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2 THINK Spring Special Supplement to The Gazette | March 2013

BATHROOMAdd value and comfortto your homeREDUXBY JOSEPH PUBILLONES

Nothing embodies a senseof luxury more than nicely ap-pointed bathrooms and powderrooms. This is one of the bestimprovements that can be doneto any home, townhouse or con-dominium, since it can add bothperceived and actual value.

Since the times of ancientRome, baths have been a greatplace for cleanliness and for es-tablishing a connection amongbody, mind and spirit. Bathswere a refuge for one to go andthink clearly and even, in somecultures, to negotiate the finerpoints of a business deal. Inour world today, bathrooms aremore private, but, nonetheless,just as important.

Today’s bathrooms are notjust functional rooms, but alsoan extension of one’s livingspace. Designs for these spaceshave gone in many directions,and can include saunas, hottubs, massage tables and evenexercise areas. Gone are manyof the materials once used inbathrooms—ceramic tile; tra-ditional fixtures; and tones ofmint green, cherry pink and skyblue (unless you are involvedin a historical restoration). Re-placements feature warmer tiles,slates and marbles in a varietyof incredible colors. Some havetextures; others are cut with alaser for intricate designs. Stonesare mixed with glass and mir-rors, and tiles and fixtures thatglow in the dark are available.

Some newer bathrooms rivalthe size of their en suite bed-rooms. Larger spaces are nowin favor over the typical 5-by-7-foot bathrooms of yesteryear.Many homeowners are willingto eliminate a spare room to usethe extra square footage in their

new bathroom. Lounging areasare de rigueur, and this meansspace for a chaise or a pair ofclub chairs and an ottoman.

Traditional fixtures, suchas toilets and tubs, are avail-able to fit in with most con-ventional, architectural styles.Some are also available in sleekversions that look as if theyhave been designed by aero-nautical engineers. Materialsfor fixtures have evolved to in-clude the traditional porcelainsand enameled irons, as well asnewer materials, such as resinsand polyesters, that can eas-ily be molded into any shapeand have the same sheen as ear-lier models.

Custom cabinetmakers canmake bathroom furniture in anystyle to fit your decor and life-style. The one caveat is to usematerials that are not affected bydirect contact with water or hu-midity. Today’s styles range fromfloating, wall-mounted cabinetryto furniture-like pieces that com-pletely conceal the fixtures.

The whirlpool tub wasthe must-have 10 or 20 yearsago. Today, high-end plumb-ing fixtures are all the rage.Most whirlpool tubs are beingremoved for lack of use andare being replaced with largershowers that feature multiplemassage sprays, rain shower-heads and spa-like steam op-tions. These features, oncefound only at therapeutic clin-ics and spas, now are common-place as people search for anti-dotes to their hectic lives.

Joseph Pubillones’ weeklycolumn, “The Art of Design,” isavailable at creators.com.

-Creators.comCREATORS.COM

A new bathroom can add both perceived and actual value to a home.

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THINK Spring 3March 2013 | Special Supplement to The Gazette

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Are you thinking about installinga fence in your backyard? There area number of fence types to choosefrom today.

When choosing which to install, con-sider what the main reason is for thefence. Is it for enclosing a pool or is it forprivacy? Is it for aesthetics or for simplykeeping the children or pets in the back-

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BY ANICA WONG

There were many things that Erin Lang Norrisand her husband were looking forward to when theymoved out of an apartment and into their own housein south-central Wisconsin. Top on that list was hav-ing a yard for building big fires to enjoy during thesummer and winter months. But the property theypurchased didn’t have a fire pit, so Lang Norris hadto take things into her own hands, literally.

“I don’t know how many bottles of ibuprofen I wentthrough,” she said, noting that building the 5-foot-wide fire pit was a feat of will and physical strength.

Lang Norris couldn’t afford a landscape designer,

so she went to the first place most people do to getmore information on any do-it-yourself project: theInternet. She was sorely disappointed at the lack ofconcise and helpful material, and instead decided togive it a go herself.

The first step was mapping out the space for herfire pit. It ended up having a 5-foot diameter, a typi-cal size, said Tim Lindgren, president of LindgrenLandscape & Irrigation; but, you need a lot morespace than that to accommodate the structure.

“You’ll have the fire pit itself—5-foot outside diam-eter—and then you have 3 feet of seating all around it.All of a sudden you have an 11-foot space to fit a roundfire pit,” calculated Lindgren. This size was perfect for

Lang Norris’ 2-acre plot; the fire pit didn’t get lost inthe area, but also wasn’t overwhelming.

Lang Norris’ biggest challenge, she said, was de-ciding what kind of stone she should use. She wantedsomething durable enough for high temperatures,which can foster brush fires, and cold Wisconsin win-ters. After pricing options at the local stone yard, shepicked sandstone and then layered the inside of thepit with firebrick bought from the hardware store.

Lindgren suggested that any fire pit be made withmasonry blocks veneered with bricks, fake stones orreal stones on the outside. This gives the pit the strongstructure it needs to withstand the heat of a fire andleaves an aesthetically pleasing view for the homeowner.

FIRE PITS Enjoy the outdoorswith a little warmth

CREATORS.COM PHOTO COURTESY OF ERIN LANG NORRIS

Building your own fire pit can require a large space, heavy lifting and a lot of painkillers.


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Once the size is sketched out and thestone bought, the heavy lifting and dig-ging begins; this is where the painkillerscome in handy. How deep you dig thefoundation will depend on the type ofsoil. Lindgren, based in Colorado, has toaccommodate expansive soils that tendto shift structures. The foundation is thearea of the ground that the stone cylinderwill sit on. After this area is dug out, ce-ment is poured in and rebar stuck intothe cement to add stability and strength.

Lang Norris spent many hourschiseling pieces of stone to fit into thepuzzle of the expansive fire pit walls.She carefully placed each piece exactlywhere she wanted it, which oftentimesrequired her to shift the stones fromone space to another, trying to get allof the pieces just right. She then builta top cap of thicker stones that went allthe way around the cylinder, giving thestructure a finished look.

While Lang Norris’ fire pit is woodburning, Lindgren gets many requestsfor gas fire pits. In these cases, his com-pany would install a valve that runsthrough the exterior of the wall, into thebottom of the pit and capped by a burnersystem. Lava rocks or glass would cover

the burner system but allow the flamesto come up.

“The pros to doing a wood-burningfire pit is a real flame, the smell andcrackling of a campfire,” Lindgren said.A gas pit is easy to manage and maintain.Lindgren even installed a fire pit that theowner can light using an iPad app.

Lindgren suggested that homeown-ers check the local fire codes before theystart making decisions on the type of firepit they want. Some areas don’t allowburning firewood in city limits, and ifthere is a gas line involved, permits mustalso be in hand. Messing around with agas line is no simple undertaking, Lind-gren said.

All in all, Lang Norris spent about$450 on her fire pit, while Lindgren’scompany, which primarily caters tohigh-end residential locations, chargesbetween $3,500 and $4,500 for a fire pit.Both options are viable, and in the end,people are going to gather around thefinished project.

“In Colorado, we are trying to takeadvantage of the outdoor living. Whatcan we put outside that will prolong ourseason?” Lindgren asked. Lang Norrisknows just the thing.

-Creators.com

CREATORS.COM PHOTO COURTESY OF GLASS PHOTOGRAPHY

Whether building your own or bringing in a professional, a fire pit allows you to relax and enjoythe outdoor space.


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As more home gardeners seek to expand their harvests—having enjoyed thedelicious freshness of their herbs and vegetables and saved a bundle in grocerymoney—there’s a growing trend for planting fruit trees, as well. The tartness offreshly picked limes, the sweetness of oranges and peaches, the excitement ofkids who get to pluck the fruit from the trees—the allure is strong for new fruittree and bush plantings.

There’s a vast list of expected and surprising fruits that can be grown in a homegarden: apples, apricots, blueberries, cherries, figs, jujubes, lemons, limes, mul-berries, nectarines, oranges, peaches, pears, persimmons, plums, pomegranatesand quinces. Local nurseries or home-supply stores will stock popular, hardy fruit

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trees and specialty ones, such as variations of Asian fruittrees, can be ordered online.

Horticulturists work magic with fruit fusions, such aspluots (plum-apricot hybrids) and similar plumcots andapriplums, resulting in new gourmet flavors recognizedby theUnited StatesDepartment of Agriculture (USDA).

First: ChillBefore selecting any fruit trees online, though, it’s

important to know which fruit trees are best for yourregion. “The possibilities vary dramatically dependingon where you are,” said Ellen Evans, sales clerk at BayLaurel Nursery, a top source for ordering bare-rootfruit trees for planting. “You have to know how many‘chill hours’ your region gets, since that’s an importantfactor for each fruit tree.”

“Chill hours” is the term for how many hours thetemperature reaches below 45 F; many fruit trees needexposure to these chilly temperatures. “If you pick atree that doesn’t get enough chill hours, you won’t getfruit,” said Evans.

Evans suggested calling a local nursery or state agri-cultural office for the current chill hours they measure.Or, check the interactive USDA Plant Hardiness ZoneMap at usda.gov; plug in your ZIP code, and it tells you

which zone you live in. The Bay Laurel Nursery websitelists the number of chill hours needed by each varietyof fruit tree, as well as lists low-chill fruit trees, to helpidentify which trees would thrive in your yard.

How to Plant Fruit TreesBay Laurel Nursery suggests the following steps:• Dig a hole. In a location that gets the amount of

sun prescribed on the fruit tree label, dig a hole that iswide enough for the roots of the tree so that none ofthem bend. A wider hole is ideal to give roots room toextend and grow. For depth, again, follow the label di-rections, being sure that all roots will be covered. Then,use a shovel to loosen the soil around the outside edgesof the hole to allow roots to continue to grow.

• Drive in a stake. If the chosen tree requires asturdy stake, “use at least a 5- or 6-foot garden stakehammed about 2 feet into the bottom of the hole, alittle off center on the southern side, if possible,” saidBay Laurel Nursery. Driving in a stake after the tree hasbeen planted can damage roots.

• Make a soil mound. Use the soil dug for the holeto create a mound a few inches high in the center of thehole and pat it down gently.

• Place the tree. Carefully place the loose-roots

tree in the hole, centered on the mound, and spread theroots gently. “The tree has a graft union (sometimescalled a bud union) visible where the root stock is graft-ed to the trunk. This should be placed slightly above theexisting ground level. It is better to plant a little highthan low, since trees often settle,” said the nursery.

• Fill the hole with soil. Check with a local gardencenter for the recommended nutrients and organic ad-ditives for your soil’s pH level and nutrient needs, andadd as instructed. Add this amended soil into the hole,covering over just the roots. Gently pat down the soiland water to help the soil settle around the roots. Con-tinue adding layers of soil and gently watering to helpsettle and secure the tree, until the soil reaches originalground level.

• Build a circle. Use any leftover soil to build araised circle around the tree, about 4 feet in diameter, tokeep in water. “Placing organic material, such as leaves,mulch or bark, inside the circle can help protect thetree’s roots and help water retention. Make sure thatyou keep any mulch away from the trunk of the tree,”said Evans. Mulch that is in contact with the trunk cancreate harmful rot or disease to the tree, lessening oreliminating the fruit harvest.

-Creators.com

THERE’S A VAST LIST OF EXPECTED AND SURPRISING FRUITS THAT CAN BE GROWN IN A HOME GARDEN:APPLES, APRICOTS, BLUEBERRIES, CHERRIES, FIGS, JUJUBES, LEMONS, LIMES, MULBERRIES, NECTARINES, ORANGES,

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BY SHARON NAYLOR

“Fertile soil is the foundation to any garden proj-ect,” according to the garden experts on Lowe’s web-site. “Vegetable gardens and planting beds need rich,loose, drainable soil to ensure root growth and abun-dant crops … (Some) plants only have a few monthsto bloom and produce. Good soil allows roots toquickly develop and spread, which in turn increasesthe water and nutrient intake necessary for healthyand productive plants.”

Tilling is a popular way to loosen compacted soilin an existing bed. The grinding and blending motionof a rototiller or one’s own manual tilling transformsstale and clumpy soil into looser, finer soil moreready for planting.

Marie Iannotti, the About.com guide to garden-ing, said that tilling has been recommended for clear-ing a new garden bed for years. But there is somecontroversy among gardening experts who claim thattilling, and overtilling, can damage the soil quality.Some of the top garden blogs, such as Veggie Gar-dening Tips, warn against tilling too often, becauseit can break up and kill beneficial fungus in the soil.

Iannotti, too, said that tilling may turn up buriedweed seeds that can sprout with exposure to the sun.

While tilling may have potential downsides, if youwish to prepare your garden soil by tilling, here aresome smart tips to help you do so more efficientlyand successfully for the health and productivity ofthe garden.

1. Test the soil for sufficient softness before till-ing. For the best results, soil should be at a tempera-ture of about 60 F before tilling, and it must also bedry enough. If a handful of soil crumbles when yousqueeze it, that’s the ideal texture.

2. Mark the area where you will be tilling the soil.Stakes in all corners will help you visualize the plot.Remove all rocks and debris from the garden bedbefore tilling; rocks can damage the tiller’s blades.

3. Set your tiller at a depth of 6 to 8 inches, andmake only one pass over each row, moving slowlyto allow the machine to do the work fully and com-pletely. Excessive tilling will actually compact the soilrather than break it up. The result of overtilling iscalled hardpan, a layer of compacted soil just belowthe layer of soil that is loosened. Try to avoid killingtoo many beneficial earthworms in the soil, as well.

4. After tilling, turn the machine off and clean allthe tines (blades) thoroughly to prolong the life ofthe tiller.

5. When you are done tilling, take a sample of thesoil to a local garden center to have it tested for nutri-ent and pH needs so that you can apply any need-ed additives or organic materials to prepare it for ahealthy and productive garden bed.

If you are using an electric tiller, always be surethe cord is safely out of the way of the blades to avoidaccident or injury. If you’re using a powerful fuel til-ler, use extreme caution and follow all manufacturersafety rules, including wearing protective footwearand eyewear. If hand-tilling the soil, wear thick pro-tective gloves and use rubber-handled tools for com-fort and to prevent blisters.

Safety always comes first when working in the gar-den, and part of safety is reading all of the instruc-tions for the owned or rented tilling machine, work-ing slowly and with full attention, and being patient ifthe soil is too wet at a lower depth for proper tilling.A few days’ wait is worth the better results.

-Creators.com

CREATORS.COM PHOTO COURTESY OF INFORMED FARMERS

Tilled soil can create more aerated, ready-to-plant beds.

5 tips for tillingthe way to good soilJUST TILLIN’


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A great looking yard takes lots of timeand effort. It also can take a lot of moneyand water. To save cash and the environ-ment, homeowners may want to considerdrought-friendly landscaping.

“I strongly suggest using the phrase‘drought tolerance’ over ‘drought resis-tance,’” said Jay Popko, a research as-sociate at the University of Massachu-setts’ Stockbridge School of Agriculture.“Drought conditions are not somethingthat can be overcome completely.”

Dollars and centsDrought-friendly landscaping—often

called zeroscaping because it’s aboutreducing water use—also can cut yourwater bill.

Landscape architect Chad Kennedysaid savings will be dependent on localwater costs and the size of the landscape.“A retrofit from a traditional lawn tolow-water-use shrubs with an efficientsystem and smart controller can reducewater use by up to 75 percent,” he said.

“In Denver, the average ... yard of2,500 square feet can save about $500per year in water savings,” estimatedDenis McCausland of Green MountainLandscape and Sprinkler.

He said you also can expect to savemaintenance time, including mowinggrass, weeding and fertilizing, as well asnot having to do maintenance on your ir-rigation system as often.

CREATORS.COM PHOTO COURTESY OF KURT BLAND

‘Hydrozoning’ clusters plants that have similar water requirements together.See DROUGHT on page 10

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Planet, the Professional LandcareNetwork, which is the national associa-tion of landscape professionals, recom-mends getting an irrigation audit.

“An irrigation system may need re-pair or adjustment, and a professionalcan also check for water distribution uni-formity and make sure irrigation systemsare installed and maintained properly,”said Planet member Kurt Bland of BlandLandscaping.

Plant smartly“Drought-tolerant landscapes do

not have to be boring, and with properplant selection, they can be as interest-ing as any other landscape,” said Bland,explaining that most of the United Stateshas a “mesic climate” rather than a “xericclimate,” which means drought comes incycles instead of being constantly present.

“‘Drought-friendly’ doesn’t necessarilymean concrete, rock and no plants,” saidKennedy, who suggested choosing plantswith low water requirements. “It is moreabout wise use and application of waterand the correct choice of plant species.”

He advised choosing plants that growwithin the space available. “Plants thatget too large for the space in which theyare planted require more resources—water, etc.—than a smaller plant,” saidKennedy, who also recommended spac-ing plants far apart because the plantswill “compete less for available water.”

Planet suggests conserving water by“hydrozoning,” which clusters plantsthat have similar water requirements to-gether, noting that plant water require-ments typically range from very low tolow to medium.

Another drought-friendly idea is tolimit grass in your landscaping.

“Turf grass uses most of the water in alandscape,” Kennedy said. “The less lawnto water, the more water can be saved.”

Don’t forget to use 2 to 3 inches oforganic or inert mulch.

“These mulches keep the soil under-neath moist by minimizing evaporation... and minimizing the heat of the soil,”Kennedy said. “An organic mulch canactually hold on to moisture and will addnutrients to the soil.”

What to avoidWhen zeroscaping, there are also

things to avoid.For example, don’t use too much

rock. “This can cause heat buildup,”McCausland said. “Instead, combinerock with wood mulches and/or low-wa-ter-use lawn grass.”

Although sloped landscape might bepretty, it can be wasteful. “The more upsand downs you have in a landscape, themore water runs away from the plantsand to the surrounding gutters or stormdrains,” said Kennedy. “If you needheight in the landscape, do it with boul-ders, walls and vegetation rather thansloped landscape.”

Avoid watering on windy days to re-duce evaporation, according to Planet,and be careful not to overwater plants,which can damage them.

When to waterMaximize your water use by irrigating

before sunrise.“By irrigating during the coolest time

of the day, you avoid excessive evapora-tion of the valuable water being appliedand the surface will dry up as the suncomes up,” Kennedy said. “Avoid irrigat-ing just after sundown, as you may causethe soil surface to be wet for too long, al-lowing fungus and molds to grow.”

Planet advised watering a gardenwith rainwater stored in rain barrels. Bemindful that good watering helps plantsand trees get established.

“Water new plantings throughoutthe first year,” Popko said. “Proper es-tablishment relies on making sure newplantings adjust to their new surround-ings and develop healthy root systems.On larger trees, watering may be neededfor more than the first year.”

Drought ResourcesDuring planning, know your area’s

drought conditions, soil types, plant har-diness and ideal planting schedules. Thefollowing websites are great resources:planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/PHZM-Web, drought.unl.edu and landcarenet-work.org/index.cfm.

-Creators.com

DROUGHT from page 9 “DROUGHT-TOLERANTLANDSCAPES

DO NOT HAVE TO BE BORING,AND WITH PROPER PLANTSELECTION, THEY CAN BEAS INTERESTING AS ANY

OTHER LANDSCAPE.”


They won’t rust and are virtually mainte-nance-free. In addition, paint chipping orpeeling is not a concern because of howthe paint color is applied to the fencing.

Aluminum fences are ideal for enclos-ing pools and for keeping in pets. Theycome in numerous styles and designs;they are a bit pricey, however, so youmay spend a little more money than an-other fence type.

Wrought iron fencesThese days, new wrought iron fences

are often used to enclose pools. They’realso more commonly found encompass-ing yards of high-end residential proper-ties. While providing a classic and so-phisticated look, wrought iron fences areconsidered heavy-duty; consequently,they are ideal for security reasons.

Wrought iron fences are expensiveand they can rust over time. As a result,

they need periodic maintenance to keepthem looking like new.

Vinyl fencesVinyl fences are the most common

type installed today. They can provideboth security and privacy, and they comein various sizes, styles and colors. Oftenused today for enclosing pools, patios andbackyards, they are maintenance-free.

A vinyl fence will not weather, rustor fade, though it can crack if hit hard—particularly if it is hit hard in colderweather. Vinyl fencing is also the mosteconomical fencing material, relative toaluminum and wrought iron.

Remember, before buying and in-stalling a new fence, first make sure youknow the main purpose of the fence.After you’ve come to a conclusion onits main purpose, you can then betterchoose the appropriate fence to install.

-Creators.com

FENCES from page 3

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