Travel Magazine - NY article

8/9/2019 Travel Magazine - NY article

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Photo: Tony Shi

New York Downtown Rediscover the place thatis shaping the new NYCBy Peter Jon Lindberg


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N

o one can agree precisely when i

sared, le alone where i sars. Souho Houson Sree? 14h? 23rd? Does i in-

clude he arher-flung galleries o Chel-

sea? The Financial Disric? Do he leafier

blocks o he Wes Village sill coun, or are

check-cashing joins and graffii a prerequi-

sie? Some say Downown New York is less

a place han an idea, more abou sensibiliy

han geography. (For he purposes o our

discussion, les call i he swah beween

14h and Chambers Srees, rom he Hud-

son o he Eas River.).

The one hing New Yorkers can agree

on is ha Downown jus eels differen. You

sense i he minue you cross ha dispued

border. Few ciyscapes have such recog-nizable iconographyhe cas-iron aades

o SoHo, he Belgian blockpaved lanes o

TriBeCa, he waer owers puncuaing roo-

lines like squa wooden rocke ships, he

hoardings plasered wih dance-mix ads, he

congee joins and Puero Rican bodegas, he

bodega ha las Tuesday became a bisro.

Funky. Grity. Hip. Eccenric. Indie.

Irreveren. Cool. The prefix Downown hascome o connoe all sors o hings, no all o

hem endemic o Lower Manhatan. Down-

owns atiude and aesheic have been

codified, commodified, and sold in a million

pieces, such ha any clued-in kid visiing

rom he mainland can dress he par and

pass as a local. And while is sill he de

aco hub, Downown no longer corners he

counerculural marke in New York. Ariss,

designers, and musiciansand he galler-

ies, shops, and clubs ha suppor hemare

increasingly drawn o he cheaper reaches

o way-Upown and he ouer boroughs. Is

a sign o he imes ha mos o New Yorks

op rock acs (MGMT; TV on he Radio; heNaional; he Yeah Yeah Yeahs; Sanigold;

he Hold Seady) are based in Brooklyn.

You migh conclude ha he bohemian

culure Downown nurured as is own has

up and moved elsewhere. No quesion, his

isn he Lower Manhatan o your uncles

hard-core band. Money, boh corporae and

Our team looks at the big ideas, cutting-edge architec-

ture and design that are shaping the new New York.

Photo:TonyShi


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privae, plays more o a role here han ever:he median price o a wo-bedroom condo

is $1.37 million, compared wih $315,000 in

1993. No even 9/11 could knock Downown

off is genriying rajecory. Today, he area

has ar ewer ar galleries, ar ewer poery

clubs, and six American Apparel sores. I is

markedly easier o buy eye shadow han a

New York Dolls record.

Ye underneah he spi-shine gloss

in he cracks beween La Perla and LOcci-

aneha churning, invenive, pioneering

spiri improbably surges on. You can see i in

he young provocaeurs o ashion, ar, and

design who ollowed heir muse o Lower

Manhatan, in spie o he coss. You canhear i a experimenal music venues like

(Le) Poisson Rouge and he Sone (run by

avan-garde hero and longime Downown-

er John Zorn). You can knock i back in he

innovaive new breed o cockail barsin-

cluding PDT, Pegu Club, Mayahuel, and

Deah & Co.ha are ransorming New

York nighlie. Downown has become he

anchor o he ciys resauran scene, as well

as he preerred locaion or new hoels. And

aer decades in he doldrums, New York is

finally back o creaing bold new archiec-

ure, much o i below 14h Sree: Winess

he abulous New Museum, opened in 2007

on he Bowery, and, nearby, he soon-o-rise headquarers or he Sperone Weswaer

gallery, designed by Norman Foser. Even

hose inerloping luxury brands and naion-

al chains are copping a Downown edge:

consider Derek Lams sriking new SoHo

sore, by Japanese firm sanaa (who also de-

signed he New Museum), or J.Crews acu-

ally-quie-hip mens emporium in TriBeCa,

he Liquor Sore (co-conceived by Andy

Spade). I one reads anyhing abou he his-

ory o New York, one sees ha is a whole

differen ciy every en years, says Sean

MacPherson, who, wih he Bowery Hoel,

has done pleny o define he curren phase.

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View from the Rock-

feller Center

Photo:TonyShi


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Then and Now - Downown Rebirh

Id say his imeable is off by abou, oh, 10

years. These days, Downown changes isel

every oher week.

More han mos pars o New York, Down-

own readily evokes Then and Now, Beore

and Aer. Hisory is orever bursing o he

surace here, like he underlayers o sub-

way posers or las seasons blockbusers.

For his reason Downown also evokes in isdenizens a keen sense o nosalgia, usual-

ly o he pessimisic sor: Everyhing wen

downhill aer Floren/CBGB/he Mudd

Club closed. Alphabe Ciy was beter when

i was jus ariss and dealers and hieves.

TriBeCa was beter when i didn exis. I

moved o Manhatan a age 24in ime o

cach Jeff Buckley a Sin- bu oo lae o

glimpse Basquia chalk-paining sidewalks.

Whenever you arrived, i seems, you were

eiher oo lae or oo old.

A avorie lamen concerns he Fall o

SoHowhere, eigh years ago, in a meaphor

oo preposerous o make up, he Downown

branch o he Guggenheim Museum was

replaced by a Prada sore. Is rue ha So-

Hos mos recen meamorphosis is sarling

even in a ciy defined by meamorphoses.

Bu oo oen we neglec he long viewand

across is hisory, he curious expanse be-

ween Houson and Canal Srees has seen

pleny o ebbs and flows. Mosly armland

SoHo (South of Houston)

Photo:TonyShi

in he 18h cenury, i became, by 1825, one

o he riches and mos densely populaed

neighborhoods in Manhatan. John Jacob

Asor was a principal landowner. Bu rend-

iness had is drawbacks. The 1860s saw an

influx o high-end reailTiffany; Lord &

Taylorha orced ou a quarer o is res-


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as 1985, when Marin Scorsese sho his cul

classic Aer Hours here. The film sarred

Griffin Dunne as an Upown Mr. Jones los

down he rabbi hole o prehedge und

SoHo and TriBeCa. In he course o one

long nigh hes accosed by burglars and

mohawked punks, flummoxed by a kinky

sculpress, chased by an angry mob, and

ulimaely sen back o Midown encased in

plaser o paris.

You cerainly couldn find a place o

spend he nigh back hen, unless you counhree-dollar SROs. High-end hoels were

scarce Downown unil he mid-90s, when

a handul o bouique properies made in-

roads. Now heyre on every oher block. The

pas 18 monhs have ushered in Rober De

Niros Greenwich Hoel, in TriBeCa; Sean

MacPhersons Jane Hoel, in he Wes Vil-

idens. (Does any o his sound amiliar?) I

was a his ime ha SoHos iconic archi-

ecure ook shape: he grandly ornamened

commercial buildings and warehouses cladin cas iron. Bu in he 1890s reailers began

relocaing Upown, and SoHo spiraled ino

decline; hrough he firs hal o he 20h

cenury i became a waseland known as

Hells Hundred Acres.

The Fluxus aris George Maciunas

really pioneered SoHo as a place o live and

work, explains Lisa Phillips, direcor o

SoHos New Museum. Saring on Wooser

Sree in 1967, Maciunas se up co-ops in

disused cas-iron buildings. So began he

rise o New Yorks mos amous ariss col-

ony. I was abou more han jus affordable

space, Phillips says. I was abou seeing

beauy in unconvenional environmensliving in hose inerzones, in places ha

people wouldn normally hink o as sae.

Is easy o orge how desolae he

ciy used o eel souh o Houson Sree. In

1970, TriBeCa had only 243 residens. To-

day, i has 26,151. Downown sill came off

as a wild, vaguely menacing ronier as lae

History is forever bursting

to the surface here, like the

underlayers of subway posters

for last seasons blockbusters.

Houston Street

Photo: Tony Shi


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lage; Andr Balazss he Sandard, New York;

he Cooper Square Hoel, designed by Carlos

Zapaa Sudio; and he jus-opened Cros-

by Sree Hoel, in SoHo, he firs saesidepropery rom Londons ever-sylish Firm-

dale group.

Downowns hoel boom has helped o

lure a relaively new demographic over he

pas decade: ouriss. Indeed, some week-

ends here appear o be more visiors on

Spring Sree han in Times Square. No sur-

prise, eiher, or SoHo and is saellie neigh-

borhoods have become reail desinaions o

rival Madison Avenue, wih boh global and

homegrown brands, ousize flagships and

back-alley bouiques cheek-by-jowl.

Click here to see the

best places to stay

Howard StreetPhoto: Tony Shi


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Click here to see the

best places to stay

Howard StreetPhoto: Tony Shi

Bowery Hoel

335 Bowery

See on map

212/505-9100

theboweryhotel.com

$$$$$

Crosby Sree Hoel

79 Crosby St

See on map

212-226-6400

crosbystreethotel.com

$$$$$

Greenwich Hoel

377 Greenwich St

See on map

877-888-1255

thegreenwichhotel.com

$$$$$

Jane Hoel

113 Jane St

See on map

212-924-6700

thejanenyc.com

$$$$$

848 Washington St

See on map

212/645-4646

standardhotels.com

$$$$$

Best Hotels in Downtownlage; Andr Balazss he Sandard, New York;

he Cooper Square Hoel, designed by Carlos

Zapaa Sudio; and he jus-opened Cros-

by Sree Hoel, in SoHo, he firs saesidepropery rom Londons ever-sylish Firm-

dale group.

Downowns hoel boom has helped o

lure a relaively new demographic over he

pas decade: ouriss. Indeed, some week-

ends here appear o be more visiors on

Spring Sree han in Times Square. No sur-

prise, eiher, or SoHo and is saellie neigh-

borhoods have become reail desinaions o

rival Madison Avenue, wih boh global and

homegrown brands, ousize flagships and

back-alley bouiques cheek-by-jowl.


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Today even Upown girls sray as ar souh

as (gasp!) Howard Sree, on he grungy

ringes o Chinaown, o peruse he racks a

Opening Ceremony. Carol Lim and Humber-

o LeonU.C. Berkeley grads whod worked

or Bally and Burberrycoounded he bou-

ique in 2002, selling heir own line o cloh-

ing alongside a mix o labels rom Europe,

Asia, and Souh America. A branch in Los

Angeles ollowed. In Augus he duo openedan eigh-sory deparmen sore in Tokyo.

Bu heir hears remain in Lower Manha-

an, specifically he alernae universe o

Howard Sree.

This is a iny pocke o Old New York, Lim

ells me. Even when we opened in 2002,

i was desered aer 7 p.m. Ye hey ound

pleny o kindred spiris. Up he block is E.

Vogel, he 120-year-old cusom shoe place;

Ted Muehling, whos made jewelry around

here since he 90s; and newer sores like De

Vera and BDDWis his incredible litle

sree.

The culinary landscape, oo, has exploded.

Clohes, Food and Rocknroll

Howard Street

In conras o a decade ago, mos o New

Yorks resaurans-o-he-momenhose

ha aren in Brooklynare below 14h

Sree: he Spoted Pig,Locanda Verde, heWaverly Inn & Garden, Eletaria, and he

genre-deying, desinaion-defining resau-

rans o Keih McNally (including Balh-

azar, in SoHo; Pasis, in he Meapacking

Disric;Schillers Liquor Bar, on he Lower

Eas Side; and he new Mineta Tavern, in

Greenwich Village). And hen here are he

Lower Eas Sides WD-50, where relenless-

ly innovaive Wylie Duresne conjures his

meaphysical cuisine, and David Changs

border-jumping Momouku empire in he

Eas Village. Is hard o imagine hese later

resauransdefianly casual, ofea, o-

en quie affordableexising anywhere bu

Downown. And is appealor boh dinersand resauraeursremains undiminished

(i no enhanced) by he areas genrificaion.

As Graydon Carer, co-owner o he Waver-

ly Inn, says, In any oher ciy, downown

connoes a raffish, unbahed, counerculur-

al sensibiliywha Republicans would call

edgy. In New York is all o ha, plus is

Photo:Downtownfrombehind


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geographically accurae.

Even Upown ches are migraing souh.

Daniel Boulud, whose namesake French

resauran ses he sandard or Upper EasSide fine dining, has arrived on he Bow-

ery, o all places, wih a resoluely inormal,

resoundingly loud boe called DBGB Kich-

en & Bar. (Yes, he name is a pun on CBGB,

whose ormer quarers are jus up he block;

he legendary rock club closed in 2006.)

Hearing he Replacemens blasing while

sampling Bouluds noe-perec charcuerie

is quie he novely. Bu i heres a discon-

nec beween his name and he neighbor-

hood, Boulud doesn see i. Ive been a

New Yorker or weny-five years, and jus

happened o drop my suicase Upown, he

says. Ive been coming down here jus as

longparying, visiing riends. So openinga resauran here seemed naural.

Bu Boulud migh no have chosen his

quirky srip were i no or he uurisic

edifice looming down he sree. The New

Museum recalls a seven-sory sack o gi

boxes (an allusion o SoHos reail ransor-

maion?). The seting is incongruous: wo

See on map the best

restaurants, shops

and nightclubs

DBGB Kitchen & Bar

blocks norh o a shop wih a sign proffer-

ing CASH REGISTERS, SLICERS, SCALES,

BANDSAWS and wo doors up rom he

Bowery Mission homeless sheler. Ye he

museum embraces is conex wih an ex-

uberan HELL, YES! (so reads he rain-

bow-colored sign on he aade, an insal-

laion by Swiss aris Ugo Rondinone). The

purview is global, ye he curaors are dedi-

caed o exhibiing ariss who sill live and

work in Downown, such as he up-and-

Photo: Ritzy Nina


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DBGB Kitchen & Bar

connoes a raffish, unbahed, counerculur-

al sensibiliywha Republicans would call

edgy. In New York is all o ha, plus is

geographically accurae.Even Upown ches are migraing souh.

Daniel Boulud, whose namesake French

resauran ses he sandard or Upper Eas

Side fine dining, has arrived on he Bow-

ery, o all places, wih a resoluely inormal,

resoundingly loud boe called DBGB Kich-

en & Bar. (Yes, he name is a pun on CBGB,

whose ormer quarers are jus up he block;

he legendary rock club closed in 2006.)

Hearing he Replacemens blasing while

sampling Bouluds noe-perec charcuerie

is quie he novely. Bu i heres a discon-

nec beween his name and he neighbor-

hood, Boulud doesn see i. Ive been a

New Yorker or weny-five years, and jushappened o drop my suicase Upown, he

says. Ive been coming down here jus as

longparying, visiing riends. So opening

a resauran here seemed naural.

Bu Boulud migh no have chosen his

quirky srip were i no or he uurisic

edifice looming down he sree. The New

Museum recalls a seven-sory sack o gi

boxes (an allusion o SoHos reail ransor-

maion?). The seting is incongruous: wo

blocks norh o a shop wih a sign proffer-

ing CASH REGISTERS, SLICERS, SCALES,

BANDSAWS and wo doors up rom he

Bowery Mission homeless sheler. Ye he

museum embraces is conex wih an ex-

uberan HELL, YES! (so reads he rain-

bow-colored sign on he aade, an insalla-

ion by Swiss aris Ugo Rondinone). The

1stave

Broadw

ay

4th

ave

Parka

ve

5th

ave

W14thSt

E14thSt

6th

ave7

tha

ve

Hu

dson

St

WHoustonSt

BroomeSt

CanalSt

EHoustonSt

1av

3av

14St-

UnionSqChristopher St-SheridanSq

W4St

9thSt

14thSt

SpringSt

Houstonst

BroadwaySt

PrinceSt

2Av

Bowery

Best Restaurants

Waverly Inn & Garden $$$$$

16 Bank St 212-243-7900

American (New), American (Traditional)

Mineta Tavern $$$$$

113 MacDougal St 212-475-3850

French, Steakhouses, Cocktails

Russ & Daughers $$$$$

179 E Houston St 212-475-4880

Delis, Bagels, Eastern European, Seafood

The Spoted Pig $$$$$

314 W 11th St 212-620-0393

British (Modern), Gastropub, Cocktails

WD-50 $$$$$

Eclectic & International, Cocktails

x

Momofuku Ssam Bar $$$$$

207 Second Ave 212-254-3500

Asian Fusion, Small Plates/Tapas, Organic


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The Deroi naive vividly recalls his firs

rip o New York in 1977a pi lgrimage o

see he Ramones a CBGB. Now, in CBs old

digs, Varvaos embraces his inner rock geek:selling vinage vinyl, displaying punk mem-

orabilia, saging ree concers, and reaing

he room less like a clohing sore han, well,

a club. We see i as a culural space, he

says. No way are we rying o emulae wha

was here beore, bu we waned o keep o

he hisory, and o keep music alive in he

Bowery. We have a sage and a P.A., so on

any given day, people show up and play

he guys rom Cheap Trick, Ringo Sarr,

he New York Dolls. And pleny o curious

young rock ans who aren remoely iner-

esed in ashion drop in o he sore jus o

see where CBGB once was.

coming Corsican-born mulimedia aris Ag-

ahe Snow and esablished ariss like Laurie

Simmons.

We were keen o bring a grea work o ar-chiecure o he ciy, and o his sree spe-

cifically, Phillips says. The hope is ha he

Bowery will become a sor o laboraory or

experimenaion in archiecure and design.

Is cerainly become a bona-fide ouris

desinaion. And he museum has spurred

an unexpeced revival o he Bowery: be-

sides DBGB and he Bowery Hoel, recen

openings include Double Crown, a resau-

ran-lounge rom design collecive AvroKO;

he clohing emporiumBlue & Cream; Bow-

ery Elecric, a bar and rock club co-owned

by musician Jesse Malin; a soon-o-debu

pizzeria rom McNally; and, in he ormer

CBGB space, a splashy John Varvaos sore.Hold on, you sayhe birhplace o punk

rock is now a ashion bouique? Well, as

Dave Navarro o Janes Addicion pu i

recenly, Beter his han a Pinkberry. To

Varvaoss credi, rock and roll has always

been par o his brands aesheic; he even

hoss a monhly music show on Sirius XM.

Before and after: The famous nightclub CBGB was closed

in 2006, and reopened as John Varvatos, a designer

menswear store.

Photo:TonyShi

Photo:TonyShi


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Downown is a place o endless collisions

and near-misses, where disparae worlds

rub up agains one anoher wih remarkable

amiliariy. Heres Yonah Schimmels bak-

ery (opened in 1910) abuting an ar-house

cinema; heres he Bowery Hoel sidling

up o a mehadone clinic. In an Eas Village

basemen, he sulry speakeasy PDT hides

behind an unmarked door in a ho dog join,

while over on he Wes Side, a derelic ele-vaed reigh railroad is abloom wih flow-

ers, ransormed ino he ciys newes park.

The High Linehe ormer railroad in ques-

ionis an ap symbol or Downowns

quirky charms, sruggles, and (coninual)

rebirh. Ye were i no or he vision o wo

ordinary ciizens, aris Rober Hammond

and wrier Joshua David, he High Line

migh be jus a memory. Hammond moved

o New York in 1993 and was capivaed by

he Meapacking Disric and Wes Chel-

seasemi-indusrial areas ha weren ra-

diionally beauiul, ha some consider eye-

sores. The High Line in paricular caugh

his imaginaion: a rused jumble o seel

High Line - Railroad Rebirh

Photo: Tony Shi


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girders, concree, and shadow ha wound

hrough Manhatans ar wes side. Buil in

he 1930s, he 1.45-mile-long railway had

been unused since 1980 and was markedor demoliion. A a communiy board hear-

ing on he subjec in 1999, Hammond me

David, and he wo ounded Friends o he

High Line, an advocacy group dedicaed o

saving he srucure. FHL would go on o

raise $150 million o recas he railway as a

pedesrian park.

Downown has more o he juxaposiions

I love abou New Yorkhe glamorous and

he grity, he hard and he so, he old and

he new, Hammond says. Thas why I love

he High Line: Who would have imagined a

seel srucure wih wildflowers growing on

op? The firs secion o he park opened

las spring o rave reviews. The High Linehas culural atracions as well as is ine-

graed archiecure and plan lie. As par

o a long-erm plan or he park o hos

emporary insallaions and perormances

o various kinds, Creaive Time, Friends o

he High Line, and he New York Ciy De-

parmen o Parks and Recreaion commis-

sioned The River Tha Flows Boh Ways by

Spencer Finch as he inaugural ar insalla-

ion. The work is inegraed ino he window

bays o he ormer Nabisco Facory load-ing dock, as a series o 700 purple and grey

colored glass panes. Each color is exacly

calibraed o mach he cener pixel o 700

digial picures, one aken every minue, o

he Hudson River, hereore presening an

exended porrai o he river ha gives he

work is name. Creaive Time worked wih

he aris o realize he sie-specific concep,

which emerged when he saw he rused, dis-

used mullions o he old acory, which me-

al and glass specialiss Jaroff Design helped

o prepare and reinsall.

The High Line is an apt symbol

for Downtowns quirky charms,

struggles, and (continual) rebirth.

View from the top of theHigh Lane

Photo:TonyShi

Photo:TonyShi


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Counerculure Revival

There are hose who eel Downown has be-

rayed iselor, more o he poin, hemin

he name o mammon, ha money has bro-

ken Downowns spiri. Resenmen over

genrificaion is nohing new, bu is grown

increasingly biter in he pas 15 years. (ThaGuggenheim-Prada swich didn help.) For

he firs ime in Manhatans hisory, i has

no bohemian ronier, declared Adam Go-

pnik in The New Yorker in 2007. Anoher

booksore closes, anoher heaer becomes

a condo, anoher soulul place becomes a

sealed residence. MacPherson seconds Go-

pniks alarm: I oen wonder, Do we really

need so many banks?

Bu i he effecs o millennial prosperiy

were undeniable, he effecs o recession are

now plainly visible. Soreron vacancy raes

in New York are a heir highes since he

early 1990s, and a ull one in 10 reail spac-

es in SoHo are presenly unoccupied. Wihprices loosening up a litle, MacPherson

says, here migh be more room or more

advenurous projecs..

So will he soening o he real esae mar-

ke spark a revival? Will poes and sculpors

recolonize Lower Manhatan? Phillips is

opimisic. Downown sill represens he

vanguard o he counerculure. Theres sillCity Hall Park

Photo: Tony Shi


15/16

R M 15/14

neighborhood rom her youh, when he

Lower Eas Side was sill dominaed by

working-class amilies. Is ransormaion

ino a rendseters basion is now complee,hough races o he Old World remain: in

he cacophonous weekend markeplace on

Orchard Sree; in he discoun underwear

shops run by Orhodox Jews; in he bril-

lianly conceived Lower Eas Side Tenemen

Museum, which documens he era when

his immigrans gheto was he denses con-

urbaion on earh.

Federman sudied or an MBA a Yale and

worked in inernaional developmen and

healh care and as a yoga eacher unil a ew

a lo o renegade hinking ha akes place

hereand he downurn is going o bring

even more changes.

Ar and music do seem o be more inspiredwhen people are sruggling, Jesse Malin ob-

serves. Downown always needs ha nex

kick in he ass.

I novely is one o he only consans in

New York, here are also places whose con-

sancy is he novely. Places ha have held

on so long hey migh as well be preserved

in vinegar. Places like , he Jewish appeiz-

ing shop has occupied he same Houson

Sree soreron since 1920. Is he sor o

spo where you migh join a nonagenarian

widow, a atooed drummer, and Harvey

Keiel in line or bagels and whiefish.

All hese hipsers whove setled in he

neighborhood are now discovering us,says Niki Russ Federman, he 31-year-old

grea-granddaugher o ounder Joel Russ.

Youll see hem chating wih he grand-

mohers, sharing ipsOh, you have o ry

he wasabi-roe and cream-cheese sand-

wich!

Federman remembers a wholly differen

years ago, when she began o consider join-

ing he amily business. She go an unex-

peced boos rom a Downown icon. I was

a a riends pary, and Lou Reed happenedo be here, she recalls. Id brough some

hors doeuvres rom Russ & Daughers, and

Lou was hovering around he able, devour-

ing he smoked salmon. Someone finally

old him who I was. He marched righ over

and shook my hand and said Niki, I jus

waned o sayyoure New York royaly.

Lou Reed! I almos dropped on he floor.

And when Lou Reed speaks, Downowners

lisen. No long aerward she sared work

a he shop.

Russ & Daughters occupied the

same Houston Street storefront

since 1920

Photo:TonyShi


16/16

R M 16/14

The one hing New Yorkers can

agree on is ha Downown jus

eels dieren. You sense i he

minue you cross ha dispued

border. Few ciyscapes have

such recognizable iconography.

Photo: Tony Shi

Documents

Travel Magazine - NY article