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PlainclothespolicesitatopmanybuildingsintheBarkhordistrictofdowntownLhasaduringdaylighthours,alertforanypublicdisturbance.(Jannuziphoto)

MoodinLhasastilluneasyWesawnosignsofthepropertydamagethatreportedlyoccurredduringtheMarch,2008antiChineseriotsthatrockedLhasaandspreadtootherpartsofTibet,including,unusually,TibetanareasoutsidetheTibetanAutonomousRegion(TAR).However,theomnipresentsecurityforcesintheTibetanquarterandthetightcontrolexercisedbyourhandlersseemedtoindicatethattensionsremainandofficialscontinuetobeconcernedaboutunrest.TheTibetanquarter,centeredontheJokhangTempleandtheBarkhormarket,theepicenterofthe2008antiChineseriots,isnowheavilypatrolledbyChinesePeoplesArmedPolice(PAP).EveryentrancetothequarterfeaturesacheckpointmannedbyPAPpoliceinriotgearandcarryingAK47s,carbinesandotherheavyweapons.Itisnotpermittedtotakepicturesofthecheckpoints.InsidethequartertherearesurveillancecamerasandmorePAPoutposts.Policedetachmentsregularlymarchthroughtheareainashowofforce.PlainclothedPAParestationedonrooftopsthroughouttheTibetanquarteroftownduringdaylighthours,usuallyinpairs,observingpilgrimsandgenerallyseemingalerttoanysignsofprotest.OtherplainclothedpolicewerepresentinsidetemplesandintheBarkhor.Themaintenanceofsuchaheavy

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policepresenceishighlyunusualinChina,andspeakstotheimportancethelocalandnationalauthoritiesattachtopreventinganyrecurrenceofthe2008riots.WedidnotobservepolicestoppingpilgrimsorothersfromenteringtheTibetanquarter,nordidweobservethemsearchingthebelongingsofmerchantsorothersenteringtheBarkhorareawithbagsandcarts.Nonetheless,wegottheimpressionthattheriotpolicewerealerttoanypossibledisturbance,andwerepreparedtorespondpromptlyanddecisivelyifdirectedtodoso. IntensiveculturalrestorationandpreservationeffortsunderwayThedelegationhadtheopportunitytovisitseveralsitesofgreatreligiousandculturalsignificanceduringourtravelsintheTARandTibetanregionsoutsidetheTAR.Mostwerethrongedwithpilgrims,evidencethatTibetansremaindeeplyspiritualandthatforaverageTibetans,avisittoalocalshrineormonasteryremainsaregularfeatureoflife.Asalreadymentioned,weobservedcontrastsfromprovincetoprovince,andfromsitetosite.OurgeneralimpressionisthatthroughoutTibetanregionsofChina,therearemassiveinvestmentsbeingmadetorestoresitesofreligiousandhistoricalsignificance,andinsomecasesexpandthem.Someoftherestorationworkisbeingcarriedoutwithcentralgovernmentfunding,whileotherefforts,particularlyoutsideoftheTAR,arebeingprivatelyfinancedbydonorsandthroughtherevenuegeneratedbytourists.Officialsinchargeofculturalpreservationproudlyannouncedthatsince2001,thegovernmenthasspentmorethan1.4Byuan(morethan$200million)insidetheTARtohelpreconstructandrenovateculturalsitesdamagedduringtheCulturalRevolution.DuringtheCulturalRevolution,nearlyallreligioussitesinChinaexperiencedsomedamage,andthe6,000monasteriesofTibetweredevastated.SomeweredestroyedbyethnicHanRedGuards,butotherswerepillaged

andvandalizedbyTibetansthemselves,radicalizedunderMaoandencouragedbyofficialstoeliminateallvestigesoffeudaltimes.Today,hundredsofthosemonasterieshavebeenrebuilt.ThereconstructionatGandenMonasteryjustoutsideofLhasaleveledduringtheCulturalRevolutionhasbeenparticularlydramatic.

TemplebuildingunderreconstructionatSamyeMonasteryintheYarlungRivervalley.Samye,oneofTibetsoldestmonasteries,hasenjoyedamajorinfusionofgovernmentresourcesoverthepastfiveyears.(Jannuziphoto)

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InsidetheancientJokhangTemple,officialsinchargeofculturalpreservationprefertorenovateexistingstructuresratherthanbuildnewones,whereverpossible.Here,twoTibetancraftsmenrepairastructuralpillarmorethan300yearsoldbyhammeringfreshwoodintocracksandthenshapingthewoodtofit.(Jannuziphoto)AlthoughphysicallythemonasteriesofTibetarerecovering,spirituallyTibetsmonasticcommunitycontinuestolaborunderstrictrulesandofficialscrutiny.RegulationsgoverningTibetanBuddhismareadministeredbytheReligiousAffairsBureauofChina.[Ironically,noneoftheofficialswemetinchargeofculturalheritageorreligiousaffairs,eventhosewhowereTibetans,professedtobeBuddhists.AlthoughtheChineseconstitutionguaranteesfreedomofreligion,asapracticalmatternoonewhoisopenlyreligiouscanobtainahighgovernmentorpartyposition.]TheReligiousAffairsBureauandtheMinistryofPublicSecuritycarefullymonitorandcontrolmostmajorreligiousinstitutionsinsidetheTAR.Thegovernmentsupervisestheselectionofnewincarnatelamas,animportantpower,particularlysincetheheadofallfourofthemainschoolsofTibetanBuddhismarecurrentlylivinginexile.Thegovernmentalsorequiresmonkstogothroughpatrioticeducationprograms,althoughtheintensityandfrequencyofthesepropagandacampaignsvariesaccordingtolocalconditionsandtheenthusiasmoftheofficialschargedwithcarryingthemout.ThegovernmentprohibitsthedisplayofphotographsoftheDalaiLama,althoughmanymonasteriesignorethisrulewhen

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policearenotaround.Thegovernmentprohibitsyoungboysandgirls,thoseundertheageof18,frombecomingnovicesatmonasteriesandnunneries,althoughagain,therulesareappliedwithvaryingdegreesofrigorindifferentregions.Thegovernmentlimitsthenumberofmonkswhocanbeinresidenceatlargemonasteriesbyestablishingaquota,andattimesrestrictsthefreedomofmovementofreligiousleaders.Atallmajormonasteries,thegovernmenthassetupademocraticmanagementcommitteetoensurecompliancewithallapplicableregulations.Insomemonasteries,particularlyinandaroundLhasa,thegovernmenthasinstalledvideosurveillanceequipment.Insomecases,thegovernmenthasbuiltpolicestationsadjacenttomonasteries.Takentogether,theserulesandrestrictionsbreedresentmentandinterferewiththeabilityofTibetanBuddhiststoenjoythatfullmeasureofreligiousfreedompromisedthemunderArticle36ofChinasconstitutionandcalledforbyinternationalnormsthatChinahasatleastnominallypledgedtorespect.

Policevideocameras,suchasthisoneatSeraMonastery,adornmostoftheculturalsitesofsignificancearoundLhasa,butarerarelyseenatTibetanmonasteriesoutsidetheTAR.(Jannuziphoto)

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QinghaiandGansu:StilllandofnomadsOnlyabouthalfofallethnicTibetanslivinginsideChinaresideintheTibetAutonomousRegion.PerhapstwomillionTibetansliveinTibetanregionsofQinghai,Gansu,Sichuan,andYunnanProvincesinwesternChina.TheseTibetans,manyofthemseminomadicherders,someofthemfarmers,mostlyresideinTibetanAutonomousPrefectures,althoughsomecanbefoundin

majorurbanareassuchasChengduandKunming.OnthelastSFRCstaffdelegationtofocusonTibetanissuesin2002,stafffoundthatTibetansintheseprefecturesoftenenjoyedgreaterfreedomsthanthoselivinginsidetheTAR,andalsoseemedtohavemorevoiceovertheirownaffairsthanthoseTibetansinthesupposedlysemiautonomousTAR.Atthattime,travelintheAmdoregionastheeasternregionofTibetiscalledintheTibetanlanguagewasverydifficult.Mostroadswereunpaved,communicationsinfrastructurepoor,andaccessquiterestrictedbyChinesepublicsecurityforces.ThereturnvisittoAmdoprovidedpointsofcontrastandpointsofcontinuity.MostAmdoTibetansoutsidethenorthernedgeoftheTibetanAutonomousRegionarestillpoor,nomadicherdersorsubsistencefarmers,butarereapingsomeofthegainsofeconomicdevelopment.Newroadsstretchacrossthevalleys,powerlinesthreadoverhighmountainpasses,andcellphonewieldingyakherderswatchTVsoapoperasfromthecomfortoftheirgortents(thetraditionalroundtentmadeofwoolusedbyTibetannomadsforhundredsofyears).Higherpricesforagriculturalgoods,centralgovernmentsubsidies,religioustourism,andsoaringpaymentsforlocallyharvestedcaterpillarfungusarebringingnewsourcesofincometotheregion.Unfortunately,manyoftheseeconomicbenefitscontinuedisproportionatelytoaccruetoHanandHuiresidentsandmigrants,andlocaldevelopmentspecialistsworrythatTibetansareneglectingcraftskillsthathavetraditionallysustainedthemduringtimesofdifficulty.Further,Tibetannomadsarefailingtotakeadvantageofwindfallincomeandloanstoincreasetheiragriculturalproductivityorstartbusinesses.HousingbuiltbythegovernmenttosettleTibetannomadsinsmalltownsthroughouttheplateauisevident.Tibetanssaytheywelcomethesubsidizedhousingforuseinthewintermonths,butdonotplantogiveuptheirseminomadiclifestyle.

Powertransmissionlinescrossmountainpassesataltitudesinexcessof3,700metersinQinghaiandGansuProvinces.(Jannuziphoto)

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SignsofEconomicProgressIngeneral,TibetansinAmdostillhaveverylowincomes.Mostareseminomadicherdersorsubsistencefarmerssupplementingtheirincomesinthewinterwithmanuallabororsimpleservicesjobsinsmallmarketormonasterytowns.Theyare,however,enjoyingsomeofthebenefitsofeconomicdevelopmentandincreasedgovernmentspending.AmonkatthelargeLabrangMonasteryinGansuexplainedthatthemonasterysupportsmonksandstudentsfromfamiliesthataretoopoortoprovidebasicsubsistencefunds,butinrecentyearssuchcommunitysupportwasalmostcompletelyunnecessarysinceallofthesurroundingnomadfamilieswerenotrich,butnolongerpoor.

Theaveragefamilyhasroughly50headofyak,enoughtoliftmostoutofpoverty.(Jannuziphoto)Nomadsinterviewedonthehighplainswithoutexceptionconfirmedthattheywerefeelingsomeofthebenefitsofeconomicprogress.ATibetannomadresidinginatraditionalTibetangorintheZekuTibetanAutonomousPrefecturesaidthathis16personfamilyhad50headofyak,andthe4adultwomeninthefamilyeachhadseveralgoldcappedteeth.Mostnomadicfamilygroupsvisitedboastedsimilarherds,andteeth!AlmostallhadinvestedinasmallsolarpanelandgeneratorsetswhichprovidedenoughpowerforasmallTV.Wesawfamiliestravellingbetweengrazingsiteswithalloftheirpossessionspackedonthebackofyaks,includingthesolarpanelandgeneratorchargingtheirmoderncameraequippedcellphones.Traditionalmudwalledvillagessproutedsatellitedishesfrommostroofs,eveninremoteareas.

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Mobilesolarunit,costing$350,arefoundatmostgercamps.(Jannuziphoto)

Throughouttheregion,wenotednumerousroad,housing,andhydropowerprojects.ParticularlyintheareasdesignatedasTibetanautonomousdistricts,theroadswerenewandremarkablywellmaintained.Nationalandlocalstateownedpowercompanieswereinvestinginalargenumberofnewminihydroelectricplantsandsmallscalesolarenergyplantsdesignedtopowerlocalcommunities.Electricityandtelephonewiresstretchedover3700meterhighpasses,andpublicelectricpowerreachedupvalleystolonepermanentdwellings.Allofthelocalmonasteriesvisitedwerebuildingnewstupas,assemblyhalls,andresidences.

NewminihydropowerplantsaboundinwesternQinghaiandGansu.(Jannuziphoto)

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Highcommodityprices,governmentsubsidies,religioustourism,andfungusbringmoneyTheEuropeanheadofasmalllocalcraftcompanyexplainedthat,inpart,thenewfoundeconomiccomfortwastheresultofabettermarketfortheyakandsheepthatformthebasisofthelocaleconomy.However,otherfactorswerealsobringingnewmoneyintotheseremoteareas.Thenationalgovernmenthasprovidedlargesubsidiestobuildinfrastructuresuchasroadsandpowergeneratingfacilities.Morecontroversially,thegovernmentisbuildingahugenumberofhousesinthesmalltownstoencourageTibetannomadstomoveintomarkettowns.Inmanyareasthenumberofnewhousesequaledorexceededtheexistingtownhousingstock.Religioustourismappearstoconstituteanimportantsourceofincomeinthetownssurroundingimportantmonasteries.Notingthelargenewstupasunderconstruction,amonkattheWudunsiMonasteryinQinghaistatedthatthemoneycamefromprivatedonations,notgovernmentsubsidies.AnothermonkattheLabrangmonasterystatedthatmonkswereallowedtokeepalloftheproceedsfromadmissionstickets,andusethemtorepairandrebuildfacilities.Intheeasiertoreachmonasterieswithinadaystripofanairport,weencounteredgroupsofwelloffBuddhistpilgrimsfromTaiwan,Guangdong,andJapan.

PrivatelybuiltstupasawaitdedicationinRebgong,QinghaiProvince,centerofTibetanBuddhistart.(Jannuziphoto)

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TherisingpopularityandpricesofatraditionalTibetanmedicinecalledcaterpillarfungusisalsoincreasingtheincomesofTibetanslivinginsomeofthemostisolatedareas.Thefungus,whichgrowsonacaterpillarhostandisonlysuitableforharvestduringafewweeksinlatespringontheTibetanPlateau,isrecognizedinternationallyasanaturalViagra.RetailpricesinXiningcurrentlyrangeuptoRMB150(USD22)perstem,andaverageaboutRMB40(USD6)persmallunit.ATibetaneconomicdevelopmentspecialisttoldusthatagoodcollectorcouldgatheratleast50caterpillarsperdayattheheightoftheeightweekcollectingperiod.Heexplainedthatthistradewasprovidingimportantsupplementalincomeforherders,whonowoftenrentoutgatheringrightsontheirland.

HuigirlssortcaterpillarfungusinXining.Girlonrightisholding$100worthinherhand.(Jannuziphoto)

EconomicBenefitsflowtoHanandHuidisproportionatelyAlthoughnoTibetansthatwespoketocomplained,itwasapparentthattheeconomicdevelopmentinmostareasdisproportionatelybenefitednonTibetangroupsbasedoutsideoronthefringesoftheTibetanareas.AEuropeanNGOheadexplainedthatTibetanherderssoldmostoftheirlivestockandwoolthroughHuimiddlemeneachfallforaverylowreturn.Hestatedthat,whilesomefamiliesdidwell,thoseontheeconomicmarginsorwhohadexperiencedsomekindofdifficulty,orwhohadnosupplementalincome,hadtroubleevensubsisting.Attheinfrastructureprojects,alloftheskilledandsemiskilledlaborerswequestionedturnedouttobeHanmigrantsfromShanxi,Henan,Sichuan,orAnhuiprovinces,

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withlocalTibetansworkingasunskilledshovelslingers.Inthemonasterytowns,manyofthehotelsandrestaurantsfrequentedbytourgroupsareHanorHuiowned.Thecaterpillarfungustrade,likewise,isdominatedbyHantraders.AHanbusinessmanlastyearopenedafourstoryCaterpillarFungusMallinXining,capitalofQinghaiprovince,fortheuseofexclusivelyHandealers.TheTibetandevelopmentspecialistinparticularworriedaboutthepossibleimpactthefungustradeonlocalcommunities.Hestatedthatthepricewasveryunstable,andhaddroppedbyhalfin2009onlytoreboundin2010.Hesaidthat,inthedecadethatTibetanshadturnedtofunguscollecting,manyinmoreremoteareashadfailedtopassonthetraditionalcraftskillsthathadsustainedthemandsupplementedtheirincomesindifficulttimes.Forexample,manyTibetanstraditionallyworkedfortemplesinthewinter,carvingorpaintingdecorations.InGansu,weobservedTibetansdoingthistypeofwork,butinQinghaithecraftsmenwereallHanmigrantlaborers.Failuretoinvest,ormovetofindworkTheethnicallyTibetandevelopmentspecialistcomplainedthatneitherTibetannomads,northeirmoresettledfarmingcounterparts,havetheabilitytotakeadvantageofthemoneycominginfromhigheragriculturalpricesorthecaterpillartrade.Ratherthaninvestingthemoneyinbetterstockorequipment,heexplained,theTibetanstendtousethemoneytoworklessinthewinter.AnotherTibetanconfirmedthatmanyusetheincometogoonpilgrimage.Likewise,governmentschemestoencouragemicrofinanceandsmallbusinessloansarenotmetwithmuchenthusiasm.Thedevelopmentspecialistexplainedthatthefarmersandnomadshavenoexperiencewithbusinessesorfinancialplans,andalthoughstaterunbanksarewillingtoconsiderofferingsuchloans,fewcouldmakeenoughprofitfromthemtopaythemback.TheEuropeanbusinessmannotedthatTibetanyoungwomen,unliketheirHan

counterparts,arenotwillingtomovetotakefactoryjobs,eveninthesurroundingareas.Hesaidthattheywereneededathometoprovideelderandchildcare.ResettlementplansThegovernmentsnomadresettlementplansmetwithmixedreviewsontheground.TheEuropeanNGOheadexplainedthatthegovernmentsobjectiveistosettletheseminomadicpopulationspermanentlyintowns,andencouragethemtogiveuptheirherds.Accordingtohisunderstanding,thelocal

"Safeandcomfortable"housingdevelopmentinthegrasslandsofwesternQinghaiProvince.(Jannuziphoto)

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governmentistryingtoprovideserviceandconstructionjobsforthesenewresidentsinthetowns,althoughheexpresseddoubtthatsuitableemploymentcouldbefound.Nomadswhoweretoreceivenewhousingoftengreetedthenewswithenthusiasm.Theyalreadyownedpermanentwinterhousesinthemountainvalleys,andlikedtheideaofvirtuallyfreeresidencesclosetotown.Onenomadexplainedthathisfamilyplannedtousethegovernmentprovidedhouseformostofthefamilyinthewinter;onlyonemanintheclanwouldstayintheoldwinterhousetowatchthelivestock.Whenspringarrived,othermembersofthefamilywouldgraduallyreturntothegorsandtheirsummergrazinglandsinthemountains,leavingbehindonlytheelderlyandchildrenstillinschool.

ThousandsofmonksgatherinRebgongforacelebrationtodedicateanewprivatelyfinancedstupa.(Jannuziphoto)TibetanBuddhismoutsidetheTAROneofthemoredramaticcontrastsbetweenlifeinAmdoandconditionsinsidetheTARcanbefoundatthemonasteriesoftheregion.InsidetheTAR,manymonasteriesappeartodependongovernmentsubsidiestoperformrenovationsandrestorationsoffacilities,usingtheirownincomeonlytocoverbasicdailyexpenses.OutsidetheTAR,monasterieswevisitedrely

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principallyonprivateincome,generatedfromtourists,pilgrims,andwealthydonors,manyofthemHanChinese.InRebgong,aworldrenownedcenterofBuddhistartinQinghaiProvince,monasterieslookedpositivelyflushwithcash,muchofitgeneratedbythesaleofexquisiteThangkapaintingsthatroutinelysellfor$100to$500,butoutstandingexamplesofwhichcanfetchasmuchas$100,000inBeijing,Tokyo,orLondon.InsidetheTAR,officialscrutinyofmonasticlifeismuchmoreintensethaninAmdo.MonasterieswevisitedinTibethadvideosurveillance,plainclothespoliceofficers,orsecuritycheckpointsatentrances.WeneverobservedapictureoftheDalaiLamainsideTibet,andyoungmonks,belowtheageofabout16,werehardtofind.AtdozensofmonasterieswevisitedinAmdo,securityforces,andtheirvideosurveillanceequipmentandcheckpoints,werenoticeablyabsent.OutsideoftheTAR,weobservedsomepicturesoftheDalaiLama,andyoungnovices,someonly5or6yearsold,participatedinliteracy,dance,andmusicextracurricularstudieswhilealsoattendingnormalpublicschool.SomeMonksquestionedaboutissuesrelatedtoreligiousexpressionexplainedthatduringthe2008riots,largenumbersofmonkshadbeendetainedforadayortwoandquestionedbyauthorities,andallhadundergoneintensivepatrioteducationcampaignssubsequenttotheviolence,whichdidextendintomanypartsofAmdo.Butoverthepastyear,thesituationhadstabilized.Patrioteducationhadslackened,religiouslifeatthemonasterieshadreturnedmostlytonormal.Weobservedmonksengagedinawiderangeofreligiousactivities

philosophyclasses,debates,danceandmusicpractice,pilgrimage,instructionforyoungmonks,andescortingvisitors.Manyofthemonasterieswevisitedhadincreasedthenumberofmonksinresidenceinrecentyears,buildingnewhousingorrenovatingexistinghousestoaccommodatetheinflux.AtLabrangMonastery,weweretoldthat3,000monksarenowstudyingupfromonlyabout1,200in2002,althoughagovernmentimposedquotastilllimitsthenumberofmonkswhocanberesidentatLabrang.AskedwhythesituationinAmdowasbetterthanthatinsidetheTAR,monksandotherTibetanswithwhomwespokequicklyanswered,Becausehere(meaningintheirTibetansemiautonomousprefecturesorlocalmunicipalities),manyoftheauthoritiesareTibetanandtheyunderstandus.

Photographsareofthe14thDalaiLama,whofledChinain1959,canbefoundoutsidetheTAR,butveryrarelyinsideit.(Jannuziphoto)

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ConclusionOverthecourseofourbriefvisittoTibetandTibetanregionsofwesternChina,stafffoundthatthesituationdefiessimpleexplanation.Rapideconomicdevelopmenthasproducedrealimprovementsinthequalityoflife,liftinghundredsofthousandsofTibetansoutofpovertyandbringingnewopportunitiestomostoftheresidentsoftherooftopoftheworld.InfrastructureimprovementsnotonlyserveChinesenationalsecurityneeds,butalsoallowgoodstotraveltomarket,studentstoreachschools,anddoctorstotreatthesick.HydroandsolarpowerplantsareelectrifyingtheTibetanplateau,givinghumbleyakherdersaccesstosatellitetelevisionandcellphoneswithdigitalcameras.Tibetansarelivinglonger,healthier,andmoreproductivelives.AsTibetisintegratedintomodernChina,TibetansareenjoyingnewopportunitiesinChinaandevenabroad,andmanyareseizingthem.ButmodernitybringsstressestotheancientTibetanculture.Environmentaldamagefromsmogandwaterpollutionaccompaniesdevelopment.Varioussocialills,fromdrugstoprostitution,areflowingintoTibetalongwithmigrantlaborers.GrowingincomeinequalitiespresentinotherpartsofChinaarebeingrepeatedinTibet.Preservingancientways,fromBuddhistteachingsandarttostoneconstructionmethods,canbedifficultgiventheinfluxofChinesecultureandthelureofgetrichquickschemessuchasforagingforcaterpillarfungus.AndasTibeturbanizes,aseminomadicwayoflifeisunderthreat,notonlyfromChinesepoliciesdesignedtofencethefrontier,butalsofromthesimplefactthatlifeonthegrasslandsishardcomparedwithlifeinthecity.Apartfromthechallengesofcopingwithmodernity,Tibetansalsoliveunderapoliticalsystemthattoooftenaffordsthemlittlerealpowerovertheirownaffairs.Infact,theresidentsoftheTibetAutonomousRegionandthesemiautonomousTibetanprefecturesofWesternChinaarguablyenjoylessautonomythantheirfellowcitizensinotherpartsofChina.EthnicHanChineseofficialscontinuetodominatedecisionmakingonmostmattersofconsequence,fromquestionsofeconomicdevelopmenttothecurriculumtobeusedinschools.ShortlyafterwereturnedfromTibet,thousandsofTibetansralliedpeacefullyinQinghaiProvinceandinBeijingtourgethegovernmenttopreservetheteachingofTibetanlanguageinschools,expressingadesirethatposesadilemmaforeducationofficialswhowanttoprepareTibetanstudentsforcareersforwhichfluencyinMandarinwillbeessential.ResolvingsuchpolicydilemmastothesatisfactionofTibetansismadeinfinitelymoredifficultbythefactthatChineseauthoritiestoooftendenyTibetanstheopportunitytoparticipatemeaningfullyingovernancedecisions.WhenTibetansareinvolved,inpositionsofrealresponsibility,thepoliciesadoptedbythegovernment,andtheirimplementation,aredemonstrablymoresuccessful.

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Duringourvisit,weencouragedourChineseandTibetancounterpartstothinkcreativelyabouthowChinaandtheUnitedStatesmightworktogethertoachievegreatersuccessintheareasofsustainableeconomicdevelopment,environmentalprotection,andculturalpreservationinTibetanregionsofChina.Manyofficialsandordinarypeoplewithwhomwemetexpressedenthusiasmforsuchcollaboration,althoughothersexpressedskepticismaboutwhetheritwasfeasiblegivencontinuingChinesesensitivitiesaboutforeigninvolvementinChinasinternalaffairs.ThefewnongovernmentalorganizationsoperatinginTibetorTibetanregionsdosonowbykeepingalowprofileonsensitiveissueshumanrights,religiousfreedomandbycultivatingcloseworkingrelationshipswithlocalofficials.ItisnotclearwhethertheycouldscaleuptheirworkwithoutasignificantcommitmenttosuchcollaborationfromauthoritiesbothinBeijingandinTibetanareas.OfficialsinBeijingacknowledgedthatthegovernmentfaceschallengesinTibet,andthateconomicdevelopmentaloneisnotsufficienttobuildaharmoniousChina.FosteringharmonyathomeandabroadisacentralgoaloftheCommunistPartyarticulatedbyPresidentHuJintao.ForTibettothrive,ChinamustensurethatTibetanshaveequalopportunity,thattheyparticipatefullyintheregionseconomicgrowth,thatthefragileenvironmentisprotectedforfuturegenerations,andthattheuniqueTibetancultureispreservedanditsrelicssensitivelyrestoredandprotected.TheseobjectivesarenotalientotheChinesegovernment.Infact,theyappeartobeintegraltotheFifthTibetWorkPlanrecentlyadoptedbytheChineseCommunistPartyandthecentralgovernment.Butputtingwordsonpaperiseasierthancraftingandimplementingpoliciestocarrythemout.ItremainstobeseenwhetherChinawilllearnfromitsownsuccessesinpartsoftheTibetanworld,districtswhereithasaffordedTibetansgreaterlatitudetomanagetheirownaffairs,andapplythoselessonstotheTibetAutonomousRegionitself.ItalsoremainstobeseenwhetherBeijingwillfindaroadforwardinitshaltingdialoguewiththeDalaiLamaandTibetanslivinginexile.Afternineroundsofofficialdialogueovereightyears,thetwosideshavenarrowedsomedifferences,butachasmofmistruststillseparatesthem.ChinaviewstheaspirationsoftheDalaiLamaforgenuineautonomyfortheTibetanpeopleascodeforindependence.ChineseofficialsareespeciallyleeryofproposalsbytheDalaiLamasrepresentativestoincludeallofculturalTibet,includingnotonlytheTAR,butalsoTibetanregionsofotherprovinces,withintheframeworkofthereconciliationdialogue.BeijingseesthisasanattempttoredrawChinaspoliticalboundaries.Fortheirpart,TibetansinexilemistrustBeijingsintentions,fearingthatChinaonlywantstorunouttheclockwiththeDalaiLamawhilecompletingthefullintegrationofTibetintoChina.

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ThestaffdelegationurgedtheChinesegovernmenttoengageinasinceredialoguewithTibetansinexile,andweattemptedtocorrectsomemisimpressionsweheardwhileinTibet.Weweretold,forinstance,thefollowing:thattheDalaiLamadoesnotacknowledgeimprovementsinlivingstandardsforTibetans(false);andthattheDalaiLamadoesnotacknowledgethatTibetisapartofChina(alsofalse).EvenastheUnitedStatesencouragesreconciliationtalksbetweentheDalaiLamaandBeijing,however,webelievethatWashingtonshouldtakestepstoestablishjointprojects.Theseshoulddrawontheexpertiseofmanyparties,includingevenTibetansinexile,andpromoteabetterlifeforTibetansinsideChina.TheseprojectscouldthemselvesfacilitatethedialogueandreconciliationprocessbyexpandingtrustanddemonstratingthevalueoftappingintooutsideexpertisetoaddresssomeofthemyriadchallengesconfrontingTibet.

PilgrimsandtouristscircumambulateclockwisearoundtheJokhangTemple,TibetanBuddhismsmostholyshrine,passingnumeroussmallstallssellingsouvenirsandhandicrafts.(Jannuziphoto)