Volume 30 October 2014 - The Himalayan Club · Gadgil, Atin Sathe, Pemba Norboo, Phurba, Pasang and I were on the summit by .20 a.m. We were rewarded by grand views on all sides

THEHIMALAYANCLUBlE-LETTER

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Volume 30 l October 2014

CONTENTS

Climbs and Explorations

ClimbsandExplorationinRassaGlacier................................................. 2 NandaDeviEast(7434m)Expedition20�4.............................................. 7 FirstAscentofP6070(L�5)....................................................................... 9 AvalancheonShishaPangma.................................................................. 9 FirstAscentofGashebrumV(7�47m).....................................................�0 FirstAscentofPayuPeak(6600m)SouthPillar......................................�2 RussiansClimbUnclimbed�900mFaceofThamserku.........................�3

The Himalayan Club - Pune Section

Thestoryoftheclub’syoungestandavibrantsection...........................�4

The Himalayan Club – Kolkata Section

CommemorationofBirthCentenaryofTenzingNorgay.........................�8

The Himalayan Club – Mumbai Section

JourneythroughmyLense- PhotoExhibitionbyMr.DeepakBhimani................................................�9

News & Views

TheHimalayanClubHon.LocalSecretaryinKathmandu Ms.ElizabethHawleyhasapeaknamedafterher.................................�9 ClimbingFeesReducedinIndia............................................................. 22 �04NewPeaksopenforMountaineeringinNepal................................ 23 OnlineShowonYeti................................................................................ 23 ForthcomingEvents................................................................................ 23 JagdishCNanavatiAwards.................................................................... 23 HimalayanJournal-Volume69.............................................................. 24

Obituaries

JohnTyson.............................................................................................. 25

Office bearers of the Himalayan Club for the year 2014 ................................................ 27

SummitridgeofRassaKangri(6250m)


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Climbs and ExplorationsClimbs and Exploration in Rassa Glacier

From Rassa to Sumur…..a journey of exploration and climbing.

In 200�, a glimpse of Rassa glacier, during our expedition to Arganglas valleyindicatedagreatopportunityforexplorationandclimbing.InJuly/August20�4,thisturnedtorealityasourteamfromTheHimalayanClubconsistingofRajeshGadgil,AtinSathe,VineetaMuniandmyselfventuredintothisremoteglacier.

Due to security restrictions and their remote location, majority of the mountains,valleysandglaciersoftheEasternKarakoramRangeareuntouchedbymountaineers.Rassaglacier is locatedoffNubravalley,northeastofthefamousKhardunglaandsoutheastofSiachenglacier.Exceptforasinglevisittothesnoutin200�,theglacierhad not seen any mountaineering or trekking activity. None of the peaks on theglacierwereevenattemptedbefore.

Our team left Mumbai on �5 July 20�4 and flew into Leh, accompanied by anenthusiasticgroupoftrekkersconsistingofRatneshJaveri,RajendraWani,Dr.KamalLimdi,Dr.NandiniLimdi,Dr.KalpeshJainandDr.SonalJain.AfteracclamatisinginLehforafewdaystheteamdroveoverWarila(5290m)intoNubravalley.

Theteamtrekkedover theruggedterrainofArganglasvalley for threedaysbeforereaching near the proposed basecamp site, only to be stopped by a raging riveroriginatingfromPhunangmaglacier.Allattemptstofindasafecrossingpointnearbyprovedfutilesotheteamwasforcedtocamponthesouthernbanksoftheriverforthenight.TheyhadtotrektothesnoutofPhunangmaglacierandcrosstotheothersideoveritsicysurfaceinordertoestablishbasecampon28Julyat4820m.Lateraropewassecuredacrosstherivertotransferloadsandtheclimbersfortherestoftheexpedition.Threepreciousdayswerelostintheprocess.

The next few days werespent in reconnaissance oftheareaandtofindaroutetotheadvancedbasecamponRassa glacier. On 2 August20�4,thetrekkersmadetheirwaybackwhilsttheclimbersshifted to ABC (5220m) tostartclimbinginearnest.

Rassa glacier consists ofmany subsidiaries. Theteam entered the branchwhich was named ’GlacierI’ and established Camp �


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(5780m). The panorama ofpeaks had opened out. Wedecided to climb P. 62�9mfirst as it would provide anopportunitytoviewtheroutesforall theadjoiningpeaksofthe glacier. On 8 Augustanan attempt was made.Unfortunately,bythetimewehad fixed the first �50m ofrope, the weather closed in.We decided to attempt it inbetterweatherconditions.

Accordingly, we returned tothe peak on �2 August andcompleted remaining �50m of the climb. After fixing almost 300m of rope, RajeshGadgil,AtinSathe,PembaNorboo,Phurba,PasangandIwereonthesummitby��.20a.m.Wewererewardedbygrandviewsonallsides.Thisalsogaveusanopportunitytostudy thepeaksaround forpossible routesofascent.Wehadacompleteviewof ‘Glacier II’ of Rassa which served as an excellent reference for further plans.The peak was named ‘Tusuhm Kangri’ meaning ‘triangular peak in the corner’ inLadakhilanguage.

HavingspentconsiderabletimeinGlacierI,wenowdecidedtoshiftourattentiontothepeaksinGlacierIIandIII.BacktoABC,wenowlocatedawaytotheentranceofGlacierIIandIII.Theroutetookusthroughamazeofbouldersandrocksbetweenthesnoutof thenorthernpartofRassaglacier and thepeakat thenorthwesterncornerofGlacierI.Therewasariskofrockfall,butfortunately,nonetookplace.

Two days of bad weatherkept us in our tents atABC. The boulder field wehad to cross had becometreacherous due to theaccumulationoffreshsnowand we had to wait for itto melt before we shiftedcamp.

On �8 August, we wereat our new camp, namedCamp 2 (5635m) locatednear the northwest cornerofGlacier II.Aquick recceenabledustoestablishour

ClimbersseenonTusuhmKangri(62�9m)

Peak6367monGlacierI


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next camp on Glacier III. In the limitedtimeleftwithus,thiswouldgiveusbetterclimbingopportunitiesthanGlacierII.

We shifted to this high camp, namedCamp3 (58�0m)on20August, locatedatthebaseofP.6250manddecidedtomake an attempt. This peak is one ofthemostprominentintheareaandwasconstantly visible from the timewehadenteredRassaglacier.

On 2� August, we were to start ourclimb by 5.00 a.m. but that morningthe notorious Karakoram wind startedlashingatus. It chilledus to thebonesmakingitdifficulttogetoutofthetents.We sat shivering, hoping there wouldbe some let up. Finally we moved outby 7.00 a.m. We had to negotiate a200micewalltothenorthtoaccessthesummitridge.Theridgeturnedouttobeknifeedgedwithsomesectionsheavilycorniced. Since we ran out of rope, wehadtopullupthelowesttworopesfromtheicewalltoenableustosafeguardthefinalstretchoftheridgeleadingtowardswesttothesummit.

PeaksontheRassaGlacier.RassaKangri(6250m)seeninthecenter

PeakAbale(6360m)

Descending from the East Rassa La (6000m) intotheSumurLungpa


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Rajesh, Atin, Vineeta and I along withourthreeSherpas,Pasang,PhurbaandPembawereatthetopby2.30p.m.withexcellentviewsonallsides.Consideringtheprominenceofthepeakintheglacier,wedecidedtonameit‘RassaKangri’.

We now had only two days left beforewinding up camps, so on the followingday,wewent fora recce to theheadofGlacier III to look at the high peaks attheheadof theglacier.A fewhoursonthe glacier brought us to Shukpa pass(6��0m) that leads to South ShukpaKunchang glacier and further to ShyokRiver on the other side. The pass wasfairly gentle and could be a possiblealternative to Saser la linking Shyokvalley with Nubra valley. The peaksaround the pass looked promising andchallenging. Unfortunately we had runout of time and resources to attemptanymorepeaks.Theweatherwasalsopackingup,sowequicklymadeourwaybacktocamp.WewounditupandwithheavyloadsretreatedtoCamp2.

Our thoughtswerenowonexploringanalternative routeback toNubravalley.WehadbeeneyeingahighcolthatwouldleadustoSumurnalainthenorth.Withjustthree days in hand, wedecided to give it a go.We packed rations forthreedaysandwithbareminimum equipmentstarted off across theglacier on 24 August. AgentleslopeledtoWestRassa la. We hoped anequally gentle slopewould lead us to theothersidebutourhopeswere dashed as westood at the col (5930m). A sheer icy dropof more than 200 m

ClimbersonSummitofP62�9m(TushumKangri)

OnthesummitofRassaKangri(6250m)

Team on East Rassa La (6000m) before crossingintotheSumurNalla


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greetedus.Wecouldnotcrossitwiththegearwewerecarryingonourbackswithinthetimeavailable!

AftermuchthoughtwedecidedtotrythecrossingintotheinvitingSumurnalaoncemore….thistimefromEastRassala.Thatnight,wecampedatourCamp4,locatedatthejunctionofbothroutesatthebaseofP.6�89m.On25August,wemadeanearlystartandreachedEastRassala(6000m)by��.00a.m.Aclosescrutinyofthedropontheothersiderevealedapossiblerouteacross.Wehadtonegotiate75mofverysteepiceandsnowslopetoreachthesafetyoftheglacierontheotherside.Ittookusconsiderabletimeduetothehardicecoveredbyanunevenlayerofsoftfreshsnow,andthestepswemadekeptcollapsingbelowourfeet.

As we started our way down the glacier, we were caught in strong winds andsnowfall. In low visibility we made our way down unknown territory. It was nearlysunsetbythetimewereachedoneofthemostbeautifulcampingspotsonthebanksofSumurLake, thoroughlyexhaustedbutsatisfiedwith theadventuresof theday.On26August,wetrekkeddownSumurnala,facingatwo-hoursnowstormandthenendlessupsanddownsandtwistsandturnsover the�8kmroute toNubravalleyconcludingourexpeditionatthegatesofSamsthalingmonastery.

Summary

Peaks Climbed: (Both were first ascents)

�) Peak62�9m(TusuhmKangri)on�2August20�4byRajeshGadgil,AtinSathe, PembaNorboo,PasangSherpa,PhurbaSherpaandDivyeshMuni.

2) Peak 6250m (Rassa Kangri) on 2� August by Rajesh Gadgil, Atin Sathe, Vineeta Muni, Pemba Norboo, Pasang Sherpa, Phurba Sherpa and DivyeshMuni.

Passes Visited / Crossed:

�) Shukpapass(6��0m)visitedon22AugustbyRajeshGadgil,PasangSherpa, PhurbaSherpaandDivyeshMuni.

2) West Rassa la (5930m) visited on 24 August by Rajesh Gadgil, Atin Sathe, VineetaMuni,PasangSherpaandDivyeshMuni.

3) EastRassala(6000m)crossedintoSumurnalaon25AugustbyRajeshGadgil, AtinSathe,VineetaMuni,PasangSherpaandDivyeshMuni.

DivyeshMuni-Leader


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Nanda Devi East (7434m) Expedition 2014

�2thAscentofNandaDeviEastwasdoneinasemi-alpinestylebyasmallteamleadbyAnindyaMukharjee.Thisyearmarkedthe75thanniversaryofthefirstAscentofNandaDeviEast.ThisisafittingtributetothefirstascentofNandaDeviEastbyaPolishexpeditionin�939.AshortreportbyAnindyaMukharjee.

Background

InMay20�3,IhadattemptedtoclimbNandaDeviEastwithagroupoffellowIndianclimbers.4daysofnon-stopsnowfallresultedinlimitedclimbingdaysandthatinturncausedshortageoffoodandfuel.Inspiteoftheselimitingfactors,wehadmadegoodprogressonthemountainandevencouldmanageonesummitattemptfromacampataround6600m.Butduringthesummitattempt,extremelyhighwindabove6900mandpoorgearconditionsoftheteamaddedtotheagony.Idecidedtoturnbackfrombelow the summit pyramid putting safety of the team first. This failure inspired mydesiretocomebacktoNandaDeviEastandthe20�4expeditionwasborn.

Approach

TheteamleftDelhionJune�0andreachedMunsiaryonJune��.On�3June,theteam started for the Base Camp. Twelve low altitude porters from Munsiyari werehired to carry foodandgearup toBC.After spending5nightsenroute, theBaseCampatBidalgwar(4250m)wasestablishedon�7June.

DescendingfromSummitRidge


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Route

The Nanda Devi Khal (Longstaff’s Col) - South ridge route of Nanda Devi East inKumaun Himalaya was climbed from the Lawan valley. Nanda Devi Khal was firstclimbedbyDr.T.G.Longstaff(alongwithtwoSwissguides)in�905andtheSouthridge route was first climbed by the Polish team in �939. Interestingly, there hasbeennootherrouteestablishedonthismountainsincethen.Thus,thePolishrouteremainsclassicanduniqueonNandaDeviEasttothisdate.OnlytheapproachhasbeenrestrictedtoLawansideduetotheclosureoftheNandaDevisanctuarysincetheearlyeighties.

The team ferried load fora fewdays to the footofLongstaff’scolandestablishedanAdvancedBaseCamp(4750m).AboveABC,anothercamp(IntermediateCamp5000m)wasestablishedonarocksteponthelowerslopesoftheLongstaff’sCol.This IntermediateCamp(5000m)wasestablishedtoshortenthe��00mplusclimbfromABCtoNandaDeviKhal.Thisapproachedprovedtobeveryhelpful.FromtheIntermediateCamp (5000m),Longstaff’sCol (59�0m)wasclimbed inonly5hoursandCampIestablished.

Beyond Longstaff’s Col, 3 more camps were established respectively in altitudes6�00m (Camp II), 6400m (Camp III) and 6800m (Camp IV). Four camps wereestablishedonthesouthridge.

Climbing Conditions

Compared to20�3climb, theentiresouth ridgealmostdevoidof snow thisyear.TheteamwasstuckinCampIII(6400m)for2extranightsduetobadweather.Alotnewpowdersnowhadfallenonthesummit,makingthesummitdayaslowandstrugglingaffair.

Style of Climb

Being a small teamandaverylowbudgetexpedition, a limitedamount of static ropeto fix.Ropewas fixeden route Longstaff’sCol from IntermediateCamp and on thePinnacles. Above andbeyondthepinnacles,old ropewas re-fixed.Loads were ferrieduptoCampII.Restoftheridgewasclimbedin ‘carry, camp andclimb’style. ViewofTwinSummitsfromtheSummitCamp


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Team

George Rodway (USA),Thendup Sherpa (India),Anindya Mukherjee (India),Temba Sherpa (High altitudesupporter), Dup Tsering (Highaltitude supporter), LhakpaSherpa (Base Camp Cook)andHimanshuPandey(LiaisonOfficer)

SummaryIn June-July, 20�4, a small,lightweight and semi-alpinestyle expedition succeeded

in climbing Nanda Devi East (7434m) in the Kumaun Himalaya, India. On 3 July,20�4,summitwasreachedby4membersof theteam.Thisyear(20�4) is the75thanniversaryofthefirstascentofthismountainbyaPolishteamconsistingofalpinistsJanusz Klarner, Jakub Bujak, Adam Karpinski, Sherpa Dawa Tsering, Dr. JR Foy(British), liaisonofficerMajorS.BlakeandStefanBernadzikiewicz.The�939Polishteamhadreachedsummiton2July.

Summiteers

Thendup Sherpa, Anindya Mukherjee, Temba Sherpa and Dup Tsering on 3 July,20�4.

First Ascent of P6070 (L15)

The students of Gakushuin University Alpine Club (GAC) made the first ascentto P6070 (L�5) in Lenak Nala of Zanskar on August 22, 20�4 and came backsafelytoJapanonSeptember�4,20�4.

In 20��, Lenak Nala and Giabul Nala were explored and the unknownvirginpeaksinthisareawereintroducedinTheHimalayanJournalVol.67,20��.KyotoUniversityAplineClub,senttheexpeditionteamtochallangeP6070(L�5)20�2.ButtheygaveuptoclimbP6070(L�5)becauseofthedangeroussnowconditionandmadethefirstascenttoP6080(L�3)ontheothersideofLenakNala.

Look for the full report in HJ Vol. 70

Avalanche on Shisha Pangma

On September 24, 20�4 an avalanche on Shisha Pangma (8027m), Tibet, claimedthe lives of Italian alpinist Andrea Zambaldi and German alpinist Sebastian Haag.MartinMaier,thethirdalpinistcaughtbytheavalanchethattriggeredshortlybelowthesummit,managedtosurvive.

OnsummitofNandaDeviEast


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The message sent by Benedikt Böhm from Base Camp:

"In the afterernoonof23.09.20�4at�6:30,BenediktBoehm(37)andUeliSteck (38)startedfromBasecamp(5.600m)thespeedascentonShishaPangma80�3m.Theplanwastoreachthesummitinthemorningofthe24.09.20�4,togetherwiththeteammates Sebastian Haag (36), who was starting from Camp � (6.300m) and AndreaZambaldi(32)whostartedfromCamp2(6.800m).

BenediktandUelimetBastiHaagatC� (6.300m)asplannedat20:00andpairedup.AtthesametimeAndreaZambaldileftfromC2(6.800m)towardsthesummit.AllclimberspairedupbelowC3,atapprox.7.�00mat0�:00on24.09.20�4,reachingC3(7.300m)atexactly02:00.

BeingthefirstclimbersaboveC2,theteamhadtocontinuouslybreaktrailthroughrough conditions. At 06:50 the team was only one hundred vertical meters belowthesummit.Thespiritandmotivationwashigh,astheteamwasverywellworkingtogether and moving at the same speed. They were sure reaching the summit at08:00.

At 06:55 (Nepalese time) Sebastian and Andrea were caught in an avalanche at7.900m,just�00mbelowthesummitandweredraggedfor600mvertical,oversteepglaciers,intoanothersectionofthemountain.

Benedikt and Ueli immediately called basecamp for help and assistance, whiledescendingtoC3,thesameroutetheywerecomingup, inordertotraversetotheavalanche zone and search for the other three climbers. For over four hours theyweretryingtoapproachtheavalanchezonefromvarioussides,but turnedaroundduetothefactthattherewasnoaccesstotheavalanchezone.SebastianandAndreadisappearedwiththeavalancheandtheirbodiescouldnotbefound.”

AndreaZambaldiandSebastianHaagweremuchlovedandworkedfortheSalewagroup.

First Ascent of Gashebrum V (7147m)

OnJuly25,afterclimbinginalpinestyleforthreedays,KoreansNak-jongSeongandChi-youngAhnbecamethefirsttostandatopGasherbrumV,thethirdhighestpeakintheGasherbrummassifat7�47meters.TheirhistoricfeatticksoffoneofthelastremainingunclimbedpeaksintheremoteGasherbrumrangeinexcellentstyle.

InAugustof�978a�2-manJapaneseteamattemptedGasherbrumV’ssummitthreetimes, with team members K. Mukaide, M. Sakaguchi, and T. Sato reaching theexpedition’shighpointatoponeofGasherbrumV’ssub-summits,EastIII(7006m).The day before, expedition leader Ryuichi Babaguchi had fallen to his death ina crevasse just below the East III summit. Two years later, a French team madeanunsuccessfulattempt,approachingfromtheSouthGasherbrumGlacier.Then,in July20�0, aKorean teamcomprisedofKimHyung-il, Im Il-jin, JangJi-myung


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andLeeSang-woosettheirsights on the unattemptedwest face. Deep snow,ice-layered faces, rockfall and, finally, a brokenstove turned the teamback from 6550 metersafterthreedays.Twoyearslater, Aymeric Clouet,Christian Trommsdorffand Patrick Wagnon madean attempt on the southridge of GasherbrumV’s main summit afterbailing on their originalobjec t ive — GasherbrumIV’s Shining Wall. Withunstable conditions andimpending bad weather,the three turned around at6700 meters. During theirdescent, the team was hitby an avalanche, whichinjured Wagnon’s ankle.He was carried from basecampbymule.

Thissummer, theKoreanexpeditionsarrivedat thebaseofGasherbrumV,Seongand Ahn intending to climb the northeast face. They reached 6400 meters beforedescending in bad weather and avalanche conditions. Exhausted but determined,theduosettheirsightsonGasherbrumV’ssouthside,arrivingatanewbasecamponJuly20,SeongandAhnhadalmostnotimeforrecovery.Yetthegamblepaidoff,andSeongandAhntriumphed.

Theypickedtheirwaythroughthe fracturedglacier for threekilometresonJuly23toreachthefootofthesoutheastwall.There,theyropedup,reaching6600metersaroundmidnightfollowinganafternoonclimbinginheavyavalancheconditions.Over20hours,theyhadclimbednearly�900meters.

Theteamspentthefollowingdayregrouping,exhaustedfromtheirefforts.Theyate,reenergizedanddiscussedstrategies.Then,at3a.m.onJuly25,theysetforthfromtheir bivy, climbing mixed terrain frequented by rock fall. They gained the summitridgebytheafternoon,andstoodonthesummitat7:20p.m.Onlyafterapunishing,24-hourdescentthroughthedarknessofnightanddaytimeavalanchesdidthewearyclimbersresteasyinbasecamp.

Adapted from the Alpinist

Nak-jong Seong, Chi-young Ahn and Hyoung-woo Choi belowGasherbrumV’sloomingmass.


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First Ascent of Payu Peak (6600m) South Pillar

On July 26, Alberto Inurrategi,Juan Vallejo and Mikel Zabalamade the first recorded ascentof 6600-meter Payu Peak’s southpillar.Thetriospent�0daysonthemountainfrombasecamptobasecamp. Zabala, calling via satellitephone from the top of the tower,said the climb was the “hardestrouteI’vedoneinmylife.”

Inurrategi later wrote in a pressrelease, “We climbed to the verylimit, the limitofourstrength.Wehave not rested almost nothingduring the entire expedition and

wehavecometobasecampto the lastbreath.”Theyencountereddifficultiesup to5.�0d,A3andM5duringtheirascent.

Payu Peak, known for its vertical rock and steep ice, sits below Baltoro Glacier’stongueandwasfirstclimbedin�976.Heavyamountsofrock-andicefalladdedtothedangeroftheirascentthismonth,theSpaniardssaid.ThegroupdidnotcontinueontothemainsummitofPayu,statingclimbingtheterrainfromthetopofthesouthtowertothesummitwouldbe“suicide.”

During the ascent, Vallejo sustained a significant injury to his left shoulder when a“mediummicrowave”-sizedblockofgranitefellonhimclosetothesummit.Althoughthe team thought theinjurymighthindertheirprogress, Zabala saidVallejo is “like granite”himself,andwithsomepainkillers and anti-inflammatories, theycontinued.

“The truth is that theclimbing cost us a lotineveryway,physicallyand psychologically,”Inurrategiwrote.

Adapted from The Alpinist

(www.alpinist.com)Theteamrappelsfromthesouthtower.

PayuPeak(akaPaijuPeak),Karakoram.


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Russians Climb Unclimbed 1900m Face of Thamserku

AsRussiansAlexanderGukovandAlex Lonchinsky left a Nepalesehikingpath frequentedby touristson May 3. They climbed for eightdaysto thesummitof6623-meterThamserkuandbackdownagain.Their �900-meter route marks thefirstascentofthepeak’ssouthwestface.

Thamserku, in the easternHimalaya,hasonlyseenahandfulofsummitssinceits�964firstascent,and its prominent southwest faceremainedanunclimbed,intriguingline for many years. In �980 anine-manJapaneseteamreached

6300metersonthefacebeforeescapingontothewesternridgeandleadingtothesummitfromthere.Sixyearslater,aSpanishfoursomereachedthesamehighpoint,buta leak in theirgas lines leachedallof their remaining fuel,andwithnoway tomeltsnowforwaterthegroupretreated.ClimberJoseManuelGonzaleslamentedintheHimalayanJournal,“Sonearthesummitandyetsofar...”

Some28yearsaftertheSpaniards’failedeffort,GukovandLonchinskysetoutupthefaceonApril27.Theycarriedasmalltent,sanspoles.Afterthievesabscondedwiththeirguylinespriortodeparture,underminingthestructureofthetent,theyplannedtouseitlikeakindofhammockwhentheslopedidnotallowfortheconstructionofabivyledge.TheRussiansmadeatotalofsixbivysduringtheirclimb.Theyascendedonaslopeofanaverage70degrees,encounteringsnow,iceandmixedterrain.Theygradedtheirclimb,ShyGirl,ahardRussian6A(NCCSVI).

Writing to mountain.ru after their climb, Lonchinsky stated, “On the day when weplanned to reach the summit, theweather got worse at 9:00 a.m.,and it reached its climax whenI got to the crest, three pitchesfrom the top.” But, rising the nextmorning at 3 a.m., they reachedthe summit in three and halfhours.“Thoughitwaswindy,therewas sun and excellent visibility,”Lonchinsky wrote. The duo madeasafedescent.

Adapted from the Alpinist

Thamserku (6623m), eastern Himalaya, showing Shy Girl(6B, 70 degrees). Russians Alexander Gukov and AlexLonchinsky authored the line in eight days, climbing inalpinestyle.[Photo]courtesyAnnaPiunova/mountain.ru

ThamserkuMassif


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The Himalayan Club - Pune Section

The story of the club’s youngest and a vibrant section.

If I were to pin one person for the development of Pune section, it would be Dr.RagunathGodbole.Aquiet,softspokendoctorfromPunehasmadethePunesectiona vibrantandan involvedsectionof theclub. I cajoledhim togiveusan informalaccountofwhathehasachievedin8yearsofPunesection’sexistence.HepromptlyagreedandgaveapersonalaccountofthePuneSection.Dr.GodbolehasinfusedagreatdegreeofenthusiasmforMountainsintheindustrialcityofPune.TheaccesstolocalhillsofSahydrishelphimseedtheinterestofmountainsinthePunecommunity.ThistranslatedintovisitstohigherreachesoftheHimalaya.HereisthestoryofthePuneSection.Afrugalbeginning,amembercentricoutlookandaprudentapproachhasmadethemself-sufficientandavibrantsectionoftheHimalayanClubtoday.

Journey over first 8 years from 2006 to 2014

By Hon. Local Secretary Dr. Raghunath Godbole

Ihavebeen trekking inSahyadrisincechildhoodanddonemore than200 treks. Ihavealsodonemorethan20HighaltitudetreksandexpeditionsinHimalayasince�995–mostofthemorganizedbymyself.Iwasthefounder,thenSecretaryandfinallyChairman of Indian Medical Association, Pune Trekking Club from 2002 to 20�4. Iwasnotamemberofanyotherclubororganization inPuneduring thisperiod. InApril2004IbecamememberofTheHimalayanClub,Mumbai.

IwasappointedasHon. LocalSecretaryofPune inApril 2006.At that time therewereonly�8membersofTheHimalayanClub inPuneandnosectionalactivities.Initially, I called meeting of these members which included mountaineers likeSurendra Chavan and Umesh Zirpe. We discussed organizing various activities ofPunesection, fundraising for financialself-sufficiencyand increasingmembershipbyapproachingmembersof trekkingandmountaineeringclubsalreadyexisting inPuneandaround.

My consulting rooms on Apte Road,Deccan Gymkhana were used asthe office of Pune section, my laptopcomputerandLCDProjectorwereusedfor all the meetings and I provided Rs.25,000asanadvance.

Inaugural Function of Pune Section ofHC was organized on 25th June 06 inApte Sabhagriha- Hall of 500 capacitywhich was full with enthusiastic crowdof mountain and adventure lovers.Short filmsonKailas-ManasParikrama,

InaugurationofthePuneSection.Mr.HarishKapadia(L)andDr.Godbole(R).


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EverestBaseCampTrek&IMAXfilmofEverestclimbwereshownandMumbaiofficebearers Divyesh Muni, Rajesh Gadgil, Rajendra Wani and Harish Kapadia talkedaboutvariousaspectsofTheHimalayanClub.

AsetofoldHimalayanJournalsandmapsweredonatedbytheMumbaiofficeandasetof�00bookswasdonatedbymyselftoformthelibraryofPunesection.Setof60newmembers’applicationsalongwithchequeswashandedovertoMumbaiofficebearers–arecordnumberonasingledayinthehistoryofourclub.

ItwasdeclaredthattherewillbeamonthlymeetingonlastSundayeveningofeverymonthandmemberswereencouragedtodoaudio-visualpresentationsoftheirtreksandexpeditions.ItwasfreeforallmembersbutguestswerechargedRs.50perhead.Eachmemberwasencouragedtobringatleastoneguesttocoversomeexpensesofthemeetingandthepresentertobringasponsortocoveratleasthallrentforthatmeeting.

Members were also requested to donate books, maps, journals, CDs to the locallibraryandthoseusinganyitemsinthelibrarywereappealedtogivesomevoluntarymonetarycontributiontotheclub.AllthesethingsweredeemednecessarybecauseapartfromRs.5000givenbyMumbaiheadofficetowardsinitialpostageandprintingexpenses,PunesectionwouldnotgetanyyearlymonetaryhelpfromMumbaiheadoffice.Wewantedoursectiontobefinanciallyself-sufficient.

Inthefirst4years,40indoorprogramsinPuneandonly4outdoortrainingortrekkingprogramsinSahyadriaroundPunewereorganized.Onreviewingtheseactivitiesandalso their financial audit, someobservationsanddirections for futureweredrawn,whichwere

Members’ attendance and guest contributions for indoor programsweregraduallydecreasing. Indoor programs incurred some loss while all outdoor programs hadmore attendance and resulted in economic self-sufficiency as well as a positivefeedbacksfrommembers.

Sponsorships and donations for indoor programs were difficult to get, whileoutdoor programs were financially self-sufficientand even profitable because ofcontributionsfromattendingmembersandguests(guestswerechargedabout�0%morethanmembers)

Indoor programsaremoreattendedandlikedbyoldermemberswhoarenotactivelydoinganyoutdooractivitieswhileoutdoorprogramsaremoreattendedandlikedbyyoungmembers.

Younger generation prefers more outdoor activities over indoor activities, prefersmore relatively safer trekking over difficult or technical climbing, prefers CDsand Internet over printed books and journals, and is more interested in presenthappenings & future developments about various events in mountains rather thanhistoryofclimbingvariousmountainpeaks.


�6

Although, some youngstersattendedourindoorprogramsandmanyparticipatedinouroutdoorprograms,theywerenotenthusiasticaboutjoiningourclubasmembersbecausetheydidnotneedclubmembershiptogetanyinformationaboutanytrekorpeak.Theycouldbecomemembersofotherclubsatamuchlessercostorevenfreeandwithoutanyqualifyingcriteria.Theyalsohavevariedinterestsinmountainslike wildlife, culture of local people, climate changes, environmental conservation,socialactivities tohelpmountainpeople, treeplantations,naturephotographyandvideographyapartfromtrekkingandmountaineering.

Attheendoftheseinitial4years,wehadabalanceofonlyRs.22,000inourBankaccount.

DuringAnnualMeetinginMay20�0,alltheabovepointswerediscussedandfollowingresolutionswerepassed

Numberofindoorhallprogramswillbereducedtoonly�or2everyyear

Numberofoutdoorprogramswillbeincreasedto3-4treksandtrainingprogramsinSahyadriandoneHighaltitudetrekkingexpeditioninHimalayaeveryyear.

Allthecommunicationsandinvitationsofvariousprogramswillbethroughemail&notbyprintedlettersbypost,soastosavepaperandmoney.

Innext4years,only8indoorprogramswereheldinPuneandasmanyas20outdoortrainingandtrekkingprogramsinSahyadriand4HighaltitudetreksintheHimalayawereorganized.

Althougholderand inactivemembershaveaccepted thispatternof functioningasan inevitable change, younger and active members have welcomed it with moreenthusiasmandparticipation.

Our current membership has recently crossed �00 mark with a healthy bankbalance.

ThePunesectionisfinanciallyself-sufficientwithoutanymonitoryaidfromMumbaiheadofficeandwithoutanysponsors.Asaconsequence,wecanhold�or2indoorprogramseveryyear.

IamhappythatPunesectionisdoingwellinitsactivities.

Glimpses of Programs of Pune Section of the Himalayan Club (2006-14)

High Altitude Treks: AnnapurnaCircuitinNepal-Oct.20�0,GosaikundinNepal–June20��,EverestBaseCampinNepal–May20�2,ManasluCircuitinNepal–Oct.20�3,AnnapurnaBaseCampinNepal–April20�4

Illustrated Talks: NandaDeviSanctuaryandPeak,FlowersofHimalaya,DoctorsonEverest,WomenonEverest,ReinholdMessner–All�4EightThousanders,TibetExploration, Gangotri to Badrinath, North Everest Base Camp, Mt. Kailas & LakeMansarovar, Adi Kailas and Om Parvat, Gokyo Peak and Lake, Roopkund, LehLadakhJeepSafari,HimalayanWildlife,Kedartal,VasukitalinNandanvan


�7

Films: Films from Banf Film Festival,Canada, 80 Years of The HimalayanClub, Everest -May �996 Tragedy,Acclimatization during mountaineering,GangaRiverfromGomukhtoSundarban,Everest Base Camp Trek, Cycling inKashmir&Ladakh,WaterfallRappelling,MotorbikingManali-Leh-Shrinagar,MarkInglis-doubleamputeeEverester.

Workshops: Mountain Photography,Stars and Planets gazing, First Aid &Mountain Medicine, Rock climbing andrappelling

Guest Lectures & Felicitations of Mountaineers

Mr. Gurdial Singh – Climbs in IndianHimalayapost-independence

Dr. N.S.Bhagwanani – Doctor in FirstIndianEverestExpedition�960

Dr. Lala Telang – Doctor in FirstSuccessful Indian Everest Expedition�964Mr. Harish Kapadia – Explorationsin&bookonSiachenGlacier

Mr. Vasant Limaye – Leader of Firstcivilian expedition to KangchenjungaMr. Surendra Chavan – First CivilianMaharashtrianEveresterin�998Mr. Rajan Deshmukh–Leaderofcivilianexpeditions toSatopanth&MukutParvat.

Mr. Umesh Zirpe – Leader of civilianexpeditionstoShivling,Everest,Lhotse,Makalu.

Mr. Divyesh Muni – Climbs inUttarakhanda & Eastern Karakoram

Mr. RajeshGadgil–ClimbsinUttarakhand&EasternKarakoram

Mr. Malli Babu –Worldrecordof7highestsummitsof7continentsin7months.

Miss Krishna Patil –YoungestMaharashtrianfemaleEveresterin2009

Master Arjun Vajpai–YoungestIndianEveresterin20�0

Dr. Murad Lala–FirstIndianCivilianDoctorEveresterin20�3

MembersofPuneSectiononaTrektoEverestBC.

HeadStandatGosaikund.

TrektoManaslu.


�8

The Himalayan Club – Kolkata Section

Commemoration of Birth Centenary of Tenzing Norgay

The Kolkata Section of the Himalayan Club held a talk to commemorate the birthcentenaryof tensingNorgay.The talkwasheldonJuly27,20�4atRotarySadan,Kolkata.PriyadarshiGuptagivesaperspectiveontheevent.

“Ineededtogo...thepullofEverestwasstrongerformethananyforceonearth.”-Tenzing

“…Iftherewaseveranyonewhodeservedtogettherefirst,itwasTenzing”.-Hillary

Tenzing Norgay was an enigma! Anintrepid Sherpa mountaineer obsessedwith attaining the sacred summit of MtEverest (8850m). He lived, slept andbreathed Everest and till it was actually

ascendedbyHillaryandhimin�953,Tenzinghadprobablyspentthemaximumtimeonit,havingbeenapartofseveralEverestexpeditionspriortothesuccessful�953climb...

In this backdrop, on the27th of July20�4, at the Rotary Sadan, eruditemountain researcher and traveller,Sujoy Das rendered an articulateand well documented presentationon the life of Tenzing, its trials andtribulations as well as successesandtriumphs.

TheprogramstartedwithDr.RupamanjariBiswas,theHon.LocalSecretaryreadinga note sent by Tenzing’s son, JamlingNorgay on behalf of Tenzing’ family.Mr. Das’ presentation held the near fullhall in rapt attention. The presentationwas followed by a Question & Answersession. The program was attended bymountaineering enthusiasts as well asdignitaries from the Consulates of Italy,GermanyandNepal,amongstothers.

Reminiscing the lost ‘Tiger of the Snows’…(Commemorating the birth centenary of TenzingNorgay)

Audience raptly listening to Mr. Sujoy Das’presentation

Mr.SujoyDasPresenting


�9

In the spirit of Tenzing’ birth centenarycommemoration, an expedition of TheHimalayanClubKolkataSectiontovirginpeaks in GompeTokpo in the SouthZanskar region of the LadakhHimalaya,wasflaggedoff.

The Expedition Ice Axe was handedoverbyveteranmountaineerandex-VicePresident of the Himalayan Club, AVM(Retd.)ApurbaKumarBhattacharya.

TheteammembersareRajeevK.Mondal(Leader),SubratoDe(Dy.Leader),AdritaPaul, Ganesh Saha, Biplab Banerjee,Prasanta Gorai and Arun Sen. INTECHhas sponsored the hardware for theexpedition.

A minutes silence was observed at thecommencement of the programme inmemory of all those whom we lost onthemountainsintherecenttragedies.

The Himalayan Club – Mumbai Section

Journey through my Lense - Photo Exhibition by Mr. Deepak Bhimani

JourneysthroughmyLensisnotjustanexhibitionofphotographsbutaconfluenceof threedifferenthobbies–Photography,TrekkingandAmateurAstronomy,whereDeepakBhimanihascapturedthroughhiscamerathesplendourofdifferentpeaksoftheMajesticHimalayasandthebeautyoftheskies.

TheExhibitionwasheldfrom22ndSeptemberto30thSeptember20�4.

TheproceedsofthisexhibitionwillcontributetotheLadakhInstituteofPrevention(forthestudyofEnvironmental,Occupational,lifestylerelated&HighAltitudeDiseases)

News & Views

The Himalayan Club Hon. Local Secretary in Kathmandu Ms. Elizabeth Hawley has a peak named after her

Ms.ElizabethHawley,thelongstandingHon.LocalsecretaryoftheHimalayanClubinKathmandu,hasapeaknamedafterher.TheGovernmentofNepal, recognisedherexemplarycontributiontodocumentingthehistoryofclimbsinNepalhasnameda6�82mpeakafterher.She isbestknownfor theHimalayanDatabasewhereshe

AVM(Retd)A.K.Bhattacharyyawiththeexpeditionteam

AVM (Retd) A.K. Bhattacharyya handing over theexpeditionice-axe


20

chronicled the expeditions to the Nepal Himalayas overfrom�905through20�3overa5decadelongcareerasajournalist.(http://www.himalayandatabase.com).

For more than five decades, Elizabeth Hawley hasbeen chronicling the highs and lows of Himalayanmountaineering.

FromconfirmingthefirstascentofEverestbyablindclimberto raisingdoubtsaboutaKoreanwoman’sclaimtohavebaggedacrucial,8,000msummit,theAmericanjournalisthasenjoyedaroyalboxseattomanyofmountaineering’s

greatestdramas.Andat theageof90,sheexpressesnoenthusiasmforgivingupwhatsheloves.

And this week, the authorities in Nepal underscored the contribution Ms Hawleyhasmade to their countrybyannouncing theywerenamingamountainafterher.TheyalsosaidthatPeakHawley–at6,�82metres,relativelymodestbyHimalayanstandards-willforthefirsttimebeopentoforeignclimbers.

“Ithinkit’sajoke,”MsHawleytoldTheIndependentfromKathmandu.“Theyshouldnotnamemountainsafterpeople.”

Ms Hawley, originally from Chicago, first arrived in the Nepalese capital in �959,less than a decade after Nepal first opened its borders to foreign visitors. Havingleft the US to travel in Europe and Asia, she had been offered a chance to writeforTimemagazine and contribute any stories she discovered in the Himalayankingdom.Shefoundherselfentranced.

Oneofher firstscoopsrelated to the�963USexpedition toEverest.According toreports,MsHawleypersuadedtheUSmilitaryattachétoallowher touseasecretradiosetthatwasattheEverestbasecamp.Asaresult,shewasabletofilehercopyaboutthesuccessfulattemptlongbeforeherrivals.

A graduate of the University of Michigan, Ms Hawley eventually landed the job ofmountaineeringcorrespondentfortheReutersnewsagency.

But itwasher involvementwiththeHimalayanDatabasethathassawherassumeacentralpositionwithintheworldofNepalesemountaineering.Combiningtheskillsofdetectiveandalibrarian,shehasloggedtheascentsofallmajorpeakswithinNepal.Tothisday,mostclimbersorexpeditionleadersarrivinginNepalwillpayheravisitatherapartmentinthecitycentre.

Whilesheoccupiesnoofficialposition,anentryinthedatabasesheoverseeshasfordecadesrepresentedconfirmationofaclimbtothemountaineeringworld.Likewise,her raising doubts about a climber’s claims to have reached the top, or to havefollowedacertainroute,candoomit.

Asked for some of the most memorable ascents she has catalogued, Ms Hawleyreferredtothat�963USsummitingofEverest,avastexpeditionthatsawAmerican

Ms.ElizabethHawley


2�

JimWhittakerandSherpaNawangGombureach the top.Shealsomentioned thefirstascentofEverestbyablindclimber,anundertakingachieved in200�byErikWeihenmayer.

LesspleasantwasactingasanarbiterinthehugelycontroversialrecordclaimmadebySouthKoreanfemaleclimberOhEun-Sun,whoin20�0completedanascentofAnnapurna, and claimed as a result to have climbed all �4 of the world’s 8,000mmountains.

Therewerewidespreadaccusations fromotherclimbers thatMsOhhadfailed theyearbeforetoreachthesummitofMtKanchenjunga,locatedontheborderofNepal,IndiaandChina.MsHawleylookedintothematterandinterviewedSherpa’sinvolvedintheexpedition.ShemarkedMsOh’sclimbas“disputed”.

MsOh lateradmitted thatadverseweatherhad forcedher tostopa few feetshortof the summit of Mt Kanchenjunga. Edurne Pasaban, a Spanish climber is nowrecognisedas the firstwomanclimber tohave successfully summited the8,000mmountains,afterhavingclimbedChina’sShishapangmainMay20�0.

OfficialsmayhavebeeninspiredtoactoverPeakHawleybyFrenchclimberFrançoisDamilano,whomade the first ascentof themountain, locatedclose to theborderwith China, six years ago. At the time, he unofficially named the mountain, in theHumladistrictofnorth-westNepal,afterher.

MsHawley,whostilldrivesherselfaroundKathmandu,grumbledthatNepal’smovetonamemountainsafter individuals rather thanusing localnameswasnot in linewithpracticeselsewhere.

ShepointedtothestrugglebytheUSstateofAlaskatoofficiallyrenameMtMcKinley,thehighestpeakinNorthAmerica,toDenali,thenameusedbythelocalindigenoustribes and which means “great one”. Efforts to do so at a federal level have beenblockedbytheUSCongressionaldelegationfromOhio.OhiowashometoWilliamMcKinley,the25thpresidentoftheUS.

Ms Hawley said she had no plans to give up her work. “Why would I stop? WhatwouldIdo,sitaroundandwatchTV?Idon’tevenaTV,”shesaid.“Gohome?I’venotbeentotheUSfor60yearsandithaschangedsomuch.WherewouldIlive?”

Sheadded:“IamhappywithwhatI’mdoing,aslongasIcandothejobandkeepmywitsaboutme.”

Adapted from the Independent August 20, 2014


22

Climbing Fees Reduced in India

The Indian Mountaineering Foundation has sent out the reduced fee structure forthe20�4and20�5climbingseasoninaccordancewiththecampaign“777DaysofIncredibleIndianHimalaya”launchedbyMinistryofTourism,GovernmentofIndia.

ThefeeischargedbytheIndianMountaineeringFoundation(IMF)forclimbingpeaksinIndianHimalayatoallForeign/JointExpeditions(ForeignClimbers):

Height of Peak

Existing Peak FeeAs per concession of peak fee

50% fee for the climbing season 2014 & 2015

Below6500M I.US$500forpartyoftwomembers.

II.Foradditionalmembersuptoseven,US$200each(i.e.totalfor7membersUS$�500).

III.Thereafter,foreachadditionalmemberUS$250uptoamaximumlimitoftwelvemembers.

I.US$250forpartyoftwomembers.

II.Foradditionalmembersuptoseven,US$�00each(i.e.totalfor7membersUS$750).

III.Thereafter,foreachadditionalmemberUS$�25uptoamaximumlimitoftwelvemembers.

650�Mto7000M

US$700forpartyoftwomembers.

Foradditionalmembersuptoseven,US$300each(i.e.totalfor7membersUS$2200).

Thereafter,foreachadditionalmemberUS$350uptoamaximumlimitoftwelvemembers.

US$350forpartyoftwomembers.

Foradditionalmembersuptoseven,US$�50each(i.e.totalfor7membersUS$��00).

Thereafter,foreachadditionalmemberUS$�75uptoamaximumlimitoftwelvemembers

700�andabove

(�)US$�000forpartyoftwomembers.

(2)Foradditionalmembersuptoseven,US$400each(i.e.totalfor7membersUS$3000).

(3)Thereafter,foreachadditionalmemberUS$450uptoamaximumlimitoftwelvemembers.

(�)US$500forpartyoftwomembers.

(2)Foradditionalmembersuptoseven,US$200each(i.e.totalfor7membersUS$�500).

(3)Thereafter,foreachadditionalmemberUS$225uptoamaximumlimitoftwelvemembers.

ForTrekkingpeaks

(i.e.StokKangri,Ladakhi&Friendship)

(�)US$�00forpartyoftwomembers.

(2)Foradditionalmembersuptoseven,US$50each(i.e.totalfor7membersUS$350).

(3)Thereafter,foreachadditionalmemberUS$�00uptoamaximumlimitoftwelvemembers.

(�)US$50forpartyoftwomembers.

(2)Foradditionalmembersuptoseven,US$25each(i.e.totalfor7membersUS$�75).

(3)Thereafter,foreachadditionalmemberUS$50uptoamaximumlimitoftwelvemembers

Note:NochangeforLiaisonOfficer(LO)EquipmentHirecharges.


23

104 New Peaks open for Mountaineering in Nepal

The Government of Nepal has recently opened �04 peaks for mountaineering.The motivation to open peaks is to develop and promote mountaineeringactivity in Nepal.The Government of Nepal named and opened Hillary Peak(768�m),TenzingPeak (798�m), Herzog Peak (7555m),LechenalPeak (7�40m),UIAAPeak(6063m),UAAAPeak(6476)mandPeakHawley(6�82m).FourhundredandfourteenpeaksareopenforclimbinginNepal.TheNepalGovernmentmanages384peaksandNMA33peaks.TheGovernmentofNepalhasdecidedtogive freeaccesstoallpeaksbelow5800m.

Thecompletelistcanbeobtainedfrom

http://www.asian-trekking.com/news-and-updates/item/34�-government-of-nepal-officially-opens-�04-new-peaks-for-montaineering.html

Online Show on Yeti

TheAmericanAlpineClubhasputupanexcellentonlineshowonYeti.Theshowcovers the history, origins and obsessions of Mountaineers with Yeti. The show isbeautifullycraftedfromwithphotographfromthearchives.Thenewformatofonlineshowisalsoworthnoting.Amustsee!

http://www.americanalpineclub.org/clubhouse/yeti/

Forthcoming Events

Thefollowingeventsareplannedfor20�4-�5.Pleasemarkyourcalendarsandawaitfurtherdetailsoftheprogramandvenue.

November7,20�4–Mr.UmeshZirpewillgiveatalkinMumbaionhisexperiencesofclimbingthree8000mpeaksEverest,LhotseandMakalu.

January9-��,20�5–ArunSamantMemorialExpeditionPlanningWorkshop.Thisisaresidentworkshoptohelpmembersplanexpeditions.

February �4-�5, 20�5– The Himalayan Club Annual Seminar. The annual functionwill be held in Mumbai. The theme this year is Everest and commercialization ofmountaineering.

March2�,20�5–BanffMountainFilmFestivaltobescreenedinMumbai.

Jagdish C Nanavati Awards

Nominations for Jagdish C Nanavati award for excellence in mountaineering andJagdish C Nanavati Garuda medal are open. Please contact the Himalayan ClubOfficetoobtainnominationformsandtosubmitthenominations.


24

Himalayan Journal - Volume 69.

The Himalayan Journal Volume 69 is now published.

The contents of vol. 69 are

Articles

�. ThestoryoftheClimbingSherpasofDarjeeling–firstimpressions(DeepaBalsavarandNandiniPurandare)

2. AReviewoftheHimalayanJournalFrontCovers(W.M.(Bill)Aitken)

3. TrekstoPassesonIndia–BurmaBorder(HarishKapadia)

4. Trisul-theWestRidge(BrigadierAshokAbbey)

5. FirstCrossingofChaukhambaCol(DebabrataMukherjee)

6. ExploringtheValleyoftheJadhs(AshutoshMishra)

7. LureoftheUnknown(DivyeshMuni)

8. PlateauPeak-ThelastunclimbedbastionoftheSaserMassif(PradeepC.Sahoo)

9. ClimbingintheRongdoValley(JoieSeagram)

�0. RongdoValleyExplorationMay–Jun20�3(GpCaptVKSashindran)�23

��. KishtwarKailash(MickFowler)

�2. ClimbsintheHagshuBasin(DanKopperud)

�3. PortalstothePast-TrekkinginUpperMustang(LakshmiRanganathan)

�4. IllusioninMekongHeadwatersandEnchantmentsinHighlands(Tamotsu(Tom)Nakamura)

�5. HimalayanHeat(Dr.HarveyV.Lankford)

Expeditions and Notes

�. MountainFestivalsoftheWorld(BernadetteMcDonald)

2. AFortnightinGarhwal(GeoffreyCohen)

3. TheFirstAscentofKuchelaDhura(DhruvJoshi)

4. NandaDeviEast(AnindyaMukherjee)

5. DurgaSinghMartolia(ChinmoyChakrabarti)

6. ExplorationofHanumanKhal(ParthaPratimMitra)

7. RamblingsinChhotaBangahal(HarishKapadia)

8. KhhangShilingandOtherClimbsinBaraShigriGlacier(CosminAndron)

9. TheProwofShiva(MickFowler)

�0. TheHimalayanBimbleFirstAscentofChaRi(6046m)(DouglasBriton)

��. FirstAscentofNgaTsoeyKangri-KyotoUniversityAlpineClubZanskarExpedition(HiroakiOgihara)

�2. ExplorationofZanskar’sPensilungpaValley(DerekR.Buckle)


25

Book Reviews

�. Shipton&Tilman:TheGreatDecadeofHimalayanExploration(JimPerrin)

2. MyFather,Frank(TonySmythe)

3. 8000Metres–ClimbingtheWorld’sHighestMountains(AlanHinkes)

4. SacredMountain(RobertFerguson)

5. AmongSecretBeauties–AMemoirofMountaineeringinNewZealandandtheHimalayas(BrianWilkins)

6. DickIsherwood-Mountaineer(AnAnthologycompiledbyJohnAshburner)

7. Tibet:AHistory(SamvanSchaik)

In Memoriam

�. AspiDModdie2. GeorgeLowe3. IanMcNaught-Davis4. Richard(Dick)Isherwood5. RMartinScott6. NawangTopgaySherpa

ObituariesJohn Tyson

JB(John)TysonOBE,MCwasbornonApril7,�928atPatrickScotland.HediedonMarch�0,20�4attheageof85years.HewasbroughtupinLondon.HeacquiredapassionforclimbingduringfamilyholidaysinScotland,FranceandSwitzerland.He

was a member of The Himalayan Clubsince�952.

Tyson read Geography at MagdalenCollege, Oxford, and in �952 led thefirst ever Oxford University ScientificExpeditiontotheHimalayas.Inadditiontoworkonseveralhigh-altitudescientificprojectsintheTehri-Gahrwalregion,theteam made first ascents of Gangotri IandGangotri III,bothmorethan2�,000ft.high.

In�953hejoinedtheScottishmountaineerWH Murray on an exploratory journeyto the Api and Nampa region in the farnorth-west of Nepal, which had newlyopeneditsborderstoforeigners.

John Tyson outside a climbing hut in the SwissAlps.Photo:CourtesyTysonFamily.


26

He was an English schoolmaster who made it his personal mission to map theKanjirobaHimal,aremotegroupofmountainpeaksinnorth-westNepal—amongthemostruggedandforbiddingintheHimalayas.

Tyson’squestbeganin�96�whenheledthefirstofseveralsmallsurveyingmissionstotheregion,withtheaimofmappingtheprincipalmountainrangesandlocating,andifpossibleclimbing,thehighestsummit,MountKanjiroba(22,580ft).

Theexpeditionsucceededinmakingthefirstascentsofseveral20,000ftpeakswhichgaveexcellentviewsformap-making,buttheywereunabletolocateaviablerouteontotheKanjirobaHimalalongthesheer-sidedscree-coveredgorgeoftheJagdulariver.

In�963theRoyalGeographicalSocietyrecognisedTyson’sworkwiththeNessAward;and threeyears later the resultsofhis surveying—amapof theKanjirobaHimaland the adjacent area in the Karnali region — was published in the GeographicalJournal.

In�964heledanotherexpeditionviatheLanguKhola,thegorgeoftheLanguRiverwhich, after rising in the gentle uplands of Dolpo, thunders between sheer wallsthroughtheKanjirobamassif.

In�957hemarriedPhebePope,whosurviveshimwiththeirdaughterandtwosons.

Adapted from the Telegraph


27

Office bearers of the Himalayan Club for the year 2014

OFFICERS

President BrigadierAshokAbbeyVicePresident Mr.TanilKilachand Mr.RaviSingh Mr.PradeepSahooHon.Treasurer Mr.DeepakBhimaniHon.Secretary Ms.NandiniPurandare

Members of the Committee

Mr.PriyadarshiGupta Mr.ShaileshMahadeviaMr.RajendraWani Mr.RaviMariwalaDr.RaghunathGodbole Mr.MotupChewangMr.DivyeshMuni Mr.RajeshGadgilMr.VijayPuri Mr.RishadNaoroji

Additional Members of Balloting Committee

Mr.MoneshDevjani Mr.ManikBanerjeeMr.RavindraApte Gp.Capt.V.K.Sashidaran.

Hon. Local Secretaries

India

Almora HimanshuPandeyBangalore KamleshVenugopalDarjeeling DorjeeLhatooDelhi ManinderKohliJammu&Kashmir SatPaulSahniKolkata Dr.RupamanjariBiswasLeh MotupChewangManali MahavirThakurMussoorie KrishnanKuttyMumbai RajendraKumarMahajanPune Dr.RaghunathGodboleShimla DeepakSanan


28

Overseas

Australia GarryWeareFrance ClaudeGardienJapan YoshioOgataKorea BaeSeungYoulNepal ElizabethHawleyNewZealand JohnNankervisPakistan NazirSabirSpain JosePaytubiSouthAfrica Dr.S.ACravenSweden AkeNilssonSwitzerland EricBernhardtU.K ------U.S.A. DonaldGoodman NicholasClinch PaddyIyer

Hon. Editor RajeshGadgilHon. Associate Editor NandiniPurandareHon. Librarian GroupCaptVKSashindranHon. Asst. Librarians RajeevDas(Mumbai) RajeshGadgil(Mumbai) ChandraSekharGosh(Kolkata)Hon. Equipment Officer RajendraWaniHon. Asst. Equipment Officer SubhashisRoy(Kolkata)Hon. Asst. Treasurer DebrajDutta(Kolkata)Web Master RajanRikameE-Letter Team RaviMariwala RajeshGadgil NandiniPurandareE-Group Moderator Cdr.K.B.Singh DivyeshMuniPresident Emeritus Dr.M.S.GillEditor Emeritus Mr.HarishKapadia


29

Edited by Ravi Mariwala

Published for the Himalayan ClubHimalayanClubCentre,3�4,TurfEstate,ShaktiMillsLane,offDr.E.MosesRoad,

Mahalaxmi[West],Mumbai4000��,India.Phone:[9�-22]249�2829.

Website:www.himalayanclub.org

Ifyoudonotwishtoreceivethee-letterpleaseletusknowatinfo@himalayanclub.org(Forprivatecirculationonly)

ViewofGlacierIIfromthesummitofTusuhmKangri(62�9m).

Documents

Volume 30 October 2014 - The Himalayan Club · Gadgil, Atin Sathe, Pemba Norboo, Phurba, Pasang and I were on the summit by .20 a.m. We were rewarded by grand views on all sides