Backpacking Gear List

Clothing Y N Equipment Y N

Rain Gear- 2 piece rain suit preferred. Bag of BagsBandanas- 2 or more. PocketknifeFleece Jacket (preferred) or Hoodie Compass – 2 per crewNylon Zip Off Trek Pants (2pr) Individual First Aid KitHiking Boots Flashlight/HeadlampLong Underwear pants and top. Small roll of duct tapeT shirts (3) Not Cotton Velcro StripsCamp Shoes Sewing Kit – 1 per crewUnderwear (3 pair) Camp Soap – 1 per crewWool Hiking Socks (3 pair) Small SunscreenLiner Socks (2-3 pair) Survival KitSleep clothes Plastic Trowel – 1 per crewKnit Stocking Cap Toilet PaperGloves Smellables BagHat Personal HygieneShelter Tooth BrushTent – preferably 2 man Tooth PasteGround Cloth Dental FlossPack Cover PowderSleeping Bag Lip Balm (Burt’s Bees)Sleeping Pad Personal MedicationsMake sure you have your tent poles and stakesBefore you leave home!! Hairbrush/Comb (optional)Optional Unscented Baby Wipes (optional)CameraTowel

Utensils/WaterCup and Small Plate or BowlSporkWater Containers

Explanation of Gear ChoicesClothing

Rain Gear-A separate rain jacket and rain pants are preferred because they can be used as a light jacket and an extra pair of pants if conditions turn cold and/or wet. A poncho will protect your upper body, but will allow water to run down your legs. For the Philmont crew – PSR discourages the use of ponchos.

Bandanas - Are great for keeping sweat out of your eyes. Can also be used in first aid and as a towel. Fleece Jacket - Wicks sweat away from your body, also light weight. A non-cotton hoodie also works well. Nylon Zipoff Trek Pants – Nylon, because it wicks sweat away from your body and doesn’t absorb moisture. Zip off

alleviates the need for an extra pair of shorts thus saving weight. It’s also easier to change into after you get hot. Hiking Boots – Lace up boots that go above your ankles. Water proof (Gore Tex) is preferable. Break new boots in

by wearing them before you hike. Hiking in new boots = blisters. Long Underwear Top and Bottoms – Polypropylene or silk is best. No Cotton. T shirts –3 t-shirts total. 2 t-shirts to alternate hiking in and 1 to sleep in. No Cotton – Use polyester blend. Camp Shoes – Wear in the evening at camp. Water shoes work great. Underwear – Non cotton. Bring 3 pairs. 2 pair to alternate hiking in. 1 pair to sleep in. Wool Socks – Use wool or Smart Wool. Socks made for hiking are padded in the toe and foot. Wool socks lessen

the likelihood of blisters. 2 pair to alternate while hiking, 1 pair to sleep in. Sold at Walmart, Summit, Backwoods, etc…

Liner Socks – To be worn under wool socks. Nylon or polypropylene work best. Dress socks will work but have a tendency to work down while hiking. Liner socks can be purchased where wool hiking socks are sold.

Sleep Clothes – Shorts and t-shirt. Don’t wear the same clothes to bed that you wore during the day or while eating.

Knit Stocking Cap – In cold weather, bring one to sleep in and one to wear during the day. Pack all clothing in Ziploc bags. Never wear 100% Cotton while hiking or backpacking!!!

Shelter

Tent – 2 man backpacking tent. Preferably 3 to 4 season, as light as you can afford. 2 people per tent. 1 person carries the poles and stakes; the other person carries the tent body and rain fly.

Ground Cloth – To be used under the tent to help keep out moisture. A light sheet of plastic will work or buy the foot print for the tent from the manufacturer.

Pack Cover - A pack cover is used to keep your pack dry if it is raining as you hike and to cover your pack at night to keep it dry from rain or dew. Generic covers can be purchased from Walmart. Backpack manufacturers sell caovers specifically for their packs. Trash bags work in a pinch but tear easily.

Sleeping Bag – A bag rated at 20 degrees works well for most backpacking trips. Manmade filler will still keep you warm if it gets wet, but is heavier, bulkier and cheaper than down. Down filler is lighter, more compactible, and more expensive than manmade fillers and it is worthless when it gets wet. Buy as light a bag as you can afford.

Pack sleeping bag in a trash bag. Sleeping Pad – Closed foam blue pad is the least expensive and light. Inflatable pads are better for adults. Buy as

light as you can afford.

Optional Towel – Lightweight synthetic chamois. No more opportunity than you have to shower when backpacking, it’s

about as beneficial to use a bandana.

Equipment Bag of Bags – Pack a variety of Ziploc bags with a trash bag or two. Individual First Aid Kit – Include a variety of bandages, moleskin, small tube of polysporin. Carry in a Ziploc or

waterproof pouch. Flashlight/Headlamp – make sure you have fresh batteries before you leave home. Bring spare batteries. Duct Tape/Velcro Strips – Good for a variety of emergency repairs - especially keeping blown out boots together. Survival Kit - Aluminum Foil, Beef Bullion Cubes, Candle, Cord, Fishing line w/hook, Fire starters, matches, tea. Toilet Paper – 2 to 3 rolls per crew, with the cardboard tube removed to cut down on weight and to make it take

up less room. Smellables Bag – Large Ziploc, or water resistant/proof ditty bag. To be put in the bear bag at night. Must be large

enough to hold all your smellables, including mess kit. A with everything, label it.

Personal Hygiene Due to bear safety procedures, deodorant, perfume and makeup are strictly prohibited. Powder – Anti Monkey Butt Powder, Goldbond Powder, etc… To be used between the thighs and butt cheeks to

prevent chafing. Lip Balm – Odorless, and with sunscreen. Burt’s Bees works well.

Utensils Cup and Bowl – a small cup and bowl are all you need to eat with. I personally prefer the inexpensive, Tupperware

type, sealable bowls to eat out of. A small plastic cup works great. Spork – Combination of a fork and spoon. Available at Walmart. Water Containers – To avoid dehydration while backpacking, a 2 or 3 liter water bladder in your pack with a bite

tube near your mouth works best. Water is always easily available. For our Philmont Crew these are required. Two, 1 liter water bottles (Nalgenes) are also a necessity. Make the water bottles identifiable so that one can have Gatorade or Crystal Light put in it and the other holds only water. The bottle with the smellables in it will have to go in the bear bag.

Remember when packing: Ounces = Pounds = Pain!

You should carry no more than 20% of your body weight. For a 130-pound person, that’s 23 – 33 pounds. Bring the lightest items you find/afford. You will also be carrying crew gear and food (approx. 5 pounds) so plan your backpack weight accordingly. Weigh your pack on your bathroom scales. Make sure you are carrying as much water as you will be carrying on the trail.

There is not much difference in the amount of gear you will carry on a weekend trip as a 10 day trip.

Backcountry Bathroom Breaks – Pooping in the Woods

Making the transition from car camping to wilderness camping and backpacking leaves the question about bathrooms… Believe it or not you are going to have to go in the woods, you are going to have to dig a hole and bury it and maybe even pack it out…  Let’s dive umm.. head first into this semi-taboo subject.

Most privies are gross. We all hate using them but when they are available please use them…  They place them in areas of high traffic to keep the area clean, if they are used it works!

Urinating in the woods is pretty self explanatory.  You just need to pick a spot at least 200 feet from any trail, camp, or body of water such as lakes and streams. Try to pee on a rock. Animals are attracted to the salt in you pee and they will lick the rock eliminating any trace of your pee.

Defecating has a little more art to it, where to lean, how to prop… First you should have a bathroom kit packed with wiping material (I like paper towels and wet wipes), hand sanitizer, all packed in a heavy-duty zip-lock bag with some extras thrown in.  Some like to bring along a trowel. They make small and light trowels just for this purpose. A stick or flat rock will do the trick, but require a little more effort.

The five steps to poop in the woods

1. Dig a hole  about 8 inches deep and 8 inches wide (“cat-hole”) 200-300 feet from any trail, camp, or water source. Pick somewhere with a view, it could be the nicest bathroom you ever use.

2. Squat over your hole, there are many squat methods so choose wisely (see below).3. Hope your aim is good, if not make sure to move your waste to into the hole.4. Wipe and bag in one of your extra baggies. Even though paper biodegrades it is still

uncool to bury. 5. Cover your waste with dirt and place a rock or downed log atop to keep curious animals

out and SANITIZE your hands for God’s sake!

Methods for Pooping in the Woods

The Full Squat. Surprisingly easy. Discovered by girls (and Asians) long ago; shunned by the white man. No stamina required in the legs because you’re already all the way down. Actually leaves plenty of clearance between droppings and dropped pants. May require (minimal) practice to maintain balance.

The Half Squat. A futile farce to keep far from feces. Makes the quads burn. Takes ripped quads to maintain. Maybe degrades gracefully into the Full Squat. Maybe.

The Overbite. Mental comfort of being in a familiar physical position. Must invest time searching for that perfect log or rock (preferably with a view). Risk of tumbling backward if improperly sized object used.

The Middleman. Similar to the Overbite. Eliminates risk of falling over backward, but must find two objects adequately spaced. A well balanced option, though butt-cheek contact with foriegn surfaces appears necessary.

Lean Cuisine. A nice compromise between the Overbite and Middleman. Uses the cheek-lean technique on a single object, eliminating both tumble risk and two-object requirement. May be slightly more difficult to maintain over long periods than the parent methods.

The Whomping Willow. Similar to the Half Squat, but offloads the legs with some additional support. Must find a a tree with appropriately low and flexible branches. Risk of falling into the pile if the branch lacks adequate strength. If you’ve found the right tree, there should already be a hole for you.

 

Bear SafetyAvoiding Bears

Bears feel threatened if surprised. Here are a few hints to help you avoid an encounter:

Hike in a group or make noise as you hike. Whistle, talk, sing, or carry a noise-maker. Most bears will leave if they are aware of your presence.

Stay in the open as much as possible.

Be especially alert when traveling into the wind - a bear may not get your scent and be forewarned of your presence. And, in dense bush and near rushing water, the animal may not hear your noise-maker.

Scoot on if you come across dead animals or berry patches, important food sources for bears. Bears mostly eat plant life, but will eat meat when available, and may be nearby.

Leave your dog at home. Fido might come across a bear and may come running back to you with the bear in pursuit!

Keep children close at hand on trails.

Avoid wearing cosmetics, perfumes, hair sprays, and soaps.

Set up cooking, eating, and supply areas at least 100 yards from your sleeping area. Clean utensils and cookware away from your tent as well, and then dump dishwater at least 100 yards from your sleeping area. Put garbage and leftovers in containers immediately after eating. The lingering odors of food invite bears, so you don’t want those odors near or in your tent at night. 

Change your clothes before going to bed -- do not sleep in the same clothes you cook in, or in the clothes that you carried snacks in during the day.

Treat personal items just like food as far as storing for the night - any odorous product, including inedible items like candles will attract bears.

Most bear encounters occur in established camp areas when the bears smell food and come looking for the source, especially if they've had success there in the past. If the food is well out of the way or inaccessible, there are rarely problems for the campers – the bear loses interest and moves on. But once a bear finds easy food at a camp, their behavior can quickly become dangerous as they start to expect food from any human camp. The adage is – a fed bear is usually a dead bear. Rangers may eventually have to kill a bear that loses its fear of humans or becomes aggressive in camps because of past success at finding food that way.

Don’t be fed to the bears!!

What do you do if you’re noisy, odor-free, observant, and careful, but still run into a bear on the trail or in camp? Read on . . . .

Despite your best efforts, you may still encounter a bear wandering during its daily travels. Upon spotting a human, the naturally curious bear will either run away, or stop to check you out.

If you see the bear before it sees you, stay calm and quietly back away. If the bear has seen you, talk in a soft to normal voice, so the now-curious bear can determine you are a human – that may be enough for it to want to leave. If a bear rears on its hind legs and waves its nose in the air, it is trying to identify you. A standing bear is curious, not threatening.

Avoid direct eye contact as bears may perceive this as a threat. Don't make any sudden movements, throw anything, or yell. If necessary, back away slowly to give the bear plenty of room to escape – including the right-of-way on the trail.

Watch the bear for aggressive behavior--snapping its jaws together, making a "whoofing" sound, or keeping its head down with ears laid back. Consider any bear that moves toward you aggressive. If the bear does not seem to be displaying aggressive behavior, talk softly in monotones and slowly back up. While you’re at it, slowly take off your pack – that may distract the bear for a bit and give you more flexible options if things go bad. But remember, wild bears rarely attack people unless they feel threatened or provoked.

If a bear charges toward you, make yourself tall and stand still. Bears often "bluff charge", and then veer off at the last minute. But again, do not run - including to the nearest tree unless you are sure you can climb at least 10 feet before the bear reaches you. Black bears are agile climbers anyway, but may not be inclined to come up after you. Now’s a darn good time to have bear pepper spray with you.

If a bear roams into your camp at night, and has no food easily accessible, it will probably wander back out in a bit. If not, you can try to scare them off by making a loud, deep noise, or bang a shoe against a pot. That'll probably scare it off. If the bear tries to get into your tent, yell loudly (duh!) and try to get the heck out ASAP.

Lastly, if attacked by a black bear, don’t play dead, but fight like your life depended on it – it might. Throw things, kick, yell – whatever you have to do. Black bears are rarely itching for a fight, and will likely just take off if you fight back – at least that’s the hope, isn’t it? Grizzlies are a bit different - some experts suggest that you should play dead if attacked by one of those fellers since they tend to fight until the threat is gone. I guess just hope he's not too hungry . . . .

Now that you know all this, relax. Bees, falling trees, too-talkative hikers and lightning are much worse threats than bears.

Bear Bagging Instructions 

Bear bagging systems are essential in safeguarding your food from bears or other animals. 50-70 ft of sturdy 1/8 to 1/4 inch braided nylon rope will work for your bear bags. I use about 60 feet of green 1/8 inch cord (darker rope is more difficult for bears to spot) for this particular bear bag system. There are other methods out there to protect your food from bears while backpacking but I happen to use this one a little more. Maybe when I have time I will use my primitive drawing skills and sketch some of the other bear bag examples.

Single Tree Branch Bear Bag Method

 

Two Tree Bear Bag Method

Bear Bag Diagram Instructions

A) 1 end of the cord secured to the tree.

B) The other end will be the end to lower or raise your bear bag. If short on cord you can secure this end onto the other tree. If you let go of the rope the bag may come tumbling downward. When bringing the bag down make sure your cord does not get so elevated that you wont be able to reach it.

C) I tie a loop in the cord to so it's simpler to attach my bear bag.

D) Use carabiner to attach your bear bag to the loop on the cord.

E) Pack any items with an odor into the bear bag.

F) Hang the bear bag a minimum 12 ft up.

G) Hang the bag a minimum of 10 ft from vertical supports.

More on Personal Hygiene while Backpacking

No challenge worries novice campers and backpackers more than how to stay clean. On the trail, however, “clean” is a relative term. Instead of wearing fresh underwear every day, you’ll learn to rotate it. A moss-covered ledge makes a great nap spot, and the “three-second rule” applies to any food you drop on the ground. Since learning to be comfortable with a more relaxed state of hygiene takes time and experience, here are some questions and answers to get you started.

>>What do you mean, ‘No deodorant?’

Despite the persuasive arguments of the Old Spice Guy, deodorant isn’t one of hiking’s 10 essentials. In fact, you should always leave it at home. Why? Because deodorant does more than banish odors; its sweet smell attracts bugs and other wildlife, including bears. After a few days without deodorant, you’ll get accustomed to your new, “natural” odor. And this fragrance won’t bother you or your hiking companions as long as you regularly wash your armpits and groin area with soap and water or hand sanitizer as described below.

>>When should I wash my hands?

Doctors wash their hands whenever they see a new patient. Hikers should do the same after going to the bathroom and before cooking or eating meals. If you don’t, the germs on your fingers will end up in your eyes or mouth. Hikers are quick to blame trail illnesses on contaminated drinking water, but hand-to-mouth infection is a frequent culprit, too. Because washing with soap and water isn’t always convenient or available, carry a bottle of alcohol-based hand sanitizer. This clear gel contains a small concentration of ethyl alcohol that kills germs on contact. Just add a dime-size drop to your palm, rub your hands together vigorously, and wait 20 to 30 seconds for the alcohol to evaporate.

 

>>Why should I use biodegradable soap?

When you wash your hands at home, the suds vanish down the drain. But in the woods, the phosphates in soap can promote algae blooms in lakes and streams. To protect water sources, hikers should never use regular hand or dish soap in or near water. Instead, choose biodegradable soaps that revert back to their organic ingredients like products from Dr. Bronner’s and Campsuds. Even when using biodegradable soap, Leave No Trace guidelines suggest you remain 200 feet from any water.

>>When should I change my clothes?

Maintaining good trail hygiene not only requires packing enough clothing, but also knowing when to change and clean it. Most hikers replace their sweaty shirt, pants, or shorts with cleaner, warmer clothes when they arrive at each night’s campsite. You can also change into new socks and underwear at this time, although some people wait until they are heading to bed. If you don’t remove your hiking clothes when you reach camp, you should change into clean and dry clothing before going to sleep. Wearing dirty clothing to bed not only sullies the inside of your sleeping bag, but it also creates a wonderful opportunity for rashes and other skin problems to develop during the night.

On trips lasting two days and longer, try rotating your outfits. After you remove soiled clothing, dry it on a line so it’s ready for the next transition (you can also tie it to the top of your pack if you’re still hiking). For a typical warm-weather weekend trip (three days, two nights), I normally bring two pairs of underwear, one pair of hiking pants, two wicking t-shirts, one mid-weight insulating layer, one heavy-weight insulating layer, rain shell, and two pairs of socks. With this setup, I always have a cleaner/drier T-shirt, pair of socks, and underwear to slip on.

>>What should be inside my toiletry kit?

Car campers can pack all the toiletries they would bring on a normal vacation, but backpackers should carry only the basics. In addition to leaving the deodorant at home, you should ditch shampoo (environmentally unfriendly), razors (not practical), mirrors (too fragile), and of course, the hair dryer (unless you brought a five-mile extension cord). Here’s what you should pack: 

Toothbrush Toothpaste Dental floss Alcohol gel-based hand sanitizer Cotton bandanna or wash cloth Moist towelettes or baby wipes Biodegradable soap Absorbent pack towel Toilet paper in its own plastic bag

Packing your Backpack

Be sure to use the red internal compression strap; if you have one.  Also, compress the contents solidly using the external compression straps.  You want the pack to adopt a tall, thin profile.  Remember to maintain side-to-side balance as well – a pack that leans over to one side places excessive pressure on your spine and irritates your shoulders.  Make a point of getting as much gear inside the pack as possible.  Odds and ends strapped on all over the outside of the pack wreak havoc with balance, especially if they are free to swing around.  Finally, the top pocket has a tendency to become the repository for many, many small items that add up to significant weight and often make the pack distinctly top-heavy – be careful!

 

The Steps to a Great Pack FitFirst, loosen all of the pack's straps and hipbelt. Start by putting about 10 to 15 lbs. of weight into the pack to simulate a loaded pack. If making these pack adjustments at home, follow the steps below in front of a mirror. Get a friend to help if possible, or visit an outdoor store for more assistance.

Step 1: Hipbelt Put the pack on your back so that the hipbelt is resting over your hip bones. Close the hipbelt buckle and tighten it. Check the padded sections of the hipbelt to make sure they wrap around your hips

comfortably. Keep at least 1" of clearance on either side of the center buckle. If the hipbelt is too loose or tight, try repositioning the hipbelt buckle. If this doesn't solve

the problem, you may need a different pack (or hipbelt).

Step 2: Shoulder Straps Pull down and back on the ends of the shoulder straps to tighten them. Shoulder straps should fit closely to hold the pack body against your back and thus

keeping the load forward. They should NOT be carrying the weight. Have your helper check to see that the shoulder strap anchor points are 1" to 2" inches

below the top of your shoulders.

Step 3: Load Lifters Load-lifter straps are located just below the tops of your shoulders (near your

collarbones) and should angle back toward the pack body at a 45° angle. Gently snug the load-lifter straps to pull weight off your shoulders. (Overtightening the

load lifters will cause a gap to form between your shoulders and the shoulder straps.)

Step 4: Sternum Strap Adjust the sternum strap as needed to a comfortable height across your chest. Buckle the sternum strap and tighten until the shoulder straps are pulled inwards

comfortably from your shoulders, allowing your arms to move freely. Pull the stabilizer straps located on either side of the hipbelt to snug the pack body toward

the hipbelt and stabilize the load.

Final Tweaks Pull the stabilizer straps, if equipped, located on either side of the hipbelt to snug the pack

body toward the hipbelt and stabilize the load. Go back to the shoulder straps and carefully take a bit of tension off of them. This

ensures the majority of the weight is carried by your hips.

Now you're ready to go!

The Principles of Leave No Trace

Plan Ahead and Prepare Know the regulations and special concerns for the area you'll visit. Prepare for extreme weather, hazards, and emergencies. Schedule your trip to avoid times of high use. Visit in small groups when possible. Consider splitting larger groups into smaller groups. Repackage food to minimize waste. Use a map and compass to eliminate the use of marking paint, rock cairns or flagging.

 

Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces Durable surfaces include established trails and campsites, rock, gravel, dry grasses or

snow. Protect riparian areas by camping at least 200 feet from lakes and streams. Good campsites are found, not made. Altering a site is not necessary.

o In popular areas: Concentrate use on existing trails and campsites. Walk single file in the middle of the trail, even when wet or muddy. Keep campsites small. Focus activity in areas where vegetation is absent. In pristine areas: Disperse use to prevent the creation of campsites and trails. Avoid places where impacts are just beginning.

 

Dispose of Waste Properly Pack it in, pack it out. Inspect your campsite and rest areas for trash or spilled foods. Pack

out all trash, leftover food and litter. Deposit solid human waste in catholes dug 6 to 8 inches deep, at least 200 feet from

water, camp and trails. Cover and disguise the cathole when finished. Pack out toilet paper and hygiene products. To wash yourself or your dishes, carry water 200 feet away from streams or lakes and use

small amounts of biodegradable soap. Scatter strained dishwater.

 

Leave What You Find Preserve the past: examine, but do not touch cultural or historic structures and artifacts. Leave rocks, plants and other natural objects as you find them. Avoid introducing or transporting non-native species. Do not build structures, furniture, or dig trenches.

 

Minimize Campfire Impacts Campfires can cause lasting impacts to the backcountry. Use a lightweight stove for

cooking and enjoy a candle lantern for light. Where fires are permitted, use established fire rings, fire pans, or mound fires. Keep fires small. Only use sticks from the ground that can be broken by hand. Burn all wood and coals to ash, put out campfires completely, then scatter cool ashes.

 

Respect Wildlife Observe wildlife from a distance. Do not follow or approach them. Never feed animals. Feeding wildlife damages their health, alters natural behaviors, and

exposes them to predators and other dangers. Protect wildlife and your food by storing rations and trash securely. Control pets at all times, or leave them at home. Avoid wildlife during sensitive times: mating, nesting, raising young, or winter.

 

Be Considerate of Other Visitors Respect other visitors and protect the quality of their experience. Be courteous. Yield to other users on the trail. Step to the downhill side of the trail when encountering pack stock. Take breaks and camp away from trails and other visitors. Let nature's sounds prevail. Avoid loud voices and noises.

 

Bigfoot’s been doing it for years.Leave No Trace

52 Backpacking Don’tsAT HOME

1. BURYING YOUR RESERVOIRFew flubs are more irritating than a leaky water bladder that soaks your pack on the drive to the trailhead. It happens when the pressure of other gear against the bite valve pops it open. So place the reservoir atop everything else en route to ensure it doesn’t get squashed. If your plastic bladder has a leaky seam or small puncture, you can repair it with Seam Grip—the waterproof sealant designed for tents. Empty the bladder first, and allow 24 hours for it to dry.

2. NOT BAGGING DEET-BASED BUG SPRAYDeet melts nylon and polyester and can damage harder plastics like buckles and water bladders, so toss repellents in a zip-top bag.

3. OVERCONFIDENCEAccording to a 2008 study of SAR missions in Utah national parks, fatigue, darkness, and insufficient equipment accounted for about 42 percent of rescue calls. Such mishaps, at their root, stem from foolhardy planning. So set sane goals and honestly estimate your hiking speed. Dan Westerberg, who leads trips for the Boston Appalachian Mountain Club, typically assumes an average speed of 1 to 2 mph, then adds 30 minutes for every 1,000 feet of elevation gain.

4. NOT SETTING A TURNBACK TIMEThis is a recipe for unplanned bivies. If you don’t reach the goal by the turnaround time, go back anyway. Note: The descent often takes half as long as theascent but that depends on terrain.

5. CAN’T FIND THE TRAILHEADThe more accessible the trailhead, the more crowded the trail. So finding solitude often means navigating remote, mazelike dirt roads. “For turn-by-turn directions to a trailhead, visit or call the local park or forest recreation managers,” says Diane Taliaferro, recreation manager at Santa Fe NF. They’ll also provide info about 4WD tracks, washed-out roads, and theft-prone lots. Or get directions at backpacker.com/postatrip by bombsiting (manually placing) the trailhead on a map: Sign in (or create a free account) to the site, then use the map editor tool to scan for your trailhead using a topo, terrain, or aerial map. Drop a waypoint (bombsite) (1) onto the map editor, then plug its UTM or lat/long coordinates (2) into a GPS (or Google Maps or MapQuest). Tutorial: backpacker.com/hikes/usinggps

6. BRINGING A LEATHERMAN IN YOUR CARRY-ONFind rules for knives (plus stoves and fuel) at tsa.gov.

7. POOR PACKING>> Get gear checklists for all types of trips (snow, desert, swamp, and more) at backpacker.com/checklists.>> Don’t bury stuff you’ll regularly need deep in your pack.

ON THE TRAIL

8. COMMITTING CRIMES OF FASHIONEver notice how many stories about rescued hikers include the line, “The missing man was wearing jeans and

tennis shoes”? Insufficient clothing contributed to 10 percent of rescue missions in national parks in 2007. Avoid:

>> Wearing cotton Once damp, it stays damp, sucking away body heat. Opt for adjustable layers of wicking fabrics like wool and polyester. Layering order goes: longsleeve (or tee), pullover, down jacket and/or rainshell,

and hat and mitts for quick microadjustments.

>> Starting with too many layers Ten minutesinto the hike, you’ll be overheating

and need to shed clothing. Start fromthe trailhead a little chilled.

>> Letting yourself sweat The moisture on your skin siphons away warmth.

>> Not adding layers right when you stop You’ll soon be shivering.

9. LETTING YOUR WATER FREEZEReservoir hoses require more work than bottles in frigid temps, so think twice about bladders. To avoid bottle

freeze-up, stow them upside down in your pack.

10. NEGLECTING TO CHECK THE FORECASTRecent tragedies on Mt. Hood, Mt. Washington, and Denali spotlight the potential lethality of severe storms. Be prepared by getting a pinpoint forecast for your route at weather.gov (since frontcountry forecasts often don’t

apply to the backcountry or high elevations). Note: Temperatures drop about 3°F for every 1,000 feet of vertical gain.

11. IGNORING STORM SIGNSWatch for clues like winds from the south, developing cloud cover, and a freefall in barometric pressure

(measured by an altimeter watch; some even have storm-warning features). If weather deteriorates, descend to safe, sheltered areas (lightning is attracted to isolated, pointy objects like lone trees, ridges, and summits).

12. GETTING SEPARATEDLetting the speed-demons blaze ahead while the slower hikers fall behind begs for disaster. If a sudden storm, darkness, a wrong turn, or injury befall you, communicating with other team members will be difficult or impossible. That’s why the “Start as a group, hike as a group, finish as a group” mantra is smart. Try these strategies:

>> Cajole the speedsters to slow down, and put a person in front who sets a moderate pace.

>> Designate a reliable sweeper to bring up the rear.

>> Redistribute weight from slower hikers to fast ones.

>> Agree to stop at every trail junction. Becausespreading out is inevitable on any hike, this willreduce the chance of someone taking a wrong turn.

13. GLISSADING WITH CRAMPONS ONIf a point catches on the snow, you will likely break an ankle—or cut yourself badly

14. DORK MOVES>> One minibiner or keychain thermo-compass is allowed. No more.

>> Stuff dangling hillbilly-style from your pack ruins your balance and screams noob.

15 NOT USING SUNSCREENThose skin-frying rays pass through clouds, so sunny or gray, reapply every two hours.

16. CLIMBING OUT OF YOUR COMFORT ZONE

What goes up doesn’t necessarily come down—especially on steep terrain. An Oregon dayhiker learned this last February when he ventured off-trail and got stranded on a ledge 350 feet above the Columbia River Gorge. Unable to move, he called 911 (his only smart move) and waited all night until rescuers reached him. He’s not an anomaly:Cliffed-out hikers accounted for 11 percent of SAR missions in Yosemite in the 1990s. Prevent such ordeals by scanning the terrain ahead—and behind—to ensure you can return via the same route. Never take shortcuts you don’t know or can’t see the length of (like a gully on a peak). Most people find downclimbing harder than ascending because footholds are less visible. Four more tips:

>> As you move up, memorize the hand- and footholds you use.>> Face toward the rock, not out, and test all holds to make sure they’re solid.>> Move your feet, then your hands so you stay in balance and not scrunched up.>> To get a better view of holds, lean out, arms straight and locked out (see below).

17. GAITERS ON WRONGStick buckles outside the ankle so they don’t trip you.

18. BEELINING UPExcept on tiring-to-kick, hard snow, switchbacking is more efficient. 

19. PACK COVERSThey leak. Put gear in waterproof stuff sacks.

NAVIGATION

20.NOT DOUBLE-CHECKING YOUR POSITIONGetting disoriented is easy. Just ask Civil War General Lew Wallace. At the Battle of Shiloh, he marched 25,000 Union troops the wrong way and ended up behind enemy lines. Hikers are no better: Lost or missing persons accounted for 42 percent of rescue missions over a recent three-year period in the White Mountains—even more than injuries. So use a map to verify your direction of travel after each turn. Do the topo lines indicate you should be climbing or descending? Should that peak be ahead of you or behind? What landmarks should you mentally (or digitally) photograph? Also check the sun’s position—it’s in the east in the morning, and the west by afternoon. Two route finding Bermuda Triangles in particular are barren summits and open fields, where the intersection of multiple trails breeds confusion. When you approach a summit or field, record your route’s compass bearing, or mark the path with a rock or stick so you can find your way back to it.

21. GETTING CAUGHT IN THE DARK (Above)Nightfall means cold temps and difficult route finding. To estimate how much daylight is left: Hold your palm at arm’s length and count how many fingers fit between the horizon and the sun. Each finger represents about 15 minutes. Example above shows one hour, 15 minutes until dark. If darkness descends, no worries—that’s what a headlamp is for. Just make sure you pack it (see #7, p. 40).

22 CUTTING SWITCHBACKSIt causes erosion and can lead you (and others) off route. Tip: Sticks crossed like an X mean there’s no trail that way.

23. TAKING A SHORTCUTAlarm bells should sound when you hear any of these phrases: “Is this gun loaded?” “Jump it, you wuss!” and “Let’s take a shortcut.” Michael Hays should know. Last June, the Ohio hiker shattered his kneecap on an off-trail descent of Maine’s Katahdin. If not for vigilant rangers who noticed he was overdue, and a lucky helicopter flyover that spotted his orange poncho, Hays might have stayed there permanently. The problem: If you become lost or immobilized away from a known trail, rescuers won’t be looking in the right place. Is there ever a good time to take a shortcut? Maybe, if: You can see your destination and all the terrain in-between; have the skills to navigate to it or backtrack; and won’t be violating LNT ethics.

24. FORGING BLINDLY AHEADFew lost hikers try to retrace their path, deluding themselves that help is just around the corner. But backtracking to your last known point is the best way to get back on course.

25. USER ERRORGPS is a fabulous tool—if you use it correctly. Two Mt. Hood hikers realized this in 2006 when they got lost in a whiteout using a GPS configured to conflicting datum settings and a compass declination set for New Hampshire, not Oregon. That’s why it’s vital to practice with compasses and read the GPS manual on how to import tracks, bombsite waypoints, and set preferences.

26. NOT USING A MAP ON FAMILIAR ROUTESEven on trails you’ve hiked dozens of times, you can make a wrong turn. In fact, the more well-known a route, the more our brains tend to shut down. German researchers tested this using a driving simulation. As the subjects drove the same course multiple times, the parts of the brain involved with situational awareness became less active as the drivers memorized the route. The more you think you know a place, the less you actually think. So always bring a map or a color-copy of key sections. Print topos at backpacker.com, or buy local quads at outdoor stores or Map Express (mapexp.com). Go tobackpacker.com/navigation101 for a tutorial on the basics.

27. SETTLING FOR BAD RECEPTIONCloudy, rainy skies won’t block a GPS signal, but overhead foliage, canyon walls, and water on the antenna will. Find a clearing or highpoint, make sure the antenna is dry, then check what accuracy (in feet) you’ve obtained.

MAKING CAMP

28. PITCHING YOUR TENT IN A PUDDLEWaking up in a soggy sleeping bag is a definite buzzkill. To stay dry:

1. Pitch your shelter on dry, flat, well-draining surfaces, like pine needles, rock slabs, or bare dirt. The leakiest part of a tent isn’t the ceiling or walls, but the floor. When rain collects under the tent, the pressure of your gear and body lets it seep through the fabric. So avoid shallow depressions, spongy turf, and runoff zones, which pool water. If you’re using a footprint (a plastic tarp beneath the tent), tuck the outer edges under the rainfly to keep water from inundating it.

2. Waterproof the seams. If the tent or rainfly seams have lost their repellency, coat them (inside and outside) with a sealer like McNett Seam Grip, then reapply once a year.

3. Orient your tent so the smallest cross-section—usually the rear—faces into the wind. That tactic, along with staking out guy-lines, stops rain gusts from blowing droplets underneath the rainfly.

4. Pack the tent in this order: rainfly, canopy, footprint. So if you’re pitching it in rain and wind, the footprint comes out first, then you stake the canopy, and lastly you set up the canopy with the fly draped over it.

29. PACKING ONLY ONE BICIf it fails, no stove or fire. And don’t forget good tinder, like dryer lint. 

30. NOT GAZING UPWidowmakers kill. Pitch your tent away from dead trees and limbs.

31. RANDOMLY ARRANGING YOUR CAMPSITEFor max comfort and convenience, follow these organizational tips:

>> To warm up fast on chilly mornings, pick a site with southern exposure, and avoid low spots since cold air flows downhill.>> Evade mosquitoes by picking open areas with breezes, sun, and no standing water.

>> At campgrounds, grab a spot near the latrine and water spigot, but not so close (or on the main

thoroughfare) that constant traffic—and odors—will bother you.

>> Locate campfires and kitchen areas downwind from the tent to keep smoke and smells away from your sleeping spot. Hang bear bags 100 yards downwind from both.

>> Site backcountry camps 200 feet (40 adult paces) from any trails, rivers, or lakes. This is also the distance catholes should be from campsite, trail, water, or drainage.

32. BAD GEAR DRYING>> Don’t hang damp clothes inside your tent. They won’t dry. Place them inside your sleeping bag.>> Putting boots near the fire will crack the leather and melt the soles. Air-dry them upside-down. >> Don’t store a wet tent unless you want mildew. Hang to air-dry.

33. NOT STAKING YOUR TENTSudden strong winds can carry it afar; one editor lost his shelter over a cliff in Glen Canyon. On snow or sand, bury deadmen (guylined logs or rocks) instead of staking.

34. NOT BUYING A WARM ENOUGH SLEEPING BAGIf you sleep cold, you might need a bag rated 10°F below the nighttime low. An

insulated mat also helps. Note: Bags lose loft with use, so launder yours every 40 nights or so.

35. LAZY FOOD STORAGEA bear’s sense of smell is seven times better than a bloodhound’s—and the odor of jerky carries for miles. Ergo, hang a bear bag. Even if bruins aren’t present, proper technique will protect food from marauding varmints.

1. Before sunset, locate a suitable tree with a sturdy branch 15 to 20 feet off the ground. It should be at least 100 yards downwind from your campsite. Typically, deciduous trees offer longer, stronger branches than conifers.

2. Put a fist-size rock in a sock or glove. Attach it to a 50-foot nylon rope. Toss the cord over the branch. It should rest at least five feet from the tree trunk. 3. Tie or clip the bear bag to the rope and hoist away. Make sure the bottom of the bag is at least 10 feet off the ground. For more security, add a mouse hanger (p. 34); you can also throw the rope over a second branch on a nearby tree and tie the bag to the middle of the rope. 

4. Wrap the rope end around the trunk several times. Tie it off with several overhand knots or hitches.

HEALTH AND FIRST AID

36. IGNORING HOT SPOTSWhen heel pain flares up five minutes into the hike, do you keep moving? Many hikers are too rushed to stop, and most regret it later. The earlier you treat a hot spot—a skin irritation caused by excessive friction—the better your chances for a blister-free day. Stop and do the following:

1. Clean the skin around the hot spot with a damp, clean cloth.

2. Apply a self-adhesive, cushioned bandage like moleskin or 2nd Skin over the affected area and the surrounding skin. 

3. Secure it with strips of tape or adhesive bandages. Real blister prevention starts at home: Wear new boots around the house and on short hikes. If hot spots develop during break-in, apply bandages and continue the process of toughening up skin and molding the boot. Also, experiment with different socks, insoles, and less-rigid trail shoes.

37 STRESSING KNEES BY...>> Not using poles. Kinesiology studies show they cut posthike soreness. 

>> Setting poles too long. Your elbows should bend 90 degrees. (Lengthen for descents so you can lean on them.)

38. HIKING IN WET SOCKSSoggy skin blisters faster; change into dry socks asap.

39. BUYING TOO SMALL BOOTSFeet swell a ½ size by afternoon. Size shoes accordingly.

40. TOUCHING POISON IVYLearn how to identify it at backpacker.com/poisonivy.

41. STEPPING CARELESSLYAbout 77 percent of the 306 injuries recorded in Yellowstone in 2003-04 were leg sprains, strains, abrasions, and lacerations. Takeaway: Watch your step. To prevent a stumble, wear high boots, use poles, and cinch balanceskewing gear dangling from your pack (see #14, p.41). And scan the trail for rain-slick tree roots, wet leaves, and ice patches. Improve balance by doing proprioception (sensing your body’s movement and orientation) exercises, like standing on one leg for five minutes (bonus points for eyes closed).

42. TREATING A CELL PHONE AS A LIFELINEThough mobiles can save your bacon, they can also encourage risk-taking. So drop it in a zip-top bag and forget you have it until an emergency. For best reception, head to high ground and hold the phone away from your body, which can block the signal. If you get a signal, return to the same spot for calls; your phone will remember the tower locations. Save battery life by texting, and keeping it turned off and warm; for smartphones, also dim the screen and disable syncs and apps.

43. LUGGING A GIANT FIRST-AID KITFor weekend hikes, a wallet-size kit—that you know how to use—suffices, while a toiletry bag-size pouch works for longer trips or larger groups. To downsize, replace supplies you can improvise (like triangular bandages) with essentials like more adhesive bandages, duct tape, ibuprofen, moleskin, sterile gauze pads, antibiotic ointment, antihistamines, antidiarrheal medication, tweezers, safety pins, hand sanitizer, and sugar.

44. BURNING TICKS Don’t touch a match to the tick’s butt, like the old wives’ tale suggests. That burns the body while leaving the head embedded (and putting you at risk for a burn). Rather, use tweezers flush against the skin, and grasp the bugger perpendicular to the long-axis of its body, then gently pull straight out.

FOOD AND WATER 

45. EATING BLAH MEALSPlain noodles do not a dinner make. Break out of your rut by adding tasty items like dried fruits and veggies; precooked packets of chicken or fish; cheese (hard ones last a week); nuts; tomato paste tubes; and packets of spices (Italian, Mexican, Asian). Here are three ideas (more atbackpacker.com/recipecenter):

>> Asian-flavor ramen, plus peanutsand two tablespoons peanut butter

>> Wild rice, chicken, craisins

>> Instant potatoes, cheddar, tuna

46. WASTING FUELUp efficiency with liquid-fuel stoves by using an aluminum windscreen. Don’t put screens around canisters (they can explode), but cook in a sheltered spot

47. PACKING TOO MUCH FOODAim for 2.5 lbs./person/day and 4,000 calories.

48. RUNNING THE TANK DRYCarry at least three liters of water on any hike over five miles, or during hot or humid conditions. Also, don’t assume you’ll find water along the trail. Check with maps, guidebooks, and rangers to locate reliable sources.

49. FOILED WATER FILTERS>> Not backflushing When your filter slows down orgets harder to use, reverse the flow valves and pump severaltimes to clear out grime. (Follow your pump’s instructions.)

>> Pumping silty water This will clog your purifier. Use a prefilter,or wrap a coffee filter around the pump’s nozzle, orlet dirt settle in a pot before pumping.

>> Collecting H20 at trail crossings Move several yards upstreamto reduce contamination from passing hikers.

50.  USING A KNIFE AS A LEVER Snap! goes the tip.

51 NOT BRINGING ENOUGH FUEL

Figure about 2.5 oz. per person per day in summer, and 7.5 oz. in winter

52. HYDRATION BLUNDERS>> Letting water freeze On subzero nights stow bottles in sleeping bag.

>> Not replacing electrolytes Low levels of sodium (lost in sweat) can cause sometimes-fatal hyponatremia. Consume salty foods or sport drinks.

>> Getting dehydrated An active person loses two liters per hour in very hot weather, and about half a liter in temperate conditions. Drink enough that your pee is nearly clear.

SKILLS: MIND OVER MOUNTAIN

1Illustration by Supercorn

Overcome mental fatigue and you’ll turn a painful uphill slog into positive trail time, says Dennis Proffitt, M.D., a University of Virginia researcher studying human perceptions of slanted terrain. Why? The brain’s messages about hills ahead are based, in part, on your energy level. If you’re feeling rested and strong, you may barely register a moderate rise, if you’re fatigued and weak, mild slopes take on mountainous proportions. Low energy reserves trigger the brain’s self-preservation mechanism to call a halt when the going gets tough. In a survival situation, quitting before you burn your body’s backup energy supply could save your life, but when you’re trying to push your limits, this mental safeguard is just a buzzkill. Use these tips to trick yourself into summiting big slopes—no matter what your mind might be telling you. 

Stay fueled “Our brains scale the world to fit our body’s capabilities and protect us from expending more energy than we have,” says Proffitt. In a 2010 study, participants drank eight ounces of either a sugary drink (packed with glucose) or a diet drink (glucose-free) and were then asked to estimate a hill’s grade. The glucose-depleted group consistently overestimated the angle while the sugar-high group was more optimistic. The lesson? Ample energy reserves help curb the mental fatigue that makes a tough climb seem even tougher. Keep blood-glucose high by snacking often and remember that heavy packs and rugged terrain sap energy reserves quickly, so plan to eat more calories, rest often, and lighten your load to give yourself a psychological edge. 

Don’t let physics psych you out When viewed from a distance, a hill’s top and bottom seem equally distant, and foreshortening makes uphills appear steeper and downhills appear shallower than they really are. Avoid long-distance judgment calls because looking toward the hill’s apex exaggerates its angle; Train your eye on the terrain immediately ahead, says Proffitt. 

Keep a positive attitude Mood factors in estimating physical capabilities, and Proffitt’s research suggests that people regularly perceive slopes at double to quadruple their steepness—which can make climbing them seem impossible. Low self-esteem and fear add to higher hill-grade estimates, so reminisce about positive experiences, focus on personal strengths to build self-confidence, sing songs, play trail games, and stay calm to keep morale high. 

Bring good company Compared to solo hikers, research shows that groups of two or more perceive hills’ angles as more climbable. “Having [hiking partners] ‘takes a weight off your shoulders’ and makes terrain seem less threatening,” says Simone Schnall, a University of Cambridge psychologist. Schnall’s research suggests that even thinking of a supportive friend is enough to reduce perceptions of steepness. Going it alone? Bring a picture or token to remind you of a loved one.