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HKD40 | MOP40 | RMB42 | NTD180 | SGD8 | USD6 | £4 tasting kitchen #4 nov 2012 HONG KONG & MACAU White Truffles 白松露,厨房里的鑽石 CENTRAL Amber Center Stage 中央舞台 MACAU Haute Chocolate 頂級藝術巧克力饗宴

TK04 November 2012 • WhiteTruffles

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White Truffles 白松露,厨房里的鑽石 Amber Center Stage 中央舞台 Haute Chocolate 頂級藝術巧克力饗宴

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Page 1: TK04 November 2012 • WhiteTruffles

HKD40 | MOP40 | RMB42 | NTD180 | SGD8 | USD6 | £4

t a s t i n g k i t c h e n # 4 • n o v 2 0 1 2

Hong Kong & Macau White Truffles 白松露,厨房里的鑽石

central Amber Center Stage 中央舞台

Macau Haute Chocolate 頂級藝術巧克力饗宴

TK04_00_Cover-FINAL_CVAPDF_ZZ.indd 1 12年11月3日 下午3:05

RIght thIs way

want to dIne wIth the staRs ?

TK04_AD_Lisboa_197x283_7APDF_ZZ.indd 1 12年11月3日 下午4:43

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TK magazine Hong Kong - Sept 2012_205x283_R.ai 1 8/24/12 12:18 PM

San_PellTK magazine Hong Kong - Sept 2012_205x283_R_7APDF_ZZ.indd 1 12年8月29日 上午12:59

Page 2: TK04 November 2012 • WhiteTruffles

午餐 Lunch: 12:00 noon - 2:30 pm 

晚餐 Dinner: 6:30 pm - 10:30 pm 

訂座 Reservations: (853) 8803 7878

午餐 Lunch: 12:00 noon - 2:30 pm 

晚餐 Dinner: 6:30 pm - 10:30 pm 

訂座 Reservations: (853) 8803 7788

訂座 Reservations: (853) 8803 3677訂座 Reservations: (853) 8803 7777

Setting the StanDaRD FoR Dining寰宇食府匯聚 極品佳餚薈萃

The Lisboa Hotels is the only complex in the world with three Michelin-starred restaurants under one roof.

It is also the first establishment in China to receive the Wine Spectator’s Grand Award.

Housing an extensive wine collection of over 8,600 labels, the Lisboa Hotels Complex boasts one of the finest wine cellars in Asia.

全球唯一擁有三間米芝蓮星級餐廳的葡京綜合城,酒庫內珍藏超過8,600多款各國名酒佳釀,

並替中國區贏得首個世界酒評權威Wine Spectator榮譽大獎「Grand Award」的殊榮。

澳門葡京綜合城旗下寰宇頂尖食府匯聚,美酒佳餚薈萃。

www.grandlisboahotel.com | www.hotelisboa.com

午餐 Lunch: 12:00 noon - 2:30 pm 

晚餐 Dinner: 6:30 pm - 10:30 pm 

訂座 Reservations: (853) 8803 7722

午餐 Lunch: 12:00 noon - 2:30 pm 

晚餐 Dinner: 6:30 pm - 10:30 pm 

午餐 Lunch: 12:00 noon - 2:30 pm 

晚餐 Dinner: 6:30 pm - 10:30 pm 

午餐 Lunch: 12:00 noon - 2:30 pm 

晚餐 Dinner: 6:30 pm - 10:30 pm 

訂座 Reservations: (853) 8803 7676

MicheLin米芝蓮

StaRS

Le Caviar魚子醬拼盤

Stir-fried Lobster with Egg, Minced Pork and Black Bean

廣東式炒龍蝦

MicheLin米芝蓮

StaRS

TK04_AD_Lisboa_399x283_7APDF_ZZ 2.indd 1 12年11月3日 下午4:43

午餐 Lunch: 12:00 noon - 2:30 pm 

晚餐 Dinner: 6:30 pm - 10:30 pm 

訂座 Reservations: (853) 8803 7878

午餐 Lunch: 12:00 noon - 2:30 pm 

晚餐 Dinner: 6:30 pm - 10:30 pm 

訂座 Reservations: (853) 8803 7788

訂座 Reservations: (853) 8803 3677訂座 Reservations: (853) 8803 7777

Setting the StanDaRD FoR Dining寰宇食府匯聚 極品佳餚薈萃

The Lisboa Hotels is the only complex in the world with three Michelin-starred restaurants under one roof.

It is also the first establishment in China to receive the Wine Spectator’s Grand Award.

Housing an extensive wine collection of over 8,600 labels, the Lisboa Hotels Complex boasts one of the finest wine cellars in Asia.

全球唯一擁有三間米芝蓮星級餐廳的葡京綜合城,酒庫內珍藏超過8,600多款各國名酒佳釀,

並替中國區贏得首個世界酒評權威Wine Spectator榮譽大獎「Grand Award」的殊榮。

澳門葡京綜合城旗下寰宇頂尖食府匯聚,美酒佳餚薈萃。

www.grandlisboahotel.com | www.hotelisboa.com

午餐 Lunch: 12:00 noon - 2:30 pm 

晚餐 Dinner: 6:30 pm - 10:30 pm 

訂座 Reservations: (853) 8803 7722

午餐 Lunch: 12:00 noon - 2:30 pm 

晚餐 Dinner: 6:30 pm - 10:30 pm 

午餐 Lunch: 12:00 noon - 2:30 pm 

晚餐 Dinner: 6:30 pm - 10:30 pm 

午餐 Lunch: 12:00 noon - 2:30 pm 

晚餐 Dinner: 6:30 pm - 10:30 pm 

訂座 Reservations: (853) 8803 7676

MicheLin米芝蓮

StaRS

Le Caviar魚子醬拼盤

Stir-fried Lobster with Egg, Minced Pork and Black Bean

廣東式炒龍蝦

MicheLin米芝蓮

StaRS

午餐 Lunch: 12:00 noon - 2:30 pm 

晚餐 Dinner: 6:30 pm - 10:30 pm 

訂座 Reservations: (853) 8803 7878

午餐 Lunch: 12:00 noon - 2:30 pm 

晚餐 Dinner: 6:30 pm - 10:30 pm 

訂座 Reservations: (853) 8803 7788

訂座 Reservations: (853) 8803 3677訂座 Reservations: (853) 8803 7777

Setting the StanDaRD FoR Dining寰宇食府匯聚 極品佳餚薈萃

The Lisboa Hotels is the only complex in the world with three Michelin-starred restaurants under one roof.

It is also the first establishment in China to receive the Wine Spectator’s Grand Award.

Housing an extensive wine collection of over 8,600 labels, the Lisboa Hotels Complex boasts one of the finest wine cellars in Asia.

全球唯一擁有三間米芝蓮星級餐廳的葡京綜合城,酒庫內珍藏超過8,600多款各國名酒佳釀,

並替中國區贏得首個世界酒評權威Wine Spectator榮譽大獎「Grand Award」的殊榮。

澳門葡京綜合城旗下寰宇頂尖食府匯聚,美酒佳餚薈萃。

www.grandlisboahotel.com | www.hotelisboa.com

午餐 Lunch: 12:00 noon - 2:30 pm 

晚餐 Dinner: 6:30 pm - 10:30 pm 

訂座 Reservations: (853) 8803 7722

午餐 Lunch: 12:00 noon - 2:30 pm 

晚餐 Dinner: 6:30 pm - 10:30 pm 

午餐 Lunch: 12:00 noon - 2:30 pm 

晚餐 Dinner: 6:30 pm - 10:30 pm 

午餐 Lunch: 12:00 noon - 2:30 pm 

晚餐 Dinner: 6:30 pm - 10:30 pm 

訂座 Reservations: (853) 8803 7676

MicheLin米芝蓮

StaRS

Le Caviar魚子醬拼盤

Stir-fried Lobster with Egg, Minced Pork and Black Bean

廣東式炒龍蝦

MicheLin米芝蓮

StaRS

午餐 Lunch: 12:00 noon - 2:30 pm 

晚餐 Dinner: 6:30 pm - 10:30 pm 

訂座 Reservations: (853) 8803 7878

午餐 Lunch: 12:00 noon - 2:30 pm 

晚餐 Dinner: 6:30 pm - 10:30 pm 

訂座 Reservations: (853) 8803 7788

訂座 Reservations: (853) 8803 3677訂座 Reservations: (853) 8803 7777

Setting the StanDaRD FoR Dining寰宇食府匯聚 極品佳餚薈萃

The Lisboa Hotels is the only complex in the world with three Michelin-starred restaurants under one roof.

It is also the first establishment in China to receive the Wine Spectator’s Grand Award.

Housing an extensive wine collection of over 8,600 labels, the Lisboa Hotels Complex boasts one of the finest wine cellars in Asia.

全球唯一擁有三間米芝蓮星級餐廳的葡京綜合城,酒庫內珍藏超過8,600多款各國名酒佳釀,

並替中國區贏得首個世界酒評權威Wine Spectator榮譽大獎「Grand Award」的殊榮。

澳門葡京綜合城旗下寰宇頂尖食府匯聚,美酒佳餚薈萃。

www.grandlisboahotel.com | www.hotelisboa.com

午餐 Lunch: 12:00 noon - 2:30 pm 

晚餐 Dinner: 6:30 pm - 10:30 pm 

訂座 Reservations: (853) 8803 7722

午餐 Lunch: 12:00 noon - 2:30 pm 

晚餐 Dinner: 6:30 pm - 10:30 pm 

午餐 Lunch: 12:00 noon - 2:30 pm 

晚餐 Dinner: 6:30 pm - 10:30 pm 

午餐 Lunch: 12:00 noon - 2:30 pm 

晚餐 Dinner: 6:30 pm - 10:30 pm 

訂座 Reservations: (853) 8803 7676

MicheLin米芝蓮

StaRS

Le Caviar魚子醬拼盤

Stir-fried Lobster with Egg, Minced Pork and Black Bean

廣東式炒龍蝦

MicheLin米芝蓮

StaRS

Lisboa_Due199.5x283_7APDF_ZZ.indd 2 12年8月29日 上午1:13

the Lisboa ceLLars葡京酒窖

The Lisboa Cellars boasts one of the finest wine collections in the world with over 8,600 labels,

of which over 900 are rated 95 – 100 and about 3,000 are rated 90 – 94 by Wine Spectator.

Indulge yourself at any of the dining establishments within the Lisboa Hotels Complex

where culinary artistry is matched with the finest wines.

葡京酒窖內珍藏多達8,600款各國名酒佳釀,當中超過900多款被世界酒評權威

「Wine Spectator」評為95 – 100分,另外更有約3,000款被評為 90 – 94 分。

葡京綜合城旗下寰宇頂尖食府匯聚,美酒佳餚薈萃。

www.grandlisboahotel.com | www.hotelisboa.com

TK04_AD_Lisboa_205x283_7APDF_ZZ.indd 1 12年11月3日 下午4:42

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TK04_AD_PJ-ad-410x283_7APDF_ZZ.indd 1 12年11月5日 下午2:58TK04_AD_PJ-ad-410x283_7APDF_ZZ.indd 2 12年11月5日 下午2:58

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The flavors and aromas of Brittany blue lobster, celeriac mash, foie gras and shaved white truffle intermingle and intensify in The Tasting Room's covered glass bowls

until the guests themselves lift the lids to breathe in the complex bouquet.

法国布列塔尼蓝龙虾、芹菜根蓉、鹅肝酱,铺上少许白松露薄片,御膳房特制的

玻璃盖碗使这些美味及香气交织而愈加浓郁。只要掀开盖子,立刻香气扑鼻。

starter

TK04_04_Starter_7APDF_ZZ.indd 4 12年11月3日 下午3:27bollinger_ad_v2.0_op-01TK_7APDF_ZZ.indd 1 12年8月29日 上午1:08

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on our coverThe Alba white truffle on the cover was

photographed at L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon

in Hong Kong.

封面的阿爾巴白松露之后攝於香港

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon法国餐廳 。

on page 8Alba white truffles with ovoli mushrooms

(阿爾巴白松露之后与Ovoli蘑菇),

by Chef Umberto Bombana.

Photographs by David Hartung

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen.

It’s truffle season, and

in this, our fourth issue,

we’re serving up white truffle

dishes from cover to cover,

all prepared by some of Hong

Kong and Macau’s most

talented chefs.

Our starter is a

luxurious combination of

lobster, foie gras and truffles.

Our entrée selections pair the

famously aromatic fungus with eggs and quail and cheese and

ravioli. Save room for dessert – it’s a cream-and-truffles-and-

biscotto extravaganza created especially for Tasting Kitchen.

Truffle season doesn’t last long, so it feels right to binge

a little. But man cannot live on truffles alone. We’ve also got

chocolate, a deconstructed daiquiri, mulled wine, Japanese

kaiseki, dreamy good tempura with sake, salmon six ways with

Aquavit, and some of the very best French food in Asia, cooked

by a Dutchman.

It’s an issue filled to bursting with delicious food and

drink. Enjoy!

editor’s note

n o v 2 0 1 2 • I s s u e # 4

w h I t e t r u f f l e s

A member of Ignite Media Group (Hong Kong) Limited

Tasting Kitchen7A, 22/F, Kodak House II39 Healthy East Street Quarry Bay, Hong Kong

Tel: +852 2642 0008

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Delta’s finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food.

Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the region has to offer.

Jeff HammonsEDITOR AT LARGE

[email protected]

David HartungDIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHy

Mamie ChenExECUTIvE EDITOR

Helene WongCHInESE EDITOR

Yvonne CheongEDITORIAL COORDInATOR

Crystal Tai, Inara SimEDITORS

SubSCrIpTIonS [email protected]

prInTIngEmerald Data Processing and Printing Company Limited

3/F, Cheung Lee Industrial Building9 Cheung Lee Street, Chai Wan, Hong Kong

©Tasting Kitchen 2012. All rights reserved

Mark HammonsGROUP MAnAGInG DIRECTOR & CO-PUBLISHER

[email protected]

Jenny ManGROUP GEnERAL MAnAGER & CO-PUBLISHER

[email protected]

Jean AlbertiCHEF AT LARGE

[email protected]

Alicia beebeART DIRECTOR

Kennis YuenPRODUCTIOn MAnAGER

Anita LeongCIRCULATIOn MAnAGER

Jorge Vincent AoDISTRIBUTIOn ExECUTIvE

Ivan LamACCOUnTAnT

Hong Kong offICe

Stanley LauASST. SALES DIRECTOR

+852 5159 [email protected]

MACAu offICe

gerard William WhittyASST. SALES DIRECTOR

+853 6279 [email protected]

group ADVerTISIng

[email protected]

TK04_06_Masthead_Letter_7APDF_ZZ.indd 6 12年11月6日 上午9:46

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8 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | n o v e m b e r 2 0 1 2

contents

40

14

2018

5446

A Moveable Feast 10 • Peerless Baccarat 12 • Retro Modern 14 • ‘Tis The Season 16

Years of Experience, Moments of Delight 18 • Heaven-Sent Tempura 20 • Center Stage 24 • The Exalted Alba Madonna 28

Fantastic Northern Flavors 40 • Haute Chocolate 46 • Seductive Deconstruction 54 • Restaurants 58

18 24

58

10

12

16

40

28

TK04_08_TOC_7APDF_ZZ.indd 8 12年11月3日 下午3:02

SINGLE MALTSCOTCH WHISKY

SKILLFULLY CRAFTED. ENJOY RESPONSIBLY.

TK04_AD_leungyick_7APDF_ZZ.indd 1 12年11月5日 下午6:08

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inspired living

Italian haute kitchen designers Valcucine have created the dream galley for compact urban living spaces. Their new Logica System is the epitome of sleek, efficient kitchen design, featuring drawers that glide out at a touch, deceptively spacious cabinets and cupboards, sliding countertops and an ultra-clean, space-enhancing look. When you’re done cooking, all the pots and pans and plates and silverware can disappear in a flash, leaving nothing but artful tidiness. Available at Mooi Living Group www.mooi.hk

意大利顶级厨房设计品牌 Valcucine,为都市小而美的生活空间打造梦幻

厨房。新推出的 Logica System 展现了时髦、高效率厨房设计的精髓,包括

只要轻触就会滑开的抽屉,隐身的宽敞橱柜,滑动式流理台,营造出一尘不染、

光可鉴人的偌大空间。料理完毕,所有锅碗瓢盆、餐具、银器瞬间消失,犹剩巧妙

收纳后一丝不苟的干净整洁。有兴趣者请洽 Mooi Living Group www.mooi.hk。

移动式盛宴

a moveable feastValcucine turns tidiness into an art form

TK04_12_LUXURY Valcucine_7APDF_ZZ.indd 10 12年11月3日 下午3:31TK04_AD_Bose_7APDF_ZZ.indd 1 12年11月3日 下午4:39

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TK04_AD_frescobaldi_7APDF_ZZ.indd 1 12年11月5日 下午6:06

无与伦比的巴卡拉

peerless baccarat

inspired living

巴卡拉水晶最新的酒庄系列推出独具匠心

的「通用型」酒杯,充分彰显红酒、白酒

等各种葡萄酒的细腻口感,将品酒体验提

升至更高境界。此款酒杯外型有如一朵沉睡

闭阖的郁金香,宽大的凹面杯底、内倾的杯

壁、烟囱状的垂直杯口,出自于侍酒大师

和葡萄酒权威 Bruno Quenioux 的精雕细琢,

任何酒款的魅惑芬芳因而表露无遗。巴卡

拉的最新力作得以让美酒佳酿更醇、更香。

Photograph courtesy of B

accarat

Wine has never tasted better

Baccarat’s new Château Collection fea-tures an extraordinary “universal” wine glass, made to enhance the experience of any wine, red or white. Resembling a sleeping tulip bloom, the glass’s broadly concave base, inwardly angled sides and vertical chimney were designed by mas-ter sommelier and wine authority Bruno Quenioux to draw out subtleties, to coax

from each wine the very best that it has to offer. “The glass expresses the com-plexity of the wine’s terroir and its aro-mas,” says renowned sommelier Philippe Faure-Brac. “And the shape of the glass is wonderful on your lips.” Though it can’t make bad wine taste great, Bacca-rat’s inspired new wine glass can make great wine taste even better.

12 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | n o v e m b e r 2 0 1 212 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | n o v e m b e r 2 0 1 2

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Pho

togr

aphs

cou

rtes

y of

Lei

cht

复古新时尚

retro modernRetro forms and colors have been enjoy-ing a renaissance in the design world. Among luxury kitchen designers, Leicht is leading the way, combining retro colors with modern designs to create kitchens of timeless beauty and style. This year, the German company has introduced three new colors which hark back to the fifties, sixties and seventies: petrol (an energizing blue), saffron (a warm, matt orange) and curcuma (a serene mus-tard hue, pictured here). Long known for s­uperior quality, clean forms and ­cutting-edge design, Leicht uses careful-ly ­co­nsidered splashes of these special, welcoming colors to turn a kitchen into the true heart of any home.

Leicht’s timeless kitchens combine modern aesthetics and retro styling

复古风格与色系近年再度席卷全球设

计圈。 德国奢华厨房品牌 Leicht 正是

其中引领风骚的佼佼者,揉合复古色

调与摩登设计,开创绝美风华及极致

格调兼具的经典厨房。 Leicht 今年推

出三个全新色系,宛若带领消费者重

回 50、60 及 70 年代:石油(活力蓝)、

番红花(暖亮橘)及姜黄(陈稳的芥

末色,如图)。 Leicht 以其尊爵品质、

简洁而前卫的设计经年傲视业界,这

次透过风格别具与令人舒畅的色系,

让厨房成为每个家庭的「心」之所在。

inspired living

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inspired living

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As temperatures begin to dip and the winter holidays approach, there is one drink that captures the spirit of the season better than any other: mulled wine. Beginning in November, the Peak Café Bar in Soho will be serving its delicious rendition of this classic holiday beverage.

Especially popular in northern Europe, mulled wine is called Glüwhein in Germany and gløgg, glögg or glögi in the Nordic countries. In England, the drink’s status as an essential holiday tradition was helped along by the drink’s appearance in Charles Dickens’ famous tale, A Christmas Carol.

The Peak Café Bar’s version is prepared with an aromatic blend of red wine, brandy, fruit, cinnamon and cloves. Served warm, it is a spicy, festive, heart-cheering drink. If the holidays were a liquid, they would be mulled wine – drink and be merry!

佳节纷至 欢庆气氛浓

’TIS THE SEASoN

tasting news

The taste of the holidays 岁末节庆的滋味

Peak Café Bar

随着天气开始转凉,年末各大节日的脚步

也逐渐接近,冬日里来上一杯暖呼呼的「香

料酒 (mulled wine)」再适合不过了。港

中环 Soho 区的山顶餐厅 Peak Café Bar十一月起将供应这款味道满点与浓浓节日

气氛相得益彰的特制香料酒。

香料酒在德国称为 Glüwhein,在北欧

光是名称就有 gløgg、glögg 及 glögi 等数

种,受欢迎的程度可见一斑。在英国,香

料酒更是因为在文豪狄更斯知名小说「小

气财神」内多次提及而奠定特殊地位,成

为岁末年终不可或缺的传统酒品。

山顶餐厅的特制香料酒揉合红酒、白 兰地、水果、肉桂及丁香等多种香味而

成。 趁热喝下 , 口感微辣 , 打从心里暖起

来 , 浓郁的欢庆氛围令人雀跃。如果要以

一种 酒来形容年末佳节 , 那绝对非香料酒

莫属 - 喝了令人欢乐无穷。

Peak Café BarG/F, 9-13 Shelley Street, Soho, Central, Hong Kong 中環蘇豪些利街 9-13號地下

5 Bars and Lounges 11:00 - 2:00 Mon – Fri; 9:00 - 2:00 Sat; 9:00 – 00:00 Sun & PH HKD 100-300 A Smart Causal q +852 2140 6877

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TK04_00_NEWS_PeakBar_7APDF_ZZ.indd 16 12年11月3日 下午3:26

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AM&BLT_TKMagad_NYE2013.pdf 1 01/11/2012 8:13 PM

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Grilled Australian lobster with sea urchin sauce

澳洲烤龙虾佐以海胆酱

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Very few chefs master the art of Japanese kaiseki. Mizumi’s Chef Hiroshi Kagata is one of them. Since becoming the new Chef de Cuisine at Wynn Macau’s signature Japanese restaurant earlier this year, Chef Hiro has been preparing a monthly kaiseki menu.

“Kaiseki courses are made up of small, artfully presented dishes that complement each other to produce a well-balanced harmony of taste,” says Chef Hiro. The dishes, always seasonal, are masterfully crafted to balance taste, texture and presentation.

Chef Hiro has nearly three decades of experience in the kitchen, including a stint at Kyoto’s 300-year-old Gion Toriimoto Restaurant, where labor-intensive old-world techniques are still standard. The Kyoto style, says Chef Hiro, is traditional and simple, and focuses on optimizing flavor and creating an elegant experience.

“I enjoy working with Kyoto-style light sauces and Japanese herbs such as yuzu, kinome, oba, myoga, wasabi, sudachi and others,” he says. “Each ingredient has a wonderfully seasonal quality and flavor.”

In addition to the kaiseki, there are many other delicious reasons to plan a meal at Mizumi: the red and amazingly tender kinki fish, flown in fresh from Japan twice weekly; Chef Hiro’s grilled lobster served with sea urchin sauce; extraordinary sushi and fresh sashimi; teppanyaki; and authentic robatayaki.

It takes years to master traditional Japanese cooking techniques – years of experience that Chef Hiro translates into moments of delight and pleasure for his customers at Mizumi.

精彩时刻源于炉火纯青的手艺

YEArS of ExpErIENCE, MoMENTS of DElIGHT

Mizumi 「泓」日本料理Wynn Macau, Rua Cidade de Sintra, NAPE 永利酒店 外港填海區仙德麗街

5 Japaneseq+853 8986 3663

17:30–23:30 Wed–Mon MOP 1,250 +10% service charge

A Casual Elegant

/dining/mizumi

精通怀石料理的厨师犹如凤毛麟角,澳门

永利酒店首屈一指的「泓」日本餐厅主厨

加贺田浩正是其中的佼佼者。他于今年初

入主「泓」之后,每月推出精心准备的怀

石套餐。

他说:「怀石料理由多道精致小巧的菜

式组成,相互映衬,交织而成的美味需拿

捏精巧。」怀石料理以时令菜色为主,精

雕细琢之下,不论是味道、份量及整体呈

现均恰到好处。

加贺田浩厨师的专业生涯将近三十年,

曾于一家有三百多年历史的京都料理餐厅

「祇园鸟居本」内工作,在严格承袭传统

的环境下历练多年。加贺介绍京都风格崇

尚传统,一切简单至上,旨在烘托食材原

本的美味,营造雅致的用餐体验。

他说:「我特别喜欢京都风味淡雅的酱

汁,使用柚子、木芽、紫苏叶、茗荷、芥

末及酢橘等各种日本当地的野菜时蔬。每

款当令食材都有令人难忘的季节特性和美

妙滋味。」

Mizumi at Wynn Macau 永利澳门「泓」日本料理

「泓」除了怀石料理,尚有多种令人垂

涎的美食值得一探究竟:肉色红润、入口

即化的喜知次鱼,每周两次由日本新鲜直

送;主厨特制炙烧龙虾佐海胆酱汁、味道

绝妙的寿司及新鲜满点的生鱼片、铁板烧

以及原汁原味的日式炉端烧。

不经多年努力则无法造就绝佳的日本

料理厨艺。加贺主厨多年炉火纯青的功夫,

淬练出的是让造访「泓」的饕客们心满意

足、一尝难忘的美味时刻。

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sponsored feature

If you want to know how good tempura can really be, you go to Inagiku

heaven-sent tempura此味只有天上有,稻菊天妇罗

After tAking your first bite of Inagiku’s crispy shrimp tempura, all conversation at the table fades to white noise. Close your eyes, lean back in your chair and let the ethereally light morsels take over your consciousness. The tempura is so good, so perfectly crisp and flavorful, you may need to pinch yourself to be certain you’re awake – it’s as if you’re having an incredibly vivid food dream.

Not all tempura makes you feel like you’re dreaming. There are many ways to go wrong with tempura – it can be exces-sively oily, overcooked, too chewy, limp, soggy and bland. At some places, the tempura features all these unfortunate qualities simultaneously, scaring some first-timers away from the dish forever. If you want to know how good tempura can really be, you go to Inagiku. Their tempura sets the standard.

The first Inagiku restaurant opened in 1866 as a small tempura café in Asakusa, Japan. In the 1970s, Inagiku made its debut on the international food scene with a res-taurant in New York’s Waldorf Astoria Hotel.

一口咬下稻菊酥脆的炸虾天妇罗,桌旁所

有声音似乎瞬间变成与你无关的杂讯。你

闭上眼睛,靠着椅背,那一小口蕴含的绝

佳滋味在你心中迴荡再三。这天妇罗真的

太棒了,脆度及味道都无懈可击。好吃到

让你有点不敢置信 像是在美梦中,简

直要揑自己一把才感觉真实一样。

但可不是所有天妇罗的滋味都能让人

置身梦境。要做好天妇罗可是困难重重

可能过油、炸得太老、过韧、软烂、水分

过多或味道不够。偏偏某些餐厅却正好集

这些缺点於大成,让首次尝鲜的顾客们从

此与天妇罗不共戴天。想一尝天妇罗的绝

佳美味,去稻菊包准没错。那里天妇罗水 准之高,难有其他餐厅能望其项背。

稻菊 1866 年创立於日本浅草,从一

间天妇罗小馆开始。1970 年代,稻菊於

纽约著名的华道夫豪华酒店 (WaldorfAsto-ria) 初试啼声,从此开始在世界舞台上崭

露头角。多年下来,稻菊分店已遍佈洛杉

矶、新加坡、马尼拉、上海、 北京、广州、 峇里岛、香港及澳门等世界大城。

稻菊澳门分店落脚於星际酒店 (Star-World Hotel),由天妇罗主厨李京桦 ( 荣师傅 ) 坐镇。荣师傅在香港出生长大,少

年时代开始醉心於日式料理。从最基础的

Chef Lee Ging Wa Weng

主厨李京桦

TK04_00_Inagiku_7APDF_ZZ.indd 20 12年11月3日 下午3:19

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sponsored feature Inagiku’s tempura sets the standard.

稻菊的天妇罗是水準指标

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Over the years, branches have opened up all over the world, in Los Angeles, Singapore, Manila, Shanghai, Beijing, Guangzhou, Bali, Hong Kong and Macau.

At StarWorld Hotel, Inagiku Chef de Cuisine Lee Ging Wa Weng is the expert tempura maker. Born and raised in Hong Kong, Weng was a youngster when he developed a fascination with Japanese cuisine. As an apprentice, he began by washing rice and cutting vegetables, and then worked his way through every step of training to become a Japanese chef. He has been cooking for 27 years, and it’s clear that he still has the same ded-ication, drive and attention to detail for which Japanese chefs are famous. “I learned all the basics from a Japanese

sake pairing Paired with Chef Weng’s Sashimi Platter

Otokoyama Jumai Daiginjo清酒 男山純米大吟釀

Nothing goes into this magnificent sake from Hokkaido’s Otokoyama (Man’s Moun-tain) brewery but pure well water, polished rice, and koji, the alchemical mold that fer-ments the rice and makes sake possible. The resulting elixir presents a seductive nose, runs like liquid velvet on the tongue and delivers a harmonious medley of rice, sweet potato and melon flavors. No distilled alcohol is added. A little added alcohol isn’t necessarily a bad thing – in very fine sakes, it functions like the alcohol in perfumes, helping to set free the complex aromas of the liquid. Nevertheless, there is something profoundly satisfying about the purity of this sake. The clean taste and crisp finish are perfect with sashimi. Dishes with stronger flavors might overpower the subtle effects, but, really, there’s never a wrong time to drink something this good.

北海道清酒「男山」酿制过程除了顶级纯井水、精白米以及制作清酒不可

或缺、让白米发酵的「麴菌」外 ,其他一概不加。酿制完成的清酒 ,清香

扑鼻而来 ,丝绒般的口感滑过舌尖 ,带出白米、地瓜及密瓜三种味道的完

美结合 ,其中不加一滴蒸馏酒精。其实顶级清酒加一点也无妨 ,就像在香

水里加入酒精一般 ,可以让多种味道混和的香味完全释放。不过,男山清

酒口感的确纯粹 ,带给人极大的满足感。甘纯的口感及爽口的后味可说是

生鱼片的绝配 , 搭配其他味道较重的餐点可能就尝不出如此细微的口感。

不过话说回来 ,这么棒的酒不管什么时候喝 ,都是一大享受。

chef,” says Chef Weng. “My skills are truly Japanese.”

The secret to Inagiku’s famous tem-pura, says Weng, lies in the oil. At Inagiku, rather than using plain canola oil, they use supreme grade Nagano white sesame oil, refined by a traditional process of pressing and filtering called tamashibori. The batter,

made from cold water and wheat flour, is mixed with chopsticks for only a few sec-onds, keeping it light and fluffy.

Vegetables and seafood are dipped in the batter, giving them a thin, almost trans-parent coating, before being dropped, one at a time, into the hot oil, which must be kept at exactly 350° F. The frying must be precisely timed to avoid the limp bland-ness that results from undercooking and the loss of flavor and texture that comes with overcooking. It’s a delicate process that demands meticulous attention to detail. Dip the best ingredients in carefully prepared batter, fry them in top-quality oil at just the right temperature, for exactly the right amount of time, and the result is crisp, golden, heaven-sent tempura.

Weng explains that the first rule for eating tempura is to enjoy it while it’s piping hot. The second rule is to avoid the dashi-mirin-soy dipping sauce which can make the batter soft and mushy. Instead, stick solely to freshly squeezed lemon juice and salt flakes, which help the true flavors of the seafood and vegetables to shine.

Following his advice, you dip each piece into the lemon juice and sprinkle it with salt. Each bite is warm and crackly – beneath the exterior of light-as-air batter, the vegetables are vibrant and crunchy, the shrimp plump, sweet, and juicy.

Tempura fanatics say you haven’t had the real thing until you’ve eaten at Inagiku. After you’ve tried Chef Weng’s mouthwa-tering offerings, it’s likely that you’ll agree – there is no substitute.

Inagiku at StarWorld Hotel

稻菊於澳门星际酒店

sponsored feature

TK04_00_Inagiku_7APDF_ZZ.indd 22 12年11月3日 下午3:19

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sponsored feature

学徒开始,洗米切菜练基本功,27 年来

一步一脚印,同時处处可见身为日本料理

师傅向来的全神贯注、对於细节锱铢必较

的精神。

「我的基本功都是向日本师傅学的,

技术百分之百纯日式。」

主厨说稻菊威名远播的天妇罗,个中

诀窍就在炸油。稻菊不使用一般的芥花油,

而是日本长野县所产,坚持遵循古法酿造

的顶级白芝麻油。该酿法称为「tamashibori ( 玉绞り )」, 为经过挤压及过滤等程序的

传统酿造方式。稻菊的炸粉则是由冷水及

小麦粉混和而成,用筷子迅速搅拌数秒,

保持轻薄松盈。

将各式蔬菜及海鲜轻裹炸粉,附上一

层轻薄近乎透明的面衣,一次一个下锅

油炸。油温需维持在华氏 350 度 ( 约摄氏

180 度 ),油炸时间也要绝对控制,避免

时间过短食物不熟无味,过久又会失去原

味及口感,处理过程中各个细节都需全神

贯注,马虎不得。最佳食材裹上精心准备

的炸粉,放入最顶级的炸油中,油温一度

不差,油炸时间精 无误,呈现出来的便

是酥脆、色泽金黄的天妇罗。

主厨也分享了吃天妇罗的秘诀:第一,

起锅后要趁热品尝。第二,舍弃柴鱼高汤、

味霖及酱油调製而成的沾酱,沾了只是让

面衣又软又烂,在食用前仅需现挤几滴柠

檬汁,撒点晶盐,就能带出海鲜及蔬菜的

原味。

天妇罗爱好者总说,没去过稻菊就

不算吃过真正的天妇罗 其地位无可取

代。试过荣师傅令人流口水的佳作,你再

也同意不过了。

Handmade tofu, garnished with ginger, pine needles and a chrysanthemum

手工制作的豆腐以姜,松针和菊花点缀

Inagiku 稻菊日本料理 5 Japanese5/F, StarWorld Hotel Macau Avenida da Amizade星際酒店 友誼大馬路 五樓

q+853 8290 866812:00–14:30, 18:00–23:00ACasual Chic

/dining/inagiku

TK04_00_Inagiku_7APDF_ZZ.indd 23 12年11月3日 下午3:19

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center stage中央舞台 领衔主演

Chef Ekkebus roasts Wagyu beef over a wood fire and serves it with seasonal greens and Cévennes onions prepared eight different ways.

主厨Ekkebus使用柴火炙烤顶极和牛,

搭配季节时蔬及Cévennes甜洋葱八吃。

Amber’s Richard Ekkebus keeps the spotlight on his ingredients

TK04_00_FIFTYBEST_Amber_7APDF_ZZ.indd 24 12年11月3日 下午5:14

“Seafood really takeS center stage in my kitchen,” says Amber Culinary Director Richard Ekkebus. “I was born and raised by the sea, fishing and cooking my catch imme-diately, so the notion of exceptionally fresh ingredients is wired into my hard drive.”

Using only the finest and freshest ingre-dients is a benchmark that Richard has set for himself and his team at Amber, the signature restaurant at the Landmark Man-darin Oriental Hotel in Hong Kong.

“Over time I have become much more product-driven,” says Richard. “I think when you have access to exceptional ingre-dients you have an obligation to protect the genius of these ingredients, and that is what we are doing on a daily basis. Technique is important as well, but it’s there as a support. It’s never to show off or to impress diners with fancy and complicated cooking skills.”

Never compromising on quality has paid off for Amber, which opened seven years ago and has since earned two Michelin stars and become one of Asia’s most celebrated fine-dining destinations. People come from all over to indulge in Richard’s signature dishes, like his Hokkaido sea urchin in lobster jelly with cauliflower, caviar and crispy sea-weed waffles. The combination of land and sea is something Richard says has always intrigued him about Chinese cuisine, and the two meet seamlessly in this dish. “The cauliflower is earthy and sweet and has a complex texture and flavor alongside the sea urchin. The seaweed crackers add a crispy element that contrasts with the creaminess of the dish,” he says. “I think every good dish should have a crispy element.”

Dutch-born, trained in France, Richard

Amber餐饮总监Richard Ekkebus表示:「海

鲜是我厨房里的主角。在海边出生长大,

要吃什么现钓现煮,新鲜至上这四个字一

直刻在我脑海中。」

Richard 及团队非最佳、最新鲜的食

材不用,也因为对品质的坚持,Amber 成为香港置地文华东方酒店的招牌餐厅。

「我一直非常注重食材」,Richard 自我

分析 :「既然使用顶级食材 , 自然有义务要

保存珍贵的原味精华 , 这也正是我们每天

努力的目标。」他强调 :「技术固然重要 ,但应该用之为辅 , 一味炫耀华丽或用繁复

的技巧来取悦客人只会喧宾夺主 , 绝对不

可取。」

Amber 开业至今七年 , 因对于质量从不

妥协 , 现已摘下两颗米其林星 , 跃升为亚洲

首屈一指的顶级餐厅之一。各地饕客不远千

里而来 , 就为了一尝 Richard 名震四方的各

式菜肴。如他的北海道海胆龙虾冻佐椰花菜、

鱼子酱及酥炸海藻。这道名菜灵感来自中菜,

海陆两大元素搭配的天衣无缝。他自豪地说

道 :「椰花菜带有土壤的甜味 , 与海胆多层

次的口感相得益彰 , 而炸海藻的酥脆刚 好又

与这道菜的奶油口感形成对比。我觉得每道

好菜都必需有酥脆口感的搭配。」

Richard 在荷兰出生 , 于法国接受专 业训练 , 现在长居香港 , 使用的都是邻近

农场直送的顶级新鲜食材。他说 :「我们

用了许多日式食材 , 但烹饪技巧及每道菜

的味道可都是原汁原味的法式风格。」

香港各方文化荟萃 , 在此生活及工作 , 反倒让 Richard 想念家乡的味道。从小在

祖父母的餐厅长大 , 注定从此要踏上厨师

一途。他说「: 香港的美食很专注 , 不论

是以味道或是口感为重 , 关键都在料理本

身。现在我觉得我的菜也更讲究突出精

髓。」 「与其用一些时下流行的新兴作法,

我倒喜欢尝试用传统方式将味道提升到不

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now takes advantage of Hong Kong’s cross-roads location to source the most exceptional fresh ingredients from the region.

“We work with a lot of Japanese ingre-dients but our techniques and flavor profile are definitely 100 percent French.”

Living and working in this cultural crossroads has inspired Richard to get back to his roots, where a childhood spent in his grandparents’ restaurant prepared him for a life in the kitchen. “Hong Kong food is very focused. It’s all about the essence of the dish, whether that is taste-driven or textur-ally-driven. So I think my food has become much more focused since I’ve been here.”

“Now I look at how I can enhance the flavor of what I’m cooking, using more traditional methods instead of what is fashionable. I love to roast over a wood fire – it brings an element of extreme heat and an intense smoky flavor, which can really change the dynamics of a dish.”

A perfect example is his Wagyu beef from Japan, cooked over low heat so the richly marbled fat is not lost, and then car-amelized over the open wood fire. “When you braise and roast you have two totally different textures and I like that playfulness in a dish,” Richard says. He serves the melt-ingly tender meat with delicately flavored sweet Cévennes onions from France, pre-pared eight different ways.

Richard believes that perseverance and consistency are the qualities that make a restaurant successful. “You have to hold on to your principles and stay loyal to what you feel the restaurant is known for.”

But he doesn’t let that pressure weigh him down. “I create my own pressure. It’s not a guide or a list that motivates me. The drive within myself is the only thing I need to reckon with every day.”

Learn more about San Pellegrino at www.jebsenfinewines.com.

“You have an obligation to protect the genius of your ingredients.厨师有义务保存食材原味的精华。”

上:北海道海胆龙虾冻佐鱼子酱及金箔;下:搭配和牛的cévennes甜洋葱八食,或以醋渍、

或煎成酥球、或入刺山柑酱 ,又或拌入芥末籽酱;下:搭配和牛的Cévennes甜洋葱,或

以醋渍、和入面团煎煮、混和果酱佐刺山柑 ,又或沾浸带籽芥末酱,风味各不相同

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Upper left: Hokkaido sea urchin in lobster jelly, topped with caviar and edible gold flakes; lower left: the Cévennes onions served with the Wagyu beef are variously pickled in vinegar, cooked in bread dough, mixed in marmalade with capers, and doused with grain mustard.

同层次。我喜欢烧柴火来炙烤-透过极高

温及浓烈烟熏味道可让料理脱胎换骨。」

Richard拿手的和牛料理便是最佳证明,

先用低温煎过保留丰富油花,后以柴火炙

烤至表面焦亮金黄。他分析:「文火炖与

炙烤出来的口感截然不同,我喜欢在单一

道菜里融合多种玩法。」 入口即化的顶极和

牛搭配以八种方式调制,滋味丰富的法国

Cévennes 甜洋葱一起享用,可谓绝配。

Richard 深信坚持品质及长期维持高

水平是餐厅生意兴隆的不二法则。 「一定

要坚持原则,为餐厅的品质把关。」

他并没有因此而被压的喘不过气。 Richard 强调:「美食指南或餐厅排行不是

我的目标。我会给自己压力 , 每天达到自

己订的标准才是我必修的功课。」

Amber 5 French Contemporary7/F The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Road, Central, Hong Kong 中環皇后大道中 15號置地廣場置地文華東方酒店 7樓

Lunch: 12:00–14:30 Mon-Fri, 12:00–14:00 Sat-Sun & PH, Dinner: 18:30–22:30 Mon-Sun & PH HKD 500+ A Smart Casual q +852 2132 0066

/dining/amber

Amber Culinary Director Richard Ekkebus

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The exalTed alba madonna

The world’s most seductive ingredient is a lumpy subterranean fungus. In appearance homely at best, the white truffle doesn’t win any beauty pag-eants. But it does inspire passion, and devotion. What the white truffle lacks in looks it makes up for with character—with delicate, unforgettable flavor, and a fragrance that is just about as impos-sible to describe as it is to resist.

Struggling to characterize the extraordinary aroma of the white truffle, people sometimes resort to words that sound more like warnings than endorsements: Intense. Earthy, garlicky. Pungent. Arrogant. Like cabbage on steroids. Chef Umberto Bombana of 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana tells a story about a dishwasher he worked with in Italy who, after becoming anx-ious about a dangerous gas leak in the kitchen, was prepared to evacuate the restaurant—but no, that wasn’t necessary, he was just smelling the truffles.

“It’s a very strong, powerful smell,” says Olivier Elzer, Chef de Cuisine Exécutif of L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon. “But the taste is different from the smell. The taste for me is smoother, very unique. I think sometimes the smell can be a little bit overpowering but the taste actually makes the balance.”

A first sniff makes some people tentative. But after they’ve had a truffle experience, after they’ve surrendered, people begin to experience that strong scent as a kind of siren call. And then they start expressing their ardency with adjectives like these: Mouthwatering. Beguiling. Sublime.

Such is the potency of the white truffle that just a few flakes shaved onto a simple dish of egg or buttered pasta is enough to transform it into a masterpiece of aroma and flavor. Because cook-ing diminishes the aroma, chefs usually prefer to shave the raw truffle directly onto a dish. With a truffle dish, says Chef Bombana, the goal is to create “a good platform for the truffle to domi-nate and exalt itself.”

“We can’t play too much with the white truffle,” says Guillaume Gaillot, Chef de Cuisine of The Tasting Room. “To get the best of it, stay simple.”

Chef Elzer agrees: “The most important thing is to respect the truffles.”

The best white truffles come from the forests of Piedmont, near the town of Alba in northern Italy, where the red soil and rainy summers make for perfect growing conditions. In August, the truffles begin growing underground, among the roots of various hardwood trees. When they are ripe, at some point from October to December, trained dogs can smell them under the soil.

Chemists and cultivators have tried, but so far nobody has been able to duplicate the magic of the wild white Alba truffles. Limited availabil-ity and high demand have made them one of the world’s most expensive ingredients. This season, a kilogram of white truffles is selling for around HKD 45,000. No other seasonal ingredient is as highly anticipated.

“There is nothing else like truffles,” says Chef Bombana. “With each truffle season, you know another year has passed.”

For many chefs and diners, the autumn appearance of the white truffle, or Alba Madonna, is the

highest of high points on the culinary calendar

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超群绝伦白松露

这款生长于地下的块状真菌其貌不扬,却是全

球最诱人的食材之一,且外表越普通越好。白

松露虽然貌不惊人,却能令人为之狂热、心生

向往:其细腻的滋味一尝难忘,香气浓郁,魅

力诱人难挡。

白松露独特的香气言语难以形容,令饕客

伤透脑筋都找不到合适的词汇,形容时,不仅

听起来没有加分,还常叫人望而生畏:浓烈、

土质、大蒜味、呛鼻及霸道,根本像是在形容

打了类固醇的卷心菜。8½ Otto e Mezzo Bom-bana 意大利餐厅主厨 Umberto Bombana 在此也

分享了一则小故事,曾有位意大利的洗碗工工

作到一半乍闻大量瓦斯的气味,大为慌张立刻

准备逃命 —— 不过却是场小小的误会,原来那

是松露的味道。

法式餐厅 L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon 行政主

厨 Olivier Elzer 就形容:「那是很浓、很强烈的

气味,不过吃下去的滋味与闻起来的又完全不

同,非常滑顺、独一无二。有时气味或许过重,

但一尝味道后便又觉得搭配得恰到好处。」 第一次闻到松露的香气可能会让有些人犹

豫,可是一旦品尝过松露的滋味后,便会拜倒

在其美妙的滋味下,而强烈的香气反倒变成一

种难以抗拒的呼唤。食客如此形容对松露爱不

释手的程度:垂涎三尺、心醉神迷、超群绝伦!

简单的蛋奶意大利面只要缀上数片白松露

薄片,立即变身为一道香气扑鼻及美味满分的

佳肴。松露香气在烹饪过程中容易消散,因此

厨师偏好起锅后铺上数片现削松露即可。主厨

Bombana 点出松露餐制作之要诀,在于创造出

「能让松露领衔主演、发光发热的舞台」。

The Tasting Room 御膳房行政主厨 Guillau-me Gaillot 表示:「使用白松露不用玩花招,要

让美味发挥到极致的不二法则就是一切从简。」

主厨 Elzer 也异口同声说道:「尊重松露的

原味才是关键所在。」

意大利北部小镇 Alba 附近的 Piedmont 森林出产全球品质最佳的白松露之后 Alba Madon-na,当地的红土及夏季多雨正是白松露的最佳温

床。每年八月,松露于地下成形,错落分布于

多种硬木树种的树根之间,约在十月至十二月

间长成,所在位置需仰赖训练有素的松露犬灵

敏的嗅觉才能找到。

化学及农育专家多年来想方设法,仍是无

法以人工培育出可以比拟野生白松露的育种。

数量稀少,市场需求极高,让白松露堂而皇之

成为全球最昂贵的食材之一。今年的松露季又

到了,一公斤白松露售价便高达港币四万五千

元,耀眼程度令其他当季食材瞠乎其后。

主厨 Bombana 便赞叹:「松露是独一无二

的。每每迎接松露季的到来,就代表着在满心

期待下又度过了一年。」

对大多数西餐大厨及饕客们来说,白松露之后 AlbA MAdonnA出现的秋季,是美食日历中至高无上、万众期待的一个季节。

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Chef Umberto Bombana’s “Egg Al Piatto” with burrata, mushroom, and white truffle

主厨Umberto Bombana的

「Egg Al Piatto」煎蛋巧妙搭配

burrata起司、蘑菇及白松露

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The Alba white truffle – rare, fragrant, coveted, loved, and inimitable.

阿尔巴白松露之后-珍贵,香浓,

集万千宠爱于一身,无法人工培植

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“I always recommend to my team to use two or three truffles. It’s nice to start shaving with one and then pick another one. Because all the truffles taste a little bit different. This one can be stronger than that

one. So I think it’s interesting to give you a little taste of each.”

“我总建议我的厨师们一次使用两到三颗松露。一颗用完再用另外一颗。每颗松露

的味道都有些微不同,有的较浓、有的较淡。让客人尝试其中微妙的区别。”

Olivier Elzer, Chef de Cuisine Exécutif of L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon

Alba white truffle on “ratte” potato and foie gras rolls salad, garnished with pink and black radishes and edible flowers

Alba白松露之后伴鹅肝卷配小黑萝卜及可食用的鲜花瓣沙津

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“You have to be creative while respecting the simplicity. It’s not ‘I put this, I put that ... oh I’m a genius.’ You have to truly understand the product and you have to respect the product. Because I think the truffle is the real actor. You

cannot kill the ingredient. To be creative, you have to do it in a way that leaves the truffle aroma. Don’t cover the aroma. And usually simple is the best.”

“一切必须简单至上,同时又要巧思独具。东摆一块,西放一条,人人就都能成为天才厨师了

吗?可没这么容易,一定要百分之百掌握食材,尊重食材。松露就是舞台的主角,不好好使用就

太浪费了。一定要发挥创意,保留而非掩盖了松露的香气。简单通常就是美味的不二法门。”

Chef Umberto Bombana of Hong Kong’s 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana

Porcini mushroom risotto with aromatic Piedmont cheese, parsley, and white truffle

Porcini牛肝菌菇炖饭,搭配香气四溢的Piedmont起司、巴西里及白松露

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“If you cook the white truffle, all the flavor will disappear. The best for the white really is to add it last minute on top of your dish. You can get creative with the ingredients underneath and with the seasonings and the sauce.”

“煮过的白松露会香味全失,最好在起锅前的一刻再加入,

才能保持香气与滋味。陪村食材、调味及酱汁可以发挥巧思,创意搭配。”

Guillaume Gaillot, Chef de Cuisine of The Tasting Room

Ravioli of soumaintrain cheese and hazelnut with artichoke velouté sauce and shimeji mushrooms, topped with artichoke chips and white truffle

Soumaintrain起司及榛果意大利饺佐洋蓟奶油酱配茶树菇,缀以朝鲜蓟脆薄片及白松露

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40 | T A S T I N G K I T C H E N | n o v e m b e r 2 0 1 2Salmon six ways

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无懈可击的北欧美味

The Nordic cuisine at FINDS makes for one of Hong Kong’s

most interesting menus

all chefs remember the dish that stopped them in their tracks and made them fall in love with food. For Jaakko Sorsa, Execu-tive Chef at FINDS in Hong Kong, it was his Grandmother Ida’s meatballs.

“Her meatballs tasted so much better than everyone else’s. I was a very picky eater but her dishes I adored.”

Ida’s meatball recipe has now been incor-porated into Chef Jaakko’s menu at his restaurant FINDS in Tsim Sha Tsui’s Luxe Manor. Jaakko is Finnish, and the name of

fantastic northern flavors

tasting notes

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Seared scallops served with artichoke risotto, roasted gold root, and rocket puree

煎扇贝佐洋蓟炖饭、烤金根及芝麻菜泥

the restaurant is an acronym that honors the Scandinavian origins of the food—Fin-land, Iceland, Norway, Denmark, Sweden.

“Here’s a great dish to introduce you to Nordic tastes,” says Jaakko. “Salmon six ways.”

Salmon any way is a treat. Six ways all at once is joy on a plate. If you tend towards indecision, if the six tantalizing, intriguingly varied options make it hard to know where to start, be assured: you can’t go wrong.

There’s cold-smoked, a mousse, pickled, gravad lax, roe, and a piece seared with pep-percorn and fennel. Each one is lovely and interesting in its own way, and to eat them all, one after the next, amounts to a kind of salmon seminar, a demonstration of all the different flavors and effects a talented chef can summon from a single ingredient.

“Cooking with salmon is like cooking

with tomatoes or potatoes,” says Jaakko. “It’s such a versatile ingredient that you can use it for practically anything.” And he does: there are 18 different salmon dishes on Jaakko’s menu.

“At home, everything follows the sea-sons. We gather and prepare natural products from the land. My childhood summers were spent on my grandmother’s island in the Lakeland—fishing, curing and smoking the fish, and picking mushrooms from the forest.”

By keeping a careful eye on what nature has to offer, cooking seasonally, and updat-ing age-old Nordic dishes, Jaakko has created one of the most interesting menus in Hong Kong. Great Nordic flavors rule here: North Sea mussels, Danish her-ring, ‘Finn’ fries, Greenland shrimp—even smoked reindeer from Lapland. Jaakko says

“ People in Hong Kong are very adventurous when it comes to food.”

“ 香港人喜欢 鲜,尤其是美食,总是一马当先。他们很爱北欧菜。”

it’s a surprisingly popular dish on the menu. “People in Hong Kong are very adven-

turous when it comes to food,” he says.Fresh root vegetables are among Jaak-

ko’s favorite ingredients. “I love artichokes,” he says. ”They have such a sweet, deep richness that adds a real earthiness to a dish.” He puts his into a creamy risotto and serves it with roasted gold root and seared scallops with hazelnut butter.

The scallops, along with all the sea-food on the menu, have been sustainably sourced. In 2011, FINDS became the first Western-cuisine restaurant in Hong Kong to join the WWF’s Ocean-Friendly Menu Program. “We’re small but loud protectors of the sea,” Jaakko says proudly. “We fully support ethical sourcing practices and we use nothing on the WWF’s red list.”

To make dessert, Jaakko upends a large dish of yellow berries into a pot with sugar and water.

“Buckthorn berries,” he says. “They grow wild on the islands in Finland. Full of sea minerals and very good for you. Strong, tart flavor. But it takes skill to cook with them.”

Jaakko transforms the berries into gelat-inous little yellow cubes with an acidic bite. They make a perfect accompaniment to his sweet, white chocolate parfait.

Jaakko’s fantastic Nordic flavors come straight at you, clean and clear. No matter what the dish is, you always feel he is help-ing you discover something basic and true about each ingredient. Eating his food is to be transported away from subtropical Hong Kong to a northern land of pine forests and cold water lakes, of salmon and root veg-etables and buckthorn berries. It’s a very satisfying trip to take.

tasting notes

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tasting notes Wine Pairing

LINIE AquAvIT 利尼阿誇維特燒酒

Norwegian Linie aquavit is a strong, dry liquor, distilled from fermented potatoes and flavored with caraway, aniseed and other herbs. Linie is the Norwegian word for line and this aquavit is famously aged on ships that travel from Europe to Australia and back, twice crossing the equatorial line. Stored in oak casks previously used for sherry, the aquavit follows the motion of the waves, and, over time, is imbued with a warm golden color and the mellow flavors of oak and sherry. At FINDS, the aquavit is served in chilled cups carved from Finnish stone. It pairs perfectly with Chef Jaakko’s smoked salmon.

挪威产的利尼阿夸维特烧酒浓烈芬芳,含糖量低,由马铃薯

发酵后蒸馏,并加入葛缕子丶洋茴香及其他多种香草酿制

而成。利尼 (Linie) 在挪威语中发音接近「航线」,而此款

阿夸维特烧酒的陈酿正是在往返欧洲及澳洲的船上完

成,因两次横跨赤道线而闻名于世。陈酿中的阿夸

维特与各式香草被放置于原本用来储放雪利酒的

橡木酒桶中,乘风踏浪,长时间下来酝出的酒

色呈温暖的金黄,味道芳醇带有橡树及雪利

酒香。「FINDS」餐厅里,阿夸维特烧酒被

倒入冰冻过的芬兰石刻酒杯里饮用,再

搭配加寇 • 索沙主厨的特制熏鲑鱼,

可说是人生一大享受。

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If we peeked in your home refrigerator, what

would we find?

My mustard collection—I have about fifteen

mustards from all around the world. My home

fridge is actually an old champagne fridge from

FINDS. I don’t have a freezer at home, I just buy

things fresh and use everything right away.

What are the top three things you can’t work

without in the kitchen?

A smoking bin. A 100-liter braising steam pot to

prepare stocks. And a gravad lax knife.

If you competed in Iron Chef, which “theme

ingredient” competition would you never

lose?

Salmon.

What qualities do you need to become a good

chef?

You must never take shortcuts. Be patient, try

again and again, and always improve yourself.

Keep yourself challenged and keep learning.

What was your worst kitchen disaster?

It happened when I was the head chef at a big

seafood restaurant at the Fairmont in Bermuda.

The hotel was full, but a hurricane kept the

planes full of ingredients from arriving from the

US. It’s amazing what you can come up with

when you have to.

Tell us about the most interesting meal

you’ve ever cooked. For whom and where?

In February 2011, I was invited to prepare a

modern Finnish dinner for Princess Takamado

in Tokyo. I chose local ingredients, meat

and vegetables and seafood from the Tsujiki

fishmarket, and prepared it all the Nordic way,

like amaebi shrimps cold-smoked with Finnish

wood.

How would you describe your cooking

philosophy?

Clean and honest flavors.

What was your best culinary experience?

New ones happen all the time. Before coming

to Asia, my best experience was probably my

first visit to Alain Ducasse’s Louis XV in Monaco.

But then, a few years ago, I discovered Yunnan

cuisine for the first time and that was another

great experience.

What is your opinion of organic products?

Nowadays organic food is sold in designer

malls in fancy packaging. It has become the

food of the elite. It’s too expensive. It should be

a human right to enjoy clean food, just like it

used to be a few decades ago, when most food

was organic.

How were you inspired to become a chef?

While watching my grandmother cook, I started

to wonder: Why does her food taste so much

better than other people’s food? I started to

pay attention to small techniques, like how

she built the base for stews and soups. It’s all

about attention to details and taking care of

the ingredients—that’s what elevates good

cooking to great cooking.

chef PrOfile

JAAKKo SorSAExEcutivE chEf at fiNDS, hoNg KoNg

如果能一窥您家里的冰箱,最有可能找到些

什么?

我的芥末收藏-我收集了世界各地大约 15种的芥末。我家冰箱前身其实就是 fiNDS 的

香槟冷藏箱。我家里没有冰冻箱,只买新鲜

的食材 , 然后马上加以烹调。

哪三样食材是您的厨房里最不能或缺的?

烟熏桶丶用来准备高汤的 100 公升大蒸汽锅

以及切熏鲑鱼的专用刀。

假如您参加厨神比赛,以什么食材为主题对

您来说最有信心?

鲑鱼。

您认为要成为一位出色的厨师最重要的素质

是什么?

绝对不要挑捷径丶要有耐心丶一试再试,持

续提升自己的厨艺。不断给自己挑战,永远

虚心学习。

作为国际知名大厨,您经历过最糟糕的场面

是什么?

以前在百慕达费尔蒙一家大型海鲜餐厅担任

总厨时,有件让我记忆深刻的事。当时酒店

订房全满,但运送食材的飞机却因飓风困在

美国。不过也是在这种毫无后路的时候,才

能激发出人的潜能,真的很神奇。

您最有趣的烹饪经历是什么?

2011 年 2 月我获邀到东京为宪仁亲王妃久子

呈献当代芬兰菜。我以北欧料理的方式烹调

了日本当地的食材丶肉丶蔬菜以及筑地市场

采买的海鲜,比如用芬兰木冷熏的日本甜虾

等菜色。

能与我们分享一下您的烹饪哲学吗?

简单清新丶保留食材原始风味。

您最好的美食体验是哪一次?

一直都有新的最好体验。来亚洲前,最棒的

一次是在法国当代名厨艾伦 · 杜卡斯 (alain Ducasse) 于摩洛哥的路易十五餐厅 (Louis xv)。但几年后,我首次尝到云南菜,非常

惊艳,算又一次的绝佳体验。

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Small cubes of tart buckthorn berry jelly accent blocks of creamy white chocolate parfait.

白巧克力芭菲缀酸酸的浆果果冻,小巧易食

每个大厨的记忆中都有一道让他们回味

再三并从此爱上美食的料理。对於香

港「FINDS」北欧餐厅主厨 加寇 • 索沙

(Jaakko Sorsa) 来说,他最喜欢的菜肴就

是祖母 义妲 的肉丸子。

「祖母的肉丸子就是比别人家的好

吃,真的没法比。我的嘴巴很挑剔,但她

做的菜总让我大呼过瘾。」

理所当然,索沙 亦使祖母的肉丸成

为了 FINDS 的招牌菜色之一。索沙出

身於芬兰,他的餐厅位於香港蒂乐文娜

公馆酒店 (Tsim Sha Tsui’s Luxe Manor),FINDS 五个字母由北欧芬兰 (Finland) 丶冰岛 (Iceland) 丶挪威 (Norway) 丶丹麦

(Denmark) 及瑞典 (Sweden) 五国字首组

合而成,彰显的正是北欧斯堪地纳维亚半

岛正统的风味料理。

索沙 向我介绍:「要品尝北欧料理可

以从这道『鲑鱼六吃』开始。」

其实鲑鱼(又称三文鱼)怎么烹调我

都爱吃,更不用说是六吃,真可说是一大

享受。如果你不知道如何选菜,或者如果

一鱼六吃让你觉得不知该从何下手,千万

不要担心:这道料理绝对不会错!

只见精美如画的盘中有烟熏式丶做

成慕丝的丶用醋腌制的丶盐渍的鲑鱼片,

晶莹的鲑鱼籽酱以及加入胡椒粒和茴香

的煎鲑鱼片,看上去赏心悦目,风味独具。

能够一次尝尽六种不同美味,简直有如

鲑鱼大观一般,叫人满足不已,同时也

展现主厨妙手生花般的厨艺,单一食材

也能尽显其各种不同风格与滋味。

谈到鲑鱼,索沙表示:「鲑鱼风貌多

元,就像蕃茄或马铃薯一样,任何烹饪方

式都能入菜。」他的确所言非虚,「FINDS」菜单上有多达 18 种不同的鲑鱼料理!

「在我家乡,一切都跟着四季时令走,

我们会在各个季节摘采不同的天然食材。

记得小时候的夏天都会在祖母位於湖泊

区的小岛家中度过,要么钓鱼丶腌鱼或熏

鱼,要么到森林去采磨菇。」

也就是如此,索沙 坚持挑选大自然

赋予的新鲜食材丶烹调时令蔬果,并将

历史悠久的北欧菜色加以创新,造就出

全香港最有趣的菜色之一。全北欧风味

料理飨宴就在 FINDS :北海淡菜丶丹

麦鲱鱼丶芬兰薯条丶格陵兰虾,甚至是

拉普兰烟熏麋鹿肉也名列其中。香港饕

客对北欧菜的回响之大,也让索沙惊喜

不已。

他说:「香港人勇于尝鲜,尤其是美食,

总是一马当先。他们很爱北欧菜。」

新鲜冬季根茎类蔬菜是 索沙 最爱的

食材之一。他说:「我很喜欢洋蓟,味道

非常丰富,略带甜味,还可以为料理添加

一些大地的味道。」他把洋蓟放入奶油味

十足的炖饭中,加上烤金根 ( 红景天 ) 及香煎扇贝,缀以榛果牛油,这又是一道风

味佳肴。

扇贝以及菜单上所有的海鲜都是以尊

重海洋永续生态的方式捕捞而来。FINDS也在 2011 年,领先香港所有西式餐厅,

加入世界自然基金会 (WWF) 的海洋永续

生态友善菜单计划。索沙自豪地表示:「我

们虽然是家小餐厅,但是会高调提倡保护

海洋生态的重要性。我们百分百支持永续

捕捞,名列基金会红色名单的食材我们一

律不用。」

接下来要制作点心,索沙准备了装好

水及糖的锅子,倒入一大盘金色浆果。

他说:「这种莓果在芬兰各岛上俯拾

即有,内涵海洋矿物质,对人体极有益处。

味涩而浓,要做成甜点可就需要一点技巧

了。」

索沙 将煮过的浆果冷却后做成酸酸

的黄色方形果冻,与香甜的白巧克力芭菲

形成绝配。

索沙美妙的北欧料理直接而清纯。

不管眼前端上来的是什么菜色,索沙 似乎都能让宾客感受每种食材最真实的原

味。享受他的料理让我感觉如远离亚热

带的香港,置身於松树及冷水湖环绕的

北方大地。这是一趟让我心满意足的美

食之旅。

Finds Nordic1/F The Luxe Manor, 39 Kimberley Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong

尖沙咀金巴利道 39號帝樂文娜公館 1樓q+852 2522 9318

Mon–Thurs 18:30–00:00Fri–Sat 18:30–02:00; Sun 18:30–23:00HKD 300-500ACasual Chic

/dining/fiNDS

tasting notes

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A praline-feathered Na’vi Warrior,

顶级艺术巧克力飨宴

Chocolate Kong and other edible wonders

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t’s all edible – every last bit, every ear, every finger, feather, flipper

and spear. These sculptures are made of chocolate – lots of chocolate and pralines and margarine and cocoa butter, along with lots of expertise, ingenuity and hard work.

Pastry teams spend weeks planning and designing. Days tempering, molding, and sculpting. Hours revising and repairing. The resulting showpieces are guaranteed to draw gasps of wonder and admiration.

Does anyone actually get to eat these masterpieces?

“Sometimes maybe,” says Regis Monges, executive pastry chef of the Grand Hyatt Macau and a judge at the recent Macau 6th

Chapter Pastry Competition. “Realistically, no one really buys a chocolate showpiece. They’re extremely hard to make and to transport.”

Chocolate showpieces are the pastry world’s equivalent of the audacious designs seen on haute couture fashion runways. Just as elements of high fashion designs trickle down into ready-to-wear garments, pastry showpiece designs also influence the work done in cake shops and confectionary stores.

“Any pastry competition is an opportunity to bring techniques to the next level. We don’t make showpieces for the commercial aspect,” says Regis. “We grow and the profession grows.”

眼见所及通通都可以吃,耳朵、手指、羽毛、

脚蹼和长矛,没有不能吃的。这一个个栩栩如

生的雕像全都以巧克力制作-大量的巧克力、

果仁糖、乳玛琳及可可油,再加上无限创意及

妙手生花的技巧,更需要极大的心力才能完成。

糕点团队历经数周设计与安排,多日捏塑、

铸型与雕琢,数时的微调及修整,才能成就如

此令人屏息且惊艳不已的完美成果。

真的有人舍得将这些巧夺天工的艺术品吃

下肚吗?

「还是会啊」,澳门君悦大酒店糕点行政主

厨 Regis Monges 笑着说。最近,他获邀担任

第六届澳门糕点大赛评审之一,Regis 表示:「艺

术巧克力做工繁复、搬运困难,不会有人真要

买回家的。」

艺术巧克力如同伸展台上的高级订制服,

是糕点界前卫大胆设计的试金石。一如高级

订制服的时尚元素对成衣设计的影响,艺术

巧克力斧凿的痕迹也可见于一般蛋糕及甜点

店中。

「糕点比赛正是提升技术层次的绝佳机

会。我们制作艺术巧克力不为任何商业目的。」 Regis 强调 :「我们希望的是带动整体糕点业

界一 同成长。」

“Desire” (欲望) by Sands Macao Pastry Sous Chef Poon Ka Tung (潘嘉通)

“Bathing” (沐浴) by City of Dreams’ Sous Chef Lai Chu (黎柱)

“Vogue” (时尚) by Wynn Macau’s Andrew Tan Chu Hap (李永成)

“Instinct and Intuition” 本能与直觉) by Grand Hyatt Macau’s Demi Chef Allan V. Salve (The title page lizard is part of this same showpiece. / 封面蜥蜴正是同作品的一部分)

1 2

3 4

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1 23 4

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African Avatar” (非洲阿凡达) by Galaxy Macau’s Jaime Punzalan

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“Born to Be Wild” (天生狂野) by IFT’s Pastry Artisan Ronald Grindulo Gonzales

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“Prayer” (祈祷) by The Venetian Macao’s

Sun Qing Ye (孙青野)

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World Class

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seductive deconstruction

穿越时空的诱惑

China Rouge is one of the sexiest bars in Asia

World Class

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MolECulAr STrAwbErry DAIquIrI草莓分子德基利雞尾酒

by Roy Kong, China Rouge Bar Manager红伶吧经理Roy 特制

Zacapa Rum 朗姆酒

Cointreau 君度橙酒

Gomme Syrup 糖浆

Lime 青柠

Strawberry 草莓

Ice 冰块

Pour rum, Cointreau and Gomme syrup into a shaker with ice. Shake well and pour into a Martini glass. Prepare the lime juice foam by whisking with an electric blender. Place the foam on top of the cocktail in the Martini glass. Prepare the strawberry caviar. Serve the caviar with a spoon, apart from the cocktail. Enjoy.

将朗姆酒丶君度橙酒及糖浆倒入摇酒器

内,撤底摇均再倒入马提尼酒杯内。用

搅拌器把青柠汁制成泡沫,把泡沫放於

马提尼酒杯内的鸡尾酒上。准备草莓汁

珍珠,可将草莓汁珍珠分开放置。请享

用吧 !

World Class

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World Class sponsored feature

红伶的装潢,以 1930 年代风靡上海的装

饰艺术为主题,以绮丽神秘、追求享乐的

流金年华为背景,东方巴黎的奢华元素,

惊艳大胆的当代艺术品与后现代风格的滑

亮精致被完美融合 。不,红伶并不在怀旧:

红伶, 已经独成一格,成为现代性感的代

名词。

俱乐部酒吧经理 Roy 以红伶的性感诱

惑风格为灵感,特别调制了一款 草莓分

子德基利鸡尾酒。保持所有德基利鸡尾酒

原有的甜酸滋味,却将所有元素分解:液

体的朗姆酒,青柠变成了泡沫,再配上草

莓汁珍珠。

“ 各种味道将会在你的口中混合。”

Roy 说。嗯,真是很性感的鸡尾酒!。

The déCor at China Rouge harks back to 1930s Shanghai, when art deco was all the rage and the sensually decadent pastimes of choice ranged through all the happy human vices in the book. But the mood at China Rouge isn’t nostalgic for sexy times gone by: those Paris-of-the-Orient elements have been cleverly fused with contemporary art and polished postmodern touches. China Rouge puts on its own new kind of sexy.

Bar Manager Roy Kong has created a cocktail that perfectly symbolizes China Rouge’s postmodern sexiness: the molecu-lar strawberry daiquiri. All the sweet-sour elements of a classic daiquiri are present, but they’ve been deconstructed: the rum is liquid; the lime has been turned to foam; and the sweet element appears in the form of strawberry caviar.

“You mix the daiquiri in your mouth,” says Roy. And that’s a sexy thing to do.

cocktails

China Rouge Bar Manager Roy Kong

红伶吧经理Roy

Zacapa is the rum of World Class, the global competition which celebrates the skill and style of the world’s best bartenders. Follow all the action at facebook.com/WorldClassHK.

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MACAu澳門

Hotel okura Macau 澳门大仓酒店Hotel Okura Macau, Galaxy Macau ™, COTAI, Macau澳門大倉酒店 「澳門銀河 ™」綜合渡假城 澳門路氹城www.hotelokuramacau.com

the crystal Piano 水晶鋼琴 5 Bar & Lounge

28/Fq+853 8883 5109

18:00–02:00 Closed Wed MOP 60 and upA Smart CasualH www.hotelokuramacau.com

Sakazuki Sake Bar 清酒盃 5 Sake Bar

2/F q +853 8883 5125

16:00–24:00 Tues–Sun MOP 60 and upA Smart CasualH www.hotelokuramacau.com

Yamazato山裡 5 Japanese/Kaiseki

2/Fq +853 8883 5127

12:00–22:30 Tues–Sun MOP 300 and upA Casual ChicH www.hotelokuramacau.com

terrace restaurant 和庭餐廳 5 International

2/F q +853 8883 5122 & 8883 5126

07:00–24:00 MOP 100 and upA Resort CasualH www.hotelokuramacau.com

StarWorld Hotel Macau 星际酒店Avenida da Amizade友誼大馬路www.starworldmacau.com

Inagiku 稻菊日本料理Scrumptious tempura made with supreme-grade sesame oil and a sashimi platter featuring prime toro.以百分百天然芝麻油天婦羅享譽盛名,還有特級金鎗魚腩雜錦刺身拼盤。

5 Japanese 5/Fq +853 8290 8668

12:00–14:30, 18:00–23:00A Casual ChicH www.macau.com/ dining/inagiku

Whisky BarLive music, top quality drinks, free snacks, great views, and a cigar room.

5 Bar 16/F q +853 8290 8698

17:00–02:00 Mon-Thu & Sun 17:00–03:00 Fri-Sat A Casual Chic

lax cafe5 Western Cuisine

Rua De Braganca No. 120. L J. Y RC EDIF. Supreme Flower City, Taipa

q+853 2884 3093 10:00- 22:00 MOP 50+A Casual

Morton‘s the SteakhouseEnjoy USDA prime-aged steaks, fresh seafood and decadent desserts. 享受 USDA特選等級牛排,新鮮海鮮及各式精緻甜點。

5 Western Shop 1016The Venetian Macao-Resort-Hotel, Estrada da Baía de N. Senhora da Esperança, s/n 威尼斯人度假村

澳門仔望德聖母灣大馬路

q +853 8117 5000 Bar: 15:00–00:00 Mon–Sat & 15:00–23:00 Sun,

Dining room: 17:00–23:00 Mon–Sun

Over MOP 300A Casual ChicH www.mortons.com/macau

Poker caféA unique poker-themed restaurant in Macau.以撲克為主題,最具有澳門特色的主題餐廳。

5 International Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro, Avenida de Cinco de Outubro No. 147新馬路十月初五街 147號

q+853 28924370 11:00-04:00 MOP 30 to 80A Casual

the tasting room 膳房Excellent contemporary European cuisine by Chef Guillaume Gaillot: every delicious ingredient on the plate has a sense of purpose.當代歐陸料理出自主廚

Guillaume Gaillot之手,任一食材都是不可或缺的完美存在 。

5 European Contemporary 3/F, Crown Towers 皇冠酒店 Estrada do Istmo 廣東大馬路澳門新濠天地

q+853 8868 6681 12:00–15:00 Sun–Sat, 18:00–23:00 Sun–Sat

MOP 200 to 300A Casual Chic

Yamazato山裡

sponsored restaurant listingssponsored restaurant listingssponsored restaurant listings

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The history of this famous restaurant spans over four generations and more than a century. Fat Siu Lau

opened its first branch in 2006, Fat Siu Lau 2 is situated in the bar street area, next to MGM Grand, with its bright red unique color scheme and huge windows providing enchanting views of the nearby lake. Fat Siu Lau 3, on the other hand, is located in Taipa village near Galaxy Macau with a green European motif. It can cater for private parties up to 100 persons. Menu highlights include perennial favorites like roast pigeon (prepared to a 105-year-old secret recipe), curry crab, African chicken and grilled prawns.

要數澳門歷史悠久及著名的葡式餐廳,「佛笑樓」應該是當之無愧了。餐廳開業至

現在已超過一個世紀,當中經過了四代人的悉

心經營。遐邇馳名的燒乳鴿,是佛笑樓的招牌

菜,采用祖傳秘方炮制。其他經典菜式有咖喱

炒蟹、非洲雞、扒魔鬼大蝦。

為了迎合發展,佛笑樓在2006年於酒吧街開

了佛笑樓2,裝潢以紅色為主調,可透過玻璃望

向海傍景色。而佛笑樓3更位於 仔著名的手信

及美食街——地堡街,与剛開業的澳門銀河為

鄰。餐廳以清新綠色為主調,可舉行多達100人

的私人派對。

Century old ClassiC 百年經典葡菜

Roast pigeon 燒乳鴿

Curry Crab 葡式咖喱蟹

佛笑樓 2 (皇朝店)˙Fat Siu Lau 2

佛笑樓 2 (皇朝店) Fat Siu Lau 2Avn. Dr. Sun Yat-Sen, Edf. Vista Magnifica Court, Macau (Opposite of Kun Ian Statue)

澳門孫逸仙大馬路帝

景苑

(觀音像對面)

Tel: (853) 2872 2922

Other branches 其他分店

佛笑樓˙Fat Siu Lau

Rua da Felicidade No.64, Macau

澳門褔隆新街64號

Tel: (853) 2857 3580

佛笑樓 3

Fat Siu Lau 3

Rua Do Regedor

181-185 R/C, Taipa

仔地堡街

181-185號地下

Tel: (853) 2882 5257

*新濠天地有免費穿梭巴士直到地堡街

Fat Siu Lau 2 佛笑樓 2 (皇朝店)

HoNG KoNG

carpaccio Paste Pizza Vino Shop 307, 3rd Floor, iSQUARE, 63 Nathan Road

尖沙咀彌敦道 63號 iSQUARE 國際廣場 3樓 307號鋪

5 Italianq +852 2328 5202

10:00–24:00 HKD 200-400A Casual

divino Patio Shop 11, 1/F, Causeway Centre, No. 28 Harbour Road

灣仔港灣道 28號灣景中心(Brim 28)1樓 11號鋪

5 Italianq +852 2877 3552

11:30–24:00 HKD 250-500A Smart Casual

divino Wine Bar & restaurant 73 Wyndham Street 香港中環雲咸街 73號 5 Italianq +852 2167 8883

Mon-Sat: 12:00 till late Sun: 18:00 till late

HKD 150-300A Casual

c’est la B Pacific Place Shop 202 Level 2 Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty,金鐘道 88號太古廣場 2樓 202號鋪

5 Cafe Barq +852 2536 0173

10:00–10:00 Sun–Wed10:00–00:00 Thur–Sat

HKD 200A Smart Casual

Goccia G/F & 1/F, 2, 73 Wyndham St. 中環雲咸街 73號地下及 1樓 5 Barq +852 2167 8181

Mon-Fri: 12:00 till late; Sat & Sun: 18:00 till late

HKD 100-300A Casual

l’atelier de Joël robuchon Shop 401, 4/F The Landmark, Central

中環德輔道中 12–16號置地廣場 4樓 401號舖

5 French Contemporaryq +852 2166 9000

07:30–10:00, 12:00–14:30, 18:30–22:30

HKD 500+ A Smart Casual

Spasso Italian Bar and restaurant

Shop 403, Level 4, Ocean Centre, Harbour City 尖沙咀廣東道 17號海港城海洋中心4樓 403號鋪

5 Italian q +852 2730 8027

12:00–23:30 HKD 300-500A Casual

Starz Wine Bar G/F, UA Cinema, Citygate Outlets, 20 Tat Tung Road, Tung Chung, Lantau

東湧達東路 20號東薈城地下 UA 戲院

5 Westernq +852 2109 0612

11:00–23:00 HKD 40-100A Casual

Studio city Bar & café Shop No.12, L11/F, Enterprise Square, 38 Wang Chiu Road

九龍灣宏照道 38號MegaBox 11樓 12號鋪

5 Americanq +852 3543 5638

12:00–23:00 HKD 100-150A Casual

thai orchids café & Bar 泰 •蘭花

Shop 9, 11/F, Enterprise Square Five, 38 Wang Chiu Rd

九龍灣宏照道 38號MegaBox 11樓 9號鋪

5 Thaiq +852 3543 5633

12:00–23:00 HKD 40-100A Causal

Flutes champagne and cocktail Bar

27 Elgin Street 中環蘇豪伊利近街 27號地下 5 Barq +852 2810 0005

17:00–02:00 HKD 50-150A Casual

8 1/2 otto e Mezzo – Bombana

202 Alexandra House, 18 Chater Road Rd., Central

中環德輔道中 5–17號歷山大廈 2樓 202號舖

5 Italianq +852 2537 8859

Lunch: 12:00–14:30 Mon-SatDinner: 18:30–22:30 Mon-Sat

HKD 500+ A Smart Casual

sponsored restaurant listingssponsored restaurant listingssponsored restaurant listings

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tasting kitchen is available at more than 100 newsstands and bookshops across the region, and at all of the following fine resorts, hotels and restaurants.

MACAu

HotelSAltira Macau 澳門新濠鋒Banyan Tree Macau 澳門悅榕莊COD, Crown Tower 澳門皇冠渡假酒店COD, Grand Hyatt 君悅酒店COD, Hard Rock HotelGalaxy Macau 澳門銀河酒店Grand Emperor Hotel 英皇娛樂酒店Grand Lapa 澳門金麗華酒店Grand Lisboa 澳門新葡京Grand Waldo 澳門金都酒店Hotel Lisboa 葡京酒店Hotel Okura Macau 澳門大倉酒店Hotel San Tiago 澳門聖地牙哥古堡酒店

L'Arc 澳門凱旋門Lan Kwai Fong 澳門蘭桂坊酒店Landmark 置地廣場酒店Mandarin Oriental 澳門文華東方酒店 MGM Macau 澳門美高梅酒店Pousada de Mong-Ha, IFT 望廈迎賓館

Rocks Hotel 萊斯酒店Sofitel 澳門十六浦索菲特大酒店StarWorld Hotel 星際酒店Waldo Hotel 澳門華都酒店Westin Resort Macau 澳門威斯汀酒店

Wynn Macau 永利澳門

Hotel reStauraNtS Aurora 奧羅拉Aux Beaux Arts 寶雅座Bambu 渢竹Beijing Kitchen 滿堂彩Belcanção 嗚詩餐廳Belon 貝隆Bene 班尼意大利餐廳Café Bela Vista 薈景閣咖啡廳Café Deco 峄景餐廳Café Lan 蘭苑咖啡廳City Café, CODConrad Lobby Lounge 康萊德大堂酒廊Copa Steakhouse 高雅扒房Edo Restaurant 江峄日本料理Feast 盛宴餐廳Festiva 群芳Fogosamba 巴西扒房Fortune Inn Restaurant 富臨軒Golden Court 金沙角Gosto 葡軒Grand Emperor Court 皇廷閣Hard Rock Café Il Teatro 帝雅廷意大利餐廳Imperial Court 金殿堂Inagiku 稻菊Jade Garden 蘇浙匯Kam Lai Heen 金麗軒Kings of Kings 帝皇殿Kira 吉良L'Arc Lounge 凱旋廊La PalomaLan 嵐Laurel 丹桂軒Lei Garden 利苑Madeira Portuguese 小島Majestic Robatayaki 貴族峄端燒Mandarin Oriental LobbyMcSorley'sMezza 9MGM Patisserie MGM 咖啡餅店Mistral 海風餐廳MJ CaféMonsoon 季風Morton's SteakhouseMyung Ga Korean Restaurant名家韓國餐廳

Naam Thai 灆泰國菜餐廳Nagomi 和大堂酒廊Old Shanghai 老上海

OsgatosPak Lok 百樂潮州Palms 喜柏大堂酒廊PatisseriePetrus 碧翠軒Ping 御品居Pink Grill 闊董Rain Restaurant 雨Rossio 盛事Royal Orchid 秀蘭小館Russian Room 魚子屋Saffron 尚坊Shanghainese 456 四五六Spice Garden 香草園Square 8 食八方Temptations 品味坊Tenmasa 天政Terrace 和庭餐廳Terrazza 庭園地中海餐廳The Chinese Restaurant 凱旋軒The Hotness 巴渝食府The Royal Kitchen 御廚The Tasting Room 御膳坊Toei Delights 東瀛十八番Treasure Palace 喜迎樓Tsui Wah 翠華Varanda 怡心閣Vergnano Italian 葦嘉勞意大利Vida Rica Restaurant 御苑餐廳Windows Restaurant 華屋Xin 鮮Yamazato 山里Ying 帝影Zi Yat Heen 紫逸軒

Hotel BarS & louNGeSBar Azul 名峄酒吧Cascades 水簾Florian Bar 洛欣吧Macallan Whiskey Bar & Lounge 麥卡倫威士忌吧

Pearl Lounge 水明珠R Bar 樂吧Rendezvous 大堂吧Sakazuki 清酒盃Spectra BarThe Crystal Piano 水晶綱琴Vasco 乘風廊Vida Rica Bar 御苑酒廊Wave 浪淘Whisky Bar 品味吧 Windor Lounge 溫莎廊

reStauraNtS360° Café 旅轉餐廳A Lorcha 船屋葡國餐廳A Petisqueira 葡國美食天地Akasaka Café 赤板Albergue 1601 婆仔屋餐廳Andrew's Café - University of Macau 安德魯咖啡廊

Antica Trattoria 經典意大利餐廳 Antonio Restaurant 安東尼奧餐廳Banza 百性餐廳Café Litoral 海灣咖啡屋Camoes Restaurant 賈梅士葡國餐廳Clube Militar de Macau 澳門陸軍俱樂部Cozinha Pinocchio Taipa 木偶葡國餐廳

Fat Siu Lau 佛笑樓Henri's Galley 美心亨利餐廳Hero Chinese Restaurant 川粵食府La Bonne Heure 良辰餐廳La Cucina 我的意大利廚房 Lord Stow's Bakery - Coloane 安德魯咖啡廊

Lua Azul 南湖明月Macau Dynasty Café 澳門皇朝咖啡Men Mung Seafood 名門海鮮火Miramar Restaurant 澳門海景正宗葡國餐廳

O Porto Interior Restaurante 內港餐廳

Old Taipa Tavern 好客鄉莊Pizzeria Toscana 比薩薄峄店 Portal Wine Bar 大門酒吧Restaurant Litoral 海灣餐廳Restaurante Escada 大堂街八號葡國餐廳

Restaurante Espaco Lisboa 里斯本地帶餐廳

Restaurante Fernando 法蘭度餐廳Talay Thai Restaurant 廚泰餐廳The Corner's 角落餐廳The Roadhouse 酒吧

cluBHouSeSCaesars Golf 凱撒高爾夫French Wine Institute 法國紅酒學會La Baie du Noble 海名居La Cite 寰宇天下Lake View Tower 湖畔名門Macau Golf & Country Club 澳門高爾夫球鄉村俱樂部

Macau International Airport lounge 機場貴賓室

Macau Jockey Club 澳門賽馬會會所Manhattan 曼克頓Millennium Court 世紀豪庭Nova City 豪庭都會Ocean Garden clubhouse 海洋會所One Central Clubhouse 壹號湖畔Tenis Civil 文員網球會The Buckingham 皇族The Pacifica Garden 海茵怡居The Praia 海擎天The Residencia 君悅灣

coFFee SHoPSCafé Ou Mun 澳門咖啡Cuppa Coffee 卡巴咖啡店

CUPPACOFFEEIlly CoffeePacific Coffee - Galaxy, COD, SCC &

The ResidenciaSinging Bean coffee 音樂豆咖啡Starbucks 星巴克 - 全澳 5間分店

HealtH & SPaAltira Spa 澄Banyan Tree - Spa 悅榕莊Bodhi Spa 康萊德菩提水療 Crown - The Spa 皇冠 ·漾日水療中心Four Season - Spa 四季酒店Grand Lapa Spa 金麗華Isala Spa 君悅 ·怡水療中心Malo Clinic Spa 馬瀧綜合康健醫療中心Mandarin Oriental - The Spa 文華東方Rock Spa - Hard Rock ·騰水療中心Royal Thai Spa 英皇水療Shine Spa 喜來登炫逸水療中心Six Senses Spa 美高梅The Spa at Encore 萬利理療康體中心The Spa at Wynn 永利澳門理療康體中心

HoNG KoNG

reStauraNtS208 Duecento OttoAh Yat Harbour View Restaurant阿一海景飯店

AmberAngel's ShareBo Innovation 廚魔BourbonCapriceCarpaccio Pasta Pizza Vino Casa LisboaCépageChilli Fagara 麻辣燙Club @28  

Where to Find tKWhere to Find tK"Where to Find tK

Cuisine Cuisine (IFC) 國金軒Cuisine Cuisine at the Mira 國金軒Da Ping Huo 四川菜大平伙Divino PatioDivino Wine Bar & RestaurantDouble Happiness CaféDynasty (Wan Chai) 滿福樓FeastFelixFINDS Fish Bar & Grill 魚吧Flutes Champagne and Cocktail barFook Lam Moon (Wan Chai)Forum Restaurant 富臨飯店Fu Ho Restaurant (Tsim Sha Tsui) 富豪酒家

Gaddi's 吉地士Gaylord Indian RestaurantGingko house 銀杏館Goccia Restorante Bar TerraceHard Rock CaféHoi King Heen 海景軒HydeInn Side OutIsland Seafood & Oyster BarIsland TangIsolaJashan Celebrating Indian CuisineKudos  L’Atelier de Joël RobuchonLei Garden (IFC)Lung King HeenMask of Si ChuenMing Court 明閣mini dans la villeMirrorNagahama No. 1 Ramen 長浜 No.1拉麵

Nicholini's One-ThirtyonePetrusPierrePortobelloPrime Cellar Wine Tasting RoomSahara Mezz BarSashay café and wine bar SCIROCCOSevvaShui Hu Ju 水滸居Spasso Italian barSpoon by Alain DucasseSpring Moon 嘉麟樓Starz Wine BarStudio City Bar & CaféSugar (Bar.Deck.Lounge) Summer Palace 夏宮Sushi Kuu 壽司喰T'ang Court 唐閣Thai Orchids Café & Bar 泰 ‧蘭花The Press RoomThe Quarterdeck Hong KongThe Square 翠玉軒Tim's Kitchen 桃花源小廚Wagyu Kaiseki DenYan Toh Heen 欣圖軒YardbirdYat Tung Heen (Wan chai) 逸東軒 (灣仔 )

Yorkshire Pudding

TK IN TrANSIT

Air Macau 澳門航空Avis 華國租車服務有限公司Burgeon Rent a car 百路達自動車租賃Jet Asia 私人飛機Macau Jet 國際商務航空Sky Shuttle 空中快線直升機Turbojet 噴射飛航

TK04_XX_LISTINGS NEW_7APDF_ZZ.indd 62 12年11月3日 下午3:21TK04_AD_Sky 21_7APDF_ZZ.indd 1 12年11月3日 下午4:39

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Chef Michele dell'Aquila of Altira Macau's Aurora gives white truffles a prominent role in his Tiramisu Biscotto con Tartufo Bianco, which playfully combines the contrasting flavors and textures of white truffle, soft biscotto, Italian meringue

and chocolate sauce, chocolate sorbet, coffee Chantilly cream, and wafers and crumbles of coffee, chocolate and vanilla.

澳门新濠锋酒店「Aurora」意式餐厅主厨Michele dell'Aquila的松露酥饼「Biscotto con Tartufo Bianco」以白松露为主,巧妙结合了味

道及口感各有千秋的多种食材 -- 白松露、意式酥饼、意式蛋白霜、巧克力酱、巧克力冰糕、咖啡鲜奶油、咖啡碎片、巧克力及香草。

dessert

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