Volume 19 – Issue 1 march 2011 In thIs Issue team Usa Wins at sigep … · 2011-09-07 · Volume 19 – Issue 1 march 2011 In thIs Issue 2 Notes from the Chair 4 Guild News A Tribute

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Volume 19 – Issue 1 march 2011

In thIs Issue 2 Notes from the Chair

4 Guild News

A Tribute to Craig Ponsford

12 Regional Events Breadville USA 2011

13 Guild News Website Update

14 World’s Fair of Bread 2010 German Baking

16 Breadville USA

The Wonders of Brioche

19 Regional Events San Rafael Gathering

20 Technical Article Baking 101: Technology of Ingredients

23 Team Formula Pacific Breeze

24 Technical Article West Coast Whole Grains

The Bread Bakers Guild of America is the leading American educational resource for artisan bread bakers. Our mission: to shape the knowledge and skills of the artisan baking community through education. Bread Lines, the newsletter of The Bread Bakers Guild of America, is published four times per year.

Our main concerns were the final presentation of the products to the jury, the product for the public vote, and what constituted the Cake category. It was determined that each product would have to be plated for judging, a new concept for the team and quite different from the Louis Lesaffre Cup and the Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie, where consistency, volume, and weight are major criteria. With 50% of the score coming from

the public tasting, Brett emphasized putting careful consideration into pleasing the crowd, and he made some suggestions.

PHOTO: dara reimers

PreParation and PracticeThe road to Rimini began weeks before the competition, in Montpelier, Vermont. Each team member brought his formulas and pro-cesses to the team practice at New England Culinary Institute (NECI) in early January. While the snow fell, we worked over the rules of the competition and had a lengthy conver-sation via Skype with Brett Noy, a Guild mem-ber, who had competed at the Sigep Bread Cup with Team Australia in previous years.

david decesare, John tredgold, Michael rhoads, and harry PeeMoeller

team Usa Wins at sigep Bread cupBy dara reiMers team Coach and Owner of the Bread shack, Auburn, Me

Bread Bakers Guild Team USA has returned victorious from the 5th International Sigep Bread Cup

2011 (http://en.sigep.it/) held in Rimini, Italy, on January 22-26, 2011! In addition to first place

overall, Team USA won the Traditional Bread Category with the Walnut Levain developed by

Michael Rhoads. The Sigep competition team, drawn from the nine-member Team USA, consisted

of Harry Peemoeller, David DeCesare, John Tredgold, and Michael Rhoads. Each team member was

responsible for one of four categories: Harry, as Captain, was a member of the jury and created the

Artistic Piece; David created the Pilgrim Bread for Cake or Baked Dessert; JT created Loli Bread for

the Healthy Bread; and Michael created the prize-winning Traditional Bread.

{ 2 } T H e b r e a d b a k e r s g u i l d O f a m e r i c a

increase the fun factor for us on the Board and for some willing-and-able members, I believe we’ll be able to do something pretty interesting in the coming years.

So, that’s the goal and the point of this whole exercise – to learn a thing or two, meet some fellow bakers, and work together to make sure The Guild continues to be a healthy community. On behalf of the Board of Directors, I can say that we are honored to be a part of this all, and we’re all looking forward to doing great and fun things together.

Solveig Tofte has been baking since 1999. She worked as the head baker at Turtle Bread in Minneapolis, MN, from 2000-2010 and was the team captain of Bread Bakers Guild Team USA 2008, which competed at the Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie in Paris. Solveig and her husband and 6 year old daughter have just opened a bakery café, Sun Street Breads, also in Minneapolis. Her term as Chair of the Guild’s Board of Directors began on January 1, 2011.

SOLVEIG TOFTEBoard Chair and

Owner of Sun Street Breads

Minneapolis, MN

I have been asked many times over the years why I’m a baker. This question is one of my favorites (and I’m not being sarcastic). It tells me that what I do captures the imagination enough to elicit questions, rather than causing eye-glazing boredom. The other reason I love it is because I get to give my answer: I’m a baker because I love bakers.

Yes, of course, I love everything about the work. But if bakers were a bunch of jerks, there’s no way I would choose to spend my working (and quite a few leisure) hours with them. And yes, of course, there are jerky bakers. And there are perfectly lovely bakers who have jerky moments. But fundamentally, the group of people I have been privileged to associate with is generous and supportive, and I’m always thrilled to be in your company.

As I step with a bit of trepidation into Craig’s position as Chair of the Board of Directors, I have been thinking about what The Guild is all about, and what the current Board of Directors can do to continue to foster its identity and growth. Our mission is all about education, and the very delightful outcome of our classes and gatherings is that we have developed a strong community of bakers. This may seem completely obvious, but I firmly believe that this is our greatest asset and that it bears much consideration.

Thanks to our generous donors, our active members, and our extended network of friends, we are able to accomplish so many exciting things. The work with Bread Bakers Guild Team USA broadens our base of knowledge and creates strong ties to the international baking community, the classes we teach keep us all energized and allow for great fellowship, and the diverse opportunities pursued by individual members makes this community what it is – vibrant, interesting, and engaged.

During Craig Ponsford’s and Abe Faber’s tenures as Chair and Vice Chair of the Board, The Guild has focused on increasing the quality of our services. Bread Lines has become a magazine, we have made a commitment to offer 10-14 classes per year all over the country, and we are working to ensure that Camp Bread continues in some kind of sustainable form. My goal is to maintain this trajectory of detailed commitment to quality, and hopefully to involve many more members in this process.

You’ve heard it said that this is a volunteer-run organization, and the Board of Directors is a working Board. I can’t stress how wonderful and necessary this is

– that community I spoke of earlier doesn’t just come from paying dues; it comes from people getting together and working to reach a common goal of better baking everywhere.

The Board of Directors has decided that this is the year we make a concentrated effort to involve more members in our committees – it’s a goal every Board has had every year, but the band-width and infrastructure were previously not in place to make this possible. So now, thanks to the fact that Craig and Abe have established a strong and functioning framework, we are able to explore this idea more thoroughly.

I believe that you have received an e-mail from The Guild office asking for any specific skills you might wish to offer. Please respond! Or file it away and respond when you have more time. And this should absolutely not be a burden or an obligation – everyone gives so much already, and we all have hectic lives. But I know that, for me, getting involved with the Guild has expanded my world and has kept me excited about what I do. And in our talks with Guild members around the country, we hear repeatedly “I’m really good at that. I’d love to help!” So, to

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b r e a d l i n e s – m a r c H 2 0 1 1 { 3 }

The Bread Bakers Guild of America gratefully recognizes its

2010-2012 fundraising partners for their generosity.

Platinum Partner ($120,000)

General Mills, Inc.

Gold Partner ($60,000)

King Arthur Flour Co.

San Francisco Baking Institute

Silver Partner ($36,000)

California Raisin Marketing Board

Lesaffre Yeast Corporation

Bronze Partner ($18,000)

Baking Buyer

Kemper Bakery Systems of the

WP Bakery Group

Modern Baking

Pastry & Baking North America

Progressive Baker/Cargill

Team Alliance ($6,000)

BEMA

Seven Stars Bakery

Artisan Circle ($3,600)

The Acme Bread Company

Albemarle Baking Company

Allied Bakery Equipment Company Inc.

Amy’s Bread

Breadsmith

Chabaso Bakery

Clear Flour Bread

ConAgra Mills

Charles and Joyce Esfeld

Grand Central Baking Company

Sasa-Demarle Inc.

Tom Cat Bakery Inc.

Tree-Top Baking

Village Bakery Cafe

Zingerman’s Bakehouse

Hearth Society ($1,980)

AIB International

Bread Alone

Neale and Marian Creamer

Euro Pane Bakery

Labriola Baking Company

Lallemand Inc. / American Yeast Division

Le Petit Outre Breads

New French Bakery

Niedlov's Breadworks

Udi's Bread

Couche Club ($990-$1,979)

Bakehouse Bread

David Bergman

Frank Carollo

Certified Foods Inc.

Dawn Food Products

Erika Record LLC

Jason and Linda Gollan

Griffin’s Bakery Galway Ireland

Orlando Baking Company

Carol Robson

Truckee Sourdough Company

Baker’s Bunch ($390-$989)

Alessio Ambruso

Anonymous

Buono’s Bakery

Ann F. Burgunder

Abram Faber & Christy Timon

Harvey Hanoian

Dave Krishock

Red Hen Baking Company

Edward Short

SoNo Baking Company

Standard Baking Company

Solveig Tofte

Ray Werner

Becky Woehrle

Jeffrey Yankellow

T h a n k s T o o u r D o n o r s

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Guild Friends (Up to $389)

Tim Andrews

Anonymous

Lorna Baker-Monroe

Frank Basich

George Blanford

Carol Brownson

Marsha De Angelis

Dewey Doughberman

Eden Valley Bakers

Jessie Foster

Michael Gesik

Gail Goetsch

Rhoda Gordon

James W. Hatfield III

Hot Bagel Company

Melina Kelson-Podolsky

Craig Ponsford

Patricia Kennedy

John Kino

Paul Krebs

John and Laura Kvasnosky

Larry Lobe

Joan McConville

Paige Meier

Benjamin Miller

Richard Miscovich

Murray Hollow Bakers

Barbara Oberlin

Christian Oertel

Barbara A. Oletzke

Maria A. Paniagua

Harry Peemoeller

Lewis Perlmutter

Rebecca and Dmitri Robbins

Sandwich Isle Bread Company

Joan Schiller

Slow Rise Bakery

Scott Tycer

Hans van der Maarel


a t r i B U t e t o

Craig Ponsford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

PHOTO: bread bakers guild Of america

Craig Ponsford with his breads and first place trophy from the Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie, 1996.

The last day of 2010 marked the close of Craig Ponsford’s nine years of service as Chairman of the Board of the Bread Bakers Guild of America. It also ended his 15-year tenure as a Board member. Craig is both the longest serving Board member in the history of our organization and our longest serving Board Chair. having served with Craig as the Vice Chair for many years, I would like to thank him publicly by speaking a little to the enormous positive impact that his years of service have had on the Guild.

While I haven’t been on the Board as long as Craig, I was there at the critical juncture when he became Board Chair back in 2002.

tom McMahon, with the help of some other American baking luminaries, began the Guild back in 1993. the early years focused on the conception and creation of the national Baking Center, a venture

that itself did not survive the economic realities of its time, yet spawned a generation of educators and body of curricula that form the basis of artisan baking education in America today. the early years also focused on the formation and training of a united states Baking team to compete in the international Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie, and the development of a nationwide network of bakers who were eagerly looking to end their isolation from others as they strove to educate themselves about the highest possible quality traditional artisan baking knowledge and techniques.

When Craig took over the chairmanship of the Guild, some aspects of its development were experiencing relatively dark days. the national Baking Center was struggling to survive management transitions, and it was just after the terrorist attacks of september 11, 2001. the Guild’s three-year fundraising campaign to fund general operations was hopelessly stalled as many of our potential donors were plunged into a holding pattern of economic uncertainty.

there were serious discussions on the Guild’s Board that perhaps the fiscally responsible thing to do to insure the survival of the Guild would be to take it into a period of

“hibernation,” providing only the most basic of services and eliminating costly hands-on education and training until some future time when the economy improved.

Craig Ponsford challenged us with an immensely different idea; he was of the “Damn the torpedoes,

full speed ahead,” school of thought. simply put, he inspired us to plan for a more ambitious agenda than ever. he set an unwavering standard: every year we needed to do more than the year before, better than the year before. he made decisions based on member needs and quality of programming, never on what was expedient. he was a leader who always ignited a spark under a new project. We have never looked back.

During Craig’s tenure as Chairman, the Guild ramped up regional events, tours of mills and farms, and Guildhall Gatherings around the country, from a handful a year to a dozen or more. We ran two national Camp Bread events, bringing baking traditions from around the world to our members. We created a more public and educational model out of the Bread Bakers Guild team usA selection and training process and sponsored a succession of winning and placing teams. We set ambitious fundraising efforts, putting the Guild on track financially. We expanded relationships between the Guild and partner educational institutions and grew our partnerships with other baking organizations, participating in large industry events such as our recent co-hosting of the Louis Lesaffre Cup in Las Vegas.

Over the years, Craig’s greatest love among all the of the Guild’s activities has been Bread Bakers Guild team usA. he himself was a competitor in 1996, winning first place for bread, back when they awarded individual honors, and he has been either a coach or coordinator of every team usA since. he has also been honored multiple times by being asked to serve as the American judge at two Coupe du Mondes as well as other baking competitions.

In this latest team cycle, Craig again displayed his trademark unflagging optimism for inventing the future when the Guild increased the educational power of the team process by expanding

By aBe FaBer Guild Board Member and Co-Owner of Clear Flour Bread, Brookline, MA

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team usA to nine members. It was financially and structurally difficult to take nine people from around the country and involve them in a process that had previously included only three members. Yet in the end it worked, and on January 25 we received news that team usA had prevailed as the overall winner at the sigep Bread Cup in Italy, just months after our win at the Louis Lesaffre Cup in Las Vegas that garnered the team a spot at the 2012 Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie in Paris. Participation in two events so close together would not have been possible with only a three-member team. the new relationships we have begun to build through the participation in the sigep Cup will undoubtedly

“trickle down” to enrich our membership just as much as the many international relationships Craig and many others in the team project have formed over the years through our participation with the Coupe de Monde.

the educational teaching corps of the Guild is largely formed of team usA members who have benefited from the time and knowledge and skills of the mentors and masters of our extended baking community. tripling the ranks of this and future teams means triple the opportunities for demos, classes, events, and informal exchanges of knowledge for all of our members.

When it comes to baking education and sharing an absolute love for both respecting the traditions as well as inventing the modern future of our baking craft, Craig Ponsford leaves a

high benchmark in place for future Guild leaders to aspire to.

there is so much work (and not all of it glamorous) that goes on behind the scenes just to make our powerful yet tiny organization chug along each year: Raising the funds. Building the capacity of our small staff and large army of volunteer Board members and general members who make possible all the classes, Guildhall Gatherings, tours, team usA activities, and national events at trade shows and Camp Bread. the endless creation and fine-tooth-combing of budgets to squeeze every drop of educational programming out of every dollar we have. Craig had a willingness to stick stubbornly to the task of making sure all of this foundation-building occurred. Because I know that Craig is a guy who derives much more enjoyment from hands-on things like baking bread, teaching classes, setting up bakeries on convention show floors under impossible deadlines, or cranking out food for 200 people in a tiny temporary event kitchen, I feel all the more gratitude to him for hanging in there as a leader for so many years, doing the kinds of things that didn’t come as naturally to him: meetings, budgets, wrangling of Board members and volunteers, and defense of standards even in the face of budget woes and volunteer fatigue. I know he kept doing it because he wanted to leave the organization on a much higher functioning plane and a stronger infrastructure than when he came in as Chair. he wanted to leave the next generation of Board membership the ability to focus on more of the “fun” and the purely educational stuff.

Recently, the “old guard” – Craig and I – shared some memories and thoughts for the future with the new Chair, solveig tofte, and the new Vice Chair, Jeff Yankellow, at Craig’s new bakery in san Rafael, California when we were all in town for a Guild Board meeting.

We asked Craig if the transition felt bittersweet, and he replied that it felt only sweet; he always felt he wanted to

move on when he sensed that the next generation of leadership was powered up and ready to make their mark and deploy their own ideas about what this wonderful organization can continue to grow into. he feels sure this is the right time.

I was reminded of a Board joke from years ago. We had decided the Guild should have a “tag line” on stationery and marketing materials, and the Board chose to write the words “14 years slowly rising” after “the Bread Bakers Guild of America” on our letterhead. We thought it was a fun bakers’ pun showing that we were up and coming and always on the move, but slowly and steadily, like a well-tended preferment building its complex flavor profile. the Guild’s marketing firm at the time was horrified; they thought it was terrible to make a point out of being slow and suggested saying only “14 years rising.” that, of course, just made Craig more stubborn about authorizing the tag line. he didn’t care about what made the best marketing. he was more interested in projecting an honest image of what we thought we were: slow and steady, but always rising.

When we saw him in January at his brand new Ponsford’s Place Bakery and Innovation Center, Craig’s attention was focused on his new venture, and his enthusiasm for this new chapter in his professional career was evident. standing in front of ingredient bins of such interesting possibilities as lupine flour and a host of locally whole milled flours such as rye, wheat, sorghum and wild rice, he became animated, talking about the recent flavor and texture strides he has been making in his experiments with whole milled products. We were lucky enough to sample some excellent pretzels, apple turnovers and pizzarollios fresh from the oven.

It felt great for me to see our past Chair, and my good friend, still taking it to the max in whatever he put his mind to. thank you, Craig, for your years of steadfast stewardship of our Guild! ✹

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Former Board Chairman, Craig Ponsford, with new Board Chair, Solveig Tofte.

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After our conversation with Brett, the team decided that: : The presentation to the jury would be

on 15 custom platters, with one shape cut into cross-section, with slices of the public serving bread, e.g. baguette slice and condiments on the side.

: The team would develop smaller, bite-size dessert pieces and canapés for the public tasting, pairing the Walnut Levain with Robiola cheese and mustards, and the Loli bread with smoked fish and pickled carrot salad.

: They would treat the Cake category as a baked dessert to be plated for the judges. Plating components would include cranberry compote, cornmeal tuille, a quenelle of ricotta cheese (or any fresh cheese available in the supermarket near the convention hall in Italy), and a sliver of honeycomb.

We received a warm welcome from the Founder and President of NECI. The school has been very accommodating and generous both with Michael’s time and the school’s resources. Michael, as Chair of the Baking and Pastry Department at NECI, hopes that the school will be a future site for Guild practices and classes.

I toured the Vermont Cheese and Butter Creamery and met the founder, Allison Hooper. She was very interested in learning about the Sigep competition and agreed to help pair and provide the cheese for the team to take to Italy. Al-lison has been to the Slow Food events in Italy, where her cheese Coupole – similar to Robiola that Michael hoped to use with the Walnut Levain – was well received. As it turned out, the Coupole was not ready for shipping, so the Bonne Bouche was substituted and arrived in Michael’s lug-gage without incident and perfectly ripe.

arrival in riMiniAfter a huge mix up of flights in London, which ended with Harry having to spend the night in Bologna, the team members were finally all together in Rimini on Friday, January 21.

While shopping for ingredients the next day, we had to omit the smoked fish for the Loli bread as we could not find one that suited the bread, and elected instead to serve a fresh carrot salad and juice for the plating. My favorite part of shopping, besides which wine to choose, was a selection of no less than six types of delicatessen-style ricottas. Communicating without Italian language skills was always interesting and often amusing, especially when trying to express which ricotta we wanted and the quantity we needed.

With ingredients in hand, we arrived at the fairgrounds to find a team of electricians installing the equipment. Michael mixed his 55% hydration biga and other preferments by hand, JT did his best to explain to the oven technician that the controls did not match the actual oven

temperature (about 100 degrees Celsius cooler than stated), and David helped Harry to organize his preparations for the artistic piece.

A random drawing determined each team’s schedule in the competition. The draw had the United States baking the morning shift on Saturday, January 22, and the afternoon shift on Sunday, January 23, and so on, to the end of the show. The artistic design specialist worked opposite the team; that is, Harry worked in the artistic lab on Saturday afternoon, Sunday morning, etc., as well as working with his team in the morning.

Team USA was assigned to share a kitchen with Portugal – their baking schedule alternated with ours. The day before the competition, everyone was in good spirits, well-prepared and professional, and aside from some

equipment concerns, which they were prepared to compensate for, everything seemed on track for a productive day. The presentation of products by teams experienced with the Sigep competition was to be the main focus the next day, which would enable Team USA to make any changes, based on what they learned.

the PlanDuring the three 4.5 hour work sessions, each baker would produce a bread.

Day 1 Michael Rhoads to mix and bake the Traditional Bread, Walnut Levain.

Day 2 JT to mix and bake the Healthy Bread, Loli Bread, a high-fiber, whole wheat bread.

Day 3 David DeCesare to do final assembly of the Dry or Leavened Cake, Pilgrim Bread (pannetone with cranberries and corn), the components having been made on previous days.

Day 4 Harry Peemoeller to assemble the Artistic Piece by 10 am, component construction having been done on all previous days.

One baker would assist the lead baker for each day with pre-shaping, shaping and loading, as the bread had to be out of the oven in 3.5 hours in order to be organized for presenting. The third baker would prepare either cake components

– laminated dough, fillings – or tasting components.

The artistic members would have a separate lab to construct, bake and assemble the showpieces. Team members would assist Harry or take over as needed. Harry built time into his routine for

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team Usa Wins at sigep Bread cup Continued from cover

“The camaraderie and bread bakers spirit amongst

all the participants was fantastic. It was a great

event that brought together 40 very diverse but

high-caliber artisan bread bakers from all over the

world to share ideas and the passion for our craft.”

– hARRY PeeMOeLLeR

“The Sigep Bread Cup was an amazing

experience. The Guild helped me

to pursue my dream of competing

internationally, and I was able to foster

relationships with fellow bakers in

Australia, Germany, and Italy. I hope I can

help future generations of bakers have

this same rewarding experience.”

– MIChAeL RhOADs


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interruptions and developed an assembly strategy to simplify his piece if called away at critical moments. One team member would be available to fill in at crucial times.

the coMPetitionDay One of the competition was Traditional Bread, and every team was prepared and focused. As always, it was interesting to watch other bakers work and see how they organized their kitchens. Team USA worked efficiently and cleanly. During the last hour of the baking sessions, we watched the Australian and Israeli teams bring out huge white ceramic plates and knew at that moment that the thin, large custom platters produced in Maine by Stan Hollenbeck would be perfect: unusual and rustic.

Team USA worked according to plan – JT baking bread, Michael preparing cheese and mustard for the plating, and Harry and David working on a side table - and this added to the overall appearance of efficiency and intention.

Judging began late on the first day. The public vote was a surprisingly controlled affair, with 32 participants seated in a cordoned-off area in front of the professional judging area. We had imagined a mob scene, with participants all reaching for slices of bread at the same time, but as it turned out, the organizers provided 32 small plates to give to that day’s public jury. As a result, we were able to plate a smaller version of the presentation for the jury. Due to the weight of the public vote, we assumed that Italy would win and the remaining teams would be vying for second and third places.

France’s levain was a favorite of Team USA. My personal favorite was the plating of the Israeli team, who had a sequence to approaching the tasting – untoasted bread with arugula and goat cheese, then their bread, toasted, with balsamic

vinegar and honey. Some of the plating seemed too elaborate, as many of the judges simply judged the bread – touch, smell, taste and texture. Many plates were returned with the food and wine plating components untouched. Examples of the various plating concepts can be seen in the photo section of my business Facebook page, thebreadshack.

Day Two was Healthy Bread, which Australia won. The notable point here was that many breads were low- or no-salt. There was less emphasis on fiber, which may have hurt JT’s overall score. The plan created in Vermont was still holding and appeared to be a good plan for the competition. We were very grateful for our conversation with Brett Noy and were well prepared as a result of his insights.

JT’s Loli Bread was named after his wife, and Loli (Laura) was on hand to watch him compete, as was The Guild’s former Director of Operations, Natalie Gould, who now lives in Italy. JT’s utter focus on and love for bread came through, and his bread was spot on. All went well, with the team functioning very well - good communication, working clean, and organized.

Day Three, Cake or Baked Dessert, was highly anticipated because the definition of the category was so vague. In addition to the smooth, clean flow of the U.S. kitchen, the highlight of the day was watching the Italian in charge of the baked dessert category finish the sfogliatelle that he painstakingly created over three days. Some of us had never had the opportunity to see the process from beginning to end, so it was interesting to watch. The sfogliatelle had exceptional flavor, no doubt from the pork lard. When in Rome...

David presented a lovely plating of the Pilgrim Bread with a slice of honeycomb, cranberry compote with ricotta, topped with tuille butterfly wings: simple, rustic, and a bread product. Australia created an all-out entremet with tempered chocolate for an elaborate plating. It was beautiful and delicious but did not include any baked dough. Italy’s baked pastry was top notch and set the standard.

There was some confusion about what was allowed on the artistic piece. Our understanding was that all supports were to be edible but the piece could incor-porate engines and lights and such. The discussion was definitely lively. Although less intense than the Louis Lesaffre Cup, the Sigep Bread Cup is a great venue for bakers to get some international exposure and learn team dynamics.

Harry, as team captain and artistic baker, faced the biggest challenge. He worked both shifts, in the team kitchen and the artistic lab, as well as being team captain and serving on the jury. If we compete at the Sigep Bread Cup again, it is imperative that the Captain and the Artistic responsibilities be separated.

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Continued on next page

“It was amazing to be around so many people

who were excited about great bread. Such a

wide variety of backgrounds and traditions – it

was pure joy to experience and share this time

with my fellow bakers from around the globe.”

– JOhn tReDGOLD

Harry Peemoeller with the Sigep Bread Cup trophy.


Day Four, January 25, involved the final assembly of the showpiece, and the awards ceremony. The showpieces were as diverse as the countries involved. The masterpiece created by the German team, highly controlled dead dough with a live dough base, prevailed. Harry was just a few hundredths of a point behind, followed by Russia.

the Final resUltsThese were the final results of the 2011 Sigep Bread Cup:

1st Place United States

2nd Place Italy

3rd Place Australia

Best Baked Dessert Italy

Best Healthy Bread Australia

Best Showpiece Germany

Best Traditional Bread United StatesFor the Walnut Levain, which Michael developed

Production Award EnglandFor producing the most product to benefit the Club Arti E Mestieri’s charity project in Kenya

Our poor understanding of the Italian language became apparent when the overall team award was announced. No one reacted. All the teams looked at each other blankly because many of us did not understand the words “United States” in Italian. Laura Sillato, our liaison/interpreter, had to jump up and say, “The

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loli – healthy Bread By JoHN TREDGolD

This bread is a balanced blend of three

flours: bread flour, whole wheat and Type

85, which add substantial health benefits

such as fiber, protein and minerals. The

dough has a high hydration that gives the

final loaf a moist, open crumb.

PREFERMEnTS: Levain: Mix by hand just until well

incorporated. Desired temperature 75°F. Ferment 12 hours at 72 - 73°F.

: Poolish: Mix by hand just until well incorporated. Desired temperature 75°F. Ferment 12 hours at 72 - 73°F.

: Soaker: Use hot water. Mix by hand, let sit at room temperature overnight, covered.

FInAL DOUGH: Adjust the water temperature to achieve a

final dough temperature of 78°F.: Place all the ingredients in the bowl of a

spiral mixer except for the yeast, salt, and soaker.

: Mix in 1st speed for 3 - 4 minutes until the flour is well hydrated. Allow the dough to rest for 10 minutes for an autolyse.

: After the autolyse add the salt and yeast to the bowl and mix in 1st speed for 1 minute and 2nd speed for 3 minutes.

United States!” before we understood that Team USA had won. The guys were elated, and for good reason. Great work, David, Michael, JT and Harry! You made The Guild proud and represented the United States with distinction.

At the closing ceremony, the sponsors gave speeches that were not translated into English. However, I remember one gentleman speaking, and the emotion of his statement did not need interpreting: he was happy and proud to have such well-organized and serious competition. It is no small task to assemble 10 teams each year and host an international competition, which we learned first hand at the recent Louis Lasaffre Cup in Las Vegas. So, well done, Club Arti E Mestieri! We are looking forward to returning next year to highlight artisan products from across the United States and to establish a deeper relationship with our Italian counterparts.

Bread Bakers Guild Team USA would like to thank Club Arti E Mestieri and Laura Sillato for inviting us to participate in the Sigep Bread Cup and for coordinating all the details. Thanks also to the New England Culinary Institute for hosting the team practice, negotiating space with the other chef/instructors, and being so generous with Michael’s time, not to mention all the fabulous espresso. We are grateful to Allison Hooper and Allison Woolf at the Vermont Cheese and Butter Creamery for providing us with cheese

and butter. Our deepest thanks go out to our mate in Australia, Brett Noy, who is preparing for the Pacific-Asia Louis Lesaffre Cup, to be held in China. Without his information about the competition, we would have not been as well. Good luck in China, Brett, and we hope to see you at the Coupe du Monde! ✹

“The 5th Annual Sigep Bread Cup was a fantastic

event; the camaraderie among the teams was

the essence of a true artisan community. I am

proud that Team USA will have the opportunity

to represent The Guild and the American baking

community next year by showcasing our national

products during the Sigep Bread Cup 2012.”

– DAVID DeCesARe

team Usa Wins at sigep Bread cup Continued from previous page

PHOTO: dara reimers

Left to right: Michael Rhoads, David DeCesare, and John Tredgold pose behind Loli Bread presentations.


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PROCESS Loli – Healthy Bread Preferments Levain Poolish Soaker Notes: Mixing Type of mixer Hand Hand Hand

First fermentation Length of time 12 - 18 hrs 12 - 18 hrs 12 - 18 hrs Lightly toast the sesame seeds Temperature 72°F 72°F Hot water Lightly toast the wheat germ Pinch of salt

Final doughMixing Type of mixer Spiral Mix style Improved 1st speed 3 mins Autolyse 10 mins 2nd speed 3 mins 2nd water addition 1st speed 1 min Add soaker Dough temp 75 - 77°F

First fermentation Length of time 90 mins Number of folds 1 Timing of folds 30 mins

Divide # Shape Weight # Units Div. weight # On a board Preshape TDW 30 Baguette 400g 30 400 10 batard 12000

Shape # Shape # on Couche # Couch Dusting 30 Baguette 6 5 Type 85

Proof & Bake # Shape Proof time Scoring Baking time 30 Baguette 45 mins 5 22

LOLI BREAD – SIGEP 2011 Healthy Bread

Total Dough Weight (TDW) 10.000 kg

Total Prefermented Total Prefermented Total Each Flour 48.00%in Levain 12.00% in Poolish 36.00% Prefermented Total White Flour 36.00% 36.00% Flour Pre-Type 85 40.00% Type 85 60.00% 100.00% fermented

TOTAL FOrMULA SOAker LevAiN POOLiSh FiNAL DOUghingredients % kilograms % kilograms % kilograms % kilograms ingredients kilograms

Total Flour 100.00% 5.537 kg 100.00% 0.664 kg 100.00% 1.993 kg Total Flour 2.879 kg

Bread Flour* 50.00% 2.769 kg 50.00% 0.997 kg White Flour – Bread 1.772 kg

Whole Wheat – Fine 20.00% 1.107 kg Whole Wheat – Fine 1.107 kg

Type 85 30.00% 1.661 kg 100.00% 0.664 kg 50.00% 0.997 kg

Water 70.00% 3.876 kg 100.00% 0.664 kg 100.00% 1.993 kg Water 1.218 kg

Salt 2.30% 0.127 kg 0.20% 0.004 kg Salt 0.123 kg

Yeast 0.20% 0.011 kg 0.10% 0.002 kg Yeast 0.009 kg

Sesame Seeds 3.00% 0.166 kg 100.00% 0.166 kg

Soaker Water 2.40% 0.133 kg 80.00% 0.133 kg

Sour Seed 2.40% 0.133 kg 20.00% 0.133 kg

Wheat Germ 0.20% 0.011 kg Wheat Germ 0.011 kg

Malted Barley Flour 0.10% 0.006 kg Malted Barley Flour 0.006 kg

Levain 1.462 kg

Poolish 3.993 kg

Soaker 0.299 kg

Totals 180.60% 10.000 kg 180.00% 0.299 kg 220.00% 1.462 kg 200.30% 3.993 kg 10.000 kg

The dough will be developed to an improved mixed stage at this point. Continue to mix in 2nd speed slowly adding the water until the dough comes together. Return the mixer to 1st speed. Add the soaker and mix until incorporated.

: Place the dough in a covered container and ferment for 90 minutes, completing one fold at 30 minutes.

SHAPE & BAkE: Divide the dough into 400g

pieces and preshape as a cylinder.

: After a 30 minute rest, shape into a baguette with pointed ends. Proof on couche, seam up, that has been dusted with type 85 flour.

: Allow to proof for 45 - 60 minutes at room temperature.

: Bake seam down in a deck oven at 440°F. Score before baking with 3 traditional baguettte cuts.

: The total bake time should be about 22 minutes. ✹

*Bread Flour is Hard Winter Wheat (11.7%-11.9% protein)


PREFERMEnTS: 12 hours before the final mix, prepare the

white levain and whole wheat levain, mix all ingredients until smooth.

: Cover and let rest 12 hours at 72-76°F.

FERMEnTED SOAkER: 12 hours before the final mix, dissolve the

wheat starter in 90 degree water before blending with the cracked wheat.

: Cover and let rest 12 hours at 72-76°F.

FInAL DOUGH: In a spiral mixer add all the ingredients

for the final mix, except the fermented soaker and the toasted walnut pieces. (Hold back 10-15% of the water to adjust for flour absorption rates.)

: Mix on speed one for 4 minutes, incorporating the reserved water as needed in the final minute.

: Mix on speed two for 3 minutes to develop the dough.

: Mix in the fermented soaker, and the walnuts on speed two for 2 minutes.

: Let the dough bulk ferment for 1 hour 10 minutes with two folds every 25 minutes.

SHAPInG AnD PROOFInG: To make the crowns, divide and

preshape 450 gram rounds and let rest seam side down on proofing boards.

: For the batards, divide and preshape 300 gram cylinders and let rest seam side up on proofing boards.

: For the tricoms, divide and preshape 350 gram rounds and let rest seam side up on proofing boards.

: Let pre-shaped doughs rest 20 minutes before final shaping.

: For the crowns, use your thumb to create a hole in the center of the rested round, gently expand the opening and let the crown proof on a well-floured linen, seam side up.

: Final shape the batard with a blunt end and let proof on well-floured linen with the seam side up.

: For the tricoms, use a rolling pin to flatten three edges of the rested round to create an equilateral triangle. Fold the first two edges into the center. Brush

the outline of the third edge with oil before folding over the top of the first two edges.

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WALnUT LEVAIn – SIGEP 2011

Total Flour Fermented Total Flour Fermented Total Flour Total Dough Weight (TDW) 26.866 kg in White Levain 39.56% in Whole Wheat Levain 17.96% Prefermented 57.52%

TOTAL FOrMULA FerMeNTeD SOAker WhiTe LevAiN WhOLe WheAT LevAiN FiNAL DOUghingredients % kilograms % kilograms % kilograms % kilograms ingredients kilograms

Total Flour 100.00% 13.194 kg 100.00% 5.219 kg 100.00% 2.370 kg Total Flour 5.605 kg

Bread Flour* 82.04% 10.824 kg 100.00% 5.219 kg Bread Flour 5.605 kg

Whole Wheat Flour 17.96% 2.370 kg 100.00% 2.370 kg

Water 67.58% 8.916 kg 55.00% 2.871 kg 85.00% 2.014 kg Water 4.032 kg

Cracked Wheat 4.57% 0.603 kg 100.00% 0.603 kg


Salt 2.03% 0.268 kg Salt 0.268 kg

Instant Yeast 0.04% 0.005 kg Instant Yeast 0.005 kg

Walnuts 16.90% 2.230 kg Walnuts 2.230 kg

Wheat Sour Seed 9.08% 1.198 kg 10.00% 0.060 kg 15.00% 0.783 kg 15.00% 0.355 kg

Fermented Soaker 1.115 kg

White Levain 8.873 kg

Whole Wheat Levain 4.739 kg

Totals 203.63% 26.866 kg 185.00% 1.115 kg 170.00% 8.873 kg 200.00% 4.739 kg 26.867 kg


Walnut Wheat levain By MICHAEl RHoADS

Walnut Wheat Levain uses fermented cracked wheat and a large percentage of

fermented flours in naturally leavened preferments to create a complex flavor

profile in a shortened production time of 4½ hours.

: Proof the tricom seam side down. Proof at 74 - 76°F for 45 minutes to 1 hour.

BAkInG: Bake in a steam injected oven at 460°F. The batards and crowns are baked seam down on the hearth, scored in your own fashion or style. The tricoms are baked seam side up with a stencil to highlight the top edge of the tricom, which will pop, creating a crisp edge.

: Baking time for the batards and tricoms is 20 - 25 minutes, with the vent open for the last 5 minutes. Baking time for the crowns is 25 - 30 minutes, with the vent open for the last 5 minutes. ✹

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b r e a d l i n e s – m a r c H 2 0 1 1 { 1 1 }

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DOUGH MIxInG : In the bowl of a spiral mixer, combine

all of the final ingredients except for the sugar, butter, and the soaker. All ingredients should be cold.

: Begin mixing on low speed for 3-5 minutes until ingredients are incorporated.

: Add the sugar. Once incorporated, continue to mix on high speed until there is significant gluten development. The dough will pull away from the sides of the bowl.

: Add the butter and mix until fully incorporated.

: Finally, on low speed, incorporate the soaker until well distributed.

: The desired final dough temperature is 78° - 80°F.

: Refrigerate the dough overnight.

HOnEy LAMInATIOn: In the bowl of a spiral mixer combine all

of the final ingredients.: Begin mixing on low speed for

3-5 minutes until ingredients are incorporated. Turn the mixer to high speed for 5 minutes until the dough

cranberry torta By DAvID DeCESARE

A shawl of honey croissant provides a delicate crispy crunch as an

introduction to the light spongy texture of an enriched sweet tart

panettone within. It is studded with cranberries and has a hint of

corn, traditional flavors of the early American settlers. Zest of lemon

and orange lends a bright citrus flare.

begins to develop. The gluten should be at a medium stage of development.

: The desired final dough temperature is 78° - 80°F.

: Refrigerate the dough overnight.: At the end of the fermentation cycle,

laminate the dough using two double folds. Allow the dough to rest in the freezer for approximately 20 minutes between the folds and after the final fold.

ASSEMBLy: Sheet the dough to approximately 2mm

thick. Cut 2.5 cm x 25 cm (1”x10”) strips of dough to line the 5 cm x 7 cm (2”x3”) rectangular molds.

: Place a 40g oblong loaf of cranberry torta in the center of each mold.

(This technique works well as circular forms also.)

PROOFInG AnD BAkInG: Place the pastry in a proof box with

humidity at approximately 80°F for 1 hour. : Bake with steam at 380°F for

approximately 15 minutes. : When cool, dust the lamination with powdered sugar. ✹

SOAkER

TOTAL FOrMULAingredients % kilograms

Corn Meal 100.00% 1.020 kg

Corn, pureed 100.00% 1.020 kg

Milk 49.00% 0.500 kg

Cranberries, dried 174.02% 1.775 kg

Lemon Juice 4.90% 0.050 kg

Orange Juice 4.90% 0.050 kg

Lemon Zest 1.00% 0.010 kg

Orange Zest 1.00% 0.010 kg

Totals 434.82% 4.435 kg

HOnEy LAMInATIOn


Bread Flour 100.00% 6.092 kg

Milk 52.00% 3.168 kg

Salt 2.13% 0.130 kg

Instant Yeast 1.50% 0.091 kg

Honey 20.00% 1.218 kg

Butter 11.18% 0.725 kg

Totals 186.81% 11.380 kg

Butter for Roll In 21.00% 2.390 kg

CRAnBERRy TORTA DOUGH


Bread Flour* 100.00% 4.430 kg

Milk 18.06% 0.800 kg

Salt 2.14% 0.095 kg


Sugar 22.00% 0.975 kg

Eggs 29.00% 1.285 kg

Butter 40.10% 1.776 kg

Soaker 100.11% 4.435 kg

Totals 313.89% 13.905 kg

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February 4-5The Wonders oF BriocheMacrina Bakery – Seattle, WAIn this sold-out class taught by Macrina Bakery owner Leslie Mackie, versatile bri-oche doughs were used to create savory and sweet items such as breakfast egg bialy sandwiches, fresh fruit pull-aparts, Nutella-filled pastries, cocoa puff mini-loaf, kugelhopf, raisin brioche twist, and roasted vegetable savory bread pudding.

March 19ArTisAn BreAds: FlAvors oF The souThWesTThe Culinary Institute of AmericaSan Antonio, TXJeff Yankellow from Bread Bakers Guild Team USA 2005 will teach you how to take traditional artisan bread formulas and transform them into something unique, using Southwestern ingredients like chipotle peppers, jalapeños, corn and mesquite meal.

March 26-27AMericAn BAking in The heArTlAndKendall College – Chicago, ILJory Downer, a second-generation Midwestern baker and a member of Team USA 2005, will teach the class to make typical regional ethnic baked foods, including paczki, brown bag apple pie, kolachky, Bavarian pretzels, bienenstich, and apple strudel.

April 9-10 Blue riBBon BAking: A decAde oF sTATe FAir BAkingGeneral Mills Bakeries and Foodservice Culinary Center – Minneapolis, MNDan “Klecko” McGleno of the St. Agnes Baking Company will share unusual and popular recipes from the Minnesota State Fair, e.g. hand-dipped pretzel bread, South African sourdough, Old World potato bricks, Polish mother doughs, and red wine/black pepper biscotti.

Details . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Check the Guild website, www.bbga.org, for registration details.

America is still a young country. Throughout its history, Americanshave taken the best of what has come before and attempted, often with great success, to make it better. America, as a nation of immigrants, has benefited greatly from a steady flow of ideas and experiences from abroad washing up upon its shores. As with other industries, one can look at baking and see the direct result of someone bringing with them either the seed of an idea or a skill with many generations of practice behind it. Baking in America truly reflects the “melting pot” effect of our immigrant culture. But what makes baking in America truly special is the culture of innovation. When you mix tradition and practice with innovation, you have the opportunity to truly advance a craft. Much tradition exists today in baking in America. But it is the refinement of that tradition, along with the hard work and innovation of today’s bakers, that has brought baking in America to its current level.

it is the celebration of baking in America, brought to us by immigrant bakers and coupled with ingenuity and dedication of today’s generation of bakers, that The guild hopes to honor and explore this year with Breadville, usA: exploring local Baking in America.

– Tod Bramble, Guild Board Member and King Arthur Flour Company

regiOnal EVEnTS

May 13-14BreAds FroM The WoodBurning ovenKing Arthur Flour Baking EducationCenter – Norwich, VTThis class taught by Jeffrey Hamelman of King Arthur Flour and Team USA 1996 will compare different types of wood-burning ovens and demonstrate how breads baked in a wood-burning oven differ from those baked in conventional ovens.

June 18-19inTroducTion To ArTisAn BreAdSan Francisco Baking Institute South San Francisco, CAThis workshop will teach the basics of shaping, scoring, and baking artisan bread and will focus on classic baguettes, ciabatta, and naturally leavened breads such as multigrain and semolina.

H June 25guild-Wide BAkery open houseMultiple locationsSo far, 47 member bakeries from 25 states and 2 Canadian provinces have signed up to participate in this one-day event. Each bakery will determine the scope and hours of its own open house. To add your bakery to the list, contact Laverne Dicker – [email protected] or 707-935-1468.

July 16lesAFFre yeAsT FAcTory TourCedar Rapids, IowaJoin a Guild tour group for a rare glimpse into the workings of a yeast extract factory. The factory in Iowa, built in 2006, is one of two plants in the US operated by Red Star Yeast Company, a joint venture of Lesaffre Yeast Corporation and Archer Daniels Midland Company.

July 21 FroM The pillsBury dough Boy To ArTisAn BreAdThe International Culinary Center – NYCAmy Scherber has a unique perspective on baking: her father worked for Pillsbury, and she now owns Amy’s Bread, a thriving artisan bakery in New York City. In this two-hour lecture, she will share her reminiscences about growing up in a Pillsbury family and will trace the baking journey that led to her becoming an artisan bread baker.


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After years of big dreams and dashed hopes, I’m pleased to report that the Guild website is going to be greatly improved. The Website Committee worked throughout 2010 to figure out a plan, find a developer and make this thing

happen, once and for all. We are taking the approach that this is a living site and that we will be making ongoing changes and keeping content up-to-date as much as humanly possible. // Our goals are two-fold: to show the world that The Guild is the one-stop-shop for everything anyone could want to know about artisan baking, and to provide better services and content for our members. // The first phase is to launch the public side of the website, with more comprehensive information and easier navigation. We want every member to be able to direct customers and interested parties to the website to get an idea of what we do as artisan bakers, and will be introducing a new section which talks a bit about how great bread is made and includes some technical articles and a formula. // The second phase is to work on the Guild Member Area, and this is where we could definitely use some help. I’ve talked to some members who have great ideas for content, and we’ll be building a dynamic infrastructure that will allow us to move into the 21st century. In support of this forward progress, a few Board members are working on videos, trying to get our Facebook page going, and generally thinking about ways to be more available to our membership and the public. // One major change we’re working on is moving the Yahoo! eGroup to the website, and to use forum software to communicate easily by topic thread, upload pictures directly to posts, and involve moderators to help keep things organized. We think it’s going to be incredibly useful to everyone and will hopefully increase participation. As in the present eGroup, there will be threads about wood-fired ovens, generating steam in home ovens, technical threads about processes, plus reports from classes and Guildhall Gatherings… and threads about shoes or barbecue or ways to cope with the crazy hours we work. Really, anything goes, just like the eGroup, but in a more organized fashion so everyone can find what they’re looking for. // The biggest goal is to get all of our content posted in a more accessible manner. We’re going to post class materials so everyone can access the information, regardless of location or ability to travel. And the big plan is to get all of the issues of Bread Lines into some kind of usable format, with an index. The hope is that you’ll be able to search the archives and find the information you want. I anticipate this won’t be finished until 2012 or so, because there’s quite a lot of work to do in this area. // Generally, we’re doing our best to make the website reflect who we are and to serve our membership better. We have a ton of knowledge in this group, and we dearly need one place to corral it all. And finally, I ask for your patience – this is a big project,

and everything takes longer than we’d like. And I know there will be some screwy things and broken things, and we’ll fix them as they come to our attention, so please keep us posted on anything strange you stumble across. ✹

August 12-13BAgueTTes six WAysJohnson & Wales – Denver, COThis intensive class, taught by Jeffrey Hamelman, will give students the opportunity to compare a variety of baguette formulas and techniques and will include extensive hands-on shaping and scoring practice.

september 17-18inTroducTion To lAMinATed viennoiserieSan Francisco Baking Institute South San Francisco, CAStudents in this class, which will be taught by an SFBI faculty member, will explore various lamination techniques and learn the basics of baking yeasted breakfast pastries such as croissants and Danish.

september 23-24BAking WiTh Whole grAinsLe Cordon Bleu – Miami, FLPonsford’s Place in San Rafael, California, makes baked goods using only whole-grain flour, primarily fruit for sweetening, and ingredients from the local farmer’s market. Bakery owner Craig Ponsford, a member of Team USA 1996, will teach you about the challenges and advantages of baking with whole-milled flour.

october 28-29BAking WiTh locAlly groWn grAinsKing Arthur Flour Baking EducationCenter – Norwich, VTJeffrey Hamelman will cover a variety of breads, all using locally grown and milled grains. In addition to the bread baking, there will be discussions about flour testing, assessment for baking applications, and grain research, local grain initiatives and their effects on bakers.

november 5-6TeAching ArTisAn BAking Johnson & Wales – Providence, RIKnowing how to bake is one thing, but teaching others how to do it is another. Richard Miscovich, Associate Professor at Johnson & Wales University, will focus on effective approaches and hands-on activities that demystify the process of teaching artisan bread production to home or professional bakers.

http://www.bbga.org/website.updateBy SOLVEIG TOFTE Board Chair and Owner, Sun Street Breads, Minneapolis, MN


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wOrld’s fair OF BREAD

german baking

1 2

3

5

4

6

1 The breads. 2 Yvan Chartrand of Tree Stone Bakery. 3 Sunflower

Walnut Rye Bread 4 Martin Barnett dips pretzels. 5 Volker explains the

art and science of baking with 100% rye. 6 An example of the braiding

techniques learned in the class.


MIxInG METHOD LEVAIn : Mix together rye flour,

starter, and water to a sourdough temperature of 82°F (28°C).

: Fermentation time: 15-24 hours at 82°F (24°C)

: Soak sunflower seeds and walnuts for at least 6 hours. Temperature: 75°F (24°C)

MIxInG METHOD FInAL DOUGH : Add all ingredients to bowl

except for the walnuts and soaker and mix on low. speed for 2 minutes, high speed for 4 minutes in spiral mixer.

: Add walnut and sunflower soaker and mix on low speed for 1 minute until they are incorporated.

: Dough temperature: 79°F (26°C).

FERMEnTATIOn: First Fermentation: 20 minutes.

SHAPInG AnD PROOFInG: Scale dough into 1070g units and round. : Place with seam down into round proofing baskets and moisten

the surface and sprinkle with sunflower seeds.: Proof for 35-40 minutes (¾ proof) and place into the oven with a

peel or oven loading device, seeded side up.

BAkInG: Bake at 500°F (260°C) for 10 minutes, then reduce temperature to 400°F (204°C) for and additional 50 minutes. ✹

german baking August 16– 17 Hosted bySAIT PolytechnicCalgary, AB

InstructorVolker BaumannAssisted by Leopold Newsimal

Guildhall GatheringHosted by Horizon Milling, a Cargill Foods Affiliate atSAIT Polytechnic, Calgary, AB

wOrld’s fair OF BREAD

Sunflower Walnut Rye Bread Contributed by VOLkER BAUMAnn

SUnFLOWER WALnUT RyE BREAD

Total FlourTotal Dough Weight (TDW) 20.000 kg Prefermented 24.00%

TOTAL FOrMULA SOAker rYe LevAiN FiNAL DOUghingredients % kilograms % kilograms % kilograms ingredients kilograms

Total Flour 100.00% 10.370 kg 100.00% 2.461 kg Total Flour 10.000 kg

Bread Flour* 40.00% 4.148 kg Bread Flour 4.418 kg

Rye Flour Medium 60.00% 6.222 kg 100.00% 2.461 kg Rye Flour 3.761 kg

Water 74.00% 7.674 kg 80.00% 1.969 kg Water 5.705 kg

Salt 1.80% 0.187 kg Salt 0.187 kg

Yeast (fresh) 1.60% 0.166 kg Yeast 0.166 kg

Walnuts 5.00% 0.518 kg 100.00% 0.518 kg

Sunflower Seeds (roasted) 5.00% 0.518 kg 100.00% 0.518 kg


Soaker 1.555 kg

Rye Sourdough Starter 0.47% 0.049 kg 2.00% 0.049 kg

Rye Levain 4.479 kg

Totals 192.87% 20.000 kg 250.00% 1.555 kg 180.00% 4.479 kg 20.000 kg

PROCESS – Sunflower Walnut RyePreferments Rye Levain SoakerMixing Type of mixer Hand or mixer Hand

First fermentation Length of time 15 - 24 hours 6 hours minimum Temperature 82°F 75°F

Final DoughMixing Type of mixer Spiral Mix style Improved 1st speed 2 mins Autolyse – 1st speed – 2nd speed 4 mins Dough temp 79°F

First fermentation Length of time 20 mins

Shaping Divide 1.070 kg Preshape – resting time – Shape Round Proofing device Banneton seam down Wet surface, sprinkle w/ sunflower seeds

Proof & Bake Final proof time 35 - 40 mins Oven type Deck Steam Yes Total bake 60 mins Temperature 500°F for 10 mins 400°F for 50 mins



I was fortunate to be able to attend the recent Guild class, “The Wonders of Brioche,” taught by Leslie Mackie at her well-established Macrina Bakery in the So Do District of Seattle, Washington. The class spanned two days: three hours on Friday and six hours on Saturday, and there were 12 students, some of whom had traveled from as far away as North Carolina. The required skill level was described as “Beginning to advanced. Enthusiasm is the only requirement.” I have to admit, that was spot on, because I have been baking for many years, and I certainly walked away with new knowledge and a renewed appreciation for our craft.

This was my first opportunity to get to know Leslie; I had met her once before but never had a chance to bake with her and see her in action. The one thing that became apparent right from the start was that she is an extremely talented baker, and even more than that, a fabulous product developer. Her approach to brioche, and I assume baking in general, seemed to be that you don’t have to follow strict parameters on all products, just use sound baking practices and your imagination. I say this because Leslie’s

brioche differed from the other types I have made in the past. I have always made brioche with a higher percentage of butter and in more traditional shapes. Leslie’s creative mind saw many more uses for this tasty dough, and better profit margins because of the lower food cost.

An important step in the brioche process is developing adequate dough strength in order to uphold the other ingredients, while insuring a light and airy loaf. Many brioche formulas have a high percentage of butter, 40% or more, which yields a cake-like loaf. Ingredients such as fat, water, or sugar act as softening agents, and the baker must find a way to balance the need for strength in doughs that call for a high percentage of these ingredients. A traditional approach to achieving this balance would be to hold the cool butter out of the mix and add it only after the gluten structure has been developed.

Leslie’s approach to this versatile dough, while founded on established baking principles, differs from traditional methods. During the mixing stage she withholds the sugar, not the butter, from the dough, until the desired dough

strength is achieved. Leslie’s formula calls for a reduced amount of butter (22%, as compared to 40% and more in traditional formulas). As a result, she is able to add it to the dough at the beginning of the mix without much negative effect on gluten development. She does hold back the sugar until the end of the mix to minimize its impact on dough strength.

The reduced butter amount is an important element of Leslie’s method. She targets a 78 degree dough temperature at the end of mixing and even warms the milk to room temperature before adding the yeast. Most bakers using a traditional approach would target the coolest dough temperature possible, even chilling ingredients prior to mixing and then refrigerating the dough after the mix.

Leslie’s dough is then bulk fermented for two hours and noticeably develops strength that would not have been possible if the dough had come off the mixer cool, as many other methods suggest. Again, this is made possible because of the reduced butter content.

Additional strength was also achieved in the dough through the use of ascorbic acid, which was already present in the

Leslie and the students shaping Bialys the Macrina way.

all PHOTOs: micHael eggebrecHT

breadville USA

creATive Brioche. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

By Michael Eggebrecht Guild Member and Bakery Consultant


Editor’s note: A thorough review of brioche has just been written by James MacGuire, a baker from Montreal, Quebec and will appear in The Art of Eating, number 87, March 2011.

James has written previous articles for the Art of Eating (AOE) on pain au levain (AOE, 2009 number 83), and the baguette (AOE, 2006, numbers 73+74).

flour. I didn’t talk with the miller, but a typical amount added in the flour at the mill would be around 25 parts per million. This would assist in preventing the shaped products from spreading during their long overnight stay in the cooler.

We made two types of brioche, a sweet and a savory: the main difference between the two was the percentage of sugar and the amount of vanilla, with the sweet version having 3.75% more sugar and 1.82% more vanilla, and the butter being around 22.5% in both formulas. The versatility of this dough goes beyond my past experiences. All in all, we made eight significantly different products during the course. With the sweet brioche we made Kugelhopf, Cinnamon Apple Pull-Apart, Brioche Nutella, Cocoa Puff Mini Loaf,

and Raisin Brioche Twist. I thought the biggest surprise of the course was the use of the savory brioche in the Onion Bialys. This was a pleasant surprise, as the Bialy was just right when used for a breakfast sandwich with egg and bacon.

After spending a couple of days with Leslie, I walked away thinking about how I sometimes go about product development and wondered if I allow deep-rooted tradition to inhibit my creative mind. I now think differently about brioche, and the lessons learned in those 10 hours at Macrina Bakery will impact my craft positively in other areas as well. ✹

Formula on next page

Left: Kugelhopf made with the sweet brioche dough. Right: Leslie Mackie explains the technique for folding the brioche dough around the Nutella filling.

Clockwise from left: Leslie Mackie shows

off the finished Brioche Nutella rolls. Marie-

Claude Duytschaever,Tom Flint, and John

Licata shaping the Raisin Brioche Twist. Cocoa Puff Mini Loaf

made with sweet brioche dough, filled

with a semi-sweet chocolate ganache, and topped with a

chocolate glaze.

February 4-5

The WondersoF Brioche hosted byMacrina BakerySeattle, WA

instructorLeslie Mackie

guildhall gatheringMacrina BakeryLeslie Mackie

breadville USA


sWeeT Brioche dough: Dough is mixed with the finished temperature of 78 - 79°F.: Scale into lightly oiled buckets, 15lbs per bucket.: Let proof in bucket (80°F Room temperature) for approximately 2 hours.: Retard in walk in for 6 - 12 hours.: Pull dough out and allow to come to room temperature, approximately

2 hours.

BAked Apples: Peel and seed apples, cut into wedges.: Toss in sugar, cinnamon and flour.: Bake on parchment for 15 minutes at 325°F.: Drain off extra liquid, coarsely chop.

cinnAMon sugAr MixTure: Mix all ingredients together.

BuTTerMilk glAze: Sift powdered sugar into bowl.: Slowly pour buttermilk in to make glaze.

shAping And AsseMBly: Flatten dough to 21” x 6”. Dimple to make even thickness.: Divide into desired shape, 1lb 10 ounce pieces.: Spread chopped baked apples over dough, sprinkle with cinnamon

sugar mixture.: Roll up like a cinnamon roll, with seam

down on the table.: Cut in 2” pieces. Place 4 per paper mold

(13-14 oz total).: This piece of brioche should make 3 mini

loaves.

prooFing: Place in paper baking mold and proof

at room temperature for 1-2 hours. The brioche will rise just taller than the edge of the baking mold.

BAking: Eggwash, sprinkle with a little more

cinnamon sugar mixture and bake at 335°F for 35 minutes with a quick shot of steam.

: Let cool for 1 hour and drizzle with buttermilk glaze. ✹

BAked Apples

TOTAL FOrMULAingredients kilograms

Apple Wedges 2.620 kg

Sugar 0.140 kg

Cinnamon 0.007 kg

All Purpose Flour 0.020 kg

Totals 2.787 kg

sWeeT Brioche dough


Total Flour 100.00% 6.122 kg


Milk 51.85% 3.174 kg

Eggs 22.22% 1.360 kg

Sugar 13.85% 0.848 kg

Butter 22.22% 1.360 kg

Salt 1.41% 0.086 kg


Vanilla Extract 2.59% 0.159 kg

Totals 214.81% 13.150 kg

process – Sweet Brioche, Croissant DoughFinal doughMixing Type of mixer Spiral Mix style Intensive 1st speed 4 mins 2nd speed 12 - 15 mins Dough temp 78°F

First fermentation Length of time 2 hours

Shaping Shape As desired

Proof & Bake Final proof time Varies, some retarded Oven type Rack Steam Yes Total bake Varies Temperature Varies

cinnAMon sugAr MixTure


Granulated Sugar 0.480 kg

Brown Sugar 0.480 kg

Cinnamon 0.030 kg

Nutmeg 0.020 kg

Totals 1.010 kg

BuTTerMilk glAze


Powdered Sugar 0.240 kg

Buttermilk 0.050 kg

Totals 0.290 kg

cinnAMon Apple pull-A-pArT


Sweet Brioche Dough 0.740 kg

Baked Apple, chopped 0.390 kg

Cinnamon Sugar Mixture 0.030 kg

Totals 1.160 kg


breadville USA

cinnAMon Applepull-ApArT Contributed by Leslie Mackie

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By LAVERnE DICkER Guild Staff, Sonoma, CA

PHOTOs: abram faber

On January 15, guild members gathered

at Craig Ponsford’s new bakery, Ponsford’s Place, in San

Rafael, California, for an evening of conversation, laughter,

and camaraderie. Some of them had known each other

previously only through the Guild’s Yahoo eGroup and

were meeting in person for the first time.

The crowd of over 40 people also included Craig’s family,

neighborhood fans of the bakery, and The Guild’s Board of

Directors, who were in Sonoma for a Board meeting. The

refreshments provided by Ponsford’s Place included fresh-

baked pretzels and pizzarollios, which disappeared quickly.

San Rafael Guildhall Gathering..............................................................

January 15, 2011

Hosted by

Ponsford’s Place

san rafael, ca

craig Ponsford, facility liaison

TOP: Robert Jörin and Evelyne Suas talk outside Ponsford’s Place. Bread Man (right) is usually the signal to the bakery’s customers that fresh bread is available, but his presence at the Guildhall Gathering was purely decorative. ABOVE: Guild members at the San Rafael Guildhall Gathering: (clockwise from bottom right) Andy Clark, Board member; Laverne Dicker; Guild staff; Solveig Tofte, Board Chair; Robin O’Donnell, Ode E O’Dough; Michel Suas, San Francisco Baking Institute; Evelyne Suas. LEFT: Craig Ponsford shares a laugh with Team USA member Mike Zakowski (right) and a bakery customer.

regiOnal EVEnTS


baking 101

down yeast activity. this will produce more consistent flavor and texture in the product.

salt is very hygroscopic, meaning it attracts moisture. It will increase the shelf life of products by delaying the staling process in dry climates. however, in wet and humid climates it will decrease shelf life and promote a soggy crust.

Its hygroscopic qualities will also contribute to the coloration of the crust (by retaining moisture) and, depending on when it is added during the mixing process, the salt will definitively affect the crumb coloration by slowing down oxidation. If the salt is added at the end of the mixing time, this extensive oxidation of the dough will provide a whiter crumb and a greater loss of aroma than if the salt is added at the beginning of the mixing time.

M i l k

When we talk about milk, we are referring to cow’s milk, and in baking, we usually use whole milk with around

3.6 % fat content, 87% water, 5% lactose, 3.5% protein and approximately .7% vitamins and minerals. since milk spoils quickly, it receives a number of treatments (pasteurization, sterilization, or dehydration) to increase its shelf life. Different conservation processes are, heat, which includes pasteurization at 185°F for several seconds, and sterilization at 24O°F for 15 to 20 minutes.

Concentration, which includes the meth-ods for making condensed milk, in which 41% of the water is removed, sweetened condensed milk, where the 41% removed water is replaced with sugar, as well as evaporated milk. In this process, 45% of the water is removed and the product is sterilized at 240°F for 20 minutes.

Dehydration, which produces powdered milk by removing the water, and in most, cases the fat, to increase the shelf life of the product.

Characteristics and roles of milk

Because of its high water content (around 87%), milk will contribute to the hydration of the dough and start the gluten

{ e d i t o r ’ s n o t e }

With 2013 being the 20th Anniversary of the founding of The Bread Bakers Guild of America, we wanted to begin this year to take a look back at some of The Guild’s many accomplishments. Throughout this year we will be running a series called “Baking 101,”

in which we will be reprinting excerpts from articles previously published in Bread Lines. While much has changed in baking over the last 20 years, many of the subjects we plan

to cover are so fundamental that we could all use a refresher course in them.

101• •• B a k i n g • • •

Technology of IngredientsBy Philippe Le Corre

e x c e r p t e d f r o m b r e a d l i n e s · 1 9 9 9 · v o l u m e 7 · i s s u e 3

s a l t

the salt we use in baking has the chemical formulation naCl (sodium chloride).

the first main natural source, sea salt, extracted at a rate of 1 oz per liter of water, is obtained by evaporation, either by the action of the sun or by decanting in tank storage. the other natural source, rock salt, is at least 90% pure as it is extracted from the ancient underground seas.

Characteristics and roles of salt in baking

the presence of salt will potentiate the flavor of other ingredients (like butter or flour), and of course bring to the product a very characteristic taste of its own.

salt will change the plasticity of the dough by reinforcing the gluten structure and increasing elasticity. the strength of the dough will improve. Adding salt to the dough makes stronger doughs because it affects the interactions between proteins but also it decreases the amount of “free water.”

salt also contributes to good control of the fermentation process by slowing


baking 101

structure formation as soon as it is in contact with the flour.

the aqueous phase of milk includes lactose (sugar) and some minerals (potassium, sodium chloride).

Milk increases the final coloration and affects the texture of the product due to the presence of lactose and fat in an emulsified state.

the lactose of the milk will also enhance flavor and bring sweetness to the dough.

nutritional value is also one of the important roles of milk in baking. Casein protein (the main protein of the milk) is very important for human growth, and milk also contains various vitamins (A, B2, C, D, e) and minerals.

F a t s

the types of fats that we use in the bakery and in the food industry are of animal or vegetable origin, or both. Whatever their origin might be, fats are generally high in calories. the fats of animal origin include all types of butter, lard and certain types of margarine. the fats of vegetable origin include margarine, shortening and most types of liquid oils.

Characteristics of fats

By coating some of the gluten forming proteins (glutenin and gliadin) and delaying gluten structure development during mixing time fats will affect the structure of products. therefore, it is extremely important to delay the incorporation of a high percentage of fats in dough until the proper gluten structure is achieved.

In laminated doughs, fat presents a barrier that is not penetrated to any significant degree by proteins. In this case, the fat layer produces a structural discontinuity or weakness in the dough that is easily separated by steam of CO2 during proofing and baking of the pastry.

Due to a lack of plasticity and a low melting point (especially with butter), special care must be taken regarding the timing of incorporating fats, as well as the dough temperature during this incorporation.

the fat’s plasticity (especially for butter) should be reworked to favor a smooth and quick incorporation into the dough, and the dough temperature must be closely monitored to prevent any melting of the fat by too much mixing friction.

Fat functionality depends on the fraction of liquid vs. solid fat at any temperature, and on the size, shape, and the degree of interconnection of the fat crystals that make up the solid phase. Because the chemical composition of natural fats is very complex, the size and shape of the fat crystals is incredibly sensitive to temperature, temperature history, time, and how much the fat has been worked (working can break the connections between crystals or break the crystals themselves). A very small change in the degree of interconnection can have a major effect on texture.

Butter obtained from carefully selected high butterfat creams and milks will enhance the flavor and color of the product. Proper maturation of milk or cream prior to churning is crucial to developing the principal flavor agent of the butter, diacetyl.

Maturation lasts approximately 6 to 8 hours in a carefully controlled environment at 55°F. this enhances the flavor development (acidity) and texture of the butter.

Of course, if margarine or shortening is selected, those flavor effects will be virtually eliminated.

e g g s

the egg is made of three parts:

the calcareous shell that is porous allows exchanges between the outside and the inside of the egg.

the egg yolk (30% of the egg weight) is kept in suspension in the egg white by two elastic ligaments called chalaza and is surrounded by a membrane called vitellin.

the egg white is comprised of water soluble proteins with a coagulation temperature of 150°F, compared to 160°F for the egg yolk.

Main roles played by the egg white and the egg yolk

While the egg white contains only traces of fat, the yolk contains much more (32%). thus, it definitely affects the structure and texture of yeast-raised, resulting in a tighter crumb structure and a softer texture.

the egg yolk contains lecithin, an emulsifier that helps in stabilizing liquid/fat emulsions: this emulsifying property is extensively used in cake mixing and in the homogenization of creams.

the composition of the egg white is mostly water (around 86%) and albumin protein (around 13%), while the egg yolk contains approximately 49% water, 32% fat, and a higher percentage of proteins (17%).

egg yolk and egg white proteins help bind liquids together under the action of heat, and they also help color the dough masses and creams into which they are mixed.

Meanwhile, the egg white protein has a very important technological faculty: its foaming power, which is very often used as a developing agent. During mixing, millions of air bubbles are trapped and form foam that will expand under the influence of heat in the oven, causing the product to rise.

Lecithin and egg white proteins both contribute to the emulsification of fats and to the formation of foams. under any particular set of circumstances, an emulsifier or water-soluble protein might be more effective stabilizing a foam or an emulsion, but essentially all emulsifiers also stabilize foams.

All emulsifiers and nearly all water-soluble proteins have portions of their molecules that like to be in water, and other parts that want nothing more than to get away from water. these molecules tend to concentrate at the boundaries between water and air (foam) or between water and oil (emulsion). At that bound-ary, the water-loving part of the molecule faces toward (or penetrates into) water and the water-hating part of the molecule points toward (or penetrates into) the



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air or oil. since the most important thing is getting the water-hating part of the molecule away from water, it doesn’t mat-ter whether the non-water substance is air or oil. so, nearly any molecule that can stabilize an emulsion will also stabilize foam, and vice versa.

s U g a r s

Most plants on the planet produce a wide variety of sugars, primarily in the form of glucose, fructose, and to a lesser degree, sucrose. With the exception of lactose (extracted from milk), the other sugars are all of plant origin. the main sucrose producing plants are the sugar beet and the sugar cane.

sugar cane extraction is the oldest method known. It was developed around 500 B.C. in India and was for a long time the only method of sugar production until the 19th century, when a French scientist by the name of Delessert discovered and developed the cane sugar extraction process.

sucrose and other sweetening substances are classified as carbohydrates. We usually refer to “sugar” as being saccharose and composed of small, hard and pure crystals: this classification includes all types of granulated sugars (crystal to superfine and all forms of powdered sugars). In chemical terms, sucrose is made up of one molecule of glucose and one molecule of fructose.

Technological properties of sugars

In high concentration, they are good conservation agents. By preventing the growth of microorganisms and by their water retention (hygroscopic) abilities, sugars help stabilize the moisture level of the product and therefore increase the shelf life in the final product.

sugars (as well as salts) inhibit microbial growth by an osmotic effect. When a microbe lands in a concentrated sugar solution (like honey) the microbe’s cellular water is sucked out into the surrounding sugar solution. under these

conditions, the microbial growth rate is very small or zero.

sugars reinforce water retention and enhance the softness of the crumb by assisting in the incorporation of liquids into the dough. they act as texturizing agents, contributing to the hardness or softness of certain finished products. they will enhance and reinforce flavors and of course sweeten the products that they are associated with.

sugars will give yeasted doughs a different level of mechanical and physical resis-tance and change their rheological (elas-ticity and extensibility) characteristics, depending on the ratio of sugar to flour.

A percentage of sugar under 6% will increase the strength of the dough, while a percentage over 12% will decrease the strength of the dough.

sugars have a direct effect on color and flavor of products due to the caramelization reaction (the heat of the oven causes some of the sugar contained in bread and cakes to caramelize on the product surface), as well as the Maillard reaction (a reaction that occurs when a blend of proteins and reducing sugars is heated) the Maillard reaction occurs between reducing sugars (fructose and glucose in this case) and proteins. sucrose and proteins by themselves would not be expected to give a strong browning reaction. so, sucrose is converted by yeast to fructose and glucose. the yeast preferentially consumes glucose. At any time during fermentation and the early phases of baking we have a mixture of sucrose, glucose, and fructose.

the amount and character of the browning and flavor development will depend on this sugar mixture, protein concentration, water concentration, ph and temperature.

sugars can be used to create a decorative effect on certain finished products, such as brioche and panettone. several grades of sugar, like coarse or pearl, are available to enhance the products’ presentation.

sugar delays gluten structure development by absorbing the water available to the flour proteins (gliadin

and glutenin). this explains why a high percentage of sugar must be incorporated in steps, to ensure proper gluten structure development.

It provides food for the yeast cells to increase fermentation activity (up to 6% of sugar to flour) or decrease fermentation activity (more than 13% of sugar to flour).

the availability of water necessary for the yeast cells will decrease with higher concentrations of sugar in the dough, and the osmotic pressure will increase, resulting in a slowdown of the fermentation activity.

sugar promotes the incorporation of air and reinforces the stability of foams in cake mixing. the effect is probably due to the following: sugar increases the viscosity of the fluid phase between bubbles. this means the liquid film between two bubbles drains more slowly and is possibly more stable against mild mechanical shock. ✹

Writer’s Note: My most sincere thanks to Peter Pesheck and the Pillsbury group for their assistance with this article.

baking 101

technology of IngredientsContinued from previous page

Philippe le Corre, CMB, is Senior Corporate Chef at HJ Heinz, where he designs and develops desserts and represents the company with major customers in the United States and Canada. He is a member of the advisory board of le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts in Minneapolis, Minnesota, and was selected in 2010 by the American Culinary Federation certification board to help redesign the curricu-lum and exam for executive pastry chef certification.


Team FORMULAS

THERE WAS An ERROR In THE PACIFIC BREEzE FORMULA THAT WAS PUBLISHED In VOLUME 18, ISSUE 4. THIS IS THE CORRECTED VERSIOn.

CROISSAnT DOUGH MIxInG METHOD: Place all ingredients in 20 qt mixer. Mix

on 1st speed for 3 minutes then switch to 2nd speed and mix an additional 2 - 4 minutes to lightly develop the gluten. Place in plastic tub and ferment overnight.

: The next day degas the dough and form into a rectangle. Place dough in freezer on a sheet pan for about 30 minutes. Then prepare the butter block.

: Remove dough from the freezer and give it three single folds. Let rest for one hour after last turn.

PASTRy CREAM AnD CARAMELIzED PInEAPPLES: To prepare the pastry cream, place milk,

vanilla bean, salt, and half of the sugar in a pot and bring to a boil. Mix the yolks, sugar and pastry cream powder together until smooth and temper in hot milk. Place back on burner and cook until boiling. Whisk while boiling for about 2 minutes. Pour out onto a parchment-lined sheet pan and cover with plastic wrap. Place in freezer to cool quickly.

: For the caramelized pineapple, chop the fresh pineapple into desired size and place in shallow cake pan or baking dish. Dry caramelize the 200 grams of sugar. Slowly whisk in the butter until smooth. Immediately pour over the pineapple and place in 360°F oven and cook for about 25 minutes. Stir the pineapple about every 10 minutes to coat evenly with caramel. Remove from the oven and cool in the fridge.

CROISSAnT DOUGH

Total Dough Weight (TDW) 100.00% 2.600 kg



Water 30.53% 0.455 kg

Milk 24.47% 0.365 kg

Sugar 12.00% 0.179 kg

Salt 2.00% 0.030 kg


Butter 4.00% 0.060 kg

Malt 0.50% 0.007 kg

Total 174.50% 2.600 kg

Roll-in Butter 25.00% 0.650 kg

PACiFiC BreeZeInspired by the State of Hawaii – contains pineapple and coconut.

By JEREMEy GADOUAS

PASTRy CREAM


Whole Milk 100.00% 0.372 kg

Egg Yolks 13.90% 0.052 kg

Sugar 22.70% 0.084 kg

Salt 0.50% 0.002 kg

Pastry Cream Powder 6.70% 0.025 kg

Vanilla Bean 0.50% 0.002 kg

Total 199.00% 0.537 kg

CARAMELIzED PInEAPPLES


Pineapples 100.00% 0.302 kg

Sugar 66.00% 0.199 kg

Butter 33.00% 0.099 kg

Total 199.00% 0.600 kg

*Bread Flour is Winter Wheat (11.7-11.9% protein)

PROCESS – Pacific BreezeFinal DoughMixing Type of mixer Vertical planetary Mix style Short to improved 1st speed 3 - 5 mins Autolyse – 1st speed – 2nd speed 2 - 4 mins Dough temp 80°F

First fermentation Length of time 12 hours Notes Ferment at 38°F

Lamination Folds 3 single

Make up – Croissant Sheet 2.5 mm thick Divide As desired; cut tops and bottoms Shape 2.5 mm thick

Proof & Bake Final proof time 1 hour @ 78°F Oven type Convection Steam Yes Total bake 12 - 14 mins Temperature 375°F Finishing Brush with simple syrup

SHAPInG, PROOFInG, BAkInG AnD FInAL ASSEMBLy: Sheet croissant down to 2.5 mm and cut into desired shapes. Pipe on pastry cream and place a few pineapple pieces on top.

Place on another piece of dough to en- close filling. Egg wash and proof for about one hour at 78°F. Brush with egg wash again and place in 375 - 400°F oven until golden and brown on the bottom. Time will vary according to size of the pieces.

: Brush with simple syrup immediately out of the oven and decorate with more fruit or powdered sugar.

Tip: The pastry cream can be piped out into desired size and shape and topped with pineapple pieces. These pieces can then be frozen for easier handling while filling each croissant. ✹


Local Grain, Whole Grain Milling

TecHnical ARTICLE

California’s fascination with whole grain bread baking started with Tassajara, a zen retreat deep in the Ventana wilderness in northern California in the late 1960s. There (and in a small bakery on Cole Street in San Francisco’s Haight-Ashbury), Ed Epse Brown started a movement of whole grain baking, which reflected the zen Buddhist desire to eat simple, nutritious foods.

now, 50 years later, many bakers still have heated opinions, strong beliefs and various concerns that fuel the fire about whole grain breads and about flour milling in general.

“I never used to like whole wheat baking, and flour never interested me very much,” said Craig Ponsford, former Guild Chairman of the Board and artisan baker extraordinaire.

Michel Suas of San Francisco Baking Institute (SFBI) expressed what many of us feel when we see a poorly made healthy loaf: “Whole grain bread doesn’t have to be a brick. If the bread looks full of life, then the customer is already happy.”

Steve Sullivan of the Acme Bread Company in Berkeley said he believes in providing his customers with a wide range of whole grain products and “letting people decide for themselves.”

Sullivan says, “It’s great to put together the best things you can from 100% whole wheat, but I don’t think you have to assume that anything that isn’t all whole grain has dubious moral qualities.”

Even Kathleen Webber, who offers many whole grain products at Della Fattoria in Petaluma, California, admits: “There will always be a place for white flour.”

Regarding the health benefits of whole grain breads, many bakers note that customers frequently ask for nutritious loaves, but often opt out for the more enticing white loaves they offer. Suas says he is more concerned with pleasing customers: “I’m a baker, not a doctor.” And Sullivan candidly admits, “I don’t believe that every bite of food we eat has to represent a full meal.”

While all of these viewpoints have merit, a new movement in California is slowly beginning to convince many bakers and food producers that so-called whole-wheat flour milled by commercial mills might not be what we’ve always believed it to be.

In fact, because of the work and passion of Bob Klein, Joe Vanderliet and Craig Ponsford, many of us may never feel, think or talk about whole grain breads the same way again.

a local grain economyBob Klein, owner of Oliveto Restaurant in Oakland, California, wasn’t aware of what he was looking for when he started the Oliveto Grain Project in 2007.

He began by having meetings with prime movers in the artisan-baking, crop-growing and grain-milling communities – the likes of Steve Sullivan and Rick Kirkby from the Acme Bread company, Al Giusto from Giusto’s Vita-Grains, “some farmers, and a few restaurateurs.”

AND THE ARTISAN BAkERS To MAkE IT WoRk

By JOE ORTIz Guild Member and Co-Owner,

Gayle’s Bakery, Capitola, CA

Flour as milled by Certified Foods in Woodland, California

LEFT: Bob Klein, owner of Oliveto. RIGHT: 100% whole wheat pizza from Oliveto Restaurant topped with pancetta, and black trumpet mushrooms.

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TecHnical ARTICLE

Klein said, “If we got everybody in the room, we thought we could make stuff happen.” Now, three years later (after the Oliveto Wheat Project has morphed into a marketing and product development company called Community Grains), it looks as if he has succeeded.

Klein admits his first concept “was fairly naïve.” He thought of bringing wheat grown for pasta from Italy. But an agrono-mist from the University of California at Davis who attended the first meeting said, “Why do that? It won’t be the same.” After several tests and tastings, Klein and his group agreed. They found that – like a sourdough starter brought from another area and like wine grapes dependent on their own soil and atmosphere – wheat adapts to where it’s grown.

In fact, says Klein, “Wheat is terroir plus,” meaning that wheat is one of many plants highly influenced by its growing region.

Suddenly, Klein knew what he wanted: “A local wheat. A wheat that grows well here. A wheat the farmers like, the bakers like, the millers like, and the people who eat it feel is truly delicious.”

Klein is so dedicated to what he calls “a local grain economy” that today he uses whole-milled flour in many of his products at Oliveto.

But he had to meet two other men in order to help realize his dream: Joe Vanderliet, the miller, and Craig Ponsford, the baker.

“Whole-Milled” FlourIn his attempt to bring whole grain milling to California, former industrial miller Joe Vanderliet founded Certified Foods in Woodland, California, in 1992.

According to Vanderliet, “Modern milling in America is driven by automation and the corporate obsession of creating strong, predictable white flour, which can be used in the mass production of baked foods.” Vanderliet refers to it as

“endosperm milling,” an industrial process that “takes wheat, strips off the bran and germ (which represents up to 80% of the nutritional value of the finished flour), leaving the endosperm, mostly the starch.” The flour is then subjected to a

purification process, which removes the residual bran. Then it passes through a final roller process.

Later some of the bran is blended back in to the white milled flour. (But even that process, as Vanderliet points out and many observers agree, is suspect.)According to Vanderliet, this is how industrial flour is made in its most extreme process.

Certified Foods employs a method that was used prior to the introduction of roller mills – grinding the entire grain between stones.

The key advantage to a process wherein all of the elements of the grains are milled into flour and nothing is re-constituted, states Vanderliet, “is in its ability to stabilize the fats and rancidity of the flour.” Furthermore, it eliminates the need to enrich the flour by adding back vitamins. The great plus for the baker is in offering flour that is more alive and brimming with its natural nutrients and structure.

Needless to say, the health benefits are greater with whole milled flour, according to Vanderliet, because more antioxidants and nutritious elements are retained in whole grain milling than traditional milling. Antioxidants, the micronutrients that control disease in our bodies, are contained in the outer, aleurone layer of the grain. In regard to re-constituted wheat flour, Bob Klein says: “If you process a wheat grain in a roller process, you kiss the aleurone layer goodbye.”And with it go the nutrients in the germ and the bran.

craig Ponsford as consultant, recipe tester, advocateHow can you change the mind of a baker who admits he never cared much for whole-wheat products in the first place?

“One of the main flavor ingredients for chefs is fat,” says Ponsford. “So to have it removed is the reason I never enjoyed whole wheat. Now, being exposed to

flour with the germ in it makes me realize why commercial milled whole-wheat flour tastes dead.”

When Ponsford first tried whole-milled flour, it gave him the ability to build a high-hydration bread dough, providing him with the texture, volume, and flavor he’d never before imagined from whole-wheat baked goods.

A complete convert to whole-milled, whole-wheat flour, Ponsford uses no white flour in his new micro-bakery in San Rafael, California (set to open its doors in March).

Ponsford’s ciabatta integrale and challah are testaments to his dedication to making wheat breads with exciting, open textures and depth of wheat flavor. In Oliveto’s case, the nutty taste and toothsome quality of the finished products are the reasons why Bob Klein is willing to put his reputation on the line by offering whole grain pizza dough and whole grain durum pasta.

But vibrant flavors aren’t the only benefits to whole milled flour.

“Alan Scott used to tell me that the greatest nutritional value of whole milled flour is immediately after the flour is milled,” Ponsford said. “So I asked millers, ‘Why shouldn’t I mill my own flour?’ and it all comes down to particulate size.” Most bakers wouldn’t be able to get the granulation out of whole-wheat milling that Certified Foods can achieve.

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Craig Ponsford holds a baked sign for Community Grains at his bakery, Ponsford’s Place, in San Rafael, CA.



TecHnical ARTICLE

Indeed, many bakers who have tried the flour agree that finer granulation can help them attain a higher hydration, a more active fermentation, and thus a greater volume in the finished loaf.

artisan Movement can help lead the WayWhen it comes to whole grain breads, consumers truly want to eat nutritiously. Whether they eat artisan – or mass-produced breads – most consumers are aware that bread made with whole grain flour creates a more healthy loaf. But many educated consumers also understand that factory-produced breads often contain additional enriching ingredients, like fructose, molasses or corn syrup. And these breads are often fortified with white flour.

Artisan bread bakers are important to the movement set in motion by Klein, Vanderliet and Ponsford. Because most artisan bakers attempt to use a minimum of enriching ingredients, they tend to use more whole wheat flour than the traditional 30% whole wheat to 70% white flour ratio.

Furthermore, because their baking is based on small, handcrafted production, and because artisan bakers (especially in California) are close to the fields and mills, they create the connection to complete the locavore cycle.

But there’s another key factor that makes artisan bakers a key to this new movement.

Thanks to such groups as The Guild and SFBI, most artisan bakers have been steeped in the techniques that can help them make a more flavorful and appealing bread through delicate kneading, a long, slow fermentation, some type of preferment and a large percentage of water in the dough.

As Ponsford and others have shown us, all of these finessing techniques apply even more so to baking with whole milled flour.

If Bob Klein’s dream comes true, this new collision of locally grown and milled grains, and the artisan bakers who know how to use them, will bring us not only better nutrition but also a rich and flavorful batch of whole grain loaves. ✹

As we open bag after bag of ready-to-use flour each day, we seldom pause to remember that, just like an egg, the wheat berries ground to make it are self-contained units containing everything necessary for them to grow into plants, which in turn produce many more berries. White flour, which consists of the starchy endosperm at the center of the grain, is in fact a reserve of food for the germ, whose other name, embryo, makes its own crucial role clear. Growth could not take place, however, without the aleurone, which provides the nutrients necessary to the process.

The aleurone layer is sandwiched between the endosperm and the bran. In it, enzymes are produced which transform the endosperm’s starches into sugars to fuel growth (this is what takes place when beer is brewed, and in bread doughs where these same enzymes transform starches damaged in the milling process into sugars to feed the yeast and aid in crust caramelization) and storage proteins provide other essential nutrients. The aleurone layer contains vitamins B6 and E, potassium, magnesium, calcium, iron, and zinc as well as antioxidants, a powerhouse of nutrition housed in a tiny portion of the grain.

I didn’t understand many bakers’ interest in stone ground flours until I learned that in roller milling, it’s impossible to separate the aleurone layer from the bran, so that in most flours, both are sifted out. They remain present in stone ground flours, and so does the germ, and when stone grinding

Local Grain, Whole Grain MillingContinued from previous page

is skillfully done, the abrasion involved crushes the bran and the aleurone into finer particles. This leads to smoother dough textures and, arguably, easier digestion.

Many bakers in France, including Appolonia Poilâne and her uncle, Max Poilâne, use stone ground flours with the coarsest bran sifted out (extraction rate 85% to 90%). This compromise, seldom seen in the United States, leads to an even finer texture and less branny bitterness, yet retains most of the aleurone layer and germ. It should be stressed that one cannot achieve the same results by adding whole wheat flour or flakes of bran to less extracted flours.

Flours containing the germ should be used while their nutritional value is at its maximum and before the wheat germ oil becomes rancid. Their use can conceivably involve two disadvantages. The aleurone layer contains phytic acid, which can block the absorption of calcium in the body, leading to the unlikely possibility of rickets, and the higher percentages of damaged starches in stone ground flours can cause problems in dough texture. Both are easily avoided through the use of sourdough and other long-fermented formulas.

In recent times, Bühler, the Swiss milling equipment manufacturer, has developed a method of extracting the aleurone layer from the bran, thus permitting ingredients manufacturers to sell it separately for addition to a variety of foods. But as artisan bakers know so well, there will always be a place for intelligent use of traditional methods.

THE ALEUROnE LAyER By JAMES MACGUIRE Baker, Montreal, QC


TecHnical ARTICLE

LEVAIn: Adjust the water temperature for a final

dough temperature of 70°F. : Mix by hand or in a mixer until just

combined. : Store at 75°F for 12 hours or 4 hours at 75°F followed by 10-15 hours at 42°F.

FInAL DOUGH : Adjust the water temperature for a final

dough temperature of 75°F. : Place all of the ingredients except the

salt and levain in the bowl and mix on first speed for 5 minutes.

: Allow the mixture to sit for 20 minutes for an autolyse.

: Mix in first speed for 3 minutes. : Mix on second for 3 minutes.

BULk FERMEnTATIOn: Bulk ferment for 3 hours. Fold the dough

5 times at 30 minute intervals.: The dough will be soft and wet and is best suited for proofing in floured baskets.

SHAPInG: Scale the dough at 2 kgs.

Pre-shape in loose rounds. After twenty minutes shape in tight boules and place seam up in the baskets.

: Proof for 3-4 hours at 75°F.

BAkInG : Bake at 400°F with steam for 45-55 minutes. ✹

InTEGRAL BREAD

Total FlourTotal Dough Weight (TDW) 5.000 kg Prefermented 30.00%

TOTAL FOrMULA LevAiN FiNAL DOUghingredients % kilograms % kilograms ingredients kilograms

Total Flour 100.00% 2.584 kg 100.00% 0.775 kg Total Flour 1.809 kg

White Whole Wheat Flour, fine 44.40% 1.147 kg 100.00% 0.775 kg White Whole Wheat Flour, fine 0.372 kg

Whole Wheat Flour, fine 44.40% 1.147 kg Whole Wheat Flour, fine 1.147 kg

Whole Rye Flour, fine 6.70% 0.173 kg Whole Rye Flour, fine 0.173 kg

Pumpernickel Flour 4.50% 0.116 kg 0.10% 0.001 kg Pumpernickel Flour 0.116 kg

Water 80.00% 2.067 kg 65.00% 0.504 kg Water 1.563 kg

Salt 2.00% 0.052 kg Salt 0.052 kg

Milk 5.00% 0.129 kg Milk 0.129 kg

Olive Oil 5.00% 0.129 kg Olive Oil 0.129 kg

Sour Seed 1.50% 0.039 kg 5.00% 0.039 kg

Levain 1.318 kg

Totals 193.50% 5.000 kg 170.00% 1.318 kg 5.000 kg

“Pane integrale” as baked at Della Fattoria bakery in Petaluma, using Certified Food’s whole wheat flour.

PROCESS – Integral BreadFinal DoughMixing Type of mixer Spiral Mix style Short 1st speed 5 mins Autolyse 20 mins 1st speed 1 min

2nd speed 3 mins Dough temp 75°F

First fermentation Length of time 3 hours Number of folds 5 Timing for folds 30 min intervals

Shaping Divide 2 kg Preshape Light round resting time 15 - 20 mins

Shape Round Proofing device Basket

Proof & Bake Final proof time 3 - 4 hours @ 75°F Oven type Deck Steam Yes Total bake 45 - 55 mins Temperature 400°FNote Vent when bread begins to take on color

For More Information: Even though access to Certified Foods flour is limited at this time, there are ways to find it and find out more about local grains and whole milled flour.

: Soon Certified Foods flour will be available in five-pound bags at the Community Grains Website: www.communitygrains.com

: For large bakeries or food producers who want to order a truckload, contact Joe Vanderliet at www.certifiedfoods.com

: Ponsford’s Place, a new “pop up” bakery (official opening sometime in March, 2011) at 117 Shaver St. San Rafael, Ca. 94901 will notify those in their neighborhood when they are open when they see the “Breadman” standing outside the shop. Or you can find out about hours and offerings at PONSFORD’S PLACE, on line at www.ponsfordsplace.com

: Oliveto Restaurant and Café, 5655 College Avenue, Oakland, Ca, 94618: Offers whole-milled whole-wheat pizza from their wood burning oven and whole wheat durum pasta daily.

: Info about the Oliveto grain project: http://www.oliveto.com/ourcommunity/farmers/the-oliveto-wheat-project.

Integral BreadBy CRAIG POnSFORD Guild Member and Owner,

Ponsford’s Place, San Rafael, CA PH

OTO

: JO

e O

rT

iz

FROM the ARChIVes The Guild Newsletter

the Bread Bakers gUild oF aMerica

newsletter co-editors tod Bramble Laverne Mau Dickernewsletter designer Kirsten Finstadcontributors Martin Barnett Volker Baumann eric Baumgartner tod Bramble David DeCesare Laverne Mau Dicker Michael eggebrecht Phyllis enloe Abram Faber Jeremey Gadouas Melina Kelson-Podolsky Philippe Le Corre Leslie Mackie James MacGuire Richard Miscovich Joe Ortiz harry Peemoeller Craig Ponsford Dara Reimers Michael Rhoads solveig tofte John tredgold Jeff Yankellowchair of the Board solveig toftevice chairman Jeff Yankellowtreasurer neale Creamer

Board of directors tod Bramble Andy Clark Phyllis enloe Abram Faber Melina Kelson-Podolsky Richard Miscovich office Manager Cathy Wayne

FIRST CLASS

PRESORT

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PAiDPORTLAND, OR

PERMIT No. 141

670 West Napa St Suite B

Sonoma, CA 95476

the material printed in Bread Lines may not be reproduced or copied without written permission from the Bread Bakers guild of america.

tel 707.935.1468 • Fax 707.935.1672 • email [email protected] • Web www.bbga.org

The struggle of the traditional baker does not have to be

a David vs. Goliath story. There’s room for everyone. The

problem is: the baking industry needs to more clearly identify

and discuss the real distinctions between all the players and

their legitimate roles. Only then can there be mutual respect

among the different segments of the business, and broad

support for the renaissance of true artisans.

– Tom McMahon

Founder and Former

Executive Director of The Guild

Volume 5 – Issue 4 fall 1997

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