Craig Goch ref 749 447This long and impressive escarpment sits on the moors above Festiniog on the Penmachno road above three small lakes and although one and half Kms long has rarely been visited by climbers over the years . In the 1980s Mel Griffiths and Martin Crook did a brief inspection and soloed some of the easier lines in the many bays .There is no doubt that in the decades before others must have visited but no records are extant . Much of the first ascent details are therefore from 2012 onwards .Despite the extent of the escarpment much of the buttresses are broken and covered in heather .The farther north along the crags you walk the more it becomes apparent that there are many good bays hiding steep walls , cracks and slabs .Approach .Follow the Llanfestiniog Penmachno road past Carreg y Foel Gron and within a Km a small track heads off left . It is commonly used by fishermen to approach the lakes and cars can be parked in the bay where it ends . The escarpment is clearly visible . It is possible to walk to the first lake then continue along the base of the crag but as there is a good path running along the top of the crags this is a quicker approach .The far north walls take about 25 minutes along the upper track .Descriptions for routes start at the northern end .

Far north gulley.There is a collection of short , broken walls on the south side of the gulley which forms the end of this escarpment . Worth a visit on a day of gales as quite sheltered .Routes from left to right

1.Demondim Spawn 12m HVS 5a 14.6.2012This takes the centre of the lowest wall direct past the big spike to finish up the slim corner .TT PJ

2.Hobor 10m V.Diff 14.6.2012Start 2 meters to the right and go direct up the quartz streaked wall PJ TT3.The Harrow 8 m HVS 5b 14.6.2012From the foot of the wide crack layaway up and leftwards onto the steep wall above . Step left and finish direct TT PJ4.Quartz crack 8m VS 4bA strenuous start from the recess is followed by good jammingPJ TT

Main wall One of the best walls here sitting on the terrace above a shorter broken wall on the far left side of the main escarpment . Good compact rock with open climbing .

5.The Big Steep 16m E2 5b 22.7.2012Just right of the left edge of the wall is a direct line to the top with difficulties at the initial overlap TT NC

6.Seduced and Abandoned 16m E2 5b 29.5.2012Start 2 meters right of the left hand edge below a short overlap . Go directly up and after pulling through the overlap continue directly and steeply in a fine position NC TT PJ7.Does my Tongue look Big in this ? 16m E3 5c 22.7.2012

Just to the right a flake system starts halfway up the wall . To gain this start down and right and make a tricky rising traverse up leftwards to join it .Initially demanding the line eases higher up .TT NC8.Retro winner 16m HVS 5a 26.5.2012The central groove is taken directly past the left edge of the cleaned ledge to top out on the bilberry ledge by the big flake boulder TT .NC9.Game of Thrones 16 m VS 4b 29.5.2012The next groove to the right is climbed directly passing the right end of the cleaned ledge with some intricate moves to finishPJ NC TT10.In the Swing 18m VS4b 29.5.2012Start as for Game …but at 4 meters traverse right until below the right side of the wall . At this point look up and climb vertically to the top TT NC PJ

Bay one

11.Little Death 18m HVS 4c 22.7.2012A worrying route up somewhat unstable rock .Start down and left of the groove and go direct up the cobbled wall . Pull onto the slab and finish up the good , clean corner above NC TT12.Resurrect me 15m E15b 26.5.2012This is the steep , open groove in the south west facing walls of the bay. Climb steeply to the overlap ( of wedged blocks ) then pull up and left . Finish direct .NC TT

Bay two From Bay one walk along the foot of the crag past the prominent pillar then stroll up into the second bay

13.Beware of the Crannog Men 18m E1 5b 29.5.2012The fine open corner starts easily then presents some bridging problems at half way before easing again above PJ NC TT 14.Knight of the Flowers 18m HVS 5a 29.5.2012Go easily up the ramp for two meters past a chockstone the go directly up the wall above PJ TT15.Hip Trip 18m E15b 29.5.2012This takes the good , thin crack in the wall just right of the overhanging corner . The crack then leads you into the corner to finish up that TT, NC, PJ16.Feisty Fringe 18m E1 5b 29.5.2012Just right is a rib . Start below this and go direct trying not to bridge out right into the right hand corner !TT, PJ, NC

Quartz wall .A perfect slabby wall of rock with prominent quartz streaks which has some short easier climbs

17.On the Curve 10m V.Diff 26.5.2011The steep short wall left of the groove TT NC18.Sweet and Sassy 10m VS 4b 26.5.2011The groove TT NC19.Mel’s Crack 10m HS 4b 26.5.2011ClassicNC TT 20.Sleeping with the Past 10m E2 5b 26.5.2011This takes the tricky roof next right . Climb direct to the roof then stretch around its left side to continue directNC TT21.Tale of the Taper 10m HS 4b 26.5.2011The crack next right just left of the gulley TT NC

22.Seams right 25 meters E2 5b 14.6.2012This lovely wall sits just below the summit cairn . The wall has a deep overlap and sits above a big vegetated slab . While it would be possible to scramble up the slab to the start of the wall an abseil in is easier and quicker .

Abseil down to the junction of the slab and wall and belay just left of the foot of the wall .From here traverse diagonally up right above the overlap to join the vertical seam . This continues to the top widening a little higher up with a short crux at halfway .TT PJ

Just south of the summit cairn is shallow gulley. About 20 meters south of this it is possible to scramble 3 meters down from the top and fix a good abseil .23.Echolalia 18 m E2 5b 9.8.2012From the base of the wall below go direct on good pockets and edges to finish up the crux in the open-book corner .TT NC

Southern bayThe first bay you reach as you approach along the bottom of the crags from the carpark

24.Echo Lake 20m HVS 4c 22.7.2012The sharp arête with the wide quartz streak is the target.Go directly up the pillar below the arête but then escape the challenge and pull around leftwards to some jumbled blocks . A short crack brings the top within reach TT NC25.Happy Days 20m Hard Very Difficult 22.7.2012Left is a slim slab leading to a steeper wall above . Finish up the crack in the wall NC TT 26.Shatter Chatter 20m V.Diff 22.7.2012The slab wall has a central groove . Follow this past some stacked blocks to the top

TT NC

27.Adrenaline Midge 25m E2 5b 9.8.2012The first decent buttress above the approach below the crags from the carpark with twin vertical cracks in the headwall . Start in the narrow bay below the headwall and make committing moves directly up the cleaned lower wall to a good ledge . The twin cracks are followed to another ledge and an easy finish.TT NC