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~~ Frequently Asked Questions ~~Kids ask the darnest things ... "A good question is a powerful thing":

Question: Why doesn't water enter the bowl when I try to flush my toilet?

A: If you are certain that the water supply is turned on, carefully remove the lid to the toilet tank and you will probably find that the chain or strap to the flapper has broken or come loose.

Question:What Kind of Toilet Paper Should I Use?

A: There are not many toilet papers on the market, if any, that can't safely be used in a septic system. Toilet paper breaks down very easily and quickly, and that's the important part. However, facial tissue (Kleenex) and paper towels do NOT break down easily, and should never be flushed down a toilet. University of Maryland, College of Agriculture and Natural Resources

Question: Can rats really come through a toilet?

Hands Free Automatic Seat

Hinged Elevated Toilet Seat

Adjustable Flapper

Jet Plunger

Toilet Safety Frame

Uplifting Experience

A: A picture is worth a thousand words. View the video.

Question: What causes condensation on the outside of a toilet tank, and is there any way to stop it from forming?

A: Condensation on the outside of a toilet tank is the result of humid air in the room coming in contact with the cold tank. Youve seen this happen on a glass filled with a cold drink. Condensation on a toilet tank is most often a problem in the summer in humid climates; but can also be a problem in winter. Houses on well water suffer a great deal from this problem. Houses built beginning in the '70s are more air-tight and energy efficient, consequently humidity is easily trapped indoors

Here are a few more causes/solutions: (pay particular attention to the first suggestion).

IS the toilet leaking? A constant exchange of fresh cold water in the tank will cause condensation to form on the outside of the tank when the humidity is high in the bathroom. Check the toilet for leaks.

Is there enough ventilation in the bathroom? You may need to install an exhaust fan.

In winter, the condensation may be caused by using a humidifier on your heating system; if so, can the humidifier be adjusted?

Toilet tank liner kits are available to insulate the tank, check your local hardware store or home center. You must follow the directions carefully regarding cementing the foam to a clean, dry surface. Even then, the foam will probably loosen after a few years.

Some manufacturers used to make toilet tanks that had a foam liner; I dont know if they still do or not. The factory installed foam also came loose after a number of years of use.

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I've seen a tray advertised in one of those gadget type catalogs that fits under the tank and has a tube that drains accumulated condensation into a container that sits on the floor under the toilet.

Some people claim that using a furry tank cover on the tank helps to prevent the condensation from dripping off the tank. I can't vouch for this however.

Then there are "tempering valves" available that supposedly allow a little bit of water from the hot water supply line to trickle into the cold line. When I tried this, it didn't work, because the hot water line was usually not hot when you first flushed the toilet. By the time the hot water got up to the area of the toilet, the toilet was finished flushing.

Question: This interesting fact was just brought to my attention a few weeks ago. Did you know that in the Northern Hemisphere the water in a toilet goes down counter clockwise and in the Southern Hemisphere it goes down clockwise? I found this to be absurd, but sure enough that is how it works. Do you know the scientific explanation for this? If so let me know. I can't think of any reason why this is true. Aloha C.O. in Honolulu.

A: The phenomenon you asked about is referred to as the "Coriolis effect or force" after the scientist who first discussed the force created by the earth's rotation acting upon anything moving above the earth's surface by causing it to curve to the right in the Northern Hemisphere and to the left in the Southern Hemisphere. HOWEVER: I have learned in researching your question, the direction or rotation in draining sinks and toilets is more likely determined by other factors such as the design of the sink or toilet bowl. I suggest you check out http://www.ems.psu.edu/~fraser/Bad/BadCoriolis.html for a detailed explanation of the topic.

Question: What causes my toilet to turn on and run without anyone touching it?

A: There are several possibilities here. The problem is often referred to as the "Phantom Flush", and usually caused by the design of the refill valve. Consider it a valuable feature; it is signaling that your toilet is leaking at the flush valve. Another cause of this phenomenon is very high water pressure which can force the refill valve to open and have water run for a few seconds. While the leaking flush valve is the most common cause, another cause is a refill tube that is not cut to the proper length and is allowed to drop down into the overflow pipe. This situation can start a siphon that will have a constant flow of water cycling through the toilet which will generate a "Phantom Flush" in toilet with these refill valves.

The Fluidmaster 400A valve is one of the refill valves that will cause a "Phantom Flush" and as noted above has it's good points. But Fluidmaster has eliminated the "Phantom Flush" in the new "400LS PRO" while still providing a means to signal you that your toilet is leaking. The 400LS Pro has a LEAK SENTRY DEVICE that attaches to the underside of the float cup and prevents the cup from dropping until the tank lever is pushed.

The "Phantom Flush" signal works great if you are home, know what it means and take care of the leaks promptly. But if you are away and the flapper is leaking, the "Phantom Flush" allows an inch of water to leak out of the tank and then the cup drops and turns the water on to replenish the 1-inch of lost water. It continues to repeat this refilling of the leaked water until someone replaces the flapper.

Now with the LEAK SENTRY DEVICE, the cup will not drop and turn the water on until someone tries to flush the tank. Then the water turns on and refills the tank, which then permits the tank to be flushed. This will continue to occur until the tank leak is fixed.

Visit the "How to Fix a Flush Valve" at: http://www.toiletology.com/howtofix.shtml for tips on solving the Phantom Flush.

Question: Why is the water level in my toilet bowl lower than I see in many other toilets ?

A. If you have one of the newer 1.6 toilets, many of them are designed to have a very small amount of water left in a bowl after the toilet is flushed. There is nothing you can do about this; the amount of water in these bowls is determined by the shape of the bowl.

To determine what the water level in your toilet bowl should be, slowly pour several gallons of water into the bowl. The water level will settle at the maximum height that your bowl is designed to hold.

On the other hand, if the water level in your bowl after flushing is now lower than it usually is then you have a problem that is more likely correctable.

In this case, the first thing to do is to carefully remove the lid from the tank and check that the little tube from the refill valve is directing water into the overflow pipe. This little tube sometimes gets knocked out of position while someone is making a repair in the tank. The tube should never drop down inside the pipe; it should be clamped to the top edge. This water refills the bowl during the flush.

A low water level in a bowl can also be caused if the toilet is not properly vented, or the vent is clogged. Poor venting can create a vacuum in the system when a toilet is flushed and too much water will be sucked out of the bowl.

A vent can become clogged with a bird's nest, body of a bird, etc. Also, in extremely cold climates an undersized vent can close up due to frost forming on the inside of the vent walls from warm humid air from washing machines, dishwashers, showers, etc. In addition, a vent can become clogged at the fixture connections with grease, soap scum, etc. A clogged vent requires running a snake down through the vent pipe from the roof. Climbing around on a roof is tricky and best left to professionals who have the proper equipment and experience.

Question: What causes my toilet to give off the odor of sewer gas when the toilet is flushed even though my bathroom and toilet are clean?

A. There can be several reasons for this problem. It can be caused by the water level in the toilet bowl dropping too low and allowing sewer gas from the system to enter through the toilet.

Your pet may be drinking from the bowl; the solution is to keep the lid down on the bowl. Photo courtesy of Robert R. Falk

The water can also evaporate from the bowl of an unused toilet, such as in a basement or guest room. In this case, the solution is to regularly flush a toilet that is not used often.

A damaged wax sealing ring under the toilet can allow sewer gas to seep out into the bathroom. If your toilet rocks or

moves, this may be the cause of smells.

Another common source of smells is caused by the organisms that normally reside in the sewer; they can get to the house side of the toilet trap. They take up residence inside the rim of a toilet bowl (as well as the sink and tub overflows) and whenever the toilet is flushed, you will smell sewer gas. The problem most often occurs during hot and humid weather. The SOLUTION is to pour several cups of household bleach into the overflow pipe of the flush valve inside the tank. This will disinfect the rim of the bowl.

Smells in a bathroom can also be caused when the drains in a bathroom are not properly vented, or the vent is clogged. A vent can become clogged with a bird's nest, body of a bird, etc. Also, in extremely cold climates an undersized vent can close up due to frost forming on the inside of the vent walls from warm humid air from washing machines, dishwashers, showers, etc. In addition, a vent can become clogged at the fixture connections with grease, soap scum, etc. A clogged vent requires running a snake down through the vent pipe from the roof. Climbing around on a roof is tricky and best left to professionals who have the proper equipment and experience.

Another possibility is if there is an internal crack in the toilet bowl that allows water to slowly leak into the drain, the water level will gradually drop after the toilet is flushed and allow sewer gas to enter the bathroom. Snaking out a toilet bowl too aggressively can be the cause of such a crack.

Question: Why does a ring of pinkish mold form at the water line of my toilets?

A: Serratia marcescens is probably the culprit. Due to its ubiquitous presence in the environment, and its preference for damp conditions, S. marcesens is commonly found growing in bathrooms (especially on tile grout), where it manifests as a pink discoloration. Once established, complete eradication of the organism is often difficult, but can be accomplished by application of a bleach-based disinfectant. The rim of the toilet bowl needs to be disinfected. The problem most often occurs during hot and humid weather. The SOLUTION is to pour several cups of household bleach into the overflow pipe of the flush valve inside the tank. This will disinfect the rim of the bowl. And you should probably disinfect the overflow drains in the wash basin and bathtub with bleach also. If the problem persists, you will have to wash down the entire bathroom in order to disinfect the whole room.

Question: What causes a hard crust of grey matter to form on the bottom of my toilet bowls?

A: Not flushing a toilet after every use is one reason scale develops in a toilet bowl. For example, I rented a one bedroom apartment to a woman with an infant. The only bathroom in the apartment opened into the bedroom. In order to not wake the baby,

she would not flush the toilet unless absolutely necessary. As the scale began to buildup in the bowl the toilet became more and more tempermental. To add insult to injury, she poured black hair dye into the bowl which turned the grey scale permanently black. The plumber who replaced the toilet said the scale was caused by salts in the urine.

Question: What causes a knocking sound when my toilet flushes?

A: Noises are not always easy to isolate and fix, but I'll try to give you some ideas.

Loose pipes may be knocking against a structural stud or joist. If you can see the pipes below the bathroom, you may be able to cushion them or anchor them with pipe brackets where they touch wood.

High water pressure can be the cause of lots of different types of noises. The desirable household water pressure is about 50 psi. If you have a pressure reducing valve in your system, it may have failed and needs adjusting or replacing. High water pressure also causes the rubber parts inside a toilet refill valve to fail early.

Worn out parts (washer, seal, etc.) inside a refill valve may be the cause and since these parts are usually rather inexpensive, replacing them is the first thing I'd try.

Some houses have builtin air chambers in their water supply system that are meant to cushion the sudden stop in the flow of water. They are in the walls in most cases, so the only thing you can do is hope you have them and that they have become water logged over time. The solution is to turn off your main water supply; open up every faucet in the house to drain all the water from the system. This hopefully restores the air cushions in the chambers if you have them.

You suggest the knocks may be clogged water supply line. Galvanized pipes do become restricted with deposits, but that usually means reduced water pressure, and the toilet tank will be slow to refill. I'd try the above before I attempted to replace galvanized pipes. Here's a link to a good article on plumbing noises: http://www.

factsfacts.com/MyHomeRepair/PipeNoises.htm

Question: How do you remove rust stains from a toilet bowl??

A: There are at least two commercial products available in hardware stores for removing rust stains. One is Iron Out of Iron Out, Inc., 1515 Dividend Rd., Fort Wayne, IN 46808-1126. I've had very good results on a number of occasions with this. Another is ZUD Cleanser a product of Boyle-Midway Inc., New York, NY 10017.

A homemade receipe for a cleanser is to sprinkle "cream of tartar" over the stain then cover the cream of tartar with paper towels. Next saturate the paper towel with hydrogen peroxide and allow it to soak.

I found the following in "Formulas, Methods, Tips and Data for Home and Workshop" by Popular Science and Kenneth M. Swezey.

Iron and rust stains that are fresh can usually be wiped off or washed off with household detergent solution. More stubborn fresh stains may be removed with fine pumice powder or mild scouring powder and water. If the stain has gone deeper, sprinkle with sodium hydrosulfite powder (the dye-remover chemical sold with some packaged household dyes), dampen the powder, and leave for not more than half an hour. Follow right away with a solution of sodium citrate. Repeat the sequence, if necessary. Finally, wash with water and dry. This treatment works by changing colored insoluble salts into colorless soluble ones that can be washed away. It may, however, dull polished surfaces somewhat, possibly necessitating repolishing.

I recently learned that using household bleach on rust stains in a toilet bowl "sets" the stain and makes it virtually impossible to remove. I havent been able to confirm this.

The Washington Suburban Sanitary Commission has this to offer regarding stains. Green stains on porcelain fixtures are clear evidence of aggressive water and the utility company supplying the water should be consulted. Accumulation of significant amounts of sediment, especially in toilet tanks, is a possible indication of corrosion in either the home plumbing or the utilities primary water distribution system. The color and type of sediment is indicative of the origin of the material.

Amazon has a lengthy list of books on solving vexing household problems such as these two.

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Plumbing Noises

Plumbing can make many weird noises which can have many causes and; sometimes, they're not easy to isolate and fix. I've tried to collect common causes given on alt.home.repair.

A Single Bang, Knock, Clunk or Clang

Such sounds are usually caused by a phenomenon called 'water hammer.' Water hammer doesn't accompany flowing water, so if your sound occurs while water is running, it isn't water hammer.

Water hammer happens when you turn OFF a water flow suddenly (like a dishwasher, a clothes washer, a toilet or even closing a hand faucet suddenly. Shutting off the flow suddenly sends a pressure or shock wave down the water line through the water shocking the pipes and creating the 'hammer' noise. These shock waves travel faster than the speed of sound and can exert very great instantaneous pressures. Over time, water hammer can damage pipes, valves and eventually weaken pipe joints.

Most modern homes have devices called water hammer arresters ( they're called various things such as air chamber, air cushion, water capacitor, etc.) . They are air filled chambers connected to the plumbing that let the pressure wave dissipate harmlessly into a cushion of air. If your banging has been happening forever you may not have one.

Sometimes these arresters become waterlogged. Try this. Turn off the water to the house at the entry. Find the lowest faucet in your house--often this is an outdoor garden hose faucet--open this faucet and then open a few of the indoor faucets at high locations such as upstairs or at a wet bar and let the low faucet drain for 5 minutes or until it stops dripping, whichever takes longer. Close all the faucets and turn the main back on. Note: When you first start using water again there will be air in the lines and it may spit and sputter with some vigor.

If this fixes it you have a defective or waterlogged arrester.

Here's a more extensive article on water hammer arresters.

Fog Horn, Bleating, Wailing, Moaning, Humming, Screaming Fluttering, Rattling, Chattering, Motor Boat, Whistling, Oboe

Speedy Jim Mais said on alt.home.repair

Often a faulty toilet ballcock (fill valve) will cause resonance sounds like these. At least it's easy to check -- here's how to tell if this is the cause. Close the supply valves to all the toilets. If the noise disappears, open them one-by-one till the noise starts again. Replace the ballcock in that toilet.

If there are no shut-offs handy, sometimes you can locate the offending ballcock by lifting up on the float ball while someone starts an offending faucet.

Another common cause is a faucet washer. If it only happens when using a certain faucet the faucet washer may be loose or damaged. This can cause it to flutter in the water stream causing the various sounds listed in the heading. Try tightening the screw the washer in the faucet stem. If the problem stops and later returns, mash the threads of the screw a little with pliers so they bind in the stem when reassembled. If this doesn't work, then it's time for a new stem assembly.

Speaking of new valve stems, I've also had a third party replacement valve stem cause this problem. In my experience substitute faucet parts often don't work properly. Try to get replacement parts made by the manufacturer of your faucet. If you can't find the parts locally, they all have customer service 800 numbers, and sometimes they'll send you replacement parts free.

Speedy Jim also suggests, "Sometimes a worn out dishwasher/clothes washer solenoid fill valve can cause machinegun like, repeated hammering." So, if the hammering happens while a washer is filling consider this possibility.

High water pressure can cause a variety of odd problems including these noises. High pressure can also damage toilet valves and other devices connected to the plumbing. If you're on a city water system, ask your neighbors if they are having similar problems. If you have a well you probably have a water pressure meter. If you don't have one, borrow one or, buy one at the hardware store and check the pressure. If your pressure is above 60psi you may want to adjust your pressure reducer or install one. [I understand some water systems have higher pressures in the main lines and pressure reducers between the main and your house, at the meter. In this case, if the pressure regulator is defective you could have high pressure even if your neighbors don't. -- jim]

Sometimes pipe noises are caused by the pipes rubbing or bumping inside the walls because they aren't strapped down well or, because their stud pass-through holes are too small or off center. If this is the cause they've probably made the sounds since the house was built or, the wall was repaired.

This isn't very likely, but it may be a problem with the pressure regulator if:

l your pounding sound happens while the water's running, l it happens at more than one faucet, l turning on other faucets changes the cadence, l the pressure changes with the pounding,

l and, you have pressure regulator on your main water line

While the noise is happening, check to see if it seems to be coming from the regulator. If so, the regulator may need to be replaced.

Ticking

Water meters sometimes make a ticking sound that's transmitted by the pipe or water into the house. This ticking happens when, (and only when) water is running.

Sounds Like Running Water (Toilet) Off-And-OnIf what you hear sounds like water running for a few seconds then quitting, and this repeats every so often (several minutes to several hours) -- the flush valve ( rubber flapper or ball ) in your toilet may be leaking. Go here, and scroll down the page to ~~The Dye Test~~. If it turns out you need a new flapper Speedy Jim says the best toilet flapper is the red colored 'Bulls Eye' model by FluidMaster.

Here's an explanation of how a toilet flush works.

Other alt.home.repair contributors who authored posts I used in compiling this article:

Robert Hancock Augustine

Paul Konigmacher

Some other names were lost -- my apologies.

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