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Weaving Together Weaving Together Multi-Cultural Food SystemsMulti-Cultural Food Systems
Success Stories from the
Working Landscapes of the
Colorado Plateau
Restoring & Re-Storying
Our Sense of Place & Taste
A Place of Unparalleled Food Diversity:“[These peoples of America are] much inclined
To cultivate the earth and steward the same. They harvest beans, corn, and squashes,Melons and rich sloes of Castile, And grapes in quantity throughout their landscape…They harvest the red wheat and garden fareSuch as lettuce and cabbage, green beans and peas,Cilantro, carrots, turnips, garlic, Onions, artichokes, radishes and cucumbers.They have pleasing herds of turkeysIn abundance and fowl of Castile, too, Beside sheep and cattle and goats.”
~Gaspar Pérez de Villagrá, 1598
A Regional Heritage Undergoing A Regional Heritage Undergoing Dramatic Agricultural RenewalDramatic Agricultural Renewal
-Oldest agricultural history in the U.S.
-Greatest native crop diversity in Americas
north of Tropic of Cancer
-Greatest agro-habitat diversity in one region (sea level to 8500 ft.)
-Exciting restoration of springs, terraces, ak-chin
fields, orchards & food rituals now in process
among at least 10 cultures
-.
Reviving rare livestock breeds Reviving rare livestock breeds and ranching traditionsand ranching traditions
• Key sites for revival of heritage turkeys
• Oldest sheep breed in U.S. (Navajo-Churro) SUBJECT OF Slow Food’s first Presidia revitalization
• Oldest cattle breed (Criollo Corriente) now recovered
• Key stage for conservation collaborations among ranchers and conservation biologists
Pressures Mount, Pressures Mount, Perils Persist!Perils Persist!
Endangerment
Since WWII, Sunbelt has had most rapid urbanization/conversion of working landscapes in American history
Fragmentation of ranch- and farmlands
Usurpment of water by cities
60% of native crop varieties lost from North America,1492-2002.
Loss of traditional knowledge about food biodiversity =
• > avg. loss of farmers• breaking of ancient traditions
Farm Economies, US SouthwestFarm Economies, US Southwest
State Arizona Colorado New
Mexico
Utah
Number of farms
7,500 29,000 15,200 15,500
Avg. farm size (acres)
4,359 1,154 3,259 848
Prime ag acres converted/developed
17,100 10,100 3,600
17,800
Health consequences of losing Health consequences of losing
land access & food biodiversityland access & food biodiversity
Impacts Loss of many protective
phytochemicals (eg., capsaicin, inulins) in traditional diet that sustained health
Loss of freshness, diversity and equitable access to safe food
Highest incidence of adult-onset diabetes in world, major cause of death and disability
Nutrient-depleted convenience foods Nutrient-depleted convenience foods replaced traditional crops and wild foodsreplaced traditional crops and wild foods
Government surplus commodity “hand-outs” were richer in fat & sugar, poorer in minerals & protein than native crops they replaced
Hand-outs served as disincentives for “growing your own,” resulting in less fresh, vitamin-rich vegetables
Use of wild foods from gardens declined as well
Reversing the Downward SpiralReversing the Downward Spiral
SAVING THE PIECES!
Revitalization of uniquely American food resources and the traditional cultural knowledge associated connected with these foods.
Rescuing, documenting, restoring: Native American and Hispanic
vegetable crops Regionally-adapted heirloom grains Spanish-introduced fruit and nut
trees Wild native plant foods Regionally-adapted livestock
breeds Ranching traditions
Sowing Solar-Powered Sowing Solar-Powered Sustainable AgricultureSustainable Agriculture
Breaking addictions to fossil fuel, returning to solar-powered strategies on the land
Breaking addictions to irrigation water imported from other watersheds or geological strata
Rebuilding distribution networks that combine local with fairly-traded extra-local
Combining traditional knowledge with agro-ecological science
Re-weaving the Re-weaving the Regional Food Network Regional Food Network
in the Southwestin the Southwest• Southwest Community Food and Agriculture
Outpost• Traditional Native American Farmers Association• Southwest Direct Marketing Network• Northern Arizona Food and Agriculture Council’s
Canyon Country Fresh Network• Quivira Coalition• Native Seeds/SEARCH• Community Food Connections• Saving the Wide Open Spaces Forum • Slow Food Southwest Convivia (8)
Shared Goals:Shared Goals:CulturalCultural
Rescuing traditional agro-ecological knowledge
Re-discovering the region’s culinary history
Sustaining communities of farmers, ranchers and foragers
Reviving traditional food festivals, ceremonies, & seed exchanges
Shared Goals:Shared Goals:Health & NutritionHealth & Nutrition
Reviving wild foods that once prevented diabetes: prickly pear, chia, mesquite, acorns, Navajo tea
Reviving traditional crops that prevented diabetes: tepary and lima beans, Jerusalem artichokes, cultivated cacti and agaves
Introducing fresh greens year-round
Fostering local processing w/o sugar and fat
Designating National Heritage AreasDesignating National Heritage AreasDesignating American Viticultural AreasDesignating American Viticultural Areas
Pioneering Rural Planning DistrictsPioneering Rural Planning DistrictsPromoting County or Watershed-Wide Protection Promoting County or Watershed-Wide Protection
PlansPlans
Making Sure That Working Making Sure That Working Landscapes Aren’t SquashedLandscapes Aren’t Squashed
Making the most enduring rural Making the most enduring rural traditions economically & traditions economically & ecologically viable again:ecologically viable again:
100s of Velarde NM grassroots entrepeneurs100s of Velarde NM grassroots entrepeneurs
Linking a sense of place Linking a sense of place to a sense of tasteto a sense of taste
to keep rural communities viable to keep rural communities viable
Linking the identities of consumers & Linking the identities of consumers & producers as “co-producersproducers as “co-producers””
Re-storying Success:Re-storying Success:Navajo-Churro SheepNavajo-Churro Sheep
Oldest extant sheep breed in North America
Historic neglect & intentional flock reductions imperiled its’ survival—less than 5,000 left by 1970
Recent revival thanks to direct marketing of wool and lamb by Dine Be’iina, Navajo Churro Sheep Association, Black Mesa Weavers Guild, and Canyon Country Fresh.
First Slow Food USA Presidia initiated, May 2005
Survey shows consumer support for Survey shows consumer support for place-based heritage foodsplace-based heritage foods
57% of those likely to purchase traditional, local foods are willing to pay 10% more for them.
Survey conducted March 2005 by the Social Research Laboratory at NAU.
Likelihood of Purchasing Traditional Arizona Food
0% 10% 20% 30% 40%
Don't know
Somewhat unlikely
Somewhat likely
Very likely
The key to place-The key to place-based niche-based niche-marketing:marketing:
Telling the stories of Telling the stories of colorful foods with colorful foods with unique flavors and unique flavors and
their role in our culture their role in our culture and destiny.and destiny.
Current Needs in RegionCurrent Needs in Region
Building multi-cultural partnerships to ensure equity and continuity in working landscapes
Assessing current disincentives to landscape-level conservation & viability of rural communities
Attracting diversified funding support to a region with few
economic resources (incl. foundations)
Building “food system” management capacity at the local and regional levels
Encouraging residents to fully tell their stories of the land