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Tips & Techniques for a Healthy, Beautiful Lawn
Kate Painter, PhDExtension EducatorBoundary County
Boundary County ExtensionBonners Ferry, Idaho
June 1, 2017
Jack Zimmer, PhDPineview Horticultural
ServicesHayden, ID
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Tips & Techniques for a Healthy, Beautiful Lawn
Basics by season Soils & Fertility Mowing Dethatching &
Aeration Irrigation Weed Control Pests & Disease
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How to Care for Your Lawn - The Basics
https://youtu.be/EzC9dTZ_3KE?list=PLCCD01947924D334B
Source: Utah State University
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Choosing an appropriate variety for your lawn
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Turf species and varieties adapted to this area:
Kentucky bluegrass Perennial ryegrassCreeping red fescueChewings fescue Perennial ryegrassTall fescue Bentgrass
See EB0482E Home Lawns for characteristics of each variety.
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Kentucky Bluegrass
Boat shaped leaf
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Perennial Ryegrass
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Fine FescueCreeping Red Fescue
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Tall fescue in a Ryegrass/KBG Lawn
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High Maintenance LawnsRequire regular fertility, irrigation,and weed control
Frequent mowingTypical varieties: Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, tall fescue, bentgrass
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Low Maintenance Lawns
Minimal mowingMinimal fertilityMinimal moistureTypical varieties: Creeping red fescueChewings fescue Sheep fescueHard fescueReclamation species
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Soil: What’s your type? A quick way to
find out about the soil in your yard is to use the USDA’s Web Soil Survey tool (just search for Web Soil Survey)
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Easy method for determining soil structure: Add water and shake! The layers will be fairly obvious after a day.
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Jar method for determining soil texture: Procedure
Shake well in a jar or tube with straight sides.• After 90 seconds mark where the
settling point is; this is sand fraction.• Let sit for 2 hours and mark the next
point were settling has occurred, between these two marks is the siltfraction.
• Let sit overnight or even for two days and mark the top point of settling, this is clay between the last two marks.
• The color of the remaining water is a visual indication of the amount of organic matter; darker water is an indicator of higher organic matter.
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Determine the intersect for the three components using the following figure.
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Sandy loam soils are ideal for lawns 60-70% sand 30-40% silt plus clayAdditions of organic matter are
recommended for clay soils or soils with more than 40% silt plus clay Compost, manure, peat moss, ground bark,
sawdust Beware of weed seeds in compost and manure!
Work about 2 inches of organic matter into the top 6-8 inches of soil before planting
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Fertilizing your lawn
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Fertilizing your lawn: NitrogenGives plants a dark green
color Promotes blade and leaf
development Improves the overall quality
and density of the lawn, including the root system.
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See North Idaho Fertilizer Guide handout for more information on fertilizers.
Fertilizing your lawn: Phosphorus Promotes early development of
plants and hastens maturityDevelops roots and rhizomes Phosphorus that is not
immediately used by the plant is bound to the soil and is slowly metered out to the plant over time.
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Fertilizing your lawn: Potassium (Potash) Provides for the overall health and
vigor of the plant Provides for amino acid and
protein production in the plant Increases hardiness of turf
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Minor Elements
Some soils in the Northwest are short in minor elements. These include:1. Calcium2. Sulphur – often deficient in N ID3. Magnesium4. Copper5. Zinc6. Boron7. Manganese8. Molybdenum
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IronNot always available in sufficient or plant available
forms In some cases it is bound to the soil
Good for moss control Immediate results!
Non-staining forms are available Sidewalks and concrete will need to be cleaned after
applying regular iron fertilizer
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Slow vs immediate release fertilizers Standard fertilizers have no
slow release component and are released immediately.
Standard fertilizers usually last no longer than 4 weeks.
Slow release fertilizers are prilled and allow for timed release.
Slow release fertilizers last about12-16 weeks.
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Soil testing for North Idaho Lawns Soil testing is recommended
when establishing a new lawn or every 10 years for an established lawn
Sample soil to a depth of 6” for new lawns and 6-8” for established lawns
Randomly collect 15 to 20 cores in a clean plastic or stainless container
Stay away from unusual areas, yard edges, and tree canopies
Mix samples thoroughly and submit your sample to a soil testing lab
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Fall Lawn Fertilization
Strengthens root systems Promotes new blades, tillering Good plant health going into winter intensifies
color and builds a healthier lawn that is more disease resistant and able to outcompete weeds
Apply between Sept 1 and Oct 15 Use a balanced formula with slow release
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Spring Lawn Fertilization
Helps plants grow! Use relatively high nitrogen, immediate release
formulation High iron formulas will control moss and provide a vibrant
color High iron formulas will stain your sidewalks and cement! Clean after application unless a no-stain formula is used
Apply in late April to mid May Adjust depending upon moisture and temperature conditions
Use approximately 5 lb per 1,000 ft. 2 Even application is important to achieve uniform results! Apply half traveling in one direction and half in the other
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Pineview fertilizers (available at North 40)
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Summer Lawn Fertility
Varies depending on conditions If yellowing occurs, fertilizer is typically needed Primarily for maintenance of color and health during summer
stress Typically recommended in June – July Use a slow release formulation Approximately 5 lb per 1,000 ft. 2
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Organic Fertilizers
COMPONENTS;1. COMPOST2. ANIMAL WASTES3. MILORGANITE4. HUMATES5. WORM CASTINGS6. FEATHER MEAL7. COTTONSEED MEAL.8. OTHERS
Not necessarily safer than inorganic fertilizers! They can also be misused.Manures can contain excessive salts and weed seedsThey do increase organic matter, which is a big plus!
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MowingMaintain mowing height at 2.5-3 inches.
Allows for maximum health of plant in normal and stress periods.
Alternate cutting patterns.Mulching vs. Bagging: See handout
Maintain sharp blades. Dull blades tear the grass and allow pathogens to enter.
Cut only 1/3 of the blade in any one cutting
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Rejuvenation of existing lawnsMow existing lawn as short as possible. Verticut thatch to 1/4-1/2 inch in depth Sweep debris off of lawn Broadcast seed at 4-5 lbs per 1000 square feet Fertilize with 18-10-10 @ 5 lb per 1000 square feetWater lightly and frequentlyMow at 2-3 inches in height Fertilize again 30-60 days after initial application
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Verticutting Verticutting is done using a machine much like a lawn mower except that it has
many vertical blades instead of two horizontal blades. This machine is designed to cut small grooves in the lawn down through the
thatch layer allowing the seed to drop into the soil. This will give you long lines of grass growing up through the thatch layer. This is
a good way to seed in very thin and bare areas.
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Slit-seeding machine: verticuts & seeds
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Seeding bare patches
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Scarifying: Removing thatch
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Scarifying: Removing thatch
Frequency depends on species.
Bluegrass and ryegrass have less thatch build-up than fine fescues.
Thatching removes excessive “dead” plant material that ties up nutrients and moisture and also harbors insects.
Timing is critical.
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Scarifying
Ideally done as early as possible in the spring to allow the lawn to recover and begin its growth cycle.
Remove thatch as quickly as possible.
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Core aerationNeeded when soil becomes
compacted.Allows for movement of
moisture and fertility into the soil profile.
Best done in the spring of the year.
Usually completed once every two to three years, depending on traffic.
Removal or non-removal of cores, depending on situation.
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Benefits of aerating your soil
The process of aerating your lawn consists of punching holes in the lawn about ¾ “ around and 3” deep.
Allows soil to expand and reduce compaction from traffic and heat.
Better root development. Aeration also helps control thatch
buildup by bringing cores of soil back up to the surface and having them filter back down into the thatch layer.
This adds microbes to the thatch which speeds up its decomposition. It’s like composting your grass clippings.
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Core aerator machine
ALWAYS CLEAN AERATOR BEFORE USE TO PREVENT SPREADING DISEASES.
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Irrigation
Correct watering is essential to growth of the turf from seedling to mature lawn.
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IrrigationWater plays an important role in the following: 1. Germination 2. Tissue growth 3. Photosynthesis 4. Temperature control 5. Nutrient transportation 6. Turgidity – bouncing back from traffic
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Water usageDetermined by the following: 1. Species of turfgrass 2. Climatic factors 3. Rate of growth 4. The environment 5. Frequency and height of mowing 6. Soil type and conditions.
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Determination of watering frequency INDICATORS:
Footprinting disappears slowly Indicator spots – dry spots with shallow soil
that turn a dark bluish green Presence of high temperature and wind Soil moisture probes provide measurement of
soil moisture, salinity (EC) and temperatureTensiometers measure soil moisture tension
and provides data on plant available waterTuna can measurement: place several around
your yard to measure weekly irrigation50
Soil moisture probes provide measurement of soil moisture, salinity (EC) and temperature
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Quantities of water to applyGuide is usually 1-1.5 inches per week. Best to wet entire rootzone – deeper is better.Deep watering allows roots to grow and increases
health of plants. Subsequent watering is based on water use and
drainage. Longer and less frequent sets are better Established lawns with good soil can be watered 3
times per week for a total of 1.5 inches of waterNew lawns may need to be watered up to 4 times per
day for 10-15 minutes each time!
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Weed Control Compete with grass for moisture and fertility May grow in areas of the land with less favorable growing conditions
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BLACK MEDIC
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WHITE CLOVER
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SPURGE
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PURSLANE
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PINEAPPLE WEED
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PLANTAIN
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OXALIS
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MOUSE EARRED CHICKWEED
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MOSS
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MALLOW
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KNOTWEED
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GROUND IVY
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CRABGRASS
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MULLEIN
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CONTROL OF WEEDS Broadleaf weeds can be controlled with 2,4-D derivatives.
VesselTM is a very effective product of this type
For tough to control weeds such as annual bluegrass, bentgrass, crabgrass, and wild violet, use Tenacity at a rate of 1 tsp to 2 gal. of water. It’s expensive though!
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CONTROL OF WEEDS Pull them! It’s good exercise! Use a weeding tool if you have arthritis
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Lawn Diseases
Luckily they are not too common in this region!Most are caused by parasitic fungi.All of the following factors must be present: Host plant Disease organism Method of distribution Proper conditions: Temperature Moisture Stress
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Control lawn diseases with good lawn maintenance
Use disease resistant varieties for your areaUse proper mowing heightUse sharp mower bladesAim to water deeplyAppropriate timing of wateringAppropriate fertilizationDe-thatching as necessaryChemical controls as last resort!!
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DOG PATCH
Dilute the impact with water as soon as possible. Reseed if necessary. Don’t believe the home remedies!
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DOLLAR SPOT
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POWDERY MILDEW
This disease will go away by itself in about 2 weeks.74
Fairy Rings
Mushrooms that develop in a ring in the lawn are called fairy rings
These fungi can cause the development of rings or arcs of deep green grass as well as unthrifty or dead grass when the mycelia get very dense.
A practical management method is to poke all around the ring with a garden fork and water heavily. Use a surfactant (dish soap works).
Fairy ring development can be traced to buried organic debris. Undecomposed tree roots, wood scraps from construction projects, and other organic debris are commonly colonized by the fairy ring fungi and should be removed before establishing a new lawn.
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Necrotic Ring Spot Effects mostly bluegrass with some
impact on fine fescues and annual bluegrass.
Best Control – Mow area short, remove soil to 4” below, fill hole with compost, reseed with Perennial Ryegrass.
Some chemical control – Heritage or Headway.
Can be spread by contaminated aerators!
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SNOW MOLD
• Can be white or pink• Will typically go away on its own after a couple of weeks• You can spray it with a fungicide that has snow mold on
the label to get rid of it
RED THREAD
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• Impacts perennial ryegrass.• Creates a web of dead grass.• Can be controlled with nitrogen fertilizer:
20-0-0, 10 lb per 5000 sq. ft.
RUST IN LAWNS
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Common in Kentucky bluegrassMost varieties are now resistant
SNOW MOLD IN TURF
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INSECT DAMAGE
UNDERGROUND FEEDING INSECTS DO DAMAGE BY CHEWING OFF THE ROOTS OF THE
PLANTS EXAMPLES: WHITE GRUBS & BILLBUG GRUBS
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BILLBUG
White Grub Damage
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SURFACE FEEDING INSECTS
Chewing insects At or above the soil surface Chew the side of blades Chew entire plants off at the crown Cutworms, sod webworms
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SOD WEBWORM
CUTWORM
Many products are available for control, once the pest has been properly identified.
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SUCKING INSECTS SUCK AND EXTRACT FLUIDS FROM GRASS PLANTS Examples include leafhoppers and crane flies
86 LEAF HOPPER
CRANE FLY
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Thank you!
Kathleen Painter, PhDAg Extension Educator
Office: (208) 267-3235 Cell: (509) 432-5755
Email: [email protected]: boundaryagblog.wordpress.com
http://www.extension.uidaho.edu/boundary89