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8/10/2019 Vehculos Pesados para hacer en madera
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Vehculos de la onstruccin
Maquinaria Pesada
Varios modelos para hacer en madera
8/10/2019 Vehculos Pesados para hacer en madera
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WOOD magazine September 2056
Overall dimensions: 838" wide 1314" long 7116" high
Blade width: 734"Ground clearance: 14"Track gauge: 412"Power transmission: ManualFueled by imagination
PROJECT HIGHLIGHTS
Construction-Grade
BulldozerClear the way t
every kids dreamof operating heav
machinery
For simply pushing blocks around aplayroom, or gathering compli-ments about your woodworking,
this dozer gets the job done. As it lum-bers across the job site, its operator canlift and lower the blade just like on thereal thing. This third project in ourConstruction-Grade series works right
alongside the excavator (issue 194,November 2009) and the crane (issue185, September 2008) [photo,page 61].
Build the undercarriage
1From 112"-thick walnut (or laminated
34" walnut), cut a 317" blank. Fromthis blank, cut the chassis (A) to size
[Materials List], and set the rest aside. Othe chassis, lay out the 1132" holes athe chamfers [Drawing 1a]. Drill tholes at the drill press. Bandsaw juoutside the chamfer lines, then sand the lines.
2Make a copy of the Radiator Pattefrom the WOOD Patterns inse
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WOOD magazine September 2058
CLAMPING TO A CHAMFERED END THE UNDERCARRIAGE TAKES SHAPE
220 grit, then glue a blade-arm mount(C) to each wheel spacer with their endsand back faces flush [Drawing 2]. Afterthe glue dries, glue these assemblies(C/D) to the chassis (A) centered on itslength [Drawing 1a].
5From34" walnut, cut two sides (E).
Make a copy of the Side Pattern,spray-adhere it to a blank, then drill thehole and bandsaw and sand the sides to
shape. Separate the sides, sand them to220 grit, then glue and clamp the sidesto the chassis assembly (AD) [Photo B].
Add the body
1Cut two3433" maple blanks and a
1433" walnut blank. Laminate thewalnut between the maple pieces withthe edges flush. After the glue dries,make a copy of the Hood Pattern, and
A
Clamp the chassis (A) to your bench to prevent it from tipping. Clampthe radiator (B) to the chassis.
1" axle peg
A
" chamfers
8"
3"
2" tandem wheel
" hole 1" deep
2" axle peg
1" single wheel
2"
" washer
" washer
C
D
"
"
D
"
1" 1""
"
" holes
4"
" radius
B
Glue the sides (E) against the back face of the radiator (B) and flush tthe outside edges of the chassis (A).
spray-adhere it to the blank. Bandsa
and sand the hood to shape, and drthe hole for the smokestack [Drawing Sand the hood to 220 grit, then rout116" chamfer on the top front and twvertical edges. Glue the hood to the tof the sides (E) tight to the radiator (B
2Bandsaw and sand the cab riser (Gback (H), and cab platform (I) shape [Drawing 1]. The back should snugly between the sides (E). For the c(J), retrieve the cutoff blank from earland spray-adhere a copy of the Cab Pternto it. Bandsaw and sand the cab shape. Then drill the hole where show
and chamfer both faces.
3Cut a 345122" blank for the csides (K). Rout a 38" chamfer on ea
end, then crosscut the cab sides to widtBandsaw and sand the roof (L) to shapand chamfer its bottom edges [Drawi1]. Cut a 38784" blank for the roll ba(M) and rout 116" chamfers along boedges of one face. From this blank, cthe roll bars to fit between the cab sidand the top of the cab. Sand the csides, roof, and roll bars to 220 grit.
4Quick Tip!Five-minute clamtime.As you glue parts G throu
M in place, clamp parts for just five miutes. The glue develops enough grathat the part wont move as you work othe next piece. Glue and clamp the criser (G) to the sides (E), tight to the reof the hood (F) [Drawing 1]. Next, glthe back (H) between the sides anagainst the cab riser. Glue and clamp tcab platform (I) to the riser, centered its width and snug against the hooGlue the cab (J) to the platform, centeron its width and against the hood. Th
CHASSIS ASSEMBLY2
WHEEL SPACER SIDE VIEW2a
A
Frontedgesflush
BB
E
E
A
C
D
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woodmagazine com
glue and clamp the cab sides (K) to the
cab platform [Photo C]. Align their endswith the chamfers on the cab [Drawing4]. Glue the roll bars (M) to the cab, cen-tered on the cab sides length, then addthe roof (L) centered on the cabs top.
Get on track
1Cut a1211213" walnut blank. Make
two copies of the Top Track Patternand Back Track Patternand spray-adherethem along one edge of the blank. Band-saw and sand the tracks (N, O) to shapeand sand them to 220 grit.
2Temporarily install the dual wheels
and axle pegs [Source] on one side ofthe undercarriage/body (AM). Use thewheels as reference points to positionand glue the tracks in place [Photo D].Let the glue dry for 30 minutes, thenrepeat the process for the opposite side.
Switch to the blade
1Cut the blade back (P) to size and setit aside. Cut blanks for the blade top(Q) and blade ends (R) [Drawing 3]. Spray-adhere the patterns to the blade endsand blade top, then stack-cut and sandthe blade ends to shape. Note:Do not cutthe chamfers on the ends of the blade topyet. Drill the holes in the blade top andblade ends where indicated. On theblade top, rout 116" chamfers on both topedges, the bottom front edge, and aroundthe holes. Remove the patterns from thepieces and sand them to 220 grit.
2Bevel-rip the edge of a34"-thick blank
for the blade bottom (S), then rip thepiece to finished width [Drawing 3a].Rout a 116" chamfer on the rear edge andsand the blade bottom to 220 grit.
CONNECT THE CAB PARTS
C
Glue the cab sides (K) to the cab platform (I)only, not to the cab (J). Spring clamps fit thetight space.
3Apply glue to the top and bottomedges of the blade back (P) and clampthe top (Q) and bottom (S) to it withtheir rear faces flush. After the glue dries,glue the blade ends (R) to this assembly[Photo E]. Let the glue dry, then bandsawthe ends of the assembly [Photo F].
4Plane a 413" maple blank to12"
thick. Rip two 78"-wide strips from itfor the blade arms (T) and brackets (U).
TRACKING TRUE
D
Bridge two wheels with a straightedge toposition the upper face of the tracks (N, O).Hold them in place for a couple of minutes.
Crosscut a bracket from each strip, rip the remaining strips to 34" widthe arms. Plane the original blank tand rip two 58"-wide blanks for the(V) and braces (W). Plane the blan14" and cut blanks from it for the bpivots (X). Make a copy of the patfor parts TX and spray-adhere themthe appropriate blanks. Cut and the parts to shape, drill holes w
7"
" hole
" hole
" chamfer
U
R
"
"
"
P
2"
Q
" hole
S
R
"
"
" chamfers
Cut chamfers after assembly.
U
"
S
" chamfer
1"
45
"
BLADE3
BLADE BOTTOMEND VIEW
3a
J
K
F
E
I
GN
O
GLUE ON THE SIDES
E
Clamp the blade assembly (P/Q/S) to youbench, then glue and clamp the blade en(R) to it, flush at the back.
P
R
R
S
Q
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WOOD magazine September 2060
indicated, then sand the parts to 220grit. Rout 116" chamfers on the arm andlift where indicated on the patterns.
5Hacksaw lengths of threaded rod forthe blade assembly [Drawing 4;ShopTip, above right]. Join each blade pivot (X)to a lift (V) with a 118"-long section ofthreaded rod and two acorn nuts, mak-ing a mirrored pair of assemblies. Fastenthese assemblies to the radiator (B)[Photo G].
6Join each blade brace (W) to a bracket(U) with a 114" length of threaded
A SPACER LEVELS THE BLADE
F
Level the blade assembly (PS) with a scrapspacer before bandsawing the chamfer oneach end. Sand the chamfers smooth.
rod and acorn nuts, again making mir-rored assemblies. Use 118" axle pegs totemporarily fasten the arms (T) to theblade-arm mounts (C) [Drawing 4]. Slidea rubber band up each arm [Photo H]before fastening the blade (PS) to thearm with a threaded rod and acorn nuts.Put a dab of glue on each brace andbracket and glue them in place with thebracket just below the hole in the bladetop (Q) [Photo H]. Allow the glue to dry.
7Remove the blade parts (PX) fromthe body (AO) and discard the rub-
ber bands. Attach the pivot and lassembly (X/V) to the blade assemb
using a 758" length of threaded rod, fonuts [Photo I], and two acorn nuts. Retach the arms (T) to the blade-armounts (C) and test the fit and opetion of the blade.
Finish it up
1Remove the blade assembly (Pand disassemble the parts joinwith threaded rod. Remove the duwheels. Tape off the stems of the axpegs and the bottom 516" of the smokstack, then apply a finish to all piec(We sprayed on three coats of polyuthane, sanding lightly between coawith 320-grit sandpaper.)
2After the finish dries, remove ttape from the smokestack and axpegs and glue the smokestack into thood (F). Place an axle peg through eawheel and a washer [Drawings 1, 2]. Glthe pegs to the wheel spacers (D), chas(A), and sides (E).
3Reassemble the blade assembly usiblue thread lock on the acorn nuInsert axle pegs through the arms (
Go nuts for clean threadsCutting threaded rod with a hacksawleaves burrs that prevent nuts fromthreading on. To restore damagedthreads, position a nut on each side othe blade before making the cut.Removing the nuts cleans up the burr
SHOP TIP
FASTEN THE PIVOTS IN PLACE
G
Feed a 414"-long threaded rod through ablade pivot (X), then through the radiator (B).Then place the opposite pivot on the rod.
J
T
U
1" axle peg
B
10-32 threaded rod1" long
10-32
threaded rod1" long
10-32threaded rod
1" long
10-32 threaded rod" long
10-32threaded rod
4" long
10-32threaded rod
7" long
10-32 acorn nuts
10-32hex nuts
10-32 acorn nut
10-32acorn nuts
V
U
W
X
C
K
BLADE ASSEMBLY(Left arm assembly not shown for clarity)
4
B
1"
"Spacer
Threadedrod
V X
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Cutting Diagram
Materials ListFINISHED SIZE
Part T W L Matl
Undercarriage
A* chassis 112" 3" 878" W
B* radiator 112" 3" 338" W
C* blade-arm
mounts34" 158" 414" M
D wheel spacers 34" 78" 414" M
E sides 34" 158" 718" W
Body
F* hood 134" 278" 234" W/M
G cab riser 34" 3" 338" M
H back 34" 112" 238" W
I cab platform 14" 412" 334" W
J* cab 112" 214" 312" W
K* cab sides 34" 114" 2" M
L cab roof 38" 234" 312" M
M* roll bars 38" 78" 112" M
Tracks
N* back tracks 12" 112" 114" W
O* top tracks 12" 112" 458" W
Blade
P blade back 14" 258" 714" W
Q blade top 38" 118" 714" M
R blade ends 14" 214" 418" W
S* blade bottom 34" 1" 714" W
T* arms 12" 34" 938" M
U* brackets 12" 78" 112" M
V* lifts 38" 58" 6" M
W* braces 38" 58" 414" M
X* blade pivots 14" 12" 212" M
*Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions.
Materials key:Wwalnut, Mmaple.Supplies:Double-faced tape, spray adhesive,blue thread lock.Bits:45 chamfer bit; 316",732",14",1132",12", 1" drill bi
SourceWood/hardware kit:Contains the following wparts and hardware: 2" tandem wheels (6), 238" axle (6), 1" single wheels (8), 118" axle pegs (10),58112" smstack (1), 10-3212" threaded rod (2), 10-32 acorn nu10-32 hex nuts (4), 14" washers (8), 38" washers (6). Kit4043, $19.95 plus shipping, Meisel Hardware Specia800-441-9870, meiselwoodhobby.com.
and insert the pegs into the blade-armmounts (C) (dont use glue). Insert 78"lengths of threaded rod through theback of the arms, apply thread lock, and
tighten the acorn nuts just enough thatthe blade lifts and lowers, but stays at aset position. Now find a driver willing tosee if youve made the grade.
B B
E E
F
H
IJJ
N
O
P
R
AAS
* O*
*
***
*R*
x 5 x 60" Walnut (2.5 bd. ft.) *Plane or resaw to the thicknesses listed in the Materials List.
GLUE THE BRACE AND BRACKET
H
With the blade (PS) flat on the bench andsecured to the arm (T), glue the brace (W) andbracket (U). Clamp with a rubber band.
DONT FORGET THE NUTS
I
Thread on a nut as the rod passes throughthe arm (T). Thread two more after the firstlift (V) and the fourth after the second lift.
All three pieces in ourConstruction-Gradeseries work hard. The crane,left(issue 185, September2008), lifts and lowers itsbucket and spins, and theexcavator,below(issue 194,November 2009), has anarticulated boom for reachingand scooping. Downloadthe plans for a small fee atwoodmagazine.com/plans.Type crane in the search boxto find both plans.
FF G
X V W
L*
**
* **
Q*
C
D
K
x 5 x 36" Maple (1.5 bd. ft.)
M*
T U
W
T
P
R
Q
U
T
T
S
V
Produced by Craig RuegseggerwithJeff M
Project design:Jeff Mertz
Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna John
Rubber band
http://woodmagazine.com/http://meiselwoodhobby.com/http://woodmagazine.com/planshttp://woodmagazine.com/planshttp://woodmagazine.com/http://meiselwoodhobby.com/http://woodmagazine.com/plans8/10/2019 Vehculos Pesados para hacer en madera
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B
efore your favorite youngster gets bogged
down
in
video games, give a gift
that
lets his imagina
tion
do
the lifting this
sturdy wooden crane.
uild the
m st
and oom
For the mast sides
B)
and mast spacers (C), cut two
x l ~ x 2 6
blanks (We used maple).
u t one
mast
side
and one
spacer from each blank. Chuck a
1
Forst
ner
bit into your drill press
and
drill five holes
in the
mast sides
[Drawing 2 Photo B]
2
TO
assemble
the
mast,
cut
two x214x24 cauls
from scrap. (We usedMDF.) Cover one side of each
caul with masking tape to keep glue from sticking.
Apply tape
to one
side of each mast B)
to mark the
mast spacer (C) locations [Drawing 2] (The thickness of
the
tape provides just enough of a lip
to
keep
the
spac
ers from shifting and makes it easy
to
remove
excess glue.) Glue
and
clamp
the
mast
[PhotosC
and 0].
Mark
the 6 boom
pivot
hole center
on
one mast
side B)
[Drawing 2]
Chuck a
brad-point bit into your drill
'press, insert a -thick scrap
block between
the
mast sides
to
pre-
vent chip-out, and drill the hole.
4
Form
the
mast (B/C)
top
bevel
[Drawing 2 Photo E], and
sand it
smooth. Sand Va round-overs
on the top
corners of the mast
sides B) and upper mast spacer
(C). Chuck a chamfer bit into
your table-mounted router, and
rout
Y 6
chamfers along
the
edges of
Junior operating engineers will enjoy
doing
the
heavy lifting
with
this fully
operational construction
toy
Make the chassis
For
the
chassis A), cab (G),
and
counterweight (H),
cut
a
lYzx6 4xI2
blank. We used walnut .) Rip a
lYz -wide
piece from
one
edge,
and
set it aside for
the
cab and counterweight. ut the remainingpiece
to
size
for
the
chassis
[Materials List page 7 ]
2
Lay
out the chassis A) front and rear bevels
[Drawing
1], and bandsaw and sand them to shape.Then chuck
an
hz brad-point bit into your drill press, position the
fence W' from the bit center,
and
drill axle holes
in both
sides of the chassis
[Photo
A]. Finish-sand the part.
~ ~ n t r a c t o r
rade
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PROJ T
I LI TS
Apply glue
and
position the mast spa
on one
mast side (6). Apply glue
and
second mast side.
width of
the
mast (B/C) and th
sides (I). Rout a chamfer along
front edge [Drawing ] Drill shan
for fastening
the
hoist base
to th
sides (B). (For the 8 screws, d
shank
holes
and 64
pilot holes.
3
Clamp
the
hoist sides I to th
base
m
[Drawing ] Dril
With the glue dry, remove the clamp
cauls, mark the bevel
at
the
top of th
and
bandsaw it to shape.
Layout the axle hole centers
on the
c
(A).
Clamp
the
chassis
to the
drill-pre
at
each location,
and drilllW -deep
h
Clamp
the
parts
between the
cauls,
and then
clamp vertically. Keep the mast sides
(6) and
lower mast spacer
(C)
flush
atthe
bottom.
Join
the
two mast sides
(6)
with double-faced
tape, mark
the 1
hole centers,
and
drill
through
both
parts.
Fabricate th
hoist
1
From
Y2 -thick
stock, cut
the
hoist
sides (I) to size. Adhere them face-to
face with double-faced tape. Mark hole
centers [Drawing Sa], and drill the holes
on your drill press with a l 4 brad-point
bit. Layout the angled corner. Bandsaw
and sand it
to
shape. Sand round-overs
on
the corners at
both
ends of the angle.
Separate
and
finish-sand
the
parts.
2
Cut the
hoist base
mto
size, making
sure the width equals the combined
the counterweight to
the boom
(D/E/F),
Y2 from the end
and
centered.
Overall
dimensions: 25
high
x13Ya
reach x
7.
track xll Va
wheelbase.
Hand-operated
hoists
raise and
lo '{er
the
boom
and bucket.
The
tower
assembly
pivots smoothly
on
a ball-bearing lazy
Susan to
easily pick
up
and
place loads.
Awide-track
chassis
featuring eight
sets
of
dual wheels provides
sure-footed
mobility.
You provide
the
flat stock and
a few
wood screws. We provide
a one-stop
source
for the remaining hardware and
special
fittings.
Skill uilder
Discover how to hold rounded items steady
for
drilling on your drill press.
dd cab and
ount rw ight
1
Retrieve the walnut cab
(G)
and
counterweight H blank. Mark the
hole center
near one
end [Drawing la].
Chuck a I Forstner bit
into
your drill
press,
and
drill the hole.
Then
bandsaw
and sand the
Va
angled corner. Crosscut
the cab from the blank. Now rout lIJ 6
chamfers along the edges of the hole
and
Va
chamfers along
the
outside edges
of the cab. Finish-sand the cab.
2
TO position the cab (G) on the mast
(B/C), first insert
the boom
between
the mast sides (B),
and
slide a piece of
10-32 threaded rod through the holes
in both assemblies.
Then
glue and clamp
the
cab
to
the mast sides (B) [Drawing 1
and Photo G] Remove the boom from
the mast.
3
From the
remaining
walnut blank,
cut
the counterweight H
to
size.
Rout chamfers on the edges [Drawing 1],
and finish-sand it. Now glue and clamp
the
I
holes
and the
outside edges of the
mast, except for the bottom. Finish-sand
the mast.
5
From a
%xl%x22
piece of stock,
resaw and plane a 14 -thick
blank
for
the front spacer (D) and rear spacer (E).
(We used walnut.)
Cut
the parts
to
length. Bandsaw and sand the chamfer
on the front spacer and the taper
on
the
rear spacer [Drawing 3].
6
From a
x l
Vax Y
piece of stock,
resaw and plane the two boom sides
(F).
(We used maple.) Glue
and
clamp
the boom spacers
(D, E) between
the
boom sides [Drawing 4 and Photo
F].
7
With the glue dry, use your drill
press
to
drill a %2 hole through the
rear spacer (E) for the boom-operating
str ing, a 0/] 6 hole for the boom pivot,
and another
0/] 6
hole at the front end of
th e boom [Drawing 4]. When drilling
the front hole, insert a W-thick piece of
scrap
between the boom
sides (F)
to
pre
vent
chip-out. Then mark the two
tapered cuts, and bandsaw and
sand
them
to
shape. Sand W radii
on the
boom ends. Now rout
lIJ 6
chamfers
along the edges. Finish-sand the boom.
8/10/2019 Vehculos Pesados para hacer en madera
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As
with the
mast,
cu t 3/
4
x%x24 cauls,
applying masking tape,
to
align
the
spacers
(0 , E)
between the
boom sides (F)
fo r
gluing.
Sparingly
apply glue
to
the
cab (G),
position
it against
the
boom (D/E/F),
centered
on
the
mast
(B/C), and clamp
the
cab in place.
Using
the
holes in
the
hoist side (I) as guid
drill
3/
16
holes fo r
the
threaded rod throu
the
mast (B/C)
with
a
brad-point bit.
'is
hole
-- --n,
; r
1/1S chamfers
routed
after
assembly
, }
~
~
b
,
, \
~
I
J
1
holes,
and
drive
the
screws. (For
screws, drill 4
shank
holes
and
pilot holes.) Clamp
the
mast (B
between
the
hoist sides. Using
the
sc
holes
in
the
hoist base
as
guides, d
pilot holes
into
the
mast sides
(B),
String 24 long
)
.....o-- -1O-32 cap nut
.....
6 x 1 2
e
panhead screw
l
, r s - 3 ~ ~ 1 1 f 2
4 ~ - - - - - -
\ j 1/1S
chamfer
f i::::::::::=T'l on al l edges
,
~
\:.1f2
1
G
_
10-32 threaded rod
25/a
long
...
- _ ~
0\
10-32 cap nut
41f2
%
' -:J.l,,2\(2' ' 11
~ @
S w a S h e r ~ ~
6) )
@ ~
2x11f2
&
, 'em
wheel
@
~
10-32 cap nut @
@ ~
10-32 threaded rod
35/a long
8 x 2 F.H. wood
s r w ~
i
3' lazy Susan,
1
centered
~ - - -
1
0-32 threaded rod
iIto
0 11/8
long
' ---#10-32
cap nut
Snap hook
/
XPLO
VI W
I ICABDETAIL
1/8 chamfer
1
1f2 ----j
l
4'
~ u
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SHOP TIP
ow
to s fely hold rounded
objects for drilling
Enlarging the screw holes in the wood
knobs for
the
hoist assembly presents
two challenges: holding a part with a
domed surface steady on the drill-press
table, and keeping
it
from spinning
as the drill bit bites into the surface.
Here's an easy way to overcome both.
Drill a
hole
4
deep in a piece of
-thick scrap. Place a1Y2x1 W' piece
of double-faced
tape
over the hole, as
shown at
right
Center the knob over
the hole, and press down firmly. Now
support the scrap with the drill-press
fence, centering the bit on
the
knob
screw hole, and drill, as shown at
f r right
This method also works for
drilling into wood balls.
drive
the
screws. Now,
on
your drill
press, drill
0/1 6
holes through the mast
[Photo
H].
4
With
themast/hoist assembly upside
down, position the lazy Susan
on
the hoist base
G)
equidistant from the
front and side edges. Drill pilot holes,
and drive
the
screws [Drawing 1]. Then
position the mast/hoist assembly
on
the
chassis (A), and mark the lazy Susan
screw-hole locations [Photo I] Now
remove the mast/hoist assembly, and
drill
the
holes.
5
uttwo 4 -long pieces of 4 dowel,
and glue a spool onto each piece,
centered
on the length
[Drawing 5].
With the
glue dry, dri ll a 2 hole, cen
tered, through each spool
and
dowel.
6
Enlarge the screw holes in four 114 -
diameter wood knobs to
14
drilling
them
deep.
To
hold
the
knobs
on the
drill press, see the Shop Tip bove
pply finish nd ssemble
1
Remove the lazy Susan, mast (B/C),
and
hoist sides
(I)
from
the
hoist
base
G).
Examine all parts and assem
blies, and finish-sand where needed.
Slide
the
wheels
and
bucket onto a W'
dowel, and support it a t the ends with
x
scraps. To hold the axles and keep
finish off the ends for gluing, drill eight
holes
into
a
x
scrap and insert the
axles. Drill six
W
holes at least
2
apart
into another
scrap block. Insert short
pieces of
JA
dowel
into
four of
the
holes,
Center the
lazy
Susan on
the chassis
(A
rotate the mast/hoist assembly to unco
the mounting holes, and mark the loca
@ .
i d B . ~ . ~ . , . , . . ; , : . . ~ , ... ;:' _
~ ~ _ - - - - - - - - - 1 6 3 / 8
3/(.47--
t
BOOM SPACERS
I
V ( U - - 4 3 4 ~
r ~ ~
rim after assembly 1W'
BOOM
ASSEM
Parts trimmed
7after assembly
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Materials List
FINISHED SIZE
Part T W L MatI.
~
~
1W' wood kno
W' dowel 4 long
1
Va X 7 a
spool
1/4
washer
3/32
hole
10-32 cap nut
a x .78 compression spring
A*
chassis lVz
4Vz
11
w
B*
mast sides
lVz
22 M
C*
mast spacers
% 1
1
12
3
M
D*
front spacer
1%
16%
w
E*
rear spacer 4
1%
4% w
F boom sides
%
1%
22Vz M
G*
cab
lVz 1112
2%
w
H* counterweight
2
3
w
hoist sides Vz
2% 4%
W
hoist base
3%
6V.
w
Parts initially cut oversize. See the
instructions.
HOIST
Location of tower
1
Shank hole countersunk on bottom faCe)
6x 1V4 F.H.
wood screw
~ ~ W wood knob
~ I V4
hole 3 a deep
10-32 cap nut
G
\ 1 \ J V. washers
-@
0 @
'ih
.\.
.
~ ~
.
1{2
10-32 threaded rod
3
5
/a long
4
chamfer ~
~
f\
31/4
excess cord onto
the
spool
by turning
the knobs.
7
Cut a nil-long piece ofstring,
thread
it
through the
hole
in the
front
spool, and tie it off. Then route
the
cord
t hrough the space between the front
spacer
(D) and
rear spacer
(E),
over
the
top of
the
upper mast spacer (C),
and
between
the
front spacer
and the
front
threaded rod. Tie the snap hook onto
the end
of
the
string,
and wind the
excess
onto the
spool. Finally, clip
the
bucket bail onto
the
hook, slip
on
your
hard hat, and start up your engines
and
your imagination
mHOISTSI E
and
press a knob
onto the end
of each
one. Wrap masking tape around one
end
of each spool dowel, and insert the other
end
into one of
the
remaining holes.
Apply a clear finish to all
the
parts
and
assemblies. (We applied four coats of
aerosol satin lacquer, sanding between
coats
with
320-grit sandpaper.
To
smooth
the
wheels between coats, use a soft brass
wire brush.)
2
Slide a wheel and washer onto each
axle. Glue
the
axles into
the
chassis
(A)
holes, inserting business cards
between the wheels
and
washers to
ensure free spinning.
3
Screw one hoist side
(I)
to
the
hoist
base 0
[ rawing
5]. Slip a washer,
spring,
and
another washer
onto
each
spool dowel, and insert the dowels into
the
hoist side holes. Slip
another
washer,
spring,
and
washer over each dowel,
and
fasten
the
second hoist side
in
place,
capturing the spool dowels within the
hoist side holes. Add a washer to each
dowel protruding from
the
hoist sides,
and
glue
the
knobs onto
the
dowels.
4
Screw
the
mast (B/C) to the hoist
base. Cut two 3W'-long pieces of
10-32 threaded rod
(%
longer
than the
total thickness of
the
assembly),
and
slide
them
through the hoist sides (I)
and mast
[ rawing
5]. Apply medium
strength thread locker to
the
rod ends,
and
thread
on
cap nuts. Screw
the
lazy
Susan to the hoist base 0 , and
then
to
the
chassis
(A).
5
Cut
one 2% -long
and one
ll;8 -long
pieceofthreaded rod. Slide
theboom
(D/E/F/H) between
the
mast sides (B).
Slide
the
long rod t hrough the pivot
holes
[ rawing
1].
Apply thread locker
and
cap nuts. Slide
the
short rod
through
the holes at the front end of
the
boom,
and
apply thread locker and cap nuts.
6
Cut a 24 -long piece of string
and
tie
a
knot in
one end. Thread it from
the
top through
the
hole
in the
rear
spacer (E), through the hole in the rear
spool,
and then
tie it off. Wind
the
4 X 3
1
/2
X 60 Maple (1.7 bd.
ft.)
'Plane or resaw to the thicknesses listed
in
the Materials List.
1V2 X 7V. x 12 Walnut (1.3 bd. ft.)
a : :Jmt:::':::::::::::n* ::::j
ource
Hardware kit: Each kit
includes the
following pa
tandem
wheels
(8), tandem wheel axles (8), Is flat
washers (8),
3
lazy Susan, 10-32x12 threaded ro
10-32 cap
nuts (8),
snap hook,
wood
bucket,
lV.
knobs
(4),
l x
'/.
spools (2), V4x9y wood dowe
. flat washers (12), ,/. x .78
compression springs
black nylon string (14 ft.). Order kit
no. 3122, $24.9
plus shipping. Meisel Hardware Specialties,
~ 0 0 4 4 1 9 8 7 0
meiselwoodhobby.com.
Materials key:
W-walnut, M-maple.
Supplies:
8x2 and
6xlV4'
flathead
wood screw
6x
W panhead
screws, double-faced
tape.
Bits:
45 chamfer
router bit;
3/
16
, W , and 11hz brad
drill
bits; 1 Forstner
bit.
Written
by
an vec
Project design: Jeff Mertz
Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine Lorna Johnson
J
D
3f4
5V2
Cutting Diagram
G H
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32 WOOD magazineNovember 2
When its time to fill up a toydump truck, heres the rightmachine for the job. With a
pivoting body for tight turns, and abucket that lifts and dumps, this rig
End Loader
Construction-grade
Dimensions: 7"H534"W1
works much like the real thing. Craftedfrom walnut and maple, it matches ourother Construction-grade toys (pages3435). A kit provides all the specialtyparts you need [Source,page 36].
Shape parts for the rear unit
1Make two photocopies ofpage38aone photocopy ofpages 37 and39
the WOOD Patterns insert. Prepare34512634" walnut blank for the re
A
SUPPORT THE REAR CHASSIS
To position the chassis (A) for drilling the axlehole, rest it on a scrap at least 112" thick. Clamp thechassis to the fence to prevent it from turning.
B
CREATE A GRILL
Make a pass with each edge against the rip fence tocut the two outermost kerfs. Reposition the fencefor the next pair of kerfs and repeat.
C
CLAMP THE CAB AND DRILL
A handscrew provides a secure grip on the cab (Ewhile drilling the 1" hole for the window. Back outhe bit frequently to clear the chips.
A
B
E
Scrap
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woodmagazine.com
chassis (A). Spray-adhere a copy of theRear Chassis Pattern to the blank, andbandsaw and sand the chassis to shape.
2Drill the1132" hole where indicated
[Photo A]. Then drill the316" through-hole where shown.
3Laminate four layers of 34234412"maple for the hood (B) [Drawing 1].
After the glue dries, trim the blank to
size [Materials List], and attach copies ofthe Hood Side-View and Hood Top-ViewPatterns. Following the top-view pat-tern, cut the kerfs for the radiator grill[Photo B]. Then drill the 14" hole whereshown and bandsaw the bevel followingthe side-view pattern. Chamfer theedges where shown.
4Laminate two pieces of3423" wal-
nut for the steps (C). Resaw and sandthe blank to 138" thick; then, cut thedadoes for the steps [Drawing 1a]. From34"-thick maple, lay out and cut the cabsupport (D) to size [Drawing 1].
5From a laminated walnut blank, cutthe cab (E) to size, and attach a copy
of the Cab Side-View Pattern to it. Drillthe hole for the window [Photo C]; then,chamfer the edges of the window, andcut the bevel along the front of the cab.
6Cut the maple roof (F) to size [Draw-ing 1], and chamfer the front edge.
B
E
F
AD
J
C
x 1" smokestack
" ax2" l
2" wheels
" round-overs
" hole
" washer
" hole" deep
" chamfer
2"
1"
2""
2"
1" hole
1"
"
"
1"
1" 2"
3"
" hole
1"
"
"
"
"
""
"
2"
3"
C
7Retrieve all of the parts cut to shapeso far, moisten the patterns withmineral spirits, and scrape them away.Finish-sand all parts to 220 grit.
Load up for assemblyAssemble the rear unit of the loadshown in Photos DHbelow. Allow theto dry at least 20 minutes between ste
F
ATTACH THE STEPS TO THE HOOD
Apply glue to the rear face and bottom of the steps(C) keeping it at least 14" from the ends. Then centerand clamp the steps to the chassis and hood.
D
GLUE THE HOOD IN PLACE FIRST
Apply glue to the bottom of the hood (B) andclamp it to the rear chassis (A), flush with the edgesand set back 516" from the wide end of the chassis.
G
ADD THE CAB
Glue and clamp the cab (E) to the hood (B), steps(C), and cab support (D), centering the cab on thewidth of the hood.
E
MAKE A PLATFORM FOR THE CAB
While the hood assembly dries, glue and clamcab support (D) flush with the top edge of the(C), and centered between the ends.
H
TOP IT WITH THE ROOF
Clamp the chamfered face of the roof (F) to the(E), centered from side to side and front to bacwith the chamfer facing down and forward.
B
A
DC
B
A
D
B
E E
C C
D
F
REAR UNIT ASSEMBLY1
STEPS Front view1a
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Shape parts for the front unit
1Cut the front chassis (G) and pivotblock (H) to size [Drawings 2, 2a].
Drill the 316" hole in the pivot block and
the 1132" hole in the chassis whereshown. Then rout the chamfer on theend of the pivot block.
2From14" maple, cut two 212234"
blanks for the arm braces (I). Stackthe blanks together with double-faced
tape between them, and their ends andedges flush. Attach the Arm Braces Pat-tern to the stack and drill the 316" holewhere shown. Then, cut the braces toshape [Photo I] and finish-sand them.
J
BUILD UP THE FRONT END
Glue the arm brace/pivot block assembly (H/I) tothe front chassis (G), clamping the parts to yourbench while the glue dries.
I
CUT IDENTICAL PARTS THE EASY WA
By cutting both arm braces (I) at the same time, yguarantee they will be identical. Do the same latewith the bucket sides (M) and arms (P).
3Glue the arm braces (I) to the edgof the pivot block (H), with thfront ends and bottom faces flush. Afthe glue dries, glue this assembly to tfront chassis (G) [Photo J].
4Laminate maple stock to make
11211212" blank. Spray-adhetwo copies each of the Rear FenderaFront Fender Patterns along one face the blank. Bandsaw and sand the feners (J, K) to shape. Remove the patter
I
P
A
K
I
" hole
1"
"
2"
2"
1"
H
G"
"
K
" chamfer
" axle peg2" long
2" wheels
" washer
10-32 lock nut
10-32 lock nut
10-32threaded rod
1" long
10-32threaded rod
1" long
" hole
"hole2"
4"
"H
"
"
"
WOOD magazineNovember 234
Build the whole crew
Give the crane
(issue 185,September2008) a spin onits base, andraise andlower itsbucket witha crank.
Purchase plans and kits for these companion projects atwoodmagazine.com/cgtoys .
Reach out and scoop withthe excavator (issue 194,
November 2009).
Move earth with the bulldozer (issue 1September 2010).
For heavy hauling, fill the dumptruck (issue 215, November 2012).
I
H
I
I
G
Keep the frontends flush.
FRONT UNIT ASSEMBLY2
PIVOT BLOCK Top view2a
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and rout 116" round-overs on the outsideedges, making sure you end up withmirrored pairs. Finish-sand the fenders.
5Temporarily join the front unit(G/H/I) with the rear unit (AF)using a length of 10-32 threaded rodand lock nuts. Dry-fit two wheels and anaxle peg in the front and rear chassis,then apply glue to the edge of eachfender and hold or clamp them in placefor a few minutes until the glue grabs[Photos K and L]. After the glue dries,repeat the process for the other side.
Build the bucket and arms
1Cut the bucket back (L), sides (M),top (N), and bottom (O) to size, bev-eling the indicated edges of the back,top, and bottom [Drawing 3]. Rout a 18"chamfer along the top front edge of thebucket bottom.
2Spray-adhere the Bucket Top Patternto the top (N). Miter the two corners,
and drill the holes where shown. Cham-fer both faces of the holes and the frontedge. Finish-sand pieces LO to 220 grit
The tractor pulls both theside-dump and lowboy trailers.
(Find all three pieces in issue205, July 2011.)
woodmagazine.com
Put the scraper to work (issue 219, July 2013). Load and spin with theskid loader (issue 211,May 2012).
Rev up the motor grader (issue 208November 2011).
M
GLUE THE BACK TO THE BOTTOM
With the bucket bottom (O) resting on your bench,glue the bucket back (L) to its top face. Hold thepieces in place until the glue grabs.
L
O
K LAlign the center section of the rear fenders (J) parallel to and 1316" below the top of the hood (B). Toposition the front fenders (K), refer to the location shown on the Arm Braces Pattern.
J
B
K
POSITION THE FENDERS
N
ADD THE BUCKET TOP
Stand the bucket back and bottom assembly(L/O) on end and glue the bucket top (N) in place,sandwiching the bucket back.
O
FINISH OFF THE BUCKET
Glue and clamp the bucket sides (M) in place aset the bucket aside to dry while you move onmaking the arm assembly.
O
L
M
O
ML
N
N
before assembling the bucket as shownin Photos M,N, andO.
3From14" stock, cut two 234518"
blanks for the arms (P). Stack theblanks together as you did with the armbraces (I), apply a copy of the Arm Pat-tern, cut and sand them to shape, anddrill the holes where shown. Separate
the arms and remove the pattern.
4Cut the arm spacer (Q) to size andfinish-sand it. Slide a 212" length of
10-32 threaded rod through the holthe upper ends of the arms (P) to athem, then glue and clamp the spacer between the arms [Photo P].
5Cut the brackets (R)18" wider
listed [Materials List]. Apply a BraPattern to each bracket and roundedge as shown in Photo Q. Note the g
orientation; the rounded and the osite square surfaces should be edge gnot end grain.
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L
M
M
N
O
Q
20 bevel
20 bevel
x 1 x 1"
10-32threaded rod
1" long
10-32 lock nut
10-32 lock nuts
10-32 lock nut
10-32 lock nut
10-32threaded rod
1" long
10-32threaded rods
1" long
20 bevel
5"
2"
5"
1"
"
R
"
" chamfer
I
P
P
20 bevel
BUCKET AND
LIFT ASSEMBLY
3
36 WOOD magazineNovember 2
Materials ListFINISHED SIZE
Part T W L Matl. Q
Rear and front units
A rear chassis 34" 512" 634" W
B* hood 3" 212" 4" LM
C steps 138" 2" 3" LW
D cab support 34" 1" 212" M
E cab 2" 212" 3" LW
F roof 14" 212" 214" M
G front chassis 34" 212" 234" W
H pivot block 34" 2" 4" W
I arm braces 14" 212" 234" M
J rear fenders 112" 114" 312" LM
K front fenders 112" 34" 1516" LM
Bucket and lift
L bucket back 14" 1132" 514" M
M bucket sides 14" 212" 3" M
N bucket top 14" 212" 514" M
O bucket bottom 14" 2716" 514" M
P arms 14" 234" 518" M
Q arm spacer 12" 112" 1" W
R* brackets 38" 34" 34" W
*Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions.
XFellowWOODreaders inspire creativitwith toys of their own at
woodmagazine.com/toygallery.XPrefer slightly larger big-boy toys?
Check out some 12-scale versions atwoodmagazine.com/bigmodels.
P
LIFT YOUR ARMS TO ASSEMBLE THEM
To align the arms (P) and the arm spacer (Q) duringglue-up, rest the pieces on a thick scrap.A lengthof threaded rod aligns the top ends of the arms.
Q
GIVE SMALL PIECES A HANDLE
To create the radius on the brackets (R), glue eachone to a scrap handle. After sanding up to thepattern line, cut the bracket free.
R
ATTACH THE BUCKET
With the bucket and the ends of the brackets (R)resting on your bench, press and hold the buckeagainst the brackets.
x 7 x 36" Maple (2 bd. ft.)
x 7 x 24" Walnut (1.3 bd. ft.)
A
Q*
C H
R*E G
*Plane or resaw to thicknesses listed in the Materials List.
B B B B
DJ K,
I* M*
N*
F* L*
O*
P*
Materials key:Wwalnut, LMlaminated maple,LWlaminated walnut, Mmaple.Supplies:Double-faced tape, spray adhesive.Bits:316", 14",1132" 12", 1" drill bits; 18" round-over, 45chamfer router bits.
SourceHardware kit:The kit contains all the specialty parts(wheels, axle pegs, and smokestack) and hardware (nolumber) needed to build one end loader. Order kit no.RS-00988, $19.95+shipping, 888-636- 4478,woodmagazine.com/loader.
Produced by Craig Ruegseggerwith Kevin Boyle
Project design: Kevin Boyle
Illustrations: Lorna Johnson
Cutting Diagram
Q
PP
P
RLPTop ends of
6Cut 1" lengths of 10-32threaded rod and assemble thebrackets (R) to the arms (P) using locknuts [Drawing 3]. Retrieve the bucket(LO) and finish-sand it. Then applyglue to the square edges of the bracketsand glue them to the bucket back (L)[Photo R]. Allow the glue to dry.
7Glue the smokestack [Source] intothe hole in the hood (B) [Drawing 1].Remove the hardware and apply a fin-ish. (We sprayed on three coats of satinaerosol lacquer.) Join the front and rearchassis with a 178" length of 10-32threaded rod and lock nuts [Drawing 3].Secure the wheels with axle pegs gluedinto the chassis (A, G) [Drawings 1 and2], trapping the 38" washers. Finally,attach the bucket arms (P) to the armbraces (I) and brackets (R) with threadedrod and lock nuts [Drawing 3]. Yourloader is ready to fill that truck!
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WOODDear Reader:As a service to you, weve included full-size pon this insert for irregular-shaped and intricate project partsYou can machine all other project parts using the Materials the drawings accompanying the project youre building.
Copyright Meredith Corporation, 2013. All rights reserved. Printed in the U.S.A. Meredith Co
publisher of WOOD Patterns, allows the purchaser of this pattern insert to photocopy these pa
for personal use. Any other reproduction of these patterns is strictly prohibited.
PATTERNNovember 2013 Is
Better Homes and Gardens
Construction-grade LoaderPage 32
Download this full-sizeprintable patterns at
woodmagazine.com/zinio222
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38
Download this full-sizeprintable patterns at
woodmagazine.com/zinio22
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Construction-grade LoaderPage 32
Download this full-sizeprintable patterns at
woodmagazine.com/zinio222
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I
Construction Grade
kid ~ e a d e r
I
I
,
.
.
.
.
.
Dimensio ns
: 8Lx4
1
/a D x
SJ/a"H
-
-
F
om farmyards to building sites, a
nimble skid loader squeezes into
small spaces for a
ll
sorts of jobs:
digging dirt, scooping snow, a nd
moving a
ll
manner
of
material
s.
just like
on
the real-life machine, the arms of
this tabletop version raise and lower a
t ilting bucket. If you haven
t
built any of
the
toys in o
ur
Construction-Grade
series (see
page
61 , th is would be a good
place
to
start. A kit [Source,
page 61)
provides
the
wheels and
th
e hardware.
58
. . .
uild
the body
1
Laminate two layers o ~ walnut to
prepare a JYlx3x
12
blank. Along
the edge
of th
e blank, spray-adhere
photocopies of the Chassis Pattern and
Engine Compartment Side-VIew Pattern
from the
WOOD
Pnttems > insert
on
pag
e
44. Drill
th
e
1
1.J2"
and
:Yt6"
holes where
shown,
then
crosscut
th
e chassis
(A) and
engine compa
rtment (B)
from the blank.
Miter each end of
the
chassis
at
10,
following
th
e lines
on th
e pattern.
2
With a
4"
Forstner bit, drill t
holes W deep in
th
e rea r face of
engine compartment
(B) [Drawing 1
Set your tablcsaw blade W above
table and, with several passes, cu
notch in the engine compartment wh
s
hown
on
th
e pattern. Then bands
the taper along
th
e rear face, and rout
round-overs where s
hown
. Re
mo
ve
pa
tt
erns from the chassis
(A) and
eng
compartme
nt
, sand the parts to 220 g
th
en glue
th
e parts together
[Drawing
WOO
D
magazine May 2
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45
chamfer
D cHASSIS EXPLODED VIEW
3
From Y-1 stock, cu t
th
e cab sides (C)
to size [Drawing 1 . Sp ray-adhere a
copy of the
Cab-Side Pattern
to a bl
ank
(ShopTip,
below]
and scrollsaw and sand
the cab sides to shape. Drill a starter hole
in
the cab
-side window
and
scrollsaw
th
e window.
Then
remove the pattern
and fi nish-sand the cab sides to
22
grit.
SI--IOP T P
Stack cut identic l
p rts in no time
To make identicalparts, sU
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JLOADER ASSEMBLY
10-
32
acorn nut
~
....
...............
10-32 threaded rod 1
ssemble the
pieces
1
Dry-fit the wheels
and
axle pegs
to
the chassis
A)
(Drawing 1].
Cut
a
length
of 10-3Z threaded rod
and attach
the loader arms
G)
to the engine
compartment B) (Drawings 2, 3]. Secure
the rod with acorn nuts. Glue the cross
brace (H) between the arms [Photo B].
SAND THE
WHOLE
BUCKET
laya piece of 220-grit sandpaper on your bench
and sand the edges of the bucket sides K) flush
with the faces of the back
J)
and bottom (l).
60
_ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
.....-... ..
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
--
..
........
..
1o-32 threaded rod
1 o n g
.. ....
..........
2
To make
the
bucket back 0 , sides
K), and
bottom
L),
bevel-rip
at
z
one
edge of a ~ x Z ~ x 1 4 maple blank.
Return the blade to 90, crosscut
the
bucket back
and
bottom to length
[Drawing 2],
and
set the rest of the blank
Ho
ld
the bucket
J/K/l) again5
t the pivot blocks
(M)
for 2 minutes, then let the assemblysit
undisturbed
while
the glue dries.
aside. Tilt the blade to z again,
bevel-rip the square edge of the bu
back to bring it to final width. Leave
blade tilted to z for the next step.
3
Using double-faced tape, attach
bucket
bottom
(L) to a
x
3
carrier board
with
their square e
flush. Stand the carrier board
on
e
and
bevel-rip the front edge of
bucket bottom [Drawing 2]. Spray-ad
copies
of the
Bucket-Side Pattern to
unused portion
of the
blank;
scrollsaw and sand the bucket sides
to shape. Glue
and
clamp
the
bu
together and,
when
the glue dries,
the edges smooth
and
flush [Photo
C
4
Cut
a
b 1 Y walnut
blank
spray-adhere two copies of the P
Block Pattern to it, aligned on opp
edges. Scrollsaw
and sand
the p
blocks (M) to shape.
S
Attach the pivot blocks
M)
to
arms
G)
with t
hr
eaded rod
acorn nuts (Drawings 2, 3]. Apply glu
the
flat faces
of the
pivot blocks,
press the bucket (J/K/L) against th
centered Photo D].
Retrieve the roof
F) and
glue
the cab sides (C), centered [Photo
After
gluingthe roof (F in
place,
raise and
low
the loader arms
G)
to ensure they clear the sid
ofthe roof.
WOOD magazine Ma
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IJEXPLODED VIEW
1032
h r ~ a d e d
rod
W i o o ~
7
After the glue dries, remove the
ha
rdwa
re, tape off the tapered ends
of the axle pegs, and apply a finish. (We
sprayed on three coats of satin
polyurethane, bufnng lightly between
c o a t ~ wi th a 320-grit ~ a n d i n g sponge.)
After the finish dries,
remove
the tape
Build the whole set
With this skid loader, the ConstructlonGrade
toy collection, shownbtlow txpands to
pltcts. crane
(Issue
ISS, Septtmber 2008)
lths and lowersIts bucket and sp ns. ~ a c h and
scoop with artkulattd boomof
tht
e
xcav
ator
Ouue 194, Novtmber 2009). Movt
d1rt
around
with both the bulldozer(lssut
199,
September
2010) and motor grader(lssut 208, November
2011).
For
heavy hauling, tht trac tor pu
lls
both
Mot
or
grader
and reassemble the skid loader, glui ng
the axle
pegs
In
place.
Use
a drop of b
lu
e
thread
locker
on each acorn nut.
Produced
V Cra 9
l u ~ s t g g t r
with Kev
in loyIt
Pro,e
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= = = = = = = ~
LOADER ARM
FULL-SIZE
PATTERN
2 needed)
- - - - - - - -
~ - - - - - - - - - - - - - ~ -
CROSS
BRACE
FULL-SIZE
~ _ _ _ . PATTERN
\
/
Location
of( } '
D
JOINT
P
FULL
-
PATT
4
nee
@
PIVOT
BLOCK
FULL-SIZE
: PATTERN
~ 2
needed
hole
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