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6 983139983151983150983156983141983150983156983155
25 High beamSt Anastasia Island
PerperikonFrom whence Kamchiya springsEscape to Leshten
issue 95ndash96 2014
PUBLISHERVagabond MEDIA
23 Budapest Street 1000 Sofia phone (+359 2) 983 3308
fax (+359 2) 983 3358editorialvagabondbg
wwwvagabondbg
MANAGING EDITOR
Anthony Georgieff anthonyvagabondbg
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR
Elena Filipova elenavagabondbg
ASSISTANT EDITOR
Jane Keating
GRAPHIC DESIGN
Gergana Shkodrova shkodrovavagabondbg
DIRECTOR OF OPERATIONS ndash
GREECE
Jeni Georgieva jenigogreecebg
MEDIA SALES
Alexandra Spiridonovaaspiridonovavagabondbg
Kristina Panayotova kristinavagabondbg
Svetlana Doncheva svetlanavagabondbg
Tsvetelina Kovacheva tsvetelinavagabondbg
Vanya Zlateva vanyavagabondbg
CONTRIBUTORS
Bozhidara Georgieva
Dimana Trankova
Dimitar Ivanov
Kristen Ghodsee
Minka Vazkresenska
Stamen Manolov
Violeta Rozov
PAPER
Cover 983090 gm2
Inner page gm2
PRINTED IN BULGARIA
Janet-45 Print amp PublishingPlovdiv
COPYRIGHT
copy Vagabond Media No partof this publication may be re-produced in any form withoutthe express written consent of
the publisher
ISSN 1312ndash8590
Unless explicitly stated the views and opinions expressed or implied in Bulgarias English
Monthly are intended for entertainment only The publisher assumes no responsibility direct or implied
for any advertising content Product s and services mentioned are subject to change without prior notice
You are strongly advised to make proper research and seek professional advice before making any financial
commitment in response to advertising material
Pursuant to Article 7a Paragraph 3 of the Bulgarian Compulsory Deposition of Printed and Other Works act
it is herewith declared that Anthony Georgieff is the sole proprietor of Vagabond Media Ltd
983145983149983152983154983145983150983156
Produced on Apple Macintosh
computer equipment only
8 983121uote-unquote
10 Jokes of the month
12 Bulgarias monthly quiz16 Interview
Lyuboslava Ruseva
24 Where in Bulgaria
58 Vagabond WorldUman Uman Rosh Hashanah
72 FictionMatthew Kneale
79 Highflights
128 Inside track
c o v e r
b y A n t h o n y G e o r g i e f f
52 Legacies of Communism Womens rights and the Cold War
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8 -
You saw whatspeculative funds did to
Argentina Argentina wentbankrupt Argentina a NATO
state a big country Wentbankrupt in one night
GERB leader BOYKO BORISOV
Probablysomewhere with
Internet coverage Prosecutor IVAN GESHEV on the whereabouts
o svetan Vasilev owner o CorporateCommercial Bank
The prosecutionis for hire Some peoplehire prosecutors just like
others hire hitmen Political s cientis t EVGENIY DAYNOVLets support
charities dedicatedto children withalthuism
GERBrsquos TSVETAN TSVETANOV
My enemies have letthe genie out of the bottle
Whoever wants to rule the statewill have to beg me
NIKOLAY BAREKOV ex journalist and lea der o Bulgaria Without Censorship
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1110
Bulgaria Without Censorships Nikolay Barekov went to see a clairvoyantand asked Tell me madam will I become prime minister
The old woman looked at him from head to toe touched his foreheadlooked at his tongue and his eyeballs took his pulse and said You willson you will You will also become Napoleon Julius Caesar Alexander theGreat
A businessman went to apply for a government contract under the PublicContract Acts The clerk looked at his application and asked Does yourcompany have 983089983088 years of experience
Yes the businessman answeredThe clerk put down a note and asked againYour company has already won 983089983093 government contracts which it has
completed successfully rightYes the businessman answered
The clerk paused wiped his forehead and inquired Does your companyhave foreign consultants
Yes the businessman repliedThe clerk sighed shook his head and looked at the businessman over his
glassesIm sorry but we cannot even admit you to take part in the competitionBut why the businessman asked in amazement What condition do we
not fulfilThe clerk put his finger down on the application Well you fail the most
important conditionAnd what is it the businessman inquiredThe name of the manager of your company is not Gadyo Vutov Gadev
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15
galleryloranyahoocom
wwwgallerylorancom
L O R A N G A L L E R Y
Petar Kolev Spring at Vratsa 1971oil canvas 10082 cm
Nevena Gancheva September the 1960soil canvas 100695 cm
Vladimir Dimitrov ndash MaystoraPortrait of Georgi Dimitrov oil canvas 97835 cm
Vasil Evtimov Down With Race Segregation 1944oil canvas 4857 cm
Kiril Mayski Brigadiers the 1950swatercolour paper 72895 cm
Sofia 16 Oborishte St(entrance from Vasil Aprilov Street)
Monday-Saturday from 11 am to 7 pm
Sunday from 11 am to 6 pmphone 02 483 0877
The diverse collection includes many
genres and styles and is representative
for the period The earliest exhibits are
the All for the Frontline All for the Victory
sketch by Vladimir Dimitrov ndash Maystora
and Down With Race Segregation by VasilEvtimov Specific attention deserves
the oil portrait of dictator Georgi
Dimitrov painted by Maystora in his
trademark style The exhibition includes
compositions dedicated to the
Brigadier Movement the
collectivisation of the agrarian lands
and the 1923 September Uprising An
accent not only because of its size is apainting by Ioan Leviev denouncing the
Pinochet regime in Chilli
The main message of the exhibition
is that the art of the period deserved
not only to be remembered but also to
be surveyed and cherished The Loran
Art Gallery is aware of the controversy
of the exhibition but it stands by itbelieving that history whatever it was
should be known and remembered
Socialist orTotalitarian Art
9 September ndash 9 October
2014
L O R A N G A L L E R Y
The current exhibition of Loran Art
Gallery is provoked by art in Socialist
Bulgaria created between 9 September
1944 and 10 November 1989 Bulgarians
still struggle with their understandingsof the period trapped between sweet
nostalgia and memories for violation
of basic human r ights The notion towards
Socialist art is equally ambiguous
In such an atmosphere it is hardly a
surprise that only two months after
Loran Art Gallery nurtured the concept
for the exhibition the gallery gatheredmore pieces of Socialist art than it could
accommodate on its premises So the
online exhibition in the gallerys website
is much richer than the actual one
The Socialist or Totalitarian Art exhibition
doesnt aim to vindicate the art of the
period or to celebrate the 70th anniversary
of the Communist coup The gallery wantsto demonstrate that the useless propaganda
art of the past today holds a significant
artistic and market value
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16 17
Analyst Lyuboslava Ruseva dissectsBulgarias politics as BoykosGERB prepare to return to power
interview and photography by Anthony Georgieff
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24 25
by Stamen Manolov
High Beam is a series of articles initiated by Vagabond Magazine with the generous support
of the America for Bulgaria Foundation that aims to provide details and background of places
cultural entities events personalities and facts of life that are sometimes difficult to understandfor the outsider in the Balkans The ultimate aim is the preservation of Bulgarias cultural heritage ndash
including but not limited to archaeological cultural and ethnic diversity
Email your answers toeditorialvagabondbg
and you can win a copy o
Wall-to-WallPoetry of Europe Vagabonds guide
to the poetry walls o Soia
This is possibly the biggest Communist-era monstrosity in
Bulgaria outshining even the Flying Saucer congress hall-cum-temple at Buzludzha It was erected in 983089983097983096983089 as part of amegalomaniacal project masterminded by Todor Zhivkovsdaughter to mark the 9830893983088983088th anniversary of the foundation ofthe Bulgaria state an euphemism for pumping up nationalismNow at least 3983088983088983088983088 tons of concrete stand exposed to theelements above a large Bulgarian city but unlike Buzludzhathis monument has not been abandoned The local city councileven charges entry fees to let you go into it A particular
favourite to Japanese and Israeli tourists (but for completelydifferent reasons)Where in Bulgaria are you
copy A n t h o n y G e o r g i e ff
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26 27
by Bozhidara Georgieva photography by Anthony Georgieff
Former monastery prisonbecomes tourist attraction
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30 31
This publicity did not have any impact on the island itself In the983089983097983094983088s Bolshevik Island became a place of recreation for the artisticcircles of Burgas but the buildings fell into disrepair and soon theonly thing still intact on the island was the lighthouse The currentlighthouse which was supplied with electricity as late as the 983089983097983094983088sdates back to 983089983096983096983097 with a major facelift in 983089983097983089983092
After the democratic changes of 983089983097983096983097 Bolshevik Island became StAnastasia Island once more The regular boat services however were
discontinued and decay overtook the former monastic and prisonbuildings St Anastasia became a ghostly place which a handful of visitors per year could reach only if they hired a fisherman to bringthem to the island A basic tavern provided even more basic foodand the more adventurous slept in the dilapidated rooms of themonastery
The desolation and decay of St Anastasia are captured withdocumentary precision in Kamen Kalevs 1048626983088983089983089 feature movie he
Island
In 1048626983088983089983092 however the Burgas City Council completed a majorreconstruction project on the island The monastery buildingshave been restored and renovated there is better accommodationfor visitors who decide to spend the night on the island and therestaurant has been improved and the tourist infrastructure includesa small museum and a medieval pharmacy where local herbs aregrown
Reaching the island is easier with regular boats leaving several timesa day from the renovated Burgas Pier The crossing takes under an
hour and makes for a lovely day trip out of Burgas The St AnastasiaIslands turbulent history seems to have been provided with a happyending
1 The lighthouse of St Anastasia
Island was built in the 1880s by a
French company but the tower is
from 1912 In the waters nearby
stands one of the geological
curiosities of the island The
Mushroom rock
2 The regular tourist boats to StAnastasia start from the renovated
pier of Burgas
3 Founded in the 16th Century
the monastery and its church
suffered heavily from pirate
raids and were renovated at the
beginning of the 19th Century In
1923 the monastery was turned
into a prison
4 Rusting remains from periods
of desolation Today St Anastasiais a welcoming place with a nice
restaurant and a multimedia
museum
1 3
4
2
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32
Magical Rhodope site tells storieso Dionysus Alexander the Great
and Augustus
by Bozhidara Georgieva photography by Anthony Georgieff
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Covering more than 983093 square kilometres Perperikon is the biggestmegalithic site in the Balkans
The first people arrived here 983096983088983088983088 years ago and carved the rocksso they could fill the crevices with fragments of pots as offerings tothe unknown deities or spirits they believed in Then these people
disappeared from Perperikon After a hiatus of about 983089983088983088983088 years atthe end of the 983093th and the beginning of the 983092th millennia BC thehill again became the focal point of religious activity In the 983089983096th-9830891048626thcenturies BC the sanctuary was already so extensive and famous thatartefacts belonging to the Minoan and Mycenaean civilisations arenow found there
Perperikon experienced a decline in the 983092th-983089st centuries BCbut when the Romans took over Thrace activity resumed and newbuildings adorned the hill In the 983094th Century however Christianity
took over and the sanctuary was abandoned Unlike other pagansacred places in the Balkans Perperikon did not fall completelysilent
Christians moved into the empty shrines built churches over themand turned Perperikon into the stronghold of local bishops It allcame to an end in 98308939830941048626 when the Ottomans invaded and people leftPerperikon for good leaving the hill to nature which soon swallowedup the remains of the churches and the Thracian shrines
The site was rediscovered by archaeologists in the 1048626983088th Century
but Perperikon only became a household name in the early 1048626983088983088983088s when excavations started again and the theory that it had belonged tothe Oracle of Dionysus was promoted as a proven fact
Previous spread Remains of cult
pits and graves in the bedrock
Perperikon was built on solid rock
so the bases of each building and
even the graves were hewn in
the stone
Deciphering the traces in the
bedrock is not easy Some believe
that the pits covering the surface
of Perperikon were only for ritual
purposes Actually most weremade to support columns of
buildings or to store food and
liquids
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Major river breaks outin Stara Planina heading
towards Black Seaby Minka Vazkresenska photography by Anthony Georgieff
How to define the source of a river is often a tough question toanswer Is it where water springs from the ground for the first timeor is it the place where two or more streams merge into a larger flowEven the source of the Danube Europes largest river is contentiousat least three springs claim to be the beginnings of the mighty river
The Kamchiya River is no exception Theoretically it is only983092983094 kilometres long and flows through northeastern Bulgaria before joining the Black Sea at a particularly beautiful and terrifyinglymosquito-infested forest With its major tributary the Golyama orGrand Kamchiya the river is 1048626983092983092 kilometres long making it the983096th longest river in Bulgaria The official source of the GolyamaKamchiya ndash and of the Kamchiya ndash is in the Lisa Planina at analtitude of about 983095983089983088 metres above sea level
But there is a spot high up in the Stara Planina on the border ofits central and eastern parts which has gained popularity as the truesource of the Kamchiya It is where the second major tributaryof the river confusingly called the Luda or Crazy Kamchiya springsup as a tiny stream runs eastwards for 1048626983088983088 kilometres and joins theGolyama Kamchiya The Luda Kamchiya is the 983089983088th longest river inBulgaria
The popularity of the Luda Kamchiyas spring as the genuinebeginning of the Kamchiya River (are you already confused)
is probably due to its location It is in a pleasant and historicallysignificant spot the Vratnik Pass connecting Veliko Tarnovo andElena to the north with Sliven south of the Stara Planina
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Situated at an altitude of 983089983088983097983095 metres above sea level and being 983089983088kilometres long the Vratnik Pass used to be a main route through themountain The Romans built a road along it and in the Middle Agesa strong fort guarded it a frequent site of battles between Bulgariansand Byzantines The importance of the pass was mirrored in its nameZhelezni Vrata and Demir Kapiya mean Iron Gates in Bulgarian andTurkish resepctively The modern-day name of the pass Vratnik wasadopted in 9830899830979830921048626 and just means Gate
Today the pass is almost deserted as most drivers prefer to avoid thenarrow potholed road which zigzags through a thick forest Even insummer when you stop at the highest part of the pass to look for theKamchiyas source you will most probably find the place empty
Actually empty means empty of tourists The forest around thespring is the temporary home of of some Gypsies families dealing with lumberjacking and mushroom-pickingTheir ragged tents madeof old blankets and sheets of nylon are all over the place as are theheaps of household garbage
The scenery becomes almost surreal when mist descends drenchingthe forest in white and leaving only the dark trunks of the closesttrees visible
The Luda Kamchiyas spring is east of the road in a depressionhidden by tall trees Spectacular it is not as it is fed into a waterfountain The water fountain inscription however is grandiose Tothose fallen for freedom Glorify their sacred feat you unendinglyflowing Kamchiya
There is some justification for this Only 1048626 kilometres east of thespring is Aglikina Polyana or Aglikas Meadow where the Bulgarianhayduti or 983089983097th Century rebels used to meet They lived in themountains as far away from the Ottoman authorities as possibleexcept for when they attacked and robbed Ottoman convoys at the pass
Aglikina Polyana is heavily represented in Bulgarian heroic folklorehas a protected area status and hosts a regular folklore meeting
You can visit Aglikina Polyana from here but in any case be sure to
kneel at the water fountain which is the source of the Luda Kamchiyaand take a drink It is not that often that you can drink the cool clear waters of a river at its source
Top Semi-wild horses roam freely
around the Vratnik Pass
Bottom The beginnings of a 200-
kilometre Luda Kamchiya river
46 47
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Remote village pro983158idesunspoilt old-time atmosphere great ood by Violeta Rozova photography by Anthony Georgieff
Rural tourism in Bulgaria was barely known 1048626983088 years ago butin the early 1048626983088983088983088s it experienced an EU-funded boom But in thelate 1048626983088983088983088s the still ongoing economic crisis hit and now manyguesthouses are struggling to survive with the decreased numberof visitors In the western fringes of the Rhodope however is atraditional village which is still one of the best places for ruraltourism in Bulgaria
Leshten close to Gotse Delchev actually invented rural tourismin Bulgaria Since the mid-983089983097983097983088s it has been the first choice for anescape from the big city for all those interested in clean air delicioushealthy food and genuinely and intelligently preserved architecture
Truth to tell Leshten is hardly a village nowadays Only 983089983088 peoplelive there and most of them are septuagenarian In the 983089983097th and thefirst half of the 1048626983088th centuries however Leshten was a bustling placehome to more than 983093983088983088 people Unlike the inhabitants of nearbyKovachevitsa who built three- and four-storey mini fortresses to
protect their riches the people of Leshten were poor They had lessto lose and so they built houses of only two floors The ground level was for the livestock and the one above for the families
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Top A statue of two icecream
cones
Bottom The Buzludzha complex is
famous for its ghastly atmosphere
32
4
Kovachevitsa and Leshten both began to lose inhabitants at a greatrate after the Communist coup of 983089983097983092983092 when industrialisation andforced collectivisation striped the villagers of their livelihood andforced them to seek jobs in cities Kovachevitsa as a much grander village attracted the attention of Bulgarian film-makers in the 983089983097983095983088sand experienced a wave of new settlers mostly Sofia intellectuals who bought holiday homes there
Leshten was rediscovered much laterIn the mid-983089983097983097983088s a couple from Sofia found themselves in the
village with its ghostly and abandoned old houses They fell in love with Leshten as it had an unexpected advantage over crowd-pulling
Kovachevitsa Kovachevitsa is deep in the mountains and does nothave much of a vistaLeshten however has a marvellous view over the valley of the
Mesta River with the blue slopes of the Pirin defining the horizon983121uite unusually for the mid-983089983097983097983088s when everyone was either
leaving Bulgaria or flocking to Sofia where job prospects were betterthe couple moved to Leshten They bought some of the houses andturned them into holiday lets while preserving as much as possiblethe traditional architecture and opened one of the best restaurants
in Bulgaria This was in the long-disused local school next to thebeautiful and tiny St Paraskeva Church which dates from 9830899830963983094 and iscovered inside with primitive but captivating murals
1
1 The key to your room Each
detail in the 200-year old Leshten
houses has been preserved
2 3 The St Paraskeva Church
was built in 1837 and has been
listed as a local monument of
culture
4 Having breakfast while enjoying
the view to the Mesta Valley and
the Pirin is one of Leshtens many
pleasures
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The food in the tavern was locally sourced long before this became
fashionable Almost everything on the menu comes from the areafrom the wild berry juice and the thick sheeprsquos yoghurt to thetraditional egg noodles and the meatballs which are prepared not ofmince but of finely chopped meat
The restored traditional houses are on a par with the foods qualityIntelligently preserved yet having mod cons they smell of ageing wood geraniums and of woollen rugs warmed by the sun The wallsare whitewashed white linen curtains with embroidery shade the windows and the slightly crooked beams of the floor squeak quietly
under your feetRecently however more people decided to profit on Leshten
More houses were turned into hotels and as the competition grewone night the old school caught fire and burned to the ground Thetavern was re-established in a newer building with a beautiful viewof the Mesta Valley The food is still gorgeous the best the Rhodopeand the people living in these beautiful mountains can give you
This series of articles is supported by theAmerica for Bulgaria Foundation The
statements and opinions expressed herein
are those of the authors and do not necessarily
reflect the opinion of the America for Bulgaria
Foundation and its partners
1 Stone was used extensively in
building the houses of Leshten
and even the roofs are f rom rock
The technique was popular in
Bulgaria until the beginning of
the 20th Century but was later
abandoned It has been enjoying
a revival in recent years as surge
of interest in eco tourism has
brought it back to fashion
2 Leshten is a good basefor exploring of the Western
Rhodope with traditional villages
like Kovachevitsa and Dolen and
pristine wild nature all around
3 Fresco from St Paraskeva
Church with a didactic scene
advertising the advantages of
pious life
3
1
2
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Case study of senior Communist offi cialElena Lagadinova reveals unexpectedaspects of superpower confrontation
by Kristen Ghodsee all photographs courtesy of the author
One of the great ironies of the Cold War is that the twosuperpowers often championed issues that they cared little aboutin practice The East bloc defended the social rights of the worldrsquos workers while treating their own citizens like indentured servantsThe United States campaigned for political freedoms abroad whilebrutally oppressing or marginalising their own African-Americanand Native American populations at home Any rhetoric thatcould be deployed against the enemy became a weapon in the widerideological battle
Today historians and social scientists are studying the internationallegacies of these Cold War rivalries over social and politicalrights Whether it is labor conventions at the International LaborOrganisation political self-determination for previously colonisedcountries or the end to state-sanctioned racial discrimination in theUnited States or in apartheid-era South Africa the general scholarlyconsensus is that ordinary people ndash whether in the capitalist
Communist or developing worlds ndash benefitted from superpowercompetition An unintended consequence of American and Sovietgrandstanding was often real social progress
1
2
2
4
54
6 7
1 Elena The Amazon
Lagadinova in 1945
2 With Valentina Tereshkova
3 Delivering a speech in 1970
4 With the US activist Angela
Davis in 1972
5 Hosting a school for African
women leaders in Sofia in 1982
6 Lagadinova (left) with an
young Irina Bokova (right) at
the Third UN Conference on
Women in Nairobi in 1985
7 In Razlog with Kristen
Ghodsee in 2013
3
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Tousands o Hassidim gatherin Ukrainian city to celebrate
Jewish New Year by Dimana Trankova photography by Anthony Georgieff
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Dusty and drab devoid of any charm unless you count the 983089983096thCentury Sofyivka Park and the Georgian cheese pastries at the busstation the Ukrainian city of Uman would be a strong contender forthe most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe
But it is not the most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe ndash atleast not for a couple of days each year when it gets filled with joyfulcrowds of Ultra religious Jews flown in from as far as Canada BritainIsrael and Australia to celebrate the Jewish New Year usually inSeptember They all converge at Pushkin Street take out their heavyluggage and drag it to their rented rooms in small houses and tallSocialist apartment blocks Music is booming the smell of cookedfood comes from the tents of the openair eateries Happy people inthe streets greet each other smiling from ear to ear when they meetand embrace some old friend
Uman a city of roughly 983097983088983088983088983088 residents in western Ukraine is thefocus of pilgrimage for Hasidic Jews who come here to celebrate atthe tomb of one of their greatest spiritual leaders
Rebbe Nachman (9830899830959830951048626-983089983096983089983088) of Breslov was the great-grandson ofBaal Shem Tov the founder of Hasidism a conservative movementthat spread among the Ashkenazi Jews in Eastern Europe He showedthe first signs of having a special connection with the divine as earlyas 983089983095 and spent the next decades of his life moving around the areaof what is now western Ukraine and eastern Poland attractingfollowers Rebbe Nachmans travels even brought him to Palestine where he met and talked with prominent Jewish sages and scholars
In 9830899830969830881048626 he settled in Bratslav (as Breslov is more commonlyknown) and announced the creation of a new movement ofHasidism the Breslov Hasidism
When pilgrimage to Rebbe
Nachmans grave resumed in
the early 1990s the locals ofUman were amazed by the Rosh
Hashanah antics of visiting Jews
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Rebbe Nachman was incredibly popular but not everyone
liked him because of some of his more radical ideas one of whichencouraged people to feel free to find spiritual leaders for themselvesand to break with the tradition of the hereditary Hasidic dynastiesRebbe Nachman also encouraged the individual search for the divineHis teachings spread during tumultuous times The beginning of the983089983097th Century saw the spread of democratic ideas across Europe andfor the first time in centuries Jews enjoyed ndash at least theoretically ndashequal rights Many chose fuller integration into the modernEuropean society but for more conservative Jews these changesthreatened the foundation of their communities The teachingsof Rebbe Nachman were a sort of reaction to this trend blendingtradition with more individual freedom
Whether Rebbe Nachman thought of himself as a Messiah is stilla matter of dispute Some phrases from his teachings would makegreat Facebook quotes in todays era of soul-searching and positivethinking such as If you believe that you can damage then believethat you can fixrdquo or You are never given an obstacle you cannotovercome
In Breslov Rebbe Nachman saw his movement flourish andgrow with great crowds of followers assembling for feasts like RoshHashanah Chanukah or Shavuot when they eagerly listened to histeachings In 983089983096983089983088 however he had to move
Consumption had been devouring the still young Rebbe Nachmanfor some time and then his house was destroyed by fire He movedto nearby Uman a town of great significance for the local Jewishcommunity In 983089983095983094983096 about 1048626983088983088983088983088 Jews from Uman along withmany Poles and Uniate Ukrainians were killed by the UkrainianHaidamak rebels who had risen against the then Polish-LithuanianCommonwealth
1 Selling Rebbe Nachman-
themed techno music on Pushkin
Street
2 For many Breslov Hasidim the
pilgrimage is also an opportunity
to meet old friends and make
new ones
3 Rebbe Nachman is the
descendant of Baal Shem Tov the
founder of Hasidism a branch
of Orthodox Judaism wheremysticism is at the foundation of
spirituality
3
1
2
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Over the following two decades the Rosh Hashanah gatheringin Uman became ever stronger On average about 983089983088983088983088983088-983089983093983088983088983088Hasidim come to celebrate each year The atmosphere is festive in thestreets and tense around the grave of Rebbe Nachman and peopleare generally friendly even when they notice the odd tourist in thecrowd Many of the pilgrims get tipsy and dance to rave and rock
music booming from stalls gardens and balconies Children runto and fro carrying presents bought from the ramshackle openairmarket
There are signs however that these people are not the average partygoers The song lyrics are devoted to Rebbe Nachman Umanand Rosh Hashanah Shofars howl and the streets are lined withbarbers shaving the heads of pilgrims in the traditional way The posters on the walls announce the scheduled flights to and fromUman and the crowd is predominantly male
Sometimes there is violence Many locals are not happy with the pilgrims and the fact that many Hasidim have bought propertiesaround Pushkin Street introducing their very specific lifestyle Thereare complaints about the noise and the rubbish and the level ofsecurity 1048626983088983089983088 is remembered for several sometimes bloody fightsbetween locals and pilgrims Overall though visiting Uman for RoshHashanah can turn into the experience of a lifetime even for people with only a faint interest in Judaism The event is an immersion in abygone era right amid the post-Soviet reality of Ukraine
In 1048626983088983089983092 Rosh Hashanah begins at sunset on 1048626983092 September andends at nightfall of 1048626983094 September
Top After decades of
prosecution pilgrimage in Uman
is again safe and many children
mingle in the crowd
Bottom A Jewish boy tries his
brand new plastic gun bought
as a New Years present froma makeshift openair market in
Uman
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983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150 984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143Stara Zagora50 Han Asparuh St Zagorka lakephone 042 985 555 042 985 555
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983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150983123983156983137983154983137 983130983137983143983151983154983137
Липи прави улици и дружелюбна
атмосфера в един от най-интересните градове на България
текст Димитър Ивановфотография Антони Георгиев
by Dimitar Ivanovphotography by Anthony Georgieff
Lindens straight streets and
fiendly atmosphere in one o themost interesting cities o Bulgaria
984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143984097984130984112984128984112 984087984112984115984126984128984112
Когато се чудите накъде да тръгнете в първите топлидни на есента Стара Загора е едно от най-добрите ре-шения Отдалечен на 10486263983088 км по магистрала Тракияградът е изключително близо за онези които живеят вСофия и предлага много повече спокойствие и зелени-на от столицата дружелюбна атмосфера приятни заве-дения и исторически и природни забележителностикоито да запълнят кратката ви ваканция
Стара Загора е един от най-старите градове в ЕвропаПървите хора се заселили тук около VII-VI хилядоле-тие пр Хр Около IV впрХр на мястото на съвремен-на Стара Загора се появява град на траките известен с
When you are wondering where to go for the first warm days of the autumn Stara Zagora is one of the bestsolutions About 10486263983088 km on the Trakiya Motorway thecity is close enough for those living in Sofia and offersmore serenity and greenery than the capital The city hasalso nice cafeacutes and restaurants and enough historical andnature sites to fill a short holiday
Stara Zagora is one of the oldest cities in EuropeThe fist people settled in the area around the 983095-983094thmillennia BC Around the 983092th Century BC on the placeof modern Stara Zagora appeared a settlement of theThracians which was called Beroe It was conquered by
phone 042 985 555 042 985 555reservationshotelstarazagoraeu
wwwhotelstarazagoraeu
The fi ve-star Park Hotel Stara Zagora is situated on the bank of the romantic Zagorka Lake in Stara Zagora
Hotel with 31 luxurious rooms two luxurious apartments and one VIP apartment
State-of-the-art SPA centre with swimming pool jacuzzi fitness hall steam bath sauna
Turkish bath and massage room
Six conference rooms with capacity between seven and 250 people equipped with multimedia
and other presentational technique and tools Orfeida Restaurant with amazing interior and a capacity for up to 150 people plus a summer and a winter garden
Park for biking fishing boating jogging and other sports and activities
All dreams lead toPark Hotel Stara Zagora
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
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where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
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6 983139983151983150983156983141983150983156983155
25 High beamSt Anastasia Island
PerperikonFrom whence Kamchiya springsEscape to Leshten
issue 95ndash96 2014
PUBLISHERVagabond MEDIA
23 Budapest Street 1000 Sofia phone (+359 2) 983 3308
fax (+359 2) 983 3358editorialvagabondbg
wwwvagabondbg
MANAGING EDITOR
Anthony Georgieff anthonyvagabondbg
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR
Elena Filipova elenavagabondbg
ASSISTANT EDITOR
Jane Keating
GRAPHIC DESIGN
Gergana Shkodrova shkodrovavagabondbg
DIRECTOR OF OPERATIONS ndash
GREECE
Jeni Georgieva jenigogreecebg
MEDIA SALES
Alexandra Spiridonovaaspiridonovavagabondbg
Kristina Panayotova kristinavagabondbg
Svetlana Doncheva svetlanavagabondbg
Tsvetelina Kovacheva tsvetelinavagabondbg
Vanya Zlateva vanyavagabondbg
CONTRIBUTORS
Bozhidara Georgieva
Dimana Trankova
Dimitar Ivanov
Kristen Ghodsee
Minka Vazkresenska
Stamen Manolov
Violeta Rozov
PAPER
Cover 983090 gm2
Inner page gm2
PRINTED IN BULGARIA
Janet-45 Print amp PublishingPlovdiv
COPYRIGHT
copy Vagabond Media No partof this publication may be re-produced in any form withoutthe express written consent of
the publisher
ISSN 1312ndash8590
Unless explicitly stated the views and opinions expressed or implied in Bulgarias English
Monthly are intended for entertainment only The publisher assumes no responsibility direct or implied
for any advertising content Product s and services mentioned are subject to change without prior notice
You are strongly advised to make proper research and seek professional advice before making any financial
commitment in response to advertising material
Pursuant to Article 7a Paragraph 3 of the Bulgarian Compulsory Deposition of Printed and Other Works act
it is herewith declared that Anthony Georgieff is the sole proprietor of Vagabond Media Ltd
983145983149983152983154983145983150983156
Produced on Apple Macintosh
computer equipment only
8 983121uote-unquote
10 Jokes of the month
12 Bulgarias monthly quiz16 Interview
Lyuboslava Ruseva
24 Where in Bulgaria
58 Vagabond WorldUman Uman Rosh Hashanah
72 FictionMatthew Kneale
79 Highflights
128 Inside track
c o v e r
b y A n t h o n y G e o r g i e f f
52 Legacies of Communism Womens rights and the Cold War
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8 -
You saw whatspeculative funds did to
Argentina Argentina wentbankrupt Argentina a NATO
state a big country Wentbankrupt in one night
GERB leader BOYKO BORISOV
Probablysomewhere with
Internet coverage Prosecutor IVAN GESHEV on the whereabouts
o svetan Vasilev owner o CorporateCommercial Bank
The prosecutionis for hire Some peoplehire prosecutors just like
others hire hitmen Political s cientis t EVGENIY DAYNOVLets support
charities dedicatedto children withalthuism
GERBrsquos TSVETAN TSVETANOV
My enemies have letthe genie out of the bottle
Whoever wants to rule the statewill have to beg me
NIKOLAY BAREKOV ex journalist and lea der o Bulgaria Without Censorship
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1110
Bulgaria Without Censorships Nikolay Barekov went to see a clairvoyantand asked Tell me madam will I become prime minister
The old woman looked at him from head to toe touched his foreheadlooked at his tongue and his eyeballs took his pulse and said You willson you will You will also become Napoleon Julius Caesar Alexander theGreat
A businessman went to apply for a government contract under the PublicContract Acts The clerk looked at his application and asked Does yourcompany have 983089983088 years of experience
Yes the businessman answeredThe clerk put down a note and asked againYour company has already won 983089983093 government contracts which it has
completed successfully rightYes the businessman answered
The clerk paused wiped his forehead and inquired Does your companyhave foreign consultants
Yes the businessman repliedThe clerk sighed shook his head and looked at the businessman over his
glassesIm sorry but we cannot even admit you to take part in the competitionBut why the businessman asked in amazement What condition do we
not fulfilThe clerk put his finger down on the application Well you fail the most
important conditionAnd what is it the businessman inquiredThe name of the manager of your company is not Gadyo Vutov Gadev
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15
galleryloranyahoocom
wwwgallerylorancom
L O R A N G A L L E R Y
Petar Kolev Spring at Vratsa 1971oil canvas 10082 cm
Nevena Gancheva September the 1960soil canvas 100695 cm
Vladimir Dimitrov ndash MaystoraPortrait of Georgi Dimitrov oil canvas 97835 cm
Vasil Evtimov Down With Race Segregation 1944oil canvas 4857 cm
Kiril Mayski Brigadiers the 1950swatercolour paper 72895 cm
Sofia 16 Oborishte St(entrance from Vasil Aprilov Street)
Monday-Saturday from 11 am to 7 pm
Sunday from 11 am to 6 pmphone 02 483 0877
The diverse collection includes many
genres and styles and is representative
for the period The earliest exhibits are
the All for the Frontline All for the Victory
sketch by Vladimir Dimitrov ndash Maystora
and Down With Race Segregation by VasilEvtimov Specific attention deserves
the oil portrait of dictator Georgi
Dimitrov painted by Maystora in his
trademark style The exhibition includes
compositions dedicated to the
Brigadier Movement the
collectivisation of the agrarian lands
and the 1923 September Uprising An
accent not only because of its size is apainting by Ioan Leviev denouncing the
Pinochet regime in Chilli
The main message of the exhibition
is that the art of the period deserved
not only to be remembered but also to
be surveyed and cherished The Loran
Art Gallery is aware of the controversy
of the exhibition but it stands by itbelieving that history whatever it was
should be known and remembered
Socialist orTotalitarian Art
9 September ndash 9 October
2014
L O R A N G A L L E R Y
The current exhibition of Loran Art
Gallery is provoked by art in Socialist
Bulgaria created between 9 September
1944 and 10 November 1989 Bulgarians
still struggle with their understandingsof the period trapped between sweet
nostalgia and memories for violation
of basic human r ights The notion towards
Socialist art is equally ambiguous
In such an atmosphere it is hardly a
surprise that only two months after
Loran Art Gallery nurtured the concept
for the exhibition the gallery gatheredmore pieces of Socialist art than it could
accommodate on its premises So the
online exhibition in the gallerys website
is much richer than the actual one
The Socialist or Totalitarian Art exhibition
doesnt aim to vindicate the art of the
period or to celebrate the 70th anniversary
of the Communist coup The gallery wantsto demonstrate that the useless propaganda
art of the past today holds a significant
artistic and market value
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16 17
Analyst Lyuboslava Ruseva dissectsBulgarias politics as BoykosGERB prepare to return to power
interview and photography by Anthony Georgieff
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24 25
by Stamen Manolov
High Beam is a series of articles initiated by Vagabond Magazine with the generous support
of the America for Bulgaria Foundation that aims to provide details and background of places
cultural entities events personalities and facts of life that are sometimes difficult to understandfor the outsider in the Balkans The ultimate aim is the preservation of Bulgarias cultural heritage ndash
including but not limited to archaeological cultural and ethnic diversity
Email your answers toeditorialvagabondbg
and you can win a copy o
Wall-to-WallPoetry of Europe Vagabonds guide
to the poetry walls o Soia
This is possibly the biggest Communist-era monstrosity in
Bulgaria outshining even the Flying Saucer congress hall-cum-temple at Buzludzha It was erected in 983089983097983096983089 as part of amegalomaniacal project masterminded by Todor Zhivkovsdaughter to mark the 9830893983088983088th anniversary of the foundation ofthe Bulgaria state an euphemism for pumping up nationalismNow at least 3983088983088983088983088 tons of concrete stand exposed to theelements above a large Bulgarian city but unlike Buzludzhathis monument has not been abandoned The local city councileven charges entry fees to let you go into it A particular
favourite to Japanese and Israeli tourists (but for completelydifferent reasons)Where in Bulgaria are you
copy A n t h o n y G e o r g i e ff
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26 27
by Bozhidara Georgieva photography by Anthony Georgieff
Former monastery prisonbecomes tourist attraction
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30 31
This publicity did not have any impact on the island itself In the983089983097983094983088s Bolshevik Island became a place of recreation for the artisticcircles of Burgas but the buildings fell into disrepair and soon theonly thing still intact on the island was the lighthouse The currentlighthouse which was supplied with electricity as late as the 983089983097983094983088sdates back to 983089983096983096983097 with a major facelift in 983089983097983089983092
After the democratic changes of 983089983097983096983097 Bolshevik Island became StAnastasia Island once more The regular boat services however were
discontinued and decay overtook the former monastic and prisonbuildings St Anastasia became a ghostly place which a handful of visitors per year could reach only if they hired a fisherman to bringthem to the island A basic tavern provided even more basic foodand the more adventurous slept in the dilapidated rooms of themonastery
The desolation and decay of St Anastasia are captured withdocumentary precision in Kamen Kalevs 1048626983088983089983089 feature movie he
Island
In 1048626983088983089983092 however the Burgas City Council completed a majorreconstruction project on the island The monastery buildingshave been restored and renovated there is better accommodationfor visitors who decide to spend the night on the island and therestaurant has been improved and the tourist infrastructure includesa small museum and a medieval pharmacy where local herbs aregrown
Reaching the island is easier with regular boats leaving several timesa day from the renovated Burgas Pier The crossing takes under an
hour and makes for a lovely day trip out of Burgas The St AnastasiaIslands turbulent history seems to have been provided with a happyending
1 The lighthouse of St Anastasia
Island was built in the 1880s by a
French company but the tower is
from 1912 In the waters nearby
stands one of the geological
curiosities of the island The
Mushroom rock
2 The regular tourist boats to StAnastasia start from the renovated
pier of Burgas
3 Founded in the 16th Century
the monastery and its church
suffered heavily from pirate
raids and were renovated at the
beginning of the 19th Century In
1923 the monastery was turned
into a prison
4 Rusting remains from periods
of desolation Today St Anastasiais a welcoming place with a nice
restaurant and a multimedia
museum
1 3
4
2
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32
Magical Rhodope site tells storieso Dionysus Alexander the Great
and Augustus
by Bozhidara Georgieva photography by Anthony Georgieff
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Covering more than 983093 square kilometres Perperikon is the biggestmegalithic site in the Balkans
The first people arrived here 983096983088983088983088 years ago and carved the rocksso they could fill the crevices with fragments of pots as offerings tothe unknown deities or spirits they believed in Then these people
disappeared from Perperikon After a hiatus of about 983089983088983088983088 years atthe end of the 983093th and the beginning of the 983092th millennia BC thehill again became the focal point of religious activity In the 983089983096th-9830891048626thcenturies BC the sanctuary was already so extensive and famous thatartefacts belonging to the Minoan and Mycenaean civilisations arenow found there
Perperikon experienced a decline in the 983092th-983089st centuries BCbut when the Romans took over Thrace activity resumed and newbuildings adorned the hill In the 983094th Century however Christianity
took over and the sanctuary was abandoned Unlike other pagansacred places in the Balkans Perperikon did not fall completelysilent
Christians moved into the empty shrines built churches over themand turned Perperikon into the stronghold of local bishops It allcame to an end in 98308939830941048626 when the Ottomans invaded and people leftPerperikon for good leaving the hill to nature which soon swallowedup the remains of the churches and the Thracian shrines
The site was rediscovered by archaeologists in the 1048626983088th Century
but Perperikon only became a household name in the early 1048626983088983088983088s when excavations started again and the theory that it had belonged tothe Oracle of Dionysus was promoted as a proven fact
Previous spread Remains of cult
pits and graves in the bedrock
Perperikon was built on solid rock
so the bases of each building and
even the graves were hewn in
the stone
Deciphering the traces in the
bedrock is not easy Some believe
that the pits covering the surface
of Perperikon were only for ritual
purposes Actually most weremade to support columns of
buildings or to store food and
liquids
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Major river breaks outin Stara Planina heading
towards Black Seaby Minka Vazkresenska photography by Anthony Georgieff
How to define the source of a river is often a tough question toanswer Is it where water springs from the ground for the first timeor is it the place where two or more streams merge into a larger flowEven the source of the Danube Europes largest river is contentiousat least three springs claim to be the beginnings of the mighty river
The Kamchiya River is no exception Theoretically it is only983092983094 kilometres long and flows through northeastern Bulgaria before joining the Black Sea at a particularly beautiful and terrifyinglymosquito-infested forest With its major tributary the Golyama orGrand Kamchiya the river is 1048626983092983092 kilometres long making it the983096th longest river in Bulgaria The official source of the GolyamaKamchiya ndash and of the Kamchiya ndash is in the Lisa Planina at analtitude of about 983095983089983088 metres above sea level
But there is a spot high up in the Stara Planina on the border ofits central and eastern parts which has gained popularity as the truesource of the Kamchiya It is where the second major tributaryof the river confusingly called the Luda or Crazy Kamchiya springsup as a tiny stream runs eastwards for 1048626983088983088 kilometres and joins theGolyama Kamchiya The Luda Kamchiya is the 983089983088th longest river inBulgaria
The popularity of the Luda Kamchiyas spring as the genuinebeginning of the Kamchiya River (are you already confused)
is probably due to its location It is in a pleasant and historicallysignificant spot the Vratnik Pass connecting Veliko Tarnovo andElena to the north with Sliven south of the Stara Planina
44 45
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44 45
Situated at an altitude of 983089983088983097983095 metres above sea level and being 983089983088kilometres long the Vratnik Pass used to be a main route through themountain The Romans built a road along it and in the Middle Agesa strong fort guarded it a frequent site of battles between Bulgariansand Byzantines The importance of the pass was mirrored in its nameZhelezni Vrata and Demir Kapiya mean Iron Gates in Bulgarian andTurkish resepctively The modern-day name of the pass Vratnik wasadopted in 9830899830979830921048626 and just means Gate
Today the pass is almost deserted as most drivers prefer to avoid thenarrow potholed road which zigzags through a thick forest Even insummer when you stop at the highest part of the pass to look for theKamchiyas source you will most probably find the place empty
Actually empty means empty of tourists The forest around thespring is the temporary home of of some Gypsies families dealing with lumberjacking and mushroom-pickingTheir ragged tents madeof old blankets and sheets of nylon are all over the place as are theheaps of household garbage
The scenery becomes almost surreal when mist descends drenchingthe forest in white and leaving only the dark trunks of the closesttrees visible
The Luda Kamchiyas spring is east of the road in a depressionhidden by tall trees Spectacular it is not as it is fed into a waterfountain The water fountain inscription however is grandiose Tothose fallen for freedom Glorify their sacred feat you unendinglyflowing Kamchiya
There is some justification for this Only 1048626 kilometres east of thespring is Aglikina Polyana or Aglikas Meadow where the Bulgarianhayduti or 983089983097th Century rebels used to meet They lived in themountains as far away from the Ottoman authorities as possibleexcept for when they attacked and robbed Ottoman convoys at the pass
Aglikina Polyana is heavily represented in Bulgarian heroic folklorehas a protected area status and hosts a regular folklore meeting
You can visit Aglikina Polyana from here but in any case be sure to
kneel at the water fountain which is the source of the Luda Kamchiyaand take a drink It is not that often that you can drink the cool clear waters of a river at its source
Top Semi-wild horses roam freely
around the Vratnik Pass
Bottom The beginnings of a 200-
kilometre Luda Kamchiya river
46 47
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46 47
Remote village pro983158idesunspoilt old-time atmosphere great ood by Violeta Rozova photography by Anthony Georgieff
Rural tourism in Bulgaria was barely known 1048626983088 years ago butin the early 1048626983088983088983088s it experienced an EU-funded boom But in thelate 1048626983088983088983088s the still ongoing economic crisis hit and now manyguesthouses are struggling to survive with the decreased numberof visitors In the western fringes of the Rhodope however is atraditional village which is still one of the best places for ruraltourism in Bulgaria
Leshten close to Gotse Delchev actually invented rural tourismin Bulgaria Since the mid-983089983097983097983088s it has been the first choice for anescape from the big city for all those interested in clean air delicioushealthy food and genuinely and intelligently preserved architecture
Truth to tell Leshten is hardly a village nowadays Only 983089983088 peoplelive there and most of them are septuagenarian In the 983089983097th and thefirst half of the 1048626983088th centuries however Leshten was a bustling placehome to more than 983093983088983088 people Unlike the inhabitants of nearbyKovachevitsa who built three- and four-storey mini fortresses to
protect their riches the people of Leshten were poor They had lessto lose and so they built houses of only two floors The ground level was for the livestock and the one above for the families
48 49
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4 49
Top A statue of two icecream
cones
Bottom The Buzludzha complex is
famous for its ghastly atmosphere
32
4
Kovachevitsa and Leshten both began to lose inhabitants at a greatrate after the Communist coup of 983089983097983092983092 when industrialisation andforced collectivisation striped the villagers of their livelihood andforced them to seek jobs in cities Kovachevitsa as a much grander village attracted the attention of Bulgarian film-makers in the 983089983097983095983088sand experienced a wave of new settlers mostly Sofia intellectuals who bought holiday homes there
Leshten was rediscovered much laterIn the mid-983089983097983097983088s a couple from Sofia found themselves in the
village with its ghostly and abandoned old houses They fell in love with Leshten as it had an unexpected advantage over crowd-pulling
Kovachevitsa Kovachevitsa is deep in the mountains and does nothave much of a vistaLeshten however has a marvellous view over the valley of the
Mesta River with the blue slopes of the Pirin defining the horizon983121uite unusually for the mid-983089983097983097983088s when everyone was either
leaving Bulgaria or flocking to Sofia where job prospects were betterthe couple moved to Leshten They bought some of the houses andturned them into holiday lets while preserving as much as possiblethe traditional architecture and opened one of the best restaurants
in Bulgaria This was in the long-disused local school next to thebeautiful and tiny St Paraskeva Church which dates from 9830899830963983094 and iscovered inside with primitive but captivating murals
1
1 The key to your room Each
detail in the 200-year old Leshten
houses has been preserved
2 3 The St Paraskeva Church
was built in 1837 and has been
listed as a local monument of
culture
4 Having breakfast while enjoying
the view to the Mesta Valley and
the Pirin is one of Leshtens many
pleasures
50 51
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The food in the tavern was locally sourced long before this became
fashionable Almost everything on the menu comes from the areafrom the wild berry juice and the thick sheeprsquos yoghurt to thetraditional egg noodles and the meatballs which are prepared not ofmince but of finely chopped meat
The restored traditional houses are on a par with the foods qualityIntelligently preserved yet having mod cons they smell of ageing wood geraniums and of woollen rugs warmed by the sun The wallsare whitewashed white linen curtains with embroidery shade the windows and the slightly crooked beams of the floor squeak quietly
under your feetRecently however more people decided to profit on Leshten
More houses were turned into hotels and as the competition grewone night the old school caught fire and burned to the ground Thetavern was re-established in a newer building with a beautiful viewof the Mesta Valley The food is still gorgeous the best the Rhodopeand the people living in these beautiful mountains can give you
This series of articles is supported by theAmerica for Bulgaria Foundation The
statements and opinions expressed herein
are those of the authors and do not necessarily
reflect the opinion of the America for Bulgaria
Foundation and its partners
1 Stone was used extensively in
building the houses of Leshten
and even the roofs are f rom rock
The technique was popular in
Bulgaria until the beginning of
the 20th Century but was later
abandoned It has been enjoying
a revival in recent years as surge
of interest in eco tourism has
brought it back to fashion
2 Leshten is a good basefor exploring of the Western
Rhodope with traditional villages
like Kovachevitsa and Dolen and
pristine wild nature all around
3 Fresco from St Paraskeva
Church with a didactic scene
advertising the advantages of
pious life
3
1
2
52 53
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Case study of senior Communist offi cialElena Lagadinova reveals unexpectedaspects of superpower confrontation
by Kristen Ghodsee all photographs courtesy of the author
One of the great ironies of the Cold War is that the twosuperpowers often championed issues that they cared little aboutin practice The East bloc defended the social rights of the worldrsquos workers while treating their own citizens like indentured servantsThe United States campaigned for political freedoms abroad whilebrutally oppressing or marginalising their own African-Americanand Native American populations at home Any rhetoric thatcould be deployed against the enemy became a weapon in the widerideological battle
Today historians and social scientists are studying the internationallegacies of these Cold War rivalries over social and politicalrights Whether it is labor conventions at the International LaborOrganisation political self-determination for previously colonisedcountries or the end to state-sanctioned racial discrimination in theUnited States or in apartheid-era South Africa the general scholarlyconsensus is that ordinary people ndash whether in the capitalist
Communist or developing worlds ndash benefitted from superpowercompetition An unintended consequence of American and Sovietgrandstanding was often real social progress
1
2
2
4
54
6 7
1 Elena The Amazon
Lagadinova in 1945
2 With Valentina Tereshkova
3 Delivering a speech in 1970
4 With the US activist Angela
Davis in 1972
5 Hosting a school for African
women leaders in Sofia in 1982
6 Lagadinova (left) with an
young Irina Bokova (right) at
the Third UN Conference on
Women in Nairobi in 1985
7 In Razlog with Kristen
Ghodsee in 2013
3
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Tousands o Hassidim gatherin Ukrainian city to celebrate
Jewish New Year by Dimana Trankova photography by Anthony Georgieff
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Dusty and drab devoid of any charm unless you count the 983089983096thCentury Sofyivka Park and the Georgian cheese pastries at the busstation the Ukrainian city of Uman would be a strong contender forthe most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe
But it is not the most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe ndash atleast not for a couple of days each year when it gets filled with joyfulcrowds of Ultra religious Jews flown in from as far as Canada BritainIsrael and Australia to celebrate the Jewish New Year usually inSeptember They all converge at Pushkin Street take out their heavyluggage and drag it to their rented rooms in small houses and tallSocialist apartment blocks Music is booming the smell of cookedfood comes from the tents of the openair eateries Happy people inthe streets greet each other smiling from ear to ear when they meetand embrace some old friend
Uman a city of roughly 983097983088983088983088983088 residents in western Ukraine is thefocus of pilgrimage for Hasidic Jews who come here to celebrate atthe tomb of one of their greatest spiritual leaders
Rebbe Nachman (9830899830959830951048626-983089983096983089983088) of Breslov was the great-grandson ofBaal Shem Tov the founder of Hasidism a conservative movementthat spread among the Ashkenazi Jews in Eastern Europe He showedthe first signs of having a special connection with the divine as earlyas 983089983095 and spent the next decades of his life moving around the areaof what is now western Ukraine and eastern Poland attractingfollowers Rebbe Nachmans travels even brought him to Palestine where he met and talked with prominent Jewish sages and scholars
In 9830899830969830881048626 he settled in Bratslav (as Breslov is more commonlyknown) and announced the creation of a new movement ofHasidism the Breslov Hasidism
When pilgrimage to Rebbe
Nachmans grave resumed in
the early 1990s the locals ofUman were amazed by the Rosh
Hashanah antics of visiting Jews
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Rebbe Nachman was incredibly popular but not everyone
liked him because of some of his more radical ideas one of whichencouraged people to feel free to find spiritual leaders for themselvesand to break with the tradition of the hereditary Hasidic dynastiesRebbe Nachman also encouraged the individual search for the divineHis teachings spread during tumultuous times The beginning of the983089983097th Century saw the spread of democratic ideas across Europe andfor the first time in centuries Jews enjoyed ndash at least theoretically ndashequal rights Many chose fuller integration into the modernEuropean society but for more conservative Jews these changesthreatened the foundation of their communities The teachingsof Rebbe Nachman were a sort of reaction to this trend blendingtradition with more individual freedom
Whether Rebbe Nachman thought of himself as a Messiah is stilla matter of dispute Some phrases from his teachings would makegreat Facebook quotes in todays era of soul-searching and positivethinking such as If you believe that you can damage then believethat you can fixrdquo or You are never given an obstacle you cannotovercome
In Breslov Rebbe Nachman saw his movement flourish andgrow with great crowds of followers assembling for feasts like RoshHashanah Chanukah or Shavuot when they eagerly listened to histeachings In 983089983096983089983088 however he had to move
Consumption had been devouring the still young Rebbe Nachmanfor some time and then his house was destroyed by fire He movedto nearby Uman a town of great significance for the local Jewishcommunity In 983089983095983094983096 about 1048626983088983088983088983088 Jews from Uman along withmany Poles and Uniate Ukrainians were killed by the UkrainianHaidamak rebels who had risen against the then Polish-LithuanianCommonwealth
1 Selling Rebbe Nachman-
themed techno music on Pushkin
Street
2 For many Breslov Hasidim the
pilgrimage is also an opportunity
to meet old friends and make
new ones
3 Rebbe Nachman is the
descendant of Baal Shem Tov the
founder of Hasidism a branch
of Orthodox Judaism wheremysticism is at the foundation of
spirituality
3
1
2
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Over the following two decades the Rosh Hashanah gatheringin Uman became ever stronger On average about 983089983088983088983088983088-983089983093983088983088983088Hasidim come to celebrate each year The atmosphere is festive in thestreets and tense around the grave of Rebbe Nachman and peopleare generally friendly even when they notice the odd tourist in thecrowd Many of the pilgrims get tipsy and dance to rave and rock
music booming from stalls gardens and balconies Children runto and fro carrying presents bought from the ramshackle openairmarket
There are signs however that these people are not the average partygoers The song lyrics are devoted to Rebbe Nachman Umanand Rosh Hashanah Shofars howl and the streets are lined withbarbers shaving the heads of pilgrims in the traditional way The posters on the walls announce the scheduled flights to and fromUman and the crowd is predominantly male
Sometimes there is violence Many locals are not happy with the pilgrims and the fact that many Hasidim have bought propertiesaround Pushkin Street introducing their very specific lifestyle Thereare complaints about the noise and the rubbish and the level ofsecurity 1048626983088983089983088 is remembered for several sometimes bloody fightsbetween locals and pilgrims Overall though visiting Uman for RoshHashanah can turn into the experience of a lifetime even for people with only a faint interest in Judaism The event is an immersion in abygone era right amid the post-Soviet reality of Ukraine
In 1048626983088983089983092 Rosh Hashanah begins at sunset on 1048626983092 September andends at nightfall of 1048626983094 September
Top After decades of
prosecution pilgrimage in Uman
is again safe and many children
mingle in the crowd
Bottom A Jewish boy tries his
brand new plastic gun bought
as a New Years present froma makeshift openair market in
Uman
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82
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150 984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143Stara Zagora50 Han Asparuh St Zagorka lakephone 042 985 555 042 985 555
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983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150983123983156983137983154983137 983130983137983143983151983154983137
Липи прави улици и дружелюбна
атмосфера в един от най-интересните градове на България
текст Димитър Ивановфотография Антони Георгиев
by Dimitar Ivanovphotography by Anthony Georgieff
Lindens straight streets and
fiendly atmosphere in one o themost interesting cities o Bulgaria
984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143984097984130984112984128984112 984087984112984115984126984128984112
Когато се чудите накъде да тръгнете в първите топлидни на есента Стара Загора е едно от най-добрите ре-шения Отдалечен на 10486263983088 км по магистрала Тракияградът е изключително близо за онези които живеят вСофия и предлага много повече спокойствие и зелени-на от столицата дружелюбна атмосфера приятни заве-дения и исторически и природни забележителностикоито да запълнят кратката ви ваканция
Стара Загора е един от най-старите градове в ЕвропаПървите хора се заселили тук около VII-VI хилядоле-тие пр Хр Около IV впрХр на мястото на съвремен-на Стара Загора се появява град на траките известен с
When you are wondering where to go for the first warm days of the autumn Stara Zagora is one of the bestsolutions About 10486263983088 km on the Trakiya Motorway thecity is close enough for those living in Sofia and offersmore serenity and greenery than the capital The city hasalso nice cafeacutes and restaurants and enough historical andnature sites to fill a short holiday
Stara Zagora is one of the oldest cities in EuropeThe fist people settled in the area around the 983095-983094thmillennia BC Around the 983092th Century BC on the placeof modern Stara Zagora appeared a settlement of theThracians which was called Beroe It was conquered by
phone 042 985 555 042 985 555reservationshotelstarazagoraeu
wwwhotelstarazagoraeu
The fi ve-star Park Hotel Stara Zagora is situated on the bank of the romantic Zagorka Lake in Stara Zagora
Hotel with 31 luxurious rooms two luxurious apartments and one VIP apartment
State-of-the-art SPA centre with swimming pool jacuzzi fitness hall steam bath sauna
Turkish bath and massage room
Six conference rooms with capacity between seven and 250 people equipped with multimedia
and other presentational technique and tools Orfeida Restaurant with amazing interior and a capacity for up to 150 people plus a summer and a winter garden
Park for biking fishing boating jogging and other sports and activities
All dreams lead toPark Hotel Stara Zagora
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
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where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
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6 983139983151983150983156983141983150983156983155
25 High beamSt Anastasia Island
PerperikonFrom whence Kamchiya springsEscape to Leshten
issue 95ndash96 2014
PUBLISHERVagabond MEDIA
23 Budapest Street 1000 Sofia phone (+359 2) 983 3308
fax (+359 2) 983 3358editorialvagabondbg
wwwvagabondbg
MANAGING EDITOR
Anthony Georgieff anthonyvagabondbg
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR
Elena Filipova elenavagabondbg
ASSISTANT EDITOR
Jane Keating
GRAPHIC DESIGN
Gergana Shkodrova shkodrovavagabondbg
DIRECTOR OF OPERATIONS ndash
GREECE
Jeni Georgieva jenigogreecebg
MEDIA SALES
Alexandra Spiridonovaaspiridonovavagabondbg
Kristina Panayotova kristinavagabondbg
Svetlana Doncheva svetlanavagabondbg
Tsvetelina Kovacheva tsvetelinavagabondbg
Vanya Zlateva vanyavagabondbg
CONTRIBUTORS
Bozhidara Georgieva
Dimana Trankova
Dimitar Ivanov
Kristen Ghodsee
Minka Vazkresenska
Stamen Manolov
Violeta Rozov
PAPER
Cover 983090 gm2
Inner page gm2
PRINTED IN BULGARIA
Janet-45 Print amp PublishingPlovdiv
COPYRIGHT
copy Vagabond Media No partof this publication may be re-produced in any form withoutthe express written consent of
the publisher
ISSN 1312ndash8590
Unless explicitly stated the views and opinions expressed or implied in Bulgarias English
Monthly are intended for entertainment only The publisher assumes no responsibility direct or implied
for any advertising content Product s and services mentioned are subject to change without prior notice
You are strongly advised to make proper research and seek professional advice before making any financial
commitment in response to advertising material
Pursuant to Article 7a Paragraph 3 of the Bulgarian Compulsory Deposition of Printed and Other Works act
it is herewith declared that Anthony Georgieff is the sole proprietor of Vagabond Media Ltd
983145983149983152983154983145983150983156
Produced on Apple Macintosh
computer equipment only
8 983121uote-unquote
10 Jokes of the month
12 Bulgarias monthly quiz16 Interview
Lyuboslava Ruseva
24 Where in Bulgaria
58 Vagabond WorldUman Uman Rosh Hashanah
72 FictionMatthew Kneale
79 Highflights
128 Inside track
c o v e r
b y A n t h o n y G e o r g i e f f
52 Legacies of Communism Womens rights and the Cold War
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8 -
You saw whatspeculative funds did to
Argentina Argentina wentbankrupt Argentina a NATO
state a big country Wentbankrupt in one night
GERB leader BOYKO BORISOV
Probablysomewhere with
Internet coverage Prosecutor IVAN GESHEV on the whereabouts
o svetan Vasilev owner o CorporateCommercial Bank
The prosecutionis for hire Some peoplehire prosecutors just like
others hire hitmen Political s cientis t EVGENIY DAYNOVLets support
charities dedicatedto children withalthuism
GERBrsquos TSVETAN TSVETANOV
My enemies have letthe genie out of the bottle
Whoever wants to rule the statewill have to beg me
NIKOLAY BAREKOV ex journalist and lea der o Bulgaria Without Censorship
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1110
Bulgaria Without Censorships Nikolay Barekov went to see a clairvoyantand asked Tell me madam will I become prime minister
The old woman looked at him from head to toe touched his foreheadlooked at his tongue and his eyeballs took his pulse and said You willson you will You will also become Napoleon Julius Caesar Alexander theGreat
A businessman went to apply for a government contract under the PublicContract Acts The clerk looked at his application and asked Does yourcompany have 983089983088 years of experience
Yes the businessman answeredThe clerk put down a note and asked againYour company has already won 983089983093 government contracts which it has
completed successfully rightYes the businessman answered
The clerk paused wiped his forehead and inquired Does your companyhave foreign consultants
Yes the businessman repliedThe clerk sighed shook his head and looked at the businessman over his
glassesIm sorry but we cannot even admit you to take part in the competitionBut why the businessman asked in amazement What condition do we
not fulfilThe clerk put his finger down on the application Well you fail the most
important conditionAnd what is it the businessman inquiredThe name of the manager of your company is not Gadyo Vutov Gadev
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15
galleryloranyahoocom
wwwgallerylorancom
L O R A N G A L L E R Y
Petar Kolev Spring at Vratsa 1971oil canvas 10082 cm
Nevena Gancheva September the 1960soil canvas 100695 cm
Vladimir Dimitrov ndash MaystoraPortrait of Georgi Dimitrov oil canvas 97835 cm
Vasil Evtimov Down With Race Segregation 1944oil canvas 4857 cm
Kiril Mayski Brigadiers the 1950swatercolour paper 72895 cm
Sofia 16 Oborishte St(entrance from Vasil Aprilov Street)
Monday-Saturday from 11 am to 7 pm
Sunday from 11 am to 6 pmphone 02 483 0877
The diverse collection includes many
genres and styles and is representative
for the period The earliest exhibits are
the All for the Frontline All for the Victory
sketch by Vladimir Dimitrov ndash Maystora
and Down With Race Segregation by VasilEvtimov Specific attention deserves
the oil portrait of dictator Georgi
Dimitrov painted by Maystora in his
trademark style The exhibition includes
compositions dedicated to the
Brigadier Movement the
collectivisation of the agrarian lands
and the 1923 September Uprising An
accent not only because of its size is apainting by Ioan Leviev denouncing the
Pinochet regime in Chilli
The main message of the exhibition
is that the art of the period deserved
not only to be remembered but also to
be surveyed and cherished The Loran
Art Gallery is aware of the controversy
of the exhibition but it stands by itbelieving that history whatever it was
should be known and remembered
Socialist orTotalitarian Art
9 September ndash 9 October
2014
L O R A N G A L L E R Y
The current exhibition of Loran Art
Gallery is provoked by art in Socialist
Bulgaria created between 9 September
1944 and 10 November 1989 Bulgarians
still struggle with their understandingsof the period trapped between sweet
nostalgia and memories for violation
of basic human r ights The notion towards
Socialist art is equally ambiguous
In such an atmosphere it is hardly a
surprise that only two months after
Loran Art Gallery nurtured the concept
for the exhibition the gallery gatheredmore pieces of Socialist art than it could
accommodate on its premises So the
online exhibition in the gallerys website
is much richer than the actual one
The Socialist or Totalitarian Art exhibition
doesnt aim to vindicate the art of the
period or to celebrate the 70th anniversary
of the Communist coup The gallery wantsto demonstrate that the useless propaganda
art of the past today holds a significant
artistic and market value
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16 17
Analyst Lyuboslava Ruseva dissectsBulgarias politics as BoykosGERB prepare to return to power
interview and photography by Anthony Georgieff
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by Stamen Manolov
High Beam is a series of articles initiated by Vagabond Magazine with the generous support
of the America for Bulgaria Foundation that aims to provide details and background of places
cultural entities events personalities and facts of life that are sometimes difficult to understandfor the outsider in the Balkans The ultimate aim is the preservation of Bulgarias cultural heritage ndash
including but not limited to archaeological cultural and ethnic diversity
Email your answers toeditorialvagabondbg
and you can win a copy o
Wall-to-WallPoetry of Europe Vagabonds guide
to the poetry walls o Soia
This is possibly the biggest Communist-era monstrosity in
Bulgaria outshining even the Flying Saucer congress hall-cum-temple at Buzludzha It was erected in 983089983097983096983089 as part of amegalomaniacal project masterminded by Todor Zhivkovsdaughter to mark the 9830893983088983088th anniversary of the foundation ofthe Bulgaria state an euphemism for pumping up nationalismNow at least 3983088983088983088983088 tons of concrete stand exposed to theelements above a large Bulgarian city but unlike Buzludzhathis monument has not been abandoned The local city councileven charges entry fees to let you go into it A particular
favourite to Japanese and Israeli tourists (but for completelydifferent reasons)Where in Bulgaria are you
copy A n t h o n y G e o r g i e ff
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by Bozhidara Georgieva photography by Anthony Georgieff
Former monastery prisonbecomes tourist attraction
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This publicity did not have any impact on the island itself In the983089983097983094983088s Bolshevik Island became a place of recreation for the artisticcircles of Burgas but the buildings fell into disrepair and soon theonly thing still intact on the island was the lighthouse The currentlighthouse which was supplied with electricity as late as the 983089983097983094983088sdates back to 983089983096983096983097 with a major facelift in 983089983097983089983092
After the democratic changes of 983089983097983096983097 Bolshevik Island became StAnastasia Island once more The regular boat services however were
discontinued and decay overtook the former monastic and prisonbuildings St Anastasia became a ghostly place which a handful of visitors per year could reach only if they hired a fisherman to bringthem to the island A basic tavern provided even more basic foodand the more adventurous slept in the dilapidated rooms of themonastery
The desolation and decay of St Anastasia are captured withdocumentary precision in Kamen Kalevs 1048626983088983089983089 feature movie he
Island
In 1048626983088983089983092 however the Burgas City Council completed a majorreconstruction project on the island The monastery buildingshave been restored and renovated there is better accommodationfor visitors who decide to spend the night on the island and therestaurant has been improved and the tourist infrastructure includesa small museum and a medieval pharmacy where local herbs aregrown
Reaching the island is easier with regular boats leaving several timesa day from the renovated Burgas Pier The crossing takes under an
hour and makes for a lovely day trip out of Burgas The St AnastasiaIslands turbulent history seems to have been provided with a happyending
1 The lighthouse of St Anastasia
Island was built in the 1880s by a
French company but the tower is
from 1912 In the waters nearby
stands one of the geological
curiosities of the island The
Mushroom rock
2 The regular tourist boats to StAnastasia start from the renovated
pier of Burgas
3 Founded in the 16th Century
the monastery and its church
suffered heavily from pirate
raids and were renovated at the
beginning of the 19th Century In
1923 the monastery was turned
into a prison
4 Rusting remains from periods
of desolation Today St Anastasiais a welcoming place with a nice
restaurant and a multimedia
museum
1 3
4
2
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Magical Rhodope site tells storieso Dionysus Alexander the Great
and Augustus
by Bozhidara Georgieva photography by Anthony Georgieff
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Covering more than 983093 square kilometres Perperikon is the biggestmegalithic site in the Balkans
The first people arrived here 983096983088983088983088 years ago and carved the rocksso they could fill the crevices with fragments of pots as offerings tothe unknown deities or spirits they believed in Then these people
disappeared from Perperikon After a hiatus of about 983089983088983088983088 years atthe end of the 983093th and the beginning of the 983092th millennia BC thehill again became the focal point of religious activity In the 983089983096th-9830891048626thcenturies BC the sanctuary was already so extensive and famous thatartefacts belonging to the Minoan and Mycenaean civilisations arenow found there
Perperikon experienced a decline in the 983092th-983089st centuries BCbut when the Romans took over Thrace activity resumed and newbuildings adorned the hill In the 983094th Century however Christianity
took over and the sanctuary was abandoned Unlike other pagansacred places in the Balkans Perperikon did not fall completelysilent
Christians moved into the empty shrines built churches over themand turned Perperikon into the stronghold of local bishops It allcame to an end in 98308939830941048626 when the Ottomans invaded and people leftPerperikon for good leaving the hill to nature which soon swallowedup the remains of the churches and the Thracian shrines
The site was rediscovered by archaeologists in the 1048626983088th Century
but Perperikon only became a household name in the early 1048626983088983088983088s when excavations started again and the theory that it had belonged tothe Oracle of Dionysus was promoted as a proven fact
Previous spread Remains of cult
pits and graves in the bedrock
Perperikon was built on solid rock
so the bases of each building and
even the graves were hewn in
the stone
Deciphering the traces in the
bedrock is not easy Some believe
that the pits covering the surface
of Perperikon were only for ritual
purposes Actually most weremade to support columns of
buildings or to store food and
liquids
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Major river breaks outin Stara Planina heading
towards Black Seaby Minka Vazkresenska photography by Anthony Georgieff
How to define the source of a river is often a tough question toanswer Is it where water springs from the ground for the first timeor is it the place where two or more streams merge into a larger flowEven the source of the Danube Europes largest river is contentiousat least three springs claim to be the beginnings of the mighty river
The Kamchiya River is no exception Theoretically it is only983092983094 kilometres long and flows through northeastern Bulgaria before joining the Black Sea at a particularly beautiful and terrifyinglymosquito-infested forest With its major tributary the Golyama orGrand Kamchiya the river is 1048626983092983092 kilometres long making it the983096th longest river in Bulgaria The official source of the GolyamaKamchiya ndash and of the Kamchiya ndash is in the Lisa Planina at analtitude of about 983095983089983088 metres above sea level
But there is a spot high up in the Stara Planina on the border ofits central and eastern parts which has gained popularity as the truesource of the Kamchiya It is where the second major tributaryof the river confusingly called the Luda or Crazy Kamchiya springsup as a tiny stream runs eastwards for 1048626983088983088 kilometres and joins theGolyama Kamchiya The Luda Kamchiya is the 983089983088th longest river inBulgaria
The popularity of the Luda Kamchiyas spring as the genuinebeginning of the Kamchiya River (are you already confused)
is probably due to its location It is in a pleasant and historicallysignificant spot the Vratnik Pass connecting Veliko Tarnovo andElena to the north with Sliven south of the Stara Planina
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Situated at an altitude of 983089983088983097983095 metres above sea level and being 983089983088kilometres long the Vratnik Pass used to be a main route through themountain The Romans built a road along it and in the Middle Agesa strong fort guarded it a frequent site of battles between Bulgariansand Byzantines The importance of the pass was mirrored in its nameZhelezni Vrata and Demir Kapiya mean Iron Gates in Bulgarian andTurkish resepctively The modern-day name of the pass Vratnik wasadopted in 9830899830979830921048626 and just means Gate
Today the pass is almost deserted as most drivers prefer to avoid thenarrow potholed road which zigzags through a thick forest Even insummer when you stop at the highest part of the pass to look for theKamchiyas source you will most probably find the place empty
Actually empty means empty of tourists The forest around thespring is the temporary home of of some Gypsies families dealing with lumberjacking and mushroom-pickingTheir ragged tents madeof old blankets and sheets of nylon are all over the place as are theheaps of household garbage
The scenery becomes almost surreal when mist descends drenchingthe forest in white and leaving only the dark trunks of the closesttrees visible
The Luda Kamchiyas spring is east of the road in a depressionhidden by tall trees Spectacular it is not as it is fed into a waterfountain The water fountain inscription however is grandiose Tothose fallen for freedom Glorify their sacred feat you unendinglyflowing Kamchiya
There is some justification for this Only 1048626 kilometres east of thespring is Aglikina Polyana or Aglikas Meadow where the Bulgarianhayduti or 983089983097th Century rebels used to meet They lived in themountains as far away from the Ottoman authorities as possibleexcept for when they attacked and robbed Ottoman convoys at the pass
Aglikina Polyana is heavily represented in Bulgarian heroic folklorehas a protected area status and hosts a regular folklore meeting
You can visit Aglikina Polyana from here but in any case be sure to
kneel at the water fountain which is the source of the Luda Kamchiyaand take a drink It is not that often that you can drink the cool clear waters of a river at its source
Top Semi-wild horses roam freely
around the Vratnik Pass
Bottom The beginnings of a 200-
kilometre Luda Kamchiya river
46 47
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Remote village pro983158idesunspoilt old-time atmosphere great ood by Violeta Rozova photography by Anthony Georgieff
Rural tourism in Bulgaria was barely known 1048626983088 years ago butin the early 1048626983088983088983088s it experienced an EU-funded boom But in thelate 1048626983088983088983088s the still ongoing economic crisis hit and now manyguesthouses are struggling to survive with the decreased numberof visitors In the western fringes of the Rhodope however is atraditional village which is still one of the best places for ruraltourism in Bulgaria
Leshten close to Gotse Delchev actually invented rural tourismin Bulgaria Since the mid-983089983097983097983088s it has been the first choice for anescape from the big city for all those interested in clean air delicioushealthy food and genuinely and intelligently preserved architecture
Truth to tell Leshten is hardly a village nowadays Only 983089983088 peoplelive there and most of them are septuagenarian In the 983089983097th and thefirst half of the 1048626983088th centuries however Leshten was a bustling placehome to more than 983093983088983088 people Unlike the inhabitants of nearbyKovachevitsa who built three- and four-storey mini fortresses to
protect their riches the people of Leshten were poor They had lessto lose and so they built houses of only two floors The ground level was for the livestock and the one above for the families
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Top A statue of two icecream
cones
Bottom The Buzludzha complex is
famous for its ghastly atmosphere
32
4
Kovachevitsa and Leshten both began to lose inhabitants at a greatrate after the Communist coup of 983089983097983092983092 when industrialisation andforced collectivisation striped the villagers of their livelihood andforced them to seek jobs in cities Kovachevitsa as a much grander village attracted the attention of Bulgarian film-makers in the 983089983097983095983088sand experienced a wave of new settlers mostly Sofia intellectuals who bought holiday homes there
Leshten was rediscovered much laterIn the mid-983089983097983097983088s a couple from Sofia found themselves in the
village with its ghostly and abandoned old houses They fell in love with Leshten as it had an unexpected advantage over crowd-pulling
Kovachevitsa Kovachevitsa is deep in the mountains and does nothave much of a vistaLeshten however has a marvellous view over the valley of the
Mesta River with the blue slopes of the Pirin defining the horizon983121uite unusually for the mid-983089983097983097983088s when everyone was either
leaving Bulgaria or flocking to Sofia where job prospects were betterthe couple moved to Leshten They bought some of the houses andturned them into holiday lets while preserving as much as possiblethe traditional architecture and opened one of the best restaurants
in Bulgaria This was in the long-disused local school next to thebeautiful and tiny St Paraskeva Church which dates from 9830899830963983094 and iscovered inside with primitive but captivating murals
1
1 The key to your room Each
detail in the 200-year old Leshten
houses has been preserved
2 3 The St Paraskeva Church
was built in 1837 and has been
listed as a local monument of
culture
4 Having breakfast while enjoying
the view to the Mesta Valley and
the Pirin is one of Leshtens many
pleasures
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The food in the tavern was locally sourced long before this became
fashionable Almost everything on the menu comes from the areafrom the wild berry juice and the thick sheeprsquos yoghurt to thetraditional egg noodles and the meatballs which are prepared not ofmince but of finely chopped meat
The restored traditional houses are on a par with the foods qualityIntelligently preserved yet having mod cons they smell of ageing wood geraniums and of woollen rugs warmed by the sun The wallsare whitewashed white linen curtains with embroidery shade the windows and the slightly crooked beams of the floor squeak quietly
under your feetRecently however more people decided to profit on Leshten
More houses were turned into hotels and as the competition grewone night the old school caught fire and burned to the ground Thetavern was re-established in a newer building with a beautiful viewof the Mesta Valley The food is still gorgeous the best the Rhodopeand the people living in these beautiful mountains can give you
This series of articles is supported by theAmerica for Bulgaria Foundation The
statements and opinions expressed herein
are those of the authors and do not necessarily
reflect the opinion of the America for Bulgaria
Foundation and its partners
1 Stone was used extensively in
building the houses of Leshten
and even the roofs are f rom rock
The technique was popular in
Bulgaria until the beginning of
the 20th Century but was later
abandoned It has been enjoying
a revival in recent years as surge
of interest in eco tourism has
brought it back to fashion
2 Leshten is a good basefor exploring of the Western
Rhodope with traditional villages
like Kovachevitsa and Dolen and
pristine wild nature all around
3 Fresco from St Paraskeva
Church with a didactic scene
advertising the advantages of
pious life
3
1
2
52 53
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Case study of senior Communist offi cialElena Lagadinova reveals unexpectedaspects of superpower confrontation
by Kristen Ghodsee all photographs courtesy of the author
One of the great ironies of the Cold War is that the twosuperpowers often championed issues that they cared little aboutin practice The East bloc defended the social rights of the worldrsquos workers while treating their own citizens like indentured servantsThe United States campaigned for political freedoms abroad whilebrutally oppressing or marginalising their own African-Americanand Native American populations at home Any rhetoric thatcould be deployed against the enemy became a weapon in the widerideological battle
Today historians and social scientists are studying the internationallegacies of these Cold War rivalries over social and politicalrights Whether it is labor conventions at the International LaborOrganisation political self-determination for previously colonisedcountries or the end to state-sanctioned racial discrimination in theUnited States or in apartheid-era South Africa the general scholarlyconsensus is that ordinary people ndash whether in the capitalist
Communist or developing worlds ndash benefitted from superpowercompetition An unintended consequence of American and Sovietgrandstanding was often real social progress
1
2
2
4
54
6 7
1 Elena The Amazon
Lagadinova in 1945
2 With Valentina Tereshkova
3 Delivering a speech in 1970
4 With the US activist Angela
Davis in 1972
5 Hosting a school for African
women leaders in Sofia in 1982
6 Lagadinova (left) with an
young Irina Bokova (right) at
the Third UN Conference on
Women in Nairobi in 1985
7 In Razlog with Kristen
Ghodsee in 2013
3
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Tousands o Hassidim gatherin Ukrainian city to celebrate
Jewish New Year by Dimana Trankova photography by Anthony Georgieff
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Dusty and drab devoid of any charm unless you count the 983089983096thCentury Sofyivka Park and the Georgian cheese pastries at the busstation the Ukrainian city of Uman would be a strong contender forthe most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe
But it is not the most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe ndash atleast not for a couple of days each year when it gets filled with joyfulcrowds of Ultra religious Jews flown in from as far as Canada BritainIsrael and Australia to celebrate the Jewish New Year usually inSeptember They all converge at Pushkin Street take out their heavyluggage and drag it to their rented rooms in small houses and tallSocialist apartment blocks Music is booming the smell of cookedfood comes from the tents of the openair eateries Happy people inthe streets greet each other smiling from ear to ear when they meetand embrace some old friend
Uman a city of roughly 983097983088983088983088983088 residents in western Ukraine is thefocus of pilgrimage for Hasidic Jews who come here to celebrate atthe tomb of one of their greatest spiritual leaders
Rebbe Nachman (9830899830959830951048626-983089983096983089983088) of Breslov was the great-grandson ofBaal Shem Tov the founder of Hasidism a conservative movementthat spread among the Ashkenazi Jews in Eastern Europe He showedthe first signs of having a special connection with the divine as earlyas 983089983095 and spent the next decades of his life moving around the areaof what is now western Ukraine and eastern Poland attractingfollowers Rebbe Nachmans travels even brought him to Palestine where he met and talked with prominent Jewish sages and scholars
In 9830899830969830881048626 he settled in Bratslav (as Breslov is more commonlyknown) and announced the creation of a new movement ofHasidism the Breslov Hasidism
When pilgrimage to Rebbe
Nachmans grave resumed in
the early 1990s the locals ofUman were amazed by the Rosh
Hashanah antics of visiting Jews
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Rebbe Nachman was incredibly popular but not everyone
liked him because of some of his more radical ideas one of whichencouraged people to feel free to find spiritual leaders for themselvesand to break with the tradition of the hereditary Hasidic dynastiesRebbe Nachman also encouraged the individual search for the divineHis teachings spread during tumultuous times The beginning of the983089983097th Century saw the spread of democratic ideas across Europe andfor the first time in centuries Jews enjoyed ndash at least theoretically ndashequal rights Many chose fuller integration into the modernEuropean society but for more conservative Jews these changesthreatened the foundation of their communities The teachingsof Rebbe Nachman were a sort of reaction to this trend blendingtradition with more individual freedom
Whether Rebbe Nachman thought of himself as a Messiah is stilla matter of dispute Some phrases from his teachings would makegreat Facebook quotes in todays era of soul-searching and positivethinking such as If you believe that you can damage then believethat you can fixrdquo or You are never given an obstacle you cannotovercome
In Breslov Rebbe Nachman saw his movement flourish andgrow with great crowds of followers assembling for feasts like RoshHashanah Chanukah or Shavuot when they eagerly listened to histeachings In 983089983096983089983088 however he had to move
Consumption had been devouring the still young Rebbe Nachmanfor some time and then his house was destroyed by fire He movedto nearby Uman a town of great significance for the local Jewishcommunity In 983089983095983094983096 about 1048626983088983088983088983088 Jews from Uman along withmany Poles and Uniate Ukrainians were killed by the UkrainianHaidamak rebels who had risen against the then Polish-LithuanianCommonwealth
1 Selling Rebbe Nachman-
themed techno music on Pushkin
Street
2 For many Breslov Hasidim the
pilgrimage is also an opportunity
to meet old friends and make
new ones
3 Rebbe Nachman is the
descendant of Baal Shem Tov the
founder of Hasidism a branch
of Orthodox Judaism wheremysticism is at the foundation of
spirituality
3
1
2
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Over the following two decades the Rosh Hashanah gatheringin Uman became ever stronger On average about 983089983088983088983088983088-983089983093983088983088983088Hasidim come to celebrate each year The atmosphere is festive in thestreets and tense around the grave of Rebbe Nachman and peopleare generally friendly even when they notice the odd tourist in thecrowd Many of the pilgrims get tipsy and dance to rave and rock
music booming from stalls gardens and balconies Children runto and fro carrying presents bought from the ramshackle openairmarket
There are signs however that these people are not the average partygoers The song lyrics are devoted to Rebbe Nachman Umanand Rosh Hashanah Shofars howl and the streets are lined withbarbers shaving the heads of pilgrims in the traditional way The posters on the walls announce the scheduled flights to and fromUman and the crowd is predominantly male
Sometimes there is violence Many locals are not happy with the pilgrims and the fact that many Hasidim have bought propertiesaround Pushkin Street introducing their very specific lifestyle Thereare complaints about the noise and the rubbish and the level ofsecurity 1048626983088983089983088 is remembered for several sometimes bloody fightsbetween locals and pilgrims Overall though visiting Uman for RoshHashanah can turn into the experience of a lifetime even for people with only a faint interest in Judaism The event is an immersion in abygone era right amid the post-Soviet reality of Ukraine
In 1048626983088983089983092 Rosh Hashanah begins at sunset on 1048626983092 September andends at nightfall of 1048626983094 September
Top After decades of
prosecution pilgrimage in Uman
is again safe and many children
mingle in the crowd
Bottom A Jewish boy tries his
brand new plastic gun bought
as a New Years present froma makeshift openair market in
Uman
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983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150 984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143Stara Zagora50 Han Asparuh St Zagorka lakephone 042 985 555 042 985 555
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983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150983123983156983137983154983137 983130983137983143983151983154983137
Липи прави улици и дружелюбна
атмосфера в един от най-интересните градове на България
текст Димитър Ивановфотография Антони Георгиев
by Dimitar Ivanovphotography by Anthony Georgieff
Lindens straight streets and
fiendly atmosphere in one o themost interesting cities o Bulgaria
984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143984097984130984112984128984112 984087984112984115984126984128984112
Когато се чудите накъде да тръгнете в първите топлидни на есента Стара Загора е едно от най-добрите ре-шения Отдалечен на 10486263983088 км по магистрала Тракияградът е изключително близо за онези които живеят вСофия и предлага много повече спокойствие и зелени-на от столицата дружелюбна атмосфера приятни заве-дения и исторически и природни забележителностикоито да запълнят кратката ви ваканция
Стара Загора е един от най-старите градове в ЕвропаПървите хора се заселили тук около VII-VI хилядоле-тие пр Хр Около IV впрХр на мястото на съвремен-на Стара Загора се появява град на траките известен с
When you are wondering where to go for the first warm days of the autumn Stara Zagora is one of the bestsolutions About 10486263983088 km on the Trakiya Motorway thecity is close enough for those living in Sofia and offersmore serenity and greenery than the capital The city hasalso nice cafeacutes and restaurants and enough historical andnature sites to fill a short holiday
Stara Zagora is one of the oldest cities in EuropeThe fist people settled in the area around the 983095-983094thmillennia BC Around the 983092th Century BC on the placeof modern Stara Zagora appeared a settlement of theThracians which was called Beroe It was conquered by
phone 042 985 555 042 985 555reservationshotelstarazagoraeu
wwwhotelstarazagoraeu
The fi ve-star Park Hotel Stara Zagora is situated on the bank of the romantic Zagorka Lake in Stara Zagora
Hotel with 31 luxurious rooms two luxurious apartments and one VIP apartment
State-of-the-art SPA centre with swimming pool jacuzzi fitness hall steam bath sauna
Turkish bath and massage room
Six conference rooms with capacity between seven and 250 people equipped with multimedia
and other presentational technique and tools Orfeida Restaurant with amazing interior and a capacity for up to 150 people plus a summer and a winter garden
Park for biking fishing boating jogging and other sports and activities
All dreams lead toPark Hotel Stara Zagora
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Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
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where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
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When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
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6 983139983151983150983156983141983150983156983155
25 High beamSt Anastasia Island
PerperikonFrom whence Kamchiya springsEscape to Leshten
issue 95ndash96 2014
PUBLISHERVagabond MEDIA
23 Budapest Street 1000 Sofia phone (+359 2) 983 3308
fax (+359 2) 983 3358editorialvagabondbg
wwwvagabondbg
MANAGING EDITOR
Anthony Georgieff anthonyvagabondbg
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR
Elena Filipova elenavagabondbg
ASSISTANT EDITOR
Jane Keating
GRAPHIC DESIGN
Gergana Shkodrova shkodrovavagabondbg
DIRECTOR OF OPERATIONS ndash
GREECE
Jeni Georgieva jenigogreecebg
MEDIA SALES
Alexandra Spiridonovaaspiridonovavagabondbg
Kristina Panayotova kristinavagabondbg
Svetlana Doncheva svetlanavagabondbg
Tsvetelina Kovacheva tsvetelinavagabondbg
Vanya Zlateva vanyavagabondbg
CONTRIBUTORS
Bozhidara Georgieva
Dimana Trankova
Dimitar Ivanov
Kristen Ghodsee
Minka Vazkresenska
Stamen Manolov
Violeta Rozov
PAPER
Cover 983090 gm2
Inner page gm2
PRINTED IN BULGARIA
Janet-45 Print amp PublishingPlovdiv
COPYRIGHT
copy Vagabond Media No partof this publication may be re-produced in any form withoutthe express written consent of
the publisher
ISSN 1312ndash8590
Unless explicitly stated the views and opinions expressed or implied in Bulgarias English
Monthly are intended for entertainment only The publisher assumes no responsibility direct or implied
for any advertising content Product s and services mentioned are subject to change without prior notice
You are strongly advised to make proper research and seek professional advice before making any financial
commitment in response to advertising material
Pursuant to Article 7a Paragraph 3 of the Bulgarian Compulsory Deposition of Printed and Other Works act
it is herewith declared that Anthony Georgieff is the sole proprietor of Vagabond Media Ltd
983145983149983152983154983145983150983156
Produced on Apple Macintosh
computer equipment only
8 983121uote-unquote
10 Jokes of the month
12 Bulgarias monthly quiz16 Interview
Lyuboslava Ruseva
24 Where in Bulgaria
58 Vagabond WorldUman Uman Rosh Hashanah
72 FictionMatthew Kneale
79 Highflights
128 Inside track
c o v e r
b y A n t h o n y G e o r g i e f f
52 Legacies of Communism Womens rights and the Cold War
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8 -
You saw whatspeculative funds did to
Argentina Argentina wentbankrupt Argentina a NATO
state a big country Wentbankrupt in one night
GERB leader BOYKO BORISOV
Probablysomewhere with
Internet coverage Prosecutor IVAN GESHEV on the whereabouts
o svetan Vasilev owner o CorporateCommercial Bank
The prosecutionis for hire Some peoplehire prosecutors just like
others hire hitmen Political s cientis t EVGENIY DAYNOVLets support
charities dedicatedto children withalthuism
GERBrsquos TSVETAN TSVETANOV
My enemies have letthe genie out of the bottle
Whoever wants to rule the statewill have to beg me
NIKOLAY BAREKOV ex journalist and lea der o Bulgaria Without Censorship
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1110
Bulgaria Without Censorships Nikolay Barekov went to see a clairvoyantand asked Tell me madam will I become prime minister
The old woman looked at him from head to toe touched his foreheadlooked at his tongue and his eyeballs took his pulse and said You willson you will You will also become Napoleon Julius Caesar Alexander theGreat
A businessman went to apply for a government contract under the PublicContract Acts The clerk looked at his application and asked Does yourcompany have 983089983088 years of experience
Yes the businessman answeredThe clerk put down a note and asked againYour company has already won 983089983093 government contracts which it has
completed successfully rightYes the businessman answered
The clerk paused wiped his forehead and inquired Does your companyhave foreign consultants
Yes the businessman repliedThe clerk sighed shook his head and looked at the businessman over his
glassesIm sorry but we cannot even admit you to take part in the competitionBut why the businessman asked in amazement What condition do we
not fulfilThe clerk put his finger down on the application Well you fail the most
important conditionAnd what is it the businessman inquiredThe name of the manager of your company is not Gadyo Vutov Gadev
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15
galleryloranyahoocom
wwwgallerylorancom
L O R A N G A L L E R Y
Petar Kolev Spring at Vratsa 1971oil canvas 10082 cm
Nevena Gancheva September the 1960soil canvas 100695 cm
Vladimir Dimitrov ndash MaystoraPortrait of Georgi Dimitrov oil canvas 97835 cm
Vasil Evtimov Down With Race Segregation 1944oil canvas 4857 cm
Kiril Mayski Brigadiers the 1950swatercolour paper 72895 cm
Sofia 16 Oborishte St(entrance from Vasil Aprilov Street)
Monday-Saturday from 11 am to 7 pm
Sunday from 11 am to 6 pmphone 02 483 0877
The diverse collection includes many
genres and styles and is representative
for the period The earliest exhibits are
the All for the Frontline All for the Victory
sketch by Vladimir Dimitrov ndash Maystora
and Down With Race Segregation by VasilEvtimov Specific attention deserves
the oil portrait of dictator Georgi
Dimitrov painted by Maystora in his
trademark style The exhibition includes
compositions dedicated to the
Brigadier Movement the
collectivisation of the agrarian lands
and the 1923 September Uprising An
accent not only because of its size is apainting by Ioan Leviev denouncing the
Pinochet regime in Chilli
The main message of the exhibition
is that the art of the period deserved
not only to be remembered but also to
be surveyed and cherished The Loran
Art Gallery is aware of the controversy
of the exhibition but it stands by itbelieving that history whatever it was
should be known and remembered
Socialist orTotalitarian Art
9 September ndash 9 October
2014
L O R A N G A L L E R Y
The current exhibition of Loran Art
Gallery is provoked by art in Socialist
Bulgaria created between 9 September
1944 and 10 November 1989 Bulgarians
still struggle with their understandingsof the period trapped between sweet
nostalgia and memories for violation
of basic human r ights The notion towards
Socialist art is equally ambiguous
In such an atmosphere it is hardly a
surprise that only two months after
Loran Art Gallery nurtured the concept
for the exhibition the gallery gatheredmore pieces of Socialist art than it could
accommodate on its premises So the
online exhibition in the gallerys website
is much richer than the actual one
The Socialist or Totalitarian Art exhibition
doesnt aim to vindicate the art of the
period or to celebrate the 70th anniversary
of the Communist coup The gallery wantsto demonstrate that the useless propaganda
art of the past today holds a significant
artistic and market value
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16 17
Analyst Lyuboslava Ruseva dissectsBulgarias politics as BoykosGERB prepare to return to power
interview and photography by Anthony Georgieff
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24 25
by Stamen Manolov
High Beam is a series of articles initiated by Vagabond Magazine with the generous support
of the America for Bulgaria Foundation that aims to provide details and background of places
cultural entities events personalities and facts of life that are sometimes difficult to understandfor the outsider in the Balkans The ultimate aim is the preservation of Bulgarias cultural heritage ndash
including but not limited to archaeological cultural and ethnic diversity
Email your answers toeditorialvagabondbg
and you can win a copy o
Wall-to-WallPoetry of Europe Vagabonds guide
to the poetry walls o Soia
This is possibly the biggest Communist-era monstrosity in
Bulgaria outshining even the Flying Saucer congress hall-cum-temple at Buzludzha It was erected in 983089983097983096983089 as part of amegalomaniacal project masterminded by Todor Zhivkovsdaughter to mark the 9830893983088983088th anniversary of the foundation ofthe Bulgaria state an euphemism for pumping up nationalismNow at least 3983088983088983088983088 tons of concrete stand exposed to theelements above a large Bulgarian city but unlike Buzludzhathis monument has not been abandoned The local city councileven charges entry fees to let you go into it A particular
favourite to Japanese and Israeli tourists (but for completelydifferent reasons)Where in Bulgaria are you
copy A n t h o n y G e o r g i e ff
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26 27
by Bozhidara Georgieva photography by Anthony Georgieff
Former monastery prisonbecomes tourist attraction
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This publicity did not have any impact on the island itself In the983089983097983094983088s Bolshevik Island became a place of recreation for the artisticcircles of Burgas but the buildings fell into disrepair and soon theonly thing still intact on the island was the lighthouse The currentlighthouse which was supplied with electricity as late as the 983089983097983094983088sdates back to 983089983096983096983097 with a major facelift in 983089983097983089983092
After the democratic changes of 983089983097983096983097 Bolshevik Island became StAnastasia Island once more The regular boat services however were
discontinued and decay overtook the former monastic and prisonbuildings St Anastasia became a ghostly place which a handful of visitors per year could reach only if they hired a fisherman to bringthem to the island A basic tavern provided even more basic foodand the more adventurous slept in the dilapidated rooms of themonastery
The desolation and decay of St Anastasia are captured withdocumentary precision in Kamen Kalevs 1048626983088983089983089 feature movie he
Island
In 1048626983088983089983092 however the Burgas City Council completed a majorreconstruction project on the island The monastery buildingshave been restored and renovated there is better accommodationfor visitors who decide to spend the night on the island and therestaurant has been improved and the tourist infrastructure includesa small museum and a medieval pharmacy where local herbs aregrown
Reaching the island is easier with regular boats leaving several timesa day from the renovated Burgas Pier The crossing takes under an
hour and makes for a lovely day trip out of Burgas The St AnastasiaIslands turbulent history seems to have been provided with a happyending
1 The lighthouse of St Anastasia
Island was built in the 1880s by a
French company but the tower is
from 1912 In the waters nearby
stands one of the geological
curiosities of the island The
Mushroom rock
2 The regular tourist boats to StAnastasia start from the renovated
pier of Burgas
3 Founded in the 16th Century
the monastery and its church
suffered heavily from pirate
raids and were renovated at the
beginning of the 19th Century In
1923 the monastery was turned
into a prison
4 Rusting remains from periods
of desolation Today St Anastasiais a welcoming place with a nice
restaurant and a multimedia
museum
1 3
4
2
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32
Magical Rhodope site tells storieso Dionysus Alexander the Great
and Augustus
by Bozhidara Georgieva photography by Anthony Georgieff
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Covering more than 983093 square kilometres Perperikon is the biggestmegalithic site in the Balkans
The first people arrived here 983096983088983088983088 years ago and carved the rocksso they could fill the crevices with fragments of pots as offerings tothe unknown deities or spirits they believed in Then these people
disappeared from Perperikon After a hiatus of about 983089983088983088983088 years atthe end of the 983093th and the beginning of the 983092th millennia BC thehill again became the focal point of religious activity In the 983089983096th-9830891048626thcenturies BC the sanctuary was already so extensive and famous thatartefacts belonging to the Minoan and Mycenaean civilisations arenow found there
Perperikon experienced a decline in the 983092th-983089st centuries BCbut when the Romans took over Thrace activity resumed and newbuildings adorned the hill In the 983094th Century however Christianity
took over and the sanctuary was abandoned Unlike other pagansacred places in the Balkans Perperikon did not fall completelysilent
Christians moved into the empty shrines built churches over themand turned Perperikon into the stronghold of local bishops It allcame to an end in 98308939830941048626 when the Ottomans invaded and people leftPerperikon for good leaving the hill to nature which soon swallowedup the remains of the churches and the Thracian shrines
The site was rediscovered by archaeologists in the 1048626983088th Century
but Perperikon only became a household name in the early 1048626983088983088983088s when excavations started again and the theory that it had belonged tothe Oracle of Dionysus was promoted as a proven fact
Previous spread Remains of cult
pits and graves in the bedrock
Perperikon was built on solid rock
so the bases of each building and
even the graves were hewn in
the stone
Deciphering the traces in the
bedrock is not easy Some believe
that the pits covering the surface
of Perperikon were only for ritual
purposes Actually most weremade to support columns of
buildings or to store food and
liquids
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Major river breaks outin Stara Planina heading
towards Black Seaby Minka Vazkresenska photography by Anthony Georgieff
How to define the source of a river is often a tough question toanswer Is it where water springs from the ground for the first timeor is it the place where two or more streams merge into a larger flowEven the source of the Danube Europes largest river is contentiousat least three springs claim to be the beginnings of the mighty river
The Kamchiya River is no exception Theoretically it is only983092983094 kilometres long and flows through northeastern Bulgaria before joining the Black Sea at a particularly beautiful and terrifyinglymosquito-infested forest With its major tributary the Golyama orGrand Kamchiya the river is 1048626983092983092 kilometres long making it the983096th longest river in Bulgaria The official source of the GolyamaKamchiya ndash and of the Kamchiya ndash is in the Lisa Planina at analtitude of about 983095983089983088 metres above sea level
But there is a spot high up in the Stara Planina on the border ofits central and eastern parts which has gained popularity as the truesource of the Kamchiya It is where the second major tributaryof the river confusingly called the Luda or Crazy Kamchiya springsup as a tiny stream runs eastwards for 1048626983088983088 kilometres and joins theGolyama Kamchiya The Luda Kamchiya is the 983089983088th longest river inBulgaria
The popularity of the Luda Kamchiyas spring as the genuinebeginning of the Kamchiya River (are you already confused)
is probably due to its location It is in a pleasant and historicallysignificant spot the Vratnik Pass connecting Veliko Tarnovo andElena to the north with Sliven south of the Stara Planina
44 45
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44 45
Situated at an altitude of 983089983088983097983095 metres above sea level and being 983089983088kilometres long the Vratnik Pass used to be a main route through themountain The Romans built a road along it and in the Middle Agesa strong fort guarded it a frequent site of battles between Bulgariansand Byzantines The importance of the pass was mirrored in its nameZhelezni Vrata and Demir Kapiya mean Iron Gates in Bulgarian andTurkish resepctively The modern-day name of the pass Vratnik wasadopted in 9830899830979830921048626 and just means Gate
Today the pass is almost deserted as most drivers prefer to avoid thenarrow potholed road which zigzags through a thick forest Even insummer when you stop at the highest part of the pass to look for theKamchiyas source you will most probably find the place empty
Actually empty means empty of tourists The forest around thespring is the temporary home of of some Gypsies families dealing with lumberjacking and mushroom-pickingTheir ragged tents madeof old blankets and sheets of nylon are all over the place as are theheaps of household garbage
The scenery becomes almost surreal when mist descends drenchingthe forest in white and leaving only the dark trunks of the closesttrees visible
The Luda Kamchiyas spring is east of the road in a depressionhidden by tall trees Spectacular it is not as it is fed into a waterfountain The water fountain inscription however is grandiose Tothose fallen for freedom Glorify their sacred feat you unendinglyflowing Kamchiya
There is some justification for this Only 1048626 kilometres east of thespring is Aglikina Polyana or Aglikas Meadow where the Bulgarianhayduti or 983089983097th Century rebels used to meet They lived in themountains as far away from the Ottoman authorities as possibleexcept for when they attacked and robbed Ottoman convoys at the pass
Aglikina Polyana is heavily represented in Bulgarian heroic folklorehas a protected area status and hosts a regular folklore meeting
You can visit Aglikina Polyana from here but in any case be sure to
kneel at the water fountain which is the source of the Luda Kamchiyaand take a drink It is not that often that you can drink the cool clear waters of a river at its source
Top Semi-wild horses roam freely
around the Vratnik Pass
Bottom The beginnings of a 200-
kilometre Luda Kamchiya river
46 47
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46 47
Remote village pro983158idesunspoilt old-time atmosphere great ood by Violeta Rozova photography by Anthony Georgieff
Rural tourism in Bulgaria was barely known 1048626983088 years ago butin the early 1048626983088983088983088s it experienced an EU-funded boom But in thelate 1048626983088983088983088s the still ongoing economic crisis hit and now manyguesthouses are struggling to survive with the decreased numberof visitors In the western fringes of the Rhodope however is atraditional village which is still one of the best places for ruraltourism in Bulgaria
Leshten close to Gotse Delchev actually invented rural tourismin Bulgaria Since the mid-983089983097983097983088s it has been the first choice for anescape from the big city for all those interested in clean air delicioushealthy food and genuinely and intelligently preserved architecture
Truth to tell Leshten is hardly a village nowadays Only 983089983088 peoplelive there and most of them are septuagenarian In the 983089983097th and thefirst half of the 1048626983088th centuries however Leshten was a bustling placehome to more than 983093983088983088 people Unlike the inhabitants of nearbyKovachevitsa who built three- and four-storey mini fortresses to
protect their riches the people of Leshten were poor They had lessto lose and so they built houses of only two floors The ground level was for the livestock and the one above for the families
48 49
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4 49
Top A statue of two icecream
cones
Bottom The Buzludzha complex is
famous for its ghastly atmosphere
32
4
Kovachevitsa and Leshten both began to lose inhabitants at a greatrate after the Communist coup of 983089983097983092983092 when industrialisation andforced collectivisation striped the villagers of their livelihood andforced them to seek jobs in cities Kovachevitsa as a much grander village attracted the attention of Bulgarian film-makers in the 983089983097983095983088sand experienced a wave of new settlers mostly Sofia intellectuals who bought holiday homes there
Leshten was rediscovered much laterIn the mid-983089983097983097983088s a couple from Sofia found themselves in the
village with its ghostly and abandoned old houses They fell in love with Leshten as it had an unexpected advantage over crowd-pulling
Kovachevitsa Kovachevitsa is deep in the mountains and does nothave much of a vistaLeshten however has a marvellous view over the valley of the
Mesta River with the blue slopes of the Pirin defining the horizon983121uite unusually for the mid-983089983097983097983088s when everyone was either
leaving Bulgaria or flocking to Sofia where job prospects were betterthe couple moved to Leshten They bought some of the houses andturned them into holiday lets while preserving as much as possiblethe traditional architecture and opened one of the best restaurants
in Bulgaria This was in the long-disused local school next to thebeautiful and tiny St Paraskeva Church which dates from 9830899830963983094 and iscovered inside with primitive but captivating murals
1
1 The key to your room Each
detail in the 200-year old Leshten
houses has been preserved
2 3 The St Paraskeva Church
was built in 1837 and has been
listed as a local monument of
culture
4 Having breakfast while enjoying
the view to the Mesta Valley and
the Pirin is one of Leshtens many
pleasures
50 51
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The food in the tavern was locally sourced long before this became
fashionable Almost everything on the menu comes from the areafrom the wild berry juice and the thick sheeprsquos yoghurt to thetraditional egg noodles and the meatballs which are prepared not ofmince but of finely chopped meat
The restored traditional houses are on a par with the foods qualityIntelligently preserved yet having mod cons they smell of ageing wood geraniums and of woollen rugs warmed by the sun The wallsare whitewashed white linen curtains with embroidery shade the windows and the slightly crooked beams of the floor squeak quietly
under your feetRecently however more people decided to profit on Leshten
More houses were turned into hotels and as the competition grewone night the old school caught fire and burned to the ground Thetavern was re-established in a newer building with a beautiful viewof the Mesta Valley The food is still gorgeous the best the Rhodopeand the people living in these beautiful mountains can give you
This series of articles is supported by theAmerica for Bulgaria Foundation The
statements and opinions expressed herein
are those of the authors and do not necessarily
reflect the opinion of the America for Bulgaria
Foundation and its partners
1 Stone was used extensively in
building the houses of Leshten
and even the roofs are f rom rock
The technique was popular in
Bulgaria until the beginning of
the 20th Century but was later
abandoned It has been enjoying
a revival in recent years as surge
of interest in eco tourism has
brought it back to fashion
2 Leshten is a good basefor exploring of the Western
Rhodope with traditional villages
like Kovachevitsa and Dolen and
pristine wild nature all around
3 Fresco from St Paraskeva
Church with a didactic scene
advertising the advantages of
pious life
3
1
2
52 53
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Case study of senior Communist offi cialElena Lagadinova reveals unexpectedaspects of superpower confrontation
by Kristen Ghodsee all photographs courtesy of the author
One of the great ironies of the Cold War is that the twosuperpowers often championed issues that they cared little aboutin practice The East bloc defended the social rights of the worldrsquos workers while treating their own citizens like indentured servantsThe United States campaigned for political freedoms abroad whilebrutally oppressing or marginalising their own African-Americanand Native American populations at home Any rhetoric thatcould be deployed against the enemy became a weapon in the widerideological battle
Today historians and social scientists are studying the internationallegacies of these Cold War rivalries over social and politicalrights Whether it is labor conventions at the International LaborOrganisation political self-determination for previously colonisedcountries or the end to state-sanctioned racial discrimination in theUnited States or in apartheid-era South Africa the general scholarlyconsensus is that ordinary people ndash whether in the capitalist
Communist or developing worlds ndash benefitted from superpowercompetition An unintended consequence of American and Sovietgrandstanding was often real social progress
1
2
2
4
54
6 7
1 Elena The Amazon
Lagadinova in 1945
2 With Valentina Tereshkova
3 Delivering a speech in 1970
4 With the US activist Angela
Davis in 1972
5 Hosting a school for African
women leaders in Sofia in 1982
6 Lagadinova (left) with an
young Irina Bokova (right) at
the Third UN Conference on
Women in Nairobi in 1985
7 In Razlog with Kristen
Ghodsee in 2013
3
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Tousands o Hassidim gatherin Ukrainian city to celebrate
Jewish New Year by Dimana Trankova photography by Anthony Georgieff
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Dusty and drab devoid of any charm unless you count the 983089983096thCentury Sofyivka Park and the Georgian cheese pastries at the busstation the Ukrainian city of Uman would be a strong contender forthe most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe
But it is not the most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe ndash atleast not for a couple of days each year when it gets filled with joyfulcrowds of Ultra religious Jews flown in from as far as Canada BritainIsrael and Australia to celebrate the Jewish New Year usually inSeptember They all converge at Pushkin Street take out their heavyluggage and drag it to their rented rooms in small houses and tallSocialist apartment blocks Music is booming the smell of cookedfood comes from the tents of the openair eateries Happy people inthe streets greet each other smiling from ear to ear when they meetand embrace some old friend
Uman a city of roughly 983097983088983088983088983088 residents in western Ukraine is thefocus of pilgrimage for Hasidic Jews who come here to celebrate atthe tomb of one of their greatest spiritual leaders
Rebbe Nachman (9830899830959830951048626-983089983096983089983088) of Breslov was the great-grandson ofBaal Shem Tov the founder of Hasidism a conservative movementthat spread among the Ashkenazi Jews in Eastern Europe He showedthe first signs of having a special connection with the divine as earlyas 983089983095 and spent the next decades of his life moving around the areaof what is now western Ukraine and eastern Poland attractingfollowers Rebbe Nachmans travels even brought him to Palestine where he met and talked with prominent Jewish sages and scholars
In 9830899830969830881048626 he settled in Bratslav (as Breslov is more commonlyknown) and announced the creation of a new movement ofHasidism the Breslov Hasidism
When pilgrimage to Rebbe
Nachmans grave resumed in
the early 1990s the locals ofUman were amazed by the Rosh
Hashanah antics of visiting Jews
62 63
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Rebbe Nachman was incredibly popular but not everyone
liked him because of some of his more radical ideas one of whichencouraged people to feel free to find spiritual leaders for themselvesand to break with the tradition of the hereditary Hasidic dynastiesRebbe Nachman also encouraged the individual search for the divineHis teachings spread during tumultuous times The beginning of the983089983097th Century saw the spread of democratic ideas across Europe andfor the first time in centuries Jews enjoyed ndash at least theoretically ndashequal rights Many chose fuller integration into the modernEuropean society but for more conservative Jews these changesthreatened the foundation of their communities The teachingsof Rebbe Nachman were a sort of reaction to this trend blendingtradition with more individual freedom
Whether Rebbe Nachman thought of himself as a Messiah is stilla matter of dispute Some phrases from his teachings would makegreat Facebook quotes in todays era of soul-searching and positivethinking such as If you believe that you can damage then believethat you can fixrdquo or You are never given an obstacle you cannotovercome
In Breslov Rebbe Nachman saw his movement flourish andgrow with great crowds of followers assembling for feasts like RoshHashanah Chanukah or Shavuot when they eagerly listened to histeachings In 983089983096983089983088 however he had to move
Consumption had been devouring the still young Rebbe Nachmanfor some time and then his house was destroyed by fire He movedto nearby Uman a town of great significance for the local Jewishcommunity In 983089983095983094983096 about 1048626983088983088983088983088 Jews from Uman along withmany Poles and Uniate Ukrainians were killed by the UkrainianHaidamak rebels who had risen against the then Polish-LithuanianCommonwealth
1 Selling Rebbe Nachman-
themed techno music on Pushkin
Street
2 For many Breslov Hasidim the
pilgrimage is also an opportunity
to meet old friends and make
new ones
3 Rebbe Nachman is the
descendant of Baal Shem Tov the
founder of Hasidism a branch
of Orthodox Judaism wheremysticism is at the foundation of
spirituality
3
1
2
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Over the following two decades the Rosh Hashanah gatheringin Uman became ever stronger On average about 983089983088983088983088983088-983089983093983088983088983088Hasidim come to celebrate each year The atmosphere is festive in thestreets and tense around the grave of Rebbe Nachman and peopleare generally friendly even when they notice the odd tourist in thecrowd Many of the pilgrims get tipsy and dance to rave and rock
music booming from stalls gardens and balconies Children runto and fro carrying presents bought from the ramshackle openairmarket
There are signs however that these people are not the average partygoers The song lyrics are devoted to Rebbe Nachman Umanand Rosh Hashanah Shofars howl and the streets are lined withbarbers shaving the heads of pilgrims in the traditional way The posters on the walls announce the scheduled flights to and fromUman and the crowd is predominantly male
Sometimes there is violence Many locals are not happy with the pilgrims and the fact that many Hasidim have bought propertiesaround Pushkin Street introducing their very specific lifestyle Thereare complaints about the noise and the rubbish and the level ofsecurity 1048626983088983089983088 is remembered for several sometimes bloody fightsbetween locals and pilgrims Overall though visiting Uman for RoshHashanah can turn into the experience of a lifetime even for people with only a faint interest in Judaism The event is an immersion in abygone era right amid the post-Soviet reality of Ukraine
In 1048626983088983089983092 Rosh Hashanah begins at sunset on 1048626983092 September andends at nightfall of 1048626983094 September
Top After decades of
prosecution pilgrimage in Uman
is again safe and many children
mingle in the crowd
Bottom A Jewish boy tries his
brand new plastic gun bought
as a New Years present froma makeshift openair market in
Uman
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82
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150 984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143Stara Zagora50 Han Asparuh St Zagorka lakephone 042 985 555 042 985 555
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983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150983123983156983137983154983137 983130983137983143983151983154983137
Липи прави улици и дружелюбна
атмосфера в един от най-интересните градове на България
текст Димитър Ивановфотография Антони Георгиев
by Dimitar Ivanovphotography by Anthony Georgieff
Lindens straight streets and
fiendly atmosphere in one o themost interesting cities o Bulgaria
984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143984097984130984112984128984112 984087984112984115984126984128984112
Когато се чудите накъде да тръгнете в първите топлидни на есента Стара Загора е едно от най-добрите ре-шения Отдалечен на 10486263983088 км по магистрала Тракияградът е изключително близо за онези които живеят вСофия и предлага много повече спокойствие и зелени-на от столицата дружелюбна атмосфера приятни заве-дения и исторически и природни забележителностикоито да запълнят кратката ви ваканция
Стара Загора е един от най-старите градове в ЕвропаПървите хора се заселили тук около VII-VI хилядоле-тие пр Хр Около IV впрХр на мястото на съвремен-на Стара Загора се появява град на траките известен с
When you are wondering where to go for the first warm days of the autumn Stara Zagora is one of the bestsolutions About 10486263983088 km on the Trakiya Motorway thecity is close enough for those living in Sofia and offersmore serenity and greenery than the capital The city hasalso nice cafeacutes and restaurants and enough historical andnature sites to fill a short holiday
Stara Zagora is one of the oldest cities in EuropeThe fist people settled in the area around the 983095-983094thmillennia BC Around the 983092th Century BC on the placeof modern Stara Zagora appeared a settlement of theThracians which was called Beroe It was conquered by
phone 042 985 555 042 985 555reservationshotelstarazagoraeu
wwwhotelstarazagoraeu
The fi ve-star Park Hotel Stara Zagora is situated on the bank of the romantic Zagorka Lake in Stara Zagora
Hotel with 31 luxurious rooms two luxurious apartments and one VIP apartment
State-of-the-art SPA centre with swimming pool jacuzzi fitness hall steam bath sauna
Turkish bath and massage room
Six conference rooms with capacity between seven and 250 people equipped with multimedia
and other presentational technique and tools Orfeida Restaurant with amazing interior and a capacity for up to 150 people plus a summer and a winter garden
Park for biking fishing boating jogging and other sports and activities
All dreams lead toPark Hotel Stara Zagora
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
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where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
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8 -
You saw whatspeculative funds did to
Argentina Argentina wentbankrupt Argentina a NATO
state a big country Wentbankrupt in one night
GERB leader BOYKO BORISOV
Probablysomewhere with
Internet coverage Prosecutor IVAN GESHEV on the whereabouts
o svetan Vasilev owner o CorporateCommercial Bank
The prosecutionis for hire Some peoplehire prosecutors just like
others hire hitmen Political s cientis t EVGENIY DAYNOVLets support
charities dedicatedto children withalthuism
GERBrsquos TSVETAN TSVETANOV
My enemies have letthe genie out of the bottle
Whoever wants to rule the statewill have to beg me
NIKOLAY BAREKOV ex journalist and lea der o Bulgaria Without Censorship
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1110
Bulgaria Without Censorships Nikolay Barekov went to see a clairvoyantand asked Tell me madam will I become prime minister
The old woman looked at him from head to toe touched his foreheadlooked at his tongue and his eyeballs took his pulse and said You willson you will You will also become Napoleon Julius Caesar Alexander theGreat
A businessman went to apply for a government contract under the PublicContract Acts The clerk looked at his application and asked Does yourcompany have 983089983088 years of experience
Yes the businessman answeredThe clerk put down a note and asked againYour company has already won 983089983093 government contracts which it has
completed successfully rightYes the businessman answered
The clerk paused wiped his forehead and inquired Does your companyhave foreign consultants
Yes the businessman repliedThe clerk sighed shook his head and looked at the businessman over his
glassesIm sorry but we cannot even admit you to take part in the competitionBut why the businessman asked in amazement What condition do we
not fulfilThe clerk put his finger down on the application Well you fail the most
important conditionAnd what is it the businessman inquiredThe name of the manager of your company is not Gadyo Vutov Gadev
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15
galleryloranyahoocom
wwwgallerylorancom
L O R A N G A L L E R Y
Petar Kolev Spring at Vratsa 1971oil canvas 10082 cm
Nevena Gancheva September the 1960soil canvas 100695 cm
Vladimir Dimitrov ndash MaystoraPortrait of Georgi Dimitrov oil canvas 97835 cm
Vasil Evtimov Down With Race Segregation 1944oil canvas 4857 cm
Kiril Mayski Brigadiers the 1950swatercolour paper 72895 cm
Sofia 16 Oborishte St(entrance from Vasil Aprilov Street)
Monday-Saturday from 11 am to 7 pm
Sunday from 11 am to 6 pmphone 02 483 0877
The diverse collection includes many
genres and styles and is representative
for the period The earliest exhibits are
the All for the Frontline All for the Victory
sketch by Vladimir Dimitrov ndash Maystora
and Down With Race Segregation by VasilEvtimov Specific attention deserves
the oil portrait of dictator Georgi
Dimitrov painted by Maystora in his
trademark style The exhibition includes
compositions dedicated to the
Brigadier Movement the
collectivisation of the agrarian lands
and the 1923 September Uprising An
accent not only because of its size is apainting by Ioan Leviev denouncing the
Pinochet regime in Chilli
The main message of the exhibition
is that the art of the period deserved
not only to be remembered but also to
be surveyed and cherished The Loran
Art Gallery is aware of the controversy
of the exhibition but it stands by itbelieving that history whatever it was
should be known and remembered
Socialist orTotalitarian Art
9 September ndash 9 October
2014
L O R A N G A L L E R Y
The current exhibition of Loran Art
Gallery is provoked by art in Socialist
Bulgaria created between 9 September
1944 and 10 November 1989 Bulgarians
still struggle with their understandingsof the period trapped between sweet
nostalgia and memories for violation
of basic human r ights The notion towards
Socialist art is equally ambiguous
In such an atmosphere it is hardly a
surprise that only two months after
Loran Art Gallery nurtured the concept
for the exhibition the gallery gatheredmore pieces of Socialist art than it could
accommodate on its premises So the
online exhibition in the gallerys website
is much richer than the actual one
The Socialist or Totalitarian Art exhibition
doesnt aim to vindicate the art of the
period or to celebrate the 70th anniversary
of the Communist coup The gallery wantsto demonstrate that the useless propaganda
art of the past today holds a significant
artistic and market value
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16 17
Analyst Lyuboslava Ruseva dissectsBulgarias politics as BoykosGERB prepare to return to power
interview and photography by Anthony Georgieff
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24 25
by Stamen Manolov
High Beam is a series of articles initiated by Vagabond Magazine with the generous support
of the America for Bulgaria Foundation that aims to provide details and background of places
cultural entities events personalities and facts of life that are sometimes difficult to understandfor the outsider in the Balkans The ultimate aim is the preservation of Bulgarias cultural heritage ndash
including but not limited to archaeological cultural and ethnic diversity
Email your answers toeditorialvagabondbg
and you can win a copy o
Wall-to-WallPoetry of Europe Vagabonds guide
to the poetry walls o Soia
This is possibly the biggest Communist-era monstrosity in
Bulgaria outshining even the Flying Saucer congress hall-cum-temple at Buzludzha It was erected in 983089983097983096983089 as part of amegalomaniacal project masterminded by Todor Zhivkovsdaughter to mark the 9830893983088983088th anniversary of the foundation ofthe Bulgaria state an euphemism for pumping up nationalismNow at least 3983088983088983088983088 tons of concrete stand exposed to theelements above a large Bulgarian city but unlike Buzludzhathis monument has not been abandoned The local city councileven charges entry fees to let you go into it A particular
favourite to Japanese and Israeli tourists (but for completelydifferent reasons)Where in Bulgaria are you
copy A n t h o n y G e o r g i e ff
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26 27
by Bozhidara Georgieva photography by Anthony Georgieff
Former monastery prisonbecomes tourist attraction
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30 31
This publicity did not have any impact on the island itself In the983089983097983094983088s Bolshevik Island became a place of recreation for the artisticcircles of Burgas but the buildings fell into disrepair and soon theonly thing still intact on the island was the lighthouse The currentlighthouse which was supplied with electricity as late as the 983089983097983094983088sdates back to 983089983096983096983097 with a major facelift in 983089983097983089983092
After the democratic changes of 983089983097983096983097 Bolshevik Island became StAnastasia Island once more The regular boat services however were
discontinued and decay overtook the former monastic and prisonbuildings St Anastasia became a ghostly place which a handful of visitors per year could reach only if they hired a fisherman to bringthem to the island A basic tavern provided even more basic foodand the more adventurous slept in the dilapidated rooms of themonastery
The desolation and decay of St Anastasia are captured withdocumentary precision in Kamen Kalevs 1048626983088983089983089 feature movie he
Island
In 1048626983088983089983092 however the Burgas City Council completed a majorreconstruction project on the island The monastery buildingshave been restored and renovated there is better accommodationfor visitors who decide to spend the night on the island and therestaurant has been improved and the tourist infrastructure includesa small museum and a medieval pharmacy where local herbs aregrown
Reaching the island is easier with regular boats leaving several timesa day from the renovated Burgas Pier The crossing takes under an
hour and makes for a lovely day trip out of Burgas The St AnastasiaIslands turbulent history seems to have been provided with a happyending
1 The lighthouse of St Anastasia
Island was built in the 1880s by a
French company but the tower is
from 1912 In the waters nearby
stands one of the geological
curiosities of the island The
Mushroom rock
2 The regular tourist boats to StAnastasia start from the renovated
pier of Burgas
3 Founded in the 16th Century
the monastery and its church
suffered heavily from pirate
raids and were renovated at the
beginning of the 19th Century In
1923 the monastery was turned
into a prison
4 Rusting remains from periods
of desolation Today St Anastasiais a welcoming place with a nice
restaurant and a multimedia
museum
1 3
4
2
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32
Magical Rhodope site tells storieso Dionysus Alexander the Great
and Augustus
by Bozhidara Georgieva photography by Anthony Georgieff
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Covering more than 983093 square kilometres Perperikon is the biggestmegalithic site in the Balkans
The first people arrived here 983096983088983088983088 years ago and carved the rocksso they could fill the crevices with fragments of pots as offerings tothe unknown deities or spirits they believed in Then these people
disappeared from Perperikon After a hiatus of about 983089983088983088983088 years atthe end of the 983093th and the beginning of the 983092th millennia BC thehill again became the focal point of religious activity In the 983089983096th-9830891048626thcenturies BC the sanctuary was already so extensive and famous thatartefacts belonging to the Minoan and Mycenaean civilisations arenow found there
Perperikon experienced a decline in the 983092th-983089st centuries BCbut when the Romans took over Thrace activity resumed and newbuildings adorned the hill In the 983094th Century however Christianity
took over and the sanctuary was abandoned Unlike other pagansacred places in the Balkans Perperikon did not fall completelysilent
Christians moved into the empty shrines built churches over themand turned Perperikon into the stronghold of local bishops It allcame to an end in 98308939830941048626 when the Ottomans invaded and people leftPerperikon for good leaving the hill to nature which soon swallowedup the remains of the churches and the Thracian shrines
The site was rediscovered by archaeologists in the 1048626983088th Century
but Perperikon only became a household name in the early 1048626983088983088983088s when excavations started again and the theory that it had belonged tothe Oracle of Dionysus was promoted as a proven fact
Previous spread Remains of cult
pits and graves in the bedrock
Perperikon was built on solid rock
so the bases of each building and
even the graves were hewn in
the stone
Deciphering the traces in the
bedrock is not easy Some believe
that the pits covering the surface
of Perperikon were only for ritual
purposes Actually most weremade to support columns of
buildings or to store food and
liquids
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Major river breaks outin Stara Planina heading
towards Black Seaby Minka Vazkresenska photography by Anthony Georgieff
How to define the source of a river is often a tough question toanswer Is it where water springs from the ground for the first timeor is it the place where two or more streams merge into a larger flowEven the source of the Danube Europes largest river is contentiousat least three springs claim to be the beginnings of the mighty river
The Kamchiya River is no exception Theoretically it is only983092983094 kilometres long and flows through northeastern Bulgaria before joining the Black Sea at a particularly beautiful and terrifyinglymosquito-infested forest With its major tributary the Golyama orGrand Kamchiya the river is 1048626983092983092 kilometres long making it the983096th longest river in Bulgaria The official source of the GolyamaKamchiya ndash and of the Kamchiya ndash is in the Lisa Planina at analtitude of about 983095983089983088 metres above sea level
But there is a spot high up in the Stara Planina on the border ofits central and eastern parts which has gained popularity as the truesource of the Kamchiya It is where the second major tributaryof the river confusingly called the Luda or Crazy Kamchiya springsup as a tiny stream runs eastwards for 1048626983088983088 kilometres and joins theGolyama Kamchiya The Luda Kamchiya is the 983089983088th longest river inBulgaria
The popularity of the Luda Kamchiyas spring as the genuinebeginning of the Kamchiya River (are you already confused)
is probably due to its location It is in a pleasant and historicallysignificant spot the Vratnik Pass connecting Veliko Tarnovo andElena to the north with Sliven south of the Stara Planina
44 45
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44 45
Situated at an altitude of 983089983088983097983095 metres above sea level and being 983089983088kilometres long the Vratnik Pass used to be a main route through themountain The Romans built a road along it and in the Middle Agesa strong fort guarded it a frequent site of battles between Bulgariansand Byzantines The importance of the pass was mirrored in its nameZhelezni Vrata and Demir Kapiya mean Iron Gates in Bulgarian andTurkish resepctively The modern-day name of the pass Vratnik wasadopted in 9830899830979830921048626 and just means Gate
Today the pass is almost deserted as most drivers prefer to avoid thenarrow potholed road which zigzags through a thick forest Even insummer when you stop at the highest part of the pass to look for theKamchiyas source you will most probably find the place empty
Actually empty means empty of tourists The forest around thespring is the temporary home of of some Gypsies families dealing with lumberjacking and mushroom-pickingTheir ragged tents madeof old blankets and sheets of nylon are all over the place as are theheaps of household garbage
The scenery becomes almost surreal when mist descends drenchingthe forest in white and leaving only the dark trunks of the closesttrees visible
The Luda Kamchiyas spring is east of the road in a depressionhidden by tall trees Spectacular it is not as it is fed into a waterfountain The water fountain inscription however is grandiose Tothose fallen for freedom Glorify their sacred feat you unendinglyflowing Kamchiya
There is some justification for this Only 1048626 kilometres east of thespring is Aglikina Polyana or Aglikas Meadow where the Bulgarianhayduti or 983089983097th Century rebels used to meet They lived in themountains as far away from the Ottoman authorities as possibleexcept for when they attacked and robbed Ottoman convoys at the pass
Aglikina Polyana is heavily represented in Bulgarian heroic folklorehas a protected area status and hosts a regular folklore meeting
You can visit Aglikina Polyana from here but in any case be sure to
kneel at the water fountain which is the source of the Luda Kamchiyaand take a drink It is not that often that you can drink the cool clear waters of a river at its source
Top Semi-wild horses roam freely
around the Vratnik Pass
Bottom The beginnings of a 200-
kilometre Luda Kamchiya river
46 47
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Remote village pro983158idesunspoilt old-time atmosphere great ood by Violeta Rozova photography by Anthony Georgieff
Rural tourism in Bulgaria was barely known 1048626983088 years ago butin the early 1048626983088983088983088s it experienced an EU-funded boom But in thelate 1048626983088983088983088s the still ongoing economic crisis hit and now manyguesthouses are struggling to survive with the decreased numberof visitors In the western fringes of the Rhodope however is atraditional village which is still one of the best places for ruraltourism in Bulgaria
Leshten close to Gotse Delchev actually invented rural tourismin Bulgaria Since the mid-983089983097983097983088s it has been the first choice for anescape from the big city for all those interested in clean air delicioushealthy food and genuinely and intelligently preserved architecture
Truth to tell Leshten is hardly a village nowadays Only 983089983088 peoplelive there and most of them are septuagenarian In the 983089983097th and thefirst half of the 1048626983088th centuries however Leshten was a bustling placehome to more than 983093983088983088 people Unlike the inhabitants of nearbyKovachevitsa who built three- and four-storey mini fortresses to
protect their riches the people of Leshten were poor They had lessto lose and so they built houses of only two floors The ground level was for the livestock and the one above for the families
48 49
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4 49
Top A statue of two icecream
cones
Bottom The Buzludzha complex is
famous for its ghastly atmosphere
32
4
Kovachevitsa and Leshten both began to lose inhabitants at a greatrate after the Communist coup of 983089983097983092983092 when industrialisation andforced collectivisation striped the villagers of their livelihood andforced them to seek jobs in cities Kovachevitsa as a much grander village attracted the attention of Bulgarian film-makers in the 983089983097983095983088sand experienced a wave of new settlers mostly Sofia intellectuals who bought holiday homes there
Leshten was rediscovered much laterIn the mid-983089983097983097983088s a couple from Sofia found themselves in the
village with its ghostly and abandoned old houses They fell in love with Leshten as it had an unexpected advantage over crowd-pulling
Kovachevitsa Kovachevitsa is deep in the mountains and does nothave much of a vistaLeshten however has a marvellous view over the valley of the
Mesta River with the blue slopes of the Pirin defining the horizon983121uite unusually for the mid-983089983097983097983088s when everyone was either
leaving Bulgaria or flocking to Sofia where job prospects were betterthe couple moved to Leshten They bought some of the houses andturned them into holiday lets while preserving as much as possiblethe traditional architecture and opened one of the best restaurants
in Bulgaria This was in the long-disused local school next to thebeautiful and tiny St Paraskeva Church which dates from 9830899830963983094 and iscovered inside with primitive but captivating murals
1
1 The key to your room Each
detail in the 200-year old Leshten
houses has been preserved
2 3 The St Paraskeva Church
was built in 1837 and has been
listed as a local monument of
culture
4 Having breakfast while enjoying
the view to the Mesta Valley and
the Pirin is one of Leshtens many
pleasures
50 51
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The food in the tavern was locally sourced long before this became
fashionable Almost everything on the menu comes from the areafrom the wild berry juice and the thick sheeprsquos yoghurt to thetraditional egg noodles and the meatballs which are prepared not ofmince but of finely chopped meat
The restored traditional houses are on a par with the foods qualityIntelligently preserved yet having mod cons they smell of ageing wood geraniums and of woollen rugs warmed by the sun The wallsare whitewashed white linen curtains with embroidery shade the windows and the slightly crooked beams of the floor squeak quietly
under your feetRecently however more people decided to profit on Leshten
More houses were turned into hotels and as the competition grewone night the old school caught fire and burned to the ground Thetavern was re-established in a newer building with a beautiful viewof the Mesta Valley The food is still gorgeous the best the Rhodopeand the people living in these beautiful mountains can give you
This series of articles is supported by theAmerica for Bulgaria Foundation The
statements and opinions expressed herein
are those of the authors and do not necessarily
reflect the opinion of the America for Bulgaria
Foundation and its partners
1 Stone was used extensively in
building the houses of Leshten
and even the roofs are f rom rock
The technique was popular in
Bulgaria until the beginning of
the 20th Century but was later
abandoned It has been enjoying
a revival in recent years as surge
of interest in eco tourism has
brought it back to fashion
2 Leshten is a good basefor exploring of the Western
Rhodope with traditional villages
like Kovachevitsa and Dolen and
pristine wild nature all around
3 Fresco from St Paraskeva
Church with a didactic scene
advertising the advantages of
pious life
3
1
2
52 53
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Case study of senior Communist offi cialElena Lagadinova reveals unexpectedaspects of superpower confrontation
by Kristen Ghodsee all photographs courtesy of the author
One of the great ironies of the Cold War is that the twosuperpowers often championed issues that they cared little aboutin practice The East bloc defended the social rights of the worldrsquos workers while treating their own citizens like indentured servantsThe United States campaigned for political freedoms abroad whilebrutally oppressing or marginalising their own African-Americanand Native American populations at home Any rhetoric thatcould be deployed against the enemy became a weapon in the widerideological battle
Today historians and social scientists are studying the internationallegacies of these Cold War rivalries over social and politicalrights Whether it is labor conventions at the International LaborOrganisation political self-determination for previously colonisedcountries or the end to state-sanctioned racial discrimination in theUnited States or in apartheid-era South Africa the general scholarlyconsensus is that ordinary people ndash whether in the capitalist
Communist or developing worlds ndash benefitted from superpowercompetition An unintended consequence of American and Sovietgrandstanding was often real social progress
1
2
2
4
54
6 7
1 Elena The Amazon
Lagadinova in 1945
2 With Valentina Tereshkova
3 Delivering a speech in 1970
4 With the US activist Angela
Davis in 1972
5 Hosting a school for African
women leaders in Sofia in 1982
6 Lagadinova (left) with an
young Irina Bokova (right) at
the Third UN Conference on
Women in Nairobi in 1985
7 In Razlog with Kristen
Ghodsee in 2013
3
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Tousands o Hassidim gatherin Ukrainian city to celebrate
Jewish New Year by Dimana Trankova photography by Anthony Georgieff
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Dusty and drab devoid of any charm unless you count the 983089983096thCentury Sofyivka Park and the Georgian cheese pastries at the busstation the Ukrainian city of Uman would be a strong contender forthe most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe
But it is not the most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe ndash atleast not for a couple of days each year when it gets filled with joyfulcrowds of Ultra religious Jews flown in from as far as Canada BritainIsrael and Australia to celebrate the Jewish New Year usually inSeptember They all converge at Pushkin Street take out their heavyluggage and drag it to their rented rooms in small houses and tallSocialist apartment blocks Music is booming the smell of cookedfood comes from the tents of the openair eateries Happy people inthe streets greet each other smiling from ear to ear when they meetand embrace some old friend
Uman a city of roughly 983097983088983088983088983088 residents in western Ukraine is thefocus of pilgrimage for Hasidic Jews who come here to celebrate atthe tomb of one of their greatest spiritual leaders
Rebbe Nachman (9830899830959830951048626-983089983096983089983088) of Breslov was the great-grandson ofBaal Shem Tov the founder of Hasidism a conservative movementthat spread among the Ashkenazi Jews in Eastern Europe He showedthe first signs of having a special connection with the divine as earlyas 983089983095 and spent the next decades of his life moving around the areaof what is now western Ukraine and eastern Poland attractingfollowers Rebbe Nachmans travels even brought him to Palestine where he met and talked with prominent Jewish sages and scholars
In 9830899830969830881048626 he settled in Bratslav (as Breslov is more commonlyknown) and announced the creation of a new movement ofHasidism the Breslov Hasidism
When pilgrimage to Rebbe
Nachmans grave resumed in
the early 1990s the locals ofUman were amazed by the Rosh
Hashanah antics of visiting Jews
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Rebbe Nachman was incredibly popular but not everyone
liked him because of some of his more radical ideas one of whichencouraged people to feel free to find spiritual leaders for themselvesand to break with the tradition of the hereditary Hasidic dynastiesRebbe Nachman also encouraged the individual search for the divineHis teachings spread during tumultuous times The beginning of the983089983097th Century saw the spread of democratic ideas across Europe andfor the first time in centuries Jews enjoyed ndash at least theoretically ndashequal rights Many chose fuller integration into the modernEuropean society but for more conservative Jews these changesthreatened the foundation of their communities The teachingsof Rebbe Nachman were a sort of reaction to this trend blendingtradition with more individual freedom
Whether Rebbe Nachman thought of himself as a Messiah is stilla matter of dispute Some phrases from his teachings would makegreat Facebook quotes in todays era of soul-searching and positivethinking such as If you believe that you can damage then believethat you can fixrdquo or You are never given an obstacle you cannotovercome
In Breslov Rebbe Nachman saw his movement flourish andgrow with great crowds of followers assembling for feasts like RoshHashanah Chanukah or Shavuot when they eagerly listened to histeachings In 983089983096983089983088 however he had to move
Consumption had been devouring the still young Rebbe Nachmanfor some time and then his house was destroyed by fire He movedto nearby Uman a town of great significance for the local Jewishcommunity In 983089983095983094983096 about 1048626983088983088983088983088 Jews from Uman along withmany Poles and Uniate Ukrainians were killed by the UkrainianHaidamak rebels who had risen against the then Polish-LithuanianCommonwealth
1 Selling Rebbe Nachman-
themed techno music on Pushkin
Street
2 For many Breslov Hasidim the
pilgrimage is also an opportunity
to meet old friends and make
new ones
3 Rebbe Nachman is the
descendant of Baal Shem Tov the
founder of Hasidism a branch
of Orthodox Judaism wheremysticism is at the foundation of
spirituality
3
1
2
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Over the following two decades the Rosh Hashanah gatheringin Uman became ever stronger On average about 983089983088983088983088983088-983089983093983088983088983088Hasidim come to celebrate each year The atmosphere is festive in thestreets and tense around the grave of Rebbe Nachman and peopleare generally friendly even when they notice the odd tourist in thecrowd Many of the pilgrims get tipsy and dance to rave and rock
music booming from stalls gardens and balconies Children runto and fro carrying presents bought from the ramshackle openairmarket
There are signs however that these people are not the average partygoers The song lyrics are devoted to Rebbe Nachman Umanand Rosh Hashanah Shofars howl and the streets are lined withbarbers shaving the heads of pilgrims in the traditional way The posters on the walls announce the scheduled flights to and fromUman and the crowd is predominantly male
Sometimes there is violence Many locals are not happy with the pilgrims and the fact that many Hasidim have bought propertiesaround Pushkin Street introducing their very specific lifestyle Thereare complaints about the noise and the rubbish and the level ofsecurity 1048626983088983089983088 is remembered for several sometimes bloody fightsbetween locals and pilgrims Overall though visiting Uman for RoshHashanah can turn into the experience of a lifetime even for people with only a faint interest in Judaism The event is an immersion in abygone era right amid the post-Soviet reality of Ukraine
In 1048626983088983089983092 Rosh Hashanah begins at sunset on 1048626983092 September andends at nightfall of 1048626983094 September
Top After decades of
prosecution pilgrimage in Uman
is again safe and many children
mingle in the crowd
Bottom A Jewish boy tries his
brand new plastic gun bought
as a New Years present froma makeshift openair market in
Uman
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82
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150 984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143Stara Zagora50 Han Asparuh St Zagorka lakephone 042 985 555 042 985 555
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983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150983123983156983137983154983137 983130983137983143983151983154983137
Липи прави улици и дружелюбна
атмосфера в един от най-интересните градове на България
текст Димитър Ивановфотография Антони Георгиев
by Dimitar Ivanovphotography by Anthony Georgieff
Lindens straight streets and
fiendly atmosphere in one o themost interesting cities o Bulgaria
984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143984097984130984112984128984112 984087984112984115984126984128984112
Когато се чудите накъде да тръгнете в първите топлидни на есента Стара Загора е едно от най-добрите ре-шения Отдалечен на 10486263983088 км по магистрала Тракияградът е изключително близо за онези които живеят вСофия и предлага много повече спокойствие и зелени-на от столицата дружелюбна атмосфера приятни заве-дения и исторически и природни забележителностикоито да запълнят кратката ви ваканция
Стара Загора е един от най-старите градове в ЕвропаПървите хора се заселили тук около VII-VI хилядоле-тие пр Хр Около IV впрХр на мястото на съвремен-на Стара Загора се появява град на траките известен с
When you are wondering where to go for the first warm days of the autumn Stara Zagora is one of the bestsolutions About 10486263983088 km on the Trakiya Motorway thecity is close enough for those living in Sofia and offersmore serenity and greenery than the capital The city hasalso nice cafeacutes and restaurants and enough historical andnature sites to fill a short holiday
Stara Zagora is one of the oldest cities in EuropeThe fist people settled in the area around the 983095-983094thmillennia BC Around the 983092th Century BC on the placeof modern Stara Zagora appeared a settlement of theThracians which was called Beroe It was conquered by
phone 042 985 555 042 985 555reservationshotelstarazagoraeu
wwwhotelstarazagoraeu
The fi ve-star Park Hotel Stara Zagora is situated on the bank of the romantic Zagorka Lake in Stara Zagora
Hotel with 31 luxurious rooms two luxurious apartments and one VIP apartment
State-of-the-art SPA centre with swimming pool jacuzzi fitness hall steam bath sauna
Turkish bath and massage room
Six conference rooms with capacity between seven and 250 people equipped with multimedia
and other presentational technique and tools Orfeida Restaurant with amazing interior and a capacity for up to 150 people plus a summer and a winter garden
Park for biking fishing boating jogging and other sports and activities
All dreams lead toPark Hotel Stara Zagora
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
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where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
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1110
Bulgaria Without Censorships Nikolay Barekov went to see a clairvoyantand asked Tell me madam will I become prime minister
The old woman looked at him from head to toe touched his foreheadlooked at his tongue and his eyeballs took his pulse and said You willson you will You will also become Napoleon Julius Caesar Alexander theGreat
A businessman went to apply for a government contract under the PublicContract Acts The clerk looked at his application and asked Does yourcompany have 983089983088 years of experience
Yes the businessman answeredThe clerk put down a note and asked againYour company has already won 983089983093 government contracts which it has
completed successfully rightYes the businessman answered
The clerk paused wiped his forehead and inquired Does your companyhave foreign consultants
Yes the businessman repliedThe clerk sighed shook his head and looked at the businessman over his
glassesIm sorry but we cannot even admit you to take part in the competitionBut why the businessman asked in amazement What condition do we
not fulfilThe clerk put his finger down on the application Well you fail the most
important conditionAnd what is it the businessman inquiredThe name of the manager of your company is not Gadyo Vutov Gadev
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15
galleryloranyahoocom
wwwgallerylorancom
L O R A N G A L L E R Y
Petar Kolev Spring at Vratsa 1971oil canvas 10082 cm
Nevena Gancheva September the 1960soil canvas 100695 cm
Vladimir Dimitrov ndash MaystoraPortrait of Georgi Dimitrov oil canvas 97835 cm
Vasil Evtimov Down With Race Segregation 1944oil canvas 4857 cm
Kiril Mayski Brigadiers the 1950swatercolour paper 72895 cm
Sofia 16 Oborishte St(entrance from Vasil Aprilov Street)
Monday-Saturday from 11 am to 7 pm
Sunday from 11 am to 6 pmphone 02 483 0877
The diverse collection includes many
genres and styles and is representative
for the period The earliest exhibits are
the All for the Frontline All for the Victory
sketch by Vladimir Dimitrov ndash Maystora
and Down With Race Segregation by VasilEvtimov Specific attention deserves
the oil portrait of dictator Georgi
Dimitrov painted by Maystora in his
trademark style The exhibition includes
compositions dedicated to the
Brigadier Movement the
collectivisation of the agrarian lands
and the 1923 September Uprising An
accent not only because of its size is apainting by Ioan Leviev denouncing the
Pinochet regime in Chilli
The main message of the exhibition
is that the art of the period deserved
not only to be remembered but also to
be surveyed and cherished The Loran
Art Gallery is aware of the controversy
of the exhibition but it stands by itbelieving that history whatever it was
should be known and remembered
Socialist orTotalitarian Art
9 September ndash 9 October
2014
L O R A N G A L L E R Y
The current exhibition of Loran Art
Gallery is provoked by art in Socialist
Bulgaria created between 9 September
1944 and 10 November 1989 Bulgarians
still struggle with their understandingsof the period trapped between sweet
nostalgia and memories for violation
of basic human r ights The notion towards
Socialist art is equally ambiguous
In such an atmosphere it is hardly a
surprise that only two months after
Loran Art Gallery nurtured the concept
for the exhibition the gallery gatheredmore pieces of Socialist art than it could
accommodate on its premises So the
online exhibition in the gallerys website
is much richer than the actual one
The Socialist or Totalitarian Art exhibition
doesnt aim to vindicate the art of the
period or to celebrate the 70th anniversary
of the Communist coup The gallery wantsto demonstrate that the useless propaganda
art of the past today holds a significant
artistic and market value
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16 17
Analyst Lyuboslava Ruseva dissectsBulgarias politics as BoykosGERB prepare to return to power
interview and photography by Anthony Georgieff
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24 25
by Stamen Manolov
High Beam is a series of articles initiated by Vagabond Magazine with the generous support
of the America for Bulgaria Foundation that aims to provide details and background of places
cultural entities events personalities and facts of life that are sometimes difficult to understandfor the outsider in the Balkans The ultimate aim is the preservation of Bulgarias cultural heritage ndash
including but not limited to archaeological cultural and ethnic diversity
Email your answers toeditorialvagabondbg
and you can win a copy o
Wall-to-WallPoetry of Europe Vagabonds guide
to the poetry walls o Soia
This is possibly the biggest Communist-era monstrosity in
Bulgaria outshining even the Flying Saucer congress hall-cum-temple at Buzludzha It was erected in 983089983097983096983089 as part of amegalomaniacal project masterminded by Todor Zhivkovsdaughter to mark the 9830893983088983088th anniversary of the foundation ofthe Bulgaria state an euphemism for pumping up nationalismNow at least 3983088983088983088983088 tons of concrete stand exposed to theelements above a large Bulgarian city but unlike Buzludzhathis monument has not been abandoned The local city councileven charges entry fees to let you go into it A particular
favourite to Japanese and Israeli tourists (but for completelydifferent reasons)Where in Bulgaria are you
copy A n t h o n y G e o r g i e ff
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26 27
by Bozhidara Georgieva photography by Anthony Georgieff
Former monastery prisonbecomes tourist attraction
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30 31
This publicity did not have any impact on the island itself In the983089983097983094983088s Bolshevik Island became a place of recreation for the artisticcircles of Burgas but the buildings fell into disrepair and soon theonly thing still intact on the island was the lighthouse The currentlighthouse which was supplied with electricity as late as the 983089983097983094983088sdates back to 983089983096983096983097 with a major facelift in 983089983097983089983092
After the democratic changes of 983089983097983096983097 Bolshevik Island became StAnastasia Island once more The regular boat services however were
discontinued and decay overtook the former monastic and prisonbuildings St Anastasia became a ghostly place which a handful of visitors per year could reach only if they hired a fisherman to bringthem to the island A basic tavern provided even more basic foodand the more adventurous slept in the dilapidated rooms of themonastery
The desolation and decay of St Anastasia are captured withdocumentary precision in Kamen Kalevs 1048626983088983089983089 feature movie he
Island
In 1048626983088983089983092 however the Burgas City Council completed a majorreconstruction project on the island The monastery buildingshave been restored and renovated there is better accommodationfor visitors who decide to spend the night on the island and therestaurant has been improved and the tourist infrastructure includesa small museum and a medieval pharmacy where local herbs aregrown
Reaching the island is easier with regular boats leaving several timesa day from the renovated Burgas Pier The crossing takes under an
hour and makes for a lovely day trip out of Burgas The St AnastasiaIslands turbulent history seems to have been provided with a happyending
1 The lighthouse of St Anastasia
Island was built in the 1880s by a
French company but the tower is
from 1912 In the waters nearby
stands one of the geological
curiosities of the island The
Mushroom rock
2 The regular tourist boats to StAnastasia start from the renovated
pier of Burgas
3 Founded in the 16th Century
the monastery and its church
suffered heavily from pirate
raids and were renovated at the
beginning of the 19th Century In
1923 the monastery was turned
into a prison
4 Rusting remains from periods
of desolation Today St Anastasiais a welcoming place with a nice
restaurant and a multimedia
museum
1 3
4
2
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Magical Rhodope site tells storieso Dionysus Alexander the Great
and Augustus
by Bozhidara Georgieva photography by Anthony Georgieff
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Covering more than 983093 square kilometres Perperikon is the biggestmegalithic site in the Balkans
The first people arrived here 983096983088983088983088 years ago and carved the rocksso they could fill the crevices with fragments of pots as offerings tothe unknown deities or spirits they believed in Then these people
disappeared from Perperikon After a hiatus of about 983089983088983088983088 years atthe end of the 983093th and the beginning of the 983092th millennia BC thehill again became the focal point of religious activity In the 983089983096th-9830891048626thcenturies BC the sanctuary was already so extensive and famous thatartefacts belonging to the Minoan and Mycenaean civilisations arenow found there
Perperikon experienced a decline in the 983092th-983089st centuries BCbut when the Romans took over Thrace activity resumed and newbuildings adorned the hill In the 983094th Century however Christianity
took over and the sanctuary was abandoned Unlike other pagansacred places in the Balkans Perperikon did not fall completelysilent
Christians moved into the empty shrines built churches over themand turned Perperikon into the stronghold of local bishops It allcame to an end in 98308939830941048626 when the Ottomans invaded and people leftPerperikon for good leaving the hill to nature which soon swallowedup the remains of the churches and the Thracian shrines
The site was rediscovered by archaeologists in the 1048626983088th Century
but Perperikon only became a household name in the early 1048626983088983088983088s when excavations started again and the theory that it had belonged tothe Oracle of Dionysus was promoted as a proven fact
Previous spread Remains of cult
pits and graves in the bedrock
Perperikon was built on solid rock
so the bases of each building and
even the graves were hewn in
the stone
Deciphering the traces in the
bedrock is not easy Some believe
that the pits covering the surface
of Perperikon were only for ritual
purposes Actually most weremade to support columns of
buildings or to store food and
liquids
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Major river breaks outin Stara Planina heading
towards Black Seaby Minka Vazkresenska photography by Anthony Georgieff
How to define the source of a river is often a tough question toanswer Is it where water springs from the ground for the first timeor is it the place where two or more streams merge into a larger flowEven the source of the Danube Europes largest river is contentiousat least three springs claim to be the beginnings of the mighty river
The Kamchiya River is no exception Theoretically it is only983092983094 kilometres long and flows through northeastern Bulgaria before joining the Black Sea at a particularly beautiful and terrifyinglymosquito-infested forest With its major tributary the Golyama orGrand Kamchiya the river is 1048626983092983092 kilometres long making it the983096th longest river in Bulgaria The official source of the GolyamaKamchiya ndash and of the Kamchiya ndash is in the Lisa Planina at analtitude of about 983095983089983088 metres above sea level
But there is a spot high up in the Stara Planina on the border ofits central and eastern parts which has gained popularity as the truesource of the Kamchiya It is where the second major tributaryof the river confusingly called the Luda or Crazy Kamchiya springsup as a tiny stream runs eastwards for 1048626983088983088 kilometres and joins theGolyama Kamchiya The Luda Kamchiya is the 983089983088th longest river inBulgaria
The popularity of the Luda Kamchiyas spring as the genuinebeginning of the Kamchiya River (are you already confused)
is probably due to its location It is in a pleasant and historicallysignificant spot the Vratnik Pass connecting Veliko Tarnovo andElena to the north with Sliven south of the Stara Planina
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Situated at an altitude of 983089983088983097983095 metres above sea level and being 983089983088kilometres long the Vratnik Pass used to be a main route through themountain The Romans built a road along it and in the Middle Agesa strong fort guarded it a frequent site of battles between Bulgariansand Byzantines The importance of the pass was mirrored in its nameZhelezni Vrata and Demir Kapiya mean Iron Gates in Bulgarian andTurkish resepctively The modern-day name of the pass Vratnik wasadopted in 9830899830979830921048626 and just means Gate
Today the pass is almost deserted as most drivers prefer to avoid thenarrow potholed road which zigzags through a thick forest Even insummer when you stop at the highest part of the pass to look for theKamchiyas source you will most probably find the place empty
Actually empty means empty of tourists The forest around thespring is the temporary home of of some Gypsies families dealing with lumberjacking and mushroom-pickingTheir ragged tents madeof old blankets and sheets of nylon are all over the place as are theheaps of household garbage
The scenery becomes almost surreal when mist descends drenchingthe forest in white and leaving only the dark trunks of the closesttrees visible
The Luda Kamchiyas spring is east of the road in a depressionhidden by tall trees Spectacular it is not as it is fed into a waterfountain The water fountain inscription however is grandiose Tothose fallen for freedom Glorify their sacred feat you unendinglyflowing Kamchiya
There is some justification for this Only 1048626 kilometres east of thespring is Aglikina Polyana or Aglikas Meadow where the Bulgarianhayduti or 983089983097th Century rebels used to meet They lived in themountains as far away from the Ottoman authorities as possibleexcept for when they attacked and robbed Ottoman convoys at the pass
Aglikina Polyana is heavily represented in Bulgarian heroic folklorehas a protected area status and hosts a regular folklore meeting
You can visit Aglikina Polyana from here but in any case be sure to
kneel at the water fountain which is the source of the Luda Kamchiyaand take a drink It is not that often that you can drink the cool clear waters of a river at its source
Top Semi-wild horses roam freely
around the Vratnik Pass
Bottom The beginnings of a 200-
kilometre Luda Kamchiya river
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Remote village pro983158idesunspoilt old-time atmosphere great ood by Violeta Rozova photography by Anthony Georgieff
Rural tourism in Bulgaria was barely known 1048626983088 years ago butin the early 1048626983088983088983088s it experienced an EU-funded boom But in thelate 1048626983088983088983088s the still ongoing economic crisis hit and now manyguesthouses are struggling to survive with the decreased numberof visitors In the western fringes of the Rhodope however is atraditional village which is still one of the best places for ruraltourism in Bulgaria
Leshten close to Gotse Delchev actually invented rural tourismin Bulgaria Since the mid-983089983097983097983088s it has been the first choice for anescape from the big city for all those interested in clean air delicioushealthy food and genuinely and intelligently preserved architecture
Truth to tell Leshten is hardly a village nowadays Only 983089983088 peoplelive there and most of them are septuagenarian In the 983089983097th and thefirst half of the 1048626983088th centuries however Leshten was a bustling placehome to more than 983093983088983088 people Unlike the inhabitants of nearbyKovachevitsa who built three- and four-storey mini fortresses to
protect their riches the people of Leshten were poor They had lessto lose and so they built houses of only two floors The ground level was for the livestock and the one above for the families
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Top A statue of two icecream
cones
Bottom The Buzludzha complex is
famous for its ghastly atmosphere
32
4
Kovachevitsa and Leshten both began to lose inhabitants at a greatrate after the Communist coup of 983089983097983092983092 when industrialisation andforced collectivisation striped the villagers of their livelihood andforced them to seek jobs in cities Kovachevitsa as a much grander village attracted the attention of Bulgarian film-makers in the 983089983097983095983088sand experienced a wave of new settlers mostly Sofia intellectuals who bought holiday homes there
Leshten was rediscovered much laterIn the mid-983089983097983097983088s a couple from Sofia found themselves in the
village with its ghostly and abandoned old houses They fell in love with Leshten as it had an unexpected advantage over crowd-pulling
Kovachevitsa Kovachevitsa is deep in the mountains and does nothave much of a vistaLeshten however has a marvellous view over the valley of the
Mesta River with the blue slopes of the Pirin defining the horizon983121uite unusually for the mid-983089983097983097983088s when everyone was either
leaving Bulgaria or flocking to Sofia where job prospects were betterthe couple moved to Leshten They bought some of the houses andturned them into holiday lets while preserving as much as possiblethe traditional architecture and opened one of the best restaurants
in Bulgaria This was in the long-disused local school next to thebeautiful and tiny St Paraskeva Church which dates from 9830899830963983094 and iscovered inside with primitive but captivating murals
1
1 The key to your room Each
detail in the 200-year old Leshten
houses has been preserved
2 3 The St Paraskeva Church
was built in 1837 and has been
listed as a local monument of
culture
4 Having breakfast while enjoying
the view to the Mesta Valley and
the Pirin is one of Leshtens many
pleasures
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The food in the tavern was locally sourced long before this became
fashionable Almost everything on the menu comes from the areafrom the wild berry juice and the thick sheeprsquos yoghurt to thetraditional egg noodles and the meatballs which are prepared not ofmince but of finely chopped meat
The restored traditional houses are on a par with the foods qualityIntelligently preserved yet having mod cons they smell of ageing wood geraniums and of woollen rugs warmed by the sun The wallsare whitewashed white linen curtains with embroidery shade the windows and the slightly crooked beams of the floor squeak quietly
under your feetRecently however more people decided to profit on Leshten
More houses were turned into hotels and as the competition grewone night the old school caught fire and burned to the ground Thetavern was re-established in a newer building with a beautiful viewof the Mesta Valley The food is still gorgeous the best the Rhodopeand the people living in these beautiful mountains can give you
This series of articles is supported by theAmerica for Bulgaria Foundation The
statements and opinions expressed herein
are those of the authors and do not necessarily
reflect the opinion of the America for Bulgaria
Foundation and its partners
1 Stone was used extensively in
building the houses of Leshten
and even the roofs are f rom rock
The technique was popular in
Bulgaria until the beginning of
the 20th Century but was later
abandoned It has been enjoying
a revival in recent years as surge
of interest in eco tourism has
brought it back to fashion
2 Leshten is a good basefor exploring of the Western
Rhodope with traditional villages
like Kovachevitsa and Dolen and
pristine wild nature all around
3 Fresco from St Paraskeva
Church with a didactic scene
advertising the advantages of
pious life
3
1
2
52 53
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Case study of senior Communist offi cialElena Lagadinova reveals unexpectedaspects of superpower confrontation
by Kristen Ghodsee all photographs courtesy of the author
One of the great ironies of the Cold War is that the twosuperpowers often championed issues that they cared little aboutin practice The East bloc defended the social rights of the worldrsquos workers while treating their own citizens like indentured servantsThe United States campaigned for political freedoms abroad whilebrutally oppressing or marginalising their own African-Americanand Native American populations at home Any rhetoric thatcould be deployed against the enemy became a weapon in the widerideological battle
Today historians and social scientists are studying the internationallegacies of these Cold War rivalries over social and politicalrights Whether it is labor conventions at the International LaborOrganisation political self-determination for previously colonisedcountries or the end to state-sanctioned racial discrimination in theUnited States or in apartheid-era South Africa the general scholarlyconsensus is that ordinary people ndash whether in the capitalist
Communist or developing worlds ndash benefitted from superpowercompetition An unintended consequence of American and Sovietgrandstanding was often real social progress
1
2
2
4
54
6 7
1 Elena The Amazon
Lagadinova in 1945
2 With Valentina Tereshkova
3 Delivering a speech in 1970
4 With the US activist Angela
Davis in 1972
5 Hosting a school for African
women leaders in Sofia in 1982
6 Lagadinova (left) with an
young Irina Bokova (right) at
the Third UN Conference on
Women in Nairobi in 1985
7 In Razlog with Kristen
Ghodsee in 2013
3
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Tousands o Hassidim gatherin Ukrainian city to celebrate
Jewish New Year by Dimana Trankova photography by Anthony Georgieff
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Dusty and drab devoid of any charm unless you count the 983089983096thCentury Sofyivka Park and the Georgian cheese pastries at the busstation the Ukrainian city of Uman would be a strong contender forthe most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe
But it is not the most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe ndash atleast not for a couple of days each year when it gets filled with joyfulcrowds of Ultra religious Jews flown in from as far as Canada BritainIsrael and Australia to celebrate the Jewish New Year usually inSeptember They all converge at Pushkin Street take out their heavyluggage and drag it to their rented rooms in small houses and tallSocialist apartment blocks Music is booming the smell of cookedfood comes from the tents of the openair eateries Happy people inthe streets greet each other smiling from ear to ear when they meetand embrace some old friend
Uman a city of roughly 983097983088983088983088983088 residents in western Ukraine is thefocus of pilgrimage for Hasidic Jews who come here to celebrate atthe tomb of one of their greatest spiritual leaders
Rebbe Nachman (9830899830959830951048626-983089983096983089983088) of Breslov was the great-grandson ofBaal Shem Tov the founder of Hasidism a conservative movementthat spread among the Ashkenazi Jews in Eastern Europe He showedthe first signs of having a special connection with the divine as earlyas 983089983095 and spent the next decades of his life moving around the areaof what is now western Ukraine and eastern Poland attractingfollowers Rebbe Nachmans travels even brought him to Palestine where he met and talked with prominent Jewish sages and scholars
In 9830899830969830881048626 he settled in Bratslav (as Breslov is more commonlyknown) and announced the creation of a new movement ofHasidism the Breslov Hasidism
When pilgrimage to Rebbe
Nachmans grave resumed in
the early 1990s the locals ofUman were amazed by the Rosh
Hashanah antics of visiting Jews
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Rebbe Nachman was incredibly popular but not everyone
liked him because of some of his more radical ideas one of whichencouraged people to feel free to find spiritual leaders for themselvesand to break with the tradition of the hereditary Hasidic dynastiesRebbe Nachman also encouraged the individual search for the divineHis teachings spread during tumultuous times The beginning of the983089983097th Century saw the spread of democratic ideas across Europe andfor the first time in centuries Jews enjoyed ndash at least theoretically ndashequal rights Many chose fuller integration into the modernEuropean society but for more conservative Jews these changesthreatened the foundation of their communities The teachingsof Rebbe Nachman were a sort of reaction to this trend blendingtradition with more individual freedom
Whether Rebbe Nachman thought of himself as a Messiah is stilla matter of dispute Some phrases from his teachings would makegreat Facebook quotes in todays era of soul-searching and positivethinking such as If you believe that you can damage then believethat you can fixrdquo or You are never given an obstacle you cannotovercome
In Breslov Rebbe Nachman saw his movement flourish andgrow with great crowds of followers assembling for feasts like RoshHashanah Chanukah or Shavuot when they eagerly listened to histeachings In 983089983096983089983088 however he had to move
Consumption had been devouring the still young Rebbe Nachmanfor some time and then his house was destroyed by fire He movedto nearby Uman a town of great significance for the local Jewishcommunity In 983089983095983094983096 about 1048626983088983088983088983088 Jews from Uman along withmany Poles and Uniate Ukrainians were killed by the UkrainianHaidamak rebels who had risen against the then Polish-LithuanianCommonwealth
1 Selling Rebbe Nachman-
themed techno music on Pushkin
Street
2 For many Breslov Hasidim the
pilgrimage is also an opportunity
to meet old friends and make
new ones
3 Rebbe Nachman is the
descendant of Baal Shem Tov the
founder of Hasidism a branch
of Orthodox Judaism wheremysticism is at the foundation of
spirituality
3
1
2
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Over the following two decades the Rosh Hashanah gatheringin Uman became ever stronger On average about 983089983088983088983088983088-983089983093983088983088983088Hasidim come to celebrate each year The atmosphere is festive in thestreets and tense around the grave of Rebbe Nachman and peopleare generally friendly even when they notice the odd tourist in thecrowd Many of the pilgrims get tipsy and dance to rave and rock
music booming from stalls gardens and balconies Children runto and fro carrying presents bought from the ramshackle openairmarket
There are signs however that these people are not the average partygoers The song lyrics are devoted to Rebbe Nachman Umanand Rosh Hashanah Shofars howl and the streets are lined withbarbers shaving the heads of pilgrims in the traditional way The posters on the walls announce the scheduled flights to and fromUman and the crowd is predominantly male
Sometimes there is violence Many locals are not happy with the pilgrims and the fact that many Hasidim have bought propertiesaround Pushkin Street introducing their very specific lifestyle Thereare complaints about the noise and the rubbish and the level ofsecurity 1048626983088983089983088 is remembered for several sometimes bloody fightsbetween locals and pilgrims Overall though visiting Uman for RoshHashanah can turn into the experience of a lifetime even for people with only a faint interest in Judaism The event is an immersion in abygone era right amid the post-Soviet reality of Ukraine
In 1048626983088983089983092 Rosh Hashanah begins at sunset on 1048626983092 September andends at nightfall of 1048626983094 September
Top After decades of
prosecution pilgrimage in Uman
is again safe and many children
mingle in the crowd
Bottom A Jewish boy tries his
brand new plastic gun bought
as a New Years present froma makeshift openair market in
Uman
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82
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150 984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143Stara Zagora50 Han Asparuh St Zagorka lakephone 042 985 555 042 985 555
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983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150983123983156983137983154983137 983130983137983143983151983154983137
Липи прави улици и дружелюбна
атмосфера в един от най-интересните градове на България
текст Димитър Ивановфотография Антони Георгиев
by Dimitar Ivanovphotography by Anthony Georgieff
Lindens straight streets and
fiendly atmosphere in one o themost interesting cities o Bulgaria
984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143984097984130984112984128984112 984087984112984115984126984128984112
Когато се чудите накъде да тръгнете в първите топлидни на есента Стара Загора е едно от най-добрите ре-шения Отдалечен на 10486263983088 км по магистрала Тракияградът е изключително близо за онези които живеят вСофия и предлага много повече спокойствие и зелени-на от столицата дружелюбна атмосфера приятни заве-дения и исторически и природни забележителностикоито да запълнят кратката ви ваканция
Стара Загора е един от най-старите градове в ЕвропаПървите хора се заселили тук около VII-VI хилядоле-тие пр Хр Около IV впрХр на мястото на съвремен-на Стара Загора се появява град на траките известен с
When you are wondering where to go for the first warm days of the autumn Stara Zagora is one of the bestsolutions About 10486263983088 km on the Trakiya Motorway thecity is close enough for those living in Sofia and offersmore serenity and greenery than the capital The city hasalso nice cafeacutes and restaurants and enough historical andnature sites to fill a short holiday
Stara Zagora is one of the oldest cities in EuropeThe fist people settled in the area around the 983095-983094thmillennia BC Around the 983092th Century BC on the placeof modern Stara Zagora appeared a settlement of theThracians which was called Beroe It was conquered by
phone 042 985 555 042 985 555reservationshotelstarazagoraeu
wwwhotelstarazagoraeu
The fi ve-star Park Hotel Stara Zagora is situated on the bank of the romantic Zagorka Lake in Stara Zagora
Hotel with 31 luxurious rooms two luxurious apartments and one VIP apartment
State-of-the-art SPA centre with swimming pool jacuzzi fitness hall steam bath sauna
Turkish bath and massage room
Six conference rooms with capacity between seven and 250 people equipped with multimedia
and other presentational technique and tools Orfeida Restaurant with amazing interior and a capacity for up to 150 people plus a summer and a winter garden
Park for biking fishing boating jogging and other sports and activities
All dreams lead toPark Hotel Stara Zagora
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
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where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
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15
galleryloranyahoocom
wwwgallerylorancom
L O R A N G A L L E R Y
Petar Kolev Spring at Vratsa 1971oil canvas 10082 cm
Nevena Gancheva September the 1960soil canvas 100695 cm
Vladimir Dimitrov ndash MaystoraPortrait of Georgi Dimitrov oil canvas 97835 cm
Vasil Evtimov Down With Race Segregation 1944oil canvas 4857 cm
Kiril Mayski Brigadiers the 1950swatercolour paper 72895 cm
Sofia 16 Oborishte St(entrance from Vasil Aprilov Street)
Monday-Saturday from 11 am to 7 pm
Sunday from 11 am to 6 pmphone 02 483 0877
The diverse collection includes many
genres and styles and is representative
for the period The earliest exhibits are
the All for the Frontline All for the Victory
sketch by Vladimir Dimitrov ndash Maystora
and Down With Race Segregation by VasilEvtimov Specific attention deserves
the oil portrait of dictator Georgi
Dimitrov painted by Maystora in his
trademark style The exhibition includes
compositions dedicated to the
Brigadier Movement the
collectivisation of the agrarian lands
and the 1923 September Uprising An
accent not only because of its size is apainting by Ioan Leviev denouncing the
Pinochet regime in Chilli
The main message of the exhibition
is that the art of the period deserved
not only to be remembered but also to
be surveyed and cherished The Loran
Art Gallery is aware of the controversy
of the exhibition but it stands by itbelieving that history whatever it was
should be known and remembered
Socialist orTotalitarian Art
9 September ndash 9 October
2014
L O R A N G A L L E R Y
The current exhibition of Loran Art
Gallery is provoked by art in Socialist
Bulgaria created between 9 September
1944 and 10 November 1989 Bulgarians
still struggle with their understandingsof the period trapped between sweet
nostalgia and memories for violation
of basic human r ights The notion towards
Socialist art is equally ambiguous
In such an atmosphere it is hardly a
surprise that only two months after
Loran Art Gallery nurtured the concept
for the exhibition the gallery gatheredmore pieces of Socialist art than it could
accommodate on its premises So the
online exhibition in the gallerys website
is much richer than the actual one
The Socialist or Totalitarian Art exhibition
doesnt aim to vindicate the art of the
period or to celebrate the 70th anniversary
of the Communist coup The gallery wantsto demonstrate that the useless propaganda
art of the past today holds a significant
artistic and market value
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Analyst Lyuboslava Ruseva dissectsBulgarias politics as BoykosGERB prepare to return to power
interview and photography by Anthony Georgieff
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by Stamen Manolov
High Beam is a series of articles initiated by Vagabond Magazine with the generous support
of the America for Bulgaria Foundation that aims to provide details and background of places
cultural entities events personalities and facts of life that are sometimes difficult to understandfor the outsider in the Balkans The ultimate aim is the preservation of Bulgarias cultural heritage ndash
including but not limited to archaeological cultural and ethnic diversity
Email your answers toeditorialvagabondbg
and you can win a copy o
Wall-to-WallPoetry of Europe Vagabonds guide
to the poetry walls o Soia
This is possibly the biggest Communist-era monstrosity in
Bulgaria outshining even the Flying Saucer congress hall-cum-temple at Buzludzha It was erected in 983089983097983096983089 as part of amegalomaniacal project masterminded by Todor Zhivkovsdaughter to mark the 9830893983088983088th anniversary of the foundation ofthe Bulgaria state an euphemism for pumping up nationalismNow at least 3983088983088983088983088 tons of concrete stand exposed to theelements above a large Bulgarian city but unlike Buzludzhathis monument has not been abandoned The local city councileven charges entry fees to let you go into it A particular
favourite to Japanese and Israeli tourists (but for completelydifferent reasons)Where in Bulgaria are you
copy A n t h o n y G e o r g i e ff
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by Bozhidara Georgieva photography by Anthony Georgieff
Former monastery prisonbecomes tourist attraction
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This publicity did not have any impact on the island itself In the983089983097983094983088s Bolshevik Island became a place of recreation for the artisticcircles of Burgas but the buildings fell into disrepair and soon theonly thing still intact on the island was the lighthouse The currentlighthouse which was supplied with electricity as late as the 983089983097983094983088sdates back to 983089983096983096983097 with a major facelift in 983089983097983089983092
After the democratic changes of 983089983097983096983097 Bolshevik Island became StAnastasia Island once more The regular boat services however were
discontinued and decay overtook the former monastic and prisonbuildings St Anastasia became a ghostly place which a handful of visitors per year could reach only if they hired a fisherman to bringthem to the island A basic tavern provided even more basic foodand the more adventurous slept in the dilapidated rooms of themonastery
The desolation and decay of St Anastasia are captured withdocumentary precision in Kamen Kalevs 1048626983088983089983089 feature movie he
Island
In 1048626983088983089983092 however the Burgas City Council completed a majorreconstruction project on the island The monastery buildingshave been restored and renovated there is better accommodationfor visitors who decide to spend the night on the island and therestaurant has been improved and the tourist infrastructure includesa small museum and a medieval pharmacy where local herbs aregrown
Reaching the island is easier with regular boats leaving several timesa day from the renovated Burgas Pier The crossing takes under an
hour and makes for a lovely day trip out of Burgas The St AnastasiaIslands turbulent history seems to have been provided with a happyending
1 The lighthouse of St Anastasia
Island was built in the 1880s by a
French company but the tower is
from 1912 In the waters nearby
stands one of the geological
curiosities of the island The
Mushroom rock
2 The regular tourist boats to StAnastasia start from the renovated
pier of Burgas
3 Founded in the 16th Century
the monastery and its church
suffered heavily from pirate
raids and were renovated at the
beginning of the 19th Century In
1923 the monastery was turned
into a prison
4 Rusting remains from periods
of desolation Today St Anastasiais a welcoming place with a nice
restaurant and a multimedia
museum
1 3
4
2
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Magical Rhodope site tells storieso Dionysus Alexander the Great
and Augustus
by Bozhidara Georgieva photography by Anthony Georgieff
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Covering more than 983093 square kilometres Perperikon is the biggestmegalithic site in the Balkans
The first people arrived here 983096983088983088983088 years ago and carved the rocksso they could fill the crevices with fragments of pots as offerings tothe unknown deities or spirits they believed in Then these people
disappeared from Perperikon After a hiatus of about 983089983088983088983088 years atthe end of the 983093th and the beginning of the 983092th millennia BC thehill again became the focal point of religious activity In the 983089983096th-9830891048626thcenturies BC the sanctuary was already so extensive and famous thatartefacts belonging to the Minoan and Mycenaean civilisations arenow found there
Perperikon experienced a decline in the 983092th-983089st centuries BCbut when the Romans took over Thrace activity resumed and newbuildings adorned the hill In the 983094th Century however Christianity
took over and the sanctuary was abandoned Unlike other pagansacred places in the Balkans Perperikon did not fall completelysilent
Christians moved into the empty shrines built churches over themand turned Perperikon into the stronghold of local bishops It allcame to an end in 98308939830941048626 when the Ottomans invaded and people leftPerperikon for good leaving the hill to nature which soon swallowedup the remains of the churches and the Thracian shrines
The site was rediscovered by archaeologists in the 1048626983088th Century
but Perperikon only became a household name in the early 1048626983088983088983088s when excavations started again and the theory that it had belonged tothe Oracle of Dionysus was promoted as a proven fact
Previous spread Remains of cult
pits and graves in the bedrock
Perperikon was built on solid rock
so the bases of each building and
even the graves were hewn in
the stone
Deciphering the traces in the
bedrock is not easy Some believe
that the pits covering the surface
of Perperikon were only for ritual
purposes Actually most weremade to support columns of
buildings or to store food and
liquids
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Major river breaks outin Stara Planina heading
towards Black Seaby Minka Vazkresenska photography by Anthony Georgieff
How to define the source of a river is often a tough question toanswer Is it where water springs from the ground for the first timeor is it the place where two or more streams merge into a larger flowEven the source of the Danube Europes largest river is contentiousat least three springs claim to be the beginnings of the mighty river
The Kamchiya River is no exception Theoretically it is only983092983094 kilometres long and flows through northeastern Bulgaria before joining the Black Sea at a particularly beautiful and terrifyinglymosquito-infested forest With its major tributary the Golyama orGrand Kamchiya the river is 1048626983092983092 kilometres long making it the983096th longest river in Bulgaria The official source of the GolyamaKamchiya ndash and of the Kamchiya ndash is in the Lisa Planina at analtitude of about 983095983089983088 metres above sea level
But there is a spot high up in the Stara Planina on the border ofits central and eastern parts which has gained popularity as the truesource of the Kamchiya It is where the second major tributaryof the river confusingly called the Luda or Crazy Kamchiya springsup as a tiny stream runs eastwards for 1048626983088983088 kilometres and joins theGolyama Kamchiya The Luda Kamchiya is the 983089983088th longest river inBulgaria
The popularity of the Luda Kamchiyas spring as the genuinebeginning of the Kamchiya River (are you already confused)
is probably due to its location It is in a pleasant and historicallysignificant spot the Vratnik Pass connecting Veliko Tarnovo andElena to the north with Sliven south of the Stara Planina
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Situated at an altitude of 983089983088983097983095 metres above sea level and being 983089983088kilometres long the Vratnik Pass used to be a main route through themountain The Romans built a road along it and in the Middle Agesa strong fort guarded it a frequent site of battles between Bulgariansand Byzantines The importance of the pass was mirrored in its nameZhelezni Vrata and Demir Kapiya mean Iron Gates in Bulgarian andTurkish resepctively The modern-day name of the pass Vratnik wasadopted in 9830899830979830921048626 and just means Gate
Today the pass is almost deserted as most drivers prefer to avoid thenarrow potholed road which zigzags through a thick forest Even insummer when you stop at the highest part of the pass to look for theKamchiyas source you will most probably find the place empty
Actually empty means empty of tourists The forest around thespring is the temporary home of of some Gypsies families dealing with lumberjacking and mushroom-pickingTheir ragged tents madeof old blankets and sheets of nylon are all over the place as are theheaps of household garbage
The scenery becomes almost surreal when mist descends drenchingthe forest in white and leaving only the dark trunks of the closesttrees visible
The Luda Kamchiyas spring is east of the road in a depressionhidden by tall trees Spectacular it is not as it is fed into a waterfountain The water fountain inscription however is grandiose Tothose fallen for freedom Glorify their sacred feat you unendinglyflowing Kamchiya
There is some justification for this Only 1048626 kilometres east of thespring is Aglikina Polyana or Aglikas Meadow where the Bulgarianhayduti or 983089983097th Century rebels used to meet They lived in themountains as far away from the Ottoman authorities as possibleexcept for when they attacked and robbed Ottoman convoys at the pass
Aglikina Polyana is heavily represented in Bulgarian heroic folklorehas a protected area status and hosts a regular folklore meeting
You can visit Aglikina Polyana from here but in any case be sure to
kneel at the water fountain which is the source of the Luda Kamchiyaand take a drink It is not that often that you can drink the cool clear waters of a river at its source
Top Semi-wild horses roam freely
around the Vratnik Pass
Bottom The beginnings of a 200-
kilometre Luda Kamchiya river
46 47
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Remote village pro983158idesunspoilt old-time atmosphere great ood by Violeta Rozova photography by Anthony Georgieff
Rural tourism in Bulgaria was barely known 1048626983088 years ago butin the early 1048626983088983088983088s it experienced an EU-funded boom But in thelate 1048626983088983088983088s the still ongoing economic crisis hit and now manyguesthouses are struggling to survive with the decreased numberof visitors In the western fringes of the Rhodope however is atraditional village which is still one of the best places for ruraltourism in Bulgaria
Leshten close to Gotse Delchev actually invented rural tourismin Bulgaria Since the mid-983089983097983097983088s it has been the first choice for anescape from the big city for all those interested in clean air delicioushealthy food and genuinely and intelligently preserved architecture
Truth to tell Leshten is hardly a village nowadays Only 983089983088 peoplelive there and most of them are septuagenarian In the 983089983097th and thefirst half of the 1048626983088th centuries however Leshten was a bustling placehome to more than 983093983088983088 people Unlike the inhabitants of nearbyKovachevitsa who built three- and four-storey mini fortresses to
protect their riches the people of Leshten were poor They had lessto lose and so they built houses of only two floors The ground level was for the livestock and the one above for the families
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Top A statue of two icecream
cones
Bottom The Buzludzha complex is
famous for its ghastly atmosphere
32
4
Kovachevitsa and Leshten both began to lose inhabitants at a greatrate after the Communist coup of 983089983097983092983092 when industrialisation andforced collectivisation striped the villagers of their livelihood andforced them to seek jobs in cities Kovachevitsa as a much grander village attracted the attention of Bulgarian film-makers in the 983089983097983095983088sand experienced a wave of new settlers mostly Sofia intellectuals who bought holiday homes there
Leshten was rediscovered much laterIn the mid-983089983097983097983088s a couple from Sofia found themselves in the
village with its ghostly and abandoned old houses They fell in love with Leshten as it had an unexpected advantage over crowd-pulling
Kovachevitsa Kovachevitsa is deep in the mountains and does nothave much of a vistaLeshten however has a marvellous view over the valley of the
Mesta River with the blue slopes of the Pirin defining the horizon983121uite unusually for the mid-983089983097983097983088s when everyone was either
leaving Bulgaria or flocking to Sofia where job prospects were betterthe couple moved to Leshten They bought some of the houses andturned them into holiday lets while preserving as much as possiblethe traditional architecture and opened one of the best restaurants
in Bulgaria This was in the long-disused local school next to thebeautiful and tiny St Paraskeva Church which dates from 9830899830963983094 and iscovered inside with primitive but captivating murals
1
1 The key to your room Each
detail in the 200-year old Leshten
houses has been preserved
2 3 The St Paraskeva Church
was built in 1837 and has been
listed as a local monument of
culture
4 Having breakfast while enjoying
the view to the Mesta Valley and
the Pirin is one of Leshtens many
pleasures
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The food in the tavern was locally sourced long before this became
fashionable Almost everything on the menu comes from the areafrom the wild berry juice and the thick sheeprsquos yoghurt to thetraditional egg noodles and the meatballs which are prepared not ofmince but of finely chopped meat
The restored traditional houses are on a par with the foods qualityIntelligently preserved yet having mod cons they smell of ageing wood geraniums and of woollen rugs warmed by the sun The wallsare whitewashed white linen curtains with embroidery shade the windows and the slightly crooked beams of the floor squeak quietly
under your feetRecently however more people decided to profit on Leshten
More houses were turned into hotels and as the competition grewone night the old school caught fire and burned to the ground Thetavern was re-established in a newer building with a beautiful viewof the Mesta Valley The food is still gorgeous the best the Rhodopeand the people living in these beautiful mountains can give you
This series of articles is supported by theAmerica for Bulgaria Foundation The
statements and opinions expressed herein
are those of the authors and do not necessarily
reflect the opinion of the America for Bulgaria
Foundation and its partners
1 Stone was used extensively in
building the houses of Leshten
and even the roofs are f rom rock
The technique was popular in
Bulgaria until the beginning of
the 20th Century but was later
abandoned It has been enjoying
a revival in recent years as surge
of interest in eco tourism has
brought it back to fashion
2 Leshten is a good basefor exploring of the Western
Rhodope with traditional villages
like Kovachevitsa and Dolen and
pristine wild nature all around
3 Fresco from St Paraskeva
Church with a didactic scene
advertising the advantages of
pious life
3
1
2
52 53
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Case study of senior Communist offi cialElena Lagadinova reveals unexpectedaspects of superpower confrontation
by Kristen Ghodsee all photographs courtesy of the author
One of the great ironies of the Cold War is that the twosuperpowers often championed issues that they cared little aboutin practice The East bloc defended the social rights of the worldrsquos workers while treating their own citizens like indentured servantsThe United States campaigned for political freedoms abroad whilebrutally oppressing or marginalising their own African-Americanand Native American populations at home Any rhetoric thatcould be deployed against the enemy became a weapon in the widerideological battle
Today historians and social scientists are studying the internationallegacies of these Cold War rivalries over social and politicalrights Whether it is labor conventions at the International LaborOrganisation political self-determination for previously colonisedcountries or the end to state-sanctioned racial discrimination in theUnited States or in apartheid-era South Africa the general scholarlyconsensus is that ordinary people ndash whether in the capitalist
Communist or developing worlds ndash benefitted from superpowercompetition An unintended consequence of American and Sovietgrandstanding was often real social progress
1
2
2
4
54
6 7
1 Elena The Amazon
Lagadinova in 1945
2 With Valentina Tereshkova
3 Delivering a speech in 1970
4 With the US activist Angela
Davis in 1972
5 Hosting a school for African
women leaders in Sofia in 1982
6 Lagadinova (left) with an
young Irina Bokova (right) at
the Third UN Conference on
Women in Nairobi in 1985
7 In Razlog with Kristen
Ghodsee in 2013
3
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Tousands o Hassidim gatherin Ukrainian city to celebrate
Jewish New Year by Dimana Trankova photography by Anthony Georgieff
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Dusty and drab devoid of any charm unless you count the 983089983096thCentury Sofyivka Park and the Georgian cheese pastries at the busstation the Ukrainian city of Uman would be a strong contender forthe most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe
But it is not the most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe ndash atleast not for a couple of days each year when it gets filled with joyfulcrowds of Ultra religious Jews flown in from as far as Canada BritainIsrael and Australia to celebrate the Jewish New Year usually inSeptember They all converge at Pushkin Street take out their heavyluggage and drag it to their rented rooms in small houses and tallSocialist apartment blocks Music is booming the smell of cookedfood comes from the tents of the openair eateries Happy people inthe streets greet each other smiling from ear to ear when they meetand embrace some old friend
Uman a city of roughly 983097983088983088983088983088 residents in western Ukraine is thefocus of pilgrimage for Hasidic Jews who come here to celebrate atthe tomb of one of their greatest spiritual leaders
Rebbe Nachman (9830899830959830951048626-983089983096983089983088) of Breslov was the great-grandson ofBaal Shem Tov the founder of Hasidism a conservative movementthat spread among the Ashkenazi Jews in Eastern Europe He showedthe first signs of having a special connection with the divine as earlyas 983089983095 and spent the next decades of his life moving around the areaof what is now western Ukraine and eastern Poland attractingfollowers Rebbe Nachmans travels even brought him to Palestine where he met and talked with prominent Jewish sages and scholars
In 9830899830969830881048626 he settled in Bratslav (as Breslov is more commonlyknown) and announced the creation of a new movement ofHasidism the Breslov Hasidism
When pilgrimage to Rebbe
Nachmans grave resumed in
the early 1990s the locals ofUman were amazed by the Rosh
Hashanah antics of visiting Jews
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Rebbe Nachman was incredibly popular but not everyone
liked him because of some of his more radical ideas one of whichencouraged people to feel free to find spiritual leaders for themselvesand to break with the tradition of the hereditary Hasidic dynastiesRebbe Nachman also encouraged the individual search for the divineHis teachings spread during tumultuous times The beginning of the983089983097th Century saw the spread of democratic ideas across Europe andfor the first time in centuries Jews enjoyed ndash at least theoretically ndashequal rights Many chose fuller integration into the modernEuropean society but for more conservative Jews these changesthreatened the foundation of their communities The teachingsof Rebbe Nachman were a sort of reaction to this trend blendingtradition with more individual freedom
Whether Rebbe Nachman thought of himself as a Messiah is stilla matter of dispute Some phrases from his teachings would makegreat Facebook quotes in todays era of soul-searching and positivethinking such as If you believe that you can damage then believethat you can fixrdquo or You are never given an obstacle you cannotovercome
In Breslov Rebbe Nachman saw his movement flourish andgrow with great crowds of followers assembling for feasts like RoshHashanah Chanukah or Shavuot when they eagerly listened to histeachings In 983089983096983089983088 however he had to move
Consumption had been devouring the still young Rebbe Nachmanfor some time and then his house was destroyed by fire He movedto nearby Uman a town of great significance for the local Jewishcommunity In 983089983095983094983096 about 1048626983088983088983088983088 Jews from Uman along withmany Poles and Uniate Ukrainians were killed by the UkrainianHaidamak rebels who had risen against the then Polish-LithuanianCommonwealth
1 Selling Rebbe Nachman-
themed techno music on Pushkin
Street
2 For many Breslov Hasidim the
pilgrimage is also an opportunity
to meet old friends and make
new ones
3 Rebbe Nachman is the
descendant of Baal Shem Tov the
founder of Hasidism a branch
of Orthodox Judaism wheremysticism is at the foundation of
spirituality
3
1
2
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Over the following two decades the Rosh Hashanah gatheringin Uman became ever stronger On average about 983089983088983088983088983088-983089983093983088983088983088Hasidim come to celebrate each year The atmosphere is festive in thestreets and tense around the grave of Rebbe Nachman and peopleare generally friendly even when they notice the odd tourist in thecrowd Many of the pilgrims get tipsy and dance to rave and rock
music booming from stalls gardens and balconies Children runto and fro carrying presents bought from the ramshackle openairmarket
There are signs however that these people are not the average partygoers The song lyrics are devoted to Rebbe Nachman Umanand Rosh Hashanah Shofars howl and the streets are lined withbarbers shaving the heads of pilgrims in the traditional way The posters on the walls announce the scheduled flights to and fromUman and the crowd is predominantly male
Sometimes there is violence Many locals are not happy with the pilgrims and the fact that many Hasidim have bought propertiesaround Pushkin Street introducing their very specific lifestyle Thereare complaints about the noise and the rubbish and the level ofsecurity 1048626983088983089983088 is remembered for several sometimes bloody fightsbetween locals and pilgrims Overall though visiting Uman for RoshHashanah can turn into the experience of a lifetime even for people with only a faint interest in Judaism The event is an immersion in abygone era right amid the post-Soviet reality of Ukraine
In 1048626983088983089983092 Rosh Hashanah begins at sunset on 1048626983092 September andends at nightfall of 1048626983094 September
Top After decades of
prosecution pilgrimage in Uman
is again safe and many children
mingle in the crowd
Bottom A Jewish boy tries his
brand new plastic gun bought
as a New Years present froma makeshift openair market in
Uman
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983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150 984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143Stara Zagora50 Han Asparuh St Zagorka lakephone 042 985 555 042 985 555
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983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150983123983156983137983154983137 983130983137983143983151983154983137
Липи прави улици и дружелюбна
атмосфера в един от най-интересните градове на България
текст Димитър Ивановфотография Антони Георгиев
by Dimitar Ivanovphotography by Anthony Georgieff
Lindens straight streets and
fiendly atmosphere in one o themost interesting cities o Bulgaria
984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143984097984130984112984128984112 984087984112984115984126984128984112
Когато се чудите накъде да тръгнете в първите топлидни на есента Стара Загора е едно от най-добрите ре-шения Отдалечен на 10486263983088 км по магистрала Тракияградът е изключително близо за онези които живеят вСофия и предлага много повече спокойствие и зелени-на от столицата дружелюбна атмосфера приятни заве-дения и исторически и природни забележителностикоито да запълнят кратката ви ваканция
Стара Загора е един от най-старите градове в ЕвропаПървите хора се заселили тук около VII-VI хилядоле-тие пр Хр Около IV впрХр на мястото на съвремен-на Стара Загора се появява град на траките известен с
When you are wondering where to go for the first warm days of the autumn Stara Zagora is one of the bestsolutions About 10486263983088 km on the Trakiya Motorway thecity is close enough for those living in Sofia and offersmore serenity and greenery than the capital The city hasalso nice cafeacutes and restaurants and enough historical andnature sites to fill a short holiday
Stara Zagora is one of the oldest cities in EuropeThe fist people settled in the area around the 983095-983094thmillennia BC Around the 983092th Century BC on the placeof modern Stara Zagora appeared a settlement of theThracians which was called Beroe It was conquered by
phone 042 985 555 042 985 555reservationshotelstarazagoraeu
wwwhotelstarazagoraeu
The fi ve-star Park Hotel Stara Zagora is situated on the bank of the romantic Zagorka Lake in Stara Zagora
Hotel with 31 luxurious rooms two luxurious apartments and one VIP apartment
State-of-the-art SPA centre with swimming pool jacuzzi fitness hall steam bath sauna
Turkish bath and massage room
Six conference rooms with capacity between seven and 250 people equipped with multimedia
and other presentational technique and tools Orfeida Restaurant with amazing interior and a capacity for up to 150 people plus a summer and a winter garden
Park for biking fishing boating jogging and other sports and activities
All dreams lead toPark Hotel Stara Zagora
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
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where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
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15
galleryloranyahoocom
wwwgallerylorancom
L O R A N G A L L E R Y
Petar Kolev Spring at Vratsa 1971oil canvas 10082 cm
Nevena Gancheva September the 1960soil canvas 100695 cm
Vladimir Dimitrov ndash MaystoraPortrait of Georgi Dimitrov oil canvas 97835 cm
Vasil Evtimov Down With Race Segregation 1944oil canvas 4857 cm
Kiril Mayski Brigadiers the 1950swatercolour paper 72895 cm
Sofia 16 Oborishte St(entrance from Vasil Aprilov Street)
Monday-Saturday from 11 am to 7 pm
Sunday from 11 am to 6 pmphone 02 483 0877
The diverse collection includes many
genres and styles and is representative
for the period The earliest exhibits are
the All for the Frontline All for the Victory
sketch by Vladimir Dimitrov ndash Maystora
and Down With Race Segregation by VasilEvtimov Specific attention deserves
the oil portrait of dictator Georgi
Dimitrov painted by Maystora in his
trademark style The exhibition includes
compositions dedicated to the
Brigadier Movement the
collectivisation of the agrarian lands
and the 1923 September Uprising An
accent not only because of its size is apainting by Ioan Leviev denouncing the
Pinochet regime in Chilli
The main message of the exhibition
is that the art of the period deserved
not only to be remembered but also to
be surveyed and cherished The Loran
Art Gallery is aware of the controversy
of the exhibition but it stands by itbelieving that history whatever it was
should be known and remembered
Socialist orTotalitarian Art
9 September ndash 9 October
2014
L O R A N G A L L E R Y
The current exhibition of Loran Art
Gallery is provoked by art in Socialist
Bulgaria created between 9 September
1944 and 10 November 1989 Bulgarians
still struggle with their understandingsof the period trapped between sweet
nostalgia and memories for violation
of basic human r ights The notion towards
Socialist art is equally ambiguous
In such an atmosphere it is hardly a
surprise that only two months after
Loran Art Gallery nurtured the concept
for the exhibition the gallery gatheredmore pieces of Socialist art than it could
accommodate on its premises So the
online exhibition in the gallerys website
is much richer than the actual one
The Socialist or Totalitarian Art exhibition
doesnt aim to vindicate the art of the
period or to celebrate the 70th anniversary
of the Communist coup The gallery wantsto demonstrate that the useless propaganda
art of the past today holds a significant
artistic and market value
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16 17
Analyst Lyuboslava Ruseva dissectsBulgarias politics as BoykosGERB prepare to return to power
interview and photography by Anthony Georgieff
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24 25
by Stamen Manolov
High Beam is a series of articles initiated by Vagabond Magazine with the generous support
of the America for Bulgaria Foundation that aims to provide details and background of places
cultural entities events personalities and facts of life that are sometimes difficult to understandfor the outsider in the Balkans The ultimate aim is the preservation of Bulgarias cultural heritage ndash
including but not limited to archaeological cultural and ethnic diversity
Email your answers toeditorialvagabondbg
and you can win a copy o
Wall-to-WallPoetry of Europe Vagabonds guide
to the poetry walls o Soia
This is possibly the biggest Communist-era monstrosity in
Bulgaria outshining even the Flying Saucer congress hall-cum-temple at Buzludzha It was erected in 983089983097983096983089 as part of amegalomaniacal project masterminded by Todor Zhivkovsdaughter to mark the 9830893983088983088th anniversary of the foundation ofthe Bulgaria state an euphemism for pumping up nationalismNow at least 3983088983088983088983088 tons of concrete stand exposed to theelements above a large Bulgarian city but unlike Buzludzhathis monument has not been abandoned The local city councileven charges entry fees to let you go into it A particular
favourite to Japanese and Israeli tourists (but for completelydifferent reasons)Where in Bulgaria are you
copy A n t h o n y G e o r g i e ff
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by Bozhidara Georgieva photography by Anthony Georgieff
Former monastery prisonbecomes tourist attraction
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30 31
This publicity did not have any impact on the island itself In the983089983097983094983088s Bolshevik Island became a place of recreation for the artisticcircles of Burgas but the buildings fell into disrepair and soon theonly thing still intact on the island was the lighthouse The currentlighthouse which was supplied with electricity as late as the 983089983097983094983088sdates back to 983089983096983096983097 with a major facelift in 983089983097983089983092
After the democratic changes of 983089983097983096983097 Bolshevik Island became StAnastasia Island once more The regular boat services however were
discontinued and decay overtook the former monastic and prisonbuildings St Anastasia became a ghostly place which a handful of visitors per year could reach only if they hired a fisherman to bringthem to the island A basic tavern provided even more basic foodand the more adventurous slept in the dilapidated rooms of themonastery
The desolation and decay of St Anastasia are captured withdocumentary precision in Kamen Kalevs 1048626983088983089983089 feature movie he
Island
In 1048626983088983089983092 however the Burgas City Council completed a majorreconstruction project on the island The monastery buildingshave been restored and renovated there is better accommodationfor visitors who decide to spend the night on the island and therestaurant has been improved and the tourist infrastructure includesa small museum and a medieval pharmacy where local herbs aregrown
Reaching the island is easier with regular boats leaving several timesa day from the renovated Burgas Pier The crossing takes under an
hour and makes for a lovely day trip out of Burgas The St AnastasiaIslands turbulent history seems to have been provided with a happyending
1 The lighthouse of St Anastasia
Island was built in the 1880s by a
French company but the tower is
from 1912 In the waters nearby
stands one of the geological
curiosities of the island The
Mushroom rock
2 The regular tourist boats to StAnastasia start from the renovated
pier of Burgas
3 Founded in the 16th Century
the monastery and its church
suffered heavily from pirate
raids and were renovated at the
beginning of the 19th Century In
1923 the monastery was turned
into a prison
4 Rusting remains from periods
of desolation Today St Anastasiais a welcoming place with a nice
restaurant and a multimedia
museum
1 3
4
2
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32
Magical Rhodope site tells storieso Dionysus Alexander the Great
and Augustus
by Bozhidara Georgieva photography by Anthony Georgieff
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Covering more than 983093 square kilometres Perperikon is the biggestmegalithic site in the Balkans
The first people arrived here 983096983088983088983088 years ago and carved the rocksso they could fill the crevices with fragments of pots as offerings tothe unknown deities or spirits they believed in Then these people
disappeared from Perperikon After a hiatus of about 983089983088983088983088 years atthe end of the 983093th and the beginning of the 983092th millennia BC thehill again became the focal point of religious activity In the 983089983096th-9830891048626thcenturies BC the sanctuary was already so extensive and famous thatartefacts belonging to the Minoan and Mycenaean civilisations arenow found there
Perperikon experienced a decline in the 983092th-983089st centuries BCbut when the Romans took over Thrace activity resumed and newbuildings adorned the hill In the 983094th Century however Christianity
took over and the sanctuary was abandoned Unlike other pagansacred places in the Balkans Perperikon did not fall completelysilent
Christians moved into the empty shrines built churches over themand turned Perperikon into the stronghold of local bishops It allcame to an end in 98308939830941048626 when the Ottomans invaded and people leftPerperikon for good leaving the hill to nature which soon swallowedup the remains of the churches and the Thracian shrines
The site was rediscovered by archaeologists in the 1048626983088th Century
but Perperikon only became a household name in the early 1048626983088983088983088s when excavations started again and the theory that it had belonged tothe Oracle of Dionysus was promoted as a proven fact
Previous spread Remains of cult
pits and graves in the bedrock
Perperikon was built on solid rock
so the bases of each building and
even the graves were hewn in
the stone
Deciphering the traces in the
bedrock is not easy Some believe
that the pits covering the surface
of Perperikon were only for ritual
purposes Actually most weremade to support columns of
buildings or to store food and
liquids
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Major river breaks outin Stara Planina heading
towards Black Seaby Minka Vazkresenska photography by Anthony Georgieff
How to define the source of a river is often a tough question toanswer Is it where water springs from the ground for the first timeor is it the place where two or more streams merge into a larger flowEven the source of the Danube Europes largest river is contentiousat least three springs claim to be the beginnings of the mighty river
The Kamchiya River is no exception Theoretically it is only983092983094 kilometres long and flows through northeastern Bulgaria before joining the Black Sea at a particularly beautiful and terrifyinglymosquito-infested forest With its major tributary the Golyama orGrand Kamchiya the river is 1048626983092983092 kilometres long making it the983096th longest river in Bulgaria The official source of the GolyamaKamchiya ndash and of the Kamchiya ndash is in the Lisa Planina at analtitude of about 983095983089983088 metres above sea level
But there is a spot high up in the Stara Planina on the border ofits central and eastern parts which has gained popularity as the truesource of the Kamchiya It is where the second major tributaryof the river confusingly called the Luda or Crazy Kamchiya springsup as a tiny stream runs eastwards for 1048626983088983088 kilometres and joins theGolyama Kamchiya The Luda Kamchiya is the 983089983088th longest river inBulgaria
The popularity of the Luda Kamchiyas spring as the genuinebeginning of the Kamchiya River (are you already confused)
is probably due to its location It is in a pleasant and historicallysignificant spot the Vratnik Pass connecting Veliko Tarnovo andElena to the north with Sliven south of the Stara Planina
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Situated at an altitude of 983089983088983097983095 metres above sea level and being 983089983088kilometres long the Vratnik Pass used to be a main route through themountain The Romans built a road along it and in the Middle Agesa strong fort guarded it a frequent site of battles between Bulgariansand Byzantines The importance of the pass was mirrored in its nameZhelezni Vrata and Demir Kapiya mean Iron Gates in Bulgarian andTurkish resepctively The modern-day name of the pass Vratnik wasadopted in 9830899830979830921048626 and just means Gate
Today the pass is almost deserted as most drivers prefer to avoid thenarrow potholed road which zigzags through a thick forest Even insummer when you stop at the highest part of the pass to look for theKamchiyas source you will most probably find the place empty
Actually empty means empty of tourists The forest around thespring is the temporary home of of some Gypsies families dealing with lumberjacking and mushroom-pickingTheir ragged tents madeof old blankets and sheets of nylon are all over the place as are theheaps of household garbage
The scenery becomes almost surreal when mist descends drenchingthe forest in white and leaving only the dark trunks of the closesttrees visible
The Luda Kamchiyas spring is east of the road in a depressionhidden by tall trees Spectacular it is not as it is fed into a waterfountain The water fountain inscription however is grandiose Tothose fallen for freedom Glorify their sacred feat you unendinglyflowing Kamchiya
There is some justification for this Only 1048626 kilometres east of thespring is Aglikina Polyana or Aglikas Meadow where the Bulgarianhayduti or 983089983097th Century rebels used to meet They lived in themountains as far away from the Ottoman authorities as possibleexcept for when they attacked and robbed Ottoman convoys at the pass
Aglikina Polyana is heavily represented in Bulgarian heroic folklorehas a protected area status and hosts a regular folklore meeting
You can visit Aglikina Polyana from here but in any case be sure to
kneel at the water fountain which is the source of the Luda Kamchiyaand take a drink It is not that often that you can drink the cool clear waters of a river at its source
Top Semi-wild horses roam freely
around the Vratnik Pass
Bottom The beginnings of a 200-
kilometre Luda Kamchiya river
46 47
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Remote village pro983158idesunspoilt old-time atmosphere great ood by Violeta Rozova photography by Anthony Georgieff
Rural tourism in Bulgaria was barely known 1048626983088 years ago butin the early 1048626983088983088983088s it experienced an EU-funded boom But in thelate 1048626983088983088983088s the still ongoing economic crisis hit and now manyguesthouses are struggling to survive with the decreased numberof visitors In the western fringes of the Rhodope however is atraditional village which is still one of the best places for ruraltourism in Bulgaria
Leshten close to Gotse Delchev actually invented rural tourismin Bulgaria Since the mid-983089983097983097983088s it has been the first choice for anescape from the big city for all those interested in clean air delicioushealthy food and genuinely and intelligently preserved architecture
Truth to tell Leshten is hardly a village nowadays Only 983089983088 peoplelive there and most of them are septuagenarian In the 983089983097th and thefirst half of the 1048626983088th centuries however Leshten was a bustling placehome to more than 983093983088983088 people Unlike the inhabitants of nearbyKovachevitsa who built three- and four-storey mini fortresses to
protect their riches the people of Leshten were poor They had lessto lose and so they built houses of only two floors The ground level was for the livestock and the one above for the families
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Top A statue of two icecream
cones
Bottom The Buzludzha complex is
famous for its ghastly atmosphere
32
4
Kovachevitsa and Leshten both began to lose inhabitants at a greatrate after the Communist coup of 983089983097983092983092 when industrialisation andforced collectivisation striped the villagers of their livelihood andforced them to seek jobs in cities Kovachevitsa as a much grander village attracted the attention of Bulgarian film-makers in the 983089983097983095983088sand experienced a wave of new settlers mostly Sofia intellectuals who bought holiday homes there
Leshten was rediscovered much laterIn the mid-983089983097983097983088s a couple from Sofia found themselves in the
village with its ghostly and abandoned old houses They fell in love with Leshten as it had an unexpected advantage over crowd-pulling
Kovachevitsa Kovachevitsa is deep in the mountains and does nothave much of a vistaLeshten however has a marvellous view over the valley of the
Mesta River with the blue slopes of the Pirin defining the horizon983121uite unusually for the mid-983089983097983097983088s when everyone was either
leaving Bulgaria or flocking to Sofia where job prospects were betterthe couple moved to Leshten They bought some of the houses andturned them into holiday lets while preserving as much as possiblethe traditional architecture and opened one of the best restaurants
in Bulgaria This was in the long-disused local school next to thebeautiful and tiny St Paraskeva Church which dates from 9830899830963983094 and iscovered inside with primitive but captivating murals
1
1 The key to your room Each
detail in the 200-year old Leshten
houses has been preserved
2 3 The St Paraskeva Church
was built in 1837 and has been
listed as a local monument of
culture
4 Having breakfast while enjoying
the view to the Mesta Valley and
the Pirin is one of Leshtens many
pleasures
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The food in the tavern was locally sourced long before this became
fashionable Almost everything on the menu comes from the areafrom the wild berry juice and the thick sheeprsquos yoghurt to thetraditional egg noodles and the meatballs which are prepared not ofmince but of finely chopped meat
The restored traditional houses are on a par with the foods qualityIntelligently preserved yet having mod cons they smell of ageing wood geraniums and of woollen rugs warmed by the sun The wallsare whitewashed white linen curtains with embroidery shade the windows and the slightly crooked beams of the floor squeak quietly
under your feetRecently however more people decided to profit on Leshten
More houses were turned into hotels and as the competition grewone night the old school caught fire and burned to the ground Thetavern was re-established in a newer building with a beautiful viewof the Mesta Valley The food is still gorgeous the best the Rhodopeand the people living in these beautiful mountains can give you
This series of articles is supported by theAmerica for Bulgaria Foundation The
statements and opinions expressed herein
are those of the authors and do not necessarily
reflect the opinion of the America for Bulgaria
Foundation and its partners
1 Stone was used extensively in
building the houses of Leshten
and even the roofs are f rom rock
The technique was popular in
Bulgaria until the beginning of
the 20th Century but was later
abandoned It has been enjoying
a revival in recent years as surge
of interest in eco tourism has
brought it back to fashion
2 Leshten is a good basefor exploring of the Western
Rhodope with traditional villages
like Kovachevitsa and Dolen and
pristine wild nature all around
3 Fresco from St Paraskeva
Church with a didactic scene
advertising the advantages of
pious life
3
1
2
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Case study of senior Communist offi cialElena Lagadinova reveals unexpectedaspects of superpower confrontation
by Kristen Ghodsee all photographs courtesy of the author
One of the great ironies of the Cold War is that the twosuperpowers often championed issues that they cared little aboutin practice The East bloc defended the social rights of the worldrsquos workers while treating their own citizens like indentured servantsThe United States campaigned for political freedoms abroad whilebrutally oppressing or marginalising their own African-Americanand Native American populations at home Any rhetoric thatcould be deployed against the enemy became a weapon in the widerideological battle
Today historians and social scientists are studying the internationallegacies of these Cold War rivalries over social and politicalrights Whether it is labor conventions at the International LaborOrganisation political self-determination for previously colonisedcountries or the end to state-sanctioned racial discrimination in theUnited States or in apartheid-era South Africa the general scholarlyconsensus is that ordinary people ndash whether in the capitalist
Communist or developing worlds ndash benefitted from superpowercompetition An unintended consequence of American and Sovietgrandstanding was often real social progress
1
2
2
4
54
6 7
1 Elena The Amazon
Lagadinova in 1945
2 With Valentina Tereshkova
3 Delivering a speech in 1970
4 With the US activist Angela
Davis in 1972
5 Hosting a school for African
women leaders in Sofia in 1982
6 Lagadinova (left) with an
young Irina Bokova (right) at
the Third UN Conference on
Women in Nairobi in 1985
7 In Razlog with Kristen
Ghodsee in 2013
3
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Tousands o Hassidim gatherin Ukrainian city to celebrate
Jewish New Year by Dimana Trankova photography by Anthony Georgieff
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Dusty and drab devoid of any charm unless you count the 983089983096thCentury Sofyivka Park and the Georgian cheese pastries at the busstation the Ukrainian city of Uman would be a strong contender forthe most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe
But it is not the most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe ndash atleast not for a couple of days each year when it gets filled with joyfulcrowds of Ultra religious Jews flown in from as far as Canada BritainIsrael and Australia to celebrate the Jewish New Year usually inSeptember They all converge at Pushkin Street take out their heavyluggage and drag it to their rented rooms in small houses and tallSocialist apartment blocks Music is booming the smell of cookedfood comes from the tents of the openair eateries Happy people inthe streets greet each other smiling from ear to ear when they meetand embrace some old friend
Uman a city of roughly 983097983088983088983088983088 residents in western Ukraine is thefocus of pilgrimage for Hasidic Jews who come here to celebrate atthe tomb of one of their greatest spiritual leaders
Rebbe Nachman (9830899830959830951048626-983089983096983089983088) of Breslov was the great-grandson ofBaal Shem Tov the founder of Hasidism a conservative movementthat spread among the Ashkenazi Jews in Eastern Europe He showedthe first signs of having a special connection with the divine as earlyas 983089983095 and spent the next decades of his life moving around the areaof what is now western Ukraine and eastern Poland attractingfollowers Rebbe Nachmans travels even brought him to Palestine where he met and talked with prominent Jewish sages and scholars
In 9830899830969830881048626 he settled in Bratslav (as Breslov is more commonlyknown) and announced the creation of a new movement ofHasidism the Breslov Hasidism
When pilgrimage to Rebbe
Nachmans grave resumed in
the early 1990s the locals ofUman were amazed by the Rosh
Hashanah antics of visiting Jews
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Rebbe Nachman was incredibly popular but not everyone
liked him because of some of his more radical ideas one of whichencouraged people to feel free to find spiritual leaders for themselvesand to break with the tradition of the hereditary Hasidic dynastiesRebbe Nachman also encouraged the individual search for the divineHis teachings spread during tumultuous times The beginning of the983089983097th Century saw the spread of democratic ideas across Europe andfor the first time in centuries Jews enjoyed ndash at least theoretically ndashequal rights Many chose fuller integration into the modernEuropean society but for more conservative Jews these changesthreatened the foundation of their communities The teachingsof Rebbe Nachman were a sort of reaction to this trend blendingtradition with more individual freedom
Whether Rebbe Nachman thought of himself as a Messiah is stilla matter of dispute Some phrases from his teachings would makegreat Facebook quotes in todays era of soul-searching and positivethinking such as If you believe that you can damage then believethat you can fixrdquo or You are never given an obstacle you cannotovercome
In Breslov Rebbe Nachman saw his movement flourish andgrow with great crowds of followers assembling for feasts like RoshHashanah Chanukah or Shavuot when they eagerly listened to histeachings In 983089983096983089983088 however he had to move
Consumption had been devouring the still young Rebbe Nachmanfor some time and then his house was destroyed by fire He movedto nearby Uman a town of great significance for the local Jewishcommunity In 983089983095983094983096 about 1048626983088983088983088983088 Jews from Uman along withmany Poles and Uniate Ukrainians were killed by the UkrainianHaidamak rebels who had risen against the then Polish-LithuanianCommonwealth
1 Selling Rebbe Nachman-
themed techno music on Pushkin
Street
2 For many Breslov Hasidim the
pilgrimage is also an opportunity
to meet old friends and make
new ones
3 Rebbe Nachman is the
descendant of Baal Shem Tov the
founder of Hasidism a branch
of Orthodox Judaism wheremysticism is at the foundation of
spirituality
3
1
2
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Over the following two decades the Rosh Hashanah gatheringin Uman became ever stronger On average about 983089983088983088983088983088-983089983093983088983088983088Hasidim come to celebrate each year The atmosphere is festive in thestreets and tense around the grave of Rebbe Nachman and peopleare generally friendly even when they notice the odd tourist in thecrowd Many of the pilgrims get tipsy and dance to rave and rock
music booming from stalls gardens and balconies Children runto and fro carrying presents bought from the ramshackle openairmarket
There are signs however that these people are not the average partygoers The song lyrics are devoted to Rebbe Nachman Umanand Rosh Hashanah Shofars howl and the streets are lined withbarbers shaving the heads of pilgrims in the traditional way The posters on the walls announce the scheduled flights to and fromUman and the crowd is predominantly male
Sometimes there is violence Many locals are not happy with the pilgrims and the fact that many Hasidim have bought propertiesaround Pushkin Street introducing their very specific lifestyle Thereare complaints about the noise and the rubbish and the level ofsecurity 1048626983088983089983088 is remembered for several sometimes bloody fightsbetween locals and pilgrims Overall though visiting Uman for RoshHashanah can turn into the experience of a lifetime even for people with only a faint interest in Judaism The event is an immersion in abygone era right amid the post-Soviet reality of Ukraine
In 1048626983088983089983092 Rosh Hashanah begins at sunset on 1048626983092 September andends at nightfall of 1048626983094 September
Top After decades of
prosecution pilgrimage in Uman
is again safe and many children
mingle in the crowd
Bottom A Jewish boy tries his
brand new plastic gun bought
as a New Years present froma makeshift openair market in
Uman
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983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150 984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143Stara Zagora50 Han Asparuh St Zagorka lakephone 042 985 555 042 985 555
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983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150983123983156983137983154983137 983130983137983143983151983154983137
Липи прави улици и дружелюбна
атмосфера в един от най-интересните градове на България
текст Димитър Ивановфотография Антони Георгиев
by Dimitar Ivanovphotography by Anthony Georgieff
Lindens straight streets and
fiendly atmosphere in one o themost interesting cities o Bulgaria
984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143984097984130984112984128984112 984087984112984115984126984128984112
Когато се чудите накъде да тръгнете в първите топлидни на есента Стара Загора е едно от най-добрите ре-шения Отдалечен на 10486263983088 км по магистрала Тракияградът е изключително близо за онези които живеят вСофия и предлага много повече спокойствие и зелени-на от столицата дружелюбна атмосфера приятни заве-дения и исторически и природни забележителностикоито да запълнят кратката ви ваканция
Стара Загора е един от най-старите градове в ЕвропаПървите хора се заселили тук около VII-VI хилядоле-тие пр Хр Около IV впрХр на мястото на съвремен-на Стара Загора се появява град на траките известен с
When you are wondering where to go for the first warm days of the autumn Stara Zagora is one of the bestsolutions About 10486263983088 km on the Trakiya Motorway thecity is close enough for those living in Sofia and offersmore serenity and greenery than the capital The city hasalso nice cafeacutes and restaurants and enough historical andnature sites to fill a short holiday
Stara Zagora is one of the oldest cities in EuropeThe fist people settled in the area around the 983095-983094thmillennia BC Around the 983092th Century BC on the placeof modern Stara Zagora appeared a settlement of theThracians which was called Beroe It was conquered by
phone 042 985 555 042 985 555reservationshotelstarazagoraeu
wwwhotelstarazagoraeu
The fi ve-star Park Hotel Stara Zagora is situated on the bank of the romantic Zagorka Lake in Stara Zagora
Hotel with 31 luxurious rooms two luxurious apartments and one VIP apartment
State-of-the-art SPA centre with swimming pool jacuzzi fitness hall steam bath sauna
Turkish bath and massage room
Six conference rooms with capacity between seven and 250 people equipped with multimedia
and other presentational technique and tools Orfeida Restaurant with amazing interior and a capacity for up to 150 people plus a summer and a winter garden
Park for biking fishing boating jogging and other sports and activities
All dreams lead toPark Hotel Stara Zagora
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
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where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
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Analyst Lyuboslava Ruseva dissectsBulgarias politics as BoykosGERB prepare to return to power
interview and photography by Anthony Georgieff
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by Stamen Manolov
High Beam is a series of articles initiated by Vagabond Magazine with the generous support
of the America for Bulgaria Foundation that aims to provide details and background of places
cultural entities events personalities and facts of life that are sometimes difficult to understandfor the outsider in the Balkans The ultimate aim is the preservation of Bulgarias cultural heritage ndash
including but not limited to archaeological cultural and ethnic diversity
Email your answers toeditorialvagabondbg
and you can win a copy o
Wall-to-WallPoetry of Europe Vagabonds guide
to the poetry walls o Soia
This is possibly the biggest Communist-era monstrosity in
Bulgaria outshining even the Flying Saucer congress hall-cum-temple at Buzludzha It was erected in 983089983097983096983089 as part of amegalomaniacal project masterminded by Todor Zhivkovsdaughter to mark the 9830893983088983088th anniversary of the foundation ofthe Bulgaria state an euphemism for pumping up nationalismNow at least 3983088983088983088983088 tons of concrete stand exposed to theelements above a large Bulgarian city but unlike Buzludzhathis monument has not been abandoned The local city councileven charges entry fees to let you go into it A particular
favourite to Japanese and Israeli tourists (but for completelydifferent reasons)Where in Bulgaria are you
copy A n t h o n y G e o r g i e ff
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by Bozhidara Georgieva photography by Anthony Georgieff
Former monastery prisonbecomes tourist attraction
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30 31
This publicity did not have any impact on the island itself In the983089983097983094983088s Bolshevik Island became a place of recreation for the artisticcircles of Burgas but the buildings fell into disrepair and soon theonly thing still intact on the island was the lighthouse The currentlighthouse which was supplied with electricity as late as the 983089983097983094983088sdates back to 983089983096983096983097 with a major facelift in 983089983097983089983092
After the democratic changes of 983089983097983096983097 Bolshevik Island became StAnastasia Island once more The regular boat services however were
discontinued and decay overtook the former monastic and prisonbuildings St Anastasia became a ghostly place which a handful of visitors per year could reach only if they hired a fisherman to bringthem to the island A basic tavern provided even more basic foodand the more adventurous slept in the dilapidated rooms of themonastery
The desolation and decay of St Anastasia are captured withdocumentary precision in Kamen Kalevs 1048626983088983089983089 feature movie he
Island
In 1048626983088983089983092 however the Burgas City Council completed a majorreconstruction project on the island The monastery buildingshave been restored and renovated there is better accommodationfor visitors who decide to spend the night on the island and therestaurant has been improved and the tourist infrastructure includesa small museum and a medieval pharmacy where local herbs aregrown
Reaching the island is easier with regular boats leaving several timesa day from the renovated Burgas Pier The crossing takes under an
hour and makes for a lovely day trip out of Burgas The St AnastasiaIslands turbulent history seems to have been provided with a happyending
1 The lighthouse of St Anastasia
Island was built in the 1880s by a
French company but the tower is
from 1912 In the waters nearby
stands one of the geological
curiosities of the island The
Mushroom rock
2 The regular tourist boats to StAnastasia start from the renovated
pier of Burgas
3 Founded in the 16th Century
the monastery and its church
suffered heavily from pirate
raids and were renovated at the
beginning of the 19th Century In
1923 the monastery was turned
into a prison
4 Rusting remains from periods
of desolation Today St Anastasiais a welcoming place with a nice
restaurant and a multimedia
museum
1 3
4
2
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32
Magical Rhodope site tells storieso Dionysus Alexander the Great
and Augustus
by Bozhidara Georgieva photography by Anthony Georgieff
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Covering more than 983093 square kilometres Perperikon is the biggestmegalithic site in the Balkans
The first people arrived here 983096983088983088983088 years ago and carved the rocksso they could fill the crevices with fragments of pots as offerings tothe unknown deities or spirits they believed in Then these people
disappeared from Perperikon After a hiatus of about 983089983088983088983088 years atthe end of the 983093th and the beginning of the 983092th millennia BC thehill again became the focal point of religious activity In the 983089983096th-9830891048626thcenturies BC the sanctuary was already so extensive and famous thatartefacts belonging to the Minoan and Mycenaean civilisations arenow found there
Perperikon experienced a decline in the 983092th-983089st centuries BCbut when the Romans took over Thrace activity resumed and newbuildings adorned the hill In the 983094th Century however Christianity
took over and the sanctuary was abandoned Unlike other pagansacred places in the Balkans Perperikon did not fall completelysilent
Christians moved into the empty shrines built churches over themand turned Perperikon into the stronghold of local bishops It allcame to an end in 98308939830941048626 when the Ottomans invaded and people leftPerperikon for good leaving the hill to nature which soon swallowedup the remains of the churches and the Thracian shrines
The site was rediscovered by archaeologists in the 1048626983088th Century
but Perperikon only became a household name in the early 1048626983088983088983088s when excavations started again and the theory that it had belonged tothe Oracle of Dionysus was promoted as a proven fact
Previous spread Remains of cult
pits and graves in the bedrock
Perperikon was built on solid rock
so the bases of each building and
even the graves were hewn in
the stone
Deciphering the traces in the
bedrock is not easy Some believe
that the pits covering the surface
of Perperikon were only for ritual
purposes Actually most weremade to support columns of
buildings or to store food and
liquids
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Major river breaks outin Stara Planina heading
towards Black Seaby Minka Vazkresenska photography by Anthony Georgieff
How to define the source of a river is often a tough question toanswer Is it where water springs from the ground for the first timeor is it the place where two or more streams merge into a larger flowEven the source of the Danube Europes largest river is contentiousat least three springs claim to be the beginnings of the mighty river
The Kamchiya River is no exception Theoretically it is only983092983094 kilometres long and flows through northeastern Bulgaria before joining the Black Sea at a particularly beautiful and terrifyinglymosquito-infested forest With its major tributary the Golyama orGrand Kamchiya the river is 1048626983092983092 kilometres long making it the983096th longest river in Bulgaria The official source of the GolyamaKamchiya ndash and of the Kamchiya ndash is in the Lisa Planina at analtitude of about 983095983089983088 metres above sea level
But there is a spot high up in the Stara Planina on the border ofits central and eastern parts which has gained popularity as the truesource of the Kamchiya It is where the second major tributaryof the river confusingly called the Luda or Crazy Kamchiya springsup as a tiny stream runs eastwards for 1048626983088983088 kilometres and joins theGolyama Kamchiya The Luda Kamchiya is the 983089983088th longest river inBulgaria
The popularity of the Luda Kamchiyas spring as the genuinebeginning of the Kamchiya River (are you already confused)
is probably due to its location It is in a pleasant and historicallysignificant spot the Vratnik Pass connecting Veliko Tarnovo andElena to the north with Sliven south of the Stara Planina
44 45
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Situated at an altitude of 983089983088983097983095 metres above sea level and being 983089983088kilometres long the Vratnik Pass used to be a main route through themountain The Romans built a road along it and in the Middle Agesa strong fort guarded it a frequent site of battles between Bulgariansand Byzantines The importance of the pass was mirrored in its nameZhelezni Vrata and Demir Kapiya mean Iron Gates in Bulgarian andTurkish resepctively The modern-day name of the pass Vratnik wasadopted in 9830899830979830921048626 and just means Gate
Today the pass is almost deserted as most drivers prefer to avoid thenarrow potholed road which zigzags through a thick forest Even insummer when you stop at the highest part of the pass to look for theKamchiyas source you will most probably find the place empty
Actually empty means empty of tourists The forest around thespring is the temporary home of of some Gypsies families dealing with lumberjacking and mushroom-pickingTheir ragged tents madeof old blankets and sheets of nylon are all over the place as are theheaps of household garbage
The scenery becomes almost surreal when mist descends drenchingthe forest in white and leaving only the dark trunks of the closesttrees visible
The Luda Kamchiyas spring is east of the road in a depressionhidden by tall trees Spectacular it is not as it is fed into a waterfountain The water fountain inscription however is grandiose Tothose fallen for freedom Glorify their sacred feat you unendinglyflowing Kamchiya
There is some justification for this Only 1048626 kilometres east of thespring is Aglikina Polyana or Aglikas Meadow where the Bulgarianhayduti or 983089983097th Century rebels used to meet They lived in themountains as far away from the Ottoman authorities as possibleexcept for when they attacked and robbed Ottoman convoys at the pass
Aglikina Polyana is heavily represented in Bulgarian heroic folklorehas a protected area status and hosts a regular folklore meeting
You can visit Aglikina Polyana from here but in any case be sure to
kneel at the water fountain which is the source of the Luda Kamchiyaand take a drink It is not that often that you can drink the cool clear waters of a river at its source
Top Semi-wild horses roam freely
around the Vratnik Pass
Bottom The beginnings of a 200-
kilometre Luda Kamchiya river
46 47
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Remote village pro983158idesunspoilt old-time atmosphere great ood by Violeta Rozova photography by Anthony Georgieff
Rural tourism in Bulgaria was barely known 1048626983088 years ago butin the early 1048626983088983088983088s it experienced an EU-funded boom But in thelate 1048626983088983088983088s the still ongoing economic crisis hit and now manyguesthouses are struggling to survive with the decreased numberof visitors In the western fringes of the Rhodope however is atraditional village which is still one of the best places for ruraltourism in Bulgaria
Leshten close to Gotse Delchev actually invented rural tourismin Bulgaria Since the mid-983089983097983097983088s it has been the first choice for anescape from the big city for all those interested in clean air delicioushealthy food and genuinely and intelligently preserved architecture
Truth to tell Leshten is hardly a village nowadays Only 983089983088 peoplelive there and most of them are septuagenarian In the 983089983097th and thefirst half of the 1048626983088th centuries however Leshten was a bustling placehome to more than 983093983088983088 people Unlike the inhabitants of nearbyKovachevitsa who built three- and four-storey mini fortresses to
protect their riches the people of Leshten were poor They had lessto lose and so they built houses of only two floors The ground level was for the livestock and the one above for the families
48 49
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Top A statue of two icecream
cones
Bottom The Buzludzha complex is
famous for its ghastly atmosphere
32
4
Kovachevitsa and Leshten both began to lose inhabitants at a greatrate after the Communist coup of 983089983097983092983092 when industrialisation andforced collectivisation striped the villagers of their livelihood andforced them to seek jobs in cities Kovachevitsa as a much grander village attracted the attention of Bulgarian film-makers in the 983089983097983095983088sand experienced a wave of new settlers mostly Sofia intellectuals who bought holiday homes there
Leshten was rediscovered much laterIn the mid-983089983097983097983088s a couple from Sofia found themselves in the
village with its ghostly and abandoned old houses They fell in love with Leshten as it had an unexpected advantage over crowd-pulling
Kovachevitsa Kovachevitsa is deep in the mountains and does nothave much of a vistaLeshten however has a marvellous view over the valley of the
Mesta River with the blue slopes of the Pirin defining the horizon983121uite unusually for the mid-983089983097983097983088s when everyone was either
leaving Bulgaria or flocking to Sofia where job prospects were betterthe couple moved to Leshten They bought some of the houses andturned them into holiday lets while preserving as much as possiblethe traditional architecture and opened one of the best restaurants
in Bulgaria This was in the long-disused local school next to thebeautiful and tiny St Paraskeva Church which dates from 9830899830963983094 and iscovered inside with primitive but captivating murals
1
1 The key to your room Each
detail in the 200-year old Leshten
houses has been preserved
2 3 The St Paraskeva Church
was built in 1837 and has been
listed as a local monument of
culture
4 Having breakfast while enjoying
the view to the Mesta Valley and
the Pirin is one of Leshtens many
pleasures
50 51
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The food in the tavern was locally sourced long before this became
fashionable Almost everything on the menu comes from the areafrom the wild berry juice and the thick sheeprsquos yoghurt to thetraditional egg noodles and the meatballs which are prepared not ofmince but of finely chopped meat
The restored traditional houses are on a par with the foods qualityIntelligently preserved yet having mod cons they smell of ageing wood geraniums and of woollen rugs warmed by the sun The wallsare whitewashed white linen curtains with embroidery shade the windows and the slightly crooked beams of the floor squeak quietly
under your feetRecently however more people decided to profit on Leshten
More houses were turned into hotels and as the competition grewone night the old school caught fire and burned to the ground Thetavern was re-established in a newer building with a beautiful viewof the Mesta Valley The food is still gorgeous the best the Rhodopeand the people living in these beautiful mountains can give you
This series of articles is supported by theAmerica for Bulgaria Foundation The
statements and opinions expressed herein
are those of the authors and do not necessarily
reflect the opinion of the America for Bulgaria
Foundation and its partners
1 Stone was used extensively in
building the houses of Leshten
and even the roofs are f rom rock
The technique was popular in
Bulgaria until the beginning of
the 20th Century but was later
abandoned It has been enjoying
a revival in recent years as surge
of interest in eco tourism has
brought it back to fashion
2 Leshten is a good basefor exploring of the Western
Rhodope with traditional villages
like Kovachevitsa and Dolen and
pristine wild nature all around
3 Fresco from St Paraskeva
Church with a didactic scene
advertising the advantages of
pious life
3
1
2
52 53
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Case study of senior Communist offi cialElena Lagadinova reveals unexpectedaspects of superpower confrontation
by Kristen Ghodsee all photographs courtesy of the author
One of the great ironies of the Cold War is that the twosuperpowers often championed issues that they cared little aboutin practice The East bloc defended the social rights of the worldrsquos workers while treating their own citizens like indentured servantsThe United States campaigned for political freedoms abroad whilebrutally oppressing or marginalising their own African-Americanand Native American populations at home Any rhetoric thatcould be deployed against the enemy became a weapon in the widerideological battle
Today historians and social scientists are studying the internationallegacies of these Cold War rivalries over social and politicalrights Whether it is labor conventions at the International LaborOrganisation political self-determination for previously colonisedcountries or the end to state-sanctioned racial discrimination in theUnited States or in apartheid-era South Africa the general scholarlyconsensus is that ordinary people ndash whether in the capitalist
Communist or developing worlds ndash benefitted from superpowercompetition An unintended consequence of American and Sovietgrandstanding was often real social progress
1
2
2
4
54
6 7
1 Elena The Amazon
Lagadinova in 1945
2 With Valentina Tereshkova
3 Delivering a speech in 1970
4 With the US activist Angela
Davis in 1972
5 Hosting a school for African
women leaders in Sofia in 1982
6 Lagadinova (left) with an
young Irina Bokova (right) at
the Third UN Conference on
Women in Nairobi in 1985
7 In Razlog with Kristen
Ghodsee in 2013
3
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Tousands o Hassidim gatherin Ukrainian city to celebrate
Jewish New Year by Dimana Trankova photography by Anthony Georgieff
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Dusty and drab devoid of any charm unless you count the 983089983096thCentury Sofyivka Park and the Georgian cheese pastries at the busstation the Ukrainian city of Uman would be a strong contender forthe most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe
But it is not the most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe ndash atleast not for a couple of days each year when it gets filled with joyfulcrowds of Ultra religious Jews flown in from as far as Canada BritainIsrael and Australia to celebrate the Jewish New Year usually inSeptember They all converge at Pushkin Street take out their heavyluggage and drag it to their rented rooms in small houses and tallSocialist apartment blocks Music is booming the smell of cookedfood comes from the tents of the openair eateries Happy people inthe streets greet each other smiling from ear to ear when they meetand embrace some old friend
Uman a city of roughly 983097983088983088983088983088 residents in western Ukraine is thefocus of pilgrimage for Hasidic Jews who come here to celebrate atthe tomb of one of their greatest spiritual leaders
Rebbe Nachman (9830899830959830951048626-983089983096983089983088) of Breslov was the great-grandson ofBaal Shem Tov the founder of Hasidism a conservative movementthat spread among the Ashkenazi Jews in Eastern Europe He showedthe first signs of having a special connection with the divine as earlyas 983089983095 and spent the next decades of his life moving around the areaof what is now western Ukraine and eastern Poland attractingfollowers Rebbe Nachmans travels even brought him to Palestine where he met and talked with prominent Jewish sages and scholars
In 9830899830969830881048626 he settled in Bratslav (as Breslov is more commonlyknown) and announced the creation of a new movement ofHasidism the Breslov Hasidism
When pilgrimage to Rebbe
Nachmans grave resumed in
the early 1990s the locals ofUman were amazed by the Rosh
Hashanah antics of visiting Jews
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Rebbe Nachman was incredibly popular but not everyone
liked him because of some of his more radical ideas one of whichencouraged people to feel free to find spiritual leaders for themselvesand to break with the tradition of the hereditary Hasidic dynastiesRebbe Nachman also encouraged the individual search for the divineHis teachings spread during tumultuous times The beginning of the983089983097th Century saw the spread of democratic ideas across Europe andfor the first time in centuries Jews enjoyed ndash at least theoretically ndashequal rights Many chose fuller integration into the modernEuropean society but for more conservative Jews these changesthreatened the foundation of their communities The teachingsof Rebbe Nachman were a sort of reaction to this trend blendingtradition with more individual freedom
Whether Rebbe Nachman thought of himself as a Messiah is stilla matter of dispute Some phrases from his teachings would makegreat Facebook quotes in todays era of soul-searching and positivethinking such as If you believe that you can damage then believethat you can fixrdquo or You are never given an obstacle you cannotovercome
In Breslov Rebbe Nachman saw his movement flourish andgrow with great crowds of followers assembling for feasts like RoshHashanah Chanukah or Shavuot when they eagerly listened to histeachings In 983089983096983089983088 however he had to move
Consumption had been devouring the still young Rebbe Nachmanfor some time and then his house was destroyed by fire He movedto nearby Uman a town of great significance for the local Jewishcommunity In 983089983095983094983096 about 1048626983088983088983088983088 Jews from Uman along withmany Poles and Uniate Ukrainians were killed by the UkrainianHaidamak rebels who had risen against the then Polish-LithuanianCommonwealth
1 Selling Rebbe Nachman-
themed techno music on Pushkin
Street
2 For many Breslov Hasidim the
pilgrimage is also an opportunity
to meet old friends and make
new ones
3 Rebbe Nachman is the
descendant of Baal Shem Tov the
founder of Hasidism a branch
of Orthodox Judaism wheremysticism is at the foundation of
spirituality
3
1
2
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Over the following two decades the Rosh Hashanah gatheringin Uman became ever stronger On average about 983089983088983088983088983088-983089983093983088983088983088Hasidim come to celebrate each year The atmosphere is festive in thestreets and tense around the grave of Rebbe Nachman and peopleare generally friendly even when they notice the odd tourist in thecrowd Many of the pilgrims get tipsy and dance to rave and rock
music booming from stalls gardens and balconies Children runto and fro carrying presents bought from the ramshackle openairmarket
There are signs however that these people are not the average partygoers The song lyrics are devoted to Rebbe Nachman Umanand Rosh Hashanah Shofars howl and the streets are lined withbarbers shaving the heads of pilgrims in the traditional way The posters on the walls announce the scheduled flights to and fromUman and the crowd is predominantly male
Sometimes there is violence Many locals are not happy with the pilgrims and the fact that many Hasidim have bought propertiesaround Pushkin Street introducing their very specific lifestyle Thereare complaints about the noise and the rubbish and the level ofsecurity 1048626983088983089983088 is remembered for several sometimes bloody fightsbetween locals and pilgrims Overall though visiting Uman for RoshHashanah can turn into the experience of a lifetime even for people with only a faint interest in Judaism The event is an immersion in abygone era right amid the post-Soviet reality of Ukraine
In 1048626983088983089983092 Rosh Hashanah begins at sunset on 1048626983092 September andends at nightfall of 1048626983094 September
Top After decades of
prosecution pilgrimage in Uman
is again safe and many children
mingle in the crowd
Bottom A Jewish boy tries his
brand new plastic gun bought
as a New Years present froma makeshift openair market in
Uman
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82
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150 984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143Stara Zagora50 Han Asparuh St Zagorka lakephone 042 985 555 042 985 555
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983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150983123983156983137983154983137 983130983137983143983151983154983137
Липи прави улици и дружелюбна
атмосфера в един от най-интересните градове на България
текст Димитър Ивановфотография Антони Георгиев
by Dimitar Ivanovphotography by Anthony Georgieff
Lindens straight streets and
fiendly atmosphere in one o themost interesting cities o Bulgaria
984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143984097984130984112984128984112 984087984112984115984126984128984112
Когато се чудите накъде да тръгнете в първите топлидни на есента Стара Загора е едно от най-добрите ре-шения Отдалечен на 10486263983088 км по магистрала Тракияградът е изключително близо за онези които живеят вСофия и предлага много повече спокойствие и зелени-на от столицата дружелюбна атмосфера приятни заве-дения и исторически и природни забележителностикоито да запълнят кратката ви ваканция
Стара Загора е един от най-старите градове в ЕвропаПървите хора се заселили тук около VII-VI хилядоле-тие пр Хр Около IV впрХр на мястото на съвремен-на Стара Загора се появява град на траките известен с
When you are wondering where to go for the first warm days of the autumn Stara Zagora is one of the bestsolutions About 10486263983088 km on the Trakiya Motorway thecity is close enough for those living in Sofia and offersmore serenity and greenery than the capital The city hasalso nice cafeacutes and restaurants and enough historical andnature sites to fill a short holiday
Stara Zagora is one of the oldest cities in EuropeThe fist people settled in the area around the 983095-983094thmillennia BC Around the 983092th Century BC on the placeof modern Stara Zagora appeared a settlement of theThracians which was called Beroe It was conquered by
phone 042 985 555 042 985 555reservationshotelstarazagoraeu
wwwhotelstarazagoraeu
The fi ve-star Park Hotel Stara Zagora is situated on the bank of the romantic Zagorka Lake in Stara Zagora
Hotel with 31 luxurious rooms two luxurious apartments and one VIP apartment
State-of-the-art SPA centre with swimming pool jacuzzi fitness hall steam bath sauna
Turkish bath and massage room
Six conference rooms with capacity between seven and 250 people equipped with multimedia
and other presentational technique and tools Orfeida Restaurant with amazing interior and a capacity for up to 150 people plus a summer and a winter garden
Park for biking fishing boating jogging and other sports and activities
All dreams lead toPark Hotel Stara Zagora
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
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where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
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24 25
by Stamen Manolov
High Beam is a series of articles initiated by Vagabond Magazine with the generous support
of the America for Bulgaria Foundation that aims to provide details and background of places
cultural entities events personalities and facts of life that are sometimes difficult to understandfor the outsider in the Balkans The ultimate aim is the preservation of Bulgarias cultural heritage ndash
including but not limited to archaeological cultural and ethnic diversity
Email your answers toeditorialvagabondbg
and you can win a copy o
Wall-to-WallPoetry of Europe Vagabonds guide
to the poetry walls o Soia
This is possibly the biggest Communist-era monstrosity in
Bulgaria outshining even the Flying Saucer congress hall-cum-temple at Buzludzha It was erected in 983089983097983096983089 as part of amegalomaniacal project masterminded by Todor Zhivkovsdaughter to mark the 9830893983088983088th anniversary of the foundation ofthe Bulgaria state an euphemism for pumping up nationalismNow at least 3983088983088983088983088 tons of concrete stand exposed to theelements above a large Bulgarian city but unlike Buzludzhathis monument has not been abandoned The local city councileven charges entry fees to let you go into it A particular
favourite to Japanese and Israeli tourists (but for completelydifferent reasons)Where in Bulgaria are you
copy A n t h o n y G e o r g i e ff
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26 27
by Bozhidara Georgieva photography by Anthony Georgieff
Former monastery prisonbecomes tourist attraction
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30 31
This publicity did not have any impact on the island itself In the983089983097983094983088s Bolshevik Island became a place of recreation for the artisticcircles of Burgas but the buildings fell into disrepair and soon theonly thing still intact on the island was the lighthouse The currentlighthouse which was supplied with electricity as late as the 983089983097983094983088sdates back to 983089983096983096983097 with a major facelift in 983089983097983089983092
After the democratic changes of 983089983097983096983097 Bolshevik Island became StAnastasia Island once more The regular boat services however were
discontinued and decay overtook the former monastic and prisonbuildings St Anastasia became a ghostly place which a handful of visitors per year could reach only if they hired a fisherman to bringthem to the island A basic tavern provided even more basic foodand the more adventurous slept in the dilapidated rooms of themonastery
The desolation and decay of St Anastasia are captured withdocumentary precision in Kamen Kalevs 1048626983088983089983089 feature movie he
Island
In 1048626983088983089983092 however the Burgas City Council completed a majorreconstruction project on the island The monastery buildingshave been restored and renovated there is better accommodationfor visitors who decide to spend the night on the island and therestaurant has been improved and the tourist infrastructure includesa small museum and a medieval pharmacy where local herbs aregrown
Reaching the island is easier with regular boats leaving several timesa day from the renovated Burgas Pier The crossing takes under an
hour and makes for a lovely day trip out of Burgas The St AnastasiaIslands turbulent history seems to have been provided with a happyending
1 The lighthouse of St Anastasia
Island was built in the 1880s by a
French company but the tower is
from 1912 In the waters nearby
stands one of the geological
curiosities of the island The
Mushroom rock
2 The regular tourist boats to StAnastasia start from the renovated
pier of Burgas
3 Founded in the 16th Century
the monastery and its church
suffered heavily from pirate
raids and were renovated at the
beginning of the 19th Century In
1923 the monastery was turned
into a prison
4 Rusting remains from periods
of desolation Today St Anastasiais a welcoming place with a nice
restaurant and a multimedia
museum
1 3
4
2
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32
Magical Rhodope site tells storieso Dionysus Alexander the Great
and Augustus
by Bozhidara Georgieva photography by Anthony Georgieff
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Covering more than 983093 square kilometres Perperikon is the biggestmegalithic site in the Balkans
The first people arrived here 983096983088983088983088 years ago and carved the rocksso they could fill the crevices with fragments of pots as offerings tothe unknown deities or spirits they believed in Then these people
disappeared from Perperikon After a hiatus of about 983089983088983088983088 years atthe end of the 983093th and the beginning of the 983092th millennia BC thehill again became the focal point of religious activity In the 983089983096th-9830891048626thcenturies BC the sanctuary was already so extensive and famous thatartefacts belonging to the Minoan and Mycenaean civilisations arenow found there
Perperikon experienced a decline in the 983092th-983089st centuries BCbut when the Romans took over Thrace activity resumed and newbuildings adorned the hill In the 983094th Century however Christianity
took over and the sanctuary was abandoned Unlike other pagansacred places in the Balkans Perperikon did not fall completelysilent
Christians moved into the empty shrines built churches over themand turned Perperikon into the stronghold of local bishops It allcame to an end in 98308939830941048626 when the Ottomans invaded and people leftPerperikon for good leaving the hill to nature which soon swallowedup the remains of the churches and the Thracian shrines
The site was rediscovered by archaeologists in the 1048626983088th Century
but Perperikon only became a household name in the early 1048626983088983088983088s when excavations started again and the theory that it had belonged tothe Oracle of Dionysus was promoted as a proven fact
Previous spread Remains of cult
pits and graves in the bedrock
Perperikon was built on solid rock
so the bases of each building and
even the graves were hewn in
the stone
Deciphering the traces in the
bedrock is not easy Some believe
that the pits covering the surface
of Perperikon were only for ritual
purposes Actually most weremade to support columns of
buildings or to store food and
liquids
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Major river breaks outin Stara Planina heading
towards Black Seaby Minka Vazkresenska photography by Anthony Georgieff
How to define the source of a river is often a tough question toanswer Is it where water springs from the ground for the first timeor is it the place where two or more streams merge into a larger flowEven the source of the Danube Europes largest river is contentiousat least three springs claim to be the beginnings of the mighty river
The Kamchiya River is no exception Theoretically it is only983092983094 kilometres long and flows through northeastern Bulgaria before joining the Black Sea at a particularly beautiful and terrifyinglymosquito-infested forest With its major tributary the Golyama orGrand Kamchiya the river is 1048626983092983092 kilometres long making it the983096th longest river in Bulgaria The official source of the GolyamaKamchiya ndash and of the Kamchiya ndash is in the Lisa Planina at analtitude of about 983095983089983088 metres above sea level
But there is a spot high up in the Stara Planina on the border ofits central and eastern parts which has gained popularity as the truesource of the Kamchiya It is where the second major tributaryof the river confusingly called the Luda or Crazy Kamchiya springsup as a tiny stream runs eastwards for 1048626983088983088 kilometres and joins theGolyama Kamchiya The Luda Kamchiya is the 983089983088th longest river inBulgaria
The popularity of the Luda Kamchiyas spring as the genuinebeginning of the Kamchiya River (are you already confused)
is probably due to its location It is in a pleasant and historicallysignificant spot the Vratnik Pass connecting Veliko Tarnovo andElena to the north with Sliven south of the Stara Planina
44 45
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Situated at an altitude of 983089983088983097983095 metres above sea level and being 983089983088kilometres long the Vratnik Pass used to be a main route through themountain The Romans built a road along it and in the Middle Agesa strong fort guarded it a frequent site of battles between Bulgariansand Byzantines The importance of the pass was mirrored in its nameZhelezni Vrata and Demir Kapiya mean Iron Gates in Bulgarian andTurkish resepctively The modern-day name of the pass Vratnik wasadopted in 9830899830979830921048626 and just means Gate
Today the pass is almost deserted as most drivers prefer to avoid thenarrow potholed road which zigzags through a thick forest Even insummer when you stop at the highest part of the pass to look for theKamchiyas source you will most probably find the place empty
Actually empty means empty of tourists The forest around thespring is the temporary home of of some Gypsies families dealing with lumberjacking and mushroom-pickingTheir ragged tents madeof old blankets and sheets of nylon are all over the place as are theheaps of household garbage
The scenery becomes almost surreal when mist descends drenchingthe forest in white and leaving only the dark trunks of the closesttrees visible
The Luda Kamchiyas spring is east of the road in a depressionhidden by tall trees Spectacular it is not as it is fed into a waterfountain The water fountain inscription however is grandiose Tothose fallen for freedom Glorify their sacred feat you unendinglyflowing Kamchiya
There is some justification for this Only 1048626 kilometres east of thespring is Aglikina Polyana or Aglikas Meadow where the Bulgarianhayduti or 983089983097th Century rebels used to meet They lived in themountains as far away from the Ottoman authorities as possibleexcept for when they attacked and robbed Ottoman convoys at the pass
Aglikina Polyana is heavily represented in Bulgarian heroic folklorehas a protected area status and hosts a regular folklore meeting
You can visit Aglikina Polyana from here but in any case be sure to
kneel at the water fountain which is the source of the Luda Kamchiyaand take a drink It is not that often that you can drink the cool clear waters of a river at its source
Top Semi-wild horses roam freely
around the Vratnik Pass
Bottom The beginnings of a 200-
kilometre Luda Kamchiya river
46 47
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Remote village pro983158idesunspoilt old-time atmosphere great ood by Violeta Rozova photography by Anthony Georgieff
Rural tourism in Bulgaria was barely known 1048626983088 years ago butin the early 1048626983088983088983088s it experienced an EU-funded boom But in thelate 1048626983088983088983088s the still ongoing economic crisis hit and now manyguesthouses are struggling to survive with the decreased numberof visitors In the western fringes of the Rhodope however is atraditional village which is still one of the best places for ruraltourism in Bulgaria
Leshten close to Gotse Delchev actually invented rural tourismin Bulgaria Since the mid-983089983097983097983088s it has been the first choice for anescape from the big city for all those interested in clean air delicioushealthy food and genuinely and intelligently preserved architecture
Truth to tell Leshten is hardly a village nowadays Only 983089983088 peoplelive there and most of them are septuagenarian In the 983089983097th and thefirst half of the 1048626983088th centuries however Leshten was a bustling placehome to more than 983093983088983088 people Unlike the inhabitants of nearbyKovachevitsa who built three- and four-storey mini fortresses to
protect their riches the people of Leshten were poor They had lessto lose and so they built houses of only two floors The ground level was for the livestock and the one above for the families
48 49
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Top A statue of two icecream
cones
Bottom The Buzludzha complex is
famous for its ghastly atmosphere
32
4
Kovachevitsa and Leshten both began to lose inhabitants at a greatrate after the Communist coup of 983089983097983092983092 when industrialisation andforced collectivisation striped the villagers of their livelihood andforced them to seek jobs in cities Kovachevitsa as a much grander village attracted the attention of Bulgarian film-makers in the 983089983097983095983088sand experienced a wave of new settlers mostly Sofia intellectuals who bought holiday homes there
Leshten was rediscovered much laterIn the mid-983089983097983097983088s a couple from Sofia found themselves in the
village with its ghostly and abandoned old houses They fell in love with Leshten as it had an unexpected advantage over crowd-pulling
Kovachevitsa Kovachevitsa is deep in the mountains and does nothave much of a vistaLeshten however has a marvellous view over the valley of the
Mesta River with the blue slopes of the Pirin defining the horizon983121uite unusually for the mid-983089983097983097983088s when everyone was either
leaving Bulgaria or flocking to Sofia where job prospects were betterthe couple moved to Leshten They bought some of the houses andturned them into holiday lets while preserving as much as possiblethe traditional architecture and opened one of the best restaurants
in Bulgaria This was in the long-disused local school next to thebeautiful and tiny St Paraskeva Church which dates from 9830899830963983094 and iscovered inside with primitive but captivating murals
1
1 The key to your room Each
detail in the 200-year old Leshten
houses has been preserved
2 3 The St Paraskeva Church
was built in 1837 and has been
listed as a local monument of
culture
4 Having breakfast while enjoying
the view to the Mesta Valley and
the Pirin is one of Leshtens many
pleasures
50 51
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The food in the tavern was locally sourced long before this became
fashionable Almost everything on the menu comes from the areafrom the wild berry juice and the thick sheeprsquos yoghurt to thetraditional egg noodles and the meatballs which are prepared not ofmince but of finely chopped meat
The restored traditional houses are on a par with the foods qualityIntelligently preserved yet having mod cons they smell of ageing wood geraniums and of woollen rugs warmed by the sun The wallsare whitewashed white linen curtains with embroidery shade the windows and the slightly crooked beams of the floor squeak quietly
under your feetRecently however more people decided to profit on Leshten
More houses were turned into hotels and as the competition grewone night the old school caught fire and burned to the ground Thetavern was re-established in a newer building with a beautiful viewof the Mesta Valley The food is still gorgeous the best the Rhodopeand the people living in these beautiful mountains can give you
This series of articles is supported by theAmerica for Bulgaria Foundation The
statements and opinions expressed herein
are those of the authors and do not necessarily
reflect the opinion of the America for Bulgaria
Foundation and its partners
1 Stone was used extensively in
building the houses of Leshten
and even the roofs are f rom rock
The technique was popular in
Bulgaria until the beginning of
the 20th Century but was later
abandoned It has been enjoying
a revival in recent years as surge
of interest in eco tourism has
brought it back to fashion
2 Leshten is a good basefor exploring of the Western
Rhodope with traditional villages
like Kovachevitsa and Dolen and
pristine wild nature all around
3 Fresco from St Paraskeva
Church with a didactic scene
advertising the advantages of
pious life
3
1
2
52 53
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Case study of senior Communist offi cialElena Lagadinova reveals unexpectedaspects of superpower confrontation
by Kristen Ghodsee all photographs courtesy of the author
One of the great ironies of the Cold War is that the twosuperpowers often championed issues that they cared little aboutin practice The East bloc defended the social rights of the worldrsquos workers while treating their own citizens like indentured servantsThe United States campaigned for political freedoms abroad whilebrutally oppressing or marginalising their own African-Americanand Native American populations at home Any rhetoric thatcould be deployed against the enemy became a weapon in the widerideological battle
Today historians and social scientists are studying the internationallegacies of these Cold War rivalries over social and politicalrights Whether it is labor conventions at the International LaborOrganisation political self-determination for previously colonisedcountries or the end to state-sanctioned racial discrimination in theUnited States or in apartheid-era South Africa the general scholarlyconsensus is that ordinary people ndash whether in the capitalist
Communist or developing worlds ndash benefitted from superpowercompetition An unintended consequence of American and Sovietgrandstanding was often real social progress
1
2
2
4
54
6 7
1 Elena The Amazon
Lagadinova in 1945
2 With Valentina Tereshkova
3 Delivering a speech in 1970
4 With the US activist Angela
Davis in 1972
5 Hosting a school for African
women leaders in Sofia in 1982
6 Lagadinova (left) with an
young Irina Bokova (right) at
the Third UN Conference on
Women in Nairobi in 1985
7 In Razlog with Kristen
Ghodsee in 2013
3
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Tousands o Hassidim gatherin Ukrainian city to celebrate
Jewish New Year by Dimana Trankova photography by Anthony Georgieff
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Dusty and drab devoid of any charm unless you count the 983089983096thCentury Sofyivka Park and the Georgian cheese pastries at the busstation the Ukrainian city of Uman would be a strong contender forthe most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe
But it is not the most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe ndash atleast not for a couple of days each year when it gets filled with joyfulcrowds of Ultra religious Jews flown in from as far as Canada BritainIsrael and Australia to celebrate the Jewish New Year usually inSeptember They all converge at Pushkin Street take out their heavyluggage and drag it to their rented rooms in small houses and tallSocialist apartment blocks Music is booming the smell of cookedfood comes from the tents of the openair eateries Happy people inthe streets greet each other smiling from ear to ear when they meetand embrace some old friend
Uman a city of roughly 983097983088983088983088983088 residents in western Ukraine is thefocus of pilgrimage for Hasidic Jews who come here to celebrate atthe tomb of one of their greatest spiritual leaders
Rebbe Nachman (9830899830959830951048626-983089983096983089983088) of Breslov was the great-grandson ofBaal Shem Tov the founder of Hasidism a conservative movementthat spread among the Ashkenazi Jews in Eastern Europe He showedthe first signs of having a special connection with the divine as earlyas 983089983095 and spent the next decades of his life moving around the areaof what is now western Ukraine and eastern Poland attractingfollowers Rebbe Nachmans travels even brought him to Palestine where he met and talked with prominent Jewish sages and scholars
In 9830899830969830881048626 he settled in Bratslav (as Breslov is more commonlyknown) and announced the creation of a new movement ofHasidism the Breslov Hasidism
When pilgrimage to Rebbe
Nachmans grave resumed in
the early 1990s the locals ofUman were amazed by the Rosh
Hashanah antics of visiting Jews
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Rebbe Nachman was incredibly popular but not everyone
liked him because of some of his more radical ideas one of whichencouraged people to feel free to find spiritual leaders for themselvesand to break with the tradition of the hereditary Hasidic dynastiesRebbe Nachman also encouraged the individual search for the divineHis teachings spread during tumultuous times The beginning of the983089983097th Century saw the spread of democratic ideas across Europe andfor the first time in centuries Jews enjoyed ndash at least theoretically ndashequal rights Many chose fuller integration into the modernEuropean society but for more conservative Jews these changesthreatened the foundation of their communities The teachingsof Rebbe Nachman were a sort of reaction to this trend blendingtradition with more individual freedom
Whether Rebbe Nachman thought of himself as a Messiah is stilla matter of dispute Some phrases from his teachings would makegreat Facebook quotes in todays era of soul-searching and positivethinking such as If you believe that you can damage then believethat you can fixrdquo or You are never given an obstacle you cannotovercome
In Breslov Rebbe Nachman saw his movement flourish andgrow with great crowds of followers assembling for feasts like RoshHashanah Chanukah or Shavuot when they eagerly listened to histeachings In 983089983096983089983088 however he had to move
Consumption had been devouring the still young Rebbe Nachmanfor some time and then his house was destroyed by fire He movedto nearby Uman a town of great significance for the local Jewishcommunity In 983089983095983094983096 about 1048626983088983088983088983088 Jews from Uman along withmany Poles and Uniate Ukrainians were killed by the UkrainianHaidamak rebels who had risen against the then Polish-LithuanianCommonwealth
1 Selling Rebbe Nachman-
themed techno music on Pushkin
Street
2 For many Breslov Hasidim the
pilgrimage is also an opportunity
to meet old friends and make
new ones
3 Rebbe Nachman is the
descendant of Baal Shem Tov the
founder of Hasidism a branch
of Orthodox Judaism wheremysticism is at the foundation of
spirituality
3
1
2
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Over the following two decades the Rosh Hashanah gatheringin Uman became ever stronger On average about 983089983088983088983088983088-983089983093983088983088983088Hasidim come to celebrate each year The atmosphere is festive in thestreets and tense around the grave of Rebbe Nachman and peopleare generally friendly even when they notice the odd tourist in thecrowd Many of the pilgrims get tipsy and dance to rave and rock
music booming from stalls gardens and balconies Children runto and fro carrying presents bought from the ramshackle openairmarket
There are signs however that these people are not the average partygoers The song lyrics are devoted to Rebbe Nachman Umanand Rosh Hashanah Shofars howl and the streets are lined withbarbers shaving the heads of pilgrims in the traditional way The posters on the walls announce the scheduled flights to and fromUman and the crowd is predominantly male
Sometimes there is violence Many locals are not happy with the pilgrims and the fact that many Hasidim have bought propertiesaround Pushkin Street introducing their very specific lifestyle Thereare complaints about the noise and the rubbish and the level ofsecurity 1048626983088983089983088 is remembered for several sometimes bloody fightsbetween locals and pilgrims Overall though visiting Uman for RoshHashanah can turn into the experience of a lifetime even for people with only a faint interest in Judaism The event is an immersion in abygone era right amid the post-Soviet reality of Ukraine
In 1048626983088983089983092 Rosh Hashanah begins at sunset on 1048626983092 September andends at nightfall of 1048626983094 September
Top After decades of
prosecution pilgrimage in Uman
is again safe and many children
mingle in the crowd
Bottom A Jewish boy tries his
brand new plastic gun bought
as a New Years present froma makeshift openair market in
Uman
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82
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150 984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143Stara Zagora50 Han Asparuh St Zagorka lakephone 042 985 555 042 985 555
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983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150983123983156983137983154983137 983130983137983143983151983154983137
Липи прави улици и дружелюбна
атмосфера в един от най-интересните градове на България
текст Димитър Ивановфотография Антони Георгиев
by Dimitar Ivanovphotography by Anthony Georgieff
Lindens straight streets and
fiendly atmosphere in one o themost interesting cities o Bulgaria
984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143984097984130984112984128984112 984087984112984115984126984128984112
Когато се чудите накъде да тръгнете в първите топлидни на есента Стара Загора е едно от най-добрите ре-шения Отдалечен на 10486263983088 км по магистрала Тракияградът е изключително близо за онези които живеят вСофия и предлага много повече спокойствие и зелени-на от столицата дружелюбна атмосфера приятни заве-дения и исторически и природни забележителностикоито да запълнят кратката ви ваканция
Стара Загора е един от най-старите градове в ЕвропаПървите хора се заселили тук около VII-VI хилядоле-тие пр Хр Около IV впрХр на мястото на съвремен-на Стара Загора се появява град на траките известен с
When you are wondering where to go for the first warm days of the autumn Stara Zagora is one of the bestsolutions About 10486263983088 km on the Trakiya Motorway thecity is close enough for those living in Sofia and offersmore serenity and greenery than the capital The city hasalso nice cafeacutes and restaurants and enough historical andnature sites to fill a short holiday
Stara Zagora is one of the oldest cities in EuropeThe fist people settled in the area around the 983095-983094thmillennia BC Around the 983092th Century BC on the placeof modern Stara Zagora appeared a settlement of theThracians which was called Beroe It was conquered by
phone 042 985 555 042 985 555reservationshotelstarazagoraeu
wwwhotelstarazagoraeu
The fi ve-star Park Hotel Stara Zagora is situated on the bank of the romantic Zagorka Lake in Stara Zagora
Hotel with 31 luxurious rooms two luxurious apartments and one VIP apartment
State-of-the-art SPA centre with swimming pool jacuzzi fitness hall steam bath sauna
Turkish bath and massage room
Six conference rooms with capacity between seven and 250 people equipped with multimedia
and other presentational technique and tools Orfeida Restaurant with amazing interior and a capacity for up to 150 people plus a summer and a winter garden
Park for biking fishing boating jogging and other sports and activities
All dreams lead toPark Hotel Stara Zagora
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
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where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
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24 25
by Stamen Manolov
High Beam is a series of articles initiated by Vagabond Magazine with the generous support
of the America for Bulgaria Foundation that aims to provide details and background of places
cultural entities events personalities and facts of life that are sometimes difficult to understandfor the outsider in the Balkans The ultimate aim is the preservation of Bulgarias cultural heritage ndash
including but not limited to archaeological cultural and ethnic diversity
Email your answers toeditorialvagabondbg
and you can win a copy o
Wall-to-WallPoetry of Europe Vagabonds guide
to the poetry walls o Soia
This is possibly the biggest Communist-era monstrosity in
Bulgaria outshining even the Flying Saucer congress hall-cum-temple at Buzludzha It was erected in 983089983097983096983089 as part of amegalomaniacal project masterminded by Todor Zhivkovsdaughter to mark the 9830893983088983088th anniversary of the foundation ofthe Bulgaria state an euphemism for pumping up nationalismNow at least 3983088983088983088983088 tons of concrete stand exposed to theelements above a large Bulgarian city but unlike Buzludzhathis monument has not been abandoned The local city councileven charges entry fees to let you go into it A particular
favourite to Japanese and Israeli tourists (but for completelydifferent reasons)Where in Bulgaria are you
copy A n t h o n y G e o r g i e ff
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26 27
by Bozhidara Georgieva photography by Anthony Georgieff
Former monastery prisonbecomes tourist attraction
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30 31
This publicity did not have any impact on the island itself In the983089983097983094983088s Bolshevik Island became a place of recreation for the artisticcircles of Burgas but the buildings fell into disrepair and soon theonly thing still intact on the island was the lighthouse The currentlighthouse which was supplied with electricity as late as the 983089983097983094983088sdates back to 983089983096983096983097 with a major facelift in 983089983097983089983092
After the democratic changes of 983089983097983096983097 Bolshevik Island became StAnastasia Island once more The regular boat services however were
discontinued and decay overtook the former monastic and prisonbuildings St Anastasia became a ghostly place which a handful of visitors per year could reach only if they hired a fisherman to bringthem to the island A basic tavern provided even more basic foodand the more adventurous slept in the dilapidated rooms of themonastery
The desolation and decay of St Anastasia are captured withdocumentary precision in Kamen Kalevs 1048626983088983089983089 feature movie he
Island
In 1048626983088983089983092 however the Burgas City Council completed a majorreconstruction project on the island The monastery buildingshave been restored and renovated there is better accommodationfor visitors who decide to spend the night on the island and therestaurant has been improved and the tourist infrastructure includesa small museum and a medieval pharmacy where local herbs aregrown
Reaching the island is easier with regular boats leaving several timesa day from the renovated Burgas Pier The crossing takes under an
hour and makes for a lovely day trip out of Burgas The St AnastasiaIslands turbulent history seems to have been provided with a happyending
1 The lighthouse of St Anastasia
Island was built in the 1880s by a
French company but the tower is
from 1912 In the waters nearby
stands one of the geological
curiosities of the island The
Mushroom rock
2 The regular tourist boats to StAnastasia start from the renovated
pier of Burgas
3 Founded in the 16th Century
the monastery and its church
suffered heavily from pirate
raids and were renovated at the
beginning of the 19th Century In
1923 the monastery was turned
into a prison
4 Rusting remains from periods
of desolation Today St Anastasiais a welcoming place with a nice
restaurant and a multimedia
museum
1 3
4
2
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32
Magical Rhodope site tells storieso Dionysus Alexander the Great
and Augustus
by Bozhidara Georgieva photography by Anthony Georgieff
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Covering more than 983093 square kilometres Perperikon is the biggestmegalithic site in the Balkans
The first people arrived here 983096983088983088983088 years ago and carved the rocksso they could fill the crevices with fragments of pots as offerings tothe unknown deities or spirits they believed in Then these people
disappeared from Perperikon After a hiatus of about 983089983088983088983088 years atthe end of the 983093th and the beginning of the 983092th millennia BC thehill again became the focal point of religious activity In the 983089983096th-9830891048626thcenturies BC the sanctuary was already so extensive and famous thatartefacts belonging to the Minoan and Mycenaean civilisations arenow found there
Perperikon experienced a decline in the 983092th-983089st centuries BCbut when the Romans took over Thrace activity resumed and newbuildings adorned the hill In the 983094th Century however Christianity
took over and the sanctuary was abandoned Unlike other pagansacred places in the Balkans Perperikon did not fall completelysilent
Christians moved into the empty shrines built churches over themand turned Perperikon into the stronghold of local bishops It allcame to an end in 98308939830941048626 when the Ottomans invaded and people leftPerperikon for good leaving the hill to nature which soon swallowedup the remains of the churches and the Thracian shrines
The site was rediscovered by archaeologists in the 1048626983088th Century
but Perperikon only became a household name in the early 1048626983088983088983088s when excavations started again and the theory that it had belonged tothe Oracle of Dionysus was promoted as a proven fact
Previous spread Remains of cult
pits and graves in the bedrock
Perperikon was built on solid rock
so the bases of each building and
even the graves were hewn in
the stone
Deciphering the traces in the
bedrock is not easy Some believe
that the pits covering the surface
of Perperikon were only for ritual
purposes Actually most weremade to support columns of
buildings or to store food and
liquids
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Major river breaks outin Stara Planina heading
towards Black Seaby Minka Vazkresenska photography by Anthony Georgieff
How to define the source of a river is often a tough question toanswer Is it where water springs from the ground for the first timeor is it the place where two or more streams merge into a larger flowEven the source of the Danube Europes largest river is contentiousat least three springs claim to be the beginnings of the mighty river
The Kamchiya River is no exception Theoretically it is only983092983094 kilometres long and flows through northeastern Bulgaria before joining the Black Sea at a particularly beautiful and terrifyinglymosquito-infested forest With its major tributary the Golyama orGrand Kamchiya the river is 1048626983092983092 kilometres long making it the983096th longest river in Bulgaria The official source of the GolyamaKamchiya ndash and of the Kamchiya ndash is in the Lisa Planina at analtitude of about 983095983089983088 metres above sea level
But there is a spot high up in the Stara Planina on the border ofits central and eastern parts which has gained popularity as the truesource of the Kamchiya It is where the second major tributaryof the river confusingly called the Luda or Crazy Kamchiya springsup as a tiny stream runs eastwards for 1048626983088983088 kilometres and joins theGolyama Kamchiya The Luda Kamchiya is the 983089983088th longest river inBulgaria
The popularity of the Luda Kamchiyas spring as the genuinebeginning of the Kamchiya River (are you already confused)
is probably due to its location It is in a pleasant and historicallysignificant spot the Vratnik Pass connecting Veliko Tarnovo andElena to the north with Sliven south of the Stara Planina
44 45
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Situated at an altitude of 983089983088983097983095 metres above sea level and being 983089983088kilometres long the Vratnik Pass used to be a main route through themountain The Romans built a road along it and in the Middle Agesa strong fort guarded it a frequent site of battles between Bulgariansand Byzantines The importance of the pass was mirrored in its nameZhelezni Vrata and Demir Kapiya mean Iron Gates in Bulgarian andTurkish resepctively The modern-day name of the pass Vratnik wasadopted in 9830899830979830921048626 and just means Gate
Today the pass is almost deserted as most drivers prefer to avoid thenarrow potholed road which zigzags through a thick forest Even insummer when you stop at the highest part of the pass to look for theKamchiyas source you will most probably find the place empty
Actually empty means empty of tourists The forest around thespring is the temporary home of of some Gypsies families dealing with lumberjacking and mushroom-pickingTheir ragged tents madeof old blankets and sheets of nylon are all over the place as are theheaps of household garbage
The scenery becomes almost surreal when mist descends drenchingthe forest in white and leaving only the dark trunks of the closesttrees visible
The Luda Kamchiyas spring is east of the road in a depressionhidden by tall trees Spectacular it is not as it is fed into a waterfountain The water fountain inscription however is grandiose Tothose fallen for freedom Glorify their sacred feat you unendinglyflowing Kamchiya
There is some justification for this Only 1048626 kilometres east of thespring is Aglikina Polyana or Aglikas Meadow where the Bulgarianhayduti or 983089983097th Century rebels used to meet They lived in themountains as far away from the Ottoman authorities as possibleexcept for when they attacked and robbed Ottoman convoys at the pass
Aglikina Polyana is heavily represented in Bulgarian heroic folklorehas a protected area status and hosts a regular folklore meeting
You can visit Aglikina Polyana from here but in any case be sure to
kneel at the water fountain which is the source of the Luda Kamchiyaand take a drink It is not that often that you can drink the cool clear waters of a river at its source
Top Semi-wild horses roam freely
around the Vratnik Pass
Bottom The beginnings of a 200-
kilometre Luda Kamchiya river
46 47
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Remote village pro983158idesunspoilt old-time atmosphere great ood by Violeta Rozova photography by Anthony Georgieff
Rural tourism in Bulgaria was barely known 1048626983088 years ago butin the early 1048626983088983088983088s it experienced an EU-funded boom But in thelate 1048626983088983088983088s the still ongoing economic crisis hit and now manyguesthouses are struggling to survive with the decreased numberof visitors In the western fringes of the Rhodope however is atraditional village which is still one of the best places for ruraltourism in Bulgaria
Leshten close to Gotse Delchev actually invented rural tourismin Bulgaria Since the mid-983089983097983097983088s it has been the first choice for anescape from the big city for all those interested in clean air delicioushealthy food and genuinely and intelligently preserved architecture
Truth to tell Leshten is hardly a village nowadays Only 983089983088 peoplelive there and most of them are septuagenarian In the 983089983097th and thefirst half of the 1048626983088th centuries however Leshten was a bustling placehome to more than 983093983088983088 people Unlike the inhabitants of nearbyKovachevitsa who built three- and four-storey mini fortresses to
protect their riches the people of Leshten were poor They had lessto lose and so they built houses of only two floors The ground level was for the livestock and the one above for the families
48 49
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Top A statue of two icecream
cones
Bottom The Buzludzha complex is
famous for its ghastly atmosphere
32
4
Kovachevitsa and Leshten both began to lose inhabitants at a greatrate after the Communist coup of 983089983097983092983092 when industrialisation andforced collectivisation striped the villagers of their livelihood andforced them to seek jobs in cities Kovachevitsa as a much grander village attracted the attention of Bulgarian film-makers in the 983089983097983095983088sand experienced a wave of new settlers mostly Sofia intellectuals who bought holiday homes there
Leshten was rediscovered much laterIn the mid-983089983097983097983088s a couple from Sofia found themselves in the
village with its ghostly and abandoned old houses They fell in love with Leshten as it had an unexpected advantage over crowd-pulling
Kovachevitsa Kovachevitsa is deep in the mountains and does nothave much of a vistaLeshten however has a marvellous view over the valley of the
Mesta River with the blue slopes of the Pirin defining the horizon983121uite unusually for the mid-983089983097983097983088s when everyone was either
leaving Bulgaria or flocking to Sofia where job prospects were betterthe couple moved to Leshten They bought some of the houses andturned them into holiday lets while preserving as much as possiblethe traditional architecture and opened one of the best restaurants
in Bulgaria This was in the long-disused local school next to thebeautiful and tiny St Paraskeva Church which dates from 9830899830963983094 and iscovered inside with primitive but captivating murals
1
1 The key to your room Each
detail in the 200-year old Leshten
houses has been preserved
2 3 The St Paraskeva Church
was built in 1837 and has been
listed as a local monument of
culture
4 Having breakfast while enjoying
the view to the Mesta Valley and
the Pirin is one of Leshtens many
pleasures
50 51
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The food in the tavern was locally sourced long before this became
fashionable Almost everything on the menu comes from the areafrom the wild berry juice and the thick sheeprsquos yoghurt to thetraditional egg noodles and the meatballs which are prepared not ofmince but of finely chopped meat
The restored traditional houses are on a par with the foods qualityIntelligently preserved yet having mod cons they smell of ageing wood geraniums and of woollen rugs warmed by the sun The wallsare whitewashed white linen curtains with embroidery shade the windows and the slightly crooked beams of the floor squeak quietly
under your feetRecently however more people decided to profit on Leshten
More houses were turned into hotels and as the competition grewone night the old school caught fire and burned to the ground Thetavern was re-established in a newer building with a beautiful viewof the Mesta Valley The food is still gorgeous the best the Rhodopeand the people living in these beautiful mountains can give you
This series of articles is supported by theAmerica for Bulgaria Foundation The
statements and opinions expressed herein
are those of the authors and do not necessarily
reflect the opinion of the America for Bulgaria
Foundation and its partners
1 Stone was used extensively in
building the houses of Leshten
and even the roofs are f rom rock
The technique was popular in
Bulgaria until the beginning of
the 20th Century but was later
abandoned It has been enjoying
a revival in recent years as surge
of interest in eco tourism has
brought it back to fashion
2 Leshten is a good basefor exploring of the Western
Rhodope with traditional villages
like Kovachevitsa and Dolen and
pristine wild nature all around
3 Fresco from St Paraskeva
Church with a didactic scene
advertising the advantages of
pious life
3
1
2
52 53
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Case study of senior Communist offi cialElena Lagadinova reveals unexpectedaspects of superpower confrontation
by Kristen Ghodsee all photographs courtesy of the author
One of the great ironies of the Cold War is that the twosuperpowers often championed issues that they cared little aboutin practice The East bloc defended the social rights of the worldrsquos workers while treating their own citizens like indentured servantsThe United States campaigned for political freedoms abroad whilebrutally oppressing or marginalising their own African-Americanand Native American populations at home Any rhetoric thatcould be deployed against the enemy became a weapon in the widerideological battle
Today historians and social scientists are studying the internationallegacies of these Cold War rivalries over social and politicalrights Whether it is labor conventions at the International LaborOrganisation political self-determination for previously colonisedcountries or the end to state-sanctioned racial discrimination in theUnited States or in apartheid-era South Africa the general scholarlyconsensus is that ordinary people ndash whether in the capitalist
Communist or developing worlds ndash benefitted from superpowercompetition An unintended consequence of American and Sovietgrandstanding was often real social progress
1
2
2
4
54
6 7
1 Elena The Amazon
Lagadinova in 1945
2 With Valentina Tereshkova
3 Delivering a speech in 1970
4 With the US activist Angela
Davis in 1972
5 Hosting a school for African
women leaders in Sofia in 1982
6 Lagadinova (left) with an
young Irina Bokova (right) at
the Third UN Conference on
Women in Nairobi in 1985
7 In Razlog with Kristen
Ghodsee in 2013
3
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Tousands o Hassidim gatherin Ukrainian city to celebrate
Jewish New Year by Dimana Trankova photography by Anthony Georgieff
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Dusty and drab devoid of any charm unless you count the 983089983096thCentury Sofyivka Park and the Georgian cheese pastries at the busstation the Ukrainian city of Uman would be a strong contender forthe most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe
But it is not the most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe ndash atleast not for a couple of days each year when it gets filled with joyfulcrowds of Ultra religious Jews flown in from as far as Canada BritainIsrael and Australia to celebrate the Jewish New Year usually inSeptember They all converge at Pushkin Street take out their heavyluggage and drag it to their rented rooms in small houses and tallSocialist apartment blocks Music is booming the smell of cookedfood comes from the tents of the openair eateries Happy people inthe streets greet each other smiling from ear to ear when they meetand embrace some old friend
Uman a city of roughly 983097983088983088983088983088 residents in western Ukraine is thefocus of pilgrimage for Hasidic Jews who come here to celebrate atthe tomb of one of their greatest spiritual leaders
Rebbe Nachman (9830899830959830951048626-983089983096983089983088) of Breslov was the great-grandson ofBaal Shem Tov the founder of Hasidism a conservative movementthat spread among the Ashkenazi Jews in Eastern Europe He showedthe first signs of having a special connection with the divine as earlyas 983089983095 and spent the next decades of his life moving around the areaof what is now western Ukraine and eastern Poland attractingfollowers Rebbe Nachmans travels even brought him to Palestine where he met and talked with prominent Jewish sages and scholars
In 9830899830969830881048626 he settled in Bratslav (as Breslov is more commonlyknown) and announced the creation of a new movement ofHasidism the Breslov Hasidism
When pilgrimage to Rebbe
Nachmans grave resumed in
the early 1990s the locals ofUman were amazed by the Rosh
Hashanah antics of visiting Jews
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Rebbe Nachman was incredibly popular but not everyone
liked him because of some of his more radical ideas one of whichencouraged people to feel free to find spiritual leaders for themselvesand to break with the tradition of the hereditary Hasidic dynastiesRebbe Nachman also encouraged the individual search for the divineHis teachings spread during tumultuous times The beginning of the983089983097th Century saw the spread of democratic ideas across Europe andfor the first time in centuries Jews enjoyed ndash at least theoretically ndashequal rights Many chose fuller integration into the modernEuropean society but for more conservative Jews these changesthreatened the foundation of their communities The teachingsof Rebbe Nachman were a sort of reaction to this trend blendingtradition with more individual freedom
Whether Rebbe Nachman thought of himself as a Messiah is stilla matter of dispute Some phrases from his teachings would makegreat Facebook quotes in todays era of soul-searching and positivethinking such as If you believe that you can damage then believethat you can fixrdquo or You are never given an obstacle you cannotovercome
In Breslov Rebbe Nachman saw his movement flourish andgrow with great crowds of followers assembling for feasts like RoshHashanah Chanukah or Shavuot when they eagerly listened to histeachings In 983089983096983089983088 however he had to move
Consumption had been devouring the still young Rebbe Nachmanfor some time and then his house was destroyed by fire He movedto nearby Uman a town of great significance for the local Jewishcommunity In 983089983095983094983096 about 1048626983088983088983088983088 Jews from Uman along withmany Poles and Uniate Ukrainians were killed by the UkrainianHaidamak rebels who had risen against the then Polish-LithuanianCommonwealth
1 Selling Rebbe Nachman-
themed techno music on Pushkin
Street
2 For many Breslov Hasidim the
pilgrimage is also an opportunity
to meet old friends and make
new ones
3 Rebbe Nachman is the
descendant of Baal Shem Tov the
founder of Hasidism a branch
of Orthodox Judaism wheremysticism is at the foundation of
spirituality
3
1
2
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Over the following two decades the Rosh Hashanah gatheringin Uman became ever stronger On average about 983089983088983088983088983088-983089983093983088983088983088Hasidim come to celebrate each year The atmosphere is festive in thestreets and tense around the grave of Rebbe Nachman and peopleare generally friendly even when they notice the odd tourist in thecrowd Many of the pilgrims get tipsy and dance to rave and rock
music booming from stalls gardens and balconies Children runto and fro carrying presents bought from the ramshackle openairmarket
There are signs however that these people are not the average partygoers The song lyrics are devoted to Rebbe Nachman Umanand Rosh Hashanah Shofars howl and the streets are lined withbarbers shaving the heads of pilgrims in the traditional way The posters on the walls announce the scheduled flights to and fromUman and the crowd is predominantly male
Sometimes there is violence Many locals are not happy with the pilgrims and the fact that many Hasidim have bought propertiesaround Pushkin Street introducing their very specific lifestyle Thereare complaints about the noise and the rubbish and the level ofsecurity 1048626983088983089983088 is remembered for several sometimes bloody fightsbetween locals and pilgrims Overall though visiting Uman for RoshHashanah can turn into the experience of a lifetime even for people with only a faint interest in Judaism The event is an immersion in abygone era right amid the post-Soviet reality of Ukraine
In 1048626983088983089983092 Rosh Hashanah begins at sunset on 1048626983092 September andends at nightfall of 1048626983094 September
Top After decades of
prosecution pilgrimage in Uman
is again safe and many children
mingle in the crowd
Bottom A Jewish boy tries his
brand new plastic gun bought
as a New Years present froma makeshift openair market in
Uman
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82
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150 984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143Stara Zagora50 Han Asparuh St Zagorka lakephone 042 985 555 042 985 555
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983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150983123983156983137983154983137 983130983137983143983151983154983137
Липи прави улици и дружелюбна
атмосфера в един от най-интересните градове на България
текст Димитър Ивановфотография Антони Георгиев
by Dimitar Ivanovphotography by Anthony Georgieff
Lindens straight streets and
fiendly atmosphere in one o themost interesting cities o Bulgaria
984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143984097984130984112984128984112 984087984112984115984126984128984112
Когато се чудите накъде да тръгнете в първите топлидни на есента Стара Загора е едно от най-добрите ре-шения Отдалечен на 10486263983088 км по магистрала Тракияградът е изключително близо за онези които живеят вСофия и предлага много повече спокойствие и зелени-на от столицата дружелюбна атмосфера приятни заве-дения и исторически и природни забележителностикоито да запълнят кратката ви ваканция
Стара Загора е един от най-старите градове в ЕвропаПървите хора се заселили тук около VII-VI хилядоле-тие пр Хр Около IV впрХр на мястото на съвремен-на Стара Загора се появява град на траките известен с
When you are wondering where to go for the first warm days of the autumn Stara Zagora is one of the bestsolutions About 10486263983088 km on the Trakiya Motorway thecity is close enough for those living in Sofia and offersmore serenity and greenery than the capital The city hasalso nice cafeacutes and restaurants and enough historical andnature sites to fill a short holiday
Stara Zagora is one of the oldest cities in EuropeThe fist people settled in the area around the 983095-983094thmillennia BC Around the 983092th Century BC on the placeof modern Stara Zagora appeared a settlement of theThracians which was called Beroe It was conquered by
phone 042 985 555 042 985 555reservationshotelstarazagoraeu
wwwhotelstarazagoraeu
The fi ve-star Park Hotel Stara Zagora is situated on the bank of the romantic Zagorka Lake in Stara Zagora
Hotel with 31 luxurious rooms two luxurious apartments and one VIP apartment
State-of-the-art SPA centre with swimming pool jacuzzi fitness hall steam bath sauna
Turkish bath and massage room
Six conference rooms with capacity between seven and 250 people equipped with multimedia
and other presentational technique and tools Orfeida Restaurant with amazing interior and a capacity for up to 150 people plus a summer and a winter garden
Park for biking fishing boating jogging and other sports and activities
All dreams lead toPark Hotel Stara Zagora
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
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where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
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24 25
by Stamen Manolov
High Beam is a series of articles initiated by Vagabond Magazine with the generous support
of the America for Bulgaria Foundation that aims to provide details and background of places
cultural entities events personalities and facts of life that are sometimes difficult to understandfor the outsider in the Balkans The ultimate aim is the preservation of Bulgarias cultural heritage ndash
including but not limited to archaeological cultural and ethnic diversity
Email your answers toeditorialvagabondbg
and you can win a copy o
Wall-to-WallPoetry of Europe Vagabonds guide
to the poetry walls o Soia
This is possibly the biggest Communist-era monstrosity in
Bulgaria outshining even the Flying Saucer congress hall-cum-temple at Buzludzha It was erected in 983089983097983096983089 as part of amegalomaniacal project masterminded by Todor Zhivkovsdaughter to mark the 9830893983088983088th anniversary of the foundation ofthe Bulgaria state an euphemism for pumping up nationalismNow at least 3983088983088983088983088 tons of concrete stand exposed to theelements above a large Bulgarian city but unlike Buzludzhathis monument has not been abandoned The local city councileven charges entry fees to let you go into it A particular
favourite to Japanese and Israeli tourists (but for completelydifferent reasons)Where in Bulgaria are you
copy A n t h o n y G e o r g i e ff
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26 27
by Bozhidara Georgieva photography by Anthony Georgieff
Former monastery prisonbecomes tourist attraction
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This publicity did not have any impact on the island itself In the983089983097983094983088s Bolshevik Island became a place of recreation for the artisticcircles of Burgas but the buildings fell into disrepair and soon theonly thing still intact on the island was the lighthouse The currentlighthouse which was supplied with electricity as late as the 983089983097983094983088sdates back to 983089983096983096983097 with a major facelift in 983089983097983089983092
After the democratic changes of 983089983097983096983097 Bolshevik Island became StAnastasia Island once more The regular boat services however were
discontinued and decay overtook the former monastic and prisonbuildings St Anastasia became a ghostly place which a handful of visitors per year could reach only if they hired a fisherman to bringthem to the island A basic tavern provided even more basic foodand the more adventurous slept in the dilapidated rooms of themonastery
The desolation and decay of St Anastasia are captured withdocumentary precision in Kamen Kalevs 1048626983088983089983089 feature movie he
Island
In 1048626983088983089983092 however the Burgas City Council completed a majorreconstruction project on the island The monastery buildingshave been restored and renovated there is better accommodationfor visitors who decide to spend the night on the island and therestaurant has been improved and the tourist infrastructure includesa small museum and a medieval pharmacy where local herbs aregrown
Reaching the island is easier with regular boats leaving several timesa day from the renovated Burgas Pier The crossing takes under an
hour and makes for a lovely day trip out of Burgas The St AnastasiaIslands turbulent history seems to have been provided with a happyending
1 The lighthouse of St Anastasia
Island was built in the 1880s by a
French company but the tower is
from 1912 In the waters nearby
stands one of the geological
curiosities of the island The
Mushroom rock
2 The regular tourist boats to StAnastasia start from the renovated
pier of Burgas
3 Founded in the 16th Century
the monastery and its church
suffered heavily from pirate
raids and were renovated at the
beginning of the 19th Century In
1923 the monastery was turned
into a prison
4 Rusting remains from periods
of desolation Today St Anastasiais a welcoming place with a nice
restaurant and a multimedia
museum
1 3
4
2
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32
Magical Rhodope site tells storieso Dionysus Alexander the Great
and Augustus
by Bozhidara Georgieva photography by Anthony Georgieff
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Covering more than 983093 square kilometres Perperikon is the biggestmegalithic site in the Balkans
The first people arrived here 983096983088983088983088 years ago and carved the rocksso they could fill the crevices with fragments of pots as offerings tothe unknown deities or spirits they believed in Then these people
disappeared from Perperikon After a hiatus of about 983089983088983088983088 years atthe end of the 983093th and the beginning of the 983092th millennia BC thehill again became the focal point of religious activity In the 983089983096th-9830891048626thcenturies BC the sanctuary was already so extensive and famous thatartefacts belonging to the Minoan and Mycenaean civilisations arenow found there
Perperikon experienced a decline in the 983092th-983089st centuries BCbut when the Romans took over Thrace activity resumed and newbuildings adorned the hill In the 983094th Century however Christianity
took over and the sanctuary was abandoned Unlike other pagansacred places in the Balkans Perperikon did not fall completelysilent
Christians moved into the empty shrines built churches over themand turned Perperikon into the stronghold of local bishops It allcame to an end in 98308939830941048626 when the Ottomans invaded and people leftPerperikon for good leaving the hill to nature which soon swallowedup the remains of the churches and the Thracian shrines
The site was rediscovered by archaeologists in the 1048626983088th Century
but Perperikon only became a household name in the early 1048626983088983088983088s when excavations started again and the theory that it had belonged tothe Oracle of Dionysus was promoted as a proven fact
Previous spread Remains of cult
pits and graves in the bedrock
Perperikon was built on solid rock
so the bases of each building and
even the graves were hewn in
the stone
Deciphering the traces in the
bedrock is not easy Some believe
that the pits covering the surface
of Perperikon were only for ritual
purposes Actually most weremade to support columns of
buildings or to store food and
liquids
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Major river breaks outin Stara Planina heading
towards Black Seaby Minka Vazkresenska photography by Anthony Georgieff
How to define the source of a river is often a tough question toanswer Is it where water springs from the ground for the first timeor is it the place where two or more streams merge into a larger flowEven the source of the Danube Europes largest river is contentiousat least three springs claim to be the beginnings of the mighty river
The Kamchiya River is no exception Theoretically it is only983092983094 kilometres long and flows through northeastern Bulgaria before joining the Black Sea at a particularly beautiful and terrifyinglymosquito-infested forest With its major tributary the Golyama orGrand Kamchiya the river is 1048626983092983092 kilometres long making it the983096th longest river in Bulgaria The official source of the GolyamaKamchiya ndash and of the Kamchiya ndash is in the Lisa Planina at analtitude of about 983095983089983088 metres above sea level
But there is a spot high up in the Stara Planina on the border ofits central and eastern parts which has gained popularity as the truesource of the Kamchiya It is where the second major tributaryof the river confusingly called the Luda or Crazy Kamchiya springsup as a tiny stream runs eastwards for 1048626983088983088 kilometres and joins theGolyama Kamchiya The Luda Kamchiya is the 983089983088th longest river inBulgaria
The popularity of the Luda Kamchiyas spring as the genuinebeginning of the Kamchiya River (are you already confused)
is probably due to its location It is in a pleasant and historicallysignificant spot the Vratnik Pass connecting Veliko Tarnovo andElena to the north with Sliven south of the Stara Planina
44 45
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44 45
Situated at an altitude of 983089983088983097983095 metres above sea level and being 983089983088kilometres long the Vratnik Pass used to be a main route through themountain The Romans built a road along it and in the Middle Agesa strong fort guarded it a frequent site of battles between Bulgariansand Byzantines The importance of the pass was mirrored in its nameZhelezni Vrata and Demir Kapiya mean Iron Gates in Bulgarian andTurkish resepctively The modern-day name of the pass Vratnik wasadopted in 9830899830979830921048626 and just means Gate
Today the pass is almost deserted as most drivers prefer to avoid thenarrow potholed road which zigzags through a thick forest Even insummer when you stop at the highest part of the pass to look for theKamchiyas source you will most probably find the place empty
Actually empty means empty of tourists The forest around thespring is the temporary home of of some Gypsies families dealing with lumberjacking and mushroom-pickingTheir ragged tents madeof old blankets and sheets of nylon are all over the place as are theheaps of household garbage
The scenery becomes almost surreal when mist descends drenchingthe forest in white and leaving only the dark trunks of the closesttrees visible
The Luda Kamchiyas spring is east of the road in a depressionhidden by tall trees Spectacular it is not as it is fed into a waterfountain The water fountain inscription however is grandiose Tothose fallen for freedom Glorify their sacred feat you unendinglyflowing Kamchiya
There is some justification for this Only 1048626 kilometres east of thespring is Aglikina Polyana or Aglikas Meadow where the Bulgarianhayduti or 983089983097th Century rebels used to meet They lived in themountains as far away from the Ottoman authorities as possibleexcept for when they attacked and robbed Ottoman convoys at the pass
Aglikina Polyana is heavily represented in Bulgarian heroic folklorehas a protected area status and hosts a regular folklore meeting
You can visit Aglikina Polyana from here but in any case be sure to
kneel at the water fountain which is the source of the Luda Kamchiyaand take a drink It is not that often that you can drink the cool clear waters of a river at its source
Top Semi-wild horses roam freely
around the Vratnik Pass
Bottom The beginnings of a 200-
kilometre Luda Kamchiya river
46 47
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Remote village pro983158idesunspoilt old-time atmosphere great ood by Violeta Rozova photography by Anthony Georgieff
Rural tourism in Bulgaria was barely known 1048626983088 years ago butin the early 1048626983088983088983088s it experienced an EU-funded boom But in thelate 1048626983088983088983088s the still ongoing economic crisis hit and now manyguesthouses are struggling to survive with the decreased numberof visitors In the western fringes of the Rhodope however is atraditional village which is still one of the best places for ruraltourism in Bulgaria
Leshten close to Gotse Delchev actually invented rural tourismin Bulgaria Since the mid-983089983097983097983088s it has been the first choice for anescape from the big city for all those interested in clean air delicioushealthy food and genuinely and intelligently preserved architecture
Truth to tell Leshten is hardly a village nowadays Only 983089983088 peoplelive there and most of them are septuagenarian In the 983089983097th and thefirst half of the 1048626983088th centuries however Leshten was a bustling placehome to more than 983093983088983088 people Unlike the inhabitants of nearbyKovachevitsa who built three- and four-storey mini fortresses to
protect their riches the people of Leshten were poor They had lessto lose and so they built houses of only two floors The ground level was for the livestock and the one above for the families
48 49
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Top A statue of two icecream
cones
Bottom The Buzludzha complex is
famous for its ghastly atmosphere
32
4
Kovachevitsa and Leshten both began to lose inhabitants at a greatrate after the Communist coup of 983089983097983092983092 when industrialisation andforced collectivisation striped the villagers of their livelihood andforced them to seek jobs in cities Kovachevitsa as a much grander village attracted the attention of Bulgarian film-makers in the 983089983097983095983088sand experienced a wave of new settlers mostly Sofia intellectuals who bought holiday homes there
Leshten was rediscovered much laterIn the mid-983089983097983097983088s a couple from Sofia found themselves in the
village with its ghostly and abandoned old houses They fell in love with Leshten as it had an unexpected advantage over crowd-pulling
Kovachevitsa Kovachevitsa is deep in the mountains and does nothave much of a vistaLeshten however has a marvellous view over the valley of the
Mesta River with the blue slopes of the Pirin defining the horizon983121uite unusually for the mid-983089983097983097983088s when everyone was either
leaving Bulgaria or flocking to Sofia where job prospects were betterthe couple moved to Leshten They bought some of the houses andturned them into holiday lets while preserving as much as possiblethe traditional architecture and opened one of the best restaurants
in Bulgaria This was in the long-disused local school next to thebeautiful and tiny St Paraskeva Church which dates from 9830899830963983094 and iscovered inside with primitive but captivating murals
1
1 The key to your room Each
detail in the 200-year old Leshten
houses has been preserved
2 3 The St Paraskeva Church
was built in 1837 and has been
listed as a local monument of
culture
4 Having breakfast while enjoying
the view to the Mesta Valley and
the Pirin is one of Leshtens many
pleasures
50 51
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The food in the tavern was locally sourced long before this became
fashionable Almost everything on the menu comes from the areafrom the wild berry juice and the thick sheeprsquos yoghurt to thetraditional egg noodles and the meatballs which are prepared not ofmince but of finely chopped meat
The restored traditional houses are on a par with the foods qualityIntelligently preserved yet having mod cons they smell of ageing wood geraniums and of woollen rugs warmed by the sun The wallsare whitewashed white linen curtains with embroidery shade the windows and the slightly crooked beams of the floor squeak quietly
under your feetRecently however more people decided to profit on Leshten
More houses were turned into hotels and as the competition grewone night the old school caught fire and burned to the ground Thetavern was re-established in a newer building with a beautiful viewof the Mesta Valley The food is still gorgeous the best the Rhodopeand the people living in these beautiful mountains can give you
This series of articles is supported by theAmerica for Bulgaria Foundation The
statements and opinions expressed herein
are those of the authors and do not necessarily
reflect the opinion of the America for Bulgaria
Foundation and its partners
1 Stone was used extensively in
building the houses of Leshten
and even the roofs are f rom rock
The technique was popular in
Bulgaria until the beginning of
the 20th Century but was later
abandoned It has been enjoying
a revival in recent years as surge
of interest in eco tourism has
brought it back to fashion
2 Leshten is a good basefor exploring of the Western
Rhodope with traditional villages
like Kovachevitsa and Dolen and
pristine wild nature all around
3 Fresco from St Paraskeva
Church with a didactic scene
advertising the advantages of
pious life
3
1
2
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Case study of senior Communist offi cialElena Lagadinova reveals unexpectedaspects of superpower confrontation
by Kristen Ghodsee all photographs courtesy of the author
One of the great ironies of the Cold War is that the twosuperpowers often championed issues that they cared little aboutin practice The East bloc defended the social rights of the worldrsquos workers while treating their own citizens like indentured servantsThe United States campaigned for political freedoms abroad whilebrutally oppressing or marginalising their own African-Americanand Native American populations at home Any rhetoric thatcould be deployed against the enemy became a weapon in the widerideological battle
Today historians and social scientists are studying the internationallegacies of these Cold War rivalries over social and politicalrights Whether it is labor conventions at the International LaborOrganisation political self-determination for previously colonisedcountries or the end to state-sanctioned racial discrimination in theUnited States or in apartheid-era South Africa the general scholarlyconsensus is that ordinary people ndash whether in the capitalist
Communist or developing worlds ndash benefitted from superpowercompetition An unintended consequence of American and Sovietgrandstanding was often real social progress
1
2
2
4
54
6 7
1 Elena The Amazon
Lagadinova in 1945
2 With Valentina Tereshkova
3 Delivering a speech in 1970
4 With the US activist Angela
Davis in 1972
5 Hosting a school for African
women leaders in Sofia in 1982
6 Lagadinova (left) with an
young Irina Bokova (right) at
the Third UN Conference on
Women in Nairobi in 1985
7 In Razlog with Kristen
Ghodsee in 2013
3
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Tousands o Hassidim gatherin Ukrainian city to celebrate
Jewish New Year by Dimana Trankova photography by Anthony Georgieff
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Dusty and drab devoid of any charm unless you count the 983089983096thCentury Sofyivka Park and the Georgian cheese pastries at the busstation the Ukrainian city of Uman would be a strong contender forthe most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe
But it is not the most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe ndash atleast not for a couple of days each year when it gets filled with joyfulcrowds of Ultra religious Jews flown in from as far as Canada BritainIsrael and Australia to celebrate the Jewish New Year usually inSeptember They all converge at Pushkin Street take out their heavyluggage and drag it to their rented rooms in small houses and tallSocialist apartment blocks Music is booming the smell of cookedfood comes from the tents of the openair eateries Happy people inthe streets greet each other smiling from ear to ear when they meetand embrace some old friend
Uman a city of roughly 983097983088983088983088983088 residents in western Ukraine is thefocus of pilgrimage for Hasidic Jews who come here to celebrate atthe tomb of one of their greatest spiritual leaders
Rebbe Nachman (9830899830959830951048626-983089983096983089983088) of Breslov was the great-grandson ofBaal Shem Tov the founder of Hasidism a conservative movementthat spread among the Ashkenazi Jews in Eastern Europe He showedthe first signs of having a special connection with the divine as earlyas 983089983095 and spent the next decades of his life moving around the areaof what is now western Ukraine and eastern Poland attractingfollowers Rebbe Nachmans travels even brought him to Palestine where he met and talked with prominent Jewish sages and scholars
In 9830899830969830881048626 he settled in Bratslav (as Breslov is more commonlyknown) and announced the creation of a new movement ofHasidism the Breslov Hasidism
When pilgrimage to Rebbe
Nachmans grave resumed in
the early 1990s the locals ofUman were amazed by the Rosh
Hashanah antics of visiting Jews
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Rebbe Nachman was incredibly popular but not everyone
liked him because of some of his more radical ideas one of whichencouraged people to feel free to find spiritual leaders for themselvesand to break with the tradition of the hereditary Hasidic dynastiesRebbe Nachman also encouraged the individual search for the divineHis teachings spread during tumultuous times The beginning of the983089983097th Century saw the spread of democratic ideas across Europe andfor the first time in centuries Jews enjoyed ndash at least theoretically ndashequal rights Many chose fuller integration into the modernEuropean society but for more conservative Jews these changesthreatened the foundation of their communities The teachingsof Rebbe Nachman were a sort of reaction to this trend blendingtradition with more individual freedom
Whether Rebbe Nachman thought of himself as a Messiah is stilla matter of dispute Some phrases from his teachings would makegreat Facebook quotes in todays era of soul-searching and positivethinking such as If you believe that you can damage then believethat you can fixrdquo or You are never given an obstacle you cannotovercome
In Breslov Rebbe Nachman saw his movement flourish andgrow with great crowds of followers assembling for feasts like RoshHashanah Chanukah or Shavuot when they eagerly listened to histeachings In 983089983096983089983088 however he had to move
Consumption had been devouring the still young Rebbe Nachmanfor some time and then his house was destroyed by fire He movedto nearby Uman a town of great significance for the local Jewishcommunity In 983089983095983094983096 about 1048626983088983088983088983088 Jews from Uman along withmany Poles and Uniate Ukrainians were killed by the UkrainianHaidamak rebels who had risen against the then Polish-LithuanianCommonwealth
1 Selling Rebbe Nachman-
themed techno music on Pushkin
Street
2 For many Breslov Hasidim the
pilgrimage is also an opportunity
to meet old friends and make
new ones
3 Rebbe Nachman is the
descendant of Baal Shem Tov the
founder of Hasidism a branch
of Orthodox Judaism wheremysticism is at the foundation of
spirituality
3
1
2
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Over the following two decades the Rosh Hashanah gatheringin Uman became ever stronger On average about 983089983088983088983088983088-983089983093983088983088983088Hasidim come to celebrate each year The atmosphere is festive in thestreets and tense around the grave of Rebbe Nachman and peopleare generally friendly even when they notice the odd tourist in thecrowd Many of the pilgrims get tipsy and dance to rave and rock
music booming from stalls gardens and balconies Children runto and fro carrying presents bought from the ramshackle openairmarket
There are signs however that these people are not the average partygoers The song lyrics are devoted to Rebbe Nachman Umanand Rosh Hashanah Shofars howl and the streets are lined withbarbers shaving the heads of pilgrims in the traditional way The posters on the walls announce the scheduled flights to and fromUman and the crowd is predominantly male
Sometimes there is violence Many locals are not happy with the pilgrims and the fact that many Hasidim have bought propertiesaround Pushkin Street introducing their very specific lifestyle Thereare complaints about the noise and the rubbish and the level ofsecurity 1048626983088983089983088 is remembered for several sometimes bloody fightsbetween locals and pilgrims Overall though visiting Uman for RoshHashanah can turn into the experience of a lifetime even for people with only a faint interest in Judaism The event is an immersion in abygone era right amid the post-Soviet reality of Ukraine
In 1048626983088983089983092 Rosh Hashanah begins at sunset on 1048626983092 September andends at nightfall of 1048626983094 September
Top After decades of
prosecution pilgrimage in Uman
is again safe and many children
mingle in the crowd
Bottom A Jewish boy tries his
brand new plastic gun bought
as a New Years present froma makeshift openair market in
Uman
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82
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150 984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143Stara Zagora50 Han Asparuh St Zagorka lakephone 042 985 555 042 985 555
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983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150983123983156983137983154983137 983130983137983143983151983154983137
Липи прави улици и дружелюбна
атмосфера в един от най-интересните градове на България
текст Димитър Ивановфотография Антони Георгиев
by Dimitar Ivanovphotography by Anthony Georgieff
Lindens straight streets and
fiendly atmosphere in one o themost interesting cities o Bulgaria
984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143984097984130984112984128984112 984087984112984115984126984128984112
Когато се чудите накъде да тръгнете в първите топлидни на есента Стара Загора е едно от най-добрите ре-шения Отдалечен на 10486263983088 км по магистрала Тракияградът е изключително близо за онези които живеят вСофия и предлага много повече спокойствие и зелени-на от столицата дружелюбна атмосфера приятни заве-дения и исторически и природни забележителностикоито да запълнят кратката ви ваканция
Стара Загора е един от най-старите градове в ЕвропаПървите хора се заселили тук около VII-VI хилядоле-тие пр Хр Около IV впрХр на мястото на съвремен-на Стара Загора се появява град на траките известен с
When you are wondering where to go for the first warm days of the autumn Stara Zagora is one of the bestsolutions About 10486263983088 km on the Trakiya Motorway thecity is close enough for those living in Sofia and offersmore serenity and greenery than the capital The city hasalso nice cafeacutes and restaurants and enough historical andnature sites to fill a short holiday
Stara Zagora is one of the oldest cities in EuropeThe fist people settled in the area around the 983095-983094thmillennia BC Around the 983092th Century BC on the placeof modern Stara Zagora appeared a settlement of theThracians which was called Beroe It was conquered by
phone 042 985 555 042 985 555reservationshotelstarazagoraeu
wwwhotelstarazagoraeu
The fi ve-star Park Hotel Stara Zagora is situated on the bank of the romantic Zagorka Lake in Stara Zagora
Hotel with 31 luxurious rooms two luxurious apartments and one VIP apartment
State-of-the-art SPA centre with swimming pool jacuzzi fitness hall steam bath sauna
Turkish bath and massage room
Six conference rooms with capacity between seven and 250 people equipped with multimedia
and other presentational technique and tools Orfeida Restaurant with amazing interior and a capacity for up to 150 people plus a summer and a winter garden
Park for biking fishing boating jogging and other sports and activities
All dreams lead toPark Hotel Stara Zagora
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
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where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
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24 25
by Stamen Manolov
High Beam is a series of articles initiated by Vagabond Magazine with the generous support
of the America for Bulgaria Foundation that aims to provide details and background of places
cultural entities events personalities and facts of life that are sometimes difficult to understandfor the outsider in the Balkans The ultimate aim is the preservation of Bulgarias cultural heritage ndash
including but not limited to archaeological cultural and ethnic diversity
Email your answers toeditorialvagabondbg
and you can win a copy o
Wall-to-WallPoetry of Europe Vagabonds guide
to the poetry walls o Soia
This is possibly the biggest Communist-era monstrosity in
Bulgaria outshining even the Flying Saucer congress hall-cum-temple at Buzludzha It was erected in 983089983097983096983089 as part of amegalomaniacal project masterminded by Todor Zhivkovsdaughter to mark the 9830893983088983088th anniversary of the foundation ofthe Bulgaria state an euphemism for pumping up nationalismNow at least 3983088983088983088983088 tons of concrete stand exposed to theelements above a large Bulgarian city but unlike Buzludzhathis monument has not been abandoned The local city councileven charges entry fees to let you go into it A particular
favourite to Japanese and Israeli tourists (but for completelydifferent reasons)Where in Bulgaria are you
copy A n t h o n y G e o r g i e ff
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26 27
by Bozhidara Georgieva photography by Anthony Georgieff
Former monastery prisonbecomes tourist attraction
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30 31
This publicity did not have any impact on the island itself In the983089983097983094983088s Bolshevik Island became a place of recreation for the artisticcircles of Burgas but the buildings fell into disrepair and soon theonly thing still intact on the island was the lighthouse The currentlighthouse which was supplied with electricity as late as the 983089983097983094983088sdates back to 983089983096983096983097 with a major facelift in 983089983097983089983092
After the democratic changes of 983089983097983096983097 Bolshevik Island became StAnastasia Island once more The regular boat services however were
discontinued and decay overtook the former monastic and prisonbuildings St Anastasia became a ghostly place which a handful of visitors per year could reach only if they hired a fisherman to bringthem to the island A basic tavern provided even more basic foodand the more adventurous slept in the dilapidated rooms of themonastery
The desolation and decay of St Anastasia are captured withdocumentary precision in Kamen Kalevs 1048626983088983089983089 feature movie he
Island
In 1048626983088983089983092 however the Burgas City Council completed a majorreconstruction project on the island The monastery buildingshave been restored and renovated there is better accommodationfor visitors who decide to spend the night on the island and therestaurant has been improved and the tourist infrastructure includesa small museum and a medieval pharmacy where local herbs aregrown
Reaching the island is easier with regular boats leaving several timesa day from the renovated Burgas Pier The crossing takes under an
hour and makes for a lovely day trip out of Burgas The St AnastasiaIslands turbulent history seems to have been provided with a happyending
1 The lighthouse of St Anastasia
Island was built in the 1880s by a
French company but the tower is
from 1912 In the waters nearby
stands one of the geological
curiosities of the island The
Mushroom rock
2 The regular tourist boats to StAnastasia start from the renovated
pier of Burgas
3 Founded in the 16th Century
the monastery and its church
suffered heavily from pirate
raids and were renovated at the
beginning of the 19th Century In
1923 the monastery was turned
into a prison
4 Rusting remains from periods
of desolation Today St Anastasiais a welcoming place with a nice
restaurant and a multimedia
museum
1 3
4
2
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32
Magical Rhodope site tells storieso Dionysus Alexander the Great
and Augustus
by Bozhidara Georgieva photography by Anthony Georgieff
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Covering more than 983093 square kilometres Perperikon is the biggestmegalithic site in the Balkans
The first people arrived here 983096983088983088983088 years ago and carved the rocksso they could fill the crevices with fragments of pots as offerings tothe unknown deities or spirits they believed in Then these people
disappeared from Perperikon After a hiatus of about 983089983088983088983088 years atthe end of the 983093th and the beginning of the 983092th millennia BC thehill again became the focal point of religious activity In the 983089983096th-9830891048626thcenturies BC the sanctuary was already so extensive and famous thatartefacts belonging to the Minoan and Mycenaean civilisations arenow found there
Perperikon experienced a decline in the 983092th-983089st centuries BCbut when the Romans took over Thrace activity resumed and newbuildings adorned the hill In the 983094th Century however Christianity
took over and the sanctuary was abandoned Unlike other pagansacred places in the Balkans Perperikon did not fall completelysilent
Christians moved into the empty shrines built churches over themand turned Perperikon into the stronghold of local bishops It allcame to an end in 98308939830941048626 when the Ottomans invaded and people leftPerperikon for good leaving the hill to nature which soon swallowedup the remains of the churches and the Thracian shrines
The site was rediscovered by archaeologists in the 1048626983088th Century
but Perperikon only became a household name in the early 1048626983088983088983088s when excavations started again and the theory that it had belonged tothe Oracle of Dionysus was promoted as a proven fact
Previous spread Remains of cult
pits and graves in the bedrock
Perperikon was built on solid rock
so the bases of each building and
even the graves were hewn in
the stone
Deciphering the traces in the
bedrock is not easy Some believe
that the pits covering the surface
of Perperikon were only for ritual
purposes Actually most weremade to support columns of
buildings or to store food and
liquids
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Major river breaks outin Stara Planina heading
towards Black Seaby Minka Vazkresenska photography by Anthony Georgieff
How to define the source of a river is often a tough question toanswer Is it where water springs from the ground for the first timeor is it the place where two or more streams merge into a larger flowEven the source of the Danube Europes largest river is contentiousat least three springs claim to be the beginnings of the mighty river
The Kamchiya River is no exception Theoretically it is only983092983094 kilometres long and flows through northeastern Bulgaria before joining the Black Sea at a particularly beautiful and terrifyinglymosquito-infested forest With its major tributary the Golyama orGrand Kamchiya the river is 1048626983092983092 kilometres long making it the983096th longest river in Bulgaria The official source of the GolyamaKamchiya ndash and of the Kamchiya ndash is in the Lisa Planina at analtitude of about 983095983089983088 metres above sea level
But there is a spot high up in the Stara Planina on the border ofits central and eastern parts which has gained popularity as the truesource of the Kamchiya It is where the second major tributaryof the river confusingly called the Luda or Crazy Kamchiya springsup as a tiny stream runs eastwards for 1048626983088983088 kilometres and joins theGolyama Kamchiya The Luda Kamchiya is the 983089983088th longest river inBulgaria
The popularity of the Luda Kamchiyas spring as the genuinebeginning of the Kamchiya River (are you already confused)
is probably due to its location It is in a pleasant and historicallysignificant spot the Vratnik Pass connecting Veliko Tarnovo andElena to the north with Sliven south of the Stara Planina
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Situated at an altitude of 983089983088983097983095 metres above sea level and being 983089983088kilometres long the Vratnik Pass used to be a main route through themountain The Romans built a road along it and in the Middle Agesa strong fort guarded it a frequent site of battles between Bulgariansand Byzantines The importance of the pass was mirrored in its nameZhelezni Vrata and Demir Kapiya mean Iron Gates in Bulgarian andTurkish resepctively The modern-day name of the pass Vratnik wasadopted in 9830899830979830921048626 and just means Gate
Today the pass is almost deserted as most drivers prefer to avoid thenarrow potholed road which zigzags through a thick forest Even insummer when you stop at the highest part of the pass to look for theKamchiyas source you will most probably find the place empty
Actually empty means empty of tourists The forest around thespring is the temporary home of of some Gypsies families dealing with lumberjacking and mushroom-pickingTheir ragged tents madeof old blankets and sheets of nylon are all over the place as are theheaps of household garbage
The scenery becomes almost surreal when mist descends drenchingthe forest in white and leaving only the dark trunks of the closesttrees visible
The Luda Kamchiyas spring is east of the road in a depressionhidden by tall trees Spectacular it is not as it is fed into a waterfountain The water fountain inscription however is grandiose Tothose fallen for freedom Glorify their sacred feat you unendinglyflowing Kamchiya
There is some justification for this Only 1048626 kilometres east of thespring is Aglikina Polyana or Aglikas Meadow where the Bulgarianhayduti or 983089983097th Century rebels used to meet They lived in themountains as far away from the Ottoman authorities as possibleexcept for when they attacked and robbed Ottoman convoys at the pass
Aglikina Polyana is heavily represented in Bulgarian heroic folklorehas a protected area status and hosts a regular folklore meeting
You can visit Aglikina Polyana from here but in any case be sure to
kneel at the water fountain which is the source of the Luda Kamchiyaand take a drink It is not that often that you can drink the cool clear waters of a river at its source
Top Semi-wild horses roam freely
around the Vratnik Pass
Bottom The beginnings of a 200-
kilometre Luda Kamchiya river
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Remote village pro983158idesunspoilt old-time atmosphere great ood by Violeta Rozova photography by Anthony Georgieff
Rural tourism in Bulgaria was barely known 1048626983088 years ago butin the early 1048626983088983088983088s it experienced an EU-funded boom But in thelate 1048626983088983088983088s the still ongoing economic crisis hit and now manyguesthouses are struggling to survive with the decreased numberof visitors In the western fringes of the Rhodope however is atraditional village which is still one of the best places for ruraltourism in Bulgaria
Leshten close to Gotse Delchev actually invented rural tourismin Bulgaria Since the mid-983089983097983097983088s it has been the first choice for anescape from the big city for all those interested in clean air delicioushealthy food and genuinely and intelligently preserved architecture
Truth to tell Leshten is hardly a village nowadays Only 983089983088 peoplelive there and most of them are septuagenarian In the 983089983097th and thefirst half of the 1048626983088th centuries however Leshten was a bustling placehome to more than 983093983088983088 people Unlike the inhabitants of nearbyKovachevitsa who built three- and four-storey mini fortresses to
protect their riches the people of Leshten were poor They had lessto lose and so they built houses of only two floors The ground level was for the livestock and the one above for the families
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Top A statue of two icecream
cones
Bottom The Buzludzha complex is
famous for its ghastly atmosphere
32
4
Kovachevitsa and Leshten both began to lose inhabitants at a greatrate after the Communist coup of 983089983097983092983092 when industrialisation andforced collectivisation striped the villagers of their livelihood andforced them to seek jobs in cities Kovachevitsa as a much grander village attracted the attention of Bulgarian film-makers in the 983089983097983095983088sand experienced a wave of new settlers mostly Sofia intellectuals who bought holiday homes there
Leshten was rediscovered much laterIn the mid-983089983097983097983088s a couple from Sofia found themselves in the
village with its ghostly and abandoned old houses They fell in love with Leshten as it had an unexpected advantage over crowd-pulling
Kovachevitsa Kovachevitsa is deep in the mountains and does nothave much of a vistaLeshten however has a marvellous view over the valley of the
Mesta River with the blue slopes of the Pirin defining the horizon983121uite unusually for the mid-983089983097983097983088s when everyone was either
leaving Bulgaria or flocking to Sofia where job prospects were betterthe couple moved to Leshten They bought some of the houses andturned them into holiday lets while preserving as much as possiblethe traditional architecture and opened one of the best restaurants
in Bulgaria This was in the long-disused local school next to thebeautiful and tiny St Paraskeva Church which dates from 9830899830963983094 and iscovered inside with primitive but captivating murals
1
1 The key to your room Each
detail in the 200-year old Leshten
houses has been preserved
2 3 The St Paraskeva Church
was built in 1837 and has been
listed as a local monument of
culture
4 Having breakfast while enjoying
the view to the Mesta Valley and
the Pirin is one of Leshtens many
pleasures
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The food in the tavern was locally sourced long before this became
fashionable Almost everything on the menu comes from the areafrom the wild berry juice and the thick sheeprsquos yoghurt to thetraditional egg noodles and the meatballs which are prepared not ofmince but of finely chopped meat
The restored traditional houses are on a par with the foods qualityIntelligently preserved yet having mod cons they smell of ageing wood geraniums and of woollen rugs warmed by the sun The wallsare whitewashed white linen curtains with embroidery shade the windows and the slightly crooked beams of the floor squeak quietly
under your feetRecently however more people decided to profit on Leshten
More houses were turned into hotels and as the competition grewone night the old school caught fire and burned to the ground Thetavern was re-established in a newer building with a beautiful viewof the Mesta Valley The food is still gorgeous the best the Rhodopeand the people living in these beautiful mountains can give you
This series of articles is supported by theAmerica for Bulgaria Foundation The
statements and opinions expressed herein
are those of the authors and do not necessarily
reflect the opinion of the America for Bulgaria
Foundation and its partners
1 Stone was used extensively in
building the houses of Leshten
and even the roofs are f rom rock
The technique was popular in
Bulgaria until the beginning of
the 20th Century but was later
abandoned It has been enjoying
a revival in recent years as surge
of interest in eco tourism has
brought it back to fashion
2 Leshten is a good basefor exploring of the Western
Rhodope with traditional villages
like Kovachevitsa and Dolen and
pristine wild nature all around
3 Fresco from St Paraskeva
Church with a didactic scene
advertising the advantages of
pious life
3
1
2
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Case study of senior Communist offi cialElena Lagadinova reveals unexpectedaspects of superpower confrontation
by Kristen Ghodsee all photographs courtesy of the author
One of the great ironies of the Cold War is that the twosuperpowers often championed issues that they cared little aboutin practice The East bloc defended the social rights of the worldrsquos workers while treating their own citizens like indentured servantsThe United States campaigned for political freedoms abroad whilebrutally oppressing or marginalising their own African-Americanand Native American populations at home Any rhetoric thatcould be deployed against the enemy became a weapon in the widerideological battle
Today historians and social scientists are studying the internationallegacies of these Cold War rivalries over social and politicalrights Whether it is labor conventions at the International LaborOrganisation political self-determination for previously colonisedcountries or the end to state-sanctioned racial discrimination in theUnited States or in apartheid-era South Africa the general scholarlyconsensus is that ordinary people ndash whether in the capitalist
Communist or developing worlds ndash benefitted from superpowercompetition An unintended consequence of American and Sovietgrandstanding was often real social progress
1
2
2
4
54
6 7
1 Elena The Amazon
Lagadinova in 1945
2 With Valentina Tereshkova
3 Delivering a speech in 1970
4 With the US activist Angela
Davis in 1972
5 Hosting a school for African
women leaders in Sofia in 1982
6 Lagadinova (left) with an
young Irina Bokova (right) at
the Third UN Conference on
Women in Nairobi in 1985
7 In Razlog with Kristen
Ghodsee in 2013
3
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Tousands o Hassidim gatherin Ukrainian city to celebrate
Jewish New Year by Dimana Trankova photography by Anthony Georgieff
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Dusty and drab devoid of any charm unless you count the 983089983096thCentury Sofyivka Park and the Georgian cheese pastries at the busstation the Ukrainian city of Uman would be a strong contender forthe most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe
But it is not the most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe ndash atleast not for a couple of days each year when it gets filled with joyfulcrowds of Ultra religious Jews flown in from as far as Canada BritainIsrael and Australia to celebrate the Jewish New Year usually inSeptember They all converge at Pushkin Street take out their heavyluggage and drag it to their rented rooms in small houses and tallSocialist apartment blocks Music is booming the smell of cookedfood comes from the tents of the openair eateries Happy people inthe streets greet each other smiling from ear to ear when they meetand embrace some old friend
Uman a city of roughly 983097983088983088983088983088 residents in western Ukraine is thefocus of pilgrimage for Hasidic Jews who come here to celebrate atthe tomb of one of their greatest spiritual leaders
Rebbe Nachman (9830899830959830951048626-983089983096983089983088) of Breslov was the great-grandson ofBaal Shem Tov the founder of Hasidism a conservative movementthat spread among the Ashkenazi Jews in Eastern Europe He showedthe first signs of having a special connection with the divine as earlyas 983089983095 and spent the next decades of his life moving around the areaof what is now western Ukraine and eastern Poland attractingfollowers Rebbe Nachmans travels even brought him to Palestine where he met and talked with prominent Jewish sages and scholars
In 9830899830969830881048626 he settled in Bratslav (as Breslov is more commonlyknown) and announced the creation of a new movement ofHasidism the Breslov Hasidism
When pilgrimage to Rebbe
Nachmans grave resumed in
the early 1990s the locals ofUman were amazed by the Rosh
Hashanah antics of visiting Jews
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Rebbe Nachman was incredibly popular but not everyone
liked him because of some of his more radical ideas one of whichencouraged people to feel free to find spiritual leaders for themselvesand to break with the tradition of the hereditary Hasidic dynastiesRebbe Nachman also encouraged the individual search for the divineHis teachings spread during tumultuous times The beginning of the983089983097th Century saw the spread of democratic ideas across Europe andfor the first time in centuries Jews enjoyed ndash at least theoretically ndashequal rights Many chose fuller integration into the modernEuropean society but for more conservative Jews these changesthreatened the foundation of their communities The teachingsof Rebbe Nachman were a sort of reaction to this trend blendingtradition with more individual freedom
Whether Rebbe Nachman thought of himself as a Messiah is stilla matter of dispute Some phrases from his teachings would makegreat Facebook quotes in todays era of soul-searching and positivethinking such as If you believe that you can damage then believethat you can fixrdquo or You are never given an obstacle you cannotovercome
In Breslov Rebbe Nachman saw his movement flourish andgrow with great crowds of followers assembling for feasts like RoshHashanah Chanukah or Shavuot when they eagerly listened to histeachings In 983089983096983089983088 however he had to move
Consumption had been devouring the still young Rebbe Nachmanfor some time and then his house was destroyed by fire He movedto nearby Uman a town of great significance for the local Jewishcommunity In 983089983095983094983096 about 1048626983088983088983088983088 Jews from Uman along withmany Poles and Uniate Ukrainians were killed by the UkrainianHaidamak rebels who had risen against the then Polish-LithuanianCommonwealth
1 Selling Rebbe Nachman-
themed techno music on Pushkin
Street
2 For many Breslov Hasidim the
pilgrimage is also an opportunity
to meet old friends and make
new ones
3 Rebbe Nachman is the
descendant of Baal Shem Tov the
founder of Hasidism a branch
of Orthodox Judaism wheremysticism is at the foundation of
spirituality
3
1
2
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Over the following two decades the Rosh Hashanah gatheringin Uman became ever stronger On average about 983089983088983088983088983088-983089983093983088983088983088Hasidim come to celebrate each year The atmosphere is festive in thestreets and tense around the grave of Rebbe Nachman and peopleare generally friendly even when they notice the odd tourist in thecrowd Many of the pilgrims get tipsy and dance to rave and rock
music booming from stalls gardens and balconies Children runto and fro carrying presents bought from the ramshackle openairmarket
There are signs however that these people are not the average partygoers The song lyrics are devoted to Rebbe Nachman Umanand Rosh Hashanah Shofars howl and the streets are lined withbarbers shaving the heads of pilgrims in the traditional way The posters on the walls announce the scheduled flights to and fromUman and the crowd is predominantly male
Sometimes there is violence Many locals are not happy with the pilgrims and the fact that many Hasidim have bought propertiesaround Pushkin Street introducing their very specific lifestyle Thereare complaints about the noise and the rubbish and the level ofsecurity 1048626983088983089983088 is remembered for several sometimes bloody fightsbetween locals and pilgrims Overall though visiting Uman for RoshHashanah can turn into the experience of a lifetime even for people with only a faint interest in Judaism The event is an immersion in abygone era right amid the post-Soviet reality of Ukraine
In 1048626983088983089983092 Rosh Hashanah begins at sunset on 1048626983092 September andends at nightfall of 1048626983094 September
Top After decades of
prosecution pilgrimage in Uman
is again safe and many children
mingle in the crowd
Bottom A Jewish boy tries his
brand new plastic gun bought
as a New Years present froma makeshift openair market in
Uman
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82
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150 984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143Stara Zagora50 Han Asparuh St Zagorka lakephone 042 985 555 042 985 555
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983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150983123983156983137983154983137 983130983137983143983151983154983137
Липи прави улици и дружелюбна
атмосфера в един от най-интересните градове на България
текст Димитър Ивановфотография Антони Георгиев
by Dimitar Ivanovphotography by Anthony Georgieff
Lindens straight streets and
fiendly atmosphere in one o themost interesting cities o Bulgaria
984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143984097984130984112984128984112 984087984112984115984126984128984112
Когато се чудите накъде да тръгнете в първите топлидни на есента Стара Загора е едно от най-добрите ре-шения Отдалечен на 10486263983088 км по магистрала Тракияградът е изключително близо за онези които живеят вСофия и предлага много повече спокойствие и зелени-на от столицата дружелюбна атмосфера приятни заве-дения и исторически и природни забележителностикоито да запълнят кратката ви ваканция
Стара Загора е един от най-старите градове в ЕвропаПървите хора се заселили тук около VII-VI хилядоле-тие пр Хр Около IV впрХр на мястото на съвремен-на Стара Загора се появява град на траките известен с
When you are wondering where to go for the first warm days of the autumn Stara Zagora is one of the bestsolutions About 10486263983088 km on the Trakiya Motorway thecity is close enough for those living in Sofia and offersmore serenity and greenery than the capital The city hasalso nice cafeacutes and restaurants and enough historical andnature sites to fill a short holiday
Stara Zagora is one of the oldest cities in EuropeThe fist people settled in the area around the 983095-983094thmillennia BC Around the 983092th Century BC on the placeof modern Stara Zagora appeared a settlement of theThracians which was called Beroe It was conquered by
phone 042 985 555 042 985 555reservationshotelstarazagoraeu
wwwhotelstarazagoraeu
The fi ve-star Park Hotel Stara Zagora is situated on the bank of the romantic Zagorka Lake in Stara Zagora
Hotel with 31 luxurious rooms two luxurious apartments and one VIP apartment
State-of-the-art SPA centre with swimming pool jacuzzi fitness hall steam bath sauna
Turkish bath and massage room
Six conference rooms with capacity between seven and 250 people equipped with multimedia
and other presentational technique and tools Orfeida Restaurant with amazing interior and a capacity for up to 150 people plus a summer and a winter garden
Park for biking fishing boating jogging and other sports and activities
All dreams lead toPark Hotel Stara Zagora
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
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where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
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26 27
by Bozhidara Georgieva photography by Anthony Georgieff
Former monastery prisonbecomes tourist attraction
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30 31
This publicity did not have any impact on the island itself In the983089983097983094983088s Bolshevik Island became a place of recreation for the artisticcircles of Burgas but the buildings fell into disrepair and soon theonly thing still intact on the island was the lighthouse The currentlighthouse which was supplied with electricity as late as the 983089983097983094983088sdates back to 983089983096983096983097 with a major facelift in 983089983097983089983092
After the democratic changes of 983089983097983096983097 Bolshevik Island became StAnastasia Island once more The regular boat services however were
discontinued and decay overtook the former monastic and prisonbuildings St Anastasia became a ghostly place which a handful of visitors per year could reach only if they hired a fisherman to bringthem to the island A basic tavern provided even more basic foodand the more adventurous slept in the dilapidated rooms of themonastery
The desolation and decay of St Anastasia are captured withdocumentary precision in Kamen Kalevs 1048626983088983089983089 feature movie he
Island
In 1048626983088983089983092 however the Burgas City Council completed a majorreconstruction project on the island The monastery buildingshave been restored and renovated there is better accommodationfor visitors who decide to spend the night on the island and therestaurant has been improved and the tourist infrastructure includesa small museum and a medieval pharmacy where local herbs aregrown
Reaching the island is easier with regular boats leaving several timesa day from the renovated Burgas Pier The crossing takes under an
hour and makes for a lovely day trip out of Burgas The St AnastasiaIslands turbulent history seems to have been provided with a happyending
1 The lighthouse of St Anastasia
Island was built in the 1880s by a
French company but the tower is
from 1912 In the waters nearby
stands one of the geological
curiosities of the island The
Mushroom rock
2 The regular tourist boats to StAnastasia start from the renovated
pier of Burgas
3 Founded in the 16th Century
the monastery and its church
suffered heavily from pirate
raids and were renovated at the
beginning of the 19th Century In
1923 the monastery was turned
into a prison
4 Rusting remains from periods
of desolation Today St Anastasiais a welcoming place with a nice
restaurant and a multimedia
museum
1 3
4
2
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32
Magical Rhodope site tells storieso Dionysus Alexander the Great
and Augustus
by Bozhidara Georgieva photography by Anthony Georgieff
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Covering more than 983093 square kilometres Perperikon is the biggestmegalithic site in the Balkans
The first people arrived here 983096983088983088983088 years ago and carved the rocksso they could fill the crevices with fragments of pots as offerings tothe unknown deities or spirits they believed in Then these people
disappeared from Perperikon After a hiatus of about 983089983088983088983088 years atthe end of the 983093th and the beginning of the 983092th millennia BC thehill again became the focal point of religious activity In the 983089983096th-9830891048626thcenturies BC the sanctuary was already so extensive and famous thatartefacts belonging to the Minoan and Mycenaean civilisations arenow found there
Perperikon experienced a decline in the 983092th-983089st centuries BCbut when the Romans took over Thrace activity resumed and newbuildings adorned the hill In the 983094th Century however Christianity
took over and the sanctuary was abandoned Unlike other pagansacred places in the Balkans Perperikon did not fall completelysilent
Christians moved into the empty shrines built churches over themand turned Perperikon into the stronghold of local bishops It allcame to an end in 98308939830941048626 when the Ottomans invaded and people leftPerperikon for good leaving the hill to nature which soon swallowedup the remains of the churches and the Thracian shrines
The site was rediscovered by archaeologists in the 1048626983088th Century
but Perperikon only became a household name in the early 1048626983088983088983088s when excavations started again and the theory that it had belonged tothe Oracle of Dionysus was promoted as a proven fact
Previous spread Remains of cult
pits and graves in the bedrock
Perperikon was built on solid rock
so the bases of each building and
even the graves were hewn in
the stone
Deciphering the traces in the
bedrock is not easy Some believe
that the pits covering the surface
of Perperikon were only for ritual
purposes Actually most weremade to support columns of
buildings or to store food and
liquids
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Major river breaks outin Stara Planina heading
towards Black Seaby Minka Vazkresenska photography by Anthony Georgieff
How to define the source of a river is often a tough question toanswer Is it where water springs from the ground for the first timeor is it the place where two or more streams merge into a larger flowEven the source of the Danube Europes largest river is contentiousat least three springs claim to be the beginnings of the mighty river
The Kamchiya River is no exception Theoretically it is only983092983094 kilometres long and flows through northeastern Bulgaria before joining the Black Sea at a particularly beautiful and terrifyinglymosquito-infested forest With its major tributary the Golyama orGrand Kamchiya the river is 1048626983092983092 kilometres long making it the983096th longest river in Bulgaria The official source of the GolyamaKamchiya ndash and of the Kamchiya ndash is in the Lisa Planina at analtitude of about 983095983089983088 metres above sea level
But there is a spot high up in the Stara Planina on the border ofits central and eastern parts which has gained popularity as the truesource of the Kamchiya It is where the second major tributaryof the river confusingly called the Luda or Crazy Kamchiya springsup as a tiny stream runs eastwards for 1048626983088983088 kilometres and joins theGolyama Kamchiya The Luda Kamchiya is the 983089983088th longest river inBulgaria
The popularity of the Luda Kamchiyas spring as the genuinebeginning of the Kamchiya River (are you already confused)
is probably due to its location It is in a pleasant and historicallysignificant spot the Vratnik Pass connecting Veliko Tarnovo andElena to the north with Sliven south of the Stara Planina
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Situated at an altitude of 983089983088983097983095 metres above sea level and being 983089983088kilometres long the Vratnik Pass used to be a main route through themountain The Romans built a road along it and in the Middle Agesa strong fort guarded it a frequent site of battles between Bulgariansand Byzantines The importance of the pass was mirrored in its nameZhelezni Vrata and Demir Kapiya mean Iron Gates in Bulgarian andTurkish resepctively The modern-day name of the pass Vratnik wasadopted in 9830899830979830921048626 and just means Gate
Today the pass is almost deserted as most drivers prefer to avoid thenarrow potholed road which zigzags through a thick forest Even insummer when you stop at the highest part of the pass to look for theKamchiyas source you will most probably find the place empty
Actually empty means empty of tourists The forest around thespring is the temporary home of of some Gypsies families dealing with lumberjacking and mushroom-pickingTheir ragged tents madeof old blankets and sheets of nylon are all over the place as are theheaps of household garbage
The scenery becomes almost surreal when mist descends drenchingthe forest in white and leaving only the dark trunks of the closesttrees visible
The Luda Kamchiyas spring is east of the road in a depressionhidden by tall trees Spectacular it is not as it is fed into a waterfountain The water fountain inscription however is grandiose Tothose fallen for freedom Glorify their sacred feat you unendinglyflowing Kamchiya
There is some justification for this Only 1048626 kilometres east of thespring is Aglikina Polyana or Aglikas Meadow where the Bulgarianhayduti or 983089983097th Century rebels used to meet They lived in themountains as far away from the Ottoman authorities as possibleexcept for when they attacked and robbed Ottoman convoys at the pass
Aglikina Polyana is heavily represented in Bulgarian heroic folklorehas a protected area status and hosts a regular folklore meeting
You can visit Aglikina Polyana from here but in any case be sure to
kneel at the water fountain which is the source of the Luda Kamchiyaand take a drink It is not that often that you can drink the cool clear waters of a river at its source
Top Semi-wild horses roam freely
around the Vratnik Pass
Bottom The beginnings of a 200-
kilometre Luda Kamchiya river
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Remote village pro983158idesunspoilt old-time atmosphere great ood by Violeta Rozova photography by Anthony Georgieff
Rural tourism in Bulgaria was barely known 1048626983088 years ago butin the early 1048626983088983088983088s it experienced an EU-funded boom But in thelate 1048626983088983088983088s the still ongoing economic crisis hit and now manyguesthouses are struggling to survive with the decreased numberof visitors In the western fringes of the Rhodope however is atraditional village which is still one of the best places for ruraltourism in Bulgaria
Leshten close to Gotse Delchev actually invented rural tourismin Bulgaria Since the mid-983089983097983097983088s it has been the first choice for anescape from the big city for all those interested in clean air delicioushealthy food and genuinely and intelligently preserved architecture
Truth to tell Leshten is hardly a village nowadays Only 983089983088 peoplelive there and most of them are septuagenarian In the 983089983097th and thefirst half of the 1048626983088th centuries however Leshten was a bustling placehome to more than 983093983088983088 people Unlike the inhabitants of nearbyKovachevitsa who built three- and four-storey mini fortresses to
protect their riches the people of Leshten were poor They had lessto lose and so they built houses of only two floors The ground level was for the livestock and the one above for the families
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Top A statue of two icecream
cones
Bottom The Buzludzha complex is
famous for its ghastly atmosphere
32
4
Kovachevitsa and Leshten both began to lose inhabitants at a greatrate after the Communist coup of 983089983097983092983092 when industrialisation andforced collectivisation striped the villagers of their livelihood andforced them to seek jobs in cities Kovachevitsa as a much grander village attracted the attention of Bulgarian film-makers in the 983089983097983095983088sand experienced a wave of new settlers mostly Sofia intellectuals who bought holiday homes there
Leshten was rediscovered much laterIn the mid-983089983097983097983088s a couple from Sofia found themselves in the
village with its ghostly and abandoned old houses They fell in love with Leshten as it had an unexpected advantage over crowd-pulling
Kovachevitsa Kovachevitsa is deep in the mountains and does nothave much of a vistaLeshten however has a marvellous view over the valley of the
Mesta River with the blue slopes of the Pirin defining the horizon983121uite unusually for the mid-983089983097983097983088s when everyone was either
leaving Bulgaria or flocking to Sofia where job prospects were betterthe couple moved to Leshten They bought some of the houses andturned them into holiday lets while preserving as much as possiblethe traditional architecture and opened one of the best restaurants
in Bulgaria This was in the long-disused local school next to thebeautiful and tiny St Paraskeva Church which dates from 9830899830963983094 and iscovered inside with primitive but captivating murals
1
1 The key to your room Each
detail in the 200-year old Leshten
houses has been preserved
2 3 The St Paraskeva Church
was built in 1837 and has been
listed as a local monument of
culture
4 Having breakfast while enjoying
the view to the Mesta Valley and
the Pirin is one of Leshtens many
pleasures
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The food in the tavern was locally sourced long before this became
fashionable Almost everything on the menu comes from the areafrom the wild berry juice and the thick sheeprsquos yoghurt to thetraditional egg noodles and the meatballs which are prepared not ofmince but of finely chopped meat
The restored traditional houses are on a par with the foods qualityIntelligently preserved yet having mod cons they smell of ageing wood geraniums and of woollen rugs warmed by the sun The wallsare whitewashed white linen curtains with embroidery shade the windows and the slightly crooked beams of the floor squeak quietly
under your feetRecently however more people decided to profit on Leshten
More houses were turned into hotels and as the competition grewone night the old school caught fire and burned to the ground Thetavern was re-established in a newer building with a beautiful viewof the Mesta Valley The food is still gorgeous the best the Rhodopeand the people living in these beautiful mountains can give you
This series of articles is supported by theAmerica for Bulgaria Foundation The
statements and opinions expressed herein
are those of the authors and do not necessarily
reflect the opinion of the America for Bulgaria
Foundation and its partners
1 Stone was used extensively in
building the houses of Leshten
and even the roofs are f rom rock
The technique was popular in
Bulgaria until the beginning of
the 20th Century but was later
abandoned It has been enjoying
a revival in recent years as surge
of interest in eco tourism has
brought it back to fashion
2 Leshten is a good basefor exploring of the Western
Rhodope with traditional villages
like Kovachevitsa and Dolen and
pristine wild nature all around
3 Fresco from St Paraskeva
Church with a didactic scene
advertising the advantages of
pious life
3
1
2
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Case study of senior Communist offi cialElena Lagadinova reveals unexpectedaspects of superpower confrontation
by Kristen Ghodsee all photographs courtesy of the author
One of the great ironies of the Cold War is that the twosuperpowers often championed issues that they cared little aboutin practice The East bloc defended the social rights of the worldrsquos workers while treating their own citizens like indentured servantsThe United States campaigned for political freedoms abroad whilebrutally oppressing or marginalising their own African-Americanand Native American populations at home Any rhetoric thatcould be deployed against the enemy became a weapon in the widerideological battle
Today historians and social scientists are studying the internationallegacies of these Cold War rivalries over social and politicalrights Whether it is labor conventions at the International LaborOrganisation political self-determination for previously colonisedcountries or the end to state-sanctioned racial discrimination in theUnited States or in apartheid-era South Africa the general scholarlyconsensus is that ordinary people ndash whether in the capitalist
Communist or developing worlds ndash benefitted from superpowercompetition An unintended consequence of American and Sovietgrandstanding was often real social progress
1
2
2
4
54
6 7
1 Elena The Amazon
Lagadinova in 1945
2 With Valentina Tereshkova
3 Delivering a speech in 1970
4 With the US activist Angela
Davis in 1972
5 Hosting a school for African
women leaders in Sofia in 1982
6 Lagadinova (left) with an
young Irina Bokova (right) at
the Third UN Conference on
Women in Nairobi in 1985
7 In Razlog with Kristen
Ghodsee in 2013
3
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Tousands o Hassidim gatherin Ukrainian city to celebrate
Jewish New Year by Dimana Trankova photography by Anthony Georgieff
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Dusty and drab devoid of any charm unless you count the 983089983096thCentury Sofyivka Park and the Georgian cheese pastries at the busstation the Ukrainian city of Uman would be a strong contender forthe most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe
But it is not the most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe ndash atleast not for a couple of days each year when it gets filled with joyfulcrowds of Ultra religious Jews flown in from as far as Canada BritainIsrael and Australia to celebrate the Jewish New Year usually inSeptember They all converge at Pushkin Street take out their heavyluggage and drag it to their rented rooms in small houses and tallSocialist apartment blocks Music is booming the smell of cookedfood comes from the tents of the openair eateries Happy people inthe streets greet each other smiling from ear to ear when they meetand embrace some old friend
Uman a city of roughly 983097983088983088983088983088 residents in western Ukraine is thefocus of pilgrimage for Hasidic Jews who come here to celebrate atthe tomb of one of their greatest spiritual leaders
Rebbe Nachman (9830899830959830951048626-983089983096983089983088) of Breslov was the great-grandson ofBaal Shem Tov the founder of Hasidism a conservative movementthat spread among the Ashkenazi Jews in Eastern Europe He showedthe first signs of having a special connection with the divine as earlyas 983089983095 and spent the next decades of his life moving around the areaof what is now western Ukraine and eastern Poland attractingfollowers Rebbe Nachmans travels even brought him to Palestine where he met and talked with prominent Jewish sages and scholars
In 9830899830969830881048626 he settled in Bratslav (as Breslov is more commonlyknown) and announced the creation of a new movement ofHasidism the Breslov Hasidism
When pilgrimage to Rebbe
Nachmans grave resumed in
the early 1990s the locals ofUman were amazed by the Rosh
Hashanah antics of visiting Jews
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Rebbe Nachman was incredibly popular but not everyone
liked him because of some of his more radical ideas one of whichencouraged people to feel free to find spiritual leaders for themselvesand to break with the tradition of the hereditary Hasidic dynastiesRebbe Nachman also encouraged the individual search for the divineHis teachings spread during tumultuous times The beginning of the983089983097th Century saw the spread of democratic ideas across Europe andfor the first time in centuries Jews enjoyed ndash at least theoretically ndashequal rights Many chose fuller integration into the modernEuropean society but for more conservative Jews these changesthreatened the foundation of their communities The teachingsof Rebbe Nachman were a sort of reaction to this trend blendingtradition with more individual freedom
Whether Rebbe Nachman thought of himself as a Messiah is stilla matter of dispute Some phrases from his teachings would makegreat Facebook quotes in todays era of soul-searching and positivethinking such as If you believe that you can damage then believethat you can fixrdquo or You are never given an obstacle you cannotovercome
In Breslov Rebbe Nachman saw his movement flourish andgrow with great crowds of followers assembling for feasts like RoshHashanah Chanukah or Shavuot when they eagerly listened to histeachings In 983089983096983089983088 however he had to move
Consumption had been devouring the still young Rebbe Nachmanfor some time and then his house was destroyed by fire He movedto nearby Uman a town of great significance for the local Jewishcommunity In 983089983095983094983096 about 1048626983088983088983088983088 Jews from Uman along withmany Poles and Uniate Ukrainians were killed by the UkrainianHaidamak rebels who had risen against the then Polish-LithuanianCommonwealth
1 Selling Rebbe Nachman-
themed techno music on Pushkin
Street
2 For many Breslov Hasidim the
pilgrimage is also an opportunity
to meet old friends and make
new ones
3 Rebbe Nachman is the
descendant of Baal Shem Tov the
founder of Hasidism a branch
of Orthodox Judaism wheremysticism is at the foundation of
spirituality
3
1
2
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Over the following two decades the Rosh Hashanah gatheringin Uman became ever stronger On average about 983089983088983088983088983088-983089983093983088983088983088Hasidim come to celebrate each year The atmosphere is festive in thestreets and tense around the grave of Rebbe Nachman and peopleare generally friendly even when they notice the odd tourist in thecrowd Many of the pilgrims get tipsy and dance to rave and rock
music booming from stalls gardens and balconies Children runto and fro carrying presents bought from the ramshackle openairmarket
There are signs however that these people are not the average partygoers The song lyrics are devoted to Rebbe Nachman Umanand Rosh Hashanah Shofars howl and the streets are lined withbarbers shaving the heads of pilgrims in the traditional way The posters on the walls announce the scheduled flights to and fromUman and the crowd is predominantly male
Sometimes there is violence Many locals are not happy with the pilgrims and the fact that many Hasidim have bought propertiesaround Pushkin Street introducing their very specific lifestyle Thereare complaints about the noise and the rubbish and the level ofsecurity 1048626983088983089983088 is remembered for several sometimes bloody fightsbetween locals and pilgrims Overall though visiting Uman for RoshHashanah can turn into the experience of a lifetime even for people with only a faint interest in Judaism The event is an immersion in abygone era right amid the post-Soviet reality of Ukraine
In 1048626983088983089983092 Rosh Hashanah begins at sunset on 1048626983092 September andends at nightfall of 1048626983094 September
Top After decades of
prosecution pilgrimage in Uman
is again safe and many children
mingle in the crowd
Bottom A Jewish boy tries his
brand new plastic gun bought
as a New Years present froma makeshift openair market in
Uman
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82
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150 984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143Stara Zagora50 Han Asparuh St Zagorka lakephone 042 985 555 042 985 555
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983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150983123983156983137983154983137 983130983137983143983151983154983137
Липи прави улици и дружелюбна
атмосфера в един от най-интересните градове на България
текст Димитър Ивановфотография Антони Георгиев
by Dimitar Ivanovphotography by Anthony Georgieff
Lindens straight streets and
fiendly atmosphere in one o themost interesting cities o Bulgaria
984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143984097984130984112984128984112 984087984112984115984126984128984112
Когато се чудите накъде да тръгнете в първите топлидни на есента Стара Загора е едно от най-добрите ре-шения Отдалечен на 10486263983088 км по магистрала Тракияградът е изключително близо за онези които живеят вСофия и предлага много повече спокойствие и зелени-на от столицата дружелюбна атмосфера приятни заве-дения и исторически и природни забележителностикоито да запълнят кратката ви ваканция
Стара Загора е един от най-старите градове в ЕвропаПървите хора се заселили тук около VII-VI хилядоле-тие пр Хр Около IV впрХр на мястото на съвремен-на Стара Загора се появява град на траките известен с
When you are wondering where to go for the first warm days of the autumn Stara Zagora is one of the bestsolutions About 10486263983088 km on the Trakiya Motorway thecity is close enough for those living in Sofia and offersmore serenity and greenery than the capital The city hasalso nice cafeacutes and restaurants and enough historical andnature sites to fill a short holiday
Stara Zagora is one of the oldest cities in EuropeThe fist people settled in the area around the 983095-983094thmillennia BC Around the 983092th Century BC on the placeof modern Stara Zagora appeared a settlement of theThracians which was called Beroe It was conquered by
phone 042 985 555 042 985 555reservationshotelstarazagoraeu
wwwhotelstarazagoraeu
The fi ve-star Park Hotel Stara Zagora is situated on the bank of the romantic Zagorka Lake in Stara Zagora
Hotel with 31 luxurious rooms two luxurious apartments and one VIP apartment
State-of-the-art SPA centre with swimming pool jacuzzi fitness hall steam bath sauna
Turkish bath and massage room
Six conference rooms with capacity between seven and 250 people equipped with multimedia
and other presentational technique and tools Orfeida Restaurant with amazing interior and a capacity for up to 150 people plus a summer and a winter garden
Park for biking fishing boating jogging and other sports and activities
All dreams lead toPark Hotel Stara Zagora
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
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where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
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30 31
This publicity did not have any impact on the island itself In the983089983097983094983088s Bolshevik Island became a place of recreation for the artisticcircles of Burgas but the buildings fell into disrepair and soon theonly thing still intact on the island was the lighthouse The currentlighthouse which was supplied with electricity as late as the 983089983097983094983088sdates back to 983089983096983096983097 with a major facelift in 983089983097983089983092
After the democratic changes of 983089983097983096983097 Bolshevik Island became StAnastasia Island once more The regular boat services however were
discontinued and decay overtook the former monastic and prisonbuildings St Anastasia became a ghostly place which a handful of visitors per year could reach only if they hired a fisherman to bringthem to the island A basic tavern provided even more basic foodand the more adventurous slept in the dilapidated rooms of themonastery
The desolation and decay of St Anastasia are captured withdocumentary precision in Kamen Kalevs 1048626983088983089983089 feature movie he
Island
In 1048626983088983089983092 however the Burgas City Council completed a majorreconstruction project on the island The monastery buildingshave been restored and renovated there is better accommodationfor visitors who decide to spend the night on the island and therestaurant has been improved and the tourist infrastructure includesa small museum and a medieval pharmacy where local herbs aregrown
Reaching the island is easier with regular boats leaving several timesa day from the renovated Burgas Pier The crossing takes under an
hour and makes for a lovely day trip out of Burgas The St AnastasiaIslands turbulent history seems to have been provided with a happyending
1 The lighthouse of St Anastasia
Island was built in the 1880s by a
French company but the tower is
from 1912 In the waters nearby
stands one of the geological
curiosities of the island The
Mushroom rock
2 The regular tourist boats to StAnastasia start from the renovated
pier of Burgas
3 Founded in the 16th Century
the monastery and its church
suffered heavily from pirate
raids and were renovated at the
beginning of the 19th Century In
1923 the monastery was turned
into a prison
4 Rusting remains from periods
of desolation Today St Anastasiais a welcoming place with a nice
restaurant and a multimedia
museum
1 3
4
2
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Magical Rhodope site tells storieso Dionysus Alexander the Great
and Augustus
by Bozhidara Georgieva photography by Anthony Georgieff
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Covering more than 983093 square kilometres Perperikon is the biggestmegalithic site in the Balkans
The first people arrived here 983096983088983088983088 years ago and carved the rocksso they could fill the crevices with fragments of pots as offerings tothe unknown deities or spirits they believed in Then these people
disappeared from Perperikon After a hiatus of about 983089983088983088983088 years atthe end of the 983093th and the beginning of the 983092th millennia BC thehill again became the focal point of religious activity In the 983089983096th-9830891048626thcenturies BC the sanctuary was already so extensive and famous thatartefacts belonging to the Minoan and Mycenaean civilisations arenow found there
Perperikon experienced a decline in the 983092th-983089st centuries BCbut when the Romans took over Thrace activity resumed and newbuildings adorned the hill In the 983094th Century however Christianity
took over and the sanctuary was abandoned Unlike other pagansacred places in the Balkans Perperikon did not fall completelysilent
Christians moved into the empty shrines built churches over themand turned Perperikon into the stronghold of local bishops It allcame to an end in 98308939830941048626 when the Ottomans invaded and people leftPerperikon for good leaving the hill to nature which soon swallowedup the remains of the churches and the Thracian shrines
The site was rediscovered by archaeologists in the 1048626983088th Century
but Perperikon only became a household name in the early 1048626983088983088983088s when excavations started again and the theory that it had belonged tothe Oracle of Dionysus was promoted as a proven fact
Previous spread Remains of cult
pits and graves in the bedrock
Perperikon was built on solid rock
so the bases of each building and
even the graves were hewn in
the stone
Deciphering the traces in the
bedrock is not easy Some believe
that the pits covering the surface
of Perperikon were only for ritual
purposes Actually most weremade to support columns of
buildings or to store food and
liquids
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Major river breaks outin Stara Planina heading
towards Black Seaby Minka Vazkresenska photography by Anthony Georgieff
How to define the source of a river is often a tough question toanswer Is it where water springs from the ground for the first timeor is it the place where two or more streams merge into a larger flowEven the source of the Danube Europes largest river is contentiousat least three springs claim to be the beginnings of the mighty river
The Kamchiya River is no exception Theoretically it is only983092983094 kilometres long and flows through northeastern Bulgaria before joining the Black Sea at a particularly beautiful and terrifyinglymosquito-infested forest With its major tributary the Golyama orGrand Kamchiya the river is 1048626983092983092 kilometres long making it the983096th longest river in Bulgaria The official source of the GolyamaKamchiya ndash and of the Kamchiya ndash is in the Lisa Planina at analtitude of about 983095983089983088 metres above sea level
But there is a spot high up in the Stara Planina on the border ofits central and eastern parts which has gained popularity as the truesource of the Kamchiya It is where the second major tributaryof the river confusingly called the Luda or Crazy Kamchiya springsup as a tiny stream runs eastwards for 1048626983088983088 kilometres and joins theGolyama Kamchiya The Luda Kamchiya is the 983089983088th longest river inBulgaria
The popularity of the Luda Kamchiyas spring as the genuinebeginning of the Kamchiya River (are you already confused)
is probably due to its location It is in a pleasant and historicallysignificant spot the Vratnik Pass connecting Veliko Tarnovo andElena to the north with Sliven south of the Stara Planina
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Situated at an altitude of 983089983088983097983095 metres above sea level and being 983089983088kilometres long the Vratnik Pass used to be a main route through themountain The Romans built a road along it and in the Middle Agesa strong fort guarded it a frequent site of battles between Bulgariansand Byzantines The importance of the pass was mirrored in its nameZhelezni Vrata and Demir Kapiya mean Iron Gates in Bulgarian andTurkish resepctively The modern-day name of the pass Vratnik wasadopted in 9830899830979830921048626 and just means Gate
Today the pass is almost deserted as most drivers prefer to avoid thenarrow potholed road which zigzags through a thick forest Even insummer when you stop at the highest part of the pass to look for theKamchiyas source you will most probably find the place empty
Actually empty means empty of tourists The forest around thespring is the temporary home of of some Gypsies families dealing with lumberjacking and mushroom-pickingTheir ragged tents madeof old blankets and sheets of nylon are all over the place as are theheaps of household garbage
The scenery becomes almost surreal when mist descends drenchingthe forest in white and leaving only the dark trunks of the closesttrees visible
The Luda Kamchiyas spring is east of the road in a depressionhidden by tall trees Spectacular it is not as it is fed into a waterfountain The water fountain inscription however is grandiose Tothose fallen for freedom Glorify their sacred feat you unendinglyflowing Kamchiya
There is some justification for this Only 1048626 kilometres east of thespring is Aglikina Polyana or Aglikas Meadow where the Bulgarianhayduti or 983089983097th Century rebels used to meet They lived in themountains as far away from the Ottoman authorities as possibleexcept for when they attacked and robbed Ottoman convoys at the pass
Aglikina Polyana is heavily represented in Bulgarian heroic folklorehas a protected area status and hosts a regular folklore meeting
You can visit Aglikina Polyana from here but in any case be sure to
kneel at the water fountain which is the source of the Luda Kamchiyaand take a drink It is not that often that you can drink the cool clear waters of a river at its source
Top Semi-wild horses roam freely
around the Vratnik Pass
Bottom The beginnings of a 200-
kilometre Luda Kamchiya river
46 47
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Remote village pro983158idesunspoilt old-time atmosphere great ood by Violeta Rozova photography by Anthony Georgieff
Rural tourism in Bulgaria was barely known 1048626983088 years ago butin the early 1048626983088983088983088s it experienced an EU-funded boom But in thelate 1048626983088983088983088s the still ongoing economic crisis hit and now manyguesthouses are struggling to survive with the decreased numberof visitors In the western fringes of the Rhodope however is atraditional village which is still one of the best places for ruraltourism in Bulgaria
Leshten close to Gotse Delchev actually invented rural tourismin Bulgaria Since the mid-983089983097983097983088s it has been the first choice for anescape from the big city for all those interested in clean air delicioushealthy food and genuinely and intelligently preserved architecture
Truth to tell Leshten is hardly a village nowadays Only 983089983088 peoplelive there and most of them are septuagenarian In the 983089983097th and thefirst half of the 1048626983088th centuries however Leshten was a bustling placehome to more than 983093983088983088 people Unlike the inhabitants of nearbyKovachevitsa who built three- and four-storey mini fortresses to
protect their riches the people of Leshten were poor They had lessto lose and so they built houses of only two floors The ground level was for the livestock and the one above for the families
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Top A statue of two icecream
cones
Bottom The Buzludzha complex is
famous for its ghastly atmosphere
32
4
Kovachevitsa and Leshten both began to lose inhabitants at a greatrate after the Communist coup of 983089983097983092983092 when industrialisation andforced collectivisation striped the villagers of their livelihood andforced them to seek jobs in cities Kovachevitsa as a much grander village attracted the attention of Bulgarian film-makers in the 983089983097983095983088sand experienced a wave of new settlers mostly Sofia intellectuals who bought holiday homes there
Leshten was rediscovered much laterIn the mid-983089983097983097983088s a couple from Sofia found themselves in the
village with its ghostly and abandoned old houses They fell in love with Leshten as it had an unexpected advantage over crowd-pulling
Kovachevitsa Kovachevitsa is deep in the mountains and does nothave much of a vistaLeshten however has a marvellous view over the valley of the
Mesta River with the blue slopes of the Pirin defining the horizon983121uite unusually for the mid-983089983097983097983088s when everyone was either
leaving Bulgaria or flocking to Sofia where job prospects were betterthe couple moved to Leshten They bought some of the houses andturned them into holiday lets while preserving as much as possiblethe traditional architecture and opened one of the best restaurants
in Bulgaria This was in the long-disused local school next to thebeautiful and tiny St Paraskeva Church which dates from 9830899830963983094 and iscovered inside with primitive but captivating murals
1
1 The key to your room Each
detail in the 200-year old Leshten
houses has been preserved
2 3 The St Paraskeva Church
was built in 1837 and has been
listed as a local monument of
culture
4 Having breakfast while enjoying
the view to the Mesta Valley and
the Pirin is one of Leshtens many
pleasures
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The food in the tavern was locally sourced long before this became
fashionable Almost everything on the menu comes from the areafrom the wild berry juice and the thick sheeprsquos yoghurt to thetraditional egg noodles and the meatballs which are prepared not ofmince but of finely chopped meat
The restored traditional houses are on a par with the foods qualityIntelligently preserved yet having mod cons they smell of ageing wood geraniums and of woollen rugs warmed by the sun The wallsare whitewashed white linen curtains with embroidery shade the windows and the slightly crooked beams of the floor squeak quietly
under your feetRecently however more people decided to profit on Leshten
More houses were turned into hotels and as the competition grewone night the old school caught fire and burned to the ground Thetavern was re-established in a newer building with a beautiful viewof the Mesta Valley The food is still gorgeous the best the Rhodopeand the people living in these beautiful mountains can give you
This series of articles is supported by theAmerica for Bulgaria Foundation The
statements and opinions expressed herein
are those of the authors and do not necessarily
reflect the opinion of the America for Bulgaria
Foundation and its partners
1 Stone was used extensively in
building the houses of Leshten
and even the roofs are f rom rock
The technique was popular in
Bulgaria until the beginning of
the 20th Century but was later
abandoned It has been enjoying
a revival in recent years as surge
of interest in eco tourism has
brought it back to fashion
2 Leshten is a good basefor exploring of the Western
Rhodope with traditional villages
like Kovachevitsa and Dolen and
pristine wild nature all around
3 Fresco from St Paraskeva
Church with a didactic scene
advertising the advantages of
pious life
3
1
2
52 53
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Case study of senior Communist offi cialElena Lagadinova reveals unexpectedaspects of superpower confrontation
by Kristen Ghodsee all photographs courtesy of the author
One of the great ironies of the Cold War is that the twosuperpowers often championed issues that they cared little aboutin practice The East bloc defended the social rights of the worldrsquos workers while treating their own citizens like indentured servantsThe United States campaigned for political freedoms abroad whilebrutally oppressing or marginalising their own African-Americanand Native American populations at home Any rhetoric thatcould be deployed against the enemy became a weapon in the widerideological battle
Today historians and social scientists are studying the internationallegacies of these Cold War rivalries over social and politicalrights Whether it is labor conventions at the International LaborOrganisation political self-determination for previously colonisedcountries or the end to state-sanctioned racial discrimination in theUnited States or in apartheid-era South Africa the general scholarlyconsensus is that ordinary people ndash whether in the capitalist
Communist or developing worlds ndash benefitted from superpowercompetition An unintended consequence of American and Sovietgrandstanding was often real social progress
1
2
2
4
54
6 7
1 Elena The Amazon
Lagadinova in 1945
2 With Valentina Tereshkova
3 Delivering a speech in 1970
4 With the US activist Angela
Davis in 1972
5 Hosting a school for African
women leaders in Sofia in 1982
6 Lagadinova (left) with an
young Irina Bokova (right) at
the Third UN Conference on
Women in Nairobi in 1985
7 In Razlog with Kristen
Ghodsee in 2013
3
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Tousands o Hassidim gatherin Ukrainian city to celebrate
Jewish New Year by Dimana Trankova photography by Anthony Georgieff
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Dusty and drab devoid of any charm unless you count the 983089983096thCentury Sofyivka Park and the Georgian cheese pastries at the busstation the Ukrainian city of Uman would be a strong contender forthe most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe
But it is not the most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe ndash atleast not for a couple of days each year when it gets filled with joyfulcrowds of Ultra religious Jews flown in from as far as Canada BritainIsrael and Australia to celebrate the Jewish New Year usually inSeptember They all converge at Pushkin Street take out their heavyluggage and drag it to their rented rooms in small houses and tallSocialist apartment blocks Music is booming the smell of cookedfood comes from the tents of the openair eateries Happy people inthe streets greet each other smiling from ear to ear when they meetand embrace some old friend
Uman a city of roughly 983097983088983088983088983088 residents in western Ukraine is thefocus of pilgrimage for Hasidic Jews who come here to celebrate atthe tomb of one of their greatest spiritual leaders
Rebbe Nachman (9830899830959830951048626-983089983096983089983088) of Breslov was the great-grandson ofBaal Shem Tov the founder of Hasidism a conservative movementthat spread among the Ashkenazi Jews in Eastern Europe He showedthe first signs of having a special connection with the divine as earlyas 983089983095 and spent the next decades of his life moving around the areaof what is now western Ukraine and eastern Poland attractingfollowers Rebbe Nachmans travels even brought him to Palestine where he met and talked with prominent Jewish sages and scholars
In 9830899830969830881048626 he settled in Bratslav (as Breslov is more commonlyknown) and announced the creation of a new movement ofHasidism the Breslov Hasidism
When pilgrimage to Rebbe
Nachmans grave resumed in
the early 1990s the locals ofUman were amazed by the Rosh
Hashanah antics of visiting Jews
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Rebbe Nachman was incredibly popular but not everyone
liked him because of some of his more radical ideas one of whichencouraged people to feel free to find spiritual leaders for themselvesand to break with the tradition of the hereditary Hasidic dynastiesRebbe Nachman also encouraged the individual search for the divineHis teachings spread during tumultuous times The beginning of the983089983097th Century saw the spread of democratic ideas across Europe andfor the first time in centuries Jews enjoyed ndash at least theoretically ndashequal rights Many chose fuller integration into the modernEuropean society but for more conservative Jews these changesthreatened the foundation of their communities The teachingsof Rebbe Nachman were a sort of reaction to this trend blendingtradition with more individual freedom
Whether Rebbe Nachman thought of himself as a Messiah is stilla matter of dispute Some phrases from his teachings would makegreat Facebook quotes in todays era of soul-searching and positivethinking such as If you believe that you can damage then believethat you can fixrdquo or You are never given an obstacle you cannotovercome
In Breslov Rebbe Nachman saw his movement flourish andgrow with great crowds of followers assembling for feasts like RoshHashanah Chanukah or Shavuot when they eagerly listened to histeachings In 983089983096983089983088 however he had to move
Consumption had been devouring the still young Rebbe Nachmanfor some time and then his house was destroyed by fire He movedto nearby Uman a town of great significance for the local Jewishcommunity In 983089983095983094983096 about 1048626983088983088983088983088 Jews from Uman along withmany Poles and Uniate Ukrainians were killed by the UkrainianHaidamak rebels who had risen against the then Polish-LithuanianCommonwealth
1 Selling Rebbe Nachman-
themed techno music on Pushkin
Street
2 For many Breslov Hasidim the
pilgrimage is also an opportunity
to meet old friends and make
new ones
3 Rebbe Nachman is the
descendant of Baal Shem Tov the
founder of Hasidism a branch
of Orthodox Judaism wheremysticism is at the foundation of
spirituality
3
1
2
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Over the following two decades the Rosh Hashanah gatheringin Uman became ever stronger On average about 983089983088983088983088983088-983089983093983088983088983088Hasidim come to celebrate each year The atmosphere is festive in thestreets and tense around the grave of Rebbe Nachman and peopleare generally friendly even when they notice the odd tourist in thecrowd Many of the pilgrims get tipsy and dance to rave and rock
music booming from stalls gardens and balconies Children runto and fro carrying presents bought from the ramshackle openairmarket
There are signs however that these people are not the average partygoers The song lyrics are devoted to Rebbe Nachman Umanand Rosh Hashanah Shofars howl and the streets are lined withbarbers shaving the heads of pilgrims in the traditional way The posters on the walls announce the scheduled flights to and fromUman and the crowd is predominantly male
Sometimes there is violence Many locals are not happy with the pilgrims and the fact that many Hasidim have bought propertiesaround Pushkin Street introducing their very specific lifestyle Thereare complaints about the noise and the rubbish and the level ofsecurity 1048626983088983089983088 is remembered for several sometimes bloody fightsbetween locals and pilgrims Overall though visiting Uman for RoshHashanah can turn into the experience of a lifetime even for people with only a faint interest in Judaism The event is an immersion in abygone era right amid the post-Soviet reality of Ukraine
In 1048626983088983089983092 Rosh Hashanah begins at sunset on 1048626983092 September andends at nightfall of 1048626983094 September
Top After decades of
prosecution pilgrimage in Uman
is again safe and many children
mingle in the crowd
Bottom A Jewish boy tries his
brand new plastic gun bought
as a New Years present froma makeshift openair market in
Uman
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82
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150 984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143Stara Zagora50 Han Asparuh St Zagorka lakephone 042 985 555 042 985 555
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983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150983123983156983137983154983137 983130983137983143983151983154983137
Липи прави улици и дружелюбна
атмосфера в един от най-интересните градове на България
текст Димитър Ивановфотография Антони Георгиев
by Dimitar Ivanovphotography by Anthony Georgieff
Lindens straight streets and
fiendly atmosphere in one o themost interesting cities o Bulgaria
984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143984097984130984112984128984112 984087984112984115984126984128984112
Когато се чудите накъде да тръгнете в първите топлидни на есента Стара Загора е едно от най-добрите ре-шения Отдалечен на 10486263983088 км по магистрала Тракияградът е изключително близо за онези които живеят вСофия и предлага много повече спокойствие и зелени-на от столицата дружелюбна атмосфера приятни заве-дения и исторически и природни забележителностикоито да запълнят кратката ви ваканция
Стара Загора е един от най-старите градове в ЕвропаПървите хора се заселили тук около VII-VI хилядоле-тие пр Хр Около IV впрХр на мястото на съвремен-на Стара Загора се появява град на траките известен с
When you are wondering where to go for the first warm days of the autumn Stara Zagora is one of the bestsolutions About 10486263983088 km on the Trakiya Motorway thecity is close enough for those living in Sofia and offersmore serenity and greenery than the capital The city hasalso nice cafeacutes and restaurants and enough historical andnature sites to fill a short holiday
Stara Zagora is one of the oldest cities in EuropeThe fist people settled in the area around the 983095-983094thmillennia BC Around the 983092th Century BC on the placeof modern Stara Zagora appeared a settlement of theThracians which was called Beroe It was conquered by
phone 042 985 555 042 985 555reservationshotelstarazagoraeu
wwwhotelstarazagoraeu
The fi ve-star Park Hotel Stara Zagora is situated on the bank of the romantic Zagorka Lake in Stara Zagora
Hotel with 31 luxurious rooms two luxurious apartments and one VIP apartment
State-of-the-art SPA centre with swimming pool jacuzzi fitness hall steam bath sauna
Turkish bath and massage room
Six conference rooms with capacity between seven and 250 people equipped with multimedia
and other presentational technique and tools Orfeida Restaurant with amazing interior and a capacity for up to 150 people plus a summer and a winter garden
Park for biking fishing boating jogging and other sports and activities
All dreams lead toPark Hotel Stara Zagora
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
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where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
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30 31
This publicity did not have any impact on the island itself In the983089983097983094983088s Bolshevik Island became a place of recreation for the artisticcircles of Burgas but the buildings fell into disrepair and soon theonly thing still intact on the island was the lighthouse The currentlighthouse which was supplied with electricity as late as the 983089983097983094983088sdates back to 983089983096983096983097 with a major facelift in 983089983097983089983092
After the democratic changes of 983089983097983096983097 Bolshevik Island became StAnastasia Island once more The regular boat services however were
discontinued and decay overtook the former monastic and prisonbuildings St Anastasia became a ghostly place which a handful of visitors per year could reach only if they hired a fisherman to bringthem to the island A basic tavern provided even more basic foodand the more adventurous slept in the dilapidated rooms of themonastery
The desolation and decay of St Anastasia are captured withdocumentary precision in Kamen Kalevs 1048626983088983089983089 feature movie he
Island
In 1048626983088983089983092 however the Burgas City Council completed a majorreconstruction project on the island The monastery buildingshave been restored and renovated there is better accommodationfor visitors who decide to spend the night on the island and therestaurant has been improved and the tourist infrastructure includesa small museum and a medieval pharmacy where local herbs aregrown
Reaching the island is easier with regular boats leaving several timesa day from the renovated Burgas Pier The crossing takes under an
hour and makes for a lovely day trip out of Burgas The St AnastasiaIslands turbulent history seems to have been provided with a happyending
1 The lighthouse of St Anastasia
Island was built in the 1880s by a
French company but the tower is
from 1912 In the waters nearby
stands one of the geological
curiosities of the island The
Mushroom rock
2 The regular tourist boats to StAnastasia start from the renovated
pier of Burgas
3 Founded in the 16th Century
the monastery and its church
suffered heavily from pirate
raids and were renovated at the
beginning of the 19th Century In
1923 the monastery was turned
into a prison
4 Rusting remains from periods
of desolation Today St Anastasiais a welcoming place with a nice
restaurant and a multimedia
museum
1 3
4
2
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Magical Rhodope site tells storieso Dionysus Alexander the Great
and Augustus
by Bozhidara Georgieva photography by Anthony Georgieff
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Covering more than 983093 square kilometres Perperikon is the biggestmegalithic site in the Balkans
The first people arrived here 983096983088983088983088 years ago and carved the rocksso they could fill the crevices with fragments of pots as offerings tothe unknown deities or spirits they believed in Then these people
disappeared from Perperikon After a hiatus of about 983089983088983088983088 years atthe end of the 983093th and the beginning of the 983092th millennia BC thehill again became the focal point of religious activity In the 983089983096th-9830891048626thcenturies BC the sanctuary was already so extensive and famous thatartefacts belonging to the Minoan and Mycenaean civilisations arenow found there
Perperikon experienced a decline in the 983092th-983089st centuries BCbut when the Romans took over Thrace activity resumed and newbuildings adorned the hill In the 983094th Century however Christianity
took over and the sanctuary was abandoned Unlike other pagansacred places in the Balkans Perperikon did not fall completelysilent
Christians moved into the empty shrines built churches over themand turned Perperikon into the stronghold of local bishops It allcame to an end in 98308939830941048626 when the Ottomans invaded and people leftPerperikon for good leaving the hill to nature which soon swallowedup the remains of the churches and the Thracian shrines
The site was rediscovered by archaeologists in the 1048626983088th Century
but Perperikon only became a household name in the early 1048626983088983088983088s when excavations started again and the theory that it had belonged tothe Oracle of Dionysus was promoted as a proven fact
Previous spread Remains of cult
pits and graves in the bedrock
Perperikon was built on solid rock
so the bases of each building and
even the graves were hewn in
the stone
Deciphering the traces in the
bedrock is not easy Some believe
that the pits covering the surface
of Perperikon were only for ritual
purposes Actually most weremade to support columns of
buildings or to store food and
liquids
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Major river breaks outin Stara Planina heading
towards Black Seaby Minka Vazkresenska photography by Anthony Georgieff
How to define the source of a river is often a tough question toanswer Is it where water springs from the ground for the first timeor is it the place where two or more streams merge into a larger flowEven the source of the Danube Europes largest river is contentiousat least three springs claim to be the beginnings of the mighty river
The Kamchiya River is no exception Theoretically it is only983092983094 kilometres long and flows through northeastern Bulgaria before joining the Black Sea at a particularly beautiful and terrifyinglymosquito-infested forest With its major tributary the Golyama orGrand Kamchiya the river is 1048626983092983092 kilometres long making it the983096th longest river in Bulgaria The official source of the GolyamaKamchiya ndash and of the Kamchiya ndash is in the Lisa Planina at analtitude of about 983095983089983088 metres above sea level
But there is a spot high up in the Stara Planina on the border ofits central and eastern parts which has gained popularity as the truesource of the Kamchiya It is where the second major tributaryof the river confusingly called the Luda or Crazy Kamchiya springsup as a tiny stream runs eastwards for 1048626983088983088 kilometres and joins theGolyama Kamchiya The Luda Kamchiya is the 983089983088th longest river inBulgaria
The popularity of the Luda Kamchiyas spring as the genuinebeginning of the Kamchiya River (are you already confused)
is probably due to its location It is in a pleasant and historicallysignificant spot the Vratnik Pass connecting Veliko Tarnovo andElena to the north with Sliven south of the Stara Planina
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Situated at an altitude of 983089983088983097983095 metres above sea level and being 983089983088kilometres long the Vratnik Pass used to be a main route through themountain The Romans built a road along it and in the Middle Agesa strong fort guarded it a frequent site of battles between Bulgariansand Byzantines The importance of the pass was mirrored in its nameZhelezni Vrata and Demir Kapiya mean Iron Gates in Bulgarian andTurkish resepctively The modern-day name of the pass Vratnik wasadopted in 9830899830979830921048626 and just means Gate
Today the pass is almost deserted as most drivers prefer to avoid thenarrow potholed road which zigzags through a thick forest Even insummer when you stop at the highest part of the pass to look for theKamchiyas source you will most probably find the place empty
Actually empty means empty of tourists The forest around thespring is the temporary home of of some Gypsies families dealing with lumberjacking and mushroom-pickingTheir ragged tents madeof old blankets and sheets of nylon are all over the place as are theheaps of household garbage
The scenery becomes almost surreal when mist descends drenchingthe forest in white and leaving only the dark trunks of the closesttrees visible
The Luda Kamchiyas spring is east of the road in a depressionhidden by tall trees Spectacular it is not as it is fed into a waterfountain The water fountain inscription however is grandiose Tothose fallen for freedom Glorify their sacred feat you unendinglyflowing Kamchiya
There is some justification for this Only 1048626 kilometres east of thespring is Aglikina Polyana or Aglikas Meadow where the Bulgarianhayduti or 983089983097th Century rebels used to meet They lived in themountains as far away from the Ottoman authorities as possibleexcept for when they attacked and robbed Ottoman convoys at the pass
Aglikina Polyana is heavily represented in Bulgarian heroic folklorehas a protected area status and hosts a regular folklore meeting
You can visit Aglikina Polyana from here but in any case be sure to
kneel at the water fountain which is the source of the Luda Kamchiyaand take a drink It is not that often that you can drink the cool clear waters of a river at its source
Top Semi-wild horses roam freely
around the Vratnik Pass
Bottom The beginnings of a 200-
kilometre Luda Kamchiya river
46 47
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Remote village pro983158idesunspoilt old-time atmosphere great ood by Violeta Rozova photography by Anthony Georgieff
Rural tourism in Bulgaria was barely known 1048626983088 years ago butin the early 1048626983088983088983088s it experienced an EU-funded boom But in thelate 1048626983088983088983088s the still ongoing economic crisis hit and now manyguesthouses are struggling to survive with the decreased numberof visitors In the western fringes of the Rhodope however is atraditional village which is still one of the best places for ruraltourism in Bulgaria
Leshten close to Gotse Delchev actually invented rural tourismin Bulgaria Since the mid-983089983097983097983088s it has been the first choice for anescape from the big city for all those interested in clean air delicioushealthy food and genuinely and intelligently preserved architecture
Truth to tell Leshten is hardly a village nowadays Only 983089983088 peoplelive there and most of them are septuagenarian In the 983089983097th and thefirst half of the 1048626983088th centuries however Leshten was a bustling placehome to more than 983093983088983088 people Unlike the inhabitants of nearbyKovachevitsa who built three- and four-storey mini fortresses to
protect their riches the people of Leshten were poor They had lessto lose and so they built houses of only two floors The ground level was for the livestock and the one above for the families
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Top A statue of two icecream
cones
Bottom The Buzludzha complex is
famous for its ghastly atmosphere
32
4
Kovachevitsa and Leshten both began to lose inhabitants at a greatrate after the Communist coup of 983089983097983092983092 when industrialisation andforced collectivisation striped the villagers of their livelihood andforced them to seek jobs in cities Kovachevitsa as a much grander village attracted the attention of Bulgarian film-makers in the 983089983097983095983088sand experienced a wave of new settlers mostly Sofia intellectuals who bought holiday homes there
Leshten was rediscovered much laterIn the mid-983089983097983097983088s a couple from Sofia found themselves in the
village with its ghostly and abandoned old houses They fell in love with Leshten as it had an unexpected advantage over crowd-pulling
Kovachevitsa Kovachevitsa is deep in the mountains and does nothave much of a vistaLeshten however has a marvellous view over the valley of the
Mesta River with the blue slopes of the Pirin defining the horizon983121uite unusually for the mid-983089983097983097983088s when everyone was either
leaving Bulgaria or flocking to Sofia where job prospects were betterthe couple moved to Leshten They bought some of the houses andturned them into holiday lets while preserving as much as possiblethe traditional architecture and opened one of the best restaurants
in Bulgaria This was in the long-disused local school next to thebeautiful and tiny St Paraskeva Church which dates from 9830899830963983094 and iscovered inside with primitive but captivating murals
1
1 The key to your room Each
detail in the 200-year old Leshten
houses has been preserved
2 3 The St Paraskeva Church
was built in 1837 and has been
listed as a local monument of
culture
4 Having breakfast while enjoying
the view to the Mesta Valley and
the Pirin is one of Leshtens many
pleasures
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The food in the tavern was locally sourced long before this became
fashionable Almost everything on the menu comes from the areafrom the wild berry juice and the thick sheeprsquos yoghurt to thetraditional egg noodles and the meatballs which are prepared not ofmince but of finely chopped meat
The restored traditional houses are on a par with the foods qualityIntelligently preserved yet having mod cons they smell of ageing wood geraniums and of woollen rugs warmed by the sun The wallsare whitewashed white linen curtains with embroidery shade the windows and the slightly crooked beams of the floor squeak quietly
under your feetRecently however more people decided to profit on Leshten
More houses were turned into hotels and as the competition grewone night the old school caught fire and burned to the ground Thetavern was re-established in a newer building with a beautiful viewof the Mesta Valley The food is still gorgeous the best the Rhodopeand the people living in these beautiful mountains can give you
This series of articles is supported by theAmerica for Bulgaria Foundation The
statements and opinions expressed herein
are those of the authors and do not necessarily
reflect the opinion of the America for Bulgaria
Foundation and its partners
1 Stone was used extensively in
building the houses of Leshten
and even the roofs are f rom rock
The technique was popular in
Bulgaria until the beginning of
the 20th Century but was later
abandoned It has been enjoying
a revival in recent years as surge
of interest in eco tourism has
brought it back to fashion
2 Leshten is a good basefor exploring of the Western
Rhodope with traditional villages
like Kovachevitsa and Dolen and
pristine wild nature all around
3 Fresco from St Paraskeva
Church with a didactic scene
advertising the advantages of
pious life
3
1
2
52 53
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Case study of senior Communist offi cialElena Lagadinova reveals unexpectedaspects of superpower confrontation
by Kristen Ghodsee all photographs courtesy of the author
One of the great ironies of the Cold War is that the twosuperpowers often championed issues that they cared little aboutin practice The East bloc defended the social rights of the worldrsquos workers while treating their own citizens like indentured servantsThe United States campaigned for political freedoms abroad whilebrutally oppressing or marginalising their own African-Americanand Native American populations at home Any rhetoric thatcould be deployed against the enemy became a weapon in the widerideological battle
Today historians and social scientists are studying the internationallegacies of these Cold War rivalries over social and politicalrights Whether it is labor conventions at the International LaborOrganisation political self-determination for previously colonisedcountries or the end to state-sanctioned racial discrimination in theUnited States or in apartheid-era South Africa the general scholarlyconsensus is that ordinary people ndash whether in the capitalist
Communist or developing worlds ndash benefitted from superpowercompetition An unintended consequence of American and Sovietgrandstanding was often real social progress
1
2
2
4
54
6 7
1 Elena The Amazon
Lagadinova in 1945
2 With Valentina Tereshkova
3 Delivering a speech in 1970
4 With the US activist Angela
Davis in 1972
5 Hosting a school for African
women leaders in Sofia in 1982
6 Lagadinova (left) with an
young Irina Bokova (right) at
the Third UN Conference on
Women in Nairobi in 1985
7 In Razlog with Kristen
Ghodsee in 2013
3
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Tousands o Hassidim gatherin Ukrainian city to celebrate
Jewish New Year by Dimana Trankova photography by Anthony Georgieff
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Dusty and drab devoid of any charm unless you count the 983089983096thCentury Sofyivka Park and the Georgian cheese pastries at the busstation the Ukrainian city of Uman would be a strong contender forthe most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe
But it is not the most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe ndash atleast not for a couple of days each year when it gets filled with joyfulcrowds of Ultra religious Jews flown in from as far as Canada BritainIsrael and Australia to celebrate the Jewish New Year usually inSeptember They all converge at Pushkin Street take out their heavyluggage and drag it to their rented rooms in small houses and tallSocialist apartment blocks Music is booming the smell of cookedfood comes from the tents of the openair eateries Happy people inthe streets greet each other smiling from ear to ear when they meetand embrace some old friend
Uman a city of roughly 983097983088983088983088983088 residents in western Ukraine is thefocus of pilgrimage for Hasidic Jews who come here to celebrate atthe tomb of one of their greatest spiritual leaders
Rebbe Nachman (9830899830959830951048626-983089983096983089983088) of Breslov was the great-grandson ofBaal Shem Tov the founder of Hasidism a conservative movementthat spread among the Ashkenazi Jews in Eastern Europe He showedthe first signs of having a special connection with the divine as earlyas 983089983095 and spent the next decades of his life moving around the areaof what is now western Ukraine and eastern Poland attractingfollowers Rebbe Nachmans travels even brought him to Palestine where he met and talked with prominent Jewish sages and scholars
In 9830899830969830881048626 he settled in Bratslav (as Breslov is more commonlyknown) and announced the creation of a new movement ofHasidism the Breslov Hasidism
When pilgrimage to Rebbe
Nachmans grave resumed in
the early 1990s the locals ofUman were amazed by the Rosh
Hashanah antics of visiting Jews
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Rebbe Nachman was incredibly popular but not everyone
liked him because of some of his more radical ideas one of whichencouraged people to feel free to find spiritual leaders for themselvesand to break with the tradition of the hereditary Hasidic dynastiesRebbe Nachman also encouraged the individual search for the divineHis teachings spread during tumultuous times The beginning of the983089983097th Century saw the spread of democratic ideas across Europe andfor the first time in centuries Jews enjoyed ndash at least theoretically ndashequal rights Many chose fuller integration into the modernEuropean society but for more conservative Jews these changesthreatened the foundation of their communities The teachingsof Rebbe Nachman were a sort of reaction to this trend blendingtradition with more individual freedom
Whether Rebbe Nachman thought of himself as a Messiah is stilla matter of dispute Some phrases from his teachings would makegreat Facebook quotes in todays era of soul-searching and positivethinking such as If you believe that you can damage then believethat you can fixrdquo or You are never given an obstacle you cannotovercome
In Breslov Rebbe Nachman saw his movement flourish andgrow with great crowds of followers assembling for feasts like RoshHashanah Chanukah or Shavuot when they eagerly listened to histeachings In 983089983096983089983088 however he had to move
Consumption had been devouring the still young Rebbe Nachmanfor some time and then his house was destroyed by fire He movedto nearby Uman a town of great significance for the local Jewishcommunity In 983089983095983094983096 about 1048626983088983088983088983088 Jews from Uman along withmany Poles and Uniate Ukrainians were killed by the UkrainianHaidamak rebels who had risen against the then Polish-LithuanianCommonwealth
1 Selling Rebbe Nachman-
themed techno music on Pushkin
Street
2 For many Breslov Hasidim the
pilgrimage is also an opportunity
to meet old friends and make
new ones
3 Rebbe Nachman is the
descendant of Baal Shem Tov the
founder of Hasidism a branch
of Orthodox Judaism wheremysticism is at the foundation of
spirituality
3
1
2
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Over the following two decades the Rosh Hashanah gatheringin Uman became ever stronger On average about 983089983088983088983088983088-983089983093983088983088983088Hasidim come to celebrate each year The atmosphere is festive in thestreets and tense around the grave of Rebbe Nachman and peopleare generally friendly even when they notice the odd tourist in thecrowd Many of the pilgrims get tipsy and dance to rave and rock
music booming from stalls gardens and balconies Children runto and fro carrying presents bought from the ramshackle openairmarket
There are signs however that these people are not the average partygoers The song lyrics are devoted to Rebbe Nachman Umanand Rosh Hashanah Shofars howl and the streets are lined withbarbers shaving the heads of pilgrims in the traditional way The posters on the walls announce the scheduled flights to and fromUman and the crowd is predominantly male
Sometimes there is violence Many locals are not happy with the pilgrims and the fact that many Hasidim have bought propertiesaround Pushkin Street introducing their very specific lifestyle Thereare complaints about the noise and the rubbish and the level ofsecurity 1048626983088983089983088 is remembered for several sometimes bloody fightsbetween locals and pilgrims Overall though visiting Uman for RoshHashanah can turn into the experience of a lifetime even for people with only a faint interest in Judaism The event is an immersion in abygone era right amid the post-Soviet reality of Ukraine
In 1048626983088983089983092 Rosh Hashanah begins at sunset on 1048626983092 September andends at nightfall of 1048626983094 September
Top After decades of
prosecution pilgrimage in Uman
is again safe and many children
mingle in the crowd
Bottom A Jewish boy tries his
brand new plastic gun bought
as a New Years present froma makeshift openair market in
Uman
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82
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150 984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143Stara Zagora50 Han Asparuh St Zagorka lakephone 042 985 555 042 985 555
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983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150983123983156983137983154983137 983130983137983143983151983154983137
Липи прави улици и дружелюбна
атмосфера в един от най-интересните градове на България
текст Димитър Ивановфотография Антони Георгиев
by Dimitar Ivanovphotography by Anthony Georgieff
Lindens straight streets and
fiendly atmosphere in one o themost interesting cities o Bulgaria
984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143984097984130984112984128984112 984087984112984115984126984128984112
Когато се чудите накъде да тръгнете в първите топлидни на есента Стара Загора е едно от най-добрите ре-шения Отдалечен на 10486263983088 км по магистрала Тракияградът е изключително близо за онези които живеят вСофия и предлага много повече спокойствие и зелени-на от столицата дружелюбна атмосфера приятни заве-дения и исторически и природни забележителностикоито да запълнят кратката ви ваканция
Стара Загора е един от най-старите градове в ЕвропаПървите хора се заселили тук около VII-VI хилядоле-тие пр Хр Около IV впрХр на мястото на съвремен-на Стара Загора се появява град на траките известен с
When you are wondering where to go for the first warm days of the autumn Stara Zagora is one of the bestsolutions About 10486263983088 km on the Trakiya Motorway thecity is close enough for those living in Sofia and offersmore serenity and greenery than the capital The city hasalso nice cafeacutes and restaurants and enough historical andnature sites to fill a short holiday
Stara Zagora is one of the oldest cities in EuropeThe fist people settled in the area around the 983095-983094thmillennia BC Around the 983092th Century BC on the placeof modern Stara Zagora appeared a settlement of theThracians which was called Beroe It was conquered by
phone 042 985 555 042 985 555reservationshotelstarazagoraeu
wwwhotelstarazagoraeu
The fi ve-star Park Hotel Stara Zagora is situated on the bank of the romantic Zagorka Lake in Stara Zagora
Hotel with 31 luxurious rooms two luxurious apartments and one VIP apartment
State-of-the-art SPA centre with swimming pool jacuzzi fitness hall steam bath sauna
Turkish bath and massage room
Six conference rooms with capacity between seven and 250 people equipped with multimedia
and other presentational technique and tools Orfeida Restaurant with amazing interior and a capacity for up to 150 people plus a summer and a winter garden
Park for biking fishing boating jogging and other sports and activities
All dreams lead toPark Hotel Stara Zagora
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
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where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
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Magical Rhodope site tells storieso Dionysus Alexander the Great
and Augustus
by Bozhidara Georgieva photography by Anthony Georgieff
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Covering more than 983093 square kilometres Perperikon is the biggestmegalithic site in the Balkans
The first people arrived here 983096983088983088983088 years ago and carved the rocksso they could fill the crevices with fragments of pots as offerings tothe unknown deities or spirits they believed in Then these people
disappeared from Perperikon After a hiatus of about 983089983088983088983088 years atthe end of the 983093th and the beginning of the 983092th millennia BC thehill again became the focal point of religious activity In the 983089983096th-9830891048626thcenturies BC the sanctuary was already so extensive and famous thatartefacts belonging to the Minoan and Mycenaean civilisations arenow found there
Perperikon experienced a decline in the 983092th-983089st centuries BCbut when the Romans took over Thrace activity resumed and newbuildings adorned the hill In the 983094th Century however Christianity
took over and the sanctuary was abandoned Unlike other pagansacred places in the Balkans Perperikon did not fall completelysilent
Christians moved into the empty shrines built churches over themand turned Perperikon into the stronghold of local bishops It allcame to an end in 98308939830941048626 when the Ottomans invaded and people leftPerperikon for good leaving the hill to nature which soon swallowedup the remains of the churches and the Thracian shrines
The site was rediscovered by archaeologists in the 1048626983088th Century
but Perperikon only became a household name in the early 1048626983088983088983088s when excavations started again and the theory that it had belonged tothe Oracle of Dionysus was promoted as a proven fact
Previous spread Remains of cult
pits and graves in the bedrock
Perperikon was built on solid rock
so the bases of each building and
even the graves were hewn in
the stone
Deciphering the traces in the
bedrock is not easy Some believe
that the pits covering the surface
of Perperikon were only for ritual
purposes Actually most weremade to support columns of
buildings or to store food and
liquids
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Major river breaks outin Stara Planina heading
towards Black Seaby Minka Vazkresenska photography by Anthony Georgieff
How to define the source of a river is often a tough question toanswer Is it where water springs from the ground for the first timeor is it the place where two or more streams merge into a larger flowEven the source of the Danube Europes largest river is contentiousat least three springs claim to be the beginnings of the mighty river
The Kamchiya River is no exception Theoretically it is only983092983094 kilometres long and flows through northeastern Bulgaria before joining the Black Sea at a particularly beautiful and terrifyinglymosquito-infested forest With its major tributary the Golyama orGrand Kamchiya the river is 1048626983092983092 kilometres long making it the983096th longest river in Bulgaria The official source of the GolyamaKamchiya ndash and of the Kamchiya ndash is in the Lisa Planina at analtitude of about 983095983089983088 metres above sea level
But there is a spot high up in the Stara Planina on the border ofits central and eastern parts which has gained popularity as the truesource of the Kamchiya It is where the second major tributaryof the river confusingly called the Luda or Crazy Kamchiya springsup as a tiny stream runs eastwards for 1048626983088983088 kilometres and joins theGolyama Kamchiya The Luda Kamchiya is the 983089983088th longest river inBulgaria
The popularity of the Luda Kamchiyas spring as the genuinebeginning of the Kamchiya River (are you already confused)
is probably due to its location It is in a pleasant and historicallysignificant spot the Vratnik Pass connecting Veliko Tarnovo andElena to the north with Sliven south of the Stara Planina
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Situated at an altitude of 983089983088983097983095 metres above sea level and being 983089983088kilometres long the Vratnik Pass used to be a main route through themountain The Romans built a road along it and in the Middle Agesa strong fort guarded it a frequent site of battles between Bulgariansand Byzantines The importance of the pass was mirrored in its nameZhelezni Vrata and Demir Kapiya mean Iron Gates in Bulgarian andTurkish resepctively The modern-day name of the pass Vratnik wasadopted in 9830899830979830921048626 and just means Gate
Today the pass is almost deserted as most drivers prefer to avoid thenarrow potholed road which zigzags through a thick forest Even insummer when you stop at the highest part of the pass to look for theKamchiyas source you will most probably find the place empty
Actually empty means empty of tourists The forest around thespring is the temporary home of of some Gypsies families dealing with lumberjacking and mushroom-pickingTheir ragged tents madeof old blankets and sheets of nylon are all over the place as are theheaps of household garbage
The scenery becomes almost surreal when mist descends drenchingthe forest in white and leaving only the dark trunks of the closesttrees visible
The Luda Kamchiyas spring is east of the road in a depressionhidden by tall trees Spectacular it is not as it is fed into a waterfountain The water fountain inscription however is grandiose Tothose fallen for freedom Glorify their sacred feat you unendinglyflowing Kamchiya
There is some justification for this Only 1048626 kilometres east of thespring is Aglikina Polyana or Aglikas Meadow where the Bulgarianhayduti or 983089983097th Century rebels used to meet They lived in themountains as far away from the Ottoman authorities as possibleexcept for when they attacked and robbed Ottoman convoys at the pass
Aglikina Polyana is heavily represented in Bulgarian heroic folklorehas a protected area status and hosts a regular folklore meeting
You can visit Aglikina Polyana from here but in any case be sure to
kneel at the water fountain which is the source of the Luda Kamchiyaand take a drink It is not that often that you can drink the cool clear waters of a river at its source
Top Semi-wild horses roam freely
around the Vratnik Pass
Bottom The beginnings of a 200-
kilometre Luda Kamchiya river
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Remote village pro983158idesunspoilt old-time atmosphere great ood by Violeta Rozova photography by Anthony Georgieff
Rural tourism in Bulgaria was barely known 1048626983088 years ago butin the early 1048626983088983088983088s it experienced an EU-funded boom But in thelate 1048626983088983088983088s the still ongoing economic crisis hit and now manyguesthouses are struggling to survive with the decreased numberof visitors In the western fringes of the Rhodope however is atraditional village which is still one of the best places for ruraltourism in Bulgaria
Leshten close to Gotse Delchev actually invented rural tourismin Bulgaria Since the mid-983089983097983097983088s it has been the first choice for anescape from the big city for all those interested in clean air delicioushealthy food and genuinely and intelligently preserved architecture
Truth to tell Leshten is hardly a village nowadays Only 983089983088 peoplelive there and most of them are septuagenarian In the 983089983097th and thefirst half of the 1048626983088th centuries however Leshten was a bustling placehome to more than 983093983088983088 people Unlike the inhabitants of nearbyKovachevitsa who built three- and four-storey mini fortresses to
protect their riches the people of Leshten were poor They had lessto lose and so they built houses of only two floors The ground level was for the livestock and the one above for the families
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Top A statue of two icecream
cones
Bottom The Buzludzha complex is
famous for its ghastly atmosphere
32
4
Kovachevitsa and Leshten both began to lose inhabitants at a greatrate after the Communist coup of 983089983097983092983092 when industrialisation andforced collectivisation striped the villagers of their livelihood andforced them to seek jobs in cities Kovachevitsa as a much grander village attracted the attention of Bulgarian film-makers in the 983089983097983095983088sand experienced a wave of new settlers mostly Sofia intellectuals who bought holiday homes there
Leshten was rediscovered much laterIn the mid-983089983097983097983088s a couple from Sofia found themselves in the
village with its ghostly and abandoned old houses They fell in love with Leshten as it had an unexpected advantage over crowd-pulling
Kovachevitsa Kovachevitsa is deep in the mountains and does nothave much of a vistaLeshten however has a marvellous view over the valley of the
Mesta River with the blue slopes of the Pirin defining the horizon983121uite unusually for the mid-983089983097983097983088s when everyone was either
leaving Bulgaria or flocking to Sofia where job prospects were betterthe couple moved to Leshten They bought some of the houses andturned them into holiday lets while preserving as much as possiblethe traditional architecture and opened one of the best restaurants
in Bulgaria This was in the long-disused local school next to thebeautiful and tiny St Paraskeva Church which dates from 9830899830963983094 and iscovered inside with primitive but captivating murals
1
1 The key to your room Each
detail in the 200-year old Leshten
houses has been preserved
2 3 The St Paraskeva Church
was built in 1837 and has been
listed as a local monument of
culture
4 Having breakfast while enjoying
the view to the Mesta Valley and
the Pirin is one of Leshtens many
pleasures
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The food in the tavern was locally sourced long before this became
fashionable Almost everything on the menu comes from the areafrom the wild berry juice and the thick sheeprsquos yoghurt to thetraditional egg noodles and the meatballs which are prepared not ofmince but of finely chopped meat
The restored traditional houses are on a par with the foods qualityIntelligently preserved yet having mod cons they smell of ageing wood geraniums and of woollen rugs warmed by the sun The wallsare whitewashed white linen curtains with embroidery shade the windows and the slightly crooked beams of the floor squeak quietly
under your feetRecently however more people decided to profit on Leshten
More houses were turned into hotels and as the competition grewone night the old school caught fire and burned to the ground Thetavern was re-established in a newer building with a beautiful viewof the Mesta Valley The food is still gorgeous the best the Rhodopeand the people living in these beautiful mountains can give you
This series of articles is supported by theAmerica for Bulgaria Foundation The
statements and opinions expressed herein
are those of the authors and do not necessarily
reflect the opinion of the America for Bulgaria
Foundation and its partners
1 Stone was used extensively in
building the houses of Leshten
and even the roofs are f rom rock
The technique was popular in
Bulgaria until the beginning of
the 20th Century but was later
abandoned It has been enjoying
a revival in recent years as surge
of interest in eco tourism has
brought it back to fashion
2 Leshten is a good basefor exploring of the Western
Rhodope with traditional villages
like Kovachevitsa and Dolen and
pristine wild nature all around
3 Fresco from St Paraskeva
Church with a didactic scene
advertising the advantages of
pious life
3
1
2
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Case study of senior Communist offi cialElena Lagadinova reveals unexpectedaspects of superpower confrontation
by Kristen Ghodsee all photographs courtesy of the author
One of the great ironies of the Cold War is that the twosuperpowers often championed issues that they cared little aboutin practice The East bloc defended the social rights of the worldrsquos workers while treating their own citizens like indentured servantsThe United States campaigned for political freedoms abroad whilebrutally oppressing or marginalising their own African-Americanand Native American populations at home Any rhetoric thatcould be deployed against the enemy became a weapon in the widerideological battle
Today historians and social scientists are studying the internationallegacies of these Cold War rivalries over social and politicalrights Whether it is labor conventions at the International LaborOrganisation political self-determination for previously colonisedcountries or the end to state-sanctioned racial discrimination in theUnited States or in apartheid-era South Africa the general scholarlyconsensus is that ordinary people ndash whether in the capitalist
Communist or developing worlds ndash benefitted from superpowercompetition An unintended consequence of American and Sovietgrandstanding was often real social progress
1
2
2
4
54
6 7
1 Elena The Amazon
Lagadinova in 1945
2 With Valentina Tereshkova
3 Delivering a speech in 1970
4 With the US activist Angela
Davis in 1972
5 Hosting a school for African
women leaders in Sofia in 1982
6 Lagadinova (left) with an
young Irina Bokova (right) at
the Third UN Conference on
Women in Nairobi in 1985
7 In Razlog with Kristen
Ghodsee in 2013
3
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Tousands o Hassidim gatherin Ukrainian city to celebrate
Jewish New Year by Dimana Trankova photography by Anthony Georgieff
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Dusty and drab devoid of any charm unless you count the 983089983096thCentury Sofyivka Park and the Georgian cheese pastries at the busstation the Ukrainian city of Uman would be a strong contender forthe most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe
But it is not the most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe ndash atleast not for a couple of days each year when it gets filled with joyfulcrowds of Ultra religious Jews flown in from as far as Canada BritainIsrael and Australia to celebrate the Jewish New Year usually inSeptember They all converge at Pushkin Street take out their heavyluggage and drag it to their rented rooms in small houses and tallSocialist apartment blocks Music is booming the smell of cookedfood comes from the tents of the openair eateries Happy people inthe streets greet each other smiling from ear to ear when they meetand embrace some old friend
Uman a city of roughly 983097983088983088983088983088 residents in western Ukraine is thefocus of pilgrimage for Hasidic Jews who come here to celebrate atthe tomb of one of their greatest spiritual leaders
Rebbe Nachman (9830899830959830951048626-983089983096983089983088) of Breslov was the great-grandson ofBaal Shem Tov the founder of Hasidism a conservative movementthat spread among the Ashkenazi Jews in Eastern Europe He showedthe first signs of having a special connection with the divine as earlyas 983089983095 and spent the next decades of his life moving around the areaof what is now western Ukraine and eastern Poland attractingfollowers Rebbe Nachmans travels even brought him to Palestine where he met and talked with prominent Jewish sages and scholars
In 9830899830969830881048626 he settled in Bratslav (as Breslov is more commonlyknown) and announced the creation of a new movement ofHasidism the Breslov Hasidism
When pilgrimage to Rebbe
Nachmans grave resumed in
the early 1990s the locals ofUman were amazed by the Rosh
Hashanah antics of visiting Jews
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Rebbe Nachman was incredibly popular but not everyone
liked him because of some of his more radical ideas one of whichencouraged people to feel free to find spiritual leaders for themselvesand to break with the tradition of the hereditary Hasidic dynastiesRebbe Nachman also encouraged the individual search for the divineHis teachings spread during tumultuous times The beginning of the983089983097th Century saw the spread of democratic ideas across Europe andfor the first time in centuries Jews enjoyed ndash at least theoretically ndashequal rights Many chose fuller integration into the modernEuropean society but for more conservative Jews these changesthreatened the foundation of their communities The teachingsof Rebbe Nachman were a sort of reaction to this trend blendingtradition with more individual freedom
Whether Rebbe Nachman thought of himself as a Messiah is stilla matter of dispute Some phrases from his teachings would makegreat Facebook quotes in todays era of soul-searching and positivethinking such as If you believe that you can damage then believethat you can fixrdquo or You are never given an obstacle you cannotovercome
In Breslov Rebbe Nachman saw his movement flourish andgrow with great crowds of followers assembling for feasts like RoshHashanah Chanukah or Shavuot when they eagerly listened to histeachings In 983089983096983089983088 however he had to move
Consumption had been devouring the still young Rebbe Nachmanfor some time and then his house was destroyed by fire He movedto nearby Uman a town of great significance for the local Jewishcommunity In 983089983095983094983096 about 1048626983088983088983088983088 Jews from Uman along withmany Poles and Uniate Ukrainians were killed by the UkrainianHaidamak rebels who had risen against the then Polish-LithuanianCommonwealth
1 Selling Rebbe Nachman-
themed techno music on Pushkin
Street
2 For many Breslov Hasidim the
pilgrimage is also an opportunity
to meet old friends and make
new ones
3 Rebbe Nachman is the
descendant of Baal Shem Tov the
founder of Hasidism a branch
of Orthodox Judaism wheremysticism is at the foundation of
spirituality
3
1
2
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Over the following two decades the Rosh Hashanah gatheringin Uman became ever stronger On average about 983089983088983088983088983088-983089983093983088983088983088Hasidim come to celebrate each year The atmosphere is festive in thestreets and tense around the grave of Rebbe Nachman and peopleare generally friendly even when they notice the odd tourist in thecrowd Many of the pilgrims get tipsy and dance to rave and rock
music booming from stalls gardens and balconies Children runto and fro carrying presents bought from the ramshackle openairmarket
There are signs however that these people are not the average partygoers The song lyrics are devoted to Rebbe Nachman Umanand Rosh Hashanah Shofars howl and the streets are lined withbarbers shaving the heads of pilgrims in the traditional way The posters on the walls announce the scheduled flights to and fromUman and the crowd is predominantly male
Sometimes there is violence Many locals are not happy with the pilgrims and the fact that many Hasidim have bought propertiesaround Pushkin Street introducing their very specific lifestyle Thereare complaints about the noise and the rubbish and the level ofsecurity 1048626983088983089983088 is remembered for several sometimes bloody fightsbetween locals and pilgrims Overall though visiting Uman for RoshHashanah can turn into the experience of a lifetime even for people with only a faint interest in Judaism The event is an immersion in abygone era right amid the post-Soviet reality of Ukraine
In 1048626983088983089983092 Rosh Hashanah begins at sunset on 1048626983092 September andends at nightfall of 1048626983094 September
Top After decades of
prosecution pilgrimage in Uman
is again safe and many children
mingle in the crowd
Bottom A Jewish boy tries his
brand new plastic gun bought
as a New Years present froma makeshift openair market in
Uman
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983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150 984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143Stara Zagora50 Han Asparuh St Zagorka lakephone 042 985 555 042 985 555
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983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150983123983156983137983154983137 983130983137983143983151983154983137
Липи прави улици и дружелюбна
атмосфера в един от най-интересните градове на България
текст Димитър Ивановфотография Антони Георгиев
by Dimitar Ivanovphotography by Anthony Georgieff
Lindens straight streets and
fiendly atmosphere in one o themost interesting cities o Bulgaria
984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143984097984130984112984128984112 984087984112984115984126984128984112
Когато се чудите накъде да тръгнете в първите топлидни на есента Стара Загора е едно от най-добрите ре-шения Отдалечен на 10486263983088 км по магистрала Тракияградът е изключително близо за онези които живеят вСофия и предлага много повече спокойствие и зелени-на от столицата дружелюбна атмосфера приятни заве-дения и исторически и природни забележителностикоито да запълнят кратката ви ваканция
Стара Загора е един от най-старите градове в ЕвропаПървите хора се заселили тук около VII-VI хилядоле-тие пр Хр Около IV впрХр на мястото на съвремен-на Стара Загора се появява град на траките известен с
When you are wondering where to go for the first warm days of the autumn Stara Zagora is one of the bestsolutions About 10486263983088 km on the Trakiya Motorway thecity is close enough for those living in Sofia and offersmore serenity and greenery than the capital The city hasalso nice cafeacutes and restaurants and enough historical andnature sites to fill a short holiday
Stara Zagora is one of the oldest cities in EuropeThe fist people settled in the area around the 983095-983094thmillennia BC Around the 983092th Century BC on the placeof modern Stara Zagora appeared a settlement of theThracians which was called Beroe It was conquered by
phone 042 985 555 042 985 555reservationshotelstarazagoraeu
wwwhotelstarazagoraeu
The fi ve-star Park Hotel Stara Zagora is situated on the bank of the romantic Zagorka Lake in Stara Zagora
Hotel with 31 luxurious rooms two luxurious apartments and one VIP apartment
State-of-the-art SPA centre with swimming pool jacuzzi fitness hall steam bath sauna
Turkish bath and massage room
Six conference rooms with capacity between seven and 250 people equipped with multimedia
and other presentational technique and tools Orfeida Restaurant with amazing interior and a capacity for up to 150 people plus a summer and a winter garden
Park for biking fishing boating jogging and other sports and activities
All dreams lead toPark Hotel Stara Zagora
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
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where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
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Covering more than 983093 square kilometres Perperikon is the biggestmegalithic site in the Balkans
The first people arrived here 983096983088983088983088 years ago and carved the rocksso they could fill the crevices with fragments of pots as offerings tothe unknown deities or spirits they believed in Then these people
disappeared from Perperikon After a hiatus of about 983089983088983088983088 years atthe end of the 983093th and the beginning of the 983092th millennia BC thehill again became the focal point of religious activity In the 983089983096th-9830891048626thcenturies BC the sanctuary was already so extensive and famous thatartefacts belonging to the Minoan and Mycenaean civilisations arenow found there
Perperikon experienced a decline in the 983092th-983089st centuries BCbut when the Romans took over Thrace activity resumed and newbuildings adorned the hill In the 983094th Century however Christianity
took over and the sanctuary was abandoned Unlike other pagansacred places in the Balkans Perperikon did not fall completelysilent
Christians moved into the empty shrines built churches over themand turned Perperikon into the stronghold of local bishops It allcame to an end in 98308939830941048626 when the Ottomans invaded and people leftPerperikon for good leaving the hill to nature which soon swallowedup the remains of the churches and the Thracian shrines
The site was rediscovered by archaeologists in the 1048626983088th Century
but Perperikon only became a household name in the early 1048626983088983088983088s when excavations started again and the theory that it had belonged tothe Oracle of Dionysus was promoted as a proven fact
Previous spread Remains of cult
pits and graves in the bedrock
Perperikon was built on solid rock
so the bases of each building and
even the graves were hewn in
the stone
Deciphering the traces in the
bedrock is not easy Some believe
that the pits covering the surface
of Perperikon were only for ritual
purposes Actually most weremade to support columns of
buildings or to store food and
liquids
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Major river breaks outin Stara Planina heading
towards Black Seaby Minka Vazkresenska photography by Anthony Georgieff
How to define the source of a river is often a tough question toanswer Is it where water springs from the ground for the first timeor is it the place where two or more streams merge into a larger flowEven the source of the Danube Europes largest river is contentiousat least three springs claim to be the beginnings of the mighty river
The Kamchiya River is no exception Theoretically it is only983092983094 kilometres long and flows through northeastern Bulgaria before joining the Black Sea at a particularly beautiful and terrifyinglymosquito-infested forest With its major tributary the Golyama orGrand Kamchiya the river is 1048626983092983092 kilometres long making it the983096th longest river in Bulgaria The official source of the GolyamaKamchiya ndash and of the Kamchiya ndash is in the Lisa Planina at analtitude of about 983095983089983088 metres above sea level
But there is a spot high up in the Stara Planina on the border ofits central and eastern parts which has gained popularity as the truesource of the Kamchiya It is where the second major tributaryof the river confusingly called the Luda or Crazy Kamchiya springsup as a tiny stream runs eastwards for 1048626983088983088 kilometres and joins theGolyama Kamchiya The Luda Kamchiya is the 983089983088th longest river inBulgaria
The popularity of the Luda Kamchiyas spring as the genuinebeginning of the Kamchiya River (are you already confused)
is probably due to its location It is in a pleasant and historicallysignificant spot the Vratnik Pass connecting Veliko Tarnovo andElena to the north with Sliven south of the Stara Planina
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Situated at an altitude of 983089983088983097983095 metres above sea level and being 983089983088kilometres long the Vratnik Pass used to be a main route through themountain The Romans built a road along it and in the Middle Agesa strong fort guarded it a frequent site of battles between Bulgariansand Byzantines The importance of the pass was mirrored in its nameZhelezni Vrata and Demir Kapiya mean Iron Gates in Bulgarian andTurkish resepctively The modern-day name of the pass Vratnik wasadopted in 9830899830979830921048626 and just means Gate
Today the pass is almost deserted as most drivers prefer to avoid thenarrow potholed road which zigzags through a thick forest Even insummer when you stop at the highest part of the pass to look for theKamchiyas source you will most probably find the place empty
Actually empty means empty of tourists The forest around thespring is the temporary home of of some Gypsies families dealing with lumberjacking and mushroom-pickingTheir ragged tents madeof old blankets and sheets of nylon are all over the place as are theheaps of household garbage
The scenery becomes almost surreal when mist descends drenchingthe forest in white and leaving only the dark trunks of the closesttrees visible
The Luda Kamchiyas spring is east of the road in a depressionhidden by tall trees Spectacular it is not as it is fed into a waterfountain The water fountain inscription however is grandiose Tothose fallen for freedom Glorify their sacred feat you unendinglyflowing Kamchiya
There is some justification for this Only 1048626 kilometres east of thespring is Aglikina Polyana or Aglikas Meadow where the Bulgarianhayduti or 983089983097th Century rebels used to meet They lived in themountains as far away from the Ottoman authorities as possibleexcept for when they attacked and robbed Ottoman convoys at the pass
Aglikina Polyana is heavily represented in Bulgarian heroic folklorehas a protected area status and hosts a regular folklore meeting
You can visit Aglikina Polyana from here but in any case be sure to
kneel at the water fountain which is the source of the Luda Kamchiyaand take a drink It is not that often that you can drink the cool clear waters of a river at its source
Top Semi-wild horses roam freely
around the Vratnik Pass
Bottom The beginnings of a 200-
kilometre Luda Kamchiya river
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Remote village pro983158idesunspoilt old-time atmosphere great ood by Violeta Rozova photography by Anthony Georgieff
Rural tourism in Bulgaria was barely known 1048626983088 years ago butin the early 1048626983088983088983088s it experienced an EU-funded boom But in thelate 1048626983088983088983088s the still ongoing economic crisis hit and now manyguesthouses are struggling to survive with the decreased numberof visitors In the western fringes of the Rhodope however is atraditional village which is still one of the best places for ruraltourism in Bulgaria
Leshten close to Gotse Delchev actually invented rural tourismin Bulgaria Since the mid-983089983097983097983088s it has been the first choice for anescape from the big city for all those interested in clean air delicioushealthy food and genuinely and intelligently preserved architecture
Truth to tell Leshten is hardly a village nowadays Only 983089983088 peoplelive there and most of them are septuagenarian In the 983089983097th and thefirst half of the 1048626983088th centuries however Leshten was a bustling placehome to more than 983093983088983088 people Unlike the inhabitants of nearbyKovachevitsa who built three- and four-storey mini fortresses to
protect their riches the people of Leshten were poor They had lessto lose and so they built houses of only two floors The ground level was for the livestock and the one above for the families
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Top A statue of two icecream
cones
Bottom The Buzludzha complex is
famous for its ghastly atmosphere
32
4
Kovachevitsa and Leshten both began to lose inhabitants at a greatrate after the Communist coup of 983089983097983092983092 when industrialisation andforced collectivisation striped the villagers of their livelihood andforced them to seek jobs in cities Kovachevitsa as a much grander village attracted the attention of Bulgarian film-makers in the 983089983097983095983088sand experienced a wave of new settlers mostly Sofia intellectuals who bought holiday homes there
Leshten was rediscovered much laterIn the mid-983089983097983097983088s a couple from Sofia found themselves in the
village with its ghostly and abandoned old houses They fell in love with Leshten as it had an unexpected advantage over crowd-pulling
Kovachevitsa Kovachevitsa is deep in the mountains and does nothave much of a vistaLeshten however has a marvellous view over the valley of the
Mesta River with the blue slopes of the Pirin defining the horizon983121uite unusually for the mid-983089983097983097983088s when everyone was either
leaving Bulgaria or flocking to Sofia where job prospects were betterthe couple moved to Leshten They bought some of the houses andturned them into holiday lets while preserving as much as possiblethe traditional architecture and opened one of the best restaurants
in Bulgaria This was in the long-disused local school next to thebeautiful and tiny St Paraskeva Church which dates from 9830899830963983094 and iscovered inside with primitive but captivating murals
1
1 The key to your room Each
detail in the 200-year old Leshten
houses has been preserved
2 3 The St Paraskeva Church
was built in 1837 and has been
listed as a local monument of
culture
4 Having breakfast while enjoying
the view to the Mesta Valley and
the Pirin is one of Leshtens many
pleasures
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The food in the tavern was locally sourced long before this became
fashionable Almost everything on the menu comes from the areafrom the wild berry juice and the thick sheeprsquos yoghurt to thetraditional egg noodles and the meatballs which are prepared not ofmince but of finely chopped meat
The restored traditional houses are on a par with the foods qualityIntelligently preserved yet having mod cons they smell of ageing wood geraniums and of woollen rugs warmed by the sun The wallsare whitewashed white linen curtains with embroidery shade the windows and the slightly crooked beams of the floor squeak quietly
under your feetRecently however more people decided to profit on Leshten
More houses were turned into hotels and as the competition grewone night the old school caught fire and burned to the ground Thetavern was re-established in a newer building with a beautiful viewof the Mesta Valley The food is still gorgeous the best the Rhodopeand the people living in these beautiful mountains can give you
This series of articles is supported by theAmerica for Bulgaria Foundation The
statements and opinions expressed herein
are those of the authors and do not necessarily
reflect the opinion of the America for Bulgaria
Foundation and its partners
1 Stone was used extensively in
building the houses of Leshten
and even the roofs are f rom rock
The technique was popular in
Bulgaria until the beginning of
the 20th Century but was later
abandoned It has been enjoying
a revival in recent years as surge
of interest in eco tourism has
brought it back to fashion
2 Leshten is a good basefor exploring of the Western
Rhodope with traditional villages
like Kovachevitsa and Dolen and
pristine wild nature all around
3 Fresco from St Paraskeva
Church with a didactic scene
advertising the advantages of
pious life
3
1
2
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Case study of senior Communist offi cialElena Lagadinova reveals unexpectedaspects of superpower confrontation
by Kristen Ghodsee all photographs courtesy of the author
One of the great ironies of the Cold War is that the twosuperpowers often championed issues that they cared little aboutin practice The East bloc defended the social rights of the worldrsquos workers while treating their own citizens like indentured servantsThe United States campaigned for political freedoms abroad whilebrutally oppressing or marginalising their own African-Americanand Native American populations at home Any rhetoric thatcould be deployed against the enemy became a weapon in the widerideological battle
Today historians and social scientists are studying the internationallegacies of these Cold War rivalries over social and politicalrights Whether it is labor conventions at the International LaborOrganisation political self-determination for previously colonisedcountries or the end to state-sanctioned racial discrimination in theUnited States or in apartheid-era South Africa the general scholarlyconsensus is that ordinary people ndash whether in the capitalist
Communist or developing worlds ndash benefitted from superpowercompetition An unintended consequence of American and Sovietgrandstanding was often real social progress
1
2
2
4
54
6 7
1 Elena The Amazon
Lagadinova in 1945
2 With Valentina Tereshkova
3 Delivering a speech in 1970
4 With the US activist Angela
Davis in 1972
5 Hosting a school for African
women leaders in Sofia in 1982
6 Lagadinova (left) with an
young Irina Bokova (right) at
the Third UN Conference on
Women in Nairobi in 1985
7 In Razlog with Kristen
Ghodsee in 2013
3
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Tousands o Hassidim gatherin Ukrainian city to celebrate
Jewish New Year by Dimana Trankova photography by Anthony Georgieff
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Dusty and drab devoid of any charm unless you count the 983089983096thCentury Sofyivka Park and the Georgian cheese pastries at the busstation the Ukrainian city of Uman would be a strong contender forthe most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe
But it is not the most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe ndash atleast not for a couple of days each year when it gets filled with joyfulcrowds of Ultra religious Jews flown in from as far as Canada BritainIsrael and Australia to celebrate the Jewish New Year usually inSeptember They all converge at Pushkin Street take out their heavyluggage and drag it to their rented rooms in small houses and tallSocialist apartment blocks Music is booming the smell of cookedfood comes from the tents of the openair eateries Happy people inthe streets greet each other smiling from ear to ear when they meetand embrace some old friend
Uman a city of roughly 983097983088983088983088983088 residents in western Ukraine is thefocus of pilgrimage for Hasidic Jews who come here to celebrate atthe tomb of one of their greatest spiritual leaders
Rebbe Nachman (9830899830959830951048626-983089983096983089983088) of Breslov was the great-grandson ofBaal Shem Tov the founder of Hasidism a conservative movementthat spread among the Ashkenazi Jews in Eastern Europe He showedthe first signs of having a special connection with the divine as earlyas 983089983095 and spent the next decades of his life moving around the areaof what is now western Ukraine and eastern Poland attractingfollowers Rebbe Nachmans travels even brought him to Palestine where he met and talked with prominent Jewish sages and scholars
In 9830899830969830881048626 he settled in Bratslav (as Breslov is more commonlyknown) and announced the creation of a new movement ofHasidism the Breslov Hasidism
When pilgrimage to Rebbe
Nachmans grave resumed in
the early 1990s the locals ofUman were amazed by the Rosh
Hashanah antics of visiting Jews
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Rebbe Nachman was incredibly popular but not everyone
liked him because of some of his more radical ideas one of whichencouraged people to feel free to find spiritual leaders for themselvesand to break with the tradition of the hereditary Hasidic dynastiesRebbe Nachman also encouraged the individual search for the divineHis teachings spread during tumultuous times The beginning of the983089983097th Century saw the spread of democratic ideas across Europe andfor the first time in centuries Jews enjoyed ndash at least theoretically ndashequal rights Many chose fuller integration into the modernEuropean society but for more conservative Jews these changesthreatened the foundation of their communities The teachingsof Rebbe Nachman were a sort of reaction to this trend blendingtradition with more individual freedom
Whether Rebbe Nachman thought of himself as a Messiah is stilla matter of dispute Some phrases from his teachings would makegreat Facebook quotes in todays era of soul-searching and positivethinking such as If you believe that you can damage then believethat you can fixrdquo or You are never given an obstacle you cannotovercome
In Breslov Rebbe Nachman saw his movement flourish andgrow with great crowds of followers assembling for feasts like RoshHashanah Chanukah or Shavuot when they eagerly listened to histeachings In 983089983096983089983088 however he had to move
Consumption had been devouring the still young Rebbe Nachmanfor some time and then his house was destroyed by fire He movedto nearby Uman a town of great significance for the local Jewishcommunity In 983089983095983094983096 about 1048626983088983088983088983088 Jews from Uman along withmany Poles and Uniate Ukrainians were killed by the UkrainianHaidamak rebels who had risen against the then Polish-LithuanianCommonwealth
1 Selling Rebbe Nachman-
themed techno music on Pushkin
Street
2 For many Breslov Hasidim the
pilgrimage is also an opportunity
to meet old friends and make
new ones
3 Rebbe Nachman is the
descendant of Baal Shem Tov the
founder of Hasidism a branch
of Orthodox Judaism wheremysticism is at the foundation of
spirituality
3
1
2
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Over the following two decades the Rosh Hashanah gatheringin Uman became ever stronger On average about 983089983088983088983088983088-983089983093983088983088983088Hasidim come to celebrate each year The atmosphere is festive in thestreets and tense around the grave of Rebbe Nachman and peopleare generally friendly even when they notice the odd tourist in thecrowd Many of the pilgrims get tipsy and dance to rave and rock
music booming from stalls gardens and balconies Children runto and fro carrying presents bought from the ramshackle openairmarket
There are signs however that these people are not the average partygoers The song lyrics are devoted to Rebbe Nachman Umanand Rosh Hashanah Shofars howl and the streets are lined withbarbers shaving the heads of pilgrims in the traditional way The posters on the walls announce the scheduled flights to and fromUman and the crowd is predominantly male
Sometimes there is violence Many locals are not happy with the pilgrims and the fact that many Hasidim have bought propertiesaround Pushkin Street introducing their very specific lifestyle Thereare complaints about the noise and the rubbish and the level ofsecurity 1048626983088983089983088 is remembered for several sometimes bloody fightsbetween locals and pilgrims Overall though visiting Uman for RoshHashanah can turn into the experience of a lifetime even for people with only a faint interest in Judaism The event is an immersion in abygone era right amid the post-Soviet reality of Ukraine
In 1048626983088983089983092 Rosh Hashanah begins at sunset on 1048626983092 September andends at nightfall of 1048626983094 September
Top After decades of
prosecution pilgrimage in Uman
is again safe and many children
mingle in the crowd
Bottom A Jewish boy tries his
brand new plastic gun bought
as a New Years present froma makeshift openair market in
Uman
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82
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150 984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143Stara Zagora50 Han Asparuh St Zagorka lakephone 042 985 555 042 985 555
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983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150983123983156983137983154983137 983130983137983143983151983154983137
Липи прави улици и дружелюбна
атмосфера в един от най-интересните градове на България
текст Димитър Ивановфотография Антони Георгиев
by Dimitar Ivanovphotography by Anthony Georgieff
Lindens straight streets and
fiendly atmosphere in one o themost interesting cities o Bulgaria
984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143984097984130984112984128984112 984087984112984115984126984128984112
Когато се чудите накъде да тръгнете в първите топлидни на есента Стара Загора е едно от най-добрите ре-шения Отдалечен на 10486263983088 км по магистрала Тракияградът е изключително близо за онези които живеят вСофия и предлага много повече спокойствие и зелени-на от столицата дружелюбна атмосфера приятни заве-дения и исторически и природни забележителностикоито да запълнят кратката ви ваканция
Стара Загора е един от най-старите градове в ЕвропаПървите хора се заселили тук около VII-VI хилядоле-тие пр Хр Около IV впрХр на мястото на съвремен-на Стара Загора се появява град на траките известен с
When you are wondering where to go for the first warm days of the autumn Stara Zagora is one of the bestsolutions About 10486263983088 km on the Trakiya Motorway thecity is close enough for those living in Sofia and offersmore serenity and greenery than the capital The city hasalso nice cafeacutes and restaurants and enough historical andnature sites to fill a short holiday
Stara Zagora is one of the oldest cities in EuropeThe fist people settled in the area around the 983095-983094thmillennia BC Around the 983092th Century BC on the placeof modern Stara Zagora appeared a settlement of theThracians which was called Beroe It was conquered by
phone 042 985 555 042 985 555reservationshotelstarazagoraeu
wwwhotelstarazagoraeu
The fi ve-star Park Hotel Stara Zagora is situated on the bank of the romantic Zagorka Lake in Stara Zagora
Hotel with 31 luxurious rooms two luxurious apartments and one VIP apartment
State-of-the-art SPA centre with swimming pool jacuzzi fitness hall steam bath sauna
Turkish bath and massage room
Six conference rooms with capacity between seven and 250 people equipped with multimedia
and other presentational technique and tools Orfeida Restaurant with amazing interior and a capacity for up to 150 people plus a summer and a winter garden
Park for biking fishing boating jogging and other sports and activities
All dreams lead toPark Hotel Stara Zagora
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
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where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
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Covering more than 983093 square kilometres Perperikon is the biggestmegalithic site in the Balkans
The first people arrived here 983096983088983088983088 years ago and carved the rocksso they could fill the crevices with fragments of pots as offerings tothe unknown deities or spirits they believed in Then these people
disappeared from Perperikon After a hiatus of about 983089983088983088983088 years atthe end of the 983093th and the beginning of the 983092th millennia BC thehill again became the focal point of religious activity In the 983089983096th-9830891048626thcenturies BC the sanctuary was already so extensive and famous thatartefacts belonging to the Minoan and Mycenaean civilisations arenow found there
Perperikon experienced a decline in the 983092th-983089st centuries BCbut when the Romans took over Thrace activity resumed and newbuildings adorned the hill In the 983094th Century however Christianity
took over and the sanctuary was abandoned Unlike other pagansacred places in the Balkans Perperikon did not fall completelysilent
Christians moved into the empty shrines built churches over themand turned Perperikon into the stronghold of local bishops It allcame to an end in 98308939830941048626 when the Ottomans invaded and people leftPerperikon for good leaving the hill to nature which soon swallowedup the remains of the churches and the Thracian shrines
The site was rediscovered by archaeologists in the 1048626983088th Century
but Perperikon only became a household name in the early 1048626983088983088983088s when excavations started again and the theory that it had belonged tothe Oracle of Dionysus was promoted as a proven fact
Previous spread Remains of cult
pits and graves in the bedrock
Perperikon was built on solid rock
so the bases of each building and
even the graves were hewn in
the stone
Deciphering the traces in the
bedrock is not easy Some believe
that the pits covering the surface
of Perperikon were only for ritual
purposes Actually most weremade to support columns of
buildings or to store food and
liquids
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Major river breaks outin Stara Planina heading
towards Black Seaby Minka Vazkresenska photography by Anthony Georgieff
How to define the source of a river is often a tough question toanswer Is it where water springs from the ground for the first timeor is it the place where two or more streams merge into a larger flowEven the source of the Danube Europes largest river is contentiousat least three springs claim to be the beginnings of the mighty river
The Kamchiya River is no exception Theoretically it is only983092983094 kilometres long and flows through northeastern Bulgaria before joining the Black Sea at a particularly beautiful and terrifyinglymosquito-infested forest With its major tributary the Golyama orGrand Kamchiya the river is 1048626983092983092 kilometres long making it the983096th longest river in Bulgaria The official source of the GolyamaKamchiya ndash and of the Kamchiya ndash is in the Lisa Planina at analtitude of about 983095983089983088 metres above sea level
But there is a spot high up in the Stara Planina on the border ofits central and eastern parts which has gained popularity as the truesource of the Kamchiya It is where the second major tributaryof the river confusingly called the Luda or Crazy Kamchiya springsup as a tiny stream runs eastwards for 1048626983088983088 kilometres and joins theGolyama Kamchiya The Luda Kamchiya is the 983089983088th longest river inBulgaria
The popularity of the Luda Kamchiyas spring as the genuinebeginning of the Kamchiya River (are you already confused)
is probably due to its location It is in a pleasant and historicallysignificant spot the Vratnik Pass connecting Veliko Tarnovo andElena to the north with Sliven south of the Stara Planina
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Situated at an altitude of 983089983088983097983095 metres above sea level and being 983089983088kilometres long the Vratnik Pass used to be a main route through themountain The Romans built a road along it and in the Middle Agesa strong fort guarded it a frequent site of battles between Bulgariansand Byzantines The importance of the pass was mirrored in its nameZhelezni Vrata and Demir Kapiya mean Iron Gates in Bulgarian andTurkish resepctively The modern-day name of the pass Vratnik wasadopted in 9830899830979830921048626 and just means Gate
Today the pass is almost deserted as most drivers prefer to avoid thenarrow potholed road which zigzags through a thick forest Even insummer when you stop at the highest part of the pass to look for theKamchiyas source you will most probably find the place empty
Actually empty means empty of tourists The forest around thespring is the temporary home of of some Gypsies families dealing with lumberjacking and mushroom-pickingTheir ragged tents madeof old blankets and sheets of nylon are all over the place as are theheaps of household garbage
The scenery becomes almost surreal when mist descends drenchingthe forest in white and leaving only the dark trunks of the closesttrees visible
The Luda Kamchiyas spring is east of the road in a depressionhidden by tall trees Spectacular it is not as it is fed into a waterfountain The water fountain inscription however is grandiose Tothose fallen for freedom Glorify their sacred feat you unendinglyflowing Kamchiya
There is some justification for this Only 1048626 kilometres east of thespring is Aglikina Polyana or Aglikas Meadow where the Bulgarianhayduti or 983089983097th Century rebels used to meet They lived in themountains as far away from the Ottoman authorities as possibleexcept for when they attacked and robbed Ottoman convoys at the pass
Aglikina Polyana is heavily represented in Bulgarian heroic folklorehas a protected area status and hosts a regular folklore meeting
You can visit Aglikina Polyana from here but in any case be sure to
kneel at the water fountain which is the source of the Luda Kamchiyaand take a drink It is not that often that you can drink the cool clear waters of a river at its source
Top Semi-wild horses roam freely
around the Vratnik Pass
Bottom The beginnings of a 200-
kilometre Luda Kamchiya river
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Remote village pro983158idesunspoilt old-time atmosphere great ood by Violeta Rozova photography by Anthony Georgieff
Rural tourism in Bulgaria was barely known 1048626983088 years ago butin the early 1048626983088983088983088s it experienced an EU-funded boom But in thelate 1048626983088983088983088s the still ongoing economic crisis hit and now manyguesthouses are struggling to survive with the decreased numberof visitors In the western fringes of the Rhodope however is atraditional village which is still one of the best places for ruraltourism in Bulgaria
Leshten close to Gotse Delchev actually invented rural tourismin Bulgaria Since the mid-983089983097983097983088s it has been the first choice for anescape from the big city for all those interested in clean air delicioushealthy food and genuinely and intelligently preserved architecture
Truth to tell Leshten is hardly a village nowadays Only 983089983088 peoplelive there and most of them are septuagenarian In the 983089983097th and thefirst half of the 1048626983088th centuries however Leshten was a bustling placehome to more than 983093983088983088 people Unlike the inhabitants of nearbyKovachevitsa who built three- and four-storey mini fortresses to
protect their riches the people of Leshten were poor They had lessto lose and so they built houses of only two floors The ground level was for the livestock and the one above for the families
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Top A statue of two icecream
cones
Bottom The Buzludzha complex is
famous for its ghastly atmosphere
32
4
Kovachevitsa and Leshten both began to lose inhabitants at a greatrate after the Communist coup of 983089983097983092983092 when industrialisation andforced collectivisation striped the villagers of their livelihood andforced them to seek jobs in cities Kovachevitsa as a much grander village attracted the attention of Bulgarian film-makers in the 983089983097983095983088sand experienced a wave of new settlers mostly Sofia intellectuals who bought holiday homes there
Leshten was rediscovered much laterIn the mid-983089983097983097983088s a couple from Sofia found themselves in the
village with its ghostly and abandoned old houses They fell in love with Leshten as it had an unexpected advantage over crowd-pulling
Kovachevitsa Kovachevitsa is deep in the mountains and does nothave much of a vistaLeshten however has a marvellous view over the valley of the
Mesta River with the blue slopes of the Pirin defining the horizon983121uite unusually for the mid-983089983097983097983088s when everyone was either
leaving Bulgaria or flocking to Sofia where job prospects were betterthe couple moved to Leshten They bought some of the houses andturned them into holiday lets while preserving as much as possiblethe traditional architecture and opened one of the best restaurants
in Bulgaria This was in the long-disused local school next to thebeautiful and tiny St Paraskeva Church which dates from 9830899830963983094 and iscovered inside with primitive but captivating murals
1
1 The key to your room Each
detail in the 200-year old Leshten
houses has been preserved
2 3 The St Paraskeva Church
was built in 1837 and has been
listed as a local monument of
culture
4 Having breakfast while enjoying
the view to the Mesta Valley and
the Pirin is one of Leshtens many
pleasures
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The food in the tavern was locally sourced long before this became
fashionable Almost everything on the menu comes from the areafrom the wild berry juice and the thick sheeprsquos yoghurt to thetraditional egg noodles and the meatballs which are prepared not ofmince but of finely chopped meat
The restored traditional houses are on a par with the foods qualityIntelligently preserved yet having mod cons they smell of ageing wood geraniums and of woollen rugs warmed by the sun The wallsare whitewashed white linen curtains with embroidery shade the windows and the slightly crooked beams of the floor squeak quietly
under your feetRecently however more people decided to profit on Leshten
More houses were turned into hotels and as the competition grewone night the old school caught fire and burned to the ground Thetavern was re-established in a newer building with a beautiful viewof the Mesta Valley The food is still gorgeous the best the Rhodopeand the people living in these beautiful mountains can give you
This series of articles is supported by theAmerica for Bulgaria Foundation The
statements and opinions expressed herein
are those of the authors and do not necessarily
reflect the opinion of the America for Bulgaria
Foundation and its partners
1 Stone was used extensively in
building the houses of Leshten
and even the roofs are f rom rock
The technique was popular in
Bulgaria until the beginning of
the 20th Century but was later
abandoned It has been enjoying
a revival in recent years as surge
of interest in eco tourism has
brought it back to fashion
2 Leshten is a good basefor exploring of the Western
Rhodope with traditional villages
like Kovachevitsa and Dolen and
pristine wild nature all around
3 Fresco from St Paraskeva
Church with a didactic scene
advertising the advantages of
pious life
3
1
2
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Case study of senior Communist offi cialElena Lagadinova reveals unexpectedaspects of superpower confrontation
by Kristen Ghodsee all photographs courtesy of the author
One of the great ironies of the Cold War is that the twosuperpowers often championed issues that they cared little aboutin practice The East bloc defended the social rights of the worldrsquos workers while treating their own citizens like indentured servantsThe United States campaigned for political freedoms abroad whilebrutally oppressing or marginalising their own African-Americanand Native American populations at home Any rhetoric thatcould be deployed against the enemy became a weapon in the widerideological battle
Today historians and social scientists are studying the internationallegacies of these Cold War rivalries over social and politicalrights Whether it is labor conventions at the International LaborOrganisation political self-determination for previously colonisedcountries or the end to state-sanctioned racial discrimination in theUnited States or in apartheid-era South Africa the general scholarlyconsensus is that ordinary people ndash whether in the capitalist
Communist or developing worlds ndash benefitted from superpowercompetition An unintended consequence of American and Sovietgrandstanding was often real social progress
1
2
2
4
54
6 7
1 Elena The Amazon
Lagadinova in 1945
2 With Valentina Tereshkova
3 Delivering a speech in 1970
4 With the US activist Angela
Davis in 1972
5 Hosting a school for African
women leaders in Sofia in 1982
6 Lagadinova (left) with an
young Irina Bokova (right) at
the Third UN Conference on
Women in Nairobi in 1985
7 In Razlog with Kristen
Ghodsee in 2013
3
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Tousands o Hassidim gatherin Ukrainian city to celebrate
Jewish New Year by Dimana Trankova photography by Anthony Georgieff
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Dusty and drab devoid of any charm unless you count the 983089983096thCentury Sofyivka Park and the Georgian cheese pastries at the busstation the Ukrainian city of Uman would be a strong contender forthe most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe
But it is not the most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe ndash atleast not for a couple of days each year when it gets filled with joyfulcrowds of Ultra religious Jews flown in from as far as Canada BritainIsrael and Australia to celebrate the Jewish New Year usually inSeptember They all converge at Pushkin Street take out their heavyluggage and drag it to their rented rooms in small houses and tallSocialist apartment blocks Music is booming the smell of cookedfood comes from the tents of the openair eateries Happy people inthe streets greet each other smiling from ear to ear when they meetand embrace some old friend
Uman a city of roughly 983097983088983088983088983088 residents in western Ukraine is thefocus of pilgrimage for Hasidic Jews who come here to celebrate atthe tomb of one of their greatest spiritual leaders
Rebbe Nachman (9830899830959830951048626-983089983096983089983088) of Breslov was the great-grandson ofBaal Shem Tov the founder of Hasidism a conservative movementthat spread among the Ashkenazi Jews in Eastern Europe He showedthe first signs of having a special connection with the divine as earlyas 983089983095 and spent the next decades of his life moving around the areaof what is now western Ukraine and eastern Poland attractingfollowers Rebbe Nachmans travels even brought him to Palestine where he met and talked with prominent Jewish sages and scholars
In 9830899830969830881048626 he settled in Bratslav (as Breslov is more commonlyknown) and announced the creation of a new movement ofHasidism the Breslov Hasidism
When pilgrimage to Rebbe
Nachmans grave resumed in
the early 1990s the locals ofUman were amazed by the Rosh
Hashanah antics of visiting Jews
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Rebbe Nachman was incredibly popular but not everyone
liked him because of some of his more radical ideas one of whichencouraged people to feel free to find spiritual leaders for themselvesand to break with the tradition of the hereditary Hasidic dynastiesRebbe Nachman also encouraged the individual search for the divineHis teachings spread during tumultuous times The beginning of the983089983097th Century saw the spread of democratic ideas across Europe andfor the first time in centuries Jews enjoyed ndash at least theoretically ndashequal rights Many chose fuller integration into the modernEuropean society but for more conservative Jews these changesthreatened the foundation of their communities The teachingsof Rebbe Nachman were a sort of reaction to this trend blendingtradition with more individual freedom
Whether Rebbe Nachman thought of himself as a Messiah is stilla matter of dispute Some phrases from his teachings would makegreat Facebook quotes in todays era of soul-searching and positivethinking such as If you believe that you can damage then believethat you can fixrdquo or You are never given an obstacle you cannotovercome
In Breslov Rebbe Nachman saw his movement flourish andgrow with great crowds of followers assembling for feasts like RoshHashanah Chanukah or Shavuot when they eagerly listened to histeachings In 983089983096983089983088 however he had to move
Consumption had been devouring the still young Rebbe Nachmanfor some time and then his house was destroyed by fire He movedto nearby Uman a town of great significance for the local Jewishcommunity In 983089983095983094983096 about 1048626983088983088983088983088 Jews from Uman along withmany Poles and Uniate Ukrainians were killed by the UkrainianHaidamak rebels who had risen against the then Polish-LithuanianCommonwealth
1 Selling Rebbe Nachman-
themed techno music on Pushkin
Street
2 For many Breslov Hasidim the
pilgrimage is also an opportunity
to meet old friends and make
new ones
3 Rebbe Nachman is the
descendant of Baal Shem Tov the
founder of Hasidism a branch
of Orthodox Judaism wheremysticism is at the foundation of
spirituality
3
1
2
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Over the following two decades the Rosh Hashanah gatheringin Uman became ever stronger On average about 983089983088983088983088983088-983089983093983088983088983088Hasidim come to celebrate each year The atmosphere is festive in thestreets and tense around the grave of Rebbe Nachman and peopleare generally friendly even when they notice the odd tourist in thecrowd Many of the pilgrims get tipsy and dance to rave and rock
music booming from stalls gardens and balconies Children runto and fro carrying presents bought from the ramshackle openairmarket
There are signs however that these people are not the average partygoers The song lyrics are devoted to Rebbe Nachman Umanand Rosh Hashanah Shofars howl and the streets are lined withbarbers shaving the heads of pilgrims in the traditional way The posters on the walls announce the scheduled flights to and fromUman and the crowd is predominantly male
Sometimes there is violence Many locals are not happy with the pilgrims and the fact that many Hasidim have bought propertiesaround Pushkin Street introducing their very specific lifestyle Thereare complaints about the noise and the rubbish and the level ofsecurity 1048626983088983089983088 is remembered for several sometimes bloody fightsbetween locals and pilgrims Overall though visiting Uman for RoshHashanah can turn into the experience of a lifetime even for people with only a faint interest in Judaism The event is an immersion in abygone era right amid the post-Soviet reality of Ukraine
In 1048626983088983089983092 Rosh Hashanah begins at sunset on 1048626983092 September andends at nightfall of 1048626983094 September
Top After decades of
prosecution pilgrimage in Uman
is again safe and many children
mingle in the crowd
Bottom A Jewish boy tries his
brand new plastic gun bought
as a New Years present froma makeshift openair market in
Uman
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82
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150 984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143Stara Zagora50 Han Asparuh St Zagorka lakephone 042 985 555 042 985 555
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983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150983123983156983137983154983137 983130983137983143983151983154983137
Липи прави улици и дружелюбна
атмосфера в един от най-интересните градове на България
текст Димитър Ивановфотография Антони Георгиев
by Dimitar Ivanovphotography by Anthony Georgieff
Lindens straight streets and
fiendly atmosphere in one o themost interesting cities o Bulgaria
984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143984097984130984112984128984112 984087984112984115984126984128984112
Когато се чудите накъде да тръгнете в първите топлидни на есента Стара Загора е едно от най-добрите ре-шения Отдалечен на 10486263983088 км по магистрала Тракияградът е изключително близо за онези които живеят вСофия и предлага много повече спокойствие и зелени-на от столицата дружелюбна атмосфера приятни заве-дения и исторически и природни забележителностикоито да запълнят кратката ви ваканция
Стара Загора е един от най-старите градове в ЕвропаПървите хора се заселили тук около VII-VI хилядоле-тие пр Хр Около IV впрХр на мястото на съвремен-на Стара Загора се появява град на траките известен с
When you are wondering where to go for the first warm days of the autumn Stara Zagora is one of the bestsolutions About 10486263983088 km on the Trakiya Motorway thecity is close enough for those living in Sofia and offersmore serenity and greenery than the capital The city hasalso nice cafeacutes and restaurants and enough historical andnature sites to fill a short holiday
Stara Zagora is one of the oldest cities in EuropeThe fist people settled in the area around the 983095-983094thmillennia BC Around the 983092th Century BC on the placeof modern Stara Zagora appeared a settlement of theThracians which was called Beroe It was conquered by
phone 042 985 555 042 985 555reservationshotelstarazagoraeu
wwwhotelstarazagoraeu
The fi ve-star Park Hotel Stara Zagora is situated on the bank of the romantic Zagorka Lake in Stara Zagora
Hotel with 31 luxurious rooms two luxurious apartments and one VIP apartment
State-of-the-art SPA centre with swimming pool jacuzzi fitness hall steam bath sauna
Turkish bath and massage room
Six conference rooms with capacity between seven and 250 people equipped with multimedia
and other presentational technique and tools Orfeida Restaurant with amazing interior and a capacity for up to 150 people plus a summer and a winter garden
Park for biking fishing boating jogging and other sports and activities
All dreams lead toPark Hotel Stara Zagora
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
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where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
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38 39
Covering more than 983093 square kilometres Perperikon is the biggestmegalithic site in the Balkans
The first people arrived here 983096983088983088983088 years ago and carved the rocksso they could fill the crevices with fragments of pots as offerings tothe unknown deities or spirits they believed in Then these people
disappeared from Perperikon After a hiatus of about 983089983088983088983088 years atthe end of the 983093th and the beginning of the 983092th millennia BC thehill again became the focal point of religious activity In the 983089983096th-9830891048626thcenturies BC the sanctuary was already so extensive and famous thatartefacts belonging to the Minoan and Mycenaean civilisations arenow found there
Perperikon experienced a decline in the 983092th-983089st centuries BCbut when the Romans took over Thrace activity resumed and newbuildings adorned the hill In the 983094th Century however Christianity
took over and the sanctuary was abandoned Unlike other pagansacred places in the Balkans Perperikon did not fall completelysilent
Christians moved into the empty shrines built churches over themand turned Perperikon into the stronghold of local bishops It allcame to an end in 98308939830941048626 when the Ottomans invaded and people leftPerperikon for good leaving the hill to nature which soon swallowedup the remains of the churches and the Thracian shrines
The site was rediscovered by archaeologists in the 1048626983088th Century
but Perperikon only became a household name in the early 1048626983088983088983088s when excavations started again and the theory that it had belonged tothe Oracle of Dionysus was promoted as a proven fact
Previous spread Remains of cult
pits and graves in the bedrock
Perperikon was built on solid rock
so the bases of each building and
even the graves were hewn in
the stone
Deciphering the traces in the
bedrock is not easy Some believe
that the pits covering the surface
of Perperikon were only for ritual
purposes Actually most weremade to support columns of
buildings or to store food and
liquids
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Major river breaks outin Stara Planina heading
towards Black Seaby Minka Vazkresenska photography by Anthony Georgieff
How to define the source of a river is often a tough question toanswer Is it where water springs from the ground for the first timeor is it the place where two or more streams merge into a larger flowEven the source of the Danube Europes largest river is contentiousat least three springs claim to be the beginnings of the mighty river
The Kamchiya River is no exception Theoretically it is only983092983094 kilometres long and flows through northeastern Bulgaria before joining the Black Sea at a particularly beautiful and terrifyinglymosquito-infested forest With its major tributary the Golyama orGrand Kamchiya the river is 1048626983092983092 kilometres long making it the983096th longest river in Bulgaria The official source of the GolyamaKamchiya ndash and of the Kamchiya ndash is in the Lisa Planina at analtitude of about 983095983089983088 metres above sea level
But there is a spot high up in the Stara Planina on the border ofits central and eastern parts which has gained popularity as the truesource of the Kamchiya It is where the second major tributaryof the river confusingly called the Luda or Crazy Kamchiya springsup as a tiny stream runs eastwards for 1048626983088983088 kilometres and joins theGolyama Kamchiya The Luda Kamchiya is the 983089983088th longest river inBulgaria
The popularity of the Luda Kamchiyas spring as the genuinebeginning of the Kamchiya River (are you already confused)
is probably due to its location It is in a pleasant and historicallysignificant spot the Vratnik Pass connecting Veliko Tarnovo andElena to the north with Sliven south of the Stara Planina
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Situated at an altitude of 983089983088983097983095 metres above sea level and being 983089983088kilometres long the Vratnik Pass used to be a main route through themountain The Romans built a road along it and in the Middle Agesa strong fort guarded it a frequent site of battles between Bulgariansand Byzantines The importance of the pass was mirrored in its nameZhelezni Vrata and Demir Kapiya mean Iron Gates in Bulgarian andTurkish resepctively The modern-day name of the pass Vratnik wasadopted in 9830899830979830921048626 and just means Gate
Today the pass is almost deserted as most drivers prefer to avoid thenarrow potholed road which zigzags through a thick forest Even insummer when you stop at the highest part of the pass to look for theKamchiyas source you will most probably find the place empty
Actually empty means empty of tourists The forest around thespring is the temporary home of of some Gypsies families dealing with lumberjacking and mushroom-pickingTheir ragged tents madeof old blankets and sheets of nylon are all over the place as are theheaps of household garbage
The scenery becomes almost surreal when mist descends drenchingthe forest in white and leaving only the dark trunks of the closesttrees visible
The Luda Kamchiyas spring is east of the road in a depressionhidden by tall trees Spectacular it is not as it is fed into a waterfountain The water fountain inscription however is grandiose Tothose fallen for freedom Glorify their sacred feat you unendinglyflowing Kamchiya
There is some justification for this Only 1048626 kilometres east of thespring is Aglikina Polyana or Aglikas Meadow where the Bulgarianhayduti or 983089983097th Century rebels used to meet They lived in themountains as far away from the Ottoman authorities as possibleexcept for when they attacked and robbed Ottoman convoys at the pass
Aglikina Polyana is heavily represented in Bulgarian heroic folklorehas a protected area status and hosts a regular folklore meeting
You can visit Aglikina Polyana from here but in any case be sure to
kneel at the water fountain which is the source of the Luda Kamchiyaand take a drink It is not that often that you can drink the cool clear waters of a river at its source
Top Semi-wild horses roam freely
around the Vratnik Pass
Bottom The beginnings of a 200-
kilometre Luda Kamchiya river
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Remote village pro983158idesunspoilt old-time atmosphere great ood by Violeta Rozova photography by Anthony Georgieff
Rural tourism in Bulgaria was barely known 1048626983088 years ago butin the early 1048626983088983088983088s it experienced an EU-funded boom But in thelate 1048626983088983088983088s the still ongoing economic crisis hit and now manyguesthouses are struggling to survive with the decreased numberof visitors In the western fringes of the Rhodope however is atraditional village which is still one of the best places for ruraltourism in Bulgaria
Leshten close to Gotse Delchev actually invented rural tourismin Bulgaria Since the mid-983089983097983097983088s it has been the first choice for anescape from the big city for all those interested in clean air delicioushealthy food and genuinely and intelligently preserved architecture
Truth to tell Leshten is hardly a village nowadays Only 983089983088 peoplelive there and most of them are septuagenarian In the 983089983097th and thefirst half of the 1048626983088th centuries however Leshten was a bustling placehome to more than 983093983088983088 people Unlike the inhabitants of nearbyKovachevitsa who built three- and four-storey mini fortresses to
protect their riches the people of Leshten were poor They had lessto lose and so they built houses of only two floors The ground level was for the livestock and the one above for the families
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Top A statue of two icecream
cones
Bottom The Buzludzha complex is
famous for its ghastly atmosphere
32
4
Kovachevitsa and Leshten both began to lose inhabitants at a greatrate after the Communist coup of 983089983097983092983092 when industrialisation andforced collectivisation striped the villagers of their livelihood andforced them to seek jobs in cities Kovachevitsa as a much grander village attracted the attention of Bulgarian film-makers in the 983089983097983095983088sand experienced a wave of new settlers mostly Sofia intellectuals who bought holiday homes there
Leshten was rediscovered much laterIn the mid-983089983097983097983088s a couple from Sofia found themselves in the
village with its ghostly and abandoned old houses They fell in love with Leshten as it had an unexpected advantage over crowd-pulling
Kovachevitsa Kovachevitsa is deep in the mountains and does nothave much of a vistaLeshten however has a marvellous view over the valley of the
Mesta River with the blue slopes of the Pirin defining the horizon983121uite unusually for the mid-983089983097983097983088s when everyone was either
leaving Bulgaria or flocking to Sofia where job prospects were betterthe couple moved to Leshten They bought some of the houses andturned them into holiday lets while preserving as much as possiblethe traditional architecture and opened one of the best restaurants
in Bulgaria This was in the long-disused local school next to thebeautiful and tiny St Paraskeva Church which dates from 9830899830963983094 and iscovered inside with primitive but captivating murals
1
1 The key to your room Each
detail in the 200-year old Leshten
houses has been preserved
2 3 The St Paraskeva Church
was built in 1837 and has been
listed as a local monument of
culture
4 Having breakfast while enjoying
the view to the Mesta Valley and
the Pirin is one of Leshtens many
pleasures
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The food in the tavern was locally sourced long before this became
fashionable Almost everything on the menu comes from the areafrom the wild berry juice and the thick sheeprsquos yoghurt to thetraditional egg noodles and the meatballs which are prepared not ofmince but of finely chopped meat
The restored traditional houses are on a par with the foods qualityIntelligently preserved yet having mod cons they smell of ageing wood geraniums and of woollen rugs warmed by the sun The wallsare whitewashed white linen curtains with embroidery shade the windows and the slightly crooked beams of the floor squeak quietly
under your feetRecently however more people decided to profit on Leshten
More houses were turned into hotels and as the competition grewone night the old school caught fire and burned to the ground Thetavern was re-established in a newer building with a beautiful viewof the Mesta Valley The food is still gorgeous the best the Rhodopeand the people living in these beautiful mountains can give you
This series of articles is supported by theAmerica for Bulgaria Foundation The
statements and opinions expressed herein
are those of the authors and do not necessarily
reflect the opinion of the America for Bulgaria
Foundation and its partners
1 Stone was used extensively in
building the houses of Leshten
and even the roofs are f rom rock
The technique was popular in
Bulgaria until the beginning of
the 20th Century but was later
abandoned It has been enjoying
a revival in recent years as surge
of interest in eco tourism has
brought it back to fashion
2 Leshten is a good basefor exploring of the Western
Rhodope with traditional villages
like Kovachevitsa and Dolen and
pristine wild nature all around
3 Fresco from St Paraskeva
Church with a didactic scene
advertising the advantages of
pious life
3
1
2
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Case study of senior Communist offi cialElena Lagadinova reveals unexpectedaspects of superpower confrontation
by Kristen Ghodsee all photographs courtesy of the author
One of the great ironies of the Cold War is that the twosuperpowers often championed issues that they cared little aboutin practice The East bloc defended the social rights of the worldrsquos workers while treating their own citizens like indentured servantsThe United States campaigned for political freedoms abroad whilebrutally oppressing or marginalising their own African-Americanand Native American populations at home Any rhetoric thatcould be deployed against the enemy became a weapon in the widerideological battle
Today historians and social scientists are studying the internationallegacies of these Cold War rivalries over social and politicalrights Whether it is labor conventions at the International LaborOrganisation political self-determination for previously colonisedcountries or the end to state-sanctioned racial discrimination in theUnited States or in apartheid-era South Africa the general scholarlyconsensus is that ordinary people ndash whether in the capitalist
Communist or developing worlds ndash benefitted from superpowercompetition An unintended consequence of American and Sovietgrandstanding was often real social progress
1
2
2
4
54
6 7
1 Elena The Amazon
Lagadinova in 1945
2 With Valentina Tereshkova
3 Delivering a speech in 1970
4 With the US activist Angela
Davis in 1972
5 Hosting a school for African
women leaders in Sofia in 1982
6 Lagadinova (left) with an
young Irina Bokova (right) at
the Third UN Conference on
Women in Nairobi in 1985
7 In Razlog with Kristen
Ghodsee in 2013
3
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Tousands o Hassidim gatherin Ukrainian city to celebrate
Jewish New Year by Dimana Trankova photography by Anthony Georgieff
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Dusty and drab devoid of any charm unless you count the 983089983096thCentury Sofyivka Park and the Georgian cheese pastries at the busstation the Ukrainian city of Uman would be a strong contender forthe most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe
But it is not the most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe ndash atleast not for a couple of days each year when it gets filled with joyfulcrowds of Ultra religious Jews flown in from as far as Canada BritainIsrael and Australia to celebrate the Jewish New Year usually inSeptember They all converge at Pushkin Street take out their heavyluggage and drag it to their rented rooms in small houses and tallSocialist apartment blocks Music is booming the smell of cookedfood comes from the tents of the openair eateries Happy people inthe streets greet each other smiling from ear to ear when they meetand embrace some old friend
Uman a city of roughly 983097983088983088983088983088 residents in western Ukraine is thefocus of pilgrimage for Hasidic Jews who come here to celebrate atthe tomb of one of their greatest spiritual leaders
Rebbe Nachman (9830899830959830951048626-983089983096983089983088) of Breslov was the great-grandson ofBaal Shem Tov the founder of Hasidism a conservative movementthat spread among the Ashkenazi Jews in Eastern Europe He showedthe first signs of having a special connection with the divine as earlyas 983089983095 and spent the next decades of his life moving around the areaof what is now western Ukraine and eastern Poland attractingfollowers Rebbe Nachmans travels even brought him to Palestine where he met and talked with prominent Jewish sages and scholars
In 9830899830969830881048626 he settled in Bratslav (as Breslov is more commonlyknown) and announced the creation of a new movement ofHasidism the Breslov Hasidism
When pilgrimage to Rebbe
Nachmans grave resumed in
the early 1990s the locals ofUman were amazed by the Rosh
Hashanah antics of visiting Jews
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Rebbe Nachman was incredibly popular but not everyone
liked him because of some of his more radical ideas one of whichencouraged people to feel free to find spiritual leaders for themselvesand to break with the tradition of the hereditary Hasidic dynastiesRebbe Nachman also encouraged the individual search for the divineHis teachings spread during tumultuous times The beginning of the983089983097th Century saw the spread of democratic ideas across Europe andfor the first time in centuries Jews enjoyed ndash at least theoretically ndashequal rights Many chose fuller integration into the modernEuropean society but for more conservative Jews these changesthreatened the foundation of their communities The teachingsof Rebbe Nachman were a sort of reaction to this trend blendingtradition with more individual freedom
Whether Rebbe Nachman thought of himself as a Messiah is stilla matter of dispute Some phrases from his teachings would makegreat Facebook quotes in todays era of soul-searching and positivethinking such as If you believe that you can damage then believethat you can fixrdquo or You are never given an obstacle you cannotovercome
In Breslov Rebbe Nachman saw his movement flourish andgrow with great crowds of followers assembling for feasts like RoshHashanah Chanukah or Shavuot when they eagerly listened to histeachings In 983089983096983089983088 however he had to move
Consumption had been devouring the still young Rebbe Nachmanfor some time and then his house was destroyed by fire He movedto nearby Uman a town of great significance for the local Jewishcommunity In 983089983095983094983096 about 1048626983088983088983088983088 Jews from Uman along withmany Poles and Uniate Ukrainians were killed by the UkrainianHaidamak rebels who had risen against the then Polish-LithuanianCommonwealth
1 Selling Rebbe Nachman-
themed techno music on Pushkin
Street
2 For many Breslov Hasidim the
pilgrimage is also an opportunity
to meet old friends and make
new ones
3 Rebbe Nachman is the
descendant of Baal Shem Tov the
founder of Hasidism a branch
of Orthodox Judaism wheremysticism is at the foundation of
spirituality
3
1
2
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Over the following two decades the Rosh Hashanah gatheringin Uman became ever stronger On average about 983089983088983088983088983088-983089983093983088983088983088Hasidim come to celebrate each year The atmosphere is festive in thestreets and tense around the grave of Rebbe Nachman and peopleare generally friendly even when they notice the odd tourist in thecrowd Many of the pilgrims get tipsy and dance to rave and rock
music booming from stalls gardens and balconies Children runto and fro carrying presents bought from the ramshackle openairmarket
There are signs however that these people are not the average partygoers The song lyrics are devoted to Rebbe Nachman Umanand Rosh Hashanah Shofars howl and the streets are lined withbarbers shaving the heads of pilgrims in the traditional way The posters on the walls announce the scheduled flights to and fromUman and the crowd is predominantly male
Sometimes there is violence Many locals are not happy with the pilgrims and the fact that many Hasidim have bought propertiesaround Pushkin Street introducing their very specific lifestyle Thereare complaints about the noise and the rubbish and the level ofsecurity 1048626983088983089983088 is remembered for several sometimes bloody fightsbetween locals and pilgrims Overall though visiting Uman for RoshHashanah can turn into the experience of a lifetime even for people with only a faint interest in Judaism The event is an immersion in abygone era right amid the post-Soviet reality of Ukraine
In 1048626983088983089983092 Rosh Hashanah begins at sunset on 1048626983092 September andends at nightfall of 1048626983094 September
Top After decades of
prosecution pilgrimage in Uman
is again safe and many children
mingle in the crowd
Bottom A Jewish boy tries his
brand new plastic gun bought
as a New Years present froma makeshift openair market in
Uman
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82
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150 984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143Stara Zagora50 Han Asparuh St Zagorka lakephone 042 985 555 042 985 555
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983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150983123983156983137983154983137 983130983137983143983151983154983137
Липи прави улици и дружелюбна
атмосфера в един от най-интересните градове на България
текст Димитър Ивановфотография Антони Георгиев
by Dimitar Ivanovphotography by Anthony Georgieff
Lindens straight streets and
fiendly atmosphere in one o themost interesting cities o Bulgaria
984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143984097984130984112984128984112 984087984112984115984126984128984112
Когато се чудите накъде да тръгнете в първите топлидни на есента Стара Загора е едно от най-добрите ре-шения Отдалечен на 10486263983088 км по магистрала Тракияградът е изключително близо за онези които живеят вСофия и предлага много повече спокойствие и зелени-на от столицата дружелюбна атмосфера приятни заве-дения и исторически и природни забележителностикоито да запълнят кратката ви ваканция
Стара Загора е един от най-старите градове в ЕвропаПървите хора се заселили тук около VII-VI хилядоле-тие пр Хр Около IV впрХр на мястото на съвремен-на Стара Загора се появява град на траките известен с
When you are wondering where to go for the first warm days of the autumn Stara Zagora is one of the bestsolutions About 10486263983088 km on the Trakiya Motorway thecity is close enough for those living in Sofia and offersmore serenity and greenery than the capital The city hasalso nice cafeacutes and restaurants and enough historical andnature sites to fill a short holiday
Stara Zagora is one of the oldest cities in EuropeThe fist people settled in the area around the 983095-983094thmillennia BC Around the 983092th Century BC on the placeof modern Stara Zagora appeared a settlement of theThracians which was called Beroe It was conquered by
phone 042 985 555 042 985 555reservationshotelstarazagoraeu
wwwhotelstarazagoraeu
The fi ve-star Park Hotel Stara Zagora is situated on the bank of the romantic Zagorka Lake in Stara Zagora
Hotel with 31 luxurious rooms two luxurious apartments and one VIP apartment
State-of-the-art SPA centre with swimming pool jacuzzi fitness hall steam bath sauna
Turkish bath and massage room
Six conference rooms with capacity between seven and 250 people equipped with multimedia
and other presentational technique and tools Orfeida Restaurant with amazing interior and a capacity for up to 150 people plus a summer and a winter garden
Park for biking fishing boating jogging and other sports and activities
All dreams lead toPark Hotel Stara Zagora
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
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where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
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Major river breaks outin Stara Planina heading
towards Black Seaby Minka Vazkresenska photography by Anthony Georgieff
How to define the source of a river is often a tough question toanswer Is it where water springs from the ground for the first timeor is it the place where two or more streams merge into a larger flowEven the source of the Danube Europes largest river is contentiousat least three springs claim to be the beginnings of the mighty river
The Kamchiya River is no exception Theoretically it is only983092983094 kilometres long and flows through northeastern Bulgaria before joining the Black Sea at a particularly beautiful and terrifyinglymosquito-infested forest With its major tributary the Golyama orGrand Kamchiya the river is 1048626983092983092 kilometres long making it the983096th longest river in Bulgaria The official source of the GolyamaKamchiya ndash and of the Kamchiya ndash is in the Lisa Planina at analtitude of about 983095983089983088 metres above sea level
But there is a spot high up in the Stara Planina on the border ofits central and eastern parts which has gained popularity as the truesource of the Kamchiya It is where the second major tributaryof the river confusingly called the Luda or Crazy Kamchiya springsup as a tiny stream runs eastwards for 1048626983088983088 kilometres and joins theGolyama Kamchiya The Luda Kamchiya is the 983089983088th longest river inBulgaria
The popularity of the Luda Kamchiyas spring as the genuinebeginning of the Kamchiya River (are you already confused)
is probably due to its location It is in a pleasant and historicallysignificant spot the Vratnik Pass connecting Veliko Tarnovo andElena to the north with Sliven south of the Stara Planina
44 45
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Situated at an altitude of 983089983088983097983095 metres above sea level and being 983089983088kilometres long the Vratnik Pass used to be a main route through themountain The Romans built a road along it and in the Middle Agesa strong fort guarded it a frequent site of battles between Bulgariansand Byzantines The importance of the pass was mirrored in its nameZhelezni Vrata and Demir Kapiya mean Iron Gates in Bulgarian andTurkish resepctively The modern-day name of the pass Vratnik wasadopted in 9830899830979830921048626 and just means Gate
Today the pass is almost deserted as most drivers prefer to avoid thenarrow potholed road which zigzags through a thick forest Even insummer when you stop at the highest part of the pass to look for theKamchiyas source you will most probably find the place empty
Actually empty means empty of tourists The forest around thespring is the temporary home of of some Gypsies families dealing with lumberjacking and mushroom-pickingTheir ragged tents madeof old blankets and sheets of nylon are all over the place as are theheaps of household garbage
The scenery becomes almost surreal when mist descends drenchingthe forest in white and leaving only the dark trunks of the closesttrees visible
The Luda Kamchiyas spring is east of the road in a depressionhidden by tall trees Spectacular it is not as it is fed into a waterfountain The water fountain inscription however is grandiose Tothose fallen for freedom Glorify their sacred feat you unendinglyflowing Kamchiya
There is some justification for this Only 1048626 kilometres east of thespring is Aglikina Polyana or Aglikas Meadow where the Bulgarianhayduti or 983089983097th Century rebels used to meet They lived in themountains as far away from the Ottoman authorities as possibleexcept for when they attacked and robbed Ottoman convoys at the pass
Aglikina Polyana is heavily represented in Bulgarian heroic folklorehas a protected area status and hosts a regular folklore meeting
You can visit Aglikina Polyana from here but in any case be sure to
kneel at the water fountain which is the source of the Luda Kamchiyaand take a drink It is not that often that you can drink the cool clear waters of a river at its source
Top Semi-wild horses roam freely
around the Vratnik Pass
Bottom The beginnings of a 200-
kilometre Luda Kamchiya river
46 47
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Remote village pro983158idesunspoilt old-time atmosphere great ood by Violeta Rozova photography by Anthony Georgieff
Rural tourism in Bulgaria was barely known 1048626983088 years ago butin the early 1048626983088983088983088s it experienced an EU-funded boom But in thelate 1048626983088983088983088s the still ongoing economic crisis hit and now manyguesthouses are struggling to survive with the decreased numberof visitors In the western fringes of the Rhodope however is atraditional village which is still one of the best places for ruraltourism in Bulgaria
Leshten close to Gotse Delchev actually invented rural tourismin Bulgaria Since the mid-983089983097983097983088s it has been the first choice for anescape from the big city for all those interested in clean air delicioushealthy food and genuinely and intelligently preserved architecture
Truth to tell Leshten is hardly a village nowadays Only 983089983088 peoplelive there and most of them are septuagenarian In the 983089983097th and thefirst half of the 1048626983088th centuries however Leshten was a bustling placehome to more than 983093983088983088 people Unlike the inhabitants of nearbyKovachevitsa who built three- and four-storey mini fortresses to
protect their riches the people of Leshten were poor They had lessto lose and so they built houses of only two floors The ground level was for the livestock and the one above for the families
48 49
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4 49
Top A statue of two icecream
cones
Bottom The Buzludzha complex is
famous for its ghastly atmosphere
32
4
Kovachevitsa and Leshten both began to lose inhabitants at a greatrate after the Communist coup of 983089983097983092983092 when industrialisation andforced collectivisation striped the villagers of their livelihood andforced them to seek jobs in cities Kovachevitsa as a much grander village attracted the attention of Bulgarian film-makers in the 983089983097983095983088sand experienced a wave of new settlers mostly Sofia intellectuals who bought holiday homes there
Leshten was rediscovered much laterIn the mid-983089983097983097983088s a couple from Sofia found themselves in the
village with its ghostly and abandoned old houses They fell in love with Leshten as it had an unexpected advantage over crowd-pulling
Kovachevitsa Kovachevitsa is deep in the mountains and does nothave much of a vistaLeshten however has a marvellous view over the valley of the
Mesta River with the blue slopes of the Pirin defining the horizon983121uite unusually for the mid-983089983097983097983088s when everyone was either
leaving Bulgaria or flocking to Sofia where job prospects were betterthe couple moved to Leshten They bought some of the houses andturned them into holiday lets while preserving as much as possiblethe traditional architecture and opened one of the best restaurants
in Bulgaria This was in the long-disused local school next to thebeautiful and tiny St Paraskeva Church which dates from 9830899830963983094 and iscovered inside with primitive but captivating murals
1
1 The key to your room Each
detail in the 200-year old Leshten
houses has been preserved
2 3 The St Paraskeva Church
was built in 1837 and has been
listed as a local monument of
culture
4 Having breakfast while enjoying
the view to the Mesta Valley and
the Pirin is one of Leshtens many
pleasures
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The food in the tavern was locally sourced long before this became
fashionable Almost everything on the menu comes from the areafrom the wild berry juice and the thick sheeprsquos yoghurt to thetraditional egg noodles and the meatballs which are prepared not ofmince but of finely chopped meat
The restored traditional houses are on a par with the foods qualityIntelligently preserved yet having mod cons they smell of ageing wood geraniums and of woollen rugs warmed by the sun The wallsare whitewashed white linen curtains with embroidery shade the windows and the slightly crooked beams of the floor squeak quietly
under your feetRecently however more people decided to profit on Leshten
More houses were turned into hotels and as the competition grewone night the old school caught fire and burned to the ground Thetavern was re-established in a newer building with a beautiful viewof the Mesta Valley The food is still gorgeous the best the Rhodopeand the people living in these beautiful mountains can give you
This series of articles is supported by theAmerica for Bulgaria Foundation The
statements and opinions expressed herein
are those of the authors and do not necessarily
reflect the opinion of the America for Bulgaria
Foundation and its partners
1 Stone was used extensively in
building the houses of Leshten
and even the roofs are f rom rock
The technique was popular in
Bulgaria until the beginning of
the 20th Century but was later
abandoned It has been enjoying
a revival in recent years as surge
of interest in eco tourism has
brought it back to fashion
2 Leshten is a good basefor exploring of the Western
Rhodope with traditional villages
like Kovachevitsa and Dolen and
pristine wild nature all around
3 Fresco from St Paraskeva
Church with a didactic scene
advertising the advantages of
pious life
3
1
2
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Case study of senior Communist offi cialElena Lagadinova reveals unexpectedaspects of superpower confrontation
by Kristen Ghodsee all photographs courtesy of the author
One of the great ironies of the Cold War is that the twosuperpowers often championed issues that they cared little aboutin practice The East bloc defended the social rights of the worldrsquos workers while treating their own citizens like indentured servantsThe United States campaigned for political freedoms abroad whilebrutally oppressing or marginalising their own African-Americanand Native American populations at home Any rhetoric thatcould be deployed against the enemy became a weapon in the widerideological battle
Today historians and social scientists are studying the internationallegacies of these Cold War rivalries over social and politicalrights Whether it is labor conventions at the International LaborOrganisation political self-determination for previously colonisedcountries or the end to state-sanctioned racial discrimination in theUnited States or in apartheid-era South Africa the general scholarlyconsensus is that ordinary people ndash whether in the capitalist
Communist or developing worlds ndash benefitted from superpowercompetition An unintended consequence of American and Sovietgrandstanding was often real social progress
1
2
2
4
54
6 7
1 Elena The Amazon
Lagadinova in 1945
2 With Valentina Tereshkova
3 Delivering a speech in 1970
4 With the US activist Angela
Davis in 1972
5 Hosting a school for African
women leaders in Sofia in 1982
6 Lagadinova (left) with an
young Irina Bokova (right) at
the Third UN Conference on
Women in Nairobi in 1985
7 In Razlog with Kristen
Ghodsee in 2013
3
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Tousands o Hassidim gatherin Ukrainian city to celebrate
Jewish New Year by Dimana Trankova photography by Anthony Georgieff
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Dusty and drab devoid of any charm unless you count the 983089983096thCentury Sofyivka Park and the Georgian cheese pastries at the busstation the Ukrainian city of Uman would be a strong contender forthe most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe
But it is not the most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe ndash atleast not for a couple of days each year when it gets filled with joyfulcrowds of Ultra religious Jews flown in from as far as Canada BritainIsrael and Australia to celebrate the Jewish New Year usually inSeptember They all converge at Pushkin Street take out their heavyluggage and drag it to their rented rooms in small houses and tallSocialist apartment blocks Music is booming the smell of cookedfood comes from the tents of the openair eateries Happy people inthe streets greet each other smiling from ear to ear when they meetand embrace some old friend
Uman a city of roughly 983097983088983088983088983088 residents in western Ukraine is thefocus of pilgrimage for Hasidic Jews who come here to celebrate atthe tomb of one of their greatest spiritual leaders
Rebbe Nachman (9830899830959830951048626-983089983096983089983088) of Breslov was the great-grandson ofBaal Shem Tov the founder of Hasidism a conservative movementthat spread among the Ashkenazi Jews in Eastern Europe He showedthe first signs of having a special connection with the divine as earlyas 983089983095 and spent the next decades of his life moving around the areaof what is now western Ukraine and eastern Poland attractingfollowers Rebbe Nachmans travels even brought him to Palestine where he met and talked with prominent Jewish sages and scholars
In 9830899830969830881048626 he settled in Bratslav (as Breslov is more commonlyknown) and announced the creation of a new movement ofHasidism the Breslov Hasidism
When pilgrimage to Rebbe
Nachmans grave resumed in
the early 1990s the locals ofUman were amazed by the Rosh
Hashanah antics of visiting Jews
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Rebbe Nachman was incredibly popular but not everyone
liked him because of some of his more radical ideas one of whichencouraged people to feel free to find spiritual leaders for themselvesand to break with the tradition of the hereditary Hasidic dynastiesRebbe Nachman also encouraged the individual search for the divineHis teachings spread during tumultuous times The beginning of the983089983097th Century saw the spread of democratic ideas across Europe andfor the first time in centuries Jews enjoyed ndash at least theoretically ndashequal rights Many chose fuller integration into the modernEuropean society but for more conservative Jews these changesthreatened the foundation of their communities The teachingsof Rebbe Nachman were a sort of reaction to this trend blendingtradition with more individual freedom
Whether Rebbe Nachman thought of himself as a Messiah is stilla matter of dispute Some phrases from his teachings would makegreat Facebook quotes in todays era of soul-searching and positivethinking such as If you believe that you can damage then believethat you can fixrdquo or You are never given an obstacle you cannotovercome
In Breslov Rebbe Nachman saw his movement flourish andgrow with great crowds of followers assembling for feasts like RoshHashanah Chanukah or Shavuot when they eagerly listened to histeachings In 983089983096983089983088 however he had to move
Consumption had been devouring the still young Rebbe Nachmanfor some time and then his house was destroyed by fire He movedto nearby Uman a town of great significance for the local Jewishcommunity In 983089983095983094983096 about 1048626983088983088983088983088 Jews from Uman along withmany Poles and Uniate Ukrainians were killed by the UkrainianHaidamak rebels who had risen against the then Polish-LithuanianCommonwealth
1 Selling Rebbe Nachman-
themed techno music on Pushkin
Street
2 For many Breslov Hasidim the
pilgrimage is also an opportunity
to meet old friends and make
new ones
3 Rebbe Nachman is the
descendant of Baal Shem Tov the
founder of Hasidism a branch
of Orthodox Judaism wheremysticism is at the foundation of
spirituality
3
1
2
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Over the following two decades the Rosh Hashanah gatheringin Uman became ever stronger On average about 983089983088983088983088983088-983089983093983088983088983088Hasidim come to celebrate each year The atmosphere is festive in thestreets and tense around the grave of Rebbe Nachman and peopleare generally friendly even when they notice the odd tourist in thecrowd Many of the pilgrims get tipsy and dance to rave and rock
music booming from stalls gardens and balconies Children runto and fro carrying presents bought from the ramshackle openairmarket
There are signs however that these people are not the average partygoers The song lyrics are devoted to Rebbe Nachman Umanand Rosh Hashanah Shofars howl and the streets are lined withbarbers shaving the heads of pilgrims in the traditional way The posters on the walls announce the scheduled flights to and fromUman and the crowd is predominantly male
Sometimes there is violence Many locals are not happy with the pilgrims and the fact that many Hasidim have bought propertiesaround Pushkin Street introducing their very specific lifestyle Thereare complaints about the noise and the rubbish and the level ofsecurity 1048626983088983089983088 is remembered for several sometimes bloody fightsbetween locals and pilgrims Overall though visiting Uman for RoshHashanah can turn into the experience of a lifetime even for people with only a faint interest in Judaism The event is an immersion in abygone era right amid the post-Soviet reality of Ukraine
In 1048626983088983089983092 Rosh Hashanah begins at sunset on 1048626983092 September andends at nightfall of 1048626983094 September
Top After decades of
prosecution pilgrimage in Uman
is again safe and many children
mingle in the crowd
Bottom A Jewish boy tries his
brand new plastic gun bought
as a New Years present froma makeshift openair market in
Uman
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82
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150 984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143Stara Zagora50 Han Asparuh St Zagorka lakephone 042 985 555 042 985 555
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983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150983123983156983137983154983137 983130983137983143983151983154983137
Липи прави улици и дружелюбна
атмосфера в един от най-интересните градове на България
текст Димитър Ивановфотография Антони Георгиев
by Dimitar Ivanovphotography by Anthony Georgieff
Lindens straight streets and
fiendly atmosphere in one o themost interesting cities o Bulgaria
984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143984097984130984112984128984112 984087984112984115984126984128984112
Когато се чудите накъде да тръгнете в първите топлидни на есента Стара Загора е едно от най-добрите ре-шения Отдалечен на 10486263983088 км по магистрала Тракияградът е изключително близо за онези които живеят вСофия и предлага много повече спокойствие и зелени-на от столицата дружелюбна атмосфера приятни заве-дения и исторически и природни забележителностикоито да запълнят кратката ви ваканция
Стара Загора е един от най-старите градове в ЕвропаПървите хора се заселили тук около VII-VI хилядоле-тие пр Хр Около IV впрХр на мястото на съвремен-на Стара Загора се появява град на траките известен с
When you are wondering where to go for the first warm days of the autumn Stara Zagora is one of the bestsolutions About 10486263983088 km on the Trakiya Motorway thecity is close enough for those living in Sofia and offersmore serenity and greenery than the capital The city hasalso nice cafeacutes and restaurants and enough historical andnature sites to fill a short holiday
Stara Zagora is one of the oldest cities in EuropeThe fist people settled in the area around the 983095-983094thmillennia BC Around the 983092th Century BC on the placeof modern Stara Zagora appeared a settlement of theThracians which was called Beroe It was conquered by
phone 042 985 555 042 985 555reservationshotelstarazagoraeu
wwwhotelstarazagoraeu
The fi ve-star Park Hotel Stara Zagora is situated on the bank of the romantic Zagorka Lake in Stara Zagora
Hotel with 31 luxurious rooms two luxurious apartments and one VIP apartment
State-of-the-art SPA centre with swimming pool jacuzzi fitness hall steam bath sauna
Turkish bath and massage room
Six conference rooms with capacity between seven and 250 people equipped with multimedia
and other presentational technique and tools Orfeida Restaurant with amazing interior and a capacity for up to 150 people plus a summer and a winter garden
Park for biking fishing boating jogging and other sports and activities
All dreams lead toPark Hotel Stara Zagora
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
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where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
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42 43
Major river breaks outin Stara Planina heading
towards Black Seaby Minka Vazkresenska photography by Anthony Georgieff
How to define the source of a river is often a tough question toanswer Is it where water springs from the ground for the first timeor is it the place where two or more streams merge into a larger flowEven the source of the Danube Europes largest river is contentiousat least three springs claim to be the beginnings of the mighty river
The Kamchiya River is no exception Theoretically it is only983092983094 kilometres long and flows through northeastern Bulgaria before joining the Black Sea at a particularly beautiful and terrifyinglymosquito-infested forest With its major tributary the Golyama orGrand Kamchiya the river is 1048626983092983092 kilometres long making it the983096th longest river in Bulgaria The official source of the GolyamaKamchiya ndash and of the Kamchiya ndash is in the Lisa Planina at analtitude of about 983095983089983088 metres above sea level
But there is a spot high up in the Stara Planina on the border ofits central and eastern parts which has gained popularity as the truesource of the Kamchiya It is where the second major tributaryof the river confusingly called the Luda or Crazy Kamchiya springsup as a tiny stream runs eastwards for 1048626983088983088 kilometres and joins theGolyama Kamchiya The Luda Kamchiya is the 983089983088th longest river inBulgaria
The popularity of the Luda Kamchiyas spring as the genuinebeginning of the Kamchiya River (are you already confused)
is probably due to its location It is in a pleasant and historicallysignificant spot the Vratnik Pass connecting Veliko Tarnovo andElena to the north with Sliven south of the Stara Planina
44 45
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44 45
Situated at an altitude of 983089983088983097983095 metres above sea level and being 983089983088kilometres long the Vratnik Pass used to be a main route through themountain The Romans built a road along it and in the Middle Agesa strong fort guarded it a frequent site of battles between Bulgariansand Byzantines The importance of the pass was mirrored in its nameZhelezni Vrata and Demir Kapiya mean Iron Gates in Bulgarian andTurkish resepctively The modern-day name of the pass Vratnik wasadopted in 9830899830979830921048626 and just means Gate
Today the pass is almost deserted as most drivers prefer to avoid thenarrow potholed road which zigzags through a thick forest Even insummer when you stop at the highest part of the pass to look for theKamchiyas source you will most probably find the place empty
Actually empty means empty of tourists The forest around thespring is the temporary home of of some Gypsies families dealing with lumberjacking and mushroom-pickingTheir ragged tents madeof old blankets and sheets of nylon are all over the place as are theheaps of household garbage
The scenery becomes almost surreal when mist descends drenchingthe forest in white and leaving only the dark trunks of the closesttrees visible
The Luda Kamchiyas spring is east of the road in a depressionhidden by tall trees Spectacular it is not as it is fed into a waterfountain The water fountain inscription however is grandiose Tothose fallen for freedom Glorify their sacred feat you unendinglyflowing Kamchiya
There is some justification for this Only 1048626 kilometres east of thespring is Aglikina Polyana or Aglikas Meadow where the Bulgarianhayduti or 983089983097th Century rebels used to meet They lived in themountains as far away from the Ottoman authorities as possibleexcept for when they attacked and robbed Ottoman convoys at the pass
Aglikina Polyana is heavily represented in Bulgarian heroic folklorehas a protected area status and hosts a regular folklore meeting
You can visit Aglikina Polyana from here but in any case be sure to
kneel at the water fountain which is the source of the Luda Kamchiyaand take a drink It is not that often that you can drink the cool clear waters of a river at its source
Top Semi-wild horses roam freely
around the Vratnik Pass
Bottom The beginnings of a 200-
kilometre Luda Kamchiya river
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46 47
Remote village pro983158idesunspoilt old-time atmosphere great ood by Violeta Rozova photography by Anthony Georgieff
Rural tourism in Bulgaria was barely known 1048626983088 years ago butin the early 1048626983088983088983088s it experienced an EU-funded boom But in thelate 1048626983088983088983088s the still ongoing economic crisis hit and now manyguesthouses are struggling to survive with the decreased numberof visitors In the western fringes of the Rhodope however is atraditional village which is still one of the best places for ruraltourism in Bulgaria
Leshten close to Gotse Delchev actually invented rural tourismin Bulgaria Since the mid-983089983097983097983088s it has been the first choice for anescape from the big city for all those interested in clean air delicioushealthy food and genuinely and intelligently preserved architecture
Truth to tell Leshten is hardly a village nowadays Only 983089983088 peoplelive there and most of them are septuagenarian In the 983089983097th and thefirst half of the 1048626983088th centuries however Leshten was a bustling placehome to more than 983093983088983088 people Unlike the inhabitants of nearbyKovachevitsa who built three- and four-storey mini fortresses to
protect their riches the people of Leshten were poor They had lessto lose and so they built houses of only two floors The ground level was for the livestock and the one above for the families
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4 49
Top A statue of two icecream
cones
Bottom The Buzludzha complex is
famous for its ghastly atmosphere
32
4
Kovachevitsa and Leshten both began to lose inhabitants at a greatrate after the Communist coup of 983089983097983092983092 when industrialisation andforced collectivisation striped the villagers of their livelihood andforced them to seek jobs in cities Kovachevitsa as a much grander village attracted the attention of Bulgarian film-makers in the 983089983097983095983088sand experienced a wave of new settlers mostly Sofia intellectuals who bought holiday homes there
Leshten was rediscovered much laterIn the mid-983089983097983097983088s a couple from Sofia found themselves in the
village with its ghostly and abandoned old houses They fell in love with Leshten as it had an unexpected advantage over crowd-pulling
Kovachevitsa Kovachevitsa is deep in the mountains and does nothave much of a vistaLeshten however has a marvellous view over the valley of the
Mesta River with the blue slopes of the Pirin defining the horizon983121uite unusually for the mid-983089983097983097983088s when everyone was either
leaving Bulgaria or flocking to Sofia where job prospects were betterthe couple moved to Leshten They bought some of the houses andturned them into holiday lets while preserving as much as possiblethe traditional architecture and opened one of the best restaurants
in Bulgaria This was in the long-disused local school next to thebeautiful and tiny St Paraskeva Church which dates from 9830899830963983094 and iscovered inside with primitive but captivating murals
1
1 The key to your room Each
detail in the 200-year old Leshten
houses has been preserved
2 3 The St Paraskeva Church
was built in 1837 and has been
listed as a local monument of
culture
4 Having breakfast while enjoying
the view to the Mesta Valley and
the Pirin is one of Leshtens many
pleasures
50 51
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The food in the tavern was locally sourced long before this became
fashionable Almost everything on the menu comes from the areafrom the wild berry juice and the thick sheeprsquos yoghurt to thetraditional egg noodles and the meatballs which are prepared not ofmince but of finely chopped meat
The restored traditional houses are on a par with the foods qualityIntelligently preserved yet having mod cons they smell of ageing wood geraniums and of woollen rugs warmed by the sun The wallsare whitewashed white linen curtains with embroidery shade the windows and the slightly crooked beams of the floor squeak quietly
under your feetRecently however more people decided to profit on Leshten
More houses were turned into hotels and as the competition grewone night the old school caught fire and burned to the ground Thetavern was re-established in a newer building with a beautiful viewof the Mesta Valley The food is still gorgeous the best the Rhodopeand the people living in these beautiful mountains can give you
This series of articles is supported by theAmerica for Bulgaria Foundation The
statements and opinions expressed herein
are those of the authors and do not necessarily
reflect the opinion of the America for Bulgaria
Foundation and its partners
1 Stone was used extensively in
building the houses of Leshten
and even the roofs are f rom rock
The technique was popular in
Bulgaria until the beginning of
the 20th Century but was later
abandoned It has been enjoying
a revival in recent years as surge
of interest in eco tourism has
brought it back to fashion
2 Leshten is a good basefor exploring of the Western
Rhodope with traditional villages
like Kovachevitsa and Dolen and
pristine wild nature all around
3 Fresco from St Paraskeva
Church with a didactic scene
advertising the advantages of
pious life
3
1
2
52 53
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Case study of senior Communist offi cialElena Lagadinova reveals unexpectedaspects of superpower confrontation
by Kristen Ghodsee all photographs courtesy of the author
One of the great ironies of the Cold War is that the twosuperpowers often championed issues that they cared little aboutin practice The East bloc defended the social rights of the worldrsquos workers while treating their own citizens like indentured servantsThe United States campaigned for political freedoms abroad whilebrutally oppressing or marginalising their own African-Americanand Native American populations at home Any rhetoric thatcould be deployed against the enemy became a weapon in the widerideological battle
Today historians and social scientists are studying the internationallegacies of these Cold War rivalries over social and politicalrights Whether it is labor conventions at the International LaborOrganisation political self-determination for previously colonisedcountries or the end to state-sanctioned racial discrimination in theUnited States or in apartheid-era South Africa the general scholarlyconsensus is that ordinary people ndash whether in the capitalist
Communist or developing worlds ndash benefitted from superpowercompetition An unintended consequence of American and Sovietgrandstanding was often real social progress
1
2
2
4
54
6 7
1 Elena The Amazon
Lagadinova in 1945
2 With Valentina Tereshkova
3 Delivering a speech in 1970
4 With the US activist Angela
Davis in 1972
5 Hosting a school for African
women leaders in Sofia in 1982
6 Lagadinova (left) with an
young Irina Bokova (right) at
the Third UN Conference on
Women in Nairobi in 1985
7 In Razlog with Kristen
Ghodsee in 2013
3
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Tousands o Hassidim gatherin Ukrainian city to celebrate
Jewish New Year by Dimana Trankova photography by Anthony Georgieff
60 61
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Dusty and drab devoid of any charm unless you count the 983089983096thCentury Sofyivka Park and the Georgian cheese pastries at the busstation the Ukrainian city of Uman would be a strong contender forthe most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe
But it is not the most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe ndash atleast not for a couple of days each year when it gets filled with joyfulcrowds of Ultra religious Jews flown in from as far as Canada BritainIsrael and Australia to celebrate the Jewish New Year usually inSeptember They all converge at Pushkin Street take out their heavyluggage and drag it to their rented rooms in small houses and tallSocialist apartment blocks Music is booming the smell of cookedfood comes from the tents of the openair eateries Happy people inthe streets greet each other smiling from ear to ear when they meetand embrace some old friend
Uman a city of roughly 983097983088983088983088983088 residents in western Ukraine is thefocus of pilgrimage for Hasidic Jews who come here to celebrate atthe tomb of one of their greatest spiritual leaders
Rebbe Nachman (9830899830959830951048626-983089983096983089983088) of Breslov was the great-grandson ofBaal Shem Tov the founder of Hasidism a conservative movementthat spread among the Ashkenazi Jews in Eastern Europe He showedthe first signs of having a special connection with the divine as earlyas 983089983095 and spent the next decades of his life moving around the areaof what is now western Ukraine and eastern Poland attractingfollowers Rebbe Nachmans travels even brought him to Palestine where he met and talked with prominent Jewish sages and scholars
In 9830899830969830881048626 he settled in Bratslav (as Breslov is more commonlyknown) and announced the creation of a new movement ofHasidism the Breslov Hasidism
When pilgrimage to Rebbe
Nachmans grave resumed in
the early 1990s the locals ofUman were amazed by the Rosh
Hashanah antics of visiting Jews
62 63
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Rebbe Nachman was incredibly popular but not everyone
liked him because of some of his more radical ideas one of whichencouraged people to feel free to find spiritual leaders for themselvesand to break with the tradition of the hereditary Hasidic dynastiesRebbe Nachman also encouraged the individual search for the divineHis teachings spread during tumultuous times The beginning of the983089983097th Century saw the spread of democratic ideas across Europe andfor the first time in centuries Jews enjoyed ndash at least theoretically ndashequal rights Many chose fuller integration into the modernEuropean society but for more conservative Jews these changesthreatened the foundation of their communities The teachingsof Rebbe Nachman were a sort of reaction to this trend blendingtradition with more individual freedom
Whether Rebbe Nachman thought of himself as a Messiah is stilla matter of dispute Some phrases from his teachings would makegreat Facebook quotes in todays era of soul-searching and positivethinking such as If you believe that you can damage then believethat you can fixrdquo or You are never given an obstacle you cannotovercome
In Breslov Rebbe Nachman saw his movement flourish andgrow with great crowds of followers assembling for feasts like RoshHashanah Chanukah or Shavuot when they eagerly listened to histeachings In 983089983096983089983088 however he had to move
Consumption had been devouring the still young Rebbe Nachmanfor some time and then his house was destroyed by fire He movedto nearby Uman a town of great significance for the local Jewishcommunity In 983089983095983094983096 about 1048626983088983088983088983088 Jews from Uman along withmany Poles and Uniate Ukrainians were killed by the UkrainianHaidamak rebels who had risen against the then Polish-LithuanianCommonwealth
1 Selling Rebbe Nachman-
themed techno music on Pushkin
Street
2 For many Breslov Hasidim the
pilgrimage is also an opportunity
to meet old friends and make
new ones
3 Rebbe Nachman is the
descendant of Baal Shem Tov the
founder of Hasidism a branch
of Orthodox Judaism wheremysticism is at the foundation of
spirituality
3
1
2
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Over the following two decades the Rosh Hashanah gatheringin Uman became ever stronger On average about 983089983088983088983088983088-983089983093983088983088983088Hasidim come to celebrate each year The atmosphere is festive in thestreets and tense around the grave of Rebbe Nachman and peopleare generally friendly even when they notice the odd tourist in thecrowd Many of the pilgrims get tipsy and dance to rave and rock
music booming from stalls gardens and balconies Children runto and fro carrying presents bought from the ramshackle openairmarket
There are signs however that these people are not the average partygoers The song lyrics are devoted to Rebbe Nachman Umanand Rosh Hashanah Shofars howl and the streets are lined withbarbers shaving the heads of pilgrims in the traditional way The posters on the walls announce the scheduled flights to and fromUman and the crowd is predominantly male
Sometimes there is violence Many locals are not happy with the pilgrims and the fact that many Hasidim have bought propertiesaround Pushkin Street introducing their very specific lifestyle Thereare complaints about the noise and the rubbish and the level ofsecurity 1048626983088983089983088 is remembered for several sometimes bloody fightsbetween locals and pilgrims Overall though visiting Uman for RoshHashanah can turn into the experience of a lifetime even for people with only a faint interest in Judaism The event is an immersion in abygone era right amid the post-Soviet reality of Ukraine
In 1048626983088983089983092 Rosh Hashanah begins at sunset on 1048626983092 September andends at nightfall of 1048626983094 September
Top After decades of
prosecution pilgrimage in Uman
is again safe and many children
mingle in the crowd
Bottom A Jewish boy tries his
brand new plastic gun bought
as a New Years present froma makeshift openair market in
Uman
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82
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150 984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143Stara Zagora50 Han Asparuh St Zagorka lakephone 042 985 555 042 985 555
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983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150983123983156983137983154983137 983130983137983143983151983154983137
Липи прави улици и дружелюбна
атмосфера в един от най-интересните градове на България
текст Димитър Ивановфотография Антони Георгиев
by Dimitar Ivanovphotography by Anthony Georgieff
Lindens straight streets and
fiendly atmosphere in one o themost interesting cities o Bulgaria
984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143984097984130984112984128984112 984087984112984115984126984128984112
Когато се чудите накъде да тръгнете в първите топлидни на есента Стара Загора е едно от най-добрите ре-шения Отдалечен на 10486263983088 км по магистрала Тракияградът е изключително близо за онези които живеят вСофия и предлага много повече спокойствие и зелени-на от столицата дружелюбна атмосфера приятни заве-дения и исторически и природни забележителностикоито да запълнят кратката ви ваканция
Стара Загора е един от най-старите градове в ЕвропаПървите хора се заселили тук около VII-VI хилядоле-тие пр Хр Около IV впрХр на мястото на съвремен-на Стара Загора се появява град на траките известен с
When you are wondering where to go for the first warm days of the autumn Stara Zagora is one of the bestsolutions About 10486263983088 km on the Trakiya Motorway thecity is close enough for those living in Sofia and offersmore serenity and greenery than the capital The city hasalso nice cafeacutes and restaurants and enough historical andnature sites to fill a short holiday
Stara Zagora is one of the oldest cities in EuropeThe fist people settled in the area around the 983095-983094thmillennia BC Around the 983092th Century BC on the placeof modern Stara Zagora appeared a settlement of theThracians which was called Beroe It was conquered by
phone 042 985 555 042 985 555reservationshotelstarazagoraeu
wwwhotelstarazagoraeu
The fi ve-star Park Hotel Stara Zagora is situated on the bank of the romantic Zagorka Lake in Stara Zagora
Hotel with 31 luxurious rooms two luxurious apartments and one VIP apartment
State-of-the-art SPA centre with swimming pool jacuzzi fitness hall steam bath sauna
Turkish bath and massage room
Six conference rooms with capacity between seven and 250 people equipped with multimedia
and other presentational technique and tools Orfeida Restaurant with amazing interior and a capacity for up to 150 people plus a summer and a winter garden
Park for biking fishing boating jogging and other sports and activities
All dreams lead toPark Hotel Stara Zagora
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
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where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
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44 45
Situated at an altitude of 983089983088983097983095 metres above sea level and being 983089983088kilometres long the Vratnik Pass used to be a main route through themountain The Romans built a road along it and in the Middle Agesa strong fort guarded it a frequent site of battles between Bulgariansand Byzantines The importance of the pass was mirrored in its nameZhelezni Vrata and Demir Kapiya mean Iron Gates in Bulgarian andTurkish resepctively The modern-day name of the pass Vratnik wasadopted in 9830899830979830921048626 and just means Gate
Today the pass is almost deserted as most drivers prefer to avoid thenarrow potholed road which zigzags through a thick forest Even insummer when you stop at the highest part of the pass to look for theKamchiyas source you will most probably find the place empty
Actually empty means empty of tourists The forest around thespring is the temporary home of of some Gypsies families dealing with lumberjacking and mushroom-pickingTheir ragged tents madeof old blankets and sheets of nylon are all over the place as are theheaps of household garbage
The scenery becomes almost surreal when mist descends drenchingthe forest in white and leaving only the dark trunks of the closesttrees visible
The Luda Kamchiyas spring is east of the road in a depressionhidden by tall trees Spectacular it is not as it is fed into a waterfountain The water fountain inscription however is grandiose Tothose fallen for freedom Glorify their sacred feat you unendinglyflowing Kamchiya
There is some justification for this Only 1048626 kilometres east of thespring is Aglikina Polyana or Aglikas Meadow where the Bulgarianhayduti or 983089983097th Century rebels used to meet They lived in themountains as far away from the Ottoman authorities as possibleexcept for when they attacked and robbed Ottoman convoys at the pass
Aglikina Polyana is heavily represented in Bulgarian heroic folklorehas a protected area status and hosts a regular folklore meeting
You can visit Aglikina Polyana from here but in any case be sure to
kneel at the water fountain which is the source of the Luda Kamchiyaand take a drink It is not that often that you can drink the cool clear waters of a river at its source
Top Semi-wild horses roam freely
around the Vratnik Pass
Bottom The beginnings of a 200-
kilometre Luda Kamchiya river
46 47
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46 47
Remote village pro983158idesunspoilt old-time atmosphere great ood by Violeta Rozova photography by Anthony Georgieff
Rural tourism in Bulgaria was barely known 1048626983088 years ago butin the early 1048626983088983088983088s it experienced an EU-funded boom But in thelate 1048626983088983088983088s the still ongoing economic crisis hit and now manyguesthouses are struggling to survive with the decreased numberof visitors In the western fringes of the Rhodope however is atraditional village which is still one of the best places for ruraltourism in Bulgaria
Leshten close to Gotse Delchev actually invented rural tourismin Bulgaria Since the mid-983089983097983097983088s it has been the first choice for anescape from the big city for all those interested in clean air delicioushealthy food and genuinely and intelligently preserved architecture
Truth to tell Leshten is hardly a village nowadays Only 983089983088 peoplelive there and most of them are septuagenarian In the 983089983097th and thefirst half of the 1048626983088th centuries however Leshten was a bustling placehome to more than 983093983088983088 people Unlike the inhabitants of nearbyKovachevitsa who built three- and four-storey mini fortresses to
protect their riches the people of Leshten were poor They had lessto lose and so they built houses of only two floors The ground level was for the livestock and the one above for the families
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4 49
Top A statue of two icecream
cones
Bottom The Buzludzha complex is
famous for its ghastly atmosphere
32
4
Kovachevitsa and Leshten both began to lose inhabitants at a greatrate after the Communist coup of 983089983097983092983092 when industrialisation andforced collectivisation striped the villagers of their livelihood andforced them to seek jobs in cities Kovachevitsa as a much grander village attracted the attention of Bulgarian film-makers in the 983089983097983095983088sand experienced a wave of new settlers mostly Sofia intellectuals who bought holiday homes there
Leshten was rediscovered much laterIn the mid-983089983097983097983088s a couple from Sofia found themselves in the
village with its ghostly and abandoned old houses They fell in love with Leshten as it had an unexpected advantage over crowd-pulling
Kovachevitsa Kovachevitsa is deep in the mountains and does nothave much of a vistaLeshten however has a marvellous view over the valley of the
Mesta River with the blue slopes of the Pirin defining the horizon983121uite unusually for the mid-983089983097983097983088s when everyone was either
leaving Bulgaria or flocking to Sofia where job prospects were betterthe couple moved to Leshten They bought some of the houses andturned them into holiday lets while preserving as much as possiblethe traditional architecture and opened one of the best restaurants
in Bulgaria This was in the long-disused local school next to thebeautiful and tiny St Paraskeva Church which dates from 9830899830963983094 and iscovered inside with primitive but captivating murals
1
1 The key to your room Each
detail in the 200-year old Leshten
houses has been preserved
2 3 The St Paraskeva Church
was built in 1837 and has been
listed as a local monument of
culture
4 Having breakfast while enjoying
the view to the Mesta Valley and
the Pirin is one of Leshtens many
pleasures
50 51
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The food in the tavern was locally sourced long before this became
fashionable Almost everything on the menu comes from the areafrom the wild berry juice and the thick sheeprsquos yoghurt to thetraditional egg noodles and the meatballs which are prepared not ofmince but of finely chopped meat
The restored traditional houses are on a par with the foods qualityIntelligently preserved yet having mod cons they smell of ageing wood geraniums and of woollen rugs warmed by the sun The wallsare whitewashed white linen curtains with embroidery shade the windows and the slightly crooked beams of the floor squeak quietly
under your feetRecently however more people decided to profit on Leshten
More houses were turned into hotels and as the competition grewone night the old school caught fire and burned to the ground Thetavern was re-established in a newer building with a beautiful viewof the Mesta Valley The food is still gorgeous the best the Rhodopeand the people living in these beautiful mountains can give you
This series of articles is supported by theAmerica for Bulgaria Foundation The
statements and opinions expressed herein
are those of the authors and do not necessarily
reflect the opinion of the America for Bulgaria
Foundation and its partners
1 Stone was used extensively in
building the houses of Leshten
and even the roofs are f rom rock
The technique was popular in
Bulgaria until the beginning of
the 20th Century but was later
abandoned It has been enjoying
a revival in recent years as surge
of interest in eco tourism has
brought it back to fashion
2 Leshten is a good basefor exploring of the Western
Rhodope with traditional villages
like Kovachevitsa and Dolen and
pristine wild nature all around
3 Fresco from St Paraskeva
Church with a didactic scene
advertising the advantages of
pious life
3
1
2
52 53
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Case study of senior Communist offi cialElena Lagadinova reveals unexpectedaspects of superpower confrontation
by Kristen Ghodsee all photographs courtesy of the author
One of the great ironies of the Cold War is that the twosuperpowers often championed issues that they cared little aboutin practice The East bloc defended the social rights of the worldrsquos workers while treating their own citizens like indentured servantsThe United States campaigned for political freedoms abroad whilebrutally oppressing or marginalising their own African-Americanand Native American populations at home Any rhetoric thatcould be deployed against the enemy became a weapon in the widerideological battle
Today historians and social scientists are studying the internationallegacies of these Cold War rivalries over social and politicalrights Whether it is labor conventions at the International LaborOrganisation political self-determination for previously colonisedcountries or the end to state-sanctioned racial discrimination in theUnited States or in apartheid-era South Africa the general scholarlyconsensus is that ordinary people ndash whether in the capitalist
Communist or developing worlds ndash benefitted from superpowercompetition An unintended consequence of American and Sovietgrandstanding was often real social progress
1
2
2
4
54
6 7
1 Elena The Amazon
Lagadinova in 1945
2 With Valentina Tereshkova
3 Delivering a speech in 1970
4 With the US activist Angela
Davis in 1972
5 Hosting a school for African
women leaders in Sofia in 1982
6 Lagadinova (left) with an
young Irina Bokova (right) at
the Third UN Conference on
Women in Nairobi in 1985
7 In Razlog with Kristen
Ghodsee in 2013
3
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Tousands o Hassidim gatherin Ukrainian city to celebrate
Jewish New Year by Dimana Trankova photography by Anthony Georgieff
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Dusty and drab devoid of any charm unless you count the 983089983096thCentury Sofyivka Park and the Georgian cheese pastries at the busstation the Ukrainian city of Uman would be a strong contender forthe most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe
But it is not the most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe ndash atleast not for a couple of days each year when it gets filled with joyfulcrowds of Ultra religious Jews flown in from as far as Canada BritainIsrael and Australia to celebrate the Jewish New Year usually inSeptember They all converge at Pushkin Street take out their heavyluggage and drag it to their rented rooms in small houses and tallSocialist apartment blocks Music is booming the smell of cookedfood comes from the tents of the openair eateries Happy people inthe streets greet each other smiling from ear to ear when they meetand embrace some old friend
Uman a city of roughly 983097983088983088983088983088 residents in western Ukraine is thefocus of pilgrimage for Hasidic Jews who come here to celebrate atthe tomb of one of their greatest spiritual leaders
Rebbe Nachman (9830899830959830951048626-983089983096983089983088) of Breslov was the great-grandson ofBaal Shem Tov the founder of Hasidism a conservative movementthat spread among the Ashkenazi Jews in Eastern Europe He showedthe first signs of having a special connection with the divine as earlyas 983089983095 and spent the next decades of his life moving around the areaof what is now western Ukraine and eastern Poland attractingfollowers Rebbe Nachmans travels even brought him to Palestine where he met and talked with prominent Jewish sages and scholars
In 9830899830969830881048626 he settled in Bratslav (as Breslov is more commonlyknown) and announced the creation of a new movement ofHasidism the Breslov Hasidism
When pilgrimage to Rebbe
Nachmans grave resumed in
the early 1990s the locals ofUman were amazed by the Rosh
Hashanah antics of visiting Jews
62 63
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Rebbe Nachman was incredibly popular but not everyone
liked him because of some of his more radical ideas one of whichencouraged people to feel free to find spiritual leaders for themselvesand to break with the tradition of the hereditary Hasidic dynastiesRebbe Nachman also encouraged the individual search for the divineHis teachings spread during tumultuous times The beginning of the983089983097th Century saw the spread of democratic ideas across Europe andfor the first time in centuries Jews enjoyed ndash at least theoretically ndashequal rights Many chose fuller integration into the modernEuropean society but for more conservative Jews these changesthreatened the foundation of their communities The teachingsof Rebbe Nachman were a sort of reaction to this trend blendingtradition with more individual freedom
Whether Rebbe Nachman thought of himself as a Messiah is stilla matter of dispute Some phrases from his teachings would makegreat Facebook quotes in todays era of soul-searching and positivethinking such as If you believe that you can damage then believethat you can fixrdquo or You are never given an obstacle you cannotovercome
In Breslov Rebbe Nachman saw his movement flourish andgrow with great crowds of followers assembling for feasts like RoshHashanah Chanukah or Shavuot when they eagerly listened to histeachings In 983089983096983089983088 however he had to move
Consumption had been devouring the still young Rebbe Nachmanfor some time and then his house was destroyed by fire He movedto nearby Uman a town of great significance for the local Jewishcommunity In 983089983095983094983096 about 1048626983088983088983088983088 Jews from Uman along withmany Poles and Uniate Ukrainians were killed by the UkrainianHaidamak rebels who had risen against the then Polish-LithuanianCommonwealth
1 Selling Rebbe Nachman-
themed techno music on Pushkin
Street
2 For many Breslov Hasidim the
pilgrimage is also an opportunity
to meet old friends and make
new ones
3 Rebbe Nachman is the
descendant of Baal Shem Tov the
founder of Hasidism a branch
of Orthodox Judaism wheremysticism is at the foundation of
spirituality
3
1
2
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Over the following two decades the Rosh Hashanah gatheringin Uman became ever stronger On average about 983089983088983088983088983088-983089983093983088983088983088Hasidim come to celebrate each year The atmosphere is festive in thestreets and tense around the grave of Rebbe Nachman and peopleare generally friendly even when they notice the odd tourist in thecrowd Many of the pilgrims get tipsy and dance to rave and rock
music booming from stalls gardens and balconies Children runto and fro carrying presents bought from the ramshackle openairmarket
There are signs however that these people are not the average partygoers The song lyrics are devoted to Rebbe Nachman Umanand Rosh Hashanah Shofars howl and the streets are lined withbarbers shaving the heads of pilgrims in the traditional way The posters on the walls announce the scheduled flights to and fromUman and the crowd is predominantly male
Sometimes there is violence Many locals are not happy with the pilgrims and the fact that many Hasidim have bought propertiesaround Pushkin Street introducing their very specific lifestyle Thereare complaints about the noise and the rubbish and the level ofsecurity 1048626983088983089983088 is remembered for several sometimes bloody fightsbetween locals and pilgrims Overall though visiting Uman for RoshHashanah can turn into the experience of a lifetime even for people with only a faint interest in Judaism The event is an immersion in abygone era right amid the post-Soviet reality of Ukraine
In 1048626983088983089983092 Rosh Hashanah begins at sunset on 1048626983092 September andends at nightfall of 1048626983094 September
Top After decades of
prosecution pilgrimage in Uman
is again safe and many children
mingle in the crowd
Bottom A Jewish boy tries his
brand new plastic gun bought
as a New Years present froma makeshift openair market in
Uman
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82
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150 984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143Stara Zagora50 Han Asparuh St Zagorka lakephone 042 985 555 042 985 555
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150983123983156983137983154983137 983130983137983143983151983154983137
Липи прави улици и дружелюбна
атмосфера в един от най-интересните градове на България
текст Димитър Ивановфотография Антони Георгиев
by Dimitar Ivanovphotography by Anthony Georgieff
Lindens straight streets and
fiendly atmosphere in one o themost interesting cities o Bulgaria
984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143984097984130984112984128984112 984087984112984115984126984128984112
Когато се чудите накъде да тръгнете в първите топлидни на есента Стара Загора е едно от най-добрите ре-шения Отдалечен на 10486263983088 км по магистрала Тракияградът е изключително близо за онези които живеят вСофия и предлага много повече спокойствие и зелени-на от столицата дружелюбна атмосфера приятни заве-дения и исторически и природни забележителностикоито да запълнят кратката ви ваканция
Стара Загора е един от най-старите градове в ЕвропаПървите хора се заселили тук около VII-VI хилядоле-тие пр Хр Около IV впрХр на мястото на съвремен-на Стара Загора се появява град на траките известен с
When you are wondering where to go for the first warm days of the autumn Stara Zagora is one of the bestsolutions About 10486263983088 km on the Trakiya Motorway thecity is close enough for those living in Sofia and offersmore serenity and greenery than the capital The city hasalso nice cafeacutes and restaurants and enough historical andnature sites to fill a short holiday
Stara Zagora is one of the oldest cities in EuropeThe fist people settled in the area around the 983095-983094thmillennia BC Around the 983092th Century BC on the placeof modern Stara Zagora appeared a settlement of theThracians which was called Beroe It was conquered by
phone 042 985 555 042 985 555reservationshotelstarazagoraeu
wwwhotelstarazagoraeu
The fi ve-star Park Hotel Stara Zagora is situated on the bank of the romantic Zagorka Lake in Stara Zagora
Hotel with 31 luxurious rooms two luxurious apartments and one VIP apartment
State-of-the-art SPA centre with swimming pool jacuzzi fitness hall steam bath sauna
Turkish bath and massage room
Six conference rooms with capacity between seven and 250 people equipped with multimedia
and other presentational technique and tools Orfeida Restaurant with amazing interior and a capacity for up to 150 people plus a summer and a winter garden
Park for biking fishing boating jogging and other sports and activities
All dreams lead toPark Hotel Stara Zagora
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
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where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
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46 47
Remote village pro983158idesunspoilt old-time atmosphere great ood by Violeta Rozova photography by Anthony Georgieff
Rural tourism in Bulgaria was barely known 1048626983088 years ago butin the early 1048626983088983088983088s it experienced an EU-funded boom But in thelate 1048626983088983088983088s the still ongoing economic crisis hit and now manyguesthouses are struggling to survive with the decreased numberof visitors In the western fringes of the Rhodope however is atraditional village which is still one of the best places for ruraltourism in Bulgaria
Leshten close to Gotse Delchev actually invented rural tourismin Bulgaria Since the mid-983089983097983097983088s it has been the first choice for anescape from the big city for all those interested in clean air delicioushealthy food and genuinely and intelligently preserved architecture
Truth to tell Leshten is hardly a village nowadays Only 983089983088 peoplelive there and most of them are septuagenarian In the 983089983097th and thefirst half of the 1048626983088th centuries however Leshten was a bustling placehome to more than 983093983088983088 people Unlike the inhabitants of nearbyKovachevitsa who built three- and four-storey mini fortresses to
protect their riches the people of Leshten were poor They had lessto lose and so they built houses of only two floors The ground level was for the livestock and the one above for the families
48 49
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4 49
Top A statue of two icecream
cones
Bottom The Buzludzha complex is
famous for its ghastly atmosphere
32
4
Kovachevitsa and Leshten both began to lose inhabitants at a greatrate after the Communist coup of 983089983097983092983092 when industrialisation andforced collectivisation striped the villagers of their livelihood andforced them to seek jobs in cities Kovachevitsa as a much grander village attracted the attention of Bulgarian film-makers in the 983089983097983095983088sand experienced a wave of new settlers mostly Sofia intellectuals who bought holiday homes there
Leshten was rediscovered much laterIn the mid-983089983097983097983088s a couple from Sofia found themselves in the
village with its ghostly and abandoned old houses They fell in love with Leshten as it had an unexpected advantage over crowd-pulling
Kovachevitsa Kovachevitsa is deep in the mountains and does nothave much of a vistaLeshten however has a marvellous view over the valley of the
Mesta River with the blue slopes of the Pirin defining the horizon983121uite unusually for the mid-983089983097983097983088s when everyone was either
leaving Bulgaria or flocking to Sofia where job prospects were betterthe couple moved to Leshten They bought some of the houses andturned them into holiday lets while preserving as much as possiblethe traditional architecture and opened one of the best restaurants
in Bulgaria This was in the long-disused local school next to thebeautiful and tiny St Paraskeva Church which dates from 9830899830963983094 and iscovered inside with primitive but captivating murals
1
1 The key to your room Each
detail in the 200-year old Leshten
houses has been preserved
2 3 The St Paraskeva Church
was built in 1837 and has been
listed as a local monument of
culture
4 Having breakfast while enjoying
the view to the Mesta Valley and
the Pirin is one of Leshtens many
pleasures
50 51
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The food in the tavern was locally sourced long before this became
fashionable Almost everything on the menu comes from the areafrom the wild berry juice and the thick sheeprsquos yoghurt to thetraditional egg noodles and the meatballs which are prepared not ofmince but of finely chopped meat
The restored traditional houses are on a par with the foods qualityIntelligently preserved yet having mod cons they smell of ageing wood geraniums and of woollen rugs warmed by the sun The wallsare whitewashed white linen curtains with embroidery shade the windows and the slightly crooked beams of the floor squeak quietly
under your feetRecently however more people decided to profit on Leshten
More houses were turned into hotels and as the competition grewone night the old school caught fire and burned to the ground Thetavern was re-established in a newer building with a beautiful viewof the Mesta Valley The food is still gorgeous the best the Rhodopeand the people living in these beautiful mountains can give you
This series of articles is supported by theAmerica for Bulgaria Foundation The
statements and opinions expressed herein
are those of the authors and do not necessarily
reflect the opinion of the America for Bulgaria
Foundation and its partners
1 Stone was used extensively in
building the houses of Leshten
and even the roofs are f rom rock
The technique was popular in
Bulgaria until the beginning of
the 20th Century but was later
abandoned It has been enjoying
a revival in recent years as surge
of interest in eco tourism has
brought it back to fashion
2 Leshten is a good basefor exploring of the Western
Rhodope with traditional villages
like Kovachevitsa and Dolen and
pristine wild nature all around
3 Fresco from St Paraskeva
Church with a didactic scene
advertising the advantages of
pious life
3
1
2
52 53
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Case study of senior Communist offi cialElena Lagadinova reveals unexpectedaspects of superpower confrontation
by Kristen Ghodsee all photographs courtesy of the author
One of the great ironies of the Cold War is that the twosuperpowers often championed issues that they cared little aboutin practice The East bloc defended the social rights of the worldrsquos workers while treating their own citizens like indentured servantsThe United States campaigned for political freedoms abroad whilebrutally oppressing or marginalising their own African-Americanand Native American populations at home Any rhetoric thatcould be deployed against the enemy became a weapon in the widerideological battle
Today historians and social scientists are studying the internationallegacies of these Cold War rivalries over social and politicalrights Whether it is labor conventions at the International LaborOrganisation political self-determination for previously colonisedcountries or the end to state-sanctioned racial discrimination in theUnited States or in apartheid-era South Africa the general scholarlyconsensus is that ordinary people ndash whether in the capitalist
Communist or developing worlds ndash benefitted from superpowercompetition An unintended consequence of American and Sovietgrandstanding was often real social progress
1
2
2
4
54
6 7
1 Elena The Amazon
Lagadinova in 1945
2 With Valentina Tereshkova
3 Delivering a speech in 1970
4 With the US activist Angela
Davis in 1972
5 Hosting a school for African
women leaders in Sofia in 1982
6 Lagadinova (left) with an
young Irina Bokova (right) at
the Third UN Conference on
Women in Nairobi in 1985
7 In Razlog with Kristen
Ghodsee in 2013
3
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Tousands o Hassidim gatherin Ukrainian city to celebrate
Jewish New Year by Dimana Trankova photography by Anthony Georgieff
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Dusty and drab devoid of any charm unless you count the 983089983096thCentury Sofyivka Park and the Georgian cheese pastries at the busstation the Ukrainian city of Uman would be a strong contender forthe most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe
But it is not the most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe ndash atleast not for a couple of days each year when it gets filled with joyfulcrowds of Ultra religious Jews flown in from as far as Canada BritainIsrael and Australia to celebrate the Jewish New Year usually inSeptember They all converge at Pushkin Street take out their heavyluggage and drag it to their rented rooms in small houses and tallSocialist apartment blocks Music is booming the smell of cookedfood comes from the tents of the openair eateries Happy people inthe streets greet each other smiling from ear to ear when they meetand embrace some old friend
Uman a city of roughly 983097983088983088983088983088 residents in western Ukraine is thefocus of pilgrimage for Hasidic Jews who come here to celebrate atthe tomb of one of their greatest spiritual leaders
Rebbe Nachman (9830899830959830951048626-983089983096983089983088) of Breslov was the great-grandson ofBaal Shem Tov the founder of Hasidism a conservative movementthat spread among the Ashkenazi Jews in Eastern Europe He showedthe first signs of having a special connection with the divine as earlyas 983089983095 and spent the next decades of his life moving around the areaof what is now western Ukraine and eastern Poland attractingfollowers Rebbe Nachmans travels even brought him to Palestine where he met and talked with prominent Jewish sages and scholars
In 9830899830969830881048626 he settled in Bratslav (as Breslov is more commonlyknown) and announced the creation of a new movement ofHasidism the Breslov Hasidism
When pilgrimage to Rebbe
Nachmans grave resumed in
the early 1990s the locals ofUman were amazed by the Rosh
Hashanah antics of visiting Jews
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Rebbe Nachman was incredibly popular but not everyone
liked him because of some of his more radical ideas one of whichencouraged people to feel free to find spiritual leaders for themselvesand to break with the tradition of the hereditary Hasidic dynastiesRebbe Nachman also encouraged the individual search for the divineHis teachings spread during tumultuous times The beginning of the983089983097th Century saw the spread of democratic ideas across Europe andfor the first time in centuries Jews enjoyed ndash at least theoretically ndashequal rights Many chose fuller integration into the modernEuropean society but for more conservative Jews these changesthreatened the foundation of their communities The teachingsof Rebbe Nachman were a sort of reaction to this trend blendingtradition with more individual freedom
Whether Rebbe Nachman thought of himself as a Messiah is stilla matter of dispute Some phrases from his teachings would makegreat Facebook quotes in todays era of soul-searching and positivethinking such as If you believe that you can damage then believethat you can fixrdquo or You are never given an obstacle you cannotovercome
In Breslov Rebbe Nachman saw his movement flourish andgrow with great crowds of followers assembling for feasts like RoshHashanah Chanukah or Shavuot when they eagerly listened to histeachings In 983089983096983089983088 however he had to move
Consumption had been devouring the still young Rebbe Nachmanfor some time and then his house was destroyed by fire He movedto nearby Uman a town of great significance for the local Jewishcommunity In 983089983095983094983096 about 1048626983088983088983088983088 Jews from Uman along withmany Poles and Uniate Ukrainians were killed by the UkrainianHaidamak rebels who had risen against the then Polish-LithuanianCommonwealth
1 Selling Rebbe Nachman-
themed techno music on Pushkin
Street
2 For many Breslov Hasidim the
pilgrimage is also an opportunity
to meet old friends and make
new ones
3 Rebbe Nachman is the
descendant of Baal Shem Tov the
founder of Hasidism a branch
of Orthodox Judaism wheremysticism is at the foundation of
spirituality
3
1
2
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Over the following two decades the Rosh Hashanah gatheringin Uman became ever stronger On average about 983089983088983088983088983088-983089983093983088983088983088Hasidim come to celebrate each year The atmosphere is festive in thestreets and tense around the grave of Rebbe Nachman and peopleare generally friendly even when they notice the odd tourist in thecrowd Many of the pilgrims get tipsy and dance to rave and rock
music booming from stalls gardens and balconies Children runto and fro carrying presents bought from the ramshackle openairmarket
There are signs however that these people are not the average partygoers The song lyrics are devoted to Rebbe Nachman Umanand Rosh Hashanah Shofars howl and the streets are lined withbarbers shaving the heads of pilgrims in the traditional way The posters on the walls announce the scheduled flights to and fromUman and the crowd is predominantly male
Sometimes there is violence Many locals are not happy with the pilgrims and the fact that many Hasidim have bought propertiesaround Pushkin Street introducing their very specific lifestyle Thereare complaints about the noise and the rubbish and the level ofsecurity 1048626983088983089983088 is remembered for several sometimes bloody fightsbetween locals and pilgrims Overall though visiting Uman for RoshHashanah can turn into the experience of a lifetime even for people with only a faint interest in Judaism The event is an immersion in abygone era right amid the post-Soviet reality of Ukraine
In 1048626983088983089983092 Rosh Hashanah begins at sunset on 1048626983092 September andends at nightfall of 1048626983094 September
Top After decades of
prosecution pilgrimage in Uman
is again safe and many children
mingle in the crowd
Bottom A Jewish boy tries his
brand new plastic gun bought
as a New Years present froma makeshift openair market in
Uman
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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82
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150 984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143Stara Zagora50 Han Asparuh St Zagorka lakephone 042 985 555 042 985 555
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150983123983156983137983154983137 983130983137983143983151983154983137
Липи прави улици и дружелюбна
атмосфера в един от най-интересните градове на България
текст Димитър Ивановфотография Антони Георгиев
by Dimitar Ivanovphotography by Anthony Georgieff
Lindens straight streets and
fiendly atmosphere in one o themost interesting cities o Bulgaria
984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143984097984130984112984128984112 984087984112984115984126984128984112
Когато се чудите накъде да тръгнете в първите топлидни на есента Стара Загора е едно от най-добрите ре-шения Отдалечен на 10486263983088 км по магистрала Тракияградът е изключително близо за онези които живеят вСофия и предлага много повече спокойствие и зелени-на от столицата дружелюбна атмосфера приятни заве-дения и исторически и природни забележителностикоито да запълнят кратката ви ваканция
Стара Загора е един от най-старите градове в ЕвропаПървите хора се заселили тук около VII-VI хилядоле-тие пр Хр Около IV впрХр на мястото на съвремен-на Стара Загора се появява град на траките известен с
When you are wondering where to go for the first warm days of the autumn Stara Zagora is one of the bestsolutions About 10486263983088 km on the Trakiya Motorway thecity is close enough for those living in Sofia and offersmore serenity and greenery than the capital The city hasalso nice cafeacutes and restaurants and enough historical andnature sites to fill a short holiday
Stara Zagora is one of the oldest cities in EuropeThe fist people settled in the area around the 983095-983094thmillennia BC Around the 983092th Century BC on the placeof modern Stara Zagora appeared a settlement of theThracians which was called Beroe It was conquered by
phone 042 985 555 042 985 555reservationshotelstarazagoraeu
wwwhotelstarazagoraeu
The fi ve-star Park Hotel Stara Zagora is situated on the bank of the romantic Zagorka Lake in Stara Zagora
Hotel with 31 luxurious rooms two luxurious apartments and one VIP apartment
State-of-the-art SPA centre with swimming pool jacuzzi fitness hall steam bath sauna
Turkish bath and massage room
Six conference rooms with capacity between seven and 250 people equipped with multimedia
and other presentational technique and tools Orfeida Restaurant with amazing interior and a capacity for up to 150 people plus a summer and a winter garden
Park for biking fishing boating jogging and other sports and activities
All dreams lead toPark Hotel Stara Zagora
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4365
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
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4 49
Top A statue of two icecream
cones
Bottom The Buzludzha complex is
famous for its ghastly atmosphere
32
4
Kovachevitsa and Leshten both began to lose inhabitants at a greatrate after the Communist coup of 983089983097983092983092 when industrialisation andforced collectivisation striped the villagers of their livelihood andforced them to seek jobs in cities Kovachevitsa as a much grander village attracted the attention of Bulgarian film-makers in the 983089983097983095983088sand experienced a wave of new settlers mostly Sofia intellectuals who bought holiday homes there
Leshten was rediscovered much laterIn the mid-983089983097983097983088s a couple from Sofia found themselves in the
village with its ghostly and abandoned old houses They fell in love with Leshten as it had an unexpected advantage over crowd-pulling
Kovachevitsa Kovachevitsa is deep in the mountains and does nothave much of a vistaLeshten however has a marvellous view over the valley of the
Mesta River with the blue slopes of the Pirin defining the horizon983121uite unusually for the mid-983089983097983097983088s when everyone was either
leaving Bulgaria or flocking to Sofia where job prospects were betterthe couple moved to Leshten They bought some of the houses andturned them into holiday lets while preserving as much as possiblethe traditional architecture and opened one of the best restaurants
in Bulgaria This was in the long-disused local school next to thebeautiful and tiny St Paraskeva Church which dates from 9830899830963983094 and iscovered inside with primitive but captivating murals
1
1 The key to your room Each
detail in the 200-year old Leshten
houses has been preserved
2 3 The St Paraskeva Church
was built in 1837 and has been
listed as a local monument of
culture
4 Having breakfast while enjoying
the view to the Mesta Valley and
the Pirin is one of Leshtens many
pleasures
50 51
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The food in the tavern was locally sourced long before this became
fashionable Almost everything on the menu comes from the areafrom the wild berry juice and the thick sheeprsquos yoghurt to thetraditional egg noodles and the meatballs which are prepared not ofmince but of finely chopped meat
The restored traditional houses are on a par with the foods qualityIntelligently preserved yet having mod cons they smell of ageing wood geraniums and of woollen rugs warmed by the sun The wallsare whitewashed white linen curtains with embroidery shade the windows and the slightly crooked beams of the floor squeak quietly
under your feetRecently however more people decided to profit on Leshten
More houses were turned into hotels and as the competition grewone night the old school caught fire and burned to the ground Thetavern was re-established in a newer building with a beautiful viewof the Mesta Valley The food is still gorgeous the best the Rhodopeand the people living in these beautiful mountains can give you
This series of articles is supported by theAmerica for Bulgaria Foundation The
statements and opinions expressed herein
are those of the authors and do not necessarily
reflect the opinion of the America for Bulgaria
Foundation and its partners
1 Stone was used extensively in
building the houses of Leshten
and even the roofs are f rom rock
The technique was popular in
Bulgaria until the beginning of
the 20th Century but was later
abandoned It has been enjoying
a revival in recent years as surge
of interest in eco tourism has
brought it back to fashion
2 Leshten is a good basefor exploring of the Western
Rhodope with traditional villages
like Kovachevitsa and Dolen and
pristine wild nature all around
3 Fresco from St Paraskeva
Church with a didactic scene
advertising the advantages of
pious life
3
1
2
52 53
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Case study of senior Communist offi cialElena Lagadinova reveals unexpectedaspects of superpower confrontation
by Kristen Ghodsee all photographs courtesy of the author
One of the great ironies of the Cold War is that the twosuperpowers often championed issues that they cared little aboutin practice The East bloc defended the social rights of the worldrsquos workers while treating their own citizens like indentured servantsThe United States campaigned for political freedoms abroad whilebrutally oppressing or marginalising their own African-Americanand Native American populations at home Any rhetoric thatcould be deployed against the enemy became a weapon in the widerideological battle
Today historians and social scientists are studying the internationallegacies of these Cold War rivalries over social and politicalrights Whether it is labor conventions at the International LaborOrganisation political self-determination for previously colonisedcountries or the end to state-sanctioned racial discrimination in theUnited States or in apartheid-era South Africa the general scholarlyconsensus is that ordinary people ndash whether in the capitalist
Communist or developing worlds ndash benefitted from superpowercompetition An unintended consequence of American and Sovietgrandstanding was often real social progress
1
2
2
4
54
6 7
1 Elena The Amazon
Lagadinova in 1945
2 With Valentina Tereshkova
3 Delivering a speech in 1970
4 With the US activist Angela
Davis in 1972
5 Hosting a school for African
women leaders in Sofia in 1982
6 Lagadinova (left) with an
young Irina Bokova (right) at
the Third UN Conference on
Women in Nairobi in 1985
7 In Razlog with Kristen
Ghodsee in 2013
3
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Tousands o Hassidim gatherin Ukrainian city to celebrate
Jewish New Year by Dimana Trankova photography by Anthony Georgieff
60 61
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Dusty and drab devoid of any charm unless you count the 983089983096thCentury Sofyivka Park and the Georgian cheese pastries at the busstation the Ukrainian city of Uman would be a strong contender forthe most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe
But it is not the most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe ndash atleast not for a couple of days each year when it gets filled with joyfulcrowds of Ultra religious Jews flown in from as far as Canada BritainIsrael and Australia to celebrate the Jewish New Year usually inSeptember They all converge at Pushkin Street take out their heavyluggage and drag it to their rented rooms in small houses and tallSocialist apartment blocks Music is booming the smell of cookedfood comes from the tents of the openair eateries Happy people inthe streets greet each other smiling from ear to ear when they meetand embrace some old friend
Uman a city of roughly 983097983088983088983088983088 residents in western Ukraine is thefocus of pilgrimage for Hasidic Jews who come here to celebrate atthe tomb of one of their greatest spiritual leaders
Rebbe Nachman (9830899830959830951048626-983089983096983089983088) of Breslov was the great-grandson ofBaal Shem Tov the founder of Hasidism a conservative movementthat spread among the Ashkenazi Jews in Eastern Europe He showedthe first signs of having a special connection with the divine as earlyas 983089983095 and spent the next decades of his life moving around the areaof what is now western Ukraine and eastern Poland attractingfollowers Rebbe Nachmans travels even brought him to Palestine where he met and talked with prominent Jewish sages and scholars
In 9830899830969830881048626 he settled in Bratslav (as Breslov is more commonlyknown) and announced the creation of a new movement ofHasidism the Breslov Hasidism
When pilgrimage to Rebbe
Nachmans grave resumed in
the early 1990s the locals ofUman were amazed by the Rosh
Hashanah antics of visiting Jews
62 63
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Rebbe Nachman was incredibly popular but not everyone
liked him because of some of his more radical ideas one of whichencouraged people to feel free to find spiritual leaders for themselvesand to break with the tradition of the hereditary Hasidic dynastiesRebbe Nachman also encouraged the individual search for the divineHis teachings spread during tumultuous times The beginning of the983089983097th Century saw the spread of democratic ideas across Europe andfor the first time in centuries Jews enjoyed ndash at least theoretically ndashequal rights Many chose fuller integration into the modernEuropean society but for more conservative Jews these changesthreatened the foundation of their communities The teachingsof Rebbe Nachman were a sort of reaction to this trend blendingtradition with more individual freedom
Whether Rebbe Nachman thought of himself as a Messiah is stilla matter of dispute Some phrases from his teachings would makegreat Facebook quotes in todays era of soul-searching and positivethinking such as If you believe that you can damage then believethat you can fixrdquo or You are never given an obstacle you cannotovercome
In Breslov Rebbe Nachman saw his movement flourish andgrow with great crowds of followers assembling for feasts like RoshHashanah Chanukah or Shavuot when they eagerly listened to histeachings In 983089983096983089983088 however he had to move
Consumption had been devouring the still young Rebbe Nachmanfor some time and then his house was destroyed by fire He movedto nearby Uman a town of great significance for the local Jewishcommunity In 983089983095983094983096 about 1048626983088983088983088983088 Jews from Uman along withmany Poles and Uniate Ukrainians were killed by the UkrainianHaidamak rebels who had risen against the then Polish-LithuanianCommonwealth
1 Selling Rebbe Nachman-
themed techno music on Pushkin
Street
2 For many Breslov Hasidim the
pilgrimage is also an opportunity
to meet old friends and make
new ones
3 Rebbe Nachman is the
descendant of Baal Shem Tov the
founder of Hasidism a branch
of Orthodox Judaism wheremysticism is at the foundation of
spirituality
3
1
2
64 65
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Over the following two decades the Rosh Hashanah gatheringin Uman became ever stronger On average about 983089983088983088983088983088-983089983093983088983088983088Hasidim come to celebrate each year The atmosphere is festive in thestreets and tense around the grave of Rebbe Nachman and peopleare generally friendly even when they notice the odd tourist in thecrowd Many of the pilgrims get tipsy and dance to rave and rock
music booming from stalls gardens and balconies Children runto and fro carrying presents bought from the ramshackle openairmarket
There are signs however that these people are not the average partygoers The song lyrics are devoted to Rebbe Nachman Umanand Rosh Hashanah Shofars howl and the streets are lined withbarbers shaving the heads of pilgrims in the traditional way The posters on the walls announce the scheduled flights to and fromUman and the crowd is predominantly male
Sometimes there is violence Many locals are not happy with the pilgrims and the fact that many Hasidim have bought propertiesaround Pushkin Street introducing their very specific lifestyle Thereare complaints about the noise and the rubbish and the level ofsecurity 1048626983088983089983088 is remembered for several sometimes bloody fightsbetween locals and pilgrims Overall though visiting Uman for RoshHashanah can turn into the experience of a lifetime even for people with only a faint interest in Judaism The event is an immersion in abygone era right amid the post-Soviet reality of Ukraine
In 1048626983088983089983092 Rosh Hashanah begins at sunset on 1048626983092 September andends at nightfall of 1048626983094 September
Top After decades of
prosecution pilgrimage in Uman
is again safe and many children
mingle in the crowd
Bottom A Jewish boy tries his
brand new plastic gun bought
as a New Years present froma makeshift openair market in
Uman
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82
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150 984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143Stara Zagora50 Han Asparuh St Zagorka lakephone 042 985 555 042 985 555
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983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150983123983156983137983154983137 983130983137983143983151983154983137
Липи прави улици и дружелюбна
атмосфера в един от най-интересните градове на България
текст Димитър Ивановфотография Антони Георгиев
by Dimitar Ivanovphotography by Anthony Georgieff
Lindens straight streets and
fiendly atmosphere in one o themost interesting cities o Bulgaria
984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143984097984130984112984128984112 984087984112984115984126984128984112
Когато се чудите накъде да тръгнете в първите топлидни на есента Стара Загора е едно от най-добрите ре-шения Отдалечен на 10486263983088 км по магистрала Тракияградът е изключително близо за онези които живеят вСофия и предлага много повече спокойствие и зелени-на от столицата дружелюбна атмосфера приятни заве-дения и исторически и природни забележителностикоито да запълнят кратката ви ваканция
Стара Загора е един от най-старите градове в ЕвропаПървите хора се заселили тук около VII-VI хилядоле-тие пр Хр Около IV впрХр на мястото на съвремен-на Стара Загора се появява град на траките известен с
When you are wondering where to go for the first warm days of the autumn Stara Zagora is one of the bestsolutions About 10486263983088 km on the Trakiya Motorway thecity is close enough for those living in Sofia and offersmore serenity and greenery than the capital The city hasalso nice cafeacutes and restaurants and enough historical andnature sites to fill a short holiday
Stara Zagora is one of the oldest cities in EuropeThe fist people settled in the area around the 983095-983094thmillennia BC Around the 983092th Century BC on the placeof modern Stara Zagora appeared a settlement of theThracians which was called Beroe It was conquered by
phone 042 985 555 042 985 555reservationshotelstarazagoraeu
wwwhotelstarazagoraeu
The fi ve-star Park Hotel Stara Zagora is situated on the bank of the romantic Zagorka Lake in Stara Zagora
Hotel with 31 luxurious rooms two luxurious apartments and one VIP apartment
State-of-the-art SPA centre with swimming pool jacuzzi fitness hall steam bath sauna
Turkish bath and massage room
Six conference rooms with capacity between seven and 250 people equipped with multimedia
and other presentational technique and tools Orfeida Restaurant with amazing interior and a capacity for up to 150 people plus a summer and a winter garden
Park for biking fishing boating jogging and other sports and activities
All dreams lead toPark Hotel Stara Zagora
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6565
where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 2665
The food in the tavern was locally sourced long before this became
fashionable Almost everything on the menu comes from the areafrom the wild berry juice and the thick sheeprsquos yoghurt to thetraditional egg noodles and the meatballs which are prepared not ofmince but of finely chopped meat
The restored traditional houses are on a par with the foods qualityIntelligently preserved yet having mod cons they smell of ageing wood geraniums and of woollen rugs warmed by the sun The wallsare whitewashed white linen curtains with embroidery shade the windows and the slightly crooked beams of the floor squeak quietly
under your feetRecently however more people decided to profit on Leshten
More houses were turned into hotels and as the competition grewone night the old school caught fire and burned to the ground Thetavern was re-established in a newer building with a beautiful viewof the Mesta Valley The food is still gorgeous the best the Rhodopeand the people living in these beautiful mountains can give you
This series of articles is supported by theAmerica for Bulgaria Foundation The
statements and opinions expressed herein
are those of the authors and do not necessarily
reflect the opinion of the America for Bulgaria
Foundation and its partners
1 Stone was used extensively in
building the houses of Leshten
and even the roofs are f rom rock
The technique was popular in
Bulgaria until the beginning of
the 20th Century but was later
abandoned It has been enjoying
a revival in recent years as surge
of interest in eco tourism has
brought it back to fashion
2 Leshten is a good basefor exploring of the Western
Rhodope with traditional villages
like Kovachevitsa and Dolen and
pristine wild nature all around
3 Fresco from St Paraskeva
Church with a didactic scene
advertising the advantages of
pious life
3
1
2
52 53
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 2765
Case study of senior Communist offi cialElena Lagadinova reveals unexpectedaspects of superpower confrontation
by Kristen Ghodsee all photographs courtesy of the author
One of the great ironies of the Cold War is that the twosuperpowers often championed issues that they cared little aboutin practice The East bloc defended the social rights of the worldrsquos workers while treating their own citizens like indentured servantsThe United States campaigned for political freedoms abroad whilebrutally oppressing or marginalising their own African-Americanand Native American populations at home Any rhetoric thatcould be deployed against the enemy became a weapon in the widerideological battle
Today historians and social scientists are studying the internationallegacies of these Cold War rivalries over social and politicalrights Whether it is labor conventions at the International LaborOrganisation political self-determination for previously colonisedcountries or the end to state-sanctioned racial discrimination in theUnited States or in apartheid-era South Africa the general scholarlyconsensus is that ordinary people ndash whether in the capitalist
Communist or developing worlds ndash benefitted from superpowercompetition An unintended consequence of American and Sovietgrandstanding was often real social progress
1
2
2
4
54
6 7
1 Elena The Amazon
Lagadinova in 1945
2 With Valentina Tereshkova
3 Delivering a speech in 1970
4 With the US activist Angela
Davis in 1972
5 Hosting a school for African
women leaders in Sofia in 1982
6 Lagadinova (left) with an
young Irina Bokova (right) at
the Third UN Conference on
Women in Nairobi in 1985
7 In Razlog with Kristen
Ghodsee in 2013
3
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58 59
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Tousands o Hassidim gatherin Ukrainian city to celebrate
Jewish New Year by Dimana Trankova photography by Anthony Georgieff
60 61
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Dusty and drab devoid of any charm unless you count the 983089983096thCentury Sofyivka Park and the Georgian cheese pastries at the busstation the Ukrainian city of Uman would be a strong contender forthe most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe
But it is not the most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe ndash atleast not for a couple of days each year when it gets filled with joyfulcrowds of Ultra religious Jews flown in from as far as Canada BritainIsrael and Australia to celebrate the Jewish New Year usually inSeptember They all converge at Pushkin Street take out their heavyluggage and drag it to their rented rooms in small houses and tallSocialist apartment blocks Music is booming the smell of cookedfood comes from the tents of the openair eateries Happy people inthe streets greet each other smiling from ear to ear when they meetand embrace some old friend
Uman a city of roughly 983097983088983088983088983088 residents in western Ukraine is thefocus of pilgrimage for Hasidic Jews who come here to celebrate atthe tomb of one of their greatest spiritual leaders
Rebbe Nachman (9830899830959830951048626-983089983096983089983088) of Breslov was the great-grandson ofBaal Shem Tov the founder of Hasidism a conservative movementthat spread among the Ashkenazi Jews in Eastern Europe He showedthe first signs of having a special connection with the divine as earlyas 983089983095 and spent the next decades of his life moving around the areaof what is now western Ukraine and eastern Poland attractingfollowers Rebbe Nachmans travels even brought him to Palestine where he met and talked with prominent Jewish sages and scholars
In 9830899830969830881048626 he settled in Bratslav (as Breslov is more commonlyknown) and announced the creation of a new movement ofHasidism the Breslov Hasidism
When pilgrimage to Rebbe
Nachmans grave resumed in
the early 1990s the locals ofUman were amazed by the Rosh
Hashanah antics of visiting Jews
62 63
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httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3265
Rebbe Nachman was incredibly popular but not everyone
liked him because of some of his more radical ideas one of whichencouraged people to feel free to find spiritual leaders for themselvesand to break with the tradition of the hereditary Hasidic dynastiesRebbe Nachman also encouraged the individual search for the divineHis teachings spread during tumultuous times The beginning of the983089983097th Century saw the spread of democratic ideas across Europe andfor the first time in centuries Jews enjoyed ndash at least theoretically ndashequal rights Many chose fuller integration into the modernEuropean society but for more conservative Jews these changesthreatened the foundation of their communities The teachingsof Rebbe Nachman were a sort of reaction to this trend blendingtradition with more individual freedom
Whether Rebbe Nachman thought of himself as a Messiah is stilla matter of dispute Some phrases from his teachings would makegreat Facebook quotes in todays era of soul-searching and positivethinking such as If you believe that you can damage then believethat you can fixrdquo or You are never given an obstacle you cannotovercome
In Breslov Rebbe Nachman saw his movement flourish andgrow with great crowds of followers assembling for feasts like RoshHashanah Chanukah or Shavuot when they eagerly listened to histeachings In 983089983096983089983088 however he had to move
Consumption had been devouring the still young Rebbe Nachmanfor some time and then his house was destroyed by fire He movedto nearby Uman a town of great significance for the local Jewishcommunity In 983089983095983094983096 about 1048626983088983088983088983088 Jews from Uman along withmany Poles and Uniate Ukrainians were killed by the UkrainianHaidamak rebels who had risen against the then Polish-LithuanianCommonwealth
1 Selling Rebbe Nachman-
themed techno music on Pushkin
Street
2 For many Breslov Hasidim the
pilgrimage is also an opportunity
to meet old friends and make
new ones
3 Rebbe Nachman is the
descendant of Baal Shem Tov the
founder of Hasidism a branch
of Orthodox Judaism wheremysticism is at the foundation of
spirituality
3
1
2
64 65
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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68 69
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Over the following two decades the Rosh Hashanah gatheringin Uman became ever stronger On average about 983089983088983088983088983088-983089983093983088983088983088Hasidim come to celebrate each year The atmosphere is festive in thestreets and tense around the grave of Rebbe Nachman and peopleare generally friendly even when they notice the odd tourist in thecrowd Many of the pilgrims get tipsy and dance to rave and rock
music booming from stalls gardens and balconies Children runto and fro carrying presents bought from the ramshackle openairmarket
There are signs however that these people are not the average partygoers The song lyrics are devoted to Rebbe Nachman Umanand Rosh Hashanah Shofars howl and the streets are lined withbarbers shaving the heads of pilgrims in the traditional way The posters on the walls announce the scheduled flights to and fromUman and the crowd is predominantly male
Sometimes there is violence Many locals are not happy with the pilgrims and the fact that many Hasidim have bought propertiesaround Pushkin Street introducing their very specific lifestyle Thereare complaints about the noise and the rubbish and the level ofsecurity 1048626983088983089983088 is remembered for several sometimes bloody fightsbetween locals and pilgrims Overall though visiting Uman for RoshHashanah can turn into the experience of a lifetime even for people with only a faint interest in Judaism The event is an immersion in abygone era right amid the post-Soviet reality of Ukraine
In 1048626983088983089983092 Rosh Hashanah begins at sunset on 1048626983092 September andends at nightfall of 1048626983094 September
Top After decades of
prosecution pilgrimage in Uman
is again safe and many children
mingle in the crowd
Bottom A Jewish boy tries his
brand new plastic gun bought
as a New Years present froma makeshift openair market in
Uman
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82
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150 984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143Stara Zagora50 Han Asparuh St Zagorka lakephone 042 985 555 042 985 555
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983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150983123983156983137983154983137 983130983137983143983151983154983137
Липи прави улици и дружелюбна
атмосфера в един от най-интересните градове на България
текст Димитър Ивановфотография Антони Георгиев
by Dimitar Ivanovphotography by Anthony Georgieff
Lindens straight streets and
fiendly atmosphere in one o themost interesting cities o Bulgaria
984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143984097984130984112984128984112 984087984112984115984126984128984112
Когато се чудите накъде да тръгнете в първите топлидни на есента Стара Загора е едно от най-добрите ре-шения Отдалечен на 10486263983088 км по магистрала Тракияградът е изключително близо за онези които живеят вСофия и предлага много повече спокойствие и зелени-на от столицата дружелюбна атмосфера приятни заве-дения и исторически и природни забележителностикоито да запълнят кратката ви ваканция
Стара Загора е един от най-старите градове в ЕвропаПървите хора се заселили тук около VII-VI хилядоле-тие пр Хр Около IV впрХр на мястото на съвремен-на Стара Загора се появява град на траките известен с
When you are wondering where to go for the first warm days of the autumn Stara Zagora is one of the bestsolutions About 10486263983088 km on the Trakiya Motorway thecity is close enough for those living in Sofia and offersmore serenity and greenery than the capital The city hasalso nice cafeacutes and restaurants and enough historical andnature sites to fill a short holiday
Stara Zagora is one of the oldest cities in EuropeThe fist people settled in the area around the 983095-983094thmillennia BC Around the 983092th Century BC on the placeof modern Stara Zagora appeared a settlement of theThracians which was called Beroe It was conquered by
phone 042 985 555 042 985 555reservationshotelstarazagoraeu
wwwhotelstarazagoraeu
The fi ve-star Park Hotel Stara Zagora is situated on the bank of the romantic Zagorka Lake in Stara Zagora
Hotel with 31 luxurious rooms two luxurious apartments and one VIP apartment
State-of-the-art SPA centre with swimming pool jacuzzi fitness hall steam bath sauna
Turkish bath and massage room
Six conference rooms with capacity between seven and 250 people equipped with multimedia
and other presentational technique and tools Orfeida Restaurant with amazing interior and a capacity for up to 150 people plus a summer and a winter garden
Park for biking fishing boating jogging and other sports and activities
All dreams lead toPark Hotel Stara Zagora
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
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where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
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Case study of senior Communist offi cialElena Lagadinova reveals unexpectedaspects of superpower confrontation
by Kristen Ghodsee all photographs courtesy of the author
One of the great ironies of the Cold War is that the twosuperpowers often championed issues that they cared little aboutin practice The East bloc defended the social rights of the worldrsquos workers while treating their own citizens like indentured servantsThe United States campaigned for political freedoms abroad whilebrutally oppressing or marginalising their own African-Americanand Native American populations at home Any rhetoric thatcould be deployed against the enemy became a weapon in the widerideological battle
Today historians and social scientists are studying the internationallegacies of these Cold War rivalries over social and politicalrights Whether it is labor conventions at the International LaborOrganisation political self-determination for previously colonisedcountries or the end to state-sanctioned racial discrimination in theUnited States or in apartheid-era South Africa the general scholarlyconsensus is that ordinary people ndash whether in the capitalist
Communist or developing worlds ndash benefitted from superpowercompetition An unintended consequence of American and Sovietgrandstanding was often real social progress
1
2
2
4
54
6 7
1 Elena The Amazon
Lagadinova in 1945
2 With Valentina Tereshkova
3 Delivering a speech in 1970
4 With the US activist Angela
Davis in 1972
5 Hosting a school for African
women leaders in Sofia in 1982
6 Lagadinova (left) with an
young Irina Bokova (right) at
the Third UN Conference on
Women in Nairobi in 1985
7 In Razlog with Kristen
Ghodsee in 2013
3
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58 59
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Tousands o Hassidim gatherin Ukrainian city to celebrate
Jewish New Year by Dimana Trankova photography by Anthony Georgieff
60 61
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Dusty and drab devoid of any charm unless you count the 983089983096thCentury Sofyivka Park and the Georgian cheese pastries at the busstation the Ukrainian city of Uman would be a strong contender forthe most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe
But it is not the most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe ndash atleast not for a couple of days each year when it gets filled with joyfulcrowds of Ultra religious Jews flown in from as far as Canada BritainIsrael and Australia to celebrate the Jewish New Year usually inSeptember They all converge at Pushkin Street take out their heavyluggage and drag it to their rented rooms in small houses and tallSocialist apartment blocks Music is booming the smell of cookedfood comes from the tents of the openair eateries Happy people inthe streets greet each other smiling from ear to ear when they meetand embrace some old friend
Uman a city of roughly 983097983088983088983088983088 residents in western Ukraine is thefocus of pilgrimage for Hasidic Jews who come here to celebrate atthe tomb of one of their greatest spiritual leaders
Rebbe Nachman (9830899830959830951048626-983089983096983089983088) of Breslov was the great-grandson ofBaal Shem Tov the founder of Hasidism a conservative movementthat spread among the Ashkenazi Jews in Eastern Europe He showedthe first signs of having a special connection with the divine as earlyas 983089983095 and spent the next decades of his life moving around the areaof what is now western Ukraine and eastern Poland attractingfollowers Rebbe Nachmans travels even brought him to Palestine where he met and talked with prominent Jewish sages and scholars
In 9830899830969830881048626 he settled in Bratslav (as Breslov is more commonlyknown) and announced the creation of a new movement ofHasidism the Breslov Hasidism
When pilgrimage to Rebbe
Nachmans grave resumed in
the early 1990s the locals ofUman were amazed by the Rosh
Hashanah antics of visiting Jews
62 63
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httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3265
Rebbe Nachman was incredibly popular but not everyone
liked him because of some of his more radical ideas one of whichencouraged people to feel free to find spiritual leaders for themselvesand to break with the tradition of the hereditary Hasidic dynastiesRebbe Nachman also encouraged the individual search for the divineHis teachings spread during tumultuous times The beginning of the983089983097th Century saw the spread of democratic ideas across Europe andfor the first time in centuries Jews enjoyed ndash at least theoretically ndashequal rights Many chose fuller integration into the modernEuropean society but for more conservative Jews these changesthreatened the foundation of their communities The teachingsof Rebbe Nachman were a sort of reaction to this trend blendingtradition with more individual freedom
Whether Rebbe Nachman thought of himself as a Messiah is stilla matter of dispute Some phrases from his teachings would makegreat Facebook quotes in todays era of soul-searching and positivethinking such as If you believe that you can damage then believethat you can fixrdquo or You are never given an obstacle you cannotovercome
In Breslov Rebbe Nachman saw his movement flourish andgrow with great crowds of followers assembling for feasts like RoshHashanah Chanukah or Shavuot when they eagerly listened to histeachings In 983089983096983089983088 however he had to move
Consumption had been devouring the still young Rebbe Nachmanfor some time and then his house was destroyed by fire He movedto nearby Uman a town of great significance for the local Jewishcommunity In 983089983095983094983096 about 1048626983088983088983088983088 Jews from Uman along withmany Poles and Uniate Ukrainians were killed by the UkrainianHaidamak rebels who had risen against the then Polish-LithuanianCommonwealth
1 Selling Rebbe Nachman-
themed techno music on Pushkin
Street
2 For many Breslov Hasidim the
pilgrimage is also an opportunity
to meet old friends and make
new ones
3 Rebbe Nachman is the
descendant of Baal Shem Tov the
founder of Hasidism a branch
of Orthodox Judaism wheremysticism is at the foundation of
spirituality
3
1
2
64 65
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3365
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3465
68 69
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Over the following two decades the Rosh Hashanah gatheringin Uman became ever stronger On average about 983089983088983088983088983088-983089983093983088983088983088Hasidim come to celebrate each year The atmosphere is festive in thestreets and tense around the grave of Rebbe Nachman and peopleare generally friendly even when they notice the odd tourist in thecrowd Many of the pilgrims get tipsy and dance to rave and rock
music booming from stalls gardens and balconies Children runto and fro carrying presents bought from the ramshackle openairmarket
There are signs however that these people are not the average partygoers The song lyrics are devoted to Rebbe Nachman Umanand Rosh Hashanah Shofars howl and the streets are lined withbarbers shaving the heads of pilgrims in the traditional way The posters on the walls announce the scheduled flights to and fromUman and the crowd is predominantly male
Sometimes there is violence Many locals are not happy with the pilgrims and the fact that many Hasidim have bought propertiesaround Pushkin Street introducing their very specific lifestyle Thereare complaints about the noise and the rubbish and the level ofsecurity 1048626983088983089983088 is remembered for several sometimes bloody fightsbetween locals and pilgrims Overall though visiting Uman for RoshHashanah can turn into the experience of a lifetime even for people with only a faint interest in Judaism The event is an immersion in abygone era right amid the post-Soviet reality of Ukraine
In 1048626983088983089983092 Rosh Hashanah begins at sunset on 1048626983092 September andends at nightfall of 1048626983094 September
Top After decades of
prosecution pilgrimage in Uman
is again safe and many children
mingle in the crowd
Bottom A Jewish boy tries his
brand new plastic gun bought
as a New Years present froma makeshift openair market in
Uman
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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82
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150 984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143Stara Zagora50 Han Asparuh St Zagorka lakephone 042 985 555 042 985 555
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150983123983156983137983154983137 983130983137983143983151983154983137
Липи прави улици и дружелюбна
атмосфера в един от най-интересните градове на България
текст Димитър Ивановфотография Антони Георгиев
by Dimitar Ivanovphotography by Anthony Georgieff
Lindens straight streets and
fiendly atmosphere in one o themost interesting cities o Bulgaria
984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143984097984130984112984128984112 984087984112984115984126984128984112
Когато се чудите накъде да тръгнете в първите топлидни на есента Стара Загора е едно от най-добрите ре-шения Отдалечен на 10486263983088 км по магистрала Тракияградът е изключително близо за онези които живеят вСофия и предлага много повече спокойствие и зелени-на от столицата дружелюбна атмосфера приятни заве-дения и исторически и природни забележителностикоито да запълнят кратката ви ваканция
Стара Загора е един от най-старите градове в ЕвропаПървите хора се заселили тук около VII-VI хилядоле-тие пр Хр Около IV впрХр на мястото на съвремен-на Стара Загора се появява град на траките известен с
When you are wondering where to go for the first warm days of the autumn Stara Zagora is one of the bestsolutions About 10486263983088 km on the Trakiya Motorway thecity is close enough for those living in Sofia and offersmore serenity and greenery than the capital The city hasalso nice cafeacutes and restaurants and enough historical andnature sites to fill a short holiday
Stara Zagora is one of the oldest cities in EuropeThe fist people settled in the area around the 983095-983094thmillennia BC Around the 983092th Century BC on the placeof modern Stara Zagora appeared a settlement of theThracians which was called Beroe It was conquered by
phone 042 985 555 042 985 555reservationshotelstarazagoraeu
wwwhotelstarazagoraeu
The fi ve-star Park Hotel Stara Zagora is situated on the bank of the romantic Zagorka Lake in Stara Zagora
Hotel with 31 luxurious rooms two luxurious apartments and one VIP apartment
State-of-the-art SPA centre with swimming pool jacuzzi fitness hall steam bath sauna
Turkish bath and massage room
Six conference rooms with capacity between seven and 250 people equipped with multimedia
and other presentational technique and tools Orfeida Restaurant with amazing interior and a capacity for up to 150 people plus a summer and a winter garden
Park for biking fishing boating jogging and other sports and activities
All dreams lead toPark Hotel Stara Zagora
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6565
where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 2865
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 2965
58 59
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3065
Tousands o Hassidim gatherin Ukrainian city to celebrate
Jewish New Year by Dimana Trankova photography by Anthony Georgieff
60 61
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3165
Dusty and drab devoid of any charm unless you count the 983089983096thCentury Sofyivka Park and the Georgian cheese pastries at the busstation the Ukrainian city of Uman would be a strong contender forthe most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe
But it is not the most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe ndash atleast not for a couple of days each year when it gets filled with joyfulcrowds of Ultra religious Jews flown in from as far as Canada BritainIsrael and Australia to celebrate the Jewish New Year usually inSeptember They all converge at Pushkin Street take out their heavyluggage and drag it to their rented rooms in small houses and tallSocialist apartment blocks Music is booming the smell of cookedfood comes from the tents of the openair eateries Happy people inthe streets greet each other smiling from ear to ear when they meetand embrace some old friend
Uman a city of roughly 983097983088983088983088983088 residents in western Ukraine is thefocus of pilgrimage for Hasidic Jews who come here to celebrate atthe tomb of one of their greatest spiritual leaders
Rebbe Nachman (9830899830959830951048626-983089983096983089983088) of Breslov was the great-grandson ofBaal Shem Tov the founder of Hasidism a conservative movementthat spread among the Ashkenazi Jews in Eastern Europe He showedthe first signs of having a special connection with the divine as earlyas 983089983095 and spent the next decades of his life moving around the areaof what is now western Ukraine and eastern Poland attractingfollowers Rebbe Nachmans travels even brought him to Palestine where he met and talked with prominent Jewish sages and scholars
In 9830899830969830881048626 he settled in Bratslav (as Breslov is more commonlyknown) and announced the creation of a new movement ofHasidism the Breslov Hasidism
When pilgrimage to Rebbe
Nachmans grave resumed in
the early 1990s the locals ofUman were amazed by the Rosh
Hashanah antics of visiting Jews
62 63
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3265
Rebbe Nachman was incredibly popular but not everyone
liked him because of some of his more radical ideas one of whichencouraged people to feel free to find spiritual leaders for themselvesand to break with the tradition of the hereditary Hasidic dynastiesRebbe Nachman also encouraged the individual search for the divineHis teachings spread during tumultuous times The beginning of the983089983097th Century saw the spread of democratic ideas across Europe andfor the first time in centuries Jews enjoyed ndash at least theoretically ndashequal rights Many chose fuller integration into the modernEuropean society but for more conservative Jews these changesthreatened the foundation of their communities The teachingsof Rebbe Nachman were a sort of reaction to this trend blendingtradition with more individual freedom
Whether Rebbe Nachman thought of himself as a Messiah is stilla matter of dispute Some phrases from his teachings would makegreat Facebook quotes in todays era of soul-searching and positivethinking such as If you believe that you can damage then believethat you can fixrdquo or You are never given an obstacle you cannotovercome
In Breslov Rebbe Nachman saw his movement flourish andgrow with great crowds of followers assembling for feasts like RoshHashanah Chanukah or Shavuot when they eagerly listened to histeachings In 983089983096983089983088 however he had to move
Consumption had been devouring the still young Rebbe Nachmanfor some time and then his house was destroyed by fire He movedto nearby Uman a town of great significance for the local Jewishcommunity In 983089983095983094983096 about 1048626983088983088983088983088 Jews from Uman along withmany Poles and Uniate Ukrainians were killed by the UkrainianHaidamak rebels who had risen against the then Polish-LithuanianCommonwealth
1 Selling Rebbe Nachman-
themed techno music on Pushkin
Street
2 For many Breslov Hasidim the
pilgrimage is also an opportunity
to meet old friends and make
new ones
3 Rebbe Nachman is the
descendant of Baal Shem Tov the
founder of Hasidism a branch
of Orthodox Judaism wheremysticism is at the foundation of
spirituality
3
1
2
64 65
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3365
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3465
68 69
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3565
Over the following two decades the Rosh Hashanah gatheringin Uman became ever stronger On average about 983089983088983088983088983088-983089983093983088983088983088Hasidim come to celebrate each year The atmosphere is festive in thestreets and tense around the grave of Rebbe Nachman and peopleare generally friendly even when they notice the odd tourist in thecrowd Many of the pilgrims get tipsy and dance to rave and rock
music booming from stalls gardens and balconies Children runto and fro carrying presents bought from the ramshackle openairmarket
There are signs however that these people are not the average partygoers The song lyrics are devoted to Rebbe Nachman Umanand Rosh Hashanah Shofars howl and the streets are lined withbarbers shaving the heads of pilgrims in the traditional way The posters on the walls announce the scheduled flights to and fromUman and the crowd is predominantly male
Sometimes there is violence Many locals are not happy with the pilgrims and the fact that many Hasidim have bought propertiesaround Pushkin Street introducing their very specific lifestyle Thereare complaints about the noise and the rubbish and the level ofsecurity 1048626983088983089983088 is remembered for several sometimes bloody fightsbetween locals and pilgrims Overall though visiting Uman for RoshHashanah can turn into the experience of a lifetime even for people with only a faint interest in Judaism The event is an immersion in abygone era right amid the post-Soviet reality of Ukraine
In 1048626983088983089983092 Rosh Hashanah begins at sunset on 1048626983092 September andends at nightfall of 1048626983094 September
Top After decades of
prosecution pilgrimage in Uman
is again safe and many children
mingle in the crowd
Bottom A Jewish boy tries his
brand new plastic gun bought
as a New Years present froma makeshift openair market in
Uman
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3665
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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82
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150 984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143Stara Zagora50 Han Asparuh St Zagorka lakephone 042 985 555 042 985 555
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150983123983156983137983154983137 983130983137983143983151983154983137
Липи прави улици и дружелюбна
атмосфера в един от най-интересните градове на България
текст Димитър Ивановфотография Антони Георгиев
by Dimitar Ivanovphotography by Anthony Georgieff
Lindens straight streets and
fiendly atmosphere in one o themost interesting cities o Bulgaria
984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143984097984130984112984128984112 984087984112984115984126984128984112
Когато се чудите накъде да тръгнете в първите топлидни на есента Стара Загора е едно от най-добрите ре-шения Отдалечен на 10486263983088 км по магистрала Тракияградът е изключително близо за онези които живеят вСофия и предлага много повече спокойствие и зелени-на от столицата дружелюбна атмосфера приятни заве-дения и исторически и природни забележителностикоито да запълнят кратката ви ваканция
Стара Загора е един от най-старите градове в ЕвропаПървите хора се заселили тук около VII-VI хилядоле-тие пр Хр Около IV впрХр на мястото на съвремен-на Стара Загора се появява град на траките известен с
When you are wondering where to go for the first warm days of the autumn Stara Zagora is one of the bestsolutions About 10486263983088 km on the Trakiya Motorway thecity is close enough for those living in Sofia and offersmore serenity and greenery than the capital The city hasalso nice cafeacutes and restaurants and enough historical andnature sites to fill a short holiday
Stara Zagora is one of the oldest cities in EuropeThe fist people settled in the area around the 983095-983094thmillennia BC Around the 983092th Century BC on the placeof modern Stara Zagora appeared a settlement of theThracians which was called Beroe It was conquered by
phone 042 985 555 042 985 555reservationshotelstarazagoraeu
wwwhotelstarazagoraeu
The fi ve-star Park Hotel Stara Zagora is situated on the bank of the romantic Zagorka Lake in Stara Zagora
Hotel with 31 luxurious rooms two luxurious apartments and one VIP apartment
State-of-the-art SPA centre with swimming pool jacuzzi fitness hall steam bath sauna
Turkish bath and massage room
Six conference rooms with capacity between seven and 250 people equipped with multimedia
and other presentational technique and tools Orfeida Restaurant with amazing interior and a capacity for up to 150 people plus a summer and a winter garden
Park for biking fishing boating jogging and other sports and activities
All dreams lead toPark Hotel Stara Zagora
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4365
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4465
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6565
where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 2965
58 59
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3065
Tousands o Hassidim gatherin Ukrainian city to celebrate
Jewish New Year by Dimana Trankova photography by Anthony Georgieff
60 61
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3165
Dusty and drab devoid of any charm unless you count the 983089983096thCentury Sofyivka Park and the Georgian cheese pastries at the busstation the Ukrainian city of Uman would be a strong contender forthe most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe
But it is not the most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe ndash atleast not for a couple of days each year when it gets filled with joyfulcrowds of Ultra religious Jews flown in from as far as Canada BritainIsrael and Australia to celebrate the Jewish New Year usually inSeptember They all converge at Pushkin Street take out their heavyluggage and drag it to their rented rooms in small houses and tallSocialist apartment blocks Music is booming the smell of cookedfood comes from the tents of the openair eateries Happy people inthe streets greet each other smiling from ear to ear when they meetand embrace some old friend
Uman a city of roughly 983097983088983088983088983088 residents in western Ukraine is thefocus of pilgrimage for Hasidic Jews who come here to celebrate atthe tomb of one of their greatest spiritual leaders
Rebbe Nachman (9830899830959830951048626-983089983096983089983088) of Breslov was the great-grandson ofBaal Shem Tov the founder of Hasidism a conservative movementthat spread among the Ashkenazi Jews in Eastern Europe He showedthe first signs of having a special connection with the divine as earlyas 983089983095 and spent the next decades of his life moving around the areaof what is now western Ukraine and eastern Poland attractingfollowers Rebbe Nachmans travels even brought him to Palestine where he met and talked with prominent Jewish sages and scholars
In 9830899830969830881048626 he settled in Bratslav (as Breslov is more commonlyknown) and announced the creation of a new movement ofHasidism the Breslov Hasidism
When pilgrimage to Rebbe
Nachmans grave resumed in
the early 1990s the locals ofUman were amazed by the Rosh
Hashanah antics of visiting Jews
62 63
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3265
Rebbe Nachman was incredibly popular but not everyone
liked him because of some of his more radical ideas one of whichencouraged people to feel free to find spiritual leaders for themselvesand to break with the tradition of the hereditary Hasidic dynastiesRebbe Nachman also encouraged the individual search for the divineHis teachings spread during tumultuous times The beginning of the983089983097th Century saw the spread of democratic ideas across Europe andfor the first time in centuries Jews enjoyed ndash at least theoretically ndashequal rights Many chose fuller integration into the modernEuropean society but for more conservative Jews these changesthreatened the foundation of their communities The teachingsof Rebbe Nachman were a sort of reaction to this trend blendingtradition with more individual freedom
Whether Rebbe Nachman thought of himself as a Messiah is stilla matter of dispute Some phrases from his teachings would makegreat Facebook quotes in todays era of soul-searching and positivethinking such as If you believe that you can damage then believethat you can fixrdquo or You are never given an obstacle you cannotovercome
In Breslov Rebbe Nachman saw his movement flourish andgrow with great crowds of followers assembling for feasts like RoshHashanah Chanukah or Shavuot when they eagerly listened to histeachings In 983089983096983089983088 however he had to move
Consumption had been devouring the still young Rebbe Nachmanfor some time and then his house was destroyed by fire He movedto nearby Uman a town of great significance for the local Jewishcommunity In 983089983095983094983096 about 1048626983088983088983088983088 Jews from Uman along withmany Poles and Uniate Ukrainians were killed by the UkrainianHaidamak rebels who had risen against the then Polish-LithuanianCommonwealth
1 Selling Rebbe Nachman-
themed techno music on Pushkin
Street
2 For many Breslov Hasidim the
pilgrimage is also an opportunity
to meet old friends and make
new ones
3 Rebbe Nachman is the
descendant of Baal Shem Tov the
founder of Hasidism a branch
of Orthodox Judaism wheremysticism is at the foundation of
spirituality
3
1
2
64 65
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3365
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3465
68 69
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3565
Over the following two decades the Rosh Hashanah gatheringin Uman became ever stronger On average about 983089983088983088983088983088-983089983093983088983088983088Hasidim come to celebrate each year The atmosphere is festive in thestreets and tense around the grave of Rebbe Nachman and peopleare generally friendly even when they notice the odd tourist in thecrowd Many of the pilgrims get tipsy and dance to rave and rock
music booming from stalls gardens and balconies Children runto and fro carrying presents bought from the ramshackle openairmarket
There are signs however that these people are not the average partygoers The song lyrics are devoted to Rebbe Nachman Umanand Rosh Hashanah Shofars howl and the streets are lined withbarbers shaving the heads of pilgrims in the traditional way The posters on the walls announce the scheduled flights to and fromUman and the crowd is predominantly male
Sometimes there is violence Many locals are not happy with the pilgrims and the fact that many Hasidim have bought propertiesaround Pushkin Street introducing their very specific lifestyle Thereare complaints about the noise and the rubbish and the level ofsecurity 1048626983088983089983088 is remembered for several sometimes bloody fightsbetween locals and pilgrims Overall though visiting Uman for RoshHashanah can turn into the experience of a lifetime even for people with only a faint interest in Judaism The event is an immersion in abygone era right amid the post-Soviet reality of Ukraine
In 1048626983088983089983092 Rosh Hashanah begins at sunset on 1048626983092 September andends at nightfall of 1048626983094 September
Top After decades of
prosecution pilgrimage in Uman
is again safe and many children
mingle in the crowd
Bottom A Jewish boy tries his
brand new plastic gun bought
as a New Years present froma makeshift openair market in
Uman
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3665
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3765
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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82
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150 984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143Stara Zagora50 Han Asparuh St Zagorka lakephone 042 985 555 042 985 555
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4265
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150983123983156983137983154983137 983130983137983143983151983154983137
Липи прави улици и дружелюбна
атмосфера в един от най-интересните градове на България
текст Димитър Ивановфотография Антони Георгиев
by Dimitar Ivanovphotography by Anthony Georgieff
Lindens straight streets and
fiendly atmosphere in one o themost interesting cities o Bulgaria
984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143984097984130984112984128984112 984087984112984115984126984128984112
Когато се чудите накъде да тръгнете в първите топлидни на есента Стара Загора е едно от най-добрите ре-шения Отдалечен на 10486263983088 км по магистрала Тракияградът е изключително близо за онези които живеят вСофия и предлага много повече спокойствие и зелени-на от столицата дружелюбна атмосфера приятни заве-дения и исторически и природни забележителностикоито да запълнят кратката ви ваканция
Стара Загора е един от най-старите градове в ЕвропаПървите хора се заселили тук около VII-VI хилядоле-тие пр Хр Около IV впрХр на мястото на съвремен-на Стара Загора се появява град на траките известен с
When you are wondering where to go for the first warm days of the autumn Stara Zagora is one of the bestsolutions About 10486263983088 km on the Trakiya Motorway thecity is close enough for those living in Sofia and offersmore serenity and greenery than the capital The city hasalso nice cafeacutes and restaurants and enough historical andnature sites to fill a short holiday
Stara Zagora is one of the oldest cities in EuropeThe fist people settled in the area around the 983095-983094thmillennia BC Around the 983092th Century BC on the placeof modern Stara Zagora appeared a settlement of theThracians which was called Beroe It was conquered by
phone 042 985 555 042 985 555reservationshotelstarazagoraeu
wwwhotelstarazagoraeu
The fi ve-star Park Hotel Stara Zagora is situated on the bank of the romantic Zagorka Lake in Stara Zagora
Hotel with 31 luxurious rooms two luxurious apartments and one VIP apartment
State-of-the-art SPA centre with swimming pool jacuzzi fitness hall steam bath sauna
Turkish bath and massage room
Six conference rooms with capacity between seven and 250 people equipped with multimedia
and other presentational technique and tools Orfeida Restaurant with amazing interior and a capacity for up to 150 people plus a summer and a winter garden
Park for biking fishing boating jogging and other sports and activities
All dreams lead toPark Hotel Stara Zagora
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4365
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4465
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6565
where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3065
Tousands o Hassidim gatherin Ukrainian city to celebrate
Jewish New Year by Dimana Trankova photography by Anthony Georgieff
60 61
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3165
Dusty and drab devoid of any charm unless you count the 983089983096thCentury Sofyivka Park and the Georgian cheese pastries at the busstation the Ukrainian city of Uman would be a strong contender forthe most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe
But it is not the most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe ndash atleast not for a couple of days each year when it gets filled with joyfulcrowds of Ultra religious Jews flown in from as far as Canada BritainIsrael and Australia to celebrate the Jewish New Year usually inSeptember They all converge at Pushkin Street take out their heavyluggage and drag it to their rented rooms in small houses and tallSocialist apartment blocks Music is booming the smell of cookedfood comes from the tents of the openair eateries Happy people inthe streets greet each other smiling from ear to ear when they meetand embrace some old friend
Uman a city of roughly 983097983088983088983088983088 residents in western Ukraine is thefocus of pilgrimage for Hasidic Jews who come here to celebrate atthe tomb of one of their greatest spiritual leaders
Rebbe Nachman (9830899830959830951048626-983089983096983089983088) of Breslov was the great-grandson ofBaal Shem Tov the founder of Hasidism a conservative movementthat spread among the Ashkenazi Jews in Eastern Europe He showedthe first signs of having a special connection with the divine as earlyas 983089983095 and spent the next decades of his life moving around the areaof what is now western Ukraine and eastern Poland attractingfollowers Rebbe Nachmans travels even brought him to Palestine where he met and talked with prominent Jewish sages and scholars
In 9830899830969830881048626 he settled in Bratslav (as Breslov is more commonlyknown) and announced the creation of a new movement ofHasidism the Breslov Hasidism
When pilgrimage to Rebbe
Nachmans grave resumed in
the early 1990s the locals ofUman were amazed by the Rosh
Hashanah antics of visiting Jews
62 63
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3265
Rebbe Nachman was incredibly popular but not everyone
liked him because of some of his more radical ideas one of whichencouraged people to feel free to find spiritual leaders for themselvesand to break with the tradition of the hereditary Hasidic dynastiesRebbe Nachman also encouraged the individual search for the divineHis teachings spread during tumultuous times The beginning of the983089983097th Century saw the spread of democratic ideas across Europe andfor the first time in centuries Jews enjoyed ndash at least theoretically ndashequal rights Many chose fuller integration into the modernEuropean society but for more conservative Jews these changesthreatened the foundation of their communities The teachingsof Rebbe Nachman were a sort of reaction to this trend blendingtradition with more individual freedom
Whether Rebbe Nachman thought of himself as a Messiah is stilla matter of dispute Some phrases from his teachings would makegreat Facebook quotes in todays era of soul-searching and positivethinking such as If you believe that you can damage then believethat you can fixrdquo or You are never given an obstacle you cannotovercome
In Breslov Rebbe Nachman saw his movement flourish andgrow with great crowds of followers assembling for feasts like RoshHashanah Chanukah or Shavuot when they eagerly listened to histeachings In 983089983096983089983088 however he had to move
Consumption had been devouring the still young Rebbe Nachmanfor some time and then his house was destroyed by fire He movedto nearby Uman a town of great significance for the local Jewishcommunity In 983089983095983094983096 about 1048626983088983088983088983088 Jews from Uman along withmany Poles and Uniate Ukrainians were killed by the UkrainianHaidamak rebels who had risen against the then Polish-LithuanianCommonwealth
1 Selling Rebbe Nachman-
themed techno music on Pushkin
Street
2 For many Breslov Hasidim the
pilgrimage is also an opportunity
to meet old friends and make
new ones
3 Rebbe Nachman is the
descendant of Baal Shem Tov the
founder of Hasidism a branch
of Orthodox Judaism wheremysticism is at the foundation of
spirituality
3
1
2
64 65
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3365
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3465
68 69
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3565
Over the following two decades the Rosh Hashanah gatheringin Uman became ever stronger On average about 983089983088983088983088983088-983089983093983088983088983088Hasidim come to celebrate each year The atmosphere is festive in thestreets and tense around the grave of Rebbe Nachman and peopleare generally friendly even when they notice the odd tourist in thecrowd Many of the pilgrims get tipsy and dance to rave and rock
music booming from stalls gardens and balconies Children runto and fro carrying presents bought from the ramshackle openairmarket
There are signs however that these people are not the average partygoers The song lyrics are devoted to Rebbe Nachman Umanand Rosh Hashanah Shofars howl and the streets are lined withbarbers shaving the heads of pilgrims in the traditional way The posters on the walls announce the scheduled flights to and fromUman and the crowd is predominantly male
Sometimes there is violence Many locals are not happy with the pilgrims and the fact that many Hasidim have bought propertiesaround Pushkin Street introducing their very specific lifestyle Thereare complaints about the noise and the rubbish and the level ofsecurity 1048626983088983089983088 is remembered for several sometimes bloody fightsbetween locals and pilgrims Overall though visiting Uman for RoshHashanah can turn into the experience of a lifetime even for people with only a faint interest in Judaism The event is an immersion in abygone era right amid the post-Soviet reality of Ukraine
In 1048626983088983089983092 Rosh Hashanah begins at sunset on 1048626983092 September andends at nightfall of 1048626983094 September
Top After decades of
prosecution pilgrimage in Uman
is again safe and many children
mingle in the crowd
Bottom A Jewish boy tries his
brand new plastic gun bought
as a New Years present froma makeshift openair market in
Uman
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3665
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3765
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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82
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150 984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143Stara Zagora50 Han Asparuh St Zagorka lakephone 042 985 555 042 985 555
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150983123983156983137983154983137 983130983137983143983151983154983137
Липи прави улици и дружелюбна
атмосфера в един от най-интересните градове на България
текст Димитър Ивановфотография Антони Георгиев
by Dimitar Ivanovphotography by Anthony Georgieff
Lindens straight streets and
fiendly atmosphere in one o themost interesting cities o Bulgaria
984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143984097984130984112984128984112 984087984112984115984126984128984112
Когато се чудите накъде да тръгнете в първите топлидни на есента Стара Загора е едно от най-добрите ре-шения Отдалечен на 10486263983088 км по магистрала Тракияградът е изключително близо за онези които живеят вСофия и предлага много повече спокойствие и зелени-на от столицата дружелюбна атмосфера приятни заве-дения и исторически и природни забележителностикоито да запълнят кратката ви ваканция
Стара Загора е един от най-старите градове в ЕвропаПървите хора се заселили тук около VII-VI хилядоле-тие пр Хр Около IV впрХр на мястото на съвремен-на Стара Загора се появява град на траките известен с
When you are wondering where to go for the first warm days of the autumn Stara Zagora is one of the bestsolutions About 10486263983088 km on the Trakiya Motorway thecity is close enough for those living in Sofia and offersmore serenity and greenery than the capital The city hasalso nice cafeacutes and restaurants and enough historical andnature sites to fill a short holiday
Stara Zagora is one of the oldest cities in EuropeThe fist people settled in the area around the 983095-983094thmillennia BC Around the 983092th Century BC on the placeof modern Stara Zagora appeared a settlement of theThracians which was called Beroe It was conquered by
phone 042 985 555 042 985 555reservationshotelstarazagoraeu
wwwhotelstarazagoraeu
The fi ve-star Park Hotel Stara Zagora is situated on the bank of the romantic Zagorka Lake in Stara Zagora
Hotel with 31 luxurious rooms two luxurious apartments and one VIP apartment
State-of-the-art SPA centre with swimming pool jacuzzi fitness hall steam bath sauna
Turkish bath and massage room
Six conference rooms with capacity between seven and 250 people equipped with multimedia
and other presentational technique and tools Orfeida Restaurant with amazing interior and a capacity for up to 150 people plus a summer and a winter garden
Park for biking fishing boating jogging and other sports and activities
All dreams lead toPark Hotel Stara Zagora
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4365
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4465
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6565
where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3165
Dusty and drab devoid of any charm unless you count the 983089983096thCentury Sofyivka Park and the Georgian cheese pastries at the busstation the Ukrainian city of Uman would be a strong contender forthe most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe
But it is not the most uninteresting place in Eastern Europe ndash atleast not for a couple of days each year when it gets filled with joyfulcrowds of Ultra religious Jews flown in from as far as Canada BritainIsrael and Australia to celebrate the Jewish New Year usually inSeptember They all converge at Pushkin Street take out their heavyluggage and drag it to their rented rooms in small houses and tallSocialist apartment blocks Music is booming the smell of cookedfood comes from the tents of the openair eateries Happy people inthe streets greet each other smiling from ear to ear when they meetand embrace some old friend
Uman a city of roughly 983097983088983088983088983088 residents in western Ukraine is thefocus of pilgrimage for Hasidic Jews who come here to celebrate atthe tomb of one of their greatest spiritual leaders
Rebbe Nachman (9830899830959830951048626-983089983096983089983088) of Breslov was the great-grandson ofBaal Shem Tov the founder of Hasidism a conservative movementthat spread among the Ashkenazi Jews in Eastern Europe He showedthe first signs of having a special connection with the divine as earlyas 983089983095 and spent the next decades of his life moving around the areaof what is now western Ukraine and eastern Poland attractingfollowers Rebbe Nachmans travels even brought him to Palestine where he met and talked with prominent Jewish sages and scholars
In 9830899830969830881048626 he settled in Bratslav (as Breslov is more commonlyknown) and announced the creation of a new movement ofHasidism the Breslov Hasidism
When pilgrimage to Rebbe
Nachmans grave resumed in
the early 1990s the locals ofUman were amazed by the Rosh
Hashanah antics of visiting Jews
62 63
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3265
Rebbe Nachman was incredibly popular but not everyone
liked him because of some of his more radical ideas one of whichencouraged people to feel free to find spiritual leaders for themselvesand to break with the tradition of the hereditary Hasidic dynastiesRebbe Nachman also encouraged the individual search for the divineHis teachings spread during tumultuous times The beginning of the983089983097th Century saw the spread of democratic ideas across Europe andfor the first time in centuries Jews enjoyed ndash at least theoretically ndashequal rights Many chose fuller integration into the modernEuropean society but for more conservative Jews these changesthreatened the foundation of their communities The teachingsof Rebbe Nachman were a sort of reaction to this trend blendingtradition with more individual freedom
Whether Rebbe Nachman thought of himself as a Messiah is stilla matter of dispute Some phrases from his teachings would makegreat Facebook quotes in todays era of soul-searching and positivethinking such as If you believe that you can damage then believethat you can fixrdquo or You are never given an obstacle you cannotovercome
In Breslov Rebbe Nachman saw his movement flourish andgrow with great crowds of followers assembling for feasts like RoshHashanah Chanukah or Shavuot when they eagerly listened to histeachings In 983089983096983089983088 however he had to move
Consumption had been devouring the still young Rebbe Nachmanfor some time and then his house was destroyed by fire He movedto nearby Uman a town of great significance for the local Jewishcommunity In 983089983095983094983096 about 1048626983088983088983088983088 Jews from Uman along withmany Poles and Uniate Ukrainians were killed by the UkrainianHaidamak rebels who had risen against the then Polish-LithuanianCommonwealth
1 Selling Rebbe Nachman-
themed techno music on Pushkin
Street
2 For many Breslov Hasidim the
pilgrimage is also an opportunity
to meet old friends and make
new ones
3 Rebbe Nachman is the
descendant of Baal Shem Tov the
founder of Hasidism a branch
of Orthodox Judaism wheremysticism is at the foundation of
spirituality
3
1
2
64 65
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3365
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3465
68 69
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3565
Over the following two decades the Rosh Hashanah gatheringin Uman became ever stronger On average about 983089983088983088983088983088-983089983093983088983088983088Hasidim come to celebrate each year The atmosphere is festive in thestreets and tense around the grave of Rebbe Nachman and peopleare generally friendly even when they notice the odd tourist in thecrowd Many of the pilgrims get tipsy and dance to rave and rock
music booming from stalls gardens and balconies Children runto and fro carrying presents bought from the ramshackle openairmarket
There are signs however that these people are not the average partygoers The song lyrics are devoted to Rebbe Nachman Umanand Rosh Hashanah Shofars howl and the streets are lined withbarbers shaving the heads of pilgrims in the traditional way The posters on the walls announce the scheduled flights to and fromUman and the crowd is predominantly male
Sometimes there is violence Many locals are not happy with the pilgrims and the fact that many Hasidim have bought propertiesaround Pushkin Street introducing their very specific lifestyle Thereare complaints about the noise and the rubbish and the level ofsecurity 1048626983088983089983088 is remembered for several sometimes bloody fightsbetween locals and pilgrims Overall though visiting Uman for RoshHashanah can turn into the experience of a lifetime even for people with only a faint interest in Judaism The event is an immersion in abygone era right amid the post-Soviet reality of Ukraine
In 1048626983088983089983092 Rosh Hashanah begins at sunset on 1048626983092 September andends at nightfall of 1048626983094 September
Top After decades of
prosecution pilgrimage in Uman
is again safe and many children
mingle in the crowd
Bottom A Jewish boy tries his
brand new plastic gun bought
as a New Years present froma makeshift openair market in
Uman
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3665
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3765
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3865
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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82
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150 984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143Stara Zagora50 Han Asparuh St Zagorka lakephone 042 985 555 042 985 555
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4265
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150983123983156983137983154983137 983130983137983143983151983154983137
Липи прави улици и дружелюбна
атмосфера в един от най-интересните градове на България
текст Димитър Ивановфотография Антони Георгиев
by Dimitar Ivanovphotography by Anthony Georgieff
Lindens straight streets and
fiendly atmosphere in one o themost interesting cities o Bulgaria
984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143984097984130984112984128984112 984087984112984115984126984128984112
Когато се чудите накъде да тръгнете в първите топлидни на есента Стара Загора е едно от най-добрите ре-шения Отдалечен на 10486263983088 км по магистрала Тракияградът е изключително близо за онези които живеят вСофия и предлага много повече спокойствие и зелени-на от столицата дружелюбна атмосфера приятни заве-дения и исторически и природни забележителностикоито да запълнят кратката ви ваканция
Стара Загора е един от най-старите градове в ЕвропаПървите хора се заселили тук около VII-VI хилядоле-тие пр Хр Около IV впрХр на мястото на съвремен-на Стара Загора се появява град на траките известен с
When you are wondering where to go for the first warm days of the autumn Stara Zagora is one of the bestsolutions About 10486263983088 km on the Trakiya Motorway thecity is close enough for those living in Sofia and offersmore serenity and greenery than the capital The city hasalso nice cafeacutes and restaurants and enough historical andnature sites to fill a short holiday
Stara Zagora is one of the oldest cities in EuropeThe fist people settled in the area around the 983095-983094thmillennia BC Around the 983092th Century BC on the placeof modern Stara Zagora appeared a settlement of theThracians which was called Beroe It was conquered by
phone 042 985 555 042 985 555reservationshotelstarazagoraeu
wwwhotelstarazagoraeu
The fi ve-star Park Hotel Stara Zagora is situated on the bank of the romantic Zagorka Lake in Stara Zagora
Hotel with 31 luxurious rooms two luxurious apartments and one VIP apartment
State-of-the-art SPA centre with swimming pool jacuzzi fitness hall steam bath sauna
Turkish bath and massage room
Six conference rooms with capacity between seven and 250 people equipped with multimedia
and other presentational technique and tools Orfeida Restaurant with amazing interior and a capacity for up to 150 people plus a summer and a winter garden
Park for biking fishing boating jogging and other sports and activities
All dreams lead toPark Hotel Stara Zagora
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4365
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4465
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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Rebbe Nachman was incredibly popular but not everyone
liked him because of some of his more radical ideas one of whichencouraged people to feel free to find spiritual leaders for themselvesand to break with the tradition of the hereditary Hasidic dynastiesRebbe Nachman also encouraged the individual search for the divineHis teachings spread during tumultuous times The beginning of the983089983097th Century saw the spread of democratic ideas across Europe andfor the first time in centuries Jews enjoyed ndash at least theoretically ndashequal rights Many chose fuller integration into the modernEuropean society but for more conservative Jews these changesthreatened the foundation of their communities The teachingsof Rebbe Nachman were a sort of reaction to this trend blendingtradition with more individual freedom
Whether Rebbe Nachman thought of himself as a Messiah is stilla matter of dispute Some phrases from his teachings would makegreat Facebook quotes in todays era of soul-searching and positivethinking such as If you believe that you can damage then believethat you can fixrdquo or You are never given an obstacle you cannotovercome
In Breslov Rebbe Nachman saw his movement flourish andgrow with great crowds of followers assembling for feasts like RoshHashanah Chanukah or Shavuot when they eagerly listened to histeachings In 983089983096983089983088 however he had to move
Consumption had been devouring the still young Rebbe Nachmanfor some time and then his house was destroyed by fire He movedto nearby Uman a town of great significance for the local Jewishcommunity In 983089983095983094983096 about 1048626983088983088983088983088 Jews from Uman along withmany Poles and Uniate Ukrainians were killed by the UkrainianHaidamak rebels who had risen against the then Polish-LithuanianCommonwealth
1 Selling Rebbe Nachman-
themed techno music on Pushkin
Street
2 For many Breslov Hasidim the
pilgrimage is also an opportunity
to meet old friends and make
new ones
3 Rebbe Nachman is the
descendant of Baal Shem Tov the
founder of Hasidism a branch
of Orthodox Judaism wheremysticism is at the foundation of
spirituality
3
1
2
64 65
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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68 69
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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Over the following two decades the Rosh Hashanah gatheringin Uman became ever stronger On average about 983089983088983088983088983088-983089983093983088983088983088Hasidim come to celebrate each year The atmosphere is festive in thestreets and tense around the grave of Rebbe Nachman and peopleare generally friendly even when they notice the odd tourist in thecrowd Many of the pilgrims get tipsy and dance to rave and rock
music booming from stalls gardens and balconies Children runto and fro carrying presents bought from the ramshackle openairmarket
There are signs however that these people are not the average partygoers The song lyrics are devoted to Rebbe Nachman Umanand Rosh Hashanah Shofars howl and the streets are lined withbarbers shaving the heads of pilgrims in the traditional way The posters on the walls announce the scheduled flights to and fromUman and the crowd is predominantly male
Sometimes there is violence Many locals are not happy with the pilgrims and the fact that many Hasidim have bought propertiesaround Pushkin Street introducing their very specific lifestyle Thereare complaints about the noise and the rubbish and the level ofsecurity 1048626983088983089983088 is remembered for several sometimes bloody fightsbetween locals and pilgrims Overall though visiting Uman for RoshHashanah can turn into the experience of a lifetime even for people with only a faint interest in Judaism The event is an immersion in abygone era right amid the post-Soviet reality of Ukraine
In 1048626983088983089983092 Rosh Hashanah begins at sunset on 1048626983092 September andends at nightfall of 1048626983094 September
Top After decades of
prosecution pilgrimage in Uman
is again safe and many children
mingle in the crowd
Bottom A Jewish boy tries his
brand new plastic gun bought
as a New Years present froma makeshift openair market in
Uman
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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82
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150 984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143Stara Zagora50 Han Asparuh St Zagorka lakephone 042 985 555 042 985 555
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150983123983156983137983154983137 983130983137983143983151983154983137
Липи прави улици и дружелюбна
атмосфера в един от най-интересните градове на България
текст Димитър Ивановфотография Антони Георгиев
by Dimitar Ivanovphotography by Anthony Georgieff
Lindens straight streets and
fiendly atmosphere in one o themost interesting cities o Bulgaria
984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143984097984130984112984128984112 984087984112984115984126984128984112
Когато се чудите накъде да тръгнете в първите топлидни на есента Стара Загора е едно от най-добрите ре-шения Отдалечен на 10486263983088 км по магистрала Тракияградът е изключително близо за онези които живеят вСофия и предлага много повече спокойствие и зелени-на от столицата дружелюбна атмосфера приятни заве-дения и исторически и природни забележителностикоито да запълнят кратката ви ваканция
Стара Загора е един от най-старите градове в ЕвропаПървите хора се заселили тук около VII-VI хилядоле-тие пр Хр Около IV впрХр на мястото на съвремен-на Стара Загора се появява град на траките известен с
When you are wondering where to go for the first warm days of the autumn Stara Zagora is one of the bestsolutions About 10486263983088 km on the Trakiya Motorway thecity is close enough for those living in Sofia and offersmore serenity and greenery than the capital The city hasalso nice cafeacutes and restaurants and enough historical andnature sites to fill a short holiday
Stara Zagora is one of the oldest cities in EuropeThe fist people settled in the area around the 983095-983094thmillennia BC Around the 983092th Century BC on the placeof modern Stara Zagora appeared a settlement of theThracians which was called Beroe It was conquered by
phone 042 985 555 042 985 555reservationshotelstarazagoraeu
wwwhotelstarazagoraeu
The fi ve-star Park Hotel Stara Zagora is situated on the bank of the romantic Zagorka Lake in Stara Zagora
Hotel with 31 luxurious rooms two luxurious apartments and one VIP apartment
State-of-the-art SPA centre with swimming pool jacuzzi fitness hall steam bath sauna
Turkish bath and massage room
Six conference rooms with capacity between seven and 250 people equipped with multimedia
and other presentational technique and tools Orfeida Restaurant with amazing interior and a capacity for up to 150 people plus a summer and a winter garden
Park for biking fishing boating jogging and other sports and activities
All dreams lead toPark Hotel Stara Zagora
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6565
where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3365
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3465
68 69
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3565
Over the following two decades the Rosh Hashanah gatheringin Uman became ever stronger On average about 983089983088983088983088983088-983089983093983088983088983088Hasidim come to celebrate each year The atmosphere is festive in thestreets and tense around the grave of Rebbe Nachman and peopleare generally friendly even when they notice the odd tourist in thecrowd Many of the pilgrims get tipsy and dance to rave and rock
music booming from stalls gardens and balconies Children runto and fro carrying presents bought from the ramshackle openairmarket
There are signs however that these people are not the average partygoers The song lyrics are devoted to Rebbe Nachman Umanand Rosh Hashanah Shofars howl and the streets are lined withbarbers shaving the heads of pilgrims in the traditional way The posters on the walls announce the scheduled flights to and fromUman and the crowd is predominantly male
Sometimes there is violence Many locals are not happy with the pilgrims and the fact that many Hasidim have bought propertiesaround Pushkin Street introducing their very specific lifestyle Thereare complaints about the noise and the rubbish and the level ofsecurity 1048626983088983089983088 is remembered for several sometimes bloody fightsbetween locals and pilgrims Overall though visiting Uman for RoshHashanah can turn into the experience of a lifetime even for people with only a faint interest in Judaism The event is an immersion in abygone era right amid the post-Soviet reality of Ukraine
In 1048626983088983089983092 Rosh Hashanah begins at sunset on 1048626983092 September andends at nightfall of 1048626983094 September
Top After decades of
prosecution pilgrimage in Uman
is again safe and many children
mingle in the crowd
Bottom A Jewish boy tries his
brand new plastic gun bought
as a New Years present froma makeshift openair market in
Uman
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3665
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3765
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3865
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4165
82
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150 984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143Stara Zagora50 Han Asparuh St Zagorka lakephone 042 985 555 042 985 555
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4265
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150983123983156983137983154983137 983130983137983143983151983154983137
Липи прави улици и дружелюбна
атмосфера в един от най-интересните градове на България
текст Димитър Ивановфотография Антони Георгиев
by Dimitar Ivanovphotography by Anthony Georgieff
Lindens straight streets and
fiendly atmosphere in one o themost interesting cities o Bulgaria
984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143984097984130984112984128984112 984087984112984115984126984128984112
Когато се чудите накъде да тръгнете в първите топлидни на есента Стара Загора е едно от най-добрите ре-шения Отдалечен на 10486263983088 км по магистрала Тракияградът е изключително близо за онези които живеят вСофия и предлага много повече спокойствие и зелени-на от столицата дружелюбна атмосфера приятни заве-дения и исторически и природни забележителностикоито да запълнят кратката ви ваканция
Стара Загора е един от най-старите градове в ЕвропаПървите хора се заселили тук около VII-VI хилядоле-тие пр Хр Около IV впрХр на мястото на съвремен-на Стара Загора се появява град на траките известен с
When you are wondering where to go for the first warm days of the autumn Stara Zagora is one of the bestsolutions About 10486263983088 km on the Trakiya Motorway thecity is close enough for those living in Sofia and offersmore serenity and greenery than the capital The city hasalso nice cafeacutes and restaurants and enough historical andnature sites to fill a short holiday
Stara Zagora is one of the oldest cities in EuropeThe fist people settled in the area around the 983095-983094thmillennia BC Around the 983092th Century BC on the placeof modern Stara Zagora appeared a settlement of theThracians which was called Beroe It was conquered by
phone 042 985 555 042 985 555reservationshotelstarazagoraeu
wwwhotelstarazagoraeu
The fi ve-star Park Hotel Stara Zagora is situated on the bank of the romantic Zagorka Lake in Stara Zagora
Hotel with 31 luxurious rooms two luxurious apartments and one VIP apartment
State-of-the-art SPA centre with swimming pool jacuzzi fitness hall steam bath sauna
Turkish bath and massage room
Six conference rooms with capacity between seven and 250 people equipped with multimedia
and other presentational technique and tools Orfeida Restaurant with amazing interior and a capacity for up to 150 people plus a summer and a winter garden
Park for biking fishing boating jogging and other sports and activities
All dreams lead toPark Hotel Stara Zagora
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4365
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4465
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4565
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6565
where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3465
68 69
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3565
Over the following two decades the Rosh Hashanah gatheringin Uman became ever stronger On average about 983089983088983088983088983088-983089983093983088983088983088Hasidim come to celebrate each year The atmosphere is festive in thestreets and tense around the grave of Rebbe Nachman and peopleare generally friendly even when they notice the odd tourist in thecrowd Many of the pilgrims get tipsy and dance to rave and rock
music booming from stalls gardens and balconies Children runto and fro carrying presents bought from the ramshackle openairmarket
There are signs however that these people are not the average partygoers The song lyrics are devoted to Rebbe Nachman Umanand Rosh Hashanah Shofars howl and the streets are lined withbarbers shaving the heads of pilgrims in the traditional way The posters on the walls announce the scheduled flights to and fromUman and the crowd is predominantly male
Sometimes there is violence Many locals are not happy with the pilgrims and the fact that many Hasidim have bought propertiesaround Pushkin Street introducing their very specific lifestyle Thereare complaints about the noise and the rubbish and the level ofsecurity 1048626983088983089983088 is remembered for several sometimes bloody fightsbetween locals and pilgrims Overall though visiting Uman for RoshHashanah can turn into the experience of a lifetime even for people with only a faint interest in Judaism The event is an immersion in abygone era right amid the post-Soviet reality of Ukraine
In 1048626983088983089983092 Rosh Hashanah begins at sunset on 1048626983092 September andends at nightfall of 1048626983094 September
Top After decades of
prosecution pilgrimage in Uman
is again safe and many children
mingle in the crowd
Bottom A Jewish boy tries his
brand new plastic gun bought
as a New Years present froma makeshift openair market in
Uman
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3665
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3765
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3865
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4165
82
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150 984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143Stara Zagora50 Han Asparuh St Zagorka lakephone 042 985 555 042 985 555
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4265
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150983123983156983137983154983137 983130983137983143983151983154983137
Липи прави улици и дружелюбна
атмосфера в един от най-интересните градове на България
текст Димитър Ивановфотография Антони Георгиев
by Dimitar Ivanovphotography by Anthony Georgieff
Lindens straight streets and
fiendly atmosphere in one o themost interesting cities o Bulgaria
984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143984097984130984112984128984112 984087984112984115984126984128984112
Когато се чудите накъде да тръгнете в първите топлидни на есента Стара Загора е едно от най-добрите ре-шения Отдалечен на 10486263983088 км по магистрала Тракияградът е изключително близо за онези които живеят вСофия и предлага много повече спокойствие и зелени-на от столицата дружелюбна атмосфера приятни заве-дения и исторически и природни забележителностикоито да запълнят кратката ви ваканция
Стара Загора е един от най-старите градове в ЕвропаПървите хора се заселили тук около VII-VI хилядоле-тие пр Хр Около IV впрХр на мястото на съвремен-на Стара Загора се появява град на траките известен с
When you are wondering where to go for the first warm days of the autumn Stara Zagora is one of the bestsolutions About 10486263983088 km on the Trakiya Motorway thecity is close enough for those living in Sofia and offersmore serenity and greenery than the capital The city hasalso nice cafeacutes and restaurants and enough historical andnature sites to fill a short holiday
Stara Zagora is one of the oldest cities in EuropeThe fist people settled in the area around the 983095-983094thmillennia BC Around the 983092th Century BC on the placeof modern Stara Zagora appeared a settlement of theThracians which was called Beroe It was conquered by
phone 042 985 555 042 985 555reservationshotelstarazagoraeu
wwwhotelstarazagoraeu
The fi ve-star Park Hotel Stara Zagora is situated on the bank of the romantic Zagorka Lake in Stara Zagora
Hotel with 31 luxurious rooms two luxurious apartments and one VIP apartment
State-of-the-art SPA centre with swimming pool jacuzzi fitness hall steam bath sauna
Turkish bath and massage room
Six conference rooms with capacity between seven and 250 people equipped with multimedia
and other presentational technique and tools Orfeida Restaurant with amazing interior and a capacity for up to 150 people plus a summer and a winter garden
Park for biking fishing boating jogging and other sports and activities
All dreams lead toPark Hotel Stara Zagora
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3565
Over the following two decades the Rosh Hashanah gatheringin Uman became ever stronger On average about 983089983088983088983088983088-983089983093983088983088983088Hasidim come to celebrate each year The atmosphere is festive in thestreets and tense around the grave of Rebbe Nachman and peopleare generally friendly even when they notice the odd tourist in thecrowd Many of the pilgrims get tipsy and dance to rave and rock
music booming from stalls gardens and balconies Children runto and fro carrying presents bought from the ramshackle openairmarket
There are signs however that these people are not the average partygoers The song lyrics are devoted to Rebbe Nachman Umanand Rosh Hashanah Shofars howl and the streets are lined withbarbers shaving the heads of pilgrims in the traditional way The posters on the walls announce the scheduled flights to and fromUman and the crowd is predominantly male
Sometimes there is violence Many locals are not happy with the pilgrims and the fact that many Hasidim have bought propertiesaround Pushkin Street introducing their very specific lifestyle Thereare complaints about the noise and the rubbish and the level ofsecurity 1048626983088983089983088 is remembered for several sometimes bloody fightsbetween locals and pilgrims Overall though visiting Uman for RoshHashanah can turn into the experience of a lifetime even for people with only a faint interest in Judaism The event is an immersion in abygone era right amid the post-Soviet reality of Ukraine
In 1048626983088983089983092 Rosh Hashanah begins at sunset on 1048626983092 September andends at nightfall of 1048626983094 September
Top After decades of
prosecution pilgrimage in Uman
is again safe and many children
mingle in the crowd
Bottom A Jewish boy tries his
brand new plastic gun bought
as a New Years present froma makeshift openair market in
Uman
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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82
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150 984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143Stara Zagora50 Han Asparuh St Zagorka lakephone 042 985 555 042 985 555
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4265
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150983123983156983137983154983137 983130983137983143983151983154983137
Липи прави улици и дружелюбна
атмосфера в един от най-интересните градове на България
текст Димитър Ивановфотография Антони Георгиев
by Dimitar Ivanovphotography by Anthony Georgieff
Lindens straight streets and
fiendly atmosphere in one o themost interesting cities o Bulgaria
984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143984097984130984112984128984112 984087984112984115984126984128984112
Когато се чудите накъде да тръгнете в първите топлидни на есента Стара Загора е едно от най-добрите ре-шения Отдалечен на 10486263983088 км по магистрала Тракияградът е изключително близо за онези които живеят вСофия и предлага много повече спокойствие и зелени-на от столицата дружелюбна атмосфера приятни заве-дения и исторически и природни забележителностикоито да запълнят кратката ви ваканция
Стара Загора е един от най-старите градове в ЕвропаПървите хора се заселили тук около VII-VI хилядоле-тие пр Хр Около IV впрХр на мястото на съвремен-на Стара Загора се появява град на траките известен с
When you are wondering where to go for the first warm days of the autumn Stara Zagora is one of the bestsolutions About 10486263983088 km on the Trakiya Motorway thecity is close enough for those living in Sofia and offersmore serenity and greenery than the capital The city hasalso nice cafeacutes and restaurants and enough historical andnature sites to fill a short holiday
Stara Zagora is one of the oldest cities in EuropeThe fist people settled in the area around the 983095-983094thmillennia BC Around the 983092th Century BC on the placeof modern Stara Zagora appeared a settlement of theThracians which was called Beroe It was conquered by
phone 042 985 555 042 985 555reservationshotelstarazagoraeu
wwwhotelstarazagoraeu
The fi ve-star Park Hotel Stara Zagora is situated on the bank of the romantic Zagorka Lake in Stara Zagora
Hotel with 31 luxurious rooms two luxurious apartments and one VIP apartment
State-of-the-art SPA centre with swimming pool jacuzzi fitness hall steam bath sauna
Turkish bath and massage room
Six conference rooms with capacity between seven and 250 people equipped with multimedia
and other presentational technique and tools Orfeida Restaurant with amazing interior and a capacity for up to 150 people plus a summer and a winter garden
Park for biking fishing boating jogging and other sports and activities
All dreams lead toPark Hotel Stara Zagora
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4365
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4465
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4565
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4665
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4865
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6465
128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6565
where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3665
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3765
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3865
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3965
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4065
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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82
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150 984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143Stara Zagora50 Han Asparuh St Zagorka lakephone 042 985 555 042 985 555
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4265
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150983123983156983137983154983137 983130983137983143983151983154983137
Липи прави улици и дружелюбна
атмосфера в един от най-интересните градове на България
текст Димитър Ивановфотография Антони Георгиев
by Dimitar Ivanovphotography by Anthony Georgieff
Lindens straight streets and
fiendly atmosphere in one o themost interesting cities o Bulgaria
984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143984097984130984112984128984112 984087984112984115984126984128984112
Когато се чудите накъде да тръгнете в първите топлидни на есента Стара Загора е едно от най-добрите ре-шения Отдалечен на 10486263983088 км по магистрала Тракияградът е изключително близо за онези които живеят вСофия и предлага много повече спокойствие и зелени-на от столицата дружелюбна атмосфера приятни заве-дения и исторически и природни забележителностикоито да запълнят кратката ви ваканция
Стара Загора е един от най-старите градове в ЕвропаПървите хора се заселили тук около VII-VI хилядоле-тие пр Хр Около IV впрХр на мястото на съвремен-на Стара Загора се появява град на траките известен с
When you are wondering where to go for the first warm days of the autumn Stara Zagora is one of the bestsolutions About 10486263983088 km on the Trakiya Motorway thecity is close enough for those living in Sofia and offersmore serenity and greenery than the capital The city hasalso nice cafeacutes and restaurants and enough historical andnature sites to fill a short holiday
Stara Zagora is one of the oldest cities in EuropeThe fist people settled in the area around the 983095-983094thmillennia BC Around the 983092th Century BC on the placeof modern Stara Zagora appeared a settlement of theThracians which was called Beroe It was conquered by
phone 042 985 555 042 985 555reservationshotelstarazagoraeu
wwwhotelstarazagoraeu
The fi ve-star Park Hotel Stara Zagora is situated on the bank of the romantic Zagorka Lake in Stara Zagora
Hotel with 31 luxurious rooms two luxurious apartments and one VIP apartment
State-of-the-art SPA centre with swimming pool jacuzzi fitness hall steam bath sauna
Turkish bath and massage room
Six conference rooms with capacity between seven and 250 people equipped with multimedia
and other presentational technique and tools Orfeida Restaurant with amazing interior and a capacity for up to 150 people plus a summer and a winter garden
Park for biking fishing boating jogging and other sports and activities
All dreams lead toPark Hotel Stara Zagora
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4365
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4465
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4565
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4665
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6565
where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3765
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3865
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3965
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4065
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4165
82
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150 984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143Stara Zagora50 Han Asparuh St Zagorka lakephone 042 985 555 042 985 555
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4265
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150983123983156983137983154983137 983130983137983143983151983154983137
Липи прави улици и дружелюбна
атмосфера в един от най-интересните градове на България
текст Димитър Ивановфотография Антони Георгиев
by Dimitar Ivanovphotography by Anthony Georgieff
Lindens straight streets and
fiendly atmosphere in one o themost interesting cities o Bulgaria
984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143984097984130984112984128984112 984087984112984115984126984128984112
Когато се чудите накъде да тръгнете в първите топлидни на есента Стара Загора е едно от най-добрите ре-шения Отдалечен на 10486263983088 км по магистрала Тракияградът е изключително близо за онези които живеят вСофия и предлага много повече спокойствие и зелени-на от столицата дружелюбна атмосфера приятни заве-дения и исторически и природни забележителностикоито да запълнят кратката ви ваканция
Стара Загора е един от най-старите градове в ЕвропаПървите хора се заселили тук около VII-VI хилядоле-тие пр Хр Около IV впрХр на мястото на съвремен-на Стара Загора се появява град на траките известен с
When you are wondering where to go for the first warm days of the autumn Stara Zagora is one of the bestsolutions About 10486263983088 km on the Trakiya Motorway thecity is close enough for those living in Sofia and offersmore serenity and greenery than the capital The city hasalso nice cafeacutes and restaurants and enough historical andnature sites to fill a short holiday
Stara Zagora is one of the oldest cities in EuropeThe fist people settled in the area around the 983095-983094thmillennia BC Around the 983092th Century BC on the placeof modern Stara Zagora appeared a settlement of theThracians which was called Beroe It was conquered by
phone 042 985 555 042 985 555reservationshotelstarazagoraeu
wwwhotelstarazagoraeu
The fi ve-star Park Hotel Stara Zagora is situated on the bank of the romantic Zagorka Lake in Stara Zagora
Hotel with 31 luxurious rooms two luxurious apartments and one VIP apartment
State-of-the-art SPA centre with swimming pool jacuzzi fitness hall steam bath sauna
Turkish bath and massage room
Six conference rooms with capacity between seven and 250 people equipped with multimedia
and other presentational technique and tools Orfeida Restaurant with amazing interior and a capacity for up to 150 people plus a summer and a winter garden
Park for biking fishing boating jogging and other sports and activities
All dreams lead toPark Hotel Stara Zagora
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4465
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6565
where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3865
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3965
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4065
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4165
82
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150 984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143Stara Zagora50 Han Asparuh St Zagorka lakephone 042 985 555 042 985 555
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4265
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150983123983156983137983154983137 983130983137983143983151983154983137
Липи прави улици и дружелюбна
атмосфера в един от най-интересните градове на България
текст Димитър Ивановфотография Антони Георгиев
by Dimitar Ivanovphotography by Anthony Georgieff
Lindens straight streets and
fiendly atmosphere in one o themost interesting cities o Bulgaria
984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143984097984130984112984128984112 984087984112984115984126984128984112
Когато се чудите накъде да тръгнете в първите топлидни на есента Стара Загора е едно от най-добрите ре-шения Отдалечен на 10486263983088 км по магистрала Тракияградът е изключително близо за онези които живеят вСофия и предлага много повече спокойствие и зелени-на от столицата дружелюбна атмосфера приятни заве-дения и исторически и природни забележителностикоито да запълнят кратката ви ваканция
Стара Загора е един от най-старите градове в ЕвропаПървите хора се заселили тук около VII-VI хилядоле-тие пр Хр Около IV впрХр на мястото на съвремен-на Стара Загора се появява град на траките известен с
When you are wondering where to go for the first warm days of the autumn Stara Zagora is one of the bestsolutions About 10486263983088 km on the Trakiya Motorway thecity is close enough for those living in Sofia and offersmore serenity and greenery than the capital The city hasalso nice cafeacutes and restaurants and enough historical andnature sites to fill a short holiday
Stara Zagora is one of the oldest cities in EuropeThe fist people settled in the area around the 983095-983094thmillennia BC Around the 983092th Century BC on the placeof modern Stara Zagora appeared a settlement of theThracians which was called Beroe It was conquered by
phone 042 985 555 042 985 555reservationshotelstarazagoraeu
wwwhotelstarazagoraeu
The fi ve-star Park Hotel Stara Zagora is situated on the bank of the romantic Zagorka Lake in Stara Zagora
Hotel with 31 luxurious rooms two luxurious apartments and one VIP apartment
State-of-the-art SPA centre with swimming pool jacuzzi fitness hall steam bath sauna
Turkish bath and massage room
Six conference rooms with capacity between seven and 250 people equipped with multimedia
and other presentational technique and tools Orfeida Restaurant with amazing interior and a capacity for up to 150 people plus a summer and a winter garden
Park for biking fishing boating jogging and other sports and activities
All dreams lead toPark Hotel Stara Zagora
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4365
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4465
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4565
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4665
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4765
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4865
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4965
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6565
where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 3965
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4065
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4165
82
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150 984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143Stara Zagora50 Han Asparuh St Zagorka lakephone 042 985 555 042 985 555
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4265
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150983123983156983137983154983137 983130983137983143983151983154983137
Липи прави улици и дружелюбна
атмосфера в един от най-интересните градове на България
текст Димитър Ивановфотография Антони Георгиев
by Dimitar Ivanovphotography by Anthony Georgieff
Lindens straight streets and
fiendly atmosphere in one o themost interesting cities o Bulgaria
984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143984097984130984112984128984112 984087984112984115984126984128984112
Когато се чудите накъде да тръгнете в първите топлидни на есента Стара Загора е едно от най-добрите ре-шения Отдалечен на 10486263983088 км по магистрала Тракияградът е изключително близо за онези които живеят вСофия и предлага много повече спокойствие и зелени-на от столицата дружелюбна атмосфера приятни заве-дения и исторически и природни забележителностикоито да запълнят кратката ви ваканция
Стара Загора е един от най-старите градове в ЕвропаПървите хора се заселили тук около VII-VI хилядоле-тие пр Хр Около IV впрХр на мястото на съвремен-на Стара Загора се появява град на траките известен с
When you are wondering where to go for the first warm days of the autumn Stara Zagora is one of the bestsolutions About 10486263983088 km on the Trakiya Motorway thecity is close enough for those living in Sofia and offersmore serenity and greenery than the capital The city hasalso nice cafeacutes and restaurants and enough historical andnature sites to fill a short holiday
Stara Zagora is one of the oldest cities in EuropeThe fist people settled in the area around the 983095-983094thmillennia BC Around the 983092th Century BC on the placeof modern Stara Zagora appeared a settlement of theThracians which was called Beroe It was conquered by
phone 042 985 555 042 985 555reservationshotelstarazagoraeu
wwwhotelstarazagoraeu
The fi ve-star Park Hotel Stara Zagora is situated on the bank of the romantic Zagorka Lake in Stara Zagora
Hotel with 31 luxurious rooms two luxurious apartments and one VIP apartment
State-of-the-art SPA centre with swimming pool jacuzzi fitness hall steam bath sauna
Turkish bath and massage room
Six conference rooms with capacity between seven and 250 people equipped with multimedia
and other presentational technique and tools Orfeida Restaurant with amazing interior and a capacity for up to 150 people plus a summer and a winter garden
Park for biking fishing boating jogging and other sports and activities
All dreams lead toPark Hotel Stara Zagora
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4365
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4465
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4565
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6565
where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4065
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4165
82
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150 984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143Stara Zagora50 Han Asparuh St Zagorka lakephone 042 985 555 042 985 555
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4265
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150983123983156983137983154983137 983130983137983143983151983154983137
Липи прави улици и дружелюбна
атмосфера в един от най-интересните градове на България
текст Димитър Ивановфотография Антони Георгиев
by Dimitar Ivanovphotography by Anthony Georgieff
Lindens straight streets and
fiendly atmosphere in one o themost interesting cities o Bulgaria
984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143984097984130984112984128984112 984087984112984115984126984128984112
Когато се чудите накъде да тръгнете в първите топлидни на есента Стара Загора е едно от най-добрите ре-шения Отдалечен на 10486263983088 км по магистрала Тракияградът е изключително близо за онези които живеят вСофия и предлага много повече спокойствие и зелени-на от столицата дружелюбна атмосфера приятни заве-дения и исторически и природни забележителностикоито да запълнят кратката ви ваканция
Стара Загора е един от най-старите градове в ЕвропаПървите хора се заселили тук около VII-VI хилядоле-тие пр Хр Около IV впрХр на мястото на съвремен-на Стара Загора се появява град на траките известен с
When you are wondering where to go for the first warm days of the autumn Stara Zagora is one of the bestsolutions About 10486263983088 km on the Trakiya Motorway thecity is close enough for those living in Sofia and offersmore serenity and greenery than the capital The city hasalso nice cafeacutes and restaurants and enough historical andnature sites to fill a short holiday
Stara Zagora is one of the oldest cities in EuropeThe fist people settled in the area around the 983095-983094thmillennia BC Around the 983092th Century BC on the placeof modern Stara Zagora appeared a settlement of theThracians which was called Beroe It was conquered by
phone 042 985 555 042 985 555reservationshotelstarazagoraeu
wwwhotelstarazagoraeu
The fi ve-star Park Hotel Stara Zagora is situated on the bank of the romantic Zagorka Lake in Stara Zagora
Hotel with 31 luxurious rooms two luxurious apartments and one VIP apartment
State-of-the-art SPA centre with swimming pool jacuzzi fitness hall steam bath sauna
Turkish bath and massage room
Six conference rooms with capacity between seven and 250 people equipped with multimedia
and other presentational technique and tools Orfeida Restaurant with amazing interior and a capacity for up to 150 people plus a summer and a winter garden
Park for biking fishing boating jogging and other sports and activities
All dreams lead toPark Hotel Stara Zagora
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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82
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150 984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143Stara Zagora50 Han Asparuh St Zagorka lakephone 042 985 555 042 985 555
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150983123983156983137983154983137 983130983137983143983151983154983137
Липи прави улици и дружелюбна
атмосфера в един от най-интересните градове на България
текст Димитър Ивановфотография Антони Георгиев
by Dimitar Ivanovphotography by Anthony Georgieff
Lindens straight streets and
fiendly atmosphere in one o themost interesting cities o Bulgaria
984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143984097984130984112984128984112 984087984112984115984126984128984112
Когато се чудите накъде да тръгнете в първите топлидни на есента Стара Загора е едно от най-добрите ре-шения Отдалечен на 10486263983088 км по магистрала Тракияградът е изключително близо за онези които живеят вСофия и предлага много повече спокойствие и зелени-на от столицата дружелюбна атмосфера приятни заве-дения и исторически и природни забележителностикоито да запълнят кратката ви ваканция
Стара Загора е един от най-старите градове в ЕвропаПървите хора се заселили тук около VII-VI хилядоле-тие пр Хр Около IV впрХр на мястото на съвремен-на Стара Загора се появява град на траките известен с
When you are wondering where to go for the first warm days of the autumn Stara Zagora is one of the bestsolutions About 10486263983088 km on the Trakiya Motorway thecity is close enough for those living in Sofia and offersmore serenity and greenery than the capital The city hasalso nice cafeacutes and restaurants and enough historical andnature sites to fill a short holiday
Stara Zagora is one of the oldest cities in EuropeThe fist people settled in the area around the 983095-983094thmillennia BC Around the 983092th Century BC on the placeof modern Stara Zagora appeared a settlement of theThracians which was called Beroe It was conquered by
phone 042 985 555 042 985 555reservationshotelstarazagoraeu
wwwhotelstarazagoraeu
The fi ve-star Park Hotel Stara Zagora is situated on the bank of the romantic Zagorka Lake in Stara Zagora
Hotel with 31 luxurious rooms two luxurious apartments and one VIP apartment
State-of-the-art SPA centre with swimming pool jacuzzi fitness hall steam bath sauna
Turkish bath and massage room
Six conference rooms with capacity between seven and 250 people equipped with multimedia
and other presentational technique and tools Orfeida Restaurant with amazing interior and a capacity for up to 150 people plus a summer and a winter garden
Park for biking fishing boating jogging and other sports and activities
All dreams lead toPark Hotel Stara Zagora
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6565
where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4265
983108983141983155983156983145983150983137983156983145983151983150983123983156983137983154983137 983130983137983143983151983154983137
Липи прави улици и дружелюбна
атмосфера в един от най-интересните градове на България
текст Димитър Ивановфотография Антони Георгиев
by Dimitar Ivanovphotography by Anthony Georgieff
Lindens straight streets and
fiendly atmosphere in one o themost interesting cities o Bulgaria
984084984117984129984130984120984125984112984134984120984143984097984130984112984128984112 984087984112984115984126984128984112
Когато се чудите накъде да тръгнете в първите топлидни на есента Стара Загора е едно от най-добрите ре-шения Отдалечен на 10486263983088 км по магистрала Тракияградът е изключително близо за онези които живеят вСофия и предлага много повече спокойствие и зелени-на от столицата дружелюбна атмосфера приятни заве-дения и исторически и природни забележителностикоито да запълнят кратката ви ваканция
Стара Загора е един от най-старите градове в ЕвропаПървите хора се заселили тук около VII-VI хилядоле-тие пр Хр Около IV впрХр на мястото на съвремен-на Стара Загора се появява град на траките известен с
When you are wondering where to go for the first warm days of the autumn Stara Zagora is one of the bestsolutions About 10486263983088 km on the Trakiya Motorway thecity is close enough for those living in Sofia and offersmore serenity and greenery than the capital The city hasalso nice cafeacutes and restaurants and enough historical andnature sites to fill a short holiday
Stara Zagora is one of the oldest cities in EuropeThe fist people settled in the area around the 983095-983094thmillennia BC Around the 983092th Century BC on the placeof modern Stara Zagora appeared a settlement of theThracians which was called Beroe It was conquered by
phone 042 985 555 042 985 555reservationshotelstarazagoraeu
wwwhotelstarazagoraeu
The fi ve-star Park Hotel Stara Zagora is situated on the bank of the romantic Zagorka Lake in Stara Zagora
Hotel with 31 luxurious rooms two luxurious apartments and one VIP apartment
State-of-the-art SPA centre with swimming pool jacuzzi fitness hall steam bath sauna
Turkish bath and massage room
Six conference rooms with capacity between seven and 250 people equipped with multimedia
and other presentational technique and tools Orfeida Restaurant with amazing interior and a capacity for up to 150 people plus a summer and a winter garden
Park for biking fishing boating jogging and other sports and activities
All dreams lead toPark Hotel Stara Zagora
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6565
where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4365
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6565
where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4465
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4565
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6565
where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6565
where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4665
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6565
where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4765
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6565
where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4865
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6565
where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 4965
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6465
128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6565
where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 5065
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 5165
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 5265
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 5365
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6165
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6565
where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6565
where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6565
where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 5365
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6565
where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 5465
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 5565
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6365
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6565
where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 5565
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6365
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6465
128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6565
where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 5665
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 5765
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6565
where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 5765
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 5865
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 5965
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6265
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6365
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6465
128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6565
where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 5865
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 5965
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6065
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
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892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6365
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6465
128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6565
where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 5965
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6065
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6165
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6265
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6365
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6465
128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6565
where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6065
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6165
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6265
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6365
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6465
128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6565
where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6165
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6265
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6365
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6465
128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6565
where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6265
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6365
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6465
128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6565
where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6365
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6465
128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6565
where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6465
128
983149983137983144983137983148983151983156983151983154983141983155983156983137983157983154983137983150983156
Sofia 983093983089 Vasil Levski Blvd phone 983088983096983096983095 983094983089983095 9830979830951048626mahalottogmailcom
For more than 983089983088 years this has beenwhere youget deliciousmeal alongwith
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6565
where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia
892019 VB95 96 Scaled
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvb95-96-scaled 6565
where you get delicious meal along withthe quiet atmosphere to help you winddown after a busy day in the centre of
Sofia The restaurant menu includesfavourites such as pepper steak Cafeacute deParis veal and trout with walnuts to suit your palate Complete the experience with a selection from the wine list ndash Oldand New World both with a scatteringof Bulgarias best Mahaloto is a suitable place for business lunch or dinner and you can offer your guests the taste ofBulgarian cuisine as well The free wifiand dreamy atmosphere will hook you upfor hours of lounging here
Varna 983089983088 Slivnitsa Blvd phone 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983088 fax 9830889830931048626 983094983096983092 983088983094983089 wwwhotelplazabgcom
983155983151983142983145983137 983144983151983156983141983148 983138983137983148983147983137983150983137 983148983157983160983157983154983161 983139983151983148983148983141983139983156983145983151983150 983144983151983156983141983148
983152983148983137983162983137983144983151983156983141983148
When it comes to location service and history Sofia Hotel Balkan is not only in the very heart of the city but the building itself is part of the architectural heritage of thecapital The hotel combines timeless grace and modern convenience and is preferredfor the lavishing guest rooms and exquisite event halls This summer Sofia HotelBalkan will take exclusive care for its corporate guests Until 983089983093 September they canenjoy free transfer free upgrade (upon availability) and free access to the ExecutiveLounge And this is only the beginning of the journey that is Sofia Hotel Balkan
To make the most of Varna go for the centre ndash and the Plaza Hotel Right in frontof the Sea Garden the exclusive accommodation is packed with features such asluxurious leather furniture bathtub air-conditioning and free Wi-Fi The helpfulstaff will take on whatever you need done so that you can relax and soak up theambience of Varna The location in the heart of the city is perfect just steps away fromthe beach and with a great range establishments nearby
Sofia 983093 Sveta Nedelya Sq phone 9830881048626 983097983096983089 983094983093983092983089
wwwtheluxurycollectioncomsofia