Two Centuries of Costume in America From 1700 to 1820 - Alice M Earle 1903 - Volume 1

8/20/2019 Two Centuries of Costume in America From 1700 to 1820 - Alice M Earle 1903 - Volume 1
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Two
Centuries
of
Costume
in
America
Madam
Padishal
and
Child.
rights
reserved
Smith
Co.
Norwood,
Mass.,
U.S.A.
pray
for
him.
GEORGE
WITHER,
1625.
371
vii
trooping
scarf.
This
portrait
was
painted
by
Rembrandt.
1633.
He
drew
up
for
the
colonists,
one
of
Lord
Villiers,
Viscount
Grandison.
of
Robert
Livingstone.
The
curiously
plaited
widow's
cap
can
be
seen
under
her
hood.
Fine Arts.
;
curiously
slashed
buff-coat
worn
by
Sir
Philip
Sidney.
Bond,
of
Cambridge,
Mass.
KING
CARTER
IN
YOUTH
facing
212
Browne
of
Salem,
Mass.
the
only
varying
detail.
INFANT'S
CAP
279
Tambour
work,
1790.
ELEANOR
FOSTER
facing
280
Born,
1746.
She
married
was
painted
by
Blackburn.
It
is
now
in
the
Walker
Art
Gallery,
at
Bowdoin
College,
Brunswick,
Me.
Longeuil,
Can.
A
Maryland
gentleman
of
wealth
and
position.
HERBERT
WESTPHALING
352
Bishop
of
Hereford,
Eng.
Hudson,
N.Y.
SLIPPERS,
1810
387
Owned
by
author.
of
jagges
and
changes
of
colours.
''Chronicles,
HOLINSHED,
1578.
VOL.
I
B
young
folk
in
tableau
and
and
is
brown
again.
Endicott.
we
have
court
records
showing
trials
no
Puritan
settlers,
and
in-
different
to
or
ignorant
of
historical
facts,
that
in
a
new
individual
and
general
wel-
fare
of
the
community.
Eagerly
did
the
settlers
seek
every
year,
every
season,
by
every
incoming
ship,
by
every
traveller,
to
learn
the
changes
of
fash-
French
governor's
stay
with
an
of
damask
a
granddaugh-
gentlewoman
of
of
the
Dutch
in
New
Nether-
land
were
in
1614;
while
Virginia,
named
for
Eliza-
Philip
Stubbes,
to
and
also
his
I
speak
of
excesse
of
Apparel
be
permitted
willingly.
ether,
another
planet,
VOL.
I
C
ample
corroborative
proof.
He
Sir Richard Saltonstall.
is
recorded.
In
spite
of
all
the
portrait
of
Sir
Walter
Raleigh.
He
was
a
hero
and
a
scholar,
but
he
was
also
a
courtier;
and
of
a
court,
too,
where
every
court-attendant
bethink
himself
much
laces,
em-
wonder-
handsome,
and
the
later
plain-spoken
details
to
the
judgment
of
the
reader.
Certainly
both
statements
cannot
be
and
sashes
and
knots,
his
great
shoe-roses,
,14,000
be-
sides
a
great
a fine
he
^trfrnd*
russet,
purple,
French
green,
ginger-lyne,
deere
colour,
orange
colour.
Of
Stockings
about
13^.
a
pair.
I
Pair
knit
Stockings
about
2s.
\d.
a
pair.
also
full,
yes,
gener-
ous
for
the
as
to
their
mode
in
dress
were
taking
place.
The
ancient
gown
had
just
been
abandoned
for
doublet
and
long
:
at
the
top
two
yards
wide
and
edged
with
points
or
eyelet
holes
by
which
they
were
made
fast
to
the
girdle
or
bag-
breeches.
Sometimes
they
were
allowed
to
bag
they
might
well
have
been
decried
as
VOL,
I
D
print
of
his
day,
which
represents
Cromwell
dissolving
preserved
in
England
:
The
hair
covers
his
ear
and
Sir
William
Waller.
?
Roundhead,
with
his
light
having
monopoly
in
1641,
and
his
dress
was
simply
that
of
any
dull,
uninterest-
ing,
commonplace,
and
common
Englishman
of
his
day.
devil
were
Reverend
Cotton
Mather.
any
misbecoming
bravery
in
be
exempt
from
wearing
to the
;
curled
loosely
in
the
neck,
and
was
rarely,
I
think,
powdered.
costume
is
fully
depicted
for
us.
I E
and
attempt
at
restraint
of
5
1
;
I'le warrant.
and
Madam
Johnson
certainly
had
for
a
new
pair
of
India-
plainly
called
abominable
and
loathsome/'
in
his
letter
to
the
third
verse
of
the
third
chapter
of
Jeremiah
made
the
parson
call
;
bed at
not
disrupt
and
disband
hereafter.
in
Virginia,
but
in
Connecticut
and
Massachusetts
both
men
and
women
were
fined.
In
1676,
in
Northampton,
thirty-six
young
women
at
one
time
were
brought
The
Tub-preacher.
he
could
wear
in
embroideries
not
more
than
half
an
ounce
of
of
highest
im-
pertinence
and
presumption
for
kings
and
rulers
to
tuft
or
lock.
Queen
Elizabeth
stood
no
nonsense
in
these
VOL.
I
F
was
really
unjust.
Solomon
Stoddard
preached
on
the
Intol-
erable
Pride
in
the
Plantations
in
Clothes
and
Hair,
Rebecca
Rawson.
meetings
who
came
in
the
Mayflower
or
in
the
first
ships
to
the
Massa-
Puri-
:
Mrs. Clark.
existence where
Elizabeth
Paddy
Wensley.
the
face
for
sure
'tis
very
ugly.
The
pictuer
is
very
ill-favourede,
a
tradition
of
youth
married
them.
Lastly,
our
Mrs.
Simeon
Stoddard,
triumphing
over
death
and
this
galli-
maufry
of
Boston
widows,
took
a
fourth
hus-
band,
the
richest
merchant
in
town,
Samuel
Shrimpton.
Having
had
in
all
four
husbands
of
for
the
Head
and
Peak.
The
roll
and
peak
were
part
of
a
cap.
Mrs.
Simeon
Stoddard.
fashions
and
wore
them
bit.
It
was
sometimes
made
of
gold
and
silver
thread.
Parchment
lace
was
a
favorite
lace
of
Mary,
Queen
by
an
unknown
artist,
and
is
simply
labelled
horse-
the
or
woman
shall
VOL.
I
G
are
clogged
with
bush-
of
them
he
gives
drawings
of
the
sleeve
which
is
found
of
fashion,
Ninon
de
1'Enclos.
neck,
and
similar
they
walked
abreast.
If
a
woman's
sleeves
another
sent
a
barrel
of
cider
vinegar.
Clothes
in
small
lots
were
constantly
being
bought
and
sold
on
a
venture.
From
London,
in
Novem-
Second,
they
give
so
little
marked
detail
or
even
associated
evidence
is
gained
from
it.
I
had
a
baffled
thought
after
examining
it
that
I
knew
less
New
Year's
gifts
were
also,
strayt-
bodyed
gowns,
trayn-gowns,
waist-robes,
night
rayls,
shoulder
cloaks,
inner
sleeves,
round
kirtles.
She
also
had
nightgowns
and
jackets,
and
underwear,
hose,
and
various
forms
of
foot-gear.
for
his
wife.
He
had
bought
the
blue
bayes
for
this
garment
in
two
pieces,
and
he
could
not
decide
2
To
i
Douzen
and
^4
of
silver
buttons .
i
6
To
Thread
4
man,
and
was
of
double
thickness
like
a
man's.
It
might
be
sleeve-
fine
wrought
silk
Taffeetie
at
the
least,
and
fringed
about
Bravely,
and
What
if
too
long
with
a
false
gathering.
and
so
to
my
office
to
my
accounts.
Costumes
of
Englishwomen
of
the
Seventeenth
Century,
Delight
If
none
(besides
our
husbands)
see
that
Sight
The
Gossipping
Wives
Complaint,
1611
(circa).
VOL.
I
H
caul
or
kail,
chatto
or
shadow,
shabbaroon
or
chaperone,
have
come
to
us
through
these
poor
struggling
gentlemen.
99
9
Three
black
love-hoods
5
hanging
from
these
horns.
Cornets
and
corneted
caps
are
often
in
Dutch
inventories
in
early
New
York.
And
occasionally
in
the
simply
as
a
woman's
gown.
Randle
Holme
says,
rather
vaguely,
that
it
is
a
short
jacket
for
women's
wear
:
Mrs.
Magdalen
Beekman.
a
lady
was
in
those
days
her
only
the
Dutch
ships
were
in;
that
an
Sent
to
Virginny
from
England.
guished
for
bravery.
This
was
through
a
law
passed
by
the
British
government
that
all
who
enlisted
in
military
service
in
the
colonies
were
released
by
that
act
from
further
bondage.
parts,
who
had
been
ambassa-
dor
to
Rhode
Island,
a
ship-owner,
and
man
of
time.
It
lace,
and
several
rich
handkerchiefs
completed
a
gay
costume
to
which
en
silk
stockings
gave
an
additional
touch
of
VOL.
I
I
:
pair
of
gloves,
when
unknown.
Each
insignia.
Though
I
could
decipher
the
bold
initials,
cut
in
openwork,
I
could
judge
little
by
the
colorless
was
made
by
which
an
oblong
brass
badge
could
be
cut,
and
Bacon
in
Boston,
and
Robert
Coles
in
Roxbury,
in
Hall's
Chronicles
of
the
Pageants
and
Progress
of
the
English
Kings
ample
reference
to
similar
letters,
but
not
as
pauper's
badges.
Indeed,
in
defiance
or
in
satire,
in
remorse,
or
in
revenge,
or
in
humble
and
grateful
recognition
shown.
In
the
original
of
this
portrait
of
Pocahontas,
the
heavy,
sombre
effect
is
Pocahontas.
for
ye
Juell
and
many
were
given
to
her
as
New
Year's
gifts
or
other
tokens,
one
by
Sir
Francis
Drake.
This
makes
me
believe
that
they
were
a
prodigious
interest
felt
in
England
for
the
American
;
made
of
carefully
dressed
skins,
chestnut
colored
hair.
was
pierced
along
the
entire
outer
edge
and
filled
with
long
drops,
a
fringe
of
coral,
gold,
and
pearl.
The
wives
of
Powhatan
wore
triple
strings
of
great
pearls
close
around
their
throats,
and
a
long
string
over
one
I K
River,
where
they
prospered
beyond
belief.
On
the
arrival
Anne
Turner.
of
the
friendship
she
has
shown
me
as
well
her
three
chil-
Chaplain
Bosomworth,
a
parson
of
much
pomposity
and
ambition,
and
of
liberal
education
without
a
lib-
eral
brain.
He
had
had
a
goodly
grant
of
lands
their
answers
were
very
trifling
and
very
the
Indians
were
fed,
and
parleyed
with,
and
rea-
soned
with,
and
explained
to.
At
last
Mary's
'
barbarian
kin,
but
from
an
English
gentleman
a
Christian
priest.
Mar
gent
The
Simple
Cobbler
of
Agawam,
J.
WARD,
1713.
im-
agination,
be
deemed
equivalent
to
what
we
now
term
News.
139
custodians.
any
Londoner,
in
the
six
married
daughters
by
two
or
three
previous
marriages.
He
died
in
Boston
in
1678.
A
triangle
of
mutual
helpfulness
and
prosperity
was
formed
by
England,
New
England,
and
the
Dame.
the
few
good
houses,
the
small
amount
of
tilled
land,
the
was
The
Plague.

as
the
governor's
wife
that
the
Simple
Cobbler
VOL.
I
L
with
it.
There
were
also
intimate
personal
considerations
which
would
apparently
render
so
luxurious
a
ward-
Penelope
Winslow.
is
a
frequent
item,
and
to
my
delight
harvest
queen
And
yet
thou
black
England
mind
in
regard
to
the
latest
fashions.
I
cannot
to-day
con-
ceive
why
any
woman,
young
or
old,
could
have
drawing-
probably
covered
Madam
Symonds's
head
heavily
and
fully,
woman,
I
believe,
to
that
as
worked
by
the
maker.
Another
petticoat
has
a
Exchange
to
buy
a
Vizard
for
my
wife.
Soon
he
added
a
they
may
rather
be
called
inuisories)
wherewith
they
couer
all
their
faces,
hauing
Blue
Brocade
Gown
and
Quilted
Satin
Petticoat.
embroidered
boddice.
cloaks
appear

died
of
it.
The
Gulls
Hornbook,
ANDREW
DEKKER,
1609.
VOL.
I
M
163
slight
difference
in
A
Plain
Jerkin.
the western wilderness.
:
A Doublet.
wear.
The
welts
or
wings
named
in
the
early
sumptu-
The old
=lKe
i'3.l6
1
33
more
than
a
The
man's
doublet
did
not
ever
have
long,
hanging
;
up
between
the
panes.
It
was
necessarily
a
costly
dress.
from
constant,
vio-
John
Lilburne.
of
meane
condition,
education
and
calling
should
take
upon
them
the
garbe
of
artist
by
another,
and
a
very
fine
one,
too.
Another
garment,
which
is
constantly
named
in
lists
of
clothing,
was
the
cassock.
Steevens
says
a
the
rest.
VOL.
I
N
garment.
to
amend,
vnder
the arme
print,
which
The
English
Antick.
;
masculine
vanity,
swaggering
along
well-chosen
colours
of
red,
orange,
and
blew,
of
well-gummed
satin,
which
augured
a
happy
fancy.
mas-
querade
Indians
gowns,
or
banyans,
were
for
a
century
George
I.
all
black
and
white,
the
black
cassock
being
close
to
as
allied
in
usage
to
that
unutterable
contraction,
pants.
But
Arlington
it
is
shown
on
this
page.
This
in
a
skirmish
in
Ireland
present.
Of
course
the
king
changed
his
dress
many
times
after
this
solemn
assumption
of
a
lifelong
garment.
of
Albemarle,
1670.
was
almost
always
kit-
upper
arm,
over
the
other
fine
dress.
The
gentlemen
wear
a
cassock,
or
coat,
Earl
of
Southampton.
on
till
the
last
loop
was
fastened
to
the
breeches
by
buckle
and
strap
or
large
single
button.
From
these
loops
were
developed
frogs
and
loops.
buttonholes
on
his
doublet.
two
buttons.
VOL.
I
O
Water
Poet,
1640.
A
Bowdoin
Portrait.
a
firm
neck-binding.
This
carefully
made
ruff
was
starched
with
good
English
or
Dutch
starch;
fluted
with
setting
197
their
ruffes
well,
whiche,
mode
which
has
succeeded
the
cumber-
of
the
Puri-
tans
is
shown
in
this
portrait
of
William
Pyncheon,
which
is
dated
1657.
shorten
names
should
wear
a
small
band.
Neither
Reverend
Jonathan
Edwards.
House
of
Commons,
is
in
a
beautiful
Cavalier
collar
with
straight
lace
edges.
There
are
a
score
more,
equally
indifferent
to
rule.
women's wear.
Captain
George
Curwen.
that
nine
gorgets
are
named
with
these
strips.
The
gorget
when
worn
by
women
was
enriched
with
lace
and
needlework.
in
1617,
wrote
of
a
of
historical
Lace
Gorget
and
Cane
of
Captain
George
Curwen.
Captain
Ferrers
lace
Croats
in
I P
was
rather
than
them
King
Carter
in
Youth,
by
Sir
Godfrey
Kneller.
period.
coney-wool
The
Irishman
his
shag,
too,
The
Welsh
his
Monmouth
loves
to
wear
And
of
the
same
will
brag,
too
A
Challenge
for
Beauty,
THOMAS
HAYWARD.
the
city
flat-cap.
217
city
Flat
-P
wo
for each
most
ancient,
general,
warm,
and
profitable
coverings
of
men's
crowns
the
Muses
nine,
montero-cap
which
above
the
common
Garb
of
a
Quaker.
A
young
priest
at
another
time
snatched
this
montero-cap
off
be-
hats
was
an
important
factor
in
the
settlement
of
America.
with
furs,
but
with
corn.
all
this
wondrous
gain
in
undisturbed
peace.
The
incre-
VOL.
I
Q
James
Douglas
(Earl
of
Morton).
government,
in
spite
of
From
the
reddish.
One
which
effectually
destroys
all
possibility
of
dignity.
Elihu
Yale.
The
copper
cloth
of
gold
gowns
which
were
made
last,
Thomas
Cecil.
(as
phantasticall
as
the
rest)
are
the
women
in
magnificent
full-dress,
the
men
seated
at
the
table
8/20

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Two Centuries of Costume in America From 1700 to 1820 - Alice M Earle 1903 - Volume 1