Valle de jalon

7/23/2019 Valle de jalon

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Col Llama

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Echo Placa

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COSTA BLANCA - Echo Valley

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COL LLAMAThis remote part of Costa Blanca is far-removed from the hustleof the coast and many of the sea side crags. The climbing ismostly on solid rock, particularly after pitch one where it entersthe groove system. A full set of nuts and cams is needed .APPROACH (From Polop) -As for Echo Placa then continue upthe footpath to the col. The wall on your right is split by a largecorner at mid-height - this is the line of Fields of Gold.APPROACH (From Sella) -Drive up the track from the mainareas at Sella, past Sector Wildside. From here, continue for1.5km, until a casa on your left, with a sign on the road pointingto Polop. Go up this track for 2km until you are on the coloverlooking the Echo Walls area. The wall on your left is the ColLlama.

1 Name Unknown. . . . . . . .3lnx6aThe original route of this wall is a superb route which takes thelower corner then escapes left to another corner. The first pitchis vegetated and loose and the upper part of the route is solidbut thin on gear for its grade. The main groove is superb.

Start 8m right of the the steep wall below a broken slab.1) 5 (VS 4c) 35m. Climb over broken ledges to a peg at 20m.Traverse left to reach the base of the groove.2) 6a (E1 5b) 45m.Climb the groove direct (two pegs and onebolt) to the good ledge below a steep wall.3) 5 (HVS 5a) 35m. Climb the steep wall and broken grooveto reach a steeper V groove . On the left is a steep wall withslanting faults in it,climb this and the broken ground above toreach a good ledge and peg belays .4) 5 (VS 4c) 25m.Climb the slab on the left and continue directto a belay .5) 4+ (VS 4b) 30m.Climb the broken slab to reach the arete.6) 4 (VS 4b) 45m. Follow the ridge to the top.FA. May have been climbed by Joe Brown in the late 80s. It hasalso been claimed by Spanish climbers in the early 90s

2 Fields of Gold . . . . . . . . .3lnx6bA great route which is well worth the approach walk. Start at thebase of the wall, directly below the big groove, and below a smallslanting corner in the middle of the lower wall.1) 6b (E2 5c) 35m.Climb direct to the small groove (2 bolts)Enter the groove (bolt) and go up this to the roof. Climb overthis (bolt) and direct to a small ledge and bolt belay.2) 6a (E1 5b) 45m.Climb the groove (2 pegs) to a large ledgeand bolt belays.3) 5 (HVS 5a) 20m. Climb the steep wall and the broken grooveson the right (bolt) to a steep crack on the right and small ledge.4) 6b (E2 5c) 45m.Climb to the top of the crack and traverseright (bolt) to a steep ramp. Climb this (2 bolts) to a goodthread. Continue direct (peg) then ascend rightwards across theslab to a thread. Continue to traverse for a short while and thenclimb direct to a small ledge and bolt belays.5) 6b (E2 5c) 25m.On the left is a pillar with a thin crack. Climbthe slab on its right and then enter the crack. Follow this and

then the crack in the bulge above which leads to a small ledgeand bolt belay. The last bolt belay - abseil off from here or go forthe summit experience:6) 4 (VS 4b) 25m. Climb the slab on the left to the overhangingblocks and then onto the ridge proper.7) 4 (VS 4b) 40m. Continue to follow the ridge to the top.FA. R.Edwards, S.Perez 9.5.95

DESCENT -Either, abseil back down after pitch five, from the lastof the bolts belays, or continue to the top (well worth the climb)and descend south along the rim of the crags and down a screeslope and back north to the foot of the crag.


EDOK$N25 minSouth facing wall

200m multi-pitch routesBest grades - 6a+ to 7b

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ECHO PLACAThe most obvious feature of the wall is the huge dihedral onthe left-hand side. To the right of this the three cracklines of theother routes can be easily picked out.APPROACH (See page 112) -From the parking at Echo Two

continue up the track which zig-zags its way up the hill (can berough at the top) until a casa on the left with a chain across atrack (this is the path up to the climbs). Continue to drive alongthe track to until you can drop down another track on the rightto a large building with a flat section in front. Park here and walkback to the path with the chain. (The casa can also be reach fromthe other direction (see map on next page)). This is the pathleads up the valley to Echo Placa. Beneath the wall are someawkward (grade 2/3) broken ledges.

1 The Great Dihedral . . . . .2lnx7aThe left-hand corner gives this impressive route. Scrambling upleftwards to the base of the corner (50m grade 3).1) 6a (E1 5b) 50m.Climb the corners and slab to a thread belay.2) 7a (E5 6a) 50m.Climb a wide crack past a bolt. Follow thesteep corner above (bolts) to a roof. Pull over this to a belay.3) 6b (E2 5c) 40m.Continue up the corner over a small roof andcaves to a final roof. Pass this on the right and belay at a pillar.4) 40m.Climb the pillar and easier rock to the top.FA. R.Edwards, M.Edwards 1.90

2 The Forth Addition. . . . . .1lnx6b+The easiest of the routes on the wall has one short hard sectionwhich is very friggable.1) 3 (HS) 50m. Scramble up easy ground to the base of the wall.2) 4 (VS) 30m.Climb up onto a ledge and follow this leftwardsto the bottom of a corner.3) 6a (E1 5b) 25m.Follow the corner to a bolt belay.4) 6b+ or 6a+ with aid (E3 6a) 40m. Climb up then move rightinto a groove. Climb up (peg & bolt) then traverse right to a tree.Climb past the tree (or aid it using the bolts - NOT the tree).Continue up cracks to a belay.5) 6a (E1 5b) 45m. Climb the fault-line above, then move right-wards to a ledge.6) 4 (VS) 30m. Climb right to a tree then up a shattered pillar.FA. R.Edwards, S.Perez 27.3.93

3 Luna Sombre . . . . . . . . .2lnx7a (6b)A good route taking a long diagonal line across the wall. Start by

scrambling up to the base of the wall (50m grade 3).1) 4, 15m.Climb a corner top a ledge.2) 5+, 20m.Cross leftwards to a rib and traverse left into ahollow. Climb the slab to a ledge.3) 6b, 30m.Climb left and up some grooves (pegs) thentraverse delicately left to a slab. Climb this to a groove thenmove left to a corner which leads to a stance.4) 7a, 30m.Climb the groove then continue up a steep crack toa ledge.4a) 6a, 35m. The easier variant.Climb the groove then moveright into another groove. Follow this, past a bolt, to a ledge.5) 6a+, 50m.Follow the steep crack on the right and the wallabove, to a ledge.6) 3, 40m.Broken rock leads to the top.FA. R.Edwards, E.Edwards, M.Edwards 26.3.90

4 Cracks in the Sky. . . . . . .2lnx7bA good climb on perfect rock. Start by scrambling upto the base of the right-hand side of the wall (50m grade 3).1) 6a (E1 5b) 45m.Climb a corner to a pillar on the left.Continue up a crack to a ledge, then traverse left to bolt belays.

2) 7b or 6b+ with aid (E5 6b) 25m.Climb the steep wall on theleft, past 6 bolts, to a good ledge and bolt belay.3) 6c (E4 6a) 25m.Follow the steep crack above to anotherledge and bolt belay.4) 6b (E2 5c) 50m.Climb cracks on the right, then trend right tothe arete (possible belay). Continue up thin cracks to a ledge.5) 5 (HVS 5a) 35m.Ascend rightwards then follow grooves andledges to the top of the wall. Take care with loose rock.FA. R.Edwards, M.Edwards 2.90

DESCENTS -From the top go rightwards and drop down theback of the wall. This will take you down a wide gully and aroundthe base of another wall to the right. Continue down rightwardsto your starting point.

EDOK$N1 hourSouth facing wall

200m multi-pitch routesBest grades - 6a to 6b


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Approach

Nemesis onSenyera

Haunted Walls

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HAUNTED WALLSThis dramatic area has several powerful lines on perfect rock. Itdoes have a haunted and magical feel about the place since itsalways so silent and peaceful - very much like the Pinnacle Wallof Cloggy.APPROACH -From the parking described on page 114 walk (ordrive) up the hill to the col. Take a horizontal traverse SSE acrossthe hillside, heading for the end of the rocky ridge you can seein the distance. As you traverse the peaks on the left are thesummits of The Cathedral and Haunted Walls. When you havefinished the routes you descend these summits back down to

your car. When you reach the end of the ridge climb upwards toa col and descend the other side to another col. Look left andyou will see Haunted Walls with its vertical cracks and aretes.Descend easily to the base of the wall. This walk takes aboutfifteen minutes from your car.DESCENT -All routes can be abseiled but, once on the top wall,it can be more problematic to abseil than to walk off. Descenddown the NW side of the mountain, back towards the Sella track,and then down a gully and ridge to reach a scree slope. Fromhere a short walk leads back to the car.

1 The Spect re . . . . . . . . . . . . .lnx6aNot a very good route in its present state but should becomecleaner as ascents remove more of the loose rock. Start on theleft side of the wall opposite the large off width crack. The routesstarts up the wall on the left below a wide V-groove.1) 5+ (VS 4c) 20m.Climb the steep wall and then move rightand up to belay on threads below the steep groove.2) 6a (E1 5b) 45m.Climb the steep dihedral (some loose rock)to the top of a pinnacle. Bolt belay.FA. R Edwards, M Edwards 3.97

2 Cracks of Tranquillity. . . .3lnx6bOne of the best crack climbs in the area and well worth thetrouble of getting to this fantastic crag. This route climbs thethird crack from the right.1) 6a+ (5b) 27m.Climb the steep crack to a belay on the right.2) 6a+ (5b) 27m.Climb the overhanging crack on the left andthen traverse right to pass a tree. Move back left to climb thecrack and then finish up a short wall on the left to belay bolts.3) 5 (4c) 20m.Traverse left to a large block and then up to athread on a slab. Move left onto the small pillar and up this to agood ledge and bolt belay.

Cracks of Tranquillity continued....4) 6b (E3/4 5c) 45m.A great pitch. Climb onto the opposite walland follow the faint crack which gradually gets wider to full-handwidth. Pull directly over the roof to a good ledge and belay.5) 3 (Diff) 15m.Scramble over the pinnacle to the next arete.6) 6a (E2 4c) 40m.Climb the centre of the arete to the top of thecrag. Poor protection.FA. R.Edwards, Mark Bonesteel, Esabel Carcera 15.3.97

3 The Exorcist . . . . . . .3tljx6c+A very strong natural line on good rock which follows the secondcrack line from the right. There is a distinctive overhang aboutone third height.1) 6a (E2 5b) 25m.Climb across ledges below and right of the

crack to reach an ENP. Move up right into a groove (slightlysuspect rock) at the top of this groove move right again (ENP)and into the main groove. Follow this to belay bolts below theoverhang.2) 6a+ (E3 5c) 35m.Large cams or hexes are useful. Climb tothe roof then traverse the roof on the left to the vertical crack.Follow this to a ledge and bolt belays3) 6c+ (or 6a/A0) (E4 6a) 25m. 2 ENPs. Climb the crack on theright of the belay to the roof above. Climb the bulging roof aboveon its right-hand side and a thin crack free 6c+ (or 6a+ and A0).Continue up after the difficult mantelshelf to reach a bolt belaybelow some trees.Scramble through the trees and then over a small pinnacle onthe right and into a small forest. Cross this and a wide gully tothe foot of a superb arete. Bolt belays.4) 5 (VS 4c) 20 m. Climb the arete to the first staple and thentraverse left (staple) to a belay ledge. Bolts.5) 6a+ (E3 5c) 25m. Climb the shallow corner to the small roofand move left over this. Continue up the steep crack to a goodledge and bolt belay.6) 5+ (HVS 5a) 30 m. 1 ENP. Climb the wall above and continue

straight up to the trees at the top of the crag.FA. R.Edwards, M.Edwards 1.96

4 The Phantom . . . . . .3sljx6bSuperb climbing up the extreme right-hand vertical crack onperfect rock. Start at the very base of the crack by a small cave.1) 6a+ (E3 5c) 28m.This is the original start but it is quite looseand strenuous. Climb the crack until a step left brings you tothe base of the vertical crack. Climb this, passing a number ofthreads, to a good bolt belay. Or...Start just left of the natural line of the crack at a short verticalwhite wall.1a) 6a+ (E2 5c) 28 m. Climb loose but easy rocks to the footof the white wall (ENP). Climb the wall by a faint crack (ENP) togood holds which end on a steep slab. Go up this, then traverseright into the big crack. Climb the crack, passing a number ofgood thread placements, to a good ledge and bolt belays.2) 6b (E3 6a) 30m.Continue climbing the crack and move ontothe left wall at the roof. Climb direct (ENP) and up to a thread.Continue to follow the crack to a good ledge and bolt belays.3) 6a (E1 5b) 38m. Climb the steep wall left of the belay andtraverse back right into the crack. Follow this to the second oftwo tree covered ledges.4) 25m.Scramble through the trees to reach a bay on the farright.5) Phantom Arete. 6a+ (E3 5c) 50m. Climb the blunt areteabove the belay and follow the line of the arete (a few wiresneeded) to the first staple. Continue up the arete (one otherstaple and 7 ENPs). Head for the shallow groove on the left-handside of the arete. The final section of the route is again protectedby natural gear. Belay on two bolts on a good ledge on the left.6) 5 (VS 4c) 35m. Climb the wall just right of the belay and thenup ledges to the summit of the mountain.FA. R.Edwards, M.Edwards 5.6.96


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EGOK$N20 minSouth facing wall

150m multi-pitch routesBest grades - 6a to 6c


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La Capell

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WFIK$NBig east facing wall

300m routeGrade - 8a40 min

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Nemesis continued....4) 6a (E1 5b) 30m.Climb up a few meters and enter a steepcrack. Climb this and then move right when possible to enter asteep crack which leads into a shallow groove. Follow this to agood ledge and bolt belays.5) 5+ (VS 4c) 20m.Climb the crack on the left and the easierrock to a tree belay.6) Easy, 30m.Scramble up and then left to the base of an areteto the left of the gully.7) 4+ (VS 4b) 50m. Climb the steep cracks in the arete and theneasier rock into a gully. At its top climb the chimney on the rightto the top of a pillar. Climb the crack and chimney direct to agood ledge and bolt belays.8) 6a (E1 5b) 50m.Climb across to the base of the left arete andclimb this to the top of the tower.9) 4+ (VS 4b) 30m.Climb the wall direct to the top of the route.A better, but much harder, finish is:8a) 6a+ (E3 5c) 50m - Phantom Arete. Climb the blunt areteabove the belay side and follow the natural line of the arete usingnatural gear to the first staple . Continue to climb the arete ,Bolts. You are making for the shallow groove on the left sideof the arete. The final section of the route is again protected bynatural gear. Belay on two bolts on a good ledge on the left..9a) 5 (VS 4c) 35m.Climb the wall just right of the belay andthen up ledges to the summit of the mountain.FA. (Pitches 1 to 5) R.Edwards, Betty Edwards 2.96(Whole route) R.Edwards, Michael Esslinger 18.11.99

LA CAPELLAThis stunning peak is known by Spanish climbers as CimaNotario/Perea but the locals call it La Capella. Described here isone majestic long route however there are other bolted routeson this wall which we hope to have information on in the future.Check rockfax.com.APPROACH -Follow either approach to Senyera to the junctionof the paths. Continue to follow the path (or turn left if

approaching from below) until below the very impressive over-hanging dihedral which splits one side of the wall. Go to the verybase of the wall where a bolt can be seen just above the track.DESCENT -Down the wide gully behind the mountain. At thebottom traverse right back to the path. (20 mins).

3 Diedro Edwardsen la Capella. . . . .3stlnx8aThis superb, hard route takes the only weakness on this veryimpressive wall. The rock is solid, the positions and atmosphereare both exciting and spectacular. Start at the base of the wall,just above the path, directly below an overhanging groove with abolt. A full rack with wires and cams is needed.1) 6a+ (E1 5b) 25m.Follow the line of pockets (2 bolts) to aledge. Traverse left to a thread belay.2) 6b+ (E3 6a) 35m. Climb just right of the belay to a bolt. Abovethis move right then straight the wall (bolt) and continue to ashallow scoop.3) 5+ (VS 4c) 40m.Climb the pocketed slab above (well-spacedbolts) to a steep tower. Climb this (bolt) to a good ledge.4) 6c, 15m.Climb onto the wall behind the belay then traverse

right to a ledge below the large corner. Fully bolted.5) 6c+ (E4 6b) 30m.Climb the overhanging corner direct towhere it narrows (awkward past a small bush). Move right atthe top and up the slanting groove to a hanging bolt belay. Well-spaced bolts but gear also needed.6) 8a or 7b with aid (E8 or E5) 40m.Continue to follow theoverhanging groove (well-spaced bolts). Climb the steep corner(gear needed) and pass the final overhang to reach a good ledge.7) 6b (E3 5c) 20m.Climb the groove to another good ledge onthe arete.Escape can be made from here by traversing left over easy, butloose, rock (5, 100m). Or continue up the arete above (2 pitchesof 5, 75m).FA. R.Edwards, M.Edwards 2.89

WFIK$N40 minBig east facing wall

300m multi-pitch routesGrades - 6a and 6b+

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SENYERAA beautiful wall with two splendid routes on it.It is actually just around the corner from theHaunted Walls but the routes start from a muchlower level and are major full-day undertakings.APPROACH (From above) - Starting from theparking spot described on page 112. 50m furtheron is another small parking space (small cairn).Descend a faint track from this first parking spaceto an old tree then traverse the path rightwardsbelow the rock walls. You will see the Dru-shapedpeak of Senyera. When directly below the peaklook for a large boulder above the track witha small cairn. Follow the scree (less thorny)towards the gully on the left-hand side of the wall.

Nemisisstarts from the base of the wall. For LaCatedralscramble up the rocks on the right to thebase of the pillar with a groove on the left.APPROACH (From below) -From the roundaboutwith trees on the CV70, mentioned on page112, continue along the main road from about3km towards Guadalest. At a new road cutting(may change) turn left onto a hard-topped trackheading uphill. Follow this, which turns into arough track, past a sheep pen on the left, to awider area with a track leading off uphill to theright. Park here and walk up the track until apath leads off right (red paint). Follow this to aT-junction. Turn right for Senyera and walk 50muntil level with a boulder (cairn) on the left andabove the track. Keep to the scree (less thorny)and make for the gully on the left of the wall.DESCENT - Climb over the top of the mountainand down the other side, heading rightwards.Cross a gully to a steep gully going down to thebase of the mountain. The parking area in on the

right (15 mins).

1 La catedral. . . .2lnx6b+A tremendous route taking the full length of thisbeautiful rock face. Start on the right of the arete,just left of as narrow gully.1) 6a (E1 5b) 35m. Climb the broken rocks of thewide arete until a move left in made into a shallowgroove. Climb this for a short while (peg runner)then move right and up to a crack. Follow thisuntil a move right can be made to reach a smallledge and thread belay.2) 5+ (E1 5b) 25m.Climb the slab and make fora small overlap. Over this (2 bolts) and trend left to a small ledgeright of a groove. Thread and peg belay.3) 4+ (VS 4b) 20m. Climb across the groove and traverse leftand slightly downwards to a ledge and bolt belay.4) 6a (E2 5b+) 40m.Climb directly up the wall by a small groove(2 bolts) and into the upper section of the wall which is split bya series of thin cracks. Climb the centre of the wall (bolt) and theleft to reach a bolt belay.

5) 5+ (VS 4c) 25m.Climb the slab on the left into a gully, followthis and then move back left onto the arete proper. Bolt belay.6) 4 (VS 4a) 20m. Climb across broken loose rock to a cave onthe left. Bolt belay.7) 6a (E1 5b) 40m.Enter the groove on the left (bolt) and followthis over ledges and another groove to a good ledge on top of atower (escape can be made from here on the right).La catedral continued....8) 6b+ or 6a with aid (E3 or E1) 20m. Climb onto the wallopposite the tower. Follow the crack right and then move backleft to the centre of the wall. Continue straight up, then left andmake some long moves to reach a good ledge and belay.9) 4 (VS 4b) 20m. Climb the groove to a ledge.10) 4 (HS 4a) 30m. Follow the arete to the top of the mountain.FA. R Edwards and students 5.95

1 Mediterranean Wall. . . . . . . .1nx6c+A good direct start to La catederal. Start down to the left of thestart of La catederalbelow the second of two ribs.1) 6c+, 38m. Climb the rib heading for the sling high up. Passthis and make for the clean sweep of rock. Climb the faint crackand pockets to reach a hanging belay (bolts).

2) 6b, 20m. Go left to a crack and follow it moving right at thetop to a ledge and bolt belay (end of pitch 3 of La catedral).FA. R.Edwards 1993

2 Nemesis. . . . . . . . . . . . .2lnx6aA long and interesting route but with a little loose rock. Pitches6 and 7 are particularly fine. Start at the very base of the wall asyou enter the gully and on the right of the buttress.1) 6a (E1 5b) 30m.Climb the cracks in the steep slab , movingright and then left to a good ledge and belay.2) 5+ (HVS 5a) 25m. Continue up the edge of the wall passingsome small overhangs to a bolts belay on the left.3) 4 (VS 4b) 15m. Climb direct to below the orange overhangand a small ledge with a peg high up.


Another route

Phantom

Haunted Wall

Senyera

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Valle de jalon