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VENICEMAGAZINE VENICEMAGAZINE the city guide the city guide august .08 november .08 august .08 november .08 Focus on: THE CHALLENGE Special: STARS OF VENICE Tips: ULTIMATE SHOPPING USEFUL PAGE Focus on: THE CHALLENGE Special: STARS OF VENICE Tips: ULTIMATE SHOPPING USEFUL PAGE what’s on | churches guide | museums guide | dining | shopping | entertainment VeniceMagazine mensile di informazione turistica e cultura - Anno 6 - N.53 agosto-novembre 2008 - euro zero - sped a.p. 45% art. 2 comma 20/b legge 662/96 - DCI VE

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Page 1: Venice Magazine 53

VENICEMAGAZINEVENICEMAGAZINEthe city guidethe city guide august .08

november .08august .08

november .08

Focus on:THE CHALLENGE

Special:STARS OF VENICE

Tips:ULTIMATE SHOPPINGUSEFUL PAGE

Focus on:THE CHALLENGE

Special:STARS OF VENICE

Tips:ULTIMATE SHOPPINGUSEFUL PAGE

what’s on | churches guide | museums guide | dining | shopping | entertainmentV

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San Marco 1332, 30124 Venezia - ph. +39.5200211 fax +39.041.5200501 - www.hotelmonaco.it

Admire, meet, dream, explore, enjoy,indulge, savour infinite sensations fromthe Terrazza of the Hotel Monaco &Grand Canal

Ammirare, incontrare, sognare, esplo-rare, godere, appagare, assaporaretutto è all’infinito dalla Terrazzadell’Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal

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FOCUS ON

The Challenge

Winning in the ‘Canalasso’ is still today the most desi-

red ambition of every competitor.

La Sfida

Vincere in "Canalasso", è ancor oggi il desiderio più

ambito di ogni regatante.

MUSEUMS GUIDE

Biennale Architettura 2008

ON SHOW

Barbier at the Museo Fortuny

Author of very famous images including the popular panther

of Cartier, he was noticed by the talented editor Lucien Vogel.

Barbier al Museo Fortuny

Autore di immagini famosissime, tra cui la celebre pan-

tera di Cartier, fu notato dal geniale editore Lucien Vogel.

Marcello Morandini at Ca’ Pesaro

CHURCHES GUIDE

The church of Santa Maria Formosa

SPECIAL ISLANDS

Stars of Venice

Le Stelle di Venezia

SHOPPING GUIDE

DINING GUIDE

Hostaria Galileo

Venetian Cuisine

VENETIAN TALES

MAINLAND GUIDE

Palladio 500. The great exhibition

Events and curiosity outdoor

USEFUL PAGE & VENICEMAP

Magazine-guide Anno VI, n°53, agosto - ottobre 2008mensile di informazione [email protected]

Editore: Andrea CarnioSocietà editrice: NIO s.r.l.Direttore responsabile: Giovanni Mazzonetto

Hanno collaborato: Riccardo Bon,Claudio Dell’Orso, Nicoletta Consentino

Redazione ed Amministrazione: NIO s.r.l.via A. da Mestre, 1930172 Venezia - Mestretel./fax +39.041.5454536 [email protected]

Area Vendita: NIO s.r.l.via A. da Mestre, 1930172 Venezia - Mestretel./fax +39.041.5454536 [email protected]

Traduzioni: Elisabetta Carraro

Stampa: Firma Gruppo Poligrafico s.r.l. via Friuli Venezia Giulia, 77 - Pianiga (Ve).

Distribuzione e Logistica: NIO s.r.l.via A. da Mestre, 19 30172 - Venezia-Mestre.

Fotografia: Archivio VM, Archivio APT, Archivio StoricoComunale “Fondo Giacomelli”, Archivio Fotografico Resini,Archivio Magistrato delle Acque, Archivio Procuratoria diSan Marco, Archivio Accademia, Archivio PIero Zanotto.

Registrazione presso il Tribunale Civile e Penaledi Venezia n°1403 del 14/11/2001

Registrazione presso il Registro Nazionale Stampe ePeriodici per il Garante nelle Comunicazioni n° 8189.

Si ringrazia per la collaborazione:

MARCELLOMORANDINIStruttura 411, 2000 legno laccato,cm. 120 x 28 x 22Collezione dell’artista.

All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. VENICEMAGAZINEthe city guide is registered trademark of NIO s.r.l., makes every effort toensure the accuracy of the information it publishes but cannot be heldresponsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions.The choice of the advertising texts has been made at the discretionof the Venice Magazine staff.

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VTP 18SPECIALStars of Venice

Le Stelle di Venezia

09ON SHOWBarbier at the Museo FortunyBarbier al Museo Fortuny

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Ritorna anche quest’annonella prima domenica disettembre la Regata

Storica, la più tradizionaledelle manifestazioni veneziane,che si svolse per la prima voltail 10 gennaio 1315 durante ildogado di Giovanni Soranzo.Storicamente le prime notizie,frammentarie e confuse, ci giun-gono dal XIII secolo ma solosuccessivamente la Regata entradi diritto nelle cronache essen-do rappresentata anche dafamosi artisti sulle loro televedutiste. La parola regata sem-bra derivi dal verbo "aurigare"col significato di gareggiare. Leregate caratterizzarono per oltresei secoli la vita di Venezia cele-brando eventi fastosi ed accadi-menti politici di rilevanza. La Regata, così come appareoggi, comincia a delinearsi nelsecolo XIX quando, sotto ilregime austriaco, ripresero lecompetizioni lungo il CanalGrande (1841). Erano stateinterrotte con la caduta delGoverno della Serenissima pergiungere poi (1899) all'introdu-zione della dicitura "Storica"per ricordare le glorie e i fastidella Serenissima. Le competi-zioni remiere sono precedutedal sontuoso corteo storico,costituito da splendide imbar-cazioni riccamente intagliate edaddobbate con centinaia difiguranti in splendidi costumidi broccato. Il corteo rievoca letrionfali accoglienze tributatenel 1489 dalla Serenissima aCaterina Cornaro, regina diCipro, ricca discendente di unanobile famiglia veneziana esposa nel 1472 del re di CiproGiacomo di Lusignano. Cate-rina alla morte prematura del

T he first Sunday ofSeptember will see thereturn of the ‘Regata

Storica’ ( historical regatta), themost traditional of the Venetianfestivals. It first took place onJanuary 10, 1315 during thereign of Doge Giovanni Soranzo.The early history of the regatta isfragmentary and confused, andonly after the 13th century did itstart to feature on the chroniclesdepicted by artists on their can-vases. The word regata most pro-bably originated from the verbaurigare which means to compe-te (gareggiare). The regattas cha-racterised for more than six cen-turies the life of Venice by cele-brating splendorous events andsignificant political occasions.The regatta as we see it today,began to be shaped in the 19thcentury when under theAustrian regime, the competi-tions along the grand canal(1841) were reintroduced aftertheir interruption along with thefall of the government of theSerenissima in 1797. Then in1899 the word storica was addedto remember the glory and theslendour of the SerenissimaRepublic. The rowing races arepreceeded by a lavish historicalprocession consisting of splendidrichly carved small boats andadorned with hundreds of figu-res in wonderful brocaded costu-mes. The procession recalls thetriumphant reception thatVenice gave in 1489 to the queenof Cyprus, Caterina Cornaro.She was a wealthy descendent ofa noble Venetian family who in1472 married the king ofCyprus, Giacomo di Lusignano.Upon his early death, and withhis heir still in infancy,

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La SfidaVincere in "Canalasso", come chiamano il Canal Grandegli abitanti di questa città, è ancor oggi il desiderio piùambito di ogni regatante, oltre a essere il sogno proibitodei tanti veneziani che tuttora vogano alla veneta.

THE CHALLENGEWinning in the ‘Canalasso’ as the inhabitants of Venice call the Grand Canal, is still today the most desi-red ambition of every competitor, but will remain an unattainable dream to most Venetian rowers. © Apt

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NCaterina became queen andsoon afterwards ceded herrealm to Venice, receiving inexchange 14 kingdoms on theItalian mainland, centered atAsolo. If the historical processionsignifies little more than a pic-turesque memory of the longpast glory and grandeur of theeconomic and political power ofVenice, the regattas representeven today, the ultimate athle-tic competition in the world ofVenetian style rowing – vogaalla veneta. This is the day inwhich winning means theentrant will be entered into thehistory of this sport and therefo-re into that of Venice too. Theregattas, at one time were opento any citizens of the Republic,now however the participantsare only Venetian rowers. The route of the race windsfrom the start, at the Riva degliSchiavoni to the Punta dellaSalute where, the ‘cavata’ (theinitial speedy start to the com-petition) winds down. By this

marito e dell'erede ancora infasce divenne regina. In cambiodella rinuncia al trono di Cipro,in favore di Venezia, le venneroassegnati quattordici feudi nellaterraferma veneta, tra i qualiAsolo. Ma se il corteo storicoha ormai un significato pretta-mente pittoresco, memoria diuna lontana grandezza econo-mica e politica di Venezia suimari, le regate rappresentanoancor oggi il culmine della sta-gione agonistica per il mondodella voga alla veneta: una gior-nata in cui vincere significa peri regatanti entrare nella storia diquesto sport e in qualche modoin quella di Venezia. Le regateun tempo erano riservate ai cit-tadini dei territori della Repub-blica Serenissima mentre ora vipartecipano solo regatantiveneziani. Il percorso delleregate si snoda da Riva degliSchiavoni, dov'è posizionata lapartenza, alla Punta dellaSalute dove, terminata la "cava-ta" (lo scatto di partenza), ilpubblico attende con ansia di

point, the public are full of anti-cipation as to who has enteredthe grand canal first, as often isthat boat which will win theregatta. The boats thereforemake their way up the grandcanal (il ‘Canalasso’) to the sta-tion where they turn and goback down to the final post(‘machina’) which is a tempo-rary wooden and ornately car-ved baroque stage outside Ca’Foscari. Here the losers argueand banter, the crews accusingeachother of foul play until theprizes are handed over.The first race after the historicalprocession is that of the youngmale Venetians in the small lightcraft with two oars (pupparini). These very skilful boats fullytest the quality of the male oar-smen. Then follows the regattaof the women in the two-oaredmascarete boats which wereused in the time of courtesans.The third race sees the men inthe heavier larger crafts thatrequire six oarsmen. These were typical boats usedto transport goods in the lagoonand often were endowed with asail. The height of the show isthe race of the ‘champions ofthe oar’ in the small and agilegondolas with two oars. This competition displays theskilful quality of the partici-pants more than simply theirpower and it is the race thatinterests rowers themselves themost. This competition stirs upa storm among Venetians andin time it has come to representthe myth of the Regata Storica. Winning in the ‘Canalasso’ asthe inhabitants of Venice callthe Grand Canal, is still todaythe most desired ambition ofevery competitor, but willremain an unattainable dreamto most Venetian rowers.Glory awaits the winners informs of cash prizes and fame.Flags are also given to mark thewinning positions: Given tothe first is a red flag, white tothe second, green to the third,and to the fourth, blue.

vedere quale barca entri perprima in Canal Grande, vistoche spesso è quella che poi siaggiudicherà la regata. Le barchequindi risalgono il "Canalasso"fino all'altezza della Stazione pergirare il paletto e tornare indietropuntando l'arrivo posto davantialla "machina", una costruzio-ne in legno posizionata pressoCa’ Foscari: di stile barocco edornata di statue ed allegorie.Davanti ad essa, una volta tacitatele quasi immancabili reciprocheaccuse di scorrettezza tra gli equi-paggi, si svolge la premiazionecon la consegna dei premi. La prima sfida dopo il corteostorico è quella dei giovanissimisu pupparini a due remi, imbar-cazioni molto tecniche che met-tono alla prova le qualità dellepromesse maschili del remo. Aseguire parte la regata delledonne su mascarete (così chia-mate in quanto la prua ricordavagamente una bautta), leggereimbarcazioni a due remi usateun tempo dalle cortigiane. Terzaregata a partire è quella maschilesulle pesanti caorline a sei remi,imbarcazioni da trasporto fluvia-le che nei tragitti lagunari eranospesso dotate anche di una velaal terzo. Apice della manifesta-zione è la sfida dei campioni delremo su gondolini a due remi,imbarcazioni leggere in forma digondola molto snella. Questagara esalta le qualità tecniche deiregatanti più che la loro potenzaed è la sfida più attesa dal popolodel remo, quella che accende iltifo dei veneziani e che ha conso-lidato nel tempo il mito sportivodella Regata Storica con i suoimaggiori protagonisti.Vincere in "Canalasso", comechiamano il Canal Grande gliabitanti di questa città, è ancoroggi il desiderio più ambito diogni regatante, oltre a essere ilsogno proibito dei tanti venezia-ni che tuttora vogano alla veneta.Ai vincitori spettano gloria, famae premi in denaro, oltre alle ban-diere: al primo è consegnata larossa, al secondo la bianca, alterzo la verde, al quarto la blu.© Apt © Apt

There are four rowing races: one for juniorcompetitors, one for women, theCaorline race and the Gondolini race. Inthe past the first three winners of eachcompetition were awarded with moneyand flags, whilst the fourth runner-up wasgiven a yellow flag and a live piglet asconsolation prize. Nowadays…

Le regate a colpi di remo sono quattro: laregata dei giovanissimi, la regata delledonne, quella delle Caorline e quella deiGondolini. Nel passato venivano premia-ti con denaro e bandiere i primi tre classi-ficati di ogni gara, al quarto veniva datauna bandiera gialla ed un porcellino vivocome premio di consolazione. Oggi...

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BIENNALE OF ARCHITECTURE 2008 Two years after the edition dedicated to the issues linked to the interaction between city, architecture and inhabitants,the Biennale of Architecture returns this year (from September 14 to November 23, 2008) both with an aim to carry onwith the challenge launched in 2006 and to go beyond the concept of “building”. If our cities keep expanding in asort of ravel of houses crossing the landscape regardless of the natural and social environment, how can we createan architecture that makes use of territory with wisdom? This is the question that Aaron Betsky (Missoula, Montana, USA,1958), director of the exhibition “Out There: Architecture Beyond Building”, poses to himself. He also explains how it isnecessary today to opt for an architecture that is free from buildings, in order to better face the central issues posedby society. Architecture is not just the act of “building”, but it is above all a way of representing, of giving a shape andof offering critical and valuable alternatives to the human environment. The building in itself is not enough: it needs to

be carefully pondered and discussed, just as the way it has been built has to make man feel “at home” in the world. The manifesto of such a“mission” is a work by Frank Owen Gehry (Toronto, 1929), one of the first great architects to modify design with the help of the computer - he hasbeen suggested by the director as “Golden Lion for career” - and who with his work (including the planning of the Bilbao Guggenheim in 1998and of the Walt Disney Concert Hall in 2005) has transformed modern architecture by setting it free from “box-like” boundaries and from the limitsof common building norms: an experimental architecture acting as a true modern model for an architecture that goes “beyond building”.

BIENNALE ARCHITETTURA 2008 Se le nostre città continuano a espandersi in un concatenarsi di residenze, che attraversano il paesaggio senza riguardo per l’ambiente natu-rale e sociale, come possiamo creare un’architettura che usi il territorio con saggezza? È lo stesso Aaron Betsky (Missoula, Montana, USA, 1958),direttore di questa Mostra “Out There: Architecture Beyond Building”, a chiederselo e a spiegare come oggi sia necessario orientarsi piuttostoverso un’architettura libera dagli edifici, per poter meglio affrontare i temi centrali della società. L’architettura non è solo l’atto del “costruire”,ma è soprattutto un modo di rappresentare, di dare forma e di offrire alternative critiche e valide all’ambiente umano. L’edificio in se stesso nonè dunque abbastanza: è necessario pensarlo e parlarne, così some il modo di rappresentarlo e di realizzarlo deve tener conto di far sentirel’uomo “a casa” nel mondo. Manifesto di questa “mission” è non a caso il lavoro di Frank Owen Gehry (Toronto, 1929), uno fra i primi grandiarchitetti a modificare il design con l’aiuto del computer - proposto dal direttore come leone d’oro alla carriera - che con la sua opera (tra cuigli esuberanti design per il Guggenheim di Bilbao nel ‘98 o per la Walt Disney Concert Hall nel 2005) ha trasformato l’architettura moderna libe-randola dai confini della ‘scatola’ e dai limiti delle comuni pratiche costruttive: un’architettura sperimentale che funge da vero moderno model-lo per un’architettura “oltre il costruire”.

OUT THERE: ARCHITECTURE BEYOND BUILDING

MuseumsguideMuseumsTheatres GalleriesExhibitionsCity Listing

MuseiTeatriGallerieEsposizioniListing tematico

Renowned and sought-after as he was in life, George Barbier(Nantes, 1882) – artist and fashion illustrator, scenographer andunquestioned protagonist of the Art Decò Movement – was for-

gotten after his death that occurred in 1932 in Paris at 50 years old.Author of very famous images including the popular panther of Cartier,he was noticed as an illustrator by the talented editor Lucien Vogel whobrought him into the “Gazette du Bon Ton” in 1912 with which he willwork, after the second world war until 1925, also as correspondentreporting from Italy and from Venice on theatre, ballet and onDiaghilev’s “Russian ballets”. The years between 1910 and the out-break of the first world war were for him probably the most fruitful. Itwas during those years that he created successful wallpapers (for AndrèGroult’s atelier), cooperated with renowned stylists such as Poiret,Worth and Vionnet in illustrating their creations, and again with“Maison Cartier” for which he designed jewels and their famous logo.His activity as an illustrator – he worked also for “Vogue” and “VieParisienne” – was coupled with the creation of theatrical dresses anddécors. He created the costumes for the1919 “Casanova”, for the 1923 “les FoliesBergère” and for Rodolfo Valentino in“Monsieur Beaucaire” of 1924 that wasreviewed by the “New York Times as“stunning…no one has ever seen suchspectacular costumes and sceneries before”.This exhibition is the first one dedicatedto him, a figure which has been verymuch analysed in the past years. TheMuseo Fortuny – not by chance, since itwas in those years that Mariano Fortunycreated his knossos shawls and theDelphos tunics that the stars of that timesimply adored (including Ida Rubinstein,protagonist in 1910 of Shéhérazade byDiaghilev-Bakst) – hosts until January 5,2009 over two hundred works includingpaintings, drawings, articles, pochoir (aparticular type of hand colour with smalltemplates), photographs, manuscripts andfilms organised in seven thematic sectionsperfectly and exclusively documenting allhis artistic experience.

Assai celebre e conteso in vita George Barbier, (Nantes, 1882-1932), - artista e illustratore di moda, scenografo e indiscussoprotagonista del movimento déco - fu ben presto dimenticato

dopo la morte avvenuta a Parigi a soli cinquant’anni. Autore di imma-gini famosissime, tra cui la celebre pantera di Cartier, fu notato comeillustratore dal geniale editore Lucien Vogel che lo portò nel 1912 alla“Gazette du Bon Ton” con la quale collaborò, dopo la guerra fino al1925, anche come inviato per reportage dall’Italia e da Venezia conrecensioni su teatro, danza e i “balletti russi” di Diaghilev. Gli anni trail 1910 e lo scoppio della prima guerra mondiale furono per lui pro-babilmente i più fecondi, tanto da portarlo a realizzare carte da para-ti di enorme successo (per l’atelier di Andrè Groult), collaborazionicon grandi stilisti come Poiret, Worth o Vionnet nell’illustrazione delleloro creazioni o ancora con la “Maison Cartier” per la quale realizzòdisegni per gioielli e il celebre logo. All’attività di illustratore, tra glialtri anche per “Vogue” e la “Vie Parisienne”, Barbier affiancò altresìquella di creatore di abiti e decori teatrali, tra cui i costumi per il

“Casanova” del ’19, per “les FoliesBergère” del ’23 o per Rodolfo Valentinonel “Monsieur Beaucaire” del ’24, che ilNew York Times recensì come “magnifi-ci…mai prima ad ora si erano visti costumie scenari tanto spettacolari”. A far luce su un movimento e su una figu-ra in questi ultimi anni oggetto di forterecupero e studio, vi è ora anche la primamostra in assoluto a lui dedicata. AlMuseo Fortuny, non un caso dato cheanche Mariano proprio in quegli annibrevettava a Parigi i suoi scialli knossos ele tuniche delphos adorate dalle dive del-l’epoca (tra cui Ida Rubinstein protagoni-sta nel 1910 di Shéhérazade di Diaghilev-Bakst), trovano posto fino al 5 gennaio2009 oltre duecento tra dipinti, disegni,articoli, pochoir (una particolare colora-zione a mano con stampini), fotografie,libri, manoscritti e film in sette sezionitematiche che documentano perfetta-mente, e in esclusiva, l’intera esperienzaartistica di George Barbier.

BARBIER AT THEMUSEO FORTUNY

MUSEO FORTUNY Until January 5 2009

Barbier al Museo Fortuny

a cura di Riccardo Bon

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MUSEUMSPALAZZO DUCALEmap: F5 - S.Marco, 1 ph. +39.041.5209070 9am - 7pm (From Nov. 3 9am - 5pm)Tickets: € 12.00 + 1.00

The symbolic seat of Venetian power,formerly the seat of the Doge and StateMagistratures, the Palace is the supremeembodiment of Venetian civilisation. Amasterpiece of gothic architecture, itreveals a grandiose stratification of buil-ding and ornamental elements. Theinteriors, superbly decorated by legionsof artists, including Tiziano, Veronese,Tintoretto, Vittoria and Tiepolo, offer arange of different experiences: from thevast halls of political power to the inte-rior finishings of the Doge's chambers,from the gloom of the prison cells to thebrightness of the loggias overlooking St.Mark’s Square and the lagoon.

MUSEO CORRERmap: F5 - S.Marco, 52 ph. +39.041.5209070 9am - 7pm (From Nov. 3 9am - 5pm)Tickets: € 12.00 + 1.00It’s located in St. Mark’s Square, between“Ala Napoleonica” and “Procuratie Nuove”;it takes its origin from the collection TeodoroCorrer gave to the City in 1830. The museumis divided into three sections: the neo-classi-cal part, the historical part, about Venetiancivilisation, and the Venetian picture gallerywell displayed by Carlo Scarpa. Visitor willdiscover also the political, social and mili-tary history of Venice’s Serenissima Republic.Permanent exhibition: collections ofweapons, games, marble and bronzesculptures, coins and medals. Paint-ings by Carpaccio, “La Trasfigu-razione” by Giovanni Bellini, statuesand sketches by Canova.Temporary exhibition: Edward AngeliVenezia. From September 25 todecember 8. La Collezione De Pero.From October 24 to March 2.

MUSEO STORICO NAVALEmap: H5 - Castello, 2148 ph. +39.041.5200276 - Tickets: € 1.558.45am - 1.30pm • Closing day: Sun, Vac

The museum contains relics from variousregional navies and from the Italian navy.The 2nd floor has a room dedicated to theBucintoro, the gilded ceremonial sea craftof the Doge, used in the solemn ceremo-nies like the Venice’s wedding to the sea.Permanent exhibition: collections of ori-ginal documents, remains and modelsof boats of several forms and sizes.

CA' REZZONICOMuseum of the Venetian 700smap: D5 - Dorsoduro, 3136 ph. +39.041.5209070 - Tickets: € 6.5010am - 6pm (From Nov. 3 10am - 5pm)Closing day: Tue and May 1

It’s a splendid baroque palace facing theGran Canal, work by Longhena andMassari. It houses marvellous paintingsof the Venetian 18th century and it’s fur-nished with precious original furniture.Permanent exhibition: paintings by Tiepolo,Canaletto, Guardi, Rosalba Carriera, PietroLonghi, and Piazzetta. Collections of furni-ture, Chinese and Venetian vases. Col-lection of wooden statues by Brustolon.Temporary exhibition: Michele Marieschi -Vedute Incise. Until September 22.Graalglass. Ottavo Concorso Internazionaledi Design Trieste Contemporanea 2008.From September 11 to October 13.

MUSEO ARCHEOLOGICO NAZIONALEMarciano museummap: F5 - S. Marco, 52 ph. +39.041.5225978 9am - 7pm (From Nov. 3 9am - 5pm)Tickets: € 12.00 + 1.00The museum was founded on thebequeath of noble Venetian familieswho operated in the old colonialtrade markets. It is located in the buil-ding of Procuratie Nuove in St. Mark’sSquare and contains Roman andGreek finds dating from the 5th cen-tury B.C. to the 3rd century A.D. Permanent exhibition: collections ofbronzes, ceramics, jewels and coins andvery beautiful sculptures with many ori-ginal Greek and Roman pieces.

CASA GOLDONImap: F4 - S.Polo, 2794 ph. +39.041.5209070 • Tickets: € 2.50

MUSEUMS CITY LISTING

The following list describes famous and intere-sting museums, theatres and galleries in

Venice. Full of useful and detailed information.

Il seguente listing descrive famosi ed inte-ressanti musei, teatri e gallerie della città.

Completo di informazioni utili e dettagliate.

MuseumsFoundationsArt GalleriesPrivate Galleries

MuseiFondazioniGallerie d’arteGallerie private

10am - 5pm (From Nov. 3 10am - 4pm)Closing day: Wednesday and May 1

Reopened to the public on 27th October2001, Palazzo Centanni is the birth placeof the famous playwright Carlo Goldoni.This delightful gothic palace today housesa sparkling new, high-tech museumdevoted to the playwright’s work andincludes a host of documents and projec-tions of historical theatrical performances.Permanent exhibition: Venetian theatricalrelics and many texts, original manuscriptsand theatrical works of several eras.

MUSEO DI STORIA NATURALEmap: D3 - Fondaco dei Turchi, 1730 ph. +39.041.5209070 - Tickets: Free10am - 4pm (Saturday and Sunday only)Closing day: Monday

A partial reopening of the VenetianMuseum (closed for restoration) offersvisitors a chance to view the renova-ted hall dedicated to the historicalLigabue Expedition (1973) and, onthe ground floor, a new acquariumwith more than 50 species of fishes.

BIBLIOTECA NAZIONALE MARCIANAMonumental hallsmap: F5 - Piazza S. Marcoph. +39.041.2407211 9am - 7pm (From Nov. 3 9am - 5pm)Tickets: € 12.00 + 1.00 The Library,designed by Jacopo Sansovino, was builtand decorated between 1537 and1560, at the request of the Procuratorsof St. Mark, in order to receive Latin andGreek codes, gifts by CardinalBessarione. Nowadays, the Library hou-ses a priceless book collection ofVenice’s Serenissima Republic.Permanent exhibition: “La Sapienza” byTiziano and the Library Room decoratedwith twenty-one tondos on the archedceiling and philosophers’ portraits on thewalls by Tintoretto and Veronese.

MUSEO DEL VETRO Glass museummap: L2 - Murano, F.ta Giustinian, 8 ph. +39.041.5209070 • Tickets: € 5.5010am - 6pm (From Nov. 3 10am - 5pm)Closing day: Wednesday and May 1

It’s located in the former Torcello

Bishops’ palace, Palazzo Giustiniani,a typical Venetian Gothic building. Ithouses glass collections arranged in achronological order: here is the huge-st historical exhibition of Murano’sglass, comprehensive of 15th to 20thcenturies pieces.Permanent exhibition: unique extantcopies of Murano glass and Renais-sance pieces from the collections ofCorrer, Moli and Cicogna.Temporary exhibition: FAREVETRO.Creatività e tecnica in cento opere. UntilSeptember 30.

MUSEO FORTUNYmap: E5 - S. Marco, 3958 ph. +39.041.5209070 - Tickets: € 8.0010am - 6pm • Closing day: TuesdaysThis particulary charming museum,located in a Gothic palace, keeps theoriginal usage given by MarianoFortuny who created there his ownatelier of photography, set-designingand staging. Nowadays, because ofrestoration works, in the museum areorganized only temporary exhibitionsof visual communication.Temporary exhibition: George Barbier(1882-1932) La nascita del Decò. FromAugust 30 to January 5. Un mondo dicarta. Isabelle De Borchgrave incontraMariano Fortuny. Until November 30.

MUSEO DEL MERLETTOBurano, Piazza Galuppi, 187 ph. +39.041.5209070 10am - 4pm • Tickets: € 4.00Closed until November

The museum is entirely dedicated tothe history of the lace production inBurano. It is situated next to the schoolof this art, school established in 1872by the countess Adriana Marcello Zon.Permanent exhibition: numerous lacesmade by the annexed school, impor-tant designs, photographic and icono-graphic examples.

MUSEO EBRAICOmap: D2 - Cannaregio, 2902/b ph. +39.041.715359 - Tickets: € 8.5010am - 7 pm (From Oct. 1 10am - 6pm)Closing day: Saturday

Michele MarieschiVedute incise

Èuna concomitanza più che appropriata quella che vede l’ar-chitetto e designer di fama internazionale MarcelloMorandini esporre a Venezia durante la Biennale architet-

tura. Essa avviene quarant’anni dopo la sua presenza alPadiglione Italia nel ’68 e per di più a Ca’ Pesaro, storica sededelle prime Biennali. Gli spazi al piano terra del Museo ospitanoa Venezia 60 opere di “arte, architettura e design” (discipline perle quali l’artista non concepisce una differenza reale, esistentesolo nelle modalità e negli spazi nei quali queste si sviluppano) lasintesi di trent’anni di lavoro. Un lavoro al dì fuori delle mode equasi sempre permeato dai principi matematici e dall’armoniache si rifà al Bauhaus (e alle sue scuole in Europa e negli StatiUniti), al Costruttivismo russo, al Concettualismo e alMovimento Moderno e al Minimalismo alla Donald Judd inarchitettura, ma che affonda le radici anche nel “Punto, linea,superficie” di Kandinsky, nell’arcaica e armonica geometria diPlatone e nell’antica cosmologia pitagorica.Tra l’androne longheniano e le salette laterali sono esposte (finoal 16 novembre) strutture e sculture di figure geometriche, rea-lizzate tra il ’72 e il 2008, per lo più in legno laccato in bianco enero e porcellana; mentre nei cortili i progetti e le famose realiz-zazioni architettoniche e un’installazione site-specific.

CA’ PESARO - Until November 16

T he one that sees the internationally famous architect anddesigner Marcello Morandini exhibiting in Venice duringthe Biennale of architecture is a more than appropriate

coincidence. The exhibition takes place forty years after his pre-sence in the Padiglione Italia in 1968, and furthermore it takesplace in Ca’Pesaro, historic venue of the first editions of theBiennale. The areas on the first floor of the Museum aim at offe-ring, through 60 works of “art, architecture and design” (disci-plines that, according to the artist, do not present a real differen-ce which only exists in modalities and areas in which these deve-lop themselves), a compendium of thirty years of work. A workthat is not influenced by fashions and is almost always permea-ted by mathematic principles and by harmony, that looks toBauhaus (and to its schools in Europe and in the United States)as a reference, to Russian Constructivism, to Conceptualism, tothe Modern Movement, to Donald Judd’s Minimalism in archi-tecture, but that is deeply rooted in Kandinsky’s “Point, line, sur-face”, in Platone’s archaic and harmonious geometry and in theancient Pythagorean cosmology. Structures and sculptures of geo-metrical figures, created between 1972 and 2008, are exhibitedbetween the hallway by Longhena and the small side halls, whe-reas the courtyard hosts the projects and the famous architectonicworks and a site-specific installation.

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ANNE FRANKUna storia attualeANNE FRANKUna storia attuale

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Strolling between Campo del GhettoNuovo - the site of the museum whichtestifies the constant and productive pre-sence of the Jewish community in Venice- and Campo del Ghetto Vecchio, youwill come across five synagogues, threeof which are open to the public.Permanent exhibition: collections offurniture, texts and wedding contracts,woven fabrics of liturgical use, orna-mental silvers, fabrics and curtains.Temporary exhibition: Quattro braccia diterra. Mostra fotografica di Davide Salvadori.From September 7 to October 26.Anne Frank, una storia attuale. FromNovember 2 to November 30.

VENETO INSTITUTE OFSCIENCE, LETTERS AND ARTmap: D5 - Campo Santo Stefano, 2945ph. +39.041.5204372Tickets: € 10.00 • 10am - 7pmIt’s a lively centre of promotion andcomparison, in which cultural, scienti-fic and artistic knowledge, ideas, andexperiences can be exchanged.

MUSEO DI PALAZZO MOCENIGOTextile and costumes history museummap: E3 - S. Croce, 1992 ph. +39.041.5209070 • Tickets: € 4.0010am - 5pm (From Nov. 3 10am - 4pm)Closing day: Monday and May 1The eighteenth-century building con-tains a splendid series of polychromemarbles, frescoed ceilings depictingthe exploits of the Mocenigo family,which provided the Venetian Republicwith seven Doges. The building hou-ses the seat of the Study Centre for theHistory of Textile and Costume.Permanent exhibition: a selection ofrare items – textiles and costumes - ofspecial value and an important libraryspecialised in this sector.

PALAZZO ALBRIZZI German-Italian Cultural Associationmap: F3 - Cannaregio, 4118 ph. +39.041.5232544 - Tickets: Free10am-1pm/4pm-6pm • Closing day: SunThis austere looking palace still has twovery nice halls in the “piano nobile”,which are decorated with frescoesrepresenting antique mythological the-mes by Guarana. Nowadays, duringthe venetian carnival season, maskedballs are organized in this palace.Temporary exhibition: Rainer Maria Rilke.“Il poeta e i suoi angeli”. From September6 to October 11.

MUSEO DIOCESANO DI ARTE SACRAmap: G5 - Castello, 4312 ph. +39.041.522916610am - 6pm • Tickets: € 8.00The museum contains many finds ofVenetian convents and churches and islocated in the St. Apollonia convent(12th-13th century). A rare jewel ofRomanic architecture, the cloister con-tains the Lapidario Marciano withRoman and Byzantine stone fragments.Permanent exhibition: works of art, fur-nishings and holy furniture. Paintingsby Palma il Giovane, Pellegrini, LucaGiordano and Moretto.

FOUNDATIONS

FONDAZIONE BEVILACQUA LA MASAmap: F5 - San Marco, 71

ph. +39.041.5207797 - Tickets: free10am - 6pm • Closing day: TuesdayA foundation that has the aim ofspreading and increasing knowledgeof contemporary art, it dedicates par-ticular attention to young artists. Withits main location in Saint Mark’sSquare, it will soon become a placefor looking up books, CD-Roms andother rare material. Temporary exhibition: Gregor Schneider -Cube Venice. Until September 14.

SPAZIO CULTURALE SVIZZEROPalazzo Trevisan degli Ulivimap: D6 - Campo S. Agnese, 810ph. +39.041.5225996 - Tickets: FreeMon-Fri 11am - 5pm, Sat 2pm - 6pmClosing day: SundayA new Swiss Cultural space has beenopened in Venice since February 2002.It is considered as an extension of theSwiss Institute in Rome. The multivalenthall, open to the Swiss CulturalInstitutions operating in Italy, hosts arti-stic manifestations, expositions, exhibits,meetings, conferences and concerts.

COLLEZIONE PEGGY GUGGENHEIMmap: E6 - Dorsoduro, 701 ph. +39.041.2405411 - Tickets: € 10.0010am - 6pm • Closing day: Tuesday The Foundation was created byPeggy Guggenheim, who was deeplyin love with Venice. The museum islocated in Peggy Guggenheim’s for-mer home and it houses Europeanand American works of the first halfof the 20th century.Permanent exhibition: extensive col-lection of 20th century paintings by.Kandiskij, Pollock, De Chirico, Vedova,Picasso, Marini, Severini.Temporary exhibition: Coming of age.Arte americana dal 1850 al 1950.Until October 12.

FONDAZIONE QUERINI STAMPALIAmap: F5 - Castello, 5252 ph. +39.041.2711411 - Tickets: € 8.00Tue-Sat 10am - 8pm, Sun 10am - 7pmClosing day: Monday

The Foundation was set up in 1869upon the bequeath by Earl GiovanniQuerini Stampalia. This well-preser-ved building is built in perfect and ori-ginal Venetian style and contains arich library and a fascinating picturegallery. Temporary exhibition: Maria Morganti- Diario cromatico. Until September14. Mariateresa Sartori - Il suono dellalingua. Until September 14.

FONDAZIONE CINImap: G6 - Isola di S.Giorgio ph. +39.041.2710402 - Tickets: freeSaturday and Sunday only: 10am - 5pmThe Giorgio Cini Foundation was esta-blished in 1951 by Count Vittorio Ciniin memory of his son Giorgio. It hostsconferences and congresses of scienti-

fic and cultural organisations fromItaly and abroad, offering an unparal-leled urban and monumental context.Temporary exhibition: New GraphicDesign Japan TDC2008. FromSeptember 10 to November 2. Fratellid’Italia. Progetto fotografico diMatthias Schaller. From september 13to October 12.

TELECOM FUTURE CENTREmap: F4 - San Marco, 4826 ph. +39.041.5213206 - Tickets: Free10am - 6pm • Closing day: MondayThe most advanced internationalresearch centre is located in theancient convent of S. Salvador. TheCentre has reconsidered the historicaland social elements of Venice in thelight of new technologies.

ART GALLERIES

GALLERIA FRANCHETTI CA' D'OROmap: E3 - Cannaregio, 3933ph. +39.041.5238790 - Tickets: € 5.00Tue-Sun 8.15am - 6.45pmMonday 8.15am-2pm The Ca' D'oro, an enchanting gothicpalace on the Grand Canal, owesits name to the gold leaf which, inthe past, decorated its elegant faça-de. It houses the art collectiongiven to the State by the baronGiorgio Franchetti. To see, the “SanSebastiano” by Mantegna; works byGuardi and a marble well engravedby B. Bon.Permanent exhibition: a wide collec-tion of coins, medals, ceramic andmany paintings by the FlemishSchool.

GALLERIA INTERNAZIONALE D'ARTE MODERNA CA' PESAROmap: E3 - Santa Croce, 2076 ph. +39.041.5209070 - Tickets: € 5.5010am - 6pm (From Nov. 3 10am - 5pm)Closing day: Mon. and May 1 It is located in one of the most impor-tant Baroque palaces in Venice, amasterpiece by Longhena. It houses awealth of paintings, sculptures,etchings and drawings by renownedcontemporary artists from differentcountries: from Klimt to Chagall, fromKandinskij to Klee, to Matisse andmany more.Temporary exhibition: MarcelloMorandini. Arte, architettura, design.From September 12 to November 16.

PALAZZO GRASSImap: D5 - San Marco, 3231 ph. +39.041.52316809am - 7pm - Tickets: € 10.00Temporary exhibition: Italics. ArteItaliana fra tradizione e rivoluzio-ne,1968-2008. From September 27to March 22.

GALLERIE DELL'ACCADEMIAmap: D6 - Dorsoduro, 1055 ph. +39.041.5222247 - Tickets: € 10Tue-Sun 8.15am - 7.15pmMon. 8.15am-2pm • Closing day: May 1The Accademia picture-galleries pro-vide a very complete overview ofVenetian art history through the ages.They are settled at the foot of theAccademia bridge. On Tuesdays only,it’s possible to visit the rich warehou-

ses on the top floor of the monasterydesigned by Palladio.Permanent exhibition: paintings byTintoretto, Veronese, Giorgione,Bellini, Tiziano, Tiepolo...

PRIVATE GALLERIES

BUGNO ART GALLERYmap: E5 - San Marco, 1996/d ph. +39.041.5231305

SEGUSO VIRO GLASS GALLERYmap: L2 - F.ta Venier, 29 - Murano ph. +39.041.5275353

GALLERIA RAVAGNANmap: F5 - San Marco, 50/a ph. +39.041.5203021

GALLERIA REGINAmap: L2 - Riva Longa, 25/a Murano ph. +39.041.739202

BAC ART STUDIOmap: E5 - Dorsoduro,862 ph. +39.041.5228171 - open dailyThe gallery was born was bornfrom the experiences of PaoloBaruffaldi and Claudio Bazzichettojust 30years ago.

HOLLY SNAPP GALLERYmap: E5 - C.lle delle Botteghe - S. Marcoph. +39.041.5210030

OPERA GALLERYmap: E5 - San Marco, 2288 ph. +39.041.2770504

ROSCANOmap: L2 - Fond. Vetrai, 94 - Murano ph. +39.041.0990079 - open daily

It is the new contemporary art galleryin Murano, the high standard ofmasterpieces is set by GianAndreaSeguso, the owner.

GALLERIA TOTEM - IL CANALEmap: D6 - Accademia, 878/B ph. +39.041.5223641 - +39.041.943158Open daily: 10am - 1pm • 3pm - 7pm

MELORI & ROSENBERGmap: D2 - Cannaregio, 2919 ph. +39.041.2750039/25Mon-Fri: 10am - 1pm • 3pm - 6pmClosed Sat and Sun afternoonVisits also by appointmentMelori & Rosenberg Gallery, since1996 in the Campo of the NewGhetto. The Italian sole representati-ve of Luigi Rocca, also exhibitingother Artists.

SANTO STEFANO ART GALLERYmap: E5 - San Marco, 2953 ph. +39.041.5234518

GIANFRANCO MEGGIATO ART GALLERYmap: D5 - San Marco, 3151 ph. +39.041.2413369 - Open daily

not to be missedda non perdere

BUGNO ART GALLERYS. Marco 1996 - ph. +39.041.5231305Open daily 10.30 a.m. - 12.30 p.m. and 4 p.m. - 7.30 p.m. Closed Sunday morning and Monday morning

On September 20, 2008 the Galleria Bugno willopen the new exhibition by MaurizioGalimberti, the photographer who becamefamous at a national level for his original wayof assembling “mosaics” with Polaroid photo-graphs. After the great success achieved lastyear with the New York theme, this timeGalimberti talks about Venice and he does sowith around ninety new works contained in avolume edited by Contrasto (leader in Italy inthe publication of photographic books) andwith the support of the critic Giuliao Scimé.The lagoon city, that Galimberti had alreadyanalysed in an exhibition presented at theGalleria Bugno and that was prefaced by thehistorian of photography Italo Zannier, is pre-sented as a diversified vision, encompassingan historic image of the city as well as a con-temporary one, where the everyday Venice isrecognized and that offers hints for analysisand comparison. The work “MaurizioGalimberti – Venice” is exclusively presentedby the Bugno Art Gallery of Venice and by theColombo Arte di Boviso Masciago (MI), the twohistoric galleries of the photographer.

Il 20 settembre 2008 la Galleria Bugno apre lanuova mostra di Maurizio Galimberti, il foto-grafo giunto alla ribalta nazionale per il suomodo originale di assemblare “mosaici” confotografie polaroid. Questa volta Galimbertiaffronta il tema “Venezia”, dopo la New Yorkche ha avuto tanto successo l'anno scorso, elo fa con una novantina di nuove opere, tutteracchiuse in un volume edito da Contrasto(leader nella pubblicazione in Italia di librifotografici) e con l'ausilio del critico GiulianaScimé. La città lagunare, che il Galimberti, aveva giàanalizzato, proprio in una mostra presentataalla Galleria Bugno, e che aveva avuto la pre-fazione dello storico della fotografia ItaloZannier, questa volta si dipana in una visione,molto variegata tra l'immagine storica dellacittà ed una visione molto contemporanea,dove si riconosce la Venezia di tutti i giorni eche fornisce molti spunti di analisi e di con-fronto. L'opera “Maurizio Galimberti – Venezia”é rappresentata in esclusiva dalla Bugno ArtGallery di Venezia e dalla Colombo Arte diBoviso Masciago (MI), le due gallerie storichedel fotografo.

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CHURCHES

BASILICA DI SAN MARCOmap: F5 - Piazza San Marco ph. +39.041.5225205 - Tickets: free thechurch, € 3.00 La Pala, € 3.00 il Tesoro.9.30am - 5pm, Sunday 2pm - 4pm

The most famous Basilica in Venice. Theexterior façades are decorated inByzantine style, with columns, bas-reliefs and coloured marble. On the ter-race stand four imposing gilded bronzehorses. The building has five largedomes. The church is decorated insidewith gilded mosaics and treasures repre-senting stories from the Bible.To see: La Pala d'Oro, il Tesoro.

SAN STAEmap: E3 - S.Croce, Campo S. Stae ph. +39.041.2750462 - Tickets: € 2.5010am - 5pm, Sunday 1pm - 5pm

Founded in the 12th century, this churchwas rebuilt during the 17th century and,at the beginning of the 18th century, itwas modified also its aspect, facing nowthe Grand Canal: the new façade madeby the architect Domenico Rossi. Thechurch contains a veritable compen-dium of Venetian 18th -century pain-tings including an early work by Tiepolo.To see: works by Tiepolo, Ricci, Piazzetta.

BASILICA DEI FRARI map: D4 - S. Polo, 3072 ph. +39.041.2728611 - Tickets: € 2.509am - 6pm, Sunday 1pm - 6pm

It is an example of Gothic architecturein Venice built between the 14th and15th century and laid out in the formof a Latin cross: it is composed of threenaves divided by twelve huge pillars.To see: the altar-piece “Madonna di casaPesaro” and “L'Assunta” by Tiziano, “LaVergine col bimbo” by Bellini, graves ofDoges and of captains of arms, monu-ments dedicated to Canova and Tiziano.

SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIOmap: D3 - Santa Croce ph. +39.041.2750462 - Tickets: € 2.5010am - 5pm, Sunday 1pm - 5pmThis church was probably built in the 9th

– 10th century in the area called “Luprio”from which - through various phoneticevolutions - the current name of Orioderives. The façade is Romanesque andthe interior is built on a Latin cross patternwith three naves and a large transept. To see: “La Crocifissione” by PaoloVeneziano, the altar-piece by LorenzoLotto, and the eucharistic themecycle by Jacopo Palma il Giovane.

SAN POLOmap: D4 - Campo San Polo ph. +39.041.2750462 - Tickets: € 2.5010am - 5pm, Sunday 1pm - 5pm

The church has Byzantine origins, butvery few remains of the ancient buil-ding, modified during the XV centuryand then restored at the beginning ofthe XIX by the architect Davide Rossi.He perfectly harmonized his Neo-Classical choises with the original lateGothic structure. To see: “L’apparizione della Vergineinnanzi a S. Giovanni Nepomuceno”by G.B. Tiepolo, the “Via Crucis” byGiandomenico Tiepolo.

MADONNA DELL'ORTOmap: E1 - Cannaregio, 3511 ph. +39.041.2750462 - Tickets: € 2.5010am - 5pm, Sunday 1pm - 5pm

Built in the middle of 1300, this chur-ch changed its original name (SanCristoforo) in Madonna dell’Ortowhen an imagine of the Virgin, foundin a garden nearby, was brought in thechurch itself. It is a typical VenetianGothic religious buildings. It wasTintoretto’s parish church and he isburied with his family in the chapel tothe right of the high altar.To see: works by J.Palma il Giovane andmany prodigious works by J.Tintoretto.

SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLOmap: L5 - C.po S. Pietro di Castelloph. +39.041.2750462 - Tickets: € 2.5010am - 5pm, Sunday 1pm - 5pmLegend has it that the church wasbuilt on the ancient Olivolo island,which was the first settlement of theinhabitants of Venice. The façade isby Smeraldi; the interior is built in a

CHURCHESCITY LISTING

Associazione Chiese di VeneziaThe Foundation for theChurches of Venice

Thanks to:

ChurchesSchoolsMonumentsCity Listing

ChieseScuoleMonumentiListing tematico

The Church of Santa Maria Formosa has existed from time immemorial; legend hasit that it was founded in the seventh century by St. Magnus, bishop of Oderzo, pur-suant to an apparition by the Blessed Virgin who told him the place where he wasto build a church dedicated to her honour. Mary appeared to him in the form of abeautiful, matronly woman, buxom and curvy (formosa) as the name of the chur-ch suggests. As time passed, the building was subjected to a series of renovations,especially in the ninth and twelfth centuries, and began to assume a Byzantine,Greek cross layout. By the end of the 15th century, the church was virtually left inruins and Mauro Codussi was hired to reconstruct it. Work began in 1492. Amongthe works of art conserved inside the church, extraordinary are the Polyptych ofSanta Barbara by Jacopo Palma Vecchio in the Chapel of the Scuola deiBombardieri, a work that made its author famous; opposite this is the brooding LastSupper by Leandro Bassano. In the Cappella della Concezione hangs the famedTriptych of the Madonna della Misericordia, a work by Murano artist, BartolomeoVivarini in the style of Mantegna.

La chiesa di Santa Maria Formosa ha origini antichissime; la leggenda narra che fu fondata nel VII secolo daSan Magno, vescovo di Oderzo, in seguito ad un’apparizione della Vergine che gli avrebbe indicato il luogodove edificare una chiesa a lei dedicata. La Madonna gli apparve sotto forma di una bellissima matrona, for-mosa appunto, da cui il nome della chiesa. Successivamente l’edificio ha subito parecchi restauri, special-mente nel IX e nel XII secolo, fino a presentare un impianto bizantino a croce greca. Sul finire del XV secolo laricostruzione della chiesa venne commissionata a Mauro Codussi. I lavori cominciarono nel 1492. Tra le opered'arte conservate in chiesa, sicuramente degne di ammirazione sono il Polittico di Santa Barbara di JacopoPalma il Vecchio nella Cappella della Scuola dei Bombardieri, opera che rese celebre il maestro, l’ombrosaUltima Cena di Leandro Bassano e, nella Cappella della Concezione, il celebre Trittico della Madonna dellaMisericordia, di stile mantegnesco, del muranese Bartolomeo Vivarini.

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the right side and of the triumphal arch.

BASILICA DI S.MARIA E DONATO map: L2 - Murano, c.po S. Donato 11ph. +39.041.739056 - Tickets: free9am -12pm, 3.30am - 7pm Sunday 3.30pm - 7pm

It is one of the most beautiful Venetian-Byzantine buildings of the 12th century.The exterior of the hexagonal apse isvery interesting, both for its architecturalbeauty and the wealth of its decorativeelements. Five columns of Greek marbledivide the interior into three naves.To see: the mosaic floor with decorativepatterns and symbolic pictures of animals.

SAN ZACCARIAmap: G5 - Castello, 4593 ph. +39.041.5221257 - Tickets: € 2.0010am - 12am, 4pm - 6pmSunday 14pm - 6pm

The old church, which belonged to thenuns of the convent bearing the samename, is located near the main church,which was built by Codussi between1480 and 1500. The new façade is atypical example of Venetian Renais-sance. Two rows of columns with beau-tiful capitals divided the interior intothree aisles. The great altar is surmoun-ted by a cross vault and a hemispheri-cal dome. The stunning interior is lite-rally covered with paintings.To see: the altarpiece “Vergine conputto in trono, Santi e Angeli musican-ti” by G. Bellini; the big painting“Trasporto processionale in S. Zaccariadei Corpi Santi” by A. Zanchi and otherworks by J. Palma il Giovane.

SANTA MARIA DEL ROSARIOCHIESA DEI GESUATImap: G5 - Zattere - Dorsoduro ph. +39.041.2750462 - Tickets: € 2.5010am -5pm, Sunday 1pm - 5pm

The church of the Jesuits was builtbetween 1726 and 1735, it was com-missioned by Dominicans, after theytook the place of the Jesuits, in order toreplace the small church that still standsbeside it. Giorgio Massari was the authorof the church’s design and of the internaldecoration, assisted by two great artistsof the period: Giambattista Tiepolo andGianmaria Morlaiter. The interior, withits single nave, side chapels and a deeppresbytery, is beautifully balanced. To see: the altarpiece and the ceiling byG.B. Tiepolo, the altarpiece byPiazzetta and “La Crocifissione” byTintoretto.

SANTO STEFANOmap: E5 - S.Marco, 3825 ph. +39.041.2750462 - Tickets: € 2.5010am -5pm, Sunday 1pm - 5pm

This is a magnificent example ofVenetian Gothic art. The 14th centuryfaçade is decorated with a splendid mar-

ble portal attributed to Bartolomeo Bon.The interior is divided into three widelongitudinal Greek marble naves, thepresbytery has interesting inlaid woodenchoir stalls and the ceiling is shaped likean inverted ship’s hull.To see: “La lavanda dei piedi” and“Cristo nell’orto” by J. Tintoretto; “IlBattesimo di Cristo” by Paris Bordone.

SAN GIOVANNI ELEMOSINARIOmap: E4 - Rialto, Ruga S. Giovanni ph. +39.041.2750462 - Tickets: € 2.5010am -5pm, Sunday 1pm - 5pm

The church of S. Giovanni Elemosinariowas founded before 1071, but nothingremains of the primitive building, due tothe devastating fire that swept throughthe Rialto area in 1514. The currentbuilding has simple and somewhat clas-sical interiors, richly decorated withmany works: token of the special devo-tion of the school of arts and trades thatused the church premises.To see: The altarpieces by Titian and byPordenone and the frescoes in thecupola came to light again during therestoration work.

SCHOOLS

SCUOLA GRANDE DI S.GIOVANNI EVANGELISTAmap: D4 - S.Polo, 2454ph. +39.041.718234 - Tickets: € 5.00Visit: booking is necessaryIt’s one of the six Scuole Grandi and,according to Venice history, art and cultu-re, it’s considered one of the greatest. Thebuilding is a splendid Renaissance archi-tecture example. The elegant doublestairway inside, lit with large arched win-dows, was built by Codussi. The beautifulexterior Renaissance iconostasis, with itscarved decoration, was designed by P.Lombardo.To see: the ceiling with visions of theApocalypse, works of great masters suchas G.B. Tiepolo, Diziani, Marieschi.

SCUOLA GRANDE DI S.ROCCOmap: D4 - San Polo, 3054 ph. +39.041.5234864 - Tickets: € 5.509am - 5.30pm

This 16th century Renaissance building,designed by Bartolomeo Bon, lodgesthe school dedicated to San Rocco, theprotector of plague-strickens. SanRocco archconfraternity’s seat is stillvery active in the organisation of cultu-ral meetings and concerts.To see: an extraordinary collection ofworks by Tintoretto, the numerous arttreasures of the 15th century, thehistoric Nacchini organ.

SCUOLA GRANDE DI S. MARCOmap: G4- CastelloCampo SS. Giovanni e Paolo

SCUOLA GRANDE DI S. TEODORO map: F4 - S. Marco, 4810 ph. +39.041.5287227 - Tickets: free9.30am -12pm • Closing day: Sat, Sun

SCUOLA GRANDE DELLA MISERICORDIAmap: E2 - F.ta della Misericordia

SCUOLA GRANDE DI S. MARIA DELLA CARITÀ map: D6 - Dorsoduro, 1050

Latin cross pattern, with one nave andtwo aisles and a large dome in thecentre of the transept. To see: “Il castigo dei Serpenti” byPietro Liberi and the mosaic altar-piece “Tutti i Santi” by A.Zuccato.

BASILICA DELLA SALUTEmap: E6 - Dorsoduro, 1 ph. +39.041.5225558 - Tickets: free9am - 12pm, 3pm - 6pm

In the middle of the 17th century,Venice was struck by a terrible pla-gue; in order to free the city, theRepublic of Venice’s Senate decidedthat a church should have been built,dedicated to the Virgin, asking her forHealth (salute). Between eleven planspresented, it was chosen the one byBaldassarre Longhena and works star-ted in 1631. He designed a templehaving a central area on an octagonalplan, dominated by a huge domewith great arches. To see: “Nozze di Caanan” by J.Tintoretto, “Pentecoste” by Tiziano, “LaMadonna Bizantina” work from the13th-century Greek-Byzantine school.Events: every year on November 21 theinhabitants process to the Salute for aservice of thanksgiving for deliverencefrom the palgue.

S. MARIA FORMOSA map: G4 - Castello, 5263 ph. 041.2750462 - Tickets: € 2.5010am - 5pm, Sunday 1pm - 5pm

According to the legend, this is one ofthe eight churches founded by St.Magno, Bishop of Oderzo, in the VIIcentury, and dedicated to the Virginwho appeared in a dream to theBishop. However, the church, as wecan see it nowadays, was built in 1492by Mauro Codussi, the leading archi-tect of the early Venetian Renaissance.The building has a Greek cross pat-tern, with three naves and the roof inthe shape of a cross vault.To see: the famous “Polittico” by J.Palma il Vecchio, “The Last Supper”by Leandro Bassano.

SANTA MARIA DEI MIRACOLImap: F4 - Cannaregio, 6063ph. +39.041.2750462 - Tickets: € 2.5010am - 5pm, Sunday 1pm - 5pm

The church was built between 1481and 1489 by Pietro Lombardo to

house the miracle-working image ofthe “Vergine tra due Santi”, work byNicolò di Pietro, worshipped by theinhabitants of Venice for her thauma-turgic power. The interior has onlyone nave and a barrel vaulted roof.To see: works by V.delle Destre,Lattanzio da Rimini, Pier Maria andGerolamo Pennacchi.

SANTISSIMO REDENTOREmap: E7 - Giudecca, 195 ph. +39.041.2750462 - Tickets: € 2.5010am - 5pm, Sunday 1pm - 5pmOne of the greatest examples of Palladio’sarchitecture, and by some considered hismasterpiece, this church was built as aresult of a motion carried by the Senateafter the plague that struck Venice in1576.It is a votive temple dedicated to theRedeemer. To see: works by D. Tintoretto, F. BassanoEvents: every year, on the thirdSunday of July, the temple is the desti-nation of a pilgrimage.

BASILICA DEI SS. GIOVANNI E PAOLOmap: G4 - Castello, 6363 ph. +39.041.5237510 - Tickets: € 2.509.30am - 6pm; Sunday 12pm - 6pm

It was built between the 14th and the15th centuries and it is the largestchurch in Venice. After S. Marco, thiswas considered an “official” temple: itwas used for the solemn obsequies ofthe dead Doges. The magnificent inte-rior is in the form of a Latin cross, it hasthree naves with a cross vault and apolygonal apse.To see: the monument to the DogePietro Mocenigo by T. Lombardo.

DEGLI SCALZImap: C3 - Cannaregio, 54 ph. +39.041.715115 - Tickets: free9am - 11.50am, 4pm - 6pm

Built by the Carmelites and dedicatedto Saint Mary of Nazareth, it was desi-gned by B. Longhena. The façade,made of Carrara marble, is an exam-ple of the Venetian Baroque style.Once there was also a marvellousvault frescoed by G.B. Tiepolo; unfor-tunately, in 1915 it was destroyed byAustrian bombs.To see: sculptures, gilt and polychroma-tic decorations and the fine marbles.

LA CATTEDRALE Isola di Torcello - ph. +39.041.73008410.30am - 5.30pm - Tickets: € 3.00

This is an 11th century Venetian-Byzantine building in the form of aRomanic Basilica. It is the oldestmonument of this type preserved inthe lagoon. The simple and solemninterior is made up of precious mar-bles and gilt mosaics. To see: the mosaics of the small apse on

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August the sixth 1932,on the Seaview Terraceof the Hotel Excelsior.

Rouben Mamoulian's “Dr.Jekyll and Mr. Hyde” began at9.15 p.m. The seats were fullof women in fine outfits andgentlemen in tuxedoes.This is how the First Exhibitionof Cinematographic Art started,as part of the 28th VeniceBiennale. There was no compe-tition and there were no awards,but an audience referendumwould name the best directorand the most enjoyable film. With that consecration of thefan worship that would alwaysmark the Festival. 1938 sawthe arrival of 519,00 touristsin Venice Lido. Those walkingalong the beach of the HotelDes Bains could even say helloto the Shah of Persia as he satin a cane chair with a cocktailin his hand. After an interrup-tion during the war, theFestival resumed in 1946 withscreenings at the San MarcoCinema. In 1949, internatio-nal cinema returned to theLido Cinema building to stay,making it the focal point forinternational society events inthe fifties and sixties when itwelcomed the top names inworld-class cinematography.

Sei agosto 1932, terrazzamare dell’Hotel Excelsior.Alle 21.15 inizia “Dr.

Jekyll and Mr. Hide” diRouben Mamoulian. Plateadi signore in fine toilettes,signori in Touxedo.Inizia così la “Prima esposizio-ne d’arte cinematografica”nell’ambito della 28. Biennaledi Venezia. Non c’è competi-zione, non ci saranno premi,ma un referendum fra il pub-blico indicherà il miglior regi-sta e il film più divertente. Sarà la consacrazione del divi-smo che accompagnerà persempre la mostra.Nel 1938 si registrano 519mila turisti al Lido di Venezia.Sulla spiaggia del Des Bains,camminando sulla spiaggia,c’era chi poteva salutare loScià di Persia seduto su unasedia in rattan con in mano uncocktail. Dopo la pausa bellicala Mostra riprende nel ’46 conle proiezioni al Cinema SanMarco. Dal ’49 il cinema inter-nazionale ritorna definitiva-mente al palazzo del Cinemadel Lido diventando negli anniCinquanta e Sessanta il centrodelle occasioni mondane inter-nazionali, ospitando i più gros-si nomi della cinematografiamondiale.

As every year the city attends the star parade that willcome down in lagoon a moment before their footbridge.

Come ogni anno la città attende la parata di stelle che scen-deranno in laguna un attimo prima della loro passerella.

Jack Nicholson and Sean Penn (1995)

Starsof Venice

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internationalfilm festival

Harrison Ford (1981) Richard Gere (2000)

Jennifer Lopez (1998)

Colin Farrel and Ewan McGregor (2007)

Nicole Kidman (2001)

Sophia Loren (1958)

Kirk Douglas and Silvana Mangano (1953)

Anna Magnani and Giulio Andreotti (1947)

Page 13: Venice Magazine 53

Monica Bellucci (2005)

Scarlett Johansson (2006)

Federico Fellini and Marcello Mastroianni (1991)

Charlie Chaplin (1972) Brad Pitt (2007) Paul Newman (1963)

David Lynch (2006)

Vittorio Gassman (1996) Keira Knightley and James McAvoy (2007)Adrian Brody (2007)

Sharon Stone and Clint Eastwood (2000)

Woody Allen (2007)

Page 14: Venice Magazine 53

© S

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LIDOthe Liberty Island

l’Isola Liberty

Fra un film e l’altro,aspettando l’arrivo del-l’ultimo divo di

Hollywood nei dieci giornidella Mostra del Cinema diVenezia, il Lido offre il suolato migliore. E sembra siatutto lì, in quel tratto fral’hotel Des Bains e il GrandHotel Excelsior. Ma non ècosì. Lo sviluppo del Lido diVenezia parte dalla costru-zione dei primi stabilimentibalneari, intorno al 1850, etrova il suo massimo splendo-re alla fine degli anni ’30. Inquel periodo, da tutto ilmondo, fioccano le commis-sioni ad architetti, soprattut-to veneziani, per la costruzio-ne di ville estive. La ricchez-za di committenza e la quasi

In between films, awaitingthe arrival of the latestHollywood star in the ten

days of the Venice FilmFestival, the Lido offers itsbest side. And it seems to beall there, in the space cove-ring the Hotel Des Bains andthe Grand Hotel Excelsior.But it is not so. The VeniceLido’s development began inaround 1850 with the con-struction of the first seasideresorts, and culminated in thelate ’30s. In that period com-missions to build summer vil-las rained down on architectsfrom all over the world, butmainly from Venice. Theircustomers’ wealth and thealmost absolute freedom todesign in a semi-deserted area

Aristocratic gentlemen and luxuriousladies in evening dresses, strolling - as thefashion required - with a greyhound ona leash. In the evening, parties flauntingexotic names: “Tableaux Vivantes” or“Oasi di Zanzibar”, danced to the rhythmsof the Foxtrot or Charleston. This was theBelle Epoque on the Lido.

Aristocratici signori e le vestitissime signore inabiti di seta passeggiano, com’è di moda,con un levriero al guinzaglio. Alla sera lefeste dai nomi esotici: “Tableaux vivantes” ol’”Oasi di Zanzibar”, al ritmo di Foxtrot o diCharleston. Era la Belle Epoque del Lido.

assoluta libertà di progettarein un ambiente semidesertoconsentono di sperimentareal Lido la novità di quella“art nouveau” che in Italiasarà chiamata “Liberty”.E molto resta di quei segniinconfondibili, opere diarchitetti come Sullam oTorres. Il nostro percorso può comin-ciare da villa Mon Plaisir inGran Viale, spesso definitauno dei più significativi edifi-ci di stile Liberty in Italia. E poi in via Lepanto l’hotelVilla Otello e la spledidavilla Romanelli. Solo per faredegli esempi, i particolarivengono lasciati ai visitatoripiù attenti. Non si possonoperò non ricordare l’hotelDes Bains e l’hotel Excelsior.Furono i veneziani Raffaelloe Francesco Marsich che idea-rono e realizzarono l’HotelDes Bains, in completo stileLiberty, inaugurato la seradel 5 luglio del 1900 alle 19. Fu poi Thomas Mann a farentrare di prepotenza il DesBains nella letteratura mon-diale, e per questo nell’im-maginario collettivo, dopo lapubblicazione di “Morte aVenezia” del 1911. Ed erano le 23 del 21 luglio1908: si festeggiava l’apertu-ra dell’Hotel Excelsior, losplendido albergo nato dal-l’intuizione del grande archi-tetto Nicolo’ Spada. Presenti più di tremila perso-nalità invitate da tutto ilmondo per l’occasione e piu’di 30.000 veneziani che, sidice, si riversarono al Lidoper assistere se pur da lonta-no al grande avvenimento.Già dal ’27 si potevano nota-re all’orizzonte le mongolfie-re dei clienti dell’Hotel o leprime fuoriserie, trasportatenell’isola in battello: l’IsottaMarchini, le prime Jaguar.

allowed experimenting at theLido with a style called “artnouveau”, which in Italywould be called “Liberty”.And so much remains ofthose distinctive touches,work by architects such asSullam or Torres. Our tourcould begin with Mon PlaisirVilla in Gran Viale, oftendefined as one of the mostsignificant art nouveau buil-dings in Italy. And then on tovia Lepanto’s Hotel VillaOtello and the splendidRomanelli Villa. The detailsare left to the attentive eyes ofthe most observant visitors,but the Hotel Des Bains andthe Hotel Excelsior cannot beoverlooked, just to mention afew examples.The Venetian architectsRaffaello and FrancescoMarsich designed and builtthe Hotel Des Bains, inaugu-rated at seven the evening on5 July 1900, wholly in art nou-veau style. Then ThomasMann introduced the HotelDes Bains forcefully intoworld literature, and thus intopeople’s imaginations, withthe publishing of “A Death inVenice” in 1911. And at ele-ven in the evening of 21 July1908 people were celebratingthe opening of the HotelExcelsior, the magnificenthotel dreamed up by the greatarchitect Nicolo’ Spada. Overthree thousand personalitiesfrom all over the world invi-ted for the occasion werethere, and more than 30,000Venetians who, they say, pou-red into the Lido to witnessthe great event, even if fromafar. Already back in 1927Hotel guests’ hot-air balloonscould be spotted in the skiesor the first custom-built carsseen, transported there byboat: the Isotta Marchini, thefirst Jaguars.SP

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shopping info

ACCESSORIES

COCCINELLEMercerie - San Marco, 4958map: F4 - ph. +39.041.2770658

Coccinelle is the brand that offerstoday’s woman the most suitablearray of coordinated accessories forevery occasion.

BORSALINOCalle del Lovo - San Marco, 4822map: F4 - ph. +39.041.2411945

GLASS ART

BERENGO FINE ARTSFondamenta dei Vetrai, 109/a - Muranomap: F5 - ph. +39.041.739453

FORMIAFondamenta Vetrai, 138 - Murano map: L2 - ph. +39.041.739285

SEGUSO VIRO GALLERYF.ta Venier, 29 - Muranomap: L2 - ph. +39.041.5275353

Exhibition of contemporary glass art,unique and limited editions.

FRATELLI BARBINI GLASS MIRRORFondamenta Serenella, 36 - Muranomap: L2 - ph. +39.041.739777

LINEA VETRO DI SIMONE CENEDESEFondamenta Vetrai, 68 - Muranomap: I2 - ph. +39.041.5274455On show the new collection“Evoluzione” designed and realizedby Simone Cenedese.

DOMUS VETRI D’ARTEFondamenta Vetrai, 82 - Muranomap: L2 - ph. +39.041.739215 Located along the main walkFondamenta Vetrai the shop also fea-tures wonderful pieces by SegusoViroand Alfredo Barbini.

SALVIATIFrezzeria - S.Marco, 1586-1588 map: F5 - ph. +39.041.2412687

VENINI Piazza San Marco, 314map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5224045

FERRO VETROCampo S.Stefano, 7 - Murano map: L2 - ph. +39.041.5275398

FerroVetro, situated in a squarein the heart of Murano, offers toits visitors a variety of differentart icles: costume jewellery,vases, sculptures, plates andglasses, all of them are exclusiveproducts.

DAVIDE PENSORiva Lunga, 48 - Murano map: L2 - ph. +39.041.5274634Jewelry designer, glass beadmaker.

MA.RECalle XXII Marzo - S.Marco, 2088 map: E5 - ph. +39.041.5231191

MANIN 56Fond.ta Manin, 56 - Muranomap: L2 - ph. +39.041.5275392

CLAUDIO TIOZZO GLASS STUDIORiva Longa, 23 - Muranomap: L2 - ph. +39.041.736710

VETRERIA ARTISTICA SCHIAVONFond.ta Vetrai, 7 - Muranomap: L3 - ph. +39.041.739396

GALLERIA REGINA Riva Longa, 25/a - Muranomap: L2 - ph. +39.041.739202

In the premises you can admire works byrenowned glass masters and famous painters.

BARBALICHSan Marco, 4800/bmap: F4 - ph. +39.041.5228183

NASONMORETTI STORE Fondamenta Manin, 52 - Murano map: L3 - ph. +39.041.5274866

ANTIQUES

ANTICHITA’ CESANACalle XXII Marzo - S.Marco, 2070map: E5 - ph. +39.041.5227789

LE ZOIECalle dei Boteri - S.Polo, 1566map: E4 - ph. +39.041.2758694In the atelier 'Le Zoie' you feel a reallove for art and beautiful things.Passionate antiques collector, MicheleDal Bon, offers a wide choice ofjewellery, watches, icon paintings andantique silver.

GIOIELLERIA CODOGNATOSan Marco, 1295 map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5225042

CLOTHING

AL DUCA D'AOSTA Mercerie - S. Marco, 4945/46map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5220733

BLACK WATCHCalle del Forno - San Marco, 4594map: E5 - ph. +39.041.5231945

LA COUPOLE MANCalle XXII Marzo - S.Marco, 2366map: E5 - ph. +39.041.5224243

LA COUPOLE WOMANCalle XXII Marzo - S.Marco, 2414map: E5 - ph. +39.041.2960555

LA COUPOLE BABYCalle XXII Marzo - S.Marco, 2254map: E5 - ph. +39.041.5231273

HIBISCUSCalle de l’Ogio - San Polo, 1060map: E4 - ph. +39.041.5208989 Offering you innovative and colourfulwomens wear; hand-made jewellery,scarves, bags and many “one-off”pieces.

Opening hours: 10 a.m. - 7.30 p.m.The listing proposes a directory ofthe best and original stores, organi-zed in product categories.It is a complete list, edited by theVM staff, able to satisfy all yourrequirements.

I negozi sono aperti dalle 10 a.m. alle7.30 p.m. Segue una selezione deimigliori e particolari esercizi com-merciali divisi per categoria mer-ceologica. Una vasta panoramica ingrado di rispondere a qualsiasi esi-genza: il tutto garantito da VM.

SERMONETA GLOVESCalle XXII Marzo - S.Marco, 2400/amap: E5 - ph. +39.041.2777852 www.sermonetagloves.com

MANDARINA DUCKMercerie - San Marco, 193 map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5223325

EMPORIUM ALVIERO MARTINISan Marco, 670 map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5235911

ACCESSORIZE SHOPMercerie del Capitello - S.Marco, 4944map: F4 - ph. +39.041.7241113Step out in style with Accessorize:applique bags, chunky jewelleryand all that you need in terms offashion accessories. Perfect also asgift ideas!

FERRARI STORESan Marco, 783 map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5225718

SHOPPINGguideAccessoriesAntiquesJeweller’s shopsBoutiques & GriffesHandicraft

San Marco, 4860 - ph. +39.041.5223427www.otticamantovani.it - [email protected]

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Artisan workshop and Atelierin Venice. Meeting place forartists and artisans. Heidicafésuggests you Ideas andIdiocies. Artistic expressions.Gift ideas. Furniture objectsand much more…

Laboratorio artigiano eAtelier in Venezia. Puntod’incontro di artisti e artigia-ni. Heidicafé vi propone Ideeo Idiozie. Espressioni artisti-che. Oggetti da regalo.Complementi d’arredo...

Calle Barbaria de le Tole - Castello, 6656ph. +39.041.2412589 - [email protected] - www.heidicafe.com

Page 16: Venice Magazine 53

CERIELLO Campo SS.Filippo e Giacomo, 4275map: G5 - ph. +39.041.5222062

CAMICERIA S. MARCO Calle Vallaresso - S. Marco, 1340map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5221432

LA TOURCalle Larga S. Marco, 287map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5225147

MARLY’SSan Marco, 1321map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5223851

LORO PIANAC. de l’Ascension - S. Marco, 1257/Amap: F5 - ph. +39.041.5222573

MISSONI SPORTS.Marco, 4918map. E5 – ph. +39.041.2771632

PIGNATONS.Marco, 80map. F5 – ph. +39.041.5224378

EMILIO PUCCIS.Marco, 1318map. F5 – ph. +39.041.5205733

ZETA SPORTS.Marco, 4668map. E5 – ph. +39.041.5220718

AS YOU LIKE VINTAGE BOUTIQUECannaregio, 5671 map: F4 - ph. +39.041.5209232 You can't buy style! Original one of a kindpieces to create your retrò look.

JEWELLERS

BULGARICalle XXII Marzo - S. Marco, 2282map: E5 - ph. +39.041.2410553

DAMIANISalizada S. Moisè - S. Marco, 1494map: F5 - ph. +39.041.2770661

TOKATZIANPiazza San Marco, 18map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5233821

GIANMARIA BUCCELLATIMercerie - San Marcomap: F5 - ph. +39.041.5226540

POMELLATOSan Marco, 1298map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5201048

SALVADORI Mercerie - San Marco, 5022map: F4 - ph. +39.041.5230609

CARTIERCampo S.Zulian - S. Marco, 606map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5222071

FREY WILLES.Marco, 53Map. F5 – ph. +39.041.5200807

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MICROMEGA OTTICASan Marco, 2436map: E5 - ph. +39.041.2960765

OTTICA MANTOVANISan Marco, 4860map: F4 - ph. +39.041.5223427

The oldest optic shop in the cityexclusive dealer for Theo and IDC.Prescription glasses ready in 30minutes.

HANDICRAFTS

HEIDICAFÉC.lle Barbaria de le Tole - Castello, 6656map: G4 - ph. +39.041.2412589

Just a couple of minutes walk fromCampo Ss. Giovanni e Paolo (10 minu-tes from S. Marco and Rialto), our cosyAtelier will offer you handmade works,artistic pottery, gift ideas and fancy fur-niture objects…”

VENETIA STUDIUMCalle XXII Marzo - S. Marco, 2403map: E5 - ph. +39.041.5236953 An extraordinary collection coming fromthe artistic partimony left by Fortuny.

LA PERLA LACESVia Galuppi, 287 BuranoPh. +39.041.730009

Walking through the main streetyou can find our three shops “LAPERLA” where you can admire thewhole exhibition of original hand-made laces and much more...

ATELIER MAREGAF.ta dell’Osmarin - Castello, 4968map: G5 - ph. +39.041.5223036C.po S. Rocco - San Polo, 3045/3046 map: D4 - ph. +39.041.5221634San Tomà - San Polo, 2940/bmap: D4 - ph. +39.041.717966

BOUTIQUE - GRIFFEARMANI JEANSCalle Goldoni - S. Marco, 4485SH

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BLUMARINECalle XXII Marzo - S.Marco, 2031map: E5 - ph. +39.041.5232754

BRUNO MAGLIFrezzeria - S. Marco, 1583/85map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5223472

BRUNO MAGLIS. Marco, 1302map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5227210

CALVIN KLEIN JEANSCalle Goldoni - San Marco, 4599map: E5 - ph. +39.041.5202164

DIESEL STORESalizada Pio X - San Marco, 5315/6map: F4 - ph. +39.041.2411937

ROBERTA DI CAMERINO BOUTIQUEPiazza San Marco, 127map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5210117

ROBERTA DI CAMERINO ATELIERCannaregio, 6359/Emap: F3 - ph. +39.041.2410440

REPLAY STORESan Marco, 4856/7map: F4 - ph. +39.041.2411936

CHANEL BOUTIQUESan Marco, 1254/Amap: F5 - ph. +39.041.5221851

CELINECalle Vallaresso, 1307map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5205733

DOLCE & GABBANA Mercerie - San Marco, 223/226map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5287933

FENDIS. Marco, 1474map: F5 - ph. +39.041.2778532

GIORGIO ARMANICalle Goldoni - S. Marco, 4412map: E5 - ph. +39.041.5234758

GUCCIMercerie - San Marco, 258map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5229119

HENRY COTTON’SCampo S. Luca - S. Marco, 4574map: E5 - ph. +39.041.5228485

HERMESProcuratie Vecchie - S. Marco, 127map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5210117

LACOSTEMercerie - San Marco, 218map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5237678

LOUIS VUITTONC. L. de l’Ascension - S.Marco, 1255map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5224500

LUISA SPAGNOLIMercerie - San Marco, 741

map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5237728

MALO C. delle Ostreghe - S. Marco, 2359map: E5 - ph. +39.041.5232162

MAX MARAMercerie - San Marco, 268map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5226688

MAX & COMercerie - San Marco, 5028map: F4 - ph. +39.041.5230817

MISSONICalle Vallaresso - S. Marco, 1312/Nmap: F5 - ph. +39.041.5205733

PAL ZILERIMercerie - San Marco, 4928map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5229020

PRADA STORECampo S. Moisè - S. Marco, 1469map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5283966

ROBERTO CAVALLICalle Vallaresso - S. Marco, 1316 map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5205733

SALVATORE FERRAGAMOCalle XXII Marzo - S. Marco, 2098map: E5 - ph. +39.041.2778509

TRUSSARDI UOMO DONNASpadaria - San Marco, 695map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5285757

VALENTINOCorte Foscara - S. Marco, 1473map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5205733

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNABocca di Piazza, S.Marco, 1241map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5221204

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA BOUTIQUEC/O THE WESTIN EXCELSIORLungomare Marconi, 41 - Lidoph. +39.041.2769385

BOTTEGA VENETASan Marco, 1337map: E5 - ph. +39.041.5228489

ETROSan Marco, 1349map: E5 - ph. +39.041.5221785

ERMANNO SCERVINOMercerie - San Marco, 4918map: F5

BALLYSan Marco, 4919map: F5 - ph. +39.041.5285839

VERSACESan Marco, 1462map: E5 - ph. +39.041.5200057

D&GSan Marco, 712map: E5 - ph. +39.041.2950502

MALIPARMIS.Marco, 4600/Amap. E5 - ph. +39.0415285608

MARINA RINALDISan Marco, 266 map. F5 – ph. +39.041.2770064

LACES AND HANDICRAFT

OF ART

MERLETTI EARTIGIANATO

D’ARTE

BURANOvia Galuppi, 287

ph. +39.041.730009www.laceinvenice.com

la PerlaBURANO

VETRO

FerroVetro is the result of architectGianmarco Ferro’s idea to offer uniqueobjects, rigorously hand-made and pro-duced in Murano. A part from the pro-duction of glass objects and lamps, hecan also boast the Glass Tree, Christmas2006 and Glass Star, Christmas 2007

FerroVetro nasce da un idea dell’archi-tetto Gianmarco Ferro di offrire pezziunici rigorosamente fatti a mano e pro-dotti a Murano. Nel suo curriculumoltre a lampade ed oggetti in vetro ancheil progetto dell’Albero in Vetro, Natale2006 e della Stella in Vetro, Natale 2007

MURANOCampo S. Stefano, 7ph. +39.041.5275398

www.ferrovetro.com

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DININGCITY LISTING

CLUB DEL DOGEHotel Gritti Palacemap E6 - S. Marco, 2467ph. +39.041.794611

RISTORANTE CA’ DEI FRATIHotel San ClementeSan Clemente islandph. +39.041.2445001

Exquisite delicacies of a classy cuisine.A dream to experience in the privacyof its luxury surroundings. Ten minutesby boat from St. Mark square.

RISTORANTE DO LEONIHotel Londra Palacemap G5 - S. Marco, 4171ph. +39.041.5200533

“A refined, innovative Venetian andVeneto cuisine awaits you in thesleek, elegant decor of the Do LeoniRestaurant, with its incomparableview of the Basin of St. Mark and theIsland of San Giorgio.”

ANTICO MARTINImap: E5 - Campo S. Fantin ph. +39.041.5224121 - Open daily

RISTORANTE AL BRINDISImap: D2 - Cannaregio, 307 ph. +39.041.716968 - Open daily

Traditional Venetian cuisine right inthe historical centre of the city, facingthe lovely campo S.Geremia. Easyreachable in five minutes walk fromthe station.

TRADITIONAL CUISINE

RISTORANTE CANOVALuna Hotel Baglionimap: F5 - San Marco, 1243 ph. +39.041.5289840

The “Baglioni wineclub” waits for youFriday 9 november at 8 pm for a spe-cial enogastronomic event: “the pro-portion of taste” a tour amongst theflavours of italian wines and cheeses.For more information please call thenumber above.

TERRAZZA DANIELI RESTAURANTHotel Danielimap G5 - S. Marco, 4196ph. +39.041.5226480

GRAND CANAL RESTAURANTHotel Monaco & Grand Canalmap: E6 - S. Marco, 1332ph. +39.041.5200211

A great cuisine made of Venetian andtraditional dishes, in a warm and char-ming setting with a breathtaking view.

AROMI RESTAURANTMolino Stucky Hilton Venicemap C6 - Giudecca island, 810ph. +39.041.2723311

Intimate and cosy, feauturing its ownluxorious cocktail bar and a drama-tic terrace with view of Venice.Complimentary shuttle to and fromS.Marco (S.Zaccaria) via Zattere.

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AL BRINDISICannaregio, 307Campo San Geremiatel. 041.716968www.albrindisi.it Al

Bri

ndis

iA traditional Venetian cuisine in the historical centre of the city. A short stroll away fromthe railway station.

La tradizione dellabuona cucina nel cuoredella città storica.A 5 minuti dalla stazioneferroviaria.

Close to La Fenice in Campo S. Angelo there is the Osteria Galileo. Owned andpersonally managed by Davide Bravetti, a venetian with the passion of the sim-ple venetian cuisine and its very typical dishes. The dried salted cod with polen-ta, the notorious “sarde in saor”, the “antipasto dell’Adriatico”, the taglioliniwith scampi and courgette, the spaghetti in clam sauce and the cuttlefish inkrisotto. Main courses feature the mixed grilled fish, the gilthead fillet withCarline thistle, and Adriatic fish fry. Top meat dishes are the traditional “fegatoalla vaneziana” (liver), the rosemary salted steak and the green pepper fillet . Alldesserts are home-made, they represent the ideal complement for your fullimmersion in the venetian cuisine. The layout is definitely lovely: the restaurantfaces the charming Campo St. Angelo, a quite and romantic place just 100 metresaway from St. Mark square.

Nei pressi del teatro La Fenice in Campo Sant’Angelo si trova l’OsteriaGalileo. Il titolare Davide Brevetti è un Veneziano con la passione della vec-chia e semplice cucina veneziana e i suoi piatti tipici come il baccalà con lapolenta, le famose “sarde in saor” l’antipasto dell’Adriatico, i tagliolini scam-pi e zucchine, gli spaghetti con le vongole e il risotto al nero di seppia. I secon-di piatti che ricordiamo sono la grigliata mista di mare, il filetto di orata allaCarlina e la frittura mista dell’Adriatico. La carne non è da meno con il tradi-zionalissimo fegato alla veneziana, la tagliata al rosmarino, il filetto al pepeverde. I dessert sono tutti fatti in casa e sono il complemento ideale a questafull immersion nella venezianità a cui contribuisce in parte anche l’atmosfera diCampo Sant’Angelo, un angolo tranquillo e romantico di Venezia che distacirca 100 metro da Piazza San Marco.

HOSTARIA GALILEO - Campo S.Angelo, 3593

Dining guide RestaurantsBacariPizzeriePastry-shops& the City Listing

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VenetianCuisine

Il sapore e il gusto della cucina veneziana nascono nelleisole, in tempo remoto. Piatti a base di pesce ma ancheortaggi e prodotti dell’uccellagione i cui sapori si sposano

e confondono, più tardi, con gli ingredienti e gli aromi di pro-dotti che vengono da lontano. Come infatti la diplomazia dellaSerenissima volgeva a Levante così la cucina veneziana nonpoteva rimanere estranea agli influssi orientali. Le stive dellecocche che solcavano il Mediterraneo traboccavano di aromi edroghe che portavano ai veneziani non solo ricchezza ma anchegusti nuovi. Ma i Veneziani, gente di mare e di commerci, capi-rono anche che quel cereale giallo come l'oro venuto da oltreoceano verso la metà del Cinquecento era ideale per far polen-ta al posto dei ceci, del miglio o del grano saraceno usati finoallora. Subito l'adottarono e ne diffusero la coltivazione. Perquanto il popolino lo chiamasse "turco", cioè straniero, quelgrano che da allora fu detto appunto granturco, divenne l'ali-mento base di tutto il Veneto. Né si lasciarono sfuggire il tac-chino e, soprattutto, i fagioli cucinati nella famosa “pasta efasioi“. Ma la caratteristica principale resta fedele alla lontanaorigine, quando pesca, caccia e orticoltura offrivano prodotti eingredienti.

THE RECIPEBLACK TAGLIOLINI WITH LEMON AND DILL-SPICED SALMONIngredients

200 g salmon fillet190 g coarse salt70 g refined sugar1 bunch of fresh dill1 lemon (only its peel)160 g black fresh tagliolini50 g butter

TAGLIOLINI NERI AL LIMONE ESALMONE ALL’ANETO

Ingredienti

200 g di filetto di salmone190 gr di sale grosso

70 gr di zucchero semolato1 mazzetto di aneto fresco

1 limone (solo buccia)160 gr tagliolini neri freschi

50 gr di burro

LA RICETTA

Take the fillet of salmon and remove allthe bones, place it in a small tray, cover ituniformly first with coarse salt and thenwith sugar. Marinate at a temperature of 8-10°. After acouple of hours, once it has been dried and wiped withkitchen blotting paper, place the dill leafs on it, wrapthe whole with clingfilm and leave it in the fridge for 1hour. Then, julienne cut the salmon.Meanwhile, finely dice the lemon peel, boil the taglio-lini, when they are ready place them in a pan with sof-tened butter and the diced lemon peel, cream the wholewith a bit of water used for boiling the tagliolini. Servethe tagliolini on a plate, place the julienne-cut salmonon top and garnish with a sprig of dill.

Prendere il filetto di salmone e levare tutte lelische, disporlo in un piccolo vassoio; cospargere ilsale grosso in modo uniforme sopra il salmone poilo zucchero e lasciare marinare ad una tempera-tura di 8 – 10°. Passate un paio d’ore, una voltasgorgato e asciugato il tutto con carta assorbente

da cucina, disporre sopra le foglie di aneto avvolgere nella pellicola e lascia-re in frigorifero per 1 ora, infine, tagliare il salmone a julienne. Nel frattem-po tagliare la buccia di limone a dadini finissimi portare a cottura i taglioli-ni da unire in una padella con burro ammorbidito e la buccia di limone,mantecare il tuttocon un po’ d’cqua di cottura. Servire i tagliolini in un piat-to disporci sopra la julienne e guarnire lo stesso con un rametto di aneto.

Bruno Bognolo chef del ristorante “Al Brindisi”

The taste and flavour of Venetian cooking originated in the

islands in remote times. These were seafood-based dishes aswell as vegetables and wildfowl, whose flavours would later

blend and intermix with ingredients and spices from far awaylands. Indeed, as Venice’s diplomacy turned to the East, Venetiancuisine could not remain unaffected by the Oriental influx. Theholds of ships ploughing the Mediterranean Sea overflowed withspices that brought Venetians not only riches, but also new fla-vours. But Venetians, traders and mariners, also understood thatthe golden yellow grain that arrived from beyond the ocean aroundthe mid-1500s was perfect for making polenta, replacing the chick-peas, millet or buckwheat used until then. They immediately adop-ted it and made its cultivation widespread. Despite the fact that thepopulace called it "turco" (Turkish), meaning ‘foreign’, the grainthat was henceforth called “granturco” (Turkish grain) became thestaple food of the entire Veneto region. Turkeys were not over-looked, nor were beans, an essential element in the famous “pastae fasioi”. Yet the main feature of Venetian cuisine remains faithfulto its remote origin, when fishing, hunting and horticulture sup-plied food products and ingredients.

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RistoranteRistorante

DO LEONIDO LEONIHOTEL LONDRA PALACE

Riva degli Schiavoni, 4171 - ph. + 39.041.5200533 - fax. [email protected] - www.hotelondra.it

A refined, innovative Venetianand Veneto cuisine awaits youin the sleek, elegant decor ofthe Do Leoni Restaurant, withits incomparable view of theBasin of St. Mark.

In un nuovo décor di raffinataeleganza e nel contesto delBacino di San Marco, il risto-rante Do Leoni propone unmenù selezionato anche di spe-cialità veneziane.

Campo S. M. del Giglio, 2497 - ph. +39.041.5208333 - www.hotelala.it

Best Italian wines bythe glass, fromagerie,international spirits andcocktails. Live piano-bar, country & jazzmusic. Open 7 days aweek, till Midnight.

I migliori vini italiani albicchiere, formaggi ecocktail internazionali.Live piano-bar, coun-try & jazz music.Aperto tutti i giornifino a mezzanotte.

The Mean Maria

Hos

teria

cucina tipica veneziana

GGaalliilleeoo

S.Marco, 3593Campo S. Angelo Tel. 041.5206393

Closing day:Tuesday

Booking request

LOCAL CUISINEAI QUATTRO RUSTEGHI map: D2 - Campo del Ghetto, 2888ph. +39.041.715160

BISTROT DE VENISEmap: F5 - S.Marco, 4685 ph. +39.041.5236651 - Open daily

TAVERNA CAMPIELLO DEL REMERmap: F4 - Cannaregio, 5701 ph. +39.349.3365168 - Open daily

LA PISCINAmap: D6 - Dorsoduro, 780-782 ph. +39.041.2413889 - Closed Mondays

ANTICHE CARAMPANEmap: D4 - Rio terà Carampane 1911 ph. +39.041.5240165Closed on Sun. afternoon and Mon.

Warm and intimate “trattoria”, theenticing menu is based on classic cui-sine blend to create a truly memora-ble dining experience. The restau-rant’s gracious outdoor terrace provi-des the opportunity to dine under thestars when weather permits.

AMERICAN BARS

TARNOWSKA’S AMERICAN BARHotel Alamap: E5 - Campo S. M. del Giglio ph. +39.041.5208333 - Open daily

Best Italian wines by the glass, froma-gerie, international spirits and cock-tails by Anna, Giannina e Rey. LivePiano-Bar music, Country & Jazzmusic. Excellent location, open 7days a week, till Midnight.

SKYLINE BAR Molino Stucky Hilton Venicemap C6 - Giudecca island, 810ph. +39.041.2723311

The “highest” cocktail bar in Venice,with an extraordinary panoramic viewover the city. Complimentary shuttleto and from S.Marco (S.Zaccaria) viaZattere.

HARRY’S BARmap F5 - San Marco, 1323ph. +39.041.5285777

CENTRALE RESTAURANT LOUNGEmap F5 - S. Marco, 1659/bph. +39.041.2960664

ETHNIC CUISINEArgentinianEL ARGENTINOmap: B5 - Dorsoduro, 2344 ph. +39.041.2412697 - Closed Tuesdays

MexicanIGUANA map: E2 - Cannaregio, 2515 ph. +39.041.713561 - Closed Mondays

BACARI & HOSTARIE

HOSTARIA GALILEOmap: E5 - C.po S.Angelo, 3593 ph. +39.041.5206393 - Closed Tuesdays

At the Galileo our chefs offer you tra-ditional Veneto Italian cooking ac-companied by a fine selection ofItalian wines. Charming is the stallageright in Campo S.Angelo.

CAFÉS

LA CAFFETTERIA CAFFÈ DEL DOGEmap: E4 - C.lle dei Cinque-S.Polo, 608

ph. +39.041.5227787 - Open daily

CAFFÈ LA PISCINAmap: D6 - Dorsoduro, 780-782 ph. +39.041.2413889 - Closed Mondays

Magic place with magnificent viewover the Giudecca canal. Tea roomwith home made buiscuits and cakes.This intimate restaurant offers simpleand traditional Mediterranean cuisine.

PASTRY & ICE SHOPS

PASTICCERIA DAL MASmap: C3 - Lista di Spagna, 150/a ph. +39.041.715101 - Closed TuesdaysWide range of pastries and cakesincluded typical Venetian speciali-ties. Everything freshly made in thepremises, 2 minutes walk from thetrain station.

PASTICCERIA TONOLOmap: D5 - Dorsoduro, 3764 ph. +39.041.5237209 - Open daily

Venetian TalesLEGGENDE VENEZIANE

di A. Toso Fei

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Alberto Toso Fei,from Murano,was born inVenice in 1966.Traveller and jour-nalist, he comesfrom one of theoldest glass blo-wing families onthe island. A pas-sionate resear-cher of history and local custums, hehas activated an internet site(www.venetianlegends.it). “Ve-netian legends and ghost sto-ries” (translated in English andFrench), “Veneziaenigma” and“Misteri della laguna e racconti distreghe” (availables only in the ori-ginal Italian version) can be foundin libraries (Elzeviro editions).

Alberto Toso Fei,muranese, è na-to a Venezia nel1966. Viaggiato-re e giornalista, di-scende da unadelle antiche fa-miglie di vetraidell'isola. Appas-sionato studiosodi storia e costu-

me locale, ha attivato un sitointernet (www.venetianlegends.it).“Leggende veneziane e storie difantasmi” (tradotto anche ininglese e francese), "Venezia-enigma" e “Misteri della laguna eracconti di streghe” (presentiattualmente nella sola edizioneitaliana) sono i suoi tre libri dati allestampe editi da Elzeviro.

Era una notte di novembre del 1919 e, ad aggravare la situa-zione di tante povere famiglie di corte Zurlin, a Castello, cisi era messo anche il tempo. Quella notte nevicava e lungoil canale di San Pietro transitava in una gondola coperta ilmedico personale del Patriarca di Venezia. "Aiuto, vi prego,aiutatemi!". Giunta che fu la gondola all'altezza della corte,il medico sentì delle invocazioni, e diede ordine di attracca-re. A riva, bagnata dalla neve e stretta sotto uno scialle logo-ro, stava una ragazzetta: "Dottore, vi prego, mia madre stamolto male. Vi scongiuro di visitarla". Dopo il primo attimodi sorpresa per il fatto che la ragazza - che lui non conosce-va - l'aveva riconosciuto come medico, il vecchio dottoreprese la borsa dei medicinali e la seguì all'interno dellacorte: entrato in un freddo appartamento, trovò una donnaammalata, che subito riconobbe come una sua ex domesti-ca. La donna aveva una polmonite. Il dottore fece quantoera possibile per darle sollievo, e si complimentò perchéaveva una figlia così amorosa. A queste parole, l'ammalatalo guardò con dolorosa sorpresa e mormorò: "Ma mia figliaè morta un mese fa!". Il medico non vi credette, ma ladonna gli rispose: "In quell'armadietto ci sono ancora le suescarpe e il suo scialle!". Il medico andò a verificare, e trovòle scarpe e lo stesso scialletto che ricopriva le spalle dellaragazza che l'aveva chiamato nella tormenta. Era ripiegatoed asciutto, nessuno poteva averlo indossato in quella nottedi neve. Ogni ricerca fu vana: la ragazza che lo aveva con-dotto dall'inferma non fu mai più ritrovata.

LO SCIALLE DELLA MORTA

It was a November night of 1919, and the conditions of manypoor families living in “Corte Zurlin”, in Castello, wasfurther worsened by bad weather. It was snowing. AlongSaint Peter’s canal a covered gondola with the personal doctorof the Patriarch of Venice was passing by. “Help, please, helpme!”. When the gondola arrived close to Corte Zurlin, thedoctor heard some cries and ordered to moor the gondola. Onthe shore, there was a young girl soaked by snow with a shawlwrapped around herself: “Doctor, please, my mother is veryill, she needs your help”. The doctor was initially surprised ofhaving been recognized as a doctor by that young girl, whomhe didn’t know. However he took his medicines bag and fol-lowed her. Inside a cold apartment he found an ill woman,whom he recognized as one of his former servants. She hadpneumonia. The doctor did his utmost to alleviate thewoman’s pain and told her she was lucky to have such aloving daughter. When the woman heard those words shelooked at the doctor with sad surprise and said “My daughterdied one month ago!”. The man couldn’t believe to what shewas saying but the woman added “Her shoes and her shawlare still there in that wardrobe”. When the man looked in thewardrobe he found the very shoes and shawl that the younggirl was wearing when she asked for help under the snow. Itwas dry and folded up, nobody could have worn it in thatsnowy night. All searches for the young girl who led them tothe ill woman were vain. Never again was she found.

THE SHAWL OF THE DEAD

© Vito Vecellio

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Events OUTDOORand

Aug 08 - Nov 08

GIROLAMO DAI LIBRI - PAINTER AND MINIATURIST OF THE RENAISSANCE OF VERONA

Curiosity

The exhibition features three works on loan: Canaletto’s “Le Procuratie Nuove al Caffè Florian” and “Piazza San Marco dal Porticodell'Ascensione” and Francesco Guardi’s “Piazza San Marco”. The scientific project curated by the major international experts ofCanaletto and of Venetian painting of the eighteenth century, that will feature around one hundred works by the Venetian master andby the major exponents of landscape art, is enriched with three new paintings on loan from the London National Gallery. Two of themare Canaletto’s masterpieces “Le Procuratie Nuove al Caffè Florian” and “Piazza San Marco dal Portico dell'Ascensione” and the thirdone is Francesco Guardi’s “Piazza San Marco”. The “Procuratie Nuove al Caffè Florian” is a veduta of the colonnade of the ProcuratieNuove seen from the right-hand side all the way down its end with a precise perspective, with Caffè Florian in the foreground. “PiazzaSan Marco dal Portico dell'Ascensione” is seen through the second arch from the north of the western colonnade. In Francesco Guardi’swork, Piazza San Marco is portrayed with the medieval cathedral and the tower bell in the background, the public offices of the seven-teenth century, the Procuratie Vecchie on the left-hand side, with shops and cafés on both sides.

Si tratta di due opere di Canaletto, Le Procuratie Nuove al Caffè Florian e Piazza San Marco dal Portico dell'Ascensione e unadi Francesco Guardi, Piazza San Marco. Il progetto scientifico, curato dai maggiori esperti a livello internazionale di Canalettoe della pittura veneziana del Settecento, che presenterà un centinaio di opere del maestro veneziano e dei maggiori espo-nenti del vedutismo, si arricchisce di tre nuovi eccezionali prestiti provenienti dalla National Gallery di Londra. Si tratta di duecapolavori di Canaletto, Le Procuratie Nuove al Caffè Florian e Piazza San Marco dal Portico dell'Ascensione e uno diFrancesco Guardi, Piazza San Marco. Le Procuratie Nuove al Caffè Florian è una veduta del colonnato delle Procuratie Nuove,visto sulla destra per tutta la sua lunghezza in una prospettiva precisa, con il caffè Florian in primo piano. La Piazza San Marcodal Portico dell'Ascensione è vista attraverso il secondo arco da nord del colonnato occidentale. Nell’opera di FrancescoGuardi, Piazza San Marco è rappresentata con la cattedrale medievale e il campanile sullo sfondo, gli uffici pubblici del sedi-cesimo secolo, le Procuratie Vecchie sulla sinistra e le Procuratie Nuove sulla destra, con negozi e caffè su entrambi i lati.

GIUSEPPE JAPPELLI - THE NEW PADUA. DRAWINGS OF THE ART MUSEUM

Exploring the exceptionally rich Paduan writings by Giuseppe Jappelli – rightly considered one of the most emblematic figures of theItalian culture of design of the first half of the nineteenth century, the most outstanding professional who worked in Padua during thoseyears – means retracing a clear project of the development of the city. The exhibition is a homage to one of the highest advocates of“civil architecture in Italy”, as well as the “ideal reconstruction” of Padua. On show over a hundred graphic tables accompanied withan interesting historic documentation that includes the diplomas of the various Academies of which Jappelli was a member, posters,the obituary and the architect’s original working tools. The small wooden house stands out among them. Moreover, the exhibition willfeature a number of architectural models, oil portraits, busts and prints depicting Jappelli himself, Pedrocchi and other prominent figu-res of the time. A fascinating cross section of an intense human adventure made of great successes but also of bitter disappointments.

Indagare nel ricchissimo cartolare patavino di Giuseppe Jappelli – a ragione considerato una delle figure più emblematiche dellacultura progettuale italiana della prima metà dell’Ottocento, il più importante professionista attivo a Padova in quegli anni – signifi-ca ripercorrere un lucido disegno di sviluppo della città. La mostra costituisce l’omaggio ad uno dei massimi propugnatori in Italiadell’“architettura civile”, ma rappresenta anche una “ricostruzione ideale” di Padova. Sono in esposizione oltre un centinaio di tavo-le grafiche, corredate da un’interessante documentazione storica che include i diplomi delle diverse Accademie di cui Jappelli eramembro, i manifesti, il necrologio e strumenti di lavoro originali dell’architetto. Tra questi spicca la cassetta da disegno. Vengono inol-tre presentati alcuni modelli architettonici, ritratti ad olio, busti e stampe raffiguranti lo stesso Jappelli, Pedrocchi e altri protagonistidel tempo. Uno spaccato affascinante di un’avventura umana intensa, fatta di grandi successi ma anche di cocenti delusioni.

FROM VENICEby car: 40 km.by train: 30 min.by bus: 55 min.

To see: Battistero di SanGiovanni, Palazzo deiTrecentoTR

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O

FROM VENICEby car: 120 km.by train: 100 min.by bus: 160 min.

To see: Arena, Piazza deiSignori, Piazza Brà, ArcheScaligere, Duomo.V

ERO

NA

FROM VENICEby car: 27 km.by train: 35 min.by bus: 60 min.

To see:Sant’Antonio churchPrato della ValleCappella degli Scrovegni PA

DO

VA

Treviso, Casa dei Carraresi . Info ph. +39.0422.513150. From October 23 to April 5.

Padova, Musei Civici agli Eremitani. Info ph. +39.049.82045450. Until November 4.

Here’s an exhibition as rare and refined as able to touch its visitors. It is the one dedicated to Girolamo Dai Libri, the extraor-dinary artist who worked in Verona between the end of the fifteenth century and half of the following century. The exhi-bition reunites, for the first time ever, the group of paintings created by the artist for the church Santa Maria in Organo thathad commissioned him his first great altarpiece and for which he worked for over 15 years. Thus, altar pieces, organ doorspainted by Girolamo together with Francesco Morone and two panels that used to decorate a wooden altarpiece car-ved by Giovanni for the Cappella della Muletta, recently recovered by the Fondazione Domus of Verona on the foreignantique market and presented to the public on this occasion, come thus back together. In Italy his name is still linkedabove all to his exceptional fame as a miniaturist, whereas at an international level he was particularly well-known andappreciated for his pictorial art. A shortcoming that the exhibition tries to overcome by presenting, vis-à-vis, the most signi-ficant “proofs” of what Girolamo was able to create in the art “of books” as well in the art of painting.

Ecco una mostra tanto rara e raffinata, quanto in grado di emozionare chiunque la visiterà. E' quella dedicata a Girolamo Dai Libri,lo straordinario artista attivo a Verona tra la fine del Quattrocento e la metà del secolo successivo. In mostra verrà riunito - per laprima volta - il gruppo di dipinti realizzati dall'artista per Santa Maria in Organo, la chiesa che gli commissionò la sua prima grandepala e per la quale continuò ad operare per oltre 15 anni. Tornano così insieme pale d'altare, ante d'organo dipinte da Girolamoin collaborazione con Francesco Morone, e due pannelli su tavola che decoravano un'ancona lignea intagliata da fra Giovanniper la cosiddetta cappella della Muletta, appena recuperate sul mercato antiquario estero dalla Fondazione Domus di Verona epresentate al pubblico in quest'occasione. In Italia il suo nome è ancora legato soprattutto alla fama di insuperabile miniatore, men-tre a livello internazionale la sua attività pittorica riscuote grande notorietà. Una lacuna, questa, che la mostra si propone di colma-re proponendo, vis-à-vis, le testimonianze più significative di ciò che Girolamo seppe creare nell'arte "dei libri" e di Girolamo pittore.

Verona, Museo di Castelvecchio, sala Boggian. Info ph. +39.045.8062611. Until February 15 2009.

CANALETTO - VENICE AND ITS SPLENDOURS

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OderzoCastelfranco

Asiago Conegliano

VittorioVeneto

Feltre

BELLUNO

TREVISO

MestreVICENZA

PADOVA

AbanoTerme

Soave

ROVIGO

Chioggia

VERONA

Cortinad'Ampezzo

CaorleJesolo

VENEZIA

Bassanodel Grappa

Marostica

MontelloLago diGarda

MainlandguideMestreRiviera del BrentaJesoloTrevisoCortinaAsolo...

and the city listing

PALLADIO 500. THE GREAT EXHIBITION

How could the son of a miller become on of the most outstanding architectsof the past five centuries? Unique shots recovered in over eighty museumsand libraries all over Europe enable us to see Palladio at work as he con-ceives his masterpieces, and that show the “forgotten” Palladio, that is tosay those projects which have never been carried out either because offinancial matters or because of his lack of time. To allow the public to com-prehend and appreciate the significance of such drawings, experts havecurated the creation of over thirty three-dimensional models that clarify thespatial development of the paper drawings. Over 40 paintings portrayingPalladio’s friends and enemies, marvellous landscapes by Canaletto andZuccarelli show Palladio’s buildings created for the English followers ofPalladian architecture of the 18th century, a real “Palladian show” that wasconceived two hundred years ago. Sculptures and small bronzes feature forthe first time the work by artists such as Vincenzo Grandi and Valerio Belliwho have played a key role in the training of the young Palladio.

Come è stato possibile che il figlio di un mugnaio sia diventato il più famo-so architetto degli ultimi cinque secoli? "Fotogrammi" unici, ritrovati in oltreottanta musei e biblioteche di tutta Europa consentono di coglierePalladio al lavoro, mentre concepisce i suoi capolavori, presentandoanche il Palladio dimenticato, vale a dire quei progetti mai realizzati o perragioni finanziarie oppure perché troppo avanzati per il suo tempo. Perconsentire al pubblico di comprendere e apprezzare la portata di questidisegni, gli esperti hanno curato la realizzazione di oltre trenta modelli tridi-mensionali che chiariscono lo sviluppo spaziale dei disegni tracciati neifogli di carta. Oltre 40 dipinti consentono di guardare in faccia gli amici e inemici di Palladio, splendide vedute di Canaletto e Zuccarelli mostrano gliedifici di Palladio realizzati per i palladianisti inglesi del Settecento, una verae propria "mostra palladiana" concepita duecento anni fa. Sculture ebronzetti presentano per la prima volta il lavoro di artisti come VincenzoGrandi e Valerio Belli fondamentali per la formazione del giovane Palladio.

PALAZZO BARBARAN DA PORTOVicenzaFrom September 20 2008 to January 6 2009INFO:www.andreapalladio500.it

FROM VENICEby car: 55 km.by train: 60 min.by bus: 100 min.

To see: Piazza dei Signori,Palazzo Chiericati, ParcoQueriniV

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H

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Ospedale

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Grande

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della Misericordia

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dell'Orio

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Chiesa diS.Pietro

Chiesa diS.Giuseppedi Castello

Chiesa diS.Francesco

da PaolaMuseoNavale

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SAN MARCO CANAL

Chiesa diS.Giovanniin Bragora

Chiesadella Pietà

Chiesa diS.Zaccaria

- Basilica S.Marco

- Museo Archeologico

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- Fond. Bevilacqua La Masa

- Biblioteca Marciana

Chiesa diS.Eufemia

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FondazioneGuggenheim

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dei Miracoli

Museo Diocesanodi Arte Sacra

GallerieDell'Accademia

(Scuola Grandedi S.Maria

della Carità)

GalleriaFranchettiCa' D'oro

Chiesa diS.Giovanni

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Chiesa diS.Vidal

Chiesa diS.Marcuola

Chiesa diS.Fosca

Chiesa dellaMaddalena

Ca' Pesaro

FondazioneQuerini Stampalia

Chiesa dellaMadonna dell'Orto

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Santa Mariadegli Angeli

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Trevisan

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Serenella

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VENEZIA

A B C D E F G H I L

1

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4

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1

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A B C D E F G H I L

7

DRINKING & DRIVING - AUTOMOBILE SPEED LIMITSAllowable alcohol quantity in blood while dri-ving an automobile is 0,5 g/kg.Highway: 130 km/h, Main Roads: 90 km/h,Populated Areas: 50 km/h.

INTERNATIONAL CODE NUMBERAustralia 0061Austria 0043Belgio 0032Brasile 0055Canada 001Danimarca 0045Francia 0033Germania 0049Giappone 0081Gran Bretagna 0044Grecia 0030Hong Kong 00852Irlanda 00353Lituania 00370

Malta 00356Messico 0052Monaco 00377Holland 0031Polonia 0048Portogallo 00351Rep. Ceca 00420Romania 0040Spagna 0034Sudafrica 0027Svezia 0046Svizzera 0041Ungheria 0036USA 001

Cannaregio, 149Tel. +39.041.2758217Fax +39.041.716185

[email protected]

Just 2 minutes walkfrom the train station

Page 22: Venice Magazine 53

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APPARTAMENTI

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CONSOLATI

AMBASCIATE

La City Guide di Venezia. Mensiledi informazione distribuito free-press nei migliori Hotel e nelle

location più strategiche.

Lido Hoteliers Associations

The Foundation forthe Churches of Venice

NIO s.r.l. via A. da Mestre, 19 - 30172 - Venezia-Mestre tel. +39.041.5454536 - fax +39.041.5454536

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Hoteliers Association of the Venetian Mainland

VeneziaTerminal Passeggeri

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SAN SEBASTIANO SOFITEL SPLENDID SUISSEWILDNER3 - stars HOTELS ***ABBAZIA ACC.A VILLA MARAVEGE AL CANALETTOAL PIAVE AL PONTE ANTICO AL SOLE ALA ALL'ANGELO ALLE GUGLIE AMERICAN ANASTASIA ANTICA CASA CARRETTONI ANTICALOCANDAALGAMBEROANTICHE FIGURE ANTICO DOGEAPOSTOLI PALACE ARLECCHINO ART DÈCOATENEO BASILEA BELLE ARTI BEL SITO & BERLINO BISANZIO BRIDGE CA' D’OROCA' DEL CAMPOCA' DOGARESSACAMPIELLOCANALCANALETTOCA' POZZOCAPRI CASANOVA CASTELLO CENTAURO COMMERCIO E PELLEGRINO CONTINENTAL DA BRUNO DE L'ALBORO DOGEDOMINA PRESTIGEDO POZZI EDEN FIRENZE

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FLORAGARDENA GORIZIAGRASPO DE UAIL MERCANTE DI VENEZIA ISTITUTO CILIOTA LA CALCINA LA FENICE ET DES ARTISTES LA FORCOLA LA LOCANDA DI ORSARIALA LOCANDIERALANTERNA DI MARCO POLOLISBONALOCANDA AI SS. APOSTOLI LOCANDA CA’ ZOSE LOCANDA CASA QUERINI LOCANDA CASA VERARDOLOCANDA HERION LOCANDA OVIDIUS LOCANDA S.BARNABA LOCANDA STURION LUX MALIBRAN MARCONI MONTECARLO NAZIONALE OLIMPIA PAGANELLIPALAZZO ROSAPALAZZO VITTURI PANADA PANTALON PAUSANIA RIALTO SCANDINAVIA S.CASSIANO CA' FAVRETTO S.CHIARA S.GALLO S.MOISE' SPAGNA S.SIMEON AI DO FANALI S.STEFANO S.ZULIAN TINTORETTO TORINO TRE ARCHI UNIVERSO & NORDVECELLIOVIOLINO D'ORO

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Venice5 - stars HOTELS *****BAUERCA’ SAGREDOG.H.PALAZZO DEI DOGIMOLINO STUCKY HILTON VENICELUNA BAGLIONISAN CLEMENTE PALACE4 - stars HOTELS ****AI MORI D’ORIENTEA LA COMMEDIAAL PONTE DEI SOSPIRIAMADEUS AMBASSADORBELLA VENEZIABELLINI BONVECCHIATI CA' DEI CONTICA' NIGRACA' PISANICA' VENDRAMINCA MARIA ADELECARLTON & GRAND CANAL CIPRIANI COLOMBINACONCORDIA DUODO PALACE FOSCARI PALACEGABRIELLI SANDWIRTH GIORGIONEKETTE LIASSIDI PALACE LOCANDA VIVALDI LONDRA PALACE MANIN MONACO & GRAN CANAL PALAZZO DEL GIGLIO PALAZZO LA SCALA PALAZZO PRIULI PALAZZO SANT’ANGELO PALAZZO VENDRAMIN PRINCIPE RESIDENZA CANNAREGIO SANT’ELENA SANTA MARINA SATURNIA & INTERNATIONAL SAVOIA & JOLANDA

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Page 23: Venice Magazine 53

VENEZIA - MERCERIE SAN MARCO, 4958 - PH. +39.041.2770658CO

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