and is used for special excursions, fishing trips and diving expe-ditions. And we mustn’t forget the beer taps on the sun deck and in the upper salon, that provide draught Heineken, correctly chilled, to thirsty charterers!

Tenders & Toys: ......................................1 x 30’ Intrepid tender, 1 x 20’ Novurania Equator tender w/190 hp inboard/outboard, 1 x 6-metre Special Craft with 320hp inboard, 2 x Yamaha two-man waverunner, snorkelling equip-ment, kneeboard, banana, 2 x floating mattress, a range of waterskis (includ-ing monoskis).

Northern Light Specifications


of antique china is the main deck lounge. Both the dining area and main deck lounge are decorated in a slightly more formal manner. Both are very gra-cious, with handmade Tai Ping carpets that have a diamond pattern of cut silk on a wool background. Pineapples, the symbol of welcome, are sculpted into the corners of a central panel, where the yacht’s compass rose logo is embroidered. The lounge could be compared to an English club, and has an intimate feel. Large silk-covered sofas and easy chairs sur-round a Gucci leather table; artwork and encased ship models make this a great spot to retire to after the evening meal. Watch the news, catch up on a movie on the 60-inch plasma screen (hidden behind a painting when not in use), or let the kids crash out to a favorite DVD or get their fill of XBox. Perhaps best of all, the yacht is equipped with Zero-Speed stabilizers to ensure comfort at anchor and underway. Feadship’s quality of con-struction enables the yacht to run almost silently. In fact, says the Captain, “guests have come up for breakfast and have not realized we have shifted anchorage – or islands – overnight!”

The Ultimate in Accommodations The owner’s suite comprises a luxurious mahog-any-paneled stateroom with king-size bed; a study complete with leather-topped desk, bookcase and PC; and a smaller cabin designed for a young child, including a built-in crib upholstered in baby-blue satin. A nanny can be accommodated on the cab-in’s folding Pullman berth. The owner’s bathroom is elegant, with off-white, lightly patterned heated marble floors. From the whirlpool bath, two large windows offer a view of the seascape. Below, guests are accommodated in four very comfortable and spacious cabins – two doubles and two twins – opening off a parquet-floored lobby on the lower deck. Paneled in the same richly hued Honduras mahogany as the owner’s suite, the double cabins have marble bathrooms with double basins and full-sized tubs. Each cabin features a compre-hensive electronics system including a dedicated satellite television receiver for an almost unlimited choice of live or recorded sound and vision.

A New Chapter One thing is for sure, wherever Northern Light cruises, guests will enjoy a sumptuous home away from home. The Captain and crew do their best to ensure that, and the number of repeat charter guests serves as testament. From specific requests, such as stopping at the best restaurants along the way from Sardinia to Naples, to a lavish all-day affair to celebrate a guest’s 50th birthday during which the crew cleverly and secretly changed themes throughout, every day aboard the yacht is made to be a special occasion. In the past, the Mediterranean, particularly Italy, Capri and Ischia, have been among Captain Scott’s favorite destinations due to the friendly

people, fantastic food and wine, and awesome views. In Turkey, he loves the peace and quiet, the great people and the mixture of culture and religion. “Croatia,” he says, “along the Dalmatian coast is a wonderful place to cruise; you can have culture, history and nightlife one day and complete isolation and calm the next, all at your own anchorage.” He enjoys life in the Caribbean, laid back and relaxed, as well as the high life in St Barths. “It can be a little too relaxed for some tastes, but with the weather and the water it’s hard to beat,” he says. He says his favorite itinerary has been a Dalmatian cruise, starting in Venice and ending in Dubrovnik. There, he says, the choices are endless, from historical sites to complete isolation of island anchorages. He enjoys cruising up to Skradin to visit the waterfalls; being alongside the cultural city of Trogir that really gets going after dark; the peace and quiet of Miljet; and finally ending up in Dubrovnik to spend a full day exploring the city. We look forward to the additions to his “favor-ites list” once he rounds the Horn of Africa and heads on to the Seychelles and beyond. YVC

About the Writer Jamie Matusow is a freelance writer based in New York.

[email protected]

A Refreshing CocktailWherever the hot sun blazes, Northern Light’s crew refreshes guests with their signature Arctic Watermelon Ice Cocktail. Prepare as follows:• First prep the juice. One 3lb wedge of watermelon 1/2 cup corn sryup• Cut the rind off the watermelon and

remove as many seeds as possible (seedless melons are a big help here). Add the corn syrup and the water-melon to the blender and liquefy. Strain mix into a container, removing any seeds-foam; cover and refriger-ate until required. (It will keep for at least 5 days.)

• Arctic Watermelon Ice 1 cup blended ice 1 cup watermelon juice 1 tablespoon sweetened lime juice 1 tablespoon grenadine syrup 1 shot iced vodka• Blend ice and add the above, in order.

Blend until slushy and smooth. Pour into 12-oz. glass and garnish with watermelon.

Note: Leftover watermelon juice can be used for ice pops for the kids.

Information

Northern Light charters for Caribbean winter 2005/6, Christmas & New Year at US

$160,000/week; other months: US $150,000/week. Mediterranean summer 2006: €165,000/week; Indian Ocean winter 2006/7: €160,000/week. Contact: Peter Insull’s Charter Department at

Tel : +33 (0) 493 34 22 42; Fax : +33 (0) 492 90 43 [email protected] or www.insull.com

From the Pantry....

Ko Phi Phi Don Island Thailand


CAPTAIN’S CORNER

It’s the stuff dreams are made of: local Miami boy grows up with an affinity for fishing and cruising the surrounding waters. He attends an area high school and the University of Miami, commercially fishing and lobster-ing with his dad during school breaks. After

crewing on snorkeling boats in The Keys, he gets his captain’s license in order to take guests fishing. He runs several boats—then runs into an old friend from high school. The friend’s husband just hap-pens to be a self-made multimillionaire — with a passion for boats. And, by coincidence, the couple lives directly across the canal from where an 85ft Azimut—run by Captain Reiter —is docked. The high school friend introduces Reiter, now in his early twenties, to her husband. An instant connection is made. The husband, also a native Floridian, knows many of the same people as Reiter, and shares many of his interests, includ-

ing an ardent love for fishing and spearfishing. The millionaire soon offers Reiter the position of captain on his new 100ft Broward. Three years later, “the boss” purchases a 142ft Trinity, and Reiter makes the leap—at 30 years old—to run the brand-new tri-deck motoryacht.

A Whole New Level Reiter’s boss took possession of Positive Carry—the name comes from a financial term meaning the positive difference between the investment and the interest rate—on April 1, 2004, April Fool’s Day. But the fact that Reiter, who had never even seen the vessel was expected to step aboard and take the owner and his charter party to the Bahamas—was no joke! He had never been at the helm of anything over 100ft. Now, overnight, he was in command of a spectacular yacht that slept 10 and required a crew of nine.

Positive Attitude

This young can-do captain aims to deliver the time of your life

WRITTEN BY JAMIE MATUSOW

The story of M/Y Positive Carry ’s

Captain Whitney Reiter reads a little

like a novel. But while serendipity has

certainly played a role in his becoming

one of the youngest captains of a 142ft

Trinity, it’s his skill, hard work, upbeat

nature, and love of the water that pro-

vide drama and adventure for charter

guests.


Reiter and his boss arrived in New Orleans on a Thursday to pick up the vessel. They were supposed to leave on Friday for Key Biscayne. However, a last-minute holdup meant they couldn’t depart until Monday. “Whoopee!” recalls Reiter. “I had a whopping three days to get to know a boat of such magni-tude!” But his boss, a risk-taking entrepreneur in the bond business, obviously had faith in Reiter, and knew he had what it takes. So the Captain spent the weekend getting acquainted with his new vessel. On Monday, Positive Carry left New Orleans. “On Tuesday,” says Reiter, “I was somewhere in the Gulf of Mexico, on the phone, hiring crew and placing food and equipment orders.” When they arrived in Key Biscayne, at 6 a.m. Wednesday morning, Reiter met his new crew, loaded the boat with provisions, moved the boss’s 100ft Broward alongside to transfer equip-ment, and got everything organized. By 4 p.m. Wednesday, Positive Carry was en route to Cat Cay, a private island south of Bimini, with the boss and all of his guests. “Needless to say,” admits Reiter proudly, “that was one of my greatest challenges. After accom-plishing that, I knew I could do anything.”

Good Preparation That’s why, back in Cat Cay again, one of their most frequented venues, Reiter was prepared for another of his boss’s challenging requests. The owner had flown to the Atlantis hotel in his private helicopter, but did not make it back to the chopper in time to take off before sunset. Not wanting to wait until the morning to fly out, he called Reiter and asked him to pick him up in the vessel’s ten-der. Crossing the Gulf Stream in a tender was not something Reiter had ever imagined himself doing, but he left Cat Cay in the Yellowfin at around 9 p.m. When he arrived at the Atlantis, he helped his boss load about 10 large shopping bags of crystal and goods from Cartier and Ferragamo onto the tender. “Not the best idea, I thought, to load crystal onto a 60mph boat,” says Reiter, but away they went. They made it back to Cat Cay around 2:30 a.m. — a 220-mile round-trip—with all the crystal intact. The next day, the owner gathered the crew together and presented all the gals with Ferragamo bags and matching shoes, and the guys, with Cartier belts and wallets. “He is a great boss,” says Reiter, “and never takes us for granted.” Nor does his generosity end with his crew. The reason the boss was late getting to his chopper: he was delayed in the line at KFC, buying 40 buckets of chicken for the dockmaster at Cat Cay. Reiter says that crossing the Gulf Stream in a tender no longer seems like an unusual request. He has done it many times.

Favorite Destinations Reiter feels totally comfortable anywhere in Florida and the Bahamas—especially in the Exumas, which is where Positive Carry spends much of her time. He says that the Exumas are a great destination any time of the year, because there is protection from the weather wherever you go. “For most of our guests,” he says, “going from Georgetown to Nassau, with stops along the way, seems to make the most people happy. The Exumas is what I feel are the true Bahamas—and what I love about the islands.” He says that the beautiful beaches, private coves, and amazing underwater life are what makes the area so special – not to mention the extraordinary fishing and spearfishing.

Where the Action Is It is in water activities such as these that Positive Carry’s crew really stands out. They are an extremely active boat and love catering to active guests. They regularly take guests spearfishing so they can shoot their own meal. “This,” the Captain says, “usually results in shark encounters—which can scare the guests—but usually they end up intrigued! We always have two crew members in the water to help with the spearfishing, so the sharks have never been a problem—just a beauti-ful sight to see.” The crew loves to fish for everything from bonefish to marlin, swordfish to snapper, or “just” wahoo and dolphin. They flyfish, deep drop, kite fish, bottom fish, or just troll. Five crew mem-bers—including the Captain and his wife, the chief stewardess—can free-dive; several can descend to over 120 feet. Slaloming stews and mates love to entertain guests by doing flips on wakeboards. Just about every imaginable water sport is offered, from tubing to scuba diving.

Captain & Wife Captain Whitney with his wife and Chief Stewardess, Fiona.

Big Catch! Captain Whitney Reiter and Conner Dowd show off a 40lb dolphin they caught near Highbourne Cay in the Exumas.


CAPTAIN’S CORNER

Versatility in crew members is a must, says Reiter, “and the youth aboard Positive Carry is what I love about it. Everyone’s young—from the owner at 35, his wife at 32, and me, now 31. If you’re not young, you have to act that way to fit in.” The captain says that many of the crew he has hired did not have a lot of experience. He prefers youth over experience because it leads to a “can-do” attitude. He says he learns a lot from them, too, and “that there is not one crew member whom he doesn’t consider to be a friend. Friendliness and youth, he says, result in the informality onboard the yacht—and reflect his conviction to make every guest feel at home.

Laid-back Attitude While Positive Carry boasts a luxurious Dee Robinson-designed interior, complete with rich Makore African cherry, silk upholstery, marble baths, and state-of -the-art entertainment sys-tems, both the vessel and its crew exude a casu-al air. Since the owner has three small children, the crew are extremely child-friendly. The main saloon even has a baby gate to keep children and their toys safe in this most distinctive play area. “It throws formal out the window,” says Reiter, “and sets a fun tone for mixing with the guests.” And fun is what this crew’s all about, says the Captain. If you’re looking for a nice, relax-ing, low-key charter, you can hang out in the Jacuzzi or linger at the dining table for 10 on the main aft deck—complete with a unique air-conditioning system to cool you off when the breezes wane. The crew is always happy to oblige and honor your smallest request.

But it’s guests with an active lifestyle who will benefit the most from a week onboard, says Reiter. “We love showing people a great time,” he says, and we take pride in making everyone feel at home. It’s the crew aboard Positive Carry that makes the trip so special—and our abilities on the water that set us apart from other yachts out there. Fishing and spearfishing are sports we excel at, not just dabble in. We have over 20 fishing rods, 6 spearguns, and 10 Hawaiian slings—we do not come back empty-handed.” he promises.

A New Responsibility In 2003, Reiter added the title of Director of Marine Operations to that of free diver, spear-fisherman, golfer, tennis player, and Captain. For in that year, his boss purchased nine addi-tional boats—one more for himself and eight as Christmas presents for relatives and friends. In 2005, his boss went on a buying spree again, and bought eight Boston Whalers as presents. He knew his young captain would be up to the challenge of managing all of them. YVC


[email protected]

InformationPositive Carry accommodates 10 guests in

five cabins. Charters are available in Florida and the Bahamas at the rate of $130,000

per week, plus expenses. Contact: The Sacks Group Yachting Professionals, (954) 764-8219; www.sacksyachts.com

“ It’s our abilities on the water that set us apart from other yachts out there”

—Captain Whitney Reiter

Rent A GreekCruising Palace

And sailamong the

4,000 Greekislands

VALEF YACHTS LTD.International Headquarters: 7254 Fir Rd., P.O.B. 385, Ambler, PA 19002 U.S.A.

Tel: (215) 641-1621 • (800) 223-3845 • Fax: (215) 641-1746E-mail: [email protected] • Website: VALEFYACHTS.com

THEN YOU CAN SELECT YOUR OWN ENVIRONMENT, YOUR OWN SCENERY, YOUR OWN ISLAND!

Charter a motor yacht, motor sailer or sailing yacht (for 6 to 84 guests, from 60’ to 325’ and $1000 to $65,000 per day for entire yacht with its fullcrew) from VALEF YACHTS, agents for the largest fleet of crewed yachts for charter in Greece.

IT COSTS NO MORE THAN BEING ON A CRUISE SHIPBut• You can plan your own itinerary with your own captain• Your food with your own chef• Your drinks with your own steward, or leave it up to

them to…pamper you.

FOUNDED IN 1969


RESORTS

Out-of-the-way

Yankee

splendor

Out-of-the-way

Yankee

splendor

Lots of Room at the Inn

The 261-room house itself is an architectural wonder; a turreted seven-story building stretching nearly 1/8 of a mile, it’s surround-

ed by more than 28,000 acres of state park land and private preserves. The spacious rooms and halls are hallowed and cavernous, yet Mohonk exudes warmth. It really feels like someone’s house, albeit someone whose last name is Gates. The price also includes three fine meals a day.

Meals Fit for Royalty Speaking of meals, please plan on exercising the restraint of a monk unless you plan to leave a few pounds larger than when you arrived. The meals are American, meaning wholesome foods prepared with seasonal, local ingredients, and the spectacular natural setting is the final touch. There are equally delicious “Sound Choice” items,

appealing to the tastes of health-conscious guests, as well as vegetarian options, and Kosher meals are also offered upon request. Dine in the spec-tacular Main Dining Room, the intimate East and West Dining Rooms, or in the comfort of your own room. Come dressed: during dinner, jackets are required for gentlemen age twelve and over, and for ladies, dresses, skirts or evening slacks. Also, Mohonk’s award-winning wine list (Wine Spectator, 2004) offers a wide range of selections to accompany your repast. The West Lounge is open from 5-11 p.m. daily, serving cocktails and light fare.

Tea, Sweets, Activity For the overstimulated, easily bored 21st-century sort, there are a wealth of year-round themed programs available, from Ballroom or Swing Dancing, a Taste of Italy, Holistic living

Mohonk Mountain House

Mohonk is many things at once; an historic castle perched on the summit of a glorious

mountain, with luxurious, TV-less rooms, tall ceilings, acres of wood, and lounges with

stately libraries. But it’s also a retreat where silence gently shakes the horns, crowds and

work concerns out of your ears. Your days are packed full of activities if that’s your prefer-

ence; skating, cross-country skiing and snowshoeing are all on the complimentary docket

for winter; for spring, boating on the crystal-clear lake, hiking along miles-long trails, tennis

and other recreation is available free with your room price. Or you can do nothing at all.

WRITTEN BY JOSH MAX


as well as the Art of Chocolate, Just for Couples, Jazz on the Mountain or a Scottish Weekend, among others, many where children are invited to stay free. And speaking of the kids, there’s lots to keep them occupied, too, from storytelling to magic to mime while you and yours explore the grounds or simply unwind. Take afternoon tea and cookies, also included in the room price, as is nightly entertainment like movies, music or dancing. You can get a more reasonable rate, as well as little less maddening crowd, by staying from Sunday into Monday as we did, and prices also drop during the week if you feel like playing hooky from your life.

Relaxing Body, Mind, Spirit at the Spa The Old-World charm of Mohonk has been given a modern-day spin at the recently opened Spa. There, you can find your own perfect bal-ance of activity, rest, and play. They offer up yoga, Pilates, Qigong, aerobics and water classes, as well as a full menu of services and signature treatments. While in the Spa you can relax in the solarium or near the stone fireplace, take a dip in the indoor heated swimming pool, or if you’re visiting in the warmer months, in the outdoor heated mineral pool. The Spa also hous-es a state-of-the-art Fitness Center, steam and sauna rooms, The Elixir Bar, and offers a variety of teas, sports drinks and snacks. Complete the untangling of physical, mental and spiritual knots with an Energy Balancing Massage, Stress-Buster Back Therapy, Cedars Exfoliating Body Glow or an Herbal Rejuvenation Ritual before your return to the real world.

The Gift Shop: Something for Everyone The Mohonk Gift Shop on the ground floor is over 100 years old and combines turn-of-the-century charm with modern-day flair. Visit the Victorian-style Soda Fountain and enjoy an old-fashioned egg cream. Opposite the Soda Fountain is a gourmet food section feauturing treats such as homemade local chocolates, fine aged Antico Mercante balsamic vinegars and infused oils. Once sustained, wander the rest of the store, which offers a distinctive selection of keepsake treasures for you or your family, friends, and co-workers. Thumb through books from regional and inter-national best-selling authors, pick up comfy logo sweatshirts for taking it easy as well as fine linens by Margaret O’Leary. Choose a soothing Baudelaire soap from bath/spa section or a Luminary luxury boxed candle from the candle boutique.

The Fine Art of Observing Nature The beauty of Mohonk’s grounds can’t be over-stated, and a visit must include a stroll through the gardens, a cornerstone of Mohonk since the land was purchased in 1869. Landscaped impec-

cably, their focus is grounded in mid-19th century picturesque influence. The original design has been maintained through the years as the gardens have matured and evolved. Guests can enjoy large masses of flowering annuals, perennials, and tropical plants, set against magnificent vistas and views. Walk through The Mohonk Greenhouse and inhale the bouquet of orchids, begonias, and fuchsias. You’ll also find splendid gardens throughout the grounds, including ornamental grasses, herb col-lections, peonies, rock gardens, container gar-dens, and a butterfly garden. A scenic, easy trip by car, train or bus from most any location in the Northeast, Mohonk Mountain House is located in the heart of the Hudson Valley’s Catskill region. Amtrak trains arrive and depart from Poughkeepsie, and Adirondack Trailways provides bus services to New Paltz. If air travel is your method of transportation, Stewart International Airport in Newburgh is 25 miles from the Mountain House, Albany Airport 70 miles out, and the New York City area airports are less than 100 miles away. Mohonk will even provide transfer service from area airports, bus or train stations, prices available upon request. YVC

About the Writer Josh Max is a Manhattan based freelance writer and

musician. www.TheMaxes.com

[email protected]

InformationMohonk Mountain House, Lake Mohonk,

New Paltz, NY www.mohonk.com reservations: 800-772-6646

The Gardens A cornerstone of Mohonk since the land was pur-chased in 1869


YACHTING TRENDS


[email protected]

A different way

to buy a yacht

With more and more emphasis on “liv-ing the good life,” innovative concepts have emerged that allow those want-

ing to “have it all” to partake in a smorgasbord of luxury lifestyle options. Based on the premise of “why go it alone, when you can lower the cost of ownership and give more people the option to take part?” timeshare and fractional ownership plans have multiplied rapidly. They now run the gamut from luxury condos and upscale vacation homes, to private jets, enviable cars, and even spectacular jewelry and designer couture. Not only do these shared arrangements enable owners to indulge in a variety of business and vacation options, they release them from the burdens of ownership and provide opportunities for investment. Yacht ownership is one of the latest entries in the fractional ownership ring, and it has unique advantages. Unlike owning a share of a beach-front community on Cape Cod or a mountaintop ski house in Aspen, in which there are a limited number of preferred weeks, the mobility of a yacht allows all shareholders to enjoy optimal weeks aboard. From Maine and Martha’s Vineyard in the summer, to the Bahamas and the Caribbean in the winter, owners never have to settle for an off-sea-son week. They can usually choose a few weeks a year, in three different locations. Dave Perrich, VP of sales and marketing, for Luxury Lifestyles at Sea (LL at Sea), says the yachts his company offers cover the cruising area from the Chesapeake Bay in Maryland to the Caribbean. This year, he says, he’s had increased interest in the Montauk, NY, area, particularly from celebrities, and will most likely expand the yachts’ cruising area a little farther north this sum-mer to accommodate that market as well. Since starting the company just two years ago, Perrich says he has found that fractional owner-ship appeals to a wide range of interested parties. Sharing the property is not usually about the issue of money with his clients—it’s more a matter of time. He says that LL at Sea has received strong interest even from groups they hadn’t counted on. “We found that many serious inquiries came from experienced yachtsmen,” he says. “Many have owned

their own yachts for years; now, with getting older, they’re looking for a way to continue to enjoy all of the pleasures with less responsibility.” Others are inter-ested in “trading up,” but don’t want to deal with the maintenance, upkeep and security that commitment would incur. “For them,” he says, “Owning a yacht for three weeks a year is the ideal solution.” Perrich says, that on average, the typical yacht owner spends just three weeks a year on his boat anyway—but pays for it 365 days a year. And main-tenance costs, he says, run 10-15% of the yacht’s cost. With fractional ownership, Perrich emphasiz-es, participants get the benefits of outright owner-ship, but at only 1/12 of the cost. And what’s more, they can write it off as personal property. Although the yacht is owned by a corporation, each indi-vidual can take his share as a personal deduction. LL at Sea has filed for fractionalization in Florida, and has set up several fractional-own-ership programs. They specialize in brand-new boats, 80 feet and up, ranging from Italian to U.S. designs. All yachts are crewed by a highly skilled team that includes a chef specifically trained for creating culinary masterpieces at sea. Twelve own-ers are each able to select 21 days per year from three main cruising areas. The remaining weeks are allocated for yacht transfer, maintenance, and crew vacations. Each owner also pays an annual maintenance fee to cover such things as scheduled services, cleaning, and yacht transfer. Variable costs per week include food, drink, dockage, and fuel. He says that LL at Sea’s initial yacht offered for frac-tional ownership already has its 12 owners, and that there’s currently strong interest in their 120ft offering. By April, he says, the company predicts they’ll have enough clientele to close three boats. In fact, he says demand has been so high, that they are looking into partnerships with European builders to bring their fractional-ownership programs to the Mediterranean. So whether you’re an experienced yachtsman look-ing for an alternative to full-time ownership; a busi-nessman looking for an investment that fulfills work and family entertainment requirements; or a frequent charterer who may not yet be ready to make the leap to full ownership, sharing your yacht with 11 other people may be the way to go. YVC

Fractional OwnershipSharing a yacht is an appealing investment

for businessmen and experienced yachters

alike.

WRITTEN BY JAMIE MATUSOW

InformationFor more information on LL at Sea’s

fractional ownership programs, contact: David Perrich at 727-656-9952

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RESORTS

A long-time favorite destination for the sun and beach-starved weary traveler

Atlantis: The Place to Drop Anchor

Atlantis is ideal for vacationers whose tastes run to the colossal, the bustling, the all-inclusive, those with impatient children,

or all of the above. It’s a city unto itself, a Times Square in the middle of sunny paradise, and it’s growing, too; construction was going on during our trip for a new wing of suites which will prob-ably need their own zip code. We’d need a dictionary-sized tome to touch on every last amenity it offers, but suffice it to say the Atlantis has 2,300 guest accommoda-tions in its Royal Towers, Coral Towers and Beach Tower; over 35 restaurants, bars and lounges, a 10,000 square-foot Casino, the largest ballroom in the Bahamas/Caribbean region, and a marina capable of handling the largest of private luxury vessels. Eleven million gallons of fresh and salt water pools, waterfalls aplenty, a long, long beach, exhibits of lagoons and underwater for-mations displaying over 200 species of marine life and 50,000 live animals ranging from schools of sharks to rainbows of tropical fish make the

Atlantis a fascinating, days-long source of won-der and amazement. There’s more, much more, but the main focus of yachtspeople ought to be the 63-slip marina; there, yachts from all over the world can drop anchor, have passports checked, disembark and join the fun of Atlantis and the rest of the island for as long as you wish with full support of the on-site office. Visit Marina Village, a 65,000 square-foot market-place with world-class shopping and fine dining including the excellent Seafire with its first-class wine selection and specialties like abaco grouper, ahi tuna, steaks, poultry and other fine dishes. Expect crowds no matter the time of year, and keep eyes open while traveling from here to there within the grounds, as the general population is quite happy to bowl you over should you neglect to get out of the way. Front-desk people are effi-cient as one can be when dealing with a massive, wealthy horde of thousands seven days a week. Also, service is on island time; accept it sooner than later and you can better take advantage of the various fun and non-stop entertainment.

Nassau: Something for Everyone

The place is being developed faster than you can say “conch fritter”, though, and the

assortment of inns, resorts, hotels and other places to hang hat and anchor can be a chal-

lenge to negotiate. Here we profile four hotels of disparate flavors, each catering to a par-

ticular type of traveler.

AtlantisThe main focus of yachtspeople is the 65-slip Marina where yachts from all over the world can drop anchor.

WRITTEN BY JOSH MAX


Graycliff Hotel and Restaurant: Peace, Quiet and 5-Diamond Dining Graycliff is an utterly charming, twenty-room, 250-year-old inn carrying a Bahamian magic all its own. Parked on a nondescript side street across from the two cannons in the driveway of the Governor’s mansion, Graycliff is as unassuming as other resorts are ostentatious; when pulling up to Graycliff’s steps, our taxi driver missed the entrance on his first try because he didn’t know where it was despite his eight years on the job. But walk up to the homey front porch via the stately stone steps, enter the lobby with its high ceilings and natural wood beams hovering over you, go to your com-fortable, extra large suite and have a chair on the second-floor porch. Listen to the songs of the birds and feel the wind rustling through the trees and your pulse begins to relax. Stroll the grounds with their dense trees and elegantly manicured fauna, dip into one of three pools surrounded by acres of foliage, write a postcard, flirt with your other half, or do nothing at all. You’ll leave relaxed, refreshed, fed and satisfied. A small gym, some of whose equipment needed some maintenance, is avail-able, as well as a variety of spa packages. Graycliff gets high marks for the staff’s ability to answer questions and hold a pleasant conver-sation rather than giving you the feeling there are a dozen trains to catch in the next five minutes. After a short while, you start knowing the names of the taxi drivers on call in front of the lobby at night, the concierge and various relaxed staff about the place, and imagine it’s your house rather than a vessel for so much travelin’ cattle. When hunger strikes, the prefixe Humidor Churrascaria is one of two restaurants owned by Graycliff you should visit both to dine in and to sample its world-class cigars, rolled and sold right there in front of you. The star of the hotel, however, is the Graycliff restaurant in the dining room just off the hotel lobby. Enjoy the white glove service and relish a warm salad with shrimp and smoked duck breast, grapefruit and garlic vinaigrette appetizer, a boneless full breast of free range chicken stuffed with Italian Parma prosciutto, spinach and aged parmesan or an oven slow-roasted crisp Long Island duckling in Bahamian naval orange sauce escoffer. Exquisite caviar for the most discerning connoisseur is avail-able, as are some of the world’s most exclusive wines. And speaking of wines, a word must be said about Graycliff’s cellars. With over 275,000 bottles, some of which date back to the 1700s, it is an exquisitely exclusive collection, and if you can’t find a bottle to suit your taste, your only solution would be to obtain a bunch of grapes on your own and have at it. A wine cellar tour is a must, and can be arranged through guest services. Once you’re suitably fed, enjoy one of the aforementioned aromatic and homemade cigars. A steward will offer you a choice of fat or thin, long or short, mild or industrial strength. The hotel is in need of a paint job and some minor fixits, but for us, this added to the charm.

Sandals Royal Bahamian Spa Resort and Off Shore Island The finest in service, and a couples’ paradise. It usually takes a couple of days to unwind from your crazy home life even in the plushest of vaca-tion locales, but being picked up in a Rolls-Royce and having your own personal butler during your stay as we did is a great way to start off. Sandals strives and mostly succeeds in providing the ulti-mate in pampering, the finest in dining and the most romantic settings in Nassau, almost daring you not to fall in love with whoever you bring with you. And make sure you do bring someone – Sandals is a couples-only resort, no kids allowed. Prices are all-inclusive – no tipping permitted, so leave your wallet in your room safe; you won’t need it the whole time you visit. There are 403 rooms in 13 varying categories of swank, seven bars, two beautiful large pools in the main area (with swim-up bars) and nine gourmet specialty restaurants featuring an array of cuisine from Bahamian to French to Italian to Japanese and more. Our 1-bedroom suite was the most satisfying out of all our Bahamian lodgings with its 4-poster bed, a patio, spacious rooms and Jacuzzi. Two shops, Little Tings and Royal Tings, offer clothes, beach towels, cold drinks, souvenirs and more. Sandals makes it incredibly easy to turn your life into a days-and-nights long saga of simple choices; when to go to the beach, when and what to eat and drink, and when to make romance. After discovering a trail of rose petals interspersed with lit votive candles leading to your bed and the clock radio tuned to Lite-FM at night, or partaking in the couples’ massage Sandals’ world-class spa offers, or imbibing a bit of the fine champagne and liquor available at every turn, you surrender, and you’re in the mood for love most of the time you’re there. Sandals is a sure-cure for the relationship blues. And, regarding relationships, consider tying the knot here as well; the resort averages 8 weddings a day – and your honeymoon can take place on premises. When you’re not busy making goo-goo eyes at your beloved, feast your ears or express your vocal talents at the piano bar from 9 PM to 12. At 10 PM at the Royal Theatre, an assortment of live bands and entertainers is offered including comedians, local musicians, and magicians. During daylight hours, a variety of land and water sports is available for enthusiasts, as well as an up-to-date fitness cen-ter complete with free weights, treadmills, station-ary bicycles and more equipment, a far cry from the broken-down afterthought some resort fitness centers are fond of presenting to vacationers. A trip to Sandals Cay, a pristine nearby off-shore island, is a must. Ferries run every hour on the hour, and the island’s fresh water pool, Jacuzzi, swim-up pool bar and Café Goombay will further untie the knots. Sandals’ prices also include round-trip air-port transfers, an orientation twice daily, and Ambassadors for non-English speaking guests.

Homemade CigarsA steward will offer you a choice of fat or thin, long or short, mild or industrial strength.

Graycliff Graycliff is as unassuming as other resorts are ostentatious


RESORTS

Radisson; One of the Better Chain Resorts One doesn’t normally exclaim “Radisson!” when quizzed about luxury hotels. That said, the Bahamas can get awfully crowded at peak season, and there inevitably comes a time when room at the 5-star inn is scarce and one needs a bet-ter-than-decent place to hang hat and suitcase. Consider the Radisson, one of the better chain hotels on the island. Something’s always happening in the gargan-tuan lobby, including coffee first thing in the morn-ing, tours and excursions hawked by smiling young island women parked behind desks loaded with pamphlets and brochures, a bar where you can get your daiquiri and head off down to the beach, and helpful front desk staff. One of this hotel’s most pleasing characteristics is its lack of mob; even when it’s busy, a beach chair (or two) is always available, ditto the pool, so it’s possible to have a dip first thing in the morning without discovering a horde of shoes, books and other bric-a-brac hold-ing a place on every last chaise lounge. The kids will love it, too; the Radisson’s “Camp Junkanoo” is designed for tykes. Campers enjoy a mix of daily themed and supervised activity pro-grams. It’s a great way for kids to make new pals from all over the globe – while parents get a chance to enjoy all that the resort has to offer. From arts and crafts or nature walks, straw market field trips, to pool play, karaoke, dance lessons, treasure hunts, trivia games, beach olympics plus much more, Camp Junkanoo lets children enjoy all while being closely monitored in a safe, secure setting. The price of your stay is all-inclusive, meaning you can get a filling meal without hauling the wal-let out for the fiftieth time that day, or signing a bill that bites you when you check out. Lunch and din-ner is better than breakfast; you’ll probably want to grab a banana, orange, mini-box of cereal and

apple juice to go rather than delve into the eggs or pancakes each morning. Rooms here are what they are, and sometimes that’s all you need – a place to sleep and shower rather than spend extensive time in. Many rooms have lovely views, though, and it’s nice to wake up, walk to the balcony and have a peek at the waves while you remind yourself of your friends back home who are sitting in traffic. The surrounding areas of the Radisson feature restaurants where the fare jumps quite a few notches in quality. One must-visit is Indigo; we liked it so much we ate there twice. Try the sushi, the coconut curry conch chow-der, the tuna cranberry cakes, Asian egg noodles with spicy shrimp, and most everything else on the menu. No need to write down the address for your taxi driver, either; everyone knows where Indigo is. The Radisson offers entertainment most nights, a pleasure as long as one remembers this is the Bahamas and not off-Broadway here; after witnessing the evening floor show consisting of male twins impersonating Bette Midler, Neil Diamond, Barbra Streisand and others, you’ll have something to include on your postcards home alongside “Having a great time!” YVC

Jet Blue (www.JetBlue.com) flies directly to Nassau out of JFK and other airports; their friendly and helpful flight attendants and TVs on the back of each seat make the trip a fun ride.

About the Writer Josh Max is a Manhattan based freelance writer and

musician. www.TheMaxes.com

[email protected]

Sandals Strives and mostly succeeds in providing the ultimate in pampering, the finest in dining and the most romantic settings in Nassau.

“ it is one of the most romantic settings in Nassau, almost daring you not to fall in love with whoever you bring with you”

Information

www.Atlantis.com • www.GrayCliff.comwww.Sandals.com • www.radisson-cablebeach.com

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CRUISING CIGAR MAN

Tubed Cigars In or Out? I have several Romeo y Julieta and Partagas, as well as maybe 25 or 30 different Fuente Fuente OpusX cigars that are either in cedar-lined alu-minum tubes or glass tubes. I took the Cubans out of their tubes when I put them in my larger humidor, but left the OpusX cigars in the glass tubes with the end plug removed (it’s a smaller count humidor that has ONLY OpusX cigars in it). Is this a good way of storing or not? Thanks for your advice, as I have heard both sides of the argu-ment.

— RickI get this question often, and yes, it is a good way to store them. I’m a traditionalist, in that I remove the cello wrappers from the cigars in my humidor – well, most of them. For the pricey stuff, like Fuente Fuente OpusX, Davidoff, Padron Anniversary 1964, and other luxury class cigars, I feel it’s better to leave them in the cellos. If they’re tubos, I recommend removing the cap so some additional air-flow gets in. Even though both glass and metal tubos will maintain proper humidity for months, you get the peace of mind of knowing that the cigars are getting air flow. Keeping your finest cigars in their cellophane wrappers and tubes is also the best way to protect the outer wrapper leaf, par-ticularly if your cigars get jostled when reaching for a cigar at the bottom of your humidor.

Spaced-out Cigars Assuming that the humidor is not filled to capacity, is there an ideal scheme for storing the cigars - or, for example, does it make any differ-ence if they are stacked willy-nilly inside?

—Tom B.Not at all. Just try to keep some space between the cigars for air-flow, an important ingredient in keeping your cigars fresh and supple. Don’t pack them tightly into the humidor like they are in the factory box. If there are some cigars you smoke more often, keep them near the top. You also want to rotate them every couple of months by moving the ones on the bottom row up to the top row, etc. This is due to the fact that the humidity and tempera-ture will vary in different sections of the humidor.

Storing Factory-Packed Boxes, and Long-term Aging I have two questions: First, how do I keep boxed cigars in my humidor, sealed or opened? I have purchased a 550 ct. cabinet humidor that will hold several boxes. Secondly, how do I tell what cigars are good for long term aging (10+ years), and which ones peak in only a few years?

— DonTo answer your first question, keep the factory boxes sealed until you’re read to open them. Your cabinet humidor is really a mini humidified ware-house. On the other hand, if you plan on picking from different boxes as you smoke, as long as the conditions are within 65% - 70% RH and about 70° Fahrenheit, they can remain open, as they would be in a cigar store display case.

Regarding how to tell which cigars are better for long term storage, when it comes to premium long-filler cigars, there’s no way to tell. So look at it this way: The better cigars, especially if they’re valuable or rare, you may want to keep longer for those “special occasions.” But my philosophy is to “smoke ‘em now.” When a cigar is shipped from the factory it’s ready to smoke, although some additional months of home aging does help settle them. So, enjoy them as soon as you can. Ten years sounds like an awfully long time to wait to have a good cigar, especially a GREAT one.

What’s Better, Wood or Plastic? My friends frown at my use of large Tupperware-type containers in which I store my extensive stash of cigars. This system allows me to dedicate one con-tainer to one type of cigar so they do not marry, and has the added advantage of containing outbreaks of mold, beetles, and other undesirable problems. I use a gel humidifier and a digital hygrometer, plus a small strip of Spanish cedar between the layers of cigars to allow air and humidity to circulate, and I leave the cellophane wrappers on. I eventually want to build a humidor with individual cedar lined boxes that will allow the cigars inside to be physically separated on pullout cedar pallets, each with its own gel humidi-fier & hygrometer. Are there any problems with this arrangement or are my friends just cigar snobs?

— Sonny C.The answer is, they’re snobs. I get dozens of emails from cigar smokers who have the same setup as you, and their cigars are fine. I prefer to store my cigars using the more “traditional” wooden humi-dor, but as they say, “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.” However, the “traditionalist” in me suggests that you invest in at least one good-quality humidor for your primos. Other than that, it looks like you’ve got the situation well in-hand (pun-intended).

About the Writer Gary Korb is the resident cigar guru at Famous Smoke Shop

(www.FamousSmoke.com) in Easton, PA. He has been

enjoying the wonderful world of cigars for over 25 years.

I’ve Got Mail!For this issue I thought I’d dip in to my

mailbox and publish some questions I’ve

received in the past few months that may

also be concerns of yours. As I usually

say when I reply to a question, ‘I hope this

helps.’

WRITTEN BY

GARY KORB

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RESORTS

T hink it’s too good to be true? Think again. Villazzo is here. Offering private villa rent-als in magnificent homes in the world’s

dreamiest destinations, Villazzo’s edge is the com-bination of properties and amenities it offers. Unique in the field, Villazzo provides guests with the best of five-star hotel amenities in the luxuri-ous private villas in its portfolio. Surprisingly, the Villazzo idea did not come from a hotelier. Instead, it came from an entre-preneur who was, himself looking for a high-end vacation rental. What Christian Jagodzinski found were plenty of beautiful properties, but none of them with amenities he was used to, having stayed in numerous five-star hotels. To begin with, there was no airport transfer to the property. The villas were not equipped with an internet connec-tion nor in some cases even a phone. Laundry and

maid services were not part of the package, either. And so, like a true entrepreneur, Jagodzinski rec-ognized a hole in the market for private villas with high-end hotel amenities – surely he couldn’t be the only one in search of them? In 2002, Jagodzinski founded Villazzo and began selecting villas to manage “the Villazzo way.” With properties in St. Tropez, Marbella, Aspen and Miami (one of which is Jagodzinski’s own) and more then 20 employees worldwide, Villazzo has grown into a thriving boutique hospitality busi-ness. Careful not to grow the property portfolio beyond the ability to provide truly personalized service, Jagodzinski and his staff keep their eye on the quality of each guest’s experience. The staff office is never more than 30 minutes from each of the properties – this way, staff can respond quickly to guests’ more immediate needs. How does it work? Prospective guests can peruse www.villazzo.com or call one of their offices directly to make a reservation for a two night mini-mum. Then, guests are encouraged to submit any requests they may have for their stay in advance. As Villazzo’s Director of Villa Management, Ludovic Roche, points out, “Almost anything is possible if we have enough time to make the arrangements.” And even on short notice Roche has provided the nearly impossible to guests wanting, for example, a new billiard table set up by the pool. More stan-dard requests range from stocking the fridge with a list of groceries to setting up dinner parties with catering from noteworthy local restaurants. Once on the property, the level of service supplied is entirely up to the guests.

NextGeneration VillasImagine if you could take your family or a big group of friends to a private vacation villa in,

say, Marbella, Miami or St. Tropez. The villa is perfectly located for privacy but still central

to the beach, buzzed about new restaurants and any sights you might want to meander

through on a lazy afternoon. It is outfitted with a pool, billiard room, home theater, chef’s

kitchen, fitness center and amenities like WiFi, Godiva chocolates for munching, a full

library of DVDs and the plushest robes you’ll find outside a Four Seasons. And, most impos-

sibly, there is a staff of concierges, housekeepers, cooks and other good time facilitators on

standby, ready to address your whims on a moments’ notice.

WRITTEN BY AGHA KHAN

Taking hospitality to the next level


Inside Casa Contenta in Miami, one of Villazzo’s signature properties, it is difficult to imagine wanting any interference from the outside world. On an acre of prime Palm Island real estate, the 20 million dollar villa is a Spanish-style mansion enrobed in tropical foliage with interiors reflecting a French sensibility. With over 11,000 square feet of living space and grounds that feature a heated pool with waterfall and grotto, two Jacuzzis, a wet bar with barbecue and even a regulation-sized sand volleyball court, there is plenty of privacy on the property as well as from the outside world. Days float by in the idyllic setting on the Gulf of Mexico. Hours by the pool or in the rooftop hot tub are the stuff of vacation fantasies. If you must check in with the outside world, the busi-ness office is equipped with an internet-ready PC, printer and fax machine. Settle in for a movie night in the home theater and take your pick of hundreds of DVDs in the villa library. Want to work off last night’s dessert and cocktails? Head for the fitness center where resistance training equip-ment, cardio and even a mirrored wall with ballet bar offer the latest exercise options. And, much like high-end hotels, the experi-ence is enhanced by details, like the Mont Blanc pen on the bedside table, fresh flowers deliv-ered every morning, 300-thread count sheets, well stocked wine cellar and humidor, Aveda products in every bathroom, JURA espresso maker in the kitchen and Godiva chocolates and fruits around the house. Technologically, the house is tricked out with all the latest – Ethernet cabling through-out the house, Dolby 5.1 home theater systems, a vast musical selection available and customizable in every room of the house. Villazzo is even in the process of installing a biometric security system in which guests can simply place their hands up to a fingerprint reading sensor for entry to the prop-erty. The twice-daily housekeeping and turndown service is discreetly handled – the effect is felt, but their presence is virtually undetectable. It’s tempting to stay indoors and enjoy all that Casa Contenta has to offer, but Miami is a big city with lots to see. Villazzo has a chauffered limousine waiting to drive guests to South Beach hotspots or for an afternoon of shopping on Ocean Drive. Villazzo will also make seamless arrangements for golf or tennis, spa treatments and helicopter and yacht charters. Want to go out and leave the little ones at home in trusted hands? Villazzo will not only secure a choice restaurant table for your party but send a nanny to the house to look after the children. The best part is that it’s entirely up to you whether you want to enjoy Miami on the streets of South Beach or delivered directly to you at the villa. The staff regularly delivers dinners from local favorites, Shoji Sushi, Smith & Wollensky and Joe’s Stone Crab, but they can make arrangements with virtually any restaurant in town. With services such as these, it is no surprise that celebrities are among Villazzo’s devotees.

Although Villazzo’s staff is tight-lipped about their clientele, other sources informed me that Derek Jeter and Jamie Foxx had recently enjoyed Villazzo’s services in Miami. Connoisseurs who find in Villazzo everything Jagodzinski found lacking in other villa rental ser-vices will be heartened to know that “the Villazzo standard” found at Casa Contenta is also the norm at the other Miami villas, evocatively named Villa Gabrielle and Villa Capponi. In an elite Coral Gables neighborhood, Villa Gabrielle is comfort-ably laid out for large or more intimate parties. Each room is a refreshing burst of color, giving the property a playful touch. The massive outdoor grilling area invites poolside barbecues, which can either be arranged for guests or left to their own culinary skills. Villa Capponi, on the other hand, is a bit more extravagant in its invitations. Owned by a nightlife impresario, the property is the perfect celebratory destination located in close proximity to the pulsing center of South Beach. The coastal city of Marbella, long a treasured vacation destination of Spaniards and citizens of the world, houses three Villazzo properties: Villa El Cid, Villa Flamingo and Villa Enola. Each offers a convenient, yet unique location in the hilly Marbella area. Golf lovers gravitate to Villa El Cid for its proximity to the Flamingos Golf Course while Villa Flamingo and Villa Enola both enjoy breathtaking views of the Mediterranean and the North African coastline. The Villazzo properties in St. Tropez live up to the city’s glamorous reputation. Villa Belle Vue and Villa Village are classic French Riviera luxury homes, and are worth 7 million euros and 15 million euros, respectively. They are joined by Apartment du Port, Villazzo’s only apartment property. But do not be dissuaded – its 1,600 square feet are beautifully laid out into a charming three bedroom home fronted by the port of St. Tropez. Each of the well-chosen properties reflects Villazzo’s signature aesthetic: elegant luxury living with an emphasis on comfort. But, unlike many chain hotels, the unique features of each property are not crushed under uniformity. Instead, the service is consistent but not generic. Villazzo staff are trained at the highest level of the hospitality industry. Unlike either posh hotels or new “desti-nation clubs,” Villazzo follows a strict philosophy that the client should pay for only those products or services they actually use. There is no member-ship fee or annual fee, simply the rental fee for the property. And, likewise, if a guest has no interest in a full-time butler, in-house massage treatments, or an exotic car rental, he will not be charged for extra services. But, decadent services like these are awfully difficult to resist, aren’t they? YVC

About the Writer Agha Khan lives in Manhattan and writes for luxury

lifestyle publications.

[email protected]

Villazzo Combines five-star hotel amenities with sumptuous vacation villas around the world.

“ Each of the well-chosen properties reflects Villazzo’s signature aesthetic: elegant luxury living with an emphasis on comfort”


THE PACIFIC

Island FeverCatch the Aloha spirit by island hopping in HawaiiWRITTEN BY AGHA KHAN

While many a honeymooning couple has enjoyed a sunset luau at a Maui resort and fami-

lies have been vacationing on Honolulu’s famed Waikiki beach for decades, surprisingly

few travelers know Hawaii off the beaten path. What better way to explore the nooks and

crannies of the more popular islands and get to know Hawaii’s less touristy islands than by

planning an island-hopping vacation? Whether you want to captain your own yacht or hire

a helicopter, Hawaii’s islands were made for exploring. In fact, given the rugged coastal

landscape of some islands, there is no other way to see all of Hawaii’s natural beauty. So,

pack your bags and follow our ten-day itinerary on three of Hawaii’s most majestic islands

designed to give you maximum Aloha spirit.


THE PACIFIC

Island FeverHonolulu & Waikiki The white sands of Waikiki extend across a stretch of the city, drawing in picnicking local families and guests of upscale resorts alike.

• If you happen to be an active or retired military or civilian Department of Defense employee, you’re in luck. The beautiful Hale Koa Hotel right on Waikiki Beach and adjacent to Fort DeRussy is reserved just for you – and, at less than half what neighboring luxury hotels cost.

• Looking for the ultimate in romance? Then book the Vera Wang Suite at the Halekulani – if you can. Booked up frequently for honeymoons and anni-versaries, the 2,100 square foot suite with 600 foot lanai designed by the celebrated wedding dress designer, is arguably the most beautiful hotel suite in all of Hawaii.

• Want to experience old Hawaiian glam-our? Then the Royal Hawaiian, a pink structure built in 1927 as a Spanish-Moorish homage to Rudolph Valentino on an elite stretch of Waikiki, is for you. The grande dame of Honolulu hotels, its architecture and décor will take you back to a bygone age of Queen Kaahumanu who used to summer on the very same stretch of beach.

Oahu Inside Tips

Day One: Oahu The island of Oahu is an ideal starting point and transition from the mainland to Hawaiian life. The city of Honolulu, the island and state’s primary hub, is a cosmopolitan city filled with commercial development, hotels, restaurants, shops, spas and nightlife. Oh, and did we mention, the beach? The white sands of Waikiki extend across a stretch of the city, drawing in picnicking local families and guests of upscale resorts alike. Every urban ame-nity is available, yet Honolulu’s visual landscape of ocean, mountains and tropical foliage remind visitors that they’re not on the mainland anymore. It is Hawaii’s third largest island with much to see and do. Popular hotels among luxury travelers include the Kahala (formerly the Kahala Mandarin Oriental), whose recent $20 million refurbishment provides updated décor and poolside cabanas outfitted with high tech amenities such as iPod Nanos, flat screen televisions and wireless inter-net access. Another favorite is the W Honolulu Diamond Head Hotel, which is also completing an interior overhaul in April. Though the trendy W style will remain, the look in each room will be updated and W’s popular signature bed will be added to each room. Beachside Hyatt Regency Hotel and Spa, Halekulani Hotel, Castle Waikiki Shore, and ResortQuest Waikiki Beach Tower attract discerning visitors. While on Oahu, don’t miss the landscape and sights beyond Honolulu – Waikiki, though beautiful, is only one of many beaches on Oahu. Take in the secluded beaches of Southeast Oahu and try to guess which one served as the backdrop to that infamous scene in “From Here to Eternity”. Take the yacht along the popular surf spots of the North Shore to Kaena Point where Hawaiian tradition holds that souls meet eternity.

Day Four: Kauai Now that you’ve acclimated to the time difference, the warm, slightly humid climate, and the friendly atmosphere, it’s time to move on to pure Hawaiian spirit in Kauai. Laid-back and less devel-oped yet with every amenity needed for living well, Kauai represents the essence of Hawaiian life.

Legislation mandates that no structure is built on Kauai that is taller than a coconut tree, so don’t expect to find high-rise resorts or a skyscraper-filled skyline. The island

is, however, filled with rainforest hiking trails, dramatic mountain views and foliage like you’ve never seen before – after all, it is called The Garden Isle.

Kauai is small enough to drive most of the way around within a day – roads stop at the Napali coast on the North Shore, and

the only way to traverse the mountains is by helicopter, boat, or, for the very adventurous, a rigorous hike across steep mountains. The reward? Secluded beaches and photo opportunities your friends back home will not believe. The southern tip of the island at Poipu Beach is less dramatic but has more reliably dry weather, and with the gor-geous Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort and Spa and fine dining such as Roy’s, it is a popular area to stay. On the Eastern coastline between the two ends of the island are the more populated towns of Kapaa and Lihue. Kapaa has a youthful feeling, its downtown littered with surfer cafes, burger joints

and health food shops. The most magnetic draw of the island is ulti-mately the North Shore with its emerald moun-

tains and hidden beaches. Starting with the luxu-rious Princeville Resort in the developed area of Princeville and further, the landscape is magical.


CATAGORY HEAD

For guests of the Princeville Resort, a beach and world-class golf course are available. Further north, several restaurants draw foodies, such as Bali Hai at the Hanalei Bay Resort and Hanalei Dolphin. While on Kauai, don’t miss the opportunity to golf on some of the world’s most highly ranked golf courses. Try the Princeville Resort’s Makai Course and Prince Course, 45 holes designed by Robert Trent Jones, Jr. The Poipu Bay Golf Course is an absolute must for golfers. The course, also designed by Robert Trent Jones, Jr., plays host to the PGA Grand Slam of Golf every November. For a unique experience on a course woven into 750 acres of native ecosys-tem – including 40 acres of freshwater lagoons – the Kauai Lagoons Golf Club’s Kiele Course is a Jack Nicklaus-designed masterpiece.

Day Seven: The Big Island of Hawaii The island of Hawaii, known as The Big Island is a study in contradictions – black lava rock from its five volcanoes and the white sand beaches all the islands are known for. The spectacular landscape includes glittering waterfalls nestled in tropical jungles, the snowcapped mountain peak of the world’s tallest sea mountain Mauna Kea, and the black lava rocks intermingled with sandy beaches of white, golden and shades of green. Despite its size (it’s roughly the size of Connecticut), it is the least populated of all the islands of the Hawaiian archipelago. Although it boasts several luxury hotels and resorts, Hawaii is more inclined to inspire spiritual awe and wonderment than the desire for pampering. It is also an adventurer’s dream – kayakers will delight in its coastline’s caves and the beaches only accessible by boat. Hop off the boat and take in the colorful, majestic life under the sea with scuba or snorkeling gear. On the island, hiking, biking and horseback riding will take you far, far away from it all onto volcanoes and deep inside rainforests. The Kohala Coast is graced with several beautiful places to stay. Visitors looking for luxurious amenities will find them at the Four Seasons Resort Hualalai, Fairmont Orchid, Hawaii, Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, Mauna Lani Resort and Hapuna Beach Prince Hotel. While on The Big Island, don’t miss the chance to see eleven types of terrain in one helicopter tour. Strap in and prepare yourself for jaw-dropping grandeur. Sunshine Helicopters offers four types of tours on request. (www.sunshinehelicopters.com) Some would argue that you’ve never seen a truly majestic sunset until you’ve seen one from the observatory at Mauna Kea, named the white mountain for its snowcapped peak. The Hawaii Forest and Trail tour agency will take you up to their collection of telescopes for a sunset view and dinner at a historic ranch nearby. (www.hawaii-forest.com) YVC

About the Writer Agha Khan lives in Manhattan and writes for luxury lifestyle publications.

[email protected]

• Many well-heeled visitors opt to rent pri-vate homes rather than stay at one of the hotels or resorts. Kauai Chill maintains three homes in Hanalei – one oceanfront and two with mountain views, all of which can include maid, catering and massage services. (www.kauaichill.com) Secret Beach Hideaway is another slice of heaven on the North Shore offering pri-vate cottages on acres of land on one of the area’s most beautiful beaches. (www.secretbeachkauai.com)

• Want to be in trusted hands? Have Pure

Kauai organize your accommodations and time in Kauai through their spe-cial spa and adventure getaways. Pure Kauai will arrange exceptional North Shore accommodations in private con-dos or architecturally masterful estates. Then the capable staff will tone you with hiking, snorkeling, horseback rid-ing, kayaking, personal training, and yoga and pamper you with massages, facials and healthy meals. It is a full-service experience with no expense spared. (www.purekauai.com)

Kauai Inside Tips

• Although the Hapuna Beach Prince and Mauna Kea Beach are sister hotels, rates at the Hapuna are invariably less expensive with no less service or desir-able location.

Hawaii Inside Tips

Lava RocksCrashing Surf on Black Sand Beach on the Big Island of Hawaii.

When you charter a SEADREAM mega-yacht you will provide an exclusive experience for your guests in an atmosphere ofluxury and casual perfection that is unmatched by any resort hotel or large cruise ship.

SEADREAM is perfect for couples on a romantic getaway, small groups, or as a charter for meetings, incentive rewards, executive retreatsor simply a celebration with family and friends. SEADREAM Charter Coordinators will work closely with you to ensure that your event

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With only 55 ocean view staterooms and an award winning crew of 92, be prepared to be “Splendidly Spoiled”.

In 2004 and 2005 Berlitz rated SEADREAM YACHT CLUB “Utterly Exclusive” above luxury. SEADREAM made the Condé Nast Traveler’sGold List, scoring a perfect 100 for Service and higher than any other passenger vessel for Cuisine. Travel+Leisure 2004 World’s Best Awards

recognized SEADREAM I and II the highest of all vessels in Service, Cuisine and Value.

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and Leeward Islands and the British Virgin Islands.For our most current pricing and itineraries please contact your travel professional, yacht broker or SEADREAM YACHT CLUB

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THE MEDITERRANEAN

Port Grimaud:

Luxury living

with a yacht in

your yard!

The development he designed in the Gulf of Saint-Tropez in the south of France has attracted investors and yacht owners from

all over the world who appreciate his excellent taste in real estate and the perfect location on the Mediterranean Sea. An added attraction is the mild micro-climate and sheltered harbour that Port Grimaud enjoys, which is thanks to protection from the Alps to the north. Just think Venice but in the south of France! The exclusive complex with its playful colours was designed to resemble the romantic Italian city with the luxury homes built on a number of islands connected by Venetian-style bridges.

A Vision Realised Built on the spot where the Greeks built Athenopolis 2000 years ago, this luxurious living location was a swampland when Spoerry pur-chased the land and started building the marina village in 1966. However, he was inspired by the prime location, heavenly mountain views and accessibility to the Mediterranean Sea. The fact that it was a swamp did not deter him. This idyl-lic location is heaven for yacht owners who, like Spoerry, wish to own a property which allows direct access by water and a safe and secure place to moor your luxury craft. Each house has its own private mooring pier. The picturesque canals that interweave among the pretty pastel-coloured houses with terracotta tiled rooftops allow you to safely maneuver your yacht to home base. Port Grimaud is an excellent marina as it is sheltered and protected from the winds from the East and the biting Mistral from the West. The dream setting could not look more differ-ent today in comparison to its marshy origins a mere 45 years ago. Port Grimaud is now a thriv-ing and sought after port, attracting the rich,

famous and cream of the crop yacht owners. The port promises to seduce you, but if considering purchasing a property, you may have to wait to enjoy her watery ways! According to the real estate agents, there is a waiting list for homes to come on the market.

Fancy Fishermen Homes With only approximately 3,500 houses built the elite vie for a slice of the prestigious port prop-erties. Three types of houses were developed, mai-son de pêcheur (fisherman’s house), which con-sist of 85m2 of living space and three bedrooms; bungalows (compact 60m2 with two bedrooms); and maison large (large house), so called because that’s what they are – over 100m2 with three or four bedrooms. There are three sections in the complex: section one is a pedestrian zone and the other two sections are secured by gates - security in the complex is high on the agenda of the man-agement company so owners can relax knowing their yacht and property are well protected.

Village Life When the heat hits a high, this little port’s cafes and terraces are a hive of summer fun. Before stopping by the local outdoor market, drop into the small church (a Catholic mass is followed by a Protestant service on Sunday mornings). Even those atheists among us will admire the impressive interior with stained glass windows by Vasarely. It is just one of the many culturally rich visits you will make while at Port Grimaud. The marketplace is where residents shop for locally grown food and wine from nearby vineyards and there is a scrumptious selection of restaurants to suit all palates. One fabulous seafood restaurant, a favourite of Andie McDowell when in town, is La Table du Mareyeur, run by a Scottish man and his

Home Sweet PortOnce upon a short time ago a French man

named François Spoerry had a unique and

watery vision for his yacht. His wish was

to create a beautiful home where he could

moor his boat in the backyard – the vision-

ary Gallic was an avid sailor as well as

being a creative architect. And lucky for an

elite few, his wish came true.

WRITTEN AND PHOTGRAPHED

BY PAULA FARQUHARSON


wife (10 & 11 place des Artisans) Tel:+33 (0)4 94 56 06 77. They will even deliver dinner to your yacht if you don’t feel like stepping ashore. If you do wander away from moor-home for a night out on the town but don’t want to drink and sail, rest assured a water-taxi will whisk you home!

A Village with a View Unlike its contemporary port the medieval vil-lage of Grimaud has its roots steeped in the Gallo-Roman period. Until the end of the 19th century the Gulf of Saint-Tropez was called the Golfe de Grimaud, such was the importance of the town for its strategic vantage point. The ruins of the 17th cen-tury château dominate the hill above the port and churches and chapels from the 11th, 15th and 18th centuries trace the religious history of the village. There is even a windmill (St Roch)! A stroll around the old town pops up surprises at every turn: pretty squares, tiny flowered facades and shaded little lanes as well as the ancient burgesses houses with cross-barred windows and domineering doorways. No doubt you will stumble upon the locals playing a traditional game of boules or pétanque. If you fancy dabbling in antique hunting, try the market at Place Neuve, held every second Sunday of the month (March through October) or at Jas des Robert, every Sunday morning. Or for some wine dégustation to prepare the palate for a liquid lunch, visit the caves of the cooperative of Grimaud winegrowers, located between the medieval village and the port at 36 avenue des oliviers. There are many other domains to choose from to find the perfect bouquet. June 16th this year marks the 40th anniversary of Port Grimaud so make a date in your diary for a day and night of musical fun.

Browsing the Region The region around Grimaud is exquisite. Within a stone’s throw (7km) is the famous Saint-Tropez, of Brigette Bardot fame. Its quaint fishing village ambiance is still intact while super yachts hover in the port unloading their rich and famous passengers, who enjoy a stroll through the tiny art gallery-lined streets. There is a multitude of leisure activities in which to indulge. You can rent motor boats, play tennis or golf at the Country Club de Grimaud or the Beauvallon Club, go horse riding or simply head to the hills for a gentle amble. YVC

About the Writer Paula Farquharson is editor of The Riviera Times newspa-

per. Originally from Ireland, she worked in New York and

is now based in Nice, France, where she learned to sail.

[email protected]

The property complex is a private copro-priété, which means that the houses are owned by individuals but the complex is run and maintained by a management company. The water area is approximately 27 ha., the quays lined with gardens and fishermen houses total 12 km in length, the minimum water depth in the main channels is about 3.5 m and 2.15 m in the side channels. The international airport of Nice is a mere 72 kms away. Nearby villages worth a visit are the famous Saint-Tropez (7kms), its lesser known but some say more beautiful sister town of Ramatuelle (10 kms), Ste Maxime (7kms) and Gassin (9kms).

The Mediterranean Sea is unusual in that the tide is very weak (less than a quarter of a metre compared to tides in the north of France of up to 15 metres) and there are no waves as you find elsewhere in other waters. The reason being, there is not the immense space required to form them. Only when the cold Mistral wind blows will small waves appear. The surface water temperature var-ies with the amount of sunshine, from 16C in winter to a very pleasant 22C in summer, ideal for yachting vacations.

Contact pointGrimaud Tourist Office1 Bld. des Aliziers - 83310 Grimaud. Tel: +33 (0)4 94 55 43 83 e-mail: [email protected]

Harbour facts:Port Grimaud IHarbour Master’s Office: +33(0)4 94 56 29 88Email : [email protected] places : 1100Public mooring places : 287Maximum length : 55 m

Port Grimaud IIHarbour Master’s Office: +33(0)4 94 56 73 65email: [email protected] places : 751Public mooring places : 66Maximum length : 18 m

MarinaHarbour Master’s Office: +33(0)4 94 56 02 45email: [email protected] places: 500Public mooring places: 60Maximum length : 20 m

Port Grimaud Info

Each house’s design is unique and has its own private mooring spot

Venetian-style footbridges connect the Provencal style houses, painted in a myr-iad of colours from salmon pink to terracotta, framed by traditional lavender and green shutters.


YACHT PROFILE

Bennetti Classic 120’

W ords such as understated elegance, classy sophistication with a chic, con-temporary edge easily bring to mind

the unique and beautifully tailored interiors you will find as you board Wild Thyme. Cabinetry in highly polished rich cherry-woods feature throughout the yacht with the exception of The Sky Lounge, which features warm honey oak fit-tings, all of which are complemented by a colour palette of creams, bronzes and caramels and sleek textured fabrics and trimmings. The overall impression is one of a beautiful and tranquil backdrop where guests can relax wherever their cruising itinerary takes them. Luxurious colours and fabrics have been cho-sen to create a universal and timeless appeal. Colours have been deliberately and subtly linked to open out the space and give a harmonious and continuous flow as guests move through the yacht. Furniture and lighting have also been care-fully selected to complement the decor theme using an abundance of antique brass and crystal to give sparkle and light.

The main salon and formal dining areas are dressed in delicately embroidered silks in soft cof-fees and creams, with stunningly beautiful tassel trims and onyx marble flooring, bar-top and cof-fee tables. The Sky Lounge has a slightly less for-mal air to it with the oak contrasting with smartly tailored soft furnishings in black and bronze, tying in with the sophisticated black leather desk-top and bar-front. For additional sparkle, black gran-ite has been used in the bar-top and coffee table. The Master Suite, on the main deck, is deco-rated with silks in ivory and gold and offers a stun-ning view from the panoramic bow window. The VIP and Twin Guest Cabins below deck employ rich fabrics with exquisitely designed soft furnish-ings and marble bathrooms. To top it all the inte-rior colour scheme has been extended to all exter-nal deck areas with teak and rattan deck furniture and matching lounger and scatter cushions. In addition the yacht is fully equipped with the latest state of the art entertainment extras and an extensive list of water toys, as well as zero speed stabilizers for maximum comfort at sea. YVC

Information courtesy of Blue Water Yachting www.bluewateryachting.com

WildThyme

Just recently launched from the Benetti Shipyard in Viareggio, Wild Thyme is the first of

the Benetti Classic 120’ series to become available to the charter market. She is already

in popular demand with plans to cruise the West Mediterranean this summer. Leaving her

home port on the French Riviera she will cruise down to Naples, Capri and Sicily and back

again before heading to Dublin for The Ryder Cup in September - a debut season packed

with new adventures.

Information



Accommodations: .........................10 Guests 3 Double Staterooms, 2 Twin Guest

Staterooms, En-suite Shower/WCs 12 Day Guests, 7 Crew with own facilities

Length: ..................................... 120ft / 36.6mBeam: ............................................ 26ft / 7.9mBuilder: ................................................BenettiModel: ............................. Benetti Classic 120Year: ........................................................2006Engines: ..............................2 x 1,550 hp CATCruising Speed: ............................... 15 knotsMax Speed: ...................................... 16 knotsConsumption: ....................................300 l/hrFlag: ......................................................BritishLeisure: ...............................Jet Tender, JetSki

(Licence required), Water Skis, Wakeboard, 2x Kayaks, Inflatable water-toys

Dive sets (Rendez-vous only), Snorkelling

Wile Thyme Specifications


We Charter the World... From Palm Trees to Glaciers

www.bluewateryachtcharters.com(800) 732 7245

Blue Water Yacht Charters, Inc.EST. 1983

M/V NORSEMAN - 108ft 10/12 gueststarting at $45,000/week inclusive

BVIsailing.comGALAPAGOSsailing.com

800-648-3393


AFRICA

With an abundance of wildlife, coupled with rugged landscapes ranging from the sprawl-

ing Serengeti to lush rainforests and pristine beaches, the region is truly a destination for

the ultimate traveler. The sunsets seem richer, the water seems more blue, the smiles of

locals more sincere. Photographers often insist that taking pictures in Africa is the easi-

est assignment there is...since the pictures really take themselves. The descriptions and

stories told by others who had seen the continent’s raw beauty and witnessed its visual and

soulful magic firsthand, inspired me. So after graduating from college I volunteered and

served as a Communications Director at Daystar University in Kenya. It was a position that

was indeed challenging, but provided me with the tremendous opportunity of being able to

explore wondrous locales that had previously existed only in my imagination.

Travel Diary: Zanzibar Island See why East Africa is widely regarded as one of the most beautiful places on earth

WRITTEN BY JAMES FOSTER


AFRICA

Because of an academic strike orchestrated by the students of the university, faculty members were given time off until the strike was resolved. After speaking with many of my African friends, it

was determined Zanzibar Island off the coast of Tanzania was not to be missed before my time expired as a volunteer. Together with another friend, we devised a route and took the plunge. Now, as the reader, you must understand several things before I go any further. Getting to Zanzibar Island from the US is a relatively easy process. Book your tickets and accommodations through a travel agent (I can’t stress that enough). You would most likely fly from the U.S. to Amsterdam, then to Dar es Salaam, Tanzania. While customs is run inefficiently and can take some time, officials typically don’t harass Americans. From Dar, Air Tanzania flies six times weekly to the island and ZanAir and Coastal Aviation have daily flights. Once you arrive, a driver will pick you up and bring you directly to your hotel. Simple. But, since my friend and I weren’t being paid at the time, our goal was to not only see as much of Zanzibar Island and the greater Tanzanian region as possible, but also to do so in the most cost-effi-cient manner - therefore, I would strongly advise against taking the route we choose. We hopped a bus from Nairobi, Kenya, to Moshi, Tanzania, which took roughly thirteen hours (including the border hassle and various stops along the way). Occasionally we were able to nod off, but mostly we just gazed out at the scenery unfolding before us. Tall, dry grasses leaned slightly in the African breeze, and acacia trees speckled the landscape. Moshi is a bustling mountain town that serves as a general launching point for many trekkers hoping to tackle Mount Kilimanjaro, Africa’s tallest peak. After spending the night in a questionable hotel and playing in a local rugby tournament the following day, we hopped yet another bus for Dar es Salaam; approximately eight hours later, we had arrived in Tanzania’s port city. When we exited the bus we were immediately set upon by a group of aggressive “salesmen” – if you can call them that. These men wait at bus terminals for tourists to disembark, then bombard them with offers for hotels, tours, car rentals, crafts – you name it. In Africa, these “salesmen” can become pretty aggressive, so it’s always wise to at least look and act like you know what you’re doing. Once you’ve adamantly established that you’re not in the market for what they’re selling, they’ll usually leave you alone and that will provide you with enough time to create some space from the commotion, gather your things, then determine

if in fact you are interested in what they’re selling – and in our case, we were interested in getting to Zanzibar. We were ushered into a windowless storefront, then promptly led behind a curtain into the “travel agent’s” office, which was nothing more than a card table and plastic chair. He offered us two options: taking a ferry out to the island, or tak-ing a plane, which took about a half-hour and cost roughly $50 USD. Inexplicably, the ferry took approximately five hours and cost about $35 USD – needless to say, we chose to fly. We had planned to spend the majority of our time along the north end of the island where there’s typically a younger crowd and more afford-able accommodations, but we also wanted to experience the historical and cultural epicenter of the island as well – Stone Town. Zanzibar Island, once under the rule of the Portuguese, Arabs, and British, has evolved into something of a melting pot, and Stone Town is its truest testament to the cultural, architectural and religious inter-mixing. Coral-lime houses and a virtual sea of white walls drew us into a maze of cobbled back alleys and side streets, all boasting their own bazaars. The smell of exotic spices mixed with the aroma of a shopkeeper’s strawberry-flavored tobacco being slowly puffed from an ornate hookah tick-led our nostrils. Intricately designed doors on the homes welcomed visitors with greetings in Arabic. We stopped and bought some bananas and freshly cut mangoes from a street vendor who offered a toothless smile and a genuine “Asante sana” (‘thank you very much’ in KiSwahili). Mopeds putted past us and bicycle bells jingled as their riders casually made their way to the sea-

Fishermen (opposite) Fishermen going out to sea at sunrise on Zanzibar Island off the coast of Tanzania, Africa

Catch of the Day Colourfully dressed Swahili woman walking on Zanzibar beach after having shopped at fishing boats returning from the deep sea

Stone Town Motion photo of children on their way to school in Stowntown alley ways on Zanzibar Island, off the coast of Tanzania, Africa


AFRICA

side promenade, Jamituri Gardens, to unload a fresh catch from their banana-leafed baskets. As we strolled along, stopping briefly at each stand to look at the crafts and exchange pleas-antries with the vendors, the ocean air filled our lungs and intoxicated us with an remark-able feeling of island ease. The quick pace we usually kept slowed to a lethargic saunter as our feet became hopelessly heavy. Deciding what to eat, or more appropri-ately, what not to eat, became our biggest chal-lenge of the evening. Each candlelit kiosk we passed looked and smelled more appetizing than the previous one, and with the price of a dish ranging anywhere from .25 to .50 cents, we stuffed ourselves with octopus smoked in banana leaves, sweetmeats, fishcakes, crab meat wrapped in chapattis with a Peptang pep-per sauce and the freshest fruit I’d ever tasted, covered with a sugary-sweet milk cream. As the sun began to set on Stone Town, tour-ists and locals alike congregated in seaside can-tinas to sip Tusker beers and swill large glasses of rum with sliced limes. The smells of cigar smoke and citrus cocktails mixed with the soft breezes floating through the open doors and windows. Live bands playing coastal Swahili music lightened the mood even further and before we knew it, the day had passed into night and any cares or concerns we had melted with the setting sun. We had previously booked a room in town that would suffice for the two days we planned to stay; the cost was reasonable (about $15 USD per night). It was centrally located, clean, had running water, security and a decent bar – good enough for us. Because of the island’s tourist influx in the mid-to-late 1990s, several legitimately luxurious tourist hotels have been constructed, and both the Zanzibar Serena Inn

and the Dhow Palace Hotel are immaculate. We woke in the morning to the Muslim call to prayer, which by now we had become accus-tomed to while living in Africa, but for every mosque’s call to prayer, bells would ring in Stone Town’s many churches; it reminded us of the very diverse island we were on. We had decided to rent mopeds for the day and cruise as much of the island as we could, and since we only had 600 square miles to cover, we figured it to be an attainable goal. While the dirt roads were treacherously pock-marked with gaping holes left by heavy traffic after steady rains, traversing our way through the villages proved well worth the trouble. We were greeted with laughter, friendly smiles and playful children, all wanting to interact with new visitors. We explored Zanzibar’s many beaches and idled at Mangawapani for a swim along the stunning west coast of the island. The sun was shining but the subtle breezes made the air comfortably warm. We vis-ited the Marahubi Palace ruins approximately 4 miles up the coast from Stone Town and stared slack-jawed at the palatial site, imagin-ing the self-indulgence and utter decadence Sultan Baraghash partook in on the grounds that housed his wife and 99 concubines. We observed the mighty supporting columns and many Persian Baths and pieced together what the palace would have looked like presently had a fire not destroyed the property in 1899. Seeing the palace was certainly a bonus, but really we traveled to Zanzibar to take relax-ation to a whole new level, so we headed north on a scouting mission and determine if Nungwi was the best beach to stay at for our next leg of the trip. Sitting under the thatched roof of an open-air restaurant on the water, enjoying some chapattis, lentils and a couple

Churches Zanzibar was a central point of the slave trade and at abolotion this church was built on the site of where slaves were sold at market

Tropical garden in Zanzibar Resort

“ Your entire attitude and frame of mind can be transformed through the simple pleasures of fresh fish, ocean air, and juicy slices of mango”


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AFRICA

cold Tusker beers, we clinked our glasses to tranquility. As evening slowly approached, familiar scenes of candlelit kiosks and fresh catches began to repeat themselves and we got the distinct feeling that Zanzibar doesn’t see much change – which nobody seemed to mind. We treated ourselves to a “fancy” dinner at the upscale Zanzibar Serena (which cost us about $11 USD apiece), then made our way to one of the smaller oceanfront hotels that the locals claimed had the best views in Stone Town – they weren’t lying. We arrived at the expansive ter-race overlooking the water and ordered some drinks, then choose three flavors of tobacco off the hookah menu. We sat cross-legged on a Persian rug with elaborately-decoracted pillows sipping cocktails and smoking from our hoo-kah which rested perfectly on a small wooden table situated next to us. We laughed and drank with locals, met other travelers from all over the world, and basically just enjoyed the stars, the moon and the cool night air. For our last day in Stone Town we had arranged to swim with dolphins, so we had to get an early start. Though I’m not a regular caffeine drinker, I found the thick, rich coffee of East Africa irresistible, and fortunately it’s served in abundance on Zanzibar. After being outfitted with snorkel gear at a beach along the west coast, we drifted for roughly an hour (which seemed like an eternity due to my hand-icap of motion sickness), then caught up with a school of dolphins swimming approximately 15 feet from us. Since they were wild, we never got a chance to come in actual contact with them, but just swimming that close was worth the $7

USD we paid. We then swam to a large lagoon that housed an abundance of sea life like I had never seen before, including a turtle that our guide claimed was over 100 years old. The only unfortunate outcome of the day was that we didn’t have enough time to take a tour of the spice plantations, but I guess that just means I’ll have to make a return trip to Zanzibar very soon. After two days we left Stone Town for Nungwi along the north coast. This area of the island is known for its seemingly endless stretches of beach, its plentiful game fishing, and cheap guesthouses for young travelers. We paid $5 USD per night for our beach bungalow and access to showers. The sand was flour-white and just as fine to the touch, the water, a luminescent turquoise blue. Friendly beach bars with swinging hammocks and talking par-rots enticed thirsty patrons to take a load off and watch the tide move out with a tall glass of rum in hand or a cool bucket of beers. At night, guests had the option of paying $2 USD for an all-you-can-eat seafood feast on the beach, or walking down the road to one of the village’s oceanfront restaurants. Acoustic guitars gently strumming classic Swahili music were regu-lar fixtures at late-night bonfires, and moonlit swims in the temperate waters were nothing out of the ordinary. Travelers from all walks of life came together with locals to share sto-ries and enjoy each other’s company around a crackling fire. Lying in bed, the gently crashing surf lulled us to sleep each night, only occasion-ally awakened by the distant thud of a coconut hitting the fine, white sand. We stayed in Zanzibar for 10 days and returned only when we learned the strike had been resolved. Our friends all said we looked “different” when we arrived back in Kenya, but it wasn’t our deep olive tans or my now sun-bleached blond hair – they said it was in our faces, particularly our smiles. Zanzibar Island is one of those truly beautiful places on earth where your entire attitude and frame of mind can be transformed through the simple plea-sures of fresh fish, ocean air, and juicy slices of mango. YVC

About the Writer After attending the University of San Francisco, James

lived in East Africa, then eventually settled in New

York to pursue a full-time career. He landed a job with

one of the elite luxury personal concierge companies

and worked as a Dedicated Account Manager for nine

months before leaving to pursue other endeavours.

He now devotes most of his time to Africa’s chari-

table causes as a freelance grant writer. In addition,

he plays semi-professional rugby for the New York

Athletic Club and remains an avid traveler.

[email protected]

Transportation – Old and New A view of the shipping options off the coast of Zanzibar, Tanzania - a high-speed ferry or a tradi-tional sailing dhow

Information




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ITALY

The Amalfi Coast & Sicily


WRITTEN BY MIRIAM CAIN

Replete with history, the land that gracefully

extends along the warm waters of the Amalfi

Coast has seen the birth of empires and cra-

dled the growth of civilisations. Arguably the

best way to explore the west coast of Italy is

by boat, providing easy access to quiet back-

waters and anchorages far from the madding

crowds of landlubbers.

SublimeVertigo


The beauty and tranquillity of the Amalfi coastline stems from a com-bination of old-world charm and Italy’s appreciation of the finer things in life, making it a wonderful place for an intriguing yet relaxing

holiday. Follow in the footsteps of countless writ-ers and composers and allow yourself to succumb to the allure of the Amalfi Coast with a charter aboard Parsifal III, followed by a few days residing ashore to explore the historic island of Sicily. Coloured by a long history of splendour and suffering, the Amalfi Coast has barely changed since the Roman emperors made it their head-quarters in the first century AD. A place where lemon terraces are chiselled into mountainsides, it is too steep to support much in the way of modern development, meaning this stretch of landscape largely remains idyllically untouched. Unsurprisingly, the Amalfi Coast has long been a magnet for travellers attracted to its glorious cul-tural and artistic heritage, beautiful countryside and wonderful food. Hotels and restaurants can be found in splendid villas and medieval convents, some of which welcomed the first Grand Tourists almost two centuries ago. From cities boasting innumerable treasures of Renaissance palaces, baroque masterpieces and Roman remains, to sun-drenched coves hugging the emerald sea, the warmth and personality of Italy shines through. The islands speckled along the Amalfi coast-line have the same irresistible appeal. From the sophisticated islands of Capri and Ischia to the dramatically positioned towns that dot the main-land, your charter will take you on a stimulating journey of old-world charm and five-star luxury. You will step aboard your private yacht in the bustling Bay of Naples. Your home for the next eight days, the 54m Parsifal III is hailed to be the fastest Perini Navi yet built. As you sail across the bay to the volcanic island of Ischia with a Campari and soda to hand, watch the beguiling landscape scattered with relics of bygone empires fade in the distance before you turn your attention to fresh wonders. Known as ‘the island of well being’, Ischia is famous for its thermal springs and therapeutic spas, and has long been a source of inspiration for artists, musicians and writers. Here you can step ashore and browse the boutiques of San’t Angelo, or anchor off San Montano Bay and take the tender to the Mezzatorre Resort & Spa for a thermal treat-ment in the resort’s old tower. Dating back to the 16th century, the tower was used by local natives to defend themselves against the Saracens and it affords wonderful views over Mount Epomeo, the Gulf of Naples and Vesuvius. Following an after-noon of watersports in the sun-drenched bay of Punta Molino, dine on the perfectly situated terrace of the Grand Hotel Punta Molino, which promises panoramic views over the imposing castle that was once the summer residence of the kings of Aragon.

After a relaxing night aboard Parsifal III it is time to sail back across the bay to the mainland. Balanced like a ship’s prow high above the sea, Ravello has no beach but makes up for it with gardens and views that have inspired more than their share of mas-terpieces, most famously D. H. Lawrence’s book Lady Chatterley’s Lover. One of the many gardens in Ravello, that belonging to Villa Cimbrone, is gener-ally acknowledged to be Italy’s most romantic, with its well-named Terrace Of Infinity. Roman aristocrats took refuge here from the barbarians in the 5th century AD, and at the beginning of the 20th century the medieval villa and its gar-dens were made into the stunning setting that they are today. Stroll down the wiste-ria-draped Avenue Of The Immensity until you reach the Belvedere Of Infinity, a sheer 4,000m drop with busts of emperors and the thinnest railings between you and the dramatic drop. The 13th century Villa Rufolo, with its Moorish cloister, is more famous for virtuosos than views. Wagner was so smitten by the gardens here that he re-cre-ated its grounds as Klingsor’s magic gardens of seduction in his opera Parsifal. Every summer, the gardens are the stage for a festival in honour of Wagner, and your charter broker will be happy to secure tickets for you prior to your charter. Italians know how to extract maximum pleasure and beauty from everyday things and it is worth extending your stay in Ravello to sip a little prosecco wine as you enjoy the tranquillity of an evening on the square.

Ravello Scenic Villa Ravello has no beach but makes up for it with gardens and views that have inspired more than their share of masterpieces,

Villa Cimbrone BalconyOne of the statues on the balcony on the sea of Villa Cimbrone, one of the most famous villas of the Amalfi Coast in Ravello.


ITALY

Pompeii is close by and the following day your crew will accompany you with refreshments as you wander around the ruins. A ghost town since AD79, Pompeii was buried under tiny stones and ash from Vesuvius until 1763 when excavation of the city began. Much of our knowledge of the Romans and their way of life has come from Pompeii, whose state of preservation is astonish-ing. As you wander in and out of people’s houses and sit on their seats in the amphitheatre you will be transported back to a remarkable civilisation founded on slavery. Fortunately the town of Sorrento, perched on the cliffs, was far enough from Vesuvius to survive the blast that buried Pompeii. In the early 19th century, Grand Tourists fled the hustle and bustle of Naples for Sorrento and its calm and com-fortable atmosphere, which still remains today. Before joining the ‘It’ crowd in Capri, step ashore and embrace the wraparound views of the Bay of Naples from the cliff-top terraced walkways of the Museo Correale di Terranova, followed by a refreshing ice cream from a gelateria. For those who have worked up more of an appetite, res-ervations can be made at the Excelsior Vittoria’s ‘Bosuet’ terrace and bar, whose guestbook boasts many famous names including Richard Strauss, The Prince of Wales who also returned Edward VII, and more recently Sophia Lauren and Luciano Pavarotti. Originally part of the Sorrentine peninsula, the island of Capri has been through many per-sonality changes over the centuries. The dazzling island was the playground of Augustus and his son Tiberius and, as one of the world’s first tour-ist destinations, Capri’s fate was sealed in 1826 with the discovery of the iridescent Blue Grotto, a spectacular cave which is illuminated a cobalt blue certain times of the day when the sunlight

passes through an underwater cavity and shines through the water creating a blue reflection that illuminates the cavern. During the summer the island is a victim of its own charms as visitors arrive in flocks. Thankfully, aboard Parsifal III you can enjoy a vast array of watersports around the more secluded anchorages to the west of the island. As the crowds depart late in the after-noon, the discreet glamour of Capri emerges. Take a hair-raising ride up to Anacapri to visit the paradisiacal gardens of Villa San Michele before an aperitif on the Piazzetta and dinner at the Quisisana – an A-list favourite since the 1930s. The next morning, wake to a beautiful sunrise over the Faraglioni rocks or, if you’re early enough, take the chairlift and soar above a profusion of flowers to the top of Monte Solaro to experience a staggering sunrise illuminating views of Capri and the Bay of Naples. On day four or five, depending on your pref-erence, you’ll sail across the Gulf of Salerno to the charming town of Positano, dramatically posi-tioned alongside ice-cream coloured houses spill-ing almost vertically down the terraced mountain. At the peak of the dolce vita era, Positano rivalled Capri for jet-set glamour and the town is still popu-lar, but minus the day-trippers that flock to Capri thanks to the mayor’s ruling to minimise noise and promote the finer things in life. Both the harbour and the off-lying islets, known as Li Galli, are ideal for a leisurely day of watersports. Enjoy an apéritif on the terrace of Le Sirenuse and admire the view of Parsifal III in the harbour below as the crew set up dinner on the aft deck, ready for your return. Further down the coast, the traditional fishing town of Amalfi boasts past glories as a maritime state. The town is no larger in size than neighbour-ing Positano or Ravello, but the whole coastline was named after it because of its history. Home to wealthy Italian merchants, defeated by Pisa, and destroyed by an earthquake, Amalfi was a mari-time republic rivalling Pisa, Genoa and Venice. At its core is Piazza Duomo, from which a flight of stairs sweeps to an immense cathedral whose façade overlooks the stunning coastline below. Explore the town before retiring for an overnight sail south towards Sicily and the Aeolian islands. Volcanoes created the Aeolian islands, and two of the islands’ volcanoes are still active. Inhabited since the fifth millennium BC, they were named after Aeolus, god of the winds, and are perfect for peace and quiet and, naturally, sailing. You’ll awake to find yourself anchored off the volcanic island of Stromboli, where the volcano has been in a state of near-continuous eruption for 2,000 years. Characterised by its black volcanic sand, the island has many crystal-clear bays, ideal for watersports. Stromboli is best observed at sunset from the decks of a yacht, so in the early evening set sail for the most fashionable of the Aeolian islands, Panarea, and join the Milanese yachting crowd with an

Famous town of Positano Dramatically positioned alongside ice-cream coloured houses spilling almost vertically down the terraced mountain

“ the Amalfi Coast has long been a magnet for travellers attracted to its glorious cultural and artistic heritage, beautiful countryside and wonderful food”


apéritif on deck while watching the sun set over neighbouring Stromboli. This is where jet-setting, trend-setting Italians hang out. Step ashore and join them at Da Pina, just above the harbour – the family-run restaurant is considered to be the best on the island. After a peaceful night’s anchorage, set sail for Panarea’s offshore islands, and anchor off the impressive Basiluzzo for lunch before setting sail for the largest island in the chain, Lipari. Home to some of the Aeolian’s most notable buildings including an 11th century cathedral, impressive castles and a 16th century Spanish fort, the island has the air of a place where time has stood still. For great atmosphere and heady music, the Kasbah in the main town has a relaxed and stylish atmo-sphere. Awake for your final sail aboard Parsifal III through the Messina Straits and the fleets of tall-masted swordfishing boats to Taormina – the Monte Carlo of Sicily, where you will bid farewell to Parsifal III and her crew and join the landlubbers ashore for three or four nights. The rugged island of Sicily is yours to explore for the next three days. Strategically positioned between North Africa and Italy, Sicily has suffered a long history of inva-sion and the influence of the Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs and Normans is visible in the form of beautiful tem-ples, colourful mosaics and historic buildings. Towering 250 metres above the stunning coastline, Taormina is one of Sicily’s most famous hilltop towns. It is one of the smartest and most exclusive small towns in Italy, so why not stroll past the boutiques and restaurants before taking a helicopter tour over the spectacular summit of Mount Etna? Situated in a vast natural park, Mount Etna at 3,000 metres, is Europe’s highest active volcano. It has five cra-ters at its summit and 260 volcanic cones flanked by rivers of lava. From here, journey to the southwest coast and the Valley Of Temples, where the vast archaeological remains are unrivalled by any in the world. Sitting on its own rocky outcrop and flanked by two sandy beaches on Sicily’s south eastern

coast, Il Castello Di Falconara has been built in stages since the 14th century. The original defen-sive structure is a dramatic sight, whereas inside, the 17th and 18th century guest quarters provide an array of reception rooms and terraces and beautiful gardens. Dine among antiques and fam-ily heirlooms and enjoy a moonlit stroll along the private beach before retiring to your own castle room for the night. From a castle to a Benedictine abbey, the Santa Maria Del Bosco is located in the hills south of Sicily’s capital Palermo. Dramatically situated at the edge of an oak wood, the abbey is a unique property with accommodation in cells (once occupied by Benedictine monks) overlook-ing one of two huge 16th century cloisters. The surrounding countryside and villages provide an insight into a side of Sicily that is rarely seen by visitors. The capital Palermo, which under Saracen and Norman rule became one of the most important cities in Europe, lies to the north of the island. An opulent city, Palermo has many fine examples of Norman and Baroque architecture, including the Palazzo Federico. One of the oldest and historical-ly most important buildings in Palermo, the 12th century palazzo’s sleeping quarters have been kept exactly as they would have been in the 17th century, apart from added bathrooms. Located in the old centre of Palermo, the palazzo is a great base for your final few days on Sicily from which to explore the Cathedral, and other astounding baroque churches and buildings. YVC

About the Writer Miriam Cain is the communications and publications

manager for Camper & Nicholsons International. She is

also the managing editor for the the luxury travel maga-

zine Sea & I.

[email protected]>

Gulf of Naples

InformationCNI can create a unique charter along

the Amalfi Coast and through the Aeolian Islands. For further information on

Parsifal III or any of the yachts in the CNI fleet visit www.cnconnect.com

Length: ............................. 177.17’ [54m]Beam: ............................... 35.1’ [10.7m]Draft: ..................................14.76’ [4.5m]Builder: ..................................Perini NaviYear: ................................................2005Engines: ...................Caterpillar C30 12VSpeed: ................................. 10/12 knotsCabins: ...............................................5/6Guests: ...............................................12Crew: ....................................................9

Parsifal III General Information


ASIA

Administered by India, the 300 or so Andaman Islands are the highest peaks of a sub-

merged mountain range that stretches from Sumatra in the south to the Irawaddy delta

in the north. The Andaman Islands have everything you could desire from an adventur-

ous eco-tourism charter destination. There are literally hundreds of deserted islands to

explore, each one seemingly more spectacular than the last. The beaches are magnifi-

cently pristine. The snorkeling and scuba diving is amongst the best in the world with an

almost untouched marine ecosystem. There is a live volcano, thousands of square miles

of untouched jungle, exotic and thriving wildlife and primitive hunter-gatherer tribes. The

fishing (catch & release) is probably the best in the world. The Andamans is also start-

ing to develop a superb reputation as a frontier surfing destination where the reef breaks

have never been surfed before.

The

Andaman Islands

Floating in splendid isolation in

the middle of the Bay of Bengal

WRITTEN BY PAUL JOHNSON


ASIA

Sitting astride the ancient monsoon trade routes between China and India, the Andaman Islands first appeared in our historical records during the 2nd Century BC. From the earliest recorded times the

Andamans were infamous for the ferocious, can-nibalistic pygmies who inhabited the islands. Bizarrely the inhabitant’s themselves led to the islands being named the “Andaman” Islands. The small stature of the pygmies and their tradi-tion of wearing trailing grass skirts that resembled a monkey’s tail led to the belief in surrounding countries that these islands were inhabited by devotees of the Hindu monkey god “Handuman”. This resulted in the people being known as the “Handuman people” which ultimately gave rise to the name “Andaman Islands”. With the Andaman Islands’ strategic position directly across the major monsoon trade routes in the Bay of Bengal and with an abundance of fresh water and wildlife, it is very surprising that the Andaman Islands were not colonized or settled in ancient times by India, China or Siam. Perhaps the fearsome reputation of the inhabit-ants discouraged visitors. It is also likely that the pirates, who used the Andaman Islands as a base to attack merchant shipping in the Bay of Bengal, exaggerated the tales of cannibals and warlike tribes to keep competitors and authori-ties away. The descendents of these ferocious negroid pygmies are still there today, although they are somewhat friendlier than their reputation would suggest. Amazingly these tribes still live a tra-ditional hunter-gatherer existence in tracts of Andaman jungle that have been set aside for them. The only warlike tribe today is the Sentinelese who inhabit a tiny isolated island called North Sentinel. This island is roughly circular with a diameter of only 4 miles. Completely surround-ed by fringing coral reef and deep ocean, the Sentinelese live out their lives in complete isola-tion from the outside world. Following the Indian Ocean tsunami in December 2004, the Indian authorities sent a military helicopter to North Sentinel island to check on the Sentinelese. The helicopter returned to Port Blair with several arrows embedded in the underside of the fuse-lage. The message was clear: “We are fine, just leave us alone!” In 2001 we ran a charter in the Andaman Islands for a UNDP sponsored scientific survey of the surrounding coral reefs. During this survey 3 new species of coral were discovered in a survey that encompassed hundreds of miles of pristine reef and a unique and intact underwater eco-system. Clearly there was much to protect. The Andamans was duly declared a World Heritage Site in 2002.

The Andaman Islands are difficult to get to, which keeps them well off the tourist trail. There are only 2 flights per day (one from Kolkota and one from Chennai on the Indian mainland) into Port Blair which is the administrative centre for the islands. There are no international flights into Port Blair, except the occasional private jet. Port Blair is a quaint, colonial, Indian town that looks like it has been dragged from the 1930s into the 21st Century. Three-wheeler auto rick-shaws weave between the more sedate “Lincoln Ambassador” taxis, surrounded by the constant cacophony of sounds and colors of a busy Indian market town. An Indian policeman dressed in khaki uniform and a white pith helmet stands at each road intersection, somehow managing the seemingly suicidal task of directing the traffic. Holy cows, beautifully attired with jewellery and painted horns, stroll unconcernedly along the streets ignoring both the traffic and the police-men. Tourism is very much in its infancy in the Andaman Islands. There are only a tiny handful of yachts that offer charters in this incredibly remote area. With almost no tourists and hardly any fishing fleet we have on occasion spent up to a month in the Andamans without ever seeing another boat or person. This is a truly unique

SV Ilala SV Ilala a 63ft cutter rigged sloop which has been chartering in this area for 8 years. Ilala offers sailing, scuba diving, kayaking and surfing adventure trips. www.ilala.net

MV Taipan IV MV Taipan IV A 64ft luxury motor yacht which is available for charter in the Andaman Islands.

Floating in splendid isolation in

the middle of the Bay of Bengal


ASIA

charter destination for adventurous people who really want to escape from the modern world for a while. The Andaman Islands have never been com-mercially fished. As a result the fish life is truly incredible. As the fish in this area generally die of old age rather than being caught, they grow to a remarkable size. It is quite a strange feeling to be regularly swimming with fish that are much larger than you. I have run out of superlatives to describe the fishing in this area. During a recent trip to the Andamans we went fishing on most days from our dinghy. We would set off from the yacht in the evening trolling lures behind the dinghy along the reef edge. On occasions we actually managed to travel up to 300m without catching a fish! Of all the islands in the Andamans the remote volcano islands of Barren and Narcondum are unique. Located about 100 miles to the east of the main Andaman Islands, these volcanic islands rise almost vertically from ocean depths of more than 2000m. Narcondum is a long-extinct volcano. Barren is very much live with spectacular lava flows into the sea. Diving and snorkeling around these islands is an unforgettable experience. At Barren island, the underwater landscape has a backdrop of black volcanic ash. Against this matte black background the normally vibrant colors of the coral and reef fish seem almost psychedelic. It is essential to plan to visit the Andamans between December and May. December to the end of February is the best time for sailing in the Andamans with warm, sunny conditions and a reliable 20 knots of wind. March and April have little wind and are the best months for diving and snorkeling – this is also the time of year when the migratory whales visit the Andamans. April is the best month for surfing with large swell from the south-west that gives spectacular breaks along the west coast. From May to December the Andamans is effectively closed with strong winds, very rough sea conditions and continuous torrential rain. YVC

About the Writer Paul Johnson is the owner of Ilala Yacht Charters which

offers adventure sailing, diving and kayaking holidays in

the Andaman Islands. All photos courtesy of Ilala Yacht

Charters. [email protected]

[email protected]

Information

Emerald Yacht is a US based booking agency that offers two superb yachts for charter

in the remote Mergui Archipelago. Contact Skip Mansfield for further details. Email:

[email protected] Tel: +1 941 639 4442

“This is a truly unique charter destination for adventurous people who really want to escape from the modern world”

World-Class Fishing The fish in this area generally die of old age rather than being caught, so the ones caught tend to be a remarkable size.

Holy Cows Beautifully attired with jewellery and painted horns stroll unconcernedly along the streets ignoring both the traffic and the policemen.


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SOUTHERN FRANCE

Cruising the Camargue

Cruising the canals of the Camargue in

the South of France is to sample a vaca-

tion experience like no other, as you enjoy

the local food and wine together with the

flexibility, freedom and fun that only a self-

catering yacht vacation can offer.

WRITTEN BY

CAPTAIN MICHAEL HOWORTH

PHOTOGRAPHS BY

FRANCES HOWORTH

The black pearl of the Med


SOUTHERN FRANCE

The Camargue is one of the most remarkable regions in Southern France, combining untamed coun-tryside with traditional villages, walled crusader towns, modern resorts, delightful fishing ports and

the medieval walled city of Agde, often called the ‘black pearl of the Mediterranean.’ At Sete stands the entrance to the spectacular Great Sea Lake of Etang du Thau; the many fishing ports here make it impossible not to stop and sample some sea-food delicacies. The Canal du Rhone a Sete provides effort-less cruising between Beaucaire and Sete, then into the Great Lake. Chartering a yacht here is an

unhurried affair, where crews spend a few hours sunbathing on a nearby Mediterranean beach, or visiting one of the bustling fishing ports to taste the local delicacies. The Camargue is a triangular delta in the south of France covering 140,000 hectares. It’s made up of wetlands, pastures, dunes and salt marshes ,which are a major centre for salt production, producing up to 15,000 tons a day at harvest-time. The area provides a home for a unique collection of flora, including Tamarisk and Narcissi. The fauna includes egrets and ibises so it is no won-der it is the most important wetlands site in the Mediterranean as such and attracts over one mil-lion visitors a year. Many come to see the famous white horses and the pink flamingos, which have become the symbol of the area which, in 1970, was granted National Park status. People visit the Reserve between April and November to enjoy the beach, go bird watching or attend some of the cul-tural events specific to the area, such as the gypsy pilgrimage. Tourists can rent horses, go on ‘safari’ in a four-wheel drive vehicle, and use the beaches at Arles, Beauduc and Les Saintes or; like us, take a boat trip through the area at a leisurely pace. Traveling the canals of the south of France by yacht is a cross between caravanning and walking in the countryside. That said, I do not think I have enjoyed my days afloat recently quite as much as I did when motoring the canals of the Camargue aboard a 42 foot Magnifique chartered through Connoisseur Afloat. We boarded our craft at the company’s base in Beaucaire not so very far from Nimes. Well-informed and happy-to-please shore-based crews quickly and efficiently went through the ropes and asked if I had any yacht handling experience. Once I understood that there was only one propeller, grasped the fact that there was no need for a compass, or a speed log, I was well away, and after a concerted effort by my crew to empty the shelves of the nearby supermarket, we set off on what was our very first canal experience. The boat is surprisingly well equipped with air conditioning, two steering positions, and a useful bow thruster and my only significant observation would be that it would have been nice to have a small generator or an inverter for charging the batteries of computers and cameras for those stu-pid enough to work rather than enjoy the cruising experience. Our trip was a one-way journey from Beaucaire to Marseillan, sailing along; first the Canal du Rhône à Sète that meanders through the Camargue then, across the Etang de Thau a large shallow salt lake, before entering the Canal du Midi the historic 17th century waterway which links the Atlantic with the Mediterranean. Each of these areas would offer spectacularly different scenery and experiences, so we planned meticu-lously beforehand to enjoy them all to the full during trip.

Noily Prat The bottles are of the Vermouth called Noily Prat which is made in the town of Marseillan.


SOUTHERN FRANCE

Our boat was clean and both comfortable and well maintained. How crowded she would be if she carried her full complement of ten, I dread to think, but several passing yachts clearly proved us wrong and I can only suggest that their crews ate ashore a good deal and showered in facilities provided at mari-nas. Our reduced complement found the yacht very comfortable and my feeling is that a crew of between four and eight on board is, perhaps, the ideal number. Her spacious sun deck is great for eating al fresco and she comes with all the equipment you might need including ample refrigeration space. Our first stop was Saint Gilles, a town known as the gateway to the Camargue, famous for its bulls and white horses. The town is named after a nobleman that became a hermit and took refuge here in the 8th century. His exemplary life has since inspired generations of Catholics who built an abbey here in the 12th century in his honor. The Lonely Planet Guide suggests, rather quaintly, that shortly after that the towns candle went out, and perhaps they are right! Even so, there are snatches of culture dating back to Roman times and a house where Pope Clement IV is said to have been born. Moving on we passed through low wetlands the banks of our canal stacked high with cut phragmite reeds or sagno drying in the sunshine as they wait their turn to become thatched roofs of the future. Less than twenty local men, Sagneurs, now retain the hereditary right to harvest these reeds and do so traditionally, cutting and turn-ing them all by hand. Swallows and egrets dive bomb the canal; as we motor on turtles cling to waterside tree roots, basking in the sunshine, and we were even lucky enough to spot small water

rats called Coipu. Marshes have been turned into rice paddy fields in a traditional checkerboard pattern. Fields on slightly more solid ground are the grazing homes to the Camargue bulls, whose narrow foreheads and dark grey horns sit above alert eyes that watch as canal boats cruise on by. Cowboy like horsemen, sitting on special saddles astride white stallions, charge about through shal-low water as they round them up and move them to pastures new. In the evenings, the sky can turn almost pink, as flocks of pretty flamingos seek out their roosts for their night-time resting. We arrived in Aigues-Mortes, a medieval walled Crusader town whose ramparts today are as robust as ever they were. The town sits stranded nearly four miles from the sea. It was built by Louis IX as a port and remains a symbol of human obstinacy because it was clearly silted up before it was ever completed and, despite it being the salt capital of the Camargue, became a virtual backwater almost as soon as it was completed. It is perhaps because of this that the town is so perfectly intact today. Henry James writ-ing 100 years ago said the town was hardly alive but was neatly embalmed. I doubt he would say that today as 130,000 tourists flock there each year. They come to do as we did, walk the near mile of solid stone ramparts that surround the town that is domi-nated by the Tour Constance, which was the original ports lighthouse and subsequently served as a pris-on, which is not surprising given that its walls are up to 20 feet thick. That evening we ate under the stars, taking dinner at one of the many restaurants that fill the town square. Next morning, Sunday, it was market day and we took full advantage of the edible goodies on sale, walking back to the boat with our newly purchased baskets bursting at the seams. The scenery changed again and the canal passed through stonewall banks with water either side of the walls. It was here that the waterway runs parallel with the sea and at one point, close to the Abbey de Maguelonne we stopped for lunch, moor-ing alongside the towpath and taking our bicycles to the beach and abbey. That evening with what can only be described by the skipper as immacu-late planning and by his crew as a sheer fluke, we arrived in Frontignan just as the bridge made the last of its three daily openings, and passed into the town made famous by producing 2 million bottles of Muscat, the sweet wine, every year. Shortly after leaving town the next day we left the Canal du Rhône à Sète and entered the Etang. This shallow sea lake is heavily farmed by oystermen, producing tons of the shelled aph-rodisiac in numbers to equal the production of northern France. We visited the ports of Mèze and Marseillan, choosing to spend the night in the latter. It is here that Noilly Prat, the vermouth, is made and the factory offers a fascinating tour of inspection where guides explain the complex, time-consuming process behind the mixing and blending that goes on to produce the quintessen-

Type: .............................Magnifique 8+2LOA: ....................................14.5 MetresBeam: ................................. 4.10 MetresDraught: ....................................1 MetreHeight above water: ...........2.2 MetresBuilders: ................ Porter & Haylett Ltd

Wroxham EnglandEngine: ............................... 60 hp Nanni

(marinised Mercedes Block)Bowthruster: ...... 8 hp electric poweredFuel Capacity: ....................... 350 LitresFuel Consumption: ...2.5 litres per hourFresh water capacity: ..........1000 litresBerths: ..8 fixed 2 converted from sofasSpeed: ........................................8 knotsSteering positions: ..............................2Air conditioning: ...... Forward and after

sleeping cabinsHeating: ................ Webasto throughout

General Specifications

Mèze cafes, shops and restaurants inside the pictur-esque harbor.


Travel Connoisseur bases are conviently located within a reasonable distance from an airport. Nimes Montepellier and Perpignan are all served by budget airlines operating out of the UK. Marseilles is served by Air France and British Airways. There are smaller airports at Béziers and Carcassonne.

Charter CostsOur trip took place in May when the cost of this boat was priced at €2365 for a week. It rises to €3700 per week at the height of the season. The only boat based extras is the cost of the fuel and this is charged at €6 per hour of engine time used and deducted from the fuel deposit paid at time of taking the boat. In ten days we clocked up 42 hours of use. A one way supplement of €100 is charged and both base car parking and hire of bicycles must be allowed for if required. Marinas charge very little, seldom more than €25 per night and generally include water and electricity, but truthfully many ports are free as is the towpath. Why pay if you do not need to?

Charts, Pilots & GuidesThere is a guidebook on board each boat, which truthfully is a little out of date, still quoting, for example, marina fees in Francs long after the euro became the currency of France. We used the much lauded multi lingual Midi Camargue Waterway Guide published in France by Éditions du Breil available on the internet, in better nautical bookshops or direct from Connosisseur at time of book-ing. My advice is to buy it as early it is a perfect planning tool and invaluable if you want to get the most out of the holiday trip.

PaperworkVery little is needed and what there can will be handled by the base staff who know all the ropes and hand it all over at the time of the boat briefing. If using credit cards in France it is sometimes useful to carry a photo ID.

WeatherIt was very pleasant in early May and whilst we confess we did not utilise the air conditioning we own up to firing up the webasto central heating on a couple of damp evenings. With the heat of the summer time will come crowds, more boats and longer passage times!www.connoisseurafloat.com

More Information

tial aperitif. We feasted on local oysters that night and I have an observation to make to would-be oyster openers: potato peelers are poor substi-tutes for a proper oyster knife! We also enjoyed La Tielle, or squid pie, a local specialty made with bread dough filled with baby octopus in a spicy tomato sauce, which was quite delicious. It did not take very long the next day for us to cross the final stretch of lake and enter the Canal du Midi or Riquets Ditch, as the less reverend tend to call it. Our trip would take us along the canal through the vineyards of Langudoc towards Homps, but that is another story for another issue. For our crew, the highpoints of the trip includ-ed our visit to Aigues-Mortes, the historic sights, and the Sunday open market. The wildlife of the Camargue was outstanding with the horses, cattle, and pretty flamingos. Because we are foodies, we adored the markets selling local produce and particularly enjoyed our tour of the Noilly Pratt factory in Marseillan. Will we be back? Most cer-tainly, I can think of no better way of combining the love of boating with the sheer joy of walking in the countryside and eating and drinking its pro-duce. It is the perfect family holiday and I would recommend it and Connoisseur, the company that runs the boats so well, to everyone. YVC

About the Writer and PhotographerFrances & Michael Howorth have been travelling

together for the last 25 years, initially working aboard

cruise liners and then as crew aboard luxury private

and charter yachts. Latterly their trips have been con-

fined to joint photojournalistic assignments aboard

ships and yachts. Their voyages of discovery have

taken them to Africa, North and South America, the

Caribbean, the Mediterranean, India, and a plethora of

islands in between with such diversity as to include

Tristan de Cunha, St Helena, and the Maldive Islands.

[email protected]

Camargue, famous for its bulls and white horses

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YACHT PROFILE

Aboard for an unforgettable, ultra-chic charter experience

Originally built in 2003 by Trinity Yachts and named Seahawk, the vessel was refit-ted in 2005 and christened My Iris. The

original designer was Claudette Bonville while Marc Thee oversaw the refit. Many of the original features were retained, and indeed, both design-ers continue giving input for new interior touches. Both act in fulfillment of the owner’s exquisite good taste.

My Iris is 150-feet long with a 28-foot beam and an 8-foot draft. Her hull and superstructure are aluminum, while her engines, generators, sta-bilizers and other seagoing essentials are of the very finest. Charter guests will not want for diver-sionary playthings; My Iris stores a 19-foot Nautica tender, two kayaks, complete professional-level scuba gear for four, water skis, snorkel gear, fish-ing gear, and the enticing list goes on. The most seductive feature of My Iris, though, is without question her soothing if jaw-dropping interior design. Many yacht interiors have a dis-tinctly masculine or feminine feel, but that of My Iris avoids those leanings to make all who enter comfortable. As a matter of fact, comfort of every sort was so important to the owner that she man-dated a look of “barefoot elegance,” the creation of glamorous spaces conducive to stylish informality. Because the owner wanted to be able to hold fes-

tive parties spread over various areas, an emphasis was placed on achieving flow from space to space. Marc Thee says: “Soft but dramatic backgrounds were our goal. We accomplished this by choosing clean classic lines, soft blues and peachy neutrals as the common colorations.” Cameron Zentz of Marc-Michaels Interior Design, Inc. affirms that the owner was consci-entiously involved in the refit process. Beyond wanting to achieve “barefoot elegance,” she want-ed and procured the finest custom furnishings and fabrics. The owner also envisioned a gentle color palette marked by watery blues, creams, and peaches to convey a spirit of relaxation. Visual unity was assured throughout My Iris by the fre-quent repetition of subtle tonal nuances. In the main salon one finds the same sumptu-ous mahogany wood used throughout the yacht. Champagne-toned silk draperies by Schumacher with a “Fascination Seaside” accent by Rodolph grace the windows. The bar has quilted-leath-er bar stools, while the custom-made sectional is magnificently complemented by a custom-made coffee table in macassar ebony with walnut accents. On the other side of the coffee table from the sectional are two custom-made, extra-large swivel bucket chairs in a gray paisley gaufrage leather. The lovely J. Robbins Scott pillows on the

Super Yacht My IrisOvid, Homer, and other poets of great and

ancient repute agree that the goddess Iris

bore messages from celestial powers and

delivered them to mortals. They say that in

transit between heaven and earth, she left

behind her footprint, a rainbow. The super-

yacht My Iris is fittingly named, as she pro-

vides a beauteous bridge from the quotidian

to the divine.

WRITTEN BY SCOTT ROSE

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Aboard for an unforgettable, ultra-chic charter experience

sectional are done in silk tapis with an ice-blue ribbon fringe. George Schipper is the master chef aboard My Iris. I asked him about the outfitting of the gal-ley and he told me that it is supplied with every manner of equipment: a full double oven, a sala-mander, a full grill, a stove with six burners and a flat top as well as many first-class food processors, mixers, and molds. Yet he also made a statement that will seem particularly auspicious to all who relish gourmand preparations. “The most impor-tant tool in any kitchen is the chef’s heart. When the chef has his heart in his work, as I do in mine, that passion is evident in the fine results served from his kitchen.” Chef Schipper certainly knows how to make a diner’s mouth water. Asked to name two of his most elegant specialties, he says: “An appetizer of a basil-infused corn broth over a Pacific white prawn gallette served with crispy shallot and fresh baby corn. And a main platter consisting of a spinach tian in a ginger-soy mirin sauce, and grilled portabella mushrooms and grilled yellow heirloom tomatoes around a coriander-crusted loin of lamb.” He adds with pride that he does not often repeat himself. “I start off with an outline of what I’m aiming for and as the day progresses, the dish evolves.” Chef Schipper feels that besides fine ingredients and a strong conception, the success of a preparation depends on timing and coordination. His scrumptious cuisine may be served in any of My Iris’s gracious dining areas. The main dining salon boasts a custom, hand-cut mar-ble mosaic floor border by New World Ceramic, Mosaic and Stone of Orlando. The central carpet-ing is inlaid to the mosaic. A fine wood dining table is surrounded by Italian scroll-back chairs, which the present owner had reupholstered in a blue-topaz-gold fabric known as “Florian Silk.” The same Schumacher/Rodolph window-dress-ings employed in the main salon adorn the dining salon. Aft of the main salon, meanwhile, is the aft deck dining area, exceedingly consistent with the concept of “barefoot elegance.” Teak chairs with a creamy waffle fabric and a custom banquette provide plush seating while the color scheme of Wedgwood blues and light champagne tones soothes the eye. Off the sky lounge is the upper aft deck dining area, where rattan chairs in a won-derful rich brown are upholstered in a beautiful cream chenille with a taupe tape border. Chef Schipper reports that in the past, he has had flown into St. Lucia in the Caribbean delica-cies such as fresh frogs legs and giant guey duc clams. Asked what he would prepare if requested to include cognac as an ingredient in a dish, he said: “Ah ha! I love this question. I would make a foie gras, apple and white-truffle terrine with baby frissé, marinating and poaching the terrine in Louis XIII Grand Champagne Cognac and using the run-off to make a cognac-caper vinaigrette.”

One could cry from reading the description with-out being presented with the dish. Each of My Iris’s five staterooms has an en suite bath. The Master Stateroom is favorable to deep, restful sleep. The color palette is a calm-ing blend of praline, cream, platinum, and tones from the champagne family. The bed is dressed in silk and printed velvets. Most of the fabrics are from the acclaimed designer Nancy Corzine; they include the coverlet, which is of Ms. Corzine’s “Empire Medallion” fabric. Also present in the Master Stateroom is a gorgeous, highly-stylized desk made of a lacquered, tiger’s eye maple. The appreciative eye will notice that My Iris sports many a sublime throw pillow. The owner is atten-tive to the design scheme down to the smallest detail; as happens, Marc Thee personally designed many of the remarkable pillows seen throughout the yacht. Everywhere aboard are opulent details worthy of the HGTV show Extreme Yachts. My Iris was in truth recently shown on that program. There is a custom-made, slant-legged game table with 24-karat gold inlay and 24-karat gold capped feet. The fly bridge Jacuzzi is surrounded by the most inviting, custom-made sunpads, while the teak floor of the fly bridge is topped by teak chaises in a “Spangle Sapphire” chenille with white borders, a

My Iris 150-feet long with a 28-foot beam and an 8-foot draft. Her hull and superstructure are aluminum, while her engines, generators, stabilizers and other seagoing essentials are of the very finest.

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YACHT PROFILE

broad, light bright blue center stripe and graceful white skirts. Gillian Gething, RSA is the head stewardess for My Iris. She informs that there are various Jay Strongwater and Lalique pieces featured on board, and that with entertainment being a high priority, she selects daily from an array of table linens and accessories, including many eye-catching items from Neiman Marcus’s Kim Seybert Collection. Tableware offerings include the elegance personi-fied that are Christofle and Lennox. “For myself,” says Gillian, “working onboard My Iris has been a wonderful experience through which I have learned a tremendous amount, and both been to amazing places and met delightful people.” Gillian’s satisfaction in her work doubtless stems from Captain Mike O’Neill’s thoughtful and results-getting management style. Asked to describe it, he says: “I believe that I am only as successful as the people I surround myself with. Thus I make every effort when hiring crew to find the best and most professional folks available, and then look after them as best I can to keep them happy. Of equal importance, I try to give each crewmember as much latitude as possible, allow-ing each person to really show off their talents and take pride in their work. I believe that in this way, charter guests are guaranteed a fantastic, profes-sional, yet personal experience aboard My Iris.” Captain O’Neill fairly beams when describ-ing the entertainment options available aboard My Iris. “Electronics upgrades have been com-pleted in the last six months in order to keep My Iris state-of-the-art. The DVD server and internet service are second to none. Our “Kaleidescape” central DVD server is accessible from all guest cabins and public areas. This makes it possible for a guest to make a selection from an on-demand library of more than 600 movies and 400 CDs by means of a Crestron touch screen remote and enjoy the selected item virtually anywhere aboard. It’s a neat trick that people can watch the same movie from different locations inde-

pendently. Additionally, I-Pod receptacles were recently added at every location so guests can plug in their personal devices and listen to their own music. Each server location has also been equipped with independent satellite TV receivers. As regards internet service, we have added a VSAT satellite system allowing all guests unlimited high speed internet access from their laptops via our onboard Wi-Fi system. Even when we are cruising far off-shore, everybody enjoys continuous inter-net access.” The My Iris pilothouse is opulently appointed and set up for guests to enjoy this key element of the yachting experience. Behind a special-purpose coffee table, gaufrage leather upholsters a comfy banquette placed just far enough away from the controls to offer a prime viewing of them. Captain O’Neill remarks: “This is a great place for guests to sit, have a cup of coffee or a snack and watch the world go by from the crew’s vantage point.” Iris has been a Greek goddess and an opera by Pietro Mascagni while Irises have been depicted in paintings by Vincent Van Gogh. The super-yacht My Iris continues the tradition of applying the appella-tion to a thing of great beauty. It is no exaggeration to call My Iris one of the finest flowerings in the noble world of yacht building and design. YVC

My Iris Information courtesy of Fraser Yachtswww.fraseryachts.com

About the Writer Scott Rose attended Harvard University at Master’s level.

He writes frequently on luxury markets and travel. His

work has appeared in such prestigious venues as Bon

Appetit and Power magazines. [email protected]

“Everywhere aboard are opulent details worthy of the HGTV show ‘Extreme Yachts’ My Iris was in truth recently shown on that program”

Information



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LUXURY GOODS

Our test took us through winding country roads as well as city streets; each was a sub-lime pleasure. The Carrera hugs the road

with an iron grip, and its growl practically shakes the leaves from the trees. Two engine variations are now available: our tester and the Carrera 4S with its 355 hp power plant. An optional Sport Chrono Plus package rolls out for ’06. A “Lapis Blue” metal-lic finish is an $825 option; also available are wheel caps with color crest ($185), Bi-Xenon headlamp package ($1090), cocoa floor mats ($115), heated front seats ($480) self-dimming mirrors ($385) and a host of other goodies. Safety-wise, dual front airbags and a Porsche Stability Management (PSM) system, optimized for shorter stopping distances and greater control in slippery conditions, are stan-dard, as are anti-lock brakes and an integrated third brake light in the rear. Gripes are few. The trunk’s small, making packing for long trips challenging unless you’re

going solo. Also, the CD player’s digital readout moves at a glacier’s pace as you scroll forward or backward to find your favorite songs. Overall, though, this is a more-than-worthy sports car that’ll put a smile on your face every time you rev it.

Interior: An electric sliding roof, one-touch power windows and a color PC display with nav system capability plants the Carrera squarely in the 21st century; flawless clutch/accelera-tor combo is all classic Porsche. It’s all upscale leather and thus a feast for your eyes, nose and posterior, though a tight fit for the big and tall.

Exterior: Smoothly merged egg-shaped flanks and curvy yet hunky quarter panels are signa-ture, flashy Porsche. Engine’s in the rear and the trunk’s up front, opening with a push of the but-ton on your fob. YVC

2006 Porsche Carrera4 Coupe Hop behind the wheel, turn the key, rev the engine, throw it into first and you’re im-

mediately reminded of why Porsche remains the ultimate jewel in the crown of sports car

lovers. You don’t drive the Carrera so much as wear it like a finely tailored suit. The crest

on the steering wheel seems to smile up at you and whisper “faster, faster, faster”. And

faster you go as you cruise, turn, downshift, accelerate and watch the needle inch further

to the right.

REVIEW BY JOSH MAX

Price: .................$77,100 ($82,365 as tested) Horsepower/torque: .......... 325 hp/273 lb-ft0-60: ........................................... 4.6 seconds Top speed: ...................................... 179 MPHGas: ................................18 city, 26 highwayMiles driven: ............................................290

2006 Porsche Carrera 4 Coupe Specs


Spirit ofThe Highlands

“My desire is always to be here” sang Sir Paul McCartney in his tribute to the Mull of

Kintyre, and the Western Highlands have inspired the same loyalty in many who have come

to know and love this secluded coast. The Scottish landscape is a theatre where the hills

themselves appear to move in the shifting light, one minute swathed in cloud, the next a

misty veil of sunlight, and later against a piercing blue sky the brilliant sunshine bouncing

off fresh snow on the hilltops.

Cruising the lochs of Western Scotland

NORTHERN EUROPE

Captain Klaüs Muller Inverary Castle The Locals


WRITTEN AND PHOTGRAPHED BY

MICHELLE BLORE AND ALAN OLIVER

One of the first things to strike you here is the lack of clut-ter; this is scenery empty of the flotsam and jetsam of modern civilization. Instead it’s full of natural wonders, creating an

impressionist canvas that evolves with the seasons as well as the weather. In autumn, robes of purple heather drape the hillsides, crowned with golden bracken and birch. Winter russets, ochres and deep hookers greens are dusted with icing sugar snow before the emerald grass of spring appears, splashed with bright daffodils, wild primroses and carpets of bluebells. Then in early summer dark-ness hardly falls, the distant glow of the midnight sun lights the horizon and gleams on the white sand beaches. In his book Ring of Bright Water author Gavin Maxwell describes perfectly the visitor’s dilemma on getting his first view across the coast: “The landscape and seascape that lay spread before me was of such beauty that I had no room for it all at once...” Places so beautiful rarely remain that way, but the Western Highlands have escaped because they are so difficult to reach. No roads existed before the 18th century and the highlanders struggled for survival on land of such poor agricultural value. Their solution was to raid the lowland farms before disappearing back into the hills, where they remained out of reach of the law. Such inac-cessibility rendered them beyond the grasp of the British government, until the first roads were built by the army in order to gain control. Before then, the only successful conquerors were the Vikings, who arrived by sea in their longships and were able to penetrate deep into the hills by rowing up the long fingers of the lochs. Even today, this is a frustrating place to visit in a vehicle because one is faced with long road journeys to cover relatively small distances as the crow flies; it’s still better conquered from the sea. We were therefore thrilled to receive an invitation from the owners of a rather characterful little ship called Fyne Spirit, which promises travelers the opportunity to do just that. On a bright and brac-ing spring day we were greeted at Glasgow airport by Captain Klaüs Muller and Ship’s Purser Nadine Ruts. Klaus and Nadine have been in charge of Fyne Spirit’s conversion from a British Navy vessel and are responsible for her forthcoming launch at the start of the 2006 summer season. Chosen because she is specifically suited to cruising the Scottish lochs, Fyne Spirit’s sturdy build and size (110ft) give her access into the far reaches of the lochs and many deserted anchorages – and I really do mean deserted, rather than shared with a bunch of other hopefuls! Modifications have been made to allow for a spacious saloon with large windows to either side, enabling guests to enjoy the majestic panoramas in all weather conditions. And I’m quite serious when I say that Scotland looks even more dramatic in the rain than it does in the sunshine. A modern motor yacht would

be at odds in this environment – not only in appearance but in sheer practicality. Fyne Spirit is at home in her surroundings, dependable and comfortable she embodies the traditional values of the Scots. There’s no need to rush about here; sit back and enjoy the ever-changing view, savor the sense of isolation, absorb the atmosphere of the Highlands. Previously Captain of the well-known luxury cruising yacht Star Clipper, Klaus has lived in Scotland for over fifteen years. Although he is German by origin, you’ll rarely meet a more natu-ralized Scot – he’s the first German I’ve ever heard regularly use the word “Aye” (‘yes’ in Scottish dialect). He even plays the bagpipes! Klaus has made his own home in Fyne Spirit’s home port of Inverary and is a well-known local ‘celebrity’, having become an integral part of the local com-munity. Wherever Klaus accompanied us, people stopped to greet him and enquire about when Fyne Spirit would be arriving from the shipyard in Glasgow, where she is in the final stages of her transformation. The result is that Fyne Spirit is also a ‘local’, and thus inspires a special enthu-siasm amongst the inhabitants that guests will sense immediately. You can expect a hearty wel-come which includes being piped aboard by the local schoolchildren, who are accomplished pip-ers despite the fact that their instruments rather dwarf them in scale. Inverary is situated at the head of Loch Fyne in the county of Argyll. An orderly gathering of whitewashed Georgian houses, it sits a short but respectful distance from the imposing seat of the famous Campbell Clan, Inverary Castle. The Campbells arrived in Argyll in the 13th century and played a leading role in Scottish history. Constantly feuding with the Macdonalds, they supported the British army against the Jacobite rebellion in the 18th century, a loyalty that was rewarded with Dukedom. The 8th Duke married Queen Victoria’s daughter, Princess Louise and, as Master of the Royal Household, the present Duke will always be seen at the Queen’s side when she attends an official function in Scotland. Klaus guided us around the castle personally, as he has an expert knowledge of local history. He was quick to point out that the vast range of fearsome armory on display is not the cache of an enthusiastic collector. It was in fact kept at the castle in readiness for war, the weapons being handed out for use by the Clansmen as and when required for battle. Rows of vicious lances line the walls of the atrium, many with their original tas-sels still attached just below the blade. Their grue-some, if practical, task was to staunch the blood of the victims in order to prevent it running down the wooden handle of the lance and making it too slippery to hold - another reason there weren’t too many visitors in the past! The flintlocks also on display were used at the battle of Culloden, from which the defeated Bonnie Prince Charlie fled in 1746, heralding final victory for the Hanoverian

Fyne Spirit At home in her surroundings, dependable and comfort-able she embodies the traditional values of the Scots

Inverary An orderly gathering of whitewashed Georgian houses, it sits a short but respectful distance from the imposing seat of the famous Campbell Clan, Inverary Castle.


Information

Fyne Spirit charters for up to 12 guests at $35,000.00 per week, or you may book on a

per cabin basis from $2,800.00 per person, per week. Contact: Dream Sailing, +33 664 037020

[email protected] www.dreamsailing.com

NORTHERN EUROPE

King George III over the Jacobites, and resulting in the British monarchy of today. Thankfully, a Scottish welcome now has a different meaning. The history may have been bloody and the weather unpredictable, but this is more than made up for by the warmth of the Scottish people. Indeed, many of the things that make Scotland so enjoyable exist because of the climate: a blazing hearth, hearty food and, of course, Scotch whisky. It is impossible to overestimate the impor-tance of whisky to this part of the world, both economically and culturally. There were once as many as thirty-four whisky distilleries just in Campbeltown on the Kintyre Peninsula alone, as well as many more sprinkled around the coast and islands such as Islay, Jura and Skye. The local whisky store in Inverary stocks several hundred single malts, making it a good place to start a voy-age of discovery in more ways than one. One of the oldest licensed distilleries in Scotland is at Oban, where they’ve been making whisky for over 200 years. The ‘wash’ (a type of weak beer made from malted barley) is distilled twice to give the malt its unique character and taste, and the two unusually small stills reflect the cramped nature of the site. This working distillery is still based in its original building in the heart of the town, just opposite the quayside, making it easy to stow away a few bottles as a souvenir. Leaving Oban to head west around Mull and then north between the islands of Iona and Tiree you may well be rewarded with a sighting of minke whales, and even killer whales put in an occa-sional appearance. Unlike many places that claim whale watching as an activity, here there’s a very strong chance you’ll actually see some (about an 80% likelihood). Be sure to take your binoculars as seals, otters, porpoises and dolphins are also regulars along the coast and the area is incredibly rich in bird life, including razorbills, terns and wild geese. For a more sporting diversion, there’s that other great Scottish invention: golf. Fyne Spirit’s

special golf itineraries will allow guests to play on a selection of the finest courses within easy reach of ports and anchorages, such as the top ranking Machrihanish course on the Kintyre Peninsula. A friendly little ship like Fyne Spirit is definitely the way to experience the Western Highlands of Scotland. Life here clings to the coastline because the sea has always represented the best, and until relatively recently the only, means of access. Castles were constructed on the loch shores near to beaches in order to keep their boats handy, distilleries needed to ship their products to mar-ket and villages depended upon the fishing for their livelihood. Taking to the water means you can avoid the usual necessity of long hours on the road, as well as the constant packing and unpack-ing that are the bane of the intrepid sightseer. Golfing equipment can be safely stowed out of the way so you’ll soon forget the burden it normally represents when traveling. And with no need to drive anywhere, you can safely make the most of all those whisky tastings with their generous Scottish measures! However, having the freedom to cruise the lochs and amongst the islands is worth so much more than mere practicalities. The hills and glens are at their most spectacular when viewed from the water; it’s a privileged perspective shared with generations of local fishermen and sailors, but rarely glimpsed by the steady procession of pass-ing tourists. You’ll feel so much more a part of this ancient and mystical land when you approach the Mull of Kintyre as the Vikings did, with the mist rolling in from the sea. YVC

About the WritersMichelle Blore and Alan Oliver both quit successful

careers in London to move to the French Riviera. They

now run Dream Sailing (www.dreamsailing.com) a

charter brokerage specializing in luxury crewed yachts,

including their own sailing yacht, DreamCatcher of

London. [email protected]

“ Taking a Yacht Charter means you can avoid the usual necessity of long hours on the road, as well as the constant packing and unpacking”

Whisky Store


LUXURY GOODS

Our test took us through upstate New York, through twisty forested roads and down through urban areas after a solid day of

riding. Usually a bike does well either with city riding or country cruising, but the Street Rod handled both like a 618 pound ballerina, there was no jerking when accelerating as in some older Harley models, and the clutch is butter-smooth. The futuristic, gleaming instrument cluster fea-tures a two-segment speed and RPM display, and the vented grill design on the new Brembo brakes follows through on the drive train cover and fuel tank In short, she’s a beaut. The Street Rod is the third model in Harley’s VRSC family, which includes the popular V-Rod introduced in 2001. The bikes are similar looks-wise, though the Street Rod is notably taller than

the V-Rod and has better ground clearance, so if you’re on the short side, get used to saddling up with some effort. The good news is the taller dimensions meant Harley had more room for a bigger, 5-gallon gas tank, which means less fre-quent stops. The tank’s under the seat, which conveniently flips up and locks back in snugly without a key. A gauge saves you from trying to remember the last time you visited the pump. (No joke – some manufacturers don’t supply this.) The engine roar is loud but not window-rat-tling; aftermarket accessories can be added if you want to announce your arrival wherever you go. As with every Harley, the Street Rod works both as a machine and a work of art to be admired. It’s all gleaming pipes, carved corners, and a blast to drive. YVC

2006 Harley-Davidson

VRSCR Street Rod The Harley Davidson Street Rod is a sturdy, righteous motorcycle aimed at bike lovers eye-

balling those submarine-sized cruisers in the window of their local Harley shop, but who don’t

feel like negotiating all that tonnage. It’s a cruiser to be sure, but smaller and sportier than

the usual hog, and you can corner, turn around, back up and dodge potholes as though riding

a Sportster. Also, unlike the teeth-chattering rides Harleys were previously known for, the

Street Rod provides a smooth-as-butter experience, with a snorting, guttural engine to match.

REVIEW BY JOSH MAX

Price: ..................................................$15,495Weight: ............................................. 618 lbs.Displacement: .................................... 1130ccHorsepower: ............................................120Torque: ..................... 80 ft. lbs. @ 7000 rpm Mileage: .........................47 highway, 37 cityMiles driven: ............................................140Color options: .......Vivid black, black cherry,

rich sunglo blue, yellow pearl, brandy wine sunglo, mirage orange

2006 Harley-Davidson VRSCR Specs


PACIFIC NORTHWEST

Live-aboard the dive boat

Nautilus Explorer

But we weren’t at Browning Pass. This was a spire of rock on Vancouver Island’s north-west coast, a spot dived by only a hand-

ful of people before, a spot still loaded with fish because it’s not exactly on anyone’s harvest path and still loaded with life because, frankly, hordes of divers haven’t scraped it off. The goal was to go completely around Vancouver Island on a live-aboard dive boat, something done only once before the previous fall by this same boat. Most dive boats stay on the Inside Passage side, the east coast of this Florida-size island where the diving is relatively easier. The important term here is ‘relatively.’ We are talking cold water diving with all the drysuit gear this requires, along with tricky currents, since it’s the rush of water that brings nutrients which support the world class life. There are divers who consider Vancouver Island’s east coast challenge enough. But the west coast has its own rewards and a few more challenges and this trip would give div-ers a chance for a direct comparison. Leaving from Steveston, just south of Vancouver, we crossed over to the island and scur-ried up the east side, stopping briefly for a dive at Texada’s cloud sponges. They hung off the wall in three-foot yellow clumps, each a ball of tubes,

each tube with its own critter a shrimp here, a crab there. But best of all were the juvenile quillback rockfish. All those little golden faces peering out of the tubes. That was at 100 feet. We came up to a ledge at 40 feet and saw a rainbow nudibranch with its crown of translucent waving tentacles. We felt lucky to have spotted it and then saw a second, a third, a fourth. They were all over the place, doz-ens upon dozens scattered among the pebbles. And this was only our first dive. From Texada, it was up to Browning Wall on the northeast corner of the island. Browning is the gold standard of northwest diving. On a dive named Al’s Baby we found broccoli stalks of plu-mose hanging all over the place a forest of branch-ing white, separated by groups of crimson and green anemones, barnacles, 20-armed sun stars, a huge king crab, a tiny Pacific octopus and so much more life, there literally wasn’t a spot on the wall to rest your finger. We climbed from the water to a classic north-west scene. An eagle soared overhead in a cloud-less sky and as we headed off, a school of Dall’s porpoise sliced through the water around our bow, leaving white streaks of foam in their wake. Since a cold front was coming through, boat owner/captain Mike Lever decided to stick around

Vancouver IslandThe amazing thing was the fish. They were

everywhere... huge schools of China rock-

fish looked like something from the tropics.

And the submerged walls were coated with

life... plumose, sponges, barnacles, clumps

of feather duster worms.

WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY

BILL HIRSCH & YVETTE CARDOZO

© PHOTOGRAPHER: DAN BANNISTER


a bit longer on the more protected side of the island meaning more dives at Browning and, especially, Dillon Rock with its half dozen friendly wolf eels. Finally, we eased around the north end of the island and headed south. The northern tip of Vancouver Island is as wild as it comes. With its unbroken forests of cedar, its eagles, whales and porpoise, it could pass easily for the coast of Alaska. And the fact that we were doing this in a live-aboard dive boat was somewhat of a milestone. Diving in these part has come a long way from the days, hardly 10 years ago, when a live-aboard meant communal toilets and getting dressed on an open, unprotected deck. Divers here now have many of the amenities folks have had for years in warm water destina-tions: terry robes, someone making up the cabin, cups of hot chocolate and cinnamon buns handed out as you arrive back from the dive, divemaster guides if you wish. Plus all sorts of clinics – photo workshops run by top underwater photogs, fish ID courses run by experts from the Vancouver Aquarium, trips that also focus on non-dive activities (kayaking, hiking, visits to Native villages). And, too, diving now means more than just the expected favorites – Copper Cliffs by Quadra, Browning Wall by Port Hardy, Dillon Rock. Trips now take in the Queen Charlotte Islands, Alaska and, of course, the cir-cumnavigation of Vancouver Island. What allows this is a boat big and fast enough to cover the distance and house its divers in com-fort. Mike’s latest boat, the Nautilus Explorer, is 116 feet with beds for 24 divers. The boat cruises at 10 knots and, if pushed, can do nearly 13. On our round-island trip, we covered 600 miles. And, along the way, we got an intensive photo course with Berkley White, who now believes digi-tal is the only way to go. So there I was with my very non-digital Nikonos. Geez, my equipment was older than half the crew. But Berkley has a point about digital. People with pocket cameras and not a lot of photo experi-ence were getting the kinds of shots a National Geographic pro would have died for 10 years ago. My roomate, Anita Floyd, a construction man-ager from Oregon, snagged a close up of a bar-nacle and its feeding appendages that was a pastel work of art. My dive buddy, Elaine Field of Seattle, got a small fish on a sponge that was flawlessly posed and lit. There were perfect quillbacks in cloud sponge tubes and even more perfect wolf eels. Yes, digital tends to blow out highlights. But the ability to correct mistakes on the spot and get tack-on focus with ridiculously wide depths of field is nothing short of amazing. It was a good group. Northwest divers tend to be that way. The jerks are quickly weeded out by

conditions that require dedication to the sport. Hey, of 21 divers aboard, only six of us (including me) were on lowly air. Six were using rebreathers. The rest were on nitrox or trimix. Most were dive-masters and one guy runs his own charters. Dedicated, definitely. We hit the village of Tahsis (population 400) and a bunch went to dive mud, hoping for six gill sharks. The rest of us drained the town of its entire stock of margaritas, to the last drop. The next day, we dove the town dock, again hoping for six gills. No sharks but the dock was a party in itself. For decades, boats have dumped their trash here. A white man’s midden, one guy quipped. We found a rifle encrusted with sponge life. Starfish climbed the pilings. And Elaine found the tiniest octopus. “Just his eyes peeking out of his hole. You could tell he was curious but you could also almost hear him think, ‘What is that creature looming over me? Is it safe? Will it eat me?’” The west coast is Vancouver Island’s wild side. This is where North America’s storms come ashore. One of the world’s largest recorded waves, 98 feet, happened here. What’s considered hurri-cane winds and scurry-for-cover in the Caribbean is just normal winter weather here. And, so, the diving is quite different. “Storms scour the outsides of islands, so you have to look for life in protected niches and on the backsides of pinnacles,” Mike said. The life is not as thick and it has to be hardier, sturdy anemones, abalones and flat metridiums rather than delicate sponges and broccoli stalk plumose. You need to think about what you’re doing, Mike said in his briefing. Current and surge can combine for a rock and roll ride. The trick is to let the surge push you, hold onto something while it’s trying to suck you backwards, then let it push you forward again. And when you come up, Mike warned, stay away from the rocks. The surge can easily carry you 30 feet up or down. We were diving places that had been dived only once or maybe not at all. On the northern end of the island, it was all virgin.

116ft Nautilus Explorer

More than just diving Trips can also focus on non dive activities such as kayaking, hiking, visits to native villages.


PACIFIC NORTHWEST

We named a few. My contribution, “Bashing Rocks,” was, sadly, voted down. Besides the killer surge, it had great macro. But the best of all was Hot Springs Cove Pinnacle. “Probably the best example of what a pinnacle dive should be,” Mike said. It’s a 300 foot-wide-rock sitting in 100 feet of water and is affected by both current and a bit of surge, meaning it gets both the hardier surge life and the hungrier soft invertebrate life. Down at 50 feet the rock was completely covered – metridiums, purple flowering tube worms, stars, tunnicates, barnacles, sponges, stalks of plumose, hundreds of fish. Better yet, staghorn bryozoans, colonial ani-mals that look like miniature tropical finger coral, each about two feet across and holding an entire universe of life. There were tiny brittle stars that were smaller than a fingernail, near-microscopic anemones, fish, shrimp and filter feeders along with multicolored worms that wrapped them-selves around the bryozoan fingers. The whole thing writhed with life. And then the crowning touch: three wolf eels stacked one atop another. And hardly a yard away, a huge octopus wedged into a long, deep crack. Between dives, we visited an ancient Native village with crumbling bits of overgrown, cen-tury-old totem poles. You go to a museum and everything is nicely lit with signs. But here, it’s bushwacking through brush to find half-buried poles. Any log you step across might be a bit of history. The birds are singing and it’s as if you’re the first person to be here in decades.

Another day, we visited Friendly Cove. There are dozens of similar coves along the coast but somehow, every early explorer managed to land here including Vancouver, Cook, and Spaniards Galiano and Valdez. Today, what’s left is a light-house, a church with Native carvings, a memo-rial cairn to Cook and a Native couple with their incredibly friendly (natch) cats. Then on to Hot Springs Cove. The boardwalk is 1.5 miles of planks, many of them carved with the name of a visiting ship. The path winds through a glorious old growth forest crowded with giant cedars, some ten feet across. At the end is a series of rock basins filled with steaming thermal water. We all squeezed into a small series of pools and watched ocean waves crash on nearby rocks while some chap with a guitar serenaded us with ‘70s ballads. Our last days, we rounded the southern end of the island, first stopping to visit Bamfield where we toured the Marine Sciences Centre, a research and study facility; they have their own ROV for deep water research and yes, it’s seriously cool. Then we came into Victoria where we docked at the foot of the Empress Hotel and dived the breakwater. It started really ho hum, lots of rocks, kelp, scallops, barnacles, jellies. Then these giant kelp greenlings showed up. One bruiser had to be three feet long and he just sat there, posing for pictures. And, out of nowhere, a wolf eel nudged Elaine. This is a popular dive site and he obviously expected a handout. He swam into Elaine’s arms, sat for 10 minutes of pictures (yes, one of the other divers kissed it) and finally settled into my arms before slithering off. Our last night, Berkley put together a show of our photos. The quality was breathtaking, the eye of a Red Irish Lord, so close, you could see the red flecks across his pupil, a moon jelly with kelp against a glowing sun, nudibranchs of every description and color. Each image was magazine quality, a perfect record of the changing underwa-ter life that rings Vancouver Island. YVC

About the Writer and PhotographerThis husband & wife writing/photography team specialize

in adventure travel. Yvette Cardozo worked eight years

for major metropolitan newspapers; has done freelance

travel and outdoors articles and photography since 1974.

Bill Hirsch worked at a variety of research and writing

jobs in government and private industry and has been

doing freelance articles since 1982.

[email protected]

InformationMore about Nautilus Explorer can be found by

contacting Blue Water Yacht Charters, Inc., +1 360 379 6581 or 800-732-7245

www.bluewateryachtcharters.com

Underwater Photography My roomate snagged a close up of a barnacle and its feeding appendages that was a pastel work of art. My dive buddy got a small fish on a sponge that was flaw-lessly posed and lit. There were perfect quillbacks in cloud sponge tubes and even more perfect wolf eels.


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