Embed Size (px)
Citation preview
Untitled-4 1 10/22/18 4:34 PM
Untitled-5 1 10/22/18 4:38 PM
LAUNCH
Earning Their Stripes Adidas bosses weigh in on boosting U.S. growth, Kanye West and Trump tweets
Makings of a ChampionHow BBC execs and nostalgia are helping one label return to its winning ways
FO OT W E A R N E W S .C O M / N OV E M B E R 5 , 2 0 1 8 / @ FO OT W E A R N E W S
ROCKETCA R M E L O A N T H O N Y
I S I N S T Y L E A N D O N T O P I C .
I N A N E X C L U S I V E I N T E R V I E W , T H E
N B A P L A Y M A K E R T A K E S O N S O C I A L
I S S U E S A N D W H Y F A S H I O N I S H I S N E X T B I G S H O T .
By us ing the or ig inal s idewal l o f the Or ig inal B-Bal l Sneaker , Champion has
remained t rue to i ts DNA.
Grabbing inf luences f rom 1993 to 2018 , Champion has created a t imeless c lass ic.
The 93E ighteen’s c lass ic s i lhouette and l ightweight fee l i s pa i red wi th e levated suedes and leather uppers to g ive us a modern take on a ret ro ath let ic s ty le .
C Logo and Champion Logo are trademarks of HBI Branded Apparel Enterprises, LLC used under license ©2018 Hanesbrands Inc. All rights reserved
Untitled-1 2 10/23/18 2:09 PM
By us ing the or ig inal s idewal l o f the Or ig inal B-Bal l Sneaker , Champion has
remained t rue to i ts DNA.
Grabbing inf luences f rom 1993 to 2018 , Champion has created a t imeless c lass ic.
The 93E ighteen’s c lass ic s i lhouette and l ightweight fee l i s pa i red wi th e levated suedes and leather uppers to g ive us a modern take on a ret ro ath let ic s ty le .
C Logo and Champion Logo are trademarks of HBI Branded Apparel Enterprises, LLC used under license ©2018 Hanesbrands Inc. All rights reserved
Untitled-1 3 10/23/18 2:10 PM
TO REGISTER AND LEARN MORE, VISIT UBMFASHION.COM
SAVE THE DATE: FEBRUARY 5-7, 2019
is now located in the
NORTH HALL AT THE LAS VEGAS CONVENTION CENTER,
adjacent to the largest apparel trade show in Las Vegas — WWDMAGIC.
Now you can shop the most comprehensive collection
of footwear and apparel under one roof.
Maximize time, discover new trends and build
connections with more retailers and brands.
NEW LOOK.
NEW LOCATION.
MORE TO EXPERIENCE.
FN PLATFORM IS REIMAGINING THE
FOOTWEAR MARKETPLACE IN 2019.
Untitled-2 1 10/30/18 11:35 AM
CONTENTS
PH
OTO
: GEO
RG
E C
HIN
SE
E
0 5 N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 8
5
INSIDER
11 Stars and Stripes How Adidas’ top execs are accelerating their successful strategy in the U.S. market.
15 FN Spy Brian Atwood’s shoes are sure to steal the show on the Victoria’s Secret runway.
16 Champions’ League BBC is making a huge statement with the relaunch of Champion shoes.
17 Outdoor Conversation As the OR schedule gets more complicated, how vendors and retailers are adapting.
FEATURES
18 All But Melo Baller Carmelo Anthony discusses his fashion venture in an FN exclusive.
24Ice Ice BabyOutdoor brands dial up waterproof protection for cold weather.From top: Merrell Thermo Rogue 2.0 boot and Altra Tushar boot
ON THE COVER Photographed by BRYAN SCHUTMAAT
Carmelo Anthony in a Rag & Bone henley with his Air Jordan 20 Flyknit x Carmelo Anthony x Rag & Bone sneak-ers in olive and orange.
THE LIST
29 Shoe of the Week Timberland’s new luxe leather boot for fall ’18 is tougher than it looks.
30 Hyping the Hike The inside scoop on the Kith x Vasque collab collection.
31 Good Taste FN catches up with U.S. Olympic skier Breezy Johnson.
32 Five Questions Sole Technology chief Pierre-André Senizergues on the revival of ’90s skate style.
33 The Fast Lane Two brothers are bridging fashion and performance with the Lane Eight brand.
FN PICK
34 It’s a Toss Up Meghan Markle tries her hand at “wellie wanging” in New Zealand.
Jay Penske Chairman & CEO
CONNECT WITH US FAIRCHILD OFFICES
FAIRCHILD MEDIA AND FN ARE OWNED AND PUBLISHED BY PENSKE MEDIA CORPORATION
Michael Atmore Editorial Director
George Grobar Chief Operating Officer • Gerry Byrne Vice Chairman • Craig Perreault EVP, Business Development • Todd Greene EVP, Business Affairs & General Counsel • Debashish Ghosh Managing Director • Jenny Connelly SVP, Product • Ken DelAlcazar SVP, Finance • Tom Finn SVP, Operations
Nelson Anderson VP, Creative • Young Ko VP, Finance • Gabriel Koen VP, Technology • Kevin LaBonge VP, Global Partnerships & Licensing • Brian Levine VP, Revenue Operations • Judith R. Margolin VP,
Deputy General Counsel • Julie Trinh VP, Global Tax • Lauren Utecht VP, Human Resources & Corporate Communications • Tarik West VP, Human Resources • Christina Yeoh VP, Technical Operations Julie Zhu VP, Audience Marketing & Subscriptions • Joni Antonacci Senior Director, Production
Operations Nici Catton • Senior Director, Projects • Gurjeet Chima Senior Director, International Markets Eddie Ko Senior Director, Advertising Operations • Andy Limpus Senior Director, Talent Acquisition
Amit Sannad Senior Director, Development • Karl Walter Senior Director, PMC Content Mike Ye Senior Director, Strategic Planning & Acquisition • Constance Ejuma Director, SEO
Laura Ongaro Editorial & Brand Director, International • Katie Passantino Director, Business Development Derek Ramsay Senior Product Manager
Editorial 212-256-8120
Display advertising 646-356-4847
Production 646-893-3065
Individual subscriptions & single copy sales
866-963-7335
Editorial reprints Wright’s Media 877-652-5295
New York 10017 475 Fifth Ave., 16th Floor
Los Angeles 90025 11175 Santa
Monica Blvd.
London W1B 5AW 48 Warwick St.,
Suite 202
Milan 20122 Via Albricci No. 7
Paris 75008 9 Rue Royale,
011-3314-451-1300
EDITORIAL
Neil Weilheimer Managing Editor • Katie Abel Executive EditorJennie Bell Features Editor • Eugenia Richman Digital Director
Shannon Adducci Fashion Editor • Barbara Schneider-Levy Senior Editor, Men’s & ComfortJessica Fitzgerald Art Director • Sheena Butler-Young Senior Business Editor
Charlie Carballo Senior Digital Editor • Peter Verry Senior Editor, Athletic & Outdoor Stephanie Hirschmiller European Editor • Lief Nielsen Copy Editor Heidi Pashman Social Media Editor • Nikara Johns Women’s Editor
Nia Groce Fashion Assistant • Samantha McDonald Digital News Editor Sam Peters E-commerce Editor • Erin E. Clack Contributing Editor, Children’s
CORRESPONDENTS
Samantha Conti, Natalie Theodosi London • Joelle Diderich Paris • Luisa Zargani Milan
PHOTOGRAPHY/VIDEO Ash Barhamand Visual Media Director
Amanda Jones PMC Studio Manager • George Chinsee Photographer
ADVERTISING
Sandi Mines Vice President & PublisherMichelle Raskin West Coast Director • Michele Loffman Account Director
Samantha Rumsky Digital Account Manager • Giulia Squeri European Account DirectorGomatie Sanichar Office Manager • Emanuela Altimani Senior Sales Coordinator
DIGITAL/MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES
Cass Spencer Creative Director, Marketing • Suzette Minetti Senior Brand ManagerLauren-Ashley Spencer Integrated Marketing Manager
Laney Kay Digital Strategist • Alice Kim Junior Designer
AUDIENCE MARKETINGEllen Dealy Vice President • Randi Segal Senior Director, Institutional Sales • John Cross Director
PRODUCTION/DISTRIBUTION
Kevin Hurley Production Director • Anne Leonard Production Manager • Michael Petre Director of Distribution
PREPRESS PRODUCTIONAlex Sharfman Digital Imaging
SUMMITS & EVENTS
Alexis Coyle VP & GM, Fairchild Live & WWD • Mary Ann Bacher Executive Editorial Director
FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC Michael Atmore Editorial Director of FN & Director of Brand Development
Ron Wilson Director, European Operations
SHOP ONLINE AT KSWISS.COM/DARKCLOUDS
Untitled-25 1 10/30/18 4:48 PM
footwearnews.com A sneak peek at some of our best upcoming content.
S T O R I E S & V I D E O SS T O R I E S & V I D E O S
Carmelo Anthony
on-set in L.A.
V I D E O
V I D E O
?
V I D E O
PH
OTO
S: M
.GE
MI:
CO
UR
TE
SY
OF
MG
EM
I.CO
M; M
AN
OLO
BLA
HN
IK: G
EOR
GE
CH
INS
EE
; AD
IDA
S: C
OU
RT
ES
Y O
F A
DID
AS
.CO
M; N
IKE
: CO
UR
TE
SY
OF
NIK
E.C
OM
8
Black Friday and Holiday Shopping PredictionsWeek of Nov. 5Will Black Friday pull some stores out of the retail rut, at least temporarily? Will it live up to expectations? FN contributing editor Hilary George-Parkin looks at the most reliable data on the subject.
Behind the Scenes With Carmelo Anthony Week of Nov. 5Houston Rockets basketball player Carmelo Anthony brings his sartorial prowess — and designs from his many collaborations — to FN. Watch our exclusive video for candid moments and cool looks.
Anthony Answers Rapid-Fire Questions Week of Nov. 5Carmelo Anthony chats with Peter Verry, FN’s senior athletic and outdoor editor, about favorite sneakers, the best city for fashion and his career outside of basketball in a 1-minute clip.
Outfi t Ideas for Every Type of ThanksgivingWeek of Nov. 12From “friendsgiving” din-ners to family reunions, FN’s e-commerce editor pieces together the most stylish outfits — complete with the best shoes — for every type of Thanksgiving occasion.
A Decade of Loving Manolo Blahnik’s Hangisi PumpsWeek of Nov. 12Ever since Mr. Big proposed to Carrie Bradshaw in the “Sex and the City” movie with a pair of Manolo Blahnik Hangisi heels, the style has become something of a pop
culture phenomenon. FN charts the shoe’s evolution in honor of its 10th anniversary.
Top Gifts to Buy for the Adidas Fanatic Week of Nov. 12Got a Three Stripes lover in your life? Ahead of the holidays, FN compiles the most giftworthy pieces from the sports giant, including must-have Originals sneakers and the brand’s classic trefoil hoodie.
The Best Black Friday Shoe DealsWeek of Nov. 19FN sifts through countless sales to deliver the most worthwhile discounts from top shoe brands.
Adidas Trefoil hoodie
Manolo Blahnik Hangisi pumps
M.Gemi Cerchio Velvet sneaker
Carmelo Anthony strikes a pose in Houston
Carmelo Anthony on-set in Houston
Nike Zoom Fly running shoe
Untitled-2 1 10/30/18 10:08 AMUntitled-2 1 10/31/18 2:36 PM
FOR ADVERTISING INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT SANDI MINES, VP AND PUBLISHER AT 212 256 8117 OR [email protected]
BRUCE NORDSTROML I F E T I M E A C H I E V E M E N T
DIANE SULLIVAN P E R S O N O F T H E Y E A R
AUTHENTIC BRANDS GROUPC O M P A N Y O F T H E Y E A R
FILA DISRUPTOR 2S H O E O F T H E Y E A R
TABITHA SIMMONSD E S I G N E R O F T H E Y E A R
MIKE AMIRIE M E R G I N G T A L E N T
CHLOE GOSSELINE M E R G I N G T A L E N T
ALLBIRDSB R A N D O F T H E Y E A R
AMINA MUADDIL A U N C H O F T H E Y E A R
REEBOK X PYER MOSSC O L L A B O R A T I O N O F T H E Y E A R
PETER HARRISH A L L O F F A M E
MARC FISHERH A L L O F F A M E
PIERRE HARDYH A L L O F F A M E
REBECCA MINKOFFS O C I A L I M P A C T
FFANY SHOES ON SALE I C O N A W A R D F O R P H I L A N T H R O P Y
SPONSORED BY
Join Us in Honoring 2018’s Impactful Leaders and Legends with Inclusion in our Annual FNAA Special Issue.
ISSUE: December 3 / CLOSE: November 21BONUS DISTRIBUTION: FN Achievement Awards, FFANY
A C H I E V E M E N T A W A R D S
FN_HAD_FNAA.indd 2 11/1/18 2:11 PMUntitled-1 1 11/1/18 2:22 PM
I N S I D E RP
HO
TO: C
OU
RT
ES
Y O
F A
DID
AS
11
STARS AND
STRIPESHow Adidas chief Kasper Rorsted is
upping the ante in the competitive U.S. market
at a critical time.
By Peter Verry
I N S I D E RP
HO
TO: C
OU
RT
ES
Y O
F A
DID
AS
STARS AND
STRIPESHow Adidas chief Kasper Rorsted is
upping the ante in the competitive U.S. market
at a critical time.
By Peter Verry
12 INSIDER
PH
OTO
S: C
OU
RT
ES
Y O
F A
DID
AS
According to data provided by The
NPD Group Inc.’s retail tracking
service, the brand owned 6 per-
cent of the footwear market in the
12-month period through September
2016, trailing Nike and Jordan Brand.
But it has jumped over the Jump-
man, earning the No. 2 spot, trailing
only the Swoosh with 11 percent of
the market, according to recent data
from NPD.
The achievement was powered
by successful shoe franchises (most
notably, the Ultra Boost and NMD),
winning over sneaker diehards with
styles from famed brand partners
including Kanye West and Phar-
rell Williams, and a renewed love
for longtime favorites such as the
Stan Smith.
As the business continued its
upswing, U.S. president Mark King
left the company in July and was
succeeded by 20-year Adidas vet
Zion Armstrong, who most recently
served as the area’s GM. While there’s
a new leader in charge, how Adidas
approaches the U.S. consumer —
which includes deepening its roots in
sport — hasn’t changed. “The plan is
exactly the same. We built it together
in conjunction with our partners in
Germany, and we will continue to
bring that plan to life,” Armstrong
told FN. “It hasn’t been perfect every
step of the way, but the progress
we’ve made has been heavy, so there’s
zero change in strategy.”
But not every move to win con-
sumers over has been fruitful.
“They’ve had some product
missteps over the last 18 months or
so; they began to make introduc-
tions that weren’t quite so success-
ful — EQT, Prophere,” explained
Matt Powell, senior sports industry
adviser with NPD.
Also, the insider said Adidas
is hurting from the lackluster
performance of the iconic Superstar
silhouette, which had been one of
its top-performing styles at retail.
“Superstar is in major decline.
At one point, it was 20 percent of
Adidas sales in the U.S.,” Powell
said. “That’s a dangerous position
to be in, living on a blockbuster
item.”
According to NPD, the brand has
had just one sneaker appear on a
quarterly best-seller list this year:
the NMD_R1 in Q3.
But Powell doesn’t see this as a
negative. Instead, he believes it’s
an indication of the market seeking
variety. “The consumer is looking
for unique products; they don’t
want to look like everybody else.
And that requires a broad range, as
opposed to a very narrow portfolio,”
the expert explained.
And Rorsted sees that as an
opportunity. “What’s important is,
the sum outpaces the market,” he
said. “Of course we’d like to be in
the top 10, and we’ll be there in
some quarters, but from a stabil-
ity standpoint, it’s more important
that we have a set of franchises that
are outgrowing the market.”
Here, Rorsted and Armstrong
discuss Adidas’ continued North
American growth, the future of its
relationship with West and his Yeezy
line, and how politics play into deci-
sions regarding with whom to align.
What are you doing to fuel success in the U.S. market that your competitors aren’t?Kasper Rorsted: “We were the fi rst
to combine pop culture and sports
[with West]. Second, [we have] a
relentless focus on driving innova-
tion into our product. And third is
integrating sustainability into our
business model like no one has
ever done before, through Parley
[for the Oceans, to prevent plastic
pollution]. We’ve done all three
of these things earlier than our
competitors.”
Zion Armstrong: “Our growth is
coming o¥ a small base because we
weren’t a competitive player in the
market [in 2014]. We’ve seen tre-
mendous growth because we were
so weak early on. We’re seeing the
results right now from the invest-
ment from [Germany] into truly
winning in North America.”
West once had the hottest shoe around, but there’s a lot more competition now. How do you keep the momentum going?KR: “With certain products, [we will
focus] on brand activation, shortness
on the volume, and other shoes will
be more commercialized like we did
with the [‘Triple White’ Yeezy Boost]
350 V2.”
Do you think mass production of a specifi c style could hamper buzz and demand for the style? KR: “No, I think the brand can carry
much broader products than it has
so far, and we’re just getting to phase
2 in what we’re doing with Kanye.
If we didn’t continue to renew the
products he’s bringing out, eventu-
ally you could get some fatigue. But
I don’t think there’s risk for fatigue
with what we’re doing. Actually, it’s
on the contrary.”
ZA: “The Kiths and the Packers —
they’re not seeing challenges with
this. And what we’ve seen with the
most recent scarcity drops — Desert
Rats and 700s — is that sell-through
has been instantaneous. We’re mak-
ing sure the pipeline is full of new-
ness and, at the appropriate time,
commercializing what’s been in the
market for two years.”
Have West’s controversial political views caused disruption for Adidas?KR: “Kanye brings di¥ erent points
of view out. We want creators to
have freedom and sometimes have
a di¥ erent point of view, something
people could react to in a positive or
a negative sense. That is what Kanye
brings to the table. If he brought a
common position for everybody, I
There’s no question Adidas has found a winning game plan in the U.S. market, but now the athletic giant is facing a new challenge: to maintain momentum. ➵ Much of the success has come under the watch of CEO Kasper Rorsted, who has rallied the team to produce more hot product, pump up tech and capitalize on relationships with celebrities and influ-encers. ➵ Since assuming the role in 2016, the exec (who secured the No. 2 spot on FN’s 2018 Power List) has over-seen significant sales growth in the North American region, including this year’s Q1 and Q2 bumps of 21 and 16 percent, respectively. ➵ In that time, Adidas’ market share has also experienced tremendous growth.
ZionArmstrong
Adidas x Parley NMD_R1
KanyeWest
Untitled-2 1 10/30/18 11:27 AM
Pharrell Williams
think people would not react the way
they do. And in many ways, we’re
very supportive of what he does, but
it doesn’t mean we’re supportive of
every statement. We’re not signing
up to his statements; we’re signing
up to what he brings to the brand
and the products he’s bringing out.”
Does Adidas consider athletes’ or celebrities’ social and political views before aligning with them? KR: “It is a factor, but we sign ath-
letes on how they perform fi rst and
foremost. What’s important to us
is that the athletes with whom we
engage are in accordance with our
company. I cannot foresee us sign-
ing somebody who is, for example,
a deliberate racist, because that is a
contradiction of what we stand for.
If people were inappropriate, we
would cancel contracts. We’ve done
that with athletes or associations.
For instance, we didn’t believe the
International Association of Athlet-
ics Federation values aligned with
us anymore, so we canceled the
contract.”
ZA: “At the same time, we’ve
enhanced our sports marketing con-
tracts to ensure that we’re inclusive,
so if someone comes out through
the LGBTQ community and a team
drops them, we won’t support that
team. That’s groundbreaking.”
What do you make of Nike using polarizing former pro quarterback Colin Kaepernick in advertising? KR: “They’re making a point of view,
and we’re trying to make the same
point of view, and that is that sport
unites; we don’t believe it should
separate. It was a good stance to
take; I’ve been very transparent
about that internally at Adidas, also.”
What did you think when President Donald Trump went after Nike on Twitter?KR: “I have not seen every tweet he’s
made [about Nike]. I can only look
upon us and speak about us. We
have created thousands of jobs in the
U.S., and I assume that our competi-
tor Nike has created even more jobs
than we have. We look at it as if we
can create jobs and get people to
exercise, we think it’s good for society.”
Are you afraid that if you did something Trump didn’t agree with, he would come after Adidas publicly?KR: “There has to be a business rea-
son for ru� ing anyone’s feathers. We
operate in 75 countries; we have a lot
of di� erent politicians in the coun-
tries. My job as CEO is not to have a
political opinion about every single
country in the world. It’s to make
sure we have the right leadership
teams in the di� erent countries and
become a good citizen in the coun-
tries where we build a sustainable
business. That does not mean we
don’t have a political position about
the EU, but we very seldom have a
position on any given individual that
represents a country.”
Are you worried about Brexit in regard to business with the U.K.?KR: “It’s unrealistic to believe that
the European and English economy
will not be negatively impacted by
Brexit. Anyone who would state
something di� erent will simply
be against facts. It will impact any
industry, including ours.”
How is Adidas preparing?KR: “You can’t prepare for the fun-
damental economic setup of the EU.
What you can prepare for is a dif-
ferent distribution methodology, so
right now, we’re building warehouse
capabilities in the U.K.. Any global
company dealing with the U.K.
will have that issue, and every U.K.
company that deals with the rest of
Europe will have that issue. It’s one
of the most of unwise political deci-
sions in the last 30 years.”
Issues surrounding women in the workplace have been in the spotlight this year. How are you focusing on this issue? KR: “Women’s empowerment is not
new in our company. More than 32
percent of the leaders in our com-
pany are female. And we’re [focus-
ing on] equal pay and promoting in
appropriate ways.
“The fi rst 18 months as the CEO,
I was mentoring three female lead-
ers — one from Europe, one from
the U.S. and one from Asia — to set
the tone from the top. I believe it’s
important that if you want it to be
taken seriously, if I don’t spend my
time on it, why would I expect any-
one else to spend their time on it?”
ZA: “With some upcoming
announcements, my frontline, my
direct [senior leader] reports are
50-50 male-female — maybe even
slightly higher. We’re exception-
ally proud of that. We also have a
women’s enterprise resource group
in Portland [Ore.], and they always
give me the feedback on how we
can improve. We’re happy with the
progress, but we still have a long
way to go.”
What is your take on newcomers such as Allbirds, which has captured a lot of consumer attention this year?KR: “It’s good for the industry that
you have companies pushing the
borders and coming up with new
innovation. The reason why it’s good
is because smaller and aggressive
companies keep larger companies
on their toes. But the vast majority
of these companies will not have a
long life cycle, speaking statistically.
If you look so far, there are few
niche companies that have made
inroads.”
Would you acquire one of these companies if they got hot enough?KR: “I don’t think we should buy the
brand; I think we should buy the
technology or business model. If you
look at our investment in Carbon
[digital light synthesis technol-
ogy], that’s an example. For us as a
company, [that’s a priority]. It could
be companies that supply materials
or with a specialized competence in
digital design.”
“We’re [focusing on] equal pay
and promoting in appropriate
ways.” — Kasper Rorsted
Adidas YeezyBoost 350 V2“Zeebra”
Adidas x Pharrell “Hu Holi” collection
14 INSIDER
Spy
INSIDER
SpySpySpy
Guardian AngelBrian Atwood is back designing the shoes for the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show. Here’s a first look.By Nikara Johns
A fter taking place abroad two years in a row, the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show is headed
back to New York, and Brian Atwood is design-ing the statement-making shoe looks once again.
For the fourth time, Atwood has been tasked to create a collection of heels for top models including Gigi Hadid, Kendall Jenner, Behati Prinsloo, Lais Ribeiro, Martha Hunt, Stella Maxwell and more.
And while the event’s signature angel wings are hard to compete with, the dramatic shoes have stolen the spotlight in years past.
“It’s the best fashion show for shoes,” Atwood told FN. “It’s always inspiring, and when you do these, it’s always over the top, and you can be open to create, whether it’s with materials, embroideries, colors or patchworks.”
Viewers can expect sandals — specifi cally, ones covered in ostrich feathers — ankle boots and thigh-high heels. Atwood said, “[There will be] beautiful crystal embroidery on some and sandals that are dreamlike.”
Although he remained tight-lipped on the themes, he revealed that there will be a tartan-fi lled section inspired by the English countryside.
Atwood added, “We always have the sexy dark angel, femme fatale [segment]. That’s always really fun to do.” It’s also safe to say New York City’s edge will be an inspiration, with many shoe styles seen in leather.
Most importantly, there will be no sneakers in sight. It’s all about the sexy high heel, according to the shoe designer.
“[The models] can walk on anything,” Atwood said. “It’s great to see them up there rocking my heels, [but] it’s always nerve-racking, especially when I’m at the show looking at the heels think-ing, ‘Don’t break.’”
The show will be fi lmed this month and air on ABC on Dec. 2.
A Brian Atwood sketch
A sketch of Brian Atwood’s Victoria’s Secret show shoes
15
Walk This WayThe Skechers Pier to Pier Friend-ship Walk set a milestone on its 10th anniversary Oct. 28 by surpassing $2 million in contributions for children with special needs. Longtime sup-
porter Brooke Burke was on hand at the Manhat-tan Beach, Calif., event, and she told FN that she brings her children to teach them the power of giving. She said, “Michael Greenberg had an idea 10 years ago, and today, there’s 14,000 people, and it keeps growing.
It’s an accomplishment, and it feels good. That’s what I’m trying to teach my children — give until it feels good.” Since its inception, the event has raised more than $11 million. — Charlie Carballo
GOLDEN AGE At 70, Maye Musk — a model whose career has spanned more than 50 years — wants other women to know at her age: “You’re just getting started.” The mother to billionaire Tesla magnate Elon said, “When you go on Instagram and you’re not an 18-year-old tall, white skinny girl, and people relate to you, fall in love with you [and] follow you, the fashion industry figures out: ‘OK, I need to feature them in my runway shows and campaigns.’” Musk joined other industry power players at The Fashion Group International’s Night of Stars event Oct. 25, where she took home the Oracle Award. Other honorees included Anna Sui, Vera Wang, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon. — C.C.
MASTER CLASSWhen Virgil Abloh studied analysis of Nike‘s recent move to make Colin Kaepernick a face of its “Just Do It” 30th anniversary campaign, the designer had one big takeaway. “To me, the glimmer of importance was that the brand took a stance. Make a point. Stand for something. Don’t be on whatever side the wind blows,” Abloh, the O� -White founder and Nike collaborator, told the crowd last week at the WWD Apparel + Retail CEO Summit. The designer — who also serves as the artistic director of menswear at Louis Vuitton, moonlights as a DJ
and collaborates with many brands — has clearly mastered the millen-nial. And his success stems from his ability to genuinely connect with his audience. ”The key word is ‘relevancy.’ A customer can give you a thumbs-up or thumbs-down in two seconds,” he said. — Katie Abel
Sugar Ray Leonard,Brooke Burke,
Michael Greenberg, Denise Austin
Maye Musk
Virgil Abloh
PH
OTO
S: M
US
K: P
AT
RIC
K M
CM
ULL
AN
; AB
LOH
: SH
UT
TE
RS
TOC
K; A
LL O
TH
ER
S: C
OU
RT
ES
Y O
F C
OM
PAN
IES
O
INSIDER
With the brand riding high, shoes are playing a starring role. By Erin E. Clack
16
PH
OTO
: CO
UR
TE
SY
OF
CH
AM
PIO
N
Champions’ League
n the cusp of its milestone 100th an-
niversary, Champion is rebooting its
lifestyle footwear business — and the
early results have been robust.
Under licensing partner BBC International,
the iconic sportswear brand, a division of
Hanesbrands Inc., kicked off the launch for
back-to-school with the rollout of a sporty
C-logo slide sandal (priced at $35). Two sneaker
styles — the Rally Pro knit and mesh midtop
and the 93Eighteen classic jogger ($70-$100) —
quickly followed.
Sell-throughs have so far surpassed expecta-
tions as Champion rides a comeback wave amid
strong demand for nostalgic heritage brands,
according to Seth Campbell, BBC’s SVP of busi-
ness development. “We know the brand is hotter
than ever in apparel, but we’re even surprised by
how well the shoes are performing,” he said. “The
business is off to a tremendous start — we had
probably the most important slide in the market
for back-to-school — and we’re excited about
what it can ultimately become.”
Matt Waterman, VP and GM of Champion
Athleticwear, said the goal is to create footwear
that connects with the brand’s clothing stories.
“We want to offer our consumers a head-to-toe
experience with shoes that tie back to what
we’re doing on the apparel side. We’re in the
very initial stages of this, but BBC has done a
fantastic job of digging into our brand DNA and
translating that to the footwear.”
The collection is being stocked by a range
of retailers, including Foot Locker, Finish Line,
DTLR, Jimmy Jazz, PacSun, Zumiez and Urban
Outfitters. Foot Locker will exclusively debut the
toddler and kids’ collection for holiday, to be fol-
lowed by a broader retail rollout for spring ’19.
At DTLR, the shoes have been a big hit with
customers, according to EVP and GMM Todd
Kirssin. “When I first saw the line, I was all-in
and told our buyers [it should be in] all doors —
that this wasn’t going to be a test,” he said. “So
far, our big bet has paid off, and the shoes have
performed well above our expectations.”
Kirssin added that BBC’s designs perfectly
capture the spirit of Champion’s clothing with
signature details such as cable stitching and
classic chenille logos. “To be relevant in footwear
right now with our consumer, you need to have
coordinating apparel. Champion’s tees, track
suits and jackets are killing it right now. The
entire line is super-fresh and ties in great with
the ’90s trend,” he said.
The footwear launch caps off a banner year
for Champion, whose U.S. sales surged by more
than 70 percent (outside the mass channel) in
the second quarter alone. The brand generated
major buzz with a series of high-profile collabo-
rations with labels including Carrots, End., Piet,
Wood Wood and Kith.
In addition, Champion opened its first U.S.
retail stores in Los Angeles, New York and Chicago,
with a fourth location slated to debut in Boston
this month. The shops feature exclusive product
offerings and an onsite customization service
allowing shoppers to design one-of-a-kind pieces.
“We’ve also come together as a global brand
within the last two years, reacquiring Champion
Europe and re-engaging with our Asia partner,”
Waterman noted. “We like to say we’re a 100-year-
old startup — we feel like we’re just getting
started. We have that mentality of being scrappy
and trying to find our way in this super-competi-
tive business while staying true to who we are.”
All of the expansion has Hanes executives
feeling bullish about the brand’s potential. The
Winston-Salem, N.C.-based company revealed
during its most recent earnings call in August
that Champion is on a trajectory to top $2 bil-
lion in global sales by 2022.
To capitalize on that momentum in footwear,
BBC plans to introduce additional categories in
step with the evolution of the apparel collection.
“Wherever the brand goes, we will follow in foot-
wear,” Campbell said. “There are so many differ-
ent areas that Champion can play in, whether it’s
outdoor or performance or retro basketball.”
Collaborations are also on the drawing board,
but Campbell said his team wants to first estab-
lish the footwear collection on its own strengths.
“We don’t want to validate the category with a
collaboration and have that pigeonhole us,” he
explained.
Next year, to mark its centennial, the label
is planning special campaigns as well as a
Champion 100 capsule collection highlighting
the brand’s storied history and vision for the
future — one that Campbell said is rife with
opportunity. “Obviously, ’90s brands are working
right now, but we believe Champion is a brand
that will endure long past this particular moment
in fashion,” he said.
“There are many different areas that Champion can play
in, whether it’s outdoor or performance or retro basketball.”
— Seth Campbell
s trade show Outdoor
Retailer’s Winter Market
kicks off in Denver on
Nov. 8, the industry is debating
what a schedule shift will mean
for business.
Outdoor Retailer now has three
major dates on its calendar: this
week’s event, the Snow Show in
January and the Summer Market
in June. (OR relocated to Denver
for this year’s edition and absorbed
SIA, which is rooted in skiing and
snowboarding.)
Organizers said they have tried
to formulate a schedule that works
for everyone. “It all started [a few
years ago] with a survey to our con-
stituents and retailers [about] tim-
ing,” said Marisa Nicholson, OR’s VP
and show director. “What we’ve seen
is more product being introduced in
very early time frames.”
But the addition of an event in
November has sparked confusion
among brands, attendees and media.
“OR is a big trade show for us,
and as a smaller brand, it rep-
resents a huge part of our sales
and marketing budgets,” Forsake
marketing director Jack Knoll told
FN. “Because of that factor, we have
to be super-attuned to the success
and failures of spending money.
We’re hopeful that November brings
potential benefits because it’s at the
start of the sales season — though if
it ends up being an ineffective show
for us, I know we can’t foresee us
committing to it long-term.”
From a footwear perspective,
some brands cited other unique
challenges. “We’ve been forced by
outerwear companies to go into this
November cycle,” said Peter Sachs,
GM of Lowa. “When certain big
companies hold up a red jacket, they
also show a shoe to go with it. I’m
trying to Compete for that market
share in November.”
Some merchants said the
schedule shift is part of an evolving
climate. “It would be easier if there
was one [physical] show,” said Ira
Rosh, DMM for Paragon Sports in
New York. “[But] we’re not facing
any big hardships with how things
are evolving. We’ll adjust accord-
ingly.”
For Sunlight Sports in Cody,
Wyo. — with deep roots in both the
traditional outdoor arena and the ski
and snowboard markets — multiple
show dates are creating obstacles.
(The retailer also attends the Grass-
roots Connect show in November.)
“The big challenges we see are just
being on the road more, which takes
us out of the office more and away
from overhead work — and, most
importantly, our customers,” co-
owner Wes Allen said.
To support retailers, Nicholson
said OR is touting its scholarship
program to ease the burden of trav-
eling to both shows. “We’re taking
the fund and trying to spread it out
over as many retailers as we can,”
she said. Finally, the show will host
its Innovation Awards at this week’s
event to help fuel the community
spirit.
How vendors and retailers are navigating a new trade show schedule. By Jessica Kaplan
The OutdoorConversation
“The big challenges are just being on the
road more, which takes us out of the
office more.” — Wes Allen, Sunlight Sports
A
PH
OTO
: SH
UT
TE
RS
TOC
K
A Salomon boot at the 2018 Snow Show
Untitled-1 1 11/1/18 5:17 PM
PH
OTO
: LO
UIS
TIN
SLE
Y
I n a n F N e x c l u s i v e , N B A s u p e r s t a r C a r m e l o
A n t h o n y t a l k s a b o u t b u i l d i n g h i s b r a n d , f a s h i o n c o l l a b s a n d
w h y m o r e a t h l e t e s n e e d t o s p e a k u p l i k e
C o l i n K a e p e r n i c k .
ALLBUT
MELOB Y P E T E R V E R R Y
P h o t o g r a p h s B y B r y a n S c h u t m a a t
PH
OTO
: LO
UIS
TIN
SLE
Y
1719
Anthony in a Rag & Bone suede camel
jacket and leather cap, Air Jordan x Carmelo
Anthony x Rag & Bone sneakers and shirt, and Rag & Bone x Carmelo
Anthony denim+
20
I N F E B R U A R Y , A F O X N E W S A N C H O R T O L D L E B R O N J A M E S T O “ S H U T U P A N D D R I B B L E .” M O N T H S L A T E R , P R E S I D E N T D O N A L D T R U M P R A T C H E T E D U P H I S
T W I T T E R A T T A C K S O N N I K E F O R S U P P O R T I N G F O R M E R N F L Q U A R T E R B A C K C O L I N K A E P E R N I C K . W H I L E P R O A T H L E T E S A R E B E I N G U R G E D T O R E M O V E T H E M S E L V E S
F R O M P O L I T I C S , N B A S T A R C A R M E L O A N T H O N Y I S R E F U S I N G T O S I T S I L E N T .
In fact, being in the NBA, a league that has sup-
ported player protests, has made it easier for the
15-year veteran, known for his mild-mannered
temperament, to speak out.
“[NBA commissioner] Adam Silver does a
great job of supporting the players in saying, ‘We
support your cause. We understand it’s not just
about you. You’ve got family in these places that
are being a� ected,’” Anthony told FN last month
after a three-hour practice with his new team,
the Houston Rockets. “We might not be a� ected
to a certain extent, but our families are, kids are,
so it’s great for the NBA to step up and give us a
platform to speak out.”
The experience for Anthony is vastly di� erent
from that of the athletes in the NFL, who have
been largely silenced, or in the case of Kaeper-
nick, excommunicated from the league.
Anthony has expressed that he’s proud of
Nike, the parent company of Jordan Brand, for
which he is an ambassdor. He appreciates how
the Swoosh has provided Kaepernick a launch-
pad for his social justice message.
“That was one hell of a move by Nike.
Regardless of the backlash, they stepped up to the
plate and backed something they understand our
culture needs,” he said. “It’s bigger than selling a
sneaker. [And] it’s not just about Kaepernick; it’s
about his message and what he stands for.”
However, there is messaging coming from
other high-profi le celebrities that Anthony vehe-
mently opposes.
Much like the rest of the country in this politi-
cally charged climate, the baller had an opinion on
the moment’s hottest topic: Kanye West’s meeting
at the White House with President Donald Trump.
The two met four days prior to FN’s interview
with Anthony.
“I don’t think anybody knows what Kanye’s
motives are or what he’s trying to get out of this,
whether it’s for him as an individual or to help
our community, but don’t do it at everybody else’s
expense,” Anthony said. “Do it behind closed
doors; don’t throw this in everyone’s face.”
While West’s controversial political views
(some of which he’s since walked back) and the
interaction with Trump (whom Anthony considers
divisive) remain talking points in the news, it’s not
the fi rst time the baller has addressed contentious
topics publicly — he is interested in being part of
the conversation.
Following in the footsteps of his father,
Carmelo Iriate, a member of the Puerto Rican
social justice group Young Lords, Anthony
became a leader when his community needed
it most. In July 2016, he held a town hall-style
meeting in Los Angeles following the deadly
police shootings of Alton Sterling and Philando
Castile. Also that month, he stood alongside
James, Chris Paul and Dwyane Wade during the
ESPY Awards to advocate for social change.
But his toughest discussions don’t take place
in front of the masses; they occur at home with
his son, Kiyan.
“With what’s going on with society, you’re
forced to have conversations you don’t want to
have — what’s going on in our country, what’s
going on with our president, why was this person
shot and killed,” Anthony explained. “My son is 11
years old, and I’ve got to answer those questions,
because if I don’t, then he can get [answers] from
somebody else, and who’s to say they are going to
give him the right information?”
C O U R T I N G F A S H I O NAt 34, Anthony is entering the latter stages of his
playing career. While he aims to win an elusive
fi rst NBA championship this season — he signed
a one-year, $2.4 million deal with the Rockets
this summer — the hoops star is continuing to
set himself up for life away from the hardwood.
And he has blueprints to follow. Take, for
instance, basketball icon Magic Johnson, who
turned his name into a billion-dollar conglomer-
ate that has investments in real estate, Starbucks
and sports franchises. Then there’s Shaquille
O’Neal, who retired from the NBA in 2011 but has
since made more money o£ -court by investing in
business ventures like security system Ring and
Krispy Kreme stores.
Similarly, Anthony’s business ventures include
investments in technology (Melo7 Tech Part-
ners LLC) and TV, fi lm and digital production
(Crea7ive). The latter’s latest work is “B/Real,”
presented by Cricket Wireless, a fi ve-fi lm series in
conjunction with Bleacher Report that launched
last month. The clips tell the compelling stories
of young athletes who have conquered adversity
and who end up getting surprise visits from
today’s biggest star athletes.
“That was one hell of a move by Nike. Regardless of the backlash, they stepped up to the plate and backedsomething they understand our culture needs. It’s bigger than
selling a sneaker. [And] it’s not just about Kaepernick.”
+HERE AND OPPOSITE: Anthony in a Rochambeau x Carmelo Anthony checked
overcoat, graphic hoodie, plaid trousers and knit logo cap and Bally suede sneakers
22
But Anthony’s most signifi cant business
dealing is fashion.
Two months ago, Anthony revealed his fi rst
capsule collection, dubbed “Melo Made,” which
he showed immediately following New York
Fashion Week. The presentation featured a
compelling lineup of footwear, apparel and
accessories in conjunction with handpicked
leading menswear brands including Goorin
Brothers, Rochambeau and Famous Nobodys.
But the most discussed piece from “Melo
Made” was a new Air Jordan 20, executed in
collaboration with Rag & Bone.
“We wanted to take something that was iconic,
like the Air Jordan 20, and reintroduce it in a new
and unexpected way,” Marcus Wainwright, founder
and CEO of Rag & Bone, said of the sneakers.
The athlete-turned-designer, along with the
brand, created two iterations of the classic Mi-
chael Jordan signature shoe: a primarily black
look with a gum sole and gray panels, and a ver-
sion executed in olive, orange and black hues.
Collaborating with several respected labels
allowed Anthony to bypass what he called frus-
trating industry guidelines.
“When you abide by the rules of the fashion
industry, you have to have this style, have this
color, follow those trends,” Anthony said. “I don’t
want to have to meet deadlines. Let’s just do what
we want to do, what fi ts me and what people I
know want to wear. Let’s have fun with it.”
The 10-time NBA All-Star shared that his
passion for sneakers and apparel started as a kid.
“I’ve always had this sense of, ‘Those sneakers
are fl y, I could put this with that,’” Anthony said.
Still, fashion isn’t just a hobby for him. It’s
a bona fi de business. And thanks to basketball
— and being in the New York spotlight, where
he played for seven seasons — Anthony plans to
use his name and hard work ethic to make his
brand a success.
When asked how he manages to balance all
his obligations, Anthony cracked a smile and
said: “It’s the business. I’ve got to get it done.”
The “Melo Made” collection is also a way
BELOW: Anthony in a Rag & Bone wool overcoat, black henley and camo pants with Air Jordan 9 retro boots+
PH
OTO
S: S
IDE
BA
R: S
HU
TT
ER
STO
CK
MOODSOF MELOA look at the NBA player’s off -court style evolution and eclectic taste. An upscale take on
his “Hoodie Melo” persona, complete with Nike Air Force 1s, at the Rochambeau New York Fashion Week show in 2017
Patent leather lace-up shoes paired with a tux for a 2014 benefi t at the Metro politan Museum of Art in New York
Head-to-toe in Jordan Brand, including Air Jordan 12 sneakers, for the screening of “Big” in 2013
Classy even when hitting the gym, draped in a fi tted white woven shirt and matching luxe court shoes at Lifetime Athletic at Sky in New York in 2016
Casual crewneck and shorts with designer high-tops at the 2015 Nickelodeon Kids’ Choice Sports Awards
+Styled by Khalilah Beavers at the
Houston Rental Studio in Houston. Grooming by Derek Nieto.
for Anthony to showcase his approachable, yet
distinguished, taste in clothing.
“His style is classic, timeless,” said Khalilah
Beavers, Anthony’s stylist for nine years. “We don’t
do a whole lot of bells and whistles; it’s just simple
and eye-catching. There’s three goals: to be com-
fortable, to be himself and to look good doing it.”
Likewise, industry heavyweights outside of
the player’s circle are confi dent his presentation
will resonate with the masses.
“Other ballplayers are playing with this
avant-garde, dramatic high-fashion approach,
things most guys who love basketball could nev-
er relate to. Whereas Carmelo Anthony, he’s the
man’s man,” explained lifestyle expert Jerome
Lamar, whose résumé includes styling Kimora
Lee Simmons and Chanel Iman. “He’s classic in
the way he carries himself and his clothes. It’s a
real man’s modern wardrobe.”
Although equipped with a vision for his line,
Anthony learned quickly that fashion wouldn’t
be an easy layup.
“It’s tedious, it’s a lot of work, but it was fun
because I was learning about fabrics and facto-
ries,” he said. “Going through that experience took
my vision and creativity to a whole new level.”
So just how far does his fashion dream go?
Anthony said, if o� ered, he wouldn’t refuse a
new role: director of Jordan Brand.
Speaking hypothetically, Anthony explained he
already has a game plan in place for the company
(and his Melo signature franchise), if given the
reins. For starters, he wouldn’t make any changes
to its approach to retro releases, and his fi rst move
would be to skip on its performance mindset. In-
stead, he wants lifestyle aesthetics to drive business.
“Let’s take on-court completely away. We’ve
got to be on-court because it’s a performance-
driven brand, but let’s not think on-court,”
Anthony said. “Guys are wearing fashionable
items on the court, fashionable sneakers. Let’s
tap into that.”
“When you abide by the rules of the fashion industry, you have to have this style, have this color, follow those trends. I don’t want to have to meet deadlines. Let’s just do what we want to do [and] have fun with it.”
PH
OTO
S: S
IDE
BA
R: S
HU
TT
ER
STO
CK
Untitled-1 1 11/1/18 5:10 PM
Clockwise from left: ADIDAS OUTDOOR Terrex Free Hiker GTX waterproof men’s shoe with Primeknit upper and Boost midsoleAKU Rapida GTX waterproof men’s walking shoe with Vibram Cruise outsoleSALOMON Sense Ride GTX men’s shoe with Gore Invisible Fit exclusive integrated membrane technology
25
Brave the cold-weather
elements with grippy,
waterproofboots and shoes
ready for any wintry mix.
P h o t o g r a p h e d b yG E O R G E C H I N S E E
F a s h i o n E d i t o rS H A N N O N A D D U C C I
M a r k e t E d i t o rP E T E R V E R R Y
PAJAR Kamira women’s waterproof boot with Pajar-Tex membrane that withstands the cold, to minus 22 degrees Fahrenheit
27
From top: GARMONT Miguasha Nubuck GTX men’s boot with Heel Lock technology LACROSSE Women’s Aero Timber Top duck-style boot with polyurethane AeroForm Shell bottom
SHOW ISSUES
Pre-FFANYISSUE Nov 26
CLOSE DATE Nov 14BONUS DISTRIBUTION FFANY, Two Ten Gala
FFANYISSUE Dec 3
CLOSE DATE Nov 21BONUS DISTRIBUTION FFANY, FN Achievement Awards
FFANY
FOR ADVERTISING INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT SANDI MINES, VP AND PUBLISHER AT 212 256 8117 OR [email protected]
FN_HAD_FFANY_10.11.indd 2 10/11/18 2:16 PMUntitled-2 1 10/11/18 2:23 PM
PH
OTO
: GEO
RG
E C
HIN
SE
E
29
These Timberland boots are ready for you, Mother Nature. The fall ’19 Courma Guy style is reminiscent of the brand’s iconic 6-inch boot but comes equipped with an eco-friendly Timber-Dry waterproof membrane that’s tough enough to withstand the elements.
WEATHER OR NOT01/Shoeof the Week
FO OT W E A R N EWS.CO M
PHOTOS: COURTESY OF EARTH
PH
OTO
S: C
OU
RT
ES
Y O
F K
ITH
30
comfort o� the trails.
For Kith’s fall collection,
Fieg worked with Vasque
to revamp two of its most
popular styles from the
’90s, casting the Sundowner
in mauve leather with
oxblood and burgundy
details and o� ering the Sky-
walk (renamed by Fieg as
the “Skywalker”) in two col-
Like so much in fashion today, Ronnie Fieg’s relationship with Vasque
Footwear started in the 1990s. ➵ The Kith founder was working as a stock
boy at the famed footwear retailer David Z at the height of the hiking
boot trend that reigned among New York City’s youth. He restocked the
brand’s Sundowner and Skywalk boots as fast as they fl ew o� the shelves.
➵ “Today’s hype and excitement for sneakers was for boots and brown
shoes back then,” said Fieg. “Vasque was at the forefront of that move-
ment, especially since their [boots] were known for their Gore-Tex lining.
Everyone wanted the Gore boots, and Vasque was making the most pre-
mium ones.” ➵ Founded in 1964 and owned by Red Wing Shoe Co., Vasque
has been renowned among backpackers and outdoor enthusiasts for its
long-wearing hiking boots and trail runners, but the brand has also found
fans among city dwellers who appreciate the same level of durability and
How Kith founder Ronnie Fieg and outdoor brand Vasque retooled hiking boots for the streetwear set.By Hilary George-Parkin
HYPING THE HIKE 02/Case Study
“ The lines between lifestyle and outdoor
have blurred to the point where
they can be used interchangeably.”
— JOE PETERS, VASQUE
Ronnie Fieg’s takeon the VasqueSkywalk hiker
debuted last month in Kith
stores and on the retailer’s
e-commerce site.
According to Joe Peters,
Vasque’s head of marketing,
there has been a resurgence
in demand for several styles
the company launched in
the ’80s and ’90s, comple-
menting the perennial
interest in its newest
and most technologically
advanced models.
But the label’s priorities
have not changed, Peters
emphasized. It’s more the
case that new customers
have discovered what it has
always o� ered. “I wouldn’t
consider us pushing into a
lifestyle category,” he said.
“From our perspective, the
lifestyle category has found
the outdoor industry.”
Across the fashion
spectrum, many brands
introduced hiking-inspired
styles to their lineups
for fall, though few
featured the kind
of performance
elements that
would actually
make them func-
tional beyond city
sidewalks.
Vasque, mean-
while, has incor-
porated Gore-Tex
waterproofi ng in
its boots since
1984, and the
component fea-
tures prominently
in the new Fieg-
designed models.
The Kith founder
noted he was drawn
to the company’s
continuity. “What I
respect most about
Vasque is their
dedication to
consistency,” he said. “A lot
of brands feel the need to
deviate from their strengths
and attempt to reinvent
themselves, but Vasque
hasn’t changed their for-
mula. They are one of the
few brands who have main-
tained their quality through
construction and materials
since the 1990s. That’s why
they’ve built such a strong
and loyal following.”
At fi rst glance, it may
seem there is little overlap
between Kith’s sneakerhead
shoppers and backcoun-
try trekkers, but the two
groups do have some
things in common: Both
are obsessed with detail,
appreciate functionality
and want the best in terms
of materials.
Peters explained, “The
lines between lifestyle and
outdoor have blurred to
the point where they can
be used interchangeably. …
Those core outdoor custom-
ers are branching out and
acquiring more [classically]
defi ned lifestyle gear, and
the traditional lifestyle con-
sumer is acquiring some of
the most technical outdoor
products on the planet.”
He added that while the
Kith partnership has been
an exciting development
for Vasque, the brand is
maintaining its focus on its
core outdoor retailers and
customer base — but will
welcome new fans.
“We hope that the
lifestyle aspects of our
products that have piqued
interest might be vehicles
that introduce a larger
population to the incredible
magic that can be found
outdoors,” said the exec.
Styles from the Kith x Vasquecollaboration
Kith updated the Vasque
Skywalk style
orways — tan/
olive and navy/
red — using pre-
mium suede and
tough nylon mesh
for an elevated take
on the classic style.
The boots also
feature a cobranded
logo — a fi rst for
Vasque — and
Breezy Johnson can sculpt her way down a mountain like no other. As a rising U.S. Ski Team star, the elite athlete can boast of partaking in her fi rst Olympic Games this year in South Korea. “The Olympics were amazing,” Johnson told FN. “The best part for me was everyone we met from around the world.” Her debut in PyeongChang shined a new light on the Jackson, Wyo., native, who still calls the town home and claims it as her training ground to ideally reach Olympic gold at the Beijing Games in 2022. “I’ve traveled around the world but have never been able to fi nd somewhere quite as good as Jackson Hole Mountain Resort — it’s the greatest mountain I have ever skied on,” she said. Johnson counts Atomic Skis, Leki Poles, Level Gloves, Briko Helmets and JHMR as her main sponsors. During skiing’s o� season, the 22-year-old can be found getting her cardio on, noting: “I often wear Salomon sneakers and boots for running, along with any outdoor activity. Since I’m sponsored by Atomic Skis, which [like Salomon] is a part of Amer Sports, they kindly send me new kicks to stay on point.” ❚
GETTING COZYPendleton woolen mills is expanding its product line for fall ’19 with men’s and women’s footwear under license to Portland Product Werks, based in Portland, Ore. (The brand o� ers rainboots and � ip-� ops through Seattle-based Pend-leton Boot.) The new series includes boots, sneakers and slippers featuring the mill’s signature fabrics. Retailing for $40 to $199, the line delivers in August to outdoor and depart-ment stores and e-tailers.
FIRST GLANCEIsraeli fashion-comfort brand Naot last month marked the � rst anniversary of its � agship store in Woodbury, N.Y. In addition, the company debuted a line of rugged all-weather boots for men and women. The collection features a patented OC Grip outsole system with studs that can be rotated in and out, and removable shock-absorbing insoles. The boots retail for around $240.
SNAP SHOTAirwalk launched new global ads last week that celebrate rebellious teenagers. Recalling the Southern California young-sters who shaped the com-pany, it debuted “Teen Spirit,” a campaign shot by Thuan Tran. It features street-style in� u-encers such as Lumia Nocito and Geo Davis sporting new and classic Airwalk sneakers and acting out everyday life at home. The campaign consists of digital, social, retail and outdoor components.
04/ Buzz
BREEZY JOHNSONThe fearless skier shares her take on inspiration, staying fi t and the fi nesse of
being an Olympic athlete.
By Jessica Kaplan
Airwalkad image
Most riveting Olympic athlete I’ve met:
“ Bobsled athlete Evan Weinstock. His mother had died of cancer ... and he went to the Olympics for his mother.”
Best memory from PyeongChang:
“ Going to the German hockey team’s house post-Closing Ceremonies and celebrating their silver medal.”
Post-run recovery:“ I’m all about sitting in
icy streams or doing cold showers. It instantly revives me.”
Favorite TV show:“ I love ‘The Crown.’ I’m not
a royal fanatic, but after watching an episode, I’m intrigued to see if the storyline actually happened. It’s like a mini history lesson.”
Skier I look up to:“ Lindsey Vonn has been
super-great to me personally and to our entire U.S. Ski Team. She’s the greatest alpine female skier of all time.”
03/GoodTaste
31FO OT W E A R N EWS.CO M
PH
OTO
S: V
ON
N: G
REG
OR
Y PA
CE
/SH
UT
TE
RS
TOC
K; A
LL O
TH
ER
S: C
OU
RT
ES
Y O
F B
RA
ND
S A
ND
IND
IVID
UA
LS
Lindsey Vonn
Pendletonwool boot
FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM
For breaking news, the hottest shoe sightings and must-have trends
Join more than 95K followers @footwearnews
FN_06.25_SOLE_ESSENTIALS.indd 2 6/18/18 3:38 PM
FN Weekly Quarter pg new.indd 1 10/24/18 11:19 AM
Statement Required by 39 U.S.C. 3685 showing the Ownership, Management and Circulation of FOOTWEAR NEWS, published weekly, except for the first week in January, February, March, May and July, second week in November and December, third week in April and June, fourth week in August, September and December, fifth week in May and October for October 1, 2018. Publication No. 204-120. Annual subscription price $59.00.
1. Location of known office of Publication is 475 Fifth Ave, New York, NY 10017.2. Location of the Headquarters or General Business Offices of the Publisher is 475 Fifth Ave, New York, NY 10017.3. The names and addresses of the Vice President, Publisher, Editorial Director, and Executive Editor are: Vice President, Publisher, Sandi Mines, 475 Fifth Ave, New York, NY 10017. Editorial Director, Michael Atmore, 475 Fifth Ave, New York, NY 10017. Executive Editor, Neil Weilheimer, 475 Fifth Ave, New York, NY 10017. 4. The owner is: Fairchild Publishing, LLC., 475 Fifth Ave, New York, New York 10017. Stockholder: Directly or indirectly through intermediate corporations to the ultimate corporate parent, Penske Business Media, LLC, 11175 Santa Monica Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90025. 5. Known bondholders, mortgagees and other security holders owning or holding 1 percent or more of total amount of bonds, mortgages or other securities are: None. 6. Extent and nature of circulation
D Nonrequested Distribution (1) Outside County Nonrequested Copies 5,662 4,836
Stated on PS Form 3541 (2) In-County Nonrequested Copies Stated 0 0
on PS Form 3541 (3) Nonrequested Copies Distributed Through
the USPS by Other Classes of Mail (4) Nonrequested Copies Distributed Outside the Mail
0
1,247
0
369 E Total Nonrequested Distribution 6,909 5,205 F Total Distribution 15,952 14,239 G Copies not Distributed 221 196 H Total 16,173 14,435 I Percent Paid and/or Requested Circulation 56.69% 63.45% J Paid Electronic Copies 3,592 4,429 K Total Paid Print Copies (line 15c) 12,635 13,463
L + Paid Electronic Copies Total Print Distribution (Line 15f) 19,544 18,668
M + Paid Electronic Copies Percent Paid (Both Print & Electronic Copies) 64.65% 72.12%
7 I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete. (Signed) Danielle Romero, Financial Analyst
Untitled-1 1 11/16/17 1:45 PM
Average No. Copies each issue during preceding 12 months
Single Issue nearest to filing date
A Total No. Copies 16.173 14,435 B Legitimate Paid and/or Requested Distribution
(1) Outside County Paid/Requested 8,641 8,676 Mail Subscriptions stated on PS Form 3541
(2) In-County Paid/Requested Mail Subscriptions 0 0 stated on PS Form 3541
(3) Sales Through Dealers and Carriers, Street Vendors, 402 358 Counter Sales, and Other Paid or Requested Distribution Outside USPS®
(4) Requested Copies Distributed by Other Classes 0 0 of Mail Through the USPS
C Total Paid and/or Requested Circulation 9,043 9,034
FN QTR PG.indd 1 11/1/18 12:06 PMUntitled-2 1 11/1/18 12:35 PM
PH
OTO
: CO
UR
TE
SY
OF
SO
LE T
ECH
NO
LOG
Y
1 What are the skate industry’s biggest opportunities right now?“The ’90s trend. It’s where skate-boarding exploded in terms of cre-ativity, exposure and people wearing the product in the streets. I also think the Olympics two years from now will bring a lot of exposure and talk around skate. And high fashion right now is very connected with skateboarding; the most important trends come from us. Virgil Abloh with Louis Vuitton, for example — there’s a lot of skate influence in the shoes. I see some designs and say, ‘We did these in the ’90s.’ It’s clear for somebody who designed shoes at that time. And the same with other high-fashion brands, as well, from Hermès to Chanel.”
2How are you capitalizing on the ’90s fashion revival?“People are knocking on our door right now, and retailers are seeing the ’90s trend and think there’s going to be a cup sole trend. Etnies is a very strong brand in that area. And there’s a movement to recon-nect with brands you lost touch with. You see [it with] brands from back in the day, like Fila — people recognize them and buy them again, or new consumers think it’s cool and new, and get into it.”
3Fall ’18 included the Etnies Icons collec-tion. How did you develop that series?“It came from retailers asking us to bring back shoes from the ’90s in the U.S. and the U.K. For example, John Lore from Journeys has been
asking for a while to bring back the Czar. So we looked in our archive and identified the shoes that were the most appropriate, like the Senix, which is one of the first I designed. [The collection] also came from people on our team and consum-ers. We listen to our customers on Instagram and social media, and now we’re bringing back those styles [they requested]. What’s unique is, we tried to replicate exactly the way the shoes were made — same outsole, upper, flex, cushioning sys-tem. I was surprised because I went skating in the first sample, and even though skateboarding has evolved since the ’90s, they still felt like extremely good skate shoes — still extremely grippy, with good cushion-ing and a good board feel.”
4Who are Etnies’ biggest competitors?“Vans, because we’re in the same space. And also DC — they’re bring-ing back some of the ’90s. But for the type of look we are doing — a wider outsole with more rubber so it’s comfy, a taller sidewall and some rubber on the toe — not many brands born in the ’90s have that. It’s Etnies, DC, éS.”
5Are there plans to revamp your other skate brands?“Definitely éS, because we have a lot of momentum in the era — it explod-ed in the ’90s. It has that athletic look that’s trending right now, so there’s a lot of interest around éS. As far as Emerica, it’s a pure skateboarding brand, so it’s really strong at core skate retail accounts, so we don’t have plans to expand the distribution right now.”
05/ Five Questions
PIERRE-ANDRE SENIZERGUESSole Technology’s CEO talks trends and revamping its biggest brands.
By Peter Verry
FN 2 1/4 LHP page partials_template.indd 1 11/1/18 1:29 PM
James and Josh Shorrock are no strangers to the shoe busi-ness. The brothers gained exposure to the industry years before launching Lane Eight, their Hong Kong-based performance sneaker brand, but their early
Lane Eight’s sibling founders have set out to create a sneaker for today’s performance-meets-lifestyle demands. By Nia Groce
THE FAST LANE 06/One to Watch
introduction to the trade left something to be desired.
“Our father worked in footwear all of his life on the sourcing side, so that helped ignite my passion,” said James. “But growing up, we could only wear the
brand our dad worked for — Adidas.” Added Josh, “I was 16 the fi rst time I went into a Nike store.”
The two British nation-als (who have lived globally) later immersed themselves in the fi eld by taking on career-boosting gigs. An internship in Vietnam led Josh to a three-year stint working for Adidas in the country, while James cut his teeth as a footwear editor at Hypebeast. The duo eventually came together to form Lane Eight, which debuted in August. P
HO
TOS
: CO
UR
TE
SY
OF
BR
AN
D
“The idea was to combine elements from di� erent categories into one shoe,” said James. Thus was born their fi rst style, the Trainer AD 1, which is equal parts lifestyle and performance. The silhouette features a breathable knit upper, spe-cially designed sidewalls for stability and cushy sockliners for comfort.
The dual-gender model is sold primarily on Lane Eight’s e-commerce site (retailing for $160) and is also stocked at select retail-ers, including Le Board and Preview in New York.
“The design has quickly made Lane Eight a favorite, but what has shocked people is its functionality,” said Pre-view founder Geo� Harris. “Most people who see a knit upper think about the Adidas Ultraboost or Nike React, but unlike those models, you can move laterally in [the Trainer AD 1], allowing you to use it for both HIIT-based training and running.”
Le Board creative director Sofi a Karvela said of working
with the brand, “Lane Eight makes you feel part of the team.”
Nevertheless, the found-ers have faced their share of challenges. “We were stretched a little thin at fi rst as a business based in Hong Kong, selling a majority in the U.S.,” said Josh. “It was just the two of us, and cus-tomer requests were coming in the middle of the night.”
As they work to improve logistics and seek ware-houses closer to key markets, the team has its sights set on U.S. expansion in 2019. Upcoming initiatives include events and additional boutique placements. “We believe we can speak to a lot of di� erent audiences — people from all walks of life,” said James.
Lane Eight’sTrainer AD 1 in
Dusty Tan
From left: Joshand James
Shorrock
Untitled-2 1 10/31/18 5:07 PM
FO OT W E A R N EWS.CO M
PickPick
FN IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2018 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 74, NO. 35 November 5, 2018. FN (ISSN 0162-914X) is published weekly (except for the first week in January, February, March, May and July, second week in November and December, third week in April and June, fourth week in August, September and December, fifth week in May and October) by Fairchild Publishing, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 475 Fifth Ave, New York, NY 10017. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO FOOTWEAR NEWS, P.O. Box 6357, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to FOOTWEAR NEWS, P.O. Box 6357, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-963-7335, or e-mail customer service at [email protected]. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. One-year subscrip-tion price: U.S. $72, Canadian $149, foreign $295. Single-copy cost $10. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of a new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. We reserve the right to change the number of print issues in a subscription term, including discontinuing our print format, make substitutions and/or modify the manner in which the subscription is distributed. You have the right to cancel at any time and receive a full refund of any unused portion of your current subscription term. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to FOOTWEAR NEWS, 475 5th Ave, 2nd Fl., New York, NY 10017. For permissions and editorial requests, e-mail [email protected]. Visit us online at www.footwearnews.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Publishing, LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. FOOTWEAR NEWS IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITE ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDER-ATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY FOOTWEAR NEWS IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS , PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.
PH
OTO
: SH
UT
TE
RS
TOC
K
It’s a Toss UpMeghan Markle’s first major royal tour wasn’t just an opportunity to see the best of Australia, Fiji and more; it was also a time for her style to shine. The Duchess of Sussex showed off a variety of pumps and sneakers for the 16-day circuit and even slipped into waterproof Muck Boots. Here, she wore the British brand while slinging a polka-dotted rainboot for a “wellie wanging” contest in New Zealand.
34
ADVERTISING INFORMATIONSANDI MINES, VP, PUBLISHER
[email protected] OR 212 256 8117
CEO SUMMITMay 5 —7, 2019
T H E E D I T I O N H O T E L , M I A M I
The highly-anticipated Footwear News CEO Summit
returns to Miami in 2019, with analysis of all the
hot topics reshaping the industry.
Join the editors of FN and global footwear leaders to
explore innovation and emerging trends on design
technology, retail transformation, product development,
international trade, and more.
BRANDS AND RETAILERSSUE JIN LEE
[email protected] OR 646.438.1542
INDUSTRY PARTNERSALEXIS COYLE
[email protected] OR 646.356.4719
FN_HAD_CEO_SUMMIT.indd 2 10/11/18 1:47 PMUntitled-2 1 10/30/18 1:00 PM
Untitled-2 2 10/22/18 4:22 PM
Untitled-2 3 10/22/18 4:22 PM
Untitled-5 1 10/22/18 4:37 PM
