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OPPOSITE Spoonbar is a favorite spot for tasting local food. Architecture by David Baker Architects. LEFT Roasted Knoll carrots and vegetables at Spoonbar on a plate designed by Jered Nelson of Jered’s Pottery. BELOW The deLorimier Winery is in the Alexander Valley and is owned by a local family. BOTTOM LEFT SHED’s mission is to nurture the connection between good farming, cooking and eating. BOTTOM RIGHT The Jordan Winery during the spring is one of the best times for a hike.

Travel

DELICIOUS HEALDSBURGHealdsburg has it all: chic restaurants, cutting-edge art galleries and wineries galore

BY KATHY BRYANT | PHOTOGRAPHY BY PATRIK ARGAST

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Travel

SOME WOULD SAY that Healdsburg in Sonoma County is the way Napa used to be. And I’m one of them. Family-owned wineries, five-star restaurants featuring local produce and friendly people quick with smiles, are the norm here. There is a charming town square with a gazebo that is a perfect place to meet up with friends and walk to one of the many art galleries, restaurants and shops nearby. And then there’s the wine. Healdsburg is surrounded by fine wine appellations including the Alexander Valley, Chalk Hill, Dry Creek Valley and Russian River Valley. Chalk Hill’s name comes from the volcanic soil of chalky white ash which works well with plantings of white wine varietals like chardonnay and sauvignon blanc. We visited many wineries on our trip, which is highly recom-mended. You can pick up a Wine Road brochure and easily find wineries of your choice. The Alexander Valley alone has 13,000 acres of vineyards, 30 grape varieties, 28 wineries and over 200 independent farmers. First winery stop was at the Jordan Estate established in 1972, home to Jordan Vineyard & Winery. We began a guided three-mile trek of the estate at Vista Point, the winery’s highest point and the best view of the Alexander Valley. Along the way

we saw sustainably farmed vineyards, olive orchards as well as secluded lakes, a cattle ranch and chef’s garden. The tour ended at the estate where we tasted a chardonnay and cabaret sauvi-gnon with specially crafted appetizers of mashed purple pota-toes and ceviche and white mashed potatoes and lamb slices both served in small glass dishes. Tours are given throughout the year. Check their website for times. In the Chalk Hill region, we visited Lancaster Estate, located on 53 hillside acres. This winery is at the confluence of the Chalk Hill and Knights Valley appellations. The ground is rich with volcanic soils as well as sand and gravel deposited by the Russian River. Several of their 2013 wines have won awards and they are currently releasing some 2015s. Nearby is the family-owned Roth Estate winery. Beginning in 2001, Roth produced classic Bordeaux varietals in the Alexan-der Valley, as well as cool-climate wines from the Sonoma Coast. We then spent the afternoon at one of the Wilson Arti-san Wineries, deLorimier Winery, a boutique winery located in a valley with lush scenery. Working with owner Diane Wilson and wine maker Antoine Favero who uses traditional French techniques to elevate the flavors of the grapes. This winery is a family affair with all family members working together to

create Bordeaux-type wines. After a day meandering through vineyards and tasting great wines, we were ready to head back to Healdsburg. Visitors are spoiled for choice here. They run the gamut from Spoonbar with its market-driven menu of contemporary American fare served on custom plates by a local potter to SHED which is a modern day grange hall, food market, cafe and store. They have foraging expedi-tions, host workshops, suppers and cultural events. In 2014 SHED won the James Beard Award for restaurant design. Try taking a guided walking tour with Wine Country Walking Tours if you’re not anxious to explore on your own. You’ll learn the history of Healdsburg as well as architectural sites and stop at local restaurants to do food and wine pairings. If you want to learn some new recipes, you can sign up at Relish Culinary Center and work with some seasonal fare. There were several restaurants we visited that surprised me. One, Parish Cafe, serves traditional New Orleans cuisine using local ingredients. Their gumbo, beignets and fried pickles were especially tasty. Costeaux’s Bakery is noted for artisan breads and French onion soup. All their food has a French touch. Bear Republic Brewing Company is adjacent to a brewery and is a favorite spot for hamburgers, some infused with hops. In the fine dining category, Spoonbar has local delicacies, as well as designer cocktails. I still think about their New East Side made with Hendricks gin, yuzu, mint lime and cucumber elderflower foam. Valette was a fine dining experi-ence. Their menu not only lists their offerings but also names the farm the food comes from. You can’t get more local than that. We liked the corian-der crusted liberty duck breast from Liberty Farms and the Sonoma County ratatouille from Hidden Pound Farm. These are just a few of the restaurants to peruse in Healdsburg. All the more reason to go back and try others. Or maybe take a river rafting trip, or a bike ride through the vineyards. Visitors can stay in contemporary hotels, wineries, B&Bs and Victorian mansions. There are lots of choices and many price ranges. I can hardly wait to return. CH

www.healdsburg.com, www.wineroad.com, www.healdsburgshed.com, www.costeaux.com, www.theparishcafe.com, www.relishcuinary.com, www.spoonbar.com, www.valettehealdsburg.com, www.jordanwinery.com, www.lancaster-estate.com, www.rothwinery.com, www.delorimierwinery.com, www.winecountrywalkingtours.com

OPPOSITE The Jordan Vineyard and Winery Chateau overlooks 1,200 acres of hills and vine-yards. ABOVE The bar at the Spoonbar is a perfect place to sample designer cocktails. LEFT The kitchen and crew prepare the meals at Valette in full view of the diners. BELOW The Liberty Farms duck trio is one of Valette’s specialties.