CORE 301: Modes of InquiryFood and Class in Los Angeles

Spring 2018, Dates: May 14 - June 11 Office Hours: Thursdays 2-3pm, and by appointmentemail: petitti@usc.edu

CORE 301: Modes of InquiryFood and Class in Los Angeles

I. Course Objectives

Investigate the complicated intersections of food and class—economic enclaves of enculturation—to see how people negotiate them throughout Los Angeles, especially in neighborhoods in proximity to USC (Boyle Heights, Monterey Park, Arcadia, San Gabriel, Compton, and Watts)

Experience firsthand the financial benefits, consequences, and setbacks of food production and consumption within a city widely considered the epicenter of America’s obsessive food culture

Explore the economic effects of attempting to manifest and maintain an international food city in harmony with Los Angeles’ diverse urban population, by examining issues of immigration, capitalism, and globalism

Meet with various members of the local food community and other high-profile individuals associated with the Los Angeles food scene in order to better comprehend the history, ecological and human toll, and ramifications of catering to countless palettes and income-levels

Understand how food connects communities and cultures throughout Los Angeles, and the ways it can divide

Witness how an array of individuals can use culinary expertise to empower themselves, their families, their colleagues, and their communities

Unearth the hidden economies, political ramifications, and abundant culture associated with food in Los Angeles. Engage directly with growers, laborers, cooks, chefs, critics, and activists who are working to provide consumers a richer, fuller picture of what it means for Los Angeles to maintain an authentic and celebrated food scene

II. Brief Course Description and Weekly Topics

From renowned Korean-Mexican fusion served from a truck (Kogi), to food the New York Times has praised as “highly Instagrammable” (Botanica), Los Angeles has stabilized from a renowned food scene to an international food mecca. In fact, the food scene in Los Angeles is so globally appealing that Jonathan Gold, the city’s most prominent food critic, has both won a Pulitzer Prize and been the subject of a feature-length, award-winning documentary. But, the A-list chefs, celebrity clientele, and famed or hidden gems of Los Angeles’ food scene only reveal half the story about how Los Angeles eats and why.

Undergirding the success stories connected to the thriving food scene in Los Angeles—the taco truck or strip mall noodle shop that gets a major boost through features in newspaper or on television—major discrepancies abound: the global finance that masks exploitative business practices, the market research contrasted against the willfully ignored food deserts, and the celebration of farm-to-table as food scarcity lurks in the shadows. In other words, issues of food in Los Angeles are often issues of class. How can eat where and what and why is itself a matter of class. Heightened visibility for the food

CORE 301: Modes of InquiryFood and Class in Los Angeles

scene in Los Angeles demands we take a closer look at how food serves as a conduit for class-based issues throughout Los Angeles.

During our “semester” (Maymester), students will explore Los Angeles’ food scene in order to uncover the issues of class often hidden in plain sight. Students will read articles and literature, listen to podcasts and albums, watch films and television programs, and converse with an assortment of guest speakers in order to comprehensively track the current progression and stratification of Los Angeles’ food scene. Additionally, various in-class and on-site speakers—including Jonathan Gold and Roy Choi—will help students understand the issues inherent to every restaurant and neighborhood they visit, and to comprehend the efforts being made to ethically sustain and celebrate the various cuisines of Los Angeles. Through research, writing, presentations, and their own food-preparation, students will discover how food has class-based limits, but how that doesn’t mean food can’t still be used as a tool for advancement, resolution, and empowerment. All students should walk away from our course with a clearer idea of how class imprints itself on every dish, chef, and consumer that make up Los Angeles’ brilliant food scene.

III. Weekly Agenda

Week 1:Los Angeles is home to approximately 4 million individuals—a number sometimes estimated to be as high as 17 million when including L.A. County suburbs and homeless populations. As the saying goes, that’s a lot of mouths to feed, so naturally the question becomes: how? Students will spend the first week of the semester reading about the history of food sustainability in Los Angeles—with an emphasis on the neighborhoods we will be visiting in the ensuing weeks—and how the city figures into what is sometimes dubbed “the global industrial food system.” Through readings, in-class discussions, Tumblr posts, and guest speakers, students will finish our first week with a clearer understanding of the inherent concerns attached to feeding the enormous urban population of Los Angeles and the role class plays in who eats what, when, and why.

Week 2:For the second week of our semester, students will split time between the classroom and East Los Angeles in order to explore the food scene and class-based issues attendant to the population in the area, particularly the Latino population. Through exploratory trips down Cesar E. Chavez Avenue, including stops at the Evergreen Cemetery and El Mercadito Mariachi, students will learn about the history and evolution of Latino food in Los Angeles—including the racist redlining practices that transformed East Los Angeles into an enclave for Jewish, Russian, Japanese, and Mexican-American populations that the city sought to box out of other neighborhoods. Columnist Gustavo Arellano (Ask A Mexican) and Defend Boyle Heights activists will talk to students about food, class, and Latino culture. Meanwhile, USC professor Sarah Portnoy will also serve as a guide for the area, and students will be reading extensively from her book Food, Health, and

CORE 301: Modes of InquiryFood and Class in Los Angeles

Culture in Los Angeles to better understand the class-based food issues the current Latino population of East Los Angeles encounters.

Week 3: On the third week, students will again split time between the classroom and greater Los Angeles to focus on South Los Angeles. Students will discover how community activists have worked to integrate more green spaces and farmers markets into neighborhoods that have been previously catalogued as food deserts. Guest speakers this week will include Garrett Broad, whose More Than Food: Food Justice and Community Change focuses on South Los Angeles, the culinary minds behind Trap Kitchen and All Flavor No Grease—local chefs and entrepreneurs doing their part to educate and update the food culture of South Los Angeles—the “Gangsta Gardener” Ron Finely, LMU English Professor Paul Harris, who has written extensively on the Watts Towers, and Roy Choi, famed chef and restaurateur, who is attempting to generate a change in class-based food consumption in South L.A. through his LocoL restaurant.

Week 4: The fourth and final week of the semester will focus on the latest immigrant population beset with the blessings and curses of being caught in Los Angeles’ food spotlight: the Chinese populations of The San Gabriel Valley. Students will again split time between the classroom and the neighborhoods Northeast of campus in order to understand the vast divide between the Chinese-American population who has long-settled the area, and the new class of Chinese immigrants bringing in a variety of food and class-based intrigue. Helping us navigate the issues of class as it relates to the ever-shifting and swelling food scene of The San Gabriel Valley will be Pulitzer-Prize winning food critic Jonathan Gold, who has been charting the protean food scene in the area for decades. Students will conclude the week and our semester in the classroom with a class potluck, where each student will be responsible for a “soup and sermon.” (More details below.)

IV. Assignments

Attendance and Class Discussion (15%) -- Attendance at each session is mandatory, and our weeks will be jam-packed. It will be loads of fun, but it will involve many hours in buses and cars, as well as walking and, of course, eating. Class discussions will be focused on our readings and the myriad questions that will arise from our trips and encounters with speakers and local populations. This portion of a student’s grade will be determined by a combination of attendance and participation in discussions and field trips. Attendance at all field trips and excursions is mandatory. Except in cases of serious illness, attendance for the entirety of the classes/excursions is expected, as we are condensing an entire semester in four weeks, every session is essential.

Field Trip Tumblr (25%)—Throughout the semester, students will travel to diverse neighborhoods of Los Angeles, meeting and talking with people from or familiar with the areas, witnessing various aspects of food production and consumption, and eating an

CORE 301: Modes of InquiryFood and Class in Los Angeles

assortment of food. Therefore, I would like each student to anticipate bringing along a device to capture what they witness and take notes; a smartphone is an ideal device for this portion of the assignment, but a trusty pad and pen work just as well. After each field trip—not our various meet-ups or excursions—each student is expected to upload (within 24 hours of the trip) a post on our course Tumblr that provides a brief analysis of some aspect of our visit (300 words). If you have captured images on your smartphone, which is recommended, attach those as well with captions. (If not, I recommend culling images from online that correspond to your post.) Students cannot possibly—nor should try to—write about everyone they meet or every observation they make, so part of the grade on these Tumblr posts will be assessing evidence of clever editorial choices made. The expectations for these posts may be loose, but each post should be analytical about some element of each trip. Students should avoid value-judgments (things are good or bad) and diarist tendencies. For instance, a student could write about how a proprietor’s background connects to their commitment to their restaurant in East Los Angeles, while commenting on the practicality or necessity of sidewalk gardens in South Los Angeles—providing images of each. (We will discuss the ethics of taking photos and quoting on these trips prior to our first field trip.) I would challenge each student to focus on a different aspect for each visit by keeping in mind issues of audience. Ask yourself: what do people want to see and read about and why? How might you convey your observations in a way that’s illuminating and entertaining? And so on.

Presentation (25%) – At some point during the semester, each student will present (for 10 minutes) on one of the issues of food and class we are examining in the course. Further directions, and sign-up times, will be provided early in the semester. Research Paper/Potluck (35%) – The major assignments for the semester will require each student to investigate a particular aspect of the intersection of food and class in Los Angeles, as well as personally. I will meet individually with students after the first week of the semester, once some groundwork has been laid, to help everyone choose a topic for the research paper and a dish for the potluck. The research papers should be 6-8 pages long, and they must include a Works Cited page. All papers will be due by Sunday, June 10th. The potluck will be held during our final class session on Friday, June 8, and further details can be found on that day in the calendar.

Schedule of Classes

Week one (Introduction to issues of food and class)

May 14, Monday (10am-2pm) 10 AM: Brief introductions and opening lecture on food and class in Los Angeles.

Major areas of emphasis: what do we mean by “class” and how why does it matter when it comes to issues of food (production, distribution, consumption) in Los Angeles?

CORE 301: Modes of InquiryFood and Class in Los Angeles

12:30 PM: Extended introductions (reason for taking the class? ideas about what “class” means and how it connects to food?) and conversation over Yucatecán cuisine near USC at Chichén Itza at the Mercado La Paloma, 3655 S Grand Ave.

Readings for Day 1: 1. Fuster, Melissa, “Food and Class,” Encyclopedia of Food and Agricultural Ethics.

Eds. David Kaplan and Paul Thompson (Dordrecht, 2014)2. Kitroeff, Natalie, “Workers Celebrate L.A.’s new $12 Minimum Wage,

Businesses Brace for Impact,” Los Angeles Times, http://www.latimes.com/business/la-fi-minimum-wage-los-angeles-20170701-story.html

May 15, Tuesday (10am-2pm) 10 AM: Discussion of East Los Angeles and questions of immigration,

gentrification, and food. 12:30 PM: Lunch and further conversation at Al & Bea’s, 2025 E. 1st St.

Readings for Day 2: 1. Portnoy, Sarah, “From Tamale Wagons to California Burritos: A History of

Latino Food in Los Angeles,” Food, Health, and Culture in Latino Los Angeles (Rowman & Littlefield, 2016)

2. Times Editorial Board, “Boyle Heights Anti-Gentrification Activists Hurt Their Cause by Making it About Race, Rather Than Economics,” Los Angeles Times, http://www.latimes.com/opinion/editorials/la-ed-gentrification-boyle-heights-race-20170721-story.html

May 16, Wednesday (10am-2pm)

10 AM: Discussion of South Los Angeles and the changing face of its food culture, including reformed gang member chefs and battles over healthier options and farms.

12:30 PM: Lunch and continued discussion at All Flavor No Grease, 728 E. 108 th

St.

Readings for Day 3: 1. Sutter, Lesley, “Inside Roy Choi and Daniel Patterson’s Quest to Transform Fast

Food, and Maybe the Entire Restaurant Business,” Los Angeles Magazine, http://www.lamag.com/digestblog/fast-food-remedy/

2. Swann, Jennifer, “South L.A. ‘Gangsta Gardener’ Ron Finley Fights to Save His Garden From Eviction,” LA Weekly, http://www.laweekly.com/restaurants/south-la-gangsta-gardener-ron-finley-fights-to-save-his-garden-from-eviction-7790627

3. Zhang, Beidi, “How a Compton Farm is Educating Kids One Bite at a Time,” KPCC, http://www.scpr.org/programs/take-two/2017/07/19/58018/how-a-compton-farm-is-educating-kids-one-bite-at-a/

May 17, Thursday (10am-2pm)

CORE 301: Modes of InquiryFood and Class in Los Angeles

10 AM: Discussion of Chinese and Chinese-American class and food culture from historic Los Angeles’ Chinatown to the current scenes in the San Gabriel Valley, including discussions of immigration and assimilation

12:30 PM: Continue discussion over lunch at Hip Hot, 500 N. Atlantic Blvd. #149

Readings for Day 4: 1. Debra Gimlin and David Inglis, “Food Globalizations: Ironies and Ambivalences

of Food, Cuisine and Globality,” The Globalization of Food (Oxford: Berg, 2009), 3-32

2. Shyong, Frank, “Southland’s New Wave of Chinese Restaurants are About a Lot More Than Takeout, Los Angeles Times, http://www.latimes.com/local/lanow/la-me-chinese-restaurants-immigration-20161020-snap-story.html

May 18, Friday (12pm-4pm) 12 PM: Review newest ideas of food and class after first week of readings, guest

speakers, and visits. Discuss upcoming weeks and trips. 2:00 PM: How the other half lives (in three words): Lunch at Spago, 176 N.

Canon Dr.

Readings for Day 5:1. Avins, Mimi, “The Last Days of Spago, Los Angeles Times,

http://articles.latimes.com/2001/mar/19/news/cl-395852. Gold, Jonathan, “Jonathan Gold’s 101 Best Restaurants, 2016: The Top 10,”

Los Angeles Times, http://www.latimes.com/food/dailydish/la-dd-gold-101-2016-top-10-20161020-snap-story.html

Week Two (East Los Angeles)

May 21, Monday (10am-3pm) 10 AM: Feld trip to Evergreen Cemetery, 204 N. Evergreen Ave. for tour and

discussion about East Los Angeles history, food, and class-based issues. Bus will leave campus at 10am, promptly.

1:00 PM: Walk to El Mercadito Mariachi, 3425 E. 1st St., for lunch and visit. 3:00 PM: Bus leaves for campus from El Mercadito Mariachi.

May 22, Tuesday (10am-3pm) 10 AM: Mini-lecture on gentrification and Boyle Heights. 11 AM: In-class presentations on East Los Angeles. 1 PM: Lunch and conversation at Guisados, 2100 E. Cesar Chavez Ave. with

Defend Boyle Heights activists.

May 23, Wednesday (11am-2pm) 11 AM: Meet at Mariachi Plaza, 730 Pleasant Ave., for discussion with Dr. Sarah

Portnoy.

CORE 301: Modes of InquiryFood and Class in Los Angeles

1 PM: Lunch and continued conversation at Mariscos Jalisco, 3040 E. Olympic Blvd.

May 24, Thursday (12pm-1pm) 12 PM: Meet at Lupe’s #2, 4642 E. 3rd St., or El Tepeyac, 812 N. Evergreen Ave.,

for lunch and discussion with Gustavo Arellano. (Gustavo will select our restaurant).

May 25, Friday (11am-2pm) 11 AM: In-class presentations on East Los Angeles. 1 PM: Final conversations and lunch at La Azteca, 4538 E. Cesar Chavez Ave.

Readings/Watching/Listening for Week Two:1. Carroll, Rory, “‘Hope Everyone Pukes on Your Artisnal Treats’: Fighting

Gentrification, LA-Style,” The Guardian, https://www.theguardian.com/us-news/2016/apr/19/los-angeles-la-gentrification-resistance-boyle-heights

2. Cooder, Ry, Chavez Ravine (2005)3. Gardner, Scott, “Neighborhood Spotlight: East Los Angeles a Physical

Homeland and Cultural Touchstone,” Los Angeles, http://www.latimes.com/business/realestate/hot-property/la-fi-hp-neighborhood-spotlight-east-los-angeles-20170114-story.html

4. Mejia, Brittny, “Gentrification Pushes Up Against Boyle Heights—and Vice Versa,” Los Angeles Times, http://www.latimes.com/local/california/la-me-las-palomas-gentrification-20160303-story.html

5. Nazaryan, Alexander, “The ‘Artwashing’ of America: The Battle for the Soul of Los Angeles Against Gentrification, Newsweek, http://www.newsweek.com/2017/06/02/los-angeles-gentrification-california-developers-art-galleries-la-art-scene-608558.html

6. Pilcher, Jeffrey, Planet Taco: A Global History of Mexican Food (New York: Oxford University Press, 2012)

7. Portnoy, Sarah, “From Border Grill to Broken Spanish: The Evolution of Latino Cuisine in Los Angeles.” Food, Health and Culture in Latino Los Angeles (Rowman & Littlefield, 2016)

Week Three (South Los Angeles)

May 28, Monday (10am-3pm) 10 AM: Field Trip to Watts Towers, 1727 E. 107th St., for tour and discussion

with LMU English Professor Paul Harris. Bus will leave from campus at 10am, promptly.

1:30 PM: Lunch and further discussion at LocoL, 1950 E. 103 rd St. with Garrett Broad.

2:30 PM: Bus leaves LocoL for campus.

May 29, Tuesday (10am-2pm)

CORE 301: Modes of InquiryFood and Class in Los Angeles

10 AM: Mini-lecture on gardens, farmer’s markets, and food choice in South Los Angeles.

11 AM: In-class presentations on South Los Angeles. 1 PM: Lunch and continued discussion at Original Bill’s Taco House, 219 E.

Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd.

May 30, Wednesday (11am-2pm) 11 AM: Meet at Moonwater Farms, 544 W. Raymond St., for discussion and tour

with Kathleen Blakistone, Richard Draut, and “Gansta Gardner” Ron Finley. 1 PM: Lunch and further conversation at the Farms.

May 31, Thursday (12pm-2pm) 12 PM: Lunch and conversation with Roy Choi (LocoL) at restaurant he selects.

June 1, Friday (11am-2pm) 11 AM: In-class presentations on South Los Angeles. 12:30 PM: Lunch catered by Real Trap Kitchen, with conversation with owners

and operators Chef “Spank,” News, and DJ Kev.

Readings/Watching/Listening for Week Three:1. Aron, Hillel, “Anti-Gentrification Movement Spreads to South L.A. Art Spaces,”

LA Weekly, http://www.laweekly.com/news/south-los-angeles-activists-take-a-page-from-defend-boyle-heights-and-demand-art-galleries-leave-8501859

2. Beatty, Paul, The Sellout excerpts (2015)3. Broad, Garrett, “In a Community Like This” and “The Youth Food Justice

Movement.” More Than Just Food: Food Justice and Community Change (University of California Press, 2016)

4. Carmichael, Vanessa, “There May Never Be a Good Brunch Place in South Central,” Huffington Post, http://www.huffingtonpost.com/vanessa-carmichael/there-may-never-be-a-good_b_6580704.html

5. Dugdale, Emily, “New Farmer’s Market Tackles South LA’s ‘Food Deserts’ at Local Hospital,” KPCC, http://www.scpr.org/news/2017/08/09/74516/new-farmer-s-market-tackles-south-l-a-s-food-deser/

6. Finely, Ron, “A Guerilla Gardener in South Central LA,” TED Talk, https://www.ted.com/talks/ron_finley_a_guerilla_gardener_in_south_central_la#t-58634

7. Stegemoeller, Kristen, “How Ron Finely Turned a Parkway Garden into a Global Movement,” Paper, http://www.papermag.com/how-ron-finley-turned-a-parkway-garden-2466201323.html

Week Four (San Gabriel Valley)

June 4, Monday (10am-3pm)

CORE 301: Modes of InquiryFood and Class in Los Angeles

10 AM: Field trip to [Location TBD by Guest] for discussion with Los Angeles Times’ food critic Jonathan Gold. Bus will leave from campus at 10am, promptly.

1 PM: Lunch and continued discussion at a restaurant selected by Jonathan Gold. 3 PM: Bus back to campus.

June 5, Tuesday (10am-2pm) 10 AM: Mini-lecture on immigration and food culture in the San Gabriel Valley. 11 AM: Final in-class presentations on San Gabriel Valley. 1 PM: Lunch and continued discussion at Golden Deli, 815 W. Las Tunas Dr.

June 6, Wednesday (11am-2pm) 11 AM: Meet at Santa Anita Mall, 400 S. Baldwin Ave., for discussion and visit

with Jonathan Gold 1 PM: Lunch at Side Chick (in the mall) for continued conversation

June 7, Thursday (12pm-2pm) 12 PM: Meet at Newport Seafood Restaurant, 518 W. Tunas Dr., for final class

lunch and discussion

June 8, Friday (11am-1pm) 11 AM: On campus for our final class: a potluck feast. Each student must bring a

dish they love and have thought about and be prepared to discuss the class-based associations and concerns connected to their choice.

June 10, Sunday (by 11:59pm) Research Papers Due by email.

Readings/Watching/Listening for Week Four:1. Chang, Cindy and Joel Rubin, “San Gabriel Valley Raid Targets Scammers Who

Helped Wealthy Chinese Get U.S. Visas, Feds Say,” Los Angeles Times, http://www.latimes.com/local/lanow/la-me-ln-green-card-fraud-20170405-story.html

2. Chef, dir. John Favreau (2014)3. Gold, Jonathan, “Delicious Food Corner is the Most Hong Kong Place in the San

Gabriel Valley,” Los Angeles Times, http://www.latimes.com/food/dailydish/la-fo-gold-delicious-food-corner-20161007-snap-story.html

4. Khouri, Andrew, “Foreigners Buy Record Number of U.S. Homes Despite Fears of Immigration Crackdown,” Los Angeles Times, http://www.latimes.com/business/la-fi-foreign-buyers-20170718-story.html

5. Letson, Al, “San Gabriel Valley, CA: Small Town, Global City,” PRX (podcast), https://beta.prx.org/stories/147515

6. Schwarz, Benjamin and Christina, “Going All Out for Chinese,” The Atlantic, https://www.theatlantic.com/magazine/archive/1999/01/going-all-out-for-chinese/305473/

CORE 301: Modes of InquiryFood and Class in Los Angeles

7. Smith, Kevin, “How’s the Economy in San Gabriel Valley, Western San Bernardino County? Pretty Good, Economists Say,” Pasadena Star-News, http://www.pasadenastarnews.com/business/20170510/hows-the-economy-in-san-gabriel-valley-western-san-bernardino-county-pretty-good-economists-say

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CORE 301: Modes of InquiryFood and Class in Los Angeles

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