Washing Machines - Troubleshooting Direct Drive Clothes Washers

Washing machine fill hose, stainless

steel, 5 ft. with washers

Inglis, Whirlpool drive block - direct

drive

Motor - 2 Speed 2 Speed Motor used on many Whirlpool/Kenmore brands

direct drive clothes

Direct drive washer - won't spin service aid....

Quick tips....Slow or no spin....

1. Lid open.

2. Lid switch defective. ( Very Common problem )

3. Lid switch disconnect plug open/burnt.

4. Clothes between basket and outer tank.

5. Lint filter caught between the wash basket and outer holding tank.

6. Wiring harness.

7. Bad motor capacitor ( How to check )

8. Weak clutch.

9. Timer switches. ( possible not allowing the pause required for the transmission to set up to spin )

10. Motor.

11. Cam driver on basket drive broken or basket drive weak.

12. Spin tube.

washers.

3 Speed Motor used on many Whirlpool/Kenmore Brands

direct drive clothes washers.

Motor drive coupler

13. Notches in drive block worn out and not engaging basket drive shaft.

14. Broken motor coupling. See Replacing Motor Coupler Page

15. Read a bit on how the washer works as well.

If your washer will not spin...first thing is to consider if washer is RUNNING and not spinning or NOT RUNNING and not spinning. If the washer is NOT running ( or working intermittently ) check lid switch for continuity. Broken lid switch arm and the lid switch probe should be checked as well. Something NEW to check for when looking at that lid switch. Always a good idea to check for clothing between the tanks as well. Make sure nothing has gone through one of the inner basket holes and is now scrapping or

jamming the tub from moving, such items may be a nail, pin, bra under wire.

Read a bit on how the washer works as well.

If washer IS running, remove power and remove cabinet. Use a piece of insulated wire to by-pass the lid switch wires, turn the

timer to spin and pull out the knob, push the knob back in and pull it out again. Watch for the clutch drum to turn ( brown section in

picture A ). If it is turning but the inner wash tub is not, then more often than not you have a worn clutch lining or a weak spin spring,

also the brake may have seized up. If the clutch drum is not turning and washer is not spinning, often the failure is in the

transmission gear box. ( see picture B ).

Common direct drive lid switch

You may have to get the gear-case out. Then take a look at that tan colored part in the middle of this picture.

Part Number:

Model Number:

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If the 2 drive "fingers" are broken off, the clutch can't dis-engage the brake and this means no spin.

Drive block may be worn out. This sometimes is accompanied by some strange noises as well, but a worn drive block will also stop the spin from working. You will need to remove the agitator to see

the drive block.

This is a link on how to access the clutch - transmission.

*Some* washers have a lint filter ( #12 ) attached to the underneath part of the inner wash basket. If this breaks and starts to fall off,

the filter can jam the wash basket from spinning.

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*This is the same procedure for checking and air conditioner, refrigerator, washing machine capacitor as well*

With the microwave unplugged, use a metal ( not the shiny chrome type ) screw driver with a insulated handle to short

across ( touch both at the same time ) the terminals of the high voltage capacitor to discharge it.

This is a common way to do this....

If the wire terminals and wires are coated ( not bare metal) you can use a pair of needle nose pliers with insulated handles to

short/discharge across the capacitor.

Set your needle meter to an OHM scale, Example: Rx1

Touch your leads together and 0 ( zero ) out your meter with the adjustment wheel. With wires off of the capacitor ( write down where they go first! )...touch the cap terminals ( red lead on left and black lead on right )...the needle should move away from the infinity ( probably left side ) and move slightly ( towards the right side ) and go back to infinity...reverse leads and ( red lead on right side and black lead on the left side ) on the cap and the needle should move away from infinity even further and then go back to infinity = a good cap. ( note - some caps have a built in resistor that you may read ) ( refresh page will start the animate picture again)

Animated picture help compliments of Danone Web Design

If the meter needle goes all the way over to the right side and stays there = a shorted capacitor. ( refresh page will start the animate

picture again)

Animated picture help compliments of Danone Web Design

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1. Check or replace lid switch

2. Remove the cabinet

3. Replace the cabinet

4. Replace or service pump

5. Replace or check motor coupling

6. Replace or check motor

7. Remove inner basket

8. Replacing motor switch

9. Slide show on "How to access" the cabinet on a direct drive washer

Direct drive coupling used between the motor and the

transmission on direct drive model Whirlpool/Kenmore washing

machines. The coupling is the newly redesigned in. triangular in. model that is more robust than the

older round style

Inglis, Whirlpool, Kenmore Direct drive washers - How to take apart:

Disconnect power first 1. Remove the cabinet. This is the first repair procedure on this type machine. You must be able to disassemble and put the washer together in order to accomplish repairs. Begin by removing the 2 screws in the control console. Picture. Some screws are now hidden behind plastic covers. Picture. On some newer style washers the consol screws are now on the back of the consol. Picture. Pull forward and up on the console and you can hinge it open and hanging from the hinges. Using the flat blade screwdriver remove the two brass colored clips that hold the cabinet to the rear of the washer. Picture. Unplug the wires leading to the lid switch. Picture. Pull the cabinet toward you and tilt it. It will disconnect from the base of the washer and come completely off. Picture. You are now where you can make repairs on about any component in the washer.

Disconnect power first 2. Replace the cabinet. Look at the base of

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Inglis, Whirlpool drive block - direct

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the washer on the sides. You will see two extrusions or metal tabs that mate with slots in the bottom of the cabinet. The cabinet has a lip on the bottom front that goes under the bottom frame of the washer. Picture. Place the lip under the base, let the cabinet down to mate to the extrusions on the base. Line the back up to the cabinet and replace the brass colored clips that hold the back of the washer to the cabinet. Plug the lid switch back in. Put console back in place and install the screws holding console.

Disconnect power first 3. Check or change the lid switch. Unplug the washer. Check the actuator on the lid that operates the lid switch to see if broken. Open the console of the washer. After removing the screws, the console will lift up and hinge back. Disconnect the plug going to the lid switch. Picture. Check the lid switch [lid closed] with an ohm meter from the wire plug-in leading to the switch. If no continuity, replace the lid switch. You will need to remove the cabinet to replace the switch. There are only a couple screws holding the lid switch assembly and a ground wire connection to the cabinet. Reassemble the washer and test the operation.

Unplug washer, remove the two consol screws and tilt console back, remove cabinet clips, unlock lid switch block and then remove the cabinet. Remove the lid switch mounting screws, disconnect ground wire and remove lid switch assembly. Compare old switch to the new one. If the plastic sleeve of the new switch is longer, break off at the score mark. Pull wire partially out of sleeve before shortening sleeve. If the sleeve had to be shortened, the wires must be looped to take up the excess wire. Use supplied wire tie from the new kit. Install new switch assembly. New lid switch pictures are here.

Disconnect power first 4. Pump service. In order to service the

Motor - 2 Speed 2 Speed Motor used on many

Whirlpool/Kenmore brands direct drive

clothes washers.

3 Speed Motor used on many

Whirlpool/Kenmore Brands direct drive

clothes washers.

pump, remove the cabinet. The pump is located on the end of the motor shaft. Remove the 2 thumb clips holding the pump to the motor, pry off clips with a flat screwdriver. Picture Place a container under pump to catch water and remove the clamps from hoses. The drain pump normally will pull off of the motor shaft, pull straight out on the pump towards you. The pump sometimes will become "frozen" to the motor shaft as the motor shaft can rust. You may have to break the old pump off the motor shaft if it has frozen itself onto the shaft, a large straight screw driver and a hammer can do this. I usually split the pump open using the flat screwdriver, use caution when hitting the screwdriver with the hammer so you do not drive the screwdriver through the pump and damage the motor. If the motor shaft is rusted, you should sand and clean up the shaft before installing the new pump. Change hoses to the new pump. Line the shaft of the motor up with the impeller slot on the pump, and push the new pump on the motor shaft. Replace thumb clamps and Replace the cabinet. Check your repair.

Line up the slots on the motor shaft and center of the pump. Picture.

Disconnect power first 5. Motor coupling. 6. Motor replacement. The motor to transmission coupling replacement is a common repair on this style washer. Start by removing the cabinet. Remove the pump from the motor shaft, this is not needed if just replacing the motor coupler. You may be able to shift the motor & pump off to one side. If you are replacing the motor = the pump must come off. It is not necessary to take the hoses loose. Tie the pump out of the way after getting it off the motor shaft, if needed. Unplug the motor wire harness. Picture. Unscrew the two 5/16 sheet metal screw holding the mounting clamps to the motor. Release the thumb clamps and take motor loose from transmission. You have reached the point where you can replace the three pieces of the motor coupling. Picture. Picture. Picture. Look at the old pieces to see how to assemble the new, Here is a picture pointing them out. Picture Place either of the two new white couplings on the transmission shaft with the teeth facing toward the motor. Use an 1/2"socket as a press, place it over the

Common direct drive lid switch

center of the coupling and lightly tap it onto the shaft, taking care not to damage the three little prongs. Place the black rubber union over the prongs on the coupling you just installed. Now, tap the other coupling onto the rear shaft of the motor, prongs facing back toward transmission. The motor can now be re-installed, take care to line up the three prongs with the remaining holes in the union. This can be helped by rotating the motor shaft slightly while holding it up to the coupling. Also, remember that the four rubber caps on the motor mount must match up with the four indents on the frame. Once the coupling is engaged, apply the clips & screws to the motor. Hook up the wires, install the pump and you're finished. Hook thumb clamps, replace the two screws. Put pump back on motor shaft and hook thumb clamps. Replace the cabinet and check your repair.

If you need a little more motor help, please that page.

Disconnect power first 7. Remove the basket. To remove the inner basket you will need a spanner tool to remove the inner basket, remove the agitator, remove the tank cover, remove the nut and lift up of the inner basket. You may be able to get away with using a straight screw driver and a hammer. Once the tub nut is off, sometimes the tub gets frozen to the center hub. If the tub will not lift out, sometimes putting one foot inside of the tub and stomping down will break it free. Two people, one on each side can also lift up and push down at the same time, may also break the inner basket free.

Disconnect power first. Unplug washer, remove the cabinet, remove the pump, disconnect motor harness. See fig one. Disconnect 2 terminal plug ( 3 speed motors only ). remove the motor start switch. See fig one. Remove start switch by removing mounting screw, see fig one. Install new switch, using original

mounting screw. The switch lever must be on top of actuator sleeve inside the motor. See fig two. Connect the motor wires to the start switch. See fig three. Connect harness plugs ( 3 speed only ). Connect motor harness. Install the pump, install the cabinet. Plug in washer and test.


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Washer Magic washing machine cleaner. Removes lime scale, soap scum, iron and mineral stains

Replacement 10 ft fill hose for either hot or cold water

inlet hose.

Direct Drive Washers - Inglis, Whirlpool, some Kenmore....

Having trouble knowing which Whirlpool, Inglis or Kenmore washer you have, please pull out your washer a little and look at the back panel to see which style of washer you have...then see picture here, the picture will help you find out if you have a belt

drive or a direct drive.

Always remember Electricity is dangerous and should be treated with respect.

Please pick a topic by Make and or problem...hope you find this helpful :-)

1. Agitation problems and agitator dog repair aid info

2. Automatic dispenser information

3. Common problems with Inglis, Whirlpool, Kenmore direct drive style of washers

4. Diagnostic Direct Drive washer chart from American appliance

5. How a washer works, good to read this first

6. Help for storing an appliance

Universal Stainless Steel Water Fill Hose

Universal type 6 ft. drain hose

Direct drive coupling used

between the motor and the

transmission on direct drive models

7. How does the agitator come off my washer ??

8. How to prevent socks from getting into your pump

9. Ohm test a common direct drive motor

10. How to by-pass a lid switch for testing the washer

11. Basic information: Inglis, Whirlpool, Kenmore Direct drive washers

12. Inglis, Whirlpool, Kenmore Direct drive washers - How to take apart - Cabinet off, cabinet on, checking or replacing a lid switch, replace the pump, replace motor coupling or motor.

13. Inglis, Whirlpool and Kenmore direct drive washer- useful parts breakdowns

14. Important disclaimer

15. My clothes have a whiting on them that looks like lint.

16. My washer has a funky odor

17. Noises

18. Ohm meter testing a motor capacitor

19. Slow water fills

20. The wash tubs on my direct drive washer are leaning to the right...why?

21. Timer stalls or missing cycles

22. Timer will not advance

23. Tips on changing a common washer fill valve

24. To learn more about washing machines, click here

25. Washer Basics: Filling with water

Glisten Cleaner and Deodorizer works

GREAT on cleaning up the front load washers as well!!

Universal Stainless Steel Water Fill Hose

26. Washer leaks water

27. Washer moves around to much

28. Washer will not spin

29. Washer sample wiring diagrams

30. Washer spins and agitates at the same time

31. Washer belts: If your belt on any washer looks like these, replace the belt(s).

32. Washer runs but wont agitate or spin

33. Washer won't run, agitate or spin

34. What is that black power powder or filings under my washer??

Inglis, Whirlpool, Kenmore Direct drive washers: This machine is a forward/reversing style of washer. The motor drives one

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direction to wash, stops, reverses and goes the other direction to spin and pump. The timer is responsible for cycling the motor back and forth. As the "direct drive" name indicates, there is no belt on this machine, but it has a coupler between the motor and the gear box. Most ( not all ) direct drive washers are a neutral drain washer, means the timer allows the washer to pump out the water and then the timer pauses ( stops ) the washer so the neutral drive in the gearbox can reset for spinning, and when the timer allows the washer to start back up again the pumping will continue and spinning will occur. You should be able to see the pauses on the washer wiring diagram flow chart.

Common problems with Inglis, Whirlpool, Kenmore style of washers: disconnect power first

Washer/motor runs but wont agitate or spin...this is often a broken motor coupler. See how to take apart info.

Leaks water...check the pump first. The fill valve and hoses may be the next step. See how to take apart info. With the use of plastic drain hoses on many machines today, this has become a common leak trouble maker. The drain hose can rub the wall or a pipe and this will rub a hole in the drain hose.

Washer has trouble agitating... Check the agitator dogs inside the top of the agitator, they are bad for wearing out, sometimes the agitator may only agitate one way when the dogs are worn out. This is an instruction sheet that came with the last parts I ordered for a Whirlpool/Inglis style direct drive washer agitator. If you need to replace your agitator dogs, please see this link for some repair aid.

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Washer spins and agitates at the same time...Unfortunately this is often a bad gear box transmission.

Gearcase for direct drive washer

Washer wont run or spin...check the lid switch and lid switch wires first, Picture. Make sure the lid switch "clicks" and you should test it with a ohm meter. The timer is suppose to allow a "pause" before the machine can switch into pump and spin. If the timer misses this pause, the washer may not spin = new timer time. For some "how to test" for a no spin problem, please see here. Burnt wire ( esp at the motor ) can stop the washer from running. The start capacitor can prevent the motor from running, the start capacitor can be beside the motor, or up in the consol area. How to ohm meter test a capacitor.

Bad cord or house fuse, try a radio in the washer power outlet to make sure it is live.

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Timer wont advance... Locate the 2 small black wires going to the timer motor, check these with the washer running for 120 volts. Power there and the timer won't advance = a bad timer.

Missing cycles or timer stalls in middle of cycle...often this is a timer contact problem, remove power, access the timer and remove metal or plastic cover. Look for blackened or burnt contacts. If the timer contacts are pitted black or burnt, replace the timer. If you have to "wiggle" the timer knob to make the washer work, this is another timer problem, new timer time. New picture of a timer with a burnt contact is here. If your timer is moving part way through the cycle and then is stopping in certain parts, this link here may help you out.

Inglis, Whirlpool, Kenmore Direct drive washers: - Noises

Sometimes something works it's way into the pump assembly, this will make a clicking or scraping noise. When the motor drive coupler starts to wear down, the washer may also become noisy. Loose tub nut and drive block will be noisy in the spin only. See how to take apart info.

Inglis, Whirlpool and Kenmore direct drive washer- useful parts breakdowns.

One the base.....

Two the clutch.....

Three the tub.....

Four the top.....

Five the brake assembly.....

Six the transmission/gearbox.....

IMPORTANT DISCLAIMER: The Author of this web site assumes no responsibility for inconveniences or damages resulting from use of the information he supplies. The consumer or reader is individually responsible for his or her use of the information supplied and uses this information at their own risk. The author of this site has no liability for errors, omissions, or any defects whatsoever in the information or instructions, or for any damage or injury resulting from the utilization of said information or instructions....


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Whirlpool ( many Kenmore ) lid switches....

....are failing in a strange way. The switch can be ohmed and will check ok, switch will make a "click" noise if you push a

screwdriver down the hole to activate it, the switch body is not cracked or broken....but the switch is BAD!!

The internal workings of the switch has lost it's "value" and has

weakened....means the switch must be pushed all the way down to activate it rather than being pushed about 1/2 down to activate the switch normally. When the washer lid is closed, the lid probe goes

down through the hole but can no longer push far enough to activate the switch. I have changed about many of these in the last

year for this problem.

Related links:

~ Accessing the lid switch on a direct drive washer

~ How to by-pass a lid switch for testing the washer


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They offer a full line of Range

Hoods, Ranges, Refrigerators, Washers and

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Under wires from braziers ( bra's ).....

A common problem with noises from washing machines and dryers has been the under wire that may come out of a bra. In the washer

they can get stuck in one of the inner basket holes and make a scrapping noise, they can actually make there way into the pump

and jam the pump, or make a terrible noise when the pump is running. Grab a flash light and have a peek inside the washer for this. Front load washers seem very common to this happen! In

dryers, they can get caught in one of the drum seals and make a scrapping noise, ( remove power, grab a flash light and have a peek

inside through the door opening ) or the wire can actually pass through one of the heating duct holes at the back of the drum and touch something electrical like the heating element, thermostats. If

the bra is showing signs of fraying, may be best not to wash it in the washing machine, replace the bra.

What an under wire looks like.....

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A tip from an Appliance Repair Aid visitor Pam....

Here is an additional tip for those who wash under-wire bras. Placing the bra in a garment bag and latching the back not only prevents

damage to appliances, but provides the bra with longer life. It makes me wonder, though, if those reading this prefer to have their women change their bras more frequently, keep it a secret.just remember to replace it for her (take a bra in a concealed brown bag, or at least take the size, style, and brand to ensure a proper fit). You get to pick

it out, look at lots of bras, you get to surprise her, and she gets to wear a new bra. You both win!

Thank you for the tips Pam!! :-)


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reserved.

General washer information....

Always remember Electricity is dangerous and should be treated with respect.

Please pick a topic by problem...hope you find this helpful :-)

1. Can my rubber fill hoses ever burst?

2. How a washer works, good to read this first

3. How does the agitator come off my washer?

4. Help for storing an appliance

5. Important disclaimer

6. My washing machine is over filling and the water goes up

and over the top and onto the floor

7. My clothes have a whiting on them that looks like lint

8. My washer slowly fills with water even will I am not using it, or my washer drips water inside the washer all the time...

Do you think a repair manual

would help you?

9. My washer has a funky odor

10. Noise tip for washers and dryers

11. Washer basic - filling with water "no fill" problems solvers

12. Washer basics - slow fill

13. Washer sample wiring diagrams

14. Washer belts: If your belt on any washer looks like this, replace the belt(s)

15. Washer basic - how the water level control works

Washer Basics: Filling with water:

The water fill valve - The water fill valve is a mechanical and electrical part, the coils on the valve need electricity to mechanically open the valve to allow the water to flow into the washer....myth....the washer pumps water into itself...no, it does not. The fill valve opens and the house water pressure pushes the water into the washing machine.

No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve has two coils, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. It is possible that one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling ability. If the cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and during warm fill you will get hot water only and during a cold fill you will get no water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still have cold water fill, cold water only on a warm setting and no water on a hot fill setting. You can No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve has two coils, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. It is possible that one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling ability. If the cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and during warm fill you will get hot water only and during a cold fill you will get no water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still have cold water fill, cold water only on a warm setting and no water on a hot fill setting. You can test a fill valve live for 120 volts, power to a fill valve coil and no fill = a bad fill valve. You can also test the coils for continuity, no continuity = a bad fill valve. Some Maytag washers have a fuse in the fill valve circuit, if this fuse let go the washer will not fill. Fill valves can also from time to time stick open and not stop filling. If you have to shut off the fill valves to stop the water from filling in the washer, you have a bad fill valve and you will have to replace it.

Water level controls - The water level control is also know as a pressure switch, this is where you set the water level ( small - medium - large ). The water level control is responsible to shut off the power to the fill valve and direct that power to the timer so the washing machine can start up. The WLC has electrical contacts in it that sends power to the fill valve and when the WLC is satisfied the water level is correct the electrical contacts open power to the fill valve and send the power to the timer and the washer starts. Picture of this here. How the water level control knows when it is time to shut the water off is, a air tight hose runs from the outer washer tank to the water level control. As the water fills the outer tank air is pushed up the hose, depending on which setting you have made ( small- medium - large ) is takes a certain amount of this pressure to make the WLC cycle over and shut off the water and send this power to the timer. If this hose develops a leak or a pin hole the washer can over fill as the WLC may not be able to shut the water off. The water level control can also break down and allow the washer to over fill as well.

Testing a water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a Testing a water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter. Testing a water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter. Testing a water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter.

A couple of tips from readers (Thankx!! ):

~ If you have a loose hose on the water level control or tank end, use a plastic wire tie to help hold the hose tighter and make a tight fit.

~ The water level tube (tube that runs from the square box), access panel on the outer drum where the bleach tube also ends) from the pressure sensor switch (front panel) can become clogged. Or the two holes from the outer tub into this square box panel on the outside of the outer tub can become clogged. Either clog, I am told by my help repair guy can cause the sensor to think that there is still too much water in the tub and so will not allow motor to activate spin.

~ If the water level control contact is bad, it may also stop the filling ok, but not tell the washer to start agitating.

Slow fill - A fill valve has screens built into it to prevent sediment from entering the fill valve. Sometimes these screens can get plugged and will need to be cleaned out with a old tooth brush. Just shut off the water, remove the hot and cold fill hoses and clean out the screens on the entrance of the fill valve. When ever possible, you should try not to remove the screens from inside the fill valve entrance. The screens are in

the entrance of the fill valve. If the screens are just too clogged or if you have removed them, install new screen-washers in the fill hose end to prevent junk from getting inside the fill

valve. If all attempts to clean the fill valve has not helped the fill pressure. Sometimes the fill valve can be damaged and this is why it won't fill as fast as it used to, you may have to replace the fill valve.

Water will still fill in my washer all the time.....My washer slowly fills with water even will I am not using it, or my washer drips water inside the washer all the time... This is often, if not all the time, a faulty fill valve, the fill valve has mechanically stuck open and is not fully shutting off when not the washer is not in use. This normally will become worse and could flood over the top of the washer = big mess .... replace the fill valve. The fill valve is the part the hot and cold water hoses are attached to.

How does the agitator come off my washer?? There are many different styles of washers and agitators. I have some picture of a few common makes and the agitators and description on how they come off. Please remember that the water, soap and chemicals sometimes "freezes" the agitator on the washer shaft or hub and makes if very difficult to remove it. Service technicians often have a special tool to help remove "stuck" on agitators.

GE older style washer agitator

GE new style washer agitator

Whirlpool - Inglis - ( some) Kenmore style washer agitators

Washer Floor Tray - Fits most standard,

large, and extra-large washers.

Optional floor drain connection

included. Tray dimensions: Inner dimension - 27" x

30" (Outer dimension - 30" x

32") x 2" deep

Replacement 5 ft fill hose for both

hot and cold water inlet hoses.

Maytag Dependable Care style washer agitator

Maytag Atlantis - Norge - Performa by Maytag style washer agitator

Frigidaire - White Westinghouse style washer agitators

Amana style washer agitator

GE old style washer.....Remove agitator cap by pulling it off and look for a bolt, remove the bolt and pull up hard on the agitator.( not all have a bolt ) ...picture.

GE new style washer.....I use a old dryer belt or rope to help remove the agitator, hook the rope/belt under the lower agitator fins and make the loops to the top, use a board to help "pop" up the agitator, lift up on the side of the board that is sticking out further...picture.

(1) Whirlpool, Inglis, (some) Kenmore washer..... Remove the agitator cap, some caps unscrew and some will just pull off. Look for a bolt and remove the bolt, lift up on the agitator...picture1, picture2.

(2) Whirlpool, Inglis, (some) Kenmore washer.....Remove the agitator cap, some caps unscrew and some will just pull off. Look for a plastic bolt and remove the bolt, the plastic bold will have a square in the middle that the square end of the shaft of an socket extension ( or a very large flat screw driver ) will fit into the square hole to unscrew the plastic nut off...remove the upper 1/2 of the agitator....remove the bolt holding down the bottom 1/2 of the agitator, lift up on the agitator.

Universal type 6 ft. drain hose

Universal Stainless Steel Water Fill

Hose

Maytag Dependable care washer.....Locate a 1/4 inch screw on the side of the agitator, ( about 3/4 of the way down) remove this screw and lift up on the agitator...picture.

Maytag Atlantis, Norge, Performa by Maytag.....Remove the cap and softener dispenser by pulling it off and locate the agitator bolt, remove bolt and lift up on the agitator...picture.

Frigidaire washer.....older style, unscrew the agitator cap and bolt, lift up on the agitator...picture1...picture2

Frigidaire washer new style, remove center cap ( this was difficult to do ) by lifting up really hard on the center tab ( I needed pliers to do this ), locate bolt and remove it and lift up on the agitator...picture.

Amana washer.....The older washers have a bolt under the cap that must be removed to remove the agitator, then grab hold of the agitator and lift up. The newer washer agitator just pulls out, remove cap, if no bolt, just grab hold and lift up hard...picture.

Washer sample wiring diagrams:

Frigidaire newer style washer.....

Inglis, Whirlpool, Kenmore direct drive washer.....

Inglis, Whirlpool, Kenmore belt drive washer.....

GE newer style washer.....

GE older style washer.....

Maytag older washer.....Dependable care

Maytag new style.....Dependable care

Magic Chef, Norge older style washer (with brake solenoid).....

Maytag Atlantis washer.....

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Inner Tub , Transmission , Clutch , Basket Drive - direct drive Whirlpool / Kenmore / Roper / Kitchen Aid washer

If you have ever tried to check out the direct drive washer manufactured by Whirlpool Corp., you found out pretty quickly that you can't hardly do anything until the cabinet is removed. The older Whirlpool Corp. washers with a belt do not have a removable cabinet.

Back of Direct Drive

Back of Belt Drive Washer

While it may sound like a pain to have to remove the cabinet, in reality it is really simple, and it makes getting to the parts a breeze.

All you need is a Phillips screwdriver and a flat blade screwdriver.

First step, of course is to unplug the machine. Then remove the 2 Phillips screws on the bottom of the timer console.

The timer console in hinged in the back. Pull the console forward slightly to clear the hooks on the bottom of the end caps, and roll the console up from the bottom on it's hinges.

Under the console you will see a 3 wire harness that is plugged into the top of the cabinet. Unplug this harness

Using the flat blade screwdriver, pop off the 2 metal clips that are holding the back panel to the top of the cabinet. These clips are sort of "S" shaped, and are located near the left and right edges of the top of the cabinet.

Grasp the cabinet on each side, pull the top of the cabinet towards you to a 45 degree angle. Pull straight back on the cabinet and it will slip right off.

Remove the pump clips and slide the pump off of the shaft

Note: If the pump has been leaking for awhile it will have rusted itself onto the motor shaft. Some can be quite stubborn to get off and will require that you pry them off with a screwdriver. If the pump shaft is very rusted be sure to clean the shaft well. Scrape the rust from the shaft using a screwdriver and then dress it with emery cloth or a fine sandpaper. The new pump should slide on the motor shaft with out any force. If you do not properly clean the shaft and force the pump on the shaft, it will break the pump.

Motor Front Shaft - check pump for leakage and check front bearing in motor for play

Unplug motor harness and capacito if used

Remove screws in motor clips

Pry motor clips loose

Remove motor

Remove Motor mounting plate

Turning the transmission input shaft one direction causes the transmission to agitate, the other direction causes it to turn the clutch causing it to spin.

Remove agitator cap or fabric softener dispenser

Remove bolt holding agitator in.

Remove top tub ring

Remove fill funnel

Remove nut holding inner tub in. right to tighten, left to loosen. Lift tub out. You may have to rock the inner tub to get it to break loose from the drive block. Pushing downward on one side of the top of the tub then the other side will sometimes help break it loose from the drive block

Note : The lint Filter on some washers is located on the bottom of the inner tub Click for a break down

Special Wrench for removing Tub Nut Or you can use a Punch and a hammer. Right to tighten, left to loosen

Tap upwards on the drive block to remove it

Notice that notches in drive block line up with tabs on basket drive tube

Remove 3 transmission bolts

Slide transmission out bottom.

Grasp plastic cam on basket drive and turn while pulling downwards

Basket drive components

Accessing clutch

Remove Washer

Removing Clip

Basket drive components

Accessing clutch

New Basket Drive and Clutch Ready to go back in.

To replace the cabinet

l Put the cabinet up to the front edge of the base, open the lid so you can see the inside bottom of the cabinet.

l Tilt the cabinet to a 45 degree angle and slip the bottom front lip of the cabinet under the front of the base (make sure the console is hinged up).

l Now let the cabinet go down. There are 2 dowels on each side of the base that must match up with slots on the side bottom lips of the cabinet.

l After the cabinet is in place, look at the back and make sure it is lining up properly on one side. Reinstall the "S" bracket on that side.

l Now move to the other side. Line it up properly and reinstall the "S" bracket on that side.l Plug in the harness.l Lower the console, and reinstall the screws.

Back of cabinet locks into base

Side of cabinet NOT locked in Side of cabinet properly locked in.

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