VTCT Hair and Beauty Studies: Level 1 Foundation Diploma Student Book Unit 3

VTCT LEVEL 1 FOUNDATION DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES UNIT 3 INTRODUCING HAIR STYLINGVTCT LEVEL 1 FOUNDATION DIPLOMA IN HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDIES UNIT 3 INTRODUCING HAIR STYLING

� 3

Unit 3 Introducing hair styling

Introduction Three of the six industries in the hair and beauty sector are involved in hair styling: hairdressing, barbering and African Caribbean. But even though each one is very different, they all have the same focus when it comes to the basics.

This unit will help you to understand hair types and how to make the most of them in styling. You will also investigate trends, tools, products and equipment. And, of course, handling equipment means you will need some knowledge of health and safety.

Being familiar with past trends and understanding how to work with different hair types and tools will all help you with one thing: great styling results.

Learning outcome Covered in section…Page number

LO1:

Know the key trends and developments in the hair sector

Trends and influences

Understanding the different industries 000

LO2:

Know the main factors that influence hair style and styling techniques

Anatomy and physiology

Relevance when working with hair000

Hair types and styles

Meaning and use of basic hair and beauty terminology

000

LO3

Be able to demonstrate a range of styling and finishing techniques for men and women

Tools, products and equipment

Understanding what can be used to create each style

000


Awareness of what can be produced

000

Hair styling techniques and methods

Understanding the services and treatments that are available

000

Healthy and safe working practices

Health, safety and hygiene: sanitisation, sterilisation, cross-infection, disinfectant, personal protective equipment, potentially infectious conditions

000

LO4:

Be able to review styling and finishing techniques

Review learning and progress

Gaining feedback from others regarding your progress 000

Links to other units

This unit provides the opportunity to link to other units within the principal learning.

Unit 1 Introducing the hair and beauty sector

This will help you to understand the role and influence of the hair and beauty sector and know what treatments are typically offered by each industry.

Unit 2 Creating a positive impression within hair and beauty

This will help you to understand how to create a positive impression as a professional, and why this is important. It will also help you to find out what customers would like.

Throughout this unit you will be able to practise being:

an independent enquirer

a creative thinker, and

a reflective learner.

You will also be able to practise your skills in:

speaking and listening

reading, and

writing.

l

l

l

l

l

l


� �

Trends and influencesIn this section you will explore hair styles through the ages and their effect on today’s styles. For example, styles in ancient civilisations such as the Romans and Egyptians were influenced by culture and experimenting with results – much as today. You will also look at tools, equipment and products. Many of these today are based on what was used in the past.

Styling toolsStyling tools have developed over hundreds of years. Think about curlers, for example.

To begin with, many ancient civilisations used heated iron bars to curl their hair.

Then the 1800–1900s, double wave crimping irons and curling irons were created. These were heated over a fire to make them effective.

Electricity meant that curling irons became much safer and caused less damage to hair.

In the 1950s, setting the hair in curlers was the first step in creating modern bouffant styles.

ProductsIn ancient civilisations:

Africans and Native Americans used grease or clay in their hair

the Japanese used wax

the Romans created what they called ‘holding solutions’

relaxing creams were developed to straighten curly African Caribbean hair and create smoother hair styles.

The Egyptians used aromatherapy oils to stimulate hair growth. Scalp treatments included the use of animal fats from lions, hippopotamuses, crocodiles, ibex, serpents and geese.

Men’s productsIn the 1920s, powerful American advertising persuaded men to try Brylcreem, a styling product to hold hair in place. (Men could also buy hair tonics and oils from barbering salons and chemists.) The main ingredient was lanolin, which gave a shiny but heavy look. But when men’s hairstyles changed in the 1960s, companies began to create lighter gel and water-based products.

ColourOur ancestors coloured their hair with very basic dyes. For example, Africans use red earth, Egyptians uses henna and Romans used dye to make a golden–red colour or would even bleach the hair. Native Americans painted their hair and the Elizabethans used bleach to try to create a red colour. Today, African Americans are able to successfully bleach and colour their hair.

l

l

l

l

l

l

l

l

AccessoriesMany civilisations used hair accessories such as ribbons, flowers, hair pins, bones, sticks and combs. Many of these were individually crafted and quite ornate. For example, Native Americans wound their hair around curved wood or used a disc-shaped fan to style hair. Another elaborate African style was plaiting hair over a cone-shaped basket frame and decorating with long bone needles.

Hair pieces, wigs and extensionsHair pieces, wigs and extensions have always been popular.

Native Americans created artificial brightly coloured hair known as roaches (also known as Mohawk or Mohican hairstyle), made from porcupine or deer hair.

The Ancient Greeks, Romans and Victorians used hair pieces.

During the eighteenth century wigs were very elaborate. Some used wire to give enough height so that objects such as ships or bird cages could be placed in them.

l

l

l

Starting PointHas anyone said to you:

‘I used to wear my hair like that when I was your age?’

Do you think we should use the past for inspiration?

Jargon busterAllergic reaction – skin reacts badly to a product

Serpents – snakes

Henna – reddish-brown plant dye

Ibex – wild goat

Mohawk and Mohican – Native American tribes and a type of hair style

Porcupine – like a large rodent with sharp erectile bristles and fur

Social status – e.g. in ancient civilisations whether someone was a slave or king

Did you know? In 1910 a French hairdresser,

Gaston Boudou, produced the first range of pre-mixed hair colours. The main ingredient was amino

dyes, which caused severe allergic reactions. These days, salons

usually do an allergy test before using some products.

Did you know?Alexandre Godefoy invented the first electric hair dryer in 1890.

Charles Nestle invented the first perm machine in the early 1900s.

The pressing/curling iron was patented by Theora Stephens, 1980.

l

l

l

Did you know?In Ancient China, hairdressers did not like cutting hair. Short hair was sometimes the sign of a bad person, so prisoners would have to have their hair cut. However, monks and nuns would shave their heads to devote their lives to their religion.

<insert 9780435447540_ph_002>

Hair sticks have been used throughout history – from the ancient Japanese to modern Western styles.

Check it outWhen were heated curling irons first used?

Which ancient civilisation did not cut their hair, as it was seem as a sign of disgrace?

When did men start to use styling and hair care products?

■

■

■

Over to youThe history of hairstyling

In a small group, find out how hair styles differed between Native American tribes. You could use the Internet or textbooks for this research. Then create a handout or mood board to show your findings. You could include:

a variety of pictures

some details about the difference between male and female styles

the tools, products and accessories they would have used

whether the styles were based on age, gender and social status.

You could also write about what any similarities there are today.

PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW

Functional Skills Links: English – reading, writing; ICT

l

l

l

l


� �

Healthy and safe working practicesIn this section you will learn why health and safety are important. All businesses must comply with health and safety laws. When someone works with tools, equipment and products, they need to know what the dangers are and how to stay safe. So they, too, need to be aware of these laws. In addition, they need to know about cross-infection and hygiene, and knowing how to treat information given to them by clients.

Health and safety lawsIn hairdressing and barbering, there are many health and safety laws that must be followed.

Law Some main points of the law

Health and Safety at Work Act

To ensure all employees and clients are safe while on the premises.

To be aware of salon hazards and dangers.

To make sure Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) (gloves, apron, gowns when using chemicals, etc.) are used.

To report accidents and fill in necessary reports.

To report faulty equipment and label it ‘faulty.’

l

l

l

l

l

Control of Substances Hazardous to Health (CoSHH)

To ensure all employees understand how all products are used, handled, stored and disposed of correctly. (Products in hair industries include, styling products, tints, peroxide, relaxing chemicals, and anything that is poisonous, toxic, flammable.)

l

Electricity at Work Regulations

Equipment suppliers to train employees to use their equipment.

Employees to check electrical equipment EVERY TIME before use on client (e.g. check wires, plug and machine, before switching on).

l

l

Personal Protective Equipment at Work Regulations

PPE to protect employees and clients from injuries or damage to clothing during a treatment. (All employees must be given PPE and trained to use all equipment.)

l

Fire Precaution Work Place Regulations

Businesses to have regular fire drills.

Employees to be trained for a fire evacuation.

l

l

Workplace policies for salonsWorkplace policies clearly explain how to keep everyone safe in a salon environment. These policies state the responsibilities of key employees, including:

making risk assessments

providing a first-aider and first-aid facilities

creating emergency procedures

reporting accidents, hazards and risks.

Employers must enforce safe working practices and ensure that all employees understand and follow the health and safety laws. Disposing of all types waste (glass, paper, chemicals, sharp items) is also important. For example, razor blades (which could come into contact with blood) must be disposed of in a special box (a Sharps Disposal Bin), which is later collected for incineration.

Manufacturer’s instructionsWhen using any products on clients, you must always read the manufacturer’s instructions. This will make sure you are following health and safety laws – especially CoSHH.

Skin testsClients should always have a skin test before chemical products are used on them. A small amount of the product (e.g. tint and peroxide) is placed behind the client’s ear and left for 2–4 days. Any irritation, swelling or redness should be noted on their record card and a different treatment used.

Cross-contamination and hygieneCross-contamination will happen if health and safety policies are not correctly followed. These infections can be directly or indirectly caused. To prevent them everyone must:

wash their hands in between clients

check for contra-indications

use clean towels and gowns

sterilise all tools and equipment, to prevent this.

Client consultation and the Data Protection ActAs well as writing on a client’s records any allergies, any contra-indications or infectious conditions should also be recorded. This information is especially important if a different person works on them when they next visit the salon. Aftercare advice must also be noted, especially if clients buy and use products from the salon.

In hairdressing, you get to know a lot of personal information about your clients. If you disclose any of that information, then you are breaking the Data Protection Act.

l

l

l

l

l

l

l

l

Jargon busterContra-indications – infections or infestations that you can catch, e.g. head lice or scabies

Cross-contamination – infections or infestations passed to other people or objects

Incineration – burning

Scabies – tiny animal mites living in the skin

Sterilise –kill or inhibit micro-organisms that contaminate tools

Starting PointHave you ever had a good look

around a salon or barber’s?

Where they clean and uncluttered?

Did you feel safe?

Do you think all employers and employees take health and

safety seriously?

Direct cross-infection means one person (the employee) touching another (the client) who perhaps has scabies or head lice.

Indirect cross-infection means an infected client coming into contact with a towel or tool that is then used, without being

cleaned, on another client. Check it out Do you think all businesses sterilise their tools in between clients?

How confident are you that all employees and employers follow all health and safety laws?

How would you feel if you caught a contra-indication from having a treatment?

■

■

■

Over to youIn small groups pick three laws from below, then research them to find out the main points. You could use textbooks or the Internet.

When you have done your research, you could then discuss what might happen if each law was ignored.

Workplace (Health, Safety and Welfare) Regulations

Manual Handling Operations Regulations

Provision and Use of Work Equipment Regulations

Health and Safety (First Aid) Regulations

Office, Shops and Railway Premises Act

Employer’s Liability Act

Fire Precautions Act

Environmental Protection Act

Now create a poster to help someone else understand what one of your chosen laws means.


Functional Skills Links:

l

l

l


� �

Anatomy and physiologyIn this section you will look the anatomy and physiology of the hair and skin. You will find out what happens underneath the skin’s surface and learn some of the key stages of hair growth. There is also some useful terminology, helping you to build your hairdressing vocabulary.

The hairHairs cover the whole body – except for the palms of your hands, the soles of your feet, your lips and parts of the genital organs. What’s more, three different types of hairs cover your scalp, eyebrows, eyelashes, nostrils, ears, face and body.

Type 1: lanugo. These are soft, fine, downy hairs found on the face and body of unborn babies. They are replaced with vellus and terminal hairs around 7–8 months into the pregnancy.

Type 2: vellus. These are fine, soft and downy. They are found on the face and body. They have shallow follicles, and are usually unpigmented. They can be stimulated to produce terminal hairs.

Type 3: terminal. These are long and course, and mostly pigmented. They have deep-seated follicles and are found on the scalp, eyebrows, eyelashes and pubic regions.

Growth and structureThere are three stages of hair growth.

Anagen is the active stage where hair growth takes place.

Catagen is the changing stage where the hair detaches from the base of the follicle and the bulb.

Telogen is the resting stage of the follicle before the start of new hair growth.

The hair structure is made up of three layers.

Layer 1: the cuticle. This is the outer layer. It has overlapping transparent scales and protects the other layers.

Layer 2: the cortex. This is the middle layer. It makes up the bulk of the hair and gives it strength and elasticity. This is where pigment cells are found.

Layer 3: the medulla. This is the centre layer. It is not always present in very fine hair. The function of this layer is unclear.

Hair follicles and bulbsThese are depressions in the skin shaped to fit the hair within. At the base of the follicle is the bulb, and attached to the side is the sebaceous gland, which opens out into the follicle.

Also attached to the follicle is the arrector pili muscle, which contracts and closes the follicle opening. This can happen when we are scared (it gives us goose bumps!). It also helps us to maintain body heat if the temperature gets colder.

l

l

l

The dermal papilla, or matrix, is the lower part of the bulb. This is where:

new cells are made

there is a rich blood supply to bring nutrients and oxygen, leading to mitosis.

Sebaceous and sweat glandsSebaceous glands are where sebum, which keeps the skin and hair soft and supple, are found. They are all over the body except for your palms and soles. They can open in follicles or onto skin’s surface. If the gland produces too much sebum the hair and scalp will be very greasy. If it produce too little, the hair and scalp will be very dry.

Sweat glands produce sweat to hydrate the skin and keep the body cool.

l

l

l

l

Starting PointLook around you.

How many hair colours, textures, shapes and thicknesses can you see?

Why do you think there are so many differences?

How many people do you think have changed their hair with

perms, straightening or colour?

Jargon busterFollicle – depression in the skin where hair is found

Mitosis – when new cells are made

Pigmented – has natural colour

Sebum – the skin’s natural oil; it coats the skin and hair

Unpigmented – has no colour

Did you know?Skin is shed all the time. If it is shed too quickly, a condition known as dandruff will occur.

Over to youUnderstanding hair and scalp conditions

Imagine a client wants their hair styled for a special occasion. To make sure their hair looks fantastic, any conditions they have that may affect the style need to be treated.

Start by researching the conditions below. You could use the Internet or textbooks.

Then copy and complete a table like the one below.

You could type up your findings as a report or handout for others.

Condition Appearance Cause Treatment

Fragilitus crinium (split ends)

Damaged cuticle

Trichorrhexis nodosa

Seborrhoeoa (greasy hair and scalp)

PLTS Links: IE, CT, TW Functional Skills Links: English – reading, writing: IC

l

l

l

Check it out What is the difference between a sebaceous gland and a sweat gland?

What are the three parts of a strand of hair?

Can clients with hair and skin conditions do anything at home to help improve them?

■

■

■

<insert aw: 9780435447540_aw_001> A cross section of the skin and hair.


10 11

Hair types and styles (1)This section looks at everything that needs to be considered before making a decision about styling a client’s hair. We all have different types of hair, shapes of face, length of body and so on. And we all have different reasons for wanting certain hair styles – parties, wedding day, or even because of our jobs. A good stylist or barber will also consider their client’s age, lifestyle, culture and perhaps even faith. A client will get the best results if all these things are carefully thought about before the scissors and straighteners ever appear!

Hair shape, texture and densityShape, texture and density all affect how you can actually style hair.

Hair shape is generally straight, wavy or curly.

– Asian hair is mainly straight and coarse in texture.

– Caucasian or European hair is straight or wavy.

– African Caribbean is often very curly.

Texture is whether hair is fine, medium or coarse.

Density literally means how many hairs you have on your scalp – whether it is sparse, medium or thick.

Clients are individualsWhen designing or choosing a hair style, head shape, facial features, body shape, age, lifestyle and personality all need to be considered.

Head shapeIf the crown is flat, the hair should be left slightly longer in that area to compensate.

Narrow heads need to look broader, so a side parting could be used.

Broad heads need to be narrower, so a centre parting could be used.

l

l

l

l

l

l

Starting PointWould you have a new hairstyle just because it was fashionable? Or would you think first about

whether it would suit you?

Do you feel pressure to copy popular or new styles?

Facial featuresSome clients may have prominent features they wish to disguise – for example, protruding ears. Here are some general guidelines.

For long, thin necks, hair must be kept longer.

For short, wide necks, hair is layer and flicked out around the neck area.

For uneven or protruding ears, hair should be longer to cover the ears.

For a large or protruding nose, hair should be styled forward to make the nose less noticeable.

Body shapeA client’s build and size need to be thought about when planning their hair style.

Too much hair on short clients makes them look even shorter – as if they are overwhelmed by hair.

Short, flat styles on larger clients can make them look even bigger – they need length and volume to hide their size.

Age and lifestyleAge and lifestyle both have an effect on the hair style someone might choose.

Younger children may want basic styles that are easy to manage.

Teenagers are likely to be more adventurous and trendy.

Mature clients might want something soft and flattering.

People with busy lives or who do sports may want a style they can tie back or clip up.

Some professionals may have work rules regarding their hair length – for example, people in the armed forces. Others, such as cooks or the police, may have to

keep their hair under a cover or hat.

Culture or religion may have an impact on style.

Personality People are usually either introverts or extroverts, and this may affect how much attention they want to draw to themselves.

Introverts may choose a natural look that doesn’t draw attention to them.

Extroverts may be more adventurous and creative. But they might be restricted because of work regulations – in which case they could want a dual-purpose style.

[STUDIO: IF POSS START THIS SECTION ON THE SECOND DPS]

l

l

l

l

l

l

l

l

l

l

l

l

l

l

Face shape Reason for style Female Male

Oval Client’s preference An ideal shape that suits most styles.

Long Need to make face look wider and shorter.

Needs a fuller style around the sides of the face, with side parting. Short to medium length with layers will add softness.

Needs a longer, fuller style at the sides of the face and short on top. Some layers on the face.

Face shape Reason for style Female Male

Round Need to make face look narrower.

Needs height and fullness at the crown, with centre parting. Layers on top for fullness; the rest to be cut close to face but cut longer than chin length.

Sides shorter with height on top and at front. Centre or off-centre parting. A more square style.

Square Need to make bone structure appear less angled.

Needs to be cut onto sides of face, with wispy pieces. Short-to-medium length hair. Centre parting with height at crown. Curls or waves will soften shape.

Sides shorter with height on top and at the front.


1� 13

Hair types and styles (�)Special occasionsThere are several occasions when hair can be styled to make it more glamorous or sophisticated.

Wedding hairOne special event for many women is their wedding day. The stylist will usually try out different styles before the ‘big day’. They will also check that accessories like hair jewellery, flowers and other headdresses can be securely attached without spoiling the overall style.

<insert pic: 9780435447540_ph_003>

An Indian bride’s hair style and accessories.

Party hairOther occasions that call for special hair styling are parties and events. Here, elaborate styles can be created for birthdays, going to the theatre and even fancy dress occasions.

Cultural factorsCultural and faith factors can sometimes affect what is appropriate for a hairstyle.

Some cultures may use hair as a way of showing marital status, for example.

Some faiths may have guidelines about what is allowed for men and women when it comes to how they have their hair.

l

lJargon busterAsian – person from Asia or of Asian descent, or people who come from (or whose family came from) the Indian subcontinent

Caucasian – light or white skinned race

Crown – top of the head

Sparse – thin

Did you know? African Caribbean hair

has more cuticle layers and a smaller cortex than Caucasian hair.

Over to youCultural factors affecting hairstyle

You are about to research three different faiths and the hairstyles they allow. You can choose from Buddhism, Christianity, Hinduism, Islam, Judaism or Sikhism. Or, if you prefer, you can add in other religions you may know about.

First of all, work in groups of three to research the hairstyles of your chosen faiths. You can use the Internet and textbooks for this.

Then work individually for the next part of the task.

The first person can list the differences and similarities between the hairstyles.

The second person can try to find out if there is anything written in the sacred texts about hairstyles.

The third person can try to find out if the hairstyles come from culture rather than faith.

Working as a whole group again, put together all the information you have found. Discuss any opinions you have formed.

Now choose a way to present this information – perhaps as a handout, or ICT presentation.



l

l

l

l

l

l

l

Check it outWhich would be more susceptible to damage – straight, wavy or curly hair?

What factors need to be considered when choosing a style to suit a client?

What factors need to be considered when styling hair for a client with a square face shape?

■

■

■


1� 1�

Tools, products and equipmentAll stylists and barbers need to know exactly what tools, products and equipment will do the best job for each client’s hair. In this section you will look at the different types of tools, products and equipment to use when creating a style including shampooing, cutting, styling, drying and styling the hair.

ToolsAll stylists and barbers need a range of tools, such as combs, brushes, scissors, razors, clips, grips, pins and curlers.

<insert aw: 9780435447540_aw_002>

Common tools of the hairdressing trade.

Combs and brushesEach comb and brush has a specific job. It could be to untangle, dress out curly or African Caribbean hair, to help section hair during cutting or to influence the final style during drying. The list of these tools includes:

Afro combldisentangling comb

lradial/round brushl

cutting combldressing out brush or comb

ltail/pin tail combl

Denham brushl paddle brushl vent brush.l

Cutting toolsYou will not be required to use these at this stage of your studies:

scissors to cut hair into a style

scissors to remove bulk rather than length

razors that can shorten or remove bulk, and for shaving men’s facial hair.

l

l

l

Styling toolsSome of these are used when the hair is still wet and removed when it is dry:

rollers in a variety of sizes and pins to keep them in place (although some rollers stay in place without these)

pin curls

Kirby grips

wavy clips

sectioning clips

hair bands.

ProductsProducts include:

shampoos and conditioners (usually applied to wet hair), which clean hair and improve the condition of it

mousses and gel (usually applied to wet hair), which give volume to the hair, help to keep it in place and help to give it shine

hair moisturiser for African Caribbean hair (usually applied to wet hair), which hydrates and protects hair

setting lotions, blow dry spray, hairspray and wax (used on damp hair, while drying or after drying), which have an effect on the final style

straightening iron spray (used on dry hair), which helps to give shine and protect from heat.

EquipmentThis really relates to anything electrical and includes heated rollers, straightening irons, curling tongs, all types of hairdryer and clippers.

l

l

l

l

l

l

l

l

l

l

l

Starting PointHow successful are you at styling

your own hair? How would it help to know more about styling products, tools and equipment?

Jargon busterAutoclave – sterilises using steam under pressure

Barbicide – liquid used to disinfect tools

UV cabinet – sterilises using UV light

Top TipAll tools must be sterilised between clients. Metal items will go into an autoclave and non-metal items will go into a UV cabinet. Once sterilised, all combs and brushes must be stored in barbicide, which keeps them sterile.

Picture thisImagine a stylist or barber tries to use the same tools on you they had just used on another client without sterilising them. What would you do? Would you remain quiet and hope the previous client did not have any contra-indications. Or would you ask them to use tools that had been sterilised?

Check it outDo you use a hairdryer or straightening irons? If yes, do you always use a spray to protect your hair from heat damage? If not what condition is your hair in?

What types of hairdryer can you think of?

■

■

Over to youBe creative

Think about four hairstyles you have seen that you would like to recreate. Now research what you need to recreate each style.

Imagine someone asks you about these styles. Make sure you can tell them:

– the name of the style (e.g. curly bob)

– the products and equipment needed (e.g. hairdryer, wax).

Finally, think about how you will present the information about each style. For example, you could create a mood board of sketched or printed images plus written lists of what you would use (and why).

* Over a period of time, go through all the tools mentioned in this spread to make sure you know what they are. You could make a list that you tick off when you have checked.



l

l

l

l

l

l


1� 1�

Hair styling techniques and methods (1)The section looks at a range of hair styling techniques and methods. To begin with, there’s an explanation of shampooing and conditioning techniques. This is followed by details of styling techniques and finish for both men and women. Knowing all about these techniques and methods will be a great start to understanding what makes a style work, and what makes it stay in place!

Shampooing and conditioningA stylist or barber generally talks to their client before they make any decisions about styling or products. Then they prepare the hair – an important part of getting the style discussed. Part of the preparation is shampooing and conditioning – making sure that the correct products are used for the client’s scalp and hair type.

Shampooing and conditioning require specific massage movements, which are described below.

<insert aw: 9780435447540_aw_003>

Petrissage or rotary. This is a deep kneading movement used when shampooing the hair. The pads of the finger are used to move the scalp and massage the upper neck, to relieve tension.

<insert aw: 9780435447540_aw_004>

Effleurage. This is a light, even stroking movement that spreads the products all over the hair. During this process, the hands and fingers are moulded to the head. Effleurage is used as part of the massage routine when the conditioner has been applied.

<insert aw: 9780435447540_aw_005>

Friction. For this, one hand supports the head and the other hand performs the movement. The stylist or barber applies pressure with fingertips and heal of hand to move the scalp up and down relieving tension.

Styling techniques and finish for menEven though most men generally have shorter hair than women, they can still have a range of styles and finishes. For example, their hair can be finger dried, which directs the airflow and creates movement. This kind of drying creates a soft, natural finish and gives root lift. Mousse could be used to help. The hair can also be dried using mousse, gel or blow dry spray and a hairdryer.

Hair styling techniques and methods (�)

<insert pic: 9780435447540_ph_004>You can achieve several finishes using a blow dryer.

Styling techniques and finish for womenThere are many different styling techniques and finish for women, as this table shows.

Jargon busterConfidentiality – not discussing private or personal client information with anyone else

Hospitality – when a client is offered drinks and magazines at a salon; making a client feel welcome

Massage – using the hands to rub and knead the scalp and neck muscles; can relieve tension and be very relaxing

Starting PointHow many styles have you and your

friends attempted to recreate?

How successful have you been?

What do you think you need to know to have better success?

Top TipHospitality, good communication skills and confidentiality are key to ensuring a successful relationship with any client.

Method Styling products Tools

Setting with rollers

Shampooed hair is wound around a roller then dried under a hooded dryer to create curls; produces very tight to loose curls.

Mousse or setting lotion is applied to damp hair. Hairspray is used at the end to maintain the style.

Tail comb to section hair, dressing out brush to remove lines and dressing out comb to style the hair (if required).

Setting with pin curls

Shampooed hair is combed and a small section of hair is curled around the fingers then pinned with a double-pronged clip and dried under a hooded dryer.

Used to create curls, wave or height.


Combed into position.

Barrel curl

Shampooed hair is combed and wound around the fingers to create a barrel curl and pinned with a double-pronged clip. Used to produce same effect as a roller, can be used in small spaces where a roller might not fit.


Dressed out the same as roller setting.

Finger waves

Shampooed hair is combed one way and clipped then combed the other way and clipped. The hair is moulded to the fingers. This is repeated until the area is complete. The hair is secured with double pronged clips and dried under a hooded dryer. Creates ‘S’ shaped waves.


Comb to position the hair; dressing out brush to remove lines; and dressing out comb to style the hair (if required).

Blow drying

Shampooed hair can be blow dried using a brush and hairdryer to create different effects:

long, straight and smooth

medium-length bouncy bob

short with volume

curly hair using a diffuser and no brush, just scrunch drying.

l

l

l

l

Mousse, gel, or blow dry spray.

Hairspray to hold style in place.

Diffuser, fingers or brush can be used.

Sectioning clips are used to section the hair when drying.

Finger drying

Using the fingers to dry short hair or to scrunch-dry curly hair. By rotating the palm of the hand around to achieve root lift.

Mousse, gel, or blow dry spray.

Hairspray to hold style in place.

Hairdryer.

Did you know?Bobs have been a popular hairstyle throughout the ages. Even the ancient Egyptians styled their hair in a bob.

Check it outWhat are the three massage movements called? And what are the difference between them?

When shampooing and conditioning a client, do you think this should be done quickly and effectively, or effectively but relaxing?

*What are the different types of blow drying techniques? What are differences between them?

What are French plaits, pleats and corn row plaits? (You may need to use the Internet or a textbook to research these.)

■

■

■

■

Over to youBobs through the ages

What do you know about bobs? Using the Internet and textbooks research this style through the ages. You could look at when they were most popular, and the differences between them (bobs can be sometimes longer at the front or one length).

Think about how you could present your findings to a small group of people. You could create a mood board which gives examples and the history of each type of bob.

When you have shown the group your mood board, try to start a discussion about the differences of each bob.

You could continue your work on bobs by researching the tools, products and equipment needed to create each style. You could record this information on a table or diagram, or you could write the information on your mood board alongside each style.



l

l

l

lDid you know?

Indian Head Massage is a treatment that can be performed

in the salon or barbers as an extra treatment to relax the client. IHM

uses the different types of massage movement and can be done while

the client is fully dressed.

OVERMATTER u

Page 1�

OVERMATTER u


1� �0

Review learning and progressIn this unit you covered a range of information about hair styling from the different hair industries covering general stylists, African Caribbean stylists and barbers. In the table below tick the box that you think applies to your learning.

Red for stop and recap

Amber for getting ready to move on

Green for moving on

What you covered

Don’t feel confident in my knowledge of the subject at all and would like to stop and cover it again

Feel fairly confident in my knowledge of the subject but wouldn’t mind some more help

Confident in my knowledge of the subject now and want to move on

Trends and influences

Healthy and safe working practices

Anatomy and physiology




It is important that you speak to your tutor/teacher/practitioner if you ticked any red or amber boxes so that they can help you by:

directing you to some more resources such as books and websites, other specialists

giving you one-to-one support and tutorial time to discuss your knowledge and progress

covering the lesson again on this particular subject; remember, if you ticked it maybe others did too.

It will also help you to identify extra revision and study that you may need to carry out before your assessment.

Plan Do Review learning cycleThis process will form the Review part of the learning cycle.

Review learning and progress involves all of the following.

Inviting feedback on the effectiveness of your hair styling services.

Dealing positively with the feedback received.

Assessing your abilities to create a hair style in light of the feedback received and based on your own appraisal.

Identifying your strengths and areas for improvement.

Setting goals, with success criteria, for further development in hair-styling services.

Supporting your conclusions with well-reasoned arguments.

Remember, you may not be confident in a skill that you have learned or section of knowledge that you have covered.

So that you are clear about exactly what you need further help with, you need to reflect on your learning so that you can identify whether you are ready to move onto the next subject. This will also provide evidence for Personal, Learning and Thinking Skills.

l

l

l

l

l

l

l

l

l

Reflect on your learningStep 1 – Review your learning

What didn’t I understand or found difficult to do?

Step 2 – Take action

I need to set extra time aside to go over my work again.

I will ask my tutor or teacher for help.

Step 3 – Review again

Have my knowledge and skills improved since Step 1?

Am I more confident with the unit?

Am I ready to move on?

Self-assessment questions

Under each of the following headings try to ask yourself three or more questions. The questions must be your choice, not your tutor’s/teacher’s/practitioner’s or your friend’s, otherwise you will not be reviewing your own learning and experiences.

The questions could be based on a practical or theory part of the unit, as these examples show.

1 Did I manage to master the practical skills to carry out a hair styling treatment?

2 What could I improve on?

3 Where shall I look for help?

To each of the questions, you should also provide an answer, otherwise you will not be able to move on. If you can’t answer them straightaway you will need to find out, then act on the answers and review again.

Unit 3 questionsTrends and influences

1.

2.

3.

Healthy and safe working practice

1.

2.

3.

Anatomy and Physiology

1.

2.

3.


1.

2.

3.


1.

2.

3.


1.

2.

3.

Documents

VTCT Hair and Beauty Studies: Level 1 Foundation Diploma Student Book Unit 3