THIS GUIDE IS DEDICATED TO CLIFF HUGES · 7 z Turning Rock Sunny Side 34 Secret Socks 45 Farmer Brown ... • Double big thanks to Werner Illenberger, Trefor Loyd & the MCSA doers

2 Updated 20/07/2017 © Derek Marshall

THIS GUIDE IS DEDICATED TO CLIFF HUGES

A Godly mountain man, who is living inspiration & example to us all.

LEGAL NOTE: All climbing is very dangerous & always at your own risk. Nobody is forcing you to climb. You choose to climb,

so choose to go home before the risks become too high. Remember even small injuries can take 6 weeks to heal. No

responsibility for inaccurate or incomplete information will be accepted by the scribe or Mountain Club of South Africa. The

landowners accept no liability at all. Climbers take full responsibility for themselves at all times. Fixed protection will become

unreliable, loose rock is common, solid rock becomes loose & RD writers make up most of the information anyway. This RD is

only a guide & is no substitute for experience, training, common sense & a touch of caution. So you are on your own…take

care!

CONTENTS

Cliff Huges Werner Illengerger

Page Page Page Page

7 l Turning Rock 21 Sunny Side 34 Secret Socks 45 Farmer Brown

10 l Heel & Heel 23 Little Red Hen 36 l Golden Era Sector 46 Kinslay

12 Battle face 25 l Hidden Boulder 38 Back in the Days 46 Doomslay

14 5 Minute Chill-Out 26 Inyati 41 Dawn Rocks 47 Taragon

15 l Pixies Sector 28 l Goose Rock 42 Vinland

17 l Twinkle Toes Wall 30 l Frog 43 Wish Master

19 Kestrel Buttress 32 l Falcon Rock 44 The Wonderer


LEGAL NOTE: All climbing is very dangerous & always at your own risk. Nobody is forcing you to climb. You

choose to climb, so choose to go home before the risks become too high. Remember even small injuries can take

6 weeks to heal. No responsibility for inaccurate or incomplete information will be accepted by the scribe or any other body. The

landowners accept no liability at all. Climbers take full responsibility for themselves at all times. Fixed protection will become

unreliable, loose rock is common, solid rock becomes loose & RD writers make up most of the information, with a beer, at the

computer. This RD is only a guide & is no substitute for experience, training, common sense & a touch of caution. So you are on

your own…take care!

NOTE FROM THE SCRIBE: It took consistent effort, time, work & organization to get this guide ready for your pleasure...for

free! Thus please respect that all the information & photographs are strictly Copy Righted. Nobody “has” a lawyer, normally a

lawyer has us…by the short & curlies. But I do know this lawyer, he’s a bit of a dick, but apparently he normally wins. Friends,

let’s not get to see how much of a dick he really is. You are more than welcome to print out, e-mail or link to a web page this

guide in its unchanged format, with logos & all information intact.

Many routes have been added or recorded for the first time in the last 10 years. Much detail was missing from the resources

publically available. This guide is an attempt to consolidate this info & available to everyone. As this is a web based guide it can

30 Coombs Gorge 37 EL urban crags & boulders Toorberg Swartberg

1 Lady's Slipper Amatolas 38 Yellowsands & Inkwenkwezi 44 Graff-Reinet 49 Towerkop

2 Van Stadens 31 Fort Fordyce 39 Lalapanzi 45 Compassberg 50 Oudtshoorn

3 PE urban crags & boulders 32 Hogsback 40 Morgan Bay Transkei 51 Gamkaskloof Bouldering

4 Sleepy Hollow 33 Stutterheim 41 Bola 46 Hole in the Wall

5 Elands River Langkloof Winterberg 47 Hill of Execution

6 Kirkwood 19 Nguniland 42 Mary & Martha 48 Port St Johns

7 Cape St Francis 20 Kouga Wildernes 43 Hangklip

Groot Winterhoek 21 Uniondale Pass

8 Tygerhoek Garden Route

9 Naga's Kloof 22 Titzikama

10 Eagle Gorge 23 Groot Rivier

11 Momentum Gorge 24 Plett Crags

12 Pinnacle Gorge East London

13 Cockscomb 34 NSA

14 Grootbos & Kleinbos 35 Windmill Hole

15 Nivera 36 Buffalo River

Baviaans

16 Grips

17 Kudu Kaya

18 Waterkloof

Grahamstown

25 Alicedale

26 Howieson's Poort

27 Moodies

28 Bouldering

29 Thornkloof

Port Elizabeth

EASTERN CAPE CLIMBING VENUES

1

N2

Ladismith

Port Elizabeth

HankeyPatensie

SteytlervilleWillowmore

Uniondale

Plettenberg Bay

Oudtshoorn

Graff-Reinet

Fort Beaufort

Grahamstown

Alicedale

QueenstownTarkastud

Middelburg

CradockNieu Bathesda

Stutterheim

Aliwal North

Jeffreys Bay

East London

Port St Johns

Coffee Bay

Mthatha

King Williams Town

Hogsback

Uitenhage

N2

N2

R329

N10

N9

R75

R322

R67

R62

R63

R62

23

4

15

1617

18

6

7

192021

2223

24

8-14

49

46

5

4748

5051

25 29

28

30

31

32

38

39

40

41

42

44

45

34-37

26-27

33

43

N6

N2

More route guides can be found on

easterncaperockclimbing.co.za


be considered a work in progress. It is easy to change. So please send missing details, corrections, additions &

adjustments to [email protected] . All information will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks to the following people:

• Keith James for historical details & answering numerous questions.

• John Alexander for the latest wave of corrections & details.

• Andrew Forsyth for the meticulous notes & details recorded in his journal.

• Mike McKechine & Rob Mac Geoghegan for lots of details & corrections concerning

routes climbed in 1987.

• Mark Berry for taking the time to give route information & general historical snippets.

• Double big thanks to Werner Illenberger, Trefor Loyd & the MCSA doers for the big work

in fixing the path & keeping the alien veg under control.

DIRECTIONS: Lady’s Slipper is situated 27km out of Port Elizabeth just off the N2 towards

Cape Town. On the N2 take the van Stadens Pass / Uitenhage off ramp. Travel in the

direction of Uitenhage for about 5km. 100m after the road crosses a railway line; turn

sharply L onto a dirt road. About 400m along this road on the RH side is a sign for the

MCSA gate & parking. Entrance to members is free, but you may be required to show your

membership card. Non-members are required to pay for a permit at Falcon Rock (at the

bar). This costs about R20 per person. Vehicles are reasonably safe.

WALK IN: It depends where you are going, but anywhere high on the hill will take 45

minutes & some effort. Please stay on the path.

ACCESS: The Lady’s Slipper is owned by the MCSA Eastern Province Section. Entrance

to members is free, but you may be required to show your membership card. Non-

members are required to pay for a permit at Falcon Rock (at the bar). This costs about R20

per person.

HISTORY: The MCSA Eastern Province Section bought the Lady’s Slipper on the 30 June

1964. There has been climbing on Lady’s Slipper since the 1950s, but unfortunately much

of the history is un-recorded or sitting in private records. Basically there were a few waves of development. Bill Clarke, Mike

Streeter & Geoff Streeter opened G Face & G Crack in 1953. They added a few routes in the 60’s. From the early 80’s Andrew

Forsyth, Mike McKechine, Rob Mac Geoghegan, Clee Roy & Wane Klassen a host of others started putting up lines. There was

even a visit by Andy de Klerk in 1983. Mike Roberts, John Alexander, Mark Berry & Uwe Haller stiffened the grade in the late

80’s & early 90’s. Mike Roberts’ route, Pumping into the Blue, may be the first full sport line in South Africa. Derek Marshall,

Allen Luck & Craig Bester realized the unclaimed potential in the early 2000s. This led to some industrial sending sprees &

some brand new crags. Morne van der Mescht & Martin Renz pushed the development of the hard sport sectors, Hidden

Boulder & Falcon Rock. Wild Child (32), the hardest route on the Slipper was opened by Juan-dray Marshall when he was only

15. New routes are still being opened.

TIME & WEATHER: There are numerous crags with aspects to suit any day. On hot days Hidden Boulder is recommended.

Can be very cold in winter or when the wind is blowing.

Good route at this crag.

Good route in the area.

Classic route in this province.

No star Reasonable to bollocks.

lBolted sport route

lProject / In progress

T Trad route, natural gear

6B Number of bolts

C Chains or top anchors

Chains or top anchors

P Piton

RB Removable bolt

Afternoon Shade

Morning Shade

Shade all day

Sun all day

Dappled shade all day

Can be climbed in wet weather

STAR RATING SYSTEM

ABBREVIATIONS & SYMBOLS

14

14

mailto:[email protected]


POTENTIAL: There is some potential for new routes, but not much. There is loads of potential on Taragon, about 600m towards

van Stadens.

GENERAL: 52 bolted routes, about 333 short trad routes & about 70 boulder problems. Please see the separate boulder guide.

ROCK TYPE: Hard smooth quartzite.

HAZARDS: The Slipper is very safe, but the following should be noted:

1. Snakes: there have been many Puffadders sighted. Big boots will help.

ENVIRONMENTAL:

1. Please don’t leave any litter & please make the effort to pick up any litter you see.

2. Stick to the paths.

3. Don’t pick, break or cut any plants. Alien trees are exempt, please cut down & poison as many as you can.

4. No fires or camping.

5. No mountain bikes or dirt bikes.

ACCOMMODATION: Falcon Rock at the base of Lady’s Slipper offers camping & chalets. Falcon has a sweet pub & restaurant.

Van Stadens

Parking

Rail Track

Old Cape Rd

Van Stadens Rd

Van Stadens Pass Rd

VanStadens

River

Boulders (See boulder guide)

Lady's Slipper

Falcon Rock

Taragon

Public Parking

Train bridge

N2 CT

N2 PE

Troll

Private Parking Mountain Club

Members Only


For bouldering - see the Slipper boulder guide.

Sunny SideP 21

l Twinkle Toes Wall

P 17

Kestrel Buttress

P 19

l The Wave & The Heel

P 10

Pixie's WallP 15

Little Red Hen P 23

Battle FaceP 12

Back In The Days

P 38

l Turning Rock

P 7

Golden Era P 36

Secret Socks

P 34

l FrogP 30

l Goose RockP 28

l Hidden Boulder

P 25

InyatiP 26

5 Minute Chill-Out Rock

P 14

l Falcon RockP 32


Turning Rock

The routes are set on awesome, clean rock, which is more of an oversize boulder. Most routes are about 12m long.

This lovely crag, has been the spot the MCSA has used to introduce beginners to climbing for years. There are a

number of quality top ropes that can be set for this purpose. Unfortunately some of the the details of most of the ascensionists

have been forgotten as they were not recorded properly when the routes were opened.

The following routes are on the PE

side of Turning Rock.

1. Baby Cakes – 12

30m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall

16/06/2005 (T)

Start just R of rounded arête. Up

prominent break, then continue up

easy ramp to a tree abseil.

2. Real Easy – 12

15m This is the short, easy, most LH

crack, which ends on a stance to the

R. Can be used as an access to set

top ropes or scramble off.

3. Circus Act – 18

12m Andrew Forsyth, Mike McKechnie & Wayne Clausen Nov 1983 (T)

3m R of Real Easy. Up crack in ramp to short open book. Move R onto ramp.

l 4. Flying Midget – 21 10m Morne van der Mescht & Derek Marshall 15/05/2004 (2B&C)

Short bolted line.

5. Bacon Burker -??

Start 3m R of Electric Circus up overhanging crack system.

6. Love Removal Machine – 21

Start 1.5m L of Comic Strip. Up pockets, cracks & an awesome nut placement.

7. Comic Strip – 13 11m Mike McKechnie & Rob Mac Geoghegan 1983 (T)

Up the prominent wide open book crack system.

8. Contesseration Direct – 20 11m Andrew Forsyth & Clee Roy Jan 1984 (T)

Start 1m L of Contesseration. Up a line which is just R of Comic Strip. 4m up traverse a 1m R into Contesseration. Up through

the overhang.

9. Contesseration – 15 11m Mike McKechnie & Rob Mac Geoghegan 1983 (T)

Up a line which is just R of Contesteration Direct. Moving hard L to an easier finish.

10. Howdat – 18 Andrew Forsyth & Mike McKechine 30/10/1983 (T)

Start 2m R of Contesseration.

11. Peek-a-boo – 21 Morne van der Mescht & Derek Marshall 15/05/2004 (T)

Start 4m L of descent chimney. Bouldery start, onto jugs.

12. Descent Chimney – 10

l 13. Beyond Desire – 27 Uwe Haller (5B&C)

Re-bolted by Derek Marshall in 2012.

14. Blood & Soil – 16 11m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 28/01/2007 (T)

4

1

2

9

3

8

6

7

5

10

12

13

11

9

8Turning Rock


Start just R of open

book. Move L to

belay from above

Beyond Desire.

15. Harrier – 15

Mike McKechine & Rob Mac

Geoghegan 1982 (T)

Start just R of open book. Up

ramp to R.

16. Too Little Play – 19

Dricus Bezuidenhout & Derek

Marshall 09/06/2007 (T)

3m R of the open book start of

Harrier, start under a roof with a

triangular notch cut into it. Up

jugs to the top.

17. Divine Election – 14

10m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 28/01/2007 (T)

1.5m R of the roof with a triangular notch cut into it, up into small L trending open books.

18. Litotes – 11 10m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 28/01/2007 (T)

3m R of the roof with a triangular notch cut into it, up undercut open book. Trend L.

The following routes are on the

seaward face of Turning Rock:

1. Head Mechanic – 23

25m Morne van der Mescht & Derek

Marshall 16/06/2005 (T)

2m L of rounded arête, up thin

slopers into short finger crack.

Continue up easy ramp to an abseil

tree.

2. The Law of the Jungle – 17

30m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester

16/06/2005 (T)

Up prominent wide crack. 5m L of

rounded arête.

3. Wicky Wacky Woo Show - 15

30m Wayne Clausen & Andrew

Forsyth 1983 (T)

Jagged L trending break.

4. Jeeves - 17 30m Andrew Forsyth & Richard van Haysteen 23/11/1984 (T)

Difficult mantle start below hanging block. Up LH side of hanging block. Continue to tree abseil.

5. Zininzi - 15 25m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 16/06/2005 (T)

Start on thin rounded grips. Then up very easy ramp to tree abseil.

412

10

3

6 5

98 7

Turning Rock

18

17

16

14

13

15

Turning Rock


6. Budding Inspiration - 12 30m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 16/06/2005 (T)

Up very easy break with L pointing spikes.

7. The World of Jugs - 12 40m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 24/04/2005 (T)

Very easy ramp. More of a scramble. A great route for pensioners learning to lead. It wonders all the way to the

top. Which is about 40m. Scramble off the back.

8. Men Behaving Badly – 11 40m Allen Luck & Craig Bester 24/04/2005 (T)

Very easy ramp. Lots of jugs. Go for the end of the slabs then scramble off.

9. Make the Bad Man Stop – 11 40m Craig Bester & Allen Luck 24/04/2005 (T)

Easy scramble to the top. Could be challenging if you had no arms.

10. Slash – 10 Rob Mac Geoghegan & Alex von Altenreus 1987 (T)

Easy diagonal ramp line.

The following routes are on the JB side of Turning Rock.

11. Winky Wanky - 12


Easy break 2m R of open book. Not very worthwhile at all.

12. Chocolate Starfish – 10

12m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 28/01/2007 (T)

Up the easy off width open book.

13. Thumb Technique – 10


Up the easy recess.

11

1213

Turning Rock


The Heel & The wave

From below Turning Rock, find a path that traverses in the JB direction. Up steeply to below two prominent

overhanging free standers. This is the eye catching rock formation that can be seen from kilometers away

1. Mujahideen – 17 55m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 26/11/2006 (T)

Start under steep bulge on RH side of slabs. Over the bulge & up to the L of the open book. Move R over the overhang & up the

open book with a nice finger crack higher up. Move L onto easy arête, to the top out.

2. Cyanosis – 18 Eric De Beer & Dricus Bezuidenhout Feb 2004 (T)

About 20m R of The Heel. Climb the crack line running up the larger broken face. Through a bulge, moving slightly R into crack

which runs through a slight overhang. Belay off abseil chains.

3. Trail Of Tears – 18 55m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 26/11/2006 (T)

Start 3m R of large R facing open book. Straight up the break. Where overhangs Traverse R on jugs to the arête. Up the arête

to top out.

4. Gluteus Maximus – 19 Andy de Klerk & Andrew Forsyth 25/06/1983 (T)

From the ledge behind The Heel. Move to the end of the ledge. This is the line that runs to the R of the prominent roof, with the

open book crack on the LH side of the roof.

5. Jurassic Roof – 19 Andy de Klerk & Andrew Forsyth 25/06/1983 (T)

From the ledge behind The Heel. Move to the end of the ledge. This is the open book crack on the LH side of the prominent

roof.

6. Ramp Route – 14 John Moss 1975 (T)

Start in prominent, but short crack, below the seaward arête on the PE side of The Heel. Gain the R trending ramp "ledge" to

some veg. Up the open book to the ledge behind The Heel.

6

4

1

2

9

3

8

6

7

5

14

10

15

13

2016

11 /12

17

1819

The Wave

The Heel

21


7. Turning Rock into Route – 15 Andy de Klerk & Andrew Forsyth 25/06/1983 (T)

Start from the ledge behind The Heel. Traverse L onto the PE face. Up to the L of the landward arête on the PE

face.

8. Mind Parasite – 21 Andy de Klerk & Andrew Forsyth 25/06/1983 (T)

RH seaward arête of The Heel. Worked & cleaned by Alvin Wood

l 9. Pumping Into The Blue – 25 Mike Roberts 1988 (6B&C)

Bolted line up the middle of the seaward face of The Heel. Re-bolted by Juan-dray Marshall in 2012.

l 10. Living After Midnight – 27 Juan-dray & Derek Marshall 23/05/2015 (8B&C)

Bolted by Derek Marshall.

11. Half Way Stop – 17 Franz Nel & Pete du Preez 1976 (T)

Starting in the gully on the JB side of The Heel. Up the crack system just L of the RH arête.

12. Pendulum – 14 Franz Nel & Pete du Preez 1976 (T)

Starting from the ledge behind The Heel & The Wave, up a crack system. Move seaward till almost in the middle of the face.

Top out.

13. Go-Go Alley – 13 42m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 18/06/2005 (T)

Ramp gully closest to The Heel, that runs up to the saddle between The Heel & The Wave.

14. Templar Renegade Crusade – 17 45m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 17/06/2005 (T)

Ramp between the two breaks that end on either side of the saddle between The Wave & Heel. The pro blanks out before the

ledge above. Not very sweet. Totally gripping.

15. Go-Go Tits – 14 42m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 18/06/2005 (T)

Up the large crack that ends in the LH side of the saddle between The Wave & Heel. It’s not quite as easy as it looks & much

longer than expected.

l 16. Marching Out – 20 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall April 2012 (8B&C)

Up the easier RH side of The Wave, but staying out of the large crack that ends in the LH side of the saddle between The Wave

& Heel.

l 17. Miss American Pie – 20 Andrew Forsyth 1983 (7B&C)

This is the variation that breaks R of Gung Ho. Unsure who placed the first bolts on this line, but Andrew opened it on trad. Re-

bolted by Derek Marshall.

l 18. Gung Ho – 19 Andrew Forsyth 1983 (7B&C)

Up the very blank looking overhang that is The Wave. Staying to the R of center. Originally opened on natural gear by Andrew

Forsyth. The first bolts were placed by Mike Roberts at this stage it was a mixed route, trad & two bolts. Morne van der Mescht

completely rebolted the route in 2003, believing it to be a Mike Roberts route. The retro bolting of which was permitted. It is now

a proper sport line.

l 19. Revolution Coming – 19 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall 21/09/2014 (10B&C)

20. Sky Line – 14 Bill Clarke, Mike Streeter & Geoff Streeter 1960’s (T)

Up the easy prominent arête on the L of The Wave.

21. Good Old Boys – 15 Andrew Forsyth 11/07/1983 (T)

Start up the steep scramble on the JB side of the wave. Climb the obvious break in the arête. Then follow almost the same line

as Sky Line.


Battle Face

Battle Face starts behind The Wave & Heel. The face continues in the JB direction till it reaches Pixies Sector. The

routes are longer, but still fairly easy. This should be one of the most popular areas on the Lady’s Slipper.

The following routes are on a large ledge behind The Wave & Heel.

1. Ava – 19 38m Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 17/06/2005 (T)

5m R large belay tree on ledge. 2m L of arête. Up an awkward undercut crack. Move R to the top out.

2. Gulliver's Travels – 21 10m Andrew Forsyth Clee Roy - 16/05/1985 (T)

Start up same awkward under cut crack. Then move L.

3. Mud Wrestling Delight – 15 21m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 17/06/2005 (T)

Above the large belay tree are two parallel cracks. Up the LH one which starts with an awkward step up. Then into a short

chimney. Move R onto steps & cracks above recess. Trend L onto a good abseil tree.

4. No Sign of Ceasefire – 15 23m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 30/08/2003 (T)

Up easy off width to the R.

5. Unusual Hesitation – 16 25m Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 30/08/2003 (T)

Just R of the RH bolted line climb the nasty awkward off width crack. Move L to the chains of Foot Up.

l 6. Foot Up – 17 25m Franz Nel & Pete Du Preez 1976 (9B&C)

This is the line of bolts 3m R of the blunt arête that is Battle Crack. Originally climbed on trad by Franz Nel. Bolted in error by

Derek Marshall in 2003.

l 7. Foot Up Direct – 20 25m Andrew Forsyth & Franz Nel 14/09/1979 (7B&C)

6

11/12

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1-5

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18

21

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11/12

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The Wave

The Heel

Battle Face

13


Start just R of Battle Crack. Up face to hand rails. Through small over hangs on small holds. Originally led on trad

by Andrew Forsyth. Bolted on the same hung over morning as Foot Up. Andrew was not too pleased about the

conversion of Foot Up & Foot Up Direct to sport climbs. The topo that existed at the time indicated that the two

routes were further towards the PE side of the face. Both lines will returned to their natural state in due course.

8. Battle Crack – 14 20m Karl Dauter 1971 (T)

Up the prominent off width slightly L of the arête.

9. The Gutter – 19 Bill Clarke, Mike Streeter & Geoff Streeter 1960’s (T)

1m L of Battle Crack up into curving crack system.

10. The Way – 15 Andrew Forsyth & Wayne Clausen (T)

Awesome looking curving crack that winds to the top of the face.

11. Philosophers Stone – 14 19m John Rous 1972 (T)

Up the easy break just R of the very easy off width.

12 - Philosophers Overhang – 19 Andrew Forsyth & Franz Nel 14/09/1979 (7B&C)

Same start as Philosophers Stone, then move out L through an overhang.

13. At The Hands Of a Sinner – 17 32m Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 03/03/2014 (T)

Up finger crack to a shallow bollard with a ledge on top. Up short seam in veg groove, into a crack that trends L at the top. Into a

notch in the skyline. Up easy ramp to the summit.

14. Prepare For War – 12 33m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 08/05/2005 (T)

Up the easy off width, trending L. Gain the ramp above. Scramble L to a thorn tree. This is the abseil point.

15. Leave Time Behind – 12 25m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 08/05/2005 (T)

Up the easy break 2m L of Prepare For War. Then onto the ramp and L to the abseil thorn tree.

16. Independence Day – 15 18m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 26/04/2003 (T)

5m R of undercut arête. Start on blunt arête. Top out through “V” notch.

17. Blitzkrieg – 15 17m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 26/04/2005 (T)

3.5m R of undercut arête. Start in small, broken open book.

18. Battle of the Bulge – 15 17m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 26/04/2005 (T)

2m R of undercut arête. Climb the obvious easy line.

19. Finger Fire Trail – 15 Andrew Forsyth 1977 (T)

Same start as Battle of the Bulge, traverse L over the overhang for 1.5m, then up.


Five Minute Chill-Out

This is just below & towards JB of Battle Face. The "blank face" is the short, but impressive face that you walk past

to get to Battle Face, Pixies & G Face. The rest of the routes are not marvelous, but are great for beginners to

learn to lead trad. All routes are escaped by abseiling down the sea ward ramp, from the bollard at the top of Coffee Society.

1. Potential

Up the R trending diagonal crack.

2. Child of The Stars – 20 10m Andrew Forsyth 1984 (T)

Start up 1,5m L of blunt arête. Follow the seemingly thin gear to a bollard on top.

3. Way of the Hunter – 15 9m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 08/05/2005 (T)

Up on blunt arête.

4. Just Chill – 12 9m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 22/08/2003 (T)

Easy crack on short ramp. Then through off width in roof.

5. Hot Durban Curry – 16 9m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 22/08/2003 (T)

Up blunt arête. R through small easy roof.

6. Coffee Society – 12 9m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 22/08/2003 (T)

Obvious open book.

7. Nipple Stand – 12 9m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 22/08/2003 (T)

Easy crack line.

8. Sub Zero – 14 10m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 22/08/2003 (T)

Climb easy line between cracks.

9. Kit Cat – 13 11m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 22/08/2003 (T)

Easy crack line.

10. Water Break – 13 17m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 22/08/2003 (T)

Climb the arête. Then up seaward ramp.

11. Extra Time – 14 21m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 22/08/2003 (T)

Climb blunt corner to abseil point.

12. Go-Go Goose – 17 21m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 22/08/2003 (T)

Up the rails just R of the lower JB arête.

13. Just a Minute – 15 21m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 18/06/2005 (T)

Climb the prominent ramp which leads into an off width open book, on the RH side of the sea ward ramp.

1

2

3

5 Minute Chill-out

To Pixies &

Battle Face

Bla

nk F

ace

Seaward ranp

Abseil Bollard

4

1

2

38

67

5

10

12 13

11

9

5 Minute Chill-out


Pixies

Follow the path from below Turning Rock. Continue past Battle Face. Pixies is the landward face to the L of Battle

Face. The routes are all very short, but great for some easy fun climbing

1. Hairy Fairy – 17

Morne Van der Mescht &

Bill Uren 26/04/2003 (T)

Start on jug above over

hanging arête. Move R into

broken groove.

2. Prixie – 12

Craig Bester & Derek

Marshall 26/04/2003 (T)

Climb the line of rock

between two off widths.

Follow clean rock to top.

3. Tinker Bell – 9

Craig Bester & Derek

Marshall 26/04/2003 (T)

Start to R of veg gully.

Climb onto ledge. L over

gully into easy crack.

4. Hobbits – 13 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 26/042003(T)

Climb the easy face to R of veg open book. Actually fairly nice.

5. Pixies Pitch – 15 Franz Nel (T)

Start in the crack 2m L of the open book. Move to the R of the crack, then back into the crack. Pixies Pitch might have being

opened by Franz Nel whose nickname at school was Pixie, apparently due to his pointy ears. But it defiantly was not opened by

Pixie Fuller, who only started climbing in about 83 when she started studying at Rhodes.

6. Pixies Direct – 14 Andrew Forsyth & Chris Wind 15/04/1979 (T)

Climb the crack line 2m L of open book.

7. Separation – 19 Andrew Forsyth 22/05/1983 (T)

This is the thin line that starts in Pete's Crack, but moves R. Remain L of Pixies Direct.

8. Pete’s Crack – 17 Pete Du Preez 1976 (solo)

L facing open book crack.

9. Crucifixion – 15 Jason Lang (T)

Crack system to the R of the chimney.

10. Grace or Tyrants – 12 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis 19/10/2014 (T)

L facing open book, onto easy ground.

11. Blood Skys – 15 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis 19/10/2014 (T)

Start in thin crack in bulge. Upper part of route is very easy.

12. Shadow of Dreams – 22 10m Andrew Forsyth Feb 1984 (T)

Arête 2m R of McKechnies Madness.

13. McKechnie’s Overhang – 20 Mike McKechnie 1975 (T)

After the overhung start move straight up into ledgey open book. Was soloed by Andrew de Klerk 26 June 1983.

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Pixies


14. McKechnie’s Madness – 20 Greg Lacey & Andrew Forsyth 23/06/1979 (T)

Perfect crack line to the R of Fingertip Explosion. This line was soloed by Andy de Klerk in 1983.

l 15. Fingertip Explosion – 25 Mike Roberts & John Alexander (6B&C)

Re-bolted by Derek Marshall in 2012.

l 16. Wild Child – 32 Juan-dray & Derek Marshall 02/07/2011 (5B&C)

Bolted by Morne Van de Mescht. This was opened by Juan-dray when he was only 15.

17. Grovelers – 14

Bill Clarke, Mike Streeter & Geoff

Streeter 1960’s (T)

Climb the RH off width, ramp, open

book.

18. Fire Place Crack – 19

Andy de Klerk & Andrew Forsyth

26/06/1983 (2B&T)

Climb the route 1m R of G Face. This

line was soloed a few days later by

Andrew Forsyth. Not sure who

placed the bolts. Possibly Uwe Haller

19. G Face – 19


Streeter 1953 (T)

Climb the crack system up the face,

into under clings, then up the crack.

20. G Crack – 19


Streeter 1953 (T)

Climb the LH Perfect crack.

21. G Whiz – 14 12m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 26/11/2006 (T)

Up the easy arête on the LH side of the face.

Scramble

down

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14Pixies

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Pixies


Twinkle Toes Wall

This is the clean looking wall, which faces the sea, above & on the JB side of Battle Face.

1. The Eyes of a Stranger – 21 Derek Marshall & Jonathan Woods 26/09/2009 (T)

Very short & surprisingly tough crack to the R.

2. Revolution Coming – 21 Derek Marshall & Jonathan Woods 26/09/2009 (T)

Very short & surprisingly tough crack to the L.

3. Delight is Disorder – 17 Andrew Forsyth & Mike McKechine 27/01/1984 (T)

Up the RH arête.

4. Wilkraag – 17 Derek Marshall & Pieter 26/09/2009 (T)

Startup crack just R of Twinkle Toes. Halfway up move R into R trending diagonal crack. Follow this onto the arête.

5. Twinkle Toes – 19 Wayne Clausen & Andrew Forsyth 1983

Up a prominent cracks, one of which is a fist crack. Move L into RH of twin top out cracks. Steven Reed placed two anchors at

the top, in 2003, to make the route easy to set up for beginners to top rope. The route was originally led by Andrew Forsyth,

using four points of aid in Jan 1982. Freed by Wayne Clausen.

6. Ulysses Direct – 24 Mike Roberts 1988 (T)

Start below LH of the twin top out cracks. Directly up to this.

l 7. Open Project – 27-ish Bolted by Morne van der Mescht (7B&C)

Bolted by Morne van der Mescht.

8. Ulysses – 21 20m Andrew Forsyth & Mike McKechine Jan 1984 (T)

Start 2m L of Twinkle Toes at the base of a wide crack. Up to a small ledge, then 1.5m off the ledge, Traverse 4m R on a

handrail. Up a thin vertical crack too the base of the off width crack. This is shared with Twinkle Toes. Traverse 2m L to a thin

crack. Thin moves to the top.

9. Domination – 16 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis 26/09/2009 (T)

RH crack in gully.

10. Domestication – 16 Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis 26/09/2009 (T)

RH crack in gully.

l 11. Delusions of Adequacy – 21 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout10/11/2013 (6B&C)

l 12. Closed Project – 28-ish Bolted by Derek the Monster Marshall (7B&C)

l 13. Closed Project – 28-ish Bolted by Derek the Monster Marshall (6B&C)

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Twinkle Toes Wall

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9


14. Don't wait For Heroes – 23 Clee Roy & Andrew Forsyth 24/09/1985 (T)

Prominent crack in center of face.

l 15. Screaming for Vengeance – 23 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 19/10/2014 (6B&C)

16. Battle Exit – 21 Andy De Klerk & Andrew Forsyth 26/06/1983 (T)

Up ramp to L trending diagonal break.

17. War Prayers – 18 Derek & Juan-dray Marshall 23/05/2015 (T)

Startup off width, step R on ledge up LH crack.

18. Its Hip To Be Square – 21 Andrew Forsyth 1985 (T)

Startup thinning crack onto a ledge. Up L trending crack that is a continuation of the off width. Traverse L about 1.5m into a

flaring crack.

19. The Hollow Men – 22 Andrew Forsyth & Clee Roy 07/09/1985 (T)

Start 6m R of Battle Exit. Up the overhanging wall with the wide crack, which narrows. 3m up the face steepens. Up crack using

lay always. Move slightly L when the crack becomes very narrow. Up to a ledge on the L.

20. Corridors Of Power – 20 Andrew Forsyth & Richard van Haysteen 23/11/1984 (T)

Very short jam crack to L of The Hollow Men.

21. State of Emergency – 19 Andrew Forsyth & Clee Roy Sept 1985 (T)

Up the overhanging face on jugs just L of The Hollow Men. Exit the same as for The Hollow Men.


Kestrel Buttress

On the JB side of Twinkle Toes Wall.

Some fairly long lines. Kestrel

1. Sugar Man – 16

Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout10/11/2013 (T)

Up the prominent easy break onto a ledge. Move R on

the ledge & pull through the overhang.

2. Street Legal – 20

Andrew Forsyth & Mike McKechine Jan 1984 (T)

Start on sloping rock below an overhang 5m R of Twist.

The face is undercut at the start. 2m up a prominent

crack leads to a ledge. Continue up the prominent

crack, trending L. Then up the face on the L. Delicate

climbing to the top.

3. Twist – 22

Andy De Klerk & Andrew Forsyth 25/06/1983 (T)

Original climbed on aid by Andrew Forsyth, Mike

McKechine & Bob Grey on 2 May 1982. Freed by Andy

de Klerk.

4. Plus Minus – 15 Andrew Forsyth & Mike McKechine 24/04/1982 (T)

Same start as Twist. Move up on jugs, then move L into a chimney with a tree in it.

5. Gibbon – 17 20m Andrew Forsyth & Mike McKechine 1984 (T)

Start 2m R of 5th Avenue. Move up and into the crack to the R of the arête.

6. 5th Avenue – 20 Andrew Forsyth & Mike McKechine Jan 1984 (T)

Start just to the R of the

seaward arête on the PE

face. Climb the face to gain

the arête. Move slightly R

near the top. Do not veer R

into the crack which is

Gibbon. Through a bulge to

the top.

The following routes are on

the sea ward face of Kestrel

Buttress.

7. Angel of My Life – 19

Andrew Forsyth & Richard

van Haysteen 23/11/1984 (T)

This route is on the L of the

arête. Between the arête &

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Kestrel Buttress

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Kestrel Buttress


the jam-crack-&-chimney.

8. Rivers of Fate – 14 Andrew Forsyth & Richard van Haysteen 23/11/1984 (T)

Jam crack & chimney.

9. Hibernation – 17 Mike McKechine & Andrew Forsyth (T)

10. League of the Questionable – 16 49m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 01/03/2006 (T)

3m R of Tit Bits, up easy ramp to some steeper bits, into off width before top out.

11. Tit Bits – 14 41m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 01/03/2006 (T)

Start up R facing ramp open book. Continue up easy ramp, moving L through middle of ramp between arête & square notch.

12. Laanie Sê Lyn – 14 50m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 26/02/2006 (T)

Up the indefinite crack in the ramp. Over easy bit & a sort of a ledge. Then up hand crack to the R, moving R near the top.

13. Hairy Bikini – 13 45m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 26/02/2006 (T)

Off width gully over easy ramp, then onto RH side of arête.


Sunny Side

The following lines are to the rear of Kestrel Buttress.

1. Flip Dis Lekker - 15

Allen Luck & Craig Bester 28/04/2006 (T)

Easy juggy arête.

2. Moer Dis Lekker - 14


Easy chimney.

3. Insanity – 13

Craig Bester & Allen Luck 28/04/2006 (T)

Juggy line to the R.

4. Le Harve - 14


Juggy line to the L.

5. Take it Easy – 12

Allen Luck &

Craig Bester 28/04/2006 (T)

Easy crack system.

6. Terminal Disappointment - 13


L up easy ramp.

7. Pain & Pollution - 16 12m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 01/03/2006 (T)

Up easy ramp then through overhang.

8. Greek Salad - 12 12m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 01/03/2006 (T)

Up R facing open book. Just to the R of the overhang. Through a square-ish notch.

The next small sectors are towards JB & slightly higher that the rear of Kestrel Buttress.

9. We are The One – 14 12m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 27/05/2007 (T)

Easy juggy line to R.

10. Covet the Throne - 10


Juggy ramp.

11. Try – 13


RH arête of pointed JB face.

12. Forever & One – 14


LH side of pointed JB face.

13. So-So – 17

10m Morne Van der Mescht & Derek Marshall 24/03/2007 (T)

1.5m R of off width. Overhanging start.

14. Fame & Prostitution – 15


Off width onto point. Very sweet.

15. Survive – 20

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12

11Sunny Side

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2

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Sunny Side



Up arête, continue up ramp.

16. Loose it All – 14 14m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 24/03/2007 (T)

Easy break up broken face, trend R.

17. Down – 15 14m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 24/03/2007 (T)

Easy break up broken face, trend L into crack system.

18. Chess with Tomorrow – 20 12m Morne Van der Mescht & Derek Marshall 24/03/2007 (T)

Overhang onto easy slab.

19. Ride the Lightning – 16 12m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 24/03/2007 (T)

Perfect lightning bolt crack in slab.

20. Take…Not to Give – 18 12m Morne Van der Mescht & Derek Marshall 24/03/2007 (T)

Thin crack system between lightning bolt crack & arête.

21. Too Be Free – 17 12m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 24/03/2007 (T)

Up arête.

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Sunny Side

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Sunny Side


Little Red Hen

This sector is 30m towards JB from the bottom of Turning Rock. Take the path towards JB at that starts below

Turning Rock. The path goes over a flat portion of rock. This is the top of Little Red Hen Sector. The routes are a

bit too short to be awesome, but the quality of the rock is great.

1. Pussy Path – 13

9m Hubertus Hoelzmann & Derek

Marshall 07/05/2005 (T)

Up the crack on the RH side.

2. Shallow Grave – 14

9m Derek Marshall & Hubertus

Hoelzmann 07/05/2005 (T)

Up 'V' notch break into the small off width.

3. Not I – 20

9m Derek Marshall & Hubertus

Hoelzmann 07/05/2005 (T)

Ramps & bulges to the L of prominent 'V' notch. Jugs & under clings.

4. I Shall – 11 9m Craig Bester & Hubertus Hoelzmann 07/05/2005 (T)

Up the shite looking gully.

5. Who Will - 13 9m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 07/05/2005 (T)

Up crack to the L of the ramp gully.

6. Me & my Chicks – 12 9m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 07/05/2005 (T)

Off width to the far L.

The next routes are on a short buttress further towards JB.

7. The Bag Of Seed – 14 8m Craig Bester & Hubertus Hoelzmann 07/05/2005 (T)

Very short crap break.

8. SS Committee – 17 12m Derek Marshall & Hubertus Hoelzmann 07/05/2005 (T)

Cracks just R of blunt arête.

9. Sunday Walk – 15 12m Hubertus Hoelzmann & Derek Marshall 07/05/2005 (T)

R trending crack.

10. Wednesday Talkers – 13 12m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 07/05/2005 (T)

Up just to the R of veg off width.

11. Easy Puppy – 10 12m Craig Bester & Hubertus Hoelzmann 07/05/2005 (T)

Easy slab to the L.

These routes are above the previous.

12. Dawn of Pleasure – 20 12m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 10/12/2006 (T)

Steep short crack to R of gully. Continue up slabs.

13. Gypsy Road – 20 10m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 10/12/2006 (T)

Sweet crack system on JB side, in the gully.

14. Ring the Bell – 18 10m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 03/12/2006 (T)

Up diagonal crack into alternate layback cracks, past a small roof.

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17 1619

18

21

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Little Red Hen


15. Facing the Wrath – 19 10m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 03/12/2006 (T)

Start at base of diagonal crack. Move up & slightly L, using small laybacks to top out.

16. San Sebastian – 18 12m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 03/12/2006 (T)

Curving juggy crack.

17. Sun Kissed – 21 12m Derek Marshall & Morne van der Mescht 10/12/2006 (T)

Up the rounded arête to R of Shadow on My Heart.

18. Shadow on My Heart – 18 18m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 10/12/2006 (T)

Off width on the corner, onto scramble ramp.

19. 8th Commandment – 21 15m Derek Marshall & Morne van der Mescht 10/12/2006 (T)

Up tricky slabs to L of Shadow on My Heart. Through the middle….don’t move L.

20. Endless Night – 15 17m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 03/12/2006 (T)

Crack system to L of off width. Onto chimney ramp.

21. Run – 15 Craig Bester & Jessica Jefferies 10/12/2006 (T)

Up middle of face to L of LH chimney.

22. We Burn – 14 15m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 10/12/2006 (T)

RH of LH chimney groove. To the top.


Hidden Boulder

These routes are on the face closest to JB:

l 1. Beatle Juice – 14

Jessica Jefferies & Morne Van Der Mescht March 2006

(2B&C)

2. Oven Baked Worm - 16

12m Andrew Forsyth & Mike McKechine 08/05/1982 (T)

Climb the flake system on LH side.

l 3. Pork Chop – 25

12m Morne Van Der Mescht 25/03/2006 (4B&C)

Thin moves just L of the off width. Morne solo on-

sighted this line.

4. Secret Messages – 21

17m Andrew Forsyth & Clee Roy 28/10/1984 (T)

Climb the awkward off width with the overhanging start.

Easy chimney to the top.

l 5. Dingle Berry Juice – 21

Morne Van Der Mescht & Jessica Jefferies 25/03/2006 (4B&C)

l 6. Tunnel of Love – 20 12m Andy de Klerk & Andrew Forsyth 25/06/1983 (5B&C)

Up juggy overhang. Originally led with natural gear & some rests by Andrew Forsyth & Wayne Clausen. Bolted in 2003 by Derek

Marshall. Unfortunately the guide could not be clearly understood. Makes a good bolted line.

The next routes are around the corner to the R.

l 7. Slap Her She’s French – 24

14m Morne Van der Mescht & Derek Marshall

24/08/2003 (5B&C)

L trending bolted line to the R of the juggy

overhang.

l 8. Snake - 24

17m Morne Van der Mescht & Derek Marshall

23/08/2003 (T)

Boulder start to gain R trending crack system.

This was originally climbed with 9 points of aid

by Andrew Forsyth & Mike McKechine. Morne

managed to lead it on site.

l 9. My Little Black Book – 29

Morne Van de Mescht & Dricus Bezuidenhout

Jan 2007 (5B&C)

At the 2009 Rock & Road, the competitors built a cheat-platform (surely inspired by some Natalian) & then downgraded the

route to 27. But in the Eastern Cape we say: ladders, scaffolding & other artificial means are cheating.

l 10. Screamer – 29 Morne Van der Mescht & Dricus Bezuidenhout 20/11/2005 (5B&C)

l 11. Beautiful Other – 26 Martin Renz & Derek Marshall 04/04/2009 6B&C)

l 12. Lost and Found – 27 Morne van der Mescht & Jessica Jeffries 11.04.2009 (5B&C)

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Hidden Boulder

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Hidden Boulder


l 13. Moon Grazer – 27 Morne van der Mescht & Jessica Jeffries Jan 2007 (5B&C)

14. Puppet Of Doom – 24 Morne Van de Mescht & Derek Marshall 24/07/2003 (T)

Up the thin line to the L of the open book.

15. Fire Woman – 16 14m Andrew Forsyth & Mike McKechine 08/05/1982 (T)

Climb the open book, to top out through a sky light.

l 16. Tufi – 27 Morne Van de Mescht & Jessica Jefferies Jan 2007 (5B&C)

l 17. Caffeine Machine – 26 11m Morne der Mescht & Magnus Wagener (4B&C)

l 18. Wrapped Up – 27 Morne Van der Mescht & Dricus Bezuidenhout 20/11/2005 (3B&C)

19. One Eyed worm – 17 9m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 24/08/2003 (T)

Climb the chimney on the RH arête.

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Hidden Boulder


Inyati

This is the buttress just after Hidden Boulder on the JB side. The routes are all trad, a bit short, but the rock is

solid. Routes are recorded anti-clockwise from the JB face.

1. Practice – 16 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 27/04/2006 (T)

Thin but easy line on face.

2. Living on a Prayer – 17 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 27/04/2006 (T)

Obvious plum line at this crag.

3. Ever Dream – 15 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 27/04/2006 (T)

Up easy break, onto easy arête. To the belay point.

4. Skid Marks – 16 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 27/04/2006 (T)

Startup lowed JB corner, continue up arête.

5. Happiness – 14 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 27/04/2006 (T)

Up middle of easy ramp between lowed JB corner & the cleft.

6. Beware the Stampede – 14 Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 27/04/2006 (T)

Up the arête that forms the LH arête of the chimney.

7. Feet, Boots & All – 14 Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 27/04/2006 (T)

Up the chimney on the seaward face.

8. Assbag – 14 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 27/04/2006 (T)

Up the easy blunt arête on the R of the chimney.

1 2

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Inyati


Goose Rock

Goose Rock is on the same contour as Hidden Boulder, about 200m on the JB side. The lines are surprisingly

long.

1. Freedom Crack – 11 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 27/04/2003 (T)

Climb onto platform. Then up the obvious easy crack onto block. Mantle to top.

2. The Climbing Caliphate – 15 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 08/11/2014 (T)

Up onto low ledge, up the crack system directly to the chains of Goose Flesh. This goes between Freedom Crack & Goose

Flesh.

l 3. Goose Flesh – 21 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 23/08/2003 (6B&C)

4. Qunut-e-nazla – 18 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 08/11/2014 (T)

Up onto low ledge, clip the first 2 bolts of Goose Flesh. Break out R over Goose Flesh onto a ledge. Up the crack to gain the

ridge.

l 5. Infinity and Beyond – 25 Morne Van der Mescht & Monique Hibonett May 2003 (4B&C)

6. Hunger & Fear – 17 Derek Marshall & Dricus Bezuidenhout 08/11/2014 (T)

Up onto slopping ledge to the R of Infinity and Beyond. Directly up through thin moves & thin gear. Step R to avoid real line. Up

the edge to the chains of Goose Flesh.

7. Lust Less – 17 18m Morne Van der Mescht & Bill Uren 27/04/2003 (T)

4m R of To Infinity and Beyond climb the diagonal crack to the abseil bollard.

8. Slag – 16 21m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 27/04/2003 (T)

Start on the arête. Move R and up the ramp. To abseil bollard.

9. Goose Noose – 16 21m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 27/04/2003 (T)

Start in obvious gully. Up short open book. Then easy ground to abseil bollard.

10. Bill’s First – 15 17m Bill Uren & Derek Marshall 27/04/2003 (T)

Start in gully as. At the open book Traverse R and up easy moves to abseil bollard.

11. Le Gherkin – 16 20m Morne Van der Mescht 23/08/2003 (T)

Up the face between the

gully and the arête.

Them up to abseil bollard.

Seaward Face

PE SideContour

Path

Abseil Bollard

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1

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3

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67

5

13

15 16

14

Goose Rock

10

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11


12. Gooses – 20


Start 1m L of arête. Up zig zaging crack system.

13. Sweet Salvation – 17 21m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 27/04/2003 (T)

1m R of arête, up trending R. Staying off arête, gain the ramp.

14. Cookie Monster Crack – 14 15m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 27/04/2003 (T)

Climb the large open book chimney.

15. Mr I.D.G.A.F – 18 13m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 28/04/2003 (T)

3m R of rounded undercut arête. Climb the LH crack onto slopping ledge. Them up short open book.

16. Loose Goose – 10 8m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 28/04/2003 (T)

4m L of short jagged arête. Climb the easy broken crack.

Situated about 20m above Goose Rock, on the JB face. The routes are short (11m), but very sweet. Walk off is easy.

1. Goose Next Door – 14 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 24/08/2003 (T)

Crack line on R.

2. Captain Goose - 14 Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 24/08/2003 (T)

Up the off width.

3. Super Bint Corner – 15 Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 24/08/2003 (T)

Arête on L.


Frog

Frog is on private property. Please make contact with Derek Marshall 083 681 8713 to make araingments for

acess. Follow the contor path from Hidden Boulder, over Inyati & Goose to Frog.

1. Vicious Circle – 12 7m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 30/04/2006 (T)

Short easy line just R of scramble off.

2. Nothing Better To Do – 16 8m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 30/04/2006 (T)

Short L facing jagged flake system.

3. End of the Rainbow – 24 Morne van der Mescht & Jessica Jeffries 30/04/2006 (T)

Start under most impressive overhanging point, into deep R trending 300mm slot. Move diagonally L. Keep on up diagonal L to

top out 2m L of point.

4. Piss Ant – 24 11m Morne van der Mescht & Jessica Jeffries 30/04/2006 (T)

Same start as (3), but move R & up diagonally R to end just R of the point.

5. Crystal Eyes – 20 10m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 30/04/2006 (T)

Start 3m R of (3&4), hard moves at start. Move R to base of large crack gully, then diagonally L to top out notch.

6. Close Your Eyes – 19 10m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 30/04/2006 (T)

Start in R trending diagonal overhang. Move R from take off, then move L to top out in notch.

7. Dragon For Lunch – 19 12m Derek Marshall & Terrance Trevaskis 03/10/2009 (T)

Start on a 600mm jug rail that slopes down to the R. Move up & into deep crack to the L. Up a few meters then diagonally L to

top out in top of gully crack.

8. Potential (T)

Same start as Dragon For Lunch. Move slightly R into pristine crack. Top out directly above in wide open book.

9. In The Dark – 18 12m Derek Marshall & Terrance Trevaskis 03/10/2009 (T)

Jump for jug to the L of the horn jug. Up easy R trending ramp open book.

10. Hark In the Dark – 21 12m Derek Marshall & Terrance Trevaskis 03/10/2009 (T)

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Frog


Start 2.5m R of horn jug. Start R move up L up diagonal rail. Powerful moves into crack system above.

11. Angle With Scabbed Wings – 16 25m Terrance Trevaskis & Derek Marshall

03/10/2009 (T)

Start at lowest JB point. Move up jagged stepped arête. Through a prominent corner on the arête. Trend R to

abseil bollard above.

12. Easy Rider – 17 26m Terrance Trevaskis & Derek Marshall 03/10/2009 (T)

Start between rock & hanging boulder on the sea ward side. Up over ramp to the break in the vertical portion, on to abseil

bollard above.

13. Amazing Grays – 17 25m Derek Marshall & Terrance Trevaskis 03/10/2009 (T)

Start in R trending diagonal open book. Up directly to abseil bollard.

14. No Hesitation – 17 25m Derek Marshall & Terrance Trevaskis 03.10.2009 (T)

Start in lightning break. Move L & up, then directly up moving R near the top to the abseil bollard.

15. Potential (T)

16. Potential (T)

17. Potential (T)

18. Potential (T)

l 19. CLOSED PROJECT - >30 Bolted by Derek The Monster Marshall (4B&C)

l 20. CLOSED PROJECT - >30 Bolted by Derek The Monster Marshall (4B&C)

l 21. CLOSED PROJECT – 25/26 Bolted by Derek The Monster Marshall (4B&C)

22. Dream Chaser – 15 Juan-Dray Marshall & Terrance Trevaskis 03/10/2009 (T)

Start in cave, up through eye. Continue up trending L to top out.

Abseil Bollard

Seaward Ramp

Contour Path

PE Side

Scramble off

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Frog


Falcon Rock

Falcon Rock is on the farm of the same name on the JB side of the MCSA Slipper property. Drive 150m past the

MCSA gate. The next driveway is Falcon Rock. Park in the car park on the RH side of the house in the area

indicated. Please report to the bar-reception for a parking ticket & permission. There may be an entrance fee. Walk through the

awesome restaurant area (first climb, then have a beer on the way out...works better!) or around the restaurant to the R. Find

the track which crosses in front of the shooting range to a large free standing boulder set in a forest of wattles. This is an ideal

venue to mix climbing with kids, wives & mothers.

l 1. Beginners Luck – 21 Franco Jacobs 2007 (3B&C)


l 2. Shell Shock – 26 Morne van der Mescht & Jessica Jeffries 09/04/2009 (4B&C)


3. Bounty Hunter – 26 Morne van der Mescht & Jessica Jeffries 28/01/2007 (T)

Up through tradable overhang to the R of Shell Shock.

l 4. Blood & Wine – 21 Jessica Jeffries & Morne van der Mescht Aug 2005 (4B&C)

5. No Not More – 12 Allen Luck & Craig Bester 16/04/2005 (T)

Ramp chimney.

l 6. Iron Born – 17 Terrance & Tracy Trevaskis 2014 (5B&C)

l 7. Fight For Rights – 15 Terrance Trevaskis & Derek Marshall 2013 (4B&C)

l 8. Warm Bananas – 17 Derek Marshall & Martin Renz 14.02.2009 (4B&C)

l 9. Oceans Apart – 29 Morne van der Mescht & Dricus Bezuidenhout 2005 (4B&C)

l 10. Black Powder – 28 Martin Renz & Heidi Smelders May 2005 (4B&C)

l 11. Boogerman – 25 Morne van der Mescht & Dricus Bezuidenhout Aug 2005 (4B&C)

l 12. Open Project – 31-ish Morne van der Mescht

13. 1984 – 23 Andrew Forsyth January 1984 (T)

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Falcon Rock


Prominent crack slightly R of center on the seaward face.

l 14. Ying Yan – 24 Martin Renz & Dricus Bezuidenhout Aug 2005 (4B&C)

l 15. Aftermath – 26 Martin Renz & Dricus Bezuidenhout Aug 2005 (4B&C)

l 16. Happy Cow – 13 Robyn Bonnette & Juan-Dray Marshall 08/07/2011(3B&C)

Bolted by Derek the Monster Marshall.

17. On Wings of a Falcon - 14 Allen Luck & Craig Bester 16/04/2005 (T)

Sharp arête on PE side.

18. Yes Please – 12 Allen Luck & Craig Bester 16/04/2005 (T)

Short crack line.

19. Never Be a Star – 12 Craig Bester & Allen Luck 16/04/2005 (T)

1.3m L of bolted arête.

Scramble off

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WARNING -

Bee Hive on top!

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Secret Socks

Continue past Turning Rock on the PE side. The path passes close to a buttress, which although it is only about

10m high, has some very sweet routes. There are some bolts on top for setting top ropes for beginners.

1. Piece of Pie – 9 9m Craig Bester & Allen Luck 24/04/2004 (T)

Up 10m L of start of easy ramp.

2. Pick a Box – 9 9m Allen Luck & Craig Bester 24/04/2004 (T)

Up 7.5m L of start of easy ramp.

3. Peanut Line – 9 9m Craig Bester & Allen Luck 24/04/2004 (T)


4. Easy Chicks – 10 9m Allen Luck & Craig Bester 24/04/2004 (T)


5. Viena In a Passage – 12 9m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 24/04/2004 (T)

Easy off width.

6. Fallen Smile – 10 10m Craig Bester & Allen Luck 24/04/2004 (T)

Up ramp just R of nasty off width.

7. Pee In the Sky – 10 10m Craig Bester & Allen Luck 24/04/2004 (T)

Easy crack system 4.5m R of off width.

8. Chaos Crack – 1 10m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 23/04/2004 (T)

Up ramp passed prominent 'V' notch.

9. Never Crawl – 1 11m Craig Bester & Allen Luck 24/04/2004 (T)

Off width on RH side of easy slabs.

10. Poovi – 14 12m Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 23/04/2004 (T)

Up jagged arête 1.5m L of broken open book. Move L into chimney.

11. Up To The Left – 14 12m Rob Mac Geoghegan & Mike McKechine 1982 (T)

Up broken open book into zigzagged crack system.

12. Snake Eye – 15 12m Mike McKechine & Rob Mac Geoghegan 1983 (T)

Start up ferned off width. Up LH broken open book. Move L & up seemingly thinly protected face.

13. Up to the Right – 15 12m Mike McKechine & Rob Mac Geoghegan 1982 (T)

2m L of broken open book, up ramp into prominent crack.

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Secret Socks


14. Nostalgia – 17

12m Mike McKechine & Rob Mac Geoghegan 1982 (T)

Up bulging blunt arête. Past C shaped jugs near the top.

15. Take Me – 16 12m Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 24/04/2004 (T)

Crack line slightly R of blunt arête.

16. Wet Berboer Contest – 16 10m Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 24/04/2004 (T)

Up shorter crack through an overhang past a key locked rock.

17. Take Hold – 14 8m Derek Marshall & Allen Luck 24/04/2004 (T)

Shorter route to the R. Over hanging lay backs.

18. Back Den – 15 9m Rob Mac Geoghegan & Mike McKechine 1982 (T)

Short off width.


Golden Era Sector

Follow the path past Turning Rock & Secret Socks Corner. From this path, find the path that leaves the main path in the

direction of JB. Find the path that runs downhill, under the prominent needle to the front of the ridge. The seaward slabs extend

to The Heel. This is The Golden Era Sector. The climbing is much better that one would expect. The following routes start on

the JB side of the seaward face.

1. Pimp My Bitch – 16 38m Derek Marshall & Deon Mostert 09/12/2007 (T)

Up nice featured crack system. Move R & up the ramp to a belay spot.

2. Time Has Bought Fire – 15 38m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 09/04/2004 (T)

Start just L of a ramp arête. Through a sort of an overhanging bit. Then onto easy ramp to a good comfy ledge, but with poor

gear placements. There are trees to abseil from or a time consuming walk off.

3. Noxious – 17 Mike McKechnie & Rob Mac Geoghegan 1987 (T)

Up R trending diagonal.

4. Streets are Screaming – 18 38m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 09/04/2004 (T)

Up the R trending groove & up the ramp crack above.

5. Voice Without a Sound – 17 37m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 09/04/2004 (T)

Climb the LH off width, which is in a kind of an open book. The off width moves L over a ramp and a has a distinct block dividing

it from the RH line. Then up an easy ramp to a good comfy ledge, but with poor gear placements

6. See the Light – 16 38m Derek Marshall & Deon Mostert 09/12/2007 (T)

RH off width gully. Straight up to the top.

7. Revolution Coming – 16 38m Derek Marshall & Deon Mostert 09/12/2007 (T)

Up slabby bit to the fist crack. Continue up over white soapy slabs.

8. Meat Makes Me Strong – 17 34m Dricus Bezuidenhout & Craig Bester 09/12/2007 (T)

Off width gully crack.

9. Mate of SARS – 17 38m Derek Marshall & Deon Mostert 09/12/2007 (T)

Up face between cracks. Break through onto a ledge. Up off width to the top.

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Golden Era Sector


10. Piece of Cake – 10

Rob Mac Geoghegan & Alex von Altenreus 1987 (T&C)

Know body knows quite where this route goes anymore.

11. Tandpyn - 16

Rob Mac Geoghegan & Alex von Altenreus 1987 (T)

Up prominent ramp crack.

These routes are towards the PE side of Golden Era Sector.

12. Nip & Tuck – 15 52m Allen Luck & Craig Bester 23/04/2004 (T)

Start in a crack to the R of the clean looking slab. Up trending L to a good ledge on the L. Straight up to open book ramp near

the top. Top out. Abseil from the anchors at the top of Piton Crack.

13. Jolly Joker – 17 40m Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 23/04/2004 (T)

Up the roof width break to the L of the off width open book. Up the ramp staying as much as possible on rock avoid the veg if

you can. Gain the top of the ridge. Abseil from the anchors at the top of Piton Crack.

14. No Porkers Crack – 15 40m Craig Bester & Allen Luck 23/04/2004 (T)

Start up the nasty off width open book. Gain the ramp. Climb the LH side of the ramp to the top of the ridge. Abseil from the

anchors at the top of Piton Crack.

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Golden Era Sector


Back In The Days Sector

Past Turning Rock &

Secret Socks Sector. This

is the sector to the L & R of the

prominent horn. Although some of the

routes are a bit short, there are some

really good easy routes. The routes are

very concentrated. This is the best

granny trad crag in the Eastern Cape.

There are so many routes for beginners.

1. Eat The Rich – 18


23/04/2004 (T)

Up short L facing open book with nasty

overhang. Onto the easy ramp. Up the

arête of the easy ramp.

2. Absolute Autocracy – 17


23/04/2004 (T)

Up the break just R of Eat The Rich.

Gain the easy ramp. Up the middle of

the easy ramp to the ridge.

3. Vertical Warriors – 17 38m Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 23/04/2004 (T)

Start up a L facing open book. Then into a chimney break, onto the ramp. Climb the easy LH side of the ramp to the ridge.

4. Grabbing the Goose By The Balls – 15 37m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 23/04/2004 (T)

Up over the protruding sections, moving R into an open book. Then up the easy ramp to the ridge.

5. Peter Pan - 14 36m Allen Luck & Craig Bester 17/04/2004 (T)

Up chimney to the L of the bolted route up the horn.

6. Holy Crack – 14 Bill Clarke, Mike Streeter & Geoff Streeter 1953 (T)

Same start as Genesis, then move L into a crack. Continue up trending L onto the arête. Top out on the ridge.

l 7. Genesis – 19 15m Uwe Haller Late 1980’s (T,3B & C)

This is the bolted line up the horn.

8. Duck Soup Alternate Finnish – 24 15m Mark Berry 1990’s (T&C)

Start in open book just R of Genesis. Break out of open book and onto front face. End on the chains of Genesis.

9. Duck Soup Direct – 24 15m Mark Berry 1990’s (T&C)

Start in open book just R of Genesis. Stay in the open book, exiting on the arête to the R. Easy ground to the top of the ridge.

10. Water Babies – 14 14m Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 17/04/2004 (T)

Up break in slab about a meter R of the arête. Into the chimney formed by the horn.

11. Thirty Two – 15 13m Derek Marshall & Chris Te-Braake 17/04/2004 (T)

Up the blank looking slab 2m to the L of Piton Crack.

12. Piton Crack – 14

13m Bill Clarke, Mike Streeter & Geoff Streeter 1953 (T&2B on top)

Awesome L facing open book. This is a true classic.

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Back in the Days Sector


13. Flash Dance – 19 12m Andrew Forsyth & Dave Anderson 29/07/1983 (T)

Crack 1m to the R of Piton Crack.

14. A Night At The Opera – 22 14m Andrew Forsyth & Alan Briers 26/05/1985 (T)

Up the arête 2m R of Piton Crack.

15. Speak the Word – 16 14m Allen Luck & Derek Marshall 17/04/2004 (T)

Up L Facing overhanging open book. Move L into juggy break. Top out.

16. Back in the Day – 17 18m Tim Robertson 1970 (T)

Up L Facing overhanging open book. Straight up.

17. Herman The German – 10 15m Stefan Hoelz & Derek Marshall 17/04/2004 (T)

Up easy arête. Through bush & up easy ground to the top.

18. Oh Happy Days – 11 14m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 10/04/2004 (T)

Up LH side of broken face. LH L facing open book ramp.

19. Twisting like A Snake – 11 13m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 10/04/2004 (T)

Up the middle of the broken face, just to the L of the short overhanging chimney.

20. Grasp Your Sword – 12 15m Allen Luck & Craig Bester 17/04/2004 (T)

Same start as Grasp Your Sword, then move R into an easy open book. Keep trending

R over the "cave".

21. No Pardon! No Prisoners! – 14 15m Craig Bester & Allen Luck 17/04/2004 (T)

Up easy broken ramp. L into large open book.

22. Time Has Bought Fire – 14 12m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 09/04/2004 (T)

Up easy ramp into short L facing open book. Easy ground to the top.

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23. Clarity Crack – 13 12m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 09/04/2004 (T)

Up the broken break 1.5m R of Time Has Bought Fire.

24. The Change – 13 12m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 09/04/2004 (T)

Up the jugs 0.75m R of Clarity Crack. Near the top traverse L to the abseil bollard on the top of the ridge.

25. Pie in The Sky – 11 12m Craig Bester & Allen Luck 10/04/2004 (T)

Easy break 1m L of chimney.

26. Crushed Like a Grass Hopper – 10 13m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 09/04/2004 (T)

Start up chimney then up easy ramp.

27. Way in the Sky – 14 14m Allen Luck & Stefan Hoelz 17/04/2004 (T)

Open book, then up LH side of block.

28. 8A NU Wankathon – 17 14m Derek Marshall & Chris Te-Braake 17/04/2004 (T)

Up ramp below awesome roof crack. Through the roof.

29. Bird Man Crack – 14 14m Chris Te-Braake & Derek Marshall 17/04/2004 (T)

Up off width, then move L onto the RH side of the Block.

30. Jihad & a Mouthful of Peanut Butter – 16 14m Derek Marshall & Chris Te-Braake 17/04/2004 (T)

Up the unlikely arête.

31. Ja…Back in The Days – 14 12m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 09/04/2004 (T)

Up the prominent open book.

32. Ja…I Remember – 14 11m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 09/04/2004 (T)

Up L facing small open book, 1m R of Ja…Back in The Days.

33. Alzheimer's Arête – 14 11m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 09/04/2004 (T)

Up the arête just R of Ja…I Remember.

34. Tany Mossies Crack – 12 10m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 09/04/2004 (T)

Chimney.

35. SS Grannies – 10 10m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 09/04/2004 (T)

Arête to R of Chimney.


The following routes are to the PE side of the normal MCSA Lady’s Slipper.

Dawn Rocks

This on ridge line at the second pimple R of the Main Slipper. Not great climbing.

1. Dirty Suicide – 15 14m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 06/08/2006 (T)

Break in middle of LH rock.

2. Never Ever – 16 14m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 06/08/2006 (T)

Close to the LH arête.

3. Sole Survivor – 14 14m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 06/08/2006 (T)

Up using any means possible.

4. Don’t Surrender to The Man – 13 14m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 06/08/2006 (T)

Easy break.

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Vinland


Vinland

This is far to the R of the main Slipper areas.

1. The Heretic – 13 13m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 13/06/2006 (T)

Short slab onto ledge, up prominent break.

2. All I Need – 15 13m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 13/06/2006 (T)

Up slab over veg gully to gain crack to R of gully.

3. City Veg – 13 13m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 13/06/2006 (T)

Up curving veg gully.

4. Who I Am – 16 16m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 13/06/2006 (T)

Up nice break.

5. Tomorrow I’ll be Gone – 14 17m Craig Bester & Derek Marshall 13/06/2006 (T)

Wide break.

6. Restless Gypsy – 15 18m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 13/06/2006 (T)

Up between two easy breaks.

7. Running in the Wind – 16 18m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 13/06/2006 (T)

Broken wide break, move L near the top, into tiny R facing open book.

8. Running Free – 17 20m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 13/06/2006 (T)

LH side of the arête.

9. Taming My Seven Seas – 18 20m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 26/08/2006 (T)

Up on RH side of arête.

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Dawn Rocks


Wish Master

This small & insignificant crag is to the L & below Vinland. S33° 53’ 34.0” E025° 15’ 35.1”

1. Riding the Breeze – 15


Short broken arête. Nice clean.

2. Catch Me If You Think You Can – 12


Short broken face on nice clean rock.

3. You By My Side – 14


LH diagonal over loose block. Finger crack.

4. Over the Hills & Far Away – 12


Twin cracks.

5. Count the Days – 13


RH arête.

6. Away – 10


Crap Chimney to the R.

The next three routes are further R on a very small buttress.

7. Wish I had an Angel – 14 9m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 06/08/2006 (T)

Easy RH arête.

8. Angel Tonight – 14 9m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 06/08/2006 (T)

Up the middle.

9. Provocation – 18 9m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 06/08/2006 (T)

RH arête.

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Wish Master

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Wish Master


The Wonderer

Easy small crag with good rock quality.

1. To the End – 14 15m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 26/08/2006 (T)

Ranp crack on LH side.

2. Spirit in the Wind – 14 15m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 26/08/2006 (T)

Off width open book.

3. Last Commandment – 14 15m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 26/08/2006 (T)

Jagged easy crack.

4. Darkness Gone Away – 14 15m Derek Marshall & Craig Bester 26/08/2006 (T)

Up crack just L of arête.

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The Wonder


Famer Brown

The following crags are to the right of the main Lady’s Slipper area. As you turn off the tar road onto Van Stadens

Road (dirt), take the track that leads to a small flat roofed farm house set in the middle of an un-fenced, cleared

land. Please politely ask the famer if you can climb on his land. He is very obliging. Park as far as you can up the track along the

trees on the RH side of his property. Bundu bash to the crags.

This is the best looking prominent face above this farmers land. All the routes were soloed by Morne van der Mescht & Derek

Marshall on a low interest day. It’s not really worth carrying in a rack, but if you have to climb it all….

1. Easy Slab – 14 Derek Marshall 2007

2. Mad Slab – 19 Morne van der Mescht 2007

3. Prom Crack – 17 Derek Marshall 2007

4. Lekker Crack – 18 Morne van der Mescht 2007

5. Not Bad – 16 Derek Marshall 2007

6. Pretty Cool – 17 Derek Marshall 2007

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Farmer Brown


Kinslay

This is the PE face of the buttress just to the R of the trees that line the track on the RH side of the cleared lands.

Very short, but some fun.

1. Chicken Fingers – 16 9m Terance Trevaskis & Derek Marshall 05/12/2000 (T)

From the lowest point. Move 5m R to block ramp. Up trending R.

2. Kinslayer – 19 10m Derek Marshall & Terance Trevaskis 05/12/2000 (T)

Up L trending diagonal crack, through slight

overhang.

3. Flipping Hell – 20

10m Derek Marshall & Terance Trevaskis

05/12/2000 (T)

Start just L of L facing wide open book. Up L

trending diagonal.

4. Terrorized – 18

16m Derek Marshall & Terance Trevaskis

05/12/2000 (T)

Start just L of L facing wide open book Straight

up onto ledge. Open book to the top.

5. Teradactyl – 15

13m Terance Trevaskis & Derek Marshall

05/12/2000 (T)

Up ramp open book. Straight up.

6. Finished – 14

12m Terance Trevaskis & Derek Marshall

05/12/2000 (T)

Up most un-broken slab line to the R.

Doomslay

200m R of Kinslay is a small wave out crop. The routes are

short, but challenging.

1. Fall From Grace – 19

Derek Marshall & Terrence Trevaskis 05/12/2000 (T)

Up steps into steep crack.

2. Give Me More - 17

Derek Marshall & Terrance Trevaskis 05/12/2000 (T)

1.5m L of arête. Up crack them move L to top out.

3. Play Master – 18 Derek Marshall & Terrance Trevaskis 05/12/2000 (T)

Up staying on LH side of arête.

4. Dream Maker – 19 Derek Marshall & Terrence Trevaskis 05/12/2000 (T)

RH side of arête.

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Kinslay

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2 3Doomslay


Taragon

This is the smaller outcrop of rock about 400m further along the road towards van Stadens Gorge.

Taragon is on private land. Please approach the owners with caution & respect. They are well disposed towards

climbers & don’t normally have any issue with people wanting to climb on their land.

1. Franky Doodle – 17 38m Franco Jacobs & Derek Marshall February 2006 (T)

This route follows a line directly below the highest point. Up a ramp to a large open book crack. Step r into a good crack then

trend L to belay from the highest point.

2. The Flame – 18 48m Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis 16/12/2009 (T)

Start in the open book about 8m L of the prominent overhang. Move up & R onto a ramp, then a little L onto an arête. Easy

ground onto a large ledge. Up the prominent open book. Then L over easy ground to the top.

3. Paint it Black – 14 18m Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis 16/12/2009 (T)

Obvious, but not fantastic R facing open book.

4. Show no Mercy – 15 18m Derek Marshall & Terence Trevaskis 16/12/2009 (T)

Up layaway to the L on semi-freestander.

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Taragon

Documents

THIS GUIDE IS DEDICATED TO CLIFF HUGES · 7 z Turning Rock Sunny Side 34 Secret Socks 45 Farmer Brown ... • Double big thanks to Werner Illenberger, Trefor Loyd & the MCSA doers