Turret Clock Guidelines

[Turret Clock Guidelines Page 1 of 48]

Guidelines for theRepair, Restoration, Conservation,

Preservation&

Maintenanceof Turret Clocks

by

Chris McKayBSc CEng MIEE MBHI


Published byChris McKay

LavenhamHinton Martell

Wimborne MinsterDorset BH21 7HGUnited Kingdom.

[email protected]

Dear Reader,Here is the initial issue of the Turret Clock Guidelines. It is only available as an e-docment, there is no printed version.

Around 40 people have contributed to the two initial drafts of these Guidelines. Contributors were mostly practical people with some involvement with turret clocks. Diocesan clocks advisers, conservators and museum curators also commented making the whole document something much more than my original. Further comments are welcome; please email me.

My initial idea was to publish the Guidelines once photos had been added. On reflection I will wait awhile for feedback and then probably incorporate the Guidelines into the notes of the course that I run at the BHI on Turret Clocks, and turn the whole into a book.

A late contribution indicates that I ought to make a clearer distinction between ordinary turret clocksand those that deserve careful restoration techniques. As this would take some time I have decided to publish these notes as the first issue, and consider the proposal for the next version.

Another suggestion is to produce an accompanying document ‘Commissioning Turret Clock Work’. This would be a short guideline aimed at those, eg churchwardens, who have to organise restoration and repair work on a turret clock. Topics would be things like, ‘comparing and understanding quotations’ and ‘reasonable and unreasonable exclusions’ ‘maintenance’ and ‘warranties’. Your comments please.

Next issue will probably be at the end of 2007.

Regards,

Chris McKay

First Issue July 2007Copyright Notice© C. G. McKay

2007

This document may be reproduced in its entirety free of charge. Those reproducing the document may make a charge to cover the cost of printing or photocopying. These Guidelines may not be sold commercially. Complete paragraphs may be quoted in other works provided that the source is acknowledged.


Contents

Introduction 5Turret Clocks... Our Heritage 5Objective 5Principles 5Scope 5How this book came about 5About the Author 6

Acknowledgements 6The Turret Clock Keeper’s Handbook 7Health & Safety 7

Disclaimer 7Definitions 7Why a Philosophy? 8Philosophy 8

Repairs 9Recording 9Conservation 9Maintenance 9Improvements 10Economics 10

Cleaning turret clocks 10Mechanical Cleaning 11Solvent-based Cleaning 13Dealing with Finishes 15

Common Repairs 17Weights Lines 19Leading off work and motionworks 20Dials 21Bells and Bell hammer work 24Conversions Alterations & Repairs 26Conservation 28Documentation 29Maintenance 30Automatic winders 32

New Systems 33Obsolescence 32Motor-Assisted Winding 33Installation of Automatic Winders 33Connection of Automatic Winders 34

Existing Automatic Winders 36Night Silencing 36Automatic Correctors or Automatic Regulators 37Chimes 38Electric clocks 38Risk Assessment Check Sheet 40

Access 40Weight Lines 41Weights 41Dials 42Bells and Hammers 42


Mobile Phone Transmitters 42Faculties 43Beyond Economic Repair 42The Future for Retired Clocks 43Choosing a Turret Clock Restorer 44Qualifications for Turret Clock Restorers 44Customer Expectation 45Value Added Tax (VAT) 45Organisations 46The Turret Clock Database 46Bibliography 47

RevisionsJuly 2007 First Issue27 July 2007 Minor corrections


IntroductionTurret Clocks... Our Heritage“There is no dead thing quite so like a living thing as a clock.” So wrote Lord Grimthorpe (designer of the Great Clock at Westminster (popularly called ‘Big Ben’) in the first edition of his famous book ‘A Rudimentary Treatise on Clocks, Watches and Bells’.

We have in the British Isles a wonderful heritage of turret clocks in churches, town halls, stable blocks, houses, public institutions, clock towers and so on. Estimates indicate there could be some 25,000 mechanical clocks in service. As well as being decorative, a turret clock is a functional item. Despite the technology that brings to us all very accurate time, turret clocks are still regarded with respect and affection. Most people enjoy their chimes. A turret clock is more than a clock movement, it is the whole entity, movement, weights, clock case, leading off work, dials, bells, hammers, building itself and indeed the locality, culture and history that surrounds it all.

ObjectiveThe objective of these Guidelines is that through establishing good practice based on a sound philosophy, our turret clocks should be preserved for the many generations that will follow on after us. To provide a set of rules on turret clock work which are to be slavishly followed would be naive. Rather the issues involved with turret clock work are highlighted, and decision making processes are covered so that each clock, which is a unique and individual item, can be assessed and an appropriate course of action decided.

Primarily this booklet is intended as a technical book for those horologists who work on turret clocks. However, it is hoped that it will be of use to others: owners, the clock winder, those who are responsible for the care of turret clocks, collectors, church wardens, manufacturers, museums, local authorities, and clocks advisers to churches and other organisations.

PrinciplesIn a turret clock we have an artefact that needs to ‘live’ and perform a public task. As well as a clock movement there are dials, a bell or bells and many other things associated with the clock. A turret clock restorer not only has to be an able horologist and understand the clock mechanism, but must be a lot more besides… a competent engineer, joiner, electrician, builder, painter and gilder, lead worker, machinist, and sometimes steeplejack.

The hyper-conservationist might want a turret clock to be stopped, to be preserved as a snapshot of history with all its problems, woes and tired-looking dial. On the other hand, the over-enthusiastic restorer would want to make new parts so the clock worked well, ignoring ancient materials, techniques and styles, perhaps to the ultimate extent of having totally to remake the clock. Both of these extreme views are in the author’s view generally inappropriate.

Many turret clocks are in places of worship; whilst church communities care for the fabric and fittings of their buildings, they cannot be expected to function as a museum.

ScopeThese guidelines are intended to be applicable to all types of turret clocks in the British Isles. Certain organizations, such as The Church of England, have their own specific rules. However these Guidelines are much broader and deeper than what is currently available.

Those persons who work on turret clocks outside of the British Isles are also invited to consider using these Guidelines as best fits their clock in the context of their country, culture, availability of tools and materials, maintenance capability, and their current economic situation.

How this book came about


Having run courses on turret clock work, I was very conscious that repairers need to have some guide as to what sort of work was acceptable and what was not. Apart from that, several friends and colleagues in the trade suggested I produce a Turret Clock Code of Practice that would establish proper expectations for work to be carried out, and expose unacceptable practices that are detrimental to the clocks and not acceptable to the great majority of conscientious restorers who operate in the turret clock field.

The first draft was circulated to restorers, repairers, manufacturers as well as museums andconservation bodies. Comments and suggested alterations were invited and the first edition wasprepared which was reviewed by a small expert panel before issue.

About the authorChris Mckay’s interest in turret clock dates back to when he was 11 and was fascinated with a derelict clock tower overlooking the football pitch used by the school. When he was 19 he was involved with a team of others in the repair of the clock. Since the he has worked a wide range of turret clocks from major restorations to servicing. He has been involved in work in Canada, Australia and Western Africa.

He graduated as an electronic engineer from Sussex University and achieved Chartered Engineer status when he was 29. His electronics experience ranged from field service through design and development to manufacturing and testing. After being made redundant Chris fell into teaching where for 12 years he taught Design and Technology in secondary school and then turned to clock work with the additional objective of writing books.

Chris is a professional member of the British Horological Institute (BHI) and has run technical courses on turret clocks for the BHI, and also for new apprentices and companies. He lectures on turret clocks and horological topics.

Chris is a member of the Antiquarian Horological Society (AHS) and was for 27 years on the committee of its Turret Clock Group. He has at various times been its Treasurer, Secretary and finally Chairman for 12 years. He has edited their ‘A Guide to Turret Clock Research’ and ‘The Great Salisbury Clock Trial’.

While a member of the Council for the Places of Worship, 25 years ago he wrote their turret clock information booklet. He has recently been invited to rejoin this committee now known as The Council for the Care of Churches..

Other publications include ‘The Turret Clock Keeper’s Handbook’, which has sold over 4,500 copies, and works biographies:Smith of ClerkenwellMoore of ClerkenwellBenson of Ludgate Hill.

In preparation is a book on James Harrison of Hull, the last of that great family of clockmakers. Future projects include a history of The Great Clock at the Palace of Westminster (Big Ben) and a definitive book on British turret clocks.

AcknowledgementsThe help of the following persons is gratefully acknowledged: Nicholas Smith who suggested I undertook writing these Guidelines. Keith Scobie Youngs FBHI and Peter D Watkinson FBHI. Both of whom freely gave their technical expertise.

Almost 40 people responded to the initial draft that was sent out for review. The great majority in their


modesty did not elect to have their names included in the acknowledgements. Their help was absolutely invaluable and without them, the Guidelines would only be half of what they are now. Contributors came from a variety of backgrounds represented in the main by practical professionals, as well as historians, museum curators, and diocesan clocks advisers. Quite a few inputs from overseas were received. The contributions are hereby acknowledged with thanks. Not every comment could be incorporated since people have widely different views on the best way to work on turret clocks. In editing the comments I strove to use what was above all practical but sensible, and in the main acceptable to the majority without damaging the clock. Some extremes of vicious cleaning and others of being over-cautious had to be passed by.

To my knowledge, no one has produced anything detailed like this before, either for domestic clocks or for antique watches.

The Turret Clock Keeper’s HandbookFirst published by the Turret Clock Group of the Antiquarian Horological Society (AHS) in 1998, the Turret Clock Keeper’s Handbook is for those who look after a turret clock. After a history and basic introduction to a turret clock installation, the book gives straight-forward advice on the basics of a turret clock; winding, setting to time, adjustment, correction of striking etc. Regular maintenance is also covered, but only regarding the need, not the detail of how to do it.

The first draft of the book was circulated to a wide variety of interested parties concerned with turret clocks. The final version benefited greatly from contributions from these other sources. To date 4,500 copies have been printed.

Health & SafetyVisiting a turret clock may be dangerous; access could involve using ladders, stone staircases that can be worn and wooden floors and steps could be wormed or rotten. See section on Risk Assessment Check Sheets for a much fuller analysis of possible hazards.

Users must familiarise themselves with all safety issues when using chemicals, Consult the appropriate Control of Substances Hazardous to Health (COSHH) data. Where health and safety warnings are given in the text, these are intended as reminders, not a complete guide to correct usage.

DisclaimerThis document is intended to give guidelines on issues involved with turret clocks and is given in good faith. Anyone visiting, or undertaking any aspect of turret clock work does so at their own risk. No responsibility is accepted for any other person’s actions regarding turret clocks.

DefinitionsClock installationA clock installation is the complete entity of turret clock movement, weights, weight chutes, lines, pulleys, leading off work, bevels, dials, hands, motionworks, bells, bell hammers, bell cranks, bell wires and casework for clock, and anything else that relates directly to the clock.

RepairRepair is the replacement, mending or re-shaping of a worn, broken, or missing part or parts.


Preservation, Conservation and RestorationClocks are different from other categories of historical artefacts or works of art in that they are working mechanisms with moving parts that wear out. The terms preservation, conservation and restoration can therefore have slightly different meanings from those applied to static works of art.

PreservationPreservation is the process that attempts to arrest or delay the processes of wear and decay in a clock and leave it as found, with no parts added or taken away. The process retains all previous alterations as an historical record of the treatment the clock has received through the ages. As a clock is a working mechanism with moving parts prone to wear, preservation can in practice mean the clock being retained only as a static display.

ConservationConservation is the process that aims to arrest or delay the processes of wear and decay and maintain the historical integrity of a clock, while allowing it to continue as a working mechanism. The presumption is that the only alterations allowed are the replacement of worn out parts, with minimum intervention and reversibility, as long as this does not upset historical integrity. If it does, preservation might be the option.

Restoration There are two meanings to this word: the first, and unfortunately all too prevalent, is a vague term that covers preservation, conservation and strict restoration; the second more precise term describes the process of attempting to return a clock to its original state, or a state at a defined date in its history. Where an historical mechanism is reasonably complete, or missing parts are clear and obvious, this can be a valid process. However, it can mean the removal of parts later than the defined restoration date and in the past some restoration has seen the removal of, for example, early pendulum and anchor escapements in favour of the speculative reconstructions of foliot and verge. Use of the vague term restoration should be discouraged, while restoration in its stricter sense should be approached with caution.

MaintenanceMaintenance is regular and ongoing cleaning, lubrication and inspection of a clock installation.

ChimesSome clocks set off a tune playing device several time a day. These mechanisms are often called carillons; strictly speaking these should be called tune barrels or chimes.

Why a Philosophy?The whole of these Guidelines revolve around a philosophy instead of rules. If we establish the key points on what we are trying to achieve, then good practice will follow naturally.

Of course there may be factors that mean that the ideal solution cannot be achieved. Economics is likely to be the main constraining issue, along with time scales and practicality

PhilosophyA turret clock installation needs to ‘live’ and perform a public task. This includes leaving it substantially as originally made, though complete with the modifications and updates that time has necessarily inflicted, but less those that are disfiguring or completely out of character with the existing mechanism. The clock should tell the time as accurately as reasonably possible, and where applicable, strike on a bell. Dials should be working, attractive and appropriate to the building.


Not only should any work carried out be technically correct, it should be aesthetically pleasing and not intrusive.

Every clock installation is different, so each has to be assessed on the situation, merits and economic constraints. A balanced approach is needed, perhaps trading one thing against another. At the end, the best possible outcome is needed for that individual clock installation.

RepairsRepairs should be carried out in a workmanlike manner, following the style of the original and using appropriate materials.

It is not necessary always to make ‘invisible repairs’ with some things such as bushings, it is good to be able see what previous repairs have been made.

The use of appropriate modern materials and processes, such as stainless steel, adhesives and laser welding is quite acceptable. Examples are phosphor bronze for bushes, stainless steel for minute arbor ends, outside hammer pivots, and using thread locking and retaining compounds for securing parts. It would be clearly inappropriate to say, make a replacement wheel of stainless steel on the grounds that it would not rust.

Replacement parts should ideally be identified by stamping with a date and preferably with the initials of the repairer. Also work done should be documented in a report. Original parts should be retained, screwing them inside the clock case, or onto the clock stand ensures they do not get parted from the clock.

Cleaning methods should be appropriate for a clock; brasswork not necessarily brightened up nor paint and lacquer removed.

Repairs should always be minimal in approach, e.g. a brass train wheel bush is not replaced entirely, but rather sleeved.

Replacements should be carried out only when absolutely necessary e.g. a bell hammer lever that has broken and been repaired several times could be replaced since further repairs could be unreliable.Where appropriate, replacements must be in the style of the original part, say a part on the clock movement. In the example of the bell hammer, a complete modern replacement might well be acceptable.

Automatic winders must be installed in a safe, mechanically-correct and aesthetically pleasing manner, and be removable without trace. The original weights, winding handle, pulleys and weight chutes should be retained. However, some churches have automatic winding installed specifically to create more space by the elimination of weights and weight chutes.

RecordingExtensive work should always be recorded, documented and supported with photographs.

MaintenanceRoutine maintenance should be carried out on a turret clock installation at least once a year. Simplecleaning, and lubrication should be carried out on all parts of the installation and key items checked for wear and health and safety issues. A brief dated report should be produced; this could take the form of a ‘tick list’.

Conservation“If it’s not practical its not conservation” is a catch phrase that well sums up conservation.


Conservation measures for a turret installation include many simple low-cost things that can be done to keep dirt and the weather at bay.

Regular maintenance is also an excellent way to help conserve a clock.

Having a turret clock stopped under the guise of ‘preservation’ is generally not acceptable, since running a clock is beneficial to keep rust from forming on pinions and pivots. If the clock in question is either so rare, or in such poor condition that its originality would be seriously compromised by the extent of repairs required, then retirement and preservation is a suitable option.

ImprovementsTo improve a turret clock is seldom needed or desirable. However, sometimes original parts have gross design defects that demand that an improvement is needed in order that the clock will run reliably. Cosmetic improvements should not be carried out, e.g. filling unused holes in frames. .

Drilling holes in hour tubes to provide lubrication to the outer bearing is acceptable, also adding an oiling tube to take the lubricant to the inaccessible end of an hour tube. Where motionworks are totally inaccessible, say immediately behind dials inside a thick wall, then it may be better for the clock to move the motionworks into the tower and extend the hour tube and minute arbor.

EconomicsEconomics is an every-day part of turret clock work. Any proposed course of action will of course have a financial implication, and that must be within budget constraints. Costs of research, report writing and photography should be included in the budget.

Cleaning Turret ClocksMany 19th century turret clocks are housed in purpose-built wooden cases that help to keep the clock movement clean. Earlier clocks often have no case at all. However, turret clocks can get very dirty mainly with accumulated oil and grease that solidifies with the passage of years. For unprotected clocks, dust and grit blowing about in towers can get into the movement. Bird droppings are frequently encountered where tower louvres are not properly netted. Towers can experience a wide variation of temperature, as well as damp, usually in the form of condensation. All these factors conspire to accelerate the process of decay and corrosion. Sometimes condensation on clocks is experienced where the clock is in an unventilated case.

Proximity to the coast is particularly problematic especially in the 19th century of wrought-iron where the salt sometimes seems to get into the structure of the metal and can present as beads of water along the slag seams caused by the absorption of atmospheric moisture

Damp causes corrosion to metals in form of rust on iron and verdigris on brass, bronze and copper. The first thing is to remove the source of damp and ensure the clock room and the clock case are both dry. In a tower there will always be problems with condensation when the weather changes; adequate ventilation in a clock case is therefore needed.

Just what to clean and how far to go is the problem that every repairer / restorer / conservator has to address. There are conflicting objectives: The clock needs to run reliably, it needs to look attractive but still retain the evidence of its making and subsequent history. Cleaning can potentially remove evidence. Surface finish and patina on say, an old bracket clock, is attractive to discerning collectors. Turret clocks can have a much coarser finish, so this must to be borne in mind when choosing a process.

The starting point is the clock, and to consider its age, its historical importance, the maker, how


common the clock is, plus any other related features. Next to consider is the planned use and position of the clock and what the owner’s wishes are. Then a plan of action can be developed. Giving some examples as guidelines may help.

Case 1 is a flatbed by Cope of Nottingham dated 1897. It is in a church and has been disused for many years and the whole clock is very rusty, the brass work is green and there is little paint on anything. Cope made some dozens of clocks, so they are not unusual, and have no particular technical features or merit. A good decision here is to strip the clock back to bare metal and, after repairs, to paint ironwork in the original colour and to lacquer brasswork.

Case 2 is a small end-to-end movement of the 17th century that has been converted to pendulum. It has been found in a store room in a stately home and the owner would like the clock running as a display. The ironwork is all rusted. Here minimal cleaning is the best plan, pinions, pivots, wheel teeth and running parts would need careful attention. Provided the rust was not active and the clock was going into a dry environment, the surface rust could be coated with black wax.

Case 3.is an unsigned two-train birdcage movement of around 1740. The workmanship is absolutely top quality, pinions and pallets are unworn. The whole frame is shabby with half of the paint (probably not original) missing and some rust. Brasswork is discoloured with a little corrosion. The clock is in a private house. Here is a case where minimal cleaning of corrosion products is the best course of action.

Mechanical Cleaning

Mechanical CleaningItem Recommendation NotesLoose dirt Wooden scraper Will not scratchLoose dirt andrust on cast iron

Steel scraper Do not use on brass

Loose dirt, on brass

Brass scraper

Rust on cast iron.

A cup or knot wire brush on angle grinder. This can glaze over rust and whilst a thin oxide layer is acceptable, a glazed crust is not. It is beneficial to sharpen the brush by running it on an old grinding-wheel.

Very effective on cast iron, never use on brass or wrought iron.

Rust on wrought iron.

Remove loose rust with wire brush.

Use proprietary rust neutralizer.

Paint or treat with microcrystalline wax.

Finnegan’s Waxoyl is a similar wax product.

Old wrought-iron before around 1700 rusts then the rust seems to form a hard coating and no more rust occurs. In this state it is probably best left alone as it is a stable coating.

Teeth on cast iron wheels

Hand steel wire brush

Teeth on brass wheels

Hand brass wire brush

Anything Abrasives such as Garyflex blocks and emerytape. Garyflex is a trade name for a rubber block impregnated with abrasive; they are available in four different grades from very fine to coarse.

Wet or dry paper, rottenstone and pumice

Causes scratches, depending on fineness of abrasive. Can round edges.

Use with caution


sometimes useful. (Rottenstone is an old traditional abrasive used by clockmakers, it is also known as Tripoli powder and is the mainconstituent in liquid metal polish)

Suppliers to vintage vehicle restorers have a variety of abrasive wheels that are kind to metals.

3M make abrasive pads like household pan scourers. These pads are used in the automotive paint finishing trade, are available in different grades and produce a very fine finish.

Insides of brass / bronze bushes

Brass gun barrel brush.

Sisal parcel twine is a rough hairy string good for running through small holes.

Pipe cleaners (as used by pipe smokers) are good for tiny holes like those for gravity arms.

Paint-stripper very effective on varnished oil, but keep off lacquer.

Fine wire wool attached to an arbor produces a good finish.

Do not use emery or grit-loaded abrasives inside holes.

Heavily rusted items e.g. bell cranks, bell hammers, cast iron dials.

Grit blasting.

Glass beads produce the best finish. Sand also is a more gentle abrasive.

Good for heavily rusted cast iron.

Use with caution on wrought iron.

Primer needs to be particularly carefully chosen, ideally with some form of passivation built in to neutralise any remaining rust.

Zinc spraying on iron dials and hammer work can be used as a protection before painting.

Grit blasting cast iron dials often reveals filled blow-holes in the original casting.

Coarse grades of grit are not appropriate. Check a sample before proceeding.

Protect pivots and fixed brass bushes with gaffer tape.

Ensure the company doing the work uses appropriate grade of grit.

Prime or have zinc sprayed immediately after blasting.

Holes in dials can be filled with car body filler.

Light corrosion where some surface brightening would be appropriate.

Fine steel wool and oil. Cleans and brightens without damaging surface.


Solvent-based Cleaning

Solvent-based CleaningItem Recommendation NotesLight soil, bird droppings

Detergent and water Pressure washers are very useful.

Steam and hot water washers would also be good.

Dry items in a warm chamber after final rinsing, fluids seep into cracks particularly around bushes.

Oil and grease White spirit, paraffin. Inflammable, do not use on site.

May remove some paint.

When dry, wash off with detergent and water as the smell can remain for ages.

Wiping exposed ironwork with an oily rag will prevent rust.

Oil and grease Emulsifiers as used in pressure washers or for engine and parts degreasing.

May remove some paint, check first.

Check to see if emulsifier can be diluted.

Wash off with detergent and water.

Pressure washers are very useful.

Wiping exposed ironwork with an oily rag will prevent rust.

Hard congealed oil and grease

Paint stripper. Removes paint and lacquer.

Severe soil, verdigris

Caustic soda bath Removes paint, lacquer. Softens verdigris and rust.

Can etch brass.

Do not have any zinc-plated (galvanised) iron items in the bath, otherwise everything gets plated with zinc.

Hazardous chemical.General soil, tarnished brass.

Ammoniated clock cleaning solution.[Note 1]

The ammonia brightens brass by removing the surface.


It can aggravate stress corrosion.

Soak cleaned items in water to remove ammonia.

Hazardous chemical.General soil, tarnished brass.

‘Thames soup’ cleaning solution[Note 2]

Cleans without significantly brightening brass.

If you leave it for a couple of days and brush off the debris from time to time it will leave the surface scoured of every trace of corrosion product. If the surface was previously very corroded it will be left looking very rough indeed with a porous surface exposed.

‘Thames Soup’ will brighten bronzes which ammonia blackens, it does leave the surface very clean and it can go a bit orangey in colour if not carefully brushed and cleaned.

Can be expensive.Rust Rust remover. (These are often based on

phosphoric acid)Very effective but etches the iron.

Hazardous chemical.Rust Electrolytic cleaning.

[Note 3]Removes rust without damaging surface. A very slow process.

Good for items like pulley wheels. Remember that once corrosion products have been removed, some pitting may then show up.

For ancient wrought iron ask the questions “Does the rust need to be removed?”

Note 1This is commercially available as clock cleaning solution, it comes as a concentrate that is diluted before use. Formulas for this are found in most books on clock repairing, generally the mix is 1 cup of soft soap (oleic acid), 1 cup of acetone, 1 cup strong (0.88) ammonia, and 1 gallon water. Warning: Eye protection must be used when using ammonia, and it must be used in a ventilated space. A special ammonia mask is made by 3M.

Note 2


‘Thames soup’ is the name that became attached to the cleaning solution used by the Old Royal Observatory at Greenwich. The formula for this as found on page 33 of ‘Conservation of Clocks and Watches edited by Peter Wills, published by the BHI in 1995 is…3.3ml of DPTA (DPTA is pentasodium salt diethylenetriaminepenta-acetic acid)0.28ml of Triton X 100 (a soap).100ml water boiled to remove the oxygen.

Note 3Electrolytic cleaning involves suspending a rusted iron artefact in a bath of electrolyte, usually a caustic soda solution. The item to be cleaned is connected to the –ve cathode, and a stainless steel mesh anode is connected to the +ve terminal. A low voltage is applied and a current of several amps is passed through the item to be de-rusted. Gas evolves in the process that must be done in a well ventilated place. For fuller details a search on the Internet will reveal a lot of museum-based documentation on the subject.

Dealing with FinishesFinish on a domestic clock is a source of much discussion. The discerning collector usually wants a clock that looks old, has a nice patina, but is clean and functional.

A turret clock is not a domestic clock in a house. It is usually housed in an unheated room in a tower and is subject to damp and dust. Consequently the finish on a turret clock is functional. Whilst it is desired to preserve a nice antique finish, rust, verdigris, missing paint and dirt do not constitute a ‘finish’.

Dealing with FinishesItem Recommendation NotesOriginal paint in good condition.

The original paint finish of the clock should be preserved where possible.

Original paint in fairishcondition.

If some paint is missing, then treating with microcrystalline wax is a good approach.

Can touch up missing parts.

Paints can now be computer colour matched.

Original paint in poor condition.

This is a difficult one. From a conservation view the missing paint could be touched in with a matched paint.

If most of the paint is missing then a completerepaint may be the best solution, but leaving evidence of the original colour.

Leave original paint in places where it will not be seen, under removable bushes and train bars.

Or, take samples for later analysis.

Paint colours do change with age, usually by the action of light. Turret clocks are usually in dark situations, but other ageing processes occur. On turret clocks it is wise to scrape the paint surface to see if there is a different colour below. Looking underneath fixed items is also helpful.

Painted items like bell hammers,

To conserve, strip to bare metal and repaint. If possible use epoxy or two-part paints that will provide protection for decades.


cranks, motionworks, that are in poor condition and are in aggressive environments like belfries.

Spraying such paints is a process that must be done by a specialist.

Hand painting is better for the restorer since less likely to miss parts.

Hammereite and Rustoleum are commercial paints that are rust-resistant.

Painting: Choice of colours

The colour chosen should be as close to the original colour as possible.

Semi matt paints are the best, high gloss is a modern finish and looks too garish.

On external dials gloss paints are probably best for durability.

Do not use a ‘House Colour’ to do all work. Though identifying an individual or company, this is usually inappropriate.

Specialist paint suppliers can match paints very well.

Lacquer on brass sometimes comes off inplaces leaving a patchy appearance.

Over-lacquer and treat brass with microcrystalline wax.

Best to leave the situation as it is.

Lacquer on brass has come off in most places, brass underneath corroded.

Remove remaining lacquer with paint stripper and re-lacquer.

Some brightening of the brass is acceptable before lacquering.

Brass setting dial.

Most setting dials are brass. Hand-engraved ones should be carefully cleaned if necessary and lacquered.

Mid to late 19th century dials are usually deeply machine engraved.

Silvered setting dial patchy.

Consider leaving alone and treat with microcrystalline wax.

If the surface has not been lacquered, then rubbing with a paste of cream of tartar (tartaric acid) and salt, as used in the finishing process of silvering, may revive the surface.

Rubbing it with silvering compound will certainly revive the silvering and may be abrasive enough to remove remaining lacquer.

If lacquered, then this can be removed with paint stripper, but the stripper will probably affect the wax.

The legibility of any setting dial is important. There is no point conserving a dial if it cannot be read.

Silvered setting dial in poor condition where

Clean carefully using minimal abrasion and re-silver and lacquer.

Re-silvered is fraught with possible difficulties since silvered turret clock dials usually have


the chapters and minute are mostly illegible.

fine engraving like domestic clock dials. This may be damaged when the brass is prepared.

There is no problem with deeply–engraved dials.

Silvering setting dials; general comments.

Do not silver a dial unless there is evidence of it having been silvered originally.

Most turret clocks have brass setting dials which are lacquered. Some high quality 19th century

makers like Vulliamy and Paine silvered their setting dials, but generally silvering is the exception.

If a brass dial is suspected of having been silvered, check the back of the dial, in holes and under screw heads for traces of silvering.

Common RepairsCommon repairs are listed here, along with suggestions and recommendations.

RepairsItem Recommendation NotesGeneral Whilst repairs should not be obvious, is not

necessary to make them invisible. It helps the next repairer to see what bushes have been fitted.

Bushings Make the bush wall of minimal thickness, say 1mm to 2mm beyond the worn area.

Do not replace the whole bush unless it is very thin walled.

Bushes are most commonly needed on pallets, scape wheel, barrels and pin / cam wheels.

Anaerobic adhesives are good for securing bushes.

New suspension spring

Use good quality spring steel, make sure all edges are rounded, particularly the fixing holes. No sharp corners from which fatigue cracks can develop.

Some suspension springs made by Joyce and Whitehurst are thick springs ground down in the working area to the correct thickness. Replicating these is time consuming, an alternative is fabricated from thin stock with thick ends.

New springs can sometimes take a while to settle in, so the rate may vary.

Some early suspension springs are stiff and the clock rate my change considerably when a modern less stiff spring is fitted.

Grease the spring to prevent rust.

Resurface pallet pads

Pads are often detachable so can be resurfaced and then shimmed to return to the correct action.

Badly rutted dead-beat pallets can be slotted out

Pads must be highly polished and hardened so they are dead hard.

If the clock is running well be


and tool-steel pads turned to the correct radiusand soldered or secured with a retaining compound in place.

Laser welding can be used to build up pads.

very wary of improving the drops too much as it is only too easy to end up with too large an arc and insufficient weight to drive the hands.

Badly damagedor worn teeth.

Reverse wheel if possible.

Trepan off the band with the existing teeth and preserve with clock. Fit new annulus (ring) and cut new teeth.

New teeth may be fitted to brass wheels by dovetailing in a section of brass then profiling the tooth.

New teeth can be similarly fixed on cast iron wheels.

New ratchet teeth can be secured with a hex socket screw which is then filed down once fitted.

Make a new wheel is an option, but making an annulus can be a bit faster and it preserves most of the original wheel.

Teeth on cast iron wheels have been repaired in the past by fitting several pegs that are then profiled to shape. This is not a very elegant solution.

Worn pinions. Build up wear with weld and re-profile pinion. Sometime old pinions are nutted on and can be reversed.

Laser welding is a new technique that can give a very localised addition of metal.

Worn ratchet wheel and / or click for fly.

Do not repair, make a new one. A good ratchet and click is essential for the well-being of the clock. Failure can lead to extensive and expensive damage.

Loose fly friction spring.

Sometimes a click is not used but there is a circular friction spring. If the spring is cracked then replace, otherwise careful forming will return the required spring pressure.

As above.

Retaining pins. Fly assemblies are often retained by taper pins. If a taper pin is used, split or bend the end so it willnever fall out.

Alternatively use a modern split pin.

The fly coming off will lead to extensive damage.

Barrel clicks Dismantle where possible, clean and carefully inspect for cracks particularly at sharp corners.

Similarly inspect click springs.

Application of thread locking adhesive recommended on all screws and nuts concerning clicks and click springs.

The click and ratchet take the whole force of the driving weight. These components must be in A1 condition.

Barrel ratchet teeth

Must be in good condition. Re-profile if worn. Replace teeth if missing.

Make new ratchet wheel if many teeth are

As above


damaged / missing.

Notes on Thread Locking and RetainingHenkel Technologies produce ‘Loctite’ an internationally known family of locking compounds. These are anaerobic adhesives, they cure when air is excluded from the joint. Locking adhesives areextensively used in the automotive, aerospace and maintenance industries.

Loctite Grade Application222 Low strength adhesive for locking screws. Can be dismantled.243 Medium strength adhesive for locking nuts. Can be dismantled.603 High strength adhesive for permanently retaining parts. Low viscosity for filling small

gaps up to 0.1mm. Cannot be dismantled.638 High strength adhesive for permanently retaining parts. High viscosity for filling large

gaps up to 0.25mm. Cannot be dismantled.

Locking and retainer adhesives can be broken by heating components up to around 250°C.

Weight Lines Weight lines have a finite life and need to be changed when they show signs of wear or rust.

Weight LinesItem Recommendation NotesGeneral As a matter of safety do not hesitate to change a

line if there is any doubt as to its condition.

It is wise to get a Test Certificate / Certificate of conformance when purchasing steel line.

Lines are frequently changed through the life of a clock, there are no conservation issues here.

However, Vulliamy did occasionally use gut lines, so if you ever come across something unusual then preserve a sample.

Old soft iron wires are worth preserving a sample.

Wire line replacement

Replace the line if it:-Shows any sign of rust outside or inside.Is polished smooth.Has prickles.

Lines on passenger lifts have to be changed every 6 years.

Rope replacement

Replace the rope if it:Has dust inside it.Is frayed.

Rope is seldom used except on old historic clocks with wooden barrels.

Use pre-stretched synthetic rope.

Expect that pulleys will be worn and needing attention.

Pulley hangers, weight tie off points.

If there is any doubt, replace screw in eyes of uncertain security with eye bolts that go all the way through a beam. U bolts round a beam arean alternative.

Check the hangers and tie off points for safety e.g. the supporting wood for worm and rot.


Leading off work and Motionworks

Leading off work and MotionworksItem Recommendation NotesGeneralcomments on leading off work and motionworks.

Repair protective wooden boxes over motionworks and bevel gears.

If there are no protective boxes, then have some made.

At least 50% of turret clock stoppages can be traced to problems in the dials, motionworks and leading off work.

Fit of hands and balance.

Hands should ideally be a good fit on the squares.

The hands, particularly the minute hand, must be carefully balanced.

When re-assembling hands apply a little grease (copper loaded is excellent) to squares and hexagons to prevent handsbecoming jammed on with corrosion.

It is usual for the end of the minute hand nut to be closed to prevent water ingress. If not, then close with lead solder or resin.

A tiny amount of paint applied under the minute hand nut whenit is tightened will keep water out and prevent the nut from coming loose.

Oil holes.

One design fault often found in British turret clocks is the lack of facilities to oil the minute arbor at the outside end where it passes through the hour tube. This can result in the rusting of the minute arbor.

It is acceptable to drill a hole in the hour tube to facilitate lubrication and to fit an oiler cap or a clip like on a cycle hub. Make sure the swarf does not go inside the tube.

Where the bearing is impossible to get to due to a thick wall, an oiler tube can sometimes be fitted to take the oil to the end of the tube.

Care should be taken not to over-oil and cause stains down the dial

This is acceptable practice since it is good for the clock.

Badly rusted minute arbor, usually where it emerges from the hour tube just behind the minute hand collet.

Replace the complete arbor, or the end, with stainless steel.


Dials

DialsItem Recommendation NotesGeneral Due to their exposed position, dials are very

prone to weathering of the dial material itself, paint finish, the gilding, and the dial fixings.

Consult an architect where dial fixings involve the surrounding masonry. or where the masonry is in poor condition.

Some turret clocks do not have external dials; either the building could not afford a dial or its addition would disfigure the architecture.

Dials are of course the visible evidence of a clock and must be kept in good order and appearance.

There is no reason to keep an external dial in poor conditionon the grounds of preservation.

Where an old dial has been removed and is inside the building, this is in general left alone and not restored.

How dial is restored, in situ or remove the dial.

Dial restoration is best carried out by removing the dial and working on it in a warm dry environment.

Painting and gilding outside can only be done reliably in good weather.

In-situ dial restoration is sometimes obligatory for certain types of dials, e.g. very large dials or for stone ones that are part of the building structure.

Dial removal and replacement is a specialist job for a steeplejack or a clock company used to undertaking such work.

Removing the dial for restoration work will add to the cost of the dial restoration.

Wooden dials Where repairs are needed then a competent joiner should be employed using only hardwoods such as oak. In the case of limited decay, rot and worm can be consolidated using proprietary conservation materials such as Paraloid B72.

If the dial surface is too bad to be re-paintconsideration can be given to facing the boards with copper sheet, stainless steel or marine plywood.

Some wooden dials can be elaborate with monograms, carvings, figures, sundials etc. These need to be trusted to a woodworking specialist.

Old dials are usually made of wood, particularly the early 18th century diamond-shaped dials. Astonishingly these can survive very well and regular painting preserves the wood.

Copper dials Damage at the edge where many passing generations have drilled holes for fixings may be repaired with copper patches soft soldered to the dial.

Bullet dents can be easily beaten out once the dial has been removed.

Spun aluminium dials are modern newcomers that are now available.

Copper sheet is a common material for making dials, it is almost invariably beaten into a convex shape with a raised moulding round the edge to give it strength. Large dials are made of smaller sheets that are joined together using a comb joint and brazing.


Lead dials Seek specialist advice. Lead dials are fortunately rarely met. Paint does not adhere well to lead, and the lead flows over time which can present problems where the dial sags.

Cast-iron dials Cracks are sometimes found in the castings. These are often very old but if thought necessary, can be repaired by specialist welding or with stainless steel straps.

A skeleton dial that was cracked in many places may present safety problems. A copy in GRP is a good solution. An alternative is a copy in stainless steel, laser and plasma profiling services are widely available.

Where glazing is damaged, opal-coloured acrylic sheeting can be used.

Polycarbonate is a very strong plastic and is good where a high impact resistance is required, say where vandalism has often been encountered.

Opal glass was once difficult to find but isbecoming more available and specified more often by architects.

Cast-iron is a common material used for dials in the 19th century, generally the dial is a skeleton construction and may be glazed with opal glass.

Original opal glass is prone to staining, the result of a century or more of coal fires. This stain is often etched into the glass and cannot be practically removed.

Stone dials Stone dials should not be painted, but chapters and minute marks may be gilded.

Slate produces a very elegant appearance, but sometime the slate will crack. Specialist treatment from a stone mason is necessary.

Fibre glass (GRP) dials

It is unacceptable to replace a copper dial with a GRP dial on the basis of convenience, i.e. a new painted and gilded dial can be put up at the same time as the old dial is removed.

Where an old wooden dial is so decayed as to require a complete re-making, GRP can be used as an alternative to wood. The old dial can be used to make a mould.

Durability is the issue in this situation.

Glass fibre (GRP) is a material that has been used since the 1960s for making dials. It is light, durable and generally the best solution for new dials. GRP can suffer from corrosion, but not in the same way as metals do. Where the dial is self-coloured it can be subject to fading, chalking and loss of colour due to the action of UV in sunlight. Correct choice of gel coat resin with UV inhibitor when the dial was made will reduce fading and deterioration. Crazing can occur along with

cracking due to impact of stones or air gun pellets. Rubbing down the surface and making local repairs where necessary is all that is needed. If a dial is delaminating then that indicates


faulty manufacture and would generally need complete replacement.

Dial Painting The best way to preserve an old dial is by the application of an appropriate modern paint finish. These are highly durable and will last for many

years.

As an example, a cast-iron dial would be grit-blasted to remove the rust, hot sprayed with zinc to prevent rust, treated with an acid-etch primer, and then a two-part epoxy paint applied. These paints are usually toxic and demand the services of a specialist with the correct equipment. Some people prefer to brush on a special paint like Hammerite or Rustoleum, both of these can be applied to rusty surfaces and give a thick durable coat.

Copper dials are carefully cleaned down to the bare metal noting and recording any markings. An etch primer and suitable paint then follows. Again, a specialist painter can be used provided they are properly briefed on the job.

Gilding Gilding should be done with 24 or 23 ½ carat gold leaf.

Best to use 24 carat gold if the dial is near to the sea.

Dials should be gilded copying the original styleof chapters and minute marks.

Where a dial has been poorly repainted hiding the original figures, stripping the paint can reveal the original figures. If the chapters are very clumsy and obviously not appropriate, and if no original chapters can be found, then re-gilding with chapters in an authentic style is appropriate.

Never use gold paint, it does not last.

Expectation of a restored dial should be 25 years, but depends on locality.

Using commercially-available transfers will not replicate the original figures.

On copper dials it was a common practice to scratch the chapters onto the copper before repainting. However, where this has happened on several occasions, it may be difficult to identify what was really the original.

Dial fixings Dials should be re-fixed using only stainless steel or bronze fixings.

There are a wide range of stainless fixings including expanding bolts, studs that can be fixed into masonry with resin and coach screws that screw into plastic plugs..

The best way for heavy cast-iron dials is to bolt the dial all the way through the tower wall.

A point of particular concern is dial fixings. Many dials were installed in the last half of the 19th century, probably using four iron bolts into stone, brickwork or even into wooden blocks. With the passing of years these have mostly rusted away leaving dials in a dangerous position.


Where this is not possible, then studs may be fixed into the tower masonry using chemical anchors or special resins.

Cast iron dials are can be found to be cracked.

Masonry may be in poor condition.

If the dial fixings have not been checked recently they should be done so with some urgency. Rust stains on the wall are an indicator that attention is needed.

In bad cases the dial drops down a little and causes the hour tubeto bind.

Hands Hands in bad condition may be replaced provided they are in the same style and material as the original.

The use of ‘standard house style’ shaped hands as a quick replacement is unacceptable.

Hands are usually of copper, but can be occasionally bronze, wrought iron and even wood.

Bells and Bell hammer WorkBells and clocks have to coexist in towers, most often in churches. Any work to be carried out should consider the bells and the bellringers be consulted. Good relations are essential since it is so often the bellringers that wind the clock and provide the first line of care.

Bells may be specifically for the use of the clock, but in churches they are often used for ringing for services as well. The art and science of English change ringing means that the bell rotates in an almost complete circle to produce a full note. A bell is a very expensive item to repair or replace, great care must be taken with servicing and repairing bell hammers. A faulty bell hammer might cause a bell to crack, or damage to the wheel and bell fittings.

WARNINGDo not enter a belfry when the bells are ‘up’. The term ‘up’ refers to when the bells are standing with their mouths pointing up, a small push will set a bell swinging and it will crush whatever is in its path.

Bells and Bell Hammer WorkItem Recommendation NotesGeneral Bell wires, cranks and hammers are often very

neglected and poorly adjusted.Be aware that a considerable time may be needed to set up properly or refurbish hammers, wires and cranks.

Bell cranks Cranks must operate properly using the middle of the angular movement and not pulling obliquely, pivots should be kept in order to prevent slop and rubbing on frames or brackets

Wires should not rub each other or framing, long

Bell cranks are often very neglected there can however be much frictional wastage due to badly installed crank and hammer-work, this frequently causing so much unnecessary


runs should be supported by hanging wire eyes pivoting from a screw eye so that they swing as the wire moves. This prevents wasted movement.

All points of contact, e.g. S hooks and wire eyes,should have a smear of grease or oil.

loading that considerable reductions in driving weight can be achieved with a corresponding reduction in wear on the clock.

Sloppy pivots lose oil and collect contamination.

The same guidelines as given for hammers apply to bell cranks.

Wires When making replacements, 3 mm stainless steel wire is an alternative non-rusting material to galvanised wire.

Joints are to be made neatly; it pays to make a bending jig.

Joints and hooks to be lubricated with grease or oil.

Wire used for connecting bell hammers was traditionally galvanised 1/8 inch fencing wire and before that plain wrought iron wire. The same material was used for the S hooks that connect the wire to the hammers and cranks.

Bell hammers. If in poor condition, the best action is to remove the hammers, have them grit blasted, painted and repairs made to worn parts.

Often the check spring wears as does the hammer shaft on which the spring operates. This wear can be made up with weld, but welding broken check springs is rarely successful: install a new spring.

For long life, painting is best done by a specialist after grit blasting and zinc spraying then using an acid etch primer followed by a two-part epoxy paint.

Fixings of hammers and cranks are often loose leading to uncertain hammer action.

Considering the need to prevent damage to bells it is acceptable to replace plain bearings with self-aligning sealed roller plumber blocks and to use modern stainless bolts or coach screws to fix hammers to the bell frame.

Hammer check springs should be of an appropriate thickness, well fixed and adjusted to leave an adequate but not excessive distance between the head and the sound-bow.

The hammers of a quarter train should be carefully adjusted to produce an equal volume from each bell.

Belfries are usually only protected from the weather by louvres. This means that bell hammers are almost always badly corroded.

Hammer bearings can be in poor condition, they take a large impulse load every time the hammer is operated.

It is uncommon to find original hammers with wrought-iron heads. If encountered, these should carefully preserved.

Setting up bell hammers and cranks can take a long time.

The volume of sound produced by a bell is a combination of the bell, how far the hammer falls, its weight, the weight of the bell and strength of the check spring. Altering the check spring

clearance and how much the hammer lifts are the only things that can be altered.

Bell hammer The bell hammer must be held about 1/8” clear of Adjusting check springs can be


clearance and strike position on the bell.

the bell by the checkspring to allow the bell tosound properly.

The bell hammer must strike the bell on the soundbow; this is the convex curved section just above the mouth of the bell. Hammer faces are generally at about 45° in this position..

tricky; this is generally done by altering the packing under the check spring that is normallybolted down onto the hammer frame.

Bending check springs is difficult on account of their thickness; the use of a hydraulic tube bender makes the work easy.

Hammer pull-offs.

Hammer pull-off must be checked to make sure the hammer when pulled off, is clear of the bell.It must also be clear of the wheel, slider, stays,and the adjacent bell and all its fittings.

When the hammer is pulled off and the clock is striking, the hammer lifting lever on the clock must not be touched by the lifting pins or camsotherwise it may cause the pull off to becomeunhooked.

The pull-off is used by ringers to make sure the hammer is clear of the bell whilst it is being rung. If there was not a pull off then a swinging bell might be damaged by being struck by the clock hammer when the clock strikes.

There are generally separate pull offs for the striking and quarter striking, and another for a chime if one is installed.

Conversions, Alterations and Repairs

Conversions, Alterations and RepairsItem Recommendation NotesGeneral Turret conversions, alterations and repairs are all

part of the history of the clock installation.Retain as much as possible of the history.

Verge and foliot converted to anchor escapement and pendulum.

Frames for end-to-end train movements have been changed to side-by-side trains.

Thirty-hour clocks converted to eight day by adding a wheel in each train.

Do not convert back to original. All these modifications are part of the history of the clock, so there can be generally no justification in removing these.

Exceptions can be made where work is badly carried out e.g. aglaringly inappropriate hand on a setting dial, or a repair that is not fit for purpose.


Addition of an external dial.Dials converted to two hands.

Upgrade of an escapement, e.g. to deadbeat or gravity

Upgrade of a pendulum to compensation pendulum.

Re-siting of a clock resulting in changes to fixings and leading-off work.

Addition of a setting dial.Addition of striking or quarter trains

Addition of a chime.Addition of a setting dial on a 30 hour clock

Can still be done provided it is sensitive and appropriate and the frame is not drilled.

A practical item to facilitate setting outside dial.

Reinstatement of removed parts.

In the past, some automatic winders were badly installed; the barrels and great wheels were removed and discarded.

Re-installing the barrels and great wheels, when they still exist, would be the best practice.

Repairs General Repairs are necessary work that has been carried out to correct breakage or wear.

New scape wheels

Re-faced pallets

New train wheels

It is all part of the history of the clock. No need to try to hide work.

Better to retain original with the least invasive repair as replaced parts are often lost.


New wooden barrels

Re-bushing

Conservation“If it is not practical, then is it not conservation.” This little adage should be kept in mind when considering conservation. Conservation can be very simple, annual maintenance and the fitting of a case and covers to the clock and motionworks if they do not exist.

Invariably every piece of work must be carried out within some economic constraint. Ideally the person carrying out work will give a realistic estimate, and those commissioning the task will accept that if something is discovered during the work then a revision of pricing may be needed. In reality, organisations often want a job carried out at a fixed price; and sometimes, the lowest possible price. This is particularly true of government organisations.

If the old clock at Salisbury cathedral were discovered today, it would be conserved and left just as it was found so it would present a complete record of its history. In 1954 the clock was ‘restored’ and converted back to verge and foliot. At this period, there was not the feeling for conservation, so what was done then was done in the best spirit of that time. The work was done to an excellent standard and the clock’s operation has given pleasure to thousands of people who have visited the cathedral.

Today there would be no question of converting it back and erasing the various alterations and additions that the clock had experienced. If the need was to show what the old clock looked like, drawings and a model could be made along with a working example of the verge and foliot. For something as important as the Salisbury clock, a computer animation could show its original operation, or a copy made.

ConservationItem Recommendation NotesMaintenance Have the clock serviced annually. Essential.Cleanliness Make sure the clock case and clock room are

cleaned with a vacuum cleaner once a year.Why clean a clock and leave its environment dirty?

Clock Protection.

Make sure the clock case is in good repair and will not let dust in.

If there is no clock case then have one made.

This simple low-cost option will go a long way to conserve the clock.

Bevel gears and Motionworks.

Make sure the boxes that protect bevel gears, leading off work and motionworks are in good repair and will not let dust in.

If there are no boxes then have some made.

This simple low-cost option will go a long way to keep the clock running.

At least 50% of turret clock stoppages are caused by problems with the dials, leading off work, bevel gears and motionworks.

The most common stoppage is caused by dirt in the motionworks and leading off


work.

DocumentationAll restoration and repair work carried out on a turret clock should be recorded. A card hung in the clock case is fine to list periodic maintenance work, but anything else should be recorded with photographs and a written report which would be presented to the owner. The restorer needs to keep a copy since some organisations are not always good at filing such reports. Today the digital storage of information makes the lodging of a report in a county record office a distinct possibility.

Writing an article for a local newspaper or magazine is a good way to put information in the public domain. Another plan is to consider lodging a copy of the report with a local museum and the Antiquarian Horological Society’s turret clock database.

DocumentationItem Recommendation NotesReports A report should be made by the restorer /

repairer to document what was done to the clock installation.

The report level reflects the age and rarity of the clock concerned. The choice of report level is also likely to be affected by the body commissioning the work; a ‘Heritage’ type organisation is likely to want much more detail than a commercial one.

Customers need to be aware that there is a cost involved in preparing a report and taking photographs.

Report Basic Level

Details to be given of…

The initial condition of the clock.

A list of work carried out.

Photographs would be useful.

See above.

Report Full Level

Details to be given of…

The initial condition of the clock.

A plan of the restoration project plus an explanation of the reasoning behind the decisions taken.

A detailed list of work carried out.

Information on cleaning processes used.

Details such as materials used, paint makes, types and colour codes.

A complete set of photographs, to illustrate the report showing before and after conditions.

Close-ups of worn, damaged or replacement

See above.


parts to be included.Replacement parts

New parts should be stamped with the date and name or initials of the repairer.

Painting new parts a different colour may be useful technique where a historical point should be made

MaintenanceRegular maintenance is the best way to conserve a turret clock. Cleaning, lubrication and a check of key issues are the main activities.

MaintenanceItem Recommendation NotesFrequency Once a year for a standard clock.

Twice a year for a large clock, say with 4 dials, quarter striking and chime.

Cleaning Brush out all wheel teeth & pinions of the clock, bevel gears and motionworks.

Wipe off excess oil & dust.

Clean glass panels in clock case.

Clean inside of illuminated dials.Lubrication Lubricate all pivots on clock, leading off work,

bevel gears and motionworks.

Lubricate all pulleys and check the pulleys do not rub on the straps.

Lubricate clock escapement and ‘scape wheel teeth.

Lubricate hammer lifting levers and let-off levers.

Lubricate all bell cranks, wire ends and bell hammers.

Wheel teeth are not lubricated, but wrought iron wheel and pinions may be lightly lubricated.

Rattle arbors end to end to work oil in, taking weight off train whilst doing so

Do not forget to include clicks and great-wheel bore.

Automatic winders

Service autowinder unit.

Clean and lubricate roller chain.

Check the overwind switching operates correctly.

Servicing an autowinder unit may need specialist knowledge of that unit.

Safety Check Check clicks and click springs on barrels.

Check clicks and click springs on flys.

If new to the clock inspect the state of the weight stems as they can rust inside the weight cheeses.


Check for condition of weight lines.

Check for condition of weight line anchor points.

Check for condition of pulley anchor points.

Check for condition line termination on barrel and in roof.

Report any safety issues concerning access to the clock.

LubricantsConsider modern dry lubricants for roller chain.

OilsEvery clockmaker has their own pet ideas about oils.

A turret clock oil needs to lubricate, to be sticky enough to stay in place and to have as uniform a viscosity over a temperature range of -10ºC to 30ºC.

Slideway oil is specially formulated for use on machinery; one property is that it is sticky so it does not run away. This makes it a good commercially-available type of oil for turret clock use. Slideway oil comes in different viscosities that match those listed below.

Lubricating Oil Grades and ApplicationSAE ISO Use on small turret clocks Use on large turret clocks20 48 Escapement30 100 Wheel bearings Escapement40 150 Barrel bearings Wheel bearings50 220 Barrel bearings

Note:SAE gear oil has a different set of numbers; gear oil is intended for high-pressure, high-speed operation e.g. in car gearboxes and differentials. This is not suitable oil for turret clocks.

Synthetic oils like Moebius Microgliss D-5 are favoured by some. These are very expensive but do last a long time and stay in place.

In older worm / spur gearboxes SAE 30 / ISO 100 is a common lubricant.

GreasesCastrol CL is a good all purpose grease, it is slightly sticky and flows well, it is light brown in colour.This is water resistant and good for wire linkages, cranks and bell hammers.

Castrol LM is a good all purpose grease, it is more solid that CL, it is a light grey-brown in colour. Good for rubbing parts on clocks e.g. letting off levers.

Castrol Moly is a molybdenum based grease for high-load situations and is black in colour. Consider using on striking and quarter striking cams on large clocks.


Castrol Graphited grease loaded with graphite, it is black in colour. Consider using in the ends of hour tubes to seal against the ingress of water. If the grease dried out then there is still the lubricatingproperties of the graphite.

Copper loaded grease is used as an anti-seize compound; use on components when they are screwed together; the copper content makes disassembly easier even if the unit has been damp. Use on minute hand nuts, hour hand splines and bolts on bell hammers and bell cranks.

Automatic WindersAutomatic winders are used to do away with the necessity of manual winding. They are used where the access to a clock is difficult, where the effort of winding is very heavy, where a clock needs daily winding and when it is difficult to engage a person to do the winding. A frequently-met situation in churches is where bells are re-hung, or the church is re-ordered necessitating the repositioning of the clock. Often this has the attendant loss of weights and weight-chutes and the need for an automatic winder.

One auto-winder unit is needed for each of the trains, going striking and quarter striking, so a three-train clock will need three auto-winder units.

When a clock is manually wound any error in time would be corrected by the person doing the winding and so a clock is unlikely to be more than a minute out during a week. With an automatic winder, timekeeping errors can accrue to unacceptable limits over a month or so. Someone still needs to have responsibility for the clock and to make the necessary corrections. They will also have to put the clock back or forward for winter and summer time.

It must be remembered that a clock fitted with an auto-winder still needs proper regular maintenance as do the auto-winder units.

There are two main types of auto-winder in use, the Huygens endless chain and the epicyclic. In each type an electric motor re-winds a weight at regular intervals. In the event of a power cut there is normally sufficient reserve to run the clock for several hours. Roller chain is used to transmit power from the automatic winder to the clock. A sprocket is connected to an appropriate arbor in the clock. Usually the weight used can be much less than the normal driving weight for the clock, but of course it has to be wound up more frequently. Some automatic winders are mains-powered and generally have a power reserve of 6 to 24 hours. Others run from a lower voltage powered by a 12V or 24V battery. This can provide a reserve of several days or more that might be useful in outlying rural areas. However, the high integrity of the UK supply in almost all areas means that the maximum power down time is less than a couple of hours, exceptional weather conditions excluded.

In the Huygens endless chain version a weight hangs on endless roller chain. One side of the chain provides driving power to the clock; the other is rewound by an electric motor when the weight has descended to a certain level.

In the epicyclic type a differential gearbox is used. The box has two inputs and one output, the output drives the clock through a sprocket and roller chain. One input is a small weight on a line wound round a drum; the second input is from a motor. Periodically the motor rewinds the small weight after it has descended to a certain level.

The endless chain is a simpler construction, but the epicyclic is a more compact unit, is easier to install and can provide more power.

New Systems


New auto-winder systems should not be discounted on the grounds that they are new. Modern technology and electronics have the ability to create small reliable drive units that are appropriate to clocks.

ObsolescenceAll manufactured parts become obsolete at some time. Electronic components can have a very short time in production but a failing unit can often be replaced with a new unit performing the same function. With the spread of European and international standards, items like roller chain, sprockets, ball races

and motor sizes have become standardized. This means that replacements will hopefully be available for long into the future.

Motor-assisted winding Motor-assisted winding is a system that is occasionally encountered that retains the originality of the clock. In this method electric motors are used to wind the original weights via the winding squares. Generally the winding operation is initiated manually, but some systems are automatic. However, health and safety needs to be seriously considered in these systems along with the cost of powerful motor-gearbox assemblies.

The Installation of Automatic Winders The whole of an automatic winding system must be well organized from the installation through to the design of the winder units.

The installation of Automatic WindersItem Recommendation NotesGeneral No holes are to be drilled in the clock, no parts

to be removed to facilitate the installation.

Only clamping techniques are to be used to fix sprockets, switches etc to clocks.

In the past early auto winder installations often involved the removal of barrels and great wheels.

Winder position The auto-winder unit(s) should be mounted on a purpose-made steel or hard wood frame. Clock cases are frequently not rigid or strong enough to bear all the forces involved.

Remember that the unti has to be serviced, so it needs to be somewhere accessible.

Aesthetics The winder installation should look discreet with the winders not detracting from the appearance of the clock.

Don’t mount the winder inside the clock movement.

Electrical Connection

An electrical isolation switch should be provided close to the winder.

Enables the winder to be turned off for servicing.

Electrical Safety The clock should be provided with a separate electrical earth, this should be appropriately marked as a safety earth. Bonding can be made to any appropriate fixing on the clock frame, e.g. one of the bolts securing the clock to its bench.

It will be necessary to remove paint to ensure good contact: this is an acceptable procedure.

Access The clock case or clock room should be kept locked.

Only people familiar with the installation are able to gain access.

Safety Notice A safety notice ‘Machinery starts without Warning’ should be displayed.

Overwind Protection

Automatic winders must have an overwind switch that disables the winder in the event of limit switch malfunction.


Once activated, the switch MUST remain off until manually reset

Direct Electric Drive Going Train,The escapement is disabled the ‘scape wheel driven by a synchronous motor.

Not recommended. Might be a good solution where it leaves the original clock in position. Example a projecting drum clock above a shop where a fit and forget solution is needed.

Direct Electric Drive Striking Trains.The fly is removed, andelectric motor connected and operated by switches.

Not acceptable. Driving trains backwards is not always an advisable practice.

Connection of Automatic WindersConnecting the auto-winder to a clock is generally through roller chain and sprockets, though toothed rubber belts have been used successfully. The choice of where the drive is applied to the clock is of great importance since an incorrect choice can lead to damaging the clock.

Each clock is unique and there could be cases where these notes are difficult to implement. The best judgment of a competent clocks adviser and professional horologist should be sought.

Connection of Automatic WindersItem Recommendation NotesBest Choice (1) Where possible, the first choice is that the drive

should be on the barrel or great wheel arbor. In this manner, the clock continues to transmit power in the manner in which it was designed.

However, the drawback here is that for very large clocks, and some chimes and tune barrels, heavy weights are needed on the auto-winder.

By using gearboxes or lay-shafts and additional sprockets and chain, the use of very heavy weights can be avoided, but then the extra equipment takes up more space.

Best Choice (2)Going train:Second wheel

The sprocket may be fixed to the second wheel where the second wheel drives a centre wheel.

The barrel just idles.

Weight on autowinder is a reasonable size.

Going Train.When the great wheel has lifting pin(s) to set off the striking

The sprocket should be applied to the great wheel assembly.

If the drive is applied to the second wheel, then backlash may make the striking letting off inconsistent and if there is a drive to the hands, backlash will


make the hands show the time with less certainty

Going Train.Second wheel is the centre wheel

In this case the drive has to be on the great wheel assembly.

Where the second wheel is the centre wheel there is usually no easy way to connect a sprocket since the arbor can be turned to set the hands.

Putting the drive on the next wheel up in the train causes two problems. Firstly increased backlash makes the hands show the time with less certainty and the wear issue of a pinion driving a wheel needs to be considered.

Going TrainBarrel drives centre wheel and second wheel.

Where the great wheel drives both a centre wheel and a second wheel, the sprocket might be best applied to the great wheel assembly.

Hour Striking.Great wheel has lifting pins or cams.

The sprocket must be applied to the great wheel and barrel assembly.

The drive must not be attached to the second wheel.

However, the drawback here is that for very large clocks, and some carillons and tune barrels, heavy weights are needed on the auto-winder.

By using gearboxes or lay-shafts and additional sprockets and chain, the use of very heavy weights can be avoided, but then the extra equipment takes up more space.

There are examples where the drive has been connected to a second wheel arbor. The lantern pinion has caused significant wear to the great wheel.

Hour Striking.Second wheel has lifting pins or cams,

The sprocket may be applied to the second wheelarbor.

The great wheel assembly will just idle as when the clock strikes, minimal power is required to drive the great wheel.

Quarter striking Trains

Recommendation the same as for hour striking trains above.

The Council for the Care of Churches (CCC) issued a policy document in 2005 that states:-

1. Auto-winding should normally be applied to the barrel arbor.

2. In exceptional circumstances, and where this can be demonstrated to be for the benefit of the clock, auto-winding may be applied to the 2nd arbor, but never any higher in the train.


3. Auto-winding must never be applied above any mechanical activity in the train.

Winding jacks are never to be used as part of an auto-winding installation.

The clock must always remain completely intact and the installation be capable of removal so that it can be returned to manual winding.

This may be interpreted as….1 Autowinders are generally connected to the barrel arbor.

2 Autowinders may be connected to the second wheel in the cases of…a A large clock where the hammer lifting pins / cams are on the second wheel.b A clock where the hammer lifting pins / cams are on the second wheel and the great wheel and /

or the second wheel pinion are worn.

Existing Automatic WindersThere are many automatic winders already installed on turret clocks. These have been fitted by traditional companies, individual clockmakers and amateurs. The majority do good service but in time motors burn out, switches fail and parts wear necessitating maintenance and repair.

In general an older automatic winder can be serviced by a competent turret clock restorer. Spares may be available from the original maker, but if not, then there is nothing major that would stand in the way of a good restorer.

An issue often met is “should the complete old automatic winder be replaced with a new one?”. If the automatic winder is from a major manufacturer, or a standard design like a Huygens endless chain, then an old worn automatic winder can be replaced with a new one. If the automatic winder demonstrates some ingenious individual application then consideration should be given to keeping that winder. Clumsy and inappropriate winders can be removed.

If a new automatic winder is installed in a church to replace an old automatic winder, then a faculty application may be needed. This may require the automatic winder to be connected to the clock in a different place, generally the barrel arbor.

Night SilencingA night silencing device may be fitted to a turret clock so that the striking can be restricted to socially acceptable hours. A few Victorian clocks were fitted with night silencing as part of their design, but these are rare.

Most night silencers have one or more electric linear actuators that pull off the hammers to disable the striking; the period when the clock can strike is set by a time switch and chosen as required. The clock carries on doing its striking operation during the night but the hammers are inoperative. Silencers of this type are easy to fit, do not require any special fixings and are obviously a modern addition.

Night silencers have been designed to hold up the striking train fly for the night hours and then release itin the morning. For clocks with rack controlled striking this is not a satisfactory system since the rack tails gets behind the hour snail and wears a grove in the snail. For clocks with count wheel controlled striking the silent period has to be 12 hours so that the striking is kept in step.

Night SilencingItem Recommendation Notes


Pull off night silencing.

Acceptable. The easiest, neatest system.

Fly holding night silencing where striking is rack controlled.

Not acceptable. The rack tail is likely to get behind the snail and wear a grove.

Fly holding night silencing where striking is count wheel controlled.

Acceptable. Period of silencing has to be 12 hours.

Automatic Correctors or Automatic RegulatorsAn automatic corrector or regulator is a device used to ensure that a turret clock is always indicating the correct time. This device is very useful when an automatic winder has been fitted and the timekeeping may drift so the accumulated error after several weeks could be unacceptable. Automatic correctors are usually fitted when access to an automatically-wound clock is poor, or no trained staff are available to effect timekeeping changes.

Correctors for turret clocks have been used as long ago as the 1870s, but it is only recently that they are commercially available and easy to fit. All use mechanical means to correct the clock.

Some devices will stop a pendulum and restart it after an hour or 11 hours in order to effect the change between winter and summer time.

Automatic correctors are attractive since they offer a fit-and-forget solution. Remember the clock will still need servicing. It is an advantage to have someone visit a clock from time to time, for example to make corrections to a clock. In this way problems may be spotted before they develop; not only problems with the clock but also issues like the ingress of pigeons and water.

Automatic Correctors or Automatic RegulatorsItem Recommendation NotesInstallation. All systems should be fitted so that they can be

removed from the clock without any trace of the installation.

All commercial currently-available correctors use mechanical means to correct the pendulum. This means that they will have a finite life and will need specialist servicing.

Careful installation is needed to avoid the pendulum weaving.

Maintenance. Maintenance is still needed, probably on an annual basis. Mechanical parts will need to be cleaned and lubricated and periodically back-up batteries, if used, will have to be replaced before they reach the end of their life.

ChimesA chime is a turret-clock sized musical box that plays a tune or tunes at intervals and is usually let off by


the turret clock. Although an incorrect term, ‘carillon’ is widely used. A ‘chime’ or ‘tune barrel’ are better terms.

Since chimes had large weights that needed frequent winding, almost all chimes have been converted to automatic winding system or direct electric drive

ChimesItem Recommendation NotesCare. Most of what applies to turret clocks can be

applied to chimes.

Particular care needs to be taken with the bell cranks, wire and hammers, of which there will be a great number.

Automatic winders.

Automatic winding is best installed on the great wheel, barrel or on the tune barrel.

Do not install drive on second wheel or above.

Problems with direct drive are overcome.

Direct drive is installed.

Consider changing to automatic winding. Direct drive comprises an electric motor that is connected to the fly arbor and the fly is removed. The train is thus driven, but since the carillon was designed originally to drive from a barrel, then backlash often causes the tune timing to be erratic.

Lantern pinions may have beenused as drivers which is bad practice.

Guidelines for turret clock automatic winders apply.

Electric ClocksElectric turret clocks date back to the 1850s when Bain and Shepherd produced slave dials that were driven from a master clock. There were probably only a few original installations and hardly anything survives by these makers, so an early electric turret clock installation of this era must be preserved / conserved at all costs.

From around 1910 three systems of electric clocks were employed, the Gent Waiting Train, the Synchronome impulse and Gillett & Johnston’s half minute release. All use master clocks to provide a half-minute pulse used to drive the movement behind the dial. These still give good service and adopting the guidelines for mechanical clocks is the order of the day. Voltages used are usually low, so are not hazardous.

Beware of early electrics like battery chargers or time switches since they may have exposed terminals.

The advent of the National Grid around 1930 meant that synchronous clocks could be commercially produced. These soon were used in turret clocks.


Electric ClocksItem Recommendation NotesEarly electric clocks byShepherd,Bain,Jones,Hartnupp.

Must be conserved at all costs. Involve a National museum such as the Science Museum and the Antiquarian Horological Society.

Impulse clocks Systems are reliable if properly set up and maintained.

A good knowledge of electrical clock system is needed.

May need an electric clock specialist.

Consult standard works on electrical horology by Hope-Jones, Langman and Ball, Wise and Philpott.

The Antiquarian Horological Society has a specialist Electrical Horology Group.

Synchronous electric motors

Generally can be replaced if faulty.

If pre 1939, they are likely to be rare and should be conserved.

Many synchronous clocks were very well built and can be re-furbished e.g. the T1 movement by Smith of Derby.

Waiting Train clocks

Should be kept in the tower as a working item. These installations are very robust. Faults are usually mechanical.

Made by GentsMaster clocks Preserve electro-mechanical master clocks that

drive impulse dials, waiting trains and half-minute release movements.

Master clocks are simple and can easily be serviced by a knowledgeable person.

Common makers are GentsSynchronomeGillett & Johnston

Batteries, battery chargers etc associated with master clocks

Replace as necessary with modern equipment. Preserve old charger in tower.

Old transformers likely to have poor insulation.

Half-minute release clocks

Should be kept in the tower as a working item. The clock train is released every half minute. Has an integral auto winder. Used to drive very large dials.

Electro mechanical strike and

Should be preserved in the tower as a working item.

Usually made by Smith of Derbybut also made by Synchronome, Gent and Gillett & Johnston.


quarter trains.Faults almost always are in the switching, battery, contactor or incorrect setup.

Modern electronic clocks

Lifetime limited by component obsolescence.

Replace if faulty.

A modern electronic installation employs a master clock that derives it time signal from radio transmissions.

The dial is driven by an electronic stepper motor, or switched synchronous motor.Motionwork is usually integral with the stepper motor assembly.

Striking is achieved by an electromagnetic hammer and the controller can be set for night silencing as required.

Risk Assessment Check SheetCheck lists are provided of hazards that may be experienced. This ‘negative check list’ is divided into the principal areas that concern a turret clock. These lists may not be exhaustive.

At all times the responsibility of the turret clock restorer is for their own safety, the safety of their colleagues, the public at large, the clock and the building the clock is in.

AccessThis refers to access to the clock as reasonably needed by the clock winder, or persons going to make adjustments to the clock.

Access Safety IssuesHazard Tick if a problemWorn stone steps.Dusty / dirty / slippery steps.No hand rope / rail.Wooden ladders in poor condition, missing or damaged rungs.Vertical ladders.Unsecured ladders.Trap door that can fall on head.Poor / no lighting.Wormed flooring.Holes in floor.Unprotected holes for weights.Raised platform for clockwinder with no rails / protection.Exposed electric wiring / connectors.Bird droppings & nesting materials:- slippery, health hazards of fleas and respiratory problems, corrosive to metalwork, fire risk.


Weight LinesMany clocks are driven by weights that range from around 50lbs to as much as half a ton. The weight lines are made of steel wire, though sometimes rope is encountered. The free end of the line is attached to the top of the weight shaft, often by screw eyes or U bolts. Often weights are enclosed in a shaft, but not always.

Weight LinesHazard Tick if a problemRusty steel lines.Lines that are polished smooth.Lines with prickles on them.Lines more than 10 years old.Doubtful line attachment... e.g. just a knot.Wormed / rotten supporting beams.Unknown condition of screwed-in eyes.Rusty lines particularly near attachments.Line attachment points inaccessible.Fibre ropes in poor condition.

WeightsThe reality is that over the last 200 years the number of fatalities directly due to a turret clock is still in single figures. Excluded from this number are secondary causes such as heart attacks and falls whist climbing church towers.

Falling weights due to line breakage cause significant damage. In falling a weight could cause other weights to follow, it could break out of weight chute, go through floors and injure people nearby.

Some clock installations have a box of sand or broken bricks at the bottom of the weight shaft to absorb the energy of a falling weight. However, weights do not always fall straight.

WeightsHazard Tick if a problemRusted centre stem.Cheeses that could fall off.Bottom of weight shaft used for cupboard space / electric meters, fuse boxes.Public able to walk underneath weights.No access for clockmaker to bottom of weight shaft.In the event of a line failure, what would happen to the weights?

DialsMany dials were installed in the Victorian era and now their fixings are corroded. Inspection really needs access by scaffolding or a steeplejack. However, some idea may be gained by inspection with binoculars or telescope.

If scaffolding is up the tower, get a turret clockmaker to remove the hands and service the motionwork. Don’t ask them to do this the day before the scaffolding is to be taken down!

Inaccessible dials are normally accessed by trained persons who use abseiling techniques.


DialsHazard Tick if a problemRusted fixing bolts.Rusted fixing staples.Fixing bolts in rotten / wormed wood blocks.Fixing bolts in decayed stonework.Broken glass in illuminated dials.Cracked cast-iron dials.

Bells and hammersThe bell hammers are definitely part of a clock installation. So often these are forgotten and in poor states. Faulty hammers can cause much damage to a swinging bell and its wheel.

Bell HammersHazard Tick if a problemFixing of hammers and cranks loose.Check springs badly adjusted allowing hammer head to rest on bell.Ringers’ clock hammer pull-offs using old rope, rusty wire.

Mobile phone transmittersA new hazard to the turret clock repairer is the mobile phone transmitter. These transmitters are being increasingly installed in church towers that offer space for equipment and a good height for aerials. Churches often welcome these since they provide a good source of income. Radiation from transmitting aerials is a hazard and one that cannot be seen. There should be no appreciable radiation inside the tower, but if a dial had to be accessed from outside then checking with the transmitter operator and church authorities is advisable before commencing work.

Phone installations take up quite a bit of space, if possible the clockmaker should be consulted to make sure that the clock does not interfere with the installation and vice versa.

FacultiesThe Church of England has a control system, the Faculty Jurisdiction that is roughly equivalent to secular planning law, though control extends to a greater level of detail than with a secular building. Any work to a church clock, other than maintenance, basic repairs, or replacement of wire lines, auto-winder motors and switches, requires a faculty. Faculties are granted by the Chancellor of the diocese (a legal officer) who is advised by the Diocesan Advisery Committee (DAC). Most dioceses have a specialist clocks adviser, who advises the Diocesan Advisery Committee. The adviser is available to visit and help parishes, and discuss proposed work with the clock restorer. No work should commence until a faculty is granted.

Faculty Jurisdiction applies to all contents of a church, even if the ownership of the item lies elsewhere. Faculty Jurisdiction therefore applies in the common case where the local council owns the church

clock.

Beyond Economic RepairThe statement “The clock is beyond economic repair” is one that can be misused. The strict meaning isthat the repairer has given a quotation or estimate, and the customer has decided that the expenditure involved is beyond their current budget.


Beyond economic repair does not necessarily mean that the clock is a write off.

The term has been used by repairers who do not want to undertake the required work, who are unable to undertake the required work for whatever reason, or who want to supply a simple more profitable solution. Similarly the term has been used by owners or carers who find a mechanical clock not to their liking or convenience and want a get out clause to justify their decision.

In the event of a repairer using the unqualified broad statement “The clock is beyond economic repair” then further advice from knowledgeable persons should be sought, e.g. the Diocesan Clocks Adviser, Quotations from other repairers should be obtained.

Almost all clocks are repairable at a cost. A commonly encountered flat bed clock that had been in a tower fire might have a cracked frame and partially melted wheels. It is unlikely that to make a new frame and wheels would be a solution that is either economic or desirable on conservation grounds. For an unusual flat-bed clock in a similar state of damage, then perhaps the insurance cover might extend to the required repairs. An ancient wrought-iron clock in a comparable fire might only need a bit of straightening, new bushes and replacement wooden barrels.

Similarly, to be told the clock “Is of no value” should be questioned straight away. Turret clocks have an antique value; as ever with an antique it is worth what someone is willing to pay for it, but the same clock in different auctions could realize widely differing prices. Even so, several hundreds of pounds are involved which is not a trivial amount.

The Future for Retired ClocksIn the event of a clock being retired a suitable home for it should be found. Churches often put old clocks on display in a suitable part of the nave. A clock as an occasionally working exhibit generates public interest. The downside of this can be that what starts as a proud exhibit cared for by the parishioners can end up as an uncared for dusty piece of machinery and a nuisance to succeeding parishioners. The clock is then at greater long-term risk. On a preservation basis the best place for a church clock is to be left up the church tower where it once operated.

If a clock is donated to a museum, it is best to make such an arrangement as a long-term loan. Museums are unable to put all items on display, so the donor would need to understand any arrangements for displaying the clock. Museums are not secure depositories of artefacts. Private museums can be broken up when the owner dies, retires or changes their collecting whim. Public museums are not immune to problems as local authorities and central government change policies. Funding is often a key issue and museums seem to be in favour having fewer artefacts on display.

A turret clock preserved in a museum may be run as a working exhibit. The museum would need to make sure the weights are safe and also the fly, when it runs, cannot hurt anyone.

Choosing a Turret Clock RestorerThere are around some 30 plus individuals or companies in the UK that deal regularly with turret clocks. Each one has a particular approach and there is room for the one-man-band, through the small company to the large organization. There are four main features of a good restorer:1 They have a passion for the historical and technical side of turret clocks2 They have a record of satisfied customers3 They provide good value. 4 They are technically competent.


When a quotation is requested, these can only be compared if they are based on the same requirements. Sometimes, the requirement is not obvious and restorers will each come up with different proposals

and suggestions.

It is worth comparing the warranty offered and any applicable call-out charges. Beware of phrases like ‘If additional faults are found these will be charged…’ It can be certainly difficult to see a crack in a cast iron wheel when it is in a clock and covered with oil and grime. However, the run of the mill repairs should be covered by the quotation. Common exclusions in quotations that are quite reasonableinclude building and carpentry work, the installation of electrical supplies for automatic winders and lighting.

Qualifications for Turret Clock RestorersBHIThe British Horological Institute runs exams in horology. These are general, and now the final grades specialise in clocks or watches. There is no specific examination for turret clock work yet.

The BHI has a list of people who are professionally qualified to their standards, i.e. they are technically qualified and have a proven track record. Some of these professionals do turret clock work. A clockmaker who specialises in domestic clocks may not have the specialist knowledge to work on a turret clock.

BHI member grades are as follows…FBHI Fellow BHI. A qualified member with extensive experience.MBHI Member BHI. A qualified member with experience.Grad BHI Graduate BHI. A member who has qualified through exam but has insufficient

experience to be an MBHI.CMBHI Craft Member BHI. An older grade indicating experience without qualification.

Associate Members are not allowed to use their membership of the BHI to imply any level of competence.

Not everyone involved in turret clock work is a member of the BHI.

PACRThe Professional Accreditation of Conservator-Restorers (PACR) is an assessment scheme owned by the Institute of Conservation (ICON). PACR enables qualified and experienced practitioners in all conservation disciplines to achieve Accredited Conservator-Restorer (ACR) status; essential for inclusion in the Conservation Register. The PACR is a relatively new organization and their web sitelists only a few persons who do turret clock work.

Not everyone involved in turret clock work is an Accredited Conservator-Restorer..

Customer ExpectationIt is good business expectation to set customer and public expectation for a particular job. The sort of issues involved are likely to be: the time the clock is out of operation, the sort of accuracy expected when the clock is running and whether the clock will strike. Stopped clocks are traditionally left with the dials set at 12 o’clock.

Value Added Tax (VAT)The following notes give an outline, for more details see the HM Revenue and Customs booklet 708


Buildings and Construction, available on the HMRC website (www.hmrc.gov.uk).

Two issues arise when a VAT registered business does work on a turret clock- does VAT have to be charged on the invoice, or can it be zero rated?- if zero rating does not apply, can the VAT charged be recovered?

Zero ratingThere are two occasions when work on a clock can be zero rated, i.e. no VAT is charged and the business recovers any VAT on inputs such as materials.- where the work is in connection with the construction of a new dwelling or other residential or

charitable building – this will be very rare- where the work is an approved alteration of a protected building

A protected building means a listed building, or ancient monument, which is a dwelling or is a residential or charitable building (for example an old people’s home or a church). Approved means listed building consent or its equivalent (a faculty in the case of a church) has been obtained.

It is up to the business to issue an invoice showing the work as zero rated. Before doing so, the following evidence must be held, usually in the form of a photocopy on file- confirmation that the building is listed- confirmation that the alteration is approved- if it is not a dwelling but is a residential or charitable building, a certificate from the owner in the

form set out in booklet 708.

Even with all of the above, it is still up to the business to be sure that what is being done is an alteration, not a repair.

Any other work (all repairs, and any work on non listed buildings) is VATable. This will usually be at the standard rate (17.5%). There might be an occasion when a clock forms part of a house which is undergoing a qualifying refurbishment, when the reduced rate (5%) will apply.

Recovery of VATIf VAT is correctly charged there are two possibilities for recovery

If the building is owned by a business, then depending on the VAT status of the business, it may be recoverable by the business as input tax.

If the building is a listed place of worship, it can be recovered by obtaining a grant equal to the VAT from the Listed Places of Worship Scheme (www.lpwscheme.org.uk). Until 2006 this scheme did not cover clock repairs, but it now does so.

If VAT has been incorrectly charged (because the work should have been zero rated) then the business must be asked to amend the invoice or issue a credit note.

OrganisationsAntiquarian Horological Society (AHS)The AHS is a learned body dedicated to the widening and dissemination of historical horological knowledge. It publishes a quarterly journal and books, and has a library. There is a specialist Turret Clock Group and also an Electrical Horology Group.

AHSNew House


TicehurstEast SussexTN5 7AL01580 200155email [email protected]

AHS members are not allowed to use their membership to promote their business.

British Horological Institute (BHI)The BHI is a professional horological body, about a third of its members are professional horologists. The BHI publishes a monthly magazine, has a library, good collection of turret clocks and runs a wide variety of training courses including turret clock restoration.

BHIUpton HallUptonNewarkNotts NG23 5TE01636 813795email [email protected]

Council for the Care of Churches (CCC)The CCC is a constituent council of the General Synod of the Church of England and one of its duties is to advise Anglican churches on the care of the contents of churches. Specialist committees advise on monuments, stained glass, wall paintings, metal work, organs, bells and clocks. The Clocks Committee can award grants towards historic clock conservation.

Council for the Care of ChurchesChurch HouseGreat Smith StreetLondon SW1P 3NZ020 7898 1866email [email protected]

The Turret Clock DatabaseThe Turret Clock Group of the Antiquarian Horological Society is building a database of turret clocks. Information in the database is intended to help restorers when similar clocks need to be compared. It is also intended that the database will provide a base for historical research.

A survey form that may be photocopied is contained in ‘The Turret Clock Keeper’s Handbook’.

Bibliography.The Turret Clock Keeper’s HandbookChris McKayAntiquarian Horological Society 1998.

Also available as an e-book. Download fromwww.homepages.tesco.net.chris.mckay

http://www.bhi.co.uk

mailto:[email protected]

http://www.churchcare.co.uk


FINIS


Documents

Turret Clock Guidelines