The Word Hanoi July 2011

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Chuyn du lch, m thcThe City in Your Hands

July 2011

CONCRETECUISINE

2 | The Word July 2011

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Features

July 2011Contents

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The editorial and design of THE WORDHA NOI is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

EditorialIan Paynton, Deputy Chief [email protected]

David Stout, Deputy Editor [email protected]

George Mills, Features [email protected]

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Dominic Blewett, Staff [email protected]

Hoa Le, Staff [email protected]

Paolo Maling, Art [email protected]

Nguyen Tan Loc, Layout [email protected]

Nguyen Thanh Ngoc, Interpreter and Translator

Phi Nguyen Thuy Linh, [email protected]

Nick Ross, Chief Editor and Deputy [email protected]

AdministrationDuong Vy Bao, [email protected]

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AdvertisingChau Giang, Sales & Office [email protected]

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Distribution & [email protected]

For advertising enquiries please call Giang on +84 93464 0668 or Ian on +84 121867 0853

Chuyn Du Lch & m Thc

Nh xut bn Lao ng175 Ging V, H NiT: + 84 4 3851 5380 / Fax: + 84 4 3851 5381Chi nhnh pha Nam85 Cch Mng Thng Tm, Q.1, TP. HCMT: + 84 8 3839 0970 / Fax: + 84 8 3925 7205Email: [email protected]

Chu trch nhim xut bnL Huy HaBin tp: H Phng LanSa bn in: Nick RossTrnh by: Dng Vy BoBa: Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

Thc hin lin kt xut bnChi Nhnh Cng Ty CP TM-DV-QC-Truyn Thng Dng Hunh54/26 Nguyn C Trinh, P.PNL, Q. 1, TP. HCMT: + 84 8 3838 6908 / Fax: + 84 8 3838 6971Email: [email protected]: www.wordhcmc.com

Vn Phng i Din H Ni:Ngo 93, Nha 2C, Ly Nam De, Hoan KiemT: +84 4 3747 5589 / Fax: +84 4 3747 5598Email: [email protected]: www.wordhanoi.com

In ti Cng Ty In Trn Ph71-73-75 Hai B Trng, Q.1, TP. HCMwww.tranphuprint.com

Giy XNKKHXB ca Cc XB s:161-2011/CXB/155-07/L ngy 02/03/2011Quyt nh xut bn s 189/QCN-LNh xut bn Lao ng cp ngy 20/06/2011In xong v np lu chiu nm 2011.

The Word would like to thank Kaitlin Rees, Linh Bach, Tania Willis, Debbie Clare, Ryan Eyers, Francis Roux and Noi Pictures, JC Smith, Thanh Nguyen, Victoria Boggiano, Truong @ Bookworm, Adam Bray and Quinn Ryan Mattingly, Hanoi Grapevine, Jamie Maxtone-Graham, DJ Kman and Link Hanoi, Bui Thu Thuy, The Metropole, Southgate and that girl we all used to know for their

contributions to this issue

The Word Ha Noi is a registered trademark. No content may be reproduced in any form without prior

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trivia Buff answersSee p120 for the original puzzle

1) Dudley 2) London 3) Nigel Mansell 4) Nobody, Riddick Bowe relinquished his title 5) Sputnik I 6) The Satanic Verses 7) Carbon Dioxide 8) Sand 9) The Weathergirls 10) Fokker 11) Woody Woodpecker 12) Rotterdam 13) North 14) Top Speed Was 220 15) Tokyo circa 34 million 16) True 17) JLS 18) Nigel Benn 19) Baseball 20) April (23rd) 21) Measles 22) MC Hammer 23) She Sang In 4 Languages 24) The Observer 25) Tangier, Morocco

regulars

Ho CHi minH City

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069

100

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118

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006 the talkIn case you needed to know

008 our man ColumnPho and fashion

020 oversceneThe Wheres Wally of nightlife

030 many FacesThe voice you never see

059 travel48 hours in Mui Ne

069 mystery DinerFinally, fish and chips

073 City guideThrow your guidebook away

116 the Final sayA lesson from sticky rice

118 Hanoi grapevine ColumnSomewhere over the Red River

100 stories from nha trangDeep into the beach

024 sight for sore eyes An altruist with vision

026 spectating Change Need a ticket? There are plenty left

031 Concrete CuisineCelebrating street food

056 the Problem with HousingRoom for improvement

066 the Changing Face of BeautyFrom black teeth to boob jobs

070 Che 10 waysMore than a mouthful


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Chuyn du lch, m thcThe City in Your Hands

July 2011

CONCRETECUISINE

tHe PreluDe

You are what You eat apparently. or to put the tired clich into a more appropriate context with respect to Vietnams history and cultural identity, Vietnam is what Vietnam eats. and its quite the meal.

If food is culture, then street food is one of the most accessible snapshots into Vietnamese life. Its a shame, then, that most in-and-out visitors step over the lady with a backward baseball cap and bucketful of dried eel and head into the safer options that serve up free wi-Fi and sweet and sour chicken authenticity and the concept of experience are left at the door. But at least they can

share with cyberspace their amazement at seeing (not sitting) on tables and chairs taken from a dolls house.

But there are some the more adventurous, the celebrity chefs, the long-term expats and the food bloggers that know whats up; its all about the street. and now is the time to celebrate it. Because if you ever happen to leave Vietnam, you just know that the countrys concrete cuisine is one of the things youll miss the most.

Tell us where you eat and why by emailing [email protected]. But dont stop there tell us your thoughts, troubles and deepest secrets, too.

inBoX

Do you Have any Comments tHat you woulD like to air?

iF so, Please email us at [email protected] or

[email protected]

tweetsof the month

HanoiGrapevine Hanoi Grapevine@wordVietnam oh congrats on your 1,000 followers! woow!

fisheggtree Adam BrayYep! rt @wordVietnam: hanoi Boutique hotels faking @tripadvisorreviews. think the same thing is happening in hCMC? tinyurl.com/5vln3zp #fb

Indigo_Willing Indigo Willing Beautiful pictures of otherworldly historic fairground hidden in overgrown countryside Vietnam in @wordVietnam June issue tinyurl.com/67dob9o

PedroInSaigon Pedro Sanctimonious twaddle."one learns a language because of a sense of responsibility" er, no, one learns a language to communicate

CamThuTran Cam Thu Tran @wordVietnam it's ok not learning the local language for a short stay, but 3 years and uttering nothing than "em oi" is downright shameful

LOVED THE SHOTS

I love the photos for the Son tay piece by Dominic Blewett (June 2011 I Love Summer). he did a great job capturing the poetic and mysterious air, the purple of morning glory of the place. the piece touched on a few fairly good points. however, it is still stuck with the well-worn question of preservation versus renovation. then again, what else is there to talk about an ancient site from a journalistic scope? JG

GET A Grip Mr STrAwbErry

response to the tone up and Shut up piece (July 2011): this is the guy who came to this country, picked up a few tonal innuendos and mundane slang words of the language and now he gets to act all didactic and superior about how he can speak Vietnamese in Vietnam? expats struggling with the linguistic and cultural barrier in a foreign country is not exactly headline news. also, it takes more than a few witty bitty comments to actually move an expat into the them category. the way Joe ruelle worded the article sounded almost like Grow wings and you will be able to fly. Get a grip BL

6 | The Word July 2011 The Word July 2011 | 7

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the big five just in the exhibitionist the buzz overscenethe talk the big

FiveThings to watch out

for this month

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B.a.s.sFor lovers of electronic music that has more depth than a deadmau5 remix, head down to B.A.S.S on Jul. 16 where Synergy Music Productions will be at it again. And for those of you who arent quite sure of the acronym, either, it means Bold Amplified Synergy Sounds, which sounds like it cant go wrong.

The night promises fresh, funky, tribal electro beats mixed by Synergy resident DJs Cache (Australia), Lyo (Japan), Ko (Japan) and Kulture (South Africa). The diligent not-for-profit is currently in the process of securing a venue, but if you catch their eclectic Indivisual night at Hanoi Rock City on Jul. 9, youll have a better idea as to which dancing shoes youll need to lace up.

For more information about the night visit the Synergy website http://smpasia.org or follow them on twitter: @smpasia.org

tHe seConD HalF oF PikniC elektroniCTime is flying by and already were into the third month of the five-month Piknic Elektronic extravaganza. And you just know its one of those things that, when the winters back, youll wish you had made more of. So now is your chance and it should probably be taken after all, its not every season you can sit on grass, get fed with a BBQ and coconuts, and chill out to the sound of electronic beats and croaking frogs. Make your Sundays count while you can.

Piknic Elektronic goes every Sunday until Oct. 9 at Softwater in An Duong. Visit linkhanoi.com for more information, directions and DJ line ups

lymByC systym: soniC Dreams & Future sounDsIts time to forget about genres this month with New York/Austin electronic duo Lymbyc Systym. Its their first time in Vietnam with their balancing act of live drumming, electronic and acoustic instruments and programming all through the delights of the CAMA Sound System.

Indie electro? Laptop post-rock? Folktronica? Whatever you call it, Lymbyc Systym have built a name for themselves by

introducing fresh concepts that expand beyond the constraints of standard genres. Theyve been making waves around the US and globetrotting for the last ten years, and will come to Hanoi for one night only to join electronic act Commens in what will be their final show in the capital.

Pen it in. Saturday Jul. 23, 8pm until late at Cafe Chez Xuan, 41, Ngo 76 An Duong VND150,000 on the door. For more information on CAMA and Lymbyc Systyms 2011 Vietnam tour, visit www.camavietnam.com

vietnam international triatHlonFitness fanatics and those partial to a dose of healthy competition will need to use this month to start training for the upcoming Vietnam International Triathlon. Held from Sep. 10 to Sep. 11 and kicking off along the sands of Hoi Ans Cua Dai Beach, participants have until Aug. 28 to submit their online applications for the race of their choice, which includes the Olympic Distance Individual, Olympic Distance Relay, Kids Aquathon, Vietnam Heritage Ride and Fun Run.

Prices range from US$20 to US$135 depending on the race category and age restrictions apply. Start getting your gym memberships or laps of Hoan Kiem in, around about now

Bastille DayAs always, Jul. 14 marks the remembrance of Bastille Day,

France's Fete Nationale commemorating the 1790 storming The Bastille. A symbol of the uprising of the modern nation, this is the day when the heads of les aristocrats began to roll, and when bigger heads, like those of Robespierre, ushered in the Reign of Terror.

These days, with a short guy called Nicolas Sarkozy at the helm, there is little to worry about on the guillotine front, but for those who want to celebrate with Les Gallois, then the French Embassy will be holding its annual Bastille Day commemoration in the early part of the evening of Jul. 14. This will be followed with a fairly large all-are-welcome, free-of-charge bash in the ball room of the Press Club from 9pm. Expect French food and wine, lots of singing, cheek kissing and attendance from the majority of the city's Gallic community.

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While scaring some, the new bubbles of suburban life are playing a vital role in the development of Hanoi

A NEW NIGHTCLUB HAS oPENED IN Hanoi. It is hardly surprising while thousands of pubs and clubs close in Europe thanks to smoking bans and the financial crisis, it seems that a new spot pops up on a weekly basis in this city to quench the thirst of the old Quarters curb crawlers. But wait for it, this new supersized disco, which has to be the biggest in the city, is not in Hoan Kiem District. Its not even in Ba Dinh. Far from it. Next Stop is in My Dinh, which quite frankly, as another sprouting suburb, is looking like the next stop for just about everything.

With even 3D films included in the mix Cars 2 in 3D is now showing in My Dinhs Garden Shopping Centre before it comes downtown much is moving out of town. The My Dinh National Stadium has snatched the crowds from Hang Day Stadium (page 26) as relentlessly as piranha fish snatch fingers. The National Conference centre is already there and the mirror-windowed skyscrapers in

this suburb make the Hanoi Towers look minor; insignificant, almost.

And in the story about housing on page 56, you may even notice a few lines talking about Eco parks, serviced apartments and sky trains in Gia Lam another of the capitals up and coming suburbs.

Sky trains, we hear you question. In Hanoi?

For some, places like My Dinh, Ciputra and the new developments slated for Gia Lam are the epitome of all they hate about modernizing Vietnam the manicured, palm tree-lined boulevards are too wide, the villas too kitsch and the coffee just a little too American; out here, in these suburbs, the character of the citys alleyways, buildings and traditional ways of living are no more than a crumbling memory.

For the CauseBut the development in West Lake already shows that people can still be urbanites and live outside the city centre. Look at

Xuan Dieu. Why would you need to leave? It has everything supermarkets, schools, bars, street food, oxygen and even a British chippy (page 69). And Ciputra, too. Here, international schools and a handful of restaurants have embraced the space and the people within it, and vice versa; there is now a local economy that fulfills the needs of the areas residents. Ciputra is on the way to becoming a fully-fledged destination in its own right. The same is happening with My Dinh now. And Gia Lam in a few years time.

Places like this are the future of Hanoi. They are different boroughs that offer bubbles of life far too comfortable for people to burst. To become a modern city, Hanoi needs these areas to relieve the densely populated quarters that once defined this ancient capital and the lifestyle of its past.

Its not a pleasant thought, but its a necessary one. And if super clubs, sky trains and 3D films are what it takes to drain the old Quarter of its burden, then so be it get yourself out to My Dinh.

S a n i t i s e d S u bu rbs


the talk

IT SEEMS STRANGE NoW, BUT WHEN I first came to Vietnam, I managed to entirely overlook its now-famed food culture.

Seeing as Hanoi was just my first stop on a nine-month long sabbatical, I shamefully hadnt researched beyond reading the how to get there and away section of South East Asia on a Shoestring.

Much later, when recounting my adventures, I was asked about the food by a friend who was much more culinary aware.

I shrugged. Not knowing my banh cuon from my bun cha, Id mostly eaten uninspiring chicken and rice.

The point being my own ignorance not withstanding it was still possible to come to Vietnam then and not be aware of its food-related reputation. Sure I had the occasional bowl of what I called noodle soup, but it wasnt until I returned years later that I realised Id been eating pho.

Later still, I stopped pronouncing it fo.By then people were declaring themselves

foodies en masse and social media fuelled this international sharing of food fads. Spring rolls, pho, banh mi Vietnam had enough dishes to keep new foodies in raptures for the foreseeable future.

Personally speaking, a large part of my Vietnamese food ignorance was educated out of me by the old Ho Chi Minh City food blogger Noodlepie. Meanwhile, in Hanoi, these Sticky Rice blogs rose to deserved prominence. Then suddenly it felt like food bloggers were everywhere.

Vietnam was lucky its food established a reputation just as the influence of social media grew. By then Thai food was already old hat. By the time we were tweeting and poking each other, pad thai was last years trainers.

Suddenly people were eating for pleasure and the aim of actually filling themselves was third or fourth on the agenda. Meals cooled and congealed as they were photographed, tweeted and Tumblr-ed.

Food became competitive too, Vietnamese and western alike. Magazine and review sites relentlessly argued over the best pho, burger or pizza in town.

Tourists used to do countries now they were doing dishes.

But we live in an era where prime time Star World is split between Masterchef and, inexplicably, a fly-on-the-wall series about a cupcake shop. The storyline being,

they make cupcakes and sometimes get busy.

Somehow Vietnam is at the heart of it all. Anthony Bourdain all but moved here. Ramsay predictably arrived and tiresomely ate snake heart. Rick Stein cooed over bun cha in Hanoi then proceeded to eat it incorrectly for the cameras he tore up the herbs and chucked them in the bowl as if he was eating pho down south.

Like teenagers whose favourite band suddenly makes it big, committed chefs, food bloggers and restaurant critics must have mixed feelings about the new foodies. Their audience is wider than ever before, but by the very nature of the new foodie, it will surely fade again in days, months or years to come.

But what of Vietnams pho ladlers, nem fryers and bun cha grillers? Most had been serving up their specialties for decades just as their parents probably did before them. My guess is that when their dishes became the talk of Manhattan society, London chefs and Sydney restaurateurs they barely even noticed.

Less fickle than the rest of us having survived war, poverty and colonization theyll surely survive fashion, too.

our man STeve jaCkSoNPHo, FasHion anD new FooDies


the talk

Just inwireD!

wow FrienDs anD Family by doing classic street food cuisine from the confusion of your own kitchen. and if you want to minus the confusion, check www.vietfoodrecipes.com where lena Ho, the site founder, teaches a heap of handy recipes from dishes like tofu simmered in tomato sauce and fresh spring rolls to sesame seed snacks. she also runs through how to make dipping sauces, which, lets be honest, youd be a few noodles short of a bowl of pho to ignore.

originally from Hue, many of lenas recipes are from the proud central region where cuisine was and still is fit for a king. But she also has some food from Hanoi and saigon, as well as some vietnamese renditions of Chinese wantons and thai noodles.

meanwhile, if you have allergies or sensitive taste buds and want to avoid certain ingredients, the search engine www.foodily.com is the way forward. type in the dish that you want to cook, then the ingredients that you want to exclude, and the search engine will give you a list of foods to try. you can also choose low carb, low fat or high fibre dishes only. it has a super dep design but doesnt recognize food names in vietnamese. so if you cant stand shrimp paste, then type in vietnamese in the ingredients box and shrimp paste in the without box to get your desired results.

street Food at Home

easy like a sunDay morningWeekend brunch always allows for recovery of mind, body and stomach after a long week. So its good news that Southgate on Tong Duy Tan is doing it proper. Think real Bloody Mary served with olives, cucumber, celery and plenty of spice and bucks fizz as well as other classic breakfast items like eggs benedict served up with a twist. If all goes well, Southgate will look to expand its brunch offerings to Saturday, starting in July. Stay tuned.

To sample the brunch head to Southgate 28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem between 11am and 3pm. Follow Southgate on Twitter: @southgatehanoi

tea timeThis month sees the tea specialists at oChao work with lotus flowers to bring you cups of traditional lotus tea only available till Aug. 15 and priced at VND80,000 per pot. If you consider yourself a morning person, youll be glad to know that oChao is inviting lotus tea enthusiasts to journey with them into the fields to help collect and craft the precious leaves. Book through oChao for the trip priced at VND100,000 and starting at 5am. Also oChao has launched a new lunchtime menu, which changes every two days to use the freshest seasonal ingredients possible.

Pop in to find out more. 25 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Catch the staff at the Tay Ho Weekend Market too

traCey listers BaCkYou may have read and enjoyed Tracey Listers Koto: A Culinary Journey cookbook, which is in its third print run and has sold 9,000 copies. If you did and even if you didnt youll be pleased to know that the chef and person behind the scenes of Hanoi Cooking Centre has a new book in the pipeline. And what better theme than Vietnamese Street Food? This book, which she has co-authored with Andreas Pohl, will be released in Australia, the UK, New Zealand and Vietnam, and features favourite recipes as well as less heard of street food gems from Hanoi and further south.

Vietnamese Street Food will be released in September 2011. You can still pick up a copy of Koto: A Culinary Journey and speak to Tracey directly by popping into Hanoi Cooking Centre at 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh eXtra PePPeroni?

Pepperonis has recently opened its new line of stores Pepperonis Xtra, which combines the best items of Papa Joes and Pepperonis all under one roof. The new brand has added coffee and a homemade cake collection that creates a nice addition to the smaller selections of pizza, pasta, rib and salad items.

Pepperonis Xtra is at 2 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem. Call 3518 5555 for more information and details of their new menu

Openings, re-openings and all that is new

elite sPa oPensIts finally opened the long awaited spa at Elite Fitness on Xuan Dieu. And to celebrate, theres an offer of buy three, get three free on a selection of spa treatments that combine eastern and western techniques and methods.

Elite Spa is on the 3rd floor of Elite Fitness and Spa at 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho next to the Syrena Centre. Call 3718 6433 for more information

CaPoeira CourseHanoi is just about to get more Afro-Brazilian with Zenith Yoga offering classes in capoeira an art form that mixes martial arts and dance. The course will run for eight weeks and the suggested times for the classes are Tuesday 10.15am to 11.30am, Tuesday 7pm to 8.30 pm, Friday 6pm to 7pm or Sunday 7pm to 8pm. Zenith needs at least eight people signed up to start this class, so get in touch if youre up for it. The fee will be US$95 for 12 classes, which works out at a minor VND165,000 per session. Classes will be held by Daniel Mayer, who has 10 years worth of training and teaching experience with one of the major capoeira groups in Brazil (Abada-Capoeira).

For more information call 0904 356561 or pop into Zenith Yoga at 3rd Floor, 111 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho

getaway to moC CHau witH HanDsPanThe upland mountains and sprawling tea fields of Moc Chau may only be four hours north of Hanoi, but during the heat and madness of the summer, the upland community feels like it belongs in another dimension. Every weekend in July, Handspan is offering their new two-day tour to Moc Chau, where travellers can explore Thai and Hmong villages, hike to secluded waterfalls and soak in cool mountain breezes. More adventurous travellers that feel the need to burn some calories or some rubber during their trip can purchase packages with biking options.

Contact Handspan at 3926 2828 or visit www.handspan.com for more information or stop by their office at 78 Ma May, Hoan Kiem


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The Word July 2011 | 13

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tHe eXHiBitionist laugH From Down

unDerPuku is hosting a comedy night with Australian Comedian Marcus Ryan on Thursday Jul. 7. Ryan has done the rounds, mostly in Europe, Australia and New Zealand, and now challenges himself with an audience in Hanoi. Newest band on the citys expat music scene, Good Mouth Feel, will also perform on the night.

The show will start at 8pm. Call 3928 5244 for more information. Puku is at 16 Tong Duy Tan, Ba Dinh

get oFFenDeD, Hits styleThe theatre yarn ball rolls on, this time out of the theatre and through three local cafes and restaurants in a weekend of theatrical spectacular. or non-theatrical were not quite sure. Either way, its set to be a little different from what you may be used to; an anti-play challenging the world of theatre and theatregoers.

on the last three days of July, Hanoi International Theatre Society (HITS) presents Offending the Audience from Austrian dramatist Peter Handke.

At 8pm on Friday Jul. 29, the much-loved courtyard at Hanoi Cooking Centre (44 Chau Long) will get even more intimate. The night after, at 8pm on Saturday Jul. 30, Offending the Audience will be the inaugural theatre performance at the latest venue in town The Hanoi Social Club (6 Hoi Vu), which will serve dinner before and after the show. Lastly, HITS will offend customers in Puku (16-18 Tong Duy Tan) at 5pm on Sunday Jul. 31.

Do just one or all three nights theyre set to be very different, but just as offensive as each other.Tickets are going for VND100,000 and are available from Hanoi Cooking Centre and Bookworm, Hanoi Social Club, and Puku. Visit www.

hitshanoi.com, Hanoi International Theatre Society' Facebook Page or Hanoi Grapevine for more information. Or Email [email protected] for further inquiries

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ThreeWeeks


the talk

tHe BuZZ General news, promotions and events around town

Drink anD save at CluB oPera novelIf youre craving caffeine go to Club opera Novel between 2pm and 5pm for quite the fix an unlimited flow of German tea and Lavazza coffee for VND60,000. And if you prefer it alcoholic then go between 5pm and 6.30pm or 9pm and 11pm to get all beer and wine from the menu at half price. Fresh homemade snacks will also be dished up free of charge. Sounds like a party.

Club Opera Novel is at 17 Trang Tien. Call 3972 8001 for more information

Dons summer menu Westlake bistro Dons Tay Ho has introduced a Canadian twist this month to celebrate Canada Day on Jul 1. Canadian influences like fresh milk-fed veal, Atlantic oysters from Prince Edward Island and Canadian Atlantic lobsters are all lined up. As is live music six days a week with jazz, reggae, funk, Latino and bongo to entertain to keep your ears happy while you eat.

Don's is launching a new online delivery menu keep posted at www.dons-bistro.com

Bargain summer getawaysExotissimo has crafted some discount packages for those with itchy feet this summer. There are a few to choose from, like deals for the ancient city of Hoi An starting at US$59 per room per night, which includes breakfast and the chance to stay four nights but only pay for three. An extra five percent discount will be applied on promo tours between Jul. 1 and Aug. 15. of course, Sapa is on the menu, as is Halong Bay and Phu Quoc.

For the list of summer getaway offers visit www.exotissimo.com Boo on Ba trieuIf youre a fan of everything Boo and Bo Sua, stay tuned to the shops website (bosua.vn) throughout the first half of July for launch dates of their new venture at 308 Ba Trieu Boociti; a mix of shop, office space and caf with the main theme being green retail. Its pencilled in for the middle of the month and there will be half price deals on clothes for some of the first customers to walk through the freshly cut ribbon.

Walk into any of Boos current stores to find out more, or see www.bosua.vn

HaPPy Hour times FiveEvery Friday through to Sunday in July, the open-air party space at Press Club will play host to a happy hour lasting five hours (5pm to 10pm) with canaps and live music. Also on the terrace this month will be BoGoF cocktails on Thursdays from 5pm to 10pm, with live music from a Filipino Acoustic Duo until 8.30pm. And on the same two-for-one vibe, the Press Clubs pizzas are going BoGoF every weekend on eat in, takeaway and deliveries.

For pizzas and other enquiries call 3934 0888.

JasPas in Hoi anThe Alfrescos Group has announced a new addition to its stable of bars and restaurants with the launch of Jaspas Beach Club (JBC) along the shores of An Bang beach in Hoi An.

Decked out with comfy furniture, JBC serves the homely type of western comfort food for which the brand has become known for a menu of hearty hamburgers, assorted pasta dishes and various pan-Asian nibbles such as tuna rolls. To celebrate its opening, JBC is currently offering a buy-one-get-one-free promotion on meals of the same value.

For further information, call Jaspas Beach Club on 0510 392 8727

sailing into tHe FutureThe Sailing Club Group has announced the launch of a new resort in Nha Trang, and an overall company rebrand.

Situated by the East Sea and with its own private beach, the new Mia Resort Nha Trang features 50 rooms many with their own pools a spa and two high-end but casual eating and drinking venues. As a special introductory offer, guests will be entitled to a stay for two nights, pay for one deal at the resort. Also, to mark the new era, both the new resort and the companys extant property in Mui Ne will be branded under the name Mia.

The Sailing Club Nha Trang will celebrate its 17th birthday on Jul. 30 with a beach party in case you happen to be down on the beach.

For all Sailing Club Group-related news, visit www.sailingclubvietnam.com

the talk


the talkthe talk

tHe Hanoi tannoy

overheard around town

I woke up with, literally, a face full of The Word

She led be to believe it was only going to be a grand

I do like mums, but not ones with clown hairstyles

Just be careful you don't go straight into the friend zone

apparently, Hanoi Watchdog may be another lesbian hoax

Some say Hanoi Watchdog is a publicity stunt by The New Hanoian

My cousin used to write in a comedy-penis font in high school

Flavour of the month is food poisoning

It isnt easy cold calling yourself

Someone has destroyed our shoe rack and stolen our motorbike ramp

the last time I used ID at a bar was around the last time I updated my wardrobe

hes about as attractive as a rash

either hes got a bad eye infection or he wanted that patch to match all the musketeer shirts in here.

CHiCa steak nigHtsChica restaurant on the 8th floor of the Hoa Binh Palace Hotel is holding steak nights every Tuesday, Wednesday and Saturday from 6.15pm till 11pm. It has created a special set menu for the occasion with highlights like prawn wonton soup, green papaya salad with spicy seafood and a range of 200g steaks everything from rib eye to T-bone. The set menu includes drinks and dessert, and is priced at US$25.90 per person.

27 Hang Be, 8th Floor, Hoa Binh Palace Hotel, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 2243 4370

summer Promotions at Fortuna HotelFurtuna hotel isnt missing out on preparing various promotion packages this summer. Whether you are looking to hold an anniversary party for your company or even a wedding, its worth knowing that with every 10 paying tables youll get one free. There are also business deals up for grabs.

Visit their website at fortunahotels.com or call 3831 3333

mysterious metroPole BunkerThe Metropole was forced to halt its Bamboo Bar refurbishment when drilling uncovered a bunker used to protect hotel guests during the American War. According to a blog post by general manager Kai Speth, the bunker ceases to exist in the hotels records but American folk singer Joan Baez claims to have kept guests entertained during one raid in the mystery bunker, singing to the impromptu accompaniment of a guests guitar. The shelter remains unexplored and Speth admits to feeling like Indiana Jones entering the Temple of Doom. The GM is planning to lower a camera into the bunker to explore its unknown depths.

To keep up to date with discoveries at the Sofitel Legend Metropole visit www.themetropoleblog.com

saigon to mui ne By CHoPPerThe Vietnam Air Service Company (Vasco) has announced that it will soon begin flights by helicopter from Ho Chi Minh Citys Tan Son Nhat Airport to the popular beach town of Mui Ne in Binh Thuan Province (see page 59). Each six-seat AS350-B2 helicopter can carry 1,100kg. Most appealingly, though, the travel time between the two destinations, which currently stands at between five to six hours via bus, will reportedly be shortened to roughly 40 minutes.

HoliDays For CasHHolidaymakers that book international travel packages this summer with Buffalo Tours Agency (BTA) and ANZ and pay in installments over six months will receive a monetary rebate between US$300 and US$500 on various packages around the world.

For further information on this and BTAs other promotions, visit www.buffalotours.com.vn

tHe montH aHeaD @ HrCExpect another big one at Hanoi Rock City this month. on Friday Jul. 8, the Tay Ho super-venue (or as close as you can get to one in Hanoi) is set to host a new band that features Ryan Chittick from Commens on drums and Bush Lam from AKAT on bass/vocals, who, according to the bill, are up for a night of heavy, experimental tunes.

The following weekend on Friday Hop City Mini Fest V takes the stage with b-boys, thick basslines, rapping and wall painting, while on the Saturday, Synergy will host a night full of deep, dark, funky, tribal, anti-cheese. Then on Friday, Jul. 22, producer and DJ DMN SLYR from California has been hired to drop some downright dirty electronic cuts, too. Sounds like it could be an experimental and bass-heavy month. Were there.

To hear it all live, head to 27/52, To Ngoc Van. Follow HRC updates on Twitter: @hanoirockcity

Hilton Does BBQs anD F1The Hilton has started weekend BBQ nights subject to weather conditions and, as seems to be a growing trend, Grand Prix Formula one sessions. The first of the F1 showings will be for the British Grand Prix on Jul. 10 (7pm), then the German Grand Prix on Jul. 24 and finally for July the Hungarian Grand Prix on Jul. 31. They will all be screened live in JJs Sports Bar.

Hotel nikkoHotel Nikko is offering its executive and deluxe rooms with added benefits this month perfect if you have business folk or family visiting for summer. Executive rooms are going for US$145 per night and the deluxe options for US$165. Both rooms include added extras like a free 30-minute massage, two hours free use of the executive board room, unlimited WIFI, laundry services and a daily buffet breakfast.

Hotel Nikko Hanoi is at 84 Tran Nhan Tong, Hai Ba Trung

worDs worDs worDs Finale

The final event in the Bookworms 2011 Festival of Words is perfect for linguists and writers looking to make a living from home. The talk will be held by novelist and freelance editor Michael La Rocca, who has written nine published novels and edited over 300 mainly from the comfort of his living room since leaving home in 1999. Michael

will talk about the joys, pitfalls and profits to be made by working as a freelance editor in strange and distant places.

The last Festival of Words will be on Wednesday, Jul, 13 7.30pm at The Hanoi Cooking Centre Restaurant, 44 Chau Long. Info and bookings at [email protected] or call 3715 3711

tHai reigns suPreme at golF oPenThe first Vietnam Amateur open to take place at the Danang Golf Club ended with a Thai phenom on top of the leader board. The 17-year-old, Chanachox Dejpiratana, rode a red-hot putter to an impressive 68 and a six-stroke victory with Singapores Marc ong Chong finishing second best with a four-day total of 292 (4 over). The closest Vietnamese challenger was Nguyen Van Thong, who carded a final-round 70 to finish in fifth place overall but 13 shots clear of countryman Lau A Bau. Thong has claimed the national title twice in seven attempts.


the talk


the talk

in tHe PaPers The best of the Vietnamese press

anti-vietnam DvDs ConFisCateD at airPort Customs officers at Ho Chi Minh Citys Tan Son Nhat Airport said they seized 23 DVDs containing anti-state information from a Vietnamese passenger aboard a flight from Singapore to Vietnam last month.

Tran Song Hai, 39, had the DVDs in his hand luggage that was inspected on his arrival from Singapore. The custom officers said the discs contain defamatory material and calls for war, violating Vietnamese laws. Under Vietnamese law, those who produce, store and distribute anti-state propaganda could be sentenced to between three and 12 years in jail.

The passenger and the DVDs were handed over to local authorities for further investigation.

Pink lotus as new national FlowerThe pink lotus will likely become Vietnams national flower after it was voted the most popular in polls conducted in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi and Danang. More than 70 percent (around 31,150 ballots) voted for the lotus, followed by the apricot and peach blossom in Ho Chi Minh City.

Vietnam is not the only country that loves the lotus. It is also the national flower of India (white lotus), Egypt and Sri Lanka, said professor Nguyen Lan Dung.

Many countries have national flowers including Iran (rose), Russia (sunflower) and Mexico (dahlia).

Lotus has been a Vietnamese cultural image for generations. It is easy to spot with large, green and colourful lotus ponds commonly seen in rural areas. It has deep roots in Vietnamese minds and hearts and is widely considered as the symbol of simplicity, hospitality and purity. It is able to grow in muddy ponds and can purify the water.

In Buddhism, the lotus is a symbol of mystery, illusion and depth. Blossomed flowers symbolise the past, lotus cups the present, and lotus seeds the future.

In Vietnamese architecture and in Buddhism, the image of the lotus also represents salvation and enlightenment.

FootBall reality sHow KBS TV of the Republic of Korea will launch its reality TV Shootdori in Vietnam in August. It will be called

Football Kids.The 30-minute

show, produced by Vietnam

Television in cooperation with TJB Company, is aiming to discover

young football talent.

Vietnamese footballer Nguyen Hong Son will coach potential stars, while comedians Tu Long and Thanh Trung will act as commentators. MC Linh Huong will act as team manager.

Participants will be encouraged to play football while developing their team-building skills through outdoors

activities. They will also be given the chance to visit the Republic of Korea.

Producers will begin looking for young talent this month, and the first

show will be aired at 5.30pm on channel VTV3 on Aug. 28.

KBS TV launched Shootdori in 2007. More than 500 football clubs for kids have been established since then.

vietnams weBsites attaCkeD Around 200 Vietnamese websites, 10 percent of which are managed by government agencies, have been attacked over the past 10 days, an Internet security agencys representative has told Thanh Nien.

The representative said the hacks mainly changed the sites interfaces, adding that the number of attacks is likely to increase.

one of the most suffered targets, the Ministry of Agriculture and Rural Developments portal, has seen about 20 of its websites hacked.

A source from the ministrys network security supporter said that they have identified that the Internet protocols

(IP) of computers attacking the portal were from China. Meanwhile, Nguyen Minh Duc, director of Hanoi-

based Bach Khoa Internetwork Security Companys internet security department, also confirmed that

hundreds of Vietnamese websites have been attacked last month without clear reasons.

Hackers changed the attacked sites homepage interface and left messages in Chinese or English together

with the images of the Chinese flag, according to Duc, adding

that their attack methods werent special and seemed spontaneous. The attacked websites didnt have

high security, the expert said. He suggested Vietnamese

websites back up data and re-check their security to avoid future problems.

From CanaDa witH HiPPy loveLast month, Vietnamese police arrested three alleged members of a drug smuggling ring that shipped marijuana through the mail from Canada to Vietnam.

Previously, officers of a post office in Hanois Thanh Xuan District discovered more than 450 grams of dried cannabis and two mobile phones in a package sent from Canada.

The package was intended to be sent to Truong Thi Nga, a 35-year-old employee of a private company in Hanoi. The police arrested Nga and two other suspects while they were receiving the package at the post office.

Last February, a man in the northern province of Quang Ninh was arrested while receiving a parcel of marijuana sent from Canada at a local post office. The package contained 1,000 grams of dried leaves and flowers of the hemp plant. Based on the mans testimony, local police arrested another member of the Canada-Vietnam drug smuggling ring.

Investigations are still under way.

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1 soft drink for only VND 150.000


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scenenortHern eXPosure iiSynergy gathered Hanois talent under one roof and let rip for the second time

soutHgate oPensThe food street restobar opened in style with plenty of beats and tasty canopes

Poetry BorDello @ la CooPerative

Press Day @ vine Cellar Door

CoFFee Bean oPens in Hanoi

Hanoi Bar CHallenge

Festival oF worDs @ HCC

The citys poets got together in an event put on by The Hanoi Writers Collective

To celebrate the press, the Xuan Dieu off license-cum-gourmet market got the citys reporters together for a few drinks

The first outlet for the coffee and tea specialists opened with a dragon dance and great coffee at the new Picomall on Tay Son

Teams from different restaurants and coffee shops took on a race made up of four checkpoints beer hoi, rice wine, tea and champagne

Foodies Tracey Lister, Mark Lowerson and Andreas Pohl were among the speakers at the bia hoi inspired installment

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DoCToR TADASHI HATToRI IS NoT eight feet tall. No magical fairies flutter about his head. He cant lift a bus with his little finger. He cant even fly. Instead, the powers of this super hero-like doctor from Japan are based on something even stranger: reality.

If you had to assign Hattori superhuman traits, you might focus on his hands. They carry out the intricate work of vision and retina restoration surgery. But while his hands are remarkably steady, its actually his eyes that have a rare power Hattori has the ability to see a world full of need and not feel powerless. He can look at the heavy burdens of others and offer ways to lighten them.

Hattori came to Vietnam for the first time in 2002. What he saw deeply affected him. He observed large numbers of people suffering from blindness. At the same time there was a lack of medical equipment, doctors kept patients waiting, and surgery costs far outstripped what was feasible for the average family. He also saw one thing that many miss: a chance to really do something.

Because sending patients abroad for surgery did not make financial sense, because the Japanese government did not give him the funding for supplies he requested, because his father taught him selflessness, and because his wife said it was okay, he bought his own surgical equipment and hauled it by hand on his next trip to Vietnam.

A decade on, Hattori has operated on more than 10,000 patients here. He has travelled up and down the country to the poorest provinces and doesn't play as much golf as he used to. He is on a tireless two-week rotation between Japan and Vietnam and rarely takes time for himself.

surgical spiritIn Japan, Hattori works as a highly respected retina specialist and earns money to finance trips to Vietnam. He

bases himself in Hanoi and his schedule here is always full.

During the week, he is usually at the capitals National Institute of ophthalmology, but he also spends time at the Hanoi Eye Hospital, Friendship Hospital, and Telecom Hospital. He trains doctors in retina surgery and also performs the complicated operations himself.

I like returning to Hanoi, says the doctor. I get to see the improvements in the skill level of the Vietnamese doctors I train.

Thanks to him, Hanois ophthalmologists are now some of the best in the country.

Each weekend, Hattori travels to a different province to operate. Most of his weekend patients cant afford the surgery to save their vision, so he works on a volunteer basis and pays the local hospitals with his own money when necessary.

on a typical weekend, the doctor operates on 70 to 100 patients. But hes not one of those celebrity surgeons with an obliging entourage. Because of limited human resources, Hattori unloads his own equipment, prepares the surgical rooms, evaluates and treats his patients, then cleans up. He makes sure the three Vietnamese doctors who accompany him do the same.

I teach the whole process, from AZ, not just the surgery, says Hattori. His emphasis is always on quality and putting patients first.

His days can last from 7am until nearly midnight.

the reason BeingA question he has been asked more than once is why? What drives a person to give so much of himself to help perfect strangers?

Cars, luxury items, expensive houses: what purpose do they serve when youre

dead? he says. Maybe your children will have something new to quarrel over.

In the process Dr Hattori appears to have learned something about satisfaction, as well as selflessness. He could probably have a more comfortable life as a university professor, or as the head of his ophthalmology department in Japan. He could make more money and improve his golf swing on the weekends.

Playing golf made me tired, he explains. Yes, surgery also makes me tired, but, its the kind that immediately disappears with the genuine smile of a child.

In many ways, these smiles are his only payment. But when they're real, they're enough.

I see so much happiness in the eyes of my patients and they share all of it with me, he says.

Altruism is something that Hattori has been pondering for a long time. Recently his thoughts on happiness were published in a book-length collection of essays hes written throughout his career. The crux of the book is doing.

If you act and have regrets later, okay, that is life. But what a pity it is if you never do anything, he says. Before complaining, we should do. And when no one is there to tell you what to do, you need to find something yourself.

Nevertheless, the doctor doesnt mind making suggestions. When giving speeches around Vietnam and Japan to raise money, he often says to audiences at charity events: If you are a rich person and dont know how to spend your money, give it to me, I know how.

We need fewer conferences on how to make money, and more conferences on how to spend it, he says.

Doctor Tadashi Hattori is holding a fundraising event in Ho Chi Minh City in October. Keep up to date at www.wordhanoi.com and www.wordhcmc.com. For information on how to donate, email the doctor himself on [email protected].

A selfless hero who hAs helped over 10,000 vietnAmese pAtients regAin their sight, JApAnese doctor tAdAshi hAttori tells KAitlin rees thAt he does it All to see A smile A reAl smile. photo by AAron Joel sAntos

most of his weeKend pAtients cAnt Afford the surgery to sAve their vision so hAttori worKs

on A volunteer bAsis And pAys the locAl hospitAls

with his own money when necessAry


I


OOR AT LEAST THATS HoW current stadium manager Nguyen Cong Tuan tells it when asked for some insight into the history of the stadium. Tucked away off Nguyen Thai Hoc on Trinh Hoai Duc, Hang Day straddles the boundary between Ba Dinh and Dong Da district.Constructed in the early 1960s, the stadium was designed to showcase sporting fixtures and celebrations events that would, as Mr Toan puts it, highlight the glory of all Vietnam. Hang Day is no longer the national stadium. It was relegated following the construction of the much larger My Dinh National Stadium in 2003, and now its duties mainly consist of hosting regional events and V-League football fixtures the 1,000-year celebratory events and Backstreet Boys were nowhere near.But of course, Uncle Ho still has a place at the stadium, albeit in time-faded photographic form; a huge portrait is plastered between banners on the back wall of one of the stands. Providing a backdrop is a colour scheme of shocking cerulean and pale yellow. Its washed out and peeling in any place you care to look, which doesnt do much to dispel the general feeling that the stadiums best days are over a consensus accentuated by the haphazard piles of used sports gear that litter the arena and by the anecdotes of workers.

season tickets spare Phuong Nang Phu, a fifteen-year veteran of Hang Days security services, who proudly mentions its his duty to open the stadiums main gate when an event is on, speaks with candour about the falling crowd numbers he has witnessed in his time here. In contrast to the 1998 Tiger Cup, for which he says there were not enough seats to fulfil spectator demand, Mr Phu says that most of the arenas 20,000 seats are now vacant on match day. He blames this on the declining quality of local football, where players are not as enthusiastic as they were when he took to the field. He says they play now for money and not for the enjoyment of themselves and the crowd.

Mr Toan sheepishly admits that while attending games is part of his job, he doesnt particularly enjoy watching what people come to the stadium and pay for. Its hoped that a year-long upgrade of lighting and seating facilities, due to be completed in August, will revitalise the arena and attract more patrons, but Mr Phu perhaps puts it best when he says that the revamp will only change the face, and not the heart of the stadium.

Nearby, at one of the many sports equipment shops whose wares spill out and clutter the sidewalks of Trinh Hoai Duc, things are not nearly so gloomy. As she stands out the front of her shop and watches a shuttlecock pass between two childrens rackets Mrs Loan, who has owned Tuan Vu Sports for over 25 years, explains that the stadium has transformed

the street into a mecca for those in need of sporting hardware.

When people think sport they think Hang Day, she says, proudly proclaiming her street as the centre of Hanois sporting culture.

that match Day vibeCome to the stadium before a match and its hard to disagree with Mrs Loan, such is the disparity between the aforementioned tales of woe and the streets metamorphosis into a buzzing focus of activity.

While Trinh Hoai Duc is a thoroughfare during the week, most motorists avoid it on match days. Police patrol a cordoned-off area reserved for the thronging masses of

people waiting to walk through Mr Phus doors. The atmosphere is one of anticipation and excitement. Snack vendors weave in and out of the milling crowd, quenching thirst with soda and bat bao (eight flavour) tea, while rival ticket-sellers fight for customers in frantic, high-pitched shouting matches.

Tea stall owner Nguyen Hong Thanh describes the scene as unlike any other in Hanoi a flurry of activity and a kaleidoscope of colour, with the varying hues of supporters costumes contrasting with the tranquil green of the streets trees. She says she would love to sneak in and watch the games, using the same route as the children who squeeze between a gap in the fence near her patch of turf, but the extra customers mean she cant afford to leave her

stall. She doubles her daily takings when a match is on.

Granted, when everyone has made their way into the stadium it still ends up less than a quarter full, but the dedicated supporters do their best to make it sound as packed as possible. Mrs Loan, who gets in free because she is a neighbour of the stadium, says that while the arenas golden age may be over, it still has an important place in the heart of many Hanoians.

In a city that seems intent on rebuilding itself before the cement has set on its current foundations, its a rare thing to find a place that seems to be standing still and looking wistfully to the past. This gives Hang Day a unique charm a beauty that lies in its cracked, decaying grandeur.


The Voice

the many faces of hanoi

NGUYEN THI VAN ANH WoULD BE A major celebrity if people only knew her face. For the past seven years, she has narrated foreign television shows and films on VTV and VoV, and she has perhaps the most recognisable voice in the country. But as she says, I like that I can still walk down the street without people recognising me.

In normal conversation, theres nothing immediately striking about Anhs voice. While the cadences of her steady, yet slightly coy speech are slightly familiar, there is nothing out of the ordinary about her speech.

Can we hear the voice?With a little bit of prodding, Anh

searches around for a magazine and finds a suitable passage. After briefly studying the selected words, she rattles them off in the voice that has entertained a nation.

With bold and sonorous reverberations, Anhs television voice is as familiar as the chant of a banh bao vendor on a bike anyone who has been in Vietnam for longer than a passing visit has heard it.

The voice must remain healthy. Anh always wears a mask when outdoors and keeps herself wrapped up in winter. She

cleans her mouth and rinses her nasal cavity with saltwater to preserve her pipes. Sleep is also vital and she refuses to yell at people. Strict rules are necessary if she is to record up to five shows in a single morning.

With my job, its important to portray the character in the movie, but not my own character, says Anh. The most important part of being a storyteller is your ability to control your emotions.

In the TV shows and films that Anh works on, the original audio is lowered, but still audible, and she becomes the lone storyteller, supplying the dialogue spoken by the numerous characters, both male and female. She provides context, rather than trying to replicate the emotions present in the foreign language.

In southern Vietnam and most other Asian countries, the characters voices in foreign features are often replaced with a cast of voice actors that seek to recapture the emotions present in the original audio. But Anh says people in northern Vietnam prefer the method she employs because they can hear the original audio and the emotions of the real actors, not stand-ins. David Stout

""With bold and sonorous

reverberations, Anhs television voice is as familiar as the

chant of a banh bao vendor on a bike"

32 | The Word July 2011 The Word July 2011 | 33 32 | The Word June 2011

lot of people probably say that real Hanoians are difficult, says Pham Anh Tuyet, the owner and soul behind Anh Tuyet at 25 Ma May, an establishment that

prides itself on serving authentic Hanoian cuisine.

If you offer them the wrong type of food, then theyd rather not eat, she says.

And while eating on the streets may these days be the preferred gastronomic experience for foreigners and those Hanoians not eating at home, Tuyet a

true Hanoian explains that this wasnt always the case. The origins of street food are tethered to the reforms of the mid-1980s; a time when an increasing amount of individuals became invested in entrepreneurial ventures that often revolved around food.

When I was growing up in the 1950s and 1960s, street food was brought into the homes, she says. If you were in need of pho, che or any other dish, a vendor with a shoulder pole would be fetched to serve the meal inside the house.

Back then, eating on the pavement was for uneducated, low-skilled labourers. And even now, at a time when Vietnams street food is famed all over the world, Tuyet has her reservations about eating roadside. For one thing, she says the portions are too big;

real Hanoian cuisine came in much smaller servings.

The food, she says, should be tasted and savoured rather than gobbled down frantically.

a Pinch of ProvinceAccording to Tuyet, the food served at street stalls today has deviated from traditional Hanoian fare and is highly influenced by the palates of provincial newcomers to the city. What the pavements eateries serve up now is more of pan-northern fusion.

Now in one bowl of bun rieu you will see beef, tofu and several other things, says Tuyet. According to the chef, bun rieu should emphasize the dishs crab component and should be prepared differently to, say, bun thang. But as more people move here from the provinces, the food reflects the changing nature of the city.

There are not many people that can make real Hanoian food anymore, says Tuyet. But there are not many people who expect those standards either.

But chef and author of Culinary Vietnam, Daniel Hoyer, explains that street food is the real deal. It is Hanoi food because its a reflection of what Hanoi food is today, he says.

Whether its the beef in a bowl of pho or the icy beer that accompanies a friendly

conversation on a plastic stool, the capitals cuisine is seasoned with subtle touches that are shaped by the citys history. occupation, colonisation, cooperation and migration have all played their part in crafting a cuisine defined by its ability to be both subtle and complex all at once. But while domestic migration and contact with outsiders over the centuries has allowed Vietnamese cuisine to evolve and embrace new ingredients and methodologies, the resulting fare has remained congruent with the local palate.

Anything that comes here goes through

a filter and comes back out Vietnamese, says Hoyer.

Broths and BiaVietnamese food has got heavy overseas influences, says historian Dao Hung. Take a bowl of pho with its beef, noodles, broth and herbs. According to Hung, the dishs gastronomic origins are rooted in a Chinese noodle dish from Guangdong. That version is filled with buffalo meat and is flavoured with Chinese herbs, which provides the dish with a much darker and stronger broth.

But Hanoians are very conservative when it comes to eating, explains Hung, in reference to residents aversion to the existence of any one overpowering flavour in a dish. Thats why, in Hanoi, the local incarnation of pho is served with a little

ANyThINg ThAT COmES hERE gOES ThROUgh A fIlTER ANd COmES bACk OUT VIETNAmESE

34 | The Word July 2011 The Word July 2011 | 35 34 | The Word June 2011

coriander, spring onion and mint to help produce a lighter broth. And rather than buffalo meat, Hanoian pho is all about the beef, which was introduced during the French colonial era.

Beef, for example, is everywhere in Hanoian dishes, says Hung. Before [the French], the Vietnamese people were not used to eating beef.

But the historian is quick to point out that beefs popularity is largely confined to restaurants, just as pho is almost exclusively consumed outside of the home. According to an informal survey the 80-year-old conducted among his friends people whom he qualifies as real Hanoians the preferred meat for home cooking is pork.

With baguettes, fried eggs and coffee ubiquitous, the French influences are easily spotted. The most noticeable difference with Chinese cuisine, meanwhile, is in the Vietnamese historical predilection for uncooked vegetables. In China, vegetables are often drowned in oil, garlic and sauces, and are stir-fried in woks, whereas Vietnamese methods are often about embracing freshness and leaving the sauces on the side. This has led to the popularisation of Vietnamese cuisine as a healthier alternative to Chinese food.

As Hung explains, poultry met pho during the American War. To ensure that

cows stayed in the fields to assist with rice production, chicken was served as a substitute for beef and almost became the norm.

During the same period, rice wine was also not drunk food could no longer be wasted on creating an alcoholic drink. While some surely bemoaned the loss of ruou, this led to the promotion of a uniquely Hanoian addition to the countrys al fresco dining scene bia hoi.

Although beer was nothing new in Hanoi in the 1960s, most Hanoians had stayed away from the overly bitter hoppy beers favoured by the French. According to Hung, the brewery on Hoang Hoa Tham was built by the French in the late 1800s, but after 1954, with the help of Czech technicians, the brewery began to churn out the much lighter pilsner drafts more suited to the tastes of Hanoians. In the mid-1960s, the beer was served in kegs around town in outdoor venues. The establishments soon became magnets for artists and members of the intelligentsia, and anyone else looking to take the edge off during days of turmoil.

Historians went to one spot and writers went to another, but if you were looking for friends, you would just go to a bia hoi and find them there, says Hung. A lot of great stories came from those tables.

FOOd: Banh CuonFamOuS gO TO: 14 Hang Ga, Hoan Kiem

our pancakes are delicious; we use the best cuts of meat and the freshest ingredients, but keep our prices low, says the veteran proprietor of this outlet serving fragrant, squidgy, meat pancakes. At its busiest from 7am to 10am and then 1pm to 5pm, this place has seen many of its customers returning for years: I never go anywhere else, I love the crispy onions, says 23-year-old Phuong.

For us, though, as delicate and summery as the pancakes are, the highlight is the dipping sauce deeply aromatic, smoky and sweet; its hard to imagine banh cuon without it.

SHOuld iT be FamOuS: Yes for the dipping sauce and the commanding, husky voice of the proprietor. Its so successful that a second shop is now open on Le Van Huu. Three generations of the same family run both properties. alternatives: Banh Cuon Phu Ly, 39 Dao Duy Tu.


FOOd: Bun ChaFamOuS gO-TO: Bun Cha Dac Kim, 1 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem

"We're famous because we've been going so long and for the quality of our bun cha," says one of the sisters running this beast of a four-storey joint. Now with over 40 years of operation behind it, this place is packed almost every day, especially at noon. The former you probably can't disagree with: it has been here a while. And the quality? Well, the portions are huge maybe twice the average size and some of the patties are wrapped in lot leaf giving them a tangy edge. Also

the raw ingredients are generally of a higher standard. But for us, the bacon and leafless patties lack seasoning and the fish sauce broth can be a touch salty. It would also be great to see some tra da on the menu to wash it all down with. Sheer quantity comes at a price its VND50,000 per bowl. SHOuld iT be FamOuS? Yes for longevity and its devoted following, but maybe not necessarily for the bun cha or impersonal vibe. alternatives: 99 Hang Ga, 36 Le Van Huu, 81 Lac Long Quang and Ms Ngoc on Chan Cam street.

FOOd: Cha CaFamOuS gO-TO: Cha Ca La Vong, 14 Cha Ca, Hoan Kiem

While the venue is not a street food establishment per se, the street that the restaurant resides on was named after the only dish it serves, thus making it more than worthy of its varied clientele. Cha ca has been on the menu inside this crumbling house for than more 100 years. The place has been managed by seven generations of the same family and they dish out the oily,

dill-imbued fresh water fish to tourists and locals day after day.

SHOuld iT be FamOuS: Time is on its side and the food speaks for itself, but because its a prominent culinary stop for many tour groups, prices are inflated VND150,000 for one serving, and a pretty small serving at that. alternatives: Any of the other establishments dedicated to the fare on Cha Ca. The dish is also served at Madame Hien (pictured), 15 Chan Cam, and at Nha Hang Ngon at 26 Tran Hung Dao.


FamOuS gO-TO: Hung Ben, 26 Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh

Surely pho cuon is just pho cuon? Well, yes and no. Having tried a number of places around Truc Bach, it turns out that pho cuon usually is just pho cuon. But here, the beef and herbs wrapped in rice noodle are just a tad tastier. It may be the drop of soya sauce in the dipping mix, or something added to the beef in the prep stage the rolls

have a welcome Worcestershire sauce tang to them. The pho chien is good too; crispy and light with a thick dressing, which is rich like

good gravy.

SHOuld iT be FamOuS? Yes. According to the man counting the money, this was one of the first places to do pho cuon. The size of the operation is impressive, too, as is the quality of pho sheets all wrapped up hygienically on delivery and the number

of polystyrene boxes being taken away by people on the go. alternatives: All along Truc Bach, and along Ngu Xa and Nguyen

Khac Hieu.

FOOd: Chao GaFamOuS gO-TO: Chao Ga Ba My, 47A Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem

Run by Grandma My since 1983, this place has become a regular stop for a lot of people. Grandma, who is in her 70s and is known to shout at her young staff at any opportunity, says: our chicken is fresh and high in quality. I dont buy cheap chickens, and the porridge is tasty, too dont you think so? It is tasty. Really tasty. The sticky rice, well cooked in the fatty and flavoursome chicken broth, gives the porridge

just the right texture. The chicken, either breast (30,000 per bowl) or thigh (35,000 per bowl), is perfectly seasoned and the pepper, chilli and spring onion really round it all off, as do the soft, fresh pieces of banh quay, or fried, Chinese-style bread.

SHOuld iT be FamOuS? Yes for the tasty chicken and long opening hours often until 3am. And for its adopted name shouting chao. alternatives: 37 Tran Nhan Tong, Quan An Ngon at 11 Tran Hung Dao or Nha Hang Ngon at 18 Phan Boi Chau.

FOOd: Mien LuonFamOuS gO-TO: Dong Thinh, 87 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem

Ive never eaten mien luon at my restaurant, so I dont know, says Dong Thinhs owner when asked why his restaurant is always packed. But I guess it fits the general taste of people and its cheap, he adds before admitting he actually prefers to eat pho or bun. The glass noodle soup here is exceptional. The eel is deep fried with egg and flour before

getting soaked in the broth to give it a soft and crunchy texture. If you order dry, stir-fried noodle with eel then its a good idea to ask for a small bowl of soup to add as you please the deep fried eel can be a bit dry without added water.

SHOuld iT be FamOuS? Yes, for its tasty eel over a variety of dishes. alternatives: 34 Le Dai Hanh or 40 Mai Hac De.


FamOuS gO-TO: Bun Dau Mam Tom, 3 Ngo Gach, Hoan Kiem

While owner Ms Tam claims there is no key ingredient drawing people here, if you pull up a stool and watch her prepare a portion of bun dau it wont

take long to figure out why this place is a favourite. The secret? With every serving, a ladle of the oil used to cook the tofu is poured into the shrimp paste. But if the smelly stuff isnt your preferred condiment, Ms. Tams

homemade tofu with bun is still enough to convince even the most ardent carnivore that the soybean-based dish is worth the time. Along with the

main, Ms Tam serves up lotus ice tea that tops it all off perfectly.

SHOuld iT be FamOuS? Yes. The tofu is done just right and the hygiene standards and portions are good. The extra small stools might prove

awkward for some. alternatives: Any of the establishments on Bun Dau Street Phat Loc in Hoan Kiem. Theres also a place at 6 Trieu Viet Vuong

that has been going strong for the last couple of decades, as has the tofu shop at 51 Hang Dieu.

FOOd: Pho GaFamOuS gO-TO: Pho 32, 32 Bat Dan, Hoan Kiem

one of the city's age-old street side pho eateries, Pho 32 is known mostly for its pho ga, but pho bo and pho xao also fill out the menu. The soup comes served like almost every other version in the city but at VND30,000, which includes three banh quay, this place is sure to keep your hunger locked up till lunch. Like Shreddies, but better. The key to

the taste is in the slightly under-seasoned broth. For us, not overdoing the flavouring at the serving stage makes it all the better when it comes to adding other ingredients. With three types of chilli, lime, sugar and fish sauce on the table, you can create your own tang.

SHOuld iT be FamOuS? Yes, for value. alternatives: Mai Anh, 32 Le Van Huu (pictured).

FOOd: SeafoodFamOuS gO-TO: Hai San Van oanh, 96A Tran Vu, Tay Ho

Its hard to determine which seafood joint along Tran Vu to stop at. The boys ushering you in are all as relentless to a man. But the famous vendor, Hai San Van oanh with its seafood place next-door, does stand out from the crowd. By 7pm the place is packed; the best stamp of endorsement a foodie could wish for. But come after 7pm and good luck in finding a comfortable seat. You could put the fame down to its location overlooking Truc Bach Lake but Van, one of the

two sisters who own the shop, suggests its because our seafood is reasonably priced and is fresh and tasty. Her sister oanh chimes in, were known to be really friendly, too.

SHOuld iT be FamOuS? Yes thanks to its fresh, high quality seafood, which, actually, is no more reasonable than anywhere else: from VND60,000 per kilo of mussels to VND1.8 million for a kilo of lobster. Seats are hard to come by. Also, at busy times, it pays to make sure your oysters are cooked thoroughly. Alternatives: 15 Hang Luoc, 15 Hang Thung and Kim Anh at 30 Phan Chu Trinh.


Serves five

ingredienTS: 500g pho, unsliced as sheets300g crab meat50g shiitake mushrooms50g perfume mushrooms (nam huong)100g celery stalk200g onion2 lemons 20g black sesame15g garlic1 bunch of ram herbsExtras: coriander (rau mui), chopped shallots, chili, fish sauce, vinegar and sugar

meTHOd: Clean the shiitake and perfume mushrooms in warm water, discard tails and cut into thin slices. Chop the celery into small pieces. Finely chop the onion.

Splash oil into to the pan, heat and maintain at a high heat while adding chopped shallots. When shallots become fragrant about 2025 seconds add the fish sauce, celery, onion, ram herbs and pepper powder.

Saut for two minutes before adding crabmeat, chilli and coriander. Mix thoroughly and take off the heat.

Cut the sheet of pho into 6x12cm pieces, add one spoon of crab mixture and roll.

Serve cool with black sesame on top. Eat with fish sauce, sugar and vinegar dip.

Serves four

ingredienTS:3 tbspoons honey2.5 tbspoons lemon juice1.5 tbspoons high quality, first-press fish sauce (nuoc mam)3 tbspoons + 1 spoon extra virgin olive oil1kg green papaya, peeled, quartered and seeded1 small carrot40g mint leaves40g kinh gioi leaves, a type of mint that can be replaced with basil80g Vietnamese sweet and dry beef jerky, loosened and pulled apart 60g pine nuts120g halloumi cheese

meTHOd:Shred the papaya and carrot into thin strands with a box grater. Mix in ice water for ten minutes to prevent browning and curl the

strands. Strain and keep in the fridge for up to two hours before use. Alternatively buy a pre-shredded mix from selected markets.

Mix the honey, lemon juice, fish sauce and three tablespoons of olive oil for dressing.

Cut the halloumi across into long strips 3mm thick. Mix with the extra spoon of olive oil and black pepper.

Toast the pine nuts in a hot frying pan until just brown and then remove to a cool surface they will brown more after, so be careful not to burn.

Warm the grill to medium heat and grill both sides of halloumi slices, or fry in a non-stick pan. Cut into squares.

Toss papayacarrot mix with dressing, herbs, jerky and cheese. Divide to four plates and sprinkle with pine nuts.

t nhiu ngi se noi rng ngi gc Ha Ni kha kho tnh - trch li c Pham Anh Tuyt ngi chu va cung la linh hn cua nha hang Anh

Tuyt (25 Ma My), ni t hao a va ang phuc vu nhng mon n Ha Ni ch thc.

Nu ban phuc vu ho mt mon n khng ung quy cach th ho se tha rng khng n con hn c noi.

Ngay nay, khi vic thng thc nhng mon n trn ng ph ang tr thanh trai nghim m thc c u tin hang u i vi ngi nc ngoai va ngi Ha Ni dng nh cung khng con thng xuyn dung ba tai nha, th c Tuyt, mt ngi gc Ha Ni, cho bit vic o vn khng phai la truyn thng t xa. C noi rng nhng quan hang n la san phm cua vic cai cach kinh t t nhng nm gia thp nin 80. o la thi gian khi nhng h kinh doanh nho thng chon cach u t kinh doanh vao lnh vc n ung.

Thi nin thiu cua ti la khoang t nhng nm 50 n nhng nm 60, luc o nhng mon n ng ph nh ngay nay c phuc vu tai nha, c chia se, nu ban mun n mt bat

ph, hay mt cc che hoc cai g o tng t, nhng ngi ganh hang rong vi quai ganh trn vai se sn long phuc vu ban tai nha

Vao thi im o, nhng quan hang va he ch danh cho nhng ngi lao ng chn tay. Thm ch cho n ngay nay khi ma nhng mon n va he cua Vit Nam tr nn thn thuc vi toan th gii, Tuyt vn co quan im ring cua mnh v vic n ung bn va he. V du: c cho rng lng thc n trong mt xut n la qua ln, nhng mon n Ha Ni ch thc nn c phuc vu trong mt a nho vi ve thanh tao tinh t hn.

Va thc n, c noi, nn nghing v s tinh tuy cua m thc trong v va cht hn la phn lng di dao ma th kch.

Phin Ban MiTheo li Tuyt, nhng mon n c phuc vu trn he ph ngay nay a khac xa nhng mon n truyn thng cua Ha Ni xa va a c pha trn rt nhiu bi nhng ngi dn di c t nhng tnh thanh khac. Nhng mon n c phuc vu ngay nay phn nhiu la san phm cua s kt hp vn hoa m thc toan min Bc.

Ngay nay trong mt xut bun riu, ban se thy tht bo, u phu va nhiu thanh phn khac - c Tuyt noi. Theo li ngi bp trng nay th mon bun riu ch nn co hng v chnh la cua ma thi va no chc chn la phai khac bit so vi bun thang. Nhng bi v hu ht c dn Ha Ni ngay nay la nhng ngi n t cac tnh thanh khac, va mi ni lai co mt cach nu khac nhau nn cac mon n c dn dn bin i tuy theo tng ngi nu.

By gi chng co my ngi nu c nhng mon n Ha Ni truyn thng, c noi, va thc t la cung chng co my ngi yu cu nhng tiu chun nh xa na.

Th nhng, bp trng va tac gia cun sach Culinary Vietnam, Daniel Hoyer lai cho rng nn m thc ng ph mi em lai gia tr thc t: o la nhng mon n Ha Ni xac thc bi v chung phan anh thc t nn m thc cua thanh ph nay ngay nay.

Cho du o la ming tht bo trong bat ph hay la cc bia hi lanh em lai nhng cuc tro chuyn trn chic gh nha, nn m thc thu cung co mua va cung a c uc thanh mt cach tinh t t lch s cua thanh

ph. Tt ca s thay i cua xa hi, s chuyn bin cua lch s u co vai tro cua mnh, la nhng manh ghep tao nn bc tranh m thc va mang ca s n gian ln s tinh t.

Mc du s di dn trong nc va s hp tac quc t trong sut nhiu th ky qua a m ca cho nn m thc Vit Nam on nhn nhng thanh phn va phng phap mi th kt qua cua no a c chng minh rng chung phu hp vi v giac ngi Vit.

Hay tng tng rng bt c th g ti y u c ngi Vit Nam la chon nhng cai tt nht, tinh hoa nht ri bin no thanh mt phn cua Vit Nam ng Hoyer noi.

S Thay ThNha s hoc ao Hung chia se: Nn m thc Vit t nhiu b anh hng t nc ngoai nh mt bat ph vi tht bo, banh ph, nc dung va rau thm. Theo ng Hung, phn tinh tuy hp dn nht cua mon nay co gc r su xa t mon M Quang ng cua ngi Hoa. Mon m nay co thanh phn chnh la tht tru va c t im thm bng nhng mon rau thm vi gia v ring, iu ma khin cho no co ve ngoai m a hn cung hng v nng hn trong nc dung.

Th nhng ngi Ha Ni vn rt cn thn trong vic n ung ng Hung giai thch khi nghin cu nhng mon n hng v m a mang phin ban mi nay. o la ly do tai sao ngi Ha Ni tao nn mon

Ph vi hng v nhe nhang tinh t hn bi hng rau mui va bac ha. Va thm vao o, tht tru c thay bng tht bo, y la mt v du v s anh hng cua nn m thc Phap

Tht bo la mt mt nguyn liu c s dung rt nhiu trong nhng mon n cua Ha Ni, nhng vao thi k trc, ngi Vit vn khng my khi n tht bo ca. ng Hung cho hay.

Nhng nha s hoc cung nhanh chong ch ra rng tht bo ch c s dung ph bin cac nha hang, quan xa, cung nh ph hu nh lun c thng thc bn ngoai. Theo nh cuc khao sat nho vi nhng ngi ban gia vao tui 80 cua ng nhng ngi ma ng goi la ngi Ha Ni ch thc - th nguyn liu chnh ma ho va gia nh nhng s dung nu nng trong nha la tht ln.

Vi banh m, trng chin va ca ph khp ni th s anh hng cua nn m thc t ngi Phap la rt d nhn ra. Nhng im khac bit ln nht so vi nn m thc cua ngi Hoa la ngi Vit thch thng thc rau sng. Trong khi ho thch chin xao hoc nu rau cu qua vi rt nhiu du m, th ngi Vit lai a chung n rau sng kem vi nc st hoc nc chm nhiu hn. iu nay cung ch ra rng nn m thc Vit Nam tt cho sc khoe hn nhiu so vi nhng mon n cua ngi Hoa.

Theo li ng Hung, thi gian trc, ngoai li ch v thc phm, tru bo con giup ch trong vic cay cy, trng trot, giup cho

nn nng nghip phat trin. Chnh v ly do o, chung c khuyn khch gi lai phuc vu cho vic tng gia san xut va tht ga a c thay th va gn nh tr thanh mon n chnh. o la ly do tai sao lai co ph ga

Va cung v ly do tng t, v nhng li ch cua lua gao, ngi dn Vit Nam quyt nh dung lua gao phuc vu cho nhng muc ch tt hn, hn la dung chung nu ru. Va ri bia hi lai xut hin.

Mc du bia khng phai la thc ung xa la vi ngi Ha Ni k t nhng nm 60 nhng hu ht moi ngi vn tranh xa khoi thc ung chua chua nay bi no la thoi quen cua ngi Phap. Theo ng Hung, nha may bia trn ng Hoang Hoa Tham c ngi Phap xy dng t nhng nm cui 1800, nhng mai n sau nm 1954, vi s giup k thut cua Tip Khc, nha may nay mi bt u khi sc vi loai bia hi mi co nng nhe hn a bt u tm c ung v cua ngi Ha Ni. Cho n gia nhng nm 60, bia hi a c phuc vu theo tng bom i khp va he thanh ph. Va nhng hang bia hi nhanh chong tr thanh tu im cho cac ngh s, tng lp tr thc va nhng ngi tm kim mt cach xa hi sau mt ngay lam vic vt va.

Cac nha s hoc thng ti mt ch, va cac nha vn th ti mt ch khac, nu ban tm kim ban be cua mnh th ch vic ti hang bia hi quen la se thy ho o, rt nhiu nhng cu chuyn v ai c sinh ra t ban bia hi ng Hung chia se.



Mon: Bun Chaa iM: Bun Cha c Kim, s 1 Hang Manh Hoan Kim

"Chung ti ni ting bi v la mt thng hiu gia truyn lu i va bi v cht lng bun cha cua chung ti khac bit", mt trong nhng ngi phuc vu tai ca hang bn tng nay chia se. Hin nay vi hn 40 nm hoat ng, ni nay ng nght khach hu nh mi ngay, c bit la vao ba tra. Co mt iu chc chn la quan a tn tai y lu ri. Va cht lng? Vng, rt nhiu phn n cha k la mt phn n lai to gp i so vi mt phn trung bnh cua bun cha ni khac - va kem theo o, cha la lt cua ho cung la mt li th canh tranh. Ngoai

ra, cac thanh phn nguyn liu hao hang noi chung la ging cac ni khac. Tuy nhin, cha bm, tht xng khoi va cha la lt cung nc chm se em n cam giac mn mn va khan khat. Se tuyt hn nhiu nu ho co tra a trong thc n lam du phn n o. Va d nhin khu phn ln hn co gia ring cua no - o la 50, 000 ng cho mi bat.

Ho co xng ang la iM ni ting nHt kHng? Co bi v tui tho lu i cua ho va nhng khach hang trung thanh vi ho, nhng co le khng nht thit la la chon hang u cho mon n ln phong cach phuc vu. S la chon khac: 99 Hang Ga, 36 L Vn Hu, 81 Lac Long Quang va c Ngoc trn ph Chn Cm.

Mon: Cha caa iM: Cha ca La Vong, 14 Cha Ca, Hoan KimMc du a im nay khng th t vao danh sach "quan n ng ph", nhng ch ring vic nm trn con ng ma tn c t theo theo mon n duy nht cua nha hang nay cung a u khin no tr thanh im thu hut khach hang vi moi tui va moi thanh phn. Cha ca a c lam va ban tai ngi nha c nay hn 100 nm. Ni nay a c quan ly bi bay th h cua mt gia nh va ho a phuc vu mon cha ca th la ran cho khach du

lch cung nh dn a phng ngay qua ngay.

Ho co xng ang la iM ni ting nHt kHng? Tui tho cua nha hang va mon n cht lng cua ho a noi ln iu o ri, nhng bi v y la mt im m thc ni bt cho cac nhom khach du lch, nn gia ang tng cao - 150,000 ng cho mt xut, va mt xut y cung kha nho na. S la chon khac: Cac nha hang khac trn ph Cha Ca. Mon n nay cung c phuc vu tai Madame Hin (nh anh trn), 15 Chn Cm, va tai Nha Hang Ngon 26 Trn Hng ao.

a iM: Ngo Tam Thng, Hang Bng, Hoan Kim

Con ngo nho nay la ni danh cho nem chua ran. Ch cn hoi bt k ngi tre tui nao se bit. Co tt ca chn ca hang y va hu ht ho kha ging nhau, nhng s 40 (Thanh Sn) c cho la ni ting nht. Tai sao? Ban th oan xem, ho chnh la nhng ngi tao nn cn st nem chua ran. "Nem chua va nem chua nng a c nhiu ni ban t lu ri," mt trong nhng ngi chu chia se vi chung ti trong khi soc me khoai ty chin trong r trc khi bay ra chic a lot la chui i kem vi xuc xch nng. "Nhng chung ti a la ngi u tin ran nem chua v ran se nhanh hn nng".

Ho co xng ang la iM ni ting nHt kHng? Trn thc t cac nem chua tai cac ca hang nay u n t cung mt nha cung cp, v vy khng co g qua c bit v no. Nhng ngi chu tim cho rng ho c chu y nhiu hn hay khng la nh khoai ty chin bi v ho chin khoai hai ln, thm vao v c trng

cua b da na. S la chon khac: Hang nem chua nng trong ngo u Triu.


Mon n: Banh cuna iM: 14 Hang Ga, Hoan Kim

"Banh cua chung ti rt thm ngon do s dung phn tht ngon nht va cac nguyn liu ti nht, gia ca cung thp na", ng chu ky cu cua ca hang phuc vu mon banh nhn tht thm ngon nay cho bit. Khoang thi gian 7:00-10:00 va 13:00-17:00 la khoang thi gian bn rn nht cua quan, ho a on tip nhiu khach hang thn thit cua mnh trong nhiu nm tri: "Ti khng bao gi i bt c ni nao khac, ti yu v hanh kh gion tan y", anh Phng, 23 tui, chia se. i vi chung ti, mc du no co

s tinh t va thanh mat rt c trng cho mua he gn ging nh banh kp, nhng im ni bt la nc chm vi v m a su lng, ni hp banh bc khoi ngao ngat va ngot ngao, tht kho tng tng banh cun ma khng co iu o.

Ho co xng ang la iM ni ting nHt kHng? Co im 10 cho nc chm va banh, thm na la im cng cho giong ch huy khan khan cua ngi chu. Ca hang nay a thanh cng n ni ho m mt ca hang th hai trn ng L Vn Hu. Ba th h trong cung mt gia nh ang quan ly ca hai ca hang. S la chon khac: Banh Cun Phu Ly, 39 ao Duy T.

Mon: Min lna iM: ng Thnh, 87 Hang iu, Hoan Kim

"Ti cha bao gi n min ln tai nha hang mnh, nn khng bit" - ng ng Thnh, ngi chu tra li khi c hoi tai sao nha hang cua ng la lun lun ng khach. "Nhng ti oan no phu hp vi khu v cua moi ngi va gia lai re", ng cho bit thm trc khi tha nhn ng ch thch n ph hoc bun. Mon min ln y rt c bit. Ln c chin vi trng va bt m

trc khi c ngm trong nc dung lam no mm va gion. Mt y tng khng ti la khi n m xao kh vi ln nn yu cu thm mt bat sup nho v mon ln xao co th hi kh nu khng co sup hoc nc i kem.

Ho co xng ang la iM ni ting nHt kHng? Co, im thng cho mon tht ln ngon tuyt, t o ho lai ch bin nhng mon n trn ca tuyt vi khac. S la chon khac: 34 L ai Hanh hoc 40 Mai Hc

a iM: Ngoc Hiu, 22 Hoa Ma, Hai Ba Trng

y la mt mon n rt ph bin va hi kh theo mt ngha nao o, nhng khi noi ti mon bt-tt kiu Vit truyn thng th khac, no tr nn nhe nhang tinh

t hn, va nha hang Ngoc Hiu lun la cu tra li u tin cho moi cu hoi. Vi mc gia 100,000 ng cho mt xut thng thng th chc hn cht lng y phai kha n. Mon n c phuc vu trn mt a gang nong vi tht bo thai lat, xu mai, hai qua trng, khoai ty. i kem theo la banh m va da chut trn ring. Ban co th kep tht vao banh m va t lam cho mnh mt chic banh kep

ngon lanh hoc n gian la xe nho banh m va chm vi nc st trong mon bt tt. Mon nay se hoan hao nu ban la tn cua mon trng long ao. Va phn

tht bo quan trong nht th hi cng mt chut, nhng v rt ngon.

Ho co xng ang la im ni ting nht khng? Co le bt du i mt chut th tt hn. Ni nay d nhin xng ang vi s ni ting cua no, nhng vi mt s ngi th mon nay co ve khng tt cho da day lm. S la chon khac: Hoang

Long, 68 Hoa Ma


a iM: Bun u mm tm, 3 Ngo Gach, Hoan Kim

Mc du ngi chu ca hang c Tm t cho rng y chng co g c bit thu hut khach hang, nhng nu ban ngi xung va xem c

y chun b nhng xut bun u th se khng mt nhiu thi gian tm ra ly do tai sao ni nay c yu thch n th. Nhng b mt?

Vi mi xut bun u mm tm, c y cho thm mt vai giot du ran u vao bat mm tm. K ca nu ban khng thch mui v cua mm tm, nhng ming u phu ran thm lng vn c lam tai nha c

Tm cung vi ming bun thanh mat vn u sc thuyt phuc, ngay ca nhng tn cua tht nng cung cho rng mon nay xng ang tn

thi gian thng thc. Cung vi mon chnh, c Tm cung phuc vu tra a hng sen khin cho ba n thm hoan hao.

Ho co xng ang la iM ni ting nHt kHng? Co. u phu y c ran va u chn, ch bin ung tiu chun v sinh va co

hng v ngon tuyt. S la chon khac: nhng ganh bun u rong trong ngo Pht Lc -Hoan Kim. Ngoai ra s 6 Triu Vit Vng a ni ting t

vai thp k tr lai y, s 51 Hang iu cung ni ting khng kem.

Mon: Ph ga a iM: Ph 32, s 32 Bat an, Hoan Kim

La mt trong nhng quan ph lu i nht trong thanh ph, Ph 32 c bit n chu yu la v mon ph ga, nhng tht ra ph bo va ph xao cung co y. Ph y c phuc vu nh hu ht cac quan khac trong thanh ph nhng vi gia 30.000 ng vi ba cai quy, chc chn se gi cho ban no bung ti ba tra. Ging nh shreddies (mon banh ngu cc n sang cua Anh) vy, nhng

tuyt hn nhiu. B quyt cua hng v la nc dung. i vi chung ti ma noi th vic khng lam dung kiu "dch vu tn rng" chnh la iu em lai s khac bit trong khi cac thanh phn cua ph cung ging nh cac ni khac. Vi ba loai t, chanh, ng va nc mm trn ban, ban co th t tao phong cach cua ring ban.

Ho co

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The Word Hanoi July 2011