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Have a sneak peak at what's inside the December issue of Trail - Britain's best-selling hill walking amgazine.
Citation preview
LIVE FO
R THE O
UTD
OO
RS D
ECEM
BER
20
11
TLake District summits... by night! p32 The Brecon Beacons for thrill-seekers p54
Scotland’s secret wilderness p20
BRITAIN’S BEST-SELLING HILLWALKING MAG
CairngormsUltimate weekenderSore feet?Banish those aches
NEW LOOK!
HILL SKILLS
HILLWALKING MAG
GET YOUR MITTS ON
TOP-SPEC GLOVES: p30
DECEMBER 2011 £3.99 WWW.LIVEFORTHEOUTDOORS.COM
Bothying 6 secrets to a cosy
night in a hill shelter
Snowdon safety7 deadly dangers revealed
6000m altitude: could you cope?New £30 test to � nd out
MASTERCLASS
Fancy getting this famous peak to yourself? p32
WWW.LIVEFORTHEOUTDOORS.COM
Adventures
Instant classic?New tent that’s light, a bargain and fab: p68PLUS New Rab jacket
Routes + maps13 expert guides to mountain walks in the UK’s wild places p103
AdventuresGREAT BRITISHAdventures in the mountains!
� � � � �
AdventuresWIN
GEAR PRIZES WORTH
£ 800!
£100 hillwalking boots! 3-4 season boots!
BOOTSGEAR SPECIAL
BOOTSGEAR SPECIAL
TESTEDthe one that alm
ost got picked up from the sum
mit and blow
n away like a Gore-Tex-clad kite
front cover dec11 sw.indd 1 10/10/2011 12:08
Memory map 10A snapshot of a bygone mountain age...
Update 12Happenings from high places
Dream peak 16 All hail the rather regal Rhinog Fach
Happenings from high places
Dream peak 16All hail the rather regal Rhinog Fach
CONTENTS Where this month’s issue will take you...
Bothying 40 How to fi nd and use these remote shelters
Ask Trail 44 Using poles, sleeping bag ratings, bog hopping
Boot fi tting 50A footwear masterclass from our expert
Snowdon safety 52Seven of this winter peak’s danger spots
Trail Talk 16
Subscribe to Trail 30
Win! French Jura trip 101
The Trail tall tale 146
Scotland’s big secret 20If 1000 sq km of nothing appeals, head north with Trail to this people-free Scottish plateau
Lakes peaks by night 32 Hitting the hills in the wee small hours: a great way to see the mountains in a new, er, light
Thrills in the Beacons 54Think the Brecon Beacons are best suited to school trips? Think again!
A DV E N T U R ES
Y O U R T R A I L
S K I L L SO U T T H E R E
Watching the sunrise from the Coniston Fells after a night on the hoof: read about the whole adventure.
Subscribe and get a pair of winter mitts or gloves!
A GARMIN GPSWORTH £600!
p32
p30
8 TRAIL DECEMBER 2011 DECEMBER 2011 TRAIL 9
TOM
BA
ILEY
TOM
BA
ILEY
Pooped pair mistake signpost for bus stop – page 20.
contents dec11 sw.indd 8 10/10/2011 13:05
Gear news 64 The latest products, the greatest inventions, the stuff you need to know about
Rab Stretch Neo 66 New Polartec fabric promises top performance Wild Country Zephyros 1 68The budget tent which smashes expectations 3-4 season boots 70Year-round, crampon-compatible and costing between £140 and £230
£100 3-season boots 82 If you have a ton to spend on hillwalking footwear, which is worth a second look?
Hill-walking apps 94 Our buyer’s guide features a selection of the best phone apps for hill-goers
Used and abused 98All manner of outdoor kit gets its bum kicked in Scotland’s Monadhliath Mountains
Distance 19.3km (12 miles)Total ascent 900mTime 7-8 hoursStart/� nish Keswick, NY263235Terrain high-level fell-walk over one main peak, with clear paths throughout and
long steady ascents and descents Maps OS Explorer (1:25,000) OL4; OS Landranger (1:50,000) 89; Harvey Walker (1:40,000) and Superwalker (1:25,000)
Lakeland NorthPublic transport railway station at Penrith with regular bus services to Keswick, from where bus services
extend along the A591 – tel. 0870 608 2608; www.cumbria.gov.ukGuidebooks The Northern Fells by A Wainwright, pb Frances Lincoln
19.3km/12 miles
TRAIL ROUTE LAKE DISTRICT
7ULTIMATE WEEKEND
Always take a map on the hill
2
4
5
© C
ROW
N C
OPY
RIG
HT
IN A
SSO
CIAT
ION
WIT
H B
AUER
’S M
EDIA
LIC
ENCE
NO
. AM
105/
09
Trail Routes in association with Mapyx A digital revolution in digital mapping for the outdoors.
www.mapyx.com
Skiddaw
dd
Finish
4
Pen yr Ole Wen
to Millbeck, where a footpath on the right climbs steeply
alongside woods and up the southern slopes of Carl Side.
You can see the path winding steeply up the slopes and
it is clear from the start that this is a tough climb. But
throughout this section the view back over Keswick to
Derwentwater in Borrowdale and the surrounding peaks
provides plenty of reason to stop and drink in the view.
Manchester
MiddlesbroughKendal
Skipton
Sheffield
Peterborough
Birmingham
Derby
Betws-y-Coed
Pembroke
Brecon
Bristol
Plymouth
PooleBodmin
Minehead
Brighton
Southampton
Oxford
Berwick-upon-Tweed
Newcastle-upon-Tyne
Edinburgh
Glasgow
Aberdeen
Inverness
Fort William
Oban
MallaigInverie
Shiel Bridge
Ullapool
Braemar
Killarney
Tralee
Dingle
Kenmare CorkWaterford
Dublin
Belfast
LondonderryDonegal
Hay-on-Wye
Llangollen
IngletonBenthamLancaster
Stranraer
Ballantrae
Ayr
Dumfries
Portree
MULL
ISLE OF SKYE
ISLE OF LEWIS
Lairg
Thurso
Invergarry
Aviemore
Newton Stewart
Jedburgh
Leeds
York
Northallerton
Barmouth
RhylConway
Cardigan
Aberystwyth
SwanseaCardiff
Gloucester
Exeter
ISLE OF ARRAN
JURA
ISLAY
HARRIS
Bodelwyddan
Liverpool
Carlisle
Penrith
Windermere
Keswick
FACTS
GRADIENT PROFILE
2
METRESABOVE SEALEVEL
140012001000800600400200
MILESKILOMETRES
Start
Finish0
0
Skiddaw
Carl Side
Applethwaite
Skiddaw House1
2
3 45
6
2 2
4 46
68
810
1012
12
1416
18
Lakes’ 4th highestpeak
128 TRAIL SEPTEMBER 2011
SEPTEMBER 2011 TRAIL 129
1 NY263235 Leave Keswick by walking along the main road away
from the centre of town and cross the River Greta. At the
next road junction a footpath on the right can be traced
through Great Crosthwaite, past Keswick School and then
over the A66. The footpath continues through fi elds to
Applethwaite.
NY264255 Quiet lanes lead from Applethwaite
NY254281 The long climb ends gradually as the angle of the slopes
decreases and you take the fi nal few steps onto Carl Side.
Carlside Tarn nestles in the saddle ahead, while Skiddaw
dominates the scene. A clear
path climbs the western slopes of Skiddaw and this
brings fi ne views west across Southerndale to the long
arm of Longside Edge, one of Skiddaw’s most shapely
features and a great way to approach the mountain.
The path onto Skiddaw is another long haul; it’s loose underfoot thanks to the crumbly Skiddaw slate.
Finally you reach the summit ridge and a short walk north
leads to the summit.NY260290 At 931m/ 3,054ft Skiddaw is
the fourth highest peak in the Lake District. Return south for 500 metres and
then descend in an easterly direction down the slopes
to Sale How and onward downhill to Skiddaw House.
NY287291 Skiddaw House lies at 1,550ft above sea-level. A clear path
continues south around the lower contours of the
steep, crumbly slopes of Lonscale Fell and high above
Glenderaterra Beck, with spectacular views. The path
leads easily back to the car park at Latrigg.
NY281253 A path now descends around the slopes of Latrigg through
woods at fi rst before crossing the A66 and leading back
into Keswick.
3
6
Autumnal slopes of Skiddaw rise above the car park on Latrigg.
YoSkiddaw
Pic 1 Autumnal slopes of Skid-daw rise above the carpark on
Latrigg.
High SeatPic The vast moorland extend-
ing south from High Seat.Cat BellsPic The clear path to Cat Bells provides an easy start.
Tags:Ideas:
Skiddaw Lakes 4th highest peakBag a Lakeland 3000 footerHigh SeatMassive moorland among the
mountainsRough and wild moorland chal-
lengeBig views from mountain
moorlandClassic views from moorland traverseMore than just moorlandCat BellsQuintessential Lakeland Fells
The ultimate classic walkKeswick's classic walk
The greatest views of KeswickIncredible views from Lakeland
Classic
1
2
3
4
5
6
STRENUOUSNESSNAVIGATIONTECHNICALITYTRAIL 1OO
���������������1
7-9 lake district sep11 swhlps.indd 128
14/07/2011 15:46
METRESABOVE SEALEVEL
140012001000800600400200
MILESKILOMETRES Finish0
0
112
33 45
6
2 2
4 46
68
810
1012
14
128 TRAIL SEPTEMBER 2011
is another long haul; it’s loose underfoot thanks to the crumbly Skiddaw slate.
Finally you reach the summit ridge and a short walk north
leads to the summit.NY260290 At 931m/ 3,054ft Skiddaw is
the fourth highest peak in the Lake District. Return south for 500 metres and
then descend in an easterly direction down the slopes
to Sale How and onward downhill to Skiddaw House.
NY287291 Skiddaw House lies at 1,550ft above sea-level. A clear path
continues south around the lower contours of the
steep, crumbly slopes of Lonscale Fell and high above
Glenderaterra Beck, with spectacular views. The path
leads easily back to the car park at Latrigg.
NY281253 A path now descends around the slopes of Latrigg through
woods at fi rst before crossing the A66 and leading back
into Keswick.
Distance 19.3km (12 miles)Total ascent 900mTime 7-8 hoursStart/� nish Keswick, NY263235Terrain high-level fell-walk over one main peak, with clear paths throughout and
long steady ascents and descents Maps OS Explorer (1:25,000) OL4; OS Landranger (1:50,000) 89; Harvey Walker (1:40,000) and Superwalker (1:25,000)
Lakeland NorthPublic transport railway station at Penrith with regular bus services to Keswick, from where bus services
extend along the A591 – tel. 0870 608 2608; www.cumbria.gov.ukGuidebooks The Northern Fells by A Wainwright, pb Frances Lincoln
19.3km/12 miles
TRAIL ROUTE LAKE DISTRICT
7ULTIMATE WEEKEND
Always take a map on the hill
2
4
5
© C
ROW
N C
OPY
RIG
HT
IN A
SSO
CIAT
ION
WIT
H B
AUER
’S M
EDIA
LIC
ENCE
NO
. AM
105/
09
Trail Routes in association with Mapyx A digital revolution in digital mapping for the outdoors.
www.mapyx.com
Skiddaw
dd
Finish
4
Pen yr Ole Wen
to Millbeck, where a footpath on the right climbs steeply
alongside woods and up the southern slopes of Carl Side.
You can see the path winding steeply up the slopes and
it is clear from the start that this is a tough climb. But
throughout this section the view back over Keswick to
Derwentwater in Borrowdale and the surrounding peaks
provides plenty of reason to stop and drink in the view.
Manchester
MiddlesbroughKendal
Skipton
Sheffield
Peterborough
Birmingham
Derby
Betws-y-Coed
Pembroke
Brecon
Bristol
Plymouth
PooleBodmin
Minehead
Brighton
Southampton
Oxford
Berwick-upon-Tweed
Newcastle-upon-Tyne
Edinburgh
Glasgow
Aberdeen
Inverness
Fort William
Oban
MallaigInverie
Shiel Bridge
Ullapool
Braemar
Killarney
Tralee
Dingle
Kenmare CorkWaterford
Dublin
Belfast
LondonderryDonegal
Hay-on-Wye
Llangollen
IngletonBenthamLancaster
Stranraer
Ballantrae
Ayr
Dumfries
Portree
MULL
ISLE OF SKYE
ISLE OF LEWIS
Lairg
Thurso
Invergarry
Aviemore
Newton Stewart
Jedburgh
Leeds
York
Northallerton
Barmouth
RhylConway
Cardigan
Aberystwyth
SwanseaCardiff
Gloucester
Exeter
ISLE OF ARRAN
JURA
ISLAY
HARRIS
Bodelwyddan
Liverpool
Carlisle
Penrith
Windermere
Keswick
FACTS
GRADIENT PROFILE
2
METRESABOVE SEALEVEL
140012001000800600400200
MILESKILOMETRES
Start
Finish0
0
Skiddaw
Carl Side
Applethwaite
Skiddaw House1
2
3 45
6
2 2
4 46
68
810
1012
12
1416
18
Lakes’ 4th highestpeak
128 TRAIL SEPTEMBER 2011
SEPTEMBER 2011 TRAIL 129
1 NY263235 Leave Keswick by walking along the main road away
from the centre of town and cross the River Greta. At the
next road junction a footpath on the right can be traced
through Great Crosthwaite, past Keswick School and then
over the A66. The footpath continues through fi elds to
Applethwaite.
NY264255 Quiet lanes lead from Applethwaite
NY254281 The long climb ends gradually as the angle of the slopes
decreases and you take the fi nal few steps onto Carl Side.
Carlside Tarn nestles in the saddle ahead, while Skiddaw
dominates the scene. A clear
path climbs the western slopes of Skiddaw and this
brings fi ne views west across Southerndale to the long
arm of Longside Edge, one of Skiddaw’s most shapely
features and a great way to approach the mountain.
The path onto Skiddaw is another long haul; it’s loose underfoot thanks to the crumbly Skiddaw slate.
Finally you reach the summit ridge and a short walk north
leads to the summit.NY260290 At 931m/ 3,054ft Skiddaw is
the fourth highest peak in the Lake District. Return south for 500 metres and
then descend in an easterly direction down the slopes
to Sale How and onward downhill to Skiddaw House.
NY287291 Skiddaw House lies at 1,550ft above sea-level. A clear path
continues south around the lower contours of the
steep, crumbly slopes of Lonscale Fell and high above
Glenderaterra Beck, with spectacular views. The path
leads easily back to the car park at Latrigg.
NY281253 A path now descends around the slopes of Latrigg through
woods at fi rst before crossing the A66 and leading back
into Keswick.
3
6
Autumnal slopes of Skiddaw rise above the car park on Latrigg.
YoSkiddaw
Pic 1 Autumnal slopes of Skid-daw rise above the carpark on
Latrigg.
High SeatPic The vast moorland extend-
ing south from High Seat.Cat BellsPic The clear path to Cat Bells provides an easy start.
Tags:Ideas:
Skiddaw Lakes 4th highest peakBag a Lakeland 3000 footerHigh SeatMassive moorland among the
mountainsRough and wild moorland chal-
lengeBig views from mountain
moorlandClassic views from moorland traverseMore than just moorlandCat BellsQuintessential Lakeland Fells
The ultimate classic walkKeswick's classic walk
The greatest views of KeswickIncredible views from Lakeland
Classic
1
2
3
4
5
6
STRENUOUSNESSNAVIGATIONTECHNICALITYTRAIL 1OO
���������������1
7-9 lake district sep11 swhlps.indd 128
14/07/2011 15:46
VE SEALEVEL
1000800600400200
MILESKILOMETRES Finish0
0
Skiddaw
Carl SideSkiddaw House
112
33 452 2
4 46128 TRAIL SEPTEMBER 2011
as the angle of the slopes decreases and you take the
fi nal few steps onto Carl Side. Carlside Tarn nestles in the
saddle ahead, while Skiddaw dominates the scene. A clear
House lies at 1,550ft above sea-level. A clear path
continues south around the lower contours of the
steep, crumbly slopes of Lonscale Fell and high above
Glenderaterra Beck, with spectacular views. The path
leads easily back to the car park at Latrigg.
NY281253 A path now descends around the slopes of Latrigg through
woods at fi rst before crossing the A66 and leading back
into Keswick.
6
Distance 8.9km
(5½ miles)
Total ascent 960m
Time 5 hours
Start/� nish Glen Etive,
NN111454
Nearest town
Fort William
Terrain pathless rough
hill and wet, boggy paths
Maps OS Landranger
(1:50,000) 50
Accommodation
Kingshouse Hotel
(below), Glencoe Youth
Hostel (01855) 811219
Public transport none
Guidebooks The
Corbetts & other Hills by
Milne & Brown, pb SMC
Tourist info Fort William
0845 225 5121
Best pub Kingshouse
Hotel (01855) 851259
FACTS
8.9km/5½ miles
TRAIL ROUTE WEST HIGHLANDS
4
120 TRAIL OCTOBER 2011
Always take a map on the hill
1
© C
ROW
N C
OPY
RIG
HT
IN A
SSO
CIAT
ION
WIT
H B
AUER
’S M
EDIA
LIC
ENCE
NO
. AM
105/
09
Trail Routes
in association
with Mapyx
A digital revolution in digital
mapping for the outdoors.
www.mapyx.com
Manchester
Middlesbrough
Kendal
Skipton
Sheffield
Peterborough
Birmingham
DerbyBetws-y-Coed
Pembroke
Brecon
Bristol
Plymouth
Poole
Bodmin
Minehead BrightonSouthampton
Oxford
Berwick-upon-Tweed
Newcastle
-upon-Tyne
EdinburghGlasgow
Aberdeen
Inverness
Fort William
Oban
MallaigInverie
Shiel Bridge
Ullapool
Braemar
Killarney
TraleeDingle
KenmareCork
Waterford
Dublin
Belfast
Londonderry
Donegal
Hay-on-Wye
Llangollen
Ingleton
Bentham
Lancaster
Stranraer
Ballantrae
Ayr
Dumfries
Portree
MULL
ISLE OF SKYE
ISLE OF LEWISLairg
Thurso
Invergarry
Aviemore
Newton Stewart
Jedburgh
Leeds
York
Northallerton
Barmouth
RhylConway
Cardigan
Aberystwyth
SwanseaCardiff
Gloucester
Exeter
ISLE OF ARRAN
JURA
ISLAY
HARRIS
Bodelwyddan
Liverpool
Carlisle
Penrith
Windermere
Keswick
GRADIENT PROFILE
Meall nan Gobhar
METRESABOVE
SEALEVEL
140012001000800600400200
MILES
KILOMETRES
Start
Beinn Trilleachan
Meall nan Gobhar
Finish
00
1 23
1
12
23
3
4
4
5
5
67
8
Trilleachan
4
NN111454 Start from
the car park at the end
of the public road (a little
short of that represented on
the Landranger map). Go
along the start of the track
by the side of Loch Etive and
head immediately uphill
by the side of the forestry
plantation. This is currently
in the process of being felled,
and the timber shipped out
from a jetty a short distance
along the loch. The path up
beside the fence is often very
wet and boggy, and diffi cult
to follow in places. Continue
uphill until the terrain levels
off at about 200m above
sea-level.
NN104463 Now head
in a south-westerly
direction up a very rough
hillside with frequent
rocky outcrops and boggy
areas. There is no path so
you will need to pick your
way upwards though the
outcrops. As you gain
height the ridge becomes
better-defi ned and
the vegetation less
troublesome! Aim
towards the steep
south-easterly fl ank
of the mountain
and you will
pick up a faint
path leading
to the top (pt 767m). This
is a superb vantage point
with a dramatic
setting.
NN096447
The next section
is potentially tricky in
poor visibility. A series of
rocky ledges leads down to
a narrow col at the head of
a dramatic gully. There is no
path on this section and it
would be easy to miss
the col and end up
too far down
the slope. Once at
the col a path leads
uphill onto a much
broader grassy
section of ridge.
The path is diffi cult
to follow and in mist
it is possible to miss the
summit cairn, which is set in
the middle of a plateau.
NN086438 The only
feasible option for an
enjoyable return to the start
is to retrace the outward
route – although if it’s been
very dry you may want to
descend north-east from
The view from the col between the two principal tops (pt 767 and the main summit).
If the weather closes in
you can escape to the
north-east and lower
ground, but the going is
rough and pathless with
frequent rocky slabs and
small crags. You may
need the experience
of a competent route
fi nder to safely negotiate
a route back to lower
levels. This hill is a good
all-round introduction
as it offers some
challenging bogs, as
well as some superb
and readily accessible
panoramas. It contains
enough positives to
make up for the tough
slog early on in the day. It
is also not too long a day
and it is possible to bail
out at any stage given a
competent mate!
LEADER TIP
the narrow col, aiming for
Lochan na Saobhaidhe. In
all but the driest conditions
this would prove to be
a rather masochistic
extension. It is also a viable
bail-out route should severe
conditions force you off the
main ridge line.
2
3
4
1
2
3
4
4 west highlands oct11 swlpcmja.indd 120
12/08/2011 10:19
Where this month’s issue will take you...
Southern Uplands 105Route 1 Striding ArchesA ‘walk of art’ around Dumfriesshire’s Cairnhead
Lake District 107Route 2 GrasmoorExplore the peaks above Crummock Water
Snowdonia 109Route 3 Moel SiabodA short, sharp assault on a north Wales favourite
Dartmoor 111Route 4 Merrivale Stone RowsA route with Bonze Age stone circles and more
Lake District 113Route 5 Great RiggGet up above Grasmere for captivating views
Peak District 115Route 6 Win HillTackle Derbyshire’s most famously perky peak
Aviemore 119Route 7 Meall a’ BhuachailleRoute 8 Cairn Gorm via the Fiacaill RidgeRoute 9 Braeriach via the Chalamain GapStay in one place and walk for three days! This month’s fi rst Ultimate Weekend gives three routes from this popular Cairngorm base
Dolgellau 125Route 10 Cadair Idris ridge-walkRoute 11 Rhinog Fach & Y LlethrRoute 12 Gwernan Lake Check out what north Wales has to offer! Here‘s a southern Snowdonia town with plenty to offer the hill-walker, plus a trio of top routes
Lake District 131Route 13 Mardale Round This issue’s Classic Route involves a circular walk from Haweswater reservoir, taking in High Street and Harter Fell to name two highlights
ROUTES
DECEMBER 2011
Need boots, but short on cash? Check out our £100 3-season boot test...
We put 3-4 season boots through their paces.
Always take
path climbs the western slopes of Skiddaw and this
brings fi ne views west across Southerndale to the long
arm of Longside Edge, one of Skiddaw’s most shapely
features and a great way to approach the mountain.
The path onto Skiddaw is another long haul; it’s loose underfoot thanks to
then descend in an easterly direction down the slopes
to Sale How and onward downhill to Skiddaw House.
Skiddaw House lies at 1,550ft
5
then descend in an easterly direction down the slopes
to Sale How and onward downhill to Skiddaw House.
NY287291 Skiddaw House lies at 1,550ft above sea-level. A clear path
GRADIENT PROFILE
Start
Beinn Trilleachan
Meall nan Gobhar
Finish
Trilleachan
a narrow col at the head of
p82
p70
GEAR
DECEMBER 2011 TRAIL 9
Classic Route
with 3D maps
TOM
BA
ILEY
costing between £140 and £230
£100 3-season boots If you have a ton to spend on hillwalking footwear, which is worth a second look?
Hill-walking apps Our buyer’s guide features a selection of the best phone apps for hill-goers
Used and abused All manner of outdoor kit gets its bum kicked in Scotland’s Monadhliath Mountains
We put 3-4 season boots through their paces.
p70
contents dec11 sw.indd 9 10/10/2011 16:42
CENTRAL SCOTLAND
20 TRAIL DECEMBER 2011 DECEMBER 2011 TRAIL 21
Between the River Spey and Loch Ness lies a big nothing: around 1,000 square km of it. But with four Munros and an average elevation of 2,000ft, the Monadhliath Mountains may be a nothing worth getting to know…
T H E G R E A T B E Y O N D
Where? Monadhliath MountainsWhat? Exploring Scotland,s wildest wilderness
new monadliliath.indd 20 10/10/2011 08:23
DECEMBER 2011 TRAIL 21
Into the blank: the Monadhliath plateau looms,
north of A' Chailleach.
T H E G R E A T B E Y O N D WORDS SIMON INGRAM PHOTOGRAPHS TOM BAILEY
new monadliliath.indd 21 10/10/2011 08:24
central scotland
december 2011 Trail 29
It was agreed. One more Munro, one more chance to get our feet under some of the blankness of that map, and then home – come reward or ruin.
It’s as if the landscape heard us. Over the next 20 minutes, something wonderful happened. Blue sky broke through. Spotlights of sun filled our surroundings with gold and green, deep shadows bringing a landscape into high definition around us. We saw yesterday’s Munro, not as a grey smudge of dangerous wind, but an elegant ridgeline, tall and steep, with crags and height and status and everything a mountain should have. Behind us, A’ Chailleach began to uncurl with distance, no longer the slope we were slogging up or huddled on top of, but in context a fine objective and a proud tick – not vulgar and spiky, just stately and commanding.
The hill we were aiming for wasn’t much to speak of in these terms: it was, to be frank, a bump – but it did deliver something.
As we crested the ridgeline we were greeted with the rusted boundary markers signifying the extreme northern edge of the Cairngorms National Park. They seemed forlorn, embarrassed almost – in point of fact, the Cairngorms and their infrastructure ended way back to the south-east. But there was something special up here. It’s from here the Monadhliath drops
28 Trail december 2011
Considering the Monadhliath, just beyond the border of the Cairngorms National Park. Below: riding out a squall on A' Chailleach's summit.
new monadliliath.indd 28 10/10/2011 09:01
december 2011 Trail 29
its cloak, and we were finally treated to the view I’d been desperate to see ever since I came across that map. There it was: the Monadhliath Plateau, featureless, bog-veined, the colour of moss and the size of Singapore.
I was pleased that both my companions seemed to appreciate it too; though pretty soon they had left me to my grin and turned their attention to the rest of the hills around us, some of which we’d climbed, some of which were just now popping out of the cloud to say hello.
We hadn’t really got to explore the Monadhliath. We’d climbed three of its four Munros, which was brilliant – but the weather had banned us from any deeper forays onto the plateau, so we had to make do with just the view.
I was in two minds about this: part of me was gutted that, having come so close to striking out into it, we now had to turn back; but part of me was cheered by the fact that I still had that great big, blank map sheet to cling on to if I ever start running out of places to have an adventure. And at least now I could take this image away with me.
Of course, this view might have the opposite effect on some people. Steep, craggy and deadly it is not. There isn’t a single pub in there. A large amount of it is probably boggy and the amount of swear words that will
cross your lips would probably turn the whole area blue. You’ll be miles from anywhere, for ages. The high, exposed summits studding it will be marvellous places to catch a breeze stiff enough to blow you through the sound barrier. By winter, it will be a high, arctic plateau crunchy to the foot and boundless to the eye. In summer, if it’s been raining, you’ll emerge looking like you’ve just sprinted drunk through a midden.
Sound horrible? Yes? Best go and watch telly, then. Let’s Unnecessarily Survive! is on in a bit. They’re turning mole ribs into toothpicks tonight.
But for those of you who are smiling in a deranged and earnest fashion? OS map sheet 35. It’s right there, slid quietly and unadorned between more illustrious map sheets. If you’re still not sure it’s for you, just remember this: if you think you’ll love it here, you will.
And with that, I enjoyed my long-awaited view of magnificent nothingness for a few more seconds, vowed to one day return with a stronger tent, then stepped back across the National Park boundary and headed for home. T
new monadliliath.indd 29 10/10/2011 09:01
LAKE DISTRICT
WALK
DUSK'TILDAWN
What kind of person gets up at one in the morning just to watch the sun rise? A hill-walker on a mission, that’s who. WORDS HANNA LINDON PHOTOGRAPHS TOM BAILEY
32 TRAIL DECEMBER 2011 DECEMBER 2011 TRAIL 33
Where? The Coniston Fells, Lake DistrictWhat? Night walking to see sunrise
night walking V4 dec11 lppsswsi.indd 32 10/10/2011 09:46
It’s 5.23am. Dead time. The crossover between the night shift and the day shift, when the clubs have closed and the greasy spoons are not yet open. On Coniston Old Man, 800m
above the Lake District dales, the grass is slowly turning the colour of hot coals. A ribbon of red runs across the horizon, delineating the giants of the Cumbrian mountain scene. There’s Helvellyn, frozen in a one-shoulder shrug behind the mottled crater of Wetherlam. Over to the west the notched V of the Scafells is half hidden by the ghost of a cloud inversion. The seconds tick past. The hills hold their breath. And then, to the strains of a silent fanfare, an orange sun boils over the horizon, spilling light down into the steaming valley. “Tea’s up!” says Jeremy.
WALK
DUSKDAWN
Proof that the early bird catches the sunrise: on Coniston Old Man.
27/07/2011 05:34
DECEMBER 2011 TRAIL 33
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night walking V4 dec11 lppsswsi.indd 33 10/10/2011 09:46
36 TRAIL DECEMBER 2011 DECEMBER 2011 TRAIL 37
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The routeWe climbed Coniston Old Man via South Rake, Buck Pike and Dow Crag, making a 12km/7½ mile circuit past Goat's Water tarn.
WANT TO TRY IT YOURSELF?
Do a walk you knowPick an easy, familiar walk as things look di� erent in the dark. With timings (using Naismith’s rule –see p47), add 10 per cent – you'll walk slower at night.
Check the weatherThere's no point doing a night walk in bad weather – it's hard, miserable and you won't get a great sunrise, so check the forecast � rst: www.mwis.org.uk
Gain night visionUnless you need to map-read,try not to rely on your headtorch. Let your eyes get accustomed to the dark.
Don't cause a panicA torch bobbing about or camera � ashes might look like a signal for help.Notify the local Mountain Rescue Team before you go.
Pack rightTake a � ask of co� ee and warm clothing (duvet jacket, hat, gloves) plus a headtorch and a spare!
NIGHT WALKSAFELY
Best for beginners: Try the small Pendle Hill in Lancashire (SD804414) – a great starter night walk that's said to be haunted by those hung here in the 1612 witch trials
Best for sunrise: try Ingleborough (SD741745) or Helvellyn (NY341151). Both have obvious paths and you'll get great sunrise views from the plateau.
Best for star-gazing: climb Merrick (843m/2,800ft) from Bruce’s Stones (NX414803) in Galloway Forest Park – as Europe’s � rst designated Dark Sky Park, it enjoys extremely low levels of light pollution.
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Mission accomplished: summit and sunrise in the bag.
night walking V4 dec11 lppsswsi.indd 36 10/10/2011 10:04
27/07/2011 05:23
december 2011 Trail 37
Three-Peakers on Great Moss, but otherwise it was just us and this wraparound panorama of pink-tinged perfection. Why were we alone? Why weren’t the dark fells swarming with mountain connoisseurs? Okay, so one in the morning isn’t the most sociable time to be up and about, but when the reward is this…
3.40am. Our route dipped in a Cheshire cat smile, down from Dow Crag and then up again towards Coniston Old Man. It was light enough now to walk without headtorches: most of the stars had been swallowed by a blanket of navy blue sky and the Eastern Fells glowed like sulphur. I was just thinking that it couldn’t be too long now until sunrise when the temperature suddenly skydived. We went from sweating in base layers to shivering under layers of insulation within the space of a few minutes. “It may not be darker before dawn,” I muttered as we reached the summit of the Old Man. “But it certainly is colder, for sure.”
“There’s a remedy for that,” said Jeremy, whipping out the Jetboil. Cradling cups of spicy lemon tea, we leant against the summit cairn and watched the sun rise. After half an hour of dawdling just below the horizon it came fast: a line of fire that swelled to a fat pink grapefruit and then shrank again to a concentrated star of light too bright to look at. Everything turned pink all at once – it was like looking at the Lake District through beer goggles. She’s a beautiful beast at any time of day, but add the rose-tinted spectacles of sunrise and she’ll steal your heart before you can finish your cuppa.
5.23am. Dead time. There would be a price to pay for being in the hills here and now; we all knew that. In a few minutes we would stumble off the summit feeling like the living dead, but by God was it worth it. For some things, no price is too high. And I’d sell my soul twice over for a hot cup of lemon tea and half an hour of stolen sunshine. T
night walking V4 dec11 lppsswsi.indd 37 10/10/2011 10:05
top outdoor advice from our hillwalking experts
trail skills
Defining a bothy
Not easy! ‘Shelter’ is really the only term that applies to all bothies. The organisation which maintains most of the UK’s bothies is the Mountain Bothies Association (MBA), and on their website their description of the shelters they maintain errs on the side of caution. “Holiday homes they are not. Camping without a tent is closer to the mark.” What this means in practice is that bothies can be anything from fairly well-appointed and very solid stone cottages – with sleeping platforms, fireplaces, candles and even sofas – to rudimentary tin huts with few or no amenities. Due to their committing locations, it’s worth presuming the latter unless you know better.
1
40 Trail DECEMbEr 2011 DECEMbEr 2011 Trail 41
How to find and spend the night in these remote mountain shelters.
Bothying
it’s difficult to imagine a more noble resource for walkers: abandoned cottages secreted in the UK’s wild places, left unlocked and gently
maintained for use as overnight shelters. As the winter months creep in, the days become shorter and camping starts to lose the more universal aspects of its appeal, the idea of using a bothy as an overnight shelter to aid you in your quest for a summit becomes more and more appealing (see page 20 for Trail’s recent bothy-assisted adventure).
But bothying, for all its practical simplicity, can be a bit of a black art when it comes to planning...
Sleep in shelter in
a place like this...for free!
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skills bothies dec11 swpssi.indd 40 07/10/2011 12:19
finding shelter
On the MBA website (www.mountainbothies.org.uk) you’ll
find the locations of bothies they maintain, and usually a description. The MBA maintains 10 bothies in northern England, seven in Wales and 78 in Scotland. It’s best to check here first as it’s the place where closures, repairs or changes in bothy status – as can happen – are reported.
In Scotland there are also some bothies on private estates that are maintained by the estate owners or rangers, or left unmaintained. Some are locked and private, but some are left open. Finding information on these is more difficult, but your first port of call should be the estate itself to find out what condition the building
is in and whether it is possible to use it. A bit of detective work can help: spotting a building symbol (a box) on an OS map – usually near a water source and a path or track, and often with a name – followed by a bit of time on the Internet and Google Earth, might take you closer to establishing the nature of the building.
Beware: if you take a punt on a bothy you’re unsure about, be fully prepared to wild camp.
Packing for a bothy
With the above in mind – and given the fact that the bothy you’re aiming for could already be full of similarly minded people – you need to pack a tent or bivvy for a bothy trip, just in case.
This aside, in addition to your normal walking kit, you’ll need: › sleeping mat› sleeping bag› dry clothes for the evening› stove for cooking› toilet paper› matches or a lighter› headtorch› hat and extra insulation layer
Optional extras to augment your bothy experience could include the following:› tealights› firelog if the bothy has a fireplace (available at most DIY stores)› washing line for drying kit› book, game or entertainment› hipflask with some warming ‘refreshment’ › a smile: you may be sharing, so be prepared to socialise!
2 Finding a bothy
3
december 2011 Trail 41
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Camasunary bothy nestles below the Bla Bheinn
massif on Skye.
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52 TRAIL DECEMBER 2011
MASTERCLASSTOP OUTDOOR ADVICE FROM OUR HILLWALKING EXPERTS
TRAIL SKILLS
Snowdon danger spots
DECEMBER 2011 TRAIL 53
Come winter, Wales’ highest mountain turns into a hazardous wasteland – and some of the most dangerous spots lie in the most unexpected places. Here we highlight the principal areas where extra concentration is required…
Crib Goch 1SH627552 The fi rst major rock step on Crib Goch. A surprising number of folk who arrive at this point think they are heading for Snowdon – which they are eventually, if they are fortunate and prepared; but if they are unprepared for the exposure of Crib Goch, they could be climbing themselves into a trap they may fi nd it very diffi cult to retreat from.
Crib Goch 2SH617551 This is where Crib Goch rears up again with an imposing rock tower that defl ects folk to the left (south). Several small footpaths also develop in this area, which cross some steep and unpleasant ground.
Crib Goch 4 SH615552 In poor weather some people pick up the top of the Clogwyn y Person arête. They mistakenly think this is the main ridge and continue descending until they either realise what they are doing, or it becomes too late.
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Beautiful but potentially deadly: Wales’ highest under snow.
skills snowdon dec11 swpssi.indd 52 10/10/2011 10:51
With thanks to the Llanberis Mountain Rescue Team; www.llanberismountainrescue.co.uk
masterclass
december 2011 Trail 53
Watkin PathSH609542 At the top of the Watkin Path there are several paths. Due to the nature of the terrain they are often confusing as they appear and disappear. This area is very loose, and the ground is sloppy, slaty and quite steep – so a mistake can be costly.
South-east ridgeSH610543 near the summit, to SH614541 near Bwlch Saethau. People often try to descend this as they can’t find the start of the Watkin Path. It is possible either in descent or ascent – but the ground is loose and dangerous with a big drop to the north.
Llanberis PathSH609557 This is the railway cutting off the Llanberis descent, which can fill with snow and then freeze. This route is often seen as an easy-to-follow descent in poor conditions in winter – but where it passes above a convex slope, it is very dangerous. There have been fatalities here. A safer option if you find yourself here may be to detour and descend via the Snowdon Ranger path (seen heading west off the bottom left of this square), rather than trying to re-find the Llanberis Path.
Crib Goch 3SH614552 Here is another area that tends to deflect folk away from the ridge and to the south – very loose, rocky and unpleasant.
skills snowdon dec11 swpssi.indd 53 10/10/2011 10:51
GEAR
CRAMPONS: THE FUTURE?
Christmas gift alert! Landing with a heavy ‘thunk’ in the offi ce, this block of useful history immediately asserts itself as Something You Really Want. All seven Wainwright
guides and the additional ‘Outlying Fells’ volume, originally and lovingly penned by Lake District afi cionado Alfred Wainwright in the Sixties and Seventies, have been fully revised
by former OS cartographer Chris Jesty and now strike a pleasing balance between the covetable and the contemporary. Aside from a more useful red dotted line distinguishing
paths, their iconic line drawings appear otherwise unchanged, and – while useful elements like grid references and units in
metres instead of feet would make the books even more seamless with modern
mapping – this is a wonderful package. Plus if the new photographic dust jackets
don’t appeal, you can remove them for instant vintage class.
www.franceslincoln.co.uk
WAINWRIGHT Box Set £110
64 TRAIL DECEMBER 2011
Product of the month
NEWSGe
ar
New to the UK this winter is the Hillsound Trail Crampon (£50). Trail’s had a pair for a year now, on the feet of our lightweight expert Peter Macfarlane. “A new wave of winter traction has emerged lately: lightweight aluminium crampons, traditional styles with fewer and shorter spikes and more fl exible pull-on styles,“ he says. “The Hillsounds bridge the gap between the fully fl exible pull-on styles and solid crampons. An elastomer ring grips your footwear while underfoot, attached by chains, are plates that resemble a mini regular crampon. The front plate is hinged to allow movement in almost any footwear but the multiple spikes bite into the ice without fl ex.“ So what’s the verdict? “In use, the crampons were grippy, especially in harder snow and ice. The short spikes also meant they can be worn to cross grass and rock without feeling like you’re wearing heels or worrying about your £100+ crampons getting worn out.“ So how much punishment can they take? Watch out for a full test in Trail this winter...
www.hillsound.com
PETER MA
CFA
RLAN
E
gear news dec11 swps.indd 64 10/10/2011 15:12
All you have to do to be in with a chance of winning one of these fab prizes is go to www.greatcompetitions.co.uk/trail
BIZARRE BUT BRILLIANT?
The hill-going person – absolute gentleman or otherwise – can, given time and exposure to the elements, develop a face like an old boot. It would make sense to take precautions, which is where Mrs White’s lotion comes in. Boasting a charming name, simple label and hefty price tag, and described as a weatherblock to guard against what the y splendidly term ‘facial corrosion’, it’s full of natural ‘Edwardian cures’ like beeswax, rose, sandalwood, lavender, butter and zinc, which treat the skin and give
it SPF 28 protection, while organic cider vinegar helps maintain the skin’s pH. So does it work? Early impressions are a tentative ‘yes’ – though the unique smell (sort of half honey, half burning nylon) takes some getting used to. ›› www.roullierwhite.com
After a chequered past, with the Nomad 7 you get the sense solar chargers are coming of age. Both power pack and direct solar charger, it offers a charging interface for USB, 12V and a supplied pack of AA rechargeable batteries. It takes 6 hours to fully charge it ready to use with USB, or just 2 hours using the sun – impressive fi gures. It’s not mega-light (360g) but it’s worthwhile if you’re heading into the hills with your iPod/phone/Kindle/headtorch and need some extra juice. ›› www.goalzero.com
Mrs White’s Absolute Gentleman Protective Barrier Cream £20
GoalZero Nomad 7 £130
NEWS
GADGET OF THE MONTH
Two pairs of Brasher Kenai/Kiso GTX boots worth £100 each Tested on page 88
One pair of Scarpa SL Activ boots worth £220 Tested on page 76
Memory-Map Adventurer 3500 GPS worth £380Tested in the October issue
GEAR PRIZES WORTH £800!
Win
Boot cleaningThis month’s gear tests (starting on page70) include all you need for buying your perfect pair of boots; but after spending so much time and money on getting the right pair for you, it’s a waste to not spend a little bit of time and effort keeping them in good condition. Here are a few tips to help them stay in shape for longer...
›› www.grangers.co.uk
LacesRemove the laces to help get into the nooks and crannies.
BrushGet the stubborn dirt off fi rst. You mustn’t leave boots encrusted with dirt for long periods. We recommend walking through long wet grass at the end of a walk to brush the worst off before it dries. Otherwise, brush the worst off.
RinseRinse the boots in clean water. Avoid dunking them in a bucket: this won’t do leather any good.
SoapUse a boot cleaner, such as Granger’s G-Max Footwear Cleaner, on the wet boot. As you rub it in, it will foam up and lift dirt away from the surface.
RinseClean off the suds with running water.
DryNatural drying is best. Never dry boots on a radiator or near a fi re as this can damage the leather.
ConditionFull-grain leather boots need some conditioning. Applying Granger’s G-Max Leather Conditioner will keep the leather supple and waterproof.
Clean insideEvery so often it’s a good idea to clean out the inside of your boots. Salty sweat deposits can block the inside of membranes and impede breathability.
ADVERTISING FEATURE
gear news dec11 swps.indd 65 10/10/2011 16:47
BOOTS These boots can be used with crampons on easier snowy ground, and are ideal for rock and scree. Yet they are comfortable on paths too – making them the perfect year-round choice.TEST & STUDIO PHOTOGRAPHS GRAHAM THOMPSONOUTDOOR PHOTOGRAPHS TOM BAILEY
3-4 season
70 TRAIL DECEMBER 2011 DECEMBER 2011 TRAIL 71
GROUP TESTWHAT WE TESTED
BERGHAUS TARAZED GTX £140ZAMBERLAN BALTORO £170TREZETA TOP EVO £175ALT-BERG MALLERSTANG £180MAMMUT APPALACHIAN GTX £185SCARPA SL ACTIV £220LA SPORTIVA TRANGO S EVO GTX £225MEINDL HIMALAYA MFS £230
3-4 boots dec11 swsi.indd 70 07/10/2011 12:43
DECEMBER 2011 TRAIL 71
3-4 SEASON BOOTS
If you want one pair of boots to carry you from warm rock to
snowy slopes, check out this test...
3-4 boots dec11 swsi.indd 71 07/10/2011 12:42
3-SEASON BOOTSWith the cost of outdoor gear set to increase further in 2012, we consider just how far £100 of your hard-earned cash can go on boots suitable for the mountains.WORDS PHOEBE SMITH PHOTOGRAPHS TOM BAILEY
£100
REGATTA ALPHA PRO VXT £95 CONTOUR NEW NAVIGATOR £100JACK WOLFSKIN CROSSHIKE MID TEXAPORE £100 BERGHAUS EXPLORER LIGHT GTX £100BRASHER KENAI GTX £100HI-TEC ALTITUDE ULTRA LUXE WPI £100LOMER GARDENA MTX £100TREZETA JULIETTE £100
WHAT WE TESTED
82 TRAIL DECEMBER 2011 DECEMBER 2011 TRAIL 83
GROUP TEST
3-season boots dec11 swpssi.indd 82 07/10/2011 15:08
december 2011 Trail 83
£100 3-season boots
A pair of 3-season boots will be great for all your mountain
adventures below the snowline.
3-season boots dec11 swpssi.indd 83 07/10/2011 15:08
RoutesTrail Routes use OS mapping and gradient profiles, and are written by walking experts. This month we feature six trips designed to make the most of the available winter daylight – and don't forget to look out for the handy ‘cut out the faff’ tips to help make these walks short and sweet! Download these routes and GPS waypoints at lfto.com/routes
1 StridingArcheS 15km p105 2 grASmoor 12.5km p107 3 moelSiAbod 8.8km p109 4 merrivAleStonerowS 13km p111 5 greAtrigg 14.5km p113 6 winhill 14km p115
ultimate weekend – aviemore 7 meAllA'bhuAchAille 16km p120 8 cAirngorm 9.6km p121 9 brAeriAch 20.5km p122
ultimate weekend – dolgellau 10 cAdAiridriS 24km p126 11 rhinogFAch&Yllethr 11.8km p127 12 gwernAnlAke 5.8km p128
classic route 13 mArdAleround 11.6km p131
P119
P127 P131
P109
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