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Sheet Metal Brake
Plans
Build Your Own
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Here is an inexpensive and easy way to build your ownSheet Metal Brake. It is a nice little weekend project. I have
put a great deal of thought onto this design.
I have built 3 different proto types and found some roomfor improvements. So I redesigned it until I found it to be
perfect for my needs.
It was designed to bend aluminum up to 6feet wide and.040 thick. The last one I built I used to build my own little
motorcycle trailer and it worked great.
I have included in these plans a complete material listwith instructions, illustrations, and photos. My goal here wasto put these plans together so that anyone could understand
them.
You do not have to be an engineer to read these plans.You can also print out the pages you need which make it
convenient to take to the garage with you. I hope you will findthe plans easy to follow and I hope you enjoy building your
own.
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Hello since we designed these plans
some things has certainly changed.
This includes the price of steel.Most of the material needs to remain
the same however I have re-designed
the legs using a smaller size angle.
In the material list on the next
page you will see at the top of
the page the 3 X 3 X angleExample below:
UANGLE
U(Quantity U) USizeUUMark
(1) - 3 x 3 x x 76 - #1
(1) - 3 x 3 x x 76 1/8 - #2
(1) - 3 x 3 x x 72 - #3
(2) - 3 x 3 x x 31 - #s 4A & 4B
(2) - 3 x 3 x x 28 - #s 5A & 5B
(2) - 3 x 3 x x 2 - #s 6A & 6B
The four pieces shown here in red (2)
pieces 31 long and 2 pieces 28 long are
the ones you can alter.
We are now using 2 X 2 X 1/8 thick
angle and it is working great. It is also a
good bit cheaper than the 3 X 3 X thick angle.
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Cut the pieces to size and mark them with the piece numbers (on the right) out from the
dimensions shown here:
ANGLE
(Quantity) Size Mark
(1) - 3 x 3 x x 76 - #1
(1) - 3 x 3 x x 76 1/8 - #2(1) - 3 x 3 x x 72 - #3
(2) - 3 x 3 x x 31 - #s 4A & 4B
(2) - 3 x 3 x x 28 - #s 5A & 5B(2) - 3 x 3 x x 2 - #s 6A & 6B
ANGLE
(1) - 1 x 1 x 1/8 x 75 - #7
FLAT BAR
(1) - 3 x 1/8 x 60 - #8
FLAT BAR
(4) - 2 x 3 x - (2) #9s (2) #10s
COLD ROLL
(2) - 5/8 x 18 - #11
(2) - 5/8 x 2 - #12
(4) - 4 Swivel Casters
(2) 3/8 x 2 Course Thread Socket Cap Screws
(4) 3/8 x 1 1/4 Course Thread Bolts(4) 3/8 Flat Washers
(8) 3/8 Nuts
(4) 3/8 Lock Washers
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STEP # 6
Take the End Caps (2pcs) 2 x 3 x 28 (Marked #s 6A &6B) Cut out the notches on opposite corners as shown.
Illustration # 7 and Photo #6
STEP # 7
Now take the Hinge Plates (2pcs) 3 x 2 x (Marked # 9) Drillthe 5/8 holes through as shown.
Illustration # 8 and Photo #7
STEP # 8
Take the Clamping Plates (2pcs) 3 x 2 x (Marked #10) Drillthe 5/8 hole through as shown.
Illustration # 9 and Photo #8
STEP # 9
Take the Hold Down Clamp (1pc) 3 x 3 x x 72 (Marked#3) and take the (1pc) 3 x 1/8 x 60 (Marked #8). Measure and
place on an angle and stitch weld as shown.
Illustration # 10 and Photo #9
Now that you have all the pieces cut and drilled you will need toclean all the edges for safety.
We are ready to start the assembly.
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STEP # 10
Leg & Foot AssemblyYou will need the legs #s 4-A & 4-B and the feet #s 5-A & 5-B. Take#4-A and 5-A and line up as shown in illustration # 11 and Photo # 10.
Weld where the two pieces join together shown in Photo #10-B. You willdo the same with #4-B and 5-B with one exception, you turn the leg to
the opposite side as shown in Illustration #12
STEP # 11
Next we will add the casters to the leg & foot assembly unit. You havetwo options you can weld them on, or bolt them on its your choice. To
weld them on you lay the unit down as shown in Photo # 13 and positionthe caster evenly, one on each end. Use a C-Clamp to hold in place andweld around edges as shown in Photo # 13. To bolt them on you will
need to drill the holes appropriate for your casters, as the boltholepatterns will vary on different casters. Do the same with the other leg &
foot unit.
STEP # 12
Next we need the Main Frame (1 pc) Marked #1, we will also need (2)3/8 Bolts, (2) 3/8 Nuts, (2) Hinge Pins #12. Turn the Main Frame #1
over as shown in Photo #14 and put the bolts up through from theunderneath, place the nut over and tighten until firm. Now weld the nut
to the frame as shown in Photo # 14-B. Do the same on both ends.Leave the bolt in and turn over the Main Frame #1 (the photo does not
show the bolt in the hole, however we decided it should stay inthroughout this procedure to keep the hole free of weld splatter). Take
your Hinge Pins #12, one goes on each end. Place it back as far as you
can keeping it flush. This is very important that you make certain thatthe pins lay completely flush on the main frame. Use a C-Clamp to
secure them for welding as shown in Photo #15-B. Leave the C-clampson until the weld cools completely to prevent any pulling. You can
remove the bolts now.
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STEP # 16 Cont.
Now we are going to attach the Hinge Plates (2pcs) 3 x 2 x (Marked #9). Place the Hinge Plates over the Hinge Pins (this is a tight
fit, you might have to use a hammer to tap in place). Make sure theplates are squared with the Main Forming Angle and weld as shown in
Photo # 19-C. Be sure you see the notice on Photo # 19-C. (Do not weldpast the point shown in the photo). You can now remove the C-Clamps.
STEP # 17
Take the Clamping Plates (2pcs) 3 x 2 x (Marked #10), (2)3/8 Socket Head Cap Screws, and (4) 3/8 Flat Washers. Place the firstwasher over the socket head cap screw and place through the Clamping
plate and place a second washer over the bolt and spot weld the secondwasher in place as shown.
Illustrations #13 & 13-B and in Photo #21-A
STEP # 18
Next get the Clamping Plate #10 and the Hold Down Clamp Unit andthe Main Frame Unit. First take the Hold Down Clamp Unit and sit it on
top of the Main Frame Unit as shown in Photo #20. You will place theHold Down Clamp Unit back .040 from the front edge of the Main
Frame Unit and 1 back on each end as shown in Photo #20-A. Nowplace the Clamping Plate on the end of the Hold Down Clamp Unit.
Line up the bolt in the 3/8 hole in the Main Frame and also square upthe side with the edge of the Hold Down Clamp Unit and weld as shown
in Photo #21-B.
STEP # 19
Take the Handles (2pcs) 5/8 x 18 (Marked #11), turn the MainForming Angle up as shown in Photo #22 and clamp one Handle on
each end to the End Caps of the Main Forming Angle. Lining it up withthe Hinge Plate and the bottom of the End Cap as shown in Photo #21-A
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5/16"
5/16"5/8"
Side View
1"
5/8" 2"
2222
End View
#12
(Machine) Cut out the area 5/16" X 1" as shown here markedThese are the most important parts you will need to be sure omeasuring and machining. They are what lines everything up
pieces to bend even and square.
Illustration #1
Hinge Pins - 5/8" X 2" Long - Cold Roll (2pcs mark
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1"1"
Main Frame - 3" X 3" X 1/4" X 76 " Long (marked # 1)
76 " Long
1 1/4"
3"
#1
Illustration #2
.Drill 3/8" HoleThrough
1
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3/4"
3/4
3"
3
3/4"
Cut out theseportions 3/4"
Down & 1 1/4"Over both sides
and on the oppositecorner
Side View
2
#2
76 1/8"
Photos of the completedpiece follows on the next page
End View
22 22
Main Forming Angle - 3" X 3" X 1/4" X 76 1/8" Long (Marked #2)
Illustration #3
1 1/4"
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31"
1/2"
#4-A
2
Legs - 3" X 3" X 1/4" X 31" (2pcs Marked # 4-A & 4
Illustration #4
1/2" This is the legs 2 pieces marked #'s 4-A & 4-B. you will need to make two cutsshown above. This first one we will show is the releaf angle. Measure back1/2" and up 1/2" at one corner join marks and cut this angle off as shown.
The second cut is a 3/8" releaf on the opposite end from the angle releaf.
You will need to measure back 3/8" all the way up and then 3/8" overthe back edge as shown and cut away.
On the piece marked 4-B you will need to cut the angle and the 3/8" releafon the oppsite ends as shown on the next page
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As described on the previous page on #4-A and #4-B you
cut the 1/2" releaf angle on opposite ends. You will also cutthe 3/8" releaf on opposite ends from the 1/2" releaf angleas shown here. There are photos to show the releaf angleand 3/8" releaf on the next page
#4-A
#4-B
31"
Legs - 3" X 3" X 1/4" X 31" (2pcs marked #4-A & #4-B)
Illustration #5
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On #5-A you will need to measure and mark over12 1/2". On #5-B you will measure and mark from the
opposite end as shown in the drawing here. This isto line the legs up when we begin assembly. Go
ahead and set these aside.
Illustration #6
#5-B
#5-A
12 1/2"
28"
Feet - 3" X 3" X 1/4" X 28" (2pcs #'s 5-A & 5-B)
12 1/2"
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3/4"3/4" 3/4"
3" 3"
3"3"
2 1/2" 2 1/2"
2 2
#6A #6B
Illustration #7
Cut out the 3/4"places as shown
markedhere withan X
End Caps 2 1/2" X 3" - ( 2pcs marked #6-A & 6-B)
3/4"3/4"
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Drill 5/8" Hole
Through
Front View
Before you drill the 5/8" hole it would be
a good idea to first drill a pilot hole witha 3/8" bit first to insure you get a true5/8" hole.
Illustration #8
Hinge Plates - 3" X 2" X 1/2" (2pcs marked 9)
#9
1/2"3"
1/2"
1/2"
2"
5/8"
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3" 1/2"
2"
5/8"
1"
#10
5/8"
Illustration #9
Clamping Plates - 3" X 2" X 1/2" (2pcs marked #10)
Drill 5/8" HoleThrough
Before you drill the 5/8" hole it would be
a good idea to first drill a pilot hole witha 3/8" bit first to insure you get a true5/8" hole.
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72 1/2"
3"
3"
6 1/4" 6
5/16"
Stitch Weld Here
60"
Weld Here
#8
#3
#8#3
Illustration #10
3" X 3" X 1/4" X 72 1/2" - Marked #33" X 1/8" X 60" - Marked #8
Hold Down Clamp
Set the Flat Bar5/16" back from thefront edge as shown
here and 6 1/4" overfrom each end andstitch weld.
5/16"
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#4-B
#5-B 12 1/2"
Leg and Foot AssemIllustration #12
Photo # 10 shows the leg assemblPhoto's # 11 & 12 show a close viethe welding on next page.
This Leg and Foot Assembly will beput together the same way as thefirst one with the exception of turningthe leg to the opposite side as shownhere in this illustration #12
Place Leg #4-B and Foot #5-B
together as shown here making sure
they are square and weld where the jointogether.
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Top of P
Bottom of
3/8" SocketHead Cap
Screw
3/8" Washer
3/8" Washer
2" X 3" X 1/2"Clamping
Plate
Clamping Plate Assembly
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3/8" SocketHead Cap
Screw
2" X 3" 1/2"
Clamping
Plate
Spot Weld
Around This
3/8" WasherAs Shown
Spot WeldAround Thi
3/8" WasherAs Shown
Clamping Plate Assembly
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Now that your Brake is
completed you can paint it
any color you want.
This is what yourcompleted project
should look like.
Enjoy!