Embed Size (px)
Citation preview
notch
facing1/2”extension
use for:grainlinelayoutcutting fabricpattern markingsdartsseamscollarsclosures
cut 1 fabric on foldcut 2 with facing
cut 2interfacing
cent
erfr
ont
fold
Front Bodice #1
1To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle Chapter 2
Chapter 4Chapter 6Chapter 17
2
stit
chto
mat
chpo
ints
for
dart
tuck
fro
ntbo
dic
e#2
no
tch
stit
chto
mat
chpo
ints
for
dart
tuck
s
toco
mpl
ete
the
patt
ern
join
bod
ice
#1to
#2at
circ
le
To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle
Fron
tBod
ice
#2
Chapter 2Chapter 4Chapter 6Chapter 17
3
cut 2 fabric
use for:grainlinelayoutcutting fabricpattern markingsdartsseamscollars
cut
her
efo
rce
nter
back
seam
cent
erba
ckfo
ld
Back Bodice #1
To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circleChapter 2Chapter 4Chapter 6
4
stitch to matchpointsfor dart tuck front bodice #2
notch
stitch to matchpointsfor dart tucks
To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle
Back Bodice #2
Chapter 2Chapter 4Chapter 6Chapter 17
5
front bodice #1cut 1
cent
erfr
ont
plac
eo
nfo
ld
To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle
French Curved Dart
Chapter 4
6
French Curved Dart
To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle Chapter 4
fisheye/contoureddart cut 1 in fabric
c.f.
fold
Fisheye/Contoured Dart
7
Chapter 4
notch notch
stitching line
this is not the stitchingline – it is a guide to showthe difference between thecurved stitching and straightdart line
cut 1 in fabric
cent
erfr
ont
–pl
ace
on
fold
Curved Waist Dart
8Chapter 4
cut 1
notch notchfold line
facing cut 1 interfacing
Square/Round Patch Pocket
9Chapter 5
10
welt pocket lining cut 1 here
cut 1
use for:welt pocketcut 1 in fabriccut 1 lining(as above)
opening
Square/Round PatchPocket Lining
Chapter 5
11
width
cut 2 fabriccut 1 interfacing
Pocket Flap
Chapter 5
cut 2
cen
ter
fro
nt
Shorts Front with Angled Side Pocket
12Chapter 5
13
cut 2
Angled Side PocketLining
Chapter 5
14
cut 2
Angled Side Pocket
Chapter 5
pocketplacem
ent
cut on fold
no
tch
wh
encu
to
nfo
ld
cut 1 on fold for gathered seamcut 1 on fold for faced rufflecut 1 on fold for single rufflecut 1 on fold for straight narrow rolled hem
cut
her
efo
rsi
ng
leru
ffle
cut 1 fabric here on fold for eased seam
Straight Fabric Section
15
Chapter 6Chapter 10Chapter 15
princess seamfront bodice #1notched/lapel collarcut 2 fabric
cent
erfr
ont
to complete the patternjoin bodice #1 to #2 at circle
matchpointPrincess Seam Front Bodice #1
16 To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle
Chapter 6Chapter 11
17
front bodicenotched/lapelcollar #2
Princess Seam
To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle
Chapter 6Chapter 11
18
front bodnotched/lcollar #2
cut 2 fabric
To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle
Princess Seam SideFront Bodice
Chapter 6Chapter 11
19
cut
1fa
bric
Conc
ave
Curv
e
Chapter 6
20
cut
1fa
bri
c
Conv
exCu
rve
Chapter 6
21
cut 1 fabric
use for: v shaped seamwaistbandwaist facingbias waist finishcurved a line hembias false hem
c.f.
fold
matchpoint
Front Skirt
Chapter 6Chapter 9Chapter 12Chapter 15
22
cut 1 fabriccut 1 interfacing
use for: v shape seamwaistbandwaist facingbias waist finish c.
f.fo
ldmatchpoint
Front Yoke
Chapter 6Chapter 9Chapter 12
23 Chapter 6Chapter 8Chapter 9Chapter 12Chapter 15
mark dart point here
cut 2 fabric
use for:seamszipperswaistbandwaist facingbias waist finishcurved a-line hembias false hem
Back Skirt
24
cut 1
matchpoint
Godet
Chapter 6
25
cut 1 fabriccut 2 underlining
c.f.
fold
notch
Princess SeamStrapless Front Bodice
Chapter 6
26
cut 2 fabriccut 2 underlining
Princess SeamStrapless SideFront Bodice
Chapter 6
to complete pattern join pleats #1 to #2 at circlen
otch
no
tchn
otch
box
inve
rted
box
inve
rted
inve
rted
knife
pleatkn
ifepleat
knife
no
tch
no
tch
no
tch
no
tchall
pleats(to
pan
dbo
ttom
)
cut
1,u
sefo
r:in
vertedbo
xkn
ife
Pleats#1
27To complete the pattern join pleats #1 to #2 at circle
no
tchn
otch
no
tch
box
inve
rted
box
box
inve
rted
knife
pleatpleat
knife
pleat
no
tch
no
tch
no
tch
cut
1,u
sefo
r:in
vertedbo
xkn
ife
no
tchall
pleats(to
pan
dbo
ttom
)
to complete pattern join pleats #1 to #2 at circle
Pleats#2
To complete the pattern join pleats #1 to #2 at circle28
matchpoint
matchpoint
use for:kickpleat (cut 2 fabric)hem split (cut 2 fabric)vent cut (1 fabric w.s.u)
fold
lin
e
cut 2interfacingfor hemsplit
cut 1 for vent
notch
notch
Kick Pleat
29
Chapter 7Chapter 16
matchpoint
cut 1 fabric
Kick PleatUnderlay
30Chapter 7
fly front
matchpoint
Fly Front
31Chapter 8
5”zi
pper
len
gth
cut
1si
de
toh
ere
cut 1 fabric cut 1 interfacing
Fly FrontExtension
32
Chapter 8
cut 1/2interfacing
cut 1/2interfacing
exte
nsi
on
stra
igh
tw
aist
ban
d#2
cut
1fa
bric
stra
igh
tw
aist
ban
d#1
cut
infa
bric
to complete the pattern, joinwaistband #1 to #2 at circle.
cbsi
de
seam
Stra
ight
Wai
stba
nd#1
33
Stra
ight
Wai
stba
nd#2
To complete the pattern, join waistband #1 to #2 at circle
Chapter 9
gra
inli
ne
cutt
ing
lin
e
use for:single flounce (cut 1)gathered flounce (cut 2)overlaping flounce (cut 2)mock seam (cut 1)edgestitch (cut 1)circular narrowrolled hem (cut 7)
flounce
stitch here for narrow rolled hem
1/4” se
amal
low
ance
for
single
flounce
1/2
” allo
wan
cefo
rg
athe
red
flounce
Flounce
34Chapter 10Chapter 15
cut 2cut 1 interfacing
c.b.fold
Mandarin Collar
35
Chapter 11
36
cut 2cut 1 interfacing
c.b.fold
Shirt Collar
Chapter 11
37
cut 1cut 1 interfacing
c.b.
fold
matchpoint
Notched/LapelUpper Collar
Chapter 11
38
cut 2 on biasmatchpoint
Notched/LapelUnder Collar
Chapter 11
39
matchpoint
cut 2cut 2 interfacing
1
ed/lapelfacing #2
to complete the patternjoin facing #1 and #2 at circle
Notched Lapel Collar Facing #1
To complete the pattern join facing #1 to #2 at circle
40
cut 1cbfo
ld
notched/lapelcollar facing #2
to complete the pjoin facing #1 an
To complete the pattern join facing #1 to #2 at circle
41
cut 1cbfo
ld
Back NeckFacing
42
c.f. fold
fro
ntcu
t1
on
fold
fabr
iccu
t1
on
fold
inte
rfac
ing
Fron
tNec
kFa
cing
Chapter 12
43
cut
2fab
riccu
t2
interfacing
BackSquare
NeckFacing
Chapter 12
44
cut 2 fabriccut 2 interfacing
Back WaistFacing
Chapter 12
45
cut 2 fabric
no
tches
no
tches
shirt sleeve placket cut this length
Continuous Placket
Chapter 13
46
fold
line
cut 2 fabric
ShirtSleevePlacket
Chapter 13
47Chapter 13
tuck
no
tchn
otch
tuck
cut 2 fabric
Tucked Shirt Sleeve
48
cut 2
cut
cut 1/2 interfacing
cuff
len
gth
shir
tsl
eeve
plac
ket
cuff
len
gth
toh
ere
cont
inu
ou
spl
acke
t
Cuff
Chapter 13
49
cut 2
Full Size Front ArmholeEased Set-in Sleeve
Chapter 14
50
cut 2
Full Size Back Armhole #1Eased Set-in Sleeve
To complete the pattern join back armhole #1 to #2 at circle
Chapter 12Chapter 14
51
cut
2
Full
Size
Back
Arm
hole
#2Ea
sed
Set-i
nSl
eeve
To complete the pattern join back armhole #1 to #2 at circle
Chapter 12Chapter 14
cut 2
match notchto shoulder seam
Front Set-in Sleeve
52
Chapter 14
cut 2
Back Set-in Sleeve
53
Chapter 14
notch
notch
notch
matchpoint
ventcut 1 fabricw.s.u.
fold
lin
e
interfacingcut 1
Vent
54
Chapter 15
55
notch
matchpoints
notch
hem split lininguse for:hem split (cut 2 in lining)vent (cut 1 lining w.s.u.)
Hem Split Lining Chapter 16
56
notch
notch
matchpoint
vent liningcut 1 w.s.u.
Vent Lining
Chapter 16
57
right front left front
cent
erfr
ont
cent
erfr
ont
Button and Buttonhole Placement WorksheetShirt with Front Band and Mandarin Collar
58
neckline
cent
erfr
ont
cent
erfr
ont
right front left front
Button and Buttonhole Placement WorksheetShirt with No Band or Collar
