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17th Issue Vol. 3 No. 02 ISSN 2094-1765 February 2010

EDIBLE MUSHROOM CULTIVATION

Unknown to many, Rizal Technological University houses one of the technology centersin Philippine Mushroom production. The Mushroom Technology Project under Research andDevelopment Center, has been existing for more than 10 years with its mission of establishingvital parameters towards improved and maximized production of edible fungi in support of themushroom industry in the Philippines. Mushrooms are crops which can be effectively producedin the urban environment using wastes.

Headed by Prof. Patrocinio O. Macalinao and its co-project leader Prof. Angelita P.Medalla, its objectives includes (1) to establish a viable academe - industry partnership inmushroom research; (2) to identify research agenda catering to the needs of local mushroomindustry; (3) to establish and maintain in vitro gene banks for different mushroom strains andspecies; and (4) to promote the development and the use of mushroom as food, medicine, animalfeed and bio-remediant.

Mushrooms are fungi and classified in the Class Basidiomycetes. In a broad sensemushrooms are macrofungi with distinctive fruiting bodies which can either be epigeous(aboveground) or hypogeous (below ground), large enough to be seen by the naked eye, and can

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be picked up by hand. They are characterized by the presence of gills under the umbrella—shaped cap called pileus. Some have rings while others have none.

Most mushrooms have stalks while others some have none. Their size and color varyaccording to types and species.

Parts of a Mushroom

Some grow in masses or clusters, singly or in pairs. Others thrive well on cool weather,others in warm places. Mushroom growth vary even on substrates on which they grow. Somegrow on decaying wood or logs, others on composted materials.

Mushroom are propagated through spores. Just like plants, mushrooms have seed-likestructures – spores -- responsible for propagating the species. All fungus produce spores. Thesespores are very minute and microscopic, and they are dispersed and disseminated through theair with the wind. When they happen to fall on a suitable substrate, these spores will germinateand develop into mycelium If conditions are favorable it continuous to grow, ramify and developinto fruits. These fruits or fruiting bodies are actually what we call as mushrooms.

Mushroom life cycle.

Mushrooms are cultivated commercially in caves, dark cellars and in speciallyconstructed mushroom houses in properly maintained humidity and temperature. They are grownin beds (e.g. Button mushroom) consisting of a mixture of animal manure (cow or chicken) andchemically treated rice straw, over which a layer of soil is spread. Prior to this. the mycelium isgrown in pure culture under laboratory conditions, using aseptic tissue culture techniques.. In afew weeks the spawn will ramify the entire bed and the mushroom fruiting bodies will begin toappear. Several flushes of mushrooms develop in this manner.

Mushrooms are thought to be the most evolved fungi in the natural world. As traditionalfoods from the ancient times, mushrooms become more and more important for their ability tobio-convert inedible lignocellulose biomass (like wood and plant fiber) into rich protein foods with

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excellent nutritional value. Beside their famous delicate flavors, taste and texture, mushrooms arealso valued for their medicinal and tonic properties.

Some of the Mushrooms grown in the Philippines includes the following:

1. Volvariella volvaceae – They are also called rice straw or banana mushrooms. They are locallyknown as “kabuting dayami” or “kabuting saging” because they grow in nature on decayingbanana trunks and leaves and rice straw. The culture of this mushroom is popular in rural areaswhere the substrates are abundant.

2. Auricularia spp. – They are also called ear fungi or “taingang daga” . They are also growneither on ipil-ipil logs or on pasteurized rice bran – sawdust substrate combination similar toPleurotus. Auricularia are popularly cooked as a supplement to vegetable dishes such aschopsuey and soups. They are commonly marketed dried and revive fast to original shape bysoaking in water for 5 – 10 minutes.

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3. Agaricus bisporus – popularly known as the white button mushroom or champignon. Popular inwestern countries, the technology of growing these mushrooms is well developed and can beadapted under Philippine conditions. They are grown in cool areas like in Baguio and Benguet.

4. Agaricus bitorquis – a semi temperate or tropical species of white button mushroom. Thismushroom species are cultivated during summer since it can thrive at a temperature range of 280to 320 centigrade

Agaricus is grown on composting of rice straw, chicken manure and other supplement like ureaand ammonium sulfate. A mushroom growing house where the environment may be adjusted tosuit the requirements of the mushrooms should be provided.

5. Lentinus edodes – is theShiitake or brown or blackJapanese mushroom. They arecultivated either on cut logs orsawdust – rice brancombination similar toPleurotus and Auricularia.They are sold as fresh butmost of the imported arepacked and sold in dried forms.Among the edible mushrooms,the Shiitake mushrooms arethe most known and studied asanti cancer. They are alsopopular due to their exotictaste and high food value.

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6.. Pleurotus spp. – these are the oyster or abalone mushrooms. The temperature requirementfor growth and fruiting ranges from 15 – 30 oC, hence the choice of species to be grown dependsupon the existing temperature conditions where the mushrooms will be cultivated.

Pleurotus is one of the most popular edible mushrooms now being grown all over the world. It iscommonly cultivated not because of its unique taste but its ease of growing. Pleurotus ispopularly grown in a combination of rice bran and sawdust plus with combination of someinorganic fertilizers. They are also grown in different ways and containers such as smallpolypropylene bags or in plastic trays.

For more information, contact PROF. PATROCINIO O. MACALINAO, JR - Project Leader orPROF. ANGELITA P. MEDALLA -- Co-Project Leader -- MUSHROOM BIOTECHNOLOGYPROJECT, Research & Development Center, Rizal Technological University, Boni Avenue,Mandaluyong City, Philippines

BASIC PEST & DISEASE MANAGEMENTFOR THE ORCHID GROWER

Common complaints of orchid growers both in the rural and urban areas are theprevalence of pests and diseases attacking their plant collections. However, disease preventionand cleanliness are still the best approach, while chemical spraying is the last resort. Below aresome guidelines on preventing or minimizing orchid pest and diseases in your plants.

1. Choose plants carefully before you buy. Inspect plants parts for insect damage, presence ofpests, symptoms of viral infection, or signs of rotting. As much as possible, buy only vigorouslygrowing, healthy, pest-free, and diseases-free plants.

2. Quarantine newly acquired plants before mixing them with your collection. Designate a holdingarea in your garden, maybe in one small corner of the garden, wherein new plants will be placedfor 2-3 weeks for observation If in doubt, you may spray or drench the pot with a weak solutionof insecticide and fungicide as a propylactic. If the plants looks fine, without changes in health orappearance, then you can mix them with your other plants.

3. Wash and sterilize all pruning / cutting instruments before using them on your plants. Washthem with soap and water and then wipe it with 70% rubbing alcohol. Another way is to dippruning instruments in Saturated Tri-Sodium Phosphate (TSP) solution, which is a common

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sterilant for metal garden tools. To prepare a saturated tri-sodium phosphate (TSP) solution, add1/2 cup of TSP into 2 gallons of hot water. CAUTION The solution is very corrosive. Mix wellusing a wooden paddle. Add more TSP until some crystals remain undissolved. A saturatedsolution is necessary to inactivate viruses. Store excess solution in plastic-covered glass bottles.Make a wide-mouth bottle available in the garden, half filled with TSP, wherein you can dip yourpruning shears before cutting or dividing orchids.

4. Learn to identify the common orchid pests or diseases in your garden and consult your localOrchid club on how to control them. Make a routine spot-check protocol every week to checkstatus of your plants in the garden. Make a list of protocol or steps on what to do for certain pestor diseases in a notebook and follow it diligently.

5. Regularly check your plants. .It is unrealistic to expect to eradicate every pest and disease inthe garden. There is truth in the phrase, "they breed like flies". Insects multiply rapidly. A"terminated" adult population often leaves behind eggs or larvae. Control may mean learning tolive with a few teenage bugs.

6. Remove all dried, yellow or rotting leaves, dry leaf-sheaths, dead or broken roots and spentflowers from your orchid plant. As much as possible, remove all unnecessary parts of the plantwhere pests or diseases may harbor.

7. Spray prophylactic fungicides like Captan or Dithane on orchids during rainy season to preventrotting. Allow air movement or ventilation between plants and provide space between plants. Donot over-crowd plants together, because it will encourage rotting.

8. When in doubt, do not water. Over-watered orchids tend to rot. Water vandaceous andmonopodial orchids once a day or every other day (or adjust when necessary) and every 3 daysfor sympodial orchids.

9. Spray insecticide only when necessary. Remember that these are poisons, so take note of thecolor coding in insecticides, green the least toxic, yellow – moderate, and red tags are highlytoxic. Wear proper garments and protective clothing when using pesticides. Consult your localagricultural supplies store for available brands for particular pests or consult your local orchidclub. Always read the label of the bottle and follow dilution instruction. Wash hands or take abath after spraying. Call a doctor in case of poisoning or chemical injury.

10. Regularly fertilized plants once a week using orchid foliar fertilizer, either organic or syntheticin order to supply them with the much needed nutrients for optimum growth.

Here are some insect pest oforchids and how to control them.

(LEFT) Scales are commontraveller along with new orchids.

1. SCALES - This is one of themost frequently encounteredpest found on orchids. Lowhumidity might be a significantcontributing factor for itsprevalence. These small pestsattach to stems, leaves,

pseudobulbs, and rhizomes. They can hide under the dried sheaths, which often makes earlydetection difficult. Of the armored scales, Boisduval scales are the most common. Armoredfemales can deposit from 30-150 eggs under the armor which is round and about one millimeterin diameter. The eggs hatch in one to two weeks or longer, depending on the temperature. The

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males usually occur in clusters that look like white lint. Boisduval scales are difficult to control,and it is necessary to examine each plant at least once a week to detect a reoccurrence. 1tablespoon of Malathion, Lannate or Sevin to 1 gallon of water (plus a few drops of dishwashingliquid) is somewhat effective if the infestation sites are scrubbed (using a toothbrush) with thesolution, the entire plant is dipped in the solution, and or thereafter the plant is sprayed once amonth. Rubbing alcohol sprayed directly onto Boisduval males will kill them on contact, but doesnothing to the armored Boisduval females. As the eggs hatch underneath the armor, the scalepierces the host and causes chlorotic (yellowing) areas by extracting plant fluids. If just onearmored female is undetected, the battle to control scale will have been only temporarily "won". Inaddition, if ants are present in your growing environment, the acts can "carry" newly hatchedscales from plant to plant.

2. MEALYBUGS - These are soft-bodiedpests which look like cotton. They excretehoneydew in large amounts, and thisattracts ants. Adult females are usually ovalin shape and from 1/16 to 3/8 inches long.They have well-developed legs, and mostmealybugs can move about. Rubbingalcohol in a spray bottle will kill themealybugs on contact. They favor newgrowth, but large colonies have been foundattached to roots that are near the bottom ofthe potting medium. Insecticide sprays aregood control for this group.

3. ANTS – Ants per se are NOT orchid pest, but they do carry scales, and mealybugs. Also theyare nuisance especially the red ones that sting as they thrive inside pots. Control them byMalathion, Ant Chalks, or other insecticide spray.

4. COCKROACHES – They are not regular orchid pests, but they may visit your plants and chewyoung tender shoots or inflorescence. Control them by spraying Malathion, Sevin or Lannate.Presence of lizards (bubuli) or toads in your garden may control cockroach population. .

5. SNAILS AND SLUGS - These molluscianpests becomes active and feed at night.They leave a silvery trail of slime and oftenhiide under pots or rocks during the day.They may defoliate seedlings, eat tendershoots, including flower buds. They can becontrolled by Snail Pellet Baits, by placing 1pellet per square meter of the garden,usually on the ground, but NOT on the pots.The snails and slugs are attracted by themetaldehyde scent, lick the pellet and arepoisoned. Snails can also be collected byhand, and then crushed by food (the soundof which is a rewarding and fulfillingexperience) or placed in a can withconcentrated salt solution.

6. APHIDS - These insect pests live and feed in colonies on young growth and on buds. Theystunt plant growth and cause buds to fail to open. They may be treated with a spray of 1tablespoon of Malathion to 1 gallon of water, or sprayed with rubbing alcohol.

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7. SPIDER MITES AND FALSE SPIDER MITES - These pests are more prevalent duringsummer months. They are close relatives of ticks, spiders, and scorpions. Some species spin afine web similar to those of spiders. False spider mites can only be confirmed by examination of adamaged leaf under a microscope. However, the presence of mites can be determined byrubbing a white cloth over a suspect leaf. If mites or eggs are present, brownish streaks will beseen on the cloth. Also, there is a characteristic silver-like appearance to a leaf infested withspider mites. Spray with miticides, usually containing diazinon, dimethoate or dimite. A non-toxicmixture for red spider mites is composed of :

2 tablespoons cold water + liquid detergent1 tablespoon methyl alcohol or rubbing alcohol (isopropyl or ethanol)1 tablespoon cooking oilenough water to fill a hand plastic sprayer

These are then filtered in a cloth before being placed in a hand plastic sprayer.

9. WEEVILS – These are one ofthe most serious pests ofDendrobium, Cymbidium andVanda orchids. These are smallblack bugs with a curved snout,similar to rice weevils. They areoften difficult to control and theybore holes in pseudobulbs orstems where they lay eggs. Eggshatch into larvae which feedsinside the orchid plant and istherefore protected from insecticidespraying. Adult weevils comes outat night. Spray insecticides orhandpick weevil bugs at night using

a flashlight, or sprinkle diatomaceous earth (sand-like) in crevices of orchid leaves where theyusually hide. Another control is to spray plants with a systemic insecticide containing Carbaryl.

10. WHITE FLIES – White flies are prevalent during summer. They resembled clouds of near-microscopic snowflakes and suck the sap of orchid plants. They also attack other garden plantsand trees. The color yellow is a particular "favorite" of white flies. Growers successfully controlledthe problem by placing white fly "traps" close to any yellow colored object. The white flies becamestuck in the sticky substance like “molasses traps”. Irrigate plants more frequently during summeror use diluted Perla soap solution sprays to deter this pests. For major infestation, sprayinsecticides..

Though insect pests are major problems in orchid growing, fungal, bacterial and viral diseases doalso set in as a secondary problem after insects. It is recommended to always control insect pestproblems to minimize diseases, and also follow sanitation, limitation in watering, sterilization ofpruning utensils, fertilization and proper spacing of plants. Here are some diseases to watch outfor and possible remedies:

1. BACTERIAL ROT - This problem occurs as soft, dark brown/black areas on leaves, and isfrequently circular. On pseudobulbs, the blackened area can extend to the rhizome. This isdue to bacterial infection. Cut off infected parts and seal wounds with fungicide paste (e.g.Captan or Dithane). Sterilize pruning shear afterwards before using in other plants. Allowair-circulation around plants in the garden and limit watering.

2. LEAF SPOTS AND BLOTCHES -- Leaf-spotting fungi such as Cercospora, Septoria andPhyllosticta produce unsightly speckles and blotches on the leaves of orchids such as

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Cattleya, Dendrobium, Oncidium, and Vanda. The spots are rough to the touch. Microscopicexamination will reveal the presence of a fungal tissue with distinctive spores. Infectioncauses premature leaf fall, thus reducing plant vigor and flowering capability. Severelyinfected plants may die prematurely. To control this disease, remove and burn diseasedplant parts. Improve air circulation in the garden or nursery and spray with appropriatefungicide solution (e.g. Captan or Dithane).

3. BLACK ROT -- Black Rot is a particularly aggressive infection of Cattleyas caused by afungus, Phytophthora. This can be observed when a new shoot suddenly turns black: the rotmoves rapidly, killing the rest of the plant. A whitish 'bloom' of fungus spores may be seen onthe diseased tissue. Heat-stressed orchids are more susceptible. This disease is moreprevalent during wet weather: it is spread primarily by splashing water from plant to plantor from soil to plant This disease can be controlled by sheltering plants from excessiverain during monsoon months.. Isolate infected plants, cut and burn diseased parts.Spray or dust with appropriate fungicide

4. BLACK LEG / DRY ROT -- Dendrobiums and Vandas growing in waterlogged potting orbedding materials are susceptible to a slow but inexorable rot of the roots and stem from below.The causative fungi are Fusarium and Rhizoctonia. Pseudobulbs become spongy anddiscolored. The leaves, especially in Vanda, will yellow and drop off, one by one, until none areleft and the plant dies. Fortunately, plants can be salvaged, and uninfected pseudobulbs ofDendrobiums can be removed to allow keikis to form. If a Vanda has many aerial roots, sever thestem above the line of infection. Since the disease is caused primarily by poor culture, fungicidesare not recommended for control. Use potting / bedding materials appropriate to the plant type.Replace potting materials before they become old and waterlogged. Burn infected materials.

5. BACTERIAL SOFT ROT -- Soft rots are difficult to diagnose but whatever the causative agent,they can be devastating to an orchid collection. Orchids will be more vulnerable to infection if theyare over fertilized, given insufficient light and ventilation, and if they are permitted to remain wetespecially in the crown. Rots are a problem during the wet season, also after storms or typhoonswhen plants are bruised and leaves are torn by strong winds. Shelter susceptible plants fromexcessive rain. Be vigilant for rot during the wet season.

6. BACTERIAL SPOT ROT – These is caused by Pseudomonas and Erwinia. Symptomsincludes soft, brown, smelly, fluid-filled blisters on leaves and in the crown of Phalaenopsis,Paphiopedilum, and Catasetum. The disease is highly contagious. Crown rot will quickly kill aplant. Leaf spots can be excised or removed so that the plant can be saved. The disease can becontrolled by withholding water, improve ventilation, and removing / burning infected tissues. Becareful not to break the blisters as its sap can infect other plant parts. Reduce the amount ofnitrogen component of fertilizers, and increase the potassium component. Pot Phalaenopsisplants vertically, usually mounted on a slab, so that the crown drains freely and will not collectwater.. Use Captan fungicide.to prevent secondary fungal diseases.

7. VIRAL DISEASES - Viruses are the most dreaded diseases of orchids. There is no knowncure although some plants appear more resistant to damage than others. An infected plantremains a constant source of infection for others in a collection. Viruses can cripple, disfigure andweaken plants. Two viruses, Cymbidium Mosaic Virus (CMV) and the Odontoglossum RingspotVirus (ORSV) are transmitted solely by the grower. They are most commonly spread with acutting tool contaminated with infected sap. Other viruses are spread by insects. Bean YellowMosaic Virus is spread from infected bean plants by aphids to orchids, especially Masdevallias,then between susceptible plants if aphids infest the collection. The presence of viruses can bedetermined by laboratory testing procedures. ALWAYS STERILIZE YOUR PRUNINGINSTRUMENTS BEFORE DIVIDING PLANTS! Isolate all suspected virus-infected plants fromyou collection. Do not re-use old or used potting media.

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NOTEInsect Pests tend to build up resistance to chemicals, and thus, it is necessary to alternateproducts used for effective control. Use at least 3 types alternately, example: Malathion, Sevinand Lannate. Water plants first before spraying with pesticides. Spray early in the morning or latein the afternoon, but never in mid-noon as the heat of the sun coupled with pesticide spray willburn the plant. Always wear protective clothing when spraying insecticides or fungicides. Readand follow label instructions carefully before using.

WEEDSVarious plants will grow in containers with orchids, competing with them for fertilizer and

water. Weeds include Ferns, Peperomia, Lace Plant (Pilea), climbing vines and some monocotgrasses. The grower should be alerted to the invasion of weeds. Not only do they compete withthe orchids for space but they can also harbor pests. Remove the weeds by hand before theybecome firmly established and reproduce.

Cattleya: The Perfect Orchid for Beginners This genus Cattleya is namedafter the English orchid collectorWilliam Cattley (in early 19th century).The Cattleyas and their alliance (60 ormore species) remain to be the bestknown and most popular of all orchidsaround the world. A picture of a hugeCattleya flower always comes into mindwhenever the word orchid is mentioned.Cattleyas have long been countedamongst the best known and mostsought-after orchids because if theirbeautiful, colorful and large flowers.Their value to the nursery man hasincreased through the culture of specifichybrids and intergeneric hybrids.

However, Cattleyas are not native to the Philippines, they native only to the tropics of the WesternHemisphere, from Brazil through Venezuela, Columbia, Central America and Mexico.

Cattleyas of today actually consist of a complex group of hybrids created by combiningCattleya species or hybrids with closely related genera such as Laelia, Brassavola, Encyclia

(Epidendrum), Sophronitis, Broughtonia,Schomburgkia, Diacrium, andintergeneric hybrids likeBrassalaeliacattleya (Blc.) Laeliacattleya(Lc.)

Growth Habit

The Cattleyas have a sympodial typeof growth habit, wherein the real orchidis its rhizome, a underground horizontalstem, and new pseudobulbs grow fromeach new node. The pseudobulbs arecapable of storing water and nutrients;thus, the growth of new pseudobulbs isdependent on the previews old

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pseudobulbs.

They can be divided into two groups according to the number of leaves namely thesingle-leaved or labiata group, to which the C. labiata species belongs, with few, but relativelylarge flowers, and the twin leaved group, which has as many and somewhat smaller flowers. Asheath forms at the base of the leaves at the end of the growing period, and from this theinflorescence develops and emerge.

Cultural Requirements

Light. Matured Cattleyas grow in 60% sunlight up to full sun, provided that they are protectedfrom intense heat and light at noontime, to prevent scorching of leaves. They require light atintensities 32.29 to 53.82 klx (3000 to 5000 footcandles) and can also withstand 64.58 klx (6000fc) for short periods if a constantly moving air cools the plants (specially high tropical cloudforests). Speaking of providing light for Cattleyas, it is like the saying "expose cattleya to all thelight minus the heat. When plants are properly exposed to light, its pseudobulbs are plump andhard, light green in color, with thick leaves, flowers have strong stems, with heavy substance.Insufficient light usually produces spindly growth, thin pseudobulbs, and dark green leaves. Theymay even fail to flower. Overexposure to sun produces plant with stunted growth, yellowing toalmost bleached appearance.

Potting Techniques. Cattleya could be planted either in plastic or clay pots, and the plant haveto be properly stalked or anchored in the center of the pot using GI or copper wires. The plantmust also be tied properly into the wire stalk to prevent it from moving during watering. Stalking is

very important because insufficientlystalked plants will fail to root. A maturedplant can be divided into individual plantswith 3-4 pseudobulbs. The plants need tobe cut using a sterilized pruning shear(dipped in Chlorox solution every time anew plant is to be cut or washed in soapand water) and swabbed with 70% ethylalcohol to prevent spreading plantviruses. The wound needs to be sealedwith a fungicides paste (a teaspoon ofwater added in 2 teaspoon fungicidepowder) to prevent entry of fungaldiseases into the wound. Newly pottedplants needs to be sprayed with a rottinghormone like Hormex, Quick Root orRoot Booster to induce new roots.

Water. The rate of watering depends onlocation, wind movement, and lightintensity. Water only when the media isdry; and allow plant to dry (not bone dry)before another watering. Spraying waterall over the plant using a water hose untilthe plant is dripping wet is satisfactory.

Ventilation or wind movement is veryimportant in drying the plant. Plantsneeds to be kept dry a few hours afterwatering. Water soaked plants tend to rot.Use an industrial or electric fan to dry

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plants if wind movement is not available. Also check the water quality, since orchids prefer softwater (similar to rain water) with low total dissolved solids (TDS).

Flowering. Plants flower when mature, and when well exposed to light, and well fertilized andwatered. Some species and hybrids are photo-periodic sensitive (responds well to short day orlong day photoperiod). Cattleyas usually flower once every year, but if you have a potted plantwith several leads, then it could produce 2-4 blooms a year.

Fertilization. Cattleyas are heavyfeeders, they respond very well tofertilization. Fertilize only during activegrowth and do not fertilize during dormantperiods. Use foliar fertilizers for orchids(with trace elements and follow therecommended dilution rate in the label.Cattleyas could be fertilized 3X or onceevery week. Use balanced growingfertilizers with high Nitrogen (N) forseedlings and high in Potassium (K) orblooming fertilizers for matured plants.Wet plants with water first beforespraying dilute solutions of fertilizers.

Growing Media. Cattleyas are epiphytesand usually grow on tree trunks in their native habitat. In culture, they could grow on charcoal,croaks (broken pottery), and chopped tree fern, acacia wood, or caimito branches.

Propagation. Conventionally, Cattleyas could be propagated through division of pseudobulbs.Plants can be divided using sterile prunning shears into 3-4 pseudobulbs each and mounted onclay pots with charcoal. The fastest and efficient way of propagation is through seed culturetechnology in the laboratory. Flowers of selected plants are pollinated, and their seed capsuleare allowed to mature. Cattleya seed capsules mature in about 6 months (but also depends onspecies and hybrids). They usually contain about 50,000 to a million seeds! The seeds are thensown in the laboratory in a glass vessel with an artificial nutrient medium, when the seeds willgerminate till they become hardy seedlings in a years time. Then, they are out-planted in thenursery where they mature from 2 to 5 years.

Growing a Venus Fly Trap

The Venus Fly trap, or scientifically known as Dionaea muscipula, is the typicalcarnivorous plant that catches and digests animal prey—mostly insects and spiders. Mostly seenin science fiction books, they are sometimes given the wrong image of being large plants andcan devour humans, is certainly not true. It is actually a small to medium sized herbaceous plant,forming a rosette of four to seven leaves, which arise from a short subterranean stem that isactually a bulb-like rhizome. The plant is usually found growing in very humid or moist areas, andcan actually be grown by an amateur home gardener as long as he or she learns the plants basicrequirements. Their ability to trap insect prey is an adaptation to supply the plant with addednourishments, as they do live in nutrient deficient habitats.

Its trapping structure is formed by the terminal portion of each of the plant's leaves and istriggered by tiny hairs on their inner surfaces. When an insect or spider crawling along the leavescomes into contact with one or more of the hairs twice in succession, the trap closes. Therequirement of redundant triggering in this mechanism serves as a safeguard against the

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spurious expending of energy toward trapping other, non-living things which may not reward theplant with similar nutrition.

The leaf blade isdivided into two regions: a flat,heart shaped photosyntheticcapable petiole, and a pair ofterminal lobes hinged at themidrib, forming the trap whichis the true leaf. The uppersurface of these lobescontains red anthocyaninpigments and its edgessecrete mucilage. The lobesexhibit rapid plantmovements, snapping shutwhen stimulated by a prey.The trapping mechanism istripped when prey itemsstumble against one of thethree hair-like trichomes thatare found on the uppersurface of each of the lobes.

The trapping mechanism is so specialized that it can distinguish between living prey and non-preystimuli such as falling raindrops; two trigger hairs must be touched in succession or one hairtouched twice, whereupon the lobes of the trap will snap shut in about 0.1 seconds. The edges ofthe lobes are fringed by stiff hair-like protrusions or cilia, which mesh together and prevent largeprey items from escaping. The holes in the meshwork allow small prey to escape, presumablybecause the benefit that would be obtained from them would be less than the cost of digestingthem. If the prey is too small and escapes, the trap will reopen within 12 hours. If the prey movesaround in the trap, it tightens and digestion begins more quickly.

Speed of closing can vary depending on the amount of humidity, light, size of prey, andgeneral growing conditions. The speed with which traps close can be used as an indicator of aplant's general health.

The Venus Fly Trap is not a native of the Philippines , and is found in nitrogen-poorenvironments, such as bogs and wet savannahs, where fire increases its survivability. They aresmall in size and slow growing, the Venus flytrap tolerates fire well, and depends on periodicburning to suppress its competition. Fire suppression threatens its future in the wild. It survives inwet sandy and peaty soils. Although it has been successfully transplanted and grown in manylocales around the world, it is found natively only in North and South Carolina in the UnitedStates, specifically within a 100 mile radius of Wilmington , North Carolina . The nutritionalpoverty of the soil is the reason that the plant relies on such elaborate traps: insect prey providethe nitrogen for protein formation that the soil cannot.

Venus Fly Traps are very popular in America as cultivated plants, although they have alarge reputation for being difficult to grow. However, Venus Flytraps are safely grown in potsunder conditions that mimic those in their natural habitat.

The 'Dentate' cultivar of the venus fly trap in cultivationVenus Flytraps ideally should notbe watered with tap water as accumulated salts in tap water may kill carnivorous plants. Whilesoft water yields good growth, both distilled, reverse osmosis water or clean rain water are ideal.

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The Urban Gardener is an official electronic publication (inPDF Format) of the Plant Biotechnology Project, Research &Development Center, Rizal Technological University, BoniAvenue, Mandaluyong City, Philippines. It is publishedmonthly. For more information, please inquire thru email:rdc_rtu@yahoo.com or plantbiotech_rtu@yahoo.com andlandline (+632) 534-8267 Local 135 or Fax (+632) 534-9710.

Edited by N.R. Bautista © February 2010

The Plant Biotechnology Project Committee is composedof: Alexander B. Quilang, Norberto R. Bautista, Jovita A.Anit & Carnette C. Pulma.

Healthy Venus fly trapsmay produce blooms ofwhite flowers whenmature however, manygrowers remove theflowering stem early(2~3 inches), asflowering consumessome of the plant'senergy, and reduces therate of trap production. Ifhealthy plants areallowed to flower,successful pollinationwill result in theproduction of dozens ofsmall, shiny blackseeds, which can besown immediately orstored in the refrigerator.

Cultural Requirements for Venus Fly Trap Plants:

Grow you Venus Fly Traps in an enclosed clear glass or plastic container, similar to aterrarium. An aquarium, or an inexpensive large mineral water plastic cylinder can be an idealgrowing condition for this plant as moisture can be retained inside.

Light – Venus fly traps inside the glass or plastic container can be exposed to diffused bright light(about 50% light). Protect them from direct sun, . to avoid scorching of leaves.

Watering & Humidity – Water plants regularly by misting with rain water, soft water with TDS of100 ppm or less, water from the faucet or distilled water. Do not use mineral-rich water like fromdeep well. Grow plants inside a terrarium or an aquarium, similar how you treat terrarium plants.The soil should be kept constantly moist by placing the pot in a tray full of water, with the rootbulb of the plant allowed to be above the level of the water at least part of the time to prevent rootrot in stagnant water. There is no danger of over-watering as Venus flytraps can survive shortperiods of immersion underwater.

Potting Technique – Venus flytraps are best grown in mixtures of sphagnum peat moss and/orpeat often with the addition of sand, perlite or other inert salt free material. In local conditions, amixture of sphagnum moss, sand, and paslak can be used as potting mix. Soil pH should be inthe range of 3.9 to 4.8.

Fertilization / Feeding. As much aspossible, do not fertilize, as there is atendency to over fertilize. Somehorticulturists have experimented withgiving small amounts of fertilizer to Venusfly traps, usually diluted solutions of orchidfertilizers using cotton swabs, to theplant's foliage. Another method of fertiliserapplication is a spray bottle or pump.Beginners, however, and those withoutexpendable plants, would be wise to avoidfertilizer in favor of insects.

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Healthy Venus fly traps are entirely capable of catching their own food. However, for plants insideterrariums or containers, feeding them manually is not necessary. Feed your plants with liveinsects no larger than 1/3 of the size of the trap, as larger insects tend to have a detrimentaleffect on the plant as they often drastically shorten the individual trap's life and/or cause it to die.Algal growth near the plant is an indicator of overfeeding, as is an abundance of dead, blacktraps. 1 insect per 2 weeks maybe sufficient.

Pruning. Leaf traps die naturally as the plant grows. Dead or dried parts need to be trimmed off.

Pest & Diseases. Most plants has not much pest, specially when grown inside a bottle,aquarium or terrarium.

Propagation. Venus fly traps can be propagated by division or by seeds. Plants usually flower,and pollinated flowers produce seeds. Seeds may be sown on damp chopped sphagnum mossor paslak enclosed in a plastic disposable container. One may produce seedlings from seeds,although seedlings will take several years to mature. Efficient propagation techniques alsomakes rare species available and affordable to plant hobbyists and collectors.

A commercial grower producing hundreds of Venus fly trap plants for plant enthusiasts.These plants are botanical curiosities among children and adult alike, making them anideal “plant pet” in the home.

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Farmer's Guide to Companion PlantingBy Henrylito D. Tacio

Published in the Sun.Star Davao newspaper on February 1, 2010.

EVER heard of companion planting? It is based around the idea that certain plants can benefitothers when planted next to, or close to one another. It exists to benefit certain plants by givingthem pest control, naturally without the need to use chemicals, and in some cases they can givea higher crop yield.

Companion planting, considered to be a form of polyculture, is used by farmers and gardeners inboth industrialized and developing countries for many reasons.

Researchers have proven that by having a beneficial crop in a nearby field that attracts certaininsects away from a neighboring field that has the main crop can prove very beneficial.

Companion planting exists in a physical way. For example, tall-growing, sun-loving plants mayshare space with lower-growing, shade-tolerant species, resulting in higher total yields from theland.

Planting tall or dense-canopied plants may protect more vulnerable plants through shading or byproviding a windbreak. In some instances, the benefit is derived when companion plants providea good environment for beneficial insects, and other arthropods, especially those predatory andparasitic species that help to keep pest populations in check.

Other ways that companion planting can be beneficial is to plant a crop like legumes on an areawhere it will feed nitrogen into the soil, then it will not be necessary to use any chemical fertilizersfor the next crop.

Unfortunately, there are other plants that slow down each other's growth. These crops should notbe grown together. Experts call this phenomenon as antagonistic planting.

Now, here's a list of vegetable crops with their companion plants and antagonistic plants (culledfrom various sources):

Amaranth: A tropical annual that needs hot conditions to flourish. Good with sweet corn; itsleaves provide shade giving the corn a rich, moist root run. Also, amaranth is host to predatoryground beetles.

Ampalaya: This all-year round vegetable can be grown along with trellised lima bean, yard-longbean, and winged bean.

Asparagus: Friend of tomato, parsley, basil, and marigold. Avoid planting asparagus with onion,garlic and potato.

Basil: Plant with tomato to improve growth and flavor. Basil also does well with peppers,oregano, asparagus and petunias. It can be helpful in repelling thrips. Basil is said to repel fliesand mosquitoes.

Beans: All beans enrich the soil with nitrogen fixed from the air. Generally, they are goodcompany for carrot, celery, corn, eggplant, peas, potato, beets, radish, and cucumber. Beans aregreat for heavy nitrogen users like corn because beans fix nitrogen from the air into the soil so thenitrogen used up by the corn are replaced at the end of the season when the bean plants dieback. Keep beans away from the alliums.

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Cabbage: Potato, celery, dill, and onion are good companion plants. Celery improves growth andhealth. It does not get along with tomato, peppers, eggplant, grapes and pole sitao.

Carrot: Its pals are leaf lettuce, leek, peas, onion and tomato. Keep dill away from carrot. Onedrawback with tomato and carrot when planted together: tomato plants can stunt the growth ofthe carrots but the latter will still be of good flavor.

Cassava: It gets along well with sweet potato, swamp cabbage, pechay, alugbati, lettuce, garlic,golden squash, and peanut.

Celery: Among its companions are beans, cabbage, leek, onion, and tomato. Its foe: corn.

Corn: Grown best with amaranth, beans, cucumber, melons, parsley, peanut, peas, potato,soybean, squash, and sunflower. Keep corn away from celery and tomato plants.

Cucumber: Cucumber is great to plant with corn and beans. The three plants like the sameconditions: warmth, rich soil and plenty of moisture. Let the cucumbers grow up and over the cornplants. A great duet is to plant cucumber with sunflower. The sunflower provides a strong supportfor the vines. Cucumber also does well with peas, beets, radish, and carrot. Radish is a gooddeterrent against cucumber beetles. Dill planted with cucumbers helps by attracting beneficialpredators. Keep potato away from cucumber.

Eggplant: Plant with amaranth, beans, peas, swamp cabbage, golden squash, radish, andmarigold. Eggplant is a member of the nightshade family and does well with peppers. Avoidplanting potato near eggplant.

Garlic: This spice crop accumulates sulfur: a naturally occurring fungicide which will help in thegarden with disease prevention. Garlic is systemic in action as it is taken up the plants throughtheir pores and when garlic tea is used as a soil drench it is also taken up by the plant roots.

Lettuce: Does well with beet, bush bean, pole bean, cabbage, carrot, cucumber, onion, andradish. It grows happily in the shade under young sunflowers.

Onion: Planting chamomile with onion improves the former's flavor. Other companions: carrot,leek, beet, dill, lettuce, and tomato. Intercropping onion and leek with your carrot confuses thecarrot and onion flies! Keep onion away from peas, beans, and asparagus.

Peas: Companions for peas are bush beans, pole beans, carrots, celery, corn, cucumber,eggplant, parsley, radish, and sweet pepper. Do not plant peas with onion, garlic, and potato.

Potato: The following may be planted with potato: bush bean, cabbage, carrot, celery, corn,marigold, peas, and onion. Don't plant these around potato: asparagus, cucumber, squash, andsunflower. Keep potato and tomato apart as they both can get early and late blight contaminatingeach other.

Tomato: Grown along with asparagus, parsley, cabbage, onion, radish, garlic and carrot. Tomatoprotects asparagus from asparagus beetles while asparagus protects tomato from nematodes.Planted with garlic, the latter repels red spider mite. Don't grow potato and tomato with eachother; potato inhibits tomato growth while tomato renders potato more susceptible to blight.