VIRTUAL PROTOTYPING OF GARMENTS: …textiles.daidalos.teipir.gr/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/160121pms-P... · (VStitcher™, VStyler™ and Viewer™, are recognized as commercial

SUBJECT: VIRTUAL PROTOTYPING OF GARMENTS: DEVELOPMENTS AND APPROACHES

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Assoc. Prof. dr. Simona JevšnikUniversity of Maribor, SloveniaFaculty of Mechanical Engineering,Institute for Textile Materials and Design

Inlas d.o.o. intellectual property and [email protected]

Egaleo - Athens, 21. January 2016 Technological Educational Institute (TEI) of PiraeusDepartment of Textile Engineering

University of Maribor

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Slovenia-ID

Capital Ljubljana (the largest city) Ankara (largest city Istanbula)

Area 20,273 km2 783,562 km2 Population 2.000.000 77.500.000 Establishment 25 June 1991 (independent from

Yugaslavia 1.4.2004 (joined to EU

Nationality Slovene

University of Ljubljana (http://www.uni-lj.si)Faculty of natural science and engineerig, Textile departmentUniversity of Maribor (http://www.um.si)Faculty of mechnaical engineering, Institute for textile materials and designUniversity of Primorska (www.upr.si)Faculty of design, Textile department

University of Nova gorica (www.ung.si/)

Universities in Slovenia

Population 300.000

Accurateness of 3D virtual garment prototyping

� Virtual garment prototyping – review� Computer simulation of fabric properties� Computer simulation of fabric drapability

� Applications of garment simulation in virtual environment� Virtual prototyping of sport suit for ski-jumper� Methodology for evaluation of garment fit in virtual

environmental� Development of garment pattern for sport active paraplegic

people using computer tools� Future research direction

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Outline of lecture

Virtual garment prototyping- review4

The world globalization allows that design of clothing and production process take place in different parts of the world.

Requirements of garment industry

• Short time for development of garment • Low development cost • Following to new fashion tendency

The complexity of today’s garment industry has led to unit advanced computer-aided (CAD) technologies and 3D graphic software

The development of garment simulation in a virtual world is going in two areas:

1. ANIMATION OF GARMENT BEHAVIUOR and2. REALISTIC FABRIC SIMULATION OF GARMNET


Steps for classical prototyping of garment:

Design

Construction of base pattern

Modeling of pattern

Technological preparation

Technical realization-sewing

First prototype

Try on and adaption

Definition the changing

Garment prototype

Prototyping of garment for individuals :

• Conventional (classical manner)• Virtual

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Steps for virtual prototyping of garment

Virtual garment prototyping- review

The procedure is the same - the steps are different

Defining the changes: Fabric properties,PatternGarment shape

Pilar Jevšnik, 2010

Fabric propertiesPreparation ofGament patternfor simulation

Preparation of Virtual mannequin

Virtual sewing Try on garment evaluationon virtual mannequin

VIRTUAL PROTOTAYPING – the first prototype

Garment prototype

Estimation the fittinggarment on thehuman body

Design

Construction of base pattern

Modeling of pattern

Technological preparation

Technical realization (virtual environment)

Computer software for simulation

Virtual garment prototyping- review

-Browzwear - www.browzwear.com/(VStitcher™, VStyler™ and Viewer™, are recognized as commercial applications on the market for 3D visualization and design of garments and materials)

- OptiTex - http://www.optitex.com/(OptiTex ™ 3D , Pattern Design System (PDS) OptiTex , OptiTex Runway are the applications for 3D visualization and design of garments and materials)

- Lectra (http://www.lectra.com/It covers the fields: Fashion, Foodwear, leather goods, Automotive and Composites and industrial fabrics)(Modaris 3D Fit, - for design and products engineering)

-Assyst (http://www.human-solutions.com/)-Fashion and interiors products

Gerber (http://www.gerbertechnology.com/)

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Advantages:

� Eliminate the sewing porcess during the prototyping

� Reduce the materials cost and save time for prototyping

� Independent development of prototypes from human being model

� Quick response time on design changes

Disadvantages:

� Representation of fabric behavior properties

� Proper fitting of garment on virtual models

� Customization of the virtual parametric body model

Advantages and constraints of 3D garment prototyping


� Computer simulation of fabric properties� Computer simulation of fabric drapability

Accurateness of 3D virtual garment prototyping

Computer simulation of fabric properties10

Tensile properties

Ep Young’s Modulus in the warp directionEt Young’s Modulus in the weft directionG Shear modulusd Thicknessm Weight / area Q Poisson’s ratioU Density

Material properties

Suppositions for fabric:

HomogeneousOrthotropicLinearity by low loading

Suppositions for fused panelTwo layer laminateHomogeneousOrthotropicLinearity by low loadingUniform density at the connectionspoints with negligible thickness

Shear properties

• ABAQUS program package

• Shell elements• Newton-Raphson method

FabricFused panel

Comparison of shear curve between experimental and numerical simulations of fabric

Comparison between experimentally obtained and numerically calculated values of the shear forces of fused panel

Jevšnik, 2003

Computer simulation of fabric drapeability11

Jevšnik, 2003Fabric:

Specific densityFabric thicknessMaterial parameters

Suppositions:HomogeneousOrthotropicLinearity by low loading

Fused panel:

Specific densityFuased panel thicknessMaterial parametersSuppositions:Two layer laminateHomogeneousOrthotropicLinearity by low loadingUniform density at the connectionspoints with negligible thickness

• ABAQUS program package• Shell elements• Newton-Raphson iterative

method

Edge of pedestal

Pedestal

Sample 240 shell elements

S9R5120

shellelements

CUSICK DRAPE METER

• Drape coefficient• Fold amplitude lenght• Minimum amplitude• Maximum amplitude• Number of folds• Distribution of folds

Drape properties

Drape parameters Cusik drape meter

Drape parameters with FEM

Number of folds 7Max. deflection / mm 59.90Min deflectin /mm 35.71Depth of folds 45.70Maximum amplitude 138.39Minimum amplitude 94.80

Number of folds 6Max. deflection / mm 59.90Min deflectin /mm 35.8Depth of folds 35.53Maximum amplitude 148.34Minimum amplitude 112.80

Applications of garment simulation in virtual environment

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Virtual prototyping of sport suit for Ski-jumper

Virtual prototyping of sport suit13

Ski-jumper suit sketch

Requirements (Fédération Internationale de Ski,FIS ):

• The neck dimension can be maximum 8 cm longer than measured body neck

• The width of the fasteners must not exceed 10 mm

• The maximum deviation of suit can be 6 cm from the any part of body

• The length of the sleeves must be accurate up to wrist of arm.

• Decomposition of all suit parts must be made of materials with the same characteristics.

• Air permeability must be higher that 40 l m-2.s

• Cut-out around shoes cannot be too big.

The jumper wants catch with garment the airduring jump as much as possible

Neck measurement

Cut-out


Real human body

Analysis of ski-jump suit Preparing the human body

3D body scanning

Parametric body

Parametric modelScanned model

3D body scanner Vitus Smart.Cloud point: up to 600.000 points.Body measures: ScanWorx program package.

Skanning problems


Material selection

Five-layer laminated fabric consisting of:• first layer: outer fabric,• second layer: foam,• third layer: elastic membrane,• fourth layer: foam,• fifth layer: lining fabric.

PROPERTIESMEASURED VALUE OptiTex parameters

UNIT COURSE D. WALE D. UNIT COURSE D. WALED.

Extension at load of 98,1 Nm-1 / E 100 % 9.6 10.9 gcm-2 400.641 352.85

8Bending rigidity / B PN�m 44.8 54.5 dyn*cm 4965

Shear rigidity / G Nm-1 199 dyn*cm 1990

Surface thickness / ST mm 0.035 cm 0.0035

Mass per unit area / W gm-2 601 gm-2 601


COMPUTER PATTERN CONSTRUCTION PATTERN MAKING

JUMPSUIT VIRTUAL SIMULATION

MANUFACTORING THE SKI JUMP SUITS

Virtual prototayping of garment17

Ski jump suit manufactured on the base of virtual process of prototyping

Professional ski Jump-suitPrototype

Methodology for evaluation of garment fit in virtual environmental

Applications of garment simulation in virtualenvironment

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Evaluation of the skrit fit to the real, parametric and scanned body models:

1. Definition the evaluation area

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• Middle age women, • Garment size 42,• Jackets• Skirts

� Manufactured by Slovenian company.

� Different natural fibers (cotton, linen) and mixtures (linen/PA).

� Fusing was performed in all models using the same type of adhesive interlinings and Mayer fusing machine.


Model jacket 1 Model jacket 2 Model jacket 2

Model skirt 1 Model krilo skirt 2 Model krilo skirt 3


• 40 different body measurement

Scanned model

• Body scanner Vitus Smart

• ATOS for reconstruction the 3D body models

• Graphical programs for reconstruction the scanned body models

• Program MeshLab (tool Poisson)

• Program Blender

• Import into OptiTex PDS 3D Creator

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Preparation the virtual body models

Parametric model


Definition the seams of garment and position of pattern on the virtual body

z Definition the garment pattern (position, form, layers)z Definition the fabric properties (shell fabric or fused panel)z Definition the auxiliary materials

Definition the garment pattern and fabric properties

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Preparation the garment pattern for 3D simulation


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The virtual simulation of skirt Real made skirt


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Applications of garment simulation in virtualenvironment

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Development of garment pattern for sport active paraplegic people


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• People with limited body abilities are active in sports and in other social activities.

• Paraplegics have special garments needs, because of physical limitations (body shapes, mobility or movability), therefore it is necessaryperform the special garment constructions.

Wheelchair-racer

Wheelchair tennis playerSport shirt pattern design was performed using a construction system M. Muller & Sohn


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Wheelchair-racer

Wheelchair tennis player

Scanned Wheelchair-racer

Scanned Wheelchairtennis player

(Stjepanovič; Jevšnik, Rudolf. 2014)

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• To adapt the methodology for evaluation the garment fit

• Detailed determination the properties for separate parts or detail on garment

• To study garment fit during dynamic processes

• Preparation/customization the virtual models (mannequins)

Future research direction

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No. Module Responsible partner

A1 “Advanced Knitting Technologies” Technical University “Gh. Asachi - Romunia

A2 “Virtual prototyping of garments, 3D scanning, clothing for people with special needs”

University Maribor – Slovenia

A3 “New method for testing textile materials” Textile Testing Institute – Czech republic

A4 “Standardization of textile testing” National Research and Development Institute for Textile and Leather (INCDTP) - Coordinator- Romunia

A5 “New sustainable textile technologies, LCA, Eco-labelling”

University Minho – Portugal

A6 “Entrepreneurship” INCDTP - Romunia

A7 “Innovation management” INCDTP - Romunia

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http://www.tekstilec.si/

Tekstilec gives fundamental and applied scientific information in the physical, chemical and engineering sciences related to the textile industry. Its professional and research articles refer to fibres and testing, chemical and mechanical textile technology, technical textiles and their application, as well as to other fields associated with the textile technology and design, textile and clothing industry e.g. development, application and manufacture of natural and man-made fibres, yarns and fabrics, design, marketing, ecology, ergonomics, education in textile sector, cleaning of textiles, etc.

Articles from Tekstilec are indexed in SCOPUS database, at the moment the journal is evaluated by Thonson Reuters data base



http://www.tekstilec.si/?p=1742




Universities in Slovenia

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University of Ljubljana (http://www.uni-lj.si) University of Maribor (http://www.um.si)

University of Primorska (www.upr.si) University of Nova gorica (www.ung.si/)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:UniverzaMaribor.jpg

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:UniverzaMaribor.jpg

University of Ljubljana34

University of Ljubljana has accredited :

156 1st cycle study programs, 125 academic and 31 higher professional programs.

The university members also offer long-cycle master study programs, in the fields of EU regulated professions: medicine, dental medicine, pharmacy, architecture).

MEMBERS:

3 Academies

23 Faculties

UNIVERSITY OF LJUBLJANA VISION

By 2020, the University of Ljubljana will be recognized as an internationally open and excellent research university, creatively contributing to the quality of life.

http://www.uni-lj.si/

http://www.uni-lj.si/

Universitiy of Maribor35

General:

� Beginnings of higher education: 1859 (A.M. Slomšek).

� UNI MB: Established in 1975.

� Current Rector: Prof. Dr. Danijel Rebolj

� Today: Acknowledged university with internationallycomparable faculties and study programmes.

Faculties (13):

� Faculty of Economics and Business

� Faculty of Electrical Engineering and Computer Science

� Faculty of Mechanical Engineering

� Faculty of Civil Engineering

� Faculty of Chemistry and Chemical Engineering

� Faculty of Agriculture

� Faculty of Organisational Sciences (Kranj)

� Faculty of Education

� Faculty of Natural Sciences and Mathematics

� Faculty of Law

� Faculty of Medicine

� Faculty of Nursing Studies

� Faculty of Criminal Justice

University of Maribor

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21/01/2016 36

Faculty of Mechanical Engineering, Institute of textile material and design

The University library Student hostels

www. usc.uni-mb.si

www.fs.uni-mb.si

http://www.uni-mb.si/dokument.aspx?id=8414




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THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR YOUR ATTENTION

Documents

VIRTUAL PROTOTYPING OF GARMENTS: …textiles.daidalos.teipir.gr/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/160121pms-P... · (VStitcher™, VStyler™ and Viewer™, are recognized as commercial