TRIP REPORT – ZINAVE MOZAMBIQUE OUTING

By Wendy Olivier

The trip officially kicked off on the 8th August with everyone meeting at the Pafuri River Camp. This was a super campsite

with ablutions and hot water. Mynie and Gert were ragged for cooking a WHOLE chicken flattie which we thought would

take the whole night to cook. And then to top it all out came a digital thermometer to test the “doneness” 😊

A note was made of Kit having left his tent at home and having to turn back the day before to retrieve it. He also forgot

his beers which Peter and Linda kindly agreed to buy in Louis Trichardt. Straf dops were now being threatened to the

offenders.

The next morning, we enjoyed a

hearty breakfast at the Lodge

and sang “happy birthday” to

Clara before heading off for the

Kruger National Park through

the Pafuri Gate.

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We stopped at Crooks Corner

for a group photo.

On reversing at the border, Peter managed to

knock off his side mirror which then had to be

duct taped together and remounted. Straf

dop!!

We spent our first night in Mozambique at Dumela, which is always a pleasant place to stay at. The hot water showers

and flushing toilets are always a winner!

The following morning, we set off for Zinave National Park on a very scenic drive through a couple of villages. This was

very slow going and the dust created as we drove along in convoy was reminiscent of talcum powder.

Mynie managed to lose his tow rope en route. Fortunately, Chris noticed it on the road and picked it up, saving Mynie’s

bacon. Straf dop!!

We crossed the mighty Limpopo, which in

reality was a small patch of water.

After the crossing, we stopped for the now

famous bacon o’clock buttie lunch.

His shock absorber had pierced a fuel pipe and, thank goodness, Chris, also a Landover driver, who has had years of

experience doing his McGyver running repairs, managed to sort out the problem by removing the offending shock

absorber with a lot of advice being offered by the peanut gallery.

As a result of the delay, we were unable to make camp that night and decided to wild camp. We found a suitable spot

away from the main road and set up camp.

And then – Mynie’s Landrover broke

down!! Another straf dop!!

After most of us had retired for the night, only Clara and Linda were left sitting round the camp fire burning the midnight

oil, we received an unexpected visit by a police contingent arriving with flashing red and blue lights and armed with AK47’s!

The rest of us were blissfully unaware of the unfolding drama as we were soundly asleep. They wanted us to accompany

them to the police station and failing that, to hand over our passports. It took some skilful negotiations from the 2 ladies

(fortunately Clara is fluent in Portuguese) to avoid either of these happening and the police then said that they would

then have to place two armed policemen with us to “protect” us from bandits at a cost of R250 per policeman.

Mynie, unaware of the events, had got up to use the toilet and was confronted by the 2 policemen, who had been to

collect firewood from the veld, carrying AK 47’s. They very quickly identified themselves as cops when confronted by

Mynie who was about to defend the camp! The thought of what could have happened, was very funny once we could

laugh about the night’s event the next day.

Our not so very friendly cops!

While travelling to our next destination,

Mabote, a few of us were fortunate enough

to see a Black Mamba. Peter saw it crossing

the road and kept track of which tree it took

refuge in.

What happens on trail, stays on trail. So, we

will say no more about this event other than

we are delighted to have a picture of said

snake. 😊

After a long day on the road we finally arrived in Mabote and decided to learn from the experience of the previous night

and reported to the local police to ask permission to wild camp. One night of AK47 wielding police is enough for one trip!

Permission was granted to us by the local police, to camp on the abandoned airstrip on the outskirts of the town. The

police came across as very professional and were even able to speak a little English. No money exchanged hands and no

guards patrolled!

Mabote sports a rather large market, where one can buys fresh food, beer and even flip flops if one has forgotten them

at home! Gert proudly wore his market purchase for the rest of the trip. Both petrol and diesel are readily available at this

town. From Mabote, we drove to Zinave National Park.

Our arrival and signing in at Zinave

The following day we had a relaxed day leisurely taking a drive around the Zinave Pan where we saw a large number of

waterbuck, impala, a few hippos and crocs. We saw a martial eagle, fish eagle, goliath herons and large variety of water

birds. We visited Tondo Lodge in Zinave, which was quite a disappointment due to its rundown condition. But the view

over the river was exceptional and we spent some time sitting on the veranda.

Zinave Pan

The water hole near our Leadwood Campsite with a Baobab Tree in the back ground.

James and Pat happily ensconced in their

campsite in Zinave.

We met the Peace Parks project manager, Bernard van Lente, who spent some time with us sharing stories.

We also met Justin, one of the rangers, who assisted in delivering a tank of water for us to use and getting his guys to dig

a hole for the toilet seat. On seeing Mynie’s Landrover he could not believe that the vehicle had been driven all the way

from Johannesburg and asked if Mynie was a mechanic much to the amusement of the peanut gallery.

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The next morning while packing up for the next leg of the journey we heard a trumpeting elephant but unfortunately did

not see any of the many elephants in the park.

That night we camped at Banhine’s Domasse Camp site which looks a bit like a construction site, but was adequate. Just

before dark, 2 vehicles of French travellers, en route to Vilanculous, arrived to spend the night.

The following day we departed for The Limpopo National Park with 3 of the vehicles opting to travel via the “tar road” to

Massingir dam while the rest of us chose the more scenic route through the forests.

This is a truly beautiful park. Here one is spoiled with many sightings of Mopani and Fever tree forests. We stopped for

lunch at the Nhampfule Camp, which has flushing toilets and donkey- heated water. Along the way we saw impala, duikers,

Peter handed him a FWDCSA T-shirt in a

“handing-over ceremony”.

Mynie’s beloved Landie, ‘Roxy’ 😊 Locals pumping water in Mabote

giraffe, koran birds and an angry elephant. That night, having set up camp at Sandelo, we heard hyenas in the distance

whilst “kuiering” around the campfire.

The next morning, we set off for Massingir dam, detouring past the Shingwedzi Cliffs and Ngwenya Pools driving over a

level 4 road for 10 kilometres which took a couple of hours but was well worth the time as the scenery was magnificent.

Moon rise and camping at Sandelo Camp Site

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Shingwedzi Cliffs

Mbona Kaya camp where we had

lunch.

Roy Driving the rocky roads

Ngwenya Pools

We met up with the rest of the gang at the dam and the following morning, before leaving, we were fed a scrumptious

meal prepared by Gert, who had now earned the reputation of the being the camp cook, and Chris.

Last evening camping at Aquuia Pasqueira (Fish Eagle) Camp

Kit, Adel and Chris spending a lazy day over looking Massingir Dam

We arrived in Phalaborwa for our final night together and proceeded to C U guesthouse. After having booked in, we

discovered that a birthday party with a guest expectation of 500 people, were expected to arrive at our guesthouse

short time later. After we objected rather strongly, we were relocated to the Cajori Hotel where we enjoyed a

comfortable night and a good meal, despite confusion with some deserts being served before the mains and Gert and

Linda having to wait a long time for their meals. Kit and Linda ordered Irish coffees which were served in expresso

cups!! Kit decided to offer his services to show how an Irish coffee was made. The waiters were very grateful to Kit and

almost got it right when left to make it without his assistance!! Hopefully they will practice before our next visit😊

After handing out prizes (which were very generously and thoughtfully donated by Roy and Wendy) to the 2 Landrover

drivers, Chris for being the bush mechanic and Mynie for being the “newby”, straf doppe were handed out and everyone

took their “punishment” without too many complaints.

Once again, thank you to Peter and Linda for a well-organized trip and one which can definitely be recommended to the

club for future visits.